NNTP-Posting-Date: 30 May 2002 06:33:31 GMT Xref: usenet.INS.cwru.edu ba.food:88833 As requested, I'm posting on my recent culinary adventure in Paris. Note the OT, which should prevent any sensitive souls from wasting time on this rather long post... First off, this was an unexpected bonus trip with no budget allocation, so no Michelin stars this trip, just a steady stream of amazing multi-course meals for EUR23 or less. Second, Dennis Suchta and Michael Sierchio have won my everlasting thanks (of dubious value, but warmly extended) for their excellent recommendations. Also, thanks to Andrea Bornschlegel for the La Ferme Saint-Hubert recommendation. I went to La Ferme Saint-Hubert twice, because I *had* return to Fauchon and Hediard and because I ordered so badly on my first visit. I don't speak French, though I can usually make my way through a menu and will try almost anything. France and China will challenge that, again and again. Dying for vegetables, I pointed at what the woman next to me had -- a plate of spinach, gratin dauphinois, and what looked like sausage with cheese sauce, and said 'I'll have that.' The waiter said something about tripe and wrinkled his nose. I should have listened, it turned out to be saucisson au roqueforte, and it was the closest thing to ass I have ever eaten. For me, not so good. I managed to eat it, but I definitely didn't get the best of this cheese-obsessed kitchen. On my return visit, I had the Croquette de Camembert, hot little Camembert beignets on a crisp cold salad, truly divine. I dream about this dish. Dinners at L'Endroit and Baracanes, on the same street in the Marais, were each better than the other. Both offered a 3-course menu du marche for EUR 23 that far surpassed the average $23 entree at the chichi spot of the moment here at home. As Dennis said, the care and innovation that went into these courses was truly something to behold. At L'Endroit, I remember the hip, modern surroundings with as much pleasure as I do the food. My girlfriends and couldn't get enough of the tiny oysters, langostines and salmon in a puff pastry, bathed in a fish fume-infused cream sauce, or the salad gourmand, which featured lightly-dressed greens and haricots verts topped with morsels of duck confit and thinly sliced smoked duck breast. For entrees, we swapped tastes of monkfish over stewed leeks with an ethereal Bearnaise sauce, and a wonderful gigot of lamb baked with black olive tapenade and circles of goat cheese, served in a pool of a tomato coulis spiced with cinnamon and clove -- very North African -- with a casual yet elegant tangle of fresh tagliatelle. The complexity of the flavors was so enjoyable. For dessert, none of us could resist the crepe filled with poached pears, which was gathered up like a little purse on a pool of rich, dark chocolate sauce. At Baracanes, I will remember the chef peeking out to observe the room, carefully pacing each table in this tiny bistro. I will also remember an original salmon tartine, served on filo with a dusting of toasted cumin. Delicious, and nicely followed by a daube of beef and spring leeks and then a mille-feuille with caramel ... I have no memory for the French but wish I could enjoy this creation closer to home. At Petite Picard, I was truly stunned by the value for money. Though it was recommended for its EUR11 lunch, I was only able to get there for the 3-course EUR14.50 dinner. A tartine of boudin noir was rich and unctious, nicely balanced by the accompanying mache salad. The tournedos de saumon were deceptively impressive: what looked like a thick but humble salmon steak turned out to be a filet wrapped around haricots verts -- to resemble the spine -- and bathed in a to-die-for fennel creme sauce. The dessert, an egg white concoction with 'fruits rouge,' was odd but refreshing. The wine, a Sancerre Rouge, was something I wanted to try and was glad I did. The service was as friendly as can be, no one seemed to mind that I was dining alone in a crowded restaurant, no one rushed me. I thoroughly enjoyed the Poilane bread and apple tart, the delicious chopped liver sandwich on the Rue de Rosiers, the cheeses and charcuterie from the Sunday Marche Biologique, everything I tried from the boulangerie close to my hotel, and the Berthillon glace everywhere I could find it. And two really girly stops that I would do again in a heartbeat: La Duree for the most decadant chocolat chaude in a lovely little tea room (the sweets were tempting, but I thought the combination would surely bring on anaphylactic shock), and the elegant little salon at Mariage Freres for tea and tarts in the afternoon. Other trip notes: no Veeraswamy in London due to flight delays but the London Eye was a kick in the pants, Neal's Yard was as good as ever, and Paul's Patisserie was truly divine (thanks, Meg!). Scotland offered tremendous eating, I ordered scallops every chance I could, what with them being served with the coral and all, and I can offer recommendations for Ayr, should anyone head that way. What an amazing few weeks ... I've think I've got gout but I'm happy. -Amalia From [email removed] Wed Mar 5 14:06:11 EST 2003 Article: 56983 of rec.food.restaurants
Paris, France