New Orleans for newbie?

Dave H. wrote:
}I would recommend Galatoire's at 209 Bourbon Street for lunch. This is a }family owned restaurant since 1905. I was born and raised in Louisiana and }have always loved this restaurant.  I went there a few months back after }being away for many years and the place hasn't changed a bit.  During the }week there's usually a line before it opens at 11:30 am.  On weekends it }probably won't be as crowded. Most of the people you'll see there are }natives. At one time they had a very strict dress code but I don't think they }inforce that except at dinner. (You had to have a coat and tie at all times.)

I second the recommendation. Have the assorted oyster appetizer. As of two years ago (Bog, has it been that long?) they had a small "casual" dress area to the side for dinner. Despite the horrendous heat and humidity, I don't recommend taking advantage of this. The waiters act as if they have been sent to wait tables at a MacDonald's, and everyone in the room just seems uncomfortable and ill-at-ease.

Other wonderful and expensive places include the Court of Seven Sisters and Antoine's. One place that I would recommend is a Spanish place just across the street from the River Walk. I can't remember the name, but it is the only major Spanish place in the Yellow Pages as of two years ago, it begins with an 'A', and it is certainly the only one across from River Walk. Wonderful authentic (I've been told) food from one region in Spain; I believe it was Andalusia. Incredible paella in almost ridiculously large quantities. Dark, dim, but oh so cool and comfortable atmosphere.

Also be sure to have a muffaletta at/from Central Grocery in the Quarter. A true New Orleans delicacy.

For brunch, especially on Sunday, go to Brennan's. Expect to spend about 3 hours on brunch, and expect to drop $50-$60 per person including drinks/wine (a standard with New Orleans brunch). Bring a BIG appetite, make reservations well in advance, and arrive very early so you can enjoy a Bloody Mary or a Mimosa under the large banana trees outside in the courtyard.

BTW, I hope you know what you are getting into with regards to the heat/humidity. When my wife and I arrived in mid-July, our cab pulled up to the hotel at 2:30am, and it was at that hour 85 degrees F and 90% humidity. Just imagine what it was like during the day! Dress lightly and in cotton!

Lastly, a fun day might be as follows: Get up early (a relative term at best in New Orleans) and have coffee and beignets at Cafe' du Monde' (the original one on the river side of the quarter, NOT the one in River Walk!). Take the trolley to the Aquarium of the Americas, and spend 1-3 hours there. Then buy a ticket on the "riverboat" (it's just a normal ferry) and go up-river to the Audobon Zoo. They've done *amazing* things to that zoo in the last 20 years! Take as many hours as necessary to go through the zoo from the river end to the main entrance end, then walk/shuttle bus out the main entrance and up the road to catch the St. Charles Streetcar. Ride it all the way back as close to the Quarter as it gets, make the brief walk back to the quarter (assuming you are staying there), take a much-needed and welcomed (by you and others) cool shower, rest, then go out for a nice dinner and perhaps some spontaneous dancing/drinking/singing/carousing for the next 8-72 hours.  ;-)

Oh, yes. You'll be there with family. Well, the walking tours of the French Quarter given by the Friends of the Cabildo are very interesting. They leave from the ?east? side of the Cabildo square (?Jackson Square?) from a little museum/shop. Ask at any major hotel. You'll even learn the origin of the word cocktail (which naturally originated in New Orleans), and if you get the right guide you'll get a detailed history of the failed attempts at repression of gay bars and a good earful of the political wickedness and greed of the Catholic Church locals through the years.

My husband and I tried several places for gumbo, and found one that was much more outstanding than the famous Gumbo place (name I forget).  The one we liked was the Coffee Pot, a rather small unassuming place.  We went back several times!

Katie Horne in Ann Arbor, MI

Curtis J. wrote:

>Other wonderful and expensive places include the Court of Seven
                                                           ^^^^^
>Sisters and Antoine's. One place that I would recommend is a

That's Court of Two Sisters, on Royal Street.

>Also be sure to have a muffaletta at/from Central Grocery in the
>Quarter. A true New Orleans delicacy.

The atmosphere at Napoleon House (St. Louis and Chartres) is a bit nicer than at CG, and the muff is almost as good.

Katie H. wrote:
>My husband and I tried several places for gumbo, and found one that was
>much more outstanding than the famous Gumbo place (name I forget).  The one
>we liked was the Coffee Pot, a rather small unassuming place.  We went back
>several times!

The place that comes immediately to mind when thinking of gumbo in New Orleans is The Gumbo Shop, which is located at 630 St. Peter St. in the Quarter.  It's OK at best.  Some much better alternatives are:

Mr. B's Bistro (200 block of Royal St.) -- their chicken and andouille gumbo is better than their seafoo version.

Mother's (Poydras and Tchopitoulas) -- known more for their po-boys, Mother's does a good seafood gumbo.

Bruning's (West End Park) -- solid seafood gumbo

The Copeland's restaurants also do a pretty decent chicken and andouille gumbo.