We (especially Jim) have been lurkers on this newsgroup for quite a while gleaning some excellent dining info from the participants. We felt it was time to give something back. This is mainly Sue's work.
Sue & Jim Goncher
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Sue & Jim's Excellent Italian Meals 1
This is a report on the dining experiences we had during a recent trip to Italy (May - 1995). Sue (S) and Jim (J) were the diners.
Most these restaurants were found using books "Essential Restaurants of Italy", "Cheap Eats", and the Michelin Red Book.
All prices are in Italian Lire. The exchange rate at the time we were there was at least 1620 Lire to the dollar. This means you can divide by 1000 and multiply by .6 to get the dollar equivalent, e.g. 100,000 Lire is $60.
Sunday - 4/30/95
"La Lucca" (Milan)
Antipasti:
Insalata di Salmone (salad of smoked salmon -J)
Saltato di Porchini con Gamberetti (sauteed wild mushrooms with
shrimp -S)
Primi piatti:
Tagliatelle con Marscopone e Spinaci (noodles with marscapone
cheese & spinach -J)
Risotto con Formaggio (rice with smoked cheese -S)
Secondo piatti:
Coniglio fritta e Carciofi (fried rabbit and artichoke hearts -J)
Paillard con Asparagi (veal with asparagus -S)
Wine: (not noted)
Total: 109,000L
Comments: This is our first day in Italy, after a very long flight. Without dinner reservations we checked out a couple of recommendations given by Morgan (our wine merchant). We were dressed too casually for one restaurant, and the other was completely booked. We wandered around looking for a place to eat and stumbled onto "La Lucca". The food was pretty good, typical Italian dishes, and substantial portions.
A lone gentleman at an adjoining table helped us with the menu and getting the attention of the waiter. He's a businessman from Mexico who sells eyeglass frames and conversed with us throughout the meal.
Monday - 5/1/95 (May Day)
"Grill Casanova" (in the Palace Hotel - Milan)
Antipasti:
Bresaolo with a drizzle of olive oil (air cured - dried beef, was
very rich and excellent)
Formaggio with fines herbs
Primi piatti:
Farfalle saltato con Gamberi di Spinaci e coda di Aragosta
(butterfly shaped pasta with sauteed crawfish and a rock lobster tail
on spinach. Absolutely delicious -J)
Fusilli integrale saltato con Pollo salsa de peperone dolce al
basilico (whole wheat pasta with sauteed chicken and a sweet red
pepper & basil sauce -S)
Secondo piatti:
Scaloppa di Rombo con Capesante allo zefferano e piccoli legumi
(Turbo & scallops with a saffron sauce and small (al dente)
vegetables, asparagus, carrots, cauliflower, and zucchini -J)
Scaloppa di Branzino con verdura e Tagliatelle (Sea bass with a
light olive oil & fish stock based sauce, and thinly cut vegetables,
carrots, potatoes, and zucchini -S)
Dinner Wine: '94 Castello di Neine - Arneis Della Loughe (Piemonte) Dessert Wine: Malvasia - Passito della Lipari (delicious sweet amber wine) Espresso's Total: 213,500L
Comments: The sauces accompanying the fish dishes were delicate and
delicious. The meal was extremely good and one of the best we
ate while in Italy. The restaurant is elegant and service good.
There was romantic piano accompaniment - which included some of
the great Beatles tunes.
Alessandro Bernasconi, the Restaurant Manager, was an extremely friendly and helpful man - so much so - as to recommend the best wine shop in the city and if we wanted he would personally take us there upon our return trip to Milan before going home.
Tuesday - 5/2/95
"Al Covo" (Venice)
Antipasti:
Dried Cod with Polenta (it's amazing what you can do with dried
cod -J)
Mixed Seafood (included baby octopus, large shrimp, and little white
things(cheeks?) from the cuttlefish -S)
Primi piatti:
Gnocchi in a light tasty sauce with Spider Crabs (J)
Puree of Zucchini soup topped with a small drizzle of olive oil
(zucchini and stock based soup -S)
Secondo piatti:
Small Monkfish with baby Artichokes and Polenta (J)
John Dory with baby Artichokes and Polenta (S)
Dessert:
Pear cake with a light Grappa Sauce (one dessert & two forks - this
was very light and delicious)
Dinner Wine: Anselmi - Soave Classico
Espresso's
Grappa's:
'93 Muller Thurgau - Chardonnay Grappa (Pojer & Sandrie -J)
'92 Acquavita de Ciliege - Cherry Grappa (Pojer & Sandrie -S)
Total: 167,000L
Comments: Each dish was well prepared and the overall meal quite good. There was no written menu, the choices were presented verbally by Diane, in English. Diane (the chef's wife) an American transplant was a very gracious hostess. She can also speak other languages fluently - as we observed her explain the menu to other customers in French, German, and Italian. She also explained that the baby artichokes are only available a few weeks a year. So, they tend to use them a lot when they are around.
Wednesday - 5/3/95
"La Caravella" (Venice)
Antipasti:
Sardines & small Sole in "saor" (J)
Valtellina Bresaola with Rocket Salad (S)
Secondo piatti:
Grilled giant Shrimp in Devil Sauce (J)
Shrimps sauteed in Port Wine (S)
Dinner Wine: '93 Vernascio di San Gimingano
Espresso's
Total: 203,600L
Comments: This meal was exceptionally good, even though the restaurant is considered a tourist trap and high priced. We were scheduled to have dinner at "Osteria da Fiori" and had asked the hotel concierge that morning to confirm our reservations, only to be told late in the day that we didn't have any. Just shows that some restaurants can't be trusted.
Earlier in the day we accidentally came upon a place that had the most delicious looking pizza and tortina's in the window that we couldn't resist. We bought a ham and cheese tortina, and a bottle of vino rosso. With a couple of glasses from our hotel we went to San Marco Square and sat on the steps and had lunch while watching the tourists and school kids. By the way, the tortina was as good as it looked.
Thursday - 5/4/95
"Ai Gondolieri" (Venice)
Antipasti:
Lumache Gratinate al Forno (Snails in a butter sauce and covered
with toasted bread crumbs -J)
Asparagi Nostrami e Crema di Formaggi (Asparagus, al dente, with a
very light cream & cheese sauce -S)
Primi piatti:
Vellutine di Patate al Tartufo Bianco (Gratinee of potato soup with
white truffles -J)
Gnocchi al Ragout D'erbe (Gnocchi served with a olive oil based herb
sauce, included: parsley, basil, and oregano -S)
Secondo piatti:
Filetto di Angus al Tartufo Nero (Crisp filo dough topped with a
steak wrapped with sliced bacon and a black truffle sauce -J)
Filetto di Angus al Barolo e Porcini (Steak with a barolo wine and
wild mushroom sauce -S)
Sauteed vegetables; zucchini, red pepper, eggplant, and spinach were
also served.
Formaggi Freschi o Stagione:
Parmesano Reggiano, Brie, Montagio, Latrae (Delicious cheese course)
Dinner Wine: '93 Zomo and Palazzola Cabernet
Espresso's
Total: 211,200L
Comments: The steaks were excellent (in quality and preparation), and the sauces were very good. An overall enjoyable dinner. Later on this evening we stopped at the "Longhi" in the Hotel Gritti Palace on the Grand Canal for a nightcap - a glass of "Soave de Recioto" a delightful dessert wine.
Friday - 5/5/95
"Al Graspo de Ua" (Venice)
The meal began with a glass of "Coppa Prosecco"
(a Spumanti Italiani - or - Italian Champagne)
Primi piatti:
Vermicelli alle Vongole Veraci (Thin pasta with small whole clams
in a light sauce of olive oil, garlic and parsley -J)
Spaghettini alla Dalmata (Pasta with small shrimp and baby clams in
an olive oil and tomato sauce -S)
Secondo piatti:
Gran Fritto misto di Mare (Breaded and deep fried seafood which
included: sardines, anchovies, calamari, baby octopus & cuttlefish -J)
Coda di Rospo ai Ferri (Grilled baby monkfish -S)
Dolci:
Tiramiso (which was delicious)
Dinner Wine: '93 Pinot Grigio - Colli Orientali del Friuli (great wine) Espresso's Total: 152,500L
Comments: This was very much a tourist restaurant, being near the Rialto Bridge and with many pictures of movie celebrities, from years long past, on the walls.
For lunch we wanted to try some of that delicious looking pizza from the place we bought the tortina only two days ago - well we walked & walked and we looked & looked and damn if we couldn't find the place again (and the whole time we were looking we knew we were close). We gave up our search and went to a small trattoria "Vino-Vino" instead. The young men running the place didn't seem all that friendly toward foreigners, but the lunch was pretty good. We had:
Pork loin in a milk sauce -J
Pasta salad (included: black & green olives, red & green peppers, and
onions) -S
Fava beans with slices of raw onion
Wine: '94 Bardolino - Fallonichi Cavalcaselle
Guess What! Returning to the hotel after lunch we once again came upon that place with the delicious pizza and tortina's (wouldn't you just know it). We decided to buy a couple tortina's to take with us on our train ride to Florence the next day.
Saturday - 5/6/95
"Cibrero" (Florence)
The meal began with a glass of "Bianco di Custoza - Le Tende"
Antipasti:
Both of us had the following - and each was fantastic:
Puree of goat cheese with herbs
Liver pate on toast
Tripe salad with olive oil and herbs
Tomato & basil timbale with a drizzle of olive oil
Potato rolls
Primi piatti:
Souffle of Potato and Spinach with a Meat Ragout on the side (J)
Yellow bell pepper soup topped with a drizzle of olive oil and grated
cheese (S)
They also gave us a small bowl of a spicy cabbage soup(for which they
are known) to taste
Secondo piatti:
Lamb's Brain and a Potato with herbs Gratinee (The whole brain was
poached and served in an aluminum foil pouch; texture was very light
and creamy -J)
Flan of lamb Tongue and Cheese with Artichoke Hearts (S)
Dolci:
Chocolate Cake (not just any chocolate cake - this was chocolate
satin, exquisite -J)
Raspberry Creme Torte (So light and so perfect -S)
Dinner Wine: '93 Castello di Ama - Chianti Classico Espresso's (first time I ever saw small espresso cups come with their own
little lids - cute!)
Total: 174,000L
Comments: Every single item served was perfectly prepared and absolutely delicious, service was good even though they appeared understaffed and all the waitpersons were running their butts off. We did briefly meet the owner and were able to express how much we enjoyed the meal. Our opinion is this restaurant deserves one more star in the Michelin Red Book. It was by far the BEST dining value of the whole trip - around $100US!!!
Sunday - 5/7/95
"Sabatini" (Florence)
Meal began with a glass of "Spumanti with Strawberry Juice"
Antipasti:
Affettati di Fattoria alla Toscana (Slices of salami, procuitto,
mortadella, pancetta and a crostini with warm liver pate -J&S)
Primi piatti:
Pasta e Fagioli alla Toscana (White bean soup with pasta and a
drizzle of olive oil -J)
Tagliarini con Piselli (Pasta with peas and pieces of pancetta -S)
Secondo piatti:
Bistecca alla Fiorentina (T-Bone steak; cooked perfectly but too
salty for our taste -J)
Entrecote di Manzo al Dragoncello (Steak with a tarragon sauce;
good but bit too salty for our taste -S)
Asparagi alla agro (Asparagus - slightly overcooked -we shared)
Dinner Wine: '83 Tignanello - Antinori
(excellent wine; and served in the largest wine glasses I've ever seen
- looked like long stemmed fishbowls)
Espresso's
Grappa's: Tignanello Grappa "Antinori"
Total: 349,000L
Comments: Little disappointed in the meal, we expected better. But the wine and grappa were outstanding and were the best part of the meal.
Monday - 5/8/95
"Enoteco Pinchiorri" (Florence)
This was one of our most fabulous meals in Italy and the most interesting in dining experiences. Having read the menu prior to entering the restaurant we had decided to go with the Pre Fixe "Menu Toscano". Once inside we found out about the "Menu of the Day" or AKA "Surprise Menu". What this means is that you don't know what you're getting until it's served and even the waiters don't know what is being served until they serve it (they do know the general theme for the meal). After opting for the "Surprise Menu" we were given a list of several wines (white & red) to select from to go with our meal and we had to choose the wines first (even though we didn't know what we would be eating). As we cry out "but how can we pick a wine if we don't know what we're going to be eating"? The waiter indicated he would assist if we made a selection that didn't fit the meal. We agreed that was fair and proceeded to select the following wines:
1st wine: Muller Thurgau - Tocai Collio
2nd wine: Meursalt (forgot to record vintage/producer)
3rd wine: '89 Barolo - Ca dei Gancia nei Cannubio
4th wine: Dessert win (again forgot to record)
The following menu was our surprise meal:
Pate de Foie Gras with Almonds and a Port Sauce (The foie gras had
the texture of soft whipped cream - "O" so good) Wine #1
Pieces of Monk fish that had been larded with anchovy served in a
Potato Soup topped with a drizzle of olive oil, mixed fines herbs and
pieces of arugula. (Interesting combination of flavors) Wine #1
Pan fried Sea Bass with Asparagus, Peas, dried Tomatoes, olive oil &
balsamic vinegar (Excellent) Wine #2
Gnocchi with Peas and Pancetta with a Green Pea based sauce
(Delicious, the pancetta was so aromatic it just exploded into your
nose - was probably a house made product) Wine #2
Tagliarini with Rabbit Ragout (Pasta with bits of rabbit meat,
celery and black olives) Wine #3
Lamb Chops with fried Eggplant (Lamb was excellent; eggplant was
breaded and served with a tomato collis) Wine #3
Cheese Selection
Hot Chocolate Torte - Vanilla Ice Cream and Pear Sauce (Pear was
braised with cinnamon and pureed) Wine #4
Tray of sweets and cookies
Espresso's
Total: 650,000L
Comments: The restaurant atmosphere was romantic, service impeccable, and the meal a memorable one. When we selected the wines we figured it would be a glass of each. Little did we know that they would open a bottle and continue pouring as we sipped the glasss down. When the next appropriate dish arrived, they started pouring the next wine. Once we realized this, we took did not skimp on sips. The meal lasted over 3 hours - nice pacing and plenty of time to sip. We were feeling a little tipsy by the end of the meal.
Tuesday - 5/9/95
"Taverna del Bronzino" (Florence)
Antipasti:
Bottarga di Muggine e Fagioli (Sliced dried fish from southern Italy
with white beans. The fish was interestingly sticky, reminiscent of
smoked salmon - served with hard boiled egg, tomato slices and bean
sprouts -J)
Crostini alla Fiorentina (Toasted bread topped with mozzarella,
arugula and tomato then toasted again -S)
Primi piatti:
Tortellini neri Tartufo (Black pasta stuffed with truffle, topped
with shredded romano cheese -J)
Ricciole al Pesto(Curly wide noodles with green beans, pieces of
artichoke in a Pesto sauce; quite good -S)
Secondo piatti:
Ossobuco alla Fiorentina (Beef with mushrooms served with a
beef-tomato sauce -J)
(Vegetable: zucchini flowers dipped in batter and fried)
Rustichelle di Filetto (Thin slices of beef stuffed with ham &
eggplant, rolled & braised in a heavy gravy -S)
(Vegetable: spinach sauteed with garlic and olive oil)
Dolci:
A very good chocolate mousse, it tasted much like the chocolate used
at "Rivoire" which is known for it's hot chocolate which we had
earlier in the day.
Dinner Wine: '88 Campogiovanni - Brunello di Montalcino Espresso's Grappa's:
Ornellaia - Grappa di Merlot (slight color to the grappa -J) Good
Seguana - Chardonnay Grappa (very aromatic -S) Very good
Total: 199,000L
Comments: Standard Italian food and once again the meat dishes were too salty for our taste.
Wednesday - 5/10/95
"Osteria Le Logge" (Siena)
Antipasti:
Crostini di Fungi Porcini (Toasted bread with a porcini mushrooms,
onions & olive oil spread -J)
Melanzane Arrosto (Thin slices of eggplant topped with mozzarella,
diced tomato, olive oil and roasted -S)
Primi piatti:
Tagliolini al Tartufo (Pasta with a rich butter, olive oil and
truffle sauce -J)
Crepes Farcite al Radicchio (Crepes stuffed with radicchio and a
bechamel sauce with a little tomato -S)
Secondo piatti:
Caniglio Ripieno al Forno (Rabbit stuffed with ham & other ground
meat, served with a gravy -J)
Peperoni Farciti di Carne (Green pepper stuffed with chopped meat,
potato and herbs -S)
Dolci:
Ricotta Torta with Chocolate topping; plus a White Chocolate Torta -J)
Frutta di Stagione (fresh mixed fruits: strawberries, grapes,
oranges, etc. -S)
Dinner Wine: The House Chianti
Espresso's
Total: 123,000L
Comments: The dinner was very good for a family style trattoria. The stuffed rabbit was the only dish that was too salty for our tastes. We shared our table with another couple, Pierre and Silvia from the Lyon region of France. They also were on vacation.
Thursday - 5/11/95
"Antica Trattoria Botteganova" (Siena)
Antipasti:
Carpaccio (beef) & Truffle on a bed of spring salad with a drizzle of
olive oil & lemon (J)
Salmon and Cottage Cheese Soufflé with chives and olive oil (S)
Primi piatti:
Fish Ravioli and Fennel with Clams and Courgettes Sauce (J)
Ravioli filled with Shrimp & Rosemary with a Chick Pea Sauce (S)
Secondo piatti:
Anatra alla Grappa di Moscato Rosa e la Sua Salsa - per 2 persone
(Duck, a whole duck, in a grappa sauce served with spinach)
Dinner Wine: '85 Coltassala Castello di Volpaia (from Radda in Chianti) Espresso's Total: 160,000L
Comments: The meal was good, but the portions were quite large and we were unable to finish the duck course. "E Troppo" (Too Much).
Rained up through noon. We drove through the Chianti area today but didn't stop at any of the cantini (winerys). Saw some nice little towns and great views of vineyards. In the little town of Gaoli we stopped for lunch at a place called "Carlioni Trattoria", and it turned out to be darn good.
Penne with Pepperoni (pasta w/ red & green peppers -J)
Rigatoni "Firenzie" (pasta w/ tomato sauce -S)
Local wine
Pecorino Cheese (great cheese)
Expresso's
Friday - 5/12/95
"Ristorante Altri Tempi" (Villa Scacciapensieri - our hotel - Siena)
Piatti di Oggi (we both had the day's pre-fixe menu)
Antipasti:
Capreses (Slices of a mild white cheese and tomatoes with basil and
caper berries)
Primi piatti:
Tagliatelle ai Funghi (Egg noodles with porcini mushrooms, parsley
and olive oil)
Secondo piatti:
Cuor di Filetto alla Rossini Trance di Spada alla Griglia con Piselli
alla Fiorentina Carciofi Empolese
Insalate
(Filets with calf liver pate, peas with bits of ham, baby artichokes
and salad choices from the salad cart)
Dolci:
Custard torte topped with Pine Nuts (J)
Fresh Strawberries (S)
Dinner Wine: '90 Nobile di Montepulciano fattoria del cerro Espresso's Total: 156,000L
Comments: The meat was very good and well prepared.
Saturday - 5/13/95
"Fini" (Modena)
The meal began with a glass of champagne (name unknown)
Antipasti:
Prosciutto di Parma (Two types of hams: a moist slightly salty ham
and a very dry rich aromatic ham -J)
Flan al Parmigiano (Very light parmesan flan topped with spinach and
a cream sauce; delicious -S)
Primi piatti:
Lasagne Verdi (Green noodles with a meat sauce; very rich -J)
Tagliatelle alla Boscaiola (Fresh egg noodles with olive oil, meat
sauce & fresh porchini mushroom sauce; excellent -S)
Secondo piatti:
Bollito Misto dal Carrello; Salse e Cipolline all' Aceto Balsamico
(Choice of mixed "boiled" meats from the cart: beef, pork, ham,
tongue, veal, zambone (house sausage); served with several variety
of sauces including pearl onions in balsamic vinegar)
Vegetables served included: fennel, zucchini and carrots (J&S)
Dolci:
Tiramisu (small portion) &
Coffee & Chocolate torte
Sweet dessert wine
Dinner Wine: '89 Barolo - Bartolo Mascarello
Espresso's (small sweets and chocolates were service with the coffee) Total: 321,500L
Comments: The restaurant was elegant and service good. I thought the food was very good and enjoyed it a little more than Jim. Of the meats, the beef and veal were dry, all of the other meats were great. Would agree that it was not worth going out of our way to eat there. As a kind gesture the waiter gave us a copy of their menu and the label from the bottle of wine we had for dinner (the wine, by the way, was great).
Sunday - 5/14/95
"Miranda" (Tellaro near Lerici)
We both had the special pre-fixe menu of the day which included:
Insalata di Gamberi e Carcofi in marinata di Basilico (King prawns
with artichokes in salsa of tomato, basil & olive oil - excellent)
Involtino di Orata al Frutti di Mare in Salsa Tonnata (Fish fillets
rolled, stuffed with tiny mussels, on top of a tuna salsa and
asparagus cream - superb)
Parmigiana di Melanzane e Filetti di Pesce (Ultra thin crostini
topped with a slice of tomato, a thin slice of sea bass then topped
with a parmesan cream sauce & browned under the broiler - absolutely
wonderful)
Gnocchi di Asparagi al Ragout di Crostacei (Asparagus gnocchi with
scampi and a very rich tomato & fish stock sauce - delicious)
Filleto di Branzoni in Crema di Asparagi (Sea Bass with asparagus
and a cream sauce; just a touch salty but very, very good)
Dolci:
Bavarese al Whisky in Salsa Vaginalia (Bavarian cream with a light
whiskey sauce; great desserts -J)
Zabaione Gratinato con Pinoli (Vanilla caramel ice cream covered
with zabaglione quickly broiled then sprinkled with pine nuts; " -S)
Dinner Wine: '94 "Pigato" Riviera Ligure di Ponente Dessert Wine: Forteto delua Luja (muscato) Espresso's Total: 249,000L
Comments: Miranda was another of our most memorable and fabulous dining experiences. Not only was the food outstanding but the presentation of each dish was beautiful. As you can tell from the menu, Miranda only prepares and serves fresh and in season fish/seafood . Also, asparagus was in season. Miranda is also a very small hotel located in a well to do neighborhood. We almost canceled our reservations because of the weather (still raining and it was a difficult drive to get there) but are so glad we didn't.
Monday - 5/15/95
"El Capitano" (Vernazza - Cinque Terre)
Antipasti:
Anchovies with olive oil and lemon (J&S)
Primi piatti:
Linguine with Crab Meat (very good -J)
Trofie al Pesto (small shaped pasta with pesto sauce; good -S)
Secondo piatti:
Grilled Scampi and Large Prawns (extremely fresh & delicious -J)
Mixed grilled fish (included: octopus, perch & prawns; just ok -S)
Formaggi:
Cheese selection: pecorino, parmesan and gorgonzola (J&S)
Dolci:
Tiramisu (J&S)
Dinner Wine: Local white wine; came in a bottle with no label & no name and a cork that had been inserted by hand - probably had just been drawn out of a large container of some kind; it was cheap too - around $3.50 Espresso's Total: 131,000L
Comments: The restaurant is a tourist's joint, but enjoyable. Vernazza was the fourth village we visited and the one we liked the most. It's a very scenic and pretty village, would love to go back sometime.
Tuesday - 5/16/95
"Al Sorriso" (in Soriso near Lago Orta)
Meal began with a glass of '94 Saraacco Muscato d' Autumno (bubbly,
fruity, delicious) and the chef's opening treat: "quenelle of fish
from the lake"
Antipasti:
Terrina di Figato Grasso con Animelle e Gelatina di Rose (goose liver
and sweetbreads pate served with a port sauce -J)
Rosetta di Patate con Taccole e Pesce Persico (local perch with
slices of potato & snow peas topped with a drizzle of olive oil and
lemon -S)
Olive Bread and Grape Bread were served with the meal (excellent)
Primi piatti:
Crema di Fagioli Borlotti con Pencitta fritta e Scampi al Basilico
(cream of bean sauce topped with scampi, fried bacon bits, tiny dices
of zucchini and carrot - beautiful presentation of the head & claws
of the scampi, which are part of the lobster family - J&S)
Raviloni verdi del Sorriso con Caprino fresco al Burro Fuso (green
pasta ravioli filled with cheese served with a light butter and
parmesan cheese sauce and topped with small basil leaves - J&S)
Secondo piatti:
Il bue Piedmontese (fassone) con Mid Allo al Profumo di Tartufo
(Very thick piece of beef (steak) pan fried; served sliced,
accompanied with asparagus (al dente), carrot mousse, sauteed
potatoes and bone marrow. A wonderful brown sauce was served over
the beef and marrow - J&S)
Formaggi:
I Formaggi delle Nostre Valli (Piedmonte) Jim had a selection of
twelve different cheeses, I had a selection of twelve different
cheeses (none of which duplicated any of those Jim had) Our
selections ranged from goat cheese to gorgonzola and we were given
instruction in which order to taste the cheese - "start at the top
of the plate and taste counter clockwise to the bottom of the plate,
then from the top of the plate again taste clockwise to the bottom of
the plate". These cheeses were "To Die For" and all extremely fresh.
Several of the fresh goat cheeses are made by a priest and his boys;
others made by a 52 year old guy who retired from his lace selling
business, moved to the mountains, raises goats, makes cheese, grows
bonsai (has over 4,000 of them) and wouldn't be without his airplane.
Dolci:
Dessert del Sorriso (frozen nugget parfait with a lime and mint sauce
with scattering of fraise de bois and raspberries - J&S)
Le Friandises (fraise de bois with a light custard tartlet on a creme
anglais - J&S) Marvelous desserts
Dinner Wine:
'92 Monteriolo - Chardonnay (half bottle with first 2 courses)
'82 Barbaresco - Gaja (fantastic)
Espresso's (& petit fours)
Total: 472,000L (worth every single lire)
Comments: Al Sorriso goes to the top of the list of fine dining. Everything was perfection - from the decor of the restaurant, to the impeccable and gracious service, to some of the most wonderful, delicious and beautifully presented food. We'll be back as soon as we win the lotto. "Essential Restaurants" provides a very good written description.
Wednesday - 5/17/95
"San Rocco - Hotel Restaurant" (Orta San Giulio)
Antipasti:
Slices of Salmon with Rosemary and pieces of Tomato (J)
Libello Ham with Wild Mushrooms drizzles with olive oil (S)
Primi piatti:
Spaghettini with Baby Clams and a White Clam Sauce (J)
Small Rigatoni with Eggplant, Tomato and Basil (S)
Secondo piatti:
Lamb Cutlets served on a bed of crisp fried potatoes; carrots &
zucchini (J)
Breast of Guinea Fowl with Balsamic Vinegar; carrots, zucchini &
pan fried potatoes (S)
Formaggi:
Selection of four cheeses
Dinner Wine: '87 Barbaresco - Bricco Asili
Espresso's
Total: 223,000L
Comments: The restaurant is in a very nice hotel on the lake; the meal was very mediocre and nothing to brag about. We were scheduled to go to "Antica Osteria del Ponte", but it turned out to be further away than we wanted to travel for dinner.
Thursday - 5/18/95
"Aimo e Nadia" (Milan)
Meal began with a glass of Pinot Noir Spumante
We also went with the "Il Nostro Menu" (menu proposed by Aimo/Nadia)
Antipasti:
Mousse di Spigola e Crostacei con Pane Brioche Caldo (Sea bass mousse
served with warm corn-cake style bread)
Primi piatti:
Testina e Lingua di Vitello e Creste di Gallo con Julienne di Ortaggi
di Primavera e Spinaci (Veal head and tongue with julienne of
vegetables, zucchini, carrots, & cabbage on a bed of spinach leaves;
topped with a very light drizzle of olive oil)
Tagliolini con Ragu di Vitello Sanato, Porcini e Ortaggi Freschi
(Pasta with a veal and porcini sauce)
Secondo piatti:
Fantasia di Mare con Primizie dell'Orto (Piece each of: salmon,
sea bass, shrimp, & perch served with a light olive oil based sauce
and peas, diced zucchini and diced potatoes)
Coniglio Nostrano Farcito con Capocollo e Fiori di Zucca con
Caponatina di Ortaggi (Rabbit stuffed with ham and zucchini flowers,
and served with vegetables - zucchini, red & yellow peppers & eggplant)
Fantasia di Dolci:
Barchetta Ripiena con Frutti di Bosco Cannolo alle Noci Farcito con
Ricotta; Noci e Uvetta Rotolo al Cacao con Mousse di Pistacchi
(Nutty cookie cannelloni filled with fruit and ricotta cheese;
chocolate sponge cake filled with pistachio and almond flavor
filling served with a chocolate sauce and pistachio nuts; fraise
de bois with creme anglais sauce served in a lace cookie)
Dinner Wine: '94 Villa Russiz - Collio (Sauvignon Blanc) Dessert Wine: Marco Negri (Sweet muscato asti spumante) Espresso's Grappa: Pravis - Grappa di Cabernet Total: 270,000L.
Comments: The meal was good but was not up to our expectations. The ambiance and service was rather strange. One row of the ceiling mood lights flickered sporadically, which was bothersome. Courses were served by different people so we never had a sense of which one was our waitperson. Aimo a husky middle-aged man in his chef's apron and hat would frequently walk through the dining area and sort of stop at each table and just smile and kind of nod his head and hope to be engaged in conversation (in Italian only - because he spoke no English). I got the feeling he was just really wanting to hear compliments about his restaurant and the food of which he was very proud. Before leaving, Jim & Aimo engaged in conversation with Aimo's daughter doing the interpreting. The discussion led to the subject of Grappa and Aimo giving Jim a bottle of Grappa to take with us.
Friday - 5/19/95
"Scalletta" (Milan)
Antipasti:
Coarse Duck Liver Pate with Snails in the center served with salad
greens (J)
Cod shredded and marinated in olive oil, lemon & herbs, served with
Arugala and Fava Beans (S)
Primi piatti:
Tagatelle with tender Clams and Broccoli served with a light olive
oil and herbs sauce (J)
Lasagne with ground meat & vegetables (zucchini, carrots, green beans)
served with a Bechamel Sauce
(The Lasagne had very thin slices of crisped potato at the ends of
each noodle which added an interesting touch -S)
Secondo piatti:
Kidney with Mushrooms in a creamy Curry Sauce served with Spatzle
(that had been pre-boiled then sauteed) (J)
Carppaccio (Lightly smoked beef with a hint of Rosemary) served on a
bed of Spinach, then topped with Julienne of zucchini, green beans,
leeks and carrots)
Dolci:
Chocolate Mousse (balls) with an orange flavor served with slices of
blood oranges (J)
Homemade Pistachio Ice Cream in a cookie shell drizzled with chocolate
sauce and strawberry pieces (S)
Dinner Wine: '93 Vallee D'Aoste - Petit Rouge
Espresso's
Total: 264,000L
Comments: The meal was very good. Interestingly there were no written menu's, all of the choices were verbalized, plus there was no indication what the prices were and they did not accept credit cards - only cash.Italy