=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Canada: British Columbia: Frequently Asked Questions Mini-Reviews/Recommendations of Vancouver (and surrounds) Restaurants
Version 0.5 Release Date: Aug 8, 1994
Author: [email removed]
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= "Which restaurant(s) should I visit..." appears to be in the top two ques-
tions for Vancouver. So I figured that I'd start a list that could be
mailed to all those who wish. I blindly typed [ the typos you may find are
mostly likely my fault ] reviews from any source that I could find. I hope
that this list will evolve into a list of "best of"s based on net-resp-
onse. If you wish to add to, or preferably suggest some to drop from, this
list (either restaurants, or comments), please email me. If you are affil-
iated in some way with any organization relevant, please include that
fact. BTW: I am not affiliated with anything but my stomach.
VanMag: Vancouver Magazine: They pay for all meals, and visit each
restaurant at least twice, anonymously, before reviewing. They usually
describe dishes that represent a particular restaurant's approach to
cooking, which may not always be available because menus change [ed note:
I usually didn't feet like typing it all in, look for the magazine if you
are interested]. They recommend any restaurant that a comment is provided
for. Older reviews have a rating. Price-range estimates are based on a
three-course meal without wine. [ $ <30, $$ 30-60, $$$ >60 ] Let's Go: A 'budget' guide printed by Harvard Press. Secrets: Out of a pair of books on Vancouver by Anne Petrie.
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=-= Casual/Funky =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Bel Air Cafe 950 W. Broadway 736-2438 $$ The real-fruit-juice mixed drinks, homemade sauces, big desserts, around-
the-world
selection of dishes formula diligently followed. Elaborate menu
from Tokyo (yaki soba) to New York (Waldorf salad). Good sandwiches.
Dancing some nights. - VanMag March 1994
Earl's various n/a $$ Feel-good eateries with aggressive global shopping plan to ensure high-
quality ingredients for menu that boils down to burgers, pasta, ribs,
Caesar salad. Much, in the end, is rather ordinary but dry crispy ribs
with coarse salt and cracked pepper a face with Albino Rhino beer. Chipper
staff show uncommon skill with children. - VanMag March 1994
Hamburger Mary's 1202 Davie St. 687-1293 $
-A gay landmark. Basic burg a six-ouncer with house bbq sauce-close as it
gets to backyard BBQ taste. Other varieties: blue cheese burg slathered in
blue-a felicitous combo; ranchero with fried egg and bacon. Peerless
fries, golden crisp, thick, fluffy, glistening with clean, fresh oil.
- VanMag March 1994
-Heralded for the best burgers in town, which come in many varieties.
- Let's Go 1993
Harpo's 1215 Thurlow St. 685-8410 $ Once tops in this price range, now somewhat fallen. Rosemary-roasted
caramel-colored crispy-skinned chicken less succulent than before. Fried
still top-notch but once deluxe brandy and peppercorn sauce now under-
salted, merely peppery, devoid of sweet savor of brandy. A few salads to
balance out food groups. Not licensed. - VanMag March 1994
Milestones various locations n/a $ Tex-Mex focus. Inspired toppings for genuine smoky charbroiled hamburgers;
mango chutney and cream cheese; guacamole, salsa and Monterey Jack cheese.
Large sides of curly fries accompany. Lively atmosphere and personable
staff at Fourth Avenue location. - VanMag March 1994
Red Robin various locations n/a $ Shrooms-Kinda-Mushroom burger too cute, but once past darling names you
have a good patty in this have-a-swell-time burger joint. Whiskey River
burg rich, addicting and served with huge bowl of extra BBQ sauce for
dipping. Fajitas fine but everything else problematic.
- VanMag March 1994
Santa Fe Cafe 1688 W. 4th Ave 738-877 $$ Warm, sophisticated Santa Fe feel a la Kitsilano brings inventiveness with
salsa and chilies to fish and bird standbys. Southwestern crepe yields
predictable tortilla round. Roasted acorn squash soup is a standout.
- VanMag March 1994
Sodas 375 Water St. 683-7632 $ Spindly halogen lamps clash with Dean, Monroe, Brando in diner spin-off.
Fat, well-browned patties, the barbecued version with decent sauce,
dollops of sprouts and squares of melted cheese. Good New York-cut fries
at surcharge. Odd technicolor flavor in cantaloupe, apple, pineapple,
pecan custard tart pie. Licensed. - VanMag March 1994
Sophie's Cosmic Cafe 2095 W. 4th Ave. 732-6810 $$ Vaguely retro cafe in which junky eclecticism manages to be goofy and
comfortable where so many others fall flat. Excellent, creative burgers
(curly fried with house-blend hot sauce extra), but some sandwiches dis-
appoint (fresh basil-garlic pesto veggie proved drab). Espresso shots
punch up traditional cannister shakes. Myriad free-range egg breakfasts
pull in weekend brunchers by the hundreds. - VanMag March 1994
Tommy Africa's 1010 Beach Ave. 683-1993 Let everybody else line up for hours to get a chic patio seat at Bridges on
Granville Island. Smart guys watch and laugh from the deck at Tommy
Africa's on the English Bay side of the water. Although the trendy menu is
a bit off-putting (do you really want to order something called a Bongo
Bongo Burger or sip from a drink with a name like Electric Banana or
African Violet?), but the location and view from this converted paddle
wheeler make it all bearable. If the weather turns, inside is just as
pleasant, with a bright green and white rattan decor. If you happen by on
a Wednesday night around 9:00, don't be surprised when you hear the
television blaring. It's the weekly "Dynasty" Party, attended by west
enders of all sexes who come dressed Alexis-style to hoot and holler at
the video antics of the Colby-Carrington crowd. - Secrets
WaaZuBee Cafe 1622 Commercial Dr. 253-5299 $ Consciously hip (but friendly) Commerical Drive drop-in spot where food is
sometimes hit or miss but prices and people-watching always spot on. Great
value in short, quirky wine list. - VanMag March 1994
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=-= Chinese =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Bill Kee Restaurant 8 W. Broadway 874-8522 $ Cleaner and more pleasant than most of the city's Chinese joints. Delect-
able Contonese food straight from Hong Kong. The wonton soup is a meal in
itself. Take-out and free delivery. - Let's Go 1993
Bodai Vegetarian Restaurant 337 E. Hastings St. 682-2666 $$ This restaurant features adventures with bean curd and wheat gluten in the
Chinese Buddhist tradition. The room is bright and modern.
- VanMag March 1994
Chilli House 611 E. Broadway 873-4688 $ The menu suggests another pedestrian Chinese/Southeast Asian hybrid, hole-
in-the-wall restaurant, but the food is surprisingly well made and of very
good value. As for the decor ... what decor? Service is cheerful.
- VanMag Jan/Feb 1994
Grandview 60 W. Broadway 879-8885 It's whispered about as the best Szechwan cooking in the world. And it may
be, given the skills of chef Lu Lei-chang, once a cook for Chiang Kai-shek
and now the man in charge of the kitchen at this West Broadway establish-
ment. The location is on one of the particularly ugly parts of this street
(the "grand view" is mostly of a parking lot), but don't let that stop you
from sampling dishes like Eggplant in Hot Garlic Sauce or Chicken with Dry
Tangerine Peel. Szechwan cooking is from the western part of China and can
range from hot to very hot, but there are also plenty of non-spicy dishes
on the extensive menu. On Sundays go for the unique vegetarian brunch,
which includes items like braised king "prawns" made from bean-curd skins.
- Secrets
Green Door 111 E. Pender St. 685-4194 $
-This legendary, wildly green establishment takes a prominent place in the
annuals of Vancouver hippie lore. Huge portiosn of slightly greasy Chinese
seafood. Not licensed. - Let's Go 1993
-One of the famous "door" restaurants in markey Alley north of Pender. This
is the only one that survives but call first to make sure it's still open
- Secrets
Hon's 108-268 Keefer St. 688-0871 $ The new Hons has new thinking behind it-the service is better, the room is
cleaner and brighter, and you seldom wait long. There are endless var-
iations. Try rice noodles with boiled beef, wonton and lettuce plus Hon's
chili oil. - VanMag March 1994
Landmark Hot Pot House 4023 Cambie St. 872-2868 $$ The specialty is two-soup hot pot (with a peanut soup on one side and a
broth on the other) into which the diner plunges elaborately prepared but
raw foods ordered from an intriguing. It's a communal way of eating.
Nothing is spicy, but the kitchen will, if asked, provide a fine chili
sauce. Plump whole scallops and writhing live prawns are highlights.
Service is informed and prompt. - VanMag March 1994
Moutai Mandarin 1710 Davie St. 681-2288 $$ A very snazzy restaurant at English Bay, full of unexpected colours and
textures. Most of the best things on the menu are Szechuan: the famous
dry-fried green beans; tweice-cooked pork; shredded chicken Szechuan-
style; shredded pork in chili, sour and garlic sauce. The shredded chicken
was wonderful. Moutai Mandarin chicken was also good, the meat in a
ginger-rich glaze with crisp, fried seaweed. - VanMag March 1994
Park Lock 544 Main St. 688-1581 $ For Chinatown dim sum, this is a favorite; smaller than many dim sum
houses, upstairs, with decor that has a '50s flavour and a kitchen that
emphasizes seafood. Food is prepared with minimum grease and delivers
maximum flavor. - VanMag March 1994
Pink Pearl 1132 E. Hastings St. 253-4316 $$
-Enormous restaurant, renovated in 1990, producing remarkably good Canton-
ese food from a roaring-busy-kitchen. Do not come here for quiet or cod-
dling. Brigades of suited waiters survey the acreage and do a creditable
job. The predictable dishes are done well, but consider the deboned duck
stuff with a pasty taro root mixture. Dim sum is also very good.
- VanMag March 1994
-It's outside Chinatown but it comes up again and again on the top ten. If
the weekend line-ups and almost all-oriental clientele are any proof, it
obviously rates high with the local Chinese community. Seafood is the
specialty, and there is a trick to ordering. The menu reads like standard
Cantonese fare, but the dishes you'll see whizzing past for other tables
are anything but. Best to point and ask. The daily lunchtime dim sum has
got the best variety in town. - Secrets
Red House 1495 Kingsway 872-8808 If you want to know the hot new palce for Chinese food, this is it. The
Mandarin menu has line-ups out the door and down the street on Saturday
night for dishes like their Crab and Black Bean Sauce, which was the best
that any of our group of six had ever had anywhere. The interior is
elegant, with white tableclothes, silver serving dishes and red velvet
chairs, but the prices are the same as anywhere else and a feast,
including beer, is usually about $13 per person. - Secrets
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=-= Other European =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Adega 1022 Main St. 685-7818 $$ The atmospheric rear room is loaded with stonework, rustic fixtures, rugged
fisherman murals and an old wine barrel, and is best for this solid, rich
Portuguese country cooking. The food can be delicious; try the bacalhau a
gomes sa, a succulent casserole of potatoes, salted cod, onions and oilve
oil, sublimely satisfying. Open with big, charbroiled sardines. Beef liver
was a tad overdone but came with savory, winey juices and potatoes. The
pork with clams has been good on several tries. Vegetables are less
interesting. - VanMag March 1994
Anatoli Souvlaki 5 Lonsdale Ave, N. Van 985-9853 $$ Pleasant warm creams and browns replace blue-and-white standard for Greek
interiors. Expectatios met if not surpassed by calamari, lamb and Greek
salad and other hallmarks of Hellenic cooking. Lunchtime presents Greco-
Roman fusion pita-pizza, unispiring but a clean and simple bargain. Banter
between staff gives vague sensation of dining on a Saturday Night Live
set. - VanMag March 1994
Chartwell 791 W. Georgia 844-6715 $$$ Flavors and textures mellifluously combined. Escargot with geoduck; pate
with cilantro chips; duck and pheasant combo unusually succulent;
Chardonnay steamed lobster sine qua non shell-fish. Perfect pommes Anna
and imaginative vegetables. Apple tart and chocolate souffle, etc.
irresistible. Wood paneling, fireplace give rich, clubby feel. Expert
service, quiet, elegant. Licensed. Four Season Hotel. - VanMag March 1994
Kalamata Greek Taverna 478 W. Broadway 872-7050 $$ An unsung find. One of the best Greek restaurants in Vancovuer, virtually
in the shadow of city hall. Pan-fried calamari glistens; roast lamb
approaches love-song tenderness; pita and hummus unrivaled. Bonus in the
form of wonky interior unintentioanlly reminiscent of PeeWee's Playhouse.
Huge servings. - VanMag March 1994
Le Grec 1447 Commercial Dr. 253-1253 $$ Trendy sun-painted walls and funky art dress up this Commercial Drive hot
spot. Always busy, always friendly, and the mezethes (Greek tapas) always
worth coming for. Skordalia - a mash of potatoes, almonds and a ton of
garlic - and artichokes with capers, onions and red wine vinaigreet are
especially good. Full wine list is reasonably prices, and consistently
good entree specials (think pan-fried tuna with pilaf and fresh veggies)
change nightly. - VanMag March 1994
Russian and
Ukrainian Restaurant 3124 Main St. 876-5810
-Both the exterior and interior of this Main Street restaurant have such a
Siberian feel, takeout may be your best bet. Whatever, a visit for the
homemade bread, cabbage rolls, meat dumplings and six types of pyrogies
(including blueberry with honey) is worth it. - Secrets
-They have recently (summer 1994) renovated ... - S. Kostur
Santos Tapas 1191 Commercial Dr. 253-0444 $$ Neighbourly room in one of the city's most colourful neighbourhoods. Full
menu available, but the fun (and the forte) here is tapas: garlic potatoes
(sadly underdone), fabulous grilled fat sardines dressed with raw onions,
spicy sausage arriving in flaming dish, sweet, delicious garlicky grilled
squid. All good with beer or (pricey) sangria and the company of friends.
- VanMag March 1994
Souvlaki Place 1807 Morton 689-3064 $ A Greek place pulsating with wailing Mediterranean music. - Let's Go 1993
Stephos 1124 Davie St. 683-2555 $ Much more elegant than The Souvlaki Place, and the prices are only slightly
higher. - Let's Go 1993
Water St. Cafe 300 Water St. 689-2832 $$ Among the most enduringly popular lunch spots in town; evening menu offers
excellent value. Fairly standard bistro fare leans towards Italian: pasta
done every which way, nice hot salads, crab cakes, cioppino (fresh seafood
soup), grilled loin of lamb with mango salsa and balsamic demigalze. Gen-
erally strong follow-through, but high-light here is the setting. 1911
building's big windows look out on agreeable Gastown streetscape; steam
clock across the street blows at 15-minutes intervals. - VanMag March 1994
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=-= French =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Chez Thierry 1674 Robson St. 688-0919 $$$ Small, unruffled environs in which to wind down. Great strength in service
with loyal patrons coming for familial care offered by rambunctious host.
And for reliable mainstream French fare. Good bet for late evening sweet
with dessert wine or coffee. Food comme il faut but tending to too salty.
Licensed. - VanMag March 1994
La Toque Blanche 4368 Marine Dr, W. Van. 926-1006 $$ Alumna of West Coast cedar-and-greenery school, a great favorite with the
locals. Quiet and plain, clubby interior but there is vigor on the plate.
Caesar slada is properly-sized portion with light, tart dressing; creamy
zucchini soup of the day, loaded with dill, raised boring veg to new
heights; best appetized is half-dozen escargot wrapped in crispy, tiny
filo triangles shot full of garlic and brie; interesting striploin with
hazelnut, walnut, bourbon sauce; slices of roast duck breast strewn with
crispy curly-cues of crackling and sauces with amber calvadoes; succulent
beef medallions. Dessert stand-out; beautifully presented trio of choc-
olate mousse quenelles on pool of vanilla sauce, too good to share.
Adequate wine list. Licensed. - VanMag Apr. 93 ***
Le Coq D'or 3205 W. Broadway 733-0035 $$ Fresh yellow room, judiciously accented, soothes the spirit. Menu massages
with peppery cognac pate, onion soup, super seafood sausages for intros;
typical French fare, as in roast chicken, coq au vinaigre with smooth tart
tomato sauce, kidneys, for mains. Summerhill bubbly by the glass and
professional service add joie. Licensed. - VanMag March 1994
Le Crocodile 100-909 Burrard St 669-4298 $$$ Yellow walls a la Monet's Giverny bulge with crowds of fashionable well-to-
do's in chef Jacob's more elegant new location. Original menu stands (fine
examples of the bistro art) but bolstered by new inventions. Self-import-
ant staff warm up in proportion to size of your check. Licensed. Enter on
Smithe. - VanMag Jan 93 ***
William Tell 765 Beatty St. 688-3504 $$$ Beige-on-Beige beautiful, with the exquisite touch that has made Erwin
Doebli the top restaurateur in Vancouver for many years. When he moved his
old premises on Richards Street, Doebli also abandoned the Swiss menu of
his homeland. The New William Tell cuisine is classic French. Every dish
is perfection and the friendly service is a pleasant surprise. This one is
worth saving up for. - Secrets
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=-= Italian =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Alabaster 104-1168 Hamilton St. 687-1758 $$$ Sophisticated menu and formal service geared to Dining with a capital D,
especially as smallish servings and air of hushed expection could spook
less serious. Very spare Yaletown room (exposed wood beams, white walls
, art) plus sense of mission and faintly Scandinavian feel remind one of
'70s. In fact, one of city's newest restaurants. - VanMag March 1994
Anton's Pasta 4260 E. Hastings St, Bby 299-6636 $ Perpetual crush at the door testimony to popularity of giant portions of
noodles offered at better than fair prices. Everything under $10 and most
plates feed two with leftovers for the doggie bag. Myriad pastas show
little finesse but augmented by serious Caesar salad and hunks of decent
bread. Boisterous interior painted tomato and green - VanMag March 1994
Arriva Ristorante 1537 Commercial Dr. 251-1177 $ Italian cuisine for a special night out. The interior is elegant but
unpretentious, the service impeccable. A scintillating and subtle spectrum
of vegetarian, meat, and seafood sauces are available for the paste.
- Let's Go 1993
Cafe Il Nido 780 Thurlow St. 685-6436 $$ Quiet eddy in swirl of Robson Street chic. Changing menu reflects mood of
season, if not farmer's calendar. Starts better than mains as in smoked
chicken crepes with fig chutney, top drawer bow-tie pasta with tomato
sauce. - VanMag March 1994
Cafe Roma 60 Semisch, N. Van. 984-0274 $$ Above-average noodles, especially Dungeness crab on black fettuccine and
the face, hyperseasoned spaghetti trasteverini. Outstanding bread that
beats most bakeries in town. Lots of big reds in their teens.
- VanMag March 1994
CinCin Ristorante 1154 Robson St. 688-7338 $$ Nouveau-Tuscan trattoria on Robson Street where you smell the aromatic
woods smoking in the grill the moment you step inside. Outstanding thick-
cut brushetta makes an excellent starter. Most mains ordered from the
"wood-fired" side of the menu. Pizzas and pastas are more predictable.
Well-balanced wine list with more than 20 by the glass.
- VanMag March 1994
Il Barino 1116 Mainland St. 687-1116 $$$ Holding onto New Italian trend with effective trompe l'oeil. Bevy of
properly grilled vegetables accompanying all. A spot for endless var-
iations of risotto. - VanMag Jan/Feb 1994
Nick's Spaghetti House 631 Commercial Dr 254-5633 $ An old restaurant under new management. Standard Italian food in a
traditional atmosphere. The spaghetti is magnifico. - Let's Go 1993
Piccolo Mondo 850 Thurlow St. 688-1633 $$$ Downtown standby features well-executed, thoroughly sauces dishes from
Northern Italy and winning service by husband-and-wife owners. Has a new,
somewhat streamlined but still exhaustive menu. Muscular Italian wine
list. - VanMag March 1994
Villa del Lupo 869 Hamilton St. 688-7436 $$$ Charming old house reveals cozy salons and fireplace ambiance. Heavy
meat/fowl content on menu, as well as requisite pastas. Familial service.
Licensed. - VanMag Jan/Feb 1994
Zefferelli's 1136 Robson St. 687-0655 $$ Suave room a smart juxtaposition of classic and contemporary. Pasta uneven
(perfect spaghetti one time, overdone fettuccine another). Exactly grilled
dishes (chops, salmon) served with veggie melange rolled in herbs and oil.
Predictable list of wines by the glass. - VanMag March 1994
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=-= Japanese =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Arigato Sushi 6342 Bay St., W. Van 921-6300 $$ Plain but cheerful booths in which to wait for B.C. ferries. Hot kitchen.
Yaki soba and gyoza on the dull side but stable sashimi a refreshing note
in a neighborhood dominated by burgers, pizza, fish-and-chips. No deathly
chill to sushi on delicately vinegared rice. Amiable but decorous service.
- VanMag March 1994
Ezogiku Noodle Cafe 1684 Robson St. 687-7565 $ Tiny mod noodle house with faux stone walls, cobalt sconces and tiny hang-
ing halogens. Two-bite piping hot gyoza are very good here. But noodle
bowls are the raison d'etre. Not licensed. - VanMag March 1994
Hato Popo 1044 Robson St. 683-6111 $ Most cavernous of several Robson Street noodle houses offering decent
helpings of noodle at more than decent prices. Try crispy Nagasaki noodles
under squid and scalop, spicy eggplant yakiudon or myriad daily sushi
creations. - VanMag March 1994
Hoshi 203-645 Main St 689-0877 $$$ The city's most interesting Japanese dishes, all reliably fresh and
delicious and likely to startle; monkfish liver like buttery seafood
mousse accented with grated radish and light vinegar. But subtlety
sometimes slides to blandness as in steamed shiitake mushrooms and black
bowl of teensy pink shrimp on grated radish. Sushi and sashimi among the
best. Licensed. - VanMag Dec 1992 ***
Japanese Bistro Kitsilano 1815 W. 1st Ave. 734-5858 $ Good quick sushi stop holding its own in Kits Point mini diner strip. Fair
standards, plus $12.95 all-you-can-eat sushi and tempura, and savory
yu-dofu. - VanMag March 1994
Japanese Deli House 381 Powell 681-6484 $ Take-out deli with restaurant across the street. All-you-can-eat suschi.
- Let's Go 1993
Kamei Robata 1414 W. Broadway 732-0112
various others $$
Turns up the heat on the sushi bar, offering the usual raw fish concoctions
of adequate style as backdrop to grilled and fried items. Lunch combos are
good and filling, if pedestrian and include soup and salad.
- VanMag March 1994
Kitto 1212 Robson St. 662-3333
833 Granville St. $
Vital, busy, busy, busy little Japanese grill with black paint and orange
Arborite passing itself off as rich lacquer. Excellent full-meal noodle
soups and tempura round out many grilled pleasures. The deep-fried dishes
(squid and soft-shelled crabs) are not a bit greasy. Hyper-crunchy pickles
a must-order. - VanMag March 1994
Koko 2053 E. Hastings St. 251-1328 $$
-Has hallmarks of a great neighborhood hangout: noisy, comfortable and a
little shabby. Always fresh and well-presented sushi. Surprising squid
tempura and cold ramen salad. Scallops mixed with flying fish roe a
specialty. - VanMag March 1994
Noodle Express 747 Thurlow St. 669-1234 $ Tokyo noodle house complete with goofy logo showing cartoon chef in a
little train. Noodles very good but broth may seem a bit strong until you
order the miso version, which is delicate, yet full-bodied. Accompanying
the basic bowl; roast pork, bamboo shoots, pickled cabbage, spicy pickles,
seaweed. The sprinkling of fried garlic is essential.
- VanMag March 1994
Raku 4422 W. 10th Ave. 222-8188 $$ Beautiful, serene room in gray, modern, Zen-like way. Service, once
overwhelmed at peak times, now improved. Plan a long night of talk and
nibbling over extensive list of small items amounting to Japanese tapas.
Occasional misses, but most delight. Try cold draft sake.
- VanMag March 1994
Tama Sushi 200-1595 W. Broadway 738-0119 $$ Battery of chummy sushi chefs work bar central to big, bright and stylish
(drifting jazz, discreet halogens) spot, where rice and fish reach new
heights over West Broadway corner. Top-drawer selections include delicate,
nongreasy yaki soba with onion slivers and ornate, bonsai-feel veg roll.
Tama rooms afford English Bay view. - VanMag March 1994
Tojo's 202-777 W. Broadway 872-8050 $$$ The high temple of fish and rice. Great place to sit at the sushi bar and
ask for whatever is good - or snag view tables for solid regular offerings
of rolled salmon, tuna, prawns. Hollywood headliner appeal advertised by
autograph-papered walls. Prompt service. - VanMag March 1994
Zen 2232 Marine Dr., W. Van 925-0667 $$ Newish West Vancouver interpretation of sushi experience and ultra West
Coast pine decor a hit with L.L. Bean crowd. Intermittant table service
saved by stringent attention to details on plate; plump gyoza, dreamy roe
sushis, deluxe tempura and ohitashi (spinach with sesame seeds in sauce).
- VanMag March 1994
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=-= North American =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Avenue Grill 2114 W. 41st Ave 266-8183 $$ Peach and lime decor timewarps to previous decade in casual lunch spot for
the Kerrisdale set, fronting 41st Avenue bustle. Menu leans to salads
including house blend of greens with pecorino cheese and pecans, specials
largely seafood. Cannelloni heavily cheesed, packed with spinach.
Small-but-solid wine list. - VanMag March 1994
Bishop's 2138 W. 4th Ave 738-2025 $$$ Regulars treated like sibs; newcomers like guests. Blooms and serious mod
art (Shadbolt sometimes) for visuals. Impeccable, always simple, occasion-
ally witty. Boosterism for good local wines. Frequently picked as city's
best. Visiting Hollywooders eat here. - VanMag Mar 1994 ****
Cactus Club various n/a $ Piney folk art on Robson Street; student hangout on 10th Avenue; pleasant
service in both. Oversized rad menu. California surf culture yields
mediocre taco salad, flat, gray burgers, over-chilied fajitas. Order draft
microbeer and appetizer instead (real bacon-bit topped potato skins with
Cajun-peppery yogurt dip, for instance) - VanMag Apr 1993 *
Delilah's 1906 Haro St. 687-3424 $$ Mid-town Manhattan-ish, plush, dimly lit, great for long evenings of
conversation and martinis (27 varieties on the special menu), which made
this place famous. Menu is novel: check your preference from seasonally
changing list that later becomes your bill. Five courses only $27, three
for $23 a bargain. - VanMag March 1994
English Bay Cafe 1795 Beach Ave 669-2225 $$ Jaw-dropping view of English Bay at sunset ensures that visitors from out
of tour could be fed burgers and fries and still walk away determined to
relocate. Instead, upstairs expect roas chicekn stuffed with mushrooms and
blueberries, salmon with dill and basil or pastas spiked with chieken and
pancetta or spring lamb. Downstairs in the bistro: salmon and chips, Asian
chicek nsalad, vegetarian spirelli. Some quibble that West End
institution's food isn't what is once was, especially upstairs. Still
strikes us as the official restaurant of Lotusland. - VanMag Jan/Feb 1994
Herons 900 Canada Place Way 691-1818 $$$ High ceilings, huge windows, balconies, trailing plants don't overcome
institutional feel generated by decor's mutaed palette of plum, mint,
rose. Safe but not boring with saddle of rabbit with pistachio and mush-
room stuffing, buttered penne with ratatouille and lamb loin standing out.
Fresh sheet has designs on Italo-Asian cuisine. Seafood the better choice.
Above average wines. - VanMag March 1994
Horizons 100 Centennial Way, Burnaby 299-1155 $$ Views sweeping from mountains over city almost to international border make
a celebratory spot. Alder grill focused kitchen points at Cal/New Mex, ie,
quesadilla, baby back ribs with bourbon molasses glaze and jalapeno corn
bread. Also salmon with potato crust, steak and onion rings, bouillabaise
of West Coast seafoods. Strong show of local wines. - VanMag March 1994
Joe Fortes 777 Thurlow St. 669-1940 $$ Terrific swagger in mahogany-paneled room presenting good package for brisk
dining. Clever menu design brings seafood, mostly grilled and fried, to
the fore. Scallops with smoky roasted corn sauce, marlin-tuna-cod trio
with three salsas hint at southern theme. Oysters always good. Great list
of single malts. - VanMag March 1994
Meridien Hotel, Le 845 Burrard St. 682-5511 $$$ Cafe Fleuri's menu leans towards fresh and interestnig fish dishes; snapper
with a snappy citrus ginger vinaigrette or mahi mahi with sophisticated
black linguini and such. But eyes light up at the sight of the all-you-
can-eat Chocolate Bar (Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights). 20 feet of
white-draped table laden to groaning point with mostly chocolate desserts.
- VanMag Oct 1993
Paul Van der Ree's
Great Canadian Cafe 6094 Fraser St. 327-6713 Paul Van der Ree started out on Fraser Street in 1971 making submarine
sandwiches. Somehow he had the touch-they were the best subs imaginable.
Then Paul expanded to hamburgers, fish and chips and other kinds of
sandwiches and now he has a great big yellow awning out front and a new
name. Let's just hope none of it has gone to his head. Paul's is basically just a great hamburger join. I've had recommendations
for Paul's from faithfuls who will drive in from Port Moody and even
Chilliwack for a deluxe burger and then stick around for hours reading the
papers and magazines that Paul always leaves around. With the style that has made him an east-side legend, Paul Van der Ree
loads up each breakfast plate with so much food you can hardly pick it up.
Don't even think about less than three eggs and the same number of
sausages. Plan your day so that you can go home for a nap to sleep it off.
- Secrets
Raincity Grill 1193 Denman St. 665-7337 $$ Well-realized West Coast eatery with street and ocean views and dynamic
menu of food from Granville Island Market. Outstanding soups. Sandwiches
really schmeck with veal meatloaf with rosemary-Dijon mayo. $20 Sunday
surprise menu. Licensed. - VanMag March 1994
Raintree 1630 Alberni St. 688-5570 $$ Distinctly local place replacing its once comic zeal for regional food with
more mature enthusiasm. Clever desserts (selection of cookies and brittles
with dessert wine in one package). Boffo prix fixe express lunch brings
good food quick. Fine selection of West Coast wines. - VanMag March 1994
Seasons In The Park Queen Elizabeth Park 874-8008 $$$ Divine setting amid city views and stylish park gardens. Tomato-rosemary
bisque lacking zip, rescued by roasted eggplant tart topped with grilled
rare tuna for soft custardy, yummy beginning. Terrific desserts, esp-
ecially chocolate ganache. - VanMag March 1994
Star Anise 1485 W. 12th Ave 737-1485 $$$ No contrivances in outstanding addition to city dining showing rare vigor
in conception and even rarer restraint in execution. Crispy duck confit,
lamb chops with black peppercorn sauce and roasted garlic puree are para-
digmatic meat cookery. Peerless seafood (grilled salmon with celery root
remoulade, crab cakes) and the ultimate dessert (apple tart).
- VanMag March 1994
The Prow 100-999 Canada Place 684-1339 $$ Aptly named bare room like small hotel banquet hall. View of inner harbour
only decor, albeit gorgeous at night. Crab and avocado, omelet, mussels
equal mainstream lunch menu. Grilled fish (mahi mahi, salmon) prawns,
surf-n-turf, lamb with rosemary, mean same for dinner. Attentive service.
Licensed. - VanMag March 1994
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-= Indian =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Ashiana 5076 Victoria Dr. 321-5620 $ One of the city's best Indian restaurants, serving sizzling tandoor-cooked
meats, smoky naan breads, and luscious, northern curries. Murg korma is
worthy of any Bombay palace; shahi paneer delivers cheese that is not, as
in many restaurants, hard latex. But you eat on their terms; service is
slow, and servings, although low-priced, are small. A little room, with
loud decor. - VanMag Jan/Feb 1994
Natraj 5656 Fraser St. 327-6141 $ Quiet, longstanding family-run spot evokes unfinished basement rec room,
but offers some of the best Indian food in town. Mixed grill is carni-
vore's delight, still popping and spitting on iron griddle from oven
furnace. Samosas strong, as are myriad fluffy breads from tandoor clay
oven. - VanMag Jan/Feb 1994
Nirvana 2313 Main St 876-2911 $ Smells like...authentic, savory, and possibly spiritual Indian cuisine.
Find or lose yourself in the chicken curry or vegetable biryani.
- Let's Go 1993
Sitar 564 W. Broadway 879-4333 $ Standard Indian food in a standard Indian setting. You'll have a one-night
love affair with the tandoori chicken, mulligatawny, or full dinners. The
curry cuts like a knife. - Let's Go 1993
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-= Other Southeast Asian =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Arirang House 2211 Cambie St. 897-0990 $$ Korean U-cook with attention to spicing, freshness and presentation. Fugue
of familiar tastes played in robust fashion suited to cold homeland. Try
mountain vegetables; boiled squid with hot sauce; jumuluck garlic lover's
special. Arirang lunch box special is generously portioned. Service much
improved lately. - VanMag Apr 1993 **
Bayanihan Filipino Restaurant
Found in the midst of the second-hand shops north of Main and 25th, the
Bayanihan could be one of the best finds of a day out treasure hunting.
It's the only Filipino restaurant in town, and owners Flor and Goni
Manalastas are happy to explain the menu and introduce you to dishes like
Kare-kare Beef cooked in peanut butter with vegetables, or Escabecheng
Lapu-lapu sweet and sour deep-fried red snapper with vegetables. There are
often items that aren't on the menu, so be sure to ask. The Bayanihan is
docrless, so don't expect anything special except for some very good food.
The portions are huge, so take some friends along and share. - Secrets
Malaysia Restaurant 546 West Broadway 874-6161 Halfway between Chinese and Indian food, Malaysian cooking may just be the
next new trend in Vancouver if the instand word-of-mouth success of this
family-run place is any sign. Many of the dishes are cooked in coconut
milk, which gives them a soft and fragrant sensuality. Try the plump
Kelabu prawns in chili and coconut milk with the delicious long-grain
coconut milk rice. The hot pink or green jello-like desserts are also a
pleasant, not too sweet surprise. - Secrets
Phnom Penh 244 E. Georgia 682-1090 $ Unquestioanbly the best Vietnamese food in Vancouver. The truly adventur-
uous can sample the phnomenal Jellyfish salad. The diverse menu can accom-
modate less daring tastebuds as well. - Let's Go 1993
Sawasdee 2145 Granville St. 737-8222 $$ Somewhat dark and pedestrian surroundings host better-than-average Thai
fare in this, the lesser-known of a two-restaurant chain. Gai phad king
culls chicken, ginger, wild mushroom in savory decent helping. Service
attentive and friendly. Licensed. - VanMag Apr 1993 **
Singapore Restaurant 546 W. Broadway 874-6161 $ The mix of Malaysian, Chinese, and Indian cuisine corresponds to the tang-
led demography of Singapore. - Let's Go 1993
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-= Pizza =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Lombardo's 120-1641 Commercial Dr. 251-2240 $ Authentic Neapolitan pie from woodburning oven and chef who understands
pizza. Perfection in delicious, thin, blistered crust, lightly sauces,
lightly cheesed, so toppings stand out. Staff handle children with aplomb.
Characterless mall decor, but who cares? Licensed. - VanMag Dec 1992 ***
Pizza Rico's 766 Robson St. 669-2900 $ Margherita has nice salt-tang of feta but draped in too much mozza-a common
problem, evened out by superior crust. Ragin' Cajun is spicy chicek and
onion-hot, hot, hot. Big line-ups for lunchtime slice. Not licensed.
- VanMag Jan 1993 **
Slice of Gourmet 1152 Denman St. 689-1112 $
-By-the-slice pizzeria drawing folk for friendly service, views of Denman/
English Bay area actio and heavily loaded pie. Aloha good treatment of ham
and pineapple but heavy mozza tends to fall off. Creative wedges such as
creamed broccoli and cheese replaces tomato with cream sauce. Crusts airy
and thick, not doughy. Licensed. - VanMag Feb 1993 **
-The pick for tantalizing pizza with original toppings. Try a filing slice
of the peppery potato or BBQ salmon pizza. - Let's Go 1993
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-= Mexican =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Cafe Norte 3108 Edgemont Bld, N Van 255-1188 $$ Best replication of Mexico in town. Salsas a worthy variety of cool to in-
cendiary condiments. No prizes for deep-fried fritters. Sangria a welcome
irrigator. Familial Service. - VanMag Apr 1993 **
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-= Other nationality =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Afghan Horseman 445 W. Broadway 873-5923 It is two doors away from one of Vancouver's chic cheesecake places,
Nibbles, yet the in crowd never seems to notice the Afghan Horseman. Which
is too bad for them because 'The Horseman' is small, quiet and very
romantic. On the walls are hand-knotted rugs and Afghan landscapes. If you
want to do it authentically try the Afghan Room where you eat sitting on
the floor (with lots of cushions). Afghan food is somewhere between Greek
and Indian-pleasantly different, and the portions are huge. This restaurant is the centre for local relief and assistance programs for
Afghanis; the owner will gladly fill you in on his homeland. - Secrets
Nuff-Nice-Ness 1861 Commercial Dr 255-4211 $ Hudson's hoem for Jamaican cuisine, located on a hip strip. - Let's Go 1993
Nyala 2930 W. 4th Ave 731-7899 $ Tasteful, festive encirons can't upstage the authentic Ethiopian fare.
- Let's Go 1993
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=-= Other Specialty =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Naam 2724 W. 4th Ave 738-7151 $
-The original natural food restaurant in Vancouver has moved across the
street and spiffed itself up to the new 4th Avenue standards of chic, but
it's still the place where the health-conscious love to hang out. They go
for the great salad and tostada bars and love to while away the afternoon
on the garden patio, remembering when. - Secrets
-Vancouver's oldest natural-food restaurant. With a fireplace and patio,
the Naam is truely a delight. Live music nightly from 7-10pm.
- Let's Go 1993
Tomato Fresh Food Cafe 3305 Cambie 874-6020 $ Just about every dish here includes some of that red roud thing that hovers
between the fruit and vegetable categories. Great selection of frui and
vegetable drinks. - Let's Go 1993
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=-= Seafood =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= A Kettle Of Fish 900 Pacific Ave 682-6853 $$ World's leafiest room? Straightforward formula has diner pick fish, pick
the way to cook it. Steamed fish (especially clams, mussels) generally
better than fried/grilled/baked efforts. Adjunct bistro Steamers and Stews
downstairs is cozier. Service sometimes distracted. - VanMag March 1994
Bud's Halibut And Chips 1007 Denman St. 683-0661 $
-Decor sliding towards dingy as you want it in an old-fashioned English
joint such as this. Here the room is a bit tatty but the halibut is top-
notch. Each piece dressed in slightly nutty-tasting amber-brown crust that
is neither too thin nor too thick. They oysters, also battered and deep-
fried, are good too. Food perfectly matched by nut-brown ale, which it so
happens they have on tap. - VanMag March 1994
-Well known to West Enders, Bud's is crowded on week-ends but line up if
necessary for great fish and big fat chips. Truly five stars - Secrets
Salmon House On The Hill 2229 Folkstone Wy, WVan 926-3212 $$$ Interior redo brings light, breathing space; ponderous wicker lamps now mod
halogens; more tasteful approach to West Coast theme. Generously portioned
salmon, grilled oysters, and well-constructed wine list still star with
occasional hits from a fresh sheet. Veggies sometimes a thorn in their
side. - VanMag March 1994
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=British Columbia, Canada