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Boston, MA

Review: Chez Henri

1 post · Oct 10, 1995

Marcel L.Harvard University, Cambridge, MassachusettsOct 10, 1995
 steven M. wrote:

 >I spoke to my friend Wesley of R.Wesley's who said that he was at
 >the meat market on Tuesday and saw a package there for Chez Henri,
 >so they must be open for business by now.  He said he thinks the chef
 >there is someone who formerly worked at Providence, so the food
 >can be expected to be top notch.  I'll have to check it out next week.
 >Does anyone have the exact address?

 The exact address is 1 Shepard St. (just off Mass. Ave.).  It is
 in the old location of Chez Jean.  The _owner_ is Paul O'Connell,
 chef/owner of Providence in Brookline.  I can't remember the name
 of the chef offhand.

 My wife and I went there this Saturday.  Since the restaurant had
 just opened this past week, we were expecting some "opening glitches."
 I'm happy to say that we didn't experience any.  Service was well-
 paced and the food was excellent.  The menu has a few items which
 are similar to items at Providence, but the emphasis of the restaurant
 is quite different--so some of those items which sounded similar,
 actually turned out to be quite different.  Chez Henri offers an
 updated look at French Bistro food.  The prices are somewhat more
 reasonable than Providence, but are not at all low.  Appetizers
 are mostly in the $6-$10 range, entrees mostly from $14-$21.  Desserts
 are around $4 or $5 (I can't remember).  There was also a prix fixe
 menu for $28, including appetizer, entree and dessert (interestingly,
 the prix fixe menu items were not listed on the regular menu!).
 The wine list is decently broad (not much depth), with most bottles
 in the $20-$40 range, and approximately 6 wines by the glass.  I
 actually thought that the list was better matched to the food than
 the list at Providence (though the list doesn't have all the top
 names that Providence does).

 The restaurant is relatively sparsely decorated, but it feels right--
 quite comfortable and inviting.  It was not as noisy as I would have
 thought, given the lack of noticable sound-dampening materials, and
 the proximity of the tables to each other.  It's a shame that the
 nice big windows in front have only the side of an apartment building
 as a view.

 I ordered from the prix fixe menu, and started with a grilled squid
 salad, with a tomato and papaya salsa, atop a small mound of shredded
 cabbage.  The squid were perfectly grilled--tender, and not at all
 rubbery--and just a bit spicy, with a good taste of the grill.  The
 salsa was good, but a bit bland--I thought the papaya could have
 been a bit riper and sweeter.  The shredded cabbage, though, was
 quite good.  My wife had a green salad, which was quite good, but
 not exceptional.

 My entree was a perfectly grilled duck breast (rare) with a wonderful
 cherry sauce.  The duck was served atop a very good potato pancake--
 thick with a crispy outside and soft inside.  Lightly sauteed watercress
 was a great vegetable complement to the meal.  My wife had cod which
 was prepared with apples and calvados.  I am not a big cod fan (it
 can be pretty boring), but this was excellent.  The cod was served
 with a mound of crispy, perfectly fried onion rings.

 One interesting area of the menu was the available side orders of
 starch--tostones (twice fried plantains), yucca frites, etc.  The
 chef seems to like variations on the "normal" starches.  My wife
 ordered tostones, as she really likes them (we make them at home
 occasionally), but there are not too many restaurants around here
 where you can get them.  The tostones were very good--much like
 the ones we make.

 For dessert, my wife resisted the warm chocolate gateau (warm chocolate
 cake seems to be a repeated theme from Olives to Providence to Chez
 Henri), and ordered instead the "pot au chocolate," which was a chocolate
 custard (quite pudding-like) in a cup.  It had been dusted with
 cinnamon.  We were hoping for something a bit denser and intensely
 chocolate, given the description by our waitress, but we are a bit
 fanatical about that sort of thing.  It was quite tasty, though.
 I had a "banana millefeuille with vanilla ice cream" which was
 the only dessert with the prix fixe.  It was quite similar to Greek
 baklava, with bananas substituted for the nuts, and was wonderful.
 The ice cream complemented the millefeuille very nicely.

 All in all, we had an excellent meal.  Dinner for 2, with appetizer,
 entree, one side order and dessert (no drinks) was approximately $65
 (including tax, excluding tip).
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