I was flabbergasted by this 1.5 star review of North Pond on MSN's Sidewalk Chicago site. The critic had some pretty bad visits, I guess. I've been there a couple of time and found the service attentive and friendly, the food tasty, fresh and nice to look at, the ambiance a delight, and the chef to be a nice lady. For NP to get fewer stars than, say, Bricks ... huh? NP is one of my favorite places to eat in the city, so maybe I'm biased. But ol' Brad here seems to have a beef, or maybe he's just a snitty guy. It's a lovely walk, even in the winter -- some might say, especially when there is snow on the trees. So don't listen to Brad on that one! >>>> North Pond Cafe is a peculiar place. Situated on a jogging path that winds through Lincoln Park, next to a pond, this rustic lodge would appear to be the perfect place to stop for a bottle of water and a quick carbo load. But that's not what you'll find here as an endless parade of fitness buffs undoubtedly discover as they wander in seeking such simple pleasures. Instead, it's a full-service restaurant with high aspirations and a lofty fine-dining menu. A passage on the menu states, "North Pond Cafe has looked to the philosophy of the Arts and Crafts movement. Thus the cooking reflects simplicity, closeness to nature, use of quality organic products, incorporating strong, natural flavors." Closeness to nature? Sure, it's in the park. Quality products? Yes, the ingredients are unquestionably top-notch, with lots of unique heirloom fruits and vegetables. Strong flavors? Yes, but strong isn't always a good thing. Simplicity? Hardly. Sassafras grilled duck with Smithfield ham and oyster gumbo is hardly simple. Neither is pepita- (pumpkin seed) roasted Amish chicken with tortilla stuffing, fava beans, cauliflower and mole sauce. Or grilled venison loin and venison ragout paired with chile relleno and ancho chile-berry sauce. In fact, most of the food here is far too complicated. Much of it makes no sense. The venison ragout that came with the venison loi n was not only unnecessary, it also was hideously ugly (looked like pureed stew) and tasted awful (very strong flavor). The loin was overcooked to the point it tasted like dry liver. One simple appetizer combined grilled peaches with kale, purslane (common, garden-variety weed) and red torpedo onions (shaped like baby carrots) with a sour cherry butter vinaigrette. It proved to be far too many contrasting strong flavors for one dish. Furthermore, the purslane was nothing but a wiry mass of stems, with hardly any of the flavorful leaves. House-cured salmon tasted fine but was oddly paired with tiny red potatoes, watercress and two types of caviar. Does this mean there's nothing to love about North Pond Cafe? No. A salad of heirloom tomatoes, arugula and squash-blossom fritters was indeed simple and simply divine. Grilled tenderloin "chop" with sour-cream potato terrine was good, though it looked even better than it tasted. Service lacked polish on our visits. Twice, we weren't told the kitchen had run out of something until after we ordered it. "Sorry," our uninterested waiter informed us, "we're out of that." North Pond Cafe actually makes a lot of sense in the summertime. And perhaps even in late spring or early fall when the weather cooperates and a walk around the park is appealing. But with no parking or vehicle access within 100 yards of the restaurant, getting here (and later leaving) in cold weather spoils the peaceful, rustic effect of dining alongside the water. Who's there: Lincoln Park baby boomers. People talking about their latest real estate purchase. A few couples. What to wear: Even though a constant parade of gym shorts-wearing (or fleece-wrapped) joggers files in through the door, most don't stay for dinner. This is a fairly dressy place. Wear something nice (but remember, it's a trek from the street). Where to sit: If weather permits, there's outdoor seating. But you can't drink alcoholic beverages outdoors; this is city property. Why go: When the weather's nice (or tolerable), the view of Lincoln Park, the ducks in the pond and the residential skyline is outstanding. Lost?: Finding this place is tricky, as it's not visible from the street. Look for a small sign that points toward a foot path. Bring a cell phone (or bread crumbs) just in case. Brad A. Johnson, Sidewalk
Chicago, IL