Ethiopian!

This cuisine has been a Washington specialty since the fall of Haile Sellasi.

The Red Sea (which has recently adopted the epithet "Trunesh of Ethiopia" for some reason) is the oldest Ethiopian restaurant in town and, I always felt, the best, although the short-lived Axum, which flourished down the street for several years in the '80s was also good.  The Red Sea does not, however, make much effort to look atmospheric; the tables are small and formica, although clothed.  It is, of course, on 18th, about half a block below Columbia Road.

I note that its injera has been, well, "uneven" during the last three years; they seem to be working with a partly whole-wheat recipe which sometimes works excellently but sometimes is too flakey.  It's been some time now since this problem first arose; I occasionally (by no means frequently) still get a bad batch.

Beef and vegetarian entrees seem to be best--I continually revert to plain old tibs-- although the mixed "Red Sea Sampler" is excellent.  The draft beer is mediocre and never quite ice cold (as it should be).  Stick with bottled beer or the so-so house red wine (which is not outstanding, but it's cheap and complements the food well).

I view the Red Sea as a fine, nicely downscale standby--as little as $35 can feed and intoxicate a party of two.  If you need the stuff bad on an ongoing basis, it will do.

Neil