Cyrano's

In article (Dans l'article) ,
 (Epicurean) wrote (crivait):

> Has anyone (tried) Didier Durands' spot at 546 N. Wells?

I've eaten at Cyrano's probably three or four times since it opened a little over a year ago -- most recently about a month ago.   I've had mostly pretty good meals there, with occasional lapses in service.  I'd judge the quality of the cooking to be similar to that at Le Bouchon.  The prices are a little higher and the menu is different.  Durand is from the southwest of France (Bergerac) and the restaurant emphasizes that connection; however I don't find too many similarities between the dishes offered at Cyrano's and the meals I've had in Dordogne area of France. The cuisine of s/w France has a lot of foie gras ( duck & goose), confit of duck, truffles, etc.  It's almost impossible to get a meal there without being served cabcou, a regional sort of goat cheese.  You're not likely to see any of these items at Cyrano's.

I think that one of the best offerings at Cyrano's is one of the rotisserie items (chicken, duck or rabbit), with which you can choose two sides from among an assortment of vegetables/starches.  The warm ratatouille and wilted spinach are very good choices.  There are also some unusual dishes with ostrich and beef cheeks.  The desserts are so-so and I was especially disappointed in the cheese plate, which is highly-touted on the menu -- a small selection of cheeses with a few grapes & walnuts strewn about.  A good selection of moderately priced wines, many from the s/w region of France.  The room is pleasant, larger than Le Bouchon, a row a banquettes along one side, simply decorated with various sorts of gilded mirrors.  A smoking area is well-separated from the main dining room. All in all, well worth a visit, especially to try a few dishes not commonly available.