March 1995 Venice Restaurants Some of you reading this might already know that my wife and I run one of the most highly regarded country restaurants in England, Gidleigh Park at Chagford, Devon. You can now see some details of this in the Internet at http://www.calvacom.fr/relais/uk/gidleigh.html http://www.dcs.ex.ac.uk/ug/cs92/cs92rgh/food_and_acc/trench.html#tr_13 Venice is the most wonderful city in the world, and we have been there five times since 1987. It is not a gastronomic destination, but there are very good restaurants particularly for fish. Here is a list of our favourites, based on our most recent visits in Nov 93 and Mar 95, roughly in our order of preference: Da Fiore, San Polo 2202, Calle del Scaleter (exit Campo San Polo from the NE corner), tel 721308. All things considered our favourite restaurant in Venice, great risotto and fish. Very good wine list. Maurizio Martin runs the restaurant, his wife Mara cooks. You should reserve at least a week in advance. About L 200,000 for two with good wine, one of the best lists in Venice. Harry's Bar, San Marco 1323, Calle Vallaresso, tel 528 5777. Always ridiculously expensive, but always very good and we would not consider a trip to Venice without going there. Go at midday for a drink and snack downstairs. Martinis, Negronis, Bellinis and Planters Punches are v. good. Chicken sandwiches, toasted ham and cheese, and chicken croquettes are all very good, and while you are there book a table for dinner (downstairs is more fun, upstairs more spacious and you get a view of the Salute and San Giorgio Maggiori). Tagliolini Verde, Carpaccio (invented here), Fegato alla Veneziana are amongst my favourites. Waiters are excellent. L 250,000+ for two with house wines. Harry's Dolci, Giudecca 773, Fondamenta San Biagio, tel 522 4844, open late March - 7 November. Number 86 vap lands nearby. Run by Harrys, same quality grub at half the price. Outside tables are nice in the summer, with a great view across the lagoon to the Zattere. I've recently been told by a client of ours that there is a new restaurant further along the Giudecca run by an ex-waiter from Harrys; you might be able to get details from one of the waiters at Harrys. Locanda Cipriani, Torcello, tel 730150, open late March - 10 November. Also associated with Harry's, great dining in garden, L 125,000 water taxi or number 12 vap from Fondamenta Nuove. La Furatola, Dorsoduro 2870, Calle Lunga San Barnaba, tel 520 8594. Fish only; they show it to you on a platter. Simply run by two brothers. L125,000 for 2 with house wines. Da Ivo, San Marco 1809, Ramo dei Fuseri, tel 528 5004. We've only eaten there once, in November 93 when they were very generous with tartufi bianci, which makes me want to go back. I'm also happy that Michael Winner doesn't like it. Altanella, Giudecca 268, 522 7780, is a very unpretentious family run restaurant that we liked the first time in November 93. I had a negative report from someone that I recommended it to so we went again March 95, and liked it again. Number 86 vap to Redentore. L 125,000 for two with simple wines. Hotel Monaco and Grand Canal opposite Harry's has pretty good food. Lunch on the terrace gives you a wonderful view of the Salute, San Giorgio Maggiore and Zitelle. Cipriani Hotel is our favourite place to stay, and we had a good lunch by the pool March 95. Expensive. Do Spade and Cantina Do Mori both on the Sottoportego Do Mori (go through the Rialto market, turn left at the top, then right in 25 yards or so) are both good for sandwiches and a glass of good wine at midday. We went once to Aldo's on the Zattere and liked the calzone. We have been twice to Corte Sconte and we will not return. Antica Besseta has its fans but we weren't thrilled the one time we went; I think we will try it again someday. Al Covo was much better we thought in 93 than March 95. Diane Bennelli is Texan and great fun, her husband Cesare the chef is Venetian. Good fish and nice atmosphere in 93 but the only clients in 95 were tourists. I keep notes on our favourite places, and can send by email London Restaurants NY Restaurants Scottish Hotels and Restaurants Restaurants in SW England The best restaurant wine lists in Britain Regards, Paul Henderson
Venice, Italy