Here's a few Hawaiian restaurants that I found in an old (December, 1994) issue of "Esquire." Canoe House (at the Mauna Lani Bay Hotel, 1 Mauna Lani Bay Drive, Kohala Coast, Hawaii; telephone (808) 885-6622). Alan Wong, "most versatile of the islands' young chefs" cooks a variety of hybrid Hawaiian food mixed with various other cultures, like kalua-pig quesadilla or roast opakapaka with a Thai curry sauce. The restaurant is open to the ocean. Sam Choy's Restaurant (735576 Kauhola Street, Kailua-Kona, Hawaii; tele- phone (808) 326-1545). Sam Choy "is to Hawaiian food what Paul Prudhomme is to Cajun--an ebullient creator and propagator of his region's native cooking." He serves things like "hangover" fish soup with potatoes, mustard cabbage and peanuts, and Kaloko steak with grilled Maui onions at what the author of the article described as a "bare-bones eatery." Haliimaile General Store (900 Haliimaile Road, Makawao, Maui; telephone (808) 572-2666). Pacific Rim food is severd at this restaurant that sits on the slopes of Mount Haleakala, surrounded by pineapple fields. Food like paniolo pork ribs and Szechuan salmon with carmelized onions is served. Go on Monday nights, when the locals usually dine. Cafe Kula (at the Grand Wailea Resort, 3850 Wailea Alanui Drive, Wailea, Maui; telephone (808) 875-1234). Serving Maui's "up-country" spa food, like basmati-rice torta with grilled vegetables and spicy black-bean chili with corn bread and mango salsa. Todd Krissel [email removed]
Hawaii