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Boston, MA

Food irony

1 post · Oct 8, 1996

John P.Oceanside RubbishOct 8, 1996
 Someone wrote:

 >Speaking of original pizza, last I checked the pizza sold at the
 >various locations of Pizzeria Regina was not much like that at 11 1/2
 >Thatcher Street in the North End...

 +++ Truth in Posting Notice-> My family still a major stockholder in Pizzeria
 Regina and associated businesses (NASDAQ: BRAI) and don't think that you're
 gonna mention Regina's without me putting in my $.02 <-end of Notice.+++

 Yep everybody says that, and I tend to agree. Even though they use the same
 dough, sauce and cheese as all the other Regina's.  If it isn't the
 substantially unchanged ambiance, then it must be the 75+ year old oven, most
 insiders think.

 It's been a few years, but the Original Uno's (Corner of Wabash and Ohio) is a
 Must Visit when in Chicago. Yup, it seems _way_ better than the rest. And I'll
 bet they swear that they use the same ingredients too.

 Minor historical note: Polcari's Restaurant, Route 1 Saugus has the pizza oven
 originally used at Bianchi's on Revere Beach. This oven is said to be 50+ years
 old.

 Order yours _well done_.

 JP3  John Polcari   [email removed]   [email removed]
 ---
 " I hate quotations" -Ralph Waldo Emerson

 From [email removed] Thu Oct 17 15:47 EDT 1996
 To:
 Subject: Re: Local Boston BBQ News
 X-Msmail-Priority: Normal
 X-Priority: 3
 Content-Type: text
 Content-Length: 4640

 ----------
 > From: Mike Roberts
 >
 > -----------------------
 > Jake is back. A good article in the calendar section of the Globe today.
 > Jake of Jake and Earl's, streets of Dorchester and other environs has
 > opened Jake's Boss BBQ in Jamaica Plain. He's being backed by some of the
 > other BBQ people, Schlesinger et.al. Sounds like a field trip to me. Its
 > an interesting article with even a couple of BBQ hints.
 >
 >

 It is my understanding that Jake has the smoker that was at The East Coast
 Grill before they remodeled. I read that he moved it from Cambridge over to
 Jamaica Plain. Here is a review that was in the Boston Globe on September 29.
 I am going to add it to the restaurant review section on my website.

 If you guys are interested is scheduling a get together there, let me know. On
 another list I subscribe to, FOODWINE, groups of list members in different
 cities frequently get together for dinner at a local restaurant. They call
 that a FOODSTOCK. By the way, Jake's barbecue is also still available on the
 menu at The East Coast Grill.

 Stick -to-your-ribs barbecue

 Jake's Boss BBQ
 3492 Washington St.,
 Jamaica Plain
 Telephone: 983-3701, 983-3702
 Fax: 983-3703
 Hours: 11 a.m. - 11 p.m., daily
 Credit cards not accepted
 Wheelchair-accessible

 After several years in Cambridge, the owner of Jake and Earl's Dixie Barbecue
 pulled up stakes at his Inman Square location earlier this month and moved the
 hickory cooker across the Charles River to new digs in Jamaica Plain.

 A rib-lover's paradise, Jake's (named for owner Kenton Jacobs of Mattapan) is
 an unpretentious, mostly takeout establishment where the air is funky and down
 home. The mammoth head and neck of a raging bull with flaring nostrils stares
 down from a far wall and blues music blares from the speakers.

 There are tables inside for patrons who don't mind eating amid the bustle of
 this busy place.

 Ribs here are not to be confused with the fare served at restaurants that
 purports to be barbecue but falls short of the objective.

 Ribs at Jake's ("Earl retired," says Jacobs, by way of explaining the
 restaurant's name change.) are slow-cooked over hickory, mesquite, oak and
 cherry. They are rubbed with a dry mix of spices including chili pepper, curry
 powder and cumin pepper, instead of slathered with sauce. The meat is so
 tender it almost falls off the bones, and it's especially lean. Portions are
 accompanied by a container of sweet or hot sauce so the customer can season to
 taste.

 Besides ribs, Jake's offers sandwiches: chopped barbecue, brisket and sausage,
 served with slaw and beans ($4.50). Think twice when ordering the West Indies
 sausage, which is spiced with hot peppers. By the second bite, your mouth will
 feel as if you have swallowed fire.

 Jerk chicken dinners are $7.50, and smoked chicken is $6.95.

 For the jerk chicken, Jacobs says, "I use as many spices as I can get my hands
 on. We've got basil. We've got thyme, rosemary, allspice, oregano, cumin. I
 use white vinegar, I use a fruit juice, salt, cayenne pepper" as well as
 another pepper that he says is "the hottest pepper that's grown."

 Also available as dinners are pork ribs ($8.50), beef ribs ($7.95) and brisket
 ($8.50). Dinners come with a choice of two side orders, including coleslaw,
 potato salad, collard greens, macaroni and cheese and pinto beans.

 There are any number of combination plates. The largest, the Boss's Plate
 ($14.95), includes one-quarter smoked chicken, four pork ribs, two beef ribs,
 a 2-ounce serving each of chopped barbecue, brisket and Louisiana sausage.
 This could easily satisfy two people.

 Barbecued creations are also sold in bulk. Pork ribs go by the slab ($17) or
 the half slab ($11). There are also whole beef slabs ($11.99) and chopped
 barbecue by the pound ($9.95).

 There are boxed combinations. The largest, the Big Bad Boss's Box ($79.95),
 includes a pound of chopped barbecue, a pound of barbecued brisket, one slab
 of pork ribs, one-half jerk chicken, one-half barbecued chicken, two links of
 West Indies sausage, one quart each of beans and coleslaw, corn bread and
 buns. It serves eight people.

 Jake's is across the street from English High School, near Doyle's restaurant.
 Parking is a problem, but not an insurmountable one.

 Though Jamaica Plain boasts a vibrant mix of restaurants, the neighborhood
 lacked a barbecue place until now. Cambridge's loss is JP's gain.

 Review by: Alexander Reid, Boston Globe, September 29, 1996

 Garry Howard, Cambridge, MA
 [email removed]
 Garry's Home Cookin' Website
 http://members.aol.com/garhow/cooking.htm

 Eat first, ask questions later!

 From [email removed] Fri Oct 18 13:47 EDT 1996
 To:
 Subject: Re: Local Boston BBQ News
 X-Msmail-Priority: Normal
 X-Priority: 3
 Content-Type: text
 Content-Length: 4119

 This is the review of Jake's BBQ that was in yesterday's Boston Globe. Available online at
 www.boston.com

 Garry Howard, Cambridge, MA
 [email removed]
 Garry's Home Cookin' Website
 http://members.aol.com/garhow/cooking.htm

 Eat first, ask questions later!

 "The boss of BBQ is back, doing brisket business in JP"
 Cheap Eats Review by NATHAN COBB, 10/11/96

 JAKE'S BOSS BBQ
 3492 Washington St. (click for map)
 Jamaica Plain
 983-3701

 Hours: Tues.-Sun., 11 a.m.- 11 p.m.; closed Mon.
 Good Choices: Brisket, chopped pork, smoked chicken.
 Credit Cards: None.
 Access: Street-level entrance, all facilities on one floor.

 We've always been fond of Jake's superb brisket.

 The professional wanderings of Kenton Jacobs, aka Jake, have become something of a legend on the
 local barbecue scene. The onetime airline employee began by peddling his well-regarded smoked meats
 from a homemade rig on the streets of Dorchester during the 1980s. By 1991 he was operating Jake's
 Q-4-U in Mattapan, and was later involved in Jake's Boston Barbecue &Barin Lynn. Both operations
 failed, but Jacobs' culinary reputation sizzled. Most recently he was pitmaster at the late Jake &
 Earl's in Cambridge, a closet-sized operation with a dedicated following among sauceheads.

 But Jake is not through. Last month he opened Jake's Boss BBQ in Jamaica Plain, an informal and
 mostly takeout operation tucked between Doyle's ancient saloon and the Midway Cafe. His financial
 backers are a gaggle of local restaurateurs and foodies, a group that includes Chris Schlesinger of
 the East Coast Grill in Cambridge (his old boss at J&E's) and Robert Gregory of Redbones in
 Somerville. These folks are motivated less by profit than their desire to see Jacobs succeed, i.e.
 stay in one place.

 Say this for Jake's Boss BBQ: It smells great. The huge made-in-Missouri smoker is working hard,
 its round firebox filled primarily with hickory and mesquite. That's Jake himself behind the
 counter, in the house T-shirt and cap, a pencil over his ear. There's neon in the windows and a
 massive foam-and-plywood bull bursting through a crimson wall. Looks right, feels right.

 And the food? This is good barbecue, although we encountered a couple of missteps that we'll get to
 in a moment. Meanwhile, we've always been fond of Jake's superb brisket, and it's still as good as
 brisket gets: lean, and remarkably moist for meat that's spent up to 14 hours next to the fire. The
 chopped pork is just right, too, meaning it's obviously cooked in a vinegar-based sauce that's the
 key to this Carolina tradition. And the smoked chicken is juicy, smoky and full of flavor. (We
 didn't order the spicy jerk chicken, but the small sample offered to us suggested a feisty dish
 worth returning for.) Now the flaws: Our meaty and tender pork ribs were served almost cold, a
 mistake we'll chalk up to a bad night behind the counter. And our Louisiana andouille sausage had
 little fire or taste. Most seriously, our massive beef ribs were too fatty and without the flavor
 we're used to getting from Jake. Barbecue being more art than science, maybe they'll be better next
 time.

 Jake dry rubs most of his meats with a mix of spices - key ingredient: dry molasses - before
 cooking. The saucing is up to you. You can have it on top, on the side or not at all. The two
 basic, tomato-based sauces are hot and sweet. They're both thin, both lively. There are also honey
 mustard and cranberry mustard sauces, primarily for the large, tasty chicken wings.

 You can order your food in a variety of sizes: sandwiches ($4.50-$5), dinners ($5.50-$8.50), combo
 plates ($11.50-$14.95) and bulk ($9.95-$79.95). The dinners come with a choice of two side dishes.
 We recommend the perfectly cooked collard greens and especially the wonderful pinto beans laced
 with bits of brisket.

 Jake's has seating for about 20 people at small tables, but the boss says about 60 percent of the
 business is takeout. Some folks carry their barbecue next door to the Midway Cafe and watch sports
 on TV. Like us, they believe life is sustained by the Three B's: barbecue, beer and baseball.
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