My Visit to St Louis

 Rene G. wrote:
> I've been living in Chicago for a while now but never got around to
> visiting St Louis. Recently I had the chance to spend several days
> there. Even though I was ostensibly there on business, I managed to
cram
> in as many food related activities--and as much food--as time allowed.
And you barely scratched the surface, too!  Come back again and eat more! ;-)

> Back to the Hill next day for sandwiches at Amighetti's. All were good
> but the Amighetti's Special was the standout (I usually despise
> mayonnaise on sandwiches, especially Italian-style ones, but it worked
> very well). Cannoli were disappointing: filled too far in advance and
> soggy. Still, a good place.
>
The sensible thing to do is to eat the sandwich and go elsewhere for dessert.

>
> The Missouri Baking Company had more in stock (still almost no bread)
> and almost everything looked good. I liked the croccanti but the big
> flat squares of cheesecake were slightly disappointing (crust too
thick
> and soggy). Judging from appearances, I'll bet some of their stuff is
> great. Any favorites there?
>

Yes.  THIS is where you should buy your cannoli.

> Volpi's is a fun little place. I've bought (and enjoyed) their salamis
> many times in Chicago so it was interesting to go to the source. A
small
> but well chosen selection. I brought back some bresaola and a
cotechino
> (can't wait to boil that baby up and serve it with heaps of lentils).

You didn't go to Viviano's?  The smell there alone is worth the visit!

>
> Then off to Soulard Market. Again, too late but I liked this place a
> lot. Looks like a market, feels like a market, smells like a market.
> Produce wasn't real exciting but I'd love to see it earlier in the day
> and later in the season. I bought some organic sorghum and am kicking
> myself for not getting a few pounds of black walnuts.
>

Go early on Saturday and skip the Italians who shop at wholesalers and resell there.  Look for real farmers.

>
> Wandered around University City and stopped at Fitz's for some snacks
> and root beer. The root beer was first-rate (and the free refills were
> very nice) but the food could use some work. Mediocre quesadillas,
lousy
> nachos, and my very first toasted ravioli. The ravioli weren't bad at
> all but I suspect there are much better ones to be had. Where?
Watching
> that ancient bottling line (and the people climbing all over it trying
> to fix it) was fun.
>

You were within an easy walk of MUCH better food.  Riddle's Penultimate Cafe, right across from the Tivoli, has innovative American food and the hugest wine list you have ever seen.

> I was quite impressed with Jay International, a very nice food store.
> One of the more diverse selections I've seen in a single shop.
>
And their county facility, Global Market is stunning.  They must have fifty types of sausages in the deli, and they have whole frozen goats (dressed) and every other food you could imagine.

> We tried to have dinner at Yemanja Brasil but didn't have reservations
> and were turned away. This looked like an exceedingly interesting spot
> and I'm really looking forward to a return visit. Anyone have comments
> on this place?
>

Yes. Order the feijoada, and be prepared to split it with someone. It;s HUGE and delicious.

> Ended up at India's Rasoi, which I thought was quite good but not
> stellar. The breads were nice and I regret not trying some of the
> tandoori items.
>
Go to House of India on Delmar.  They have a wonderful Sunday brunch and an adequate weekday one, plus wonderful food on the menu.  Much better than Rasoi.

> Much will have to wait until next visit. I never did manage to find
time
> (or space) for a St Louis pizza. Where should one go?
Do NOT try St. Louis pizza if you like sauce or bread at all. St. Louis pizza (and I'm a native, so I'm entitled to grouse about it) is like ketchup on a cracker.  The crust is thin to crackling, the sauce is bland, and the cheese is seldom real.  If you MUST eat it, go to a bar in South St. Louis.  Imo's is the most famous proponent, but as far as I'm concerned, it is not pizza.

Ditto for
snoots.
> Guidance in this matter is especially important because I'd imagine a
> subpar snoot could be a nasty experience.
>

You need a little barbecue joint, preferably one owned by African-Americans.  There used to be a good one on Page, but I cannot recall the name.  Snoots are like giant pork rinds, and many folks cannot stand 'em.

> Any comments and suggestions would be appreciated. What are some
> essential stops for future visits? I'd be especially interested in
> hearing about the little dives and holes-in-the-walls off the tourist
> track.
>

Actually, you haven't even touched on the wealth of Oriental restaurants we have here.  I recommend strongly the Royal Chinese Barbecue on Olive in U. City (real Chinese roast duck and pork on weekends, fabulous Hong Kong "pots" and stirfries the rest of the time), the Thai "empire" on Delmar of Thai Cafe, Thai Gai Yong and Thai Seafood, and the Lemongrass on Grand.  Or the quirky Saigon Cafe on Olive, where you can get more familiar Vietnamese dishes PLUS the scarce and authentic Vietnamese sandwich, a relic of French colonialism.

When the weather is warmer, you will need to visit Ted Drewes' Frozen Custard.  Start with a SMALL smoothie or custard.  You may find a large one indigestible, as there is a lot of butter fat in it.

Definitely save time for Riddle's, if you make time for nowhere else.

You did very well for a first visit. Most locals never get around to so many good places.

A few candidates for next time:
- Crown Candy for an ice cream soda in the afternoon.
- Malmaison, French food in the boonies. The dessert "basket" is special.
- Big Chief, kind of a wacky place for elk, bison or ostrich, also in the boonies. Have the sweet potato.

Rene G. wrote:

> I've been living in Chicago for a while now but never got around to
> visiting St Louis. Recently I had the chance to spend several days
> there. Even though I was ostensibly there on business, I managed to cram
> in as many food related activities--and as much food--as time allowed.
> My gracious and patient hosts helped and guided me throughout the visit
> and made the whole thing a real pleasure. I'd like to report some of our
> activities and hope to get some comments and suggestions for future
> visits.
>
> We began with a visit to Dominic's, one of the better restaurants I've
> been to in a while. It's certainly elegant, something that aroused my
> suspicions at first, but all that show is backed up by a solid kitchen.
> The highlights were a top-notch osso bucco, nearly perfect sauteed
> spinach, and excellent espresso. It's clear why this place is popular.
>
> Back to the Hill next day for sandwiches at Amighetti's. All were good
> but the Amighetti's Special was the standout (I usually despise
> mayonnaise on sandwiches, especially Italian-style ones, but it worked
> very well). Cannoli were disappointing: filled too far in advance and
> soggy. Still, a good place.
>
> Went to Vitale's Bakery in search of bread but because we were so late
> almost everything was gone. Some of the cookies looked awfully good
> though.
>
> The Missouri Baking Company had more in stock (still almost no bread)
> and almost everything looked good. I liked the croccanti but the big
> flat squares of cheesecake were slightly disappointing (crust too thick
> and soggy). Judging from appearances, I'll bet some of their stuff is
> great. Any favorites there?
>
> Volpi's is a fun little place. I've bought (and enjoyed) their salamis
> many times in Chicago so it was interesting to go to the source. A small
> but well chosen selection. I brought back some bresaola and a cotechino
> (can't wait to boil that baby up and serve it with heaps of lentils).
>
> Then off to Soulard Market. Again, too late but I liked this place a
> lot. Looks like a market, feels like a market, smells like a market.
> Produce wasn't real exciting but I'd love to see it earlier in the day
> and later in the season. I bought some organic sorghum and am kicking
> myself for not getting a few pounds of black walnuts.
>
> No visit to St Louis would be complete without a visit to the World's
> Only Floating McDonald's, right? The iced tea was exquisite (and the
> croccanti from Missouri Baking Company were nice).
>
> Dinner at Bobby's. The Cajun food was respectable and that veggie dish
> from Fiji was interesting. But, yikes, that Boulevard Weissbier was
> awful (I'm a big fan of Weissbier but not of that stuff).
>
> Wandered around University City and stopped at Fitz's for some snacks
> and root beer. The root beer was first-rate (and the free refills were
> very nice) but the food could use some work. Mediocre quesadillas, lousy
> nachos, and my very first toasted ravioli. The ravioli weren't bad at
> all but I suspect there are much better ones to be had. Where? Watching
> that ancient bottling line (and the people climbing all over it trying
> to fix it) was fun.
>
> I was quite impressed with Jay International, a very nice food store.
> One of the more diverse selections I've seen in a single shop.
>
> We tried to have dinner at Yemanja Brasil but didn't have reservations
> and were turned away. This looked like an exceedingly interesting spot
> and I'm really looking forward to a return visit. Anyone have comments
> on this place?
>
> Ended up at India's Rasoi, which I thought was quite good but not
> stellar. The breads were nice and I regret not trying some of the
> tandoori items.
>
> Much will have to wait until next visit. I never did manage to find time
> (or space) for a St Louis pizza. Where should one go? Ditto for snoots.
> Guidance in this matter is especially important because I'd imagine a
> subpar snoot could be a nasty experience.
>
> Any comments and suggestions would be appreciated. What are some
> essential stops for future visits? I'd be especially interested in
> hearing about the little dives and holes-in-the-walls off the tourist
> track.
>
> Questions about Chicago? Just ask, I'll be happy to help.
>

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Next time you are in St. Louis you must try Lagniappe's (2501 S. Ninth Street)in Soulard area. The owners, Bill & Brenda go out of thier way to make you feel welcome and the food is great. Bill worked at Rigazzi's for many years & now opened his own place.

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