Greetings, all. My work as a travel/food/wine writer in Italy means that I end up eating out often; if I like the place I write it up afterwords and post the review on the Net. Here's the latest, while all of my restaurant reviews are on my Italian cuisine site, at http://italianfood.miningco.com/blrev.htm. If you're coming to Italy and there's nothing listed for where you'll be, drop me a line -- I also have copies of many local restaurant guides. Kyle Phillips WebWeaver, The Mining Company's Italian Cuisine Recipes, techniques, ingredients, wines, travel and lots of Italian food links http://italianfood.miningco.com/mbody.htm ______________________ Ristorante La Brace Via Carlo Teggi 29, Codemondo (Near Reggio Emilia, Emilia Romagna) open daily except Sunday; tel. (0522) 308.800. "Bow if you hear the cooking of Bologna mentioned," writes Pellegrino Artusi, "because it deserves it." So does the cooking of Emilia, which is home to Parmigiano Reggiano, Culatello (a close relative of the better known Prosciutto di Parma) Aceto Balsamico and a host of other marvels; the area also boasts some of Italy's prettiest castles and is a joy to explore, assuming you're not hurrying to or from Milan on the A1 motorway. If you happen to be near Reggio Emilia come mealtime by all means detour to Codemondo, where you will find La Brace. The name means "The Grill," and while apt because the first thing you'll see as you enter is the rotisserie, it really doesn't do the place justice. Antipasti are traditional, with an excellent selection of cold cuts; the salamini are home-cured and superb, while the prosciutto, coppa (cured spiced shoulder but) and other meats are from local producers. The selection of first courses is ample, ranging from the extremely simple tagliolini coi cipollotti, home-made pasta with braised onion sauce (onions finely sliced and simmered in broth, no tomato) that are surprisingly delicate, to a variety of more intricate pastas including tortelli di patata (with a tasty slightly oniony sauce that goes well with Lambrusco) and tortelli stuffed with greens and fresh Parmigiano, served with butter and sage. Second Courses? Lots of things done on the grill, as you might expect. However, this is also the land of aceto balsamico; the insalata di coniglio, grilled rabbit in an aceto balsamico sauce with slices of polenta, is simply extraordinary. Desserts are varied and quite good. Ordering cheese and a pear usually produces just that; here instead the pear was thinly sliced and sprinkled with pine nuts, and served with a tasty selection of pecorino, Parmigiano and scamorza affumicato. The wine list is also quite interesting. Ermes Agnori likes to go on tasting trips and has the best of Tuscany and Piemonte, but you'll do very well with his selection of Lambrusco. Ermete Medici's Concerto is superb. Price? Depending upon what you order, 30-50,000 lire per person. Highly recommended.
Italy