vong or tru reviews?

hot wrote:
>
> if any, post, please.

OK, well we broke the budget last week and splurged on Tru.  As it happens, we visited Vong that week, too.  So despite what I said about early reviews, I'll make a few comments.  (Consider this a chi.eats exclusive.)

Tru had already changed some things between the time that they had press previews and the opening.  I understand that they decided to make construction changes to the dining room about two weeks before opening.  As I said, the Lettuce chain is notorious for tinkering with things for months after they open a new restaurant, so by the time you get there things could be completely different.

You can read my comments on the interior design, menu and preview at the Lerner newspaper site at http://www.intheloop.net/newsstand/booster/052699/EAT0526.html

Since then, they've already made minor changes to the menu, dropping the grand tasting down to nine courses for $95 ($5 less than Charlie Trotter's, with whom they clearly are competing).  That is what we had.

You don't get a list of what's coming -- that's the chef's whim.  One fault I found was that no one asked us if there was anything we didn't like or couldn't eat, a question I'd normally expect when placing my dinner choices in the hands of someone else.  I don't know if that's a policy problem or a server's goof, though.

It's really unfair to pick on the service of a place that's been open less than a week, so I'll just say they've got some bugs to work out yet.  At that price point, service ought to be polished and perfect, and it wasn't.

I have no criticisms of the food, however.  It's
wonderful.

Beyond the nine courses there were a few amuses bouches and other surprises.  Although everything was beautifully and artfully presented, the dishes weren't as twee as Trotter's food was the last time I dined there (April).  The first several courses -- a caviar staircase, a smoked salmon terrine, a salad -- seemed almost more a testament to Rick Tramonto's skill at choosing topnotch ingredients and displaying them well than to his skill at cooking, but later courses certainly validate his cuisine.

One stand-out course was venison two ways -- a nice little chop, and something the server called "osso buco," but which was really braised venison assembled into a round.  I didn't really care for the vanilla-veal sauce served on the foie gras course, but that was the only thing I didn't like.  Porcini "cappuccino" served in demitasse cups is charmingly whimsical and delicious.

The courses are all small, but you have plenty to eat by the time you're done.  (My husband wanted to stop at Burger King after our dinner at Trotter's.) Gale Gand's desserts were outstanding.  We were served an assortment of four, with petit fours to follow.  (I have one of the recipes running in next week's paper.)

They don't have a set wine pairing for the tasting menus, and I think that's a mistake.  Trotter offers a $65 wine pairing to go with his grand tasting.  We asked the sommelier, Scott Tyree, to pair wines for us, and he brought us some wonderful things, but we wound up spending as much on the wine as on the food.  (So before tip, our meal was $504 for three, with one nondrinker).

I would go back here before I went back to Trotter's. However, I think I'd go to the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton before I went back to either.  It's a different style  -- I'm sure Sarah Stegner would be happy to do a tasting menu if you asked (actually, I think she does offer one), but that's not what they emphasize.  However, less than the food, which is equally outstanding, it may be the atmosphere of quiet elegance and the air of luxury that I most appreciate. The service is unobtrusive but extremely attentive, and not at all stuffy. You really feel pampered there.

Neither Trotter's nor Tru has what I'd call a relaxing atmosphere.  But it's early days yet for Tru.  I think Tru has enormous potential, and may well become one of Chicago's best restaurants.  I'll be curious to see how it develops (maybe next year, when I can afford to eat there again).

Vong, however, is another kettle of fish.  It's fun. The service is good, what you'd expect at a place like this.  The wine steward, Brad Wermager, knows his stuff and is good at matching it to the food, a challenge with these strong flavors.

The food's great.  It isn't authentically one thing or another, but Jean- Georges Vongerichten's French-inspired riff on Asian flavors, leaning especially toward Thai and Vietnamese.  I particularly liked a spice-rubbed quail.  (Vongerichten drops in every month or two -- Geoff Felsenthal, late of Avanzare, is doing the daily cooking, after a few months at the New York restaurant and a few weeks in Asia.)  I understand the menu is a little different than New York's, though I wasn't able to find out just how.

The prices, though I'm told they're lower than in New York, are on the high side.  Appetizers run about $15 and entrees about $25.  (This is from memory -- I don't have a copy of the menu handy, but a three-course meal with with wine, tax and tip would probably run about $70.)

The room is attractive, managing to look contemporary and Asian while still being comfortable.  There are silly touches -- like brass chopsticks at every place setting, even though the food is not presented in a way to make it amenable to chopsticks, let alone heavy, slippery brass ones.  The transformation from the old Tucci Milan space is noticeable, but not dramatic.  It's lively but not too noisy.

I'm looking forward to going back.

Leah Zeldes

Tru
312/202-0001
888/LETTUCE
Fax:  312/202-0003
http://www.lettuceentertainyou.com
676 N. St. Clair St.
Chicago, IL 60611

Charlie Trotter's
773/248-6228
Fax:  773/248-6088
http://www.charlietrotters.com
816 W. Armitage Ave.
Chicago, IL 60614

Ritz-Carlton Chicago
The Dining Room
312/573-5222
Water Tower Place
160 E. Pearson St.
Chicago, IL 60611-2124

Vong
312/644-8664
888/LETTUCE
Fax:  312/644-9551
http://www.lettuceentertainyou.com
6 W. Hubbard St.
Chicago, IL 60611