The Epicurean

Oysters appear on the menu the same as in the Russian service; on French bills of fare they do not mention them. Suppress oysters in every month not containing the letter R, such as: May, June, July and August, and serve Little Neck clams instead. Soups are served after the oysters. One clear and one thick soup should be selected but if only one is needed, give the preference to the clear soup. hoes-d'ceuvre, side oe light dishes. Hot hors-d'oeuvre are, generally, timbales, croustades, cromesquis, palmettes, mousselines, bouch^es, cannelons, cassolettes, rissoles, etc. With the same course serve cold side dishes, such as olives, radishes, canapfe, caviare, pickled tunny, anchovies, etc. In the French service, the fish and the solid joints come under the head of relev^s or removes. In the American and English service, first comes the fish, then the removes. If the fish be boiled or braized, add potatoes to the menu; if broiled or saut6d, some cucumber salad; and, if fried, serve plain or with a light sauce.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 18. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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An oblong shaped table is preferable for a large dinner party, the feet being less incommodious; it must at least be six or seven feet wide and twenty-two feet long, with rounded ends. This shaped table is most generally used, although some prefer round, or horse-shoe ones, or an oblong with square ends, and many other fanciful shapes, depending entirely on the size of the room and the taste of the host. Tables can be lengthened according to the number of seats desired; the space allowed for €aeh guest is, for a square table with square ends, two feet apart between each plate; when the ends are curved, the space for the corners must be twenty-two inches apart, and if entirely round, twenty inches. Cover a table twenty-two by seven with a felt cover made for the purpose, then over this lay a tablecloth twenty-four feet long and eight or nine feet wide, being careful that it is exceedingly white and smooth, having no creases whatever. Fold a well starched, large napkin, pinch it triangularly, and place it in the center of the table; have twenty-four smaller napkins also well starched, folded and pinched, and place these at the edge of the table and on each one set a plate with another napkin on top, folded either shaped as a boat, a tulip, or any other pretty design, or else the napkin may be simply folded square. The bread is placed either under the folds or in the center of the napkin, according to the manner in which it is displayed, or on a small plate to the left of the cover. Another way is to place the bread in front of the napkin. On the left of each plate, lay a table fork and also a fish fork. On the right set a table knife, a silver flsh knife, a soup spoon, also a small fork for oysters or Little Neck clams In front, but slightly toward the right of each plate, set a small individual salt-cellar. The double silver pepper castors containing black and red pepper are distributed two on each side, and two at each end of the table, with eight single ones between the double ones. Glasses are placed in a semi-circle either in front of the plate or else on the right: arrange these according to the courses to be served. First, water glass; second, white wine; third, sherry; fourth, Rhine wine; fifth, champagne; and sixth, Bordeaux. Before serving the entrees remove the white wine. Sherry and Rhine wine glasses and replace them by fine Bordeaux and Burgundy glasses. Glasses intended for dessert wines and liquors, are only put on the table with the dessert, i.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 21. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Oysters. — Little Neck clams are passed around, beginning on one side by the lady on the right and the other side by the gentleman on the right, these being the most distinguished guests; change this method at each course, those being served last before, being the first now. The butler will pour out the Chablis, stating the name of each wine he serves. ^'oH^.— There are usually two soups to select from. While serving green turtle offer at the same time lemon cut in quarters. Sherry should be served with this course. Side Dishes. — Pass hot hors-d'oeuvre; these are served on warm plates. Serve the cold hors d'ceuvre at the same time, and should the guest prefer the latter, remove the hot plate at once and substitute a cold one for it. Slierry or Xeres should accompany this cour.se. Fish. — If there be two kinds of tisli, offer the.selection, and pass round the one preferred; should it be boiled or braized fish, have potatoes served at the same time; if broiled or sauted thinly sliced seasoned fresh cucumbers must accompany it, and if fried fish such as whitebait, serve with thin slices of buttei-ed brown bread and quarters of lemon. Serve Rhine wine or white Bordeau.x. Removes or Solid Joints. — The removes may be placed on the table before being taken off for carving; if it be a saddle of venison, it should be cooked rare, passing currant jelly at the same time. A saddle of mutton must also be rare and very hot; it can be cut lengthwise at an angle in thin slices or across, although the first way is preferable; serve both these on very hot plates, and have one or two vegetables accompanying them. Serve champagne. Entrees. — The entrees must be served one after the otiier without placing them on the table beforehand; they must be served on hot plates with one vegetable for each entree, to be either passed round separately or else carefully laid on the same plate, unless it is desired that they be dressed; in this case dress and present to each guest. Serve Bordeau.x at the first entree, and an e.Ktra quality of wine at the last; continue serving champagne to those who prefer to drink it until the roast.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 23. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Iced Punch or Sherbet. — Should there be no ladies present, cigarettes can be handed round at the same time. Remove the two white wine and sherry glasses, and replace them by those used for Burgundy, also remove the cold side dishes. Ten to fifteen minutes must now be allowed between the courses. Roasts. — The roast may be displayed on the table before carving, this being frequently requested by epicures; should there be several roasts, carve them all at the same time and pass them round according to desire, adding a little watercress for poultry, and should there be canvas-back duck, let currant jelly and fried hominy be served with also a mayonnaise of celery. Serve the Burgundy from bottles laid fiat in ba.skcts (Fig. 767) holding the basket in the right hand and a white napkin in the left. Cold. — Serve the cold dishes after the roast, these to be either goose livers (foies-gras) with truffies or boned turkey. The foies-gras must have a spoon to remove it with, and the boned turkey be cut into thin slices, and offer both to the guest at the same time, accompanied by green salads.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 23. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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It is now time for the hostess to bow, push back her chair and prepare to rise, this being a signal for the ladies to retire; after they have returned to the drawing-room, coffee is passed round on a salver containing spoons, hot water, sugar and cream. A few moments later another waiter comes forward with an empty tray to remove the cups the ladies hand him. The gentlemen partake of their eoflfee in the dining-room; at the same time serve them Kirsch, bi-aiuly. chartreuse, cigars and cigarettes. The doors are closed and the ladies and waiters have retired so as to allow the gentlemen more freedom to talk among themselves, still it will be necessary to enter the drawing room and dining-room occasionally in order to see whether anything be needed so as to avoid being called as much as possible. After half an hour or so, the gentlemen will rejoin the ladies in the drawing-room and then tea is served. The tea service is accomplished by passing around on trays, tea, sugar, hot water, cream, cups, spoons and slices of lemon. A few moments later another waiter removes the empty cups on a tray. After the tea the service is considered to be ended. TEENOH SEEVIOE (Service a la Iranpaise), There are two different services in use: The French and the Russian. Although recognizing the priority of both of these services, it will be well to mention the difference existing between them and the English and the American service; first, they tliffer in the classification of the bills of fare and certain changes in the table service, these alone are sufficient to be interesting. The old style of French service threatens to disappear entirely and is rarely used, except on Tery rare occasions. The three services placed on the table, one after the other, had certainly the advantage of displaying the culinary labor as well as the most variegated and rare products by exhibiting them in all their profuseness. But the great inconvenience is the preparation of dishes beforehand in the kitchen in order to have each service ready at once and to keep them hot in heaters before beginning to serve the dinner. The dishes for tlie first course are placed on the table in chafing dishes provided with covere, to be lifted off when tlie guests are seated, and left on the table till ready to be carved. Of course this inconvenience is somewhat remedied by keeping the heaters and chafing dishes at a given heat, and there must be placed near the table, either behind a sci-een in the diningroom or else in an adjoining pantry, a bain-marie with all the necessary sauces required for the

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 24. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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The habit we have of eating everything very hot and very fast comes to us from the " Russian service:" it differs from the French service in the very fact that nothing hot appears on the table, everything is cut up as needed, either in the kitchen or pantry. The carvmg should be performed TABLE SKRVICE. 11 very neatly, having all the pieces of even size and placed at once symmetrically either in a circle or Btraiglit row on dishes for ten or less persons, then passed round to the guests, who help themselves or are helped, according to their wish. As for the solid joints, removes or roasts, they can be served precisely the same, or else laid on very hot plates and handed directly to each guest. There must be a sufficiency of every kind of entree to serve for every pereon present. Should there be several and a variety of roasts and only one service required, then carve a third part of each one, or more of one than the other if certain dishes seem to be preferred. If there be several removes the same course can be pursued. As soon as one course is being passed around, the following one should be brought from the kitchen so that the dinner can be served uninterruptedly and eaten while hot and palatable. The cold meat pieces'may be dressed and arranged on the table the same as the candelabras, silverware, bronze vases and Hower baskets, all of these to be in the center line of the table, leaving eighteen inches of.space uncovered between the end of the line and the edge of the table; between this center line and the edge draw a round or oval or any other desirable shape at eighteen inches above the edge. If there Ije two cold meat pieces lay them on the sides of the table and in the center of the line, and if four, then two at the sides and two at the ends in the center, if eight then have four at the corners between the sides and ends on the eighteen-inch line above the edge; finish to decorate this line with cold sweet dishes, baskets of fresh fruits, shelved stands filled with bonbons, cossacks, Victorias, drums containing small fancy cakes, compoted dried fruits, etc., all these ornaments give the table a charming effect and should be arranged before the guests enter the dining-room. The straight line alone and the cold meat pieces can be also arranged, finishing at eighteen inches from the edge with garlands of leaves and flowers instead of the dessert, and when ready to serve the cold pieces, take them off and replace them by the taller desserts, shelved stands and drums, ranging the others here and there, half on either side of the table between the middle line and the flowers. Hot sweet entremets are always served gs extras or " flying di.shes," after the vegetables. The service is far less sumptuous and elegant than the French one, yet it pleases many and is very fashionable at the present time. The remainder of the service is e.xactly like the French. The old-fashioned bills of fare for the Russian service were classed differently to those of to-day; further on they will be found in great variety, appertaining to different epoclis and a selection can be made of those most suitable; the service remains invariably the same, the only change being in the bill of fare. It is the custom in Russia to serve the iced punches or sherbets after the fish, but it is certainly preferable to wait until the entrees are removed.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 26. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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First part. — The soup is either consomme in cups, or barley cream, or rice and almond milk. These must be perfectly clear in order to serve them in cups the same as the consomme. Oyster.s prepared in different styles: Fricasseed, Hollandaise, Bechamel, poulette, Viennese, crawfish sauce, etc.; oysters fried or stuffed, small bouchees filled with salpicon, chicken or game croquettes, sweetl)reads, lobster, etc., Timbales and mousselines; terrapin, Maryland or Newburg for white, Baltimore and Maryland Club for brown; red-liead ducks and canvas-back, also quails and squabs and sometimes deviled crabs, stuffed lobsters, scallops a la Brestoise or frog

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 28. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Second part.— Decorate the table with hors-d'oeuvre composed of radishes, olives, celery, anchovy toasts etc. Large pieces such as a richly decorated salmon, a tenderloin of beef garnished with vegetables, boned turkey and capon, ham stuffed with pistachio nuts and truffles, a suckling pig, a boar's head, large dishes of turkey and capon, truffled or otherwise. Volieres of peacock, young swans, pheasants and guinea fowls ornamented with their natural feathers, large terrines of Strasburg foies-gras, woodcock, snipe, reedbirds, quails, leverets, veal kernels and game " pains," en damier; bastions of roast game on croiitons and garnished with. fresh water-cress, pyramids of lobsters and crawfish and truffles. There are a great variety of elegant entrcies, and among others the following ones may be selected: Aspics of all kinds, red beef tongue, foies-gras, fillets of chickens, oysters, etc.; white and brown ohaufroids of partridge and chicken, also ravigote ducks, galantines of chicken, cream of pigeons, S()uabs and quails covered with chaufroid and decorated with black truffles and very green pistachio nuts; smoked and unsmoked tongue well glazed and dressed pyramid form; lamb chops au vert pre, ballotinos of quails and squabs, ducklings pear shaped and thrushes a la Perigord; terrines of Nerac and ducks' livers a la Toulouse and young rabljit a la mode de Rouen; pains of chicken or game. Entrees of larks and reedbirds, chicken mayonnaise; lobster, shrimp, crab and salmon salads, also salad a la Russe, and at equal distances have plates of small breads garnished with rillettes and fine sandwiches. Select from all this gastronomical wealth those dishes liable to satisfy the appetite and at the same time make a beautiful display on the table.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 28. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Although set with more simplicity than the dinner table, nothing elegant must be lacking; in the center of the table place a (lower decoration, either a double cornicopia, or a boat, or two do-ssers set back to back, or a vase, or a temple, etc., according to the reason the lunch was offered to the guests. On each side place a piece made of nougat, one of spun sugar, and at each end a high stand on tiers filled with bonbons, Victorias, mottoes, etc. At eighteen or twenty-four inches from the edge, according to the width of the table, draw a line the same shape as the table and lay on this decanters of white and sherry wines, also water decanters, one for every two persons; two fruit dishes, four containing small fancy cakes, and two of dried fruits. Set semicircular around each plate as many glasses as there are wines; on the right hand lay a card bearing the name of the guest, and on the left a dress or buttonhole bouquet and the menu standing against the flower vase. Decorate the sideboard with the dessert service; carve the meats near the dining-room, and see that everything is served very hot. Let the wines be of a proper temperature, and specify each one while serving it; as soon as everything is in complete order, open the doors and bow, which means that the lunch is ready, and the guests may assemble in the dining-room to take tlieir places at the seats designated on their cards. The service begins the same as the dinner and continues likewise until the coffee is served, when the ladies retire to the drawing-room to partake of theirs, to listen to music, or to withdraw unceremoniously. If the lunch should be intended for gentlemen only, suppress all ornamentation except the flowers and fruits; the menu should be more substantial, and if for ladies and gentlemen together, serve the same as for a dinner, observing the same etiquette.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 29. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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The breakfast table must be laid simpler, although with as much care and taste as for all other meals; naturally there is less ceremony to be observed for a breakfast, the simplicity of the bill of fare and wines rendering it far easier to serve. The hors-d'oeuvre and fruit may be placed on the table, and ^-hen a dressy appearance is desired, flowers or high cold pieces, such as meat pies, chaufroids, aspics, trout or salmon, mary also be added. The service for the wines and cooking is exactly the same as for a dinner. SUPPLIES (Approvisionnements), Good cooking is only obtained by having all the ingredients healthy, appetizing and nutritious; the stomach must not be fatigued, and yet the eye and the palate have to be somewhat flattered. A dish may be more or less.simple, more or less difflcult, Init it must satisfy the taste and to obtain this result a cook should only use the best materials and those of the very freshest. All the supplies should be of the very first choice; the best cook in the world can fail to work properly unless the provisions are of the best. A cook anxious to perform his duty must pay the strictest attention to the selection of the food; this alone constitutes a science based on a deep knowledge and long practice. Beef must have light red, marbled meat, the fat being firm to the touch. Veal meat to be white and firm, also its fat. Mutton has red meat firm and marbled, the fat to be white. Pork must be carefully selected from pigs raised on acorns or corn, having firm, white meat, and firm, white, brittle fat. Chickens to be plump, the breast bone flexible, the ribs easily cracked. Pinch the pinion bones to see whether they are tender; the same of turkeys, other poultry and game. Old fowls can never replace young chickens, therefore use them as little as possible. A fish is to have a clear, fresh eye and must be firm to the touch; mi.strust it as soon as the belly fiesh becomes soft; the smell will indicate whether it be fresh or stale; the same of crustaceans. Vegetables to be selected of the very freshest. Fruits by their appearance and taste.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 30. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Sherbet: Kirsch (3510) Lalla Rookh (3516) Prunelle (3510) Maraschino (8510) Water Ice: Raspljerry (3607) Pine apple (3606) Lemon (3604) Orange (3605) Fancy: Pudding Cavour (3489) Banana in surprise (3541) Plombiere a la Rochambeau (.3482) Vanilla (3458) Chocolate (3449) Coffee (3460) Pistachio (3454) Biscuit glace (3435) Neapolitan (3569) Charlotte russe (3145) ]\[adeira jelly (3186) Apricot flawn (3170) Fresh Fruits (3699j: Bananas, pineapples, apples, oranges, Niagara grapes, huckleberries, currants, muskmelon, watermelon Cheese (3697): Stilton, Gruyere, Cream, Strachino French coffee (3701) Turkish coffee (3702) All the Epicurean recipes are included in the menus. Tlie heading of each recipe being in English and in French permits any person not thoroughly versed in both these languages to compo.se his bill of fare in either the one or the other. He has simply to make his selection of the necessary recipe and ))y referring to the number of the article, write his bill of fare iu English or in French as he so chooses. In wording a dinner bill of fare be very careful to denote the fish or shell fish, the butcher's meat, the poultry and game in season, alternating uhite or brown for each course, also the white or brown sauces. I have as far as practicable replaced the term fillet by breasts for poultry or game and aiguillettes for fish, so that the word fillet need not be too frequently repeated in the same bill of fare. Oysters can be omitted from the bills of fare, also cold side dishes, salads and coffee, besides the details of the dessert following the entremets need only be mentioned by the single word of dessert. (1). BUENT ALMONDS AND PILBERTS (Amandes et Avelines Pralin^es). Split some shelled almonds or lilberts in two; if almonds are used mince well and roast lightly in the oven, on a baking sheet without letting them color, then mix in with them half their weight of sugar and enough egg-white, so they be entirely covered by the sugar. When the burnt almonds are spread on cakes, they must be covered over with sugar and glazed in a brisk oven. (2), CONDE ALMOND OR IILBERT PREPARATION (Appareil a Conde aux Amandes ou Aux

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 184. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Bread stuffing is used to stuff poultry and game and.sometimes fish. Soak in water or milk a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, squeeze out all tlie liquid and put the bread into a saucepan; beat it up with a spoon and add to it a little boiled milk or broth, so as to form a paste the same as for a panada, remove it from the fire and set it aside to cool, season and mix in five or si.x tablespoonfuls of chopped-up onions, either raw or cooked in butter, some chopped parsley and three or four raw egg-yolks. Bread stuffing may also be prepared without cooking, only mixing white bread-crumbs with butter or chopped suet, raw egg-yolks, parsley and chopped onions. American Style.— Steep half a pound of bread-crumbs in milk and when well soaked extract all the liquid; put it over a slow fire in a saucepan and stir up with a spoon, to have it dry; add two ounces of onions, cut in dice, and fried colorless in butter, and when the stuffing is cold, add four ounces either of butter or beef marrow chopped fine, salt, pepper, sage, thyme, parsley, minced green celery leaves and four raw egg-yolks. English.— Ea.\e half a pound of bread-crumbs steeped in white broth and all the liquid extracted; put it on the fire to dry, then add four ounces of beef suet well skinned and chopped up fine: season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and add three ounces of chopped onions fried and lightly colored, one whole egg and four raw egg-yolks. (62). CHICKEN OR GAME FORCEMEAT WITHOUT PANADA (Farce de Volaille ou de Gibier

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 203. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Ingredients. — One jiound of breast of chicken or game, raw and free of sinews; eight egg-yolks, half a pound of butter, salt, i-ed pepper, nutmeg and two gills of well reduced veloute (No. 415). Pass twice through the machine (Fig. 47). One pound of raw and nerveless chicken or game fillets, or else chop the pieces very fine and pound them to reduce to a fine paste; rub this through a round

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 203. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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quenelle sieve (Fig. 142). Incorporate into it eight egg-yolks one by one, also half a pound of butter divided into small pieces; season with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, and add two gills of well reduced veloute (No. 415). Work the forcemeat well in a mortar, so that it acquires a good consistence; test it and if necessary to rectify (see No. 60). This forcemeat is used to make either red, white or green quenelles. (63\ FORCEMEAT OF CHICKEN, FISH OK GAME WITH WHIPPED CKEAM AND BUTTEE (Farce de Volaille, Poisson ou Gibier avec Creme Fouettee et Beurre). Pound half a pound of chicken fillets after passing them twice through the machine (Fig. 47), then press this pulp through a sieve and return it to the mortar to pound once more, mixing in with it little by little, five ounces of butter, one whole egg and four yolks, or instead of the egg and yolks substitute four egg-whites. Season with salt, nutmeg and red pepper, then take out the forcemeat and set it into a thin metal vessel; lay this on the ice, beat up the forcemeat well for a few minutes, incorporating slowly into it the volume of one pint of very firm, well drained whipped cream, one pint of cream before being whipped will produce about three pints after being whipped; use the same preparation for forcemeats of game and fish, increasing or decreasing the panada and eggs according to the consistency of the viands employed. (64). CHICKEN LIVEE, FINE BAKING FOECEMEAT (Farce Fine de Poles de Volaille a Gratin). Heat four ounces of grated lard, add to it one pound of sauted cold chicken livers; pound weU half a pound of bread-crumb panada (No. 131), add the livers a little at the time, pounding continually, fry in butter one tablespnonful of shallots, adding to them two tablespoonfuls of mushrooms, half a tablespoonful of truffles, both chopped, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley; when all these ingredients have fried lightly add to them two gills of espagnole sauce (No. 414); let get slightly cold, then stir in one whole egg and three yolks; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add the chicken livers, rub all forcibly through a sieve and mix this preparation with one poil_id of quenelle forcemeat. (65», CHOPPED FORCEMEAT FOE CHICKEN GALANTINES (Farce Hachis pour Galantines de

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 204. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Have three pounds of corn-fed lean pork, free of all its.sinews, and one pound of fat pork; cut them both into inch squares, then chop them up finely together, and season with an ounce of salt and a teaspoonful of ground black pepper, a quarter of an ounce of powdered sage, the sixth part of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, a bit of powdered saltpetre and a gill of water. "Work well together so as to mix thoroughly. (70). COOKED CHOPPED FORCEMEAT WITH CHESTNUTS AND WITH CHESTNUTS AND TRUFFLES (Farce Hachis Cuite aux Marrons et aux Marrons et Truffes). For each pound of forcemeat, chop up one medium shallot; fry it colorless in butter, then add to it one pound of chopped ordinary sausage-meat (No. 68); let it cook for a few minutes, and add four ounces of chopped chicken liver for every pound of the sausage-meat; season with pepper, salt and nutmeg, and let cook for a few minutes longer, then add some chopped pai-sley and two pounds of cooked whole chestnuts. With Chestnuts and Truffles.— yi\\ one-half trufflesandone-half chestnuts with this forcemeat. (71). CHOPPED FORCEMEAT WITH TRUFFLES (Farce Hachis aux Truffes). Add to the chopped forcemeat for ordinary sausage-meat (No. 68), one-half pound of raw or preserved black truffles cut in slices, and mix in also half a gill of Madeira wine for every pound of sausage-meat. In winter the truffles may be added two or three days in advance, not in summer, as they are liable to mold. (72). CODFISH FORCEMEAT FOR STUFFING FISH (Farce de Morue Fraiche Pour Farcir les Chop up finely one pound of codfish free of bone and skin. Break three eggs in a saucepan, season with salt and pepper and add one gill of cream and a teaspoonful of butter, cook on the fire stirring the same as for scramliled eggs, let this cool, have also two ounces of bread crumbs soaked in milk and well squeezed. Put four ounces of butter in a sautoire with two finely chopped shallots, fry without coloring, then add the fisli, four ounces of mushrooms and an ounce of truffles both to be finely chopped; season with half an ounce of spiced salt (No. 168), and into ii stir the scrambled eggs and the bread crumbs. Cover the saucepan and cook in the oven for an hour, after removing beat in a spoonful of chopped parsley and four raw egg-yolks. This preparation can also be used for rissoles and coulibiacs. (73), COOKED AND RAW GAME OR CHICKEN FORCEMEAT FOR LINING CASES FOR SWEETBREADS, CHICKEN, ETC. (Farce Onite et Crue de Gibier ou de Volaille pour

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 205. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Have one pound of raw chicken or game fillets cut in dice, fry them in four ounces of butter, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and let cook for a few minutes, then set away to cool. Begin by pounding the meat, then add gradually to it eight ounces of butter, or calf's udder in small bits, and remove the whole from tlie mortar. Pound ten ounces of flour and milk panada, (No. 121), add to it eight egg-yolks one by one, and then the cooked meat, and continue pounding for ten minutes longer; rub all through a fine sieve, and mix to this forcemeat one pound of raw quenelle forcemeat (No. 89); either of chicken or game. Poach one of the quenelles and rectify if necessary as explained (No. 60); four spoonfuls of cooked flue herbs may be added to this forcemeat. <74). CREAM CHICKEN FORCEMEAT WITH BECHAMEL AND MUSHROOM PUREE (larce de Volaille a la Cr^me a la Bfchamel et Puree de Champignons). For this forcemeat obtain one pound of chicken or game meat without any nerves or skin, pass this twice through the machine (Fig. 47), or else chop it up and pound to pulp; season with salt, red pepper and nutmeg, and mix in with one egg-white and two gills of cream bechamel (No. 411), and two gills of mushroom pur6e. For the puree of mushrooms, chop up one pound of peeled fresh mushrooms, cook them in butter till they have rendered all their moisture, then season and pound them with a third of their quantity of good bechamel reduced and thickened. When cold mix the mu.shrooms in gradually with the forcemeat in the mortar, rub all through a fine sieve, and try it to see whether it be too solid, if so, add some sweet cream by working it in with a whip, so as to have it consistent and smooth. (75). CHICKEN OR GAME CREAM POROEMEAT (Farce a la Creme de Volaille ov de Gibier). Have one pound of chicken or game meat (the breast), free of nerves or skin, pass them twice through the machine (Fig. 47); or else chop and pound to a pulp, then press through a sieve, return to the mortar and mix in one egg-white, half an ounce of salt, red pepper and nutmeg, the equal quantity of six or eight gills of cream, before whipping; mixing it in gradually with a whip and working it well. Should the forcemeat be too thick add cream, and if it lacks consistency, (76). CREAM FORCEMEAT OF FISH (Farce de Poisson a la Creme). Take one pound of boned and skinned bass or any other firm fish; pound and rub it through a fine sieve; return it to the mortar, season with an ounce of salt, some nutmeg and red pepper and mix in while still stirring with a whip, two egg-whites and from six to eight gills of cream, measured before whipping; pass the whole through a very fine sieve. Try a small piece in order to rectify if not correct, and if found to be too firm add more cream, and if too soft some more eggwhites. (77). BAKED FISH FORCEMEAT (Farce a Gratin pour Poisson). Put six ounces of butter into a sautoire and when hot add half a pound of finely chopped mushrooms and two ounces of chopped truffle parings. After the mushrooms have rendered their moisture, add one pound of cooked firm flsh broken into fragments; as the whole becomes hot, remove it from the fire, cool partly, then add five egg-yolks and five whole eggs, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg; pass it through a medium sized sieve (Fig. 98), return to the vessel and beat it well with a spoon, incorporating in two spoonfuls of tomato pur^e, strained through a fine sieve (Fig. 100) and half a pound of raw fish quenelle forcemeat. (78), FOIES GRAS FORCEMEAT (Farce de Poles Gras). Pound half a pound of frangipane panada (No. 120) with six ounces of butter and half a pound of raw and very white fat livers; season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and when the whole is well pounded, strain through a sieve, then add six raw egg-yolks and two well beaten whites while continuing to work the forcemeat. (79), CHICKEN OR GAME FORCEMEAT WITH RICE FOR BORDERS, BOTTOMS OF DISHES AND SURTOUTS (Farce de Volaille ou de Gibier au Riz pom' Bordures, Ponds de Plats et

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 205. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Fig. 123. The salamander and oven liithertofove used in Ititchens to glaze or brown dishes presented difficulties on account of the attention and watchful care it necessarily required. By means of the new gas salamander, fish can be almost instantaneously glazed when covered with a well thickened or buttered sauce without any danger whatever of having the sauce curdle. This salamander is lighted by gas and can be fastened to the wall at the back of the range. It consists of two platforms, the upper one fixed and the lower one movable and sufficiently big to place the largest dishes on it. Naturally the gas comes from the top Fig. 124. and it is easy to regulate its intensity by a stop cock. Two minutes suffice to obtain a perfect glazing without having the bottom of the dish attain the slightest heat, thus the sauce cannot deteriorate whatever. It is an indispensable utensil and assists the cook greatly both as regards its usefulness and speed. Fig. 134 is the reproduction of a very useful broiler, offering numerous facilities for various purposes. The broiling takes place in a metal case, it being provided with five gas tubes, having the sides bored with small holes, the gas projects into small bells to have it purified and then can.be u.sed for broiling without the annoyance of smell nor smoke. It is principally used for broiling toasts, canapes, or toasts for sandwiches'; meats can also be broiled thereon such a.s cutlets, chops and beefsteaks. When the bottom is closed with a movable door, it can be used for roasting chickens, legs of mutton, beef, etc. The top part is useful for keeping things hot. All gas stoves can be regulated and moderated, according to the work, by modifying or in- ■creasing the volume of gas. Fig. 135 shows a singeing apparatus shaped like a horn; the largest part, from whence issues the flame is covered with a very fine metallic cloth which causes the flame to become enlarged. Tliere is an opening on the other or thin -end about an inch in diameter for the purpose of combining the air with the gas, forming aBunsen burner. Poultry and game can be singed without blackening the skin whatever. Fig. 135. Fig. 126. Fig. 126 is a steam table with covered dishes, cases and bain-maries. The square boxes are used for soups, stews, etc.; the covered dishes for large pieces of meat to be carved and for entrees; the small steamers are for keeping the sauces and gravies. Instead of a dish on the right, place a carving-board with a knife and fork. The inside is used for keeping the dishes hot before and after they are dressed. These steam tables are heated by steam or gas, and are advantageously used either as a hot closet or as a substitute for a chafing dish.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 241. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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STEAM KETTLE WITH DOUBLE JACKET (Marmite k Vapevtr avec Double Fond, Fig. 129. A steam double bottom kettle either having a ball in the center or else a winding pipe. In this same shaped pot all systems can be emploj'ed. The one.shown on the figure has a double jacket; on top place a ring and in this a tinned basin; till it half full of boiling water and use it for cooking ices; stocks, broths and consommes are cooked in those having a ball in the center, or else a winding pipe, but the ball is preferable. For cooking potatoes, lobsters, terrapin, etc., iron pots with rounded corners are used; on the bottom is an iron winding pipe furnished with holes: at the bottom is a hole for letting the water from the condensed stream run out, on top a hinged cover sufficiently heavy to close it hermetically, specially required for these kinds of pots. SAUTOIR, SAUOEPAIT, SOUP POT, BRAZIERE (Sautoir, Casserole, Marmite, Braisifere), Fig. 130 represents a flat, thick copper saucepan, generally called a sautoir; they are also made of a thinner copper and are intended for sauteing fillets of chickens, cscalops, cutlets, etc. It is necessary to have these of all sizes, large as well as small. Fig. 131 represents a copper saucepan tinned in the interior and furnished with a cover fitting inwardly. These also must be of all sizes according to the importance of the work to be executed.* Fig vm^ Fio. 131. Fig. 132 represents a glazing saucepan; the edges of this one are only half as high as the ordinary saucepan; it is covered with a hollow cover fitting outside the pan; this is for the purpose of holding red hot coals or ember so to glaze and color the meats. Fig. vs. Fig. 134. Fig. 133 represents a soup pot for broths with side handles, with or without a faucet, serving to draw off the liquid. Copper pots are preferalsle to iron or earthen ones, the first give the broth or soup a dark color and the latter in time acquire a Ijad taste. Fig. 134 represents a braiziere or long stew pan having rounded ends and handles. Its deep cover is made to hold hot embers, but this is not necessary if the braizing is done in the oven, then a well fitting cover will be found sufficient. FISH KETTLE (Poissonni^re), Fig. 135 represents a fish kettle, these are either of copper or tin. The fish is placed on a metal sheet perforated with half inch holes, this has handles on both sides, it is put down into the bottom of the fish kettle and lifted again when the fish is cooked, thus avoiding the breaking of it. Fig. 136 represents oblong shaped, deep baking pans having handles on each end. These pans are furnished with a perforated metal grate. Their raised edge cover (Fig. 136), can when turned upside down, also serve for a deep pan suitable for cooking flat fishes, fricandeaux, sweetbreads, etc. Fig. 137 represents a series of six small timbales with flat bottoms ranging from No. 1 to No. 6. These timbales as shown in the figures are just half their actual size. Fig. 138 shows a series of conve.x molds for mousselines, No. 1 to No. 6. These molds lil^e the flat bottomed ones are drawn half their proper size. They are to be placed on metal sheets perforated according to the size of the molds, supported by half inch high feet. Fig. 139. Fig. 139 are various border molds, the first has a concave bottom and is specially used for dressing entrees of cliiclien and game fillets, quenelles, etc. The second is an oval mold with a flat bottom useful for large releve borders. The third is a round bomb shaped mold with flaring sides, used for molding rice or forcemeat borders. The fourth is a plain bottom mold and the fifth is of an octagon shape with a flat bottom.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 243. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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WHIPS OE WHISKS USED TOE KITCHEN AND PASTEY (Fouets de Cuisine et de patisserie), Whips or whisks are made of wicker or tinned wire, several of them should be kept on hand as they are frequently used. The wicker ones are the best, especially for beating creams, but for whipping hot liquids, such as consomme, sweet or meat jellies, the wire ones are preferable. When beating the white of eggs be careful to observe that the tin on the whisks is partly worn off, for the contact of egg-white with new tin causes it to curdle (Fig. 154). made of untinned brass wire, the wire not being as heavy as the other. Fig. 154. Some use whisks KITCHEN KNIVES, CLEAVEE, OAN-OPENEE (Couteaux de Cuisine, Couperet, Ouvre-boite), Have one large, strong knife for chops, one large carving knife for cooked meats, one smaller one for the same purpose and one kitchen knife. It is always advisable to keep a few Fig. 156. Fig. 157, Fig. 158. Fig. 159. Fio. IIJU. Fig. 161. Fig. 162. ■well sharpened ones in reserve, either for carving or any other unforeseen occasion. Besides these there must be a channeled knife for turning vegetables and fruits. A knife for peeling and also a can-opener; it is most necessary to have a large and strong cleaver for splitting bones, also to be used instead of a mallet for beating meats to flatten ^^^K7?i\ them according to one's wants (Figs. 155 to 162). SUGAE DEEDGEE (Poudri^re). Fig. 163 represents a sugar dredger containing about a pint. It is to be filled three-quarters full with powdered sugar and is used for sweetening pastry, fritters, omelets, etc. Fig. 163. LEG OF MUTTON HANDLE (Manche a Gigot), Tliese handles are made of metal fitting on to the bone of a leg of mutton, lamb or ham; they assist the carver to turn around and cut the meat according to necessity. The old style ones are silver plated and screwed on to the bone, but the new style are made of steel and are fitted on by means of a rubber ring placed inside which grasps the bone tightly without breaking it (Fig. 164).

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 247. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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STRAINER (CHINESE), AND MIXING POT FOR THICKENING (Passoire Ohinois at M6kngeiir pour Liaisons). Fig. 170 represents a sauce strainer commonly called Chinese; they are made of tin or metallic tammy. It is necessary to have several sizes more or less fine; they are either pointed or Hat as shown in the design and are in constant use for sauces and gravies. Fig. 171 is a kind of pot containing a mi,xer. r\ This is to stir egg-yolks and cream together for pouring it into sauces and ragouts for thickening; this is found especially handy for Hollandaise •=■'»■ I'lGRIDIRON (Gril). Fig. 173 represents a thin wire double gridiron; it is useful for toasting bread, crackers, broiling oysters, tomatoes, and sliced potatoes. Stronger and thicker gridirons are used for meats and flsh, having just sufficient room to hold the articles.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 249. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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SOUriLE PAN, AND PIE DISH (Casserole h Souffle, et Plat I Tarte). These vessels are of plated ware or sterling silver, made in different shapes and different sizes; they are indispensable in a kitchen and are used principally for cooknig soufHes, but they can also be used for baking purposes, for poaching creams by bain marie and in fact for serving vegetables or garnishings on the table (Fig. 183). Fig. 183, Fig. 183. Pie Bisfi. — Made' of English china that can be placed in the oven without any danger of cracking; they are most useful. In these dishes one can cook meat, chicken, game or fish pies, fruit pies, or puddings, or creams, they can also be used for souffliSs. There is no end to their utility in a kitchen and there should always be plenty of different sizes. What makes them more useful and convenient is that they can very well be placed on the table with their contents as they were taken from the oven; for instance, anything baked, creams, puddings, etc. (Fig. 183).

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 251. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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together, tie with rows of strings, beginning on the feathered end and girding tightly; fasten at the other or upper end, tying the string firmly; now cut the lower end to equalize the quills; they do not last very long. Brushes can be purchased made of hair with a tin handle, much neater, stronger and easier to keep clean; these are shown in the Figs. 184 and 184a. OMELET, AND OYSTER STEW PAN (Poele I Omelette, et Casserole pomles Huitres). Omelet Fan. — A black, iron pan, polished on the inside. These pans are used principally for omelets; they should never be washed; when coated or burned on the inside, scrape with a flexible knife all that sticks to the bottom, heat well and then rub with a cloth and some salt until perfectly clean. The French omelet pans are the best, both for shape and strength (Fig. 18.5). Fig. 1^5. Fig. l.so. Oyster Steiv Pan.— This saucepan is made of various sizes in tin with a copper bottom. It is furnished with a rounded cover perforated in the center with several small holes. The handle is very long. This saucepan is used for oysters and their liquor placed on the hot fire and when the steam escapes through the holes then remove it at once (Fig. 186). SPOONS (Ouill^res). Fig. 187, represents four spoons, soup or table, dessert, tea and coffee. Tlie approximative liquid capacity is: six soup or tablespoonfuls of liquid make a gill or forty-eight a quart. Twelve dessertspoonfuls of liquid for a gill; eighteen teaspoonfuls and thirty-six coffeespoonfuls. For sugar it requires eight tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar for a pound, sixteen dessertspoonfuls, twenty-four teaspoonfuls and forty-eight coffeespoonfuls. For flour it takes ten tablepoonfuls for a pound, twenty dessertspoonfuls, thirty teaspoonfuls and sixty coffeespoonfuls.

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Various ways of obtaining weights and measures. Weight hij Quarts. — One quart of water weighs two pounds and four ounces; one quart of milk two pounds and an ounce and a half; cream two pounds and one ounce; oil one pound and fourteen ounces; melted butter the same weight as oil; powdered sugar one pound nine ounces; rice one pound three ounces; flour one pound two ounces; breadcrumbs eleven ounces; horseradish or cocoanut twelve ounces; wheaten grits or Indian meal fifteen ounces; oatmeal thirteen ounces; semolina one pound seven ounces. Weight by Handfuls. — A handful of sugar weighs six ounces; flour four ounces; bread-crumbs two ounces; rice three ounces; herbs, parsley, etc., one ounce. Weight by Coffeecups. — Six cupfuls of sugar weigh one pound; nine of flour one pound; eight of Indian meal, one pound; six of rice one pound. Ten black coffeecupfuls of water make one quart, water make one quart. Four breakfast cupfuls of water make one quart. Fig. 187. Six teacupfuls of EEFEIGEEATOR, ICE-BOX AND COLD EOOM (E6frig6rateur, Glacifere Timbre et Chamhre froide). These refrigerators arc to be kept full of ice so to reduce the temperature inwardly and to avoid inconvenience arising from the excessive heat of the atmosphere. A refrigerator as shown Fio. 188. in the accompanying design is all that is necessary for a restaurant, etc. At a third of its height arc placed wooden gratings to uphold the ice, underneath is to be found a sheet of zinc or galvanized.sheet iron with a small gutter, at the end, between this and the sheet of iron is a space of six inches. The bottom parts of these ice-boxes are used for keeping either beef palates,

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calf's heads?, sheep's trotters, croquette preparations of all kinds, etc.; each compartment should be entirely separate from one another, having a special one for fish, one for poultry, one for game, one for cold meats, one for garnishings, etc. The Ice box is simply a box of an oblong.shape sufficiently thick to be filled with a nonconducting material such as charcoal, sawdust, tow, or simply an hermetically empty space not to allow the air to pass through the box; they are lined inside with galvanized sheet iron or zinc. The cold room is of a more modern invention, the meats being hung up in the inside. Cooked meats, also different provisions requiring a cold temperature of forty-five to fifty degrees Fahrenheit, such as butter, milk or cream, rest on shelves or in drawers, without being in direct contact with the ice, for it is evident that the cold air surrounding these provisions does not contain the slightest moisture that might destroy their properties. Another advantage the cold room has is that a quantity of cold entrees or sweet dishes already decorated with the jellies that are to be served will keep in perfect condition for a few days, while those placed directly on the ice do not afford the same security; however, each one has its own peculiar advantages and one must not be sacrificed for the other, on the contrary in all large kitchens each one has its own place and both have become indispensable.

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slightly (colored, moisten with half a bottleful of white wine and two and a half quarts of broth, half a gill of brandy, salt and pepper. Cook all for fifteen minutes, then remove the meat from the shells, pound it to a paste, and dilute it with its own broth; strain through a sieve, and afterward through a tammy; mi.x in one quart of bechamel (No. 409}; warm up without boiling, and just when ready to serve, thicken the soup.with twelve raw egg-yolks diluted in a quart of cream, and when the soup thickens, incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of lobster butter (No..5S0). Put the following garnishing into a soup tureen, and pour the soup over. Remove the meat from the boiled lobster claws, cut the red part of it in slices an eighth of an inch thick, and from these punch out rounds three-quarters of an inch in diameter, using a column tube for the purpose: also have small, round quenelles, half an inch in diameter, made from the fillets of a pike or whiting in the shape of round beads. (208). BISQUE OP LOBSTEE A LA PORTLAND (Bisque de Homard a la Portland). Cut twelve pounds of lobster lengthwise in two, break the claws, sprinkle over some butter, and cook them on a baking-sheet in a hot oven for twenty-five minutes. Remove them, and suppress the largest shells, pound the meat with its equal quantity of plain boiled rice, seasoned with salt, pepper, and curry, and when all is well reduced to a paste, dilute it with broth; strain through a sieve and then a tammy, and warm up the soup without boiling; thicken it with twelve hard boiled egg-yolks pounded with four ounces of butter, and mi.x in also a pint of double cream, and serve as garnishing some mushrooms cut into fine Julienne and lobster quenelles. Put the soup into a tureen. Lobster Quenelles. — Cut one pound of cooked lobster meat in thin slices, add the coral and two ounces of butter; pound well and when reduced to a paste, take it from the mortar. Pound three quarters of a pound of panada, add gradually to it half a pound of butter, then the lobster paste, three eggs, one after the other, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and two tablespoons of Alleraande sauce, test and rectify if necessary (No. 60). Roll this forcemeat to use for lobster quenelles, or else fill some sheeps' casings with it to make lobster boudins. (209). BISQUE OR PUREE OP MUSSELS A LA CUTTING (Bisque 6u Puree de Moules a la

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 262. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Colbert. — Boil up one gill of meat glaze (No. 401) in a saucepan, remove it from the fire, and then incorporate into it four ounces of fresh butter, working them well together with an egg-whisk, until the butter is thoroughly melted; then add the juice of two lemons,.some grated nutmeg, and two tablespoonfuls of good sherry wine; strain through a tammy, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, and serve. Enylisli. — Put a.saucepan on the fire, containing two tabl('S|)oonfuls of Worcestershire sauce, and two of mushroom catsup, the same quantity of melted meat glaze (No. 401); take it off when it bubbles, then work slowly into it two ounces of anchovy butter, the juice of one lemon, and a little grated nutmeg; strain through a tammy and serve. With Tarrayon or Cherril. — Pour a gill of melted meat glaze (No. 401) into a saucepan; at the first boil take it off the fire, and whip in with it a quarter of a pound of butter divided into small pats; finish the sauce with the juice of two lemons, and half a spoonful of tarragon leaves, or else a spoonful of chervil leaves, one or the other finely cut up. (452). CEAB SAUCE (Sauce aux Crabes), Have a pint of wliite sauce (No..563), in a saucepan, add to it a pinch of cayenne pepper and the same quantity of ground mace, also two ounces of crab meat cut in dice, or if possible some oyster crabs blanched in their own oyster juice, and drained. (453). CEAWnSH SAUCE (Sauce aux Ecrevisses). Fry in two ounces of butter, one ounce of carrots, one ounce of celery root, one ounce of onions, and one ounce of shallot, a few parsley leaves, thyme, one bay leaf, and one clove of garlic. Moisten with half a bottleful of white wine, and let the whole cook for ten minutes, adding to it twenty-four well washed crawfish, a little salt and mignonette. Cook.all together for five minutes, while tossing them up fre(|\iently, then take out the crawfish and let the stock settle; pour off gently the top, straining it through a very fine sieve; then reduce it to half and add a pint of veloute sauce (No. 415) and half a pint of white wine, and reduce it once more. Shell the crawfish, take the meat from the tails and l.ay them on one side; pound the remainder with five ounces of butter, heat it, and then pass it through a sieve into a bowl filled with ice water; lift up the butter, wipe it, and incorporate this butter into the sauce; color it with orchanet or else vegetable carmine, and strain it through a sieve. Add the crawfish meat cut in small dice to the sauce, and serve at once. (454). CEEAM SAUCE (Sauce I la Cremel Put into a small.saucepan, one pint of bechamel (No. 409), reduce it with two gills of cream; when ready, incorporate into it a quarter of a pound of fresh butter; season with salt and a dash of cayenne pepper. 303 THE EPICURKAJSJ. (455). CUREANT SAUCE, WITH EED WINE, POET WINE, OALIFOENIA WINE, WHITE WINE AND WHITE GUEEANTS (Sauce Groseilles au vin de Bordeaux, au vin de Porto, au vin de Galifornie, au vin Blanc et aux Groseilles Blanches). Plain currant jelly without being heated may be served with canvasback duck and saddle of venison. But if some people prefer sauce, the following will be found good: Currant Sauce with Red Bordeaux Wine. — Put half a bottle of Bordeaux wine into a saucepan on the fire, and when the wine begins to simmer take it off, and put into it, to infuse, ten cloves, the peel of r. lemon and a bit of cinnamon; leave them in for twenty minutes, and then add to it half a pound of currant jelly and two ounces of sugar, more or less, according to taste; dissolve and mix well, and when thoroughly melted, strain the sauce through a sieve and serve it hot. Currant Sauce icith Port Wine. — Put half a pound of currant jelly in a saucepan on the fire, dilute it with half a bottleful of port wine and one pint of brown espagnole sauce (No. 414), and when well dissolved strain through a sieve and serve hot. Cttrrant Sauce with California Wine. — Melt half a pound of currant jelly with half a pint of red California wine, and when well dissolved strain it through a tammy and serve hot. Currant Sauce with White Wine. — Made with half a pound of currant jelly, a pinch of cinnamon, the same of ground cloves, half a bottle of white wine, and a pint of veloute (No. 415), besides the pulp of one lemon; strain through a sieve and.serve hot. White Currant Sauce. — Blanch and strain a pint of picked white currants, mix in with them half a pound of apple with orange jelly, the juice of two lemons and half a pint of veloute (No. 415). Dissolve with half a pint of white wine; strain through a tammy and serve hot. • (456\ CUEEY SAUCES, INDIAN AND WITH APPLES (Sauces au Karl, a ITndienne et aux

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 317. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(565). BLACK BUTTER (Beurre Noir). This butter is used for eggs, brains or fish. Put four ounces of butter in an omelet pan over a slow fire, and when it falls after raising, skim it off, and set it rgain on the fire; as soon as it is black, but not burned, season it with salt and mignonette. Strain it through a fine strainer over the eggs, etc. Throw a dash of vinegar in a hot pan, and pour it over the eggs through a fine strainer. (566). MELTED BUTTER (Beuree Eondit). Set four ounces of butter in a saucepan, season it with salt, pepper, mignonette, and the juice of a lemon; let it melt sutficieutly to liquify it, or else melt it thoroughly, and let it settle, pouring off the top carefully, refraining from disturbing the.sediment at the bottom. (567). HAZEL-NUT BUTTER (Beurre Noisette). Place four ounces of butter in a pan on the fire, and as soon as the froth falls, skim it carefully, and leave it on the fire until it begins to brown slightly, then let it settle and pour off the clear jiart; sea.son with salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, and throw this over fish or any other article, after straining it through a fine strainer.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 336. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Pick one pound of \^te currants from their stalks, or pick off the stems from one pound of gooseberries; blanch either one or the other, aud then drain them on a sieve. Have cooked h;ilf a pound of.sugar to the small crack, lay in the currants, let it boil up once, and then pour it into glasses to serve cold with meats, game or poultry. (601). CUREANT SAUCE WITH OEANGE (Sauce aux Groseilles a I'Orange). This is prepared witli currant jelly diluted with port wine; add to it the rind of one orange grated on sugar and pressetl through a sieve. Peel another orange and after shredding the peel very finely cook it in water, drain and then add it to the sauce, with the juice of the two oranges. (602). riNE HERBS SAUCE AND SHALLOTS WITH OIL (Sauce aux Pines Herbes, et aux

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 340. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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This sauce is prepared with chervil, parsley, chives, and small squares of blanched shallots, also.some tarragon leaves. Dilute a little mustard in oil and vinegar, season well, and stir in the jibove chopped fine herbs. Shallots with fine herbs and oil is made by mixing in with fine herbs, and oil is made by mixing in with one gill of vinegar, some salt, pepper, and two gills of sweet oil, chopped and blanched shallots, choi)ped tarragon and English mustard. (603). GREEN SAUCE (Sauce Verte). Wash some parsley leaves, chervil, tarragon, and burnet; plunge them into boiling water in a copper vessel, and blanch them for three minutes: drain, press out all the liquid, and then pound the herbs in a small mortar with a few chives added; press them through a sieve, and put into the same mortar a few hard boiled egg-yolks and some anchovy fillets; pound them also, and stir in gradually the green puree; dilute the preparation with some oil, vinegar and mustard, and finish the sauce with a spoonful of finely chopped pickled gherkins. (604), GREEN SPANISH SAUCE (Sauce Espagnole Verte). Pound to a paste one ounce of chervil and one ounce of parsley: add to it four ounces of bread-crumbs soaked in water and then squeezed out, six anchovy fillets, two ounces of choi^ped pickled gherkins, two ounces of capers, and one small chopped ftp onion; pound well the whole and then rub it through a sieve into a bowl, beat it well with some sweet oil, the same as for a mayonnaise, adding salt, pepper, and spinach green to color; soften the sauce with a little water. (605), HORSERADISH AND CREAM SAUCE, AND WITH OIL (Sauce Raifort a la CrSrne, et ^

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 341. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Blanch, drain and wipe thirty-six oysters; reduce an allemande sauce (No. 407). with the oyster liquor, adding two tablespoonfuls of cooked tine herbs, let get cold and coat the oysters with it, leave them till very cold, and then dip them into eggs and fry them a fine golden color. For mussels proceed the same, only first removing the black piece adhering to them; miits are to be cooked also the same. (699). OYSTER GARNISHING FOR SHELLS AND FOR PATTIES WITH MUSHROOMS (Garniture d'Huitres pour Ooquilles et pour Bouch^es aux Champignons). The first step to take is to open the oysters, detach them from their shells, and poach them in their own juice, after this is done, drain them off. They can be bread-crumbed and baked in their own shells if needed whole, or in small scollop shells if they are in salpicon (No. 165), or else they are used to gai-nish bouchees. To prepare them for the patties proceed as follows: Blanch thirty-twomedium sized oy.sters in their own juice in a saucepan, drain and dry them on a napkin. Fry a finely chopped shallot in two ounces of butter, moisten with the oyster Juice, add a pint of bechamel sauce (No. 409), reduce and then strain the whole through a tammy (No. 159), cut the oysters into small squares and fry them in two ounces of butter over a brisk fire, and add them to the prepared bechamel, also two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms. (700). PALATE OF BEEF GARNISHING A LA MANCELLE IN OASES (Garniture de Palais de

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 358. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Prepare the quenelles either v^'ith veal (No. 85) pike (No. 83) or else of chicken godiveau (No. 83), young rabbit or any other game. Divide it into several parts, then roll into strings three-quarters of an inch thick on to a table dredged with flour and cut them into inch lengths, roll and lengthen to the shape of a quenelle an inch and a half long. Poach in boiling, salted water. Veal godiveau quenelles are covered with Madeira Spinish sauce (No. 414), those of pike with bechamel (No. 409), those of chicken with supreme (No. 547) and those of game with demi-glaze (No. 413). (736). KAMISOLLE GARNISHING (Garniture de Eamisolles). Soak fourteen ounces of fresh bread-crumbs in some milk for one-half hour, then extract well all the liquid. Remove the skin from eight ounces of cooked chicken meat, eight ounces of raw chicken livers and three ounces of truffles; all being finely chopped up. Fry in one ounce of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped shallots or onions, before they attain a color, add to them the raw chicken livers and fry both together, then throw in the chicken and truffles, seasoning with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and lastly add the bread-crumbs, let it all get very hot, then cool it off slightly and beat in six egg-yolks. Lay this preparation between two pancakes, cut into desirable pieces, dip them each in beaten egg, roll in bread-crumbs and fry. A Madeira sauce (No. 492; accompanies this garnishing. (737). EIOE GAENISHING INDIAN STYLE AND WITH BUTT.ire de Eiz \ I'lndienne et au Beurre), Rice makes an excellent garnishing, and is adapted for '.nany meats, fish, iwultry and game. Fat rice is served with poultry, and is merely •. in chicken broth or soup stock (No. 194a),.sliglitly fat; it.should be rather more cor a otherwise, but at the same time tender or soft; it is finished with a little nutmeg. iraes with a handful of grated parmesan cheese. GS-ARJSriSHINaS. 349 Rice, Indian Style, is served likewise as a garnishing for chicken or veal, and is prepared with fine Indian rice, its grains being long, white and whole; in case none of this can be procured, then take Carolina rice. Plunge it into a bountiful supply of boiling water after picking and washing it, and as soon as it no longer cracks between the teeth, then drain it through a colander, and wash it off with salted tepid water, spi-ead it over a large sieve, cover with a cloth, and leave it to dry for a few moments at the oven door, then dress it in a vegetable dish, cover and serve. Rice with Butter. — Blanch some rice for five or six minutes, drain and wash it off with tepid water, then leave it to dry on a cloth. Put two spoonfuls of chopped onion into a saucepan, leave it to fry iu some butter, and then add to it the rice; when it is very hot, moisten with white stock (No. 194a), and leave it to finish cooking on a good fire, keeping it slightly firm, set it to smother for a few moments at the oven door, then remove it, and beat up into it with a fork, a good sized piece of butter. Dress the rice in a vegetable dish, cover it with a small napkin previously dampened in hot water, put the cover on the dish and serve. (738). EICHELIEU GARNISHING, ANOIENT AND MODERN (Garniture Richelieu, Ancienne et

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 364. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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For Celery Stalks. — Have some good heads seven inches long; remove the outer leaves until the the fine, tender, yellow ones are reached, then clean them by cutting off all the hard parts; split the stalks into four, and make a few slight incisions on their length; throw them at once into cold water, and all those parts that are notched will curl outward, giving the celery a beautiful appearance. They are either served in side dishes or else in high glass stands. For Celery, Fennel, Celery Hearts. — Pare these well, wipe them on a cloth, and lay them on side di.shes; serve at the same time, anchovies pounded and pressed through a sieve diluted with warm oil. English people eat celery with the cheese, the Italians eat fennel at the end of the repast. For Celery Knobs, with Vinaigrette Mayonnaise. — For vinaigrette, wash the knob, and put it to cook in boiling, salted water, refresh it, and cut it up into slices, from these remove some round pieces with a vegetable cutter one and three-quarters to two inches in diameter, and lay them on a deep dish to marinate in oil, vinegar, salt, and pepper. Two hours later, drain them off, and mix them in some mayonnaise; lay them in a line on a side dish and surround them with anchovy fillets. Decorate with jjounded hard boiled egg-yolks rubbed through a sieve, mixing in half the same quautity of mayonnai.se, and push this through a cornet; lay tarragon leaves on the outside, and throw over some finely chopped chervil. If very tender cut in thin slices after being peeled; season with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar, and cover with a mayonnaise sauce. (780). CHEESE CRUSTS (Croutes au Iromage). Cut slices of bread three-eighths of an inch thick, three and a half inches long, and one and three-quarters inch wide; fry them on one side only in butter, drain, and let get cold. Spread them over with fresh butter on the side they were not fried, mixing in with it some pepper and mustard. Cover the butter with slices of Chedder, Swiss, or Chestershire cheese, place on top another piece of buttered bread, and serve on folded napkins. (781), CLAMS OE EAW OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL (Luoines Orangees ou Huitres sur

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 374. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Sliced Fresh Cucumbers. — If the cucumbers be green, small and seedless, peel and cut off the ends; then pare the inside into thin slices. If large divide them into two or four parts lengthwise before slicing; in either case they should macerate for fifteen minutes, sprinkled over with salt; when the}' have thrown oft' the water, drain and season with pepper or mignonette, vinegar, oil and chopped parsley; the same quantity of finely chopped onions may also be added. Another iray of preparing them is to peel and slice them simply, then season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, and serve on side dishes. Cucumbers in Fillets. — Peel a cucumber and cut it crosswise into quarter inch lengths, roll each piece separately to form a long, thin ribbon and season all of these with salt, mignonette, pepper, oil and vinegar. Roll them up into cork-shaped pieces and mince them across so as to obtain long fillets, then serve on a side dish, pouring more oil and vinegar over. Salted Russian Style. — (Agoursis). Dress them on side dishes in their own brine. (784). EGGS, BUSTARD, PLOVER AND SEA-GULL ((Eufs de Vamieaux, de Pluviers et de

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 375. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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The hors-d'oeuvre is composed of certain dishes served after the soup, somewhat taking the place of those formerly called " flying dishes," for they did not appear on the table, but were passed directly to the guests. (835). ANCHOVY FRITTERS (Beignets d'Anchois). Prepare some very thin pancakes, cut them into narrow strijis, three-quarters of an inch wide, by three inches long, cover them with a layer of chicken quenelle forcemeat (No. 89), with raw tine herbs added, set on top half of a well cleaned anchovy, then roll them over, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs, and fry to a fine color. The anchovy fillets may be prepari^d by arranging them crown-shaped and filling the centers with a quenelle, then dipping them in frying paste to cover well, and fry them immediately in frying fat over a hot fire, drain, wipe and salt. Dress the fritters on folded napkins and garnish the tops with a bunch of fried parsley. (836). ATTEREAUX OF BEEF PALATE (Attereaux de Palais de Boeuf). Obtain some round tin cases, two and one-quarter inches deep, the bottom being one and three-eighths inches in diameter, while the top is an inch and five-eighths; the bottom must be perforated with a hole so as to allow the skewer to pass through and fasten on to a piece of bread. Cut some rounds of well pressed beef palate, one inch and a quarter in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch in thickness; have FiGTaM. as many pieces of truffles and mushrooms, both of tliem an eighth of an inch thick, and seven-eighths of an inch in diameter. Reduce an allemande sauce (No. 4071, with some jelly. Run on to small silver skewers, first a piece of palate, then alternate with a piece of mushroom, then another round of palate and truffle; set each skewer into a round ease, and fill them up with the partly cold prepared sauce; when cold, unmold by dipping in hot water, dip in beaten eggs, then roll them in bread-crumbs, and fry to a fine color; serve on folded napkins. (837). ATTEREAUX OF CHICKEN A LA D'ANTIN (Att&eaux de Poulet a la d'Antin). Braise the chickens and leave them to cool in their stock; remove the fillets, pare them of their fat, and take away all the skin and bones; cut them up into three-sixteenths of an inch thick slices, and then into one inch squares. Cut up some mushrooms the same size and thickness, and as much truffles; put all of these in a dish and cover with allemande sauce (No. 407), having it well reduced; mix into this sauce some chervil chopped finely and cooked colorless in butter, also some fresh mushrooms, truffles, and a little chopped parsley and tan-agon. When the ingredients are almost cold, thread first a square of chicken, then one of mushroom, and one of truffle, cover evenly with the remainder of the sauce, having it nearly cold; let cool off completely, pare them of uniform shape then roll in bread-crumbs, dip in beaten egg smoothing the bread-crumbs neatly with the blade of a knife, and fry in hot trying fat until tney attain a fine color, and the heat has penetrated them throughout. Dress on a folded napkin with fried parsley on top. (838). ATTEREAUX OF FAT LIVERS (Att6reaux de Foies-Gras). Cook some foies-gr.as cut into one-inch squares and three-eighths of an inch thick pieces, lay them in a vessel, and add an equal quantity of the same sized squares of cooked red beef tongue; season with paprika, meat glaze (No. 403), and finely chopped truffles; sprinkle over a few spoonfuls of Villeroi sauce (No. 560), suflfloient to cover, and run through these pieces of liver and tongue small wooden or metal skewers; when cold pare and roll them in bread-crumbs, dip in beaten eggs, and bread-crumb them once more, smoothing the bread-crumbs, then plunge them into hot frying fat and fry them a fine color; dress on folded napkins and surround with slices of lemon.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 384. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Cut the meat from roasted grouse into three-sixteenth inch squares removing all the skin, bones and nerves; cut the same quantity of cooked mushrooms the same size; mingle the two with some well reduced Madeira sauce (No. 493), season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, let boil up once, then pour it into a vessel to incorporate in a little fresh butter: let this preparation get cool. Divide it into equal parts and shape each one into a cylindrical croquette, two inches long by one inch in diamater, dip in beaten eggs, roll in bread-crumbs and fry to a fine golden brown, drain, wipe and dress on folded napkins; serve separately a soubise sauce (No. 543), with tomato sauce (No. 549) added. (887). GUINEA FOWL OR PULLET OEOQUETTES IN SUEPEISE (Croquettes de Pintade ou Poularde en Surprise), Have one pound of the white meat from a roasted Guinea fowl; suppress all the fatand nerves, and cut it up into small three-sixteenth inch squares; add to these a quarter of a pound of truffles cut the same size, and put all into a pint and a half of a well buttered, cold supreme sauce (No. 547). Form the preparation into balls an inch and three-quarter in diameter, flatten them down to half an inch in thickness, and remove the center of each with a half inch tube; fill this empty space witli a foies-gras ball, then dip them into beaten eggs and roll them in bread-crumbs, then fry them till a nice color. Serve on folded napkins, garnished with fried parsley. (888). LAMB OEOQUETTES A LA DE EIVAS (Croquettes d'Agneau a la de Eivas). Take a pound of lean nieat, free of nerves, from a tenderloin or leg of lamb, half a pound of mushrooms, and a quarter of a pound of red beef tongue; mingle these well with a pint of veloute (No. 415), and half a pint of fine tomato puree (No. 780); reduce well together, season, and set it aside to get cold; finish precisely the same as sweetbread croquettes (No. S93). (889). PAETEIDGE OEOQUETTES WITH GAME FUMET (Croquettes de Perdreaux au Fumet de

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 394. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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There are many kinds of these bivalves, but these of vrhich we speak are greatly appreciated as an article of food. Small ones an inch to an inch and three-quarters in diameter are served raw, in the months of May, June, July and August, entirely replacing the oyster. Little neck clams are the most remarkable of their kind, their principal characteristic being the uniting to the hinge of cardinal and lateral teeth; beside these they possess three other teeth, two being diverging. They are far preferable to the large clams for all culinary [ireparations, being more tender, of Fig. 2G6. a finer flavor and their taste less strong tliau the others. • (994). OLAMS, PHILADELPHIA STYLE (Lucines Orangees a la Philadelphie), Procure two dozen medium sized clams; poach them in their own juice with a.s much water, and as soon as they are firm to the touch, drain them off. Fry two finely cut-up shallots in butter without letting them attain color, add the clams, and heat them with a little sherry and brandy, seasoning with mignonette and a very little salt; just when prepared to serve thicken the gravy with cream, egg-yolks and a small quantity of l)utter. Serve the clams in a vegetable or deep di.sh, and lay on top and around some small round three-quarters of an inch rice croquettes. (995). OLAMS A LA POULETTE (Luciues Orangees a la Poulette). Poach twenty-four clams, suppressing the hard parts, put them into a sautoir with a pint of poulette sauce (No. 527) and heat them thoroughly; season with pepper, mignonette, nutmeg and lemon juice, and thicken the whole with egg-yolks and fresh butter, adding chopped parsley. (996). OLAM PANCAKES AND FRITTERS (Orepes «t Beignets de Lucines Orangees). Break two whole eggs into a bowl, and add a pinch of white pepper; beat them thoroughly with a tablespoonful of flour and a tablespoonful of cream; stir briskly, and put into the mi.xture ten medium sized raw clams chopped up very fine, and with this preparation make some rather thick pancakes. Fritters. — Place in a saucepan one gill of milk, half an ounce of butter, some cayenne pepper and nutmeg; boil the whole and add three ounces of flour; dry the pa.ste, then remove it from the fire, incorporating slowly into it two whole eggs, and finish with four spoonfuls of double cream; now add to the paste six ounces of small sized clams, drained and chopped; mix well and then take up some of the preparation with a spoon held in the right hand and using the first finger of the left hand, detach it from the spoon, and let it fall into hot frying fat; when done, drain and range the fritters on napkins. (997). STUriED CLAMS (Lucines Orangfes Parcies), Fry colorless two ounces of finely chopped onions in two ounces of butter, dredge over two spoonfuls of flour, stir well, then add the liquor from ten raw clams, two ounces of chopped mushrooms, and one gill of white wine; boil up the whole, skim off the foam arising to the top, and reduce to half, seasoning with red pepper and nutmeg. Chop up the raw clams, and.set them into the prepared sauce; place it on a brisk tire and stir steadily, and when the clams are poached, a<ld some chopped par.sley, and thicken with egg-yolks and cream. Lay this preparation aside for further use, but if it is to be used at once, fill up some well rounded buttered clam shells, dust over with bread-crumbs and lay a small pat of butter on top of each; place them on a baking pan in the oven to heat and color nicely, then arrange them crown-shaped on a folded napkin, garnishing the center with very green parsley branches. (401) 40a THK EPICUREAN.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 417. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Drain some medium sized soft clams; immerse them in milk, drain them once more, then roll them in flour and fry. After being rolled in the flour, they may be dipped in beaten eggs, then in bread-crumbs and fried until a fine color is assumed; dress them on a napkin, garnishing with fried (999). SOFT OLAMS ON SKEWERS OR HATELETS (Lucines Papillons en Brochette ou Hatelets). Run some silver skewers through the soft clams, alternating each piece with a three-quarters of an inch square of lean, unsmoked bacon; dip the whole into melted butter, and roll them in breadcrumbs, broil them over a slow Are, and when done dress on a hot dish and cover with maitre-d'hotel butter (No. 581). They may be prepared exactly the same only omitting the bread-crumbs. (1000) SOFT CLAMS A LA NEWBERG (Lucines Papillons k la Newberg). Warm in a sautoire two ounces of butter, add to it one dozen very fresh soft clams, a little salt, black and cayenne pepper, boil for a few minutes, moving them with care so as to avoid breaking them, moisten with a gill of Madeira and a little veloute sauce (No. 415), add two egg-yolks and a little cream, also a little butter. Warm without boiling, and serve.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 418. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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A species of amphibious crustacean, oblong and wide or broad according to its kind; there is the sea, the fresh water, and the land crab. Generally the tail is bent under the belly, and the head not separated from the body. The body is covered with a hard shell frequently blackish in color; the meat is difficult to digest. The ordinary crabs that are used in New York, either hard or soft shelled are sea crabs. (1001). HARD SHELL CEABS BAKED ON A DISH Fig. 268. (Orabes Dm's au Gratin dans un Plat). After some large crabs have been cooked in a court bouillon, as for No. 1002, pick out all their meat, keeping it as whole as possible; put it into a sautoir with some allemande sauce (No. 407), and sliced mu.shrooms, also chopped par.sley; mi.x well. Butter a silver dish, besprinkle it with bread-crumbs, and fill with the crab preparation, dredge In-ead-crumbs fried in butter on top, and lay the dish in the oven; when nicely browned, serve on a folded napkin. (1002). HAED SHELL OEABS, IN COUET BOUILLON (Orabes Durs au Court Bouillon). Soak the crabs for a quarter of an hour in cold water containing a handful of salt; wash them nicely. Fry in butter some minced carrots, onions, and celery, with pepper-corns, thyme, bay leaf, and branches of parsley. Moisten with white wine and broth, throw in the crabs, and let boil for fifteen minutes, then dress them on a napkin and range branches of parsley around; pour the top of the stock from its sediment, reduce it with velout6 sauce (No. 415), when ready to serve, work In some fine butter, and serve it separately. (1003). HARD SHELL CEABS, STUFrED, CAEOLINA STYLE (Orabes Durs Parois a la Caroline). Fry colorless in butter some finely choppped onioDs; sprinkle over a little rice flour, fry again for a fe'.v minutes and moisten with milk; season Avith salt, red pepper, nutmeg, thyme, and powdered basil; add the crab meat, and half of its quantity of rice previously boiled in plenty of water, "Creole rice" (No. 1351); fill some clean crab shells with this preparation, until they are quite full and dome-shaped; dredge over with bread-crumbs, besprinkle with butter and brown in a hot oven, or the preparation may be dipped in beaten eggs, rolled in bread-crumbs and fried in hot fat. (1004). HARD SHELL GRABS, STUFFED WITH MUSHROOMS AND DEVILED (Orabes Dins Farcis aux Champignons et a la Diable). To obtain one pound of crab meat it is necessary to have twenty crabs; soak them for a quarter of an hour in water with a handful of salt added, wash them and boil for fifteen minutes; let get cold and remove the shells which are to be well washed and dried. Take off all the small legs and the lungs; wash the crabs singly, and pick out all the meat obtainable; chop up either two onions or one ounce of shallot for every pound of crab meat; fry them colorless in butter; add a quart of bechamel (No. 409) reduced with cream, the crab meat, salt, red pepper and nutmeg; do not have the preparation too soft, and with it fill the shells dome-shaped, about four ounces in each; dip them entirely into bread-crumbs, sprinkle over melted butter, and lay them on tin rings to avoid the crabs touching the bottom of the pan; brown in a hot oven, and dress on napkins with pansley around. With Mushrooms. — Prepare the crabs as the above. Fry a little shallot in butter, rai.x in as much flour as the butter can absorb and cook to obtain a light rou.x; moisten this with half cream and half milk, seasoning properly, then add the crab meat and half the same quantity of mushrooms cut in small three-si.xteenths of an inch squares; boil up once; set it in a vessel and use this preparation for stuffing the crabs; finish and serve the same sauce as with the other crabs. This cream sauce can be replaced by reduced veloute (No. 413) and thickened whith egg-yolks and Deviled and Stuffed. — The crabs are to be prepared as above. Before sprinkling with crumbs, cover the top of the crab preparation with mustard; cover with bread-crumbs, and sjjrinkle butter on top; brown in a hot oven, and dress on napkins, garnishing with green parsley. (10051, OYSTER CRABS FRIED A LA NEWBERG OR A LA SALAMANDER (Crabes d'Huitrcs

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 418. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Oyster crabs are generally found in great quantities the Virguna oysters. Fried. — Drain and dip the crabs in milk, roll them in cracker-dust, and to.ss them in a coarse sieve to remove the surplus cracker, then fry thom in very hot, fresh lard. Butter some channeled oval tartlet molds three and seven-eighths inches Ijy two and three-eighths inches wide, line them with a very thin puff paste made from parings, and till up the insides with fine sheets of buttered paper and rice; cook them in a hot oven, empty tliem well of the paper and rice, and finish by filling them with as many of the fried crabs as they will hold, dress them on folded napkins and serve them while still very hot. The scarcity of these crabs bring their price as high as two dollars and a half a pound. Oi/.ster Crabs a la Newberg. — Put some oyster crabs in a sautoire with a little butter, salt, and red pepper; toss them well and moisten with a little cream; remove from the fire at the first boil, thicken with raw egg-yolks diluted in cream, pour over a little good Madeira wine and ^■1 la Salamander. — Wash some medium sized prettily shaped deep oyster shells; set them on a very straight Isaking sheet. Drain very fresh oyster crabs, season them with salt, black and red pepper, and fill the shells full of these; strew over bread-crumbs, and grated parmesan cheese, besprinkle with butter, and brown in a quick oven, serve the shells as soon as they are done. (These crabs should be put in the shells without any sauce.) (1006), SOFT SHELL CRABS, BROILED, RAVI60TE BUTTER, FRIED, SAUTED IN BUTTER ■(Orabes Moux Grilles, Beurre Ravigote, Frits, Sautes au Beurre). Wash the crabs, being careful to pick off all the seaweed, and pull out the lungs; wipe dry. Lay them on a double broiler, salt over and baste with butter, broil them on a slow fire, and when ■done, dress on a hot dish and cover with ravigote butter (No. 583J. Fried. —Wash the crabs, remove the lungs from both sides and dip into milk, then roll in flour and fry in plenty of very hot frying fat. When of a fine color, drain and dress on a folded napkin, and on top arrange a bunch of fried parsley. Sauted in Butter. — After the crabs have been well washed, remove the lungs from each side, roll them in flour, and.saute thera in very hot purified butter (No. 16); when done and of a fine color, dress and to the butter in which they were cooked, add some lemon juice; strain this butter through a strainer over the crabs, and strew chopped parsley on them.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 419. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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A shelled snail. The snails intended for eating are those that feed on aromatic plants. They are nourishing, but difficult to digest, are unsuitable for weak stomachs, and always require to be well seasoned. Broths are made from snails and are found to be Tery soothing for any irritability of the stomach. (1013). EDIBLE SNAILS, TO PREPARE (Escargots, Preparation). Should the snails be taken from grape vines, either in the spring time or autumn, they must be put into a cage, and starved for eight days. fig. 2ro. If they be purchased in the winter in the markets, they are then closed and ready to cook; in the latter case, wash them well m tepid water to break the openings and remove the glue, then put them into a vessel with fresh water and salt, and let them 40(i THK EPICUREAN. disgorge for twelve hours (the vessel to be covered with a grater to prevent the snails escaping): afterward wash them again in several waters. Put the snails into a stock pot with water and a pinch of potash; cook until the meats can be removed from the shells — half an hour will suffice for this, then drain and pick them out of the shells. Wash the meats in several waters, suppressing the green vein found in the thinnest part of the snail, then range them in a small earthen pot lined with fat pork; add an onion, a bunch of aromatic herbs, a clove of garlic, a few spoonfuls of brandy, and moisten to their heighth with broth and white wine; close the pot, fasten the cover down with paste, and let cook over a slow fire or gas stove for six hours. When the snails are well done remove, and let them cool off in their own broth. Wash well the shells and let them dry before (1014). EDIBLE SNAILS, BOEDELAISE AND SAINTONGE tEsoargots a la Bordelaise et a la Saintonge). Bordelaise. — Cook the snails as explained in No. 1013; fry in butter some onions, carrots and celery root; cut in three-eights of an inch squares, sprinkle over some flour, and moisten with white wine and fish stock (No. 195), add the cooked snails without the shells, and when hot, thicken with kneaded butter and finish with fine herbs and lemon juice. A la Saintonye. — (Small snails.) After they are cooked as above, put them back into their shells, and fry them in butter, shells and all, adding a crushed and chopped clove of garlic, salt and pepper; moisten with white wine, thicken witli an allemande sauce (No. 407), bread-crumbs, butter and parsley. (1015). EDIBLE SNAILS A LA BOURGUIGNONNE (Escargots \ la Bourguignonne), After the snails have been prepared according to No. 1013 put a little clear gravy (No. 404) into each shell, then one or two snails from which suppress the thin and pointed end; close the opening with a thick layer of fresh butter, mixing in with it salt, black pepper, parsl ey and chives both chopped," lemon juice and a little fresh bread-crumbs. Arrange the shells on a metal dish provided with a grater for the purpose of upholding tlie snails, let cook for a few moments and serve them very hot accompanied with a silver skewer to remove the snail from its shell. Metal or earthen dishes are expressly made having the bottom indented to receive the snails. (1016). EDIBLE SNAILS, PEOVENgAL, AND WITH PROVENgAL BUTTER (Escargots a la

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 421. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Prepare and cook the snails as for No. 1013, fry in oil without browning, some shallots, mushrooms, garlic, and parsley, all to be finely chopped and seasoned with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, add a little flour, stir well and moisten with white wine and fish stock (No. 19.5), reduce thoroughly to the consistency of a sauce. Fill the shells by putting into each one, one or two snails according to their size, finish filling with the sauce, and cover with bread-crumbs, besprinkle with butter, and heat them in a hot oven. With Provengal Butte?: — Cook and prepare the snails as for No. 1013, set at the bottom of each shell a little of the following butter: Stir into some butter finely chopped parsley, onions, and crushed garlic, and finely cut up thyme and bay leaf, season with salt, black and red pepper, pound and press through a sieve. Set the snails on this butter and finish filling the shells with the same and some fresh bread-crumljs, range tlieni on a dish, and place them in the hot oven; serve when the butter boils in the shell. Accompany these snails with a small silver pick to remove the in sides. MOLLUSKS AND CRTJSTACEAISrS. 407

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 422. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Open eight or ten large, fresh St. Jacques sliells (Fig. 277 — large species of scallops), detach the meats, also the white and red milts, poach with a little white wine, drain and cut them into dice pieces; keep this salpicon aside. Fry.some chopped onions and shallots in butter, add raw mushrooms cut in small squares and let cook until they have reduced their moisture, then put in the prepared salpicon five or si.\ minutes later. Season the stew, tliickening with freshly reduced liechanicl (No. 409), boil again for a few moments without ceasing to stir; it should now be quite consistent; finish off of the fire with a dash of cayenne pepper, a piece of fresh butter and a piece of red butter (No. 580). Take the stew up with a spoon and fill the shells, bestrew the preparation with bread-crumbs, sprinkled over with melted butter and then bake in a moderate oven for ten minutes, take out and dress.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 435. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(1191). FRESH MACKEREL, BONNEFOY-FILLETS (Filets de Maquereau Frais a la Boimefoy). Cut off the head and thin tail part of three or four fresh and clean mackerel; detach the fillets, season, roll in flour and cook them in clarified butter, turning tliem when done over on one side. Put into a small saucepan one gill of melted glaze (No. 399 ) and four to five.spoonfuls of thickened tomato sauce (No. 5-19) and a teaspoonful of chopped shallot cooked in butter; let the sauce boil, then remove it toone side to finish with butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice. Drain the fillets, dress them on a dish and cover with the sauce; serve at the same time small potato balls plainly cooked in salted water and steamed for five or six minutes. (1192). FRESH MACKEREL IN PAPERS, MEPHISTO (Maquereau Frais en Papillotes, Mephisto). Split the mackerel lengthwise in two; suppress the middle bone, pare, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, then coat the surface with oil and broil over a slow fire (the milts and roe to be cooked apart in the oven). Cut some sheets of paper into long hearts, oil them over and lay on one of their sides a little deviled sauce (No. 459), on top range the fish with either the milts or roe and cover over with more of the sauce; fold the paper over and twist it well around so as to enclose the fish hermetically; range them on the same dish intended for the table, pour over a little oil and lay them in a hot oven. When the paper has swollen and is a fine color, place the dish on top of another and serve. (1193). FRESH MACKEREL, MAITRE D'HOTEL (Maquereau Frais, Maitre d'Hotel). Split very fresh and well cleansed mackerel lengthwise through the back; remove the dorsal l)one, season with salt, and roll in melted butter, or else in oil; broil them for fifteen to twenty minutes on a slow fire turning them and brushing over with a brush dipped in butter or oil. Dress them on a vei-y hot dish and cover with a layer of maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581). After rolling them in melted butter or oil, they may be dipped in bread-crumbs. (1194). FRESH MACKEREL, WITH WHITE PIQUANTE SAUCE (Maquereau Frais a la Sauce

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 462. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Suppress the heads and the thin tail parts of four fresh, well cleansed mackerel; remove the skins and pare the meat into half hearts, lay these on a dish, season with salt, pepper, thyme, bay leaf, cut up onions, oil and lemon juiee, turning tliem over at intervals. One hour later take the pieces from their pickle, dip them in flour and cook in clarified butter; when done and of a fine color, drain and dress them either in a straight row or in a circle on a dish and pour around a white sharp (piquante) sauce (No. 538). (1195). MACKEREL, CREAM HORSERADISH SAUCE-SALT AND SMOKED (Maquereau Sal6 et

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 462. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Soak salt mackerel for twelve hours, changing the water several times; cook the fish in an abundance of water into which has been added a dash of vinegar, thyme, bay leaf, branches of parsley, and sliced onions; remove the saucepan at the first boil, and leave the fish in the water without allowing it to boil any more for fifteen minutes; drain, dress the mackerel on a folded napkin, and surround with parsley leaves. Serve at the same time a sauce-boat of cream sauce (No. 454), into which has been incorporated half its quantity of grated horseradish heated in the sauce without boiling. FoiSmoked Mackerel.— Instead of boiling the fish, broil it o^er a slow fire, and serve it on a horseradish sauce with cream (No. 478). (1196). SPANISH MACKEREL A LA PERIGORD (Maquereau Espagnol a la P^rigord). Pare the fillets removed from the mackerel into half heart-shapes; lay them in a buttered sautoir, decorating the thickest part of each fillet with a rose-sh.iped ornament of truflles dipped in egg-whites. Baste over with melted butter, lemon juice, white wine, and salt; cover with a buttered paper, and let cook in a slow oven. Dress the fillets, reduce their liquid, adding velout^ sauce (No. 415) and slices of truffles fried in butter. Cover the truffles with a third part of this sauce, and glaze the fillets with flsh glaze (No. 399) combined with lobster coral butter (No. 580). Serve the remainder of the sauce separately. (1197), SPANISH MAOKEEEL A LA VIENNET (Maquereau Espagnol a la Viennet). Chop up separately some onions, shallots, and mushrooms; fry the onions and shallots in butter -then add the chopped mushrooms; lay on top mackerel fillets pared half heart-shaped, season Fig. aw. with salt, mignonette, and nutmeg; place over a liberal piece of butter, cover with a strong buttered paper, and set the jian in the oven for fifteen minutes, then drain oft" the butter, and add a little white wine, espagnole sauce (No. 414). and tomato sauce (No. •549). Dress the fish, reduce the sauce, and when ready pass through a tammy and pour it over the fillets. (1198). SPANISH MACKEREL WITH CRAWFISH-EILLETS (Filets de Maquereau Espagnol aux

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 462. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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moisten with fisli stock (No. 195); cover over with buttered paper, and let cook in a slack oven. Reduce the stock with an equal quantity of veloute sauce (No. 415); garnish around the fish with oysters from which the hard parts have been removed, small lobster rissolettes made as in No 956, and very green parsley leaves on each end. Serve the sauce in a separate sauce-boat. (1235), KED SNAPPER A LA MOBILE (Eed Snapper a la Mobile. Pare the fillets lifted from a fish, suppress the skin, and cut them up into half heart-shaped pieces; make an incision on one side, and fill this with a forcemeat prepared as follows: Fry colorless in butter some shallots, mushrooms, chives, and parsley; add to it a tomato puree (No. 730), season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and mix in a little bechamel sauce (No. 409). Lay the fish on a buttered dish, and cover with a Chivry sauce (No. 449). (1236). RED SNAPPER A LA PRINCESS (Eed Snapper a la Princesse). Remove the skin from fillets of fish and cut them up into half inch thick slices; pare these into ovals, three and a half inclies long by two and a quarter wide, season with salt and pepper. Lay on each oval a bed of mushroom puree (No. 723), and cover the whole with quenelle forcemeat (No. 90). Egg the surfaces, bestrew with bread-crumbs and a little parmesan, then set them in a lightly buttered sautoir; place this in the oven and when the fish is done, serve it with a separate princess sauce (No. 538).

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 470. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Cut slices an inch and a quarter thick from a sirloin; beat them to flatten them down to one inch, trim nicely, after which they should weigh twelve ounces; salt on both sides, spread them over with oil or melted butter, and broil them on a steady fire; it will take about eight minutes to have them very rare. Fig 310 ^ ten to have them properly done, and twelve if desired ■well done; set them on a hot disli with a little clear gravy (No. 404) or maitre-d'hOtel butter (No. 581). (13691 SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK A LA BEAENAISE (Bifteck de Oontrefilet a la B^amaise), Prepare and cook the beefsteak as for the plain (No. 13(j8); apart from the cooking described by minutes in that number, the time for broiling depends entirely upon the thickness of the meat, and the intensity of the flre. In order to judge whether the meat be done to the touch when it offers a certain resistance; this can easily be learned after once being accustomed to broiling. Dress the beefsteak over a Bearnaise sauce (No. 433); glaze the top with meat glaze (No. 403) using a brush for the purpose. (1370). SMALL SIELOIN STEAK A LA BORDELAISE (Bifteck de Oontrefilet h, la Bordelaise). AVhen the beefsteak has been cooked as described in the plain (No. 1368) lay it on a dish and cover with Bordelaise sauce (No. 436). (1371). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK A LA BORDELAISE WITH MARROW (Bifteck de Oontrefilet h, la Bordelaise et h la Moelle), Cook a small sirloin.steak as for No. 1368, then arrange it on a very hot dish and cover with a sauce prepared as follows: Cut four ounces of beef marrow into quarter-inch thick slices, plunge them into boiling water, then drain. Dress them on the steak and cover with a Bordelaise sauce (No. 436). (1372). SMALL SIELOIN STEAK A LA BORDELAISE WITH MARROW AND TRHTFLES (Bifteck de Oontrefilet a la Bordelaise k la Moelle et aus Truffes), After cooking the steak the same as a plain one (No. 1368) lay it on a very hot dish and cover with the following.sauce: Cut three ounces of marrow into quarter inch thick slices, and one ounce of truffles in thin slices. Parboil the marrow and drain it off; heat the truffles in a little Madeira and half-glaze (No. 400). Over the ste.ak arrange the marrow and truffles one intercalated with the other; cover with Bordelaise sauce (No. 436) and serve. (1373). SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK, ANCIENT STYLE (Bifteck de Oontrefilet M'Ancienne). After the sirloin is cooked as in the phiin (No. loGSj lay it on a dish, besprinkling it over with some anchovy butter (No. 569). Form on top a crown of anchovy fillets garnishing the interior with capers, and set round the steak a garnishing of potato balls, each an inch in diameter, fried three quarters in hot fat, and finishing cooking in the oven with some butter; when done drain off the butter, and season with salt, chopped parsley and lemon juice. (1374), SMALL SIRLOIN STEAK, WITH BUTTER AND COOKED FINE HERBS (Bifteck de Oontrefilet an Beun-e aux et Fine Herbes Ouites). After the beefsteak is cooked as explained in plain (No. 1308) dish it up and cover the top with a layer of butter and cooked fine herbs (No. 385). Garnish around witli fresh green watercresses, seasoning it with salt and vinegar. (1375). DELMONICO SIRLOIN STEAK OF TWENTY OUNCES, PLAIN (Bifteck de Oontrefilet Delmonico de Vingt Onces, Nature). Cut from a sirloin slices two incli;'s in thickness; beat them to flatten them to an inch and a half thick, trim nicely; they should now weigh twenty ounces each; salt them on both sides, baste them over with oil or melted butter, and broil them on a moderate fire for fourteen minutes if desired very rare; eighteen to be done properly, and twenty-two to be well done. Set them on a hot dish with a little clear gravy (No. 404) or maitre d'hutel butter (No. 581). (1376). DELMONICO SIRLOIN STEAK A LA PERIGUEUX (Bifteck de Oontrefilet Delmomco h, la Perigueuxt. After cooking the.steak the same as for plain (No. 1375), lay it over a P^rigueux sauce (No. 517), into which mix the third of its (|uantity of small ehieken quenelles, forced through a cornet to three-eighths of an inch in diameter, glazing it with meat glaze. (1377). DELMONICO SIRLOIN STEAK, SPANISH STYLE (Bifteck de Oontrefilet Delmomco a

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 502. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Prepare and cook the sirloin steak as deseriljed for plain (No. 1375). Chop up separately a quarter of a pound of lean beef free of sinews, and the same quantity of fresh pork. Mix these together with a tablespoouful of cooked fine herbs (No. 385), and one egg-yolk; season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, then divide the preparation into four pans; roll it on a floured table into balls, flatten them to half an inch thick, then dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them Fig. 311. in bread-crumbs; smooth this with the blade of a knife; plunge them into very hot fat for two minutes to brown the outsides. Drain and lay them one beside the other in a sautoir moistening them to their height with half-glaze.sauce (No. 413), and let simmer for three-quarters of an hour, basting them frequently. Brown in oil four ounces of minced onions, add to it four ounces ot finely minced green peppers, one clove of garlic, half a pound of peeled tomatoes cut in four and pressed; let cook together and reduce with a little brown sauce (No. 414) and gravy (No. 404). Lay the garnishing on the bottom of a dish, the glazed steak on top, and the hash balls over, one overlapping the other. (1378). SIRLOIN STEAK FOR GOURMETS; EXTRA FORTY OUNCES (Bifteck de Oontrefilet des Gourmets; Extra Quarante Onces). Cut from a good thick sirloin of beef, slices, each one being four to five inches thick; beat to flatten them down to three inches, then trim them carefully, salt them on both sides, cover with either clarified butter or melted marrow, and place in a double gridiron and broil them over a moderate fire for twenty minutes it desired rare, twenty-six minutes to have them properly done, and thirty mintites when necdiMl to be well done. Lay them on top of a gravy prepared as follows: Have two tablespoonfuls of finely choiiped shallot, fry it colorless in three ounces of butter, add some Fig. 312. melted glaze CNo. 403), stir in four ounces of fine butter, a teaspoonf iil of the best tarragon vinegar, chopped parsley, a dash of cayenne iiepper, and two ounces of beef marrow cut into half inch squares. When the marrow is warm, pour it on the dish, lay the extra size steak on top, glaze it with meat glaze (No. 403), and garnish around with gastronome potatoes (No. 3789). (1379). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF. HOW TO PREPARE (Pour Preparer le Filet de Bceitf). The tenderloin is found in the inside of the short loin in the hollow formed under the spinal bone. Detach the tenderloin from the spinal bone of a middle short loin by following the bone with the knife; then displace it from the flat bone and from the spinal bone, scraping it off so that no meat remains on the bones. Eemove the fat and large nerves and with a thin knife remove the hard skin covering the tenderloin. It is to be served whole or else cut up. Use the middle slices for Chateaubriands; for ten ounce tenderloin steaks n.se on each side of the Chateaubriand, for mignons, noisettes and tournedos the thin end and the other end for greuadius; the head part is also used for mincing, for Salisbury steaks, Hamburg steaks, etc. (1380), CHATEAUBRIAND, PLAIN TWENTY OUNCES (Chateaubriand Nature Vingt Onces). The name of Chateaubriand is given to the piece of meat taken from the middle of a large tenderloin. After it has been nicely trimmed, the Chateaubriand should weigh twenty ounces, or a pound and a quarter. Flatten it down to the thickness of an inch and a quarters, put it to cook on a broiler over a slow but regular fire for sixteen minutes if needed exceptionally rare, eigthteen minutes when properly done, and twenty for well done. Serve on a hot dish with maitre d'hotel butter or gravy. (1381), CHATEAUBRIAND, COLBERT SAUCE (Chateaubriand Sauce

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 503. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Trim some slices of tenderloin, cut lengthwise, and shape them in half-heart forms. Marinate them for three days in a cooked and cold marinade (No. 114). Drain and dry them, then fry in an omelet pan in hot clarified fat on a very quick fire. AVheu done rare, drain and lay them on shoes ot bread fried in butter, cut the same size and shape. Pour over a poivrade sauce (No. 533.) 490 THE KPICUREAN. a389). GEENADINS OF TENDERLOIN MARO AURELE (arenadins de Filet de Boeuf a la Marc

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 505. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Cut into thin slices the best part of a cold roast tenderloin, to weigh about four ounces, then pare them to make them of an even size. Heat some butter in a small saucepan, add to it two teaspoonfuls of finely chopped onions, also four spoonfuls of chopped mushrooms. When the moisture from the mushrooms has evaporated wet them with four spoonfuls of Marsala wine, reduce again to half, then thicken with a half-glaze sauce (No. 413), Heat the slices of beef between two dishes with the addition of a little clear gravy (i^o. 404), not allowing it to boil. If the tenderloin was previously braised instead of roasted, then the meat should be cut thicker, and heated in the sauce for twenty five minutes without boiling; arrange it on a dish either in one or two rows, and cover with the sauce. Surround the meat with potato croquettes (No. 3783), formed into balls of an inch in diameter and flattened. (1399). MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF-PLAIN (Mignons de Filet de Bceuf Nature). Trim carefully a tenderloin of beef, remove all the fat and nerves, then cut it into slices each one weighing five ounces; beat them lightly to have them all of the same thickness, then pare and cut them into round shapes. Salt on both sides, dip them in melted butter or sweet oil, and broil on a moderate, well-sustained fire; they should take six minutes if desired rare, eight minutes to have them properly done, and ten minutes if required well done. When half cooked turn them over and finish on the other side. Dress on a hot dish and pour some Fig. 3i5. clear gravy (No. 404) over. (1400). MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA BAILLARD (Mignons de Filet de Bceuf I la Baillard). First cook the minions the same as for the plain (No. 1399); dress them flat on a very hot dish; on each minion lay a piece of foies-gras removing it from the terrine with a spoon. Cover the whole with good Madeira sauce (No. 493) to which has been added trufiies cut in fine Julienne and fresh mushrooms. (1401). MINIONS OF TENDERLOIN OF BEEF A LA CHERON (Mignons de Filet de Boeuf a la

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 507. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Cut oft slices from a nice small tenderloin of beef, pare well, and beat lightly to flatten to a quarter of an inch thick, trim them round-shaped two and a quarter inches in diameter; they should weigh after being pared two ounces each; season them with salt and pepper, then liiy them on a dish and pour over some Madeira wine, letting them macerate for one hour turning them over several times; drain and wipe them nicely. Put some clarified butter into a saucepan, when very hot set in the tournedos one Ijeside the other, place the pan on a hot fire, and cook them the same as the plain tournedos (No. 1430). Drain off the butter, putin a little clear gravy (No. 404) and meat glaze (No. 403), reduce the liquid quickly, turning the tournedos overto glaze them. Prepai'e beforehand slices of unsmoked red beef tongue, two inches in diameter by a quarter of an inch thick, also some round slices of foiesgras, one and a half inches in diameter by three-sixteenths of an inch, and rounds of truffles one inch by an eighth of an inch in thickness. Dress the tournedos on slices of bread a quarter of an inch thick, and two and a half inches in diameter; these slices to be fried in butter; lay on top of each one a tournedos, and on these the foies-gras, and finally the round slice of truffle. Pour over a Laguipierre sauce (No. 486). (1435). TOURNEDOS OF TENDEELOIN OF BEEF A LA MAEIETTA (Tournedos de Filet de Boeuf a la Marietta), Have the toui'nedos prepared the same as for a la Laguipierre (No. 1434); set them on a dish over round slices of bread cut the same diameter as the tournedos, fried in butter, and a quarter of an inch thick. Cover them with port wine sauce (No. 492) into which mix some finely chopped up shallots previously blanched, some finely cut and chopped oronge mushrooms, nutmeg, espagnole sauce (No. 414), lemon juice, and pustachio nuts cut in fillets. Garnish aroupd with timbales made of short paste (No. 13.5), filling them either with noodles or parboiled macaroni, dranied and reduced with broth (No. 194a), seasoning with pepper, nutmeg and parmesan cheese, also some butter and veloute (No. 41.5). Between each timbale lay.slices of tongue cut the shape of cock's-combs, and warmed in butter, then glazed. (1436). TOUENEDOS OF TENDEELOIN OF BEEF A LA EOQUEPLAN (Tom-nedos de Filet de Bceuf k la Eoqueplan>. Prepare some tournedos the same as for a la Laguipierre (No. 1434,; lard one of them ■with salt pork (No. 3, Fig. 53), one with cooked tongue, one with cooked ham, and one with truffles cut the same size as the pork. When the tournedos are done, glaze, then dress them on a dish, intercalating each one with a fried egg-yolk; place on top game quenelles (Xo. 91) shaped in a hollow tartlet mold, and decorated with truffles. Pour into the bottom of the dish, a tomato sauce (Ko. 549) mixed with half glaze (No. 413) with clear gravy (No. 404), and garnish around with fried potatoes Julienne (No. 2T92), just when ready to serve. (1437). TOUENEDOS OF TENDEELOIN OF BEEF A LA TALABASSE (Toumedos de Filet de

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 513. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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The tenderloin for thi.s must be prepared and cooked the same as for a la Bienvenue (1445); glaze, then dress it and garnish around with small olive-shaped carrots first blanched, then cooked in broth (No. 194a), butter and sugar; when done the broth will be reduced to a glaze; also have i urnips cut ball-shaped, blanched, then cooked in broth, butter and sugar and reduced the same as the carrots; some small glazed onions, and celery roots cooked in gravy (No. 404). Serve separately the braise stock reduced with espagnole (No. 414); when ready to serve add some Madeira wine. (1462), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, HUNTER'S STYLE-WHOLE (Filet de Bceuf au Ghasseur-Entier). This tenderloin is to be cooked and prepared exactly the same as for a la Bayonnaise (No. 1443); pare it, glaze, and dress it on a rice or short paste (No. 135) foundation, garnishing around and on each side with game quenelles (No. 91), molded in a tablespoon (Fig. 80), and laying them one beside the other on a buttered tin sheet; pour into this sheet some boiling salted water, and keep the water continually boiling while poaching the quenelles until tliey are tliorouglily done. Raise the. tenderloins and sirloin from four young rabbits or any other kind of game, paring them to the sa. e shape as the rablsit tendecloin; remove all the nerves with the tip of a knife, then lay them on a dish, and season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, thyme, bay leaf, branches of par.sley, minced carrots and onions, lemon juice, and two tablespoonfuls of oil; let them marinate in this for one hour, being careful to turn them over several times, then take them from the disli witluiut the vegetables and after dipping tliem into a frying laatter (No. 137); fry them a fine color and garnish with these. Have a half -glaze sauce (No. 413), add to it some game carcasses and Madeira wine, when the same is ready strain either through a sieve or tammy, and mix in with the sauce some eighth of an inch.square pieces of cooked ham. Pour a third of this around the tenderloin, and send the rest to the table in a separate sauce-boat. (1463). TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, INDIAN STYLE-WHOLE (Filet de Boeuf k rindienne-

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 519. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Blanch the calves' brains the same as for the poulette (No. 1481); divide each one in four parts and dress every piece on a separate oval-sliaped slice of bread that has been fried in butter; place them on a hot dish and cover either with Venetian sauce (No. 555), or Hollandaise vert pre (1487). BREAST OF VEAL A LA BOURDALOUE (Poitrine de Veau a la Bom-daloue). Remove the bones from a breast of veal without touching the gristle; pick the skin with a trussing needle to extract all the air, and season it on the boned side; roll it up lengthwise and tie. Cover the bottom of a saucepan with a few minced vegetables, lay the breast on top, salt lightly and moisten to half its height with some unskimmed stock (No. 194a); add a bunch of aromatic herbs, put on the lid and let the liquid reduce to a glaze; remoisten to half its height and finish cooking the meat in a moderate oven, turning it over frequently during the time so that it gets a fine color all over. Before serving drain, untie, and keep it warm, while stirring into its gravy half a glassful of white wine; let boil, strain through a sieve, free it of its fat and thicken with a brown sauce (No. 414). Dress the meat on a long dish and garnish around with veal quenelles, and small canapes garnished with chopped up Iiara, serving the sauce separately. (1488). BREAST OF VEAL A LA MONDOUX (Poitrine de Veau a la Mondoux). Procure a white and fat breast of veal; cover a baking pan with minced carrots and onions, fragments of fat pork and a garnished bouquet; lay the breast on top, moistening to its heighth witJi stock (No. 194a); first boil then cook it in a slack oven for three hours, being careful to turn it over several times during this period. When the breast is well done, remove the hard ribs, leaving on the gristle; set it under a weight, and when nearly cold bread-crumb them English style (No. 13). Butter liberally a baking sheet, lay the meat on top, sprinkle over with more butter, thea brown it nicely in a slow oven. Dress on a long dish and range around a garnishing composed of tomatoes cut in halves and the moisture extracted, shredded green peppers, chopped onions and a clove of garlic, the whole fried in butter and diluted with a little veloute (No. 415), nicely seasoned and besjirinkled with chopped (larsley. (1489). BREAST OF VEAL AU GASTRONOME (Poitrine de Veau au Gastronome). Select a fine breast of veal as long and wide as possible; remove the red bones covering the gristle, jjrick the skin with a needle, and lay a towel over the meat, then with a cleaver strike the top with a few blows so as to expel the air; slip the blade of a knife between the skin and ribs, as far a.s the gristle and the ends, and fill the space in with a veal quenelle forcemeat (No. 92) to which has been added very finely chopped chives and red beef tongue; sew up the skin quite close to the rib bones to give it its original shape. Bntter the bottom of a roasting pan; cover it with minced carrots and onions and a garnished liunch of parsley, lay the breast on toji, spread it over with good fat and pour in a pint of stock (No. 194a) or water. Two and a half hours before serving put the breast into a moderiite oven, baste it occasionally, glaze it of a fine color and serve it with the half-glaze (No. 400) poured over and gastronome potatoes (No. 3789) around. 1. Head and Neck 3. Rack 3. Loin and Saddle 4. Lefr 5. Feet VEAL, AMERICAN OUTS (Veau, Coupe h. rAmericaine). 10 9_ 'iSJ 7. Shoulder 8. Tail 9. Fore Quarter 10. Hind Quarter Fig. 322.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 524. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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1. Head and Neck 2. Rack 3. Shoulder 4. Loin and Saddle 5. Lesrs 6. Trotters 8. Tail Fig. 334. (1585). BEEAST OF MUTTON PLAIN (Poitrine de Mouton au Natural). Take three fine well covered breasts of mutton; remove with a blow ot the knife the bone part covering the tendons, tie up the breasts and put them into a bakmg tin, having the bottom covered with slices of fat pork, carrots, onions and a bunch of garnished parsley; moisten with sufficient stock (No. 19-(a) to allow them to swim, bring to a boil on thetopof the fire, skim, then place in the oven to cook for two hours and a half, turning the meats over during the time. When the bones can be easily detached drain off the breasts and suppress all the rib bones leaving the tendons on; lay the meats under a weight or in the press (No. 71) to reduce them to half an inch in thickness, and when cold pare off the skin without touching the fat; trim them into half hearts, dip in melted butter and stick a piece of the bone in the pointed end; broil over a slow fire to a Que color, then dress, glaze and imur a clear gravy (No. 404) over; garnish each bone end witli a frill (No. 10). (1586). BEEAST OP MUTTON STUFFED-TOMATO ANDALOUSE SAUCE (Poitrine de Mouton

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 547. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Remove the bony part of a breast of mutton over the tendons open on the straight edge in such a way as to form a pocket and fill this with some of the following stuffing; sew it up and braise the meat in a mirepoix stock (No, 419); when cooked dress glaze and cover with part of the stock reduced to the consistency of half-glaze; serve a tomato Andalouse sauce (No. 550) separately. For the Stuffing. — Chop up finely half a pound of lean, sinewless pork with half a pound of bacon, add to it half a pound of soaked and well pressed bread-crumljs. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped onion and a bit of garlic, both of these lightly fried in butter and finish with chopped parsley and two whole eggs. (1587). BEEAST, TENDON AND SHOULDER OF MUTTON, NAVARIN (Poitrine, Tendon et Epaule de Mouton Navarin). Cut into half inch pieces one pound of breast, one pound of tendon and one pound of shoulder of mutton. Lay these meats in a vessel, season them with salt, pepper, two cloves, nutmeg, thyme, bay leaf and a bunch of parsley containing a clove of garlic; pour on a quarter of a bottleful of Madeira wine and let marinate for six hours, then drain off the meats, wipe dry and fry them with chopped up fat pork and half a pound of three-quarter inch dice pieces of blanched lean bacon; add to this the Madeira and aromatics with some brown sauce (No.414) and let cook on a moderate fire while skimming off the fat thoroughly. In the meantime prepare some turnips cut out with a (531) om>-inch vegetable spoon, fry them in lard and when they Ijegin to brown, sprinkle over some powdered sugar and after they are of a fine color, remove with a skimmer, place in a saucepan and finish cooking in a little of the brown sauce taken from the stew, and wetting with some stock (No. 194a). Dress the stew, range the turnips around and pour over the gravy from both the meat and turnips reduced together with half a pint of white wine and strained through a tammy (No. 159). (1588). HAKIOOT OF BREAST OF MUTTON WITH TURNIPS (Haricot de Mouton aux Navets), Have three pounds of breast of mutton cut up into two inches pieces; fry them in six ounces of butter letting them get a fine color, then drain them through a colander; trim and cut the bones, pare square, add one ounce of flour to the butter and when slightly browned, moisten with the three pints of broth, (No. 194a) boil, skim off the fat and strain through a tammy. Set all this into a clean saucepan and add to it the well-pared pieces of meat, add two carrots, two onions, one with tliree cloves in it, a bunch of parsley garnished with bay leaf, thyme and a clove of garlic, salt and pepper; let boil until the meat is well cooked and the sauce properly reduced. Pare two pounds of turnips the same shape as pigeon's eggs, fry them in butter and as they first begin to brown, sprinkle over with powdered sugar, and when they have attained a very fine color, put them into the stew removing the fat pieces an hour before serving allowing them all to cook together After the meat is done, which can easily be perceived if the bones detach easily, remove the carrots, onions and parsley, then dress the meat and garnish with the turnips; strain the.sauce and pour it over; in case the sauce be too thin reduce it until it acquires proper consistency. The carbonade. (1589). CARBONADE A LA JUVIGNY (Carbonade a la Juvigny). piece from the end of the last chop to the beginning of the leg is called The bones are first extracted from the loin and it is then pared on all its length and width and larded with medium lardons (No. 3, Fig. 52), season, roll and tie it up into an oblong square (Fig. 335). Line the bottom of a saucepan or braziere with slices of fat pork, slices of veal, carrots, onions, bay leaf and thyme; lay the carbonade over, set a heavy buttered paper on top and pour in a quart of stock (No. 194a); let simmer for two hours and a half. Fifteen minutes before serving time, glaze the carbonade letting it become a fine color, dre.ss it and garnish around with small pearshaped carrots cooked in broth (No. 194a), small blanched onions cooked the same, small turnip balls blanched and browned in the pan with a little sugar and fini.shed cooking in broth, and celery knobs the size of a clove of garlic, blanched and cooked likewise in broth. All these vegetables should be only sufficiently moistened so that when they are done the liquid is reduced to a glaze; strain the meat stock, remove its fat and finish by reducing it to the consistency of a half-glaze and add Juviguy sauce (No. 485). Fig. ^5. (1590). PLAIN MUTTON OUTLETS AND MUTTON CHOPS (Cotelettes de Mouton Nature et

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 547. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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For plain cutlets use racks of mutton, having the meat tender and wellmatured, suppress the skin covering the fat, shorten the rib bones aud divide into equal-sized cutlets make a handle to the cutlets by removing the fat from about one inch of the end and scraping the bone clean, when nicely pared they should each weigh about four ounces. Salt the cutlets, baste with oil and range them all on the same side on the broiler; they take from eight to ten minutes to cook. When done, dress them on a di.sh. pour over a clear gravy (No. 404) and trim each chop with a paper frill (No. 10), Mutton Chops are cut either from a loin or half saddle of a sheep split lengthwise in two. These chops should be cut rather thick, each one al)out an inch and a half and then flattened to an inch. Pare and season with salt, baste with oil and broil for about twelve minutes, dress and serve very hot. Fui. (1591). MUTTON CHOPS SOYER (Cotelettes de Mouton Soyer). Soyer chops are out from the saddle dividing it into one and a h.ilf inch thick slices cut the full width of the saddle; they.should each weigh twelve ounces after being pared and are to be cooked for

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 548. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Have some well pared cutlets; lard them v^'ith cooked ham, then lay them in a sautoir with clarified butter, fry over a brisk fire, moistening with a little Madeira and meat glaze (No. 402). Pour some well reduced velout6 (No.41.5) into a saucepan, and add to it some freshly grated horseradish, thickening with a few egg-yolks, then put in the whites of the eggs beaten stiff; use this preparation to cover over the larded side of the cutlets; smooth them nicely with a knife, and bestrew with bread-crumbs fried in butter; pour melted butter over and brown in a hot oven, then serve after having trimmed the handles with paper frills and dressed the cutlets flat on a well acidulated Colbert.sauce (No. 4.51), with minced ceipes added. (1601). MUTTON CUTLETS WITH BRAISED LETTUCE (Ootelettes de Mouton aux Laitues

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 550. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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paper, let cook to reduce in the oven, being careful to baste frequently, and to add more liquid as quickly as it evaporates, they will take about two hours. Have some lettuce blanched and braised (No. 2754); when done and well drained, dress them in the center of a dish placing the cutl'ets around after glazing them and trimming the handles with paper frills (No. 10). Strain, remove the fat from the stock and reduce with a little brown sauce (No. 414) and white wine; pass through a tammy and pour a part of it over the meat serving the remainder in a sauce-boat with the cutlets. (1602). MUTTON CUTLETS "WITH CHICOOEY, TRUFFLES OR FRIED POTATOES (Cotelettes de Mouton a la Gliicoree, aux TrufFes ou aux Pommes Frites). With Chiccory. — Dress them in a circle when prepared the same as for the marinade (No. 1604), fill the empty space with a chiccory garnishing (No. 2729), serving a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) With 7';'«_^e,s.— Prepare, cook, and dress the cutlets the same as for the above; fill the inside of the circle with finely shredded truffles added to a half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and Madeira wine. With Fried Potatoes. — After they are prepared, cooked, dressed, and glazed, fill in the inside of the circle with half inch balls of potatoes sauted in butter, and seasoned with salt, parsley, and lemon juice. (1603). MUTTON CUTLETS WITH CUCUMBERS (Cotelettes de Mouton aux Ooncombres). Prepare and cook the cutlets the same as with braised lettuce (No. 1601); when done dress them crown-shaped, and fill the inside of tlie circle with cucumbers cut the shape of a clove of garlic, cooked in stock (No. 194a), drained, and mingled with cream bechamel sauce (No. 411). (1604). MUTTON CUTLETS WITH MARINADE (Cotelettes de Mouton a la Marinade). Select two racks of mutton having the meats tender and well matured, remove the remainder of the breast leaving the cutlet bones only four inches long, also remove the neck as far down as the third cutlet; saw off the spinal bone without injuring the fillet as far as the joints of the cutlets, then cut from each rack either five, si.x, or even seven cutlets according to the thickness of the meat, each one when pared ought to weigh four ounces. Pare the meat from the end of the bone, about one inch deep to make a handle, then flatten each cutlet lightly and suppress the filsrous skin on the fat, also the skin adhering to the inside of the bone; salt over and dip the cutlets in melted butter, and broil them on a bright fire, only turning them over once to have them retain their blood and be juicy. Glaze, garnish the handles with frills (No. 10), and dress; pour a little clear gravy (No. 404) into the bottom of the dish, and serve with a separate marinade sauce (No. 496). (1605), DOUBLE BARON OR SADDLE, ROASTED (Double Baron ou Selle R6tis\ The double of mutton is the l^ack hip part with the leg on which the saddle with about seven of the ribs is left adhering (Fig. 340). Select a good sheep not too large, but young and fat, remove the skin and suppress the fat; cut several incisions on the fat to facilitate and equalize the cooking,

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 551. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Pare some mutton fillets, remove.all sinews and fat, then cut them up into slices; pare them round: fry in butter, season, drain off the butter and add some cooked fine herbs (No. 38.i). and half-glaze sauce (No. 413). Dress the meat on round slices of bread cut a quarter of an inch thick by two inches across, fried in butter and laid on a dish; pour the sauce over and serve. (1613). PAUPIETTES OF FILLET OF MUTTON A LA DELUSSAN (Paupiettes de Filets de

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 553. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Cut the mutton fillets when well pared iu eightli of an inch tliick slices lengthways of the meat; flatten down these small bands and season each witli salt and pepper; cover one side with chicken forcemeat (No. 62) into which has been added an equal quantity of cooked fine herbs (No. 385); roll them up cylinder-shape and run them on a skewer; pour over some melted butter and broil them over the flre; dress and cover over with a reduced espagnole sauce (No. 414), to which sliced mushrooms have been added; incorporating into it at the last moment some chopped parsley. (1614). SLICES OP FILLET OF MUTTON, MAITEE-D'HOTEL (Tranches de Filets de Mouton a la

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 553. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Pare well the minion flllets from the mutton; cut them lengthwise through their thickness, pare and season with salt, then bread-crumb them English style (No. 13), and broil to a flue color. Dress these on a hot dish and sprinkle over with either maitre-d'hOtel butter (No. 581) or else a thickened maitre-d'hOtel sauce (No. 493). (1615). FILLETS OF MUTTON LARDED, WITH GREEK RAVIOLES-WHOLE (Filets de Mouton En tiers Piqu6s atix Ravioles a la Grecquel Raise, pare, and remove the sinews from some mutton flllets; lard them with fine larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52) and roast them in a hot oven; when done, dress on a garnisliing of Greek ravioles. Greek RaimlfS. — Chop fine and pound one pound of fillet or loin of mutton, add to this a sheep's brain, cooked, well drained, and pounded, and two ounces of rice previously boiled in water; season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, and add one ounce of chopped onions fried in butter, some chopped parsley, a little bechamel (No. 409) half an ounce of fresh butter, and four raw egg-yolks; taste this forcemeat, to see whether the seasoning be correct, then use it to make square ravioles as described in No. 158, when poached and drained, place them in some clear gravy (No. 404) to simmer for a few moments until it is absorbed, bestrewing the ravioles with grated cheese; pour over a thin tomato puree (No. 730) serving a clear gravy (No. 404) separately.. (1616). MUTTON KIDNEYS A LA BURTEL (Rognons de Mouton a la Burtel). Suppress both the skin and fatty parts from eight kidneys; separate each one into two and lay them in a pan with melted butter, and a pinch of shallot; toss quickly and when well seized, season with salt, pepper, and a dash of cayenne pepper; as fast as their humidity is reduced lift them up with a skimmer and lay in a small vessel. Pour a quarter of a pint of Madeira wine into the pan, let reduce to half, then add as much melted glaze (No. 402); boil the liquid, and thicken it at once with small bits of kneaded butter (No. 579); at the first boil stir in the kidneys, and at the same time two tablespoonfuls of cooked ham cut in small dice, and a pinch of chopped up tarragon. Remove the stew from the flre, pour it into a dish and surround with fried bread croutons glazed Yv'ith a brush.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 553. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(16171 MUTTON KIDNEYS A LA SOUBISE (Rognons de Mouton a la Soubise). There is a certain way of splitting the kidneys and running them on skewers so that when cooked they form a very distinct hollow in the center; for this it requires that they be split deeply on the h(illo\v side, opened, and two skewers tlirust through the entire thickness, each side of the fat so that the meats come together again while cooking, the center forming a pocket; season and roll them in melted butter, broil over a good fire, then withdraw the skewers, and glaze the kidneys with a brush. Dress them on a dish and fill in the hollow with a slightly consistent soubise puree (No. 733), laid on through a small pocket or paper cornet. Serve them at once; the soubise may be replaced by a bearnaise sauce (No. 433). (1618). MUTTON KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS (Rognons de Moitton en Brochettes). Select fine chocolate colored mutton kidneys, for those either black or pale yellow are of a poorer quality. Split them three-quarters through the round part, so as to open without separating the pieces; suppress the light skin that covers the surfaces, spread them out, and stick a metal skewer Fig. 341. through their thickness, to keep them entirely opened; season with salt, coat with oil or melted butter, and roll them in bread-crumbs, then broil with the open side toward the tire; five or six minutes after turn them over and lay a piece of maitre d'hotel butter {No. 581), the size of a smaU hickory nut, on top of each, and after they are done, dress. The skewers may be removed before.serving, and a little of the maitre d'hotel butter laid on top of each kidney. (1619). MUTTON KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS, BORDELAISE SAUCE (Brochettes de Rognons de Mouton a la Sauce Bordelaise). Cut the kidneys across In si.x pieces; have small inch squares of bacon an eighth of an inch thick, place an alternate piece of kidney and bacon on the skewers, season, dip in oil, and roll in bread-crumbs: broil over a brisk fire, serving with a separate bordelaise sauce (No. 436). (1620). MUTTON KIDNEYS ON SKEWERS, DEVILED (Rognons de Mouton en Brochettes a la

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 554. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Cut the loin parts beginning at the first rilj; cut off the two legs below the tail, in a round direction going toward the flank, remove the thin skin covering the fat, and roll the flank over, keeping it in position with si.x: rounds of string, tying a knot at each round. Place the meat in a braziere having the grater or leaf covered with sliced pork, moisten with two quarts of stock (No. 194a) adding half a pound of grated fat pork, two carrots, two onions, two bunches of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf, and one gill of brandy; three hours before serving let it come to a boilon a brisk fire, baste the meat covered with a heavy and strongly buttered paper, then set it in the oven being careful to watch that it simmers slowly until it is cooked; ten minutes before serving drain it on a baking pan, untie carefully, coat it over with glaze, and glaze it in the oven. Dress the saddle, glaze it afresh and group around clusters of glazed new carrots, glazed onions and celery root. Strain the stock, remove the fat and reduce with brown sauce (No. 413) and Madeira, this sauce to be served separately. (1650). SADDLE OR BAEON-ffi THE OVENWITH MASHED POTATOES (Sells ou Baron au

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 560. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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On the Spit. — Select a small raw unsmoked ham, remove the aitchbone, saw off the handle joint and suppress the rind and part of the fat, leaving only a layer half an inch in thickness; pare the ham into a round shape, then lay it in brine from two to eight days, and later when needed for use, wash it in plenty of cold water; wipe and envelop the lean parts in a large slice of fat pork: tie up the ham and roast it on the spit, basting it frcipiently with white wine; serve hot with a sauce-boat of Madeira sauce (No. 492). Marinated and Roasted in the Oven— White Wine Sauce.— Vre\M\rQ the ham the same as for the above, only instead of salting it, place it in a vessel to marinate for two days with white wine and a seasoning of salt, pepper, sliced onions, cloves, minced carrots, parsley leaves, thyme, bay leaf, a little sugar and sweet oil; turn the meat over every three hours. Wrap the ham up with its marinade in several sheets of strong paper and roast it in a moderate oven for three houre and

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 590. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Roll some sausage meat into four ounce balls and wrap these up m " crepinette " or caul fat; shape them into slightly lengthened flat pieces. There can be some parsley, tarragon or other herbs added to the sausage meat according to taste. Dip them in melted butter, then roll in breadcrumbs, and broil over a slow fire, afterward dress on a puree of tomatoes (No. 730), mingled with soubise sauce (No. 543). (1806). SAUSAGES WITH TRUFFLES (Saucisses aux Truffesl Take two pounds of fresh pork meat from the neck; remove carefully all the fibrous parts retaining as much meat as fat; season with an ounce and a half of salt, a teaspoonful of freshly grouud allspice, and add four ounces of truffles cut in small dice or finely chopped. Make sausages of this preparation, broil and dress them on a garnishing of minced truflBes mingled with supreme (1807). SAUSAGES LONG-WITH WHITE WINE (Saucisses Longues au toi Blanc). Prepare some five or six inch length. sausages the.same as the Chipolata (No. 1801), prick them with a small larding needle, fry in fresh butter, and when cooked dress on a dish; drain the butter from the sautoir and replace it by white wine, chablis, sauterne or champagne, one or the other, extending the sauce with velout(5 sauce (No. 415); boil it up once, strain through a tammy, and finish with lemon juice and fresh batter; pour it over the sausages. (1808). SPAEE EIBS, PARISIAN STYLE (Petit Sal6 a la Parisienne). Take some of the breast ribs of a pig and salt them for twelve hours in a light eight degree brine; remove and wash off in cold water. To cook them it is better to take an already salted broth, one in which a ham or any other meat has been boiled. When this reaches boiling point. throw in the ribs and leave to cook without boiling. (1809). SUCKLING PIG, PIEDMONTESE STYLE (Coclion de Lait k la Pitoontaise). Pick and wasli two pounds of rice; parboil and lay aside a third part, then put it into a saucepan with strained unskimmed stock (No. 194a) reaching to more than twice itsheighth, season with a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and when the rice is cooked which will take about half au hour, stir in with a fork, four tablespoonfuls of grated parmesan. Stuff the inside of the pig with this, sew it up and cook it on a cradle spit or in the oven, basting it over frequently with sweet oil. Threequarters of an hour before serving, set the other two-thirds of rice in a.saucepan, moisten it with stock (No. 194a) and half a pound of chicken fat, adding also a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay leaf and a clove of garlic, bring to a boil, place in the oven and when the rice is cooked, remove the parsley and stir in with a fork, fresh butter, meat glaze, grated parmesan and mignonette. Dress this rice around the suckling pig and serve a Colbert sauce (No. 451) separately. (1810). SUOZLIITG PIG, EOASTED ON THE SPIT, OE STUFPED AND BOASTED (Cochon de Lait Eoti k la Broche ou Farci). Empty well a scalded pig, truss tlie limbs and head, run it on the spit and roast before a good fire, basting it over with a large brush wet with oil. The great difficulty is to have it a beautiful color while cooking to perfection. It should take from an hour and a half to two hours, having the skin crackling browned and crisp. When the pig is cooked dress on a large dish and surround with water-cresses seasoned with salt and vinegar, serve at the same time a sauce-boatful of clear gravy (No. 404), or one of mint sauce (No. 616) or else both, and a vegetable dish of Naples style macaroni (No. 2959). Swikling Pig Stuffed and Roasted. — The pig may be stuffed with an American bread stufiing (No. 61), in this case it wiU be necessary to cook it for half an hour longer. (1811). SUCKLING PIG, SALTED AND SMOKED WITH SAUEEKEAUT (Oochon de Lait Sal« et

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 594. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(1825). CAPON A LA EEGENOE (Ohapon a la Eegence). Singe, draw, and remove the breast bones from two capons; All the breasts with seasoned butter, then truss as for an entree (No. 178); lard the breasts with fine lardons (Xo. 3, Fig. 53), and cover the unlarded parts with.slices of fat pork. Put the capons in a covered braziere (Fig. 134), and moi.sten them with mirepoi.x (No. 419), to^_a_little above their wings; cover over with buttered paper, and leave to simmer slowly for one hour. Uncover the braziere, take off the paper, and glaze all the larded parts. Have four larded sweetbreads, ten large truffles, twelve fine cocks'-combs, and eight big crawfish. Make a garnishing with chicken quenelles and mushrooms, combining these with some regenee sauce (No. 532). Cut a piece of bread-crumb ten and a half inches long by four and a quarter wide, and three and a half inches high, it to be conical-formed; fry this, then attach it to the center of a dish with repere paste (No. 142), so that it can support the two capons; have these well drained and arrange them to rest against the bread, the rump parts uppermost. Pour the prepared garnishing into the bottom of the dish; place two large sweetbreads below the two breasts, and two more in the middle intersections, then two crawfish on each side of the sweetbreads; glaze the sweetbreads and tlie larded parts of the capon and serve with a regenee sauce apart. Make six hatelets with the cocks'-combs and the truffles (Fig. 11), and fasten them in tastefully. (1826). CAPON LEGS WITH TEUPfLES, EOAST CAPON (Ouisses de Chapon auxTruffes, Chapon

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 600. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(1827). CHICKEN BEEASTS A LA CHEVEEUSE (Estomacs de Poulet a la Chevrense). Dip the breasts of two or three chickens in boiling water, lard them with some fillets of ham, and truffles cut the size shown (No. 4, Fig. 53), braise and as soon as cooked drain and arrange them against a triangle-shaped bread support; between each chicken lay a group of truffles, one of olives and another of quenelles; pour some supreme sauce (No. 547) around them and serve more in a sauce-boat. (1828). CHICKEN A LA DELISLE-BEOILED 'Poulet a la Delisle).

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 600. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Draw a young pound and a half chicken, cut off the legs at the first joint, cut a.slit in the chicken near the pope's nose and pass the stump bone through the slit; split the chicken in two lengthwise, pare each part, beat down to flatten, season and roll in melted butter, then in white bread-crumbs and broil on both sides turning over when the meats are found to be done. Dress the two half chickens on a hot dish garnish the leg bones with frills (No. 10), and serve with some good tarragon gravy or else with tarragon sauce (No. 548). (1832). CHICKEN COCOTTE (Poulet en Oocotte). " Cut up one small pound and a quarter to pound and a half chicken; season with pepper, only divide it into four parts, the two legs and the breast part cut in two; put the jHeees in the bottom of a cocotte (small earthen sauceiian. Fig. 354) with a little piece of butter the size of a nut, placing the legs underneath and the breasts on top, add a small bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf and over lay two ounces of unsmoked bacon cut in flve-eighths inch squares blanched, then fried in butter, also a dozen and half pieces of potato-shaped like cloves of garlic and as many small raw onions fried to a light color in butter; lay here and there half F,o yj^ an ounce more butter, put on the lid and push into a moderate oven for half an hour. The cocotte should stand directly on the bottom of the oven; turn the ingredients over carefully ranging the meat on top of the vegetables; let cook for another ten to fifteen minutes, then add a little clear gravy (No. 404) and chopped parsley; toss and serve in the cocotte itself. (1833). EPIGRAMMESOF CHICKEN A LA VOLNAT (Epigrammes de Poulet kla Volnay). Raise the fillets from four chickens, remove the minion fillets and skin, bone thoroughly and stuff the thighs, then put them into half heart-shaped bottomless molds three-eighths of an inch high, braise and leave to cool under the pressure of a weight; pare, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry nicely. Saute the breasts on a moderate tire, drain and dress them in a circle alternated with the thighs, decorate with fancy favor frills (No 10); and fill the center with a garnishing of whole chestnuts, truffles, muslirooms and cover with veloute sauce (No. 41.5) that has been thickened at the last moment with egg-yolks and raw cream. (1834), CHIOKEN FILLETS OE BREASTS A LA BEKANGEE (Filets ou AUes de Poulet k la

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 601. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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half a pound of butter, some onions fried in butter with the goose liver cut in small squares, sage, thyme, basil, marjoram, parsley, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Roast the goose either on the spit or in the oven for an hour and a half to two hours, basting it frequently. When done, dish it up on top of a puree of apples seasoned with sugar and nutmeg. Peel some apples cut in four; range on a generously buttered dish, sprinkled over with sugar, and cook for ten minutes in the hot oven, and lay around the goose. Serve separate a sauce prepared with the glaze from the dripping pan detaching it with a little gravy (No. 404), strain and skim; mix in gradually some espagnole sauce (No. 414) in which currant jelly has been dissolved; strain the whole through a sieve, and serve it in a sauce-boat to accompany the goose. (1952), EOAST GOSLING OR MONGREL GOOSE (Olson ou Oie Metisse Eotis), A gosling roasted on the spit makes an excellent dish. It can also be cooked in a slow oven laid in a narrow earthenware (Fig. 377) or iron pan with plenty of fat; generally both these birds are stuffed before being roasted. A mongrel goose may be filled with partly broiled chestnuts lightly fried in butter or fat pork; it can also be stuffed with small apples after removing the core with a tube five-eighths of an inch in diameter, or both chestnuts and apples can be replaced by a fresh pork hash into which flue herbs and bread crumbs have been mixed, or even by small sausages roasted partially in fat pork or grease. If the goose be large it will take two to three hours to have it tender; when a gosling is cooked on the spit it must first he trussed, then wrapped in buttered paper and roasted for one hour, being careful to baste frequently and to remove the paper after it has been in threequarters of an hour to let it acquire a flue brown color, and it is then served simply with good reduced gravy (No. 404).' A kind of thick pancake can be served at the same time made with bread-crumbs soaked, pressed, then pounded in a bowl and diluted with whole eggs and milk, seasoning with salt, pepper, pulverized thyme and marjoram and chopped blanched onions. Lay this preparation on a well-greased tin sheet and cook in the oven basting it bountifully with goose grease, after cutting it into inch and a half squares. (1953^. GOSLING SAUTED WITH TOMATOES, ROBERT SAUCE (Oison Saute aux Tomates k la

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 630. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Have a good gosling, singe, draw and cut it up into seven pieces — the two legs and five pieces taken from the breast; season with salt and pepper and fr.y slowly in lard. Drain off the fat and detach the glaze from the pan with a little clear gravy (No. 404). Cut twelve peeled tomatoes acro.ss in two, press out the juice and seeds and fry them in a frying pan with very hot oil; season with salt, pepper and a crushed and chopped clove of garlic. When the pieces are cooked, dish up and dress the fried tomatoes over; sprinkle very green chopped parsley on top, pour the gravy around and serve separately some Robert sauce (No. 533). (1954). GOSLING STEWED WITH TURNIPS (Eagoiit d'Oison aux Navets). * Cut up a small tender and well cleaned gosling into medium-sized pieces, suppressing the pinions, drumsticks and neck; cut also half a pound of lean bacon into half inch squares; fry them for a few moments in butter, and remove with the skimmer, leaving the fat in the saucepan; lay the pieces of goose into this fat, fry over a hot flre while stirring, season and add one onion and a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme and bay leaf. When the meats are browned, drain otf the fat and dredge the goose with flour, moisten to its height with hot stock (No. 194a), and boil up this liquid while stirring, letting it remain in this state for ten minutes; the sauce should now he slightly thickened. Cover well the.saucepan with its lid and continue to cook moderately. Take raw turnips and cut them into balls three-quarters of an inch in diameter, place them in a pan with the strained fat from the goose, season with salt and a pinch of sugar, and colorthem briskly; when half cooked lift out the pieces of goose to trim neatly, strain its stock and return it to a clean saucepan with a gill of Marsala wine, the pieces of goose, the bacon and the turnips; boil together for ten minutes and finish cooking in a slack oven. The gosling and turnips should both be found done at the same time; dress all in a deep dish with very little sauce. (1955). GUINEA FOWL (PintadeX The guinea fowl is a pretty bird the same size as an ordinary fowl, having slate-colored ( ^-^ "^ii^j^^r"*^^*^ i^^^Z^^M'"*^^-^^; -i?^®^^-— I

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 630. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Homini/ and Samp {Crushed Corn). — Cook some hominj' in boiling salted water, spread it on a baking sheet in a five-eighths of an inch thick layer and when cold cut it into oblongs one inch wide by two and a half inches long, dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry to a fine color, then drain, salt and dress on folded napkins. Samp is a species of Indian corn crushed to the size of small jieas; it should be soaked in cold water for several hours, then cooked in a covered saucepan with water, salt and butter for three hours, placed in a slack oven after it has boiled up once. Put it to cool on a dish, divide it into inch and three-quarters balls, flatten, keeping them thin on the edges and thick in the center, dip in eggs and bread-crumbs and fry nicely to a fine color (2056). SALMIS OF OANVASBAOK DUCKS (Salmis de Canards Sauvages, Canvasbaok). Cook either on the spit or in the oven two ducks prepared for roasting (No. 179j; when nearly done, nntruss and divide each one into si.>: pieces, cutting the breast in four and legs in two. (The legs are generally fibrous and tough. ) Put all the pieces in a saucepan with their own blood and keep them warm in a bain-marie, having a lid on top. Put the fragments of the ducks, broken in pieces into another saucepan with a pint of red Bordeaux wine, half a shallot and a pinch of mignonette, let boil slowly until the liquid is reduced to half, then pass it through a colander into a sauteingdish, adding the same quantity of thick espagnole sauce (No. 414); reduce the whole until consistent, pass it once more through a tammy and finish by incorporating therein a tablespoonful of sweet oil and the strained juice of half a lemon. Pour this sauce over the cut up ducks and dress on the center of a dish, garnish around with half heart croutons hollowed out in the center and filled with minced celery parboiled and cooked in consomme (No. 189j, cover with half -glaze and Madeira (2057). CANVASBAOK DUCKS, BiaARADE SAUCE-BREASTS (FUets de Canard Sauvages, Canvasback. Sauce Bigarade). Prepare and cook the eanvasback ducks the same as roasted (No. 2055); when still very rare, remove and raise the two fillets and divide each one into three pieces. Put them in a chafing dish with a little melted game glaze (No. 398), as much butter and the juice of half a lemon, roll them well in this to glaze and dress on a bigarade sauce (No. 435). (2058), CANVASBACK DUCKS WITH OEANGE JUICE, POET WINE AND CUEEANT SAUCE —BREASTS (Filets de Canards Sauvages, Canvasback, au Jus d'Orange ^ la Sauce Porto et k la Gelfe de Groseilles). Roast the ducks the same as for roasting (No. 2055) keeping them very rare; raise the two fillets, one from each side of the breast and cut each one into two lengthwise pieces; put them in a chafing dish, pour over some bitter orange juice, also a little game glaze (No. 398) and brown poivrade sauce (No. 522); serve separately a sauce made with currant jelly dissolved in port wine, heating it in a bain-marie, then strained through a fine wire sieve, surround with half-heartshaped croutons of bread fried in butter. (2059). MALLARD DUCKS EOASTED AND BROILED— (Canards Sauvages, Mallard Eotis et Grilles). Draw two singed and clean Mallard ducks, wipe out the insides with a cloth and fill the empty space with some bread dressing combined with butter or chopped suet, thyme, bay leaf, parsley, and a few finely.sliced green celery leaves, adding egg-yolks; truss (No. 179), and run a skewer through to fasten them on the spit, then roast basting over with melted butter or oil. The fire should be quite brisk, and if so, twenty minutes will be sufficient to cook them. Dish them up with sliced lemons around, and serve the gravy separately. Broiled. — Mallard ducks are broiled and dressed the same as canvasback, the only difference to be observed is perhaps a modification in the time of cooking. (2060). MALLAED DUCKS WITH CELERY HALF-GLAZE-ROASTED (Canards Sauvages, Mallard

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 656. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Truss some mallard ducks for roasting (No. 179), and when cooked dish up as the others. They maybe served eitlier whole or else cut up into si.x pieces or the fillets only it they be whole; place the garnishing around; should they be dressed in a circle then fill in the center with a garnishing composed of cardoons or celery cut in half inch squares, blanched and cooked with chopped beef marrow also blanched, and afterward drained; put them into a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and let simmer for a few moments. (2061), SALMIS OF MALLAED DUCKS WITH MADEIRA (Salmis de Canards Sauvages, Mallard au Madere). Cut two roasted wild ducks iuto six pieces; remove the skin and part of the bones, then divide the breasts and legs, suppressing the feet, and range them in a sautoir keeping it cox'ered. Chop up the carcass, bones, and parings; fry a mirepoix (No. 419), and minced shallots with aromatic herbs, add to this the chopped carcasstis and moisten with two or three gills of reil wine previously boiled in a copper pan, and reduce it to three-quarters; again moisten to their height with stock (No. 194a) and continue to cook for twenty minutes; strain this through a tammy, remove the fat and return it to the fire and reduce, thickening with half-glaze sauce (No. 413), and finishing with two spoonfuls of Madeira wine. As soon as it is completed, strain it over the pieces of duck, and heat in a bain-marie for a quarter of an hour. Dress the pieces on a dish, cover over with a part of the sauce and.serve the remainder separately; surround with thin round crusts masked on one side with baked liver forcemeat (No. 81), and serve. (2062). BEDHEAD DUCKS A LA BAEEDA (Canards Sauvages k Tete Eouge k la Bar^da), These ducks are first to be prepared the same as for roasting; put them in a pan, cover with good fat and roast them in the oven; add one gill of vinegar, a spoonful of powdered sugar, and mignonette pepper; baste the birds several times while cooking and salt over a few moments Fig,.■5%. before removing from the oven. Untruss and strain the.stock, suppress all the fat, and place it in a sauce-pan with.some espagnole sauce (No. 414) currant jelly, mixing the whole well together, pass through a sieve. Make a sour apple marmalade, drain properly and press it through a very fine sieve, stir in some unsweetened whipped cream; serve these two sauces separately at the same time as the birds. (2063). REDHEAD DUCKS, ROASTED AND BROILED (Canards Sauvages a Tete Rouge Eotis ou

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 656. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(2140), YOUNG EABBITS, HUNTEE'S STYLE (Lapereaux au Chasseur). Skin and draw two young rabbits; wash, wipe, and cut each one into twelve pieces; put them into a sautoir on a brisk fire to fry and color the meats lightly, adding half a pound of raw ham cut in oue-eightli of an inch squares, four ounces of onions cut exactly the same size, a bunch of parsley garnished with thyme, bay loaf, garlic, and a clove. Drain off the fat, and season with salt and pepper, putting in a pint of espagiiole sauce (No. 414), and as much Burgundy wine; simmer, reduce, and add a pint of cooked minced mushrooms and half as many trufftes. Dish it up and garnish with the mushrooms and truffles, pour a third of the sauce over, and range croutons of bread fried iu butter all around; serve the remainder of the sauce in a sauce-boat. (2141). WILD BABBIT JUGGED WITH BLOOD (Civet de Lapin de Garenne au Sang). Procure a good, young, fleshy wild rabbit, preserve all the blood in a bowl, stirring into it a little vinegar to keep it liquid. Skin and prepare it, and cut it up into equal-sized pieces. Put the meats into a vessel to season and let marinate for two hours with a little boiled vinegar, a little white wine and a tied bunch of fresh and wild thyme. Chop up some fat pork, melt it iu a frying pan and add to it half a pound of snwll squares of bacon; after these are well sized, remove them with a skimmer and add to the fat the well-drained pieces of rabbit and cut up onions: fry over a good fire until the meats are nicely browned and have evaporated their moisture, then put them into a fireproof stone vessel with a glassful of red wine; reduce this over a brisk fire and moisten the meats at once to their height with white wine and stock (No. 194a); let this liquid come to a boil, then remove the ve.ssel on one side to boil gently until partly done; strain the liquid through a sieve, pare the surplus bones from the meats and return the latter to the saucepan with the cut up bacon, the marinade, a bunch of parsley and a peeled clove of garlic. Put the stew back on the flre and thicken it with a little cooked roux or diluted flour, finish cooking slowly. A few moments before serving, transfer all the pieces of rabbit and bacon into another saucepan, strain the sauce over and boil up once or twice thickening it off the fire with the reserved blood; let cook again but without boiling. Dress the stew on a dish and surround it with small clusters of onions glazed separately, if intended for a more ceremonious dish, a few clusters of fresh, peeled mushrooms cooked in butter may be added. (2142). YOUNG EABBIT EOASTED AND LAEDED (Levraut Piqn^ et Eoti). Suppress the skin from the back and hind legs of a good, trimmed rabbit; fill the body with a bread forcemeat (No. 81), with cooked fine herbs (No. 3S5) and ehop])ed truffles mixed witli a thii-d as much liver baking forcemeat (No. 64); sew up the opening. Break the bjne of the thick thigh part so as to be able to bend the legs under and keep them in position while trussing: truss also the fore legs and the head, keeping the latter upright. Lard the back and thighs with larding pork (No. 3, Fig. 52). Lay the rabbit on a spit, maintaining it in position with skewers, and roast it for thirty to forty minutes, basting over frequently with butter, and when done salt it over. Remove, untru.ss,.and dress on a dish; serve separately some clear gravy (No. 404), also a light sharp sauce (No..538). (2143). FILLETS OF YOUNG EABBITS A LA BIENVENU, GAENISHED WITH CEOQUETTES

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 676. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Cut up into one-inch squares some chicken livers; season with salt and pepper and run them on to metal skewers (Fig. 176), intercalating each piece with a thin one-inch square of bacon: coat over with oil or melted butter, roll in bread-crumbs and broil over a slow fire; dress them on a Colbert sauce (No. 451). (2223). SKEWERS OF LAMPREYS, MARINADE SAUCE (Brochettes de Lamproies, Sauce

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 694. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Braise some cocks'-combs and kidneys, and when cold drain and wipe well. Cover the combs with a white chaudfroid (No. HdS), and the kidneys with a blond chaudfroid made by mixing half brown chaudfroid (No..504) and half white chaudfroid (No. 59G). Coat with jelly a plain cylindrical or channeled mold, having it rather high, and fill the bottom with the combs dressed in a ring, one overlapping the other, and cover with jelly; lay on top a garnishing of the kidneys, cover with more jelly and when this has hardened dress on some roasted chicken fillets, sliced and pared round-shaped, and covered with ravigote chaudfroid (No..'59.5); lay these in a circle and continue to fill up the mold, alternating the combs, kidneys and chicken; when very full let get cold and unraold on a small low socle made of stearine. Place a mandrel in the empty space in the mold, and on it a cup filled with small cases containing whole glazed truffles, and decorate around with small timbales (No. 3, Fig. 137) filled with jelly and foies-gras. (2411). ASPIO OF FOIES-GEAS (Aspic de Foies-Gtras). Incrust a plain cylindrical mold (Fig. 1,50) in ice. Unmold on a small baking sheet a terrine of foies-gras; remove all the grease and keep it for one hour on ice. Cut this foies-gras into three- •eighths of an inch thick slices, using a knife dipped in hot water, and then cut these slices into inch and a quarter rounds with a pastry cutter also dipped in hot water. Lift up these rounds one by one with a fork and immerse them in a brown chaudfroid sauce (No. 594), having it thin and almost cold; range them at once on a baking sheet and let this sauce get quite stiff on the ice. Cut out some rounds of cooked truffles very nearly the same diameter as the foies-gras, only have half as many; glaze them with a brush and range them at once on a baking sheet. Pour a quarter-inch thick layer of jelly into the mold, and when it has become quite hard dress on it a ring of the foies-gras rounds, the smooth side uppermost and slightly overlapping each other, but alternating every two with a round of truffle; cover this crown with cold jelly an inch and a half in thickness, and again form two more distinct crowns exactly the same as the first one in order to fill up the mold, pouring jelly between each. Keep the mold on ice for one hour or more. In order to turn it out it is only necessary to dip the mold into warm water, wipe dry, and invert it on a cold dish. (733)

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 739. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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to form a right angle; these squares are intended to keep up the tenderloins on the inclined slope, and are most necessary; place the small molds at the ends, and set around the piece twenty-four Fig. 455. small croustades made of short paste (No. 135), and filled with goose livers taken from a terrine of foies-gras; around the.se throw some chopped jelly, making a very regular border of croutons of the same. Stick two hatolets, one at each end, and in the center put a small ligure holding up a cup filled with glazed truffles. (2437). TENDEELOm OF BEEF A LA NOAILLES (Filet de BcBuf k la Noailles). Thi.s tenderloin must be prepared exactly the.same as for a la Bayonnaise (So. 14-13); when cold trim it nicely and glaze it with meat glaze (No. 402), using a brush for the purpose. Cover it with jelly and.set it on a.symmetrically carved rice foundation, garni.shing around with mushrooms, truffles, scallops of foies-gras and chicken niou.<selines made in tartlet molds. The mushrooms are to be cooked and emptied with a vegetable scoop, then filleil with a foies-gras, pres.sed through a tammy and glazed in a white chaudfroid (Xo..5961. Tlie chicken mousselines should be covered with green chaudfroid (No. 595), and scallops of foies-gras to be covered with a brown chaudfroid (No. 594), the truffles glazed. Arrange this garnishing around the tenderloin with chopped jelly and croutons of jelly, but do not decorate it with hatelets. (2438). TENDEELOIN OF BEEF A LA VIOLETTA (FUet de Boeuf k la Violetta). Have the tenderloin prepared and cooked the same as for a la Bayonnaise (No. 1443), and when completely cold pare it to the needed size to fit in an oblong mold, previously decorated with a variety of vegetables blanched and cooked in broth (No. 194aj. Cover this decoration with a heavy coating of jelly; cut the tenderloin nine inches long by three and a half wide; trim it nicely and lay it in the center of the mold and imbed it in ice, laying it in very straight. Fill up the mold with cold melted jelly, and when it becomes quite cold and the jelly thoroughly firm, unmold it on an oval dish, and garnish around with some finely chopped jelly. Select eight equal-sized, large, ripe and very firm tomatoes; plunge them into boiling water to peel off the skins, and empty the insides through an inch and a quarter opening on the stalk end. Shred some lettuce leaves and cooked beet-root, scii.son lliem with sail, pepper, oil and vinegar, and thicken the whole with a little jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), mixing in with it some whipped cream; fill the tomatoes with this, and put the covers on again; coat them over with partly cold jelly; also have eight cooked artichoke bottoms, garnish each one with asparagus tops seasoned and thickened with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), adding to it some whipped cream. Place on top of the asparagus a small black truffle glazed with jelly; garnish around the inside of the dish with chopped jelly. Lay the prepared garnishings over, and intercalate around tliese a row of jelly croutons (Fig. 457). 736 fTHK EFICUREAN. (2439), TENDERLOIN OF BEEF, GEENADINS ROOHAMBEAU (Filet de Boeuf, Grenadins

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 751. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Prepare and cook a tenderloin the same as for a la Chanzy (No. 1447), keeping it quite rare; glaze it over several times and leave till cold. The drawing that accompanies this dish will show the way to prepare the meat for a supper, or for serving at a small sideboard supper. First take an oval-shaped drum, three inches high and hollow in the center, fasten it on an oval board a quarter of an inch thick and an inch wider than the outlines of the drum; on top of this drum lay an oval wooden socle an inch and a halt high and slightly curved in the center, it being two inches narrower all around than the drum itself, thus forming a shelf. Decorate all around the drum with small sticks of vegetables, such as carrots and turnips, cut out with a tin tube five-sixFlG. 456, teenths of an inch in diameter, and Ijlaiiched separately in salted water; lay thera in regular rows one over the other formed of the two distinct colors, being careful to dip each piece in half-set jolly to make it adhere to the form; when the drum is all decorated, glide it on to a long dish, the bottom being filled with jelly; keep it in a cool place at forty-two degrees temperature. Pare and cut up the tenderloin in crosswise slices, each a quai-ter of an inch thick, dress them on the second curvedshape form, glaze and cover over with jelly. Have a garnishing of Brussels spi-outs, celery roots, aiiu cucumbers, all of uniform size, also some green peas, all ot these to be dres.sed in small clusters, alternating the various colors; these must be placed on the shelf between the drum and the curve; imt chopped jelly in the dish around the piece. Serve mayonnaise sauce (No. 606) at the same time. (2442). BORDERS OF DIFFERENT SHAPED JELLY CROUTONS (Bordures de Diff&entes Formes en

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 752. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Procure very firm and very clear jelly (No. 123) cooled on tin plates twoincheshigh: unraoldwhen very cold on wet napkins having all the moisture squeezed out, then spread on the table without any creases whatever. The jelly can be cut into many shapes (see Figs. 457 to 465, jelly croutons for borders). Lay them on the edge of the inside of the basin with regularity. They must be Fig. -157. Fig. 4.'>n. Fig. 460. V'%^.><A>^ Fig. 404. cut very evenly. The effect they produce can easily be seen on the different designs the plates offer. Round croutons are cut with a round pastry cutter that has been well heated in hot water. The thickness of the croiiton should be in proportion to its diameter. (2443), VEGETABLE BOEDEES (Bordm^es de L6gumes). Boil and cook in salted water some carrots, turnips, green peas and whole string beans; keep them all slightly firm. Cut the carrots into three-sixteenths of an inch to a quarter of an inch thick slices, according to the size of the border; lay these slices on a napkin to dry, then cut halfFig. 466. Fig. 467. Fig. 468. rings from them with a column tube and coat them with half-set jelly. Fasten them on by dipping into half-set Jelly, and then placing them tastefully on the edge of the basin of a very cold dish; range the string beans in lozenge form between the half-rings at the base and the green peas on. the center of the half-rings on top. 7;j8 (2444). BUtTEK BOEDERS (Bordures en Beurrel Tlicsc borders arc not verjpractical; they can onljbe made wiieu the temperature is very low and are only mentioned in ease there be no other resource available; yet they can be of tjveat utility. The butter should be well kneaded to remove all foreign matter that it might contain; it should be Fig. 469. colored green or red; spread it out on sheets of paper three-sixteenths of an inch thick, then leave to cool; invert these on wet napkins, and remove the paper; cut it into rounds, rings, or triangles. Dress them on the border of a dish, alternating the colors; the dish must be kept in the refrigerator until required. (2445). MOLDED JELLY BOEDER (Bordure de Gelee Moulee). Incrust a metal border mold, either of tinned copper or tin, on ice; decorate it with fanciful cuts, either of truflfles, tongue, egg-white, pistachio nuts or vegetables, done by dipping them inhalfFlG. 470. set jelly. When the mold is decorated, coat this decoration with a layer of jelly, done by rolling the jelly in the mold on the decoration until there is a layer sufficiently thick to protect it; fill up with jelly. When sufficiently firm unmold the border on a dish, having the basin filled with very firm jelly. The border can be filled with foies-gras, chaudfroid, etc. (2446). LAMBS' BRAINS WITH MAYONNAISE (Cervelles d'Agneau a la Mayonnaise). Steep six lambs' brains in fresh water for lialf an hour; skin them by lifting off the thin cuticle enveloping them, also the sanguineous fibers, and return them to fresh water to soak for two hours more. Place them in a saucepan with sufficient boiling water to cover, adding salt and vinegar, and let boil slowly for twenty minutes. "When cold and drained, dress in a circle, placing between every brain a crouton of red lambs' tongue cut to resemble coeks'-combs; decorate all around with garnishing of eggs (N'o. 2.513), gherkins and beets; fill the center of the circle with some green mayonnaise with fine herbs (No. 612), and surround with pretty clear jelly croutons. (2447). CASES OF LOBSTER A LA RAVIGOTE-SMALL (Petites Oaisses de Homard a la

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 752. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(2475). CUTLETS 01 LAMB WITH TOMATOED OHAUDFEOID (Cotelettes d'Agneau an Chaudfi'oid Tomate). Fry in Initter a dozen fine sliort-handled spring-lamb cutlets; put some blond cliaudfroid sauce (No. o9G) into a saucepan and mix in with it a few spoonfuls of tomato puree (No. 730), so that it acquires a light red tint; thicken it by putting the saucepan on ice and moving constantly with a spoon, and when thick dip the cutlets in so as to have them well covered. Range them at once on a baking sheet slightly apart, but all on the same side, and allow the same to harden in a cool place; detach them, pare and decorate the kernels with a i-osette formed of pickled gherkin and truffles dipped into half-set jelly; cover tlie whole with a coating of jelly, cool, then dress in a circle on a dish, having the'handle bones under and the kernels on top; fill the center with chopped (2476). CUTLETS OF LOBSTEE A LA LOWERT (Cotelettes de Homard k la Loweryl C'liop up three hard-boiled eggs, the whites and yolks separately, also some pistachios. Incru.st a cylindrical mold in ice; divide the bottom into six even parts with sticks of truffles dipped in half-set jelly and in one of these put the white, in another the yellow, and in a third the green; repeat, then pour over a little jelly, and when hard add sufficient to have it three-eighths of an inch thick; over this lay in a circle some lobster e.scalops covered with jellied mayonnaise {No. 613), one overlapping the other; pour more jelly over, and continue this process until the mold is full; leave it on ice to get thoroughly cold, invert it on a dish and surround with cutlets prepared as follows: Have some bottomless cutlet molds; lay them on sheets of oiled paper, and cover the bottom of each one with a bed of jellied mayonnaise having raw fine herbs added to it; on top place small, wellseasoned slices of lobster, also sliced truffles, and cover with a little white jellied mayonnaise (No. 613), strewing the whole with finely chopped truffles; when very cold unmold and dress tliein in a circle around tlie aspic; trim the thin ends with a fancy favor frill {No. 10), and place a bnrder of stuffed olives (No. 695} around the cutlets, and chopped jelly and croiitons outside the whole. (2477). CUTLETS OF PHEASANT IN CHAUDFROID (Chaudfroid de Cotelettes de Faisaa). The accompanying drawing. Fig. 481, is the model of a mold in which the cutlet preparation is hardened; this is male of thick tin, open on both ends, but it can be closed by covers that fit on the mold itself. This mold when closed measures three inches in height and two in width, it being shaped like a half-heart, but for preparing a large quantity double molds can be employed, they having almost a whole heart-shapa appearance; if these are used, after the preparation is hardened and nnmolded, it is to be cut in two through the center from the top to the bottom and each half made into a single cutlet; in this way there will be sufficient of them to dress three or four dishes. With the breast meat cut from a large cold r<iasted pheasant, an equal amount of cooked foies-gras, one or two gills of melted game glaze (No. 398), and two or three gills of brown chaudfroid sauce (No..594) reduced with pheasant fumet (No. 397), make a preparation, and when smooth and of a desired consistency mix in with it a fine salpicon of cooked foies-gras and truffles, half of each; then stir it on ice to thicken sufficiently so that the truffles and livers do not fall to the bottom. Pour it into the cutlet mold, laying on ice. and wrapping the mold in a sheet of paper imbed it completely in pounded ice and keep it thus for five or six hours. At the expiration of this time dip the mold in warm water to unmold the preparation, and then cut it at once into two parts, from top to bottom; smooth the surfaces well and keep foia quarter of an hour on ice. After removing them, divide across in slices each three-eighths of an inch in thickness, and take these up one by one on a broad fork and dip in some brown cliaudfroid sauce (No. 594) properly thickened; drain it off well and range the cntlets on a cold baking sheet slightly apart. Lay this on ice for lialf an hour to harden the sauce; detach the cutlets from the sheet and jjare off any surplus of

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 765. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Take seven or eight fresh round Perigord truffles, all of equal size and very clean; peel, salt and cook them for seven or eight minutes in a little Madeira wine and leave them to cool off in this liquid. Remove all the meats from tliree womlcoek roasted rare, keeping aside three or four of the fillets; pound the remainder of the meats with a jiart of the cooked intestines and threequarters as much cooked foies-gras; season and rub through a sieve; put this puree into a vessel and beat it up for two minutes with a spoon, incorporating into it slowly four spoonfuls of good melted game glaze (No. 398) and one gill of liquid brown chaudfroid sauce (No. '>di) reduced with game fumet iNo. 397) and essence of truffles (No. 39.")); when all is well mingled add gradually to the preparation two and a half ounces of fresh butter, wiped and divided into small pats; the whole should now be very smooth without being frothy. Drain the truffles, stand them upright on a cloth to mark the tops with a tube from a column box an inch in diameter; remove this marked piece and empty the truffles out with a vegetable spoon; pound these removed pieces with as much cooked foies-gras, season the preparation and lay it in a bowl to beat up for a few moments so as to have it smooth. Prepare a montglas with half of the woodcock fillets laid aside, and an equal quantity of red beef tongue mingled with a little good reduced and thick Madeira sauce (No. 413). Moisten with a brush dipped in cold jelly a dozen tin cutlet-shaped molds, cover the bottoms and sides with the w'oodcock preparation, leaving an empty space in the center; fill this up with some of the cold montglas; cover with more of the preparation and smooth it at once; keep the molds for one hour on ice, then unmold them and cover with a layer of brown chaudfroid sauce (No. ')Qi). Put a few spoonfuls of this chaudfroid sauce into a vessel, thicken it while stirring on ice and mix with it the remainder of the woodcock fillets cut in small dice and twice as much cooked foies-gras cut the same; use this prei)aration for stuffing the emptied truffles; range them as soon as done on a small baking sheet and close the opening with a round piece of cooked foiesgras cut out with the same tube used for marking the truffles; glaze over the whole with a brush; keep this baking sheet on ice for half an hour. Harden a thick layer of jelly on a dish and on top of it set a narrow wooden foundation covered with white paper; on this dress the truffles piled in a pyramidical form, then push chopped jelly through a cornet into all the intersections, as well as around the truffles, to maintain them in position. Around this board dress the cutlets in a circle after inserting a fancy favor frill (No. lOi into each. (2481). LOBSTER DOME GARNISHED WITH SMALL CASES (Dome de Homard (Jarni de Petites

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 767. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Prepare one pound and a half of baking forcemeat (No. 64); let this forcemeat become quite cold, then pound and rub it tlirough a sieve. Chop up two jwunds of lean veal with a pound and a quarter of fresh fat pork, and pound this to a pulp also; season and lay it in a bowl to mix with three or four raw, chopped truffles, and add liver baking forcemeat. Butter cradle-shaped molds, and cover the insides with a thin layer of the forcemeat, leaving an empty space in the center; fill up this vacancy with large strips of raw foies-gras, season and intermingle them with forcemeat and cut-up raw truffles; cover this over with more of the forcemeat and with slices of fat pork. Lay the mold on a raised-edge baking sheet containing a little water, push it into a slack oven and bake for an hour and a quarter; when removed, cool under the pressure of a slight weight. These pies are useful for cutting up in slices. (2485al GALANTINE OF CHICKEN (Galantine de Pouletl Singe one large chicken, suppress the neck and drumsticks, also the pinion bones; split it in two down the back and bone it entirely. Spread the chicken out on a table, remove part of the breast meats and lay them on the skin where there is no meat. Also remove the meat from the ?y Fig. 484. legs, suppress the sinews and chop them up and place in a vessel; also chop up three-quarters of a pound of lean veal and an equal amount of fresh fat pork and add it to the legs; add a (luartor of a pound of blanched fat pork, cut in half-inch squares, and an ('([ual quantity of cooked red beef tongue; add a few quartered truffles and a few peeled pistachios; season and pour over a few spoon-

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 768. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Artichoke Bottoms. — Trim some small round artichoke bottoms two inches in diameter; rub over with lemon and blanch in plenty of water; cook them in a white stock (No. 183) seasoned with salt and lemon juice, putting in also half a pound of chopped beef marrow; cover with battered paper and boil slowly. When the Ijottoms are well done remove from the fire, place them into a stone bowl, cover with buttered paper and leave to cool in their liquid; wash them off in boiling w-ater, marinate and drain. Lay each bottom on a turnip cut out to imitate the base of a vase, and fill with either macedoine salad (No. 2650) or a separate vegetable: carrots, turnips, green peas, cauliflower, string beans, asparagus tops, crawfish tails, or else a salpicon of tongue, truffies and mushrooms mixed in even parts and mingled with mayonnaise sauce (No. 606). (2501). GARNISHING OF ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS, IMPERIAL (Garniture de Fonds d'Artichauts

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 775. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Incorporate some rather firm jelly into a little pur^e of foiesgras, spread it out on a baking sheet to half an inch in thickness and leave to cool. With a pastry cutter remove from it some Fig. 493. rounds two inches in diameter, and from these remove the center with an inch and a quarter pastry cutter. Place these rings in small shallow crimped paper cases. Cut some hard-boiled eggs in two through the center of their height, empty the interior of each half and refill them to a point with a half-inch salpicon of chicken, truffles, tongue and mushrooms, combined with a little jellied mayonnaise (No. 613); strew chopped parsley over. Lay these eggs on the rings and cover lightly with jelly. (2515). GARNISHING OF HARD-BOILED EGGS, VASE SHAPE (Garniture d'CEufs Durs en Forme de Vase). Cut off a third of the length of the egg; use the most rounded end for the upper part and the pointed end for the base; stick these two parts together with white chaudfroid (No. 596); take out the yolk and replace it by chopped jelly (Fig. 494). P^^ ^^ (2516). GARNISHING OF WHOLE HARD-BOILED EGG-YOLKS (Garniture de Jaunes d'(Eufs Durs Entiers), Have some small, even-sized hard-boiled egg-yolks; stand them on rings cut from gherkins or beef tongue; lay in a circle a fillet of anchovy twothirds the height of these yolks; besprinkle the inside of this circle with finely chopped truffles, and on top place a green pistachio nut (Fig. 495). (2517). MUSHROOMS STUFFED AND GLAZED WITH CHAUDFROID

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 778. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(No. 194a), keeping thorn firm; tie the head in a cloth and boil it for five hours over a slow fire; set it to cool for half an hour, unwrap it and reshape the head as near as possible by wrapping tightly around it a linen band, beginning at the snout and finishing at the base of the head; press lightly; when entirely cool unwrap. This head may be shaped in a specially made mold, then unmolded and glazed. Reconstruct the head with imitated eyes and fangs, and glaze over the well-pared ears with meat glaze and fasten on with skewers; lay it on an oval stand made of rice, in two parts, the lower part one and a half inches high the top part one inch high; on the edge of the lower one place a wreath of oak leaves; garnish the lower tier with truffles in paper cases and the base with chopped jelly and croutons, and ornament the head with some hatelets..-^ Fig. 537. Head Cheese. — Salt a pig's head for three days in a light brine or in sea salt; cook it in remoistening (No. 189), with onion, thyme and bay leaf added. After it is done bone it entii-ely and cut the moat into half-inch squares. Also cut a few slices from the fatty cheek part and with them line a square tin mold. Put the squares of meat in a receptacle sufflciently large to contain them, and mix together; add four finely chopped shallots, pepper, nutmeg, a soupspoonful of chopped parsley, a glassful of good white wine and a pint of melted jelly (No. 103); mix all together. Pour all of this into the larded mold, place it in the oven and let cook slowly for half an hour. Remove and cover with a board, having a pound and a half weight on top. Cut in slices and serve cold. (2619). WOODOOOK A LA VALEEE (B^oasses \ la Val^re). Roast six woodcocks; let them get cold, then raise the fillets from them all; suppress the skin and pare into the form of half-hearts, all the same size. Pound the remainder of the meats and the insides, from which the gizzard and pouches have been removed and to which half as much foies-gras has been added, the whole fried in butter. With this forcemeat mash the fillets on the side that adheres to the breast-bone. Put the broken bones into a saucepan with half a pint of white wine, a bay leaf and a minced shallot; let simmer slowly for half an hour, then run it through a fine sieve; add this fumet to an espagnole reduced to the consistency of a sauce, then add some jelly, cool on ice, stirring continually, and when the chaudfroid is sufficiently consistent cover the woodcock fillets; after it becomes quite cold cover with half-.set jelly (No. 103), pare and dress on a di.sh in a circle on a nicely carved rice foundation, one and a half inches high. Lay chopped jelly around and garnish the center with some salpicon tartlets made of foundation paste (No. 135), cooked white and filled with a salpicon of game, red tongue and mushrooms, mingled with a little brown chaudfroid (No..594). Surround with jelly croutons of two shades alternated, brown and white — the former made of brown jelly and the latter of white.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 818. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(2620). DEESSINGS OR SEASONINGS FOR SALADS, TARRAGON AND CHILI VINEGAR (Assaisonnements poui' Salades, Vinaigre a I'Estragon et au Poivre de Chili). Remoulade Sauce, Pimentade with Tomatoes, Tarragon and Chili Vinegars. — The quantity of salad to be seasoned and the necessary proportions must be taken into consideration when using these dressings. When a salad is served no oil should ever remain at the bottom of the bowl; the quantity of oil varies according to the salad. It generally takes three to five spoonfuls of oil for one of vinegar. This can be varied according to taste. Americans do not like the taste • of oil in which the taste of the olive is prominent, and therefore prefer a neutral olive oil. When a salad is prepared away from the dining-room it is better to put the salt and pepper in a bowl, dissolve thera with the vinegar, add the oil and mix well; then pour this over tlie salad, and stir it in a common salad bowl before removing it to the one intended for the table, this being a much cleaner method. There are glass decanters for mi.xing the seasonings, adding to them an eggyolk and a little mustard; shake this well, and by so doing alight mayonnaise is obtained that can be poured over the salad. Another waij is to put the salt and pepper into a spoon, add the vinegar, mix with a fork, pour it over the salad and afterward the oil, or else put the salt and pepper into the salad, stir, then add the oil, stir once more and lastly pour in the vinegar, stirring it well again. Tarragon Vinegar. — Fill a two-quart.iar two-thirds full with layers of tarragon leaves, shallots and onions; pour over some very strong vinegar and use it two months later, filtering it before doing so. Chili Pepper Vinegar. — Put into a quart jar half its height of Chili peppers, cover with strong wine vinegar, and three months later it can be used, either with the peppers or filtered. (2621). ASPARAGUS SALAD (Salads d'Asperges). Cut the tender parts of asparagus into nieces of equal length and tie them in bunches, then cook them in salted water and leave them to get cold. A few minutes before serving mix tliem in a bowl with a third of their quantity of iiared cj-awflsh tails; season with salt and peiiper. Paib through a sieve the yolks of six hard-l)oiled eggs, dilute this with oil and vinegar, and pour over this sauce the asparagus and crawfish, then arrange the salad symmetrically in a salad bowl and add the seasoning to it. (2622). BAGRATION SALAD (Salade k la Bagration). Have some very white lettuce leaves, sorce anchovies, marinated tunny fish, stoned olives, beetroot cut small, minced gherkins and escaloi;i of lobster. Season the lettuce leaves and lay them at the bottom of a bowl; also season the othW ingredients with a little mayonnaise (No. 606), lay them on top of the lettuce, and dredge ov/r and around a border of chopped truffies to decorate. Place on top quartered hard-boiled eggs, In the center a pretty lettuce heart, and around this some chervil, tarragon, water cress, parsley, burnet and cliives, all chopped up very fine and divided into six parts, arranging them tastefully around the lettuce heart. (2623). BEEF SALAD WITH TOMATOES (Salade de Boeuf aux Tomates). Scallop or trim in slices some cold boiled or braised beef, pare the pieces round-shaped, and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, also very finely cut-up chervil and chives; lay all oa a plate or salad bowl, giving it a dome-shape, and garnish around the salad with peeled and quartered tomatoes. (2624). CAPON SALAD A LA MORTIMER (Salade de Ohapon a la Mortimer). Have a cold roast capon, cut off the thighs and the breasts; suppress all the skin, fat and bones. Divide the meat into slices three-sixteenths of an inch thick, and these into round pieces an inch in diameter; lay them in a deep dish, and season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and mustard. Now put into a salad bowl half a pound of salted encumbers, half a pound of potatoes, a quarter of a pound of minced red radishes, a quarter of a pound of celery or celery knob, all being minced up very fine; season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, chopped chervil and tarragon, and mix S04 THE EPICUREAlSr. thoroughly. Cut into eight pieces suflSoient artichoke bottoms to form a border, dip the tips of each piece into finely chopped parsley. Prepare rounds of truffles one inch in diameter by oneeighth of an inch in thickness; arrange the vegetables at the bottom of a a cold dish, lay the capon on top, cover with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), and surround the whole with the artichoke bottoms; inside this border lay symmetrically the slices of truffles, and inside of these slices of beetroot cut smaller than the truffles, and on top of the beets smaller bits of gherkin; finish the center with a small cluster of truffles. Send this salad to the table to show the guests before removing it to stir and serve. (2625). CHICKEN SALAD, AMERICAN STYLE-CHICKEN MAYONNAISE (Salade de Poulet a

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 819. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Cook a four-pound chicken in some stock (No. 194a); the time. illowed for this varies considerably, according to the age of the chicken, but the usual length of time is about two hours. When the chicken is done put it into a vessel, pour its own broth over, and let it cool therein; remove it, and begin by lifting off all the skin and white parts from the breasts; cut the meat into dice from five to six-eighths of an inch, and lay them in a bowl, seasoning with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Chicken salad may be prepared either with lettuce or celery, the latter being generally preferred. Choose iine white celery, wash it well, drain and cut it across in one-eighth of an inch thick pieces or else in Julienne; dry them in a cloth to absorb all the water remaining in them. Put at the bottom of a salad bowl intended for the table some salt, peijjier, oil and vinegar; mustard can be added if desired; mix the seasoning in with the celery. For lettuce prepare au ordinary lettuce s.ilad. Lay the pieces of chicken on top, and cover the whole with a layer of mayonnaise sauce (No. 606); decorate the surface with quflrtered hard-boiled eggs, anchovy fillets, olives, capers and beets; place some lettuce leaves around, and a tine lettuce heart in the center. CIdcJieniraijonnaise. — Cut into five pieces a roasted chicken weighing two pounds and a half, remove the skin and pare nicely. Season the chicken the same as for No. 2G'2o; two hours later toss it in the vessel with jellied mayonnaise (No. 613) and dre.ss it pyramidically without any green salad; cover with jelly mayonnaise, and garnish around with halved eggs, olives, capers, anchovies, beetroots and chopped jelly. (2626). MIGNON SALAD (Salade Mignonne). Pare four heads of endive or escarole that are not too large, suppress the outer leaves, and wipe the others well without wiishing them; cut either of these salads across in two parts, put the upper part of the leaves in a bowl, cut up the other half into large Juliennes, and season with salt, pepper and some fine oil. Cut in medium Jnlienne four peeled truffles cooked in wine, season them also with salt and oil, cut up the same as the truffles two brea.sts of chicken cooked in butter and lemon juice without attaining a color; let them get cold and lay them on a plate. Shell four hardboiled eggs, rub the yolks tlirough a sieve and set this in a bowl, diluting with some mayonnaise (No. 606), a good spoonful of mustard and a dash of vinegar; add one after the other, first the truffles, then the endives, and lastly the chicken breasts, all previously drained of their seasoning. Dress the salad in a salad bowl, and decorate the top with truffles, beetroot, gherkins and lobster coral. (2627). CHICKEN SALAD WITH VEGETABLES (Salade de Poulet aux Legumes). Cut up a large roast chicken into eight pieces, four from the breasts.and four from the legs, suppressing the pinions and carcass; remove the breast bone and the second joint bones, then cut the meats and the fillets each in two or three pieces, taking off the skin; put them in a vessel to season with salt, oil and vinegar. Prepare a maccdoine salad (No. 2650), cut in small dice: for instance, carrots and turMii)S blanched and cooked in stock (No. 194a), also green peas and string beans boiled in salted water. After all these vegetables have been cooked and drained lay them in a lx)wl and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; mix in some cut-up gherkins and beets.."»nd let macerate for one hour. Drain off the sea.sonings and finish with m.ayonnaise, slightly thickened with jelly (No. 606). Dress the chicken and the vegetables in a dome-shape on a cold dish; cover

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 820. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(2657). STEING BEAN SALAD (Salade de Haricots Verts). Have one pound of small string beans; if too large cut them lengthwise in two, and cook them in salted water in an untinned copper vessel; refresh them and drain. Put them into a salad bowl and season with salt and pepper, adding one tablespoonful of vinegar and three of oil. (2658). WHITE BEAN SALAD (Salade de Haricots Blancs). When the white beans are cooked the same as for No. 3701, and cold, put them in a salad bowl with a little shallot, chives and parsley, all finely chopped, and for each quart of beans add two tablespoonf uls of vinegar and si.K of oil, salt and pepper; stir well and serve.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 827. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(2659), CABBAGE SALAD-WHITE OR RED (Salade de Ohoux-Blancs ou Eouges). Have either a very fresh white or retl cabbage; suppress the outer leaves, also the hard parts and core; mince it up finely, and lay it in a bowl, sprinkle over some salt, and let macerate for one hour, then drain off its licjuid and season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. A cabbage salad, called cold slaw, is made by shredding the cabbage as finely as possible and seasoning it with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and tomato catsup. (2660). CELERY SALAD AND CELERY KNOB SALAD (Salade de Oeleri et Salade de C^leri Rave). Remove the first stalks, which are generally hollow, and put the good ones into a bowl of cold water; cut each stalk into pieces one inch and a half long, then divide these pieces into lengths the same as a large Julienne; wash well, drain and dry them thoroughly; season with salt, pepper, mustard, oil and vinegar. Celery Knob. — Choose these very tender, peel and cut them into thin round slices, set them in a bowl in layers, salting each one separately. One hour later pour off the water and season with oil, vinegar, ground pepper and mustard. Macerate for one hour in its seasoning, and then serve. (2661). CUCUMBER SALAD, ENGLISH STYLE (Salade de Concombres ^ I'Anglaise). Select the tenderest cucumbers, peel off the rind, slice the interior finely, and lay them in a dish, sprinkle ovejsome fine salt, and let macerate for fifteen minutes; season them, after straining oft" the licjuid, with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, adding some chopped parsley. English Style. — The same, only add a very finely minced onion. (2662). CUCUMBER AND TOMATO SALAD (Salade de Concombres et Tomates). The same as for English style, only adding very firm, finely sliced and peeled tomatoes as well as the onion. (2663). EGGPLANT SALAD, PROVENQAL (Salade d'Aubergines Provengale). Peel and slice some eggplant into quarter of an inch thick slices, pare it in rounds one and a quarter inches in diameter, lay them in salt for ten minutes, then sponge them off and season with pepper, garlic, oil and vingear; then add the same quantity of water cress and a few hard-boiled «ggs. (2664). GERMAN SALAD WITH CROUTONS (Salade Allemande aux Croutons). Blanch in boiling water one pound of sauerkraut for five minutes, refresh and add to it one pound of red cabbage previously pickled in vinegar. Cut up the sauerkraut to make the pieces shorter, and lay them in a bowl with three ounces of very fine chopped onions, blanclied and refreshed; add to this one ounce of grated horseradish and a tablespoonful of chopped chervil. Season with salt, pepper, si.x tiiblespoonfuls of olive oil and two of vinegar, and serve in a salad bowl with a ring of round croutons on top made of fragments of puff-paste (No. 146), one and a quarter inches thick, cut with a round pastry-cutter, then cooked in a very slack oven. (2665). ONION SALAD-BEEMUDA (Salade d'Oignons de Bermude). Mince the onions verjfinely, eitlier witli a linife or tlie machine, and season them with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. (2666). TOMATO SALAD (Salade de Tomates). To peel tomatoes throw them into boiling water; cut them in slices across and season with salt, pepper, vinegar and a little oil; arrange them in a salad bowl. (2667), TEUrrLE SALAD A LA GAMBETTA (Salade de Truffes a la Gambetta). Mince six fine peeled Piedmontese truffles, weighing eight ounces, put them into a bowl with three artichoke bottoms, previously cooked and cut into eight pieces. Rub through a sieve four hard-boiled egg-yolks, lay them in a bowl with two tablespoonfuls of mustard, work well together, then incorporate three gills of oil and tarragon vinegar; rub the bottom of a salad bowl with a clove of garlic, set the truffles in, and the artichokes over; cover all with some mayonnaise (No. 607), mixing in also some tarragon, chervil, chives and parsley, all finely chopped.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 827. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(2668), OHICOEY SALAD (Salade de OMoor^e). Select the chicory heads; having yellow hearts and very fine leaves; cut away all the green and wash the white part, drain and shake well in a napkin or wire basket to remove all the water. Season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar, chervil and tarragon, or, instead of these herbs use a piece of bread-crust after rubbing a clove of garlic over it. This piece of bread is called a capon. (2669), COEN SALAD OE LAMB'S LETTUCE SALAD (Salade de Mache ou Doucette\ This salad can be mixed with monk's Iteard and slices of cooked beetroot. It should be well picked and all the yellow leaves removed; clean the roots, cut them otT when too large, and divide the stalks into two or four parts; add cooked slices of beetroot and chopped chervil: season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar. Monk's beard may be mixed with it, half and half. (2670). DANDELION SALAD (Salade de Dent-de-lion). This salad takes the place of wild chicory, especially in winter, and by growing it in cellars it can be had very white and tender. Prepare and season it the same as monk's beard (No. 2674). (2671). ESOAEOLE AND ENDIVE SALAD (Salade d'EsoaroUe et d'Endive). Take the leaves when quite yellow, remove the hard parts, and split each leaf in the center its - entire length; it is always preferable not to wash these salads, as the leaves can be cleaned by wiping them. Season with salt, pepper, oil, vinegar and finely chopped chervil and tarragon. (2672). LETTUCE SALAD, PLAIN (Salade de Laitue, Simple). Choose freshly gathered and well-filled lettuce heads, suppress the hard leaves, keeping only the yellow ones; pick them off the stalks, retaining the heart whole, the size of an egg, and cut it in four. Split each leaf through the center, wash them at once, drain, wipe and shake the salad well to extract all the water, then place it in a salad bowl, sprinkling over some chopped chervil and tarragon. Put into a bottle four egg-yolks, two spoonfuls of vinegar and eight of oil, some salt and pepper; shake the seasoning up well in the bottle, and pour it over the lettuce, stirring it until it is properly mixed. (2673). LETTUCE AND ANCHOVY SALAD (Salade de Laitue aux Anchois). This is made with well washed and dried lettuce bj' shredding it up finely; season and lay it in a salad bowl, cover with a mayonnaise sauce (No. 606), decorated with fillets and anchovies, hard-boiled yolks and whites of eggs, and some finely chopped herbs. A lettuce salad may be served garnished with hard-boiled eggs and plenty of herbs. Lettuce salad may also be seasoned with sweet or sour cream instead of oil. (2674). MONK'S BEARD SALAD (Salade de Barbe de Oapucin). This salad is very much liked and is exceedingly wholesome. Clean it well by wiping the leaves with a towel — do not wash it; season with salt, pepper, oil and vinegar, adding a few slices of beetroot. (2675). COS LETTUCE SALAD (Salade de Eomaine). Remove all the green leaves until the yellow ones are reached; wipe each leaf well, and split them lengthwise, then cut into two-inch long pieces, continuing as far as the heart; split it in four; place in a salad bowl and season the salad with chervil, tarragon, all finely cut, egg-yolks (one egg for two persons) and dilute with eight spoonfuls of oil and two of ^'inegar; add salt, pepper and green mustard; mix well when ready to serve. The egg-yolks may be suppressed. (2676), WATER CRESS AND APPLE SALAD AND NONPAREIL [CHIPFONADE] SALAD (Salade de Cresson aux Pommes d'Arbre et Salade Nonpareil [Ohiffonade].) Have very clean and green water-cress; season it only when ready to serve with a very little oil, salt, pepper, vinegar and some sour apples cut in slices. Pepper water-cresses are prepared the same. Nonpareil {Chiffonade) Salad.— PlAce in the bottom of a bowl some seasoning composed of salt, pepper, oil and vinegar; mix well with a fork. Mince some lettuce very fine, also the same quantity of chicory and celery; dress dome-shaped in the bowl containing the seasoning. Chop up separately the whites and the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, and cut in three-sixteenths of an inch squares the same volume of Ijeets and potatoes. Divide the dome in four equal parts with anchovy fillets, garnish one of these parts with beets, one with the chopped egg-white, one with the chopped yolks, and the last one with the chopped potatoes; bestrew over all finely chopped truffles, parsley, lobster soral, and in the center place a nice Spanish olive.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 828. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Select artichokes of a medium size; remove the hardest leaves from the base, pare the bottoms well, suppressing all the green part, then cut off the tips of each leaf straight (see Fig. 543). Put them into a saucepan of boiling salted water and cook until the leaves detach, then drain, remove the choke, and washing them in their own liquor range them on a napkin bottom downward to have them drain thoroughly; serve at the same time either a white sauce (No. 562J or else a vinaigrette sauce (No. 634). Boiled and cold artichokes are served with a vinaigrette sauce. (2692), BOILED ASPAEAGUS WITH HOLLANDAISE, HOLLANDAISE MOUSSELINE OE VINAIGEETTE SAUCE (Asperges Bouillies a la Sauce HoUandaise a la Sauce HoUandaise

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 834. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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cut off the tops of some rolls or flutes, empty out all the crumbs, coat the inside with fresh butter and put them into the oven to color nicely. Turn and channel (No. 118) one pound of sound mushroom heads; wash them in clear water, then place in a saucepan with a small piece of butter, salt, lemon juice and a little water, boil for a few moments, keeping the vessel closed. Reduce some velout^ sauce (No. 415) with this mushroom liquid, add to it the mushrooms, remove at the first boil and thicken with four egg-yolks, a little cream and fresh butter; fill or cover the crusts with this and serve at once. For Mush7-oom and Truffle Crusts. — Prepare the same way, only adding minced truffles to the mushrooms; they may be colored in the oven by besprinkling the tops with bread-crumbs and cheese, pouring butter over, then set in the oveu for a few moments. (2760). MUSHEOOMS SAUTED WITH THICKENED BUTTER AND BROILED MUSHROOMS ON TOAST— MOUSSEEONS (Champignons Mousserons Sautes au Beurre Lie et Champignons

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 847. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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(2820), SPINACH WITH BECHAMEL SAUCE AND WITH CREAM (Epinards k la Bechamel et a la Or^me). Pick some fresh, tender spinach, using only the leaves; when well cleaned and washed in several waters plunge into boiling salted water, and blanch for five or six minutes; drain, refresh and press out every particle of moisture. Chop finely and put into a saucepan with hot melted butter. Season, place the saucepan on a brisk fire for a few moments without ceasing to stir until the moistening is reduced, and finish with two spoonfuls of thick bechamel (No. 409), and another piece of butter. With Cream. — After the spinach has been prepared as for the above, and thoi'oughly dried, add to it a little flour, moisten witli cream and stir constantly. Just when ready to serve incorporate a piece of fresh butter, then dress and garnish around with puff paste crescents or small bouchfes filled with bechamel (No. 411). (2821). SPINACH A LA NOAILLES (E'pinards a la Noailles). Carefully pick the spinach, removing the largest stalks; wash it.several times, changing the water, then blanch in anuntinned copper vessel with salted water, letting it boil incessantly. When the stalks are tender enough to crush under the pressure of the finger, drain the spinach in a coarse colander, refresh and drain again; press out all the water, pick over to remove any straws or other impurities and then chop it up; force this through a coarse sieve; place the pulp in a saucepan with a piece of butter, put the saucepan on the fire, stir continuously until the moisture is evaporated, then besprinkle with flour; moisten with.some thick veal blond (No. 423), adding a little meat glaze (No. 402), salt and nutmeg. A moment before serving stir in a t)iece of fresh butter. The flour can be replaced by some velout6 sauce (No. 415). (2822>. SPINACH A LA EOUGEMONT 'Epinards a la Eougemont). Have the spinach picked and prepared the same as for a la Noailles (No. 2821). Brown a piece of butter to hazel-nut (No. 507), put in the spinach, place the pan on a hot fire, stir continually until the spinach is consistent and the moisture evaporated; season with salt and nutmeg; thicken with espagnole sauce (No. 414), a little chicken glaze (No. 398), and fresh butter; dress it in a dome-form and decorate around with small bouchees of sweetbreads, mingled with very rich and thick financiere sauce (No. 464). (2823). SPINACH, ENGLISH STYLE (Epinards a I'Anglaise). Pick and w'ash the spinach in several waters; blanch it in an untinned copper vessel with boiling, salted water; drain well and cut it up without chopping; now put it into a saucepan on the fire, season with salt and pour it into a vegetable dish, cover with small bits of fresh butter, set on t-he cover and serve very hot. (2824), SQUASH-MARROW-WITH PARMESAN (Citrouille au Parmesan). Peel the squash and cut it into quarter-inch thick slices; from these remove twenty-four round pieces with an inch and a quarter diameter cutter; blanch, drain, and saute them in butter over a brisk fire, seasoning with salt and nutmeg; dress them in a circle, one overlapping the other, on a dish that is fit to be placed in the oven. Cut as much of the squash into five-eighths of an inch squares, blanch by dropping them into boiling salted water, continuing the boiling process for fifteen minutes, then drain and fry them in butter, salt over, and lay them in the center of the circle; dredge grated parraesan cheese on top, pour on some butter, and color in a hot oven; strew chopped parsley over the surface, and when serving squeeze the juice of a lemon over the whole. (2825). STRING BEANS A L'ALBANI (Haricots Verts a I'Albani). String some medium-sized tender beans; cut them into lozenges, aud boil in salted water placed in an untinned copper pan. Drain them off, saute in butter, and thicken with a little veloute (No. 41.i) and chicken glaze (No. 398), adding the juice of a lemon. Dress, bestrew with chopped jiarsley, and surround with triangular croutons (No..51), on which lay quartered artichoke bottoms sauted in butter, and mingled with meat glaze (No. 402) and lemon juice.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 857. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Make a risot (No. 739), mixing in with it some cooked ducks' livers cut in quarter-inch squares. Butter a plain, round-top border mold (Fig. 138), fill it with the risot, pressing it firmly; keep warm and uniuold just when ready to serve. Fill the center with scrambled eggs (No. 2940), mixing in some chopped trutfles. Garnish around the eggs with small escalops of foies-gras rolled in Madeira ' (2939), SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH FINE HERBS ((Eufs Brouilles aux Fines Herbes). Have some eggs scrambled the same as witli gravy (No. 2940); to avoid having lumps in them they should not be cooked excessively, and above all be well stirred; mix in one tablespoonful altogether of chopped parsley, chives and chervil. Should it be necessary to keep them any length of time before serving, then add a little good veloute sauce (No. 415). Surround with puff paste crescents baked in a slack oven. (2940), SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH GRAVY ((Eufs Brouillls au Jus). Break six eggs in a saucepan with two ounces of butter, a gill of cream or milk, and season with salt and pepper. Lay the.saucepan containing the eggs on a slow fire and stir by beating vigorously with a small wire whip (Fig. 154); as soon as theyattaina consistency, remove the saucepan from the fire and continue the same process for two minutes longer; when finished pour it out on a dish and surround by bread croiitons (No. 51) fried in clarified butter. Throw over some reduced clear gravy (No. 404), mixing a little meat glaze (No. 402) into it. (2941). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH LOBSTER, GARNISHED WITH VILLEROI OYSTERS ((Eufs Brouilles aux Homards, Garnis d'Huitres a la Villeroii. Add to some nearly finished scrambled eggs, prepared the same as for gravy (No. 2940), a salpicon of lobster cut in three-sixteenths of an inch dice. Dress the eggs when finished, smooth the surface and garnish around with Villeroi oysters (No. 69S), or else mussels or scallops. The lobster salpicon can be replaced by one of shrimps or of crabs. (2942). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS ((Eufs Brouilles aux Champignons), Prepare the scrambled eggs the same as with gravy (No. 2940); when almost done mix in a.salpicon of mushrooms cut in quarter-inch squares; dress and pour around a little Madeira sauce (No. 492) and surround with croutons of bread fried in butter (No. 51). 862 TIIE EPICUREAiSr. (2943). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SWEETBREADS (CEiifs Brouilles aux Eis de Veau). Braise some sweetbreads and then put them under a weight to cool; cut them up in quarterinch squares and warm in butter. Prepare some scrambled eggs the same as with gravy (No. 2940) and when nearly done add the sweetbreads and mix them in with the eggs. Dress on the center of a dish, pour around a little half-glaze sauce (No. 413) and surround with half-heart croiitons (small) of bread fried in butter (No. 51). The sweetbreads may be replaced either by unsmoked salted tongue, ham, or even thin pieces of smoked beef or squares of bacon fried in butter. (2944). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH SWISS AND PARMESAN CHEESE ((Eufs Brouilles au Fromage de Gruyfere et au Parmesan). Beat eight eggs lightly in a bowl, pour them into a saucepan having its bottom buttered with two ounces of fresh butter; season and thicken on a slow fire while beating unceasingly, and as soon as cooked incorporate an ounce of butter and two of grated parmesan. Remove it from the fire and then pour in a little good veloute sauce (No. 415) and raw cream; finish with a few spoonfuls of Swiss cheese cut in dice and softened in cold milk. Dress the preparation in a deep dish and surround with puff -paste crescents. Scrambled eggs maybe prepared with the Swiss cheese or with grated parmesan, mixing in three ounces of either. Surround with triangle-shaped bread croutons fried in butter (No. 51). (2945), SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TOMATO PUREE ((Eufs Brouillfe k la Purfe de Tomates). Select two or three good tomatoes; put them beside each other in a wire basket and plunge into boiling water for two minutes simply to scald and remove the skins; drain off and press through a sieve: should the puree be too thin put it on a hair sieve to drain, then warm and.season it. Scramble seven or eight eggs in a saucepan the same as for scrambled with gravy (No. 2940); when properly thickened remove and mi.K in the prepared puree; pour the whole into a deep dish. Sprinkle over with half-glaze (No. 400), using a brush, and surround with bread croiitons (No. 51). (2946). SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH TOMATOES AND CHIVES ((Eufs BrouilMs aux Tomates et^Ja

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 877. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Butter the interior of a timbale mold; decorate the sides with slightly sweetened noodle paste (No. 143); moisten the decorations and line the whole with foundation paste (No. 135). Cut the bottom with a three-inch pastry cutter, but do not remove this round piece. Blanch some macaroni in water, drain and finish cooking in broth (No. 194a), drain once more, then cut it into three-inch lengths; season with a very little salt, pepper, grated pai-mesan and a liberal piece of butter. Fill the timbale with this macaroni, leaving a hollow in the center Fig. 5?1. to be filled with a garnishing composed of truffles, foies-gras, game quenelles, unsmoked red beef tongue and mushrooms, all cut an eighth of an inch thick and three quarters of an inch long; these ingredients to be mingled with half-glaze (No. 409) made of essence of game (No. 389). Close the timbale with a cover of the same jiaste and cook in a moderate oven. A timbale containing two quarts will require an hour and a half to cook properly; invert it immediately on a dish, remove the round that was cut, replace it and serve. Instead of macaroni, noodles or lazag.nettes may be substituted, proceeding precisely the same. Send at the same time with the timbale beef a-lamode gravy, with tomato pulp, little meat glaze (No. 403) and brown sauce (No. 414). (2989). TIMBALE OF NOODLES A LA PEAESALL (Timbale de NouUles a la Pearsall). Make some noodle paste the same as for No. 142; roll it out a sixteenth of an inch thick and leave it dry sliglitly, then cut into very thin fillets and cook these in salted water for one minute; drain and season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, add six egg-yolks, a quarter of a pound of butter and a quarter of a pound of parmesan cheese. Garnish a timbale mold measuring five by five inches with foundation paste (No. 135), line the bottom and side with buttered paper, fill with rice, place a round of buttered paper on top, moisten the upper edge, cover over with a lid of jiaste and cook in a moderate oven for an hour. Unmold when cold, bread-crumb and egg over twice, mark it on the top half an inch from the edge and fry in white frying fat; remove the cover and empty out the timbale. Fry in butter one ounce of finely chopped onions with half a pound of minced mushrooms, add salt, pepper, nutmeg, meat glaze (No. 402) and tomato sauce (No. 549). Arrange the noodles in the timbale in layers separated with the mushrooms and grated parmesan. Pour over some gravy (No. 404) reduced with espagnole sauce (No. 414) and the timbale is ready to serve.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 887. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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soon as this occurs incorporate into it about four or five gills of good whipped cream; two minutes later add a small salpicon of candied pineapple and then pour the whole into the hollow of the. mold; replace the lid, covering it at once with more ice, and after the lapse of an hour dip the mold ciuickly into hot water, wipe and turn the cream on a cold dish. (3197). PAINS" OF STEAWBEEEIES WITH CEEAM-SipLL (Petits Pains de Praises h. la

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 900. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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soft, then stand for twenty-four hours in a warm closet. Arrange these rings on top of each other on a layer of frolle paste (No. 136) cut exactly the same dimensions, and cover each one with meringue made of cooked sugar (No. 140), to fasten them together; mask the entire inside with a thin layer of the same meringue; smooth it quickly and dry for two hours in a warm closet. After the meringue is quite cold cover it superficially with a brush dipped in reduced apricot marmalade (No. 3675), not having it too thick; dry this in the air, then decorate the upper ring with a chain of small rings a quarter of an inch thick made of lady flnger'paste (No. 3377), also to be covered with the marmalade. Fill the center of these small rings with quince jelly (No. 3672) or currant jelly (No. 3670). Slip the cake on a folded napkin and at the last moment cover with whipped cream flavored with vanilla (No. 50). (3265), VALENTINE CAKE WITH RUM (Gateau Valentin au Rhum). Crush one pound of almonds with one pound of sugar and three eggs; make it into a very fine paste; put it into a basin and dilute gradually with thirteen eggs and one gill of rum; beat well until perfectly light. Line a mold with very thin sweet paste (No. 136); fill it three-quarters full with the preparation and strew over some finely cut-up almonds. Bake in a very slack oven for three-quarters of an hour, then turn the cake out on a grate and allow to cool; when cold glaze with a light frosting flavored with rum. This cake can be kept for several months if wrapped in tin-foil and left in a dry cool place. 944 THE EFICUREAlSr.

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 900. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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Cakes ten to a pound. (3286), APPLE CAKE (Gateau aux PommesX Prepare a froUe paste (No. 136); keep it in a cool jjlace on ice for twenty minutes. Cut alx)ut fifteen good apples in four, peel, shred them small and cook partially, while tossing them over a brisk fire, in a pan with some butter, sugar and vanilla added, then set aside to cool. Roll out twothirds of the paste, not too thin, four inches wide and about the length of the baking sheet on a floured table; roll it over the rolling-pin to unroll on a baking sheet and cut it away straight; surround the edges with a narrow raised rim, and put in a moderate oven to half bake and leave till quite cold. Then fill the center with the cooked apples and finish exactly the same as the gooseberry cakes (No. 3309). (3287). APEICOTS WITH CREAM OP ALMONDS (Abricots h la Oreme d'Amaades). Line a few tartlet molds with fine foundation paste (No. 13.5); fill them level to the top with almond frangipane (No. 44), and lay a well-drained compoted half apricot (No. 3691; over each; bake in a moderate oven, and when done and partly cold dress an imitation apricot made of Italian meringue (No. T40J on top of each one. Place them again in the oven to dry the meringue, and then let cool. When cold glaze over with a yellow rum icing (No. 103), fasten a stalk of angelica into each, and rub each one with a little carmine on cotton to color it. (3288). BABAS WITH EUM-SMALL (Petits Babas au Ehum). Cut two ounces of candied fruits into small dice, such as citron, orange peel, preserved pears and a few cherries; add to them as many currants and raisins well washed in hot water, picked and cleaned. Prepare a small baba paste as described in No. 139, and when ready to mold stir in the fruits. Butter some small baba molds, fill them half full with the pa.ste. and leave to rise; when entirely full push into a hot oven to bake; unmold as soon as done, and dip them into a hot thirtytwo degree syrup well flavored with vanilla and rum (No. 103). (3289). BISCUITS IN CASES WITH CREAM (Biscuits en Caisses I la Cr^me). Choose eight fresh eggs; break the whites into a basin and the yolks into a bowl; into the latter mingle two ounces of powdered sugar flavored with grated lemon peel (No. 3165), and beat it up with a spoon until it becomes white; add a grain of salt to the whites, beating them very stiff, and mix them slowly with the yolks, sifting four ounces of good flour over the whole; lastly add a gill of well-drained whipped cream, and with this preparation fill some oblong paper cases (Fig..548) three-quarters full; range them on a thin baking sheet, glaze the surfaces with fine sugar, and cook for twenty -five minutes in a slack oven. (3290), BANANA BOATS (Bateaux de BananesL Line ten boat-shaped tartlet molds with sweet paste (No. 136), and cook them whit«. Peel ten small, ripe, short bananas, cut off both ends and plunge the fruit into a boiling twenty-five degree syrup; remove the pan at once from the fire, and let the bananas cool off in this.syrup, then drain. Coverthe insidesot the unmolded boats with apricot marmalade (No. 3675). and lay in each one half a banana, the rounded surface uppermost, brushing it over several times with vanilla apple syrup; garnish both sides with apple jelly (No. 3668).

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 900. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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"'Siiai^ be perfectly horizontal; for basket is made in two pieces; width and of ordinary thick glass; it must invariably be clean, and then filled slightly less than half full or a little lower than the circnmferenoe line of the sphere, with filtered water. Mix threequarters of very finely chopped ice with one-quarter of rock salt; range the bottles in a box sufficiently large to hold twenty, leaving an inch space between each; cover the neck of the bottle with a tinned copper cup, having a round bottom, or else with a specially made rubber cork (Fig. 620); cover entirely with salted ice, raising them all up so that the ice passes.slightly underneath each bottle; neglect of this precaution will break all the bottles in the box. Pack the ice around, cover the box with a hermetically closed cover, and an hour later raise up the bottles, one by one, and give each a rotary movement to hasten the freezing; withdraw all the superfluous water above two-thirds of the height of the ball of the bottle, and leave in again for an hour and a half to finish freezing; remove the faucet that keeps the water in the box, let this run out, and besides remove the corks from the necks of the bottles; when ready to serve lift them out, wash in cold water and fill with filtered ice water. (3434). PLAIN WATER SOCLES, COLORED (Socles d'ean Naturelle,

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 900. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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For ten persons put one quart of vanilla ice cream into a freezer and mix in with it three Italian meringue egg-whites (made with three beaten egg-whites and two gills of forty-degree syrup properly liquefied with coffee made with water). To make this coffee requires one quart of water to six ounces of coffee; add it to the cream when nearly firm so that it does not grain the punch, then put in a little brandy or kirsch. Another -way to make granite ])unch with coffee is to have four quarts of black coffee, one quart of cream, ten ounces of sugar, four gills of brandy and one quart of whiijped cream or Italian meringue. Freeze as the above. (3506). DOLGOROUSKI PUNCH (Punch k la Dolgorouski). For ten persons allow one quart of jjeach water ice (No. S602); beat it up well and incorporate in a third as much Italian meringue (No. 140), then mix in slowly a gill and a half of kirsch, and two gills of Cliquot champagne; with this i)reparation fill some natural water glasses, having the toottom of the glass red and the upper part white, made and frozen the same as American sherbet.

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(3555). JARDINIERE CUTLETS (Ootelettes Jardinilre). Blanch half a pound of rice, refresh and return it to the saucepan with a pint and a half of boiling cream, half a pound of sugar and the peel of half a lemon. Boil u]) once, push it into the oven for an hour, then remove and whip it well, adding a quart of cream; freeze and as the preparation takes body mix into it as much sweetened whipped cream as there is ice. Mold in cutletFiG. m~. shaped molds and when thoroughly frozen turn them out and dip each one in macaroon dust sifted through a fine sieve. Dress on a salpicon of fruit macerated in maraschino and thickened with aijricot marmalade (No. 3675) prepared with maraschino; trim the handles with frills (No. 10) and serve at once. (3556). LA GRANDINA (La Grandina). Coat some oval-shaped plaited paper cases with a part of the following ice: Whip together one pint of raspberries, the peel of one orange and the juice of three, also the juice of six lemons; tint this a beautiful pale red and boil, adding enough sugar to make a twenty-two degree syrup; strain through a tine sieve and freeze. When consistent and smooth add to it half as much whipped cream and two ounces of finely cut-up {WKVfit-r^ T~-^/t/irW^ citron peel; partly fill tlie inside of the cases with iced chocolate biscuit ^MAf^vmlnllllMlnJ preparation flavored with vanilla, into which mix pounded macaroons and a few roasted and indverized hazel-nuts; freeze for one hour, putting the cases in a freezing box and finish filling with the slightly bomb-shaped on top; decorate with whole cherries placed return to Fig. U.ss. raspberry ice, having it directly in the center; dredge the top with finely shredded pistachios; the freezing box and freeze for one hour. (3557). LEMONS IN SURPRISE (Citrons en Surprise). Pour a quart of fresh cream into a vessel, pound two ounces of sweet almonds and a few bitter almonds with twelve ounces of sugar; sift through a sieve and put it with the cream, adding two gills of maraschino and four ounces of candied fruits cut in quarter-inch squares; tint it to a soft pink, then freeze. With this cream fill some large lemons that have been emptied. Tie around with ribbons the same as Jihowu in Fig. 689. Fig. m). (3558). LEONA ICE CREAM (Glace L^ona). First prepare some natural ice glasses the shape of Fig. 690. (For preparing these glasses see No. 3434.) When they are all ready put them into a freezing box until serving time. Prepare some whipped cream (No. oO) flavored with marascliino and drain it on a sieve. Make an ice with half a pound of almonds, ground a few at a time, with half a pound of sugar and a pint of water, adding two gelatine leaves di.ssolved in two gills of water, and a gill of vanilla syrup; strain this through a fine tammy and freeze in.slightly salted ice; work well with the spatula, incorjwrating as much whipped cream and a salpicon of assorted fruits cut in quarter-inch squares, macerated in kirsch and drained. With this ice till some spiral-shaped molds and pack in ice. Half an hour later, just when prepared to serve, fill the glasses with the whipped cream. Unmold the ices, lay them over the cream and on top of each place a braudied cherry or one made of almond paste (No. 12.5j; serve at once. (3559). MACEDOINE CROQUETTES (Croquettes Macedoine) Mold in tins the size and shape of a medium croquette some burnt almond cream (No. 345.5), ranging e.xactly in the center some bi.scuits soaked in maraschino; Fig. 090. freeze for half an hour, then unmold and roll in pulverized macaroons sifted through a sieve. Have in an ice cream freezer all sorts of fresh or preserved fruits cut in quarter-inch squares; to them add lemon juice, maraschino and champagne; freeze with very litfle ice and when extremely cold drain properly and mix in whipped cream (No. 50); di-ess on saucers, laying the croquettes over, one or two on each saucer. (3560). MACEDOINE OF FRUITS AND ST. JACQUES CUPS (Macedoine de

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MacMoine. — Lay in a vessel one peeled banana cut in half-inch squares, one well-peeled orange having the meats lying between the intersections removed with a knife and all the seeds suppressed, a slice of pineapple half an inch thick cut in dice, four ounces of grapes, two ounces of strawberries or raspberries, four ounces of cherries, pears or peaches, half a gill of kirsch or maraschino and a little powdered sugar; mingle all together and keep it cold in a freezer with ice packed around; serve in a compote dish. St. Jacques Cup. — With this macedoine fill some wide champagne cups; cover the macedoine with kirsch or maraschino sherbert and serve (see Fig. 691). (3561). MADELEINE ICE CREAM (Glace MadeleineX Decorate a Madeleine mold (Fig. 692) with candied fruits; coat the inside with vanilla ice cream (No. 3458) and fill with hazel-nut ice cream (No. 3464) into which have mingled a salpicon of fruits and whipped cream. In the very center lay a little apricot marmalade (No. 3675); pack this mold in ice and freeze for two hours, unmold on a napkin and surround with fancy cakes; serve at the.same time a sauce made of whipped cream, vanilla ice cream and

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(3590\ BACCHUS (Bacchus). Bacchus represents wine and is the companion piece to the well, representing water. Molds oan be purchased already made for these ices. Bacchus' barrel is of chocolate ice cream (No. 3449) and Bacchus is of virgin orange cream (No. 3459); the foot on which the barrel rests is of pistachio ice cream (No. 3454). Mold quite full, close forcibly, having it completely filled, and freeze for an hour and a half; unmold on a water socle as represented in Fig. 715, being careful to have this piece to correspond with the other as regards its proportions. (3591). CANTALOUP IN SUEPEISE AND CANTALOUP MOLDED (Cantaloup en Sui-prise et Cantaloup Moule), In Surprise. — Take a handsome, fresh and very ripe cantaloup melon, make an opening on the top two and a half inches below the stalk, and on the l)ias, directing the tip of the knife toward the center; suppress all the ripe pulp from the inside, put back the cover and imbed this rind in salted ice. With the removed pulp make a melon water ice (No. 3603), color with a little red and yellow carmine to imitate the orange color of a cantaloup melon; with this fill the rind to represent the original melon, return it to the ice and freeze for two hours. Wlien well congealed it can be cut in slices; ma-ke the seeds of almond paste (No. 3633). A macedoine of fresh fruits with champagne and lemon water ice can also be substituted for the melon ice. Ifolded.— Melons may be molded in lead molds, having the shape of a melon, making the rind either of vanilla (,No. 34o8J or pistachio (No. 34.j4j and the center of orange water ice (No. 3605J or pineapple water ice (No. 3606); pack in ice and freeze for two hour.s. IJnmold and dress either on a water socle or folded napkin and on top of the melon range an artificial stalk and leaves. (3592). DELICIOUS WITH HAZEL-NUTS (Delicieux aux Noisettes). Lay half a pound of hazel-nuts taken from their shells on a baking sheet, roast in the oven, peel to suppress the red skins, then pound with two gills of cream: set this in a basin with twelve raw egg-yolks and twelve ounces of sugar; whip all together and dilute with a pint of milk which has had a quarter of a vanillastick infused in it. Cook the preparation without boiling till it covers Fig, the spatula well, leave stand until cold, then add a pint of fresh cream; freeze. When the cream has a proper consistency mix in two quarts of well-drained whipped cream (No..50). Pack a two-quart mold on ice, fill it with the composition and freeze for two horn's; uumold on a folded napkin, on top set a spun sugar ornament and surround with scooped-out oranges refilled with two differently tinted jellies, white and red, laid in streaks, cooled and then cut in six or eight separate parts; surround the base with small strawberries having fresh leaves attached. (3593). FEUIT BASKET WITH DOVES (OorbeUle Jardiniere aux Colombesl Make the stand representing a basket in two parts of colored water, with a hole in the center of each; when this stand has been frozen place it on tlie middle of an oval board thirteen inches long by nine and a half inches wide, having a half-inch diameter hole bored through the center; keep the whole firmly together and very straight with a nut-screw five to six inches long, screwing it in verj' tight. Have two cylindrical molds with bottoms, fill them with water and freeze; iinmold and place them on the center line at one-third of the length of the stand; on each of these columns set a dove, imitating the eyes with a dry currant, and fasten a cherry-colored ribbon around his Fig. 718. neck; decorate all around with fruits molded in various ices and dipped in hot water to unmold; put them in the freezing box or cave and freeze; afterward color them lightly and stick into them stalks with their respective leaves. All these ice cream pieces should be dressed at the last moment and tlien served at a dinner table or sideboard supper. (3594). HEN WITH CHICKS; NEST WITH EGGS (Poule Avec Poussins; Nid Garni d'CEufs). Prepare a sponge cake stand (No. 3360; or one of wood or office paste (No. 143), eleven and a quarter inches long by eight and a quarter inches wide; cover it with coffee or chocolate icing. Fig. 719. Make a nest of spun sugar, on which place here and there small bits of angelica; in the center set the stand. Mold the hen in burnt almond ice cream (No. 3455), spotted over with coffee, chocFlG. 720. olate, vanilla, etc., to imitate the different shadings of the bird. Pack it in ice and freeze for one hour; unmold and dress it on the stand, surrounded with small chicks, made also of ice cream, the same as the larger one. \*i-l-i

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(3608). ICED CHOCOLATE (Chocolat Glacl). Dissolve a pound of sweet chocolate in a quart of water with half a bean of vanilla; when cold stir in a quart of cream, then strain through a fine sieve. Another way is to take a pound of sweet chocolate, half a pint of water and half a vanilla bean; when the chocolate is all dissolved and cold mix into it three pints of cream and a gill of thirty-two degree syrup; strain through a sieve and put it into a freezer with lightly salted ice around, and serve in glasses. (3609). ICED OOFEEE (Caf6 (Jlace), Black Coffee. — Iced coffee, as it is called in New York, is simply black coffee cooled la a china freezer, having lightly salted ice placed around. Mixed Coffee. — Mixed coffee is prejjared the same, only mixing the whole of the following ingi'edients together: One pint of milk, one gill of cream, one quart of black coffee and one gill of syrup at thirty-two degrees. Put the mixture into a china or enameled freezer with lightly salted ice around, and serve when the coffee is exceedingly cold. Brandy Coffee. — One quart of black coffee, six ounces of sugar, one gill of brandy; to be mixed and cooled the same as the black coffee. Iced Coffee in Sherbet. — Have one quart of black coffee mixed with one quart of cream and twelve ounces of sugar; place it in a freezer with salted ice around, detach from the sides as fast as the ice adheres, and when sufficiently cold and firm serve in glasses. (3610). GRAMOLATES OR GRANITE WITH ORANGE (Gramolates ou Granit a I'OrangeX Pufin a vessel one quart of fifteen-degree syrup, the juice and peels of three oranges; cover over and leave infuse for one hour; add the juice of four lemons and a little orange vegetal carmine; strain through a silk sieve and freeze. Peel three oranges to the pulp, remove the pulj) by passing the knife near each section and lay the pieces in a bowl with a very little sugar and kirseh; steep for half an hour then add it to the ice and serve in glasses. (3611), GRANITE IN WATER BOTTLES WITH CURRANTS, CHERRIES, POMEGRANATES, ETC (Granits en Carafes a la Groseille, aux Cerises, Grenades, etc). Granites are made the same as water ices, flavored with any desired fruits, the sole difference being that they must not be worked and must only attain fourteen degrees of the saccharometer; when the composition is ready pour it in water bottles having very wide necks; pack these in ice with half as much salt as for ordinary ices. Detach from the sides with a small boxwood spatula. Serve in the same decanters or else in glasses. (3612). GRAPE FRUITS A LA MADISON (Poncires k la Madison). The grape fruit is a species of large yellow orange, resembling the Florida orange; it is slightly bitter. Select those that are not too large, cut them across in two, empty the insides, keejiing it all in a vessel, and notch the edges of the peel in jioints; remove the small rounds from the center and then pkce them to cool in a freezing-box. Prepare a mixture the same as orange punch. Russian style (No. 361.3), the only difference to observe being that all the fruit juice must be used; bring to twelve degrees and let cool to a granite (No. 3611), then serve in the prepared peels. loas (3613), OEANGE PUNCH, EUSSIAN STYLE-UNFROZEN COLD DEINK (Punch Orange a la Eusse— Boisson Froide non Gelee), Slit open with a tin tube an inch and a half in diameter the top of eight oranges on the side opposite to the stalli, empty them out entirely, wipe neatly and set them in low paper eases to keep them level. On the round piece removed from the orange fasten two long straws, tying them together with a rilibon passed through two holes. Put these oranges for at least two hours beforehand in a box and pack with ice and very little salt, not to freeze the rinds. Place in a freezer one pint of orange juice obtained from the pulp of the emptied oranges and strained through a fine strainer, add to it two gills of water, six ounces of sugar, a Fig. 737. gill of rum, half a gill of kirsch, the peel of two oranges and the juice of four lemons; flavor it properly, either by adding or removing any of the ingredients; strain the whole through a very fine silk sieve and freeze with ice and a little salt. Just when ready to serve fill the oranges and serve them at once. The straws are used for drinking the contents of the orange.

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(3628). BASKETS TILLED WITH CANDIED FRUITS, OR ICE CREAM FRUITS (CorbeiUes Gamies de Fruits, ou de Fruits en Glace), Take some ordinary nougat (No. 3631) and roll it out to a quarter of an inch in thickness: from it cut a round ten inches in diameter. Prepare twenty-one wires, each five inches long, coat them with a layer of colored pulled sugar (No. 8618) three-sixteenths of an inch thick and fasten them to the rouud of nougat at half an inch from the edge, leaving an inch sjiaee between each one. Have some pulled sugar, either white or colored; imitate a rope and arrange it.^.round the base of the basket; pull some more sugar and roll it into strings a quarter of an inch thick and three feet long; make a braid of this sugar the same as a wicker basket going in and out of the wires, continuing as far as the top, finishing the whole with another rope the same as the bottom. >[ake the handles two and a half inches in diameter with the same sugar and pass them through rings fastened with sugar cooked to "crack (No. 171). Inside the upper part of tlie basket arrange a nougat foundation and cover it either with candied fruits, fresh fruits or else those made of ice cream or water ice. (3629), PERRETTE'S BASKET (Le Panier de Perrette). Have some nougat made of chopped almonds (No. 3631): roll it out to a quarter of an inch.; thickness and cut it into an oval nine by five inches. Have sixteen pieces of wire, each six incl: '-■ long; cover all of them with a three-sixteenths of an inch layer of pulled and colored sugar (K.i 3618); bond each one separately while the sugar is still hot, then fasten them around the noug.t oval, an inch from the border; spread the wires outward on loi). Malce a ropeof pulled whitesu^ar. place it around the bottom of the basket; roll some more pulled sugar into quarter-inch diameter strings and braid it around the wires, finishing the top with another braid of pulled sugar. In the center fasten a sufficiently large handle, cover it with flowers and leaves made of pulled sugar and at one end tie a pretty satin ribbon bow three inches in width and of a color harmonizing with the basket. Put a nougat bottom inside the basket at two-thirds of its height, then fill up with chestnuts made of chestnut paste iced over with chocolate, or else ice cream in imitation of mushrooms, strawberries, etc. (3630). BASKET WITH CHEREIES (Panier de Cerises). To begin this basket first have an oval board ten and a half inches long by six inches wide; all around this oval bore holes a quarter of an inch in diameter and one inch apart from each other. Cut as many pieces of wjre four and a half inches long as there are holes perforated in the board; straighten and envelop them in cooked sugar to form into sticks three-sixteenths Fio. !Ji;. of an inch thick. After these sticks are cold dip the ends of each one.separately in melted sugar and fasten them in the holes in the board. Now prepare some pulled sugar as described in No. 3618; take a little of this at a time and pull it into strings a quarter of an inch thick, and with these braid the basket as high as the top of the sticks. Pull two sticks with the same sugar, only slightly thicker than those used for braiding the basket and a little longer than half the circumference of the basket; fasten these two sticks together and twist them so as to imitate a thick rope; flatten this jiartly and fasten it at once on half of the edge of the basket, then pull two more sticks the same as the others, twist them tlie same way to obtain another thick rope, flatten it also and fasten it to the other half of the basket's edge. To make the handle pull three strings of sugar the same thickness and twenty inches long, braid them together and as soon as this is done bend the plait so as to shape the handle and when it is cold attach it to the basket. The two covers are made as follows: Pull two strings of sugar five-sixteenths of an inch thick, and bend each one so as to form a frame the shape and size of the opening of the basket, then pull more strings and while tliey are still hot fasten them diagonally on to these frames, and on top of these fasten others, crossing them in such a way that they form a lattice work. When these covers are finished attach them solidly against the handle of the basket. Trim around the base of the basket with a wreath of leaves, either gilded or silvered, arranging them symmetrically. Fill the basket tastefully with cherries made of almond paste (No. 125) and leaves of pulled sugar. (3631), "BON VOYAGE" BOAT SEEVED AT A FAEEWELL DINNEE (Bateau "Bon Voyage,"

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10-45 could then be imitated by thin sheets of mica or gelatine, and the base of gum paste covered with royal icing (No. 101). Or, the ambitious workman can imitate with gum paste, a miller, a bag on his shoulder, going up the stairway, or two peasants eating and drinking, or a peasant woman with children around her, and many other subjects of country life and customs. (3639a). THE PEOLIFIG TREE (L'Arbre Prodigieux). In order to make a tree two feet in height cut the wires varying from four to fourteen inches in length. Prepare some nougat with chopped almonds (No. 3621), incorporating sufficient cocoa to color it brown; roll out enough of this to be able to cut out a piece a quarter of an inch thick, sixteen inches long and seven inches wide in the part intended for the base and slightly narrower for the top. Wrap this piece of nougat around a wooden support in imitation of the truuk of a tree and leave to cool; coat the wires with nougat proportionately thick according to their length, and thicker on the ends that are to be attached to the trunk; bend them as soon as covered to shape them into knotty and irregular boughs, and leave to cool. Color some white nougat (No. 3622) a pistachio green, roll it out on a marble to a quarter of an inch in tliickness, and from it cut a round bottom ■ sixteen inches in diameter, then attach it to a board of the same size. At two inches from the edge fasten the trunk of the tree on solidly and decorate it with the boughs, having the heaviest attached to the trunk, and the lighter ones attached to these. Melt some cooked sug!h-, mix in a little cocoa and chopped almonds, and with a knife coat over the trunk and the branches to imitate the bark and the roots at the foot of the tree. Pull some dark green-colored sugar, a very little at a time, and with it form leaves as described in No. 3618; trim the Immches with these, and also with cherries made of almond paste (No. 12.5) and glazed, or else substitute jiears or little apples, or better still green almonds, but any imitated fruit can be used. Place a ladder against the tree, made of wire covered with chocolate-colored sugar, and on this stand a small image to represent a cupid stealing the fruit, and at one side another eupid receiving the picked fruit. Make these figures of gum paste (No. 3624). Make the boughs and bushes around the foot of the tree of pulled sugar (No. 3618;, also the rope that surrounds it. These trees can be varied as regards both size and subject. One or more trees can be arranged on a single board without any figures or subjects. (3640). CANDYING, COLD AND HOT (Candi k Proid et a Chand). Cold. — This mani;er of candying is specially adapted for bonbons. Put some lump sugar in a copper pan, pour over sufficient water to dissolve it, and as soon as this takes place set it on the fire to cook to thirty-five degree.s; when the.sugar has attained this degree take the pan from the fire and stand it in a basin or any other receptacle filled with cold water; cover the sugar with a round of paper, and leave stand till cold. Now pour it into the candy pans containing the pieces to be candied; put in a dry place in a moderate temperature and leave for twelve to eighteen hours; drain off the syrup and place the candied pieces on a grate to dry. Hot. — This manner of candying is used specially for candying preserved fruits. Cook some syrup to thirty-six degrees; leave rest for one instant, then pour it into the candy pans, havingthe fruits already arranged therein; place the pan in a heater, having it moderately hot, and remove only after six or seven hours, or when the fruits are all coated. (3641). TO CAST IN STAECH (Pour Couler h I'Amidon). To cast in starch wooden boxes are required twenty inches long, fourteen inches wide and three inches deep. Fill tlieso boxes with very dry starch to a quarter of an inch from the top; stir about with a small whip to have it light, then smooth neatly with a ruler; now imprint into it with small plaster molds fastened on to a second ruler at some distance apart, burying them in the starch until tlie ^>^ ruler touches the edges of the box. Should these small molds have a channeled surface or deeply imprinted designs, then before lifting them out of the starch rap the ruler lightly on top to have an}' of the starch that may adhere fall away. Care must be taken to sift the starch Pio, 759. from time to time to rid it of any lumps or grains of sugar that may have formed therein. To cast the sugar use a funnel in the center of which is a rod terminating in a ball that fits the outlet of the funnel accurately. This rod is moved up and down by means of a horizontal lever and a spring which are fastened to the handle of the funnel.

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Cheese is served either after the roast, before the sweet entremets, or else with the dessert; the first is most appropriate. Cheese must be accompanied by crackers or very thin slices of toast; it should be cut in pieces or slices. At a dinner it is better to have two kinds handed to the guests, with fresh butter; serve salted almonds and nuts at the same time. Stilton must be served whole wrapped in a plaited napkin; it should be scooped out with a cheese spoon and each time it is used the vacuum should be filled with sherry wine; it must always be kept sufficiently damp to prevent cracking. Chester should he served the same as Stilton in a plaited napkin, after paring it neatly; it should also be cut with a spoon and filled each time with good Madeira wine. For Brie, Camembert, Mont-d'Or or Pont Leveque: scrape any of these cheeses and serve with a silver knife for each guest. For Roquefort and Gorgonzola carefully suppress the outer rinds and serve with silver knives; pass around at the same time some fresh butter. Strachino and Millanais are serve in a plaited napkin folded to resemble a tulip; scoop out with a cheese spoon the same as Stilton. Holland cheese should be cut in quarters or slices. Neufchatel should be scraped and served whole. Swiss cheese, Eidam, Munster, Port Salut and Briquebee are cut in slices. They must be chosen very mellow, cleaned and served with silver knives. Gervais is a sort of fresh bondon, the paste being very fine; it must be served quite cold. It should be covered with paper, to be removed when sending to the table. (3698). CEEAM CHEESE (Fromage a la Cr^me). Put two quarts of milk into a vessel and keep it in a cool place until it curdles, then pour this curdled milk on a hair sieve to drain, and pass it through the same sieve, standing over a deep vessel; add to it a little salt and half as much firmly beaten, unsweetened whipped cream. Take some neart-shaped tin molds, perforated with small holes, each mold one inch deep and three and a half inches long; line them with pieces of muslin and fill with the above: place these in the ice-box for two hours. When ready to serve invert on a plate, lift off the muslin and serve, accompanied by some thick and very cold cream. (3699), ERESH rRHITS (Eruits Tmis\ Choose ripe fruits; arrange them either in baskets, fruit stands or plates garnished with green grape leaves and fresh moss. The base must be solid so that when earned tliey will not be dislodged; place the handsome part of the fruit on tlie outer side. Early fruits are always appreciated as they foretell those that are to follow in their season. Fruits for dressing are apricots, pineapples, pears, peaches, oranges, lady apples, grapes, cherries and strawberries. In case no fresh green leaves are procurable, use artificial ones made of muslii led in wax. If a pineai)ple is to be arranged in the center of a basket, stand it on a care. i > inder four inches high by three inches in diameter. All fruits to be found in New York ■ nated on the table for the (lifferent seasons (see page 17). Dry fruits consist of almonds, i s, dates, and innumerable others. CHOCOLATE, COFFEES, KACAHOUT, TEAS, ETC. (Chocolat, Cafes, Eacahout,

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(3700). CHOCOLATE (ChocolatX Have good, fine vanilla chocolate; dissolve it in a tin saucepan, or better still in a chocolate pan as shown in figure, using the mixer to dissolve it, over a slow fire, using a pound of chocolate for a quart of water. When well dissolved strain it through a fine wire sieve and serve in a chocolate pot with a jug of hot water, and one of milk and sugar. Some persons prefer whipped cream in their chocolate. Serve brioches, grissinis, biscuits and other fancy breads. Fig. 760. same time (3701). HOW TO MAKE COFFEE (Maniire de Fairs le Cafa The best-known coffee-pot is the one with a filter, of which a design is shown (Fig. 763). They are to be had of various sizes and more or less luxurious. To obtain a limpid infusion quickly place the ground coffee in the cylinder on top of the coffee-pot, then jiut in the strainer on top of the coffee, press it down and pour boiling water over so that the infusion runs slowly down into the pot. While the infusion filters the colfee-pot should be kept in a vessel containing hot water to the depth of two fingers so that the infusion attains the same degree of heat without allowing it to boil. For the sake of economy, after the infusion is made, the grounds can be boiled up once more and an infusion prepared with it to take the place of plain water, but, in order to obtain a good result, the grounds must first settle, then the water be poured off, strained and heated to boiling point. In this way less coffee can be used ■without deteriorating from its excellence. Use one and a half pounds of Java coffee, a pound and a half of Maracaibo, one pound of Mocha and seven gallons of water. The best way to obtain good coffee is to make it only when required; the maxim should be " little and often." It takes three kinds of coffee to obtain a good result; for instance, Mocha for the aroma, having it only slightly roasted, Maracaibo for the color, which should be well roasted, and Java for the strength, roasted to a degree between the other two. Fig a very fine (3702). TURKISH COFFEE (Caf6 a la Turque). To be made with the same proportion of Java as Mocha, ground and passed through sieve. Put ordinary black coffee in a coffeepot, as many cups as needed, and add for each cup a common coffeespoonful of coffee passed through a sieve, also a lump of sugar; stand it on the fire or gas stove, boil for two minutes, then take it off and pour in a little cold water to settle the coffee; let stand again for a few minutes. Serve powdered sugar with the (3703). ARABIAN EACAHOUT (Eacahout des

From The Epicurean, 1894, page 900. Read from the scan by computer, so a word may be off; the page itself shows the original.

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pounds of finely pounded ice with a pound and a half of rock salt, not too coarse: fill the pail to the top, mix well together and turn the bottle by the neck to give it a backward and forward movement from right to left. If the champagne be taken from the ice-box where it has been lying for several hours, then it will only take twelve to fourteen minutes to freeze, but if it has not been previously on ice, then it will require fifteen to eighteen minutes for ihe operation. Champagne can be frozen without turning it around by leaving it in the salted ice for half an hour before serving. Machines are sometimes used which simplify the work greatly; the same time is required, only the labor is loss fatiguing. When finished serve in a metal silver-plated pail with salted ice around. These are to be placed either on the table or on a small side table. (3711). APPETIZERS AND MIXED DRINKS (Aperitifs at Boissons M^langees). Iced drinks are those to which plenty of ice is added, then covered with a tin shaker and shaken until the contents are very cold and iced. Cold drinks are those mixed into chopjjed ice with a spoon. A glass of vermuth equals half a gill and is the glass meant in the recipes when not otherwise specified. Five small glassfuls equal a gill. Six dashes fill a teaspoon. Vermuth CnrMail. — Put some fine ice into a large glass, add a glassful of Italian vermuth and one dash of Boker's bitters; mix the whole together with a spoon, strain and.serve in small glasses. Another kind of vermuth cocktail is made by replacing the Italian vermuth by French vermuth, and having orange bitters instead of Boker's. Sherry and Bitters.— Sherry into which a little bitters is mixed. Brandy, Whiskey, Holland Oin and Tom Gin Cocktails. — Put some very finely broken ice in a large glass, add a glassful either of brandy, whiskey or Holland gin, one dash of Boker's bitters. 106G THE EPICUREAlSr. and two dashes of sweetening (gum syrup); mix well together with a spoon, strain and serve in small glasses. Tom gin cocktail is made exactly the same, only using old Tom gin and suppressing the sweetening. Calisaya Cocktail. — Mix in a large glass some finely chopped ice, a vermuth gla.ssful of calisaya, one dash of orange bitters and a little vermuth; mix well, strain and serve in small glasses. Peruvian Cocktail.— Add to some finely chopped ice in a glass, a vermuth glassful of Peruvian bitters, one dash of orange bitters and a little vermuth; mix thoroughly, strain and serve in small glasses. Marline Cocktail. — Have some broken ice in a large glass with the third of a glassful of Tom gin and two-thirds (making a glassful in all) of vermuth, and one dash of Bokers bitters; mix well, strain and pour into small glasses. Mauliattan Cocktail. — Place some very finely broken ice in a large glass, add the third of a glassful of whiskey and two-thirds of vermuth, also one dash of Boker's bitters; mix properly, strain and serve in small glasses. Jersey Cocktail Iced. — For three cocktails jjut into a vermuth glass some apple jack and two glassfuls of Italian or French vermuth, adding three dashes of Angostura bitters and finely pounded ice. Cover with a tin shaker, toss, strain and pour into small glasses. Absinthe Cocktail Iced. — Put some finely chopped ice in a large glass, add a small glassful of absinthe, two dashes of orange bitters and two dashes of sweetening; mix properly, cover with a shaker, toss, strain and serve in small glasses. Iced Absinthe. — Have some finely chopped ice in a large glass, add a small glassful of absinthe and water, cover with a tin shaker, toss thoroughly, strain and serve in medium-sized glasses. Riding Club Cocktail. — Put some finely broken ice in h glass with two-thirds of a glass of Hostetter's bitters, half a teaspoonful of Horsford's acid phosphate, two dashes of French vermuth; cover with a tin shaker and toss until the cocktail is iced, then strain and pour into small glasses. For all cocktails a piece of lemon peel is generally twisted over the cocktail. (3712). OLAEET CUP AND OLAEET CUP A LA WILLAED'S. Sweeten a pint of claret to taste, add to it one gill of maraschino or Curafoa, one pint of soda water, a few mint leaves, fresh strawberries or raspberries and pieces of pineapple. Cucumbers or borage leaves may be added. A la Willarffs. — Crush one pound of strawberries, add four spoonfuls of powdered sugar, the juice of one lemon, a pint of whipped cream and a bottleful of soda water. (3713), LEMONADE OE WITH SYEUP AND OEANGEADE (Limonade, Limonade au Sirop et

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Following will be found several plates taken from works of the last century. I have thought them sufficiently interesting to publish and even to have them made use of, that is by modifying the models; for instance, replacing the colored sand beds by those of arabesques of flowers or grass; the marble statues by bronzes, the trees by graceful potted plants and the center by handsome ornamental sugar pieces. The following cuts will give a correct idea of how these tables were dressed. The center of the table was decorated with "dormants" or looking-glass platforms; on these were placed ornaments made by cutting out cardboard arabesques (see plate 1). The edges of these cardboards were trimmed with green chenille fastened on with green wax; this chenille filled up any vacant space that might occur between the cardboard and the looking-glass. The center B is decorated with a balustrade shown in the design on the top of the page. The center of this is a square flower-bed, in the middle of which a figure generally stood, and the remainder of the bed is decorated around with variegated colored sand; to meet this balustrade is a gum-paste border garnished with small fancy cakes or dried fruits. There must always be a space two feet wide left between the platform and the edge of the table. The designs A and C are decorated wil h beds the same as B, having also a figure in the center. In ease of large tables these " dormants " or platforms were made in sections. Plate II. — Represents a table already dressed, taken from a work published in 1768. PLl.\te III.^A table laid with the dessert, decorated with colored sand arabesques. Plate TV. — Represents a more modern horseshoe-shaped table; this design being frequently used for large society dinners and banquets. This form of table is very convenient, as the president is seated in the center of the rounded part and the two principal officers at the ends; on the right of the president, the most honored guest; on his left, the one next in distinction and so on, alternating from right to left for the guests or members of the society. No high center pieces or other tall ornaments should be placed before the president, merely a basket of natural flowers or one of pulled sugar flowers. On the length of the table and in the center or middle line can be placed several high pieces, candelabras, epergnes, etc., all around, sixteen inches from the edge. Arrange the plates and glassware at the usual distances, w-ith two forks on the left, one for fish and another for the entrees; on the right have a knife, a soupspoon, a butter knife and an oyster fork, butter and salt in front, and around arrange the glasses for water, Burgundy, port, champagne, Sauterne, and sherry. The space between each place is twenty-four inches for those seated straight and twenty-two for those on the curve. Before each plate set a chair and on the plate a folded napkin containing a roll; in front a card with the number and name written on of the person who is to occupy the seat. This is a short synopsis of the manner of arranging a horseshoe-shaped table. Plate V.— Represents divers ornaments used for decorating a table the same as Plate I. The design D represents the palace of Circe, who metamorphized Ulysses' companions into swine. E F are statues to stand at each end; G are pedestals with vases on top; placed around the beds of sand or flowers and between each pedestal is a tree as shown -in H. The looking-glass " dormant " or platform can be left undecorated. M may be used instead of the temple for a small table. Plate VI.— Figure No. 1 represents a border around the dormant made of gum paste; No. 2 platforms to place the dried fruits and nuts on; No. 3 flower befls; No. 4 the position for the trees; No. 5 for pedestals having grass around each one; No. 6 represents mounds of earth to stand figures on, and all the intervening empty space is to be of looking-glass, or else of sand, according to taste. (1069) arm □CO

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line sauce 818 — Countess style — heads 818 — in small bunches — heads 819 — tops a la Maintenon 819 — tops a la Miranda — fried 819 — tops with cheese 819 Aspic essence — hot 290 — of cocks'-combs and kidneys a la Mazarin 733 — of foies-gras 733 — of foies gras — small (Fig. 446) 724 — of foies-gras in terrine — whole (Fig. 447) 734 — of lobster (Fig. 448) 735 — of oysters 725 — of partridge — minion fillets (Fig. 449). 725 — of pheasant 726 ■ — of pullet a la Cussy 736 — of quails — breasts 727 ■ — of tongues a la Picquart (Fig. 450).... 737 — of veal, Macedoine artichokes — kernel 738 — of shrimps — small 728 Attereaux of beef palate (Fig. 314) 368 — of chicken a la D'Antin 368 — of fat liver 368 — of oysters, 369 — Piedmoutese 369 — of sweetbi-eads a la Moderne 369 — ■ of turkey or game 369 Baba (see cakes) 933 — paste 201 — with Marsala; preparation of fruits.. 876 — with rum — small 948 Bacon, smoked, with spinach, English style 569 Bakery (Plate) 969 Ballotines of lamb, cupola-shaped 739 — quails a la Tivolier 739 — squabs a la Madison (Figs. 452, 453). 730 Bananas, cherry sauce, fried 87G Baskets filled with candied or ice cream fruits 103r, — of nougat with cream (Fig. 587) 903 lUO

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— black, aiguillettes, with oyster crabs. 427 — black, with sweet peppers 427 — red; water fish 428 — sea, a la Villeroi 428 — sea, with almond butter 428 — striped, 11 la Bercy — rock bass(Flg.285) 428 — striped, si la C'oiiti 429 — striped, a la Lagiiipierre 429 — striped, a la Long Branch 429 — striped, a la Maintenon 429 — striped, a la Manhattan, or sea bass.. 781 — striped, a la JIassena — whole 429 — striped, a la Mornay 430 — striped, il la Kouennaise 430 — striped, a la Whitney 430 — striped, boiled, Hollandaise modern — striped, shrimp sauce with fried scallops 430 — striped, with fine herbs 430 — striped, with white wine — baked 431 Bastion a TAmericaine (Fig. 454) 732 Bateaux of fat livers, Russian style 369 Batters, frying 203 Bavai'ois, chocolate 909 — in surprise 909 — raspberry 909 — vanilla 909 — with chestnuts 910 — with meringues 909 Bararoise (drink) 283 Beans, fresh, with cream and English style 819 — Lima or kidney beans, raaitre-d'hotel. 819 — red, smothered 820 — string, a I'Albani. 841 — string, a la Bourguignonne 842 — string, a la Pettit 842 — string, marinated 366 — string, smothered 842 — string, with butter 842 — white, Bretonne 820 — white, thickened, maitre-d'hotel 820 Bear st<>aks. broiled 637 Beef, American and French cuts (Figs. 803, 303, 304) 473 — baron, a la St. George 471 — brains (see calf's brains) 507 — breast or brisket, a la Florence 471 — breast, corned, with cabbage 471 — corned, round bottom, top, English — corned, pressed — cold 783 — edge or aitchbone boiled, cream horseradish sauce, 474 — grenadins (see tenderloins) 489 — hash, corned beef, American style... 693 — kidneys (see veal kidneys) 517 — Ktilash a la Finnoise 474 — marrow bones on toast 474 — minions ^see tenderloin) 491 Beef noisettes (see tenderloin) 493 — oxtails (see oxtails) 474 — palates a la bechamel 475 — palates Chevreuse — baked 476 — palates escalops with puree of chestnuts (Fig. 422) 690 — palates in tortue 476 — ribs a la Bristed 476 — riljs a I'Hindostan 476 — ribs, American style — thirty - two pounds 477 — ribs — cold (see ribs of beef) 733 — ribs, old style 477 — ribs, spare, deviled 477 — round buttock top a la mode, Parisian — round buttock top, baked 477 — round buttock top, stuothered 477 — rump, a la Boucicault.... 478 — rump, a la Careme 478 — rump, a la Chatellier 479 — rump, a la mode, Boargeoise style... 479 — rump, Flemish style 479 — rump, Greek style; stuffed tomatoes.. 479 — rump, Jardiniere 480 — rump, Mirotons a la Menage re 480 — rump, modern style — braised (Fig. 305) 480 — middle short loin, English s^yle (Fig. 306) — middle short loin a la Messinoise — braised 481 — middle short loin a la Xorwood 48'Z — sirloin, a la Bradford; corn fritters and — sirloin, a la Dauphin.ess 483 — sirloin, a la Degrange; carrots and peas and fried celery 483 — sirloin, a la De Lesseps (Fig. 307).... 483 — sirloin, a la Perriu 483 — sirloin, a la Thiebliu 4S3. — sirloin, with brain patties 483 — sirloin, with chicory andsouffled sweet potatoes 484 — sirloin, with Jerusalem artichokes 484 — smoked, round top, with cream 484 — steak, chopped, Salisbury 4S4 — steak, Hamburg style 4S4 — steak, Hamburg and a la Tartare 484 — steak, porterhouse (Fig. 308) 485 — steak, porterhouse, a la Sanford — double 485 — steak, rib, a la Bercy 485 — steak, rib, a la Royer (Fig. 309) 485 — steak, round, with water-cress 485 — steak, rump, a la Villageoise 486 — steak, sirloin, a la Bi'arnaise — small.. 486 — steak, sirloin, a la Bordelaise — small.. 486 — steak, sirloin, a la Bordelaise with marrow— small 486 — steak, sirloin, a la Bordelaise with marrow and truffles — small 486 — steak, sirloin, ancient style 487

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— a la Bressoise — a la Financiere — a la Pondichery — a la Regence. — legs with truffles 114(3 C'iipoil, roasted 5S4 Caramels, cliocolate cream 104G — cream with coffee 1047 — cream with tea 1047 — cream witli vanilla 1047 — liquid, to prepare 175 Cardooiis with half glaze 823 Carp 434 — a la Chaiiibord: 434 — breaded and broiled, maitre-d'hotel.. 434 — common (Fig. 2S6) 434 — fried, garnished with parsley 434 — German (Fig. 287) 434 — German, with sauer kraut 435 — stuffed a la Chaaipeuoise — salmon.... 435 Carrots and peas, garnishing (see sirloin of — Colbert 823 — glazed, or with fine herbs 822 — Viennese style 822 Ca,rve, art of carving on the table (Figs. 19, 22) 17G — beef, roast; to carve the ribs (Fig. 29). 177 — beef, tenderloin (Fig. 30) 178 — fish (Figs. 23, 24) 176 — goose or duck (Fig. 34) 179 — hot ham (Fig. 31) 178 — lamb or venison, saddle — roasted 179 — mutton, leg (Fig. 32) 178 — mutton, saddle 179 — mutton, saddle — braised (Fig. 33).... 179 — partridges (Fig. 25 to 28) ? 177 — pheasant, grouse or jarairie chicken.. 177 — pigeons 1 79 — pullet or capon (Figs. 35, 36, 37) 179 — turkey — roasted (Fig. 38) 180 — veal, loin and kernel 179 Cases a la Jlontglas — small 679 — larks or snowbirds 680 — lobster a la Ravigote (Fig. 471) 738 — oysters a la Hilton 680 — oysters a la Lorenzo (Fig. 416) 680 — quails a la Di'jazet 681 — snipe II la C'areme — English 679 — snipe with jelly — small (Fig. 472).... 739 — squabs a la Folsom and a la I'mberto 681 — sweetljreads a la Grammout (Fig. 417) 681 — thrushes 683 — thrushes a la Diana 683 — thrushes with jelly — small (Fig. 473). 739 — with fat livers— small (Fig. 415) 680 Casino (see cakes) 949 Casseroles, potato 683 — of Iamb sweetbreads a la de Luynes.. 683 — of rice with chicken, Palestine 683 Cassolettes, Lusigny (Fig. 218) 373 — Montholon 372 Cast in Starch (see confectionery) (Fig. 759)

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— a la Villeroi 823 — marinated 3.56 — sauted, with fine herbs 823 — with cheese — baked 823 — with fried bread crumbs 833 — Broccoli orseakale with white, butter or cream sauce 823 Caviare 358 Celeriac a la Villeroi 824 — Mirabeau 823 Celery, fried (see sirloin of beef) 483 — hearts, crystallized 1051 — stalks, fennel, hearts, knobs with vinaigrette mayonnaise 358 — stalks with half-glaze, Espagnole and marrow 833 — stalks with veloute sauce 823 — with bechamel and croutons 823 Cfilestines of pullet, Talleyrand 740 — with foies-gras and puree of chestnuts 373 Center pieces (see confectionery) 1029 — explanation of various figures (Figs. 739 to 731) 1039 — of brown nougat 1033 — of cooked sugar (Figs. 733, 733, 734). 1031 — pyramids 1039 Centimeters and inches 237 Cepes a la Bordelaise 537 — baked with cream 824 — minced in croustades 824 — Proven(;al style — stnffed 824 Champagne, how to freeze (Figs. 768, 769) 1065 Chariots (see confectionery) 1038 Charlotte a la Destrey 877 — apjde (Figs. 573, 574) 877 — Bengalian 911 — Calville apples... — Metternich 912 — Russe 913 — with strawberries or raspberries 913 Chiitean framboise 911 Chaiidfroid of chicken a la Clara Morris.. 740 — of chicken fricassee 746 — of doe bird, plovers, bustards or woodcock, with f umet 740 — of guinea fowl — young (Fig. 474).... 741 — of larks 741 — of partridges a la Beatrice 741 — of pheasants — fillets (Fig. 475). 742 — of prairie hen — grouse 742 — of pullet — plain 743 — of quails a la Bandy (Fig. 476) 743 — of redhead duck — fillets 744 — of snipe in pyramid (Fig. 477) 744 — of turkey a la Perigord 744 — of venison "44

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— legs a la Sauluiere — bigarrures 590 — • legs, American style — deviled 590 — legs, as cutlets with olives,590 — legs as ducklings 708 — legs in papers 597 — legs, puree of Jerusalem artichokes.. 597 — pie, Australian style 713 — pie a la Manhattan 712 — pie, Rigolo 712 — pie, to be cut up 778 — pilau.597 — roasted, a la Championne 597 — roasted, a I'Hoteliere.597 — roasted in the saucepan 598 — roasted, with jelly, cut up and garnished with tongue 747 — roasted, with oyster sauce.598 — roasted, with tomato Conde sauce — stuflied 598 — sauted, a la Bourguiguoune 598 — • sauted, a la d'Antin 598 — ■ sauted, a la Diva 599 — sauted, a la Dodds 599 — sauted, a la Dumas 599 — sauted, a la Finnoise 599. — sauted, a la Florentine GOO — sauted, a la Madeleine 000 — sauted, a la Marcel COO — sauted, a la Marengo 000 — sauted, a la Maryland 000 — sauted, a la Montesquieu (Fig. 372).. 001 — sauted, a. la Nantaise 601 — sauted, a la Parmeutier 001 — sauted, a la Portugaise 603 — sauted, a la Sanford 602 — sauted, it la Sherman 747 — sauted, a la Stanley 602 — sauted, a la Tunisian 603 — sauted, Hunter's style 003 — sauted, Parisian style 003 — sauted, Point du jour — sauted, Vienna style 604 — sauted, with fine herbs, tomato garnishing 604 — with half glaze (Figs. 373, 374 and 375) 604 — spring, as au entree, roasted — small.. 604 Chicken, wliole, h I'Aquitaine — braised... CO.") — whole, a la Leoua — boiled CO.") — whole, H la Stuyvesant — poele,. GO.') — whole, Euglish style — boiled 60.5 — whole, with noodles, macaroni, ravioles or mirmidous — braised 60.') — whole, with rice — braised 606 - — whole, with tarragon — braised 606 — whole, with new vegetables, small — braised 606 Chicory timbales 82.5 Chocolate (Figs. 760, 761) 1059 — iced • 1027 Chop, to, par;<ley, truffles, onions, shallots mushrooms, tongue and coral.... 180 Chops (see mutton) 532 CIiow-ChoH 360 Cisco, Castillane sauce 435 Clams, little neck, Quabaug (Fig. 266) 401 — on the half.shell 3.59 — pancakes and fritters 40] — Philadelphia style 401 — poulette 401 — long or soft 402 — soft, fried, garnished with fried parsley 403 — soft, Newburg 402 — soft, on skewers or hatelets (Pig. 267). 402 Claret cup 1066 — it la Willards 1066 Coat jelly molds, and to mold jellies (Fig. 39) 181 Cochineal red, coloring 182 Cocks'-combs, stuffed, Duxelle 373 Cocks' kidneys, Villeroi 373 Cocktails, Absinthe. 1066 — brandy 1065 — Calisaya 1066 — gin, Holland and Tom 1065 — Jersey, iced SS<i.... 1066 — Manhattan.'Vs,,... 101)6 — Martine,., 1066 — Peruvian ^,\4006 — Riding Club %)66 — Vermuth 1065 Cocoanut, to prepare 181 Codfish (Fig. 288) — fresh, a la Duxelle — baked.... 4.35 — fresh, broiled with bacon or ham.... 436 — fresh, Norwegian style 436 — fresh, slices a la Hollandaise (Fig. 289, 290) — head, egg sauce 436 — tongues with black butter or chopped — salt, Lyonnese style 437 — salt, Spanish style 436 — salt, a la Villageoise — baked 437 — salt, brandade of, — salt, cakes and balls 437 Codflsll, salt, Faraday crowns 437 — salt, picked-up, with cream 438 — salt, vol-au-vent 720 Coffee, how to make (Figs. 762, 768) 1059 — iced 1027 — Turkish (Figs. 764, 765. 766) 1059 Cold dishes 723 Colombines of chicken Jivers with ham.. 373 — of foies-gras 373 Colorings, vegetable; carmine and cochineal red Compicgrne with sabayon 878 Compotes (see stewed fruits) 1056 Cond6 cakes (see cakes) 950 — (large pieces) 1036 — baskets filled with candied fruits (Figs. 742, 743, 744) 1036 — baskets filled with ice cream fruits... 1036 — baskets, Perrette's (Fig. 745) 1036 — baskets with cherries (Fig. 746) 1037 — boat, bon voyage, served at a farewell dinner (Fig. 747) 1038 — chariot filled with lady apples (Fig. 748) 1038 — chariot of doves (Fig. 749) 1039 — chariot of swans (Fig. 750) 1040 — cornucopia (Horn of Plenty) (Fig. 751) ". 1040 — Dosser a la Denivelle (Fig. 7.52) 1041 — the prolific tree (Fig. 7.58) 1045 — vases of pulled and drawn sugar (Figs. 753, 754) — wheelbarrow filled with fJowers on a socle (Fig. 756) 1043 — windmill (Fig. 757) 1043 Cooked paste for fanciful borders 202 Corn, boiled on the cob 825 — cut up 825 — fritters 482 — pancakes 825 — succotash.... 825 Cornetsof orange cream 913 Cos lettuce a la Rudini— stuffed 840 Court l)ouilIon 183 — with wine 183 Crabs (Fig. 268) 402 — hard shell, baked on a dish 402 — hard shell, in court bouillon 402 — hard shell, stuffed. Carolina style.... 403 — hard shell, stuffed aud deviled 403 — hard shell, stuffed with mushrooms.. 403 — oyster, a la Newburg 403 — oyster, a la Salamander 403 — oyster, fried 403 — soft shell, broiled, ravigote butter... 408 —.soft shell, fried 404 — soft shell, sauted in butter 404 Crawfish or crayfish (Fig. 269) 404 — ii la Bateliere 404 — a la Bordelaise 404

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Eggs, liard-boiled, a la Waslibarn 849 • — hard-boiled, croquettes (Fig. 561).... 850 — bard-boiled. New York style 850 — hard-boiled, Russian style 850 — molded a la Bedford — in cocottes (Fig. 563) 851 — molded il la Colbert — in cases (Fig. 564) 851 — molded a I'echiquier^iji cases 853 — molded a la Parisian, also called Talleyrand, Polignac, Polish, Soyer.. 8.52 — molded with foies-gras — incases 853 — omelets (see omelets) 853 — on a dish (Figs. 566, 567) 856 — on a dish, Bercy 857 — on a dish, Bienvenue 857 — on a dish, Conde 857 — on a dish, Creole style 857 — on a dish, English style 857 — on a dish, Fermiere 857 — on a dish, Monaco 857 — on a dish, Omer Pacha 857 — on a dish, Plumerey 858 — on a dish, Rossini 858 — on a dish, Venetian style 858 — on a dish, with bacon 858 — on a dish, with cepes 858 — on a dish, with chopped ham 858 — on a dish, with tomatoes 858 — poached, a la Boeldieu (Fig. 568) 858 — poached, a la Benedick 8.58 — poached, a la Bourguignonne — baked 859 — poached, a la matelote 8.59 — poached, X la Mirabeau 859 — poached, a la Villeroi 859 — poached, il la Wright Sanford 859 — poached, with gravy 859 — poached, with puree of chicken supreme 860 — poached, with spinach 860 ^ — scrambled, a la Columbus (Fig. 569). 860 — scrambled, it la Duxelle 860 — scrambled, a la Jerome 861 — scrambled, il la Martinez 861 — scrambled, in a risot border with duck.s' livers 861 — scrambled, with anchovy croustades.. 860 — scrambled, with fine herbs 861 — scrambled, with gravy 861 — scrambled, with lobster, garnished with Villeroi oysters 861 — scrambled, with mushrooms 861 — scrambled, with Perigord truffles. 863 — scrambled, with Piedmont truffles... 863 — scrambled, with sweetbreads 863 — scrambled, with Swiss and Parmesan — scrambled, with tomato puree 862 — scrambled, with tomatoes and chives. 863 — soft, a la Chipolata (Fig. 570) 863 — soft, for epicures 863 — soft, with puree of sorrel 863 — snow, or Hoating islands 915 Eggs, snow, molded 916 — to beat the whites of 185 — with cream, meringued.... 884 — with coffee, cream meringued 884 Eggplant a la Duperret — broiled 826 ■ — ii la Morton — in cases 826 — il la Robertson 826 — breaded 827 — stuffed and baked 826 — Almonds and filberts, burnt 169 — Almonds, Conde or filbert preparation. 169 — Almond cream 182 — Almond milk 169 — Almond paste for fancy cakes 201 — Almond paste with cooked sugar 201 — Almond paste with egg-yolks 201 — Almond paste with gum tragacanth.. 201 • — Almond paste with pistachios 201 — Almond.s, pistachios or filberts, to peel, 169 — Almonds, to chop or shred 169 — Almonds, to pound, crush or color... 169 — Balja paste 201 — Blanch rice, to 170 — Blanch vegetables, to 170 ~- Bone poultry or game, to 170 — Borders for dishes, of noodle, cooked paste, and metal (Figs. 1 to 6)... 170 — Borders of English paste or gum paste (Fig. 6a) 171 — Bouchees, to prepare (Figs. 16, 17, 18). 173 — Braize, to poeler, smother or sauter meats 173

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style, flour, Milanese, crackers and deviled 174 — Breasts of pork, salted and smoked, English bacon 174 — Brine 174 — Brioche paste 202 — Butter, clarified and purified 175 — Buttfr, cold, for buttering molds 175 — Butter for buttering molds 175 — Caramels, to prepare liquid... 175 — Carmine coloring 1!<2 — Carve fish, how to (Fig. 24) — Carve goose or duck, how to (Fig. 34). 179 — Carve hot ham, how to (Fig. 31) 178 — Carve leg of mutton, how to (Fig. 32). 178 — Carve loin and kernel of veal, how to. 179 — Carve partridges, how to (Figs. 25, 26, 27, 28) — Carve pheasants, how to 177 — Carve pigeons, how to 179 — Carve prairie chicken or grouse, how to — Carve pullet or capon, how to (Figs. 35, 36, 37) — Carve roast beef ribs, how to (Fig. 29). 177 — Carve roast turkey, how to (Fig. 38).. 180

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