Hi, I recently vacationed in southern Vermont, and, aided by the AAA guide (something which I had previously sneered at when I saw tourists referring to it), I had three quite fine meals. All of these places are worth at least a thirty minute drive if you're ever vacationing in the vicinity. My friend and I stayed in Bennington at the Four Chimneys Inn. Since this is a food-related posting, I will note only that the Inn was very enjoyable, though the inn-keepers had a dry sense of humor that might not be to everyone's taste. One of the inn-keepers is also the chef, and the food was good by any standard, and extraordinary to find in a small inn in Vermont. The charge was $32.50 prix fixe (notably *not* inluding an extra charge even when we had decaffeinated cappucino with dessert, which most big-city restaurants would view as an excuse to levy a surcharge). My friend started with a fabulous chowder which had a hint of lemon mixed with a creamy stock. I had very fine smoked salmon with a dill sauce. Next came an excellent Caesar salad. My friend had rack of lamb as her entree, while I had filet mignon. Both came with a large serving of potatoes and perfectly prepared vegetables. The lamb consisted of a generous potion of seven chops, while the filet was a smaller portion served in an excellent mushroom reduction sauce. Dessert was a fruit tart for me, and chocolate mousse cake for my friend. Both were clearly prepared on the premises and enjoyable. I thought the wine list up to the high standard of the food, and picked '88 Chateau Meyney for around forty dollars (which seemed low to me, perhaps because I'm used to being ripped off by Boston restaurants). Rather than eat at the inn the next evening, we ventured to North Bennington, following the AAA guide, and tried the Main Street Cafe. This seemed to be the only attraction in North Bennington, so I'd advise calling for directions. We were fortunate to be seated in the smaller and quieter rear room; the front area, holding around fifty people, was quite noisy. When our waiter heard that we were new to the restaurant, he suggested that we start with an assortment of appetizers, and brought out first a plate of two grilled scallops with smoked salmon (a winner), then stuffed foccacia (less exciting), followed by two preparations of eggplant: grilled in a tomato sauce on a bed of spinach, and stuffed with grilled chicken and fontina cheese. I dreaded how much this would cost, and was amazed when the bill arrived to find that we had only been charged eleven dollars. By this point, we were stuffed (perhaps we hadn't really recovered from dinner at the Inn the night before), and eschewed meat in favor of salmon on pasta with a red pepper and lemon sauce for my friend, and swordfish on a bed of spinach for me. First came another Caesar salad (had we known, perhaps we would have gone lighter on the appetizers), and, nearly defeated, my friend and I split a lovely tiramisu for dessert. The level of service was extraordinary, and the waiter, even on an obviously busy night, was more gracious and knowledgeable than any I've had recently in Boston. The total, with two glasses of chardonnary, came to around ninety dollars, including tip. Driving across Vermont the next morning, we stopped for Sunday brunch at the White House Inn in Wilmington. This might barely be manageable as a day trip from Boston in foliage season, since it's around two and a half hours from Boston on scenic roads. Brunch was $14 for an all-you-can eat buffet featuring pancakes (yes, with real maple syrup), eggs Benedict, fresh cut ham, poached salmon, scrambled eggs, a very full assortment of pastries, and some splendid cakes and pies for dessert. The staff was again friendly and helpful, and the next time that I'm up for a vacation, I'm heading back to see what the chef can do at dinner.--Rob
Vermont