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Review: Sonny Bryan's original location, Dallas

2 posts · May 12, 1999 to May 13, 1999

Dan C.May 12, 1999
NNTP-Posting-Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:44:22 PDT
Organization: SBC Internet Services
Xref: alexander.INS.CWRU.Edu alt.food.barbecue:10429

I posted comments on a visit to the legendary Sonny Bryan's Inwood Road location about a year ago ... a lunchtime visit today confirms for me that the new corporate owners are busier with expanding their empire than paying attention to the food.

The grade school desks that serve as inside eating tables (imagine a first grade classroom,  it's THAT kind of desk ...) have been resurfaced with new formica,  at least one of 'em has had a piece of the formica torn off,  confirming it's original wood underneath.  The new management has confused use of them by placing "Reserved for (name)" signs over about half the desks.  None of them were occupied when we stopped by, although there were a lot of people eating ... standing up.

Alas,  the stack of wood out back appears to be just that;  a stack of wood.  I theorized a year ago that the meat was actually smoked off-premises and 'warmed' at the Inwood Road restaurant.  I saw and smelled nothing that indicated otherwise.

The brisket was the same as I remembered from a year ago:   virtually tasteless, a gummy-moist mess that appeared (I shudder to think it's true ...) to have been reheated in a microwave.  I had a beef/sausage po-boy,  the sausage was cold,  the po-boy roll dry and hard.  Even the bbq sauce was lacking in spice.

It was my companion's (sound like a real reviewer,  don't I??? <g>) first visit;  the "to go" menu had the story of the Bryan bbq legend on its back-side,  and I added stories of the days in the 70's when I'd see R. Perot and assorted other Dallas Billionaires outside with their plates balanced on the hoods or trunks of their cars,  their fingers dripping with sauce.

The Sonny Bryan locations keep expanding in the Dallas area;  obviously the name is still magical.  It's a damn shame what has happened to the product.  And that all those Yankees packing the places now haven't a clue as to how good it used to be.

Your experience may differ;  but I doubt it seriously!
Dan C.May 13, 1999
NNTP-Posting-Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 07:50:28 PDT
Organization: SBC Internet Services
Xref: pale-rider.INS.CWRU.Edu alt.food.barbecue:10443

who is it wrote:
>
> it seems that way at most of the SB i have eaten at in the last year. both
> of them downtown same MO.
> Dan C. wrote:
> > I posted comments on a visit to the legendary Sonny Bryan's Inwood Road
> > location about a year ago ... a lunchtime visit today confirms for me
> > that the new corporate owners are busier with expanding their empire
> > than paying attention to the food.
>

Two private emails report virtually identical impressions of Sonny Bryan's locations,  and asking for recommendations on Dallas area bbq:

Local weekly claims that Baker's Ribs, locations on Commerce just east of downtown and on Greenville at University has surpassed Sonny Bryan's and is "best in Dallas".  From my last visits there a few months ago, I'd agree they're superior to Bryan's current product,  but I'd hate to think their bbq is actually "best in Dallas"   It's not THAT good!

Two Pardners,  on Abrams just south of NW Highway,  has an interesting bbq, with killer collard greens,  only place I've found 'em in North Dallas  (don't let folks at the country club know I actually EAT collards <g>) ...

Red Hot and Blues on Central at Walnut Hill has Brunwick stew, including an all you can eat special on it at noon that includes a bbq sandwich for $5.95.

Zeus on Lover's Lane by Love Field is kaput.  Pokey's has moved to former Arby's on NW Highway east of Abrams, wasn't impressed with prices or product.

As always,  your experience may differ.
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