The Picayune Creole Cook Book

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Schlesinger Library Radcliffe College Culinary Collection Gift of Florence W. Patrick

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SROPRERTY OF /YRS.S AL WATKINS 123 LERCH LIVE. LoGcor7e.NV. 7 FLORENCE WwW), PATRICK JO FAIRE? 10"

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The Picayune Creole Cook Book Sixth Edition To assist the good housewives of the present day and to preserve to future generations the many excellent and matchless recipes of the New Orleans cuisine by gathering up from the old Creole cooks and the old housekeepers the best of Creole cookery, with all its delightful combinations and possibilities, is the object of this book.

Copyright 1901, 1906, 1910, 1916 and 1922 by THE TIMES-PICAYUNE PUBLISHING COMPANY NEW ORLEANS, LA.

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Published by Tae Tiwes-Picarune Pupiisnina Company Publishers of Tue Times-Picarunz South's Greatest Newspaper New Orleans, La.

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The Picayune Creole Cook Book INTRODUCTION HE Picayune Creole Cook Book, of which this (the sixth) is a re I vised and very carefully prepared edition, is more than a cook book. It is, in fact the record of a school of cookery, the most savory and yet the most economical ever devised. In making that dual claim we are not speaking idly and boastingly, but have valid arguments to support both contentions.

It long has been recognized throughout the world that the cuisine of France, under the later Louis and the Empire, reached a perfection of refinement due not alone to a French génius for that art, but because gastronomy was so highly regarded there that it drew the best from all parts of the world. Thus we see some of the most typically French “plats” to have had their origin in Poland, Italy, Spain and Russia, though undoubtedly refined and improved from passing through the hands of the French masters. It was this French school of culinary art that supplied the foundation, the general basis for the Creole cuisine.

It must be remembered that many of the French settlers in La Louisiane were the aristocratic “émigrés,” who brought with them the highest refinement of gastronomic culture, while at the same time there came many peasants with their simple though delicious “pot au feu” and “grillades.” But, in the evolution of a Creole cuisine, to this double element of French cookery there came an infiltration of Spanish “arte de componer las viandas” because of the considerable element of Iberian population that settled in Louisiana during the Spanish rule. This added a somewhat broader, stronger seasoning, and a further admixture came from our proximity to the pepper-loving tropics. Thus we find our Creole cookery departing somewhat from its French origins; but there were other and still more important changes that could not fail to come because of our isolation and because of the difference in the staple culinary materials here and in Europe.

One of the conspicuous differences of this kind was due to our waters that teemed with fish, scale-fish and shell fish, and many varieties of marine food that were either unobtainable in France or were there so rare as to have become no staple item of the menu. In the wild New World sea food was easiest and safest to catch. It might even be captured by the women folks while the men were on sterner business, and with such new and delicious materials to experiment with, the inventiveness of the pioneers went to work and devised new and delicious combinations of shrimps, crabs and crawfish, as well as of the almost limitless varieties of the finny tribes. There were the reliable “grognards”—we call them croakers. Both names are due to the rebellious utterances of the fish when hooked and landed. There were the trouts, white and speckled, so plentiful in Louisiana and Mississippi waters; the delicious sheepsbead, with stripes of the broiler ready upon it as it came

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from the water; the handsome red fish, marked for ready identification by a single black dot beside its tail; and then such aristocrats as the Spanish mackerel—a nobleman indeed beside his plebeian relative, the mackerel of the Atlantic—and, supreme among fish, the delicious pompano. With those and an infinity of oysters at command, it was not to be wondered at that the native chefs wrought marvels of tastiness that have been the envy of many a European “cordon bleu.”

Many of the cooks, indeed the vast majority of them in Louisiana, were negresses who had a share in the development of the Creole cookery. It seems as though the colored folk had brought with them from the wilds of Africa certain knowledge, or instincts, regarding rare flavoring herbs. It was the negroes that went into the woods and brought forth the leaves and roots that, wisely prepared, added new half-tastes and quarter-tastes that, like the demi-teintes of the painter, add subtle attractiveness to the ensemble. Lastly, there were the Indians to whom at least one item of Creole cookery, still today fairly indispensable, is due—namely, the “gombo filé.” Even to the present day that condiment, so unlike all others, ig gathered and sold by the remains of the once powerful Choctaws.

With all these new elements added, we find ourselves far away from the original French cuisine, but that school had the force to enclose the New World additions without losing any of its own charms when it became a question of cooking the standard foods, the roasts and sauces, the fowl or the venison, the vegetable or the delicious pastry that has ever been France’s by some right of race.

But we mentioned both succulence and economy. The former we have explained, but not yet the latter. That feature became a part of Creole cooking from pure necessity. The waters and the woods, the barnyards and the gardens, be they never so full of food elements, in a land thousands of miles from sources of certain essential supplies, the cook had to be watchful as well as lavish. Communication even between neighbors was slow and diffiicult— sometimes even dangerous—so that the cooks and housekeepers early learned to avoid all waste in their art. Therefore there will be found, from a study of this cook book, that means are offered to utilize much that in other and more thoughtless styles of cooking is waste. There were many mouths to feed on the plantations of olden days and, after long spells of bad weather, many & mouth would have gone hungry but for the care with which every morsel was put to a good purpose. The pocketbook in such matters is today a good test, and to have had that treasure, a thoroughly competent Creole cook of the old school, is to have realized the cheapness with which she could supply meals fit for Lucullus.

Were we to select one phrase with which to characterize Creole cooking a8 inherited from the French chefs it would be that: “Creoles understand how to make tough meat tender.” This they accomplished by the process called braising, in which there has been perpetuated the surname of a young Gascon cook of Louis XIV’s time, who had the distinction of winning a silver gridiron in a cooking contest instituted by the “Roi Soleille” himself. Braising is a process between baking and frying, the covered saucepan preventing the escape of the strength and flavor of the meat. So simple and yet so important is this trick of the cuisine that without it perhaps French and Creole cookery would not have reached their present height.

But let us quote from the classics of cooking a few incidents that, though they took place in Europe, have affected the cookery of Louisiana, where all the items named are in every day use. Take, for example, the baked fish as provided on many a Friday in many a Louisiana family. The fish is larded with strips of bacon. “Lard,” by the way, is the French term for bacon, so that one must not be deceived by a similarity in sound into imagining that lard, as Americans know it, is used. The fish is stuffed with a forcemeat of shrimps, oysters and, if possible, with mushrooms. Now this dish, so familiar to all in Louisiana, originated in France to celebrate a regal occasion—that on which

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Marie de Medicis was married to the Dauphin, son of Francis the First. The ceremony took place at the Palais de Chambord, that only lately has been taken over as a permanent architectural preserve of the French nation. It was an Italian cook who prepared the meal, and being dissatisfied with the dryness of the fish to be prepared for the bridal party, he had the inspiration of the larding and stuffing, and thereby struck a culinary note that was heard round the world.

The brioche, though very familiar in France, is little known in America outside of New Orleans, where it has long been a favorite of Creole cookery. It was really “Brioche,” and not “cake,” as the familiar story has it, that Marie Antoinette suggested as alternative to the poor when she was told they had no bread.

+ Another overseas delicacy that has become fixed in Creole cookery is the “baba”—once the “baba au rhum” of fragrant memory. The baba is round and taller than it is wide, made of a porous cake that becomes readily saturated with wine or, as now made, with a sweetish liquor. This dish was not originally French at all, but Polish, and was so loved by King Stanislas of the old Kingdom of Poland, that when he paid a visit to France he brought with him a supply of “babkas,” that being its Polish name, meaning, we are told, “a little old woman wrapped in a shawl.” This gives an idea of the correct shape of the baba, but there has been a tendency in Louisiana to deviate from that form, to the regret of all who find charm in the strict observance of old customs.

Southern France has given to Creole cuisine the bouille-A-baisse, or, as it is commonly but not correctly written bouillabaisse, which is a fish stew of an especial flavor, quite different from the more familiar court bouillon, which features the delicious “& la Créole” sauce that has delighted so many visitors to New Orleans.

In so simple a matter as bread, Creole cooking has strongly marked characteristics, and not to have eaten the Creole “cap loaf” is to have missed one of the world’s delights. This is a large round and solid loaf with a knot or twist at the top, that is easily separated from the rest of the loaf, and is the tidbit, as it were, of the baking—usually the perquisite of the most selfish or most humored member of the household. There are other Creole breads, but the characteristic of all is crustiness. It is highly nutritious and easily digestible, contains an abundance of dextrin and not a little maltose, therefore requiring thorough mastication.

An elderly Creole sybarite once said wisely: “Epicures realize that we have nowadays no roasts, only baked meats.” This gives a flash of understanding of changed conditions. In former days a turkey hung, turning slowly, over a pan which caught the drippings. Ash-wood coals were de rigueur for the finest flavor. On long needles, near by, were cooking snipe or other small game birds and the cook basted all constantly. Oh, in those old days, living— by which we mean eating—in New Orleans was beyond compare, and we might digress to tell of the delights of the vintages brought in casks from France and Spain to the port of New Orleans. But why speak of such impossibilities? Nevertheless, even so noted an epicure as William Makepeace Thackeray, at the time of his memorable visit to the Crescent City, was so delighted with our wines that he had a shipment sent back across the ocean to his English home.

Much of the cookery we have described was invented at New Orleans, the metropolis of the Louisiana colony; but also a large part, as we have suggested, was the product of the cooks on the vast plantations that were almost like self-governing principalities scattered along the lakes, rivers and bayous of fair “Louisiane.” Therefore there is a real historic interest in the facts concerning the cooking methods of those days and places. In New Orleans the historic Cabildo, the place in which the ceremonies of the transfer of the French colony to the young United States were held, has been converted into an historical museum, and there, among other curiosities, are records of that

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very thing—the plantation kitchen of Creole days. The objects collected have not yet been given the setting they deserve, but in time that too will come and. the visitor will be able to study in complete form the plant from which was developed the Creole cookery as, explained in the present volume. Among other treasures there, is a great copper preserving kettle, hand-made, with strength in handle and beauty in form and color. After the family that had used this utensil for generations had left the plantation and had come to New Orleans to live, “Aunt Chloe,” who came regularly from the old home to visit the newest generation of children, generally put in her spare time polish- ing the big kettle till, when it finally went into the hands of the state, it seemed to typify the pride of the old methods in the perfection of its tools. The plantation kitchen from which that great kettle came may serve as an example of the rest. It has been described as follows: “The kitchen of the plantation was a large square room and adjoining it was a smaller room where the fancy cooking was done. Matilda, the cook of cooks, sat on her three-legged stool as she watched the pots cooking in the great fireplace. She had been bought at the age of seventeen and placed with a Creole family in New Orleans to learn the fine art of cookery, and first of all to make French bread. Bread and the flaky beaten biscuit were made upon a huge log brought in from the forest and polished smoothly at the top. The biscuits were beaten with a stick with prongs like three fingers. Bread was often cooked in a Dutch oven which stood on the hearth. It was a large round pot with legs, and with a cover that had an upright rim to hold the coals that were kept ever fresh upon it’ when there was long baking to be done, as, for instance, a pound cake—a pound cake that was one in fact as well as in name. “Rice was cooked in a small round-bottomed pot hanging from a crane. When turned out the cereal was browned on the bottom and held its shape. Wafers were cooked in long iron-handled irons and the same was true of the waffles. Aunt Matilda broiled on a large broiler that had four feet and a long handle. There were grooves in it that held the gravy. This broiler stood directly over the coals.

“On the swinging crane in the fireplace pots were hung and other pots stood on independent legs and had covers. Some fireplaces had a straight bar in place of the swinging crane. A ‘rabbit’ was a long, narrow piece of metal used for roasting. A home-made broom of latanier (palmetto) stood in the corner by the fireplace.

“Either a brick path or a great tree hewn on the four sides led from the kitchen to the house. Along this the little negroes fled with the covered dishes, for everything must be served piping hot. The dining-room boy would receive the platters and place them on the table.”

The Volstead Act has taken from the cuisine some of its most delightful flavorings. French, (and thence its descendant Creole) cookery were both lavish and artistic in the employment of sherries, Champagnes and various liqueurs, and have suffered from a law that in dealing with a great evil has ruthlegsly destroyed many minor blessings. In previous editions of the Picayune Creole Cook Book directions for the use of wines and liquors were included as a matter of course in all recipes demanding such flavorings. As it has now become unlawful to acquire such ingredients, reference to them has been eliminated. Since necessity is the mother of invention, very serious efforts are being made to find substitutes that will add the desirable flavors of the fruit and berry brandies, of the much used sherry wine, etc., without violating the anti-alcoholic enactment. To what extent those substitutions will serve their purpose it is perhaps too soon to judge, but we wish only to note here that such flavorings are on the market, wearing many of the famous old names, formerly the dependence of the chef in producing his gastronomic wonders. We must leave it to the judgment of the users of the cook book to decide whether they consider those extracts worthy to replace the wines and liquors of other days. But we could lose ourselves in details of the cooking and serving of meals in those times, now far in the past. Today cooking has taken its place as a

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science to be taught in dignified colleges with much talk of calories and proteids and other scientific jargon; but there is missed from the new cookery a@ something, a je ne sais quoi, that was brought together by the old Creole cooks. That something, that essence of a wonderful school is what will be found recorded in this present volume of recipes that have stood the test of time and changing fancy, dishes as delicious and intriguing today as they were in the days when the Vieux Carré of New Orleans was indeed a carré, with forts at the corners, and when strange old ‘“‘bateaux” plied the Louisiana bayous and streams. Here’s to our Creole cookery. May she never lose her magic! '

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Chapter Page Introduction. 2 2 1 we ee iii Si tions to Housekeepers... 2... 1. ee ix I—Creole Coffee. 2 6. ee 1 I—Soups.... 0.0... 000 0 cee eee 3 IlI—Meat Soups.... 2... 2... 2. ee 6 IV.—Fish Soups..... 2.... 2. 2. ee ll V.—Lenten Sou) ee 15 VI.—The Bouili © 2. 21 VIl.—Creole Gumbo......... 2.....02. 002000000048 25 VII.—Fish 2. 2 29 IX.—Shell Fish. 2 2. 2 ee 47 X.—Shell Fish (Continued)....... oe &5 XI.—Salt and Canned Fish.. 2... 2. 2... ee ee ee - 62 XII.—Meats—Beef..........-..-2.02..-2.2.2.22 2006 €6 XIII.—Veal—Sweetbreads... 2... 2... 2 ee ee 75 XIV.—Mutton. 2... 88 XV—Pork 2. 0. 96 XVI-—Foultry Ce 108 ——Pigeoss 2. 11 XVIII—Game..... 2... 2. ee ee 117 XIX—Birds.. 2... ee ee 127 XX.—Stuffing and Dressing for Poultry, Game and Fish, Ete......... 138 XXI.—Sauces for Fish, Meats, Poultry,Game, Ete..........2.2.. 141 XXII.—Salads 152 XXIIT—Eges 2 158 XXIV.—Louisiana Rice. 2 2 2 ee 162 XXV.—Cereals. 2 2 2 ee 170 XXVI.—Macaroni.........----2-0000.4 rrr 175 XXVII—Cheese. 2 2 2 2 178 XXVIII.—Canapes.......... Be ee 180 XXIX.—Vegetables. 2 0 184 XXX.—Relishes.. 225 XXXI.—Sweet Entremets.. 2..........2.202.20.0.2-2000.4 229 XXXII.—Desserts 2. ee 237 XXXI.—Pastry and Pies... 2. ee 242 XXXIV.—Pudding.. 0 251 XXXV.—Custards, Creams and Other Desserts.........-.-2.2.2.. 258 XXXVI.—Pudding Sauces... 2 2 2. 2 2 ee 268 XXXVII—Cakes. 2 2 2 2 270 XXXVIII—Layer Cakes... 2 2 2 ee 286 XXXIX.—Dessert Cakes 2 2 2) 1 ee 289 XL.—Icings for Cakes. 2 2 2 1 1 299 XLI.—Ice Creams, Biscuits, Sherbets.... 2.0 7. 7. ee ee eee 301 XLIT.—Fruit Syrups. 2. 2 2 2 310 XLI[I.—Iced Fruit Drinks 2.2.......-...0..-0 0000004 314 XLIV.—Jellies, Marmalades, Preserves... 1... 7. ee eee eee 319 XLV.—Creole Candies. 2 2. 2 0 326 XLVI.—Canning or Pickling.... 2... 2.2. ee ee eee eee 336 XLVII.—Creole Breads. 2. 2 2 1 342 XLVIII.—Suitable Combinations for Serving...........--..5- 361 XLIX.—Varieties of Seasonable Foods........... be ee eee 364

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os SUGGESTIONS = TO HOUSEKEEPERS The following suggestions will be found of interest to all housekeepers, especially to the young and inexperienced. They have been carefully prepared, with especial reference to the needs of the household, and bear in every respect upon the recipes given in The Times-Picayune’s Creole Cook Book:

Comparative Table of Weights and Measures Used in The TimesPicayune Creole Cook ‘ Book.

Every housekeeper should have for her own convenience and for the correct measurement of ingredients used in making any dish, where exact -measurements are absolutely necessary to success, a pair of scales, and a set of tin or glass measures with small lips or spouts; these measures should range from half a gill to one gallon. But as so few housekeepers think of the necessity of having such measures until they set to making preparations where measurements must be exact, the following carefully Prepared table may be referred to with absolute reliance upon the comparative quantities given: Twenty-five drops of thin equal half a teaspoonful. Four teaspoonfuls of solid or liquid equal one tablespoonful of solid or liquid.

Four’ tablespoonfuls equal wine-glassful or one-half gill. One wineglassful equals half a gill or one-quarter of a cup.

Two wineglassfuls equal one gill or half a cup.

Two gills equal one teacupful, or sixteen tablespoonfuls.

One teacupful or one kitchen cupful equals half a pint.

Two teacupfuls or two kitchen cupfuls equal one pint.

Two pints equal one quart. Nquid one Four quarts equal one gallon. One tablespoonful of liquid equals half an ounce.

Two tablespoonfuls equal one ounce. One level tablespoonful of flour equals half an ounce.

Two level tablespoonfuls solid equal one ounce liquid.

Sixteen ounces equal one pound. One pound of solid is equal to one pint of liquid.

One quart of unsifted flour equals one pound.

Four teacupfuls of sifted flour equal one pound.

Three cups of cornmeal equal one pound.

One and one-half pints of cornmeal equal one pound.

One pint or two cups of granulated sugar equal one pound, One pint or two cups of brown sugar equal one pound.

Two and one-half cupfuls of white pulverized sugar equal one pound. One well-rounded tablespoonful of butter equals one ounce.

One tablespoonful of salt equals one ounce.

One teacupful of cold, hard butter, pressed down, equals half a pound. Two cups of cold butter, pressed down, equal one pound.

One pint of finely chopped meat, solidly packed, equals one pound. An ordinary-sized tumblerful is equal to half a pint, or one teacupful.

Ten eggs equal one pound. A dash of pepper is equal to oneeighth of a teaspoonful.

Observe Rules in Mixing Ingredients In every recipe given in this book follow the order given for the mixing of ingredients. This mixing has been systematically arranged, and any deViation will fail of success. Whether mixing the ingredients in a “Roux,”

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Preparatory to adding the ingredient which constitutes the dish proper, or whether making desserts, cakes, etc., add every ingredient, even though it be only a dash of pepper or a flavoring extract, in the order and proportion given. On the strict observance of these rules followed by Creole culsinieres, depends the success of Creole Cookery.

One may use butter substitute for butter. Bacon fat is excellent for frying vegetables and may be used in many ways ag a butter substitute. Fewer eggs may be used in cake Grape juice may be used in place of wine. It is well to add itt.when cooking turtle especially. Observe the directions given in regard to cutting, chopping, slicing and mincing, whether applied to vegetables, meats or seasonings. When the Cook Book says to chop an ingredient, it means to chop in the strict sense of the word. When it directs that vegetables, etc., shall be cut, it means to cut, in the proper acceptation of that term in cookery. When it says to slice, it means that the ingredient shall be sliced, and not cut or chopped; and so when the term “mince” is used, it means that the ingredient shall be minced or hashed as fine as possible. Use of Broth, Bouillon or Consommé in Cooking.

While the infusion of Broth, Boulllon or Consommé, or oyster water in leu of plain water, adds, where indicated, a delightful flavor to the dish, the use of any of these is not imperative in making the dish, and water, in the proportion given for Broth or Consommé, may always be used instead, except in special recipes. For instance, if you wish to have a real “Jambalaya a la Créole,” the use of Broth or Consommé instead of water, where the Jambalaya is made of meats, and the use of oyster water where it is made of oysters, will imPart a flavor that is far superior to a dish prepared with water. Nevertheless, in hundreds of households water is used almost exclusively, even in making a Jambalaya, because it is not every family that chooses to make a pot of Broth or Consommé just for the purpose of using it as an ingredient for a dish.

Never be afraid, therefore, to undertake a dish because it calls for Bouillon or Consommé. Just proceed with the cooking, using water instead, and if your seasoning is good, and other ann: Ai implicity followed in the preparation and cooking, the absence of Consommé wil! scarcely be detected.:

French Terms Used in Cooking and Serving Dishes.

In preparing the Creole Cook Book The Times-Picayune has sought to overcome the great difficulty that the majority of people outside of Louisiana experience in understanding French terms, as applied to various dishes and orders of service. Discussions have been going on in all parts of the country as to the desirability of abolishing French terms on bills of fare, one newspaper declaring: ‘What is the use of calling a dish ‘Canard Canvasback,’ when there is no French mame for the famous Canvasback Duck?” All this is very amusing in Louisiana, where the Canvasback Duck has been always known as the “Canard de Cheval.” And so with other dishes. The use of French, however, continues in bills of fare prepared for elaborate banquets, ete., critics to the contrary notwithstanding, because the French order of service is the one accepted the world over, in state and official gatherings. An air of distinction is conferred upon even a homely dish by calling it by its French name, and criticisms against the practice will not easily do away with the usage. This cook book has sought to overcome the difficulty experienced by those who are not acquainted with the French language and French terms in cooking by giving with each recipe not only the correct English name of the dish, but the French one also. It further assists housekeepers and caterers generally by giving the definitions of a few additional French terms used in cooking and serving dishes:

Assaisonnement— A Seasoning; a salad dressing.

Agsaisonnement Aromatique— An aromatic seasoning, such as parsley, chervil, etc.

Aspic—This is a meat jelly or savory for cold dishes. Boned Turkey, Galantine, Calf’s Foot Jelly, Cold Tongue, Cold Daube, are all termed “En Aspic.”

Au Gratin—All baked or roasted dishes that are prepared with crumbs grated and sprinkled over are called “Au Gratin.”

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Bouchées—A Bouchée indicates a mouthful, and is from the French “Bouche,” the mouth. It is applied in cooking to all very thin, small patties or cakes, as ““Bouchées d’Hultres,” “Bouchées & la Reine,” etc. Bonne Bouche—A good mouthful. Baba—A peculiar sweet cake, made of yeast, flour, milk and eggs. Bisque—A soup made of shellfish. It is red in color, such as ‘Crawfish Bisque,” the shells of which are boiled, mashed, pounded, strained and added to the soup stock. A “Lobster Bisque” may be prepared after the same manner as the “Crawfish Bisque” in latitudes where lobsters may be obtained fresh. The Bisque then becomes “Bisque de Homard.” Bisque d’Ecrevisse—A Crawfish Bisque or soup.

Blanchir—To blanch. To blanch an article set it on the fire till it boils, and then plunge in cold water. This rule applies to vegetables, poultry, nuts, almonds, etc. The skin is thus removed and the article is blanched. Blanching also means simply to scald, as blanching oysters.

Bouillon—A bouillon is a _ clear soup, much stronger than broth, and yet not quite so strong as Consommé. Boudins—A form of sausage. Boulettes—A small ball of meat, fish, etc., hashed and formed in balls and fried.

Bouillabaisse— A famous FrenchCreole way of cooking fish, the French using the Sturgeon and Perch, the Creoles the Redfish and Red Snapper. The fish is cooked to the point where it begins to boil; then you must stop on the instant. Hence the word “Bouillabaisse,” from “Bouillir,” to boil, and ‘Baisse,” to stop. (See recipe for Bouillabaisse.) Braisé — Smothered. All meats, fish, vegetables, etc., cooked in a closely covered stewpan, so as to retain not only their own flavor, but those of all other ingredients entering into the dish, are termed “Braisé” or “a la Braise.”

Brioche—This is a delightful Creole breakfast cake, made of slightly sweetened egg and milk, batter and yeast, set to rise over night, and formed into a “Brioche,” or cake, with a central cake for a head, and the other cakes arranged around to the number of six or eight, and sprinkled with sugar.

Canapés—On toast. Anything served on toast is called “sur Canapés.” Cannelle—Cinnamon.

Caneton (masculine); Canette (feminine) Duckling.

Caneton—Meat stuffed and folded up; forcemeat balls.

Charcuterie—The term for all sausages.

Civet—A stew made of hare and so called because of the flavor of chives (cives) that enters into its composition.

Consommé—A clear soup that has been boiled down to almost a jelly broth, and which is very rich. Consommé Doré—A gilded or golden yellow consomme.

A la Créme—With Cream, as “Sauce a la Créme,” etc.

Créme & la Glace—Ice Cream. A la Crapaudine—Crapaudine means like toadstool, or stone, as “Pigeons & la Crapaudine,’ which means pigeons cooked and dressed to resemble ttle toadstools or frogs on a stone. (See recipe Pigeons & la Crapaudine.) Courtbouillon—A fish stew, generally made of Redfish.

Courtbouillon & la Créole—A stew of Redfish.

Croftons—Crusts of bread cut like dice or in any fancy shape, and toasted or fried in butter.

Croustades—Pieces of bread larger than Crofitons toasted or fried in butter or lard, and used to serve minces or meats upon.

Dindonneau—A turkey chick, Dariole—A custard pie.

Diable—The devil.

A la Diable—According to the devil. Generally applied to hot, flery preparations of meats, sauces, etc. Entrée—A side dish, served between the courses at dinner.

Entremet—A small by-dish. Entremets are sweet or otherwise. Entremet Sucré—A sweet by-dish. Sweet entremets are generally served towards the close of the meal, just before the roasts.

Flan—A custard.

Fondue—Melted. Generally applied to a light preparation of melted cheese, such as “Welsh Rarebit.” Fondant—Sugar boiled and beaten to a cream paste.

Granits—Aromatized fruit waters. Grillé—Broiled.

Hors d’Oeuvre—A by-dish; an outwork, a digression. Under this term are classed all foods that are regarded simply as accessories to a meal, and designed to excite the appetite, but not to satisfy. It is undoubtedly beCause they are placed on the table outside or apart from other dishes that they have been so called.

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A la Jardinigre—Cooked with many chopped vegetables.

Matelots—A rich fish stew, with wine.

Mayonnaise—A rich salad dressing, made with eggs, oil, vinegar, etc., and served with chicken, shrimp or fish salad generally.

Méringue—The whites of eggs beaten to a stiff froth with sugar. Méringuées—Covered with a Méringue.

Marinade—A rich liquor of spices, vinegar or wine, etc., in which beef or fish are steeped for several hours befare cooking.

A la Mode—After the latest fashion. Mironton—Cold boiled meat; hashed and warmed over, and served in various ways.

Neige—Snow.

A la Neige—Snowy; like snow. Pate—A batter; a pie dough. Patés—Small pies or patties of oysters, meats, fruits, etc. made Panaché—Mottled, variegated. As “Créme Panachée,” or ‘Variegated Ice Poulet—A chicken.

A la Poulette—As a chicken; for instance, a “Sauce & la Poulette,” always has eggs added, the eggs giving the distinctive name “A la Poulette.” Praline—A distinctive Creole sugar cake made of cocoanut and sugar or pecans and sugar. (See recipes “Praline.””) Pralinée—Sugared, or sugar-coated. Piment—Pepper.

Pimenté—Peppered.

Piquante—A sauce of piquant flavor, vinegar or acid predominating, and highly seasoned with pepper. A la Plaque—A “Plaque” is a flat baking pan or griddle. Articles baked in it are called “a la Plaque,” as Pan Bread, or “Pain a la Plaque.” Quenelles—Meat, liver, fish or potatoes chopped and highly seasoned and rolled into balls or boulettes and boiled and served as a garnish. We have also ‘Potato Quenelles.” Ragott—A rich stew of meat or poultry, generally made with vegetables, such as mushrooms, peas, truffles, potatoes, etc. Remoulade—A dressing for salads, made somewhat like Mayonnaise, but differing in this, that the eggs are all hard-boiled and rubbed in a mortar with mustard, vingar, minced garlic, etc, Relevés—A side dish; a term applied when it is desired to serve another dish beside an entrée. Rissoles — Minced meat or fish, rolled in thin pastry and fried. Roux—A mixture of flour and butter, or flour and lard, used as a foundation for sauces or as a foundation for stews, salmis, etc. * ROti—A roast.

Tarte—A pie.

Tartelette—A tartlet.

Sauter—To smother and toss meats, fowl, vegetables, etc., over the fire in butter or fat.

Savarin—A wine cake.

Salmi—<A rich stew of venison, duck or other game, cut up and dressed generally with wine.

Salmigondis — A hotch-potch of Saucissons de Lyons—Bologna Sausage.

Salade d’ Anchois—Anchovy Salad. Soufflé—An omelet, pudding or custard, thoroughly beaten and whipped until it becomes so light that when cooked it must be eaten immediately, else it will fall.

Talmouse—A cheese cake.

Tartine d'Anchois—Anchovy Tartines; circles of brown bread, spread with Anchovy Paste, yolks and whites of hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine, also chopped pickles, all arranged in alternate rows.

Timbale—A pie cooked in a mold. In ‘Macaroni en Timbale” the macaroni is cooked in the cheese head, Vinaigrette—A sauce or salad dressing, made of salt and pepper, with vinegar predominating.

Vol-au-Vent—A chicken, meat, fish or game pie, baked in a light Puff Paste, and served as an entrée. green

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The Picayune Creole Cook Book CHAPTER I Café a la Oréole Travelers the world over unite in praise of Creole Coffee, or “Café a la Créole,” as they are fond of calling it. The Creole cuisiniéres succeeded far beyond even the famous chefs of France in discovering the secret of good coffee making, and they have never yielded the palm of victory. There is no place in the world in which the use of coffee is more general than in the old Creole city of New Orleans, where the cup of “Café Noir,” or “Café au Lait,” at morning, at noon and at night, has become a necessary and delightful part of the life of the people, and the wonder and the joy of visitors.

The morning cup of Café Noir is an integral part of the life of a Creole househvld. The older residents contend that, after a hearty meal, a cup of “Café Noir,” or black coffee, will relieve the sense of oppression so apt to be experienced, and will enable the stomach to perform its functions with greater facility.

How important, then, is the art of making good coffee, entering, as it does, so largely into the daily life of the American people. There is no reason why the secret should be confined to any section or city but, with a little care and attention, every household in the land may enjoy its morning or after-dinner cup of coffee with as much real pleasure as the Creoles of New Orleans, and the thousands of visitors who yearly migrate to this old Franco-Spanish city.

Best Ingredients and Proper Making One of the first essentials is to “Parch the coffee grains just before making the coffee,” because coffee that has been long parched and left standing loses its flavor and strength. The coffee grains should “‘be roasted to a rich brown,” and never allowed to scorch or burn, otherwise the flavor of the coffee is at once affected or destroyed. Bear this in mind, that the GOOD CREOLE COOK NEVER BOILS COFFEE, but insists on dripping it, in a covered strainer, slowly —DRIP, DRIP, DRIP—till all the flavor is extracted.

To reach this desired end, immediately after the coffee has been roasted and allowed to cool in a covered dish, so that none of the flavor will escape, the coffee is ground—neither too fine, for that will make the coffee dreggy; nor too coarse, for that prevents the escape of the full strength of the coffee juice—but just moderately, which will allow the hot water not to run rapidly through, but rather to percolate slowly through the grounds, extracting every bit of the strength and aroma, and falling slowly with a “drip! drip!” into the coffee pot. To make good coffee the water must be “freshly boiled,” and must never

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SS be poured upon the grounds until it has reached the boiling point, otherwise the flavor is destroyed and subsequent pourings of boiling water can never quite succeed in extracting the strength and aroma which distinguish the good cup of coffee. It is of the greatest importance that “the coffee pot be kept perfectly clean,” and the good cook will bear in mind that absolute cleanliness is as necessary for the “interior” of the coffee pot as for the shining “‘exterior.” This fact is one too commonly overlooked, and yet the coffee pot requires more than ordinary care, for the reason that the chemical action of the coffee upon the tin or agate tends to create a substance which collects and clings to every crevice and seam, and, naturally, in the course of time, affects the flavor of the coffee most peculiarly and unpleasantly. Very often the fact that the coffee tastes bitter or muddy arises from this neglect. The inside of the coffee pot should, therefore, be washed as carefully every day as the outside.

Having observed these conditions, proceed to make the coffee according to the following unfailing Creole Rule Have the water heated to a good boil. Set the coffee pot in front of the stove; never on top, as the coffee will boil, and then the taste is destroyed. Allow one cup, or the ordinary mill, of coffee to make four good cups of the liquid, ground and put in the strainer, being careful to keep both the strainer and the spout of the coffee pot covered to prevent the flavor from escaping. Pour, first, about two tablespoonfuls of the boiling water on the coffee grounds, or, according to the quantity of coffee used, just sufficlient to settle the grounds. ‘Wait about five minutes; then pour a little more water, and allow it to drip slowly through, but never pour water the second time until the grounds have ceased to puff or bubble, as this is an indication that the grounds have settled. Keep pouring slowly, at intervals, a little boiling water at a time, until the delightful aroma of the coffee begins to escape from the closed spout of the coffee pot. If the coffee dyes the pot it is a little too strong, but do not go far beyond this or the coffee will be too weak. When you have produced a rich fragrant concoction, whose delightful aroma, filing the room, is a constant, tempting invitation to taste it, serve in china cups, using in preference loaf sugar for sweetening. You have then a real cup of Creole Cafe Noir, so extensively used at dawn, at breakfast, and as the “after-dinner cup.”

If the coffee appears muddy, or not clear, some of the old Creoles drop into it a piece of charcoal an inch thick, which settles it and at once makes it clear. As it has been proved that strength remains in the coffee grounds, it is a matter of economy to save the grounds from the meal or day before and boil them in a half gallon of water. Settle the grounds by dropping two or three drops of cold water in, and pour the water over the fresh grounds. This is a suggestion that rich and poor might heed with profit.

CAFE AU LAIT Proceed in the same manner as in the making of “Café Noir,” allowing the usual quantity of boiling water to the amount of coffee used. When made, pour the coffee into china cups, allowing a half cup of coffee to each cup. Serve, at the same time, a small pitcher of very sweet and fresh cream, allowing a half cup of cream to a half cup of coffee. The milk should always be boiled, and the cream very hot. If the cream is not fresh and sweet, it will curdle in the coffee. Café au Lait is a great breakfast drink in New Orleans, while Café Noir is more generally the early morning and the afternoon drink.

Having thus bid its readers “Good morning,” and drunk with them a cup of Café Noir, the Times-Picayune will proceed to discuss Creole Cookery in all its forms, from soup “a la Créole,” to “pacandes amandes” and “pralines.”

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CHAPTER II General Directions for Making Soup — Pot-au-Feu, Bouillon and Consomme Uncooked meat is the base of all soups, except such as the Creoles call “Maigre,” or fast-day soups. These delightful Cream Soups, or Purées, will be specially treated later. Soups enter largely into the domestic life of New Orleans, as also more particularly the Pot-au-Feu, the Bouillon and the Consommé. These three are the “mother-soups,” for upon their careful preparation depends taste, flavor and the entire problem of good soup making.

The Creoles have preserved with few modifications many of the customs of their French ancestors, among them being the daily plate of soup. In France soup enters far more largely into the life of the people than in this old French city of New Orleans. The morning cup of bouillon is served in the most exclusive homes. ‘A cup of claret and a plate of good soup form the essential morning portion of the peasantry. The Creoles have elimtnated the morning cup of bouilIon, but retained the daily serving of soup at dinner, in time introducing as a frequent’ substitute that exclusive Creole concoction Gumbo. No dinner is considered complete without either. The custom has been very generally adopted by American residents of New Orleans. The Creole housewife lays the greatest stress upon two great essentials in the making of good soup: in the first place, the soup must never stop boiling one instant until done; secondly, once the soup is started, water must never be added. Neither, on the other hand, must the soup be allowed to boil rapidly, or it will be muddy and lose much of its flavor and strength by evaporation. The “soup bone,” or “bouilli,” as the Creoles call it in New Orleans, must be put on in cold water, without salt, and must heat slowly. The pot must be kept well covered, and no salt must be added until the meat is thoroughly cooked, as the addition of salt tends to harden the fibers of the meat and prevents the free flow of the juices. At no stage must the soup be allowed to boil fast. If the bone has been fractured every inch of its length, the soup will be all the stronger and more nutritious. The beef ghould be selected for its quality, as freshly killed as possible, and preferably of the cut known by butchers as “the horseshoe.” To be most nutritious the soup should boil a long time. The Creoles never serve soup that has been cooking less than five or seven hours, according to the quantity to be made. In a well-regulated household the soup is put on at noon on the rear of the stove, and allowed to cook slowly for four or five hours, until the time comes for putting on the dinner proper. When the moment for adding the vegetables or other ingredients arrives, the strength of the meat has been nearly or quite extracted.

The two suggestions, “never allow the soup to cease boiling when once it has begun, and never to add water after the ingredients are once put together and begin to boil,” have been called the “Golden Rule” of soup making. The housekeeper should take them to heart, for upon their strict observance depends a good plate of soup. If these rules are learned and faithfully followed, the first step has been taken towards setting a good Rice flour, arrowroot or corn starch mixed with a little water are often used to thicken soups; but every good Creole cook knows that the soup that is properly made needs no thickening. Salt should be used sparingly, as also spices, which should always be put in whole. To be palatable, soup must be served very hot.

It is generally estimated that in preparing soups a pound of meat should

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be allowed for every quart of water. The intelligent housekeeper can readfly determine the exact measurements needed in her family, increasing proportions when guests are expected. Pot-au-Feu, or Simple Bouillon The Pot-au-Feu, or Bouillon, is made by boiling a good soup bone, which has been carefully selected for its nutritive qualities, in water a certain length of time, by means of which the nutriment is extracted. Bouillon of the best quality can only be made from good meat, which should be chosen from the fleshy, juicy part of the thigh. Meat from the breast or lower ribs makes good Pot-au-Feu, but of a lighter quality, and is preferred by some Creole cuisiniéres.

The vegetables used are found in the “soup bunch,” which comprises pieces of cabbage, a turnip or two, carrots, parsley, celery and onion. Many Creole cooks add garlic and cloves, thyme, bay leaf and allspice. ‘But this is a matter of taste. The every-day Bouillon is made by boiling the soup bone for four or five hours, skimming carefully as the scum rises, and adding, as it starts boiling well, the vegetables contained in the “soup bunch.” If vermicelli, macaroni or other soup is desired, such as can be made from the simple Bouillon, or Pot-au-Feu, these ingredients are added in the proportions mentioned in the special recipe for these soups, and the soup is boiled an hour or so longer.

The Herb Bouquet Every good Creole cook keeps on hand an “herb bouquet,” made of a spray of parsley, a sprig of thyme, celery and bay leaf. These are tied together, and constitute the “bouquet.” It will flavor a gallon of soup, if cooked for an hour. Pot-au-Feu a la Creole 4 Pounds of Lean Beef.

2 Small Turnips. 2 Onions. 2 Carrots. 1 Parsnip. 1 Cup of Cut-up Tomatoes. 2 Whole Cloves.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 5 Allspice. 2 Irish Potatoes. Small Piece of Lemon Peel. Small Piece of Red Pepper Pod. Bunch of Celery Leaves (Chopped). Bunch of Parsley (Chopped). Pinch of Salt. Pinch of Black Pepper. Sprig of Cabbage.

This Pot-au-Feu, properly made, is truly delicious, savory and delicately odorous. The best cut for this is from the lower end of the beef round. Many Creoles use the brisket in this soup. This is rich and juicy, and gives nutritive value to the dish. If delicacy is preferred to richness in the soup, the marrow bone is omitted. Put the meat into cold water, heating by slow degrees in order that it may gradually penetrate the meat, softening it and dissolving the non-nutritive portion, which rises to the top of the Hquid as a scum. As the scum becomes thicker remove it. After having skimmed well set the soup back where it can be kept on a gentle but steady boil; when the soup is well skimmed, add the vegetables, which have been cut to proper fineness, and a little salt to suit the taste, and let the soup continue to boil from five to six hours, remembering strictly the two essential rules given. ‘By following this recipe you will have an excellent soup. The Creoles often serve the Pot-auFeu with small squares of dry or toasted bread, put into the tureen, and the hot soup poured over them at “the moment of serving.

Should the flavor of the garlic, allspice, cloves or bay leaf be disagreeable, they may be omitted. But they are essential ingredients of the Creole Pot-au-Feu.

A particularly delicate flavor is often obtained by adding to the beef some pieces of raw fowl, or the remains of a cooked fowl, more especially the carcass. But never add remains of mutton, pork or veal, as these meats impart an acrid odor, detracting from the perfection of the Pot-au-Feu. Bouillon To make a good Bouillon is an art in itself. It is the soup that most frequently, after the Pot-au-Feu, enters into the economy of the Creole household. It is not only used in the daily menu, but on occasions of family reunion and soirées, 1s served cold or warm in cups. It is always prepared in a concentrated form for the use of invalids. In illness, where the quantity administered is required to be as nutritious as possible, the round steak should always be chosen for the Bouillon, and it is decidedly

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better not to clear the soup, as the process of clearing not only destroys a great deal of the delicate flavor, but also of the nutriment contained in the Bouillon..

Select’ good fresh beef, and where intended for an invalid allow two pounds of beef to every quart of water. The Bouillon should always boil from six to seven hours. For dinners, luncheons, etc., the following proportions may be used: 6 Pounds of Beef without Bone or Fat. 4 Cloves. 6 Allspice.

A Small Cup of Fresh or Canned ‘omatoes.

1 Teaspoon of Salt.

1 Spoon of Celery Seed.

A Piece of Red Pepper Pod, Omit for the Sick.) 1 Clove of Garlic (Omit for the Sick). Put these ingredients into the soup kettle, after the Bouillon has been brought to a boil. Then set aside and let it simmer gently. After two and a half hours add A Sprig of Thyme.

1 Onion, cut in pieces.

1 Small Bunch of Celery, if you have not used the seed.

1 Medium Sized Carrot, chopped fine. Replace the cover and let the Bouillon boil gently for two and onehalf hours more, making five hours of actual boiling, when not intended for invalid use. At this stage, from the quantity of ingredients used in the above recipe, the Bouillon will measure about three quarts for family use. If you decide not to clarify the soup, set it aside and let it settle, then carefully pour off the upper portion, but do not shake the bowl or disturb the sediment. The Creoles then add about a tablespoonful of celery and a little cayenne. This soup requires no artificial coloring, its own strength and long boiling producing a beautiful tint. Should a greater quantity be required, the housekeeper will guide herself according to the proportions given in this without To Clarify Bouillon To clarify Bouillon, remove the fat and pour the broth into a clear kettle. Add the crushed shells of two eggs. Stir this into the cold soup until well mixed. From the moment it begins to boil let it cook steadily ten minutes longer. Set it back on the stove or hearth for four or five minutes to settle. Then strain it through a cloth. Allow the Bouillon to drip, remembering never to squeeze the bag. <A very clear soup is never a very nutritious one.

Consommé 6 Pounds of Lean Beef.

2 Large Sized Onions.

2 Carrots. 2 Stalks Celery. 1 Piece of Cabbage.

A Consomme is a clear soup. Select six pounds of lean beef, rump of beef and some bones, and cut the meat into small pieces, the bones also being mashed. Put this on in about six quarts of cold water, and, when it comes to a boil, skim well. Add a teaspoonful of salt to help the scum rise more thoroughly, and skim as it rises. Take two large-sized onions, two carrots, a piece of cabbage and two pieces of celery; chop fine and add to the soup, and let it boil six hours, or until the broth is reduced about one-half the quantity. By this time the meat should be cooked into rags. Pass all through a colander and then strain through a coarse flannel cloth. Season highly with cayenne pepper and salt to taste. If the meat is good, the soup will be perfectly clear. If it is cloudy or muddy before straining, crush the shells of two eggs and put them into the soup and let it come to a good boil. Set it back about ten minutes and then strain. Add vermicelli, or macaroni, or pates, according to taste. This soup will require no artificial coloring. Colorings for Soup Having given the recipes for the “mother soups,” which are the bases of all soups, a word must be said about colorings for soup. While colorings have been extensively used in New Orleans, the good old Creoles long ago found out that coloring matter, whether in liquid form or in balls or tablets, detracted from the good flavor of the soup, and that a properly made soup needed no coloring. The good Bouillon has a color peculiar to itself—a reddish yellow, which comes from the juice of the meat. The absence of natural color in the soup indicates that too smafl an amount or a poor quality of meat has been used in proportion to

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the water, or there has been a too rapid process of boiling. Still, if colorings are desired, the following recipe, which is free from deleterious compounds, has long been used by the Creoles for coloring gravies, and may be used with good effect in soups. It is called by the Creoles Caramel Take about a half pint of brown sugar, put it in a pan, on a slow fire, and let it burn or parch, slowly stirring all the time. When it turns a dark brown, add two pints of water, stir well, and then bottle. Put it away and use a few drops at a time to color and thicken gravies and soup broths. Or, take a large raw onion, skin and all, and thrust into the burning coals. When it begins to brown well, take out of the coals, dust off all the ashes and throw into the soup or gravy. This will give all the coloring that is needed.

CHAPTER III Julienne Soup Potage 2 la Julienne 5 Pounds of Lean Beef.

2 Turnips. 2 Carrots. 2 Onions. 2 Leeks. A Small Stalk of Celery. 3. Tomatoes.

A Small Half-head_ of White Cabbage. A Gill of Green Peas.

The shin of the beef is the best to make a good Julienne soup. Set the beef and water in a close vessel where they will heat gradually. After botling five or six hours, take a tablespoonful of lard, heat and add the vegetables, cut into long thin shreds, letting them fry or smother until a golden brown. Then add to the boiling broth. If fresh peas are used they must be boiled apart. If canned peas, simply add to the broth, after putting in the vegetables. Let them cook in the broth one hour longer and serve hot with the vegetables. 5 Quarts of Macaroni Soup Potage au Macaroni 2 Quarts of Broth.

Prepare a good Pot-au-Feu, or Bouillon, according to directions given, allowing a quarter of a pound of macaroni to two quarts of broth. Break the macaroni into two-inch length pieces and add to the boiling broth about a half hour before serving. Some housekeepers cook the macaroni separately in salted boiling water about ten or fifteen minutes, draining thoroughly, and dropping into the boiling broth about fifteen minutes before serving. The soup is often served with Parmesan cheese, grated. Vermicelli Soup Consommé, or Potage au Vermicelle % Pint of Broth to Each Person. 1 Ounce of Vermicelli to Each Person. Prepare a good Bouillon, Pot-auFeu, or Consomme, according to tae taste of the household, the simple Pot-au-Feu being most generally used. A half hour before serving add the vermicelli to the broth, and serve hot. Tapioca Soup Potage au Tapioca 4 Ounces of Tapioca. 3 Quarts of Broth. To three quarts of broth add, about forty minutes before serving, four ounces of tapioca, which has been previously well soaked. Stir frequently while boiling, and serve hot. Sago Soup Potage au Sugo 3 Pints of Broth.

2 Ounces of Sago.

The sago should always be soaked over night. Allow two ounces to every three pints of broth or Consomme. Boil for one hour before serving, stirring occasionally.

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Rice Soup Potage au Riz Y% Cup of Rice.

3 Pints of Broth or Consommé. -Prepare the clear Pot-au-Feu or Consomme. When nearly done add one-half cupful of rice, which has been thoroughly washed and dried. Cook for about twenty-five minutes longer, or until done, and serve. Barley soup is prepared after the same style, using a clear Bouillon or Consomme.

Okra Soup Potage au Févt 2 Pounds of Beef without fat or bone. 2 Cups of Okra, chopped fine. % Pound of Butter. 4 Quarts of Cold 1 Onion, sliced and chopped. Cut the beef into small pieces, and season well with butter, pepper and salt. Fry it in the soup kettle with the onion and butter until very brown. Then add the cold water and let it simmer for an hour and a half. Add the okra and let it simmer gently for three or four hours longer. Ox-Tail Soup Soupe de Queue de Boeuf 1 Ox Tail.

A Bunch of Soup Herbs. 1 Head of 1 Large 2 Carrots. 3 Cloves.

A Sprig of Parsley.

A Small Slice of Lean Ham or Beef. Cut the tail in pieces from the joint, and cut again into pieces one inch and a half in length. Chop the onions very fine. Put the onion and a tablespoonful of lard into a frying pan and add the ox tail. Cook slowly until it begins to brown, then add the carrots, cut in pieces about the size of a green pea, and about a square inch of ham, chopped very fine. Let this brown and when it begins to brown nicely, add the thyme, bay leaf, three cloves, one clove of garlic, all chopped very fine. Let this continue to brown, being careful not to burn, and then add one tablespoonful of flour, dredged in. Nghtly and stirred, and when all is nicely browned, add about five quarts of Consomme, if you have it; if not, five quarts of boiling water and three tablespoonfuls of barley. Let it cook together about four hours, simmering gently, seasoning with salt, pepper and cayenne to taste.

Noodle Soup Potage au Noutlles 3 Quarts of Good Bouillon or Consomme.

1 Cup of Flour. 7 Tablespoonful of Salt.

Prepare a good Bouillon or Consommé. To a quart of the soup, add noodles made as follows: Beat the yolks of three eggs, and the whites of two together until very light; add one cup of flour, one-half teaspoon of salt, and mix with cold water; making a stiff paste; roll very thin; then roll each strip to form a tube; cut in strips, grease and simmer a few at a time in boiling salt water for about twenty minutes. Simmer the noodles in the soup about fifteen minutes. Mushroom Soup.

Potage au Ohampignone % Pound of Good Macaroni %,Pound of Fresh Mushrooms or a Half Can of Mushrooms.

% Carrot and Onion.

2 Pints of Consomme or Bouillon. Break the macaroni into pieces of about three inches; wash and put into a stewpan, with two quarts of boiling water; add three teaspoonfuls of salt. Let the macaroni boil half en hour, and meanwhile make a sauce. Put the butter and flour ih a small stewpan and beat to a cream. Then add the chopped onion, carrot and pepper, the remaining salt and broth, and heat slowly. When the sauce begins to boil, set it back, where it will only simmer, for about twenty minutes. At the end of that time add the cream and then strain the sauce. Pour the ‘water from the macaroni, and in its place put the sauce and mushrooms; cook for five minutes, Potage Crofite-au-Pot 8 Quarts of Good Consommé. 10 Pleces of Dried Toast. 1 Carrot, cut 1 Head of Celery, cut fine. 1 Turnip, cut fine.

Croftte-au-Pot is one of the most popular and excellent Creole soups. Prepare a good consommé. In the meantime, parboil the vegetables in salted boiling water. When tender,

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drain off the water, and add to them about two and one-half quarts of the boiling consommé. Let them simmer until they are very tender. Prepare the toasts and put them into a saucepan with enough consommé to cover them. Simmer gently until the toasts have absorbed all the consommé and show signs of drying up. Then add a little hot consommé, remove them from the saucepan, lay them in the tureen and pour the soup with the vegetables very gently over them. Serve immediately.

Savory Soup.

Potage a la Bonne Ménagérc. 4 Pounds of Lean Beef. 4 Quarts of 1 Onion, chopped fine.

3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. % Cup of Rice. 3 ‘Tablespoontuls of Oatmeal. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt. % Teaspoonful of Pepper.

Put the meat in four quarts of cold water and let it simmer for three hours.

One hour before serving, add onehalf cup of rice, which has been soaked in water until soft, and three tablespoonfuls of oatmeal, one tablespoonful of salt and one-fourth teéaspoonful of pepper. Add parsley, sprig of thyme and one_ onion, chopped fine. Boil an hour longer and serve, very hot. This makes a delicious soup.

Corn Soup.

Soup au Mais Tendre 6 Pounds of the Lower Ribs of Beef. 1 Quart of Sliced Fresh Tomatoes. 1 Quart of Corn, sliced from the cob. One Pod of Cayenne Pepper, without Corn soup is one of the most popular summer soups, and will be found not only delicious, but highly nutritive.

Put the meat and water into a soup pot, and as soon as the scum begins to rise skim carefully. Then add the tomatoes and corncobs. Cook for four hours or so longer; then take out the corncobs, and add the corn, cut fine, salt and pepper to suit the taste, adding a pod of Cayenne pepper, without the seeds; cook one hour longer and then serve with slices of toast bread. Tomato Consommé, Consommé de Tomates A Shin of Veal.

3 Pounds of Shin of Beef.

8 Quarts of Water. 1 Cup of Tomatoes. A ndful of Sorrel (if tomatoes are not used).

Salt and Pepper. 3 Onions. 3 Leeks. 10_Allspice. 6 Cloves. 3 Large Carrots. 1 Head of Celery. 1 Bunch of Parsley. A Chicken may be substituted for the Shin of Veal.

Put the meat or chicken (the latter cut up) into a large soup kettle and let it come slowly to a boil. As it begins to boil more rapidly skim as the scum rises. After another hour add the pepper, salt and vegetables. The soup should boil incessantly, but gently, for about eight hours, requiring in all about nine hours of good cooking. It should, therefore, be put on very early in the morning, and, if required for luncheon should be made the day before. When the soup has boiled gently for the prescribed time take it off, strain into a large bow! and set it away in the ice box until the next day, if not for immediate use. Then remove the fat from the surface, and pour off all the clear part into a saucepan and boil again for one or two hours. Then remove it from the fire. This will make a stiff jelly, which will keep in winter for several days in the ice box, It also serves to make a beautiful Sauce Espagnole, or Spanish Sauce. The best way to keep it is in earthen pitchers holding from one to two quarts, allowing a certain quantity for each day. Mock-Turtle Soup.

Soupe @ la Tortue 1 Calf's Head. % Pound of Calf's Liver. Bunch of Soup Herbs. 2 Hard-Boiled Ess.

1 Bay Leaf. 12 Cloves. 1 Onion. Lemon. 4 Level Teaspoonfuls of Flour. 1 Carrot. Turnip.

1 Level Teaspoonful Mushroom Catsup. 1 Level Teaspoonful Worcestershire Salt and Pepper to Suit Taste. Select a fine calf's head, not too large. If large, reserve half and the tongue and brains to make another dish. Get the butcher to crack the head well and remove the brains. Wash the head thoroughly in cold water, and then be careful to pour boiling water through nose and throat passages until they ure perfectly clean, and scrape out the ears thoroughly.

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washing very clean. Rinse all well in cold water, and be very sure that the head is very sweet and clean before attempting to cook it. Put the head in a kettle with five quarts of cold water, and set it over a moderate fire. When it begins'to boil well skim thoroughly, till every particle of scum has been taken off. Then set it back and let it simmer until the meat is quite tender. This will require about two hours and a half. Then remove the head; take the meat from the bones; skin the tongue, and set away to.cool. Return the bones to the kettle with the vegetables, which have been washed and cut fine; as, also, the spices and the liver. Simmer gently again for two hours, and when cool, strain. Set aside to cool, and when the soup is cold, remove all the fat. Put the butter in a saucepan and melt, adding the flour until nicely browned, but be careful not to burn it. Then add by degrees the boiling soup, stirring constantly. Boil, keeping up a gentle stir, for about five minutes. Then add the meat of the head and the liver, having first cut ‘them into dice, and bring to a boil at once. Take the saucepan from the fire, and add the catsup, salt and pepper. Slice the hard-boiled eggs and the lemon and place them in the tureen, and pour the soup over them, then serve.

If force-meat balls are desired for the soup, prepare them as follows: Force-Meat Balls, Chop a half of a pound of beef or veal and add chopped chicken about an inch in thickness; and a little of the liver and tongue of the calf, a half dozen small onions, one tablespoonful of sweet marjoram, one grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful each of powdered black pepper and mace, and a half teaspoonful of cloves (powdered), three eggs, three grated crackers (sifted), a tablespoonful of butter and two teaspoonfuls of salt; chop up and mix thoroughly together. Then roll in balls and fry slowly in lard or butter. Serve with the soup. Chicken Broth.

Boutlion de Volaille To make a good chicken broth for invalids, take one good large chicken; clean carefully and cut up, being careful to mash all the bones into bits. Place in a saucepan of cold water, and let it simmer gently for four or five hours, until it is boiled down to about two cups of broth. It will have a rich, strong color when carefully strained and seasoned with a little salt and pepper and can be taken by the most delicate stomachs.

Mutton Broth.

Soupe de Mouton & Pounds of the Neck of the Mutton. 4 Quarts of Cold Water. Cup of Rice. 1 Onion. 1 Bay at.

2 Large Turnips. Salt ana Pepper to Wash the neck of the mutton, or wipe it with a damp towel, and put it into the kettle with the cold water. Let it come to a slow boil and skim carefully. Cover well and let it simmer for about four hours. Then remove from the stove and pour into an earthen vessel to cool. When cold, remove all the fat from the surface, or, better still, remove all the fat before boiling. Return to the kettle and add the rice, the sliced turnip and the bay leaf, and season ‘to taste, or Prepare as in Oxtall Soup. Chicken Consommé, Consommé de Volaille 1 Large’ Chicken Cut in Pieces. 1 Onion. 3 Quarts of Cold Water. 1 Small Stalk of Celery.

1 Carrot. 1 Turnip.

Put the chicken into the salt and water and let it simmer gently until the scum begins to rise; then skim. Add the other ingredients. Boil gently for two hours, and serve with slices of toast. The chicken left over will serve to make croquettes or chicken Golden Consommé.

Consommé Doré 1 Fine Chicken. 1 Good Soup Bone. 1 Slice of Fine Ham.

1 Gallon of Water.

2 Eggs, whites and shells. Half Each of Small Parsnip, and Head of Celery.

1 Onion. 3 Cloves. Salt and Pepper. Have the fowl thoroughly cleaned, and put the chicken, beef and ham into a kettle of cold water of the quantity mentioned above, and boil slowly for five hours, being careful to keep the pot well covered. Chop ‘the onion and vegetables and fry them in a little butter and add all the seaCarrot

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re) sonings to the soup. Boil two hours longer, and set away over night in an ice box, The next day remove all the fat; from the top take out the jelly, leaving the thickest part of the sediment which {is good to put into a thick soup. Mix in the shells and the whites of eggs and boil quickly for about ten minutes. Then set it on the hearth to settle. Pour the soup through a thin bag without squeezing; if it does not come out perfectly clear, pass it through again. It should then be a beautiful golden brown color. Only the brightest and cleanest of kettles should be used, and the sieve should be scalded each time to keep the particles from washing back into the soup. This is a delightful soup for luncheons and dinner parties. It may be garnished according to taste, serving with “Croftons,” or Quenelles. Consommé With Poached Eggs. Consommé aur Oeufe Pochés 3 Quarts of Consommé or Bouillon. Break the eggs and drop them one by one into boiling salted water being careful not to allow the water to boil when once the eggs are in it; but have the frying pan, which is always best for poaching _eggs, over a low fire, and cook slowly until the eggs are firm. When firm carefully remove with a spoon or perforated skimmer, the latter being best, and lay in cold water for a moment, until the edges are trimmed evenly. The boiling water tends to make the edges ragged and eggs served in this slovenly manner are not tempting. Transfer to the tureen and pour the boiling soup very gently into the tureen and serve. One egg and about a half-pint of broth should be allowed to each person.

Queen Soup.

Potage @ la Reine 1 Chicken. % Pound of Rice. % Blade of Mace. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Quarts of White Veal Broth. Take a fine large chicken, clean it and put it whole into a pot containing about five quarters of water. Add chopped onion, thyme, bay leaf, one carrot, a small bunch of celery, and one cup of rice. Let the chicken simmer well for about four hours, and, when well cooked, take out the chicken from the broth. Cut off the white meat and cut it into pieces about the size of dice. Then strain the broth, mashing the rice well. Make a puree by taking another saucepan, putting in one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour, letting it melt together without browning. Moisten this well with the soup and a glass of milk, and season with salt and pepper and onequarter of a grated nutmeg, and add to the broth. Then add the chicken, which has been cut up. Put in the tureen little dice of croQtons or bread fried in butter. Pour the soup over and serve hot. The remainder of the chicken can be used to make Chicken Croquettes, Chicken Salad, etc. Giblet Soup.

Potage a UEasence de Gésier 1 Hard-Boiled Yolk for Each Person. 2 Cups of Chicken Broth.

3 Quarts of Boiling Water or Broth. 1 Onion, Carrot and % Turnip, Chopped. 1 Leaf each of Sage and Bay. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour and 1 of The Giblets, Heart, Liver, etc., of Two Turkeys or Four Chickens.

Chop the onion fine and put it into the stewpan with the butter; let it brown, and then add the -chopped vegetables, whole giblets, etc.; fry until nicely browned, but do not let it burn. Then slit the giblets with a knife, that the juices may run out in boiling, and put all into the soup kettle, with pepper, salt, sage, parsley and the three quarts of consommé or boiling water. Add bones or lean meat, cooked or raw, that are left. preferably the meat of the chicken, and let all simmer for five hours. Then strain. Mash one liver fine and add it to the broth; season with Cayenne pepper, lemon juice to taste. Boil three minutes, and have in the tureen one hard-boiled yolk of an egg for each person. Pour the soup over them Rabbit Soup.

Potage de Lapin 2 Young Rabbits 2 Quarts of Cold Water. 1 Onion. 1 Blade of Mace. 1 Tablespoonful of % Cup of Rice.

Cayenne Pepper, % Pod. Salt to the This is a famous Creole soup. The rabbits should be well skinned and

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singed. Wash thoroughly in warm water; this is very important. Then cut the meat into small pieces and put into the soup pot, with the quantity of water given. Chop the onion, mace and bay leaf and add. Place on @ very moderate fire, and let it simmer gently until the meat has grown very tender. This will require about two hours or less. Add the salt, pepper and rice, and simmer for an hour longer. Pour into the tureen over Croftons and serve.

Pepper Pot.

Pot de Potvres 1 Pound of Plain Tripe. 2 Potatoes. 1 Pound of Honeycomb Tripe. Sprig of Parsley. 1 nuckle of Veal. 1 Merb Bouquet. 1 Onion.

2_ Teaspoonfuls of Flour.

Cayenne to Suit the Taste. The knuckle of the veal is best for this. Wash and put into the soup kettle, covering with water, and bring it to a slow boil. Carefully skim off the scum. Let it simmer gently for three hours. The tripe should be prepared the day before. Wash it thoroughly in cold water and boil for about seven hours. Put away in the ice box till needed. Chop the parsley and herbs fine and one-half of the red pepper pod, and add to the boiling knuckle of veal, and also the potatoes, which have been cut into dice. Cut up the tripe into pieces of about one inch square. Take out the knuckle of veal and cut up meat into small Pieces, and add all, with the tripe, to the soup. At the boiling point, season with salt and pepper.. Squirrel Soup.

Potage d@Ecureutl When squirrels are used the gray Louisiana squirrel is best. Venison may be substituted for squirrels. Prepare as for Rabbit Soup.

CHAPTER IV Soupes de Potssons Under this heading come some of the most delightful Creole soups, such as Green Turtle Soup, Oyster Soup, Crawfish Bisque, etc. These not only serve as fast-day soups, but are considered elegant introductions to the most recherché feast.

Fish Soup.

Boutllon de Potsson 6 Slices of Fish of Almost Any Variety. 4 Onions, Chopped Fine.

6 Tomatoes, Chopped Fine.

1 Herb Bouquet. Sprig of Parsley. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Salad Oil. 3% Pints of Water. 7 Chop the onions and fry them in the salad oil. Cut the tomatoes fine, add onions, and put in all the other ingredients, except the fish, adding the flour to make a good roux. When brown add the water, and, after it has boiled about a half hour, add the slices of fish. When they are firm remove the herb bouquet, add Cayenne pepper and salt and pepper to taste, and serve the fish soup in a tureen, pouring it over crusts of dried toast.

Green Turtle Soup.

Soupe a la Tortue 2 Pounds of Turtle Meat, or a 2-Pound Turtle.

2 Fine Large Onions. 6 Cloves. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 6 Alilspice. % of a-Small Lemon. 2 Hard-Boiled Parsley, Thyme, Bay Leaf.

The Creoles pride themselves upon their famous “Soupe & la Tortue,” and justify the old saying that only a good Creole cook knows how to make a good Turtle Soup, as is testified to

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by epicurean visitors from every country.

The following is one of the simplest and best ways of making Turtle Soup —a recipe that may always be relied upon and one that has been used from generation to generation in the most aristocatic Creole homes:

In making Turtle Soup, Green Turtle is always the best for this purpose. Select two pounds of Green Turtle meat, if the turtle is not bought whole. This amount will make a soup for six persons. Increase proportionately. If the turtle is bought whole, first cut off the head. To do this properly, the turtle should be hung with the head downwards, and a very sharp knife should be used to cut off the head as close as possible. To remove the shells, first separate the upper from the lower shell, always being exceedingly careful to avoid touching the gall bladder, which is very large. If it is penetrated, the contents running over the turtle meat would render it utterly unfit for use.

Clean the turtle and the entrails by cutting open and washing thoroughly in cold water. Then put the meat and entrails into a saucepan and parboil about ten minutes. Be eareful to save this stock of water. Chop an onion very fine, and the ham into very fine pieces. Cut the turtle meat into one-inch pieces, mash the cloves and the allspice very fine and chop the thyme and bay leaf. Brown the onions in a tablespoonful of butter or lard, and add immediately the turtle meat. Brown together slightly, and after ten minutes add _ the chopped ham. Let this continue browning and then add two cloves of garlic, chopped fine, and the thyme, bay leaf (minced fine), cloves and allspice (ground), all mixed together with great care. Stir this almost constantly to prevent burning and add two tablespoonfuls of flour that has been well rubbed, stirring constantly all the time. Then dissolve the meat with the water in which the turtle was parboiled, adding gradually until a certain consistency is reached. About three quarts of water will be the required amount. Season this with salt, black pepper and Cayenne to taste, and boil slowly for fully an hour, stirring almost constantly. After cooking one hour taste, and if not seasoned sufficiently, season again and taste. Then chop one-quarter of a small lemon, and put it in the soup. Let it continue to cook, and when well done—that is, when no blood exudes from the turtle after sticking it with a fork—pour into the tureen. Add the whites and yolks of two hardbotled eggs, chopped fine, and the soup is ready to serve. This is a dish fit for a king and is most highly recommended as a genuine Creole Turtle Soup, Turtle Soup No. 2 Soupe @ la Tortue 2 Pounds of Turtle Meat.

2 Tomatoes. 1 Large Onion. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Dozen Cloves Tied in Muslin. 6 Allspice Mashed Fine.

3 Quarts of Water. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs 1 Glass of Grape Juice.

Clean the turtle and entrails by cut‘ting open the latter and washing thoroughly in cold water. Then put the meat and entrails into a saucepan and Parboil them for ten minutes, Carefully save this stock of water. Chop the onion very fine, and cut the ham into very fine pleces. Cut the turtle meat into one-inch pieces; mash the allspice very fine, and mince the parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Then brown the onions in the lard and butter mixed, and almost immediately add the turtle meat. Brown together for ten minutes and add the finely chopped ham. As this continues to brown put in the cloves of garlic (minced fine), the thyme and bay leaf and the ground allspice. Mix altogether, stirring almost constantly to prevent burning. Then add the wellrubbed tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring constantly. Scald and skin the tomatoes and chop them fine, and add to the turtle meat. When well browned, pour over three quarts of the water in which the turtle was parboiled, season with salt and ‘pepper and Cayenne to taste, and let it boil slowly for fully an hour, stirring frequently. After one hour taste the soup, and, if not sufficiently seasoned, add seasoning of salt, pepper and Cayenne again, according to taste. Let it cook for an hour longer and then take off the stove if the turtle is thoroughly done. This may be ascertained

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ee} — by sticking it with a fork. If no blood exudes, the soup is ready to serve. Take off the stove and strain through a@ colander into the tureen. Add the whites and yolks of two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, and one glass of grape juice. Slice a lemon fine and add to the soup and serve hot. How to Serve Turtle Soup Great care should be taken in serving the soup. It should be borne in mind that boiling the soup a second time, or warming it over, deprives It of much of its delicious flavor. To avoid this, fill two tureens with boiling water; let them stand a few minutes, then dry the inside thoroughly and place the tureens in a “bainmarie,” or a hot-water bath. Fill the tureens with the soup and cover tightly. Bring them to the table as needed, throwing in, just before serving, some dainty slices of lemon. If the meat is served, use only the most delicate portions.

Mock Eggs for Turtle Soup. Should the turtle possess no eggs, the following method of making “mock eggs” is often used: Break and beat thoroughly one fresh egg, then take the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs and rub them into a fine paste with about a teaspoonful of butter. Mix this with the raw egg and roll into pellets of the identical size and shape of the turtle eggs, let them Ile in boiling water about two minutes, and then drop into the soup, Terrapin Soup Soupe @ la Tortue 1 Two-Pound Diamond-Back Terrapin. 2 Fine Large Onions. 6 Cloves. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 6 Allspice. ¥% of a Small Lemon. 2 Hard-Boiled 1. Glass of Grape Juice.

Parsley, Thyme_and Bay Leaf. Salt, Peper and Cayenne to Taste. The diamond-back terrapin is the best and the females make the finest and dainflest food, the males being not only of inferior size, but of far less delicate flavor. Terrapins must always be bought alive. They are in season from November till March, and like all other fish, should not be eaten out of season.

To make the soup, clean the terrapin as you would a turtle. Then place in a kettle and boil till tender. Take out and cut into small pieces, saving the water. Proceed as for Turtle Soup. When it boils up take from the fire, add a grated nutmeg, a glass of grape juice, and serve. Garnish with green pickle and delicate slices of fried toast.

Crawfish Bisque Potage @ la Bisque a’Ecrevierc, 8 Dozen Fine Large Crawfish. 3 Onions. 1 Carrot. 1 Bunch of Celery. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 4 Sprigs of Parsley. 6 Cloves. 2 Blades of Mace. 1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor. A Dash of Cayenne, 1 Seedless Cayenne Pod.

Take about eight dozen fine, large crawfish and wash thoroughly, being careful to cleanse off every particle of dust or sand. Set to boil in about a gallon of water. When boiled, take the fish out of the water; save the water. Pick out two dozen of the largest crawfish; remove the inside of the tails and save the heads, cleansing them of every particle of meat. Set this meat to one side with the shells of the head. Pick the meat from the rest of the crawfish, saving all the shells. Take one large onion, a carrot, a bunch of celery, a sprig of thyme, one bay leaf, three sprigs of parsley, six cloves and two blades of mace, one clove of garlic; chop all very fine and put into the pot of water in which the crawfish were boiled. Add all the picked meat, except the reserved tails, and all the shells of the bodies and heads, except the reserved heads. Add one cup of rice and let it all boil till the mixture becomes thick and mushy. When it is well cooked, take it off the fire and mash the shells thoroughly, and the meat also, and strain all through a sieve. Take about a tablespoonful of butter and two quarts of oyster liquor and add this to the soup, seasoning to taste with Cayenne, salt and black pepper. Set to boil slowly. In the meantime, take the reserved crawfish meat and make a stuffing as follows for the reserve heads: Chop an onion very fine and let it brown in a tablespoonful of butter. Squeeze thoroughly a cup of bread wet with water. ‘When well squeezed, mix with a little milk, sufficient to make a paste, season to taste and mix with the well-

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el seasoned crawfish meat. Chop another onion and put in melted butter, and add the crawfish stuffing, letting all fry about ten minutes, adding, in the meantime, a finely chopped sprig each of thyme and parsley and a bay leaf, and mixing thoroughly. Take off the fire and stuff the reserved heads of crawfish. Put on every stuffed head a dot of butter, and set in the oven and bake ten minutes, Place the stuffed heads in the tureen and pour the soup over. Serve hot with Croutons of buttered toast, passing the latter in a separate dish.

Crawfish Soup Potage d’Ecrerisses.

50 Fine, Large Crawfish.

1% Pounds of a Filet of Veal. 1 Slice of Ham, 1 Herb Bouquet. % Half Can of Mush2 Carrots. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Large Onion. 1 Parsnip.

1 Dozen Almonds. 1 Dozen Allspice. 4 Shallots. 6 Tomatoes or a Half Can. Croatons.

Wash the crawfish thoroughly over and over again to take away every particle of dirt. Then boil them in plain water. Save the water. Take out the crawfish and take off all the shells, putting the meat aside. Pound the shells fine; pound one dozen almonds fine and mix thoroughly with the meat of the crawfish, and pound. this in a mortar. In the meanwhile take one pound and a half of a filet of veal and a slice of ham and cut in small pieces. Cut up the onion, carrots and parsnips. Put one tablespoonful of lard in a kettle, and when it begins to heat add the herb bouquet (sweet basil, parsley, bay teaf). the onions, parsnip, shallots, clove of garlic, chopped fine; as these brown add the veal and ham. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour and _ butter rubbed, and the mushrooms, chopped finely. Let these simmer for about five minutes and then add the tomatoes, allspice and cloves, After ten minutes, when the mixture is well browned, add the pounded crawfish shells and the pounded meat and almonds. Pour over all the water from the boiled crawfish and set it back on the stove and let it simmer for about two hours. Skim off all the grease when near time for serving. Then strain through a sieve and serve with Crodtons of toast, cut in slices, placed in the bottom of the tureen. On fast days, instead of the veal and ham, substitute butter and lard, making a Roux (see recipe), and moistening a little with the stock of the crawfish. Then proceed as above. Rice or Crofton Soup is rendered delicious by introducing a small quantity of crawfish broth. This broth is also used extensively by the Creoles in seasoning ragofts on fast days, and hot pies, such as patés de foiles gras; also such entremets as cauliflower, artichokes, etc. The chief essential in making the broth is to have it of the right consistency, and to skim carefully off all the grease before straining. Good judgment must be the guide of the cook in seeking the proper consistency.

Oyster Soup Soupe auw Huttres 4 Dozen Large, Fresh Oysters. 1 Quart of Rich Milk.

The Oyster Liquor.

3 Sprigs of Parsley, Chopped Fine. 1, Dozen Pepper Corns.

In purchasing the oysters always be careful to make the vendor add the oyster juice when intended for soup. Drain the oysters through a colander. Strain the liquor, and put it into a soup kettle, adding the chopped parsley and the pepper corns. Let it come to a boil. In the meantime boil the milk separately in a saucepan, as boiling the milk and oyster juice together is likely to curdle the milk. When the milk comes to a boil, add to the oyster juice and put in the tablespoonful of butter. Stir the soup constantly at this point, throwing in the oysters and continuing to stir until it comes to a boil again. Under ao circumstances allow the oysters to boil, as this destroys their flavor and makes them tough and indigestible. But one must be also careful to see that they are steamed through and through, and then they are. delightful and palatable. The ruffling of the edges indicates the right condition; at this point the soup must be served immediately. Serve with sliced lemon and oyster or water crackers. Made according to the above formula, oyster soup is a most delightful dish and can be eaten and relished by the most delicate stomachs.

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Oyster Soup Without Milk BSoupe auz Huttres 2 la Créoic The Creoles have another delightful method of preparing oyster soup, a method evolved by the old negro cooks of ante-bellum days, and still in vogue in the old families. It is a soup made without milk, and is prepared as follows: Take 4 Dozen Bayou Cook Oysters. The Oyster Liquor.

1 Large Onion.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Sifted Flour. 4 Sprigs of 1 Quart of Boiling Water.

Put the tablespoonful of lard into the soup kettle. Have ready one onion, some parsley, chopped very fine. When the lard is hot, stir in two tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, and make a Brown Roux (see recipe), stirring constantly to prevent burning. When the Roux is of a light brown color add the chopped onions and parsley, continuing to stir, being exceedingly careful to avoid the slightest burning. Strain the oyster juice of about four dozen oysters; mix with about a quart of boiling water and pour into the Roux. When it shows signs of coming to a boil, add the oysters and a teaspoonful of butter. At the boilarsiey. 1 Tablespoonful of: ing point remove from the stove and serve with oyster soda crackers or dry toast, the oyster crackers being always preferable.

Crab Soup Potage de Crabes 1 Dozen Fine Crabs. 6 Ripe Tomatoes. Sprig of Thyme. 3 Spriga of Parsley. 1 of Sweet Marjoram.

1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Teaspoonful of Butter.

2 Tablespoonfuls (level) of Lard. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne.

Cleanse the crabs thoroughly and extract all the meat from the body and claws; scald and skin the tomatoes, and squeeze the pulp from the seeds and juice; chop very fine. Pour boiling water over the seed and juice and strain. Chop the onion and garlic and stew with the tablespoonful of butter and lard. As they begin to brown add the tomatoes, cover, and after simmering a few minutes, add the well-seasoned meat of the crab. Sift over this some grated bread or crackers and season with Cayenne, sweet marjoram and thyme. Pour in tomato water and add about a quart or more of water, and let it boil moderately for about an hour Add the juice of two lemons and 3erve. CHAPTER V Potages Matgres The Creoles excel in the preparation of soups without meat, or fast-day soups, as they are called. The ingenuity of the cooks from generation to generation has been taxed dn the Preparation of these soups, which are in great vogue during the Lenten season. But many of them, such as “Cream of Asparagus Soup,” “Crean of Celery Soup,” have entered into the daily life of the city, and, like the famous Creole Gumbos, are held as dainty and elegant introductions to the most distinguished feasts. Fast-Day Broth Boullon Matgre 6 Fine Carrots. 6 Large White Onions. 6 Turnips.

% Pound of Beans or Dried Split Peas. 1 Small Head of Cabbage. 1 Parsnip. 1_ Stalk of Celery.

% Pound of Butter, or 1 Large Tablespoonful of Lard.

1 Red Pepper Pod, Without the Seed. Peel and cut into fine, thin slices the carrots, turnips and parsnips; cut and chop fine the cabbage, celery and ©

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onions, put all in a saucepan and add one glass of water, and a quarter of @ pound of butter, using the butter preferably to the lard; add the parsley, chopped very fine. Let all boil till the water has evaporated, and then add one pint of red or white beans or split peas, which have been soaked overnight; add three quarts of water and the pepper pod, and let all simmer well for three hours. Then if the beans are perfectly tender at this point, drain or press through a colander; return to the fire and add the seasonings. Let all boil up once and then serve with Croftons. Stale bread may be utilized in preparing the Crofatons, A Winter Fast-Day Soup Potage Maigre d’Hiver 1 Quart of Dried Peas.

1 Lettuce Head Sliced.

1 Head of Celery.

1 Carrot.

2 Turnips. 2 Large Onions. Handful of Spinach.

Sprig Each of Mint, Thyme and Parsley. Stew all the vegetables, except the lettuce, together, after having chopped fine, until they are perfectly soft. Then return to the fire with the chopped lettuce, butter and sugar. Boil quickly about twenty minutes, and serve with Croftons.

Vegetable Soup Without Meat. Purée de Légumes 1 Sweet Potato.

1 Bunch of Celery Leaves, 1 Turnip. 1 Parsnip.

1 Carrot.

_ 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Onions.

Sprig of Parsley and Thyme. 1 Irish Potato.

1 Large Tablesponful of Butter. Cut the vegetables into dice and boll until thoroughly tender in about three and a half quarts of water; this will require about two hours, Then press the whole through a sieve; add the remaining water and bring to a boil, Then add the butter, rubbed smooth with the flour in a little rich cream, or a little of the hot soup. A gill of cream or milk added just before serving increases the flavor. Boil and stir about two or three minutes more and serve.

Lentil Soup Potage 2 la Puréc de Lentilics 1 Pint of Lentils. 2 Quarts of Water. 1 Onion. 1 Small Bunch of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Pod of Red Fepper, without the Seeds, 1 Stalk of Celery, Chopped Fine. Wash the lentils, and, if dried, soak them over night. Drain off the water and put them in a saucepan with the cold water. Allow them to come gradually to a boil. Then set them back on the stove and let them simmer gently for about two hours. Melt the butter in the saucepan and fry in it the minced onion, celery, parsley, thyme and bay leaf, and let these brown; then add them to the lentils; boil about an hour longer, and, if particularly tender, press all through a colander. Return to the fire and add the seasonings. Let them boil up once and serve with Croftons. Red Bean Soup Purée @ la Condé 1 Pint of Red Beans.

1 Minced Onion.

Bunch of Parsley. Sprig of Thyme. Wash the beans and soak them over night in lukewarm water. Drain and put them in a saucepan with the cold water. Allow them to come gradually to a boil; then set them back, and let them simmer gently for about two hours. Melt the butter in a saucepan and fry in it the onion, parsley, thyme and bay leaf until brown. Add these to the beans and boil about an hour and a half longer. If the beans are perfectly tender at this point, press the whole through a colander. Return to the fire, and add the seasonings. Let them boil up once and serve with the Croftons. Some think that the flavor is enhanced by beating up an egg in the tureen and pouring the boiling soup gradually over it, stirring constantly.

White Bean Soup - Potage @ la Purée d’Hartcote 1 Pint of White Beans.

1 Minced Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of 1 Bay Leaf. Bunch of Parsley. Sprig of Thyme. Salt and Pepper. Wash the beans and soak them over night in lukewarm water. Drain and

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put them in a saucepan with the cold water. Allow them to come gradually to a boil; then set them back and let them simmer gently for about two hours. Melt the butter in a saucepan and fry in it the onion, parsley, thyme and bay leaf until brown. Add these to the beans and boil about an hour and a half longer. If the beans are perfectly tender at this point, press the whole through a colander. Return to the fire and add the seasonings. Let them boil up once and then serve with the Croftons. As in Red Bean Soup, a.beaten egg may be added when about to pour into the tureen. First beat up the egg and pour the boiling soup gradually over, stirring all the while.

Dried or Split Pea Soup Potage @ la Purée de Pots Secs 1 Pint of Dried or Split Peas. 1 Quart of Boiling Water.

1 Small Bunch of Celery.

1 Bunch of Parsley.

1 Quart of Good Milk or Cream. Soak the peas overnight, after washing them in cold water and rejecting all that float. In the morning drain, off the water and cover the peas again with one quart of boiling water, setting them back on the stove and letting them cook slowly until tender. Cut up the onion and parsley and celery into fine pieces and add to the boiling peas. Then perfectly tender remove from.the stove and press through a sieve or colander and add the salt and pepper. Then return the soup to the fire and let it boil up once; just before serving add the rich cream or milk, stirring well. The soup should be served with Crodtons or Oyster Crackers. White Bean Soup may be made in exactly the same manner. When not intended for fast days, the addition of a ham bone adds greatly to the flavor. Purée of Green Peas Purée de Pois Verts 1 Quart of Young Green Peas. Bunch of Parsley. Young Onions 2 Quarts of Good Milk or Broth. Pepper and Sait.

Cut the onions and parsley fine, and boil with the peas until all are quite tender, in boiling water, for about a half hour. Then drain. Rub all through a sieve or colander, and add them to the boiling broth or milk. Do not allow this to boil after adding the peas. Season and serve with dainty Crofatons. To keep hot, stand the soup dn a “bainmarie,” or kettle or boiling Sorrel Soup Potage @ la “Bonne Femme,’ ou Soupe a lOseille A Small Bunch of Fresh Sorrel. 2 Cup of Cream or Rich Milk, 1 Cup of Mashed Potatoes.

4 Eggs. 3 Spriges of Parsley. 3 Leaves of Lettuce. 1 Onion. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. A Pinch of Pepper and Salt to Taste.

Wash the leaves and stem them, “the entire length of the leaf. Then chop them fine until you have a quantity equal to a pint or two teacupfuls. Chop the other vegetables and put these and the sorrel into a saucepan with the butter; cover and let them stew gently for ten minutes, and then add the flour, which has been well mixed with a little water. Pour gradually, stirring always, into the three quarts of boiling water. Beat the yolks of the eggs and mix with a little cream or milk in a tureen. Rub the rest of the cream or milk smooth with the mashed potato and put into the soup; add the seasonings. Prepare toast in the form of dice, rubbing them first with the raw onion, and pour some of the boiling soup over the eggs in the tureen and mix very carefully. Put in the pieces of toast, and then add the remainder of the soup. Cover and stand five minutes in a warm oven, and serve hot. \ Potato Soup Potage Parmentier 8 Potatoes. 2 Onions, Cut Fine. 1 Cup of Cream’ or Rich Milk. 1 Pinch of Grated Nutmeg.

Pepper and Salt.

After washing and peeling the potatoes, put them into a saucepan with the onions and add about two quarts of cold water. Bring to a boil. After allowing to cook about forty minutes, if the vegetables are then very tender, mash and pass all through a sieve, and, returning to the fire, add the seasoning and butter. Bring to a boil, and add the cream and a beaten egg, serving immediately with Crottons.

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Carrot Soup Potage Crecy 4 Large Carrots (the redder the better). 2 Large Onions, Cut Fine.

1 Quart of New Milk. 1 Turnip. 1 Teaspoon of Corn Starch. 2 Sticks of Celery. 1 Bay Leaf. Sprig of Thyme. Sprig of Parsley. 3 Cloves.

1 Large Teaspoonful of Butter. Salt and Pepper and Sugar to Taste. Wash the vegetables thoroughly, cutting them fine and boiling until tender in three pints of water. When very soft, mash them and press through a sieve. The carrots must be mashed very fine. Then return to the fire, and, adding about two quarts of boiling water, cover and simmer gently for a while, adding one teaspoonful of corn starch that has been blended well with a little milk. Add the boiling milk and cook for about two minutes more, and serve with Crofatons.

Lettuce Soup Potage de Laituce 1 Large Head of Lettuce.

1 Spoon of French Vinegar. 1 Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Gil 1 Teaspoonful of Flour.

Dices of Stale Bread. 1 Pinch of Sugar. 3 Quarts of Broth.

Prepare a good broth and cook till it is reduced to three pints; this will serve six perscns. Chop the lettuce fine and stew it with a tablespoonful of butter, adding the pinch of sugar and one spoon of French vinegar. Keep stirring constantly, so that it will not burn. Then add the flour (which has been rolled smoothly in butter), the pepper and salt, throw in @ dash of Cayenne pepper. Break in the egg and stir thoroughly. Then pour on the broth. Place the dice of bread in the tureen, and add the gill of cream to the soup before pouring over the bread.

Okra Soup Potage de Févi 2 Pints of Okra, or Fifty Counted. 6 Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Onions Chopped Fine.

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. A Red Pepper Pod, Without the Seed. Wash and stem the okra and then slice it very fine. Chop the tomatoes fine, being careful to preserve the Juice. Chop the onions fine and fry them in the butter. Then add the chopped thyme, bay leaf, parsley and tomatoes and the pepper pod, and, after letting it stew about five minutes, add the okra, stirring constantly, as it is apt to burn quickly. When well browned, add the juice of the tomatoes. Then add the hot water, and set on the back of the stove and let it simmer well for about an hour and a half. Season to taste and serve hot, with Croftons.

Okra must be cooked in a porcelainHned pot, as iron or other metal tends to blacken it.

Winter Okra Soup Potage Févt d’Hiver 1 Can of Good New Orleans Okra, 1 Can of Tomatoss. 2 Onions, Chopped ne.

2 Dozen Oysters. & erablespoonfuls of A Red Pepper Pou. Without the Seed. Chop the onions fine and fry them in the butter. Wash the rice well; then stew it with the onions, tomatoes and pepper in about three quarts of water and one pint of oyster water for about three hours, stirring frequently. Ten minutes before serving add the okra and let it come to a boil. ‘Then drop in the oysters. Boil up once and serve.

Onion Soup Potage @ VOignon 3 Large Onions, Sliced Very Thin or Chopped.

1 Large Spoon of Butter.

2 Large Potatoes, Mashed Fine. Dice of Bread or Toast.

Fry the onions in the butter, until reddish brown. Then add the flour and stir until browned, gently; do not burn, Put the boiling water in gradually, stirring perfectly smooth, and adding the salt and pepper; mix well and boil one minute. Before serving, add the milk warmed, and rubbed with mashed potatoes until they are a smooth paste. Simmer a few moments. Have the pieces of toast ready in the tureen and pour in the hot soup. A puree of onions is made by pressing the ingredients through a sieve and réturning to the fire for a few moments. Serve hot.

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Cream of Onion Soup Purée d’Oignons 6 Onions. 1% Ounces of Butter. 1% Pints of Cream. 2 Ounces of Flour. 2 Pints of Boiling Water.

Pepper. Nutmeg.

Peel the onions and boil in salted water until very tender; then drain and dry well with a cloth; put them on the fire in a saucepan, with one ounce of butter; add the other ingredients, except the remaining half ounce of butter. When the soup comes to a boil, press through the sieve, and return to the fire; add the remainder of the butter and serve. Cream of Celery Soup Potage @ la Créme de Célert Celery Stalks.

2 Quarts of Milk or Cream. 1 Pint of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of ¥% Small Onion.

Wash the celery and onion and cut into fine pieces. Then place them in a@ porcelain-lined saucepan and let boil for about a half hour. Take off and mash, and press through a colander. Set the milk to boil in a farina boiler, and as it heats well, add to it the water and celery that have been pressed. Rub smoothly together the flour and butter, and then stir into the boiling soup, stirring constantly till it thickens to a cream of the right consistency. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve hot. It is very delicious served with slices of delicately toasted and buttered Croftons on a separate dish garnished with sprigs of parsley and slices of hard-boiled eggs. Cream of Corn Soup Potaye & la Créme dg Mats 2 Pints of Grated Corn.

1 Pint of Hot Milk or Cream. 2 Level Tablespoonfuls of Flour. Slit the corn in two and grate from the cobs. Put the cobs into the boiling water and let them boil slowly about an hour, till the water is reduced to three quarts. Then take the cobs out and drain over the kettle. Add the corn and let it boil till very soft. This will require about thirty minutes. Take the soup off and press all through a sieve. Season: highly and set back to simmer gently, adding, in the meanwhile, the flour and butter, thoroughly rubbed together. Stir constantly till the soup thickens, and then add the boiling milk. Cook a@ moment only, take off the fire, stir in the beaten yolks and serve hot, with buttered toast cut in dice shape. Cream of Tomato Soup Potage aux Tomates 2 Quarts of Pure Tomato Juice. 1 Gill of Rice. | 3 Onions. 8 Allspice. 4 Cloves. A Sprig of Thyme. A Pinch of Sugar to Taste. Pepper and Salt.

Stew the tomatoes for about two hours, and then extract the juice. Add the other ingredients, and boil for about an hour and a half; then strain. The rice, being creamy, should now make the soup as thick as cream. Serve with Crofitons or Quenelles. Cream of Asparagus Soup Créme d’Aspergcs 1 Large Bunch of Asparagus. 1 Tablespoonful of of Butter. 1 Quart of 3 Tablespoontule of Rich Cream. 2 Even Tablespoonfuls of Flour or Corn Starch.

Wash the asparagus, tie it in a bunch and put in a saucepan of boiling water. Let it boil gently for about three-quarters of an hour, or until perfectly tender. Take it from the water, cut off the tips or points and put them aside until wanted. Put the milk on to bofl in a farina boiler. Press the asparagus stalks through a colander, and add them to the milk. Rub the butter and corn starch or flour together until perfectly smooth, and add to the boiling milk, stirring constantly till it thickens. Now add the asparagus tips, salt and pepper, and serve, without Croftons, as the asparagus tips form a beautiful garnish.

Cream of Spinach Soup Potage a la Créme d’Epinards Half a Peck or Four Pints of Spinach, 2 Ounces of Fresh Butter.

Two Quarts of Oyster Water. 1 Teaspoonful of Granulated Sugar. Wash and boil one-half peck, or four pints of spinach; this quantity will measure about one pint when cooked, chopped and pounded into a

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MEE fine paste. Then put it into a stew pan with four ounces of fresh butter, the grated nutmeg and a teaspoonful of salt. Let {it cook for ten minutes, stirring constantly. Add to this two quarts of oyster juice (on other than fast days consommé may be used, or good bouillon). Let all boil up, and then press through a strainer. Set it over the fire again and just at the boiling point mix with it a tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of granulated sugar. Serve hot with Crottons.

Cream of Barley Soup Purée @’Orge 3 Tablespoonfuls of Barley, or a Half Cup.

1 Pint of Cream or Milk.

The Yolk of 2 Eggs. 3 Quarts of Water (boiling).

Scald the barley and then put into a kettle with three quarts of boiling water and let it boil about three hours. Take it off and mash thoroughly, and strain through a sieve. Add the hot milk to the stock of the barley, season with salt and pepper, and let it come to a boil. Take off and add the yolks of two eggs. Cream of Rice Soup Créme de Riz.

1 Cup of Rice.

1 Pint of Milk. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. Pepper and Salt to Taste.

Wash the rice thoroughly, rubbing dry. Put it into a saucepan, with one quart of cold water; when swelled add One quart of boiling water, and when it begins to get very tender add the remaining quart of boiling water. Then add the pepper and salt. Take from the fire, mash the rice well and rub all through a sieve. Beat up the yolks of the eggs well with a few tablespoonfuls of cream. When quite smooth stir in carefully a few spoons of the boiling rice water, and then pour the eggs and cream or milk into the saucepan with the rice, which you will have returned to the stove. Mix briskly and then draw aside and stir for two or three minutes, being very careful not to allow the mixture to boil when once the eggs have been added. Serve hot with Croftons or crackers, On other than fast days this is most delicious made with Chicken Consommé, Rice Soup, Without Meat Riz au Maigre 1 Cup of Rice. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 3 Quarts of Water. 1 Spoon of Butter. 1 Pint of Milk. Pepper and Salt. Wash the rice thoroughly, rubbing dry. Put it in a saucepan with one pint of cold water; when swelled, add one pint of boiling water, and when it begins to get very tender add the Temaining pint of boiling water. Add the pepper and salt. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with a few tablespoonfuls of cream, When quite smooth, stir in carefully a few spoonfuls of the boiling rice water, and then pour the eggs and cream into the saucepan, stirring very briskly. Draw aside and stir for two or three minutes, but do not allow the soup to boil when once the eggs are added. Cocoanut Soup Potage de Oocoa 6 or 8 Calves’ Feet.

% Pound of Grated Cocoanut. 1 Gallon of Water.

1 Pint of Cream or Rich Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour or Arrowroot. 3 Ounces of Fresh Butter.

6 Blades of Mace.

The Grated Rind of 1 Lemon. Scald the calves’ feet, and scrape thoroughly without skinning; put them into the soup kettle with a gallon of cold water, and cover the kettle well, Let the feet come to a slow boil and skim carefully. Then add the blades of mace and let the soup boil slowly till the meat is reduced to rags and has fallen from the bones. Then strain into a white porcelain dish or pan, and set it away to cool. After it has congealed, scrape off fat and sediment, and a beautiful jelly will remain. Cut up this cake of jelly and put it into a thoroughly cleansed, white porcelain soup kettle. In the meantime grate the cocoanut very fine, till about a half pound is on hand. Mix this with the pint of rich cream or milk, and add the butter which has been rolled smoothly in the arrowroot or flour. Mix this carefully and gradually with the calves’ feet stock or soup, and season with a grated nutmeg. The soup should then be set back on the fire and allowed to boil slowly for about fifteen minutes, stirring almost con-

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TS stantly. Pour into the tureen and serve with French rolls, or milk biscuit, made very light and thin. On fast days omit the calves’ feet, using another ounce of butter instead. Chestnut Soup Potage @ la Purée de Marrone 3 Quarts of Oyster Water, or A Good Round of Beef or Veal. Quart of Chestnuts. 1 Herb Bouquet. Cayenne Pepper.

Make a good broth of the veal or beef; season with the Cayenne pepper and salt. Follow the rule given for making soups by allowing a@ pound of meat to each quart of water. Skim and boil till the meat falls into rags; then strain and put in a clean porcelain pot. In the meantime shell the chestnuts and throw them into boiling water until the skin comes off easily, Put them into a saucepan with some of the soup water, and boil about thirty minutes, till quite soft. Press through a colander; add butter, pepper and salt. Then add to the soup. Make dumplings the size of a marble with fresh butter rolled in flour, and add. (See recipe for Dumplings.) Boil the soup about fifteen minutes longer and serve. Some prefer the soup without dumplings, thinking it gives more of the flavor of the chestnuts. On fast days use the oyster water instead of the beef broth, following the recipe in all other particulars, and adding a half tablespoonful of butter to the puree before pressing through the colander. CHAPTER VI “Le Boutllt?”

The Creoles long ago discovered, or, rather, brought over with them from the mother country, France, the delightful possibilities for a good entree that lurked within the generally despised and cast aside Bouilli, and these possibilities they improved upon in their own unique and palatable styles of cuisine preparations. In France the “Bouilli” is always served at the home dinner, and so with the new France, New Orleans. Far from rejecting the “Bouilli” as unpalatable and unfit for food, the Creoles discovered many delightful ways of serving it, and their theories of the nutrition that still remained in the boiled beef have been sustained by medical science. The most eminent scientists have found by experiment that while heat coagulates the nutritious substances of the beef, only a small amount is dissolved when the water is heated gradually, and that the ‘‘Bouilli” is still valuable as an article of food.

The pleasant ways that the Creoles have of preparing it restores its flavor and makes it a delightful accompaniment to even the most aristocratic dinners. For breakfast the boiled beef left over is utilized in various ways.

We have selected from among many the following recipes, which need only to be tried to be repeated often, in one form or the other.

The recipes for the sauces mentioned will be found in the chapter especially devoted to “Creole Sauces.” Mirontons The Left-Over Boutllt 3 Large Onions. 6 Shallots. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Sprig of Thyme, 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Pickles.

1 Tablespoor.ful of Flour. 1 Tablespoon‘ul of Butter. This is a favorite way the Creoles Have of serving the cold bouilli that has been saved from the preceding day:

Slice the onions fine; brown in one tablespoonful of butter. Chop the shallots and add to the onions, then add the garlic, thyme and bay leaf,

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all chopped very fine, and season with salt, Cayenne and black pepper to taste. When the whole is browning nicely add a tablespoonful of flour and water, or left-over broth, sufficient to cover. Season this to taste, and then take two pickles, about one finger long, slice very fine and add. Let all boil abeut fifteen minutes, and then lay the cold bouilli, which has been thickly sliced, in the sauce. Set it to bake in the oven about twenty minutes. Garnish with buttered toast Boiled Beef Sauté a la Lyonnaise Boutllé Sauté a la Lyonnatee The Bouilli. 3 Onions.

1 Tablespoonful of Chili Vinegar. The Peel of One Lemon.

Slice the onions and brown them in lard, using about one tablespoonful. Skim the lard off the onions and put the beef in the pan. Stir up and smother. Add the oil, the peel of a lemon, cut fine, and the chili vinegar. Boiled Beef & la Bordelaise Boutlli @ la Bordelaise % Dozen Shallots.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Sauce Espagnole. Slice the left-over beef. Then hash the shallots into very fine pfeces, pepper and salt to taste, and boil to half the quantity over a brisk fire. Then add the mashed beef marrow from the bone and two teaspoonfuls of “Sauce Espagnole” (see recipe), first melting the marrow in a little bouillon. Stir rapidly over the fire, and as soon as it begins to bubble, withdraw it and set it back on the stove, letting it simmer gently for a quarter of an hour. Add the sliced beef, cook about ten minutes and then serve with Crottons or fried crusts.

Boiled Beef 4 la Paysanne Boutlli a la Paysanne 1 Teaspoonful of Flour.

Wineglass of Water.

A Dash of Mustard and Vinegar. Hash the left-over beef, and then chop five large onions very fine and cook them to a golden brown in butter. When nearly done, dust over them a teaspoonful of flour and moisten with a little water. Cook the onions till done and then put in the cold hashed beef, adding a dash of French vinegar and a little mustard, Boiled Beef & l’Indienne Boutllé &@ VIndienne 1 Teaspoontul of Powdered Saffron. 2 Cayenne Pepper Pods.

% Cup of Bouillon.

This is a dinner dish. Crush the pods of two Cayenne peppers and a teaspoonful of powdered saffron and heat and. brown in butter. Then moisten with a little bouillon. Boil the sauce down, and when nearly ready to serve, thicken with a little butter. Serve in a gravy dish with the “Bouilli,” which has been nicely and tastefully garnished with lettuce leaves on a parsley bed.

Boiled Beef With Tomatoes Bouillt auw Tomates Dozen Tomatoes.

Cups of Bouillon.

% Teaspoontul of Flour.

1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. Take a half dozen fine, ripe tomatoes, and parboil them in butter, being careful not to let them burn. Add a pinch of flour and two good cups of bouillon, a little salt and pepper, a clove of garlic, a sprig of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. After two hours take out the tomatoes and allow the beef to cook a few minutes in the Sauce. Then serve on a flat dish, arranging the tomatoes around the beef and under each tomato put a nice Piece of buttered toast.

' Boiled Beef & Ia Bruxelloise Boutlli @ la Bruzelloise 1 Dozen Brussels Sprouts.

Take about a dozen Brussels sprouts and blanch them in boiling water. Drain thoroughly and stew in butter with chopped parsley. After they have cooked ten minutes, take them out of the pan and parboil them in

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melted fresh butter. Salt and pepper to taste and garnish nicely around the bouilli and serve.

Boiled Beef en Papillottes Boutlt en Papillottes 6 Sausages. Chaurice.) 2 Eges. 1 Cup Bread Crumbs. This is a nice breakfast dish. Take the left-over bouilli cut in slices and Parboil slightly in butter. Make a force-meat or quenelle of pork sausage, garlic, parsley and moistened bread crumbs, add two eggs, salt and pepper. Put a layer of this “farci” between each layer of sliced beef, and then add the bread crumbs, mixed with chopped parsley. Put the beef in oiled paper, folded as tightly as possible, cook a quarter of an hour in the oven and serve in the papilJotte (paper.) Boiled Beef With Carrot Sauce Boutllt & la Orecy 4 Carrots. 2 Onions.

1 Gill of Cream.

2 Sticks of Celery.

3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme. Make‘a good purée of fine, red carrots (see recipe), and then strain in butter. Add a gill of rich cream and salt and pepper to the taste. Put the boullli in the platter and pour the sauce around it, serving hot just after the soup.

Boiled Beef With Lettuce Boutllt 2 la Lattue 6 Head of Lettuce. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 12 Sausages. (Chaurice.) 1% Cups Bread Crumbs.

Take six fine, firm heads of lettuce, ° strip off all the green leaves, wash thoroughly and soak and blanch in boiling water. Then throw them into cold water. When very cold squeeze in a towel till they are thoroughly dry and cut off the stalks from below without injuring the heart. Fill this open place with forcemeat balls, made from the bouilli after the recipe already given in Boiled Beef en Papillottes, that is, fry them in lard, with fresh bread crumbs, soaked in bouillon and worked into thé meat. Chop up with pepper, salt and garlic, and add one or two hard boiled eggs. Tie the balls up and cook without adding water and fill the heart of the lettuce. This may be served around the body of the bouilli and makes a beautiful garnish.

Boiled Beef & la Lyonnaise Bouillt 2 la Lyonnaise 6 Sausages. (Chaurice.) 1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Sprig of e.

2 Eggs. Bread Crumbs.

Make a sausage meat of the bouilli, adding the pork sausage, garlic, parsley and thyme. Moisten some bread crumbs in water and dissolve with them two eggs, salt and pepper. Chop the whole and tie it tightly in cabbage leaves. An hour before serving take,out the remaining bouilli and the farci or stuffed cabbage leaves. Let them cool, cut them into slices and roll these in beaten eggs, and then in bread crumbs, and fry in butter. Throw over them a dash of powdered parsley and squeeze over all the juice of a lemon.

Boiled Beef With Egg Toast Boutlk au “Pain Perdy’”

6 Slices of Bouilll.

¥ Slices of Stale Bread.

riggs 1 Pint of Milk.

2 lespoonfuls of Butter.

Parsley and Lettuce Leaves to Garnish. Take left-over or stale bread, slice it thickly and dip in cream or milk. Then dip it in the beaten whites and yolks of egg and fry in butter. Cut the bouilli into slices to match the bread, dip it in the egg and fry also. Serve on a dish with chopped parsley dashed over it and a garnish of parsley or lettuce leaves.

Boiled Beef Sauté With Onions Boutll4 Sauté auz Oignone 1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. Take three fine onions and parboil them in butter over a slow fire. When a rich, creamy brown, add clove garlic and Cayenne pepper. Cut the bouillon in thin slices and add, shak-

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ing the pan until browned. Place in the platter and serve with chopped Parsley dusted over, and the juice of a lemon squeezed over all. Boiled Beef & la Marsellaise Boutlli @ la Marsellaise 1 Dozen Small _ Onions.

% Cup Water. Cup Meat Gravy. 1 Herb Bouquet. % of a Grated Nutmeg. Slice the bouilli into thin, fine slices. Take a dozen onions, the smallest kind, and dust over with sugar, and bake in the oven. When a good color, put a little of the bouillon in the stewing pan and boil down one-half. Moisten with a cup of water and thick meat sauce, allowing half and half in proportion. Then add the beef, the mushrooms, the bouquet garni, salt, pepper and a little nutmeg, and serve Boiled Beef Gros Sel Boutl4 Gros Seb The Boullll.

1 Bunch of Parsley. 1 Head of Lettuce. A French Dressing.

This is the simplest way of serving the bouilli, and the one most used by the Creoles as a daily dish. Take the bouilli from the bouillon, and serve on a platter, laying the whole on a bed of parsley and Httuce. Serve with salt or French dressing. Beef Croquettes Croquettes de Boeuf 1 Pound of Pork or Sausage Meat. 2 Onions. Whites of 3 Eggs. 1 Cup of Bread Crumbs.

Mince the beef with sausage meat and add garlic, parsley, pepper, salt and onions, and bread crumbs soaked in water. Add the whites of two eggs beaten to a froth. Make into balls and roll in the beaten white of an egg, and fry, being careful not to cook too rapidly. When sufficiently browned, pile in a pyramid shape on a dish, garnish with parsley sprigs Boiled Beef Sausage Saucisse de Boutllt 1 Pound of Ground Pork.

6 Allspice. 3 Truffles.

1 Cup of Bouillon.

Take the bouilli of the day before, mince and add chopped parsley, a few spices, salt and Cayenne pepper, and a little beef extract saved from the bouillon. Add the ground pork slowly, mixing thoroughly. When the whole is well mixed, add a few truffles. Fill some entrails that have been thoroughly cleansed with this meat and shape the sausage as one desires. Boil in butter and serve alone. This makes an excellent breakfast dish. A Good Every-Day Hash Hachis 1 Quart of Chopped Soup Meat. 1 Onion. 2 Potatoes.

Chop the left-over bouilli fine in dice shapes, and to every quart of the meat allow one onion, a tablespoonful of butter, two hard-boiled eggs, two cold (left-over) potatoes, a half pint of water, and salt and pepPer to taste. Chop the potatoes, onions and eggs fine and put them into the stewing pan with the meat, adding by degrees the butter, salt and a half pod of red pepper. Without the pepper, use a little dash of Cayenne. Stew very slowly for about fifteen or twenty minutes and serve hot.

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CHAPTER VII Gombo a la Créole Gumbo, of all unique dishes of the New Orleans cuisine, represents a most distinctive type of the evolution of good cookery under the hands of the famous Creole cuisintéres of old New Orleans. Indeed, the word ‘“‘evolution” fails to apply when speaking of Gumbo, for it is an original conception, a something ‘‘sui generis” in cooking, peculiar to this ancient Creole city alone, and to the manor born. With equal ability the older Creole cooks saw the possibilities of original and delicious combinations in making Gumbo, and hence we have many varieties, till the occult science of making a good “‘Gombo & la Créole” seems too fine an inheritance of gastronomic lore to remain forever hidden away in the cuisines of this old Southern metropolis. The following recipes, gathered with care from the best housekeepers of New Orleans, have been handed down from generation to generation. They need only to be tried to: prove their perfect claim to the admiration of the many distinguished” visitors and epicures who have paid tribute to our Creole Gumbo. Gumbo Filé.

First, it will be necessary to explain here, for the benefit of many, that “Filé” is a powder, first manufactured by tribes of Choctaw Indians in Louisiana, from the young and tender leaves of the sassafras. The Indian squaws gathered the leaves and spread them on a stone mortar to dry. When thoroughly dried, they pounded them into a fine powder, passed them through a hair sieve, and then brought the Filé to New Orleans to sell, coming twice a week to the famous French Market, from the reservation set aside for their home on Bayou Lacombe, near Mandeville, La. The Indians used sassafras leaves and the sassafras for many medicinal purposes, and the Creoles, quick to discover and apply, found the possibilities of the powdered sassafras, or “Filé,” and originated the well-known dish, “Gumbo Filé.”

To make a good “Gumbo Filé,” use the following ingredients: 1 Large Tender Chicken.

2 Large Slices or % Pound Lean Ham. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter or 1 of Lard.

1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Large Onion. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Quarts of Oyster Water.

2 Quarts of Bolling Water. 1 Half Pod of Red Fepper, without the jeeds.

Clean and cut up the chicken as for a fricassé. Dredge with salt and black pepper, judging according to taste. Cut the ham into dice shapes and chop the onion, parsley and thyme very fine. Put the lard or butter into the soup kettle or deep stewing pot, and when hot, put in the ham and chicken. Cover closely and fry for about five or ten minutes. Then add the onion and parsley and thyme, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. When nicely browned add the boiling water and throw in the the oyster stock, which has been thoroughly heated. Add the bay leaf chopped very fine, and the pepper pod, cut in two, and set the Gumbo back to simmer for about an hour longer. When nearly ready to serve dinner, and while the Gumbo is boiling: add the fresh oysters. Let the Gumbo remain on the stove for about three minutes longer, and then remove the pot from the fire. Have ready the tureens, set in a “bainmarie,” or hot water bath, for once the Filé is added the Gumbo must never be warmed over. Take two tablespoonfuls of the Filé and drop gradually into the pot of boiling hot Gumbo, stirring slowly to mix thoroughly; pour into the tureen, or tureens, if there should be a second

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demand and serve with boiled rice. (See recipe.) The rice, it should be remarked, must be boiled so that the grains stand quite apart, and brought to the table in a separate dish, covered. Serve about two spoonfuls of rice to one plate of Gumbo. The above recipe is for a family of six. Increased quantities in proportion as required. Never boil the Gumbo with the rice, and never add the Filé while the Gumbo is on the fire, as boiling after the Filé is added tends to make the Gumbo stringy and unfit for use, else the Filé is precipttated to the bottom of the pot, which is equally to be avoided.

Where families cannot afford a fowl, a good Gumbo may be made by substituting the round of the beef for the Squirrel or Rabbit Gumbo.

Gombo d’Ecureutl ou de Lapin These are famous Creole _Gumbos. The following ingredients are used: 1 Fine Squirrel or Rabbit. 2 Slices or % Pound of Lean Ham. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Large Onion. 2 Quarts of Oyster Water.

% Pod of Red Pepper, without the Seed. Skin, clean and cut up the squirrel or rabbit, as for a fricasse. Dredge well with salt and black pepper. Cut the ham into dice shapes, and chop the onion parsley and thyme very fine. Put the lard or butter into a deep stew pot and when hot, put in the squirrel or rabbit. Cover closely and fry for about eight or ten minutes. Then proceed in exactly the same manner as for Chicken Gumbo; add the “Filé” at the time indicated, and serve with boiled Louisiana rice. (See !

Turkey Gumbo.

Gombo de Dinde The Remains of a Turkey.

% Pound of Lean Ham.

2 Tablespoons of Butter or 1 of Lard. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Large Onion. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Quarts of Oyster Water.

% Pod of Red Pepper, without the Nothing is ever lost in a well-regulated Creole kitchen. When turkey is served one day, the remains or “leftover” are saved and made in to that most excellent dish—a Turkey Gumbo. It is made in the same manner as Chicken Gumbo, only instead of the chicken, the turkey meat, black and white, that is left over, is stripped from the bones and carcass. Chop fine and add to the hot lard, and then put in the ham, cut fine into dice shapes. Proceed exactly as in the recipe above, only after adding the boiling.water throw in the bones and carcass of the turkey. At the proper time remove the carcass and bones, add the oysters, and then remove the pot and “Filé"’ the Gumbo. Serve with boiled rice. Turkey Gumbo. when made from the remains of wild turkey, has a delicious flavor. Okra Gumbo.

Gombo Févi 1 Chicken. 1 Onion.

6 Large Fresh Tomatoes.

2 Pints of Okra, or Fifty Counted. % Pod of Red Pepper, without the 2 Large Slices of Ham.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme or 1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Two Level Spoons of Butter.

Clean and cut up the chicken, Cut the ham into small squares or dice and chop the onions, parsley and thyme. Skin the tomatoes, and chop fine, saving the juice. Wash and stem the oKra and slice into thin layers of one-half inch each. Put the lard or butter into the soup kettle, and when hot add the chicken and the ham. Cover closely and let it simmer for about ten minutes. Then add the chopped onions, parsley, thyme and tomatoes, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Then add- the okra, and, when well browned, add the juice of the tomatoes, which imparts a superior flavor. The okra is very delica'e and is Hable to scorch quickly if not stirred frequently. For this reason many Creole cooks fry the okra separately in a frying pan, seasoning with the pepper, Cayenne and salt, and then add to the chicken. But equally good results may be obtained with less trouble by simply adding the okra to the frying chicken, and watching constantly to prevent scorching. The least taste of a “scorch” spoils the flavor of the gumbo. When well fried and browned, put in the

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rere} boiling water (about three quarts) and set on a very slow firo, letting it simmer gently for about an hour longer. Serve hot, with nicely boiled rice. The remains of turkey may be utilized in the gumbo, instead of using In families where it is not possible to procure a fowl, use a round steak of beef or veal, instead of the chicken, and chop fine. But it must always be borne in mind that the Chicken Gumbo has the best flavor. Much, however, depends upon the seasoning, which is always high, and thus cooked, the Meat Gumbo makes a most nutritious and excellent dish. Crab Gumbo. ° Gombo auz Crabes 1 Dozen Hard-Shell or Soft-Shell Crabs, 6 Large Fresh Tomatoes.

2 Pints of Okra, or Fifty Counted. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme or 1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Two Level Spoons of Butter.

This is a great fast-day or “maigre” dish with the Creoles. Hard or softshell crabs may be used, though more frequently the former, as they are always procurable and far cheaper than the latter article, which is considered a luxury. Crabs are always sold alive. Scald the hard-shell crabs and clean according to recipe already given, “taking off the dead man’s fingers” and the spongy substances, and being careful to see that the sandbags on the under part are removed. Then cut off the claws, crack and cut the body of the crab in quarters. Season nicely with salt and pepper. Put the lard into the pot, and when hot throw in the bodies and claws. Cover closely, and, after five or ten minutes, add the skinned tomatoes, chopped onions, thyme and parsley, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. After five minutes add the okra, sliced fine, and when well browned, without the semblance of scorching, add the bay leaf, chopped fine, and the juice of the tomatoes. Pour over about two quarts and a half of boiling water, set on a slow fire and let it simmer well for about an hour, having thrown in the pepper pod. When nearly ready to serve, season according to taste with Cayenne and added salt; pour into a tureen and serve with boiled rice. This quantity will allow two soft-shell crabs or two bodies of hard-shell crabs to each person. Oyster Gumbo.

Gombo aux Huttres 2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor. 1 Teaspoonful of Lard or Butter. 1 Quart of Hot Water.

1 Large White Onion.

Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf. Put the lard into a kettle, and when hot add the flour, making a brown roux. When quite brown without - burning, add the chopped onions and parsley. Fry these, and when brown, add the chopped bay leaf; pour in the hot oyster liquor and then add the hot water. When it comes to a good boil, just before serving, add the oys‘ters which have been well drained, without pouring water over them, however. Cook for about three minutes longer and take off the stove and stir gradually two tablespoonfuls of Filé into the boiling hot gumbo. Have the tureen ready in a ‘bain-marie,” or hot water bath, and pour in the gumbo and cover. Bring to the table immediately and serve with boiled rice, allowing about six or eight oysters to each person.

Shrimp Gumbo Fuilé.

Gombo Filé aur Chevrettes 50 Fine Lake Shrimp.

2 Quarts of Oyster Liquor. 1 Quart of Hot Water.

1 Large White Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter. Dash of Cayenne.

Salt and Black Peppes to Taste. Shell the shrimp, season highly and scald in boiling water. Put the lard into a kettle, and, when hot, add the flour, making a brown roux. When quite brown, without a semblance of burning, add the chopped onion and the parsley. Fry these, and when brown, add the chopped bay leaf; pour in the hot oyster liquor and the hot water, or use the carefully strained Hquor in which the shrimp have been boiled. When it comes to a good boil and about five minutes before serving, add the shrimp to the gumbo and take off the stove. Then add to the boiling hot liquid about two tablespoonfuls of the “Filé,” thickening just as de-

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sired. Season again with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately with boiled rice. (See recipe, ‘Boiled Rice.”) Shrimp Gumbo, Gombo auz Chevrettes Lake shrimp are always used in making this gumbo, the river shrimp being too small and delicate. Purchase always about 100 shrimp, or @ small basketful, for there are always smaller shrimp in the pile which, when cooked, amount to little or noth-+ ing. In making Shrimp Gumbo, either “Filé” or Okra may be used in the combination, but it must be borne in mind that, while the “Filé” is frequently used, shrimp are far more delicious for gumbo purposes when used with okra. The shrimp should always be scalded or boiled before putting in the gumbo. (See recipe for “Boiling Green or Herb Gumbo, Gombo auz Herbes A Veal Brisket 1 Large Slice of Lean Ham. Equal Parts of the Leaves of Young Cabbage, Radish, Turnips, Mustard, Spinach, Watercress, Parsley and Green Onion.

1 Large Red or White Onion. Red Pepper Pod.

1 Bay reat prig of Thyme.

1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. rove. 9 Allspice.

Cayenne to Taste.

Soak and wash the leaves thoroughly, being careful to wash each leaf separately, to be sure there lurk no insects in the folds or ridges. Then trim by taking off all the coarse midrib s9f the leaves, which will make the gumbo taste harsh and unpalatable. Boil the leaves together for about two hours and then parboil by adding a teaspoonful of cooking soda. Strain and chop very fine, being careful to save the water in which they were boiled. Cut the brisket of veal and the sliced hanf into small pieces and dredge with black pepper and salt, and chop one large white or red onion, Put a heaping teaspoonful of lard into a deep frying pan, and, when hot, add the chopped veal and the ham. Cover and let it simmer for about ten minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent burning. Then add the chopped onion and a little sprig of parsley chopped fine. When it comes to a rich brown, add the greens, and when these are browned, pour over four quarts of the water in which the leaves have been boiled. Throw in the marjoram and the red pepper pod and the clove and allspice, mashed fine. Set it back on the stove and let it boil for about one hour longer, adding the Cayenne or “hot pepper,” and you will have a regular gumbo peculiar to New Orleans alone. Serve with boiled rice.

Cabbage Gumbo, Gombo Chouw 1 Large Head of Cabbage (green and white mixed).

1 Round Steak.

2 Large Slices of Lean Ham. 2 Pounds of Creole Sausage. (About 6 to a Pound.) 1 Pod of Cayenne Pepper, without the 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard.

Salt and Black Pepper and Cayenne to Shred the cabbage and wash each leaf separately and thoroughly to avoid insects. Then chop the entire head very fine, into pieces about half the size of dice. Cut the steak or brisket into small squares, also the ham, and fry in the deepest kettle you have, putting the meat into the pot when the lard is very hot. When it begins to brown,*add a chopped onion and the sausage, and then add the chopped cabbage, stirring and pouring in enough water to prevent it from burning. Throw in the red pepper pod and a dash of Cayenne, and salt to taste. Add a little black Pepper. Stir often and allow the ingredients to cook well, gradually adding, if necessary, a little water, and stirring frequently to prevent burning. When thoroughly cooked, make a cream sauce as follows:

Take one pint of new milk and two tablespoonfuls of flour and mix thoroughly, so as not to be lumpy. Stir this into the gumbo while boiling, and continue stirring for five minutes. Serve with boiled rice. If it is not possible to procure milk, almost the Same effect may be attained by mixing the flour in cold water of the same measurement anl stirring in as already given. The gumbo must not be allowed to stand on the fire after the flour has been boiled in it for five minutes, as it will burn.

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CHAPTER VIII Du Poisson The perfection and variety of the fish found in the New Orleans markets are unsurpassed. We have here all the fish found in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico contiguous to New Orleans, the Mississippi Sound and our own lake shores. These constitute the famous salt-water varieties, such as the Sheepshead, considered by many the best fish in the Gulf; the famous Pompano and Spanish Mackerel, the dainty Croaker, the toothsome Flounder, the Bluefish, the Silver Trout, Tenderloin Trout, Speckled Trout and the Grouper. Among shell fish we have the Hard-shell Crab, the Softshell Crab, considered a great luxury in other parts, but always to be found in the New Orleans market; the appetizing Lake Shrimp; that delicious bivalve, the Oyster; the Crawfish, and the famous Green Turtle, so highly prized as a dainty morsel. Again, in the rivers: and bayous and small streams of Louisiana we have many delightful varieties of fresh-water fish, such as. fresh-water or Green Trout, the Sacalait and a coarse fish called the Buffalo. The River Shrimp of Louisiana are unique in the United States. They are of a far more delicate variety than the Lake Shrimp and much prized as an article of food. Both Lake and River Shrimp are abundant in the summer time and are used alike by rich and poor. In the following recipes the most delightful methods of preparing these fish are given, methods which may be used by all according to the purse, the conditions of the poorest having been considered as well as the wants of the wealthy. All are equally recommended, being the most perfect preparations of their kind in use among the Creole housekeepers. It might be added here, for the benefit of any Northern housekeepers into whose hands this book may fall, that many of the recipes may be modified according to good judgment in preparing the fish found exclusively in the Northern markets. For instance, in making the famous ‘‘Courtbouillon,” which is in all respects a distinctive Creole conception, any firm fish, such as the Bass, may be used, though, of course, the flavor of the delicious Red Snapper or Red Fish used in making a “Courtbouillon,” will be found wanting. With modifications that will suggest themselves to any intelligent housekeeper, they may be used the world over in preparing fish of other varieties than those which are the delight and pride of the New Orleans Fish Market.

How to Tell.Good Fish, Unless perfectly fresh, fish is unfit for use. Care should be taken to see that the gills are bright and red, the scales shining, the eyes clear and the flesh very firm and free from any unPleasant odor. In the New Orleans Fish Market the vendors generally clean and scale the fish, if requested to do so; but this cleaning and s ling is not to be entirely depended upon, because it is rarely thorough, only the heavier scales and entrails being removed. On coming home from the market, the fish should be immediately rescaled and thoroughly cleansed and washed without soaking in water; it is far better to let the water run over the fish, for thus the smallest particle of blood is removed. This is very important in order to have a good,'wholesome, savory dish. Then sprinkle the fish on the inside with salt, and set in the ice box. If this is wanting, put it in a very cool place, but it is always best for it to remain on ice until ready to use, especially during the summer.

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Methods of Cooking Fish.

Visitors to New Orleans declare that nowhere is fish cooked in such palatable ways as in this old FrancoSpanish city. The experience of generations of fine old cooks has been brought to bear upon the preparation of the fish found in the Louisiana waters, and those of the Mexican Gulf, with the result that a Creole code of rules for the cooking of even the smallest and least important fish prevails, and it is considered little short of barbarous to depart from it. The Creole methods of boiling and baking fish are the perfection of cullnary art and unlike any method in vogue elsewhere.

Special recipes are, therefore, given for the boiling and baking of Sheepshead, Redfish, Red Snapper, as, also, for making the world-famous Creole “Courtbouillon” and “Bouillabaise.” These rules should be strictly observed in cooking these fish if one would bring out the best flavor of each. But there are other fish, such as Green Trout and Perch which, when simply broiled and served with appropriate sauces, are known to preserve their best flavor in this species of cooking. The following general rules for boiling, broiling, baking, stewing and frying fish should be carefully followed wherever indicated in the recipes. BOILED FISH.

Poisson Boutllt General Rules for Boiling Fish, -Clean and wash the fish thoroughly, make a small letter “S” with knife on the back; pass twine around the body of the fish so as to secure it. Never wrap or tie in a cloth. Have ready a kettle of boiling water and throw in a@ sprig of onion, thyme and bay leaf, eight or.ten cloves, about two dozen allspice, all mashed fine; a bit of lemon peel and a red pepper pod. When the water has boiled long enough to have extracted the flavor of those ingredients, drop the fish in carefully, so as to avoid breaking. Let it boil about ten minutes and then take out carefully. Put into a strainer and drain quickly. Place on a bed of parsley with garnishes of lemon and serve either a Mayonnaise or Genoise Sause or Sauce Hollandaise. (See recipes.) The Creoles add a clove of garlic to the boiling water, but this is according to taste.

BROILED FISH.

Poisson Grillé General Rules for Broiling Fish. Always use the double broiler, made of wire, ‘as this allows the cook to turn the fish from side to side without disturbing the body during the Process of broiling, and possibly breaking the flesh. Clean the fish, without cutting off the head and tail. When the fish is large split down the back; else broil whole. Always serve broiled fish whole. Have a clear moderate fire. Expose first the flesh side to the fire, then the skin, for as the latter browns it is liable to burn quickly, Great care must, therefore, be taken not to burn the skin side. Before placing on the broiler, rub the fish well with salt and pepper, mixed in a little sweet oll or a little butter ofl or butter. If the fish is small, broil on a quick, clear fire; if large, as mentioned above, the fire must be moderate, or the outside of the fish will be charred before the inside is done. When the fish is done through and through, which can quickly be determined by the flesh parting easily from the bone, remove the gridiron from the fire, and loosen the fins from the broiler with a knife, being careful not to break the flesh, Then place the hot dish over the fish, and, with a dexterous movement, turn the two back again, thus separating the gridiron from the fish and placing the latter in the dish. Butter well, season with a little pepper and salt, if deemed necessary, and pour over it a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and lemon juice. Serve with garnishes of sliced lemon and parsley, or garnishes of delicate green lettuce leaves.

BAKED FISH.

Potsson au Gratin General Rules for Baking Fish. Clean the fish, cutting off the fins, Make the letter “‘S” on the sides. Rub well inside and out with pepper and salt. Butter a stewpan and put in one large chopped onion and a wineglassful of water. Place the fish in the pan, put in the oven and let it

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bake about twenty minutes, having been careful to place lumps of butter over it and basting frequently. When done carefully lift the fish out of the pan and put it into the dish in which it is to be served. Take the gravy in which the fish has been cooked and add about a cup of oyster water, the juice of one lemon, two tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, one tablespoonful of minced parsley, thyme and sweet marjoram, ten allspice, one clove of garlic, a little Cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix all thoroughly over the stove, adding a little butter if the gravy adheres too much to the pan. Pour over the fish, and garnish with whole mushrooms and slices of lemon laid alternately upon Crofttons or dried toast, cut diamond shape.

STEWED FISH.

Potsson en Matelote General Rules for Stewing Fish. Clean the fish well, slice and pour over it one cup of ‘good, boiling vinegar. Make a roux by putting one tahlespoonful of lard into the stewpan, and when hot add gradually two tablespoonfuls of fiour rubbed smoothly. When quite brown, take the fish which has been previously rubbed with salt and pepper, and put it in the pot. Let it simmer gently a few minutes, and then add a large chopped onion, parsley, one clove of garlic, one sprig of thyme, a bay leaf, two blades of mace and eight or ten allspice. Let these brown and cover with water sufficient to prevent burning. Put the fish on a slow fire to stew, and when half done, add a little Cayenne. When done, place the fish in a dish, pour the gravy over it, and garnish with Croftons, with alternate slices of lemon and prepared horseradish, FRIED FISH.

Potssons Frits General Rules for Frying Fish. Certain of the fish of the Mexican Gulf are always best when fried. Of these are the toothsome Croakers, the delicate Sacalait and Patassas, and also the Speckled Trout when served in tenderloin steaks.

The secret of good frying Hes in having the lard heated just to the proper point. If the fish is placed In boiling lard, it is liable to burn quickly without being cooked through and through. If placed simply in the wellheated lard, it is delicate and tender and there is no tax upon the digestive organs. Always have sufficient lard in the pan to fry all the fish that is on hand, and never add a lump of cold lard to the heated substance. This checks the cooking of the fish and spoils the taste. If the lard spits and crackles, that is no evidence of boiling. It only means that the lard is throwing off drops of moisture that have crept in. Boiling lard is perfectly still until it begins to smoke, and then it is in danger of burning and must be removed from the fire. To test the lard, drop in a piece of bread. If it begins to color, the lard is ready for frying. When the fish is fried, skim it out, draining off all the fat. Butter is never used in frying fish, as it burns quickly. A Short Resume of the Way in Which Fish of the New Orleans Market Should Always Be Cooked.

Sheepshead may be boiled, broiled or baked, and is good with any sauce. Redfish is principally used in making ‘“‘Courtbouillon,” or it is boiled and served with an Hollandaise Sauce, or Red Snapper should always be boiled or baked. It is delightful served & la Chambard, but it is best a la Grouper is served in the same way as Red Snapper.

Flounder should always be baked & la Nouvelle Orleans, or a la Normande.

Pompano should always be broiled and served with Sauce a la Maitre d’Hotel.

Spanish Mackerel should always be broiled in the same manner as PomPpano, and served with Sauce a la Maitre d’Hotel.

Bluefish should be cooked and served in the same manner as PomPano and Spanish Mackerel. Speckled Trout is generally broiled and served in tenderloin, as a Tenderloin Trout with Sauce a la Tartare. Green Trout and Perch should be broiled and served with a Sauce & la Maitre d’Hotel, or else boiled and served with a Sauce Genoise, or a Hollandaise or Drawn Butter Sauce.

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at — Croakers are fried and served with garnish of parsley or lemon.. Patassas, Sacalait and other small fish are served in the same manner as Croakers.

Soft-shell ‘Crabs may be fried in the same manner as Croakers, or broiled and served on toast. Shrimp are generally boiled, with plenty of seasoning. The River Shrimp are always served as boiled, shells and all, but the Lake Shrimp enter into many combinations in cooking. Hard-shell Crabs may be stuffed, stewed, fried, or made into Gumbo. All left-over broiled, baked or boiled fish should be utilized in making salads, croquettes, etc. Oysters are served in almost every conceivable way, and enter into the most delightful combinations in cooking.

A fish weighing three pounds, or small fish in quantity sufficient to make three pounds (uncooked) will serve six persons, THE SHHEPSHEAD Oasburgot Of all the fish found in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, the Sheepshead is perhaps the most to be commended for frequent household use, being susceptible of a far greater variety of modes of preparation than any other fish. The flesh being of less rich fiber than the Redfish, Red Snapper, Pompano and Spanish Mackerel, it may be used from day to day without injury to the stomach. It is good in almost any form and may be boiled, baked or broiled, and served with almost any sauce.

Boiled Sheepshead Oasburgot Bowl A 3-pound Sheepshead.

1 Sliced Onion.

3 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley.

1 Table1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. spoonful of French Vinegar. Wash and thoroughly clean the fish, and then lay on a pan and open the flesh on either side by making the letter “S” with the knife. This is done to prevent the fish from puffing out or drawing up, and to insure thorough cooking and a perfect shape afterwards. Then tie the fish well with cord or twine, wrapping it around the body. Never encase a botled fish in a cloth; put the fish in a deep saucepan and add boiling water sufficient for the fish to swim in it. Throw in a tablespoonful of spice (well mashed). a sliced onion, three bay leaves, a sprig of parsley (all chopped very fine), a tablespoonful of French vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover well and let it boil for ten minutes. After ten minutes, the fish is cooked. Prepare a “Cream Sauce” (see recipe), and serve immediately. Baked Sheepshead.

Casburgot au Gratin A 3-pound Sheepshead.

1 Large Onion.

1 Bay Leaf.

6 Fresh Tomatoes. 2 Dozen Lake 1 Dozen Oysters. % Can of Mushrooms. 2 Crackers. Dry Toast Cut in Dice Shape.

3 Sprigs Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Clean and wash the fish; place on a platter; chop one large onion fine, rub the fish first with salt and black pepper, and then take a large and deep kitchen pan; place in it a_ tablespoonful of butter, the chopped onion, ‘bay leaf and thyme. Place the fish on top of this and pour over a pint of water. Cover with another close pan and put the whole on top of the oven (not on the inside). Bake from the bottom. When it begins to boil from below, turn the fish over carefully without breaking, and let it bake on the other side. Take a saucepan and put in it a tablespoonful of butter and mix thoroughly with two tablespoonfuls of flour. Let it brown without burning, and then add six fresh tomatoes, skinned and chopped fine, or a half can. Add two dozen Lake Shrimp that have been cleaned well and scalded, a half can of mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste. Let all cook for about five minutes and add water with the gravy in which the fish is cooking. Mix well and cover the fish with it. Parboil one dozen oysters, and when the fish is cooked set it in the dish in which it is to be served and place the oysters all around it on small slices of dry toast. Cover the

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fish alternately with the shrimp and oysters, as a garnish over and around it. Mash two crackers into crumbs and sprinkle over, and put a number of small bits of butter on top of the fish. Place the dish in the oven and bake the fish with a quick fire until brown, and serve immediately. Sheepshead & la Creole.

Casburgot 4 la Oréole A 3-pound Sheepshead.

1 Bunch of Parsley.

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 4 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 1 Quart of Boiled Cream. Yolks of 4 3 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.

Bread Crumbs.

Prepare the Sheepshead as for boiling (see recipe Boiled Sheepshead.) When quite done take out of the water and flake off all the flesh from the bones. Have ready’ a quart of boiled cream or milk. Beat the yolks of four eggs and mix with the cream. Chop one large onion, a bunch of parsley, a sprig each of thyme and bay leaf, and add to the cream and eggs. Let it boil up once, and while boiling, throw in three tablespoonfuls of flour, rubbed perfectly smooth, in a little cream, and about two tablespoonfuls of butter. Remove from the fire. Have ready a deep dish, well buttered, and put in a layer of fish and then a layer of the sauce, until the dish is full. Sprinkle over with bread crumbs. Place in the oven and bake about a half hour, or until brown. Baked Sheepshead & la Creole. Casburgot a la Créole au Gratin A 3-pound Sheepshead.

1 Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 1 Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Chopped 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Pint of Boiling Water.

Salt and Pepper and Flour to Dredge. A Hollandaise, Bechamel or Tomato The following is a more simple manner, where meats are limited, of baking Sheepshead for frequent family use. Clean the fish thoroughly, inside and out; wash well and dry thoroughly with a clean towel. Rub it well with salt and pepper, then make a dressing, taking one cup of stale bread crumbs, wet and then squeezed free of all water, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper. Mix well and fry in a little lard. One dozen oysters or shrimp, or the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs added and mixed increase the flavor of the dressing, but the dressing can be made very nicely without. After frying the dressing a few minutes, take off the stove and stuff the body of the fish and sew up with soft thread or soft yarn. Score or slit the fish on either side, making the scores about an inch apart, and lard it either by putting a strip of salt fat in each gash or filling with lard. Grease the bottom of a baking pan, put the fish in and dredge thickly with salt and flour and a little Cayenne. Cover the bottom of the pan with the grease, add a little boiling water, and put the fish in a hot oven. Baste every ten minutes or so by taking a spoon and pouring the gravy over the fish. Allow about fifteen minutes of baking to every pound of fish, the ordinary sized fish of four pounds requiring about one hour. When brown on one side, turn on the other, and when done carefully slide the fish into the center of the flat dish in which it is to be served, and garnish nicely with slices of lemon, fried potato balls and chopped parsley. Make the garnish by placing sprigs of- parsley between the fried potato balls and laying on the slices of lemon. Serve with Hollandaise Sauce or Bechamel Sauce. (See Where the fish is not served with separate sauce a good sauce from its own juices may be made. Simply grease and cover the bottom of the pan with boiling water and place in the fish. As it begins to bake well take a half dozen good fresh tomatoes or a half can of tomatoes, one onion, one bay leaf, a sprig of thyme and a blade of mace, chop all fine, and mix thoroughly and pour over the baking fish. Add a little butter, salt and pepper, and a very good every-day sauce will be the result.

RED SNAPPER AND REDFISH.

Red Snapper et Poteson Rouge These are distinctive fish, and form unique and most delightful dishes of the Creole cuisine,

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ED Courtbouillon & la Créole. Six Fine Slices of Redfish or Ked Snapper (equal to 3 pounds). 7 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.

12 Well-Mashed Allspice. 3 Sprigs of Thyme.

3 Sprigs Parsley. 3 Sprigs Sweet Marjeram. 3 Bay Leaves.

1 Large Onlon. 1 Clove of Garlic. 6 Large Fresh Tomatoes or a Half Can. Those kings of the New Orleans French Market, the Red Snapper or the Redfish, are used in making the pride and glory of the New Orleans cuisines, ‘a good ‘“Courtbouillon.” More generally and with finer results the Redfish or “Poisson Rouge” is used. This fish may always be known by the single spot on the tail. To make a real Courtbouillon slice the Redfish in fine, clear-cut pleces, after having thoroughly washed and cleaned it. Make a ‘“‘Roux” by putting one tablespoonful of lard in a deep can or kettle. When hot add gradually two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Throw in about ten or twelve wellmashed allspice, and three sprigs each of chopped thyme, parsley, bay leaf and sweet marjoram, one clove of garlic and one large onion, chopped very fine. Add six fresh, large tomatoes, chopped fine, or one-half can of tomatoes. Add about one quart of water, and let it boil well. Then add salt and Cayenne to taste, and when this has boiled about five minutes add the fish, putting in slice by slice. Add the juice of a lemon, and let all boil about ten minutes. Serve with French fried potatoes, mashed potatoes or potato croquettes.

A Courtbouillon of Red Snapper is made in same way.

Spanish Courtbouillon.

Courtbouillon a VEspagnole 6 Slices of Redfish or Red Snapper (equal to 3 pounds).

1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.

1 Large Onion, 6 Tomatoes, 3 Sprigs of 1 Clove of Garlic. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil.

2 Bay Leaves. 2% Pints of Water. The delightful adaptability of the New Orleans cuisine to the wants of all the people may be seen in the following Courtbouillon, which is in general use among the families of moderate means, and is, indeed, a very Pleasing way of cooking Redfish: Take four to six slices of Redfish. Make a Roux by putting one tablespoonful of lard into the stewpan. and when it is hot, stir in gradually two tablespoonfuils of flour. Add one large chopped onion, six tomatoes (chopped), the chopped parsley, clove of garlic, sweet basil and thyme, all chopped very fine. Add two bay leaves whole. When it browns nicely without burning, pour in about twu Pints of water and let it come to a boil. Rub the fish well with salt and pepper, and pour over it a cup of boiling vinegar. Put the fish, slice by slice, into the pot and let it simmer for about a half hour, or until the flesh begins to be soft. Then remove from the fire, take out of the pot, and lay the slices in a dish. Take the bay leaves out of the gravy, pour the gravy over the fish, and serve with garnishes of sliced lemon. It is a most economical Friday or fast-day dish in large families when served with boiled rice, or potatoes botled whole.

Bouillabaisse.

6 Slices of Red Snapper.

Redfish.

Y% Lemon.

6 Large Fresh Tomatoes, or % Can. 3 Onions. 1 Herb Bouquet.

3 Bay Leaves. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 6 Allapice. 2 Tablespoonfula of Olive 1 Good Strong Pinch of Saffron. This is the dish that drew from Thackeray that famous tribute to Creole Cookery: ‘In New Orleans you can eat a Bouillabaisse, the like of which was never eaten in Marseilles or Paris.”

The reason is clear, for in those old French cities the Boulllabaisse is made from the fish of the waters of the Mediterranean sea, notably the Sturgeon and the Perch combined, while in New Orleans it is made from those matchless fish of the Gulf of Mexico, the Red Snapper and the Redfish (Poisson Rouge). It will be noticed that it takes two kinds of fish to make a Bouillabaisse. The first Bouillabaisse was made in Marseilles, and the old Creole tradition runs that it was the discovery of two sailor 6 Slices of

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fishermen, who were disputing as they sat in a schooner as to the proper way of cooking a Sturgeon and Perch combined. ‘Both tried! One succeeded in making a delightful dish that would have gladdened the heart of any old French “bon vivant.” The other failed. The successful one enthusiastically of‘fered to teach his friend, and as the latter was following the directions implicitly, and the finishing touches were being given to the dish, the teacher, seeing that the critical and important moment had come when the fish must be taken from the fire, or it would be spoiled if it cooked a moment longer, cried out, bringing down his hand emphatically: “Et quand ca commence a bouillir—Baisse!” Hence the name “Bouillabaisse,” which was given to the dish from that moment. From all portions of Europe people go to Marseilles to eat a “‘Bouillabaisse” on the seashore.

The Creole Bouillabaisse, with the modifications and improvements that early ingenuity suggested, is a dish that was the standing offering in the olden days to every distinguished Parisian or foreigner that visited New Orleans. Its reputation is sustained by the Creole cuisiniéres of our own day. It is made as follows: First cut off the head of the Red Snapper and boil it in about two quarts of water, so as to make a fish stock. Put one sliced onion and a herb bouquet consisting of thyme, bay leaf and parsley, into the water. When reduced to one pint, take out the head of the fish and the herb bouquet and strain the water and set it aside for use later on.

Take six slices of Redfish and six slices of Red Snapper of equal sizes and rub well with salt and pepper. Mince three sprigs of thyme, three sprigs of parsley, three bay leaves and three cloves of garlic, very, very fine, and take six allspice and grind them very fine, and mix thoroughly with the minced herbs and garlic. Then take each slice of fish and rub well with this mixture till every portion is permeated by the herbs, spice and garlic. They must be, as it were, soaked into the flesh, if you would achieve the success of this dish. Take two tablespoonfuls of fine olive oil and put it into a very large pan, so big that each slice of the fish may be put in without one piece overlapping the other. Chop two onions very fine and add them to the heating oil. Lay the fish, slice by slice, in the pan and cover, and let them ‘“‘étouffer,” or smother for about ten minutes, turning once over so that each side may cook partly. Then take the fish out of the pan and set the slices in a dish. Add a half can of tomatoes, or six large, fresh tomatoes sliced fine, and let them boil well. ‘Then add half a lemon, cut in very thin slices, and pour over a pint of the liquor in which the head of the snapPer was boiled. Season well to taste with salt, pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Let it boil until very strong and till reduced almost one-half; then lay the fish, slice by slice, apart one from the other, in the pan, and let boil five minutes. In the meantime have Prepared one good pinch of saffron, chopped very fine. Set it in a small, deep dish and add a little of the sauce in which the fish fs boiling to dissolve well. When well melted, and when the fish has been just five minutes in the pan, spread the saffron over the top of the fish. Take out of the pan, lay each slice on, toast, which has been fried in butter; pour the sauce over and serve hot immediately. You will have a dish that Lucullus would have envied.

Boiled Redfish or Boiled Red Snapper Poisson Rouge ow Red Snapper Boutlli A 3-pound Redfish or Red Snapper. 1 Sliced Onion.

3 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram. 1 Tablespoonful of French Vinegar. A Hollandaise Sauce.

Wash and thoroughly clean the fish, and then lay on a pan and open the flesh on either side by making the letter “S” with the knife. This is done to prevent the fish from puffing out or drawing up, and to insure thorough cooking and a perfect shape afterwards. Then tie the fish well with cord or twine, wrapping it around the body. Never encase a boiled fish in a cloth; put the fish in a deep. saucepan and add boiling water sufficient for the fish to swim in it. Throw in a tablespoonful of spice (well mashed), a sliced onion, three bay ~ leaves, a sprig of thyme and sweet marjoram, a sprig of parsley (all chopped very fine), a tablespoonful

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ES of French vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover well and let it boil for ten minutes. After ten minutes, the fish is cooked. Prepare a “Cream Sauce” (see recipe), and serve immediately.

Baked Red Snapper Red Snapper @ la Créole A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Pounds in Weight.

2 Dozen Oysters. 2 Dozen Boiled 1 Dozen Boiled Crawfish.

2 Large Onions. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 1 Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 3 Large Tomatoes. % Can of Mush2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allapice. 3 Cloves, Clean and wash the Red Snapper thoroughly. Make a cut in the shape of the letter “S’” on the back and stuff this with spice, thyme, clove and bay leaf, chopped fine. Rub thoroughly inside and out with salt and pepper. Make a good stuffing by taking one dozen oysters, one cup of stale bread crumbs, wet and squeezed of ali water, one large onion chopped fine, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper. Mix well and fry in a pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Stuff the body of the fish and sew up with soft thread. Lard well—that is, rub thoroughly with lard—and place in the oven. Pour over immediately a pint of warm water, and let the fish bake well. In the meantime prepare the following sauce: Take one large tablespoonful of butter, one large chopped onion, one sprig of thyme, one bay leaf. Brown the onion and butter, being careful not to burn, and put in three tomatoes; add the chopped herbs; brown and add a pint of oyster water which has been heated by blanching the oysters. (Blanching means to place the oysters on the fire in their own water and heat thoroughly without boiling.) Season the sauce with pepper and salt to taste. Have ready in another dish one dozen parboiled or blanched oysters and two dozen boiled shrimp. Put the fish in the dish in which it is to be served; garnish with the oysters and shrimp, placing them over the fish, and add about a half can of boiled mushrooms. Have also ready a dozen nicely boiled crawfish. Garnish the fish with these, Placing them all around it in the dish in which it is to be served. Pour the sauce over all and set in the oven and bake a few minutes longer and serve hot.

A Simple Every-day Recipe for Baking Red Snapper.

Red Snapper au Gratin 1 Fine 3_ pound Red Snapper. 1 Large Onion. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. % Teacup of Water. Salt and Pepper. Select a fine, large fish, clean and ‘wash thoroughly. Make a dressing by taking one cup of stale bread, wet and squeezed of all water; one large onion and three sprigs of parsley. Chop the onions and parsley fine and mix with the bread crumbs and fry in a spoonful of butter, seasoning well with salt and pepper. Stuff the fish and sew up with a soft thread. Then rub the fish thoroughly with salt and pepper and butter. Put small pieces of butter all over the fish and add a few pieces on the bottom of the baking pan. Pour in water to the depth of two inches, cover the pan and bake about an hour and a half.

Red Snapper & la Chambord. A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Pounds in Weight.

2 Dozen Oysters. % Can Mushrooms. 3 Large Tomatoes. 2 Large Onions. 1 Cup of Stale Bread.

2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. Clean and wash the Red Snapper carefully. Cut a space six inches square on the surface of the upper side of the fish, and carefully remove the skin within the enclosed space. Then lard this space closely with very fine larding needles, and fill in with spice, thyme, clove and bay leaf, all minced very fine. Rub thoroughly inside and outside with salt. Make a good stuffing by taking one dozen oysters, one cup of stale bread crumbs, wet and squeezed of all water; one large onion, chopped fine; a half tablespoonful of salt and black pepper to taste. Mix well and fry in a pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Stuff the body of the fish and sew up with soft thread. Lard well, and, after rubbing thoroughly with the lard, place in the oven, Pour over immediately one cup of warm water and let the fish bake well. In the meantime pre-

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eee ne a eEE EEE Sanaa pare the following sauce: Take one large tablespoonful of. butter, one large chopped onion, one sprig of thyme, one of bay leaf. Brown the onion and butter, being careful not to burn, and put in three large tomatoes. Add the chopped herbs, brown and add the pint of oyster water, which has been heated with blanching the oysters. (Blanching means to place the oysters on the fire in their own water and heat thoroughly without boiling.) Season the sauce with pepper and salt to taste. Put the fish in the dish in which it is to be served, and garnish with the oysters, placing them over the fish and mingling between about a half can of boiled mushrooms. After garnishing the fish nicely, pour the sauce over all and set in the oven a few minutes longer and Red Snapper With Tomato Sauce. Red Snapper @ la Sauce Tomate A Fine Red Snapper, 3 Pounds in Weight.

12 Large Tomatoes or a Can. 2 Bay’Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. % Inch of Garlic or 1 Clove. 1 Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. 1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter, or Olive Oil.

Salt and Red Pepper.

Prepare the fish, following the directions given in the recipe for Red Snapper a la Creole to the point of larding thoroughly. Pour one cup of warm water over the fish. When the fish is done, put one tablespoonful of olive oil or one large tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and one large chopped onion and brown; add one tablespoonful of flour and let the same brown. Then take the sliced and chopped fresh tomatoes, or strain @ can of tomatoes in lieu of the former, and add to the sauce. Add a half can of mushrooms chopped fine. Place in the sauce the bouquet of sweet herbs, thyme, bay leaf, and add an inch of garlic, minced very fine. Season with red pepper only. Pour this sauce over the baked fish after placing it in the dish in which it is to be served; set in the oven a few minutes and bring to the table hot. ' Redfish, Sheepshead and Grouper may also be cooked according to this -leaf, chopped fine.

A Simple Way of Baking Redfish. Poisson Rouge au Gratin 6 Slices of Redfish or a Fish Weighing 3 Pounds.

2 Large Onions. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. A Hollandaise Sauce.

Clean the outer edges well of the fins; wash and then rub the fish well with salt and pepper. Prepare some chopped onion and parsley and lay in a deep baking pan. Place a layer of fish over this and then a layer of small lumps of butter and chopped parsley and onion. Place over this another layer of fish. Cover with another layer of chopped parsley, onions and butter, and place in the oven to bake. Bake about an hour, basting frequently, and serve with a Hollandaise Baked Grouper.

Grouper au Gratin A Fine Grouper (weight 3 pounds). < Dozen Oysters. 2 Dozen Boiled 1 Dozen Boiled Crawtish.

2 Large Onions, 2 Tablespoonfuls of 1 Cup of Stale Bread.

2 Large Tomatoes. % Can of Mush2 Bay Leaves. 6 Allspice. 3 Cloves. Clean and wash the Grouper thoroughly. Make a cut in the shape of the letter “S” on the back and stuff this with spice, thyme, clove.and bay Rub thoroughly inside and out with salt and pepper. Make a good stuffing by taking one dozen oysters, one cup of stale bread crumbs, wet and squeezed of all water, one large onion, chopped fine, a half teaspoonful of salt and a little black pepper. Mix well and fry in a pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Stuff the body of the fish and sew up with soft thread. Lard well—that is, rub thoroughly with lard—and place in the oven. Pour over immediately a cup of warm water, and let the fish bake well. In the meantime prepare the following sauce, & la Chambord: Take one large tablespoonful of butter, one large chopped onion. one sprig of thyme, one bay leaf. Brown the onion and butter, being careful not to burn, and put in three large tomatoes; add the chopped herbs: brown and add a pint of oyster water,

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ee —————————_—_—___——_____.... eee 38 ‘ -_-_-_-eoeooOoo Cr ee which has been heated by blanching the oysters. (Blanching means to Place the oysters on the fire in their own water and heat thoroughly without boiling.) Season the sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Have ready in another dish one dozen parboiled or blanched oysters and two dozen boiled shrimp. Put the fish in the dish in which it is to be served, garnish with the oysters and shrimp, Placing them over the fish, and mingle between about a half can of boiled mushrooms. Have also ready a dozen nicely boiled crawfish. Garnish the fish with these, placing them al! around it in the dish in which it is to be served. Pour the sauce over all and set in the oven and bake a few minutes longer and serve hot. Where economy is desired Grouper may be boiled or baked according to the more simple methods given above for cooking Red Snapper. (See recipes “Boiled Red Snapper” and “Red Snapper au Gratin.”) FLOUNDER.

Kole The Creoles gave to the Flounder, one of the finest fish found in the waters of the Mexican Gulf, the French name “Sole,” because while the fish was somewhat different in size and shape, they found that the meat of the Flounder was identically the same as that of the “Sole” found in the waters of the Mediterranean sea. Quick to discover and appreciate, they applied to the Flounder the name “Sole,” and adapted it to the French modes of cooking the latter fish, especially applying to it the famous old French recipe “Sole & la Orly.” Otherwise in New Orleans the Flounder is always either fried and served with a sauce “a la Tartare,” or baked “a la Nouvelle Orleans,” or “a la Normande,” or served with a sauce as in Baked Sheepshead. (See recipe “Baked Sheepshead,” or “Casburgot au Gratin.”) Flounder a la Orly.

Filets de Sole @ la Orly 6 Filets of Flounder. A Cup of Milk. 1 Egg. Bread Crumbs, A Tomato Have the fish dealer cut the Flounder in filets and trim, neatly removing all the bones. Beat an egg with milk. and dip in the slices of fish. Roll in bread crumbs and fry in butter. Serve with parsley garnish, with a Tomato Sauce. (See recipe.) Flounders a la Tartare.

Soles Frites @ la Tartare 3 Pounds of Flounders. 3 Eggs. A Bunch of Parsley. 1 Sliced Lemon. A Sauce & la Tartare.

Clean and trim the Flounders. Beat well two or three raw eggs. Have ready a frying pan, with eight or ten tablespoonfuls of olive oil. Place over the fire. When well heated, dip the fish into the eggs, roll well and place in the frying pan. Cook for about five minutes, turn on the other side, and cook about the same period. Then drain by placing on a heated brown Paper. Garnish a dish with a bed of fried parsley, lay the Flounders upon it and garnish with sliced lemon. “Serve with Sauce & la Tartare. (See Flounder & la Normande Bole @ la Normande A_3-pound Flounder. 8 Shallots. 3 Bay Leaves. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Cups of Bouillon or Water. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Can of A Dash of Cayenne. Croutons Cut in Dice Shape.

Cut open the Flounder down the back. Dig inside under bone to right and left, without breaking the meat. Chop the bay leaves, thyme and clove of garlic very, very fine and mix with a half teaspoonful salt and a half teaspoonful of black pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Rub the Flounder all over on the inside and under the cutting and outside with this preparation, seasoning thoroughly. Chop the shallots, green and white, very fine. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a flat saucepan or stewing dish, and put the shallots with the butter. Lay the Flounder on top of the shallots and butter, and let it cook slowly on a slow fire for about ten minutes. Then turn on the other side and cook ten minutes longer. In the meantime take another saucepan and put into {it one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour. Dissolve this imu ediately

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eee ed with two cups of bouillon or water so that the sauce will be white. Let it cook about five minutes, and then and one can of mushrooms. Let all cook ten minutes longer, and then take the Flounder out of the saucepan in which it has been cooking and lay on a flat dish; then mix the sauce in which it has been cooking with the mushroom sauce. Taste the sauce and add salt, pepper and Cayenne, according to taste. Pour this sauce over the fish, around which you will have placed Crodtons cut as dice and fried and then cover the fish, and put it to bake in the oven for fifteen minutes. Serve hot in the dish in which it was Fiounders a la Nouvelle Orleans Bole a la Nouvelle Orleans A 3-pound Flounder.

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 6 Allspice. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil.

1 Can of Mushrooms. Croutons. Select a fine, fresh Flounder, parboil, by scalding well after it has been put in butter and salt, and set to bake in an oven. When it is two-thirds cooked, take off and pour over a cream sauce made of two tablespoonfuls of flour, one tablespoon of butter, spice, thyme, parsley, sweet basil and bay leaf, a can of mushrooms, all chopped fine, and cook about five minutes. After.pouring this over the fish, slit open in scores on top, put back in the oven and let it bake till done, which will be about fifteen minutes. Prepare Crofitons, or crusts of bread cut in diamond shape, fry these in butter and use as a garnish for the fish.

Baked Flounder Bole au Gratin A 3-pound Flounder. 1 Large Onion. 2 Tablespoons of Butter.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 6 Fresh Tomatoes.

2 Dozen Lake Shrimp.

Crackers, Dry Toast.

Cut in Dice Shape.

Clean and wash the fish; place on a platter; chop one large onion fine, rub the fish first with salt and black pepper, then take a large and deep kitchen pan, place within a_ tablespoonful of butter, the chopped onion, bay leaf and thyme. Place the fish on top of this and pour over a half cup of warm water. Cover with another close pan and put the whole in the top of the oven. Bake from the bottom. When it begins to boil from below, turn the fish over carefully without breaking, and let it bake on the other side. Put into a saucepan a very large tablespoonful of butter and mix thoroughly with two tablespoonfuls of flour. Let it brown without burning, and then add six fresh tomatoes, skinned and chopped fine, or a half can. Add two dozen Lake Shrimp that have been cleaned well, and scalded, a half can of mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste. Let all cook for about five minutes and then water with thé gravy in which the fish is cooking. Mix well and cover the fish with it. Parboil one dozen oysters, and when the fish is cooked, set it in the dish in which it is to be served and place the oysters all around it on small slices of dry toast. Cover the fish alternately with the shrimp and oysters as a garnish over and around it. Mash two crackers into crumbs and sprinkle over it; also some finely chopped parsley. Place some bits of butter over the fish; set the dish in the oven, and bake with a quick fire until brown. Serve immediately. POMPANO Pompano is the crowning glory of the fish of the New Orleans market. It is peculiar to the waters of the Gulf of Mexico, Mississippi Sound and the Louisiana Grand Isle shore. The word Pompano is derived from the Spanish “Pampano,” signifying a peculiar greenish-tinted plant, and the name “Pompano” was given to the fish by the early Spanish fishermen on account of the delicate greenish color which distinguishes it. Nothing to be compared with the Pompano" exists in the Northern, Eastern or Western waters, and no. atranger leaves New Orleans without having tasted once of this delightful fish. The New Orleans Pompano has a worldwide fame. The Pompano used to come in the early spring and remain but a few weeks, hence the first fish that appeared in the French Market were eagerly sought after as a great

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luxury. Pompano are more plentiful now and are to be found in the market almost all the year round. Pompano a la Maitre d’Hotel A Fine Pompano, or Small Ones in Weight to Equal Three Pounds. A Tablespoonful of Olive Oil. A Sliced Lemon. Parsley to Garnish. Sauce a la Maitre d’Hotel. There is only one way to cook PomPano and that is to broil it and serve with a Sauce & la Maitre d’Hotel. To broil the Pompano split the fish in the middle of the back if the fish is large; if small, broil whole. Season well by rubbing with salt and pepper, mixed with a little sweet ofl. Put the Pompano on the broiler and see that it is browned well on both sides, using always the double wire broiler. When done, place in a heated dish (heat by placing in a bain-marie or hot water bath and dry thoroughly). Butter the fish nicely and squeeze the juice of a lemon over it. Garnish with parsley and sliced lemon, and serve with a Sauce & la Maitre d’Hotel. (See recipe.) You will have a dish that a king might envy.

SPANISH MACKEREL Maquereau Espagnol Spanish Mackerel is another delicate and delicious fish, only to be found in the waters of the Gulf of Mexico. The Gulf of Mexico was, in early Creole days, a part of the vast expanse known as “The Waters of the Spanish Main.” The early Spanish fishermen found here a fish resembling the mackerel, but of a dainty delicacy of flavor far superior to any mackerel yet known to epicures, “and they gave to it the name “Spanish Mackerel.” It stands on an equal footing with the Pompano in the estimation of epicures. The Spanish Mackerel should always be broiled. It is a splendid breakfast dish and a famous entree at dinners.

Broiled Spanish Mackerel Maquereau Espagnol Grillee A Spanish Mackerel of 3 Pounds. 1 Tablespoontul of Olive Oil. The Juice of 1 Lemon, 1 Sliced Lemon. Sauce A la Maitre d’Hotel. Prepare in the same manner as the Pompano, serving whole. Where the fish is large, split downwards, in the middle of the back, and broil in the same manner as the Pompano, and place on a dish garnished with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve with a Sauce a la Maitre d’Hotel. (See recipe.) These are special recipes, used only in broiling Pompano and Spanish Mackerel.

BLUEFISH Le Poisson Bleu A Fine Bluefish, or Fish in Quantity to Equal 3 Pounds.

1 Sliced Lemon. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Sauce a la Maitre d’Hotel. The Bluefish is a splendid fish of the salt-water variety and much sought after. It should always be broiled. Split the fish in the middle of the back if the fish is large; if small, broil whole. Season well by rubbing with salt and pepper, mixed with a little sweet oil. Put the fish on the broiler and see that it is browned well on both sides, using always the double wire broiler. When done, place in a heated dish (heat by placing in a bain marie or hot-water bath and dry thoroughly). Butter the fish nicely and squeeze the juice of a lemon over it. Garnish with parsley and sliced lemon and serve with a Sauce & la Maitre da’Hotel. (See recipe.) TROUT De la Trutte.

Of fine and delicate flavor, the Green Trout and Speckled. Trout are great favorites in the New Orleans cuisines.. Trout is especially recommended as a breakfast dish. It may be broiled or boiled. Tenderloin Trout cut into filets, or cutlets, is also fried and makes a most palatable dish. The Salt-Water and Fresh-Water Trout, both are excellent. Boiled Green Trout Truite Verte Boutllie 6 Medium-Sized Trout, or 3 Large Ones. A Kettle of Boiling Water. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Onion. A Clove of Garlic (if desired). 10 Cloves. 2 Dozen Allspice..

A Seedless Red Pepper Pod. A Bit of Lemon Peel.

Parsley and Lemon to Garnish. Select fine fresh Trout. Clean and wash the fish thoroughly. Make a small letter “S" with knife on the the fish so as to secure it. Never

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wrap or tie in a cloth. Have ready a kettle of boiling water and throw in a sprig of onion, thyme and bay leaf, eight or ten cloves, about two dozen allspice, all mashed fine; a bit of lemon peel and a red pepper pod. When the water has boiled long enough to have extracted the flavor of these ingredients, drop the fish in carefully, so as to avoid breaking. Let it boil about ten minutes and then take out carefully. Put into a strainer and drain quickly. Place on a platter on a bed of parsley, with chopped parsley thrown over, and garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. Serve with a drawn-butter Hollandaise Sauce or Sauce Genoise (See recipe.) If the flavor of the spices is not desired the fish may be boiled simply in the salt and pepper water, with sprigs of The Creoles add a clove of garlic to the boiling water, but this is according to taste.

Broiled Green Trout Truite Verte Grilléc 6 Medium-Sized Trout, or 3 Large Ones. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Juice of 1 1 Sliced Lemon and Parsley to Garnish, Follow implicitly the directions given under the heading ‘General Rule for Broiling Fish.” (See recipe.) Clean the fish without cutting off the head or tail. Broil whole over a clear, moderate fire. Before placing on the. broiler rub the fish well with salt and pepper mixed in a little sweet oil or a little butter. If the fish is small, broil on a quick, clear fire; if large, as mentioned above, the fire must be moderate, or the outside of the fish will be charred before the inside is done. When the fish is done through and through, which can easily be determined by the flesh parting easily from the bone, remove the gridiron from the fire and loosen the fish from the broiler with a knife, being careful not to break the flesh. Then place the hot dish over the fish. and, with a dexterous movement, turn the two back again, thus separating the gridiron from the fish and placing the latter in the dish. Butter well, season with a little pepper and salt, if deemed necessary, and pour over a tablespoon-. ful of chopped parsley and lemon juice. Serve with garnishes of parsley and sliced lemon.

Speckled Trout Truttes Grillées 6 Filets of Speckled Trout. Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. The Speckled Trout is usually served in tenderloin steaks or filets. Skin and cut the fish, after cleaning, into filets or square pieces, slicing across the back. Remove all the bones and rub ‘well with pepper and salt, and a'‘little sweet oil mixed with the pepper and salt. Place on the gridiron or double broiler and broil carefully, turning the broiler frequently to prevent the fish being charred before it is done. When nicely browned, place on a bed of parsley and garnish with sliced lemon. Serve with Sauce & la Tartare. Fried Speckled Trout.

Truite Frite 6 Filets of Speckled Trout. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Milk. 1 Onion. 4 Sprigs of Parsley. 2 Gills of Mustard.

% Pint of Mayonnaise Dressing. Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Skin the fish and clean thoroughly. Then cut the Trout into filets or steaks. Take the yolks of two eggs and a little milk and beat together. Add salt and pepper and soak the Trout well in this, rolling over and over. Then take it out of the pan and roll in cracker or bread crumbs. Pat the fish a little all over with your hands and then fry in the same manner as Croakers. Serve on a bed of fried parsley, with garnish of sliced lemon, with the following Sauce a la Tartare: Take one large onion and four or five sprigs of parsley and chop fine. Squeeze the juice out well and parboil, chopping fine and squeezing out the water. Prepare about onehalf pint of Mayonnaise Dressing (see recipe) and add about two gills of mustard. Mix well and add to the parsley and onion and juices. Serve the saace cold.

Cutlets of Fish Filets de Poisson 6 Tenderloin Trout Cutlets. 1 Cup of Milk.

Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. A Mayonnaise Sauce, or Sauce & la Tartare.

Cut the fish (Tenderloin Trout) into filets or square pieces; remove all the

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bones, dip in milk which has been back; pass twine around the body of freely salted and peppered, and roil in flour; drop into the well-heated lard so that the filets will swim and fry to a golden brown. When done, drain on brown paper and serve on a@ bed of fried parsley, with garnishes of parsley and sliced lemon. With these cutlets serve either a Mayonnaise Sauce, a Sauce & la Tartare or Tomato Sauce. (See recipes for sauces. ) PERCH 5 De la Perche The Perch is a fresh-water fish of delightful flavor. It should always be boiled or broiled.

Boiled Perch Perche Bouille 6 Fine Fresh Perch. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic (if desired). 10 Cloves.

2 Dozen Alispice. A Bit of Lemon Peel. 1 Red Pepper Pod, without the Seed. Parsley and Lemon to Garnish. Select fine, fresh Perch. Clean and wash the fish well. Make a small letter “S” with a knife on the back. Pass a piece of twine around the body, so as to secure it. Have ready a kettle of boiling water, and throw in a sprig of onion, thyme and bay leaf, the cloves and allspice, mashed fine, a bit of lemon peel and the red pepper pod. When the water has boiled long enough to have fully extracted the flavor of these ingredients, drop the fish in carefully, so as to avoid breaking. Let it boil ten minutes, and then take out carefully and drain quickly in a,strainer. Place ina dish on a bed of parsley, sprinkle chopped parsley over it and garnish with parsley and sliced lemon. The spices may be omitted if not agreeable, and the Perch may be simply boiled in the salt and pepper water with the sprigs of parsley thrown in. Serve with a Drawn-Butter Sauce or Shuce Genoise. (See recipes.) Broiled Perch Perche Grillée 6 Fine Perch. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 1 Sliced Lemon. Parsley to Garnish. Proceed in the same manner indicated under the heading ‘General Rules for Broiling Fish.” (See recipe.) If large, split the fish down the middle of the back, else broil whole. Serve with garnishes of parsley and sliced lemon. A row of radishes nicely dressed is often added to the garnish when it is made of lettuce leaves, and sliced, hard-boiled eggs.

Croakers Des Grognards 12 Small or Six Large Croakers. Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Croakers are a famous breakfast fish. They are most delicious when fried. To fry Croakers properly fill a small pan with milk, and add salt and pepper to taste. Boil the Croakera in the milk and then take out and roll in dry, sifted flour. Have ready a@ pan of grease that has been heated very hot without boiling. Drop in the Croakers and cook till brown. The fish must swim in the grease. Lift carefully out of the frying pan and serve on a bed of fried parsley, with garnishes of sliced lemon. Sacalait-Patassas These are delightfully flavored fish of the small variety found in the Louisiana waters. They are excellent either fried, as in recipe for Croakers, or broiled whole.

Fish Chowder Mélée Créole 2 Pounds of Fresh Fish, Preferably Redfish or Sheepshead.

3 Medium-sized Potatoes.

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme, Parsley and % Can of Tomatoes. % Cup of Milk. 1 Quart of Boiling Water.

2 Ounces of Salt Pork or Ham Chopped Very Fine.

Grated Oyster Crackers.

Salt, Cayenne and Black Pepper to Cut two pounds of fresh fish of any kind, preferably the Redfish or Sheepshead. Take three medium-sized Potatoes and one onion and cut into slices, Take two ounces of salt pork, wash well and chop very fine. Put the pork into a frying pan, and when it is hot add the sliced onion. Smother slightly, and add chopped thyme, parsley, bay leaf, one clove of garlic, very fine, and Cayenne and black pepper to taste. Let this simmer for

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about ten minutes longer. Pour over this one quart of boiling water, and add fish and half a can of tomatoes and the potatoes. Season to taste, and cover the pan and let the contents simmer for half an hour. A half cup of milk may be added, if desired. Take oyster crackers, place in a bowl and pour the chowder over and serve hot.

Fish Balls Boulcttes de Potasun The Remains of, Any Fish. 1.Large nion.

1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Egg. Bread Crumbs.

Take the remains of any fish, season well with chopped parsley, onions, thyme and Cayenne, and a touch of garlic if the flavor is liked. Then mince all well, adding a tablespoonful of butter and mix it with one-third bread crumbs, mashed well. Beat tho yolk and white of an egg and roll the balls, shaped in the form of a cake, in this. Pat with bread crumbs and fry in butter to a pale brown. ‘. Louisiana Eels De VAnguille Few of the American residents of New Orleans know the. possibilities of preparing a most delightful dish that lurks in the often-rejected eel. But the Creoles inherited. the taste of their French ancestors, who considered eels a delicacy, and have evolved from the traditional recipes of old France pleasing and various ways of serving this fish. The most generally used in households is called Eels en Matelote Or, More Familiarly, Matelote d’Anguille 2 Pounds of Eel, or a 2-Pound Fish. 1 Large On'on.

Pint of Button Onions. 1 Clove of 1 Pint of Oyster Water.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. Croutons to Garnish.

Matelote d’Anguille is a famous old Creole dish, The following is the old Creole recipe, and when once eaten after this mode of preparation, there is seldom a refusal to give the eel its due credit as a dish fit for the most fastidious gourmet.

Clean and skin the eel, using about two pounds. Cut in one-inch or twoinch pieces, as desired. Take one large onion and a half pint of button onions, or a clove or garlic, and chop fine. Make a roux with one tablespoonful of lard, adding, when hot, the chopped onions and parsley, and gradually adding, when these begin to brown, the two tablespoonfuls of flour. Pour in one cup of warm water and a can of mushrooms. Add a pint of oyster stock or oyster ‘water, and let cook awhile. Season to taste with Cayenne and salt, adding the bay leaf and thyme. When it boils, add the eels that have been thoroughly cleansed and placed in cool water and allowed to stand about fifteen minutes. When these are added to the matelote, let it simmer about an hour. Serve with fancy garnish of Croftons. Fried Eels Anguilles Frites A_2-Pound Eel. 2 Eggs.

Mashed Bread Crumbs.

Clean and skin the eel and place in boiling water and vinegar till thoroughly disgorged. Cut into lengths of two inches. Wipe dry. Beat two eggs well and add mashed bread crumbs. Roll the eel well in this preparation and fry in hot lard, following implicitly the directions given for frying, and remembering that the fish must always swim in the grease. Drain off all grease and serve on a bed of Eels a la Maitre d’Hétel Anguilles @ la Mattre d’Hotel 2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 6 Cloves.

1 Dozen Allspice.

1 Onion Chopped Fine.

A Sauce a la Tartare.

A Half Cup of Lemon Juice. Fried Potato Balls.

Cut and clean the eel as directed and boil about twenty minutes in salt and water, putting a great quantity of salt into the kettle, and adding the thyme, bay leaf, cloves, allspice, chopped onion, and garlic. Remove the eels after cooking twenty minutes and serve on a dish garnished with parsley and fried potato balls. Serve with a Sauce a la Maitre d’Hdtel (see recipe), only be careful to add about a half cup of lemon juice to the sauce.

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EE SSeS Broiled Eels / Anguilles Grillées 2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. A Drawn Butter Sauce or Sauce a la Tartare.

Clean and skin the eel as for frying. Cut in two-inch pieces and boil till disgorged. Then roll in oil and Pepper and salt. Mix well and broil quickly over a clear fire. Serve with melted or Drawn Butter Sauce and Pickles, or a Sauce & la Tartare. Eels a la Poulette Anguilles @ la Poulctte 2 Pounds of Eel. 1 Cup of Hot Vinegar. 1-‘Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1_Onion Minced Very Fine.

The Yolks of 3 Eggs. Juice of 2. Lemons.

A Dash of Cayenne, Salt and Pepper to CroQtons and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Clean and skin the eels and put in a pot of boiling water. To be sure that they disgorge thoroughly add a cup of hot vinegar. After boiling fitteen minutes, take them out and cut into three-inch pieces. Take one tablespoonful of butter, put into a frying pan, and add the eels and one can of mushrooms poured over. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed smoothly in butter as the eels begin to fry. Add parsley, thyme, bay leaf, sweet basil, and an onion minced like the herbs, very fine. As the grease rises, floating, skim it off. Add a little Cayenne, and salt to taste, if necessary. When quite done, take the yolks of three eggs and mix thoroughly with the juice of two lemons. Take the eels off the fire and add the lemon juice and eggs and be careful not to set back on the fire when once these are added, or the eggs will! curdle. Place on a dish and garnish with Croftons and slices of lemon and Stingaree De la Rate The Stingaree is a fish that the Americans laugh at, not dreaming of the possibilities for a delicate dish that lurks within its wings. The Creoles, following in the wake of their French ancestors, who ate the Stingaree found in the waters of the Mediterranean, have evolved a different dish from the old French cuisiniéres, but one that holds its own even among the many distinguished French critics and gourmets who have visited our shores. It is called Raie au Beurre Noir.

Stingaree au Beurre Noir Rate au Beurre Noir A Fine Young Stingaree.

A Handful of Chopped Parsley. The Juice of 1 Lemon, or 1 Spoon of French Vinegar.

Take a fine young Stingaree and cut off the tail. Cut the wings from the body and throw away the rest of the fish, Throw the wings inte boiling water and parboil them. When boiled ten minutes, take them out of the water and then take all the skin off. The flesh will then become as white as snow. Put one tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan and let it brown without burning. When a nice coffee color, add a handful of chopped parsley and let it brown for a half minute. Then add the juice of ohe lemon or @ spoonful of French vinegar. Pour this over the fish, salt and pepper to taste, and serve hot. This is a dish much affected by Creole connoisseurs. Fried Stingaree Rate Frite A Fine Young Stingaree.

A Pint of French Vinegar.

A Handful of Farsley Minced Very ne.

A Teaspoon of Salt. Parsley to A Sauce Poivrade.

Prepare the Stingaree wings as directed in the above recipe. Cut them into square pieces of about three inches and let these soak in the vinegar which has been charged with the salt and minced parsley. Then roll in egg and bread crumbs and fry in boiling lard. Drain and serve on a bed of fried parsley with the Sauce Poivrade. (See recipe.) Stingaree With Caper Sauce Rate Sauce aug Capres A Fine Young Stingaree. A Caper Salt and Boiling Water.

Cut off the tail of the Stingaree. Cut off the wings, and throw the rest of the fish away. Throw the wings into boiling water charged with salt, and Parboill them for fifteen or twenty minutes. Then take them out of the

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water and skin thoroughly. Place in a heated dish and pour over a Caper Stingarettes Rattone This name is given to the little Stingarees. They are prepared just like the larger ones, the wings only being used. These are soaked in vinegar and a little salt, and then fried, after being rolled in bread crumbs and beaten egg. Place on a bed of fried parsley and serve.

ROE Oeufe de Poisson 1 Dozen Roe. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Lemon Sliced in Quarters.

Fish eggs are a great delicacy for dinner or breakfast table. The only eggs of fish that are used as an epicurean dish in New Orleans are the Roe of the Green Trout. These are exceedingly fine and delicate and are prepared after the following manner: First wash the eggs well and cut out fibers; butter a nice agate dish, and lay the Roe in the dish. Split them open, if large, and put a dot of butter on top of each. Sprinkle nicely with salt and pepper; place in the oven, bake a few minutes, and serve hot with lemon juice.

FROGS Des Grenoutlles Following the French custom, Frog legs are highly prized as a delicacy by the Creoles. Properly cooked, they are much more delicate than chicken and a great dish at dinners. It must be remembered that only the hind legs of the frogs are used, which must be first skinned and then thrown into boiling water for five minutes. Then take them out and put in cold water. When cold, take out of the water, and wipe dry with a clean towel. They are now ready for cooking.

Frogs & la Poulette Grenouilles @ la Poulette 6 Frog Legs..

% Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoon 1 Lemon. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Clean and skin the Frogs’ legs and cut them in small pieces of about an inch in size. Have ready a stew pot and put in the Frogs’ legs, with salt and pepper to taste, and half a lemon cut fine. Cover well with water and let it cook till the meat is tender. When cooked, drain and put the meat aside and make a sauce as follows: Take one tablespoonful of butter, two spoonfuls of flour; rub the flour smoothly and put in a sauce pan with the butter to melt. Add two cups of water and stir well. When it begins to boil well, add a half can of mushrooms. Season with salt and Cayenne. Then add the Frogs; season again to taste, and let this boil ten minutes. Beat the yolks of two raw eggs well, take the Frogs off the fire and stir in the yolks thoroughly, Add the juice of one-half lemon and serve. ~ Frogs, Creole Style Grenoutlles 3 la Oréole.

A Half Dozen Frogs. * 3 Eggs. A Cup of Sifted Bread Crumbs. 2 Gills of Milk or Fresh Cream. % of an Onion Chopped Very Fine. Take a half dozen Frogs, the more delicate the better. Cut off the hind legs and skin. Scald the legs about four minutes in boiling water, adding salt and lemon juice to the water. Then take out and dry with a clean towel. Beat the yolks and whites of two or three eggs, and mix in bread crumbs sifted. Have ready a pot of heated lard. Rub the Frog legs well with pepper and salt, dip in eggs and crumbs, and put into the pot of hot lard. Let them fry to a nice golden brown. Then make a sauce as follows: Take one tablespoonful of flour, one very large tablespoonful of butter, two gills of fresh milk or cream, and a half teaspoonful of salt. Put the butter in a saucepan over the fire. As “soon as it melts add the flour, which has been rubbed smoothly. Stir in gradually and when blended, add by degrees the boiling milk, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Then take a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a half of a chopped onion that has been well grated. Have ready two fresh eggs, beaten in a bowl. Warm the Frogs’ legs in the sauce, and when it begins to simmer stir the sauce briskly into the eggs. Set them back on a low fire for a minute or two, be-

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ing careful] not to let the sauce boil after the eggs have been added, else they will curdle the sauce. Serve hot. Frogs Sauté a la Creole Grenoutlles Bautécs & la Créole 6 Frog Legs.

6 Fresh Tomatoes or a Half Can. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 6 Green Sweet Peppers.

Cup of Consomme or Bolling Water. Wash the Frogs’ legs. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and add the legs. Let this brown well, being careful not to burn. After ten minutes of very slow cooking on a@ good fire, take three large onions and slice them and let them brown with the frogs. Then add one-half dozen nice large fresh tomatoes, or a half can; cover and let these brown. Cook very slowly, adding salt and pepper to taste, thyme, bay leaf, two cloves of garlic, all chopped very fino indeed. Let the mixture smother slowly over the fire, and, if possible, add one-half dozen green sweet peppers sliced very fine, being careful to extract all the seeds. Stir well and let it smother twenty minutes longer. stirring frequently to prevent burning. When well smothered—that is, when the Frogs’ legs are tender, which is easily ascertained by touching with a fork—add one cup of broth, if you have it, or consommé; if not, add one cup of boiling water, and let it cook again for half an hour very slowly and well covered. Serve hot. Fried Frogs Grenouilles Frites 6 Frog Legs.

% Cup of Lemon Juice and a Teaspoon of Salt.

2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sifted Bread Crumbs. Parsley, Sliced Lemon and Radishes to Scald the Frogs’ legs about three minutes in boiling ‘water and add a half cup of lemon juice and salt. Take out of the water and dry with @ clean towel. Season with salt and peppér and dip into a batter made of the well-beaten yolks and whites of two eggs and sifted bread crumbs. Pat the Frogs well and drop into the Jard, heated to a boiling point, and fry to a golden brown. Take them from the lard and drain well by placing on soft brown paper, heated. Place a snow-white, folded napkin in a dish, and lay the frogs upon it and garnish with fried parsley and sliced lemon, or place the Frogs in a bed of fried parsley laid in the dish and garnish with decorated radishes and sliced lemons.

Broiled Frogs Grenoutlles Grillécs 6 Frog Legs.

A Cup of Boiling Lemon Juice and Salt 1 Tablespoonful of Black Pepper. Lettuce Leaves and Parsley. or Sliced Lemons and Olives to Garnish. Clean and skin the Frogs; scalé well in boiling lemon juice and salt. Dry with a clean towel. Mix thoroughly a little black pepper, salt and olive oil, or butter melted, and rub the frogs thoroughly, rolling them over and over. Take out and put on a double wire broiler, being careful to turn frequently to prevent scorching. When done, place in a platter of delicate lettuce leaves or parsley and garnish with sliced lemons and olives.

Stewed Frogs Grenoutlles en Fricaseée 1 Dozen Frog Legs.

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. % Pint of % Pint of Oyster Water.

1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Sweet Marjoram..10 Allspice. 1 Clove.

The Yolk of an Egg. Croutons. Take the legs of one dozen Frogs and prepare the same as for frying. Take a tablespoonful of butter and put in a frying pan. When it begins to melt, add a tablespoonful of flour and stir constantly. When it begins to brown nicely, add a half pint of water and a pint of oyster water. Throw in the Frog legs as it begins to boil, and add salt and pepper, a little Cayenne, a sprig of thyme, bay leaf and sweet marjoram, eight or ten allspice, one clove. Let it simmer about fifteen minutes and take off the fire. Have ready the yolk of a beaten egg, and add, blending well, and serve immediately with garnishes of Crofitons, fried in a little butter, with oysters laid upon them.

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CHAPTER IX HELL FISHS ES Dea Crustacés Under this heading are classed the shell fish found in our Louisiana waters and those of the Mississippi Sound adjacent to New Orleans. Oysters, Shrimp, Crabs, and Crawfish, and the famous Green Turtle—these are the delightful varieties that are common articles of food among the people since they are to be had for the fishing.

That delicious bivalve, the Oyster, is perhaps the best known. Everyone who has visited New Orleans in winter has noted the exceptionally palatable oysters that are sold in every restaurant and by the numerous small vendors on almost every other corner or so throughout the lower section of the city. In the cafes, the hotels, the oyster saloons, they are served in every conceivable style known to eptcures and caterers, The oyster beds adjacent to New Orleans send to our markets the famous Bayou Cook and Barataria Oysters— eagerly sought and highly prized for exquisite flavor and unsurpassed in quality. The Mississipp! Sound is well-nigh stocked with oysters from one end to the other and millions of cans are shipped yearly from Biloxi and other points to every section of the United States. And so with our celebrated Lake and River Shrimp. No oysters are caught in the Mississippi Sound between May and September, because they are somewhat milky and considered unfit for use, and so strict are the laws governing the uses of dredge» in the Sound that a watchman accompanies each dredge-boat to see that no attempt is made to use the dredge in less than fourteen feet of water, the idea being that dredges shall not’ be used where the water is sufficiently shallow to admit of digging with tongs. Thus are preserved, in all their splendid flavor and almost inexhaustible supply, our oyster beds, and while the yearly increase in consumption of this delicious bivalve has tended to alarm scientists and to awaken an interest in the question as to whether the American oyster beds may not some day be depleted, scientists acquainted with the oyster beds on our Gulf coast say that for domestic purPoses there are sufficient oysters to supply the United States. The railroad facilities for handling oysters can hardly be improved, and fresh and fine and ready to be eaten, they arrive in our markets. The Bayou Cook and Barataria Oysters are with us all summer, and New Orleans is the acknowledged commercial center of the oyster trade on the Gulf coast. New Orleans opened the eyes of the United States to the possibilities of the oyster in every variety and form of cooking. Her chefs evolved the most dainty and palatable ways of preparing them, and while raw oysters remained practically an unknown quantity in aristocratic centers in other states of the Union, the Creoles, quick to discover and apply, placed the raw oyster on their table as one of the greatest delicacies that could be offered the most fastidious appetite. In the following recipes are given the most delightful manner of serving the bivalves:

OYSTERS Huttres 2 la Oréole There has already been given, in the chapter devoted to soups, the several ways that the Creoles have of preparing oysters in this style. (See Oyster Soups.) In a general treatment of oysters, it presents, first, that famous but exceptionally palatable manner in which oysters can be eaten at all hours, day or night, without overloading the stomach or causing the least symptom of indigestion, viz.:

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eS —s Raw Oysters on Half Shell Huttrea en Coquilles 6 Oysters to Each Plate. Cracked Ice. Maunsell White or Black Pepper, Cayenne and Vinegar.

Lemon, Sliced or Cut in Quarters. Allow six oysters to each person where the bivalve is used to begin the dinner or breakfast. Have the oys- * ters opened in their shell and remove one-half of the shell. Drain the water from the oyster shell, without disturbing the oyster, place in plates with cracked ice, and garnish with a quarter of sliced lemon in the center of each plate. Serve with black pepper and Cayenne, if desired, or the famous Maunsell White, sold in all New. Orleans oyster saloons. A half cup is given as “lagniappe” by the dealers to their customers.

Dainty rolls of fresh butter and oyster crackers are served with raw oysters, Oysters Served in a Block of Ice Huttres eur la Glace 6 Oysters to Each Person.

Block of Ice.

Black Pepper and Cayenne.

Sprigs of Parsley and Radishes to Lemon Cut in Quarters.

Have your dealer send a square block of ice of the size desired and make a hollow in the center of the block by placing a flat-iron on the top, scooping out with the iron the shape desired. Then place a folded napkin on a platter and stand the block of ice upon it. Pepper the oysters nicely with Cayenne and black Pepper, and place in the ice. Then take sprigs of parsley and decorate the platter, placing between decorated radishes, and alternate slices of lemon and serve the oysters with lemon cut in quarters. Smilax may be substituted for the parsley or mixed with it. The cavity should be square and deep, leaving walls of ice about two inches in thickness.

A Square Broiled Oysters Huttres sur le Grit 6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. Salt and Cayenne to Taste.

Melted Butter and Chopped Parsley. Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley to Allow six or eight oysters to each person. The oysters must be large and fat, else they will shrivel to nothing in cooking. Drain the oysters through a colander, lay them on a dish and wipe with a dry, clean towel. Melt butter and dip in the oysters, seasoned well with salt and Cayenne on both sides. Have ready the gridfron (use always the double wire broiler) and test the heat by dropping @ little water on it. If the water hisses, the broiler is quite ready. Place the broiler in a warm place— just over the oven will do. Butter and Place the oysters on it. Return to @ moderate fire. As soon as the oysters are browned on one side, turn on the other and brown. Have ready a heated dish and serve the oysters, pouring on them melted butter and chopped parsley (chopped very fme). Garnish with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon and serve immediately. Broiled Oysters on Toast Huitres sur Canapés 6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. Salt and Pepper to Taste.

6 or 8 Pieces of Buttered Toast or Milk Toast.

2 Tablespoontuls of Melted Butter. Broil the oysters according to the recipe given above. Have ready a heated dish; sprinkle the oysters with salt and pepper and pour over melted butter. Serve on small pieces of buttered toast, or milk toast. Sprinkle with finely-chopped parsley. Broiled Oysters With Sauce Huttres Grillées @ la Sauce Espagnole 1 Pint of Qyster Liquor to Every 2 spoonfuls of Sifted Flour. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. Chopped 6 or 8 Squares of Buttered Toast. Drain the oysters and allow about one pint of the oyster liquor to each two dozen oysters. Have ready a porcelaih-lined saucepan and put the liquor on to boil. As the scum rises skim it carefully. Put one tablespoonful of butter into a frying pan, and when it begins to heat, add gradually two tablespoonfuls of sifted flour. Mix well and brown. Pour over this the oyster liquor and stir constantly till it begins to boil, seasoning with salt and pepper (Cayenne) and parsley chopped very fine. Stand the sauce in a vessel in hot water (bain-marie) until wanted, and proceed to broil the

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nn) oysters in the same manner as in the recipe first given. Place squares of buttered toast in a dish, lay the oysters on top, pour over the sauce, an@ serve immediately.

Oysters en Brochettes Huttres en Brochettes 3 Dozen Large, Flat Oysters. Thin Slits of Bacon.

1 Tablespoonful of Minced Parsley. Sliced Lemon and Olives to Garnish. Have, ready a furnace with redhot coals; take fine sliced breakfast bacon and cut into thin slits about the size of the oyster. Drain three dozen large fat oysters; take a long skewer of silver or metal that is not dangerous, and string it first with a slit of bacon and then an oyster, alternating this until it is filled, the extreme ends terminating with the bacon. Then hold the oysters over the clear fire and broil until the edges begin to ruffle, when they are done. In the meantime prepare some drawn butter by placing about a tablespoonful in a cup before the fire to melt; place the oysters in a hot dish, alternating with slices of bacon, sprinkle with pepper and salt, and pour over the drawn butter mixed with about one tablespoonful of parsley, chopped fine; garnish with slices of lemons and whole olives, and serve. The oysters and bacon may be served on the skewers, if they are not charred or blackened; but the other is the far daintier method.

Oysters Broiled in Shells Huttres en Coquilles sur le Grit 3 Dozen Fine, Fat Oysters. 1 Tablespoonful of Finely Chopped 1 Bay Leaf. Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Sweet Basil. 2 Shallots.: 1 Tablespoonful of Butter, Grated Bread Crumbs.

Asparagus Tips and Sliced Lemon to Dozen Well Washed Oyster Shells. Take three dozen fine oysters; blanch in their own water and drain. Chop a tablespoonful of fine parsley, bay leaf and thyme, using a sprig each of the latter and a sprig of sweet basil. Cut up two shallots very fine and add. Place a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; add a little oyster juice sauté, or shake the oysters without making a bouillon. When two minutes have passed, take off the stove, place the oysters in the well washed shells, sprinkle over a little bread crumbs, and put on top of each a pinch of butter. Have ready the gridiron or broiler very hot; place the shells between the double broiler, set over the fire to broil for about four or five minutes, and serve with delicate garnishes of asparagus tips and sliced lemon, Oysters and Bacon Huttrea Bordées 3 Dozen Oysters. Thin Slices of Breakfast Bacon.

Mineed Parsley. Sauce Piquante. Wrap each oyster in a very thin slice of breakfast bacon. Lay on a broiler over a baking pan in a hot oven. Remove when the bacon is brown, Each must be fastened with a wooden toothpick. Serve with minced parsley and pepper sauce, or “Sauce Piquante. (See recipe.) Fried Oysters Huttres Sautées 6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. Finely Grated Bread Crumbs. to Garnish.

Boiling Lard.

Drain the oysters, allowing about six or eight to each person to be served. Salt and pepper and then roll oysters in bread crumbs, grated very fine. Drop in the frying pan of boiling lard, having sufficient lard to allow the oysters to swim in the grease. Remove when a golden brown and place on brown paper and drain. Serve on a platter garnished with parsley or on a bed of fried parsley. (See recipe for Fried Parsley.) Fried Oysters @ la Creole Huttres Frites @ la Créole 6 or 8 Oysters to Each _ Person. 1 Eggs. 1 Glass of Milk.

% Teaspoon of Salt. % Teaspoonful of Black Pepper.

Grated Cracker or Bread Crumbs. Butter Oil.

Sliced Lemon and Pickle to Garnish. Select the firmest and largest oysters allowing six or eight to each person, Drain in a colander and dry with a soft linen towel. Beat an egg thoroughly and mix with a glass of milk and a half teaspoonful of salt and pepper. Mash bread crumbs or crackers in another dish. Dip the

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oysters one by one in the milk and roll gently in the bread crumbs, patting softly with the hands, and drop into a deep frying pan, with sufficient lard or butter oil for the oyster to swim in it. In from three to five minutes the oysters will be done. The time given will allow them to fry to a nice golden brown, and it will not be necessary to turn them if the oil in the pan is deep enough. Take them out with a skimmer, being careful not to break, and drain on a piece of soft brown paper. Serve on a bed of fried parsley, with garnishes of sliced lemon and pickle. Bread crumbs are far preferable to crackers. Butter is often used in frying oysters, but the butter ofl is found by experience to be better than either lard or butter. Some also use cornmeal instead of the bread crumbs, but there is no comparison as to results, Stewed Oysters Huttres en Fricasste 4 Dozen Large Oysters.

spoonful of Butter.

1 Pint of Oyster Liquor.

1 Pint of Rich Cream or Milk. Take about four dozen large oysters, drain in a colander. Mix one tablespoonful of flour and one of butter together. Put one pint of oyster liquor on the fire and add the flour and butter blended. Have ready in another saucepan a pint of rich, hot cream. After five minutes, add this to the oyster liquor, always using a double-boiler, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Salt and pepper to taste. Let it boil up once and then add the oysters. After three minutes serve. This is a very delicate dish. TableOyster Sautées Huttree Sautées 6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. 3 Slices of Fat Bacon.

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Salt and 6 or 8 Squares of Buttered Toast. Olives, Pickles and Sliced Lemon to Drain the oysters well and dry with a towel. Sprinkle them with pepper and salt, and roll in a little flour. Place the bacon, cut into thin slices, in a frying pan, and let all the fat fry out. Remove the bacon from the pan and place in the oysters, covering the bottom. As they turn a golden brown on one side, turn over on the other. Serve on squares of buttered toast, with garnishes of olives, pickles and sliced lemon, Coddied Oysters Huttres Roties sur Canapés 6 or 8 Oysters to Each Person. 6 Slices of Bread.

% Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. A Dash of Cayenne.

2 Sprigs of Parsley Chopped Very Fine. 1 Bay Leaf Minced Fine.

3 Cloves. 1 Blade of Mace. 1 Pint of Oyster Liquor.

Toast five or six slices of bread to a nice brown and butter them on both sides. Drain the liquor from the oysters and put it in a saucepan. When hot, add a large lump of butter. Have ready a baking dish and place the toast within; lay the oysters on the toast, having seasoned well with salt, Cayenne pepper, chopped parsley, bay leaf, mace and cloves. Put the liquor of the oysters over the toast until it is well absorbed. Set it in an oven and bake for five or six minutes with a quick fire.

Deviled Oysters Huttres d la Diable 3 Dozen Oysters. 1 Tablespoonful of % Pint of Cream. The Yokes of 2 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Blade of Mace. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. Salt and Cayenne Sprigs of Parsley or Asparagus Tips and Sliced Lemon and Olives to Take three dozen fine, large oysters, drain and chop them into middling fine pieces. Rub together one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, very smoothly. Place in a double-boiler a half pint of cream, and, when it is coming to a boil, stir in the flour and butter. Have ready the yolks of two eggs well beaten, and, as soon as the milk bolls, take from the fire and add the eggs, one tablespoonful of parsley chopped fine, one bay leaf chopped fine, mace, and a sprig of finely-chopped thyme. Add salt and Cayenne to taste, and add the oysters. Take the deep shells of the oysters, which have been washed perfectly clean, and fill with this mixture; sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs; put a pinch of butter

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and set in the baking pan and The oven should be very and only five minutes are needed for the browning. Serve the oysters thus baked in their shells, and garnish the dish with sprigs of Parsley or asparagus tips, olives and sliced lemon.

on top, brown.

quick, Curricd Oysters Huttres au Kart spoonfuls of Flour.

1 Gill of Rich Cream or 2 Gills of Good % Teaspoonful of Curry Powder. A Pinch of Corn Starch.

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. Salt and Cayenne to Taste. The Oyster 1 Cup of Louisiana Rice Boiled 4 la Creole, for Border.

Take four dozen fine, large oysters and drain the oyster liquor into a saucepan, being careful to extract all pieces of shell, and set it to boil. Wipe the oysters dry with a clean towel. Put in another saucepan one tablespoonful of butter and let it melt; then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring constantly and _ rubbing smoothly; do not let it brown. Add about one gill of rich cream, or two gills of good milk, to the boiling oyster juice, and stir all this into the flour slowly, avoiding the formation of any lumps, and stirring constantly. Let this boil about two minutes. Take one-half teaspoonful of curry powder and a pinch of cornstarch or flour and rub smoothly with a few drops of cold milk. Stir this into the oyster juice; season & la Creole with Cayenne, salt, chopped thyme, etc., and, as it boils up, drop in the oysters; let them cook about three minutes and serve on a dish with a border of Louisiana rice, boiled so as to appear like snowflakes, the grains standing apart. Sprinkle chopped parsley over the oysters to form a garnish.

Oysters & la Poulette Huttres a la Poulette I Gill of Rich Cream or 2 Gills of Good Milk.

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Rich Cream.

Toasted and Buttered Crodtons. Sliced Lemon and Parsley Sprigs to Prepare as in the above recipe for Curried Oysters, omitting the curry powder. Having dropped the oysters into the boiling oyster juice, remove from the fire after cooking three minutes. Beat well the yolks of two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of rich cream, add to the oysters, and serve with toasted and buttered Croftons, garnish with sliced lemons and sprigs of Minved Oysters Huttrea en Hachis ' 4 Dozen Oysters. 2 Gills of Oyster Juice.

A Half Can of Mushrooms.

3 Yolks of Egs.

2 Gills of Rich Cream. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour.

Parsley and Chives and Thyme, chopped ine.

Scald the oysters in their own water. Drain and mince, but not too fine. Put into the saucepan a tablespoonful of butter, and, when melted, add the parsley (chopped fine), the herbs and the mushrooms. Then add the flour, which has been rubbed smoothly in a gill of oyster juice. Mix thoroughly, and then add the minced oysters, and stew gently until the sauce is absorbed and the mince forms a thick batter. Be very careful not to scorch. Remove from the fire and put in the yolks of the eggs, which have been beaten smoothly in the cream, Set it back on the fire and let it remain about one minute, and serve on large toasted and buttered Croftons, with garnish of lemon and parsley and olives. Baked Oysters Huttrea au Gratin 3 Dozen Fine, Large Oysters. Sauce Piquante. 3 Shallots. % Can of Minced Mushrooms. Oyster Juice.

Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf, Chopped Fine.

Boil the,oysters about two minutes in their own liquor, dropping them in the liquor as it comes to the boiling point. Pass them through a “Sauce Piquante,” rolling nicely. Mix the melted butter and the chopped parsley, thyme, etc., the shallots chopped very fine, and moisten well with a little oyster juice; chop the mushrooms fine and add. After it is reduced, having been stirred constantly, select the finest and largest shells of the oysters, which have been cleaned

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well, and place in each four or six oysters, pouring the sauce over each, filling nicely, in pyramidal shape; Place on each @ bit of butter, and set in the stove for about five minutes, or over a gridiron on a slow fire for about ten minutes. Serve in the shells, with garnish of parsley and lemons, sliced.

Scalloped Oysters Coguilics d’Huttree 4 Dozen Fine Oysters. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.

1 Blade of Mace. 4 Cloves. 1 Sprig of Thyme.

1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. % Cup of Rich Milk or Cream. % Cup of Oyster Liquor. Grated Bread Crumbs.

Select about four dozen fine oysters. Have ready a porcelain-lined baking dish, or any good dish that will not darken the oysters. Drain the oysters in a colander, strain the liquor to’ remove all pieces of shell and save it. Butter the baking dish and put in it a layer of oysters, well seasoned, a la Créole, with Cayenne, salt, chopped mace, cloves, thyme, parsley and bay leaf chopped very fine. Put on it a layer of bread crumbs, about a halfinch in thickness. Place here and there little dots of butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add another layer of seasoned oysters, and then another layer of bread crumbs, until the dish is full. Then mix a half cup of rich cream and milk and a half cup of the oyster liquor, and pour over the dish. Sprinkle the last layer with bread crumbs and dot gently with bits of butter. Place in a quick oven and bake about fifteen or twenty minutes, or until a nice brown, Oysters au Parmesan Huttres au Parmesan Grated Parmesan Cheese.

1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. 1 Gill of Cream.

Salt, Cayenne, 1 Bay Leaf. Brown the bread crumbs in a little butter, butter a shallow dish and strew it with bread crumbs. Drain the oysters and dry with a towel; season highly a la Créole; place them, one by one, on the bread crumbs; strew chopped parsley over them, and the grated cheese, using good judgment ‘oven, as to quantity. Sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs again, and pour over all a gill of cream. Place in the which should be very quick; let them remain about fifteen minutes till quite brown. Take out, pour on them some drawn butter, and serve with lemon garnish.

Roasted Oysters Huttres Rotis 3 Dozen Fine, Large, Fat Oysters. Buttered Toast.

Clean the oyster shells thoroughly, set them on the top of the stove or place in a baking pan until the shell is easily removed. Remove the flat outer shell, Butter the oyster in the deep shell and serve very hot with salt and pepper. In old Creole families roasting parties were often given and there was always a frolic in the kitchen, the belles and beaux vying with one another in roasting the delicious bivalve. As the shells open put in a ttle butter. The oysters were sent ‘to the table in their shelis; by a quick movement the outer shell was removed, and they were eaten with pepper sauce or pepper, salt and vinegar.

Oyster Pan Roast Huttres @ la Poéle Sliced Lemon and Parsley to Garnish. The largest and finest oysters are used for this purpose. Drain the oysters, heat a deep frying pan, drop in a generous lump of butter. When it melts, add the oysters, covering and shaking the pan constantly over a hot ~ fire. Have ready a dish well buttered and nicely garnished with parsley and lemon slices. When the oysters are brown, turn quickly into the dish and add salt and pepper and melted butter, into which you have dropped finely-chopped parsley, and serve hot. Steamed Oysters Huttres @ la Vapeur This is a favorite way of eating oysters in New Orleans. Have ready a pot of boiling water. Drain the oysters in their shells and put them in

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estes a shallow tin pan, with a perforated bottom. Cover and put them over the steamer, let stand about ten minutes; put them into a hot dish, season with pepper and Cayenne and serve with drawn butter sauce. If you have no perforated tin, steam the oysters in their shclls. Wash the shells thoroughly on the outside, place the oysters in the steamer and cover, letting them remain about fifteen minutes over the boiling water, or until the shells open easily, then serve. A steamer may be improvised by using a colander and a closely fitting pot lid. The steamed oyster must-be eaten when very hot to be appreciated in all its flavor.

\ Oyster Fritters Beignvts d’iiuttres 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Milk.

2 Cups of Flour. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. % Teaspoonful of Good Baking Powder. Parsley or Asparagus Tips to Take two dozen large oysters, drain in a colander and remove any pieces of shell or grit that may adhere. Chop the oysters fine. Break two eggs and beat until very light. Then add a cup of milk and rub in smoothly two cupfuls of flour and one teaspoonful of salt. Beat until perfectly smooth. Add one-half teaspoonful of good baking powder. Mix well and then drop in the oysters, which ‘must be dry. Next drop into boiling lard or oil. When browned on one side turn on the other, being careful not to use a fork or to pierce them, as that would render the oysters and fritters heavy. Use a skimmer in removing from the pot, and drain on brown paper. Serve on a dish in which you have placed a folded napkin and garnish with sprigs of parsley and asparagus tips. Oyster Croquettes Croquettes d’Huitres 2 Dozen Oysters. 1 Gill of Rich Cream. 1 Gill of Oyster Liquor.

The Yolks of Two Eggs.

A Dash of Cayenne. A Well-Beaten Egg.

Grated Bread crumbs. Boiling Lard. Cook two dozen large oysters in all their own liquor. Stir constantly and boil for about five minutes. Remove from the fire. Take out the oysters and chop very fine: Put them into a saucepan with about one gill each of rich cream and oyster liquor. Rub together two tablespoonfuls of flour and one of butter. Add this and the oysters to the boiling milk and cream. Stir until it thickens and boils. Then add the yolks of two eggs. Stir this over the fire for about one minute, and then take “off and add parsley, chopped fine, salt and Cayenne. Mix well and place in a dish to cool. Then roll in a beaten egg to bind it and form in cylinders of about a finger in length. Roll in bread crumbs mashed fine, and fry in boiling lard or oil. Oyster Croquettes & la Creole Croqueties d’Hultres @ la Créole 38 Dozen Fine Oysters.

1 Cup of the White Meat of a Chicken Minced.

6 Finely Chopped Mushrooms. 1 Teaspoonful of Onion Juice. % Cup of Cream.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. Salt and Cayenne Pepper to Taste. Boil the oysters about three minutes in their own liquor. Drain’ and chop the oysters fine. Take a half cup of the liquor in which the oysters have been boiled, set it on the fire and add the chopped oysters. Then add the half cup of cream, the chopped mushrooms, and the minced chicken. Stir thoroughly into this boiling mixture the butter and flour which have been rubbed smoothly. Add the chopped parsley, onion juice, salt and Cayenne and mix well. Then add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Let it cook about two minutes and turn it out into a dish to cool. When cold, roll into cylinders about two inches in length and one inch in diameter. Pass through bread crumbs and fry in boiling lard. Serve immediately on a bed of fried parsley.

Oyster Balls Boulettes d@Huitres 2 Pints of Chopped Oysters. 2 Pints Chopped Sausage Meat. 1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumbs. To every pint of chopped oysters add one pint of chopped sausage meat. Roll in bread crumbs; season highly. Add one egg and roll in bread crumbs. Make into small cakes and fry in briling lard. Serve hot,

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— Oyster Patties Petites Bouchées d’Huttres 4 Dozen Oysters. % Can of Mushrooms, 1 Small Onion, Grated.

Pepper, Salt, Chopped Parsiey and Lemon Juice.

Prepare a puff paste (see recipe) and lay on the ice to cool. Boil the oysters in their own liquor. Drain, put the butter in the saucepan, and when it is heated, add the grated onion and rub in the flour until smooth. Add a gill of mushroom juice and pepper, salt and Cayenne to taste and the mushrooms chopped in quarters. Then add the oystérs and let all stew about five minutes, adding the lemon juice. A tablespoonful of cream will improve the oysters. If this is used, omit the lemon juice. Line the small tins with the puff Paste and put in each three or four oysters according to the size of the paste. Cover with the paste and bake in a quick oven about fifteen minutes. To make the open pf&tés so much used at luncheon and entertainments in New Orleans, cut the puff paste into round cakes. Those intended for the bottom crust should be about a little less than an eighth of an inch thick.’ Those intended for the upper layers should be a little thicker. Take a small biscuit cutter and remove a round paste from the center of these latter. This will leave a nice ring. Carefully place this upon the bottom crust, and then a second ring, ~ until the cavity is deep enough to hold several oysters. Lay the pieces that have been extracted into a pan with these and bake to a fine brown in a quick oven. Then take out and fill the cavities with the oysters prepared as above, fit‘on the tops very lightly. set in the oven a second or two and Oyster Pie Vol-au-Vent d’Huttree 8 Dozen Large, Fine Oysters. 6 Yolks of Eggs.

Spices, Thyme, Bay Leaf, -Parsley. 1 Slice of Grated Bread.

Take an earthen dish which will hold about three and a half pints and line the sides with rich pie.crust. (See recipe for Pie Crust.) Set in the stove and let it bake a few minutes. In the meantime take about one pint and a half of the oyster Nquor and put on the fire, after having drained well. Add the seasonings of chopped herbs and Cayenne. Rub a tablespoonful of flour into the butter and add to the liquor, stirring constantly. Mash the grated crumbs; add to this, and mix well. Chop the hard-boiled eggs fine. Then pour the oysters into the pan of pie crust, sprinkle some of the chopped eggs and grated bread crumbs over, and put a teaspoonful of butter in small bits here and there over all. Then roll out very fine and thin a layer of the pie crust. Place this over the preparation and ornament here and there, all around, with neat notches or designs, which can be easily formed with the end of a spoon or the prongs of a folk. Cut a hole in the center in the shape of the letter X. Set in a moderately quick oven and bake till brown. In the meantime, melt one tablespoonful of butter, add the remaining oyster liquor and season with pepper and salt. When it is about to come to a boil, add one-half cup of rich, hot cream or boiled milk and when the Pie is nearly brown, put a funnel into the opening in the center and pour in as much of the liquor as the pie will hold. Place a delicate garnish of pastry leaves over the whole and bake a minute or so longer. If there is any sauce left over, serve it with the pie.

Great care must be taken not to have the oysters over done. For this reason the upper crust is often baked Separately, as the bottom of the pie may be filled with the ingredients and the upper crust placed on later. Else the raw oysters are placed in layers in between the crusts. But they are liable to become too dry when used in this way.

Oyster Salad Huttres en Salade 4 Dozen Large Oysters. 2 Crisp Heads of Lettuce.

The Yolks of Three Eggs. % Teaspoonful of Mustard.

¥Y Teaspoontul of Salt.

Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Oyster Salad is a favorite lunch dish. Boil about four dozen large oysters in their own liquor, season with salt and pepper. Drain and set aside to cool. Take two crisp heads of lettuce leaves and arrange nicely in the salad bowl Turn the oysters

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aS into the center of the leaves and pour over them the following dressing: Take the yolks of three raw eggs, half @ teaspoonful of mustard, and a little salt; beat these together until they begin to thicken, and add gradually olive oil, as in making Mayonnaise, until it begins to thicken. Add a little vinegar to thin and serve with the oysters.

Pickled Oysters Huttres en Marinade 50 or 100 Large, Fine Oysters. 12 Blades of Mace.

1 Large Tablespoonful of Allspice. 1 Level Tablespoonful of Cloves. 1 Pepper. 2 Sliced Lemons. % Pint of White Vinegar.

% Dozen Pepper Corns.

Boil the oysters in their own liquor until the edges begin to ruffie. Then take a half pint of white wine vinegar and a half pint of the oyster water and set to boil, adding the blades of mace, cloves, allspice, pepper corns and a dash of Cayenne. Salt to taste. As soon as they come to a good boil, pour in the oysters. Care must be taken to have the oysters very cold, as they will make the pickles slimy otherwise. After adding the oysters to the boiling liquid, set it aside to cool and serve very cold. This is a delicious Creole luncheon dish. Oyster Loaf La Médtatrice Delicate French Loaves of Bread.. 2 Dozen Oysters to a Loaf. Take delicate French loaves of bread and cut off, lengthwise, the upper portion. Dig the crumbs out of the center of each piece, leaving the sides and bottom like a square box. Brush each corner of the box and the bottom with melted butter, and place in a quick oven to brown. Fill with broiled or creamed oysters. Cover with the bread lid and serve. CHAPTER X * SHELL FISH Continued Des Crustacés. This chapter embraces methods of cooking Shrimp, Crab, Crawfish and Turtle, according to the most approved rules of the Creole Cuisine. Des Chevrettes New Orleans is famous for the flavor of:the River and Lake Shrimp which abound in its markets. The River Shrimp is the more delicate of the two and is always eaten boiled as a preliminary to dinner or breakfast or luncheon. The Lake Shrimp, of larger size and firmer qualities, is used for cooking purposes, and is served in various ways. From the Mississippi Sound and the New Orleans shore Shrimp are sent canned to every part of the United States. In our markets they are sold fresh from the waters.

Boiled Shrimp Cherrcttes Boullies 100 Fine River Shrimp.

A Large Bunch of Celery and Celery Tops.

2 Dozen Allspice. 2 Blades of Mace. 1 Dozen _ Cloves.

4 Sprigs Each of Thyme, Parsley and 1 Red Pepper Pod.

Cayenne, Black Pepper, Salt, Parsley. Sprigs to Garnish.

Select fine, large River Shrimp for this purpose. Into a pot of water put a great quantity of salt, almost enough to make a brine. “Pepper” a great bunch of celery and celery tops, chopped fine; two dozen allspice, two blades of mace, one dozen cloves, mashed fine; thyme, parsley, bay leaf, chopped fine; Cayenne and a red pepper pod. When this has boiled so that all the flavor of the herbs have been thoroughly extracted, throw in the Shrimp. Let them boil twenty

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ern] minutes, then set the pot aside and let the Shrimp cool in their own water. Serve in a platter on a bed of cracked ice, and garnish with parsley sprigs. This dish is always served as @ preliminary to a meal. A great deal of salt is required in boiling, as the Shrimp absorb but little, and no after addition can quite give them the same taste as when boiled in the briny Stewed Shrimp.

Checretes @ la Créole 100 Fine Lake Shrimp. 1 Large Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Can of Tomatoes or 12 Fresh Ones. 4 Celery Stalks, 1 Clove of Garlic, 1 2 Bay Leaves. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Get about 100 large Lake Shrimp for this recipe. Boil the Shrimp first according to the recipe given above, and then pick off the shells, leaving the Shrimp whole. Chop fine one large onion and brown it with a tablespoonful of butter. Add a can of tomatoes or twelve large, ripe tomatoes. chopped fine, in their own liquor. Stir well and brown lightly. Then add three or four stalks of celery, a clove of garlic, a dash of Cayenne, a sprig of thyme, two bay leaves, all chopped finely and seasoned with salt to taste. After this has cooked ten minutes add the Shrimp. Let them cook ten minutes longer and serve. Never pour water into stewed Shrimp, as the tomato juice makes gravy enough. Fried Shrimp.

Ohevrettes Fritcs 100 Fine Lake Shrimp.

1 Cup of Milk. Grated Bread Crumbs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Cayenne.

Fried Parsley and Parsley Tips and Olives to Garnish.

Use Fine Lake Shrimp for this recipe. Boll first according to the recipe given for Boiled Shrimp. Then take off the fire, pick off shells and season well. Take a pan of milk, season well with salt and pepper. After dipping the Shrimp well in this, roll them in grated bread crumbs or yellow cornmeal (the latter being preferable) and fry in boiling lard. The Shrimp must swim in the lard. When they are a nice golden brown take out with a skimmer and drain on heated brown paper. Serve on a hot dish on a bed of fried parsley and garnish with parsley tips and olives. Baked Shrimp.

Chevrettes au Gratin 100 Lake Shrimp. 1 Dozen Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs or Crackers. Boil the Shrimp according to recipe. Butter a deep dish well and place in it a layer of grated bread crumbs or powdered crackers. Pick and clean the Shrimp and season well. Stew about a dozen tomatoes in a little. butter and season with pepper and salt. Place a layer of the tomatoes in the dish and then a thin layer of crackers or grated bread and over this a layer of Shrimp. Continue till you have four or five layers, the last being of the grated bread crumbs. Put little dots of butter here and there; place in the oven and bake till quite brown. Shrimp Pie.

* Vol-au-Vent de Chevrettes 100 Lake Shrimp.

3 Slices of Stale Bread. 2 Glasses of Milk.

1 Blade of Mace. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. % of a Ground Nutmeg.

3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.

5 Tomatoes. % of a Celery Stalk. a Bay Leaf. % Pint of Oyster Liquor. Boil and pick about 100 Shrimp. Take two large slices of stale bread and break off the crusts, grating this fine. Moisten the bread with two glasses of milk, and season highly with salt, pepper, a dash of Cayenne, ground nutmeg, chopped mace, thyme and parsley. Mix the Shrimp with the bread and bake in a dish. Sprinkle it with the grated crusts and dot with butter. Serve this pie with a sauce of dressed Shrimp. To make this take a pint of Shrimp, boiled and picked; put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan. Add the shrimp and four or five tomatoes, chopped fine; a little celery, thyme, one bay leaf, chopped fine, parsley (chopped), and mix thoroughly. Let it cook for about three or four minutes, and add a half pint of oyster stock. This is delicious poured over the sliced pie. Shrimp in Tomato Catsup.

Ohevrettes @ la Sauce Tomate 100 River Shrimp.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Tomato Catsup. 8 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.

Boil the Shrimp and pick. Put them into a salad dish, season well

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eS with black pepper and salt and a dash of Cayenne. Then add two tablespoonfuls of tomato catsup to every half pint of Shrimp. Garnish with lettuce leaves and hard-boiled egg and Shrimp Salad.

Mayonnaise de Chevrettes 100 River or Lake Shrimp.

1 Small Onion.

1 Bunch of Celery.

3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Salt and Pepper to Sliced Lemons, Beets and Celery Tips to Garnish.

Boil and pick the Shrimp, according to the recipe given. If River Shrimp are used, serve whole; if Lake Shrimp, slice in two, as they will be more dainty, and season well ‘with salt and pepper. Chop celery fine and add a little onion. Place the Shrimp in the salad dish and pour over all fine Mayonnaise Sauce (see recipe) and garnish with sliced hardboiled eggs, sliced lemon, beets and celery tops.

A Shrimp Bush.

Buisson de Chevrettes 100 Lake Shrimp.

Celery Tips. Asparagus Tips. A’ Shrimp Bush is a famous Creole hors d’oeuvre, and forms a very handsome table decoration also. Boil the Shrimp according to recipe. (See recipe Boiled Shrimp.) Take a glass fruit or cake stand, the fruit stand with several tiers being prettier. As Shrimp are small, they cannot be hung gracefully around the stand as in a Crawfish Bush. (See recipe.) They are, therefore, piled, first into a@ small deep dish, and a close cover is put on to press them down. They are then turned over and will be found clinging together in one solid mass, If a cake stand is used, set a glass bowl or goblet on it. Place the Shrimp on top of this glass bowl or goblet; then take dainty bits of celery tips and asparagus tips, and heap around as for a border. Another row is formed a little lower, and again intermingled with asparagus tips and celery tops, between which the pink Shrimp are gracefully placed and glimmer. The effect is very pretty. The Shrimp are served from the bush as an hors d'oeuvre. The effect of the pink against the green looks like a@ bush of green and red.

, CRABS, Des Crabce New Orleans points ‘with pride, and justly, not only to the splendid supply of Crabs that are to be found at all seasons in her markets, but to the various delightful ways that the natives have of serving them. The following are recipes that have been handed down by the Creoles from generation to generation.

Hard-Shell Crabs.

Crabcs Durs There is a science in eating the hard-shell Crab cooked in its own shell. The Creoles have reduced this to a fine point,,and a crab may be eaten without once using the fingers, if one only follows the following simple directions:

How to Eat a Hard-Shell Crab Cooked in Its Shell.

The shell and claws should be cracked in the kitchen, very gently, before being brought to the table, if the Crabs are boiled and served whole. By a delicate manipulation of the knife and fork remove the “apron” or “tablier,” which is the small loose shell running to a point about the middle of the under shell. Then cut the Crab claws off, still using the knife and fork, and finally cut the Crab into parts, and these again in two. Proceed to extract the meat from each quarter with the fork and eat with salt and pepper. It is considered quite “comme il faut’ to use the fingers, however, in holding ‘the Crabs, extracting the meat with the prongs of the fork.

Boiled Crabs.

Orabes Bouillis 1 Dozen Fine Crabs. 1 Bunch of Celery and Celery Tops.

2 Dozen Allspice. 4 Sprigs of Thyme. 4 Sprigs of Sweet Basil.

4 Sprigs of Sweet Marjoram. 3 Blades of Mace.

3 Bay Leaves. 4 Sprigs of Chives. A Red Pepper Pod. A Dash of Cayenne. Black Pepper and Salt Sufficient to Make a Brine.

Proceed in the same manner as for boiling shrimp. Buy fine, large Crabs. The livelier they are the better for the Crabs must be alive when put into the

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pot. Throw into a large pot of water bunches of celery tops, stalks of celery chopped fine, four or five large sprigs each of thyme, chopped sweet basil, marjoram, chives, two dozen allspice, three blades of mace, three bay leaves, chopped fine; a pod of red pepper, a dash of Cayenne, black pepper and salt enough to make the water briney. When this has boiled long enough to have extracted all the flavor of the herbs, put in the crabs and let them boil rapidly for twenty minutes, or until the shells are a bright red, but not one minute longer than this, as they will become watery. Let them cool a little in their own water and then take out, strip off the ‘“‘dead man’s fingers,” crack the claws without breaking open, and pile high in a broad platter and serve with salt and pepper.

Stewed Crabs, Crabee @ la Oréole 1 Dozen Large Live Crabs.

1 Stalk Chopped Celery.

1 Dozen Fresh_ Tomatoes or 1 Can. Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf, 1 Clove, Boil a dozen fine large Crabs about five minutes in order to kill them. Take them off the fire and when sufficiently cooled cut off the claws and crack, separating the joints. Remove the “apron” or “tablier” of the Crab and the ‘dead man’s fingers,” and take off the spongy substance. These are the portions that are uneatable. Remove the shell, cut the body of the crab into four parts, cutting down the center across. Chop a large onion very fine and brown with butter or lard, using a tablespoonful of either. Add a dozen fine, large, fresh tomatoes, chopped fine, in their liquor, and brown nicely, stir in chopped celery, thyme, parsley, one bay leaf, chopped fine; pepper and salt to taste, and a dash of Cayenne pepper. Add one clove of garlic, chopped fine. Taste and add more seasoning if necessary. Let the mixture cook ten minutes, then add the Crabs and let them cook ten minutes longer. Never add water to this sauce, as the liquor of the tomatoes is suffiecient and makes an excellent sauce. This is a fine fast-day dish. Serve with boiled rice or potatoes boiled whole.

Fricd Crabs.

Orabes Frits 1 Dozen Fine Large Crabs.

6 Tablespoonfuls of Butter or Lard. Stale Bread Crumbs, Grated. Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf, Onions. Boil the Crabs according to recipe. Cut off the claws and crack and cut the Crabs into quarters as for stewing. Season well with pepper and salt. Have ready a pint of milk. Mix pepper and salt in proportions of about two teaspoonfuls each. Have ready a fan of boiling lard and a plate of grated bread crumbs. Dip the Crabs into the milk and then roll in the bread crumbs and drop into the boiling lard, frying about ten minutes or until a golden brown. Serve on a platter with the claws piled in the center, the bodies of the crabs grouped nicely around, and garnish with sprigs of parsley. This is a deliclous way of serving Hard-Shell Crabs, Staffed Crabs, Crabes Farcis 1 Dozen Large, Fine Crabs. 1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Sprigs of Thyme. Hot Pepper. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Cup of Wet Bread.

Boil the Crabs according to recipe. Take off the fire and let them cool in their own water. After having removed the uneatable portions, pick out all the meat. Season well with salt and black pepper. Chop the onions and herbs very fine. Put a tablespoonful of butter heaping over into the frying pan. As it melts add the chopped onion and when it begins to fry add the crab meat, which has been thoroughiy seasoned with the chopped thyme, bay leaf, parsley and a dash of Cayenne to taste. Let this fry, put in a small clove of garlic, chopped very fine, and lastly add the bread, which has been wet and thoroughly squeezed of all water. ‘Mix this well with the ingredients in the frying pan and let it fry about five minutes longer. Then take off the fire and let it get cool. Wash a dozen of the finest and largest crab shells, or as many as this mixture will fill, and stuff them well with the crabmeat. Sprinkle these with grated bread crumbs and put a dot of butter on top of each; place in the oven and

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——>>>———E————————————_—_——————___ a bake about five minutes, or until a nice brown. Place on a platter and garnish with sprigs of parsley or celery tops. This is an excellent method of preparing Stuffed Crabs for family use.

Stuffed Crabs—No. 2.

Orabes Farcis - 2 Dozen Large, Fine Crabs. Salt and Pepper. 1 Tablespoonful of 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Thyme, Parsley and Onion.

Cayenne to Taste.

Boll the Crabs according to recipe. Clean and cut and pick out all the meat. Chop an onion fine; chop the thyme, bay leaf and parsley and hardboiled eggs, and mix well with the crab meat. Season highly with hot pepper and salt to taste. Put one heaping tablespoonful of butter into the frying pan and as it melts add the onion and fry it carefully without burning. Add the crab meat, and, if desired, the very small clove of garlic, chopped very fine. Let this fry about five minutes, stirring constantly. Mix thoroughly, fry three minutes longer, and then take off the stove. Stuff the crab shells, forming @ rolling lump in the middle. Sprinkle lightly with grated bread crumbs, and put a dot of butter.on top. Place in @ quick oven and let them bake about five minutes, or until a nice brown. The same or even better results are obtained by omitting the egg, many claiming that the delicate flavor of the crab meat is more daintily preserved without this addition. This is a delightful way of serving Crabs for luncheons, or where it is not necessary to make, as the Creoles say, “a long family dish.”

Deviled Crabs.

Orabes @ Ia Diable 1 Dozen Fine, Large Crabs. 1 Tablespoon of Salt.

% Pint of Cream. % Nutmeg Grated. The Yolks of 4 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Boil the Crabs according to recipe. Take out and drain after they have cooled in their own water. Break off the claws, separate the shells, remove the spongy portions and the ‘dead man’s fingers,” and then pick out the. to recipe given above.

meat. Put the cream on to boil, rub the flour and butter together well and add to the boiling cream. Stir and cook for two minutes. Take from the fire and add the crab meat, the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs, mashed very fine; the chopped parsley, grated nutmeg, salt and Cayenne. Clean the upper shells of the Crabs, fill them with the mixture, brush over with a beaten egg, sprinkle with bread crumbs and put in a quick oven to brown; or, better still, if you have a frying basket, plunge the Crabs into the boiling fat or lard: until a nice brown. But many prefer them baked. Scalloped Crabs.

Coqutlles de Crabes The Meat of 1 Dozen Picked Crabs. A Dash of Grated Nutmeg.

Bread Crumbs. 1 Egg.

Pepper and Salt to Taste.

Boil and pick the Crabs according Beat an egg thoroughly and add to the meat, which has been seasoned highly with Cayenne and salt to taste. Take one clove of garlic, chop fine and add, then sift into ‘this mixture fine grated bread crumbs or cracker crumbs, and mix thoroughly. Beat an egg, roll the Crabs into boulets or meat balls, and then bind by rolling lightly in the egg. Dip in the bread crumbs, grated nicely, and then drop into boiling lard, and fry until a pale golden brown, which wiil generally require about three minutes. The secret is to have them cooked just enough, for, as a rule, they are generally overdone. Wash and clean the shells thoroughly; wipe dry, set a boulet in the center of each and garnish prettily with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon. This is a dainty dish for breakfast or luncheon, They must be served very hot.

Crab Croquettes, Crabes cn Croquettes 1 Dozen Crabs.

1 Cup of Wet Bread, Squeezed Well. 1 Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. Boil the Crabs clean and pick. Then season the meat well with salt and pepper. Chop the onion fine, also the herbs. Put a tablespoonful of butter in the frying pan, and as it melts add the chopped onion. When it begins

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to fry, add the crab meat, which has been mixed thoroughly with the chopped thyme, bay leaf, parsley and garlic and a dash of Cayenne. Add the bread, which has been thoroughly squeezed, and mix all and fry about three minutes. Take off the fire, and when cool form the mixture into cylindrical shapes of about two or three inches in length and one in‘ thickness. Roll in grated bread crumbs and fry in boiling lard. Serve hot on a dish nicely garnished with parsley and sliced lemon.

Crab Salad.

Crabes en Salade 2 Dozen Fine, Large Crabs. 12 Celery Stalks. 1 Dozen Olives. A Mayonnaise Sauce.

Boil the Crabs according to recipe. Clean and pick out all the meat. Season well with salt and pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Chop the celery fine and mix with the crab meat. Place on a dish in pyramidal shape and pour over nicely a Sauce & la Mayonnaise. (See recipe.) Garnish tastefully with sliced hard-boiled eggs, sliced beets, asparagus or celery tips on top and around with sprigs of parsley and asparagus tips, with sliced lemon and sliced hard-boiled egg alternating. This is a delicious salad. Crab Salad—No. 2.

Crabcs cn Salade 1 Dozen Large Crabs.

1 Tablespoonful of French Vinegar. 1 Saltspoonful Salt. 1 Head Lettuce. Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Pick the boiled crab carefully, keeping the pieces as large as possible. Lay in a salad bowl. Mix a dressing of two tablespoonfuls of sweet oil, one of French vinegar, one saltspoon of salt, black pepper and Cayenne, according to taste, and pour over the crabs, which have been cooled in the ice box. Clean the lettuce well and put a row of crisp leaves around the edge of the salad dish. Garnish nicely with sliced lemon and hard-boiled eggs sliced.

Crab Pie.

Fol-au-Vent de Crabce 1 Dozen Large Crabs.

Sliced Stale Bread.

Butter. Milk. Cayenne. Salt. Boil according to recipe one dozen fine, large Crabs and pick out all the meat. Season nicely with salt, Cayenne and chopped thyme and bay leaf. Take stale bread and slice very thin. Lay in a little milk to moisten. Butter a baking pan and cover the bottom with a layer of bread. Then put in a layer of crab meat and lay over at intervals slices of lemon cut very fine and thin. Dot here and there with bits of butter, and then spread over another layer of bread. Then another layer of crabs, and repeat till the meat 19 used up. Lay on top a thick sprinkling of bread crumbs, dotted with butter. Place in the oven and bake for about twenty minutes. Serve hot Soft-Shell Crabs Crabcs Mous The Soft-Shell Crab has always been considered a great luxury in New Orleans, where its possibilittes as a most delicate and savory dish were first discovered. Northern epicures, quick to appreciate the toothsome morsel, returned.to their homes loud in their praises of this discovery. The SoftShell Crab is now being shipped North, and is a popular feature of the Northern markets, though the prices range very high. The SoftShell Crab is found the vear around in the famous French Market. This Crab is at its best when prepared according to the following methods: Fried Soft-Shell Crabs Crabcs Mous Frits 1 Dozen Soft-Shell Crabs.

Bread Crumbs, Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Taste.

The greatest care must be taken in preparing and cleaning the Crab. Wash carefully, removing all sand, but do not scald or blanch them, as this destroys the fine flavor completely. Remove the spongy, feathery substances under the side _ points. These are called the ‘“maneaters,” and are very irritating and indigestible. Remove also the sand bag or “sand pouch” from under the shells just between the eyes; also remove the “tablier” or “apron.” Then wash well in cold water, and dry with a towel. Take a pint of milk and season well with pepper and salt; season the crabs and soak them in the milk, rubbing thoroughly, so that the milk may thoroughly impregnate them.

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Take out and roll in a little sifted flour. Pat lightly with -the hand, shake off superfluous flour and fry in boiling grease, being always careful to have sufficient grease in the pan for the crabs to swim in it. When a delicate golden brown, take out with askimmer. Drain on a piece of heated brown paper, and serve on a bed of fried parsley, with garnishes of sliced lemon. Serve with “Sauce & la Tartare.” (See recipe.) Brotled Soft-Shell Crabs Crabes @ ta Creole 1 Dozen_Solf-Shell Crabs.

4 Tablespoonfuls of Flour,eSifted. Butter. Sliced Lemon.

Parsley Garnish.

It was a celebrated New Orleans chef who first decided to broil the Soft-Shell Crab. His success was great and “Crabes & la Créole” were in great demand at once at the hotels and restaurants. To broil the SoftShell Crab always use the double wire broiler. Clean the crab according to the method given above and wash in cold water. Dry with a towel and season well. Season a pint of milk with salt and black pepper, and soak the crabs in it so as to thoroughly impregnate them with the milk. Then pat Hghtly with a little “flour and brush over with melted butter. Place between the broiler and broil till a delicate brown over a slow fire. It will generally require about fifteen minutes to cook thoroughly. Serve on a platter, nicely garnished with parsley sprigs and lemon cut in quarters. Pour over the crabs a little melted butter and chopped parsley. CRAWFISH Desa Ecreviascs Besides the famous Crawfish Bisque (Bisque d’fcrevisses, see recipe) the Creoles have dainty ways of serving this typical Louisiana shell fish. Among the most popular are the following:

Boiled Crawfish Des Ecrevisscs Boutllies 60 Crawfish. 1 Gallon of Water. Half Gallon of French Vinegar. Put the water on to boil, adding the chopped herb bouquet, one clove of garlic (chopped fine), one dozen allspice and six cloves, When the water has boiled long enough to have extracted all the juices of the herb bouquet, add the vinegar and salt— enough to make it almost briny, and Cayenne enough to make it hot. Then throw in the crawfish and let them boil about twenty minutes or until a bright red. Set them to cool in their own water and serve on a platter piled high in pyramidal shape, and garnish nicely with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon. Serve with salt and pepper, oil and Chili vinegar, each person making the dressing as it suits his taste.

Crawfish Baked & la Creole Ecrevisses Gratinées @ la Créole 50 Crawfish. 2 Livers.

1 Bouquet of Fine Herbs.

Boil according to recipe fifty large, fine Crawfish, When cooked, allow them to cool in their own water. Clean them, picking off the shells and leaving the Crawfish whole. Take out all the smallest ones, and cut off ‘tthe tail ends of the largest and place with the small ones; chop the remainder of the large Crawfish, and make a dressing with two chopped livers, parsley, the minced contents of one-half can of mushrooms, the bouquet of fine herbs, consisting of thyme, bay leaf, sweet marjoram, etc.; chop a half dozen shallots and add to the dressing, and season highly with Cayenne and salt and black pepper to taste. Cut up the yolks of two eggs and mix with a cup of the soft portion of bread, which has been wet and thoroughly squeezed of all water. Place two tablespoonfuls of butter in a frying pan and add the dressing when it begins to heat; cook about ten minutes and then place in the dish in which the Crawfish are to be served, making a bed of the dressing. Arrange with symmetry and grace the reserve Crawfish upon this bed; cover lightly with the rest of the stuffing, and dot with small bits of butter, after sprinkling with grated bread crumbs. Pour over all a Cream Sauce and the juice of a lemon. Place in the oven and let it bake about ten or fifteen minutes, and serve with Cream Sauce seasoned with lemon juice. (See recipe, Cream Sauce.)

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A Crawfish Bush Butsson d’Ecrevisses 100 Fine Crawfish. Celery Tips. Asparagus Tips. Parsley Tips. This is a celebrated Creole hors d'oeuvre, as also a table garnish. Boil the Crawfish according to recipe. (See recipe.) Take a glass fruit or cake stand and place in the center of the table. Set a goblet upon it. Fit the goblet with celery tips and parsley tips, and hang a number of Crawfish grecefully around the goblet from the rim or outer edges. Continue hanging the dish with celery, asparagus and parsley tips, and hanging the Crawfish around the edges of the fruit stand, and in and out amid the greenery. The effect of the red amid the green is very pretty, presenting the appearance of a beautiful bush of red and green. The Crawfish are served from the bush.

TURTLE Green Turtle Steaks Fileta de Tortue 2 Pounds of Turtle Steaks. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Sliced Lemon and Parsley to Garnish. Current Jelly Sauce or Sauce Poivrade. Select the female Turtle, as the meat is best. If bought alive from the market, clean according to recipe. (See recipe for cleaning Turtle.) Otherwise the butcher may prepare it, as is frequently done in the New Orleans market.

Turtle meat is very irregular, therefore cut the meat into thick slices or steaks, about the size of a filet of beef, and batter down with the hands to make smooth and regular. Then fry in butter. Season well with salt and pepper and garnish with parsley and lemon, and serve with Currant Jelly Sauce or Sauce Poivrade. (See Stewed Turtle Ragout de Tortue @ la Bourgeoise 2 Pounds of Turtle Meat. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Sprig of Thyme.

A Wineglassful of Grape Juice. Cut the meat of the Turtle about an inch in size. Chop an onion and put it into a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of lard to brown. As it begins to brown, add a tablespoonful of flour, one bay leaf, one clove of garlic and a sprig of thyme, chopped very fine. Mix this thoroughly with the turtle meat, then add a cup of water, and cook for half an hour.

CHAPTER XJ Poissons Salés Halibut, Salmon, Fresh Codfish, Fresh Lobster, Shad and other fish peculiar to the Northern and Eastern waters are rarely seen on New Orleans tables, except in the hotels and restaurants, which import them. With these fish, in their fresh state, this book will not treat. But the Salt Codfish, Salted Mackerel and Canned Salmon are in general family use. The Salted Mackerel and Codfish, indeed, enter largely into the daily household economy of New Orleans, especially on fast days. The following recipes are modeled after Creole methods: Salted Codfish De la Morue First, and above all, it is necessary to ‘‘dessaler la Morue,’”’ as the Creoles put it, or to remove every trace and appearance of the salt in which the fish has been put up. Always soak the Codfish at least overnight or twentyfour hours before using in cold water, changing the water as often as possible, to assist in removing the salt; and always boil on a hot fire fifteen or twenty minutes before making into any of the following dishes:

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Boiled Codfish La Morue Boutlite Codfish. 3 Dozen Oysters.

spoonful of Flour.

2 Gills of Fresh Cream or Milk. The Oyster Water.

Boil the Codfish about thirty or forty minutes, after soaking overnight; drain and serve with an Oyster Sauce, or Sauce aux Hultres, prepared as follows: Make a Cream Sauce (see recipe), only use, in this case, the strained juice of the oyster to blend the flour and butter, and add the rich cream or milk to make up the desired quantity. Scald the oysters in their own water about three minutes, and then add to the sauce, mixing thoroughly, seasoning with salt, pepper and Cayenne, using preferably celery salt; let it boil up once and serve with the boiled Codfish. Egg Sauce (see recipe) may also be used with Boiled Codfish, but is not to be compared to the Oyster Sauce.

Stewed Codfish Morue Sautée a la Lyonnaise Twelve Small Potatoes, or Left-Overs. Salt Cod, Enough for Six Persons. 1 Dozen White Onions.

1 Tablespoonful of Flour Blended With Two of Milk.

If the potatoes are not left over from the day before, wash and peel them and also the onion; boil the potatoes till tender; soak the fish overnight, and boil for twenty minutes, or until tender. Then cut the fish into pieces of about two or three inches in length. Put a tablespoonful of lard in the stewpan and lay in the potatoes and then the onions, and the Codfish on top; add enough cold water to cover the whole, and let it simmer until the fish is well cooked. Then take out the fish, and allow the potatoes and onions to simmer on. Remove -every piece of bone from the fish, and trim edges nicely. Dissolve in another stewpan the butter and flour, as directed abeve; let this simmer gently without browning, and then put in the potatoes, onions and fish in the order given above, pour over this the quart of cream or milk; let it simmer for about ten minutes more till the milk comes to a boil, and serve hot. tee:

Fried Codfish La Morue Frite Codfish. 1 Pint of Milk.

1 Egg. 1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. Parsley and Lemon to Garnish. Soak the Codfish overnight, then boil twenty minutes, or until very tender; take out and cut into slices about one inch thick and dry with a clean towel, have ready a pint of milk and season well with pepper only; season the Codfish, rubbing a little black pepper to taste and a dash of Cayenne over it. Soak the fish in the milk, and have ready some crushed bread crumbs and a well-beaten egg; when the fish is well soaked, dip each slice first into the egg, and then in bread crumbs, patting lightly, and drop into the boiling lard; the fish must swim in the lard. When fried a golden brown, take out with a skimmer, drain off all fat, and serve hot on a bed of fried parsley, garnished with sliced lemon.

Creamed Codfish Morue @ la Crome 3 Cups of Picked Codfish.

1 Pint and a Half of Cream. The Yolk of 1 Egg.

Soak the Codfish overnight, and then let it boil about forty minutes. Then take off, scald again and drain, and again scald and drain, allowing it to stand each time about four or five minutes before changing the water. Put one large tablespoonful of butter in the frying pan; when melted add the flour and blend, without browning; then add the milk, stirring constantly until it boils. Next put in the fish, seasoning highly with pepper and Cayenne. Let it boil about ten minutes longer, and take off the fire; ‘then add the yolk of an egg, which has been beaten thoroughly, and serve hot, with plain boiled potatoes buttered.

Codfish Balls Oroquettes de Morue 2 Cups of Picked Codfish.

2 Cups of Mashed Potatoes. % Cup of Cream..

Bread Crumbs. 2 Beaten Eggs. Pepper and Cayenne to Taste. Soak the Codfish overnight and boll until tender, Pour off this water, and scald again with hot water; pick fine, scald again and then drain thoroughly, pressing out all the water. Mash the potatoes, and mix in them about three

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rd tablespoonfuls of butter. Then add the Codfish and mix thoroughly, seasoning with about a teaspoonful of black pepper, and a dash of Cayenne to taste. Add to this the cream, and again mix. Mold the Codfish into round or oval balls; then roll in the egg, which has been well beaten, and pass through the bread crumbs, patting gently, and lay them in a frying basket and sink them deep into the boiling lard, having tested the heat with a bit of bread. The balls must swim in the lard. Otherwise drop into the boiling lard. When a golden brown, lift out the basket, or take out the balls with a skimmer; drain well of all the fat by laying on a heated brown paper, and then serve hot on a dish garnished with sprigs of parsley. This quantity will make about a dozen and a half balls or croquettes. There is no difference between the preparation of the Codfish Ball and the Codfish Croquette, but n.erely an alteration in the manner of molding, the croquette being oval or elongated, in cylindrical shapes, and the ball being molded round and a little flattened on top.

Codfish Bacalao Bacalao @ la Vizcaina 1_ Pound of Salted Codfish. 1 Large Onion, Chopped Fine. 1 Pint of Rich Tomato Sauce. 2 Cloves of Garlic, Chopped Fine. Crodtons. 1 Red Pepper.

Pepper to Taste. 6 Tomatoes. Thyme. Bay Leaf. Parsley.

Soak the Codfish well overnight, and in the morning boil for about forty-five minutes, until very tender. When you set it to boil, put the fish first in cold water. After it has boiled scald again thoroughly, pick out all the bones and set it away to cool. Then prepare a rich Tomato Sauce, according to the following directions: Take six large fresh tomatoes, or a half can of tomatoes, and add a heaping tablespoonful of butter, four sprigs of parsley, thyme and two bay leaves, all chopped very fine; add two chopped onions and a clove of garlic, chopped fine, that have been fried in a little butter. Now put the saucepan, with tthe sauce, into boiling water, and add pepper and Cayenne and a pinch of salt to taste. Stew very gently for about two hours or longer, if necessary. Then strain the sauce and make a@ roux with one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour; stir, let it brown lightly, and put it in the sauce. Boil about four minutes longer until rich and thick. Then fry the remaining large onion and clove of garlic, chopped very fine, in a gill of olive oil, or two tablespoonfuls of butter if the taste of the oil is disliked, and when it browns add this to the sauce with a red sweet pepper, finely chopped. Cut about a dozen Crottons, in dice or diamond shapes, from the soft part of the bread, and fry in boiling lard. Heat a dish, put in the Codfish, pour over it the Tomato Sauce, border the dish with the fried Crodtons, and set in the oven, allowing it to bake ten or fifteen minutes longer. The Spanish red peppers are the best for this sauce. Black pepper may be added if desired. ‘ SALT MACKEREL Du Maqucreau Salt Mackerel is either boiled or broiled, and either method of cooking according to the following recipes makes a palatable and delicately toothsome dish.

Boiled Salt Mackerel Maquercau Boutlit 2 Salt Mackerel.

Chopped Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Soak the Mackerel overnight, and in the morning take out of the water, wash thoroughly, removing every portion of salt, and wash again. Have ready a deep pan of boiling water: place the Mackerel in it and let it boil ten or fifteen minutes until done, which can be known by the flesh beginning to part from the bones. Serve whole on a platter garnished with parsley. Pour over the Mackerel melted butter and chopped parsley, and bring to the table very hot. Mackerel boiled or broiled is a very nice breakfast dish on fast days. Serve with potatoes, boiled whole or made into croquettes.

Broiled Mackerel Maquereau Grillé 2 Salt Mackerel. 1 Cup of Milk. 2 Tablespoontuls of Butter or a Cream auce.

Sliced Lemon, Olives and Parsley. Sprigs to Garnish.

Soak the Mackerel and wash thoroughly as directed above, only using

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ed SS Ea» EE boiling water. Have ready some milk, seasoned well with black pepper, and soak the Mackerel in the milk until thoroughly impregnated. Take out and wipe dry with a towel. Then smear the Mackerel with butter, and place between a double broiler, over a slow fire, broiling about fifteen or twenty minutes, the under side being allowed to broil first. When done, take off and pour over it melted butter and chopped parsley; garnish the dish with sprigs of parsley, sliced lemons and olives, and serve hot. A Cream Sauce may be also served instead of the butter, and makes a delicious dish. SALMON Mayonnaise de Saumon 1 Can of Salmon. 2 Heads of Crisp Lettuce.

spoonfuls of Flour.

Sauce a la Mayonnaise.

To one can of Salmon allow two good-sized heads of young lettuce. Make a bed of the crisp hearts of the leaves, and tear the other leaves into small pieces with a fork, making very delicate shreds. Drain the oil from the can of Salmon, and separate the fish into flakes. Take a cupful of boiling milk, a tablespoonful of butter and two of flour, and stir over the fire until quite smooth. Add to this a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and the Salmon. Season with pepper and salt, and let it cook about ten minutes. Set away to cool, and then place on the bed of lettuce leaves. Cover with a Sauce & la Mayonnaise (see recipe), and garnish nicely with sliced hard-boiled eggs, celery tips, etc., and serve.

Salmon Salad Saumon en Satade 1 Can of Salmon.

1-3 the Quantity of Chopped Celery. Sliced Lemon. Olives. 1 Pickled Beet. Flake the Salmon, heap it in a salad bowl, and mix with chopped celery, using one-third of the latter in proportion to the quantity pf Salmon, Add a Plain French Dressing. (See recipe.) When ready to serve turn into a salad dish, on which you have arranged a crisp bed of lettuce. Garnish with sliced lemon, olives and hard-boiled eggs, and with one daintily sliced pickled beef.

HERRINGS Des Harengs The Salted Herrings, such as come to New Orleans, must first of all be soaked thoroughly’ overnight, or longer, to take away all salt. Then they are cleaned nicely and broiled and served with a cream sauce or drawn butter sauce, preferably the former. They are also cut into filets and eaten without further cooking, or - “Cru,” as we say here, and also as an hors d’oeuvre.

ANCHOVY Des Anchots Anchovies are served as a preliminary to the dinner, being drained of the oil which clings to them after being taken from the can. Three or four Anchovies are then placed between delicate soda biscuits, and tied with a bit of ribban in squares, with a bow cut short in the center. The effect is very pretty. The Anchovies are also mashed and placed between the crackers, like a sandwich, Either way is excellent.

Anchovy Salad Salade d’Anchois This salad is a dainty dish for luncheon or supper. Have an oval dish and arrange the Anchovies, drained of oil, crosswise on a bed of erjsp lettuce, or of chopped water? cress. Surround with a border of chopped whites of eggs and a similar border of chopped watercresses, and pour over all a sour French Dressing. (See recipe.) Anchovies are used as an hors d’oeuvre,

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jj Y/\ 7, MUN om, Meats are, of course, common to every clime and country, but not every. People have the palatable and appetizing methods of preparation that have been handed down to the Creoles of Louisiana by their French and Spanish ancestors and so modified and improved upon that it may be said that they have created a new school of cookery in the choice preparation and serving of beef, veal, mutton, pork and venison. Our “roties” or roasts, our methods of broiling, our delightful “ragofts,” our famous “grillades,” our unique “daubes,” in a word, our dozen and one nutritious and agreeable combinations of meats, with vegetables, and our unequaled manner of seasoning, have given to the Creole kitchen a fame that has been as lasting as well deserved. The Creoles have discovered that almost any portion of the beef from the head to the tall may be delicately and temptingly Prepared, so as to please even the most fastidious Ppalates. They have reduced the science of cooking meats to a practical system which enables the family of moderate means to live not only economically, but with much real luxury. Rules Which the Creoles Follow in Cooking Meats Always remember that Beef and Mutton must be cooked rare, and Pork and Veal well done.

Beef should always be roasted, broiled or smothered, Mutton may be roasted, broiled, boiled or stewed.

Veal may be roasted, stewed, smothered or fried, when cut into chops. Pork is always roasted or fried. Ham is broiled, boiled or fried. Bacon is broiled, fried or boiled, the latter when cooked with vegetables, Venison is roasted or made into “ragott,” like Beef a la Mode, and the cutlets are broiled. The meat of venison should be of fine grain and well covered with fat. If the venison is very young, the hoofs are but slightly opened; if old, the hoofs stand wide apart.

BEEF Dw Boeuf Roast Beef Boeuf Rott The first four ribs of the beef are always the best for a roast. The tenderloin lies here, and three g00d ribs or a “full cut,” as the butchers term it, should be enough to make a roast for a family of six. Always remember that if the roast is cut too thin the juices dry too rapidly and the exquisite flavor ig gone. After the ribs come the sirloin and the spine bone as second and third choice. Have the butcher skewer the Toast so that it will have a nice shape when it comes on the table, and will retain ail the juice of the beef. Leave the bones in the roast, as the meat will be far Sweeter than when taken out. Rub the meat well with salt and Pepper, dredge slightly with lara and set in a hot oven, The heat of the oven at once coagulates the blood and prevents it from escaping, thus rendering the meat nutritious, Every now and then baste the beef with its own juices and let it cook, adding no water, as sufficient fat runs from the beef to baste with. Allow fifteen minutes to every pound of meat if one likes the meat rare, otherwise allow twenty minutes. But the Creoles always roast beef rare. To ascertain the desired state, occasionally stick a needle into the beef. If the blood spurts up, the meat is ready to Serve, and, cooked to this point, is a most nutritious dish. Watch carefully and do not let it pass this stage. Serve on a dish in its own gravy.

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SE Filet of Beef Larded Filet de Boeuf Piqué 1 Filet of Beef.

Lard Sufficient to Lard Thoroughly. 1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 4 Cloves, if Desired.

1 Tablespoonful of Glace. (See Recipe.) Trim the filet nicely, removing the outer muscular skin. Lard the filet well, using larding needles. The lard must be very thin, like a shoestring. The larding is done by filling the needles with the lard and pushing them through the filet as far as they will go. If the needles are long enough they will come out on the other side of the filet, leaving the lard within. Repeat this process all down the center and along the sides of the filet, about an inch apart, and have the rows neat and even. If you have not a larding needle, make incisions with a knife, and push the lard in with your finger, but the filet is never as juicy and tender, nor does it look so clean and even when baked. When well larded, dredge well with salt and pepper, rubbing this thoroughly into the beef. Cut up one small onion, and one bay leaf, mash four cloves, and place in the bottom of the baking pan. Lay the larded filet on this bed, the Jarded side being uppermost. Put small bits of butter equal to a half tablespoonful on top, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. This dish is always eaten rare. To ascertain if sufficiently done, stick a fork into the filet; if the blood bubbles out, it is read to serve. The meat when done is always spongy and, elastic to the touch, In the meantime prepare the following brown sauce: Take one tablespoonful of butter and one of Glacé (see recipe under chapter ‘Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.”), and three of water; rub smoothly and melt in a saucepan, stirring constantly to prevent burning. When brown add one cup of water. Season well with salt and pepper. Pour over the filet, which must be placed in a hot dish, and Filet of Beef Larded With Mushrooms. Filet de Bocuf Piqué auz Champignons 1 Filet of Beef. % Can of Mushrooms. Trim and lard the beef according to the directions given in the above recipe, and bake in the same manner —rare. When it has cooked for a half hour in a quick oven, it will be done. Then make a sauce as follows: Take one tablespoonful of butter and one of Glacé and three of water; melt the butter and add the Glacé, browning nicely without burning, and stirring constantly. When brown add. one pint of water. Season well with salt and pepper. Then add a half can of mushrooms, chopped very fine. Stir well and let it boil about ten minutes, so as not to be too thick nor yet too thin. The intelligent cook will judge by tasting to see that it is seasoned properly. Place the filet in a hot dish, pour the sauce over and Filet of Beef With Truffies Filet de Boeuf Piqué auz Truffes ow a le Perigeun 1 Filet_of Beef. Can of Truffles. 1 Pint of Broth or Water.

Proceed in the same manner as in the preparation of Filet of Beef Larded. When it has baked for a half hour make a sauce as follows: One tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; add two tablespoonfuls of Glacé (see recipe under chapter “Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.”), add one pint of broth or water. Let it boil slowly for ten minutes, and add one-half can of truffies, chopped very fine, if & la Perigeaux; if aux truffes, cut in dice. Let the sauce boil slowly twenty minutes longer, and then pour over the filet, serving hot. Broiled Beefsteak Filet de Bocuf Grillé 3 Pounds of Steak for Broiling Purposes.

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. The Juice of 1 Lemon.

Chopped Parsley and Lettuce Leaves to The cut known as the “Porterhouse Steak” is unquestionably the best for broiling. The next in order is the sirloin, where there are always choice cuts, but the entire sirloin is not profitable for broiling and the coarse ends may be used in making stews, gumbos, etc. There is an art in broiling a beefsteak properly, and the Creoles have certainly attained this in its perfection. The broiler in a well regulated household is always

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SS put on a furnace of hot charcoals in preference to the open front of the stove. The broiling over the coals gives the meat a flavor one vainly seeks otherwise. Dredge the meat well with salt and pepper and then brush lightly with butter. Place it on the hot gridiron and let it broil quickly for four minutes; then turn on the other side for four minutes longer. When done take off, place in a hot dish, butter nicely and sprinkle with chopped parsley, and the juice of a lemon, and serve immediately. Smothered Beefsteak Filct Braisé Braising or smothering meat is a mode of cooking little understood by the Americans, but which has been brought by the Creoles to a high state of perfection. By this process the meat is just covered, and no more, with a little water, or with a strong broth made from animal! stock or the juices of vegetables. The pot is covered with a closely fitting lid and is put on a slow fire and allowed to simmer slowly for two or three hours, just short of the boiling point. By this slow process of cooking, tough meats are rendered juicy, tender and very agreeable to the. palate, while the covered pot enables the meat to retain all its flavor.

The great secret in smothering meat is to let it cook very slowly, simmering, however, all the time, so that the heat may thoroughly penetrate making tender and juicy the coarse fiber of the meat. When tender, put the beefsteak into a platter, cover with the onions and gravy, and you will have a delicious and delicately flavored dish.

Beefsteak Smothered in Onions Filet Braisé auz Oignons 3 Pounds of Round Steak.

6 Onions, Sliced Fine. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Clove of Garlic. Pepper and Salt to Taste.

Beat the Round Steak well with the rolling pin or steak hammer; cut off the outer skin and press the meat back into shape. Place the tablespoonful of lard in the deep frying pan and let it melt. Then lay in the sliced onions, and over these the beefsteak, which has been well seasoned with salt and pepper and dredged with the flour. Cover closely. Let it simmer over a hot fire for a few minutes and then turn the steak on ‘the other side. After three minutes add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, chopped parsley, thyme and bay leaf and a clove of garlic. Turn the steak, letting the flour brown well, and keep the pot closely covered. When brown pour over it a cup of water or as much as will be sufficient to cover the meat. Bring this to a brisk boil and set the pot back where it can simmer gently for about two hours. Filets of beef may be smothered in the same manner, only these will require no beating with the steak hammer.

Filet of Beef Smothecred With Mushrooms or ‘iruiiles, Filet de Bocuf Braisé aur Champignons, ou aur Trufes 1 Filet of Beef.

1 Can of Mushrooms or % Truffles. 6 Onions, Sliced Fine. 1 Pint of Hot Water.

Smother the Beef, using a filet for this delicious dish, according to the recipe given for Smothered Beefsteak. After it has cooked about a half hour add one can of mushrooms and let it continue to simmer gently for an hour and a half longer. Put the filet in a dish, place the mushrooms over and around as a garnish, pour the sauce over it and serve at once. If truffles are used instead of the mushrooms, add one-half can and as when using the mushrooms, Can of Filct of Beef with Tomatoes Filet de Boeuf Braisé auz Tomates 1 Filet of Beef. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard.

6 Onions, sliccd fine. 1 Clove of % Can of Tomatoes or 6 Large Fresh Ones, 1 Pint of Hot Water.

Smother the filet in exactly the same manner as already described. When cooked for about a half hour, add

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one-half can of tomatoes and their juice, or six large fresh tomatoes sliced in their juice. Let the mixture simmer for an hour and a half longer, season well and serve, pouring the gravy over the filet.

Filet of Beef with Stuffed Tomatoes Filet Braisé aux Tomates Farctes 1 Filet of Beef.

1 Dozen Uniform-Sized Tomatoes. 1 Cup of Mushrooms. 1 Clove of Garlic. % Cup of Stale Bread Crumbs. Smother the filet accbrding to the directions given above, adding two chopped tomatoes to the sauce. Cut the stem ends from the tomatoes and scoop out the soft inside, being careful to retain the skins in proper shape. Then take a half cup of mushrooms, one-half cup of stale bread crumbs, which have been wet and squeezed, one clove of garlic, chopped very fine, and one grated onion, a sprig of chopped parsley. Chop the mushrooms fine, put a full tablespoon of butter into a frying pan, and, when melted, add the bread crumbs, which have been seasoned with salt and pepPer and Cayenne, and -mixed thoroughly with the chopped onion or garlic and the parsley. When these begin to fry add the chopped mushrooms, stirring constantly for about five or eight minutes. Serve with Stuffed Tomatoes (see recipe). Beef 4 la Mode.

Daube 5 Pounds of the Rump or the Round of Beef. % Pound of Salt Fat. Large Onions. 2 Turnips. 5 Carrots. Sprig of Thyme and Parsley. Cut the fat of the salt meat into thin shreds. Chop the onion and bay leaf very fine, as also the garlic, thyme and cloves. Rub the shreds well with salt and pepper. Take the rump of beef and lard thickly by making incisions about three or four inches in length and inserting the Pieces of salt fat and spices, onion and thyme and garlic, mixed thoroughly. Take two large onions and cut into quarters and put in a saucepan with one tablespoonful of lard. Let the slices brown and then lay on top the rump of beef, well larded. Cover closely and let it simmer very slowly till well browned. Then add the chopped bay leaf and parsley. When brown add five carrots cut into inch squares, two turnips, cut in the same manner, and two large onions, chopped fine. Let the whole brown keeping well covered and cooking slowly over a low but regular fire. Be always careful to keep the cover very tight on the pot. When it has simmered about ten minutes, turn the daube on the other side, cover closely and let it simmer ten minutes more. Then pour over it sufficient boiling water to cover the daube; or, better still, if you have it, use instead of the water, boiling ‘“consommé” or “potau-feu.” Season according to taste with salt, Cayenne and black pepper. Cover the pot tight and set it back on the stove, letting it smother slowly for about three hours, until tender. Serve hot or cold.

Cold Daube & la Créole Daube Froide @ la Créole 3 Pounds of the Rump or Round of the Beef.

2 Pounds of Veal Rump.

2 Pig's Feet. Pound of Salt Fat Meat. 5 Large Onions. 2 Turnips. 5 Carrots. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves.

3 Sprigs of Thyme and Parsley. Cut the salt meat into shreds, roll well in Cayenne and black pepper. Chop finely several sprigs of thyme and three bay leaves, one clove of garlic, three sprigs of parsley, and mash well three cloves and six allspice. Roll the strips of salt meat, which must be about three inches in length and one-half inch thick, in this. Make incisions into the rump of meat and force in the strips of fat meat and the spices.’ Then rub the whole well with salt and pepper, judging according to taste and proceed to cook according to the recipe for Beef a la Mode. Let the Daube cook about four hours when you intend to serve it cold.

In the meantime, in another pot, place about two pounds of veal steak and two pig’s feet. Season well with salt and pepper and Cayenne, and cover well with four quarts of water, and let them boil. Add one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, one-half clove of garlic and one onion, all

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\ el minced very fine, and two cloveg mashed almost into a jelly. Let these bot! well with the veal and pig's feet. Then, when the veal and pig’s feet are cooked very tender, take them out of the pot and mince the meat of each very fine; return to the sauce, and again season highly, according to taste, for the flavor depends upon the Piquant seasoning. After the daube has cooked four or five hours, take it off the fire, pour over it the sauce and set all in a cool place. Serve the next day—cold, cutting into thin slices. It will all have formed a jelly ‘that is most delicious and appetizing. Beef Mariné.

Boeuf Mariné 4 Pounds of Beef, from the Round or Shoulder.

8 Bay Leaves. 1 Onion. 1 Lemon. Mace and Allspice.

% Teaspoonful Each of Ground Cloves. The “brisket” of the beef is excellent for this, as also the ‘“breastplate.” Mix the spices, salt and pepper thoroughly and rub well into both sides of the beef. Chop the onions fine, and cover the meat with them. Then mix the oil and vinegar and the juice of one lemon, and pour this over the meat. Set it in the ice box, or a cool place, and let it stand overnight. Then put it into the stewpan, and be careful to retain all the juices of the spices. Set on the fire and let it simmer ten minutes, adding the bay leaves, chopped very fine. Then add a tablespoonful flour, rolled smoothly in a half teaspoonful of butter or lard, melted. Let this brown, and then half cover the meat with boiling water, using good judgment. Cover closely and set on the oven, letting the beef cook two hours, and turning once, so that both sides may be well penetrated by the heat. Serve on a hot dish, pouring the gravy over. This is a very old-fashioned dish Fried Meat.

La Viande Frite Frying among the Creoles is done in several ways. The first and the method most generally adopted in households is to put a tablespoonful of lard or an ounce, as the quantity of meat to cook may seem to require, into a frying pan. When the lard has reached the boiling point lay in the meat and cook first on one side, then on the other, to a nice brown. The second method is that in use among the Creole chefs, restaurateurs and in the homes of the wealthier classes; the meat is completely immersed in the boiling lard as in frying fish or doughnuts. The intense heat quickly closes up the pores of the meat, and a brown crust is formed; the heat of the lard should be such that a piece of bread dropped into it becomes brown instantly. The lard should never be smoking. This ruins the meat and gives a burnt flavor. As soon as it begins to smoke lower the fire, but still keep it at a gentle boilling point. The half-frying method mentioned above is, however, the one most generally in use, and if followed properly, excellent results are obtained; indeed, many Creole chefs prefer it. There is another method that is very frequently used, which imparts a flavor similar to that of broiled meat This is to lay the meat in a thickbottomed frying pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Brown the meat quickly first on one side and then on the other; lay in a hot platter and season as you would broiled meat, Fried Meat—No. 2 Grillades.

The round of the meat is always selected for Grillades, and one steak will serve six persons. The steak is cut into pieces of about six or eight squares, and each piece is called a “grillade.” Season well with salt and pepper, rubbing these into the meat thoroughly and letting it soak well into the fibers. Have ready a hot pan, place therein a tablespoonful of lard, and, when hot, a _ sliced onion and one clove of garlic, chopped very fine. Let this brown, and then add one chopped tomato. Place the Grillades in this, letting them soak thoroughly. Cover with a tight cover, and set back, letting them fry slowly, so as to absorb all the lard and juices. Serve on a hot dish, when brown, with garnishes of parsley. This is the recipe for making Grillades without gravy. Some also fry simply in the boiling lard, using only a half tablespoonful, and letting it soak and absorb thoroughly after being well seasoned. This is a matter of taste.

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eee nnn CEU UE EIU NSIS Grillades With Gravy.

Grillades 4 la Sauce 1 Round Steak.

1 Tomato. 1 Large Onion.

Select a nice round steak and beat well. Cut into Grillades of about four inches square and season highly with salt and pepper and Cayenne. Put a tablespoonful of lard into the frying pan, and when it heats, add a chopped onion, one clove of garlic; and as these brown, add one tablespoonful of flour, making a Brown Roux. (See recipe under chapter “Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.”) Then add two tomatoes, sliced, with their juices, and as this browns lay the grillades upon it. Cover closely, and as it browns on one side, turn on the other. Then add a half tablespoonful of vinegar and a cup of water. Stir well and set back on the stove and let it simmer slowly for about a half hour. This is very nice served with hominy at breakfast, or with red or white beans and boiled rice at dinner. Again, the Grillades a la Sauce are made by frying the: grillades, after seasoning well, in half a tablespoonful of boiling lard. The lard must always be boiling, so that the meat juices may at once coagulate. After they are browned nicely on both sides, take the grillades out of the frying pan and set in a hot dish over a pot of boiling water and cover. Put half a tablespoon of lard into the frying pan, stirring well to detach all pieces of meat that may have adhered. Then add a chopped onion and brown, and a tablespoonful of flour or Glacé (see recipe under chapter “Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.”) and let this brown. Pour in a tablespoonful of vinegar and a cup of water, season well with salt, pepper and Cayenne, and let it boil till it reaches a nice consistency, which will be in about ten minutes. Pour over the grillades, and serve.

Grillades Breaded.

Grillades Panécs 1 Round of Veal.

1 Beaten Egg. % Cup of Bread Crumbs. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne.

The round of the veal is always used for this, Cut the veal into squares of about four inches; season well with salt, pepper and Cayenne. Beat an egg well and take each grillade and soak well in the egg, and then roll in bread crumbs grated. Have ready a pan of boiling grease, sufficient for the grillades to swim in, fry to a nice brown and serve very hot..

Left-Over Meat.

Left-over meat may be utilized in many delightful ways, such as “Boulettes,” ° “Boulards,” “Croquettes,” “Rissoles,” “Meat Soufflé’ and various forms of Hash. The following are the forms of preparation in use among the Creoles:

Meat Balls.

Boulctics 1 Pound of Raw or Left-Over, Meat. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. "1 Onion. Take one pound of steak from the upper round and mince and chop very fine. Add to it one tablespoonful of lemon juice, one onion (well grated), one tablespoonful of melted butter, and salt, black pepper and Cayenne, seasoning highly, and blend all thoroughly. Form the meat into balls using about two tablespoonfuls for each, which will allow six or eight balls or boulettes. Have ready a deep frying pan of lard, sufficient for the boulettes to swim, and fry to a nice brown, Take out and drain of. all grease, place on a hot platter and garnish with fried parsley, and serve The same directions may be used in making croquettes of meat, only the latter are formed into cylindrical shapes. If fried in butter, the boulettes, or croquettes, are very delicious, but they are nice either way if well seasoned, for their success depends upon this, Meat Balls—No. 2 Boulards.

Several Slices of Meat. (Raw or Cold Cooked.) 1 Tomato. 1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 1 Stalk of Celery. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1-Bay Leaf. 1° Sprig of Thyme. % Cup of Cracker Crumbs. A Pinch of Ginger.

Select slices of beef cut very thin from the round of the cross rib. Take one tomato, one onion, one carrot, a

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stalk of celery, several sprigs of parsley, one bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, three hard-boiled eggs, and chop very fine. Mix this with one tablespoonful of butter, a half cup of cracker crumbs and a pinch of ginger. Salt and pepper to taste. Take each slice of meat, and make a roll of it, folding the dressing within and folding over the edges that it may be retained. Tie each with thin twine. Have boiling lard or suet on the fire, drop in the boulards rolled in bread crumbs, set them back on the stove, cover well, and let them simmer gently for about two hours, adding a half cup of water to prevent scorching. Keep the pot covered. After two hours, drain the boulards well by laying them on heated brown paper; place them in a hot dish, garnish it with sliced hardboiled eggs, parsley and olives, and serve. Each boulard should be about the size of an egg.

Left-Over Meat.

Rissolce 4 Ounces of Cold Roast Beef or Veal, or Left-Over Meat of any Kind. 2 Ounces of Stale Bread, Wet and Squeezed Thoroughly.

% Teaspoonful of Minced Parsley. % Ounce of Flour.

1% Tablespoonfuls of Milk_or Water. ¥% Teaspoonful Each of Salt and Black Pepper. A Dash of Cayenne. 1 Bay Leaf, Chopped Fine with Sprigs of Parsley and Thyme.

Mince the meat finely and season well. Mix the ingredients thoroughly with it, adding, if you have it, minced Chaurice or sausage meat, or a little cold ham minced. Form it into balls, using two tablespoonfuls for each ball. Brush lightly with milk, toss in a little flour, pat to get off all superfluous flour, and brown nicely in boiling lard. Drain off all lard and serve on a platter, garnished with parsley sprigs. Meat Souffié.

Souglé de Boeuf 1 Cup of Cold Meat.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 1 Cup of Cold Milk. 2 Eggs.

Put two level tablespoons of butter into a frying pan, and when it is hot add two tablespoonfuls of flour, rubbing smoothly and letting it brown. Then add gradually one cup of cold milk. Stir this until it boils. Add one-half teaspoonful of salt; a little pepper and one cupful of chopped meat, or fowl, that has been left over. When this comes to a boil, add the yolks of two beaten eggs. Let it cook & moment longer and set to cool. Then beat the whites of the eggs, and when the meat mixture is cold, fold them in carefully. Turn this into a buttered dish and bake in a moderate oven twenty minutes. Serve as soon as removed from the fire. <A little grated nutmeg is a great addition, Beefsteak Pie.

Vol-au-Vent de Bocuf 1 Quart of Cold Cooked Meat. 2 Slices of Breakfast Bacon. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Dozen Thyme, Bay Leaf and Parsley. Make a nice pie crust. (See Plain Paste.) Line a baking pan with this, and bake in the oven. Cut the meat very fine, into dice, and season well, rubbing with the minced thyme, parsley, bay leaf and salt and pepper. Stew the meat as in Ragout de Veau a la Bourgeoise. Place in the pan. Dot the top with bits of butter, and place over all a layer of pie crust, decorating the edge nicely. Bake to a nice brown. Serve in the dish in which it was cooked, with any left-over sauce spread over the slices.

Potted Beef.

Terrine de Boeuf 2 Rounds of Beef.

1 Slice of Suet (Une Graisse de Boeuf). % can Mushrooms.

4 Yolks of Eggs. 1 Dozen Allspice. 4 Cloves.

Salt, Pepper and Cayenne.

Chop the slices of beef very fine with the suet, and season with the mashed spices, the herbs, minced very fine, and mix thoroughly with the beaten yolks of the eggs. Pour over all the water and mix. Line the bottom of the baking pan with strips of lean bacon and dot the beef on tor with bits of butter. Bake for two hours in a quick oven.

Hash.

Hachis 1 Quart of Cold Meat. 1 Onion. 1 Pint of Chopped Potatoes (Uncooked). 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. % of a Clove of Garlic.

Take the remains of cold roast, stew. bouilli, steaks or fowl and mince very

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fine. To every quart of meat allow one onion, a quarter of a clove of gBarlic, chopped fine, and one pint of chopped (uncooked) potatoes, and two hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine Mix all this with the minced meat, add salt, pepper and Cayenne to taste; put into a stewpan with a tablespoonful of butter or lard, and let it simmer gently. After ten minutes add @ half pint of hot water. Let it cook ten minutes longer and serve. The egg may be omitted.

Dry or Baked Hash Hachis Sec 1 Pint of Chopped Meat, Left-Over. % Pint of Water, or Left-Over Broth. 1 Pint of Cooked Chopped Tomatoes, 1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 1 Sprig of Parsley.

Chop and mince the meat very fine. Chop the potatoes fine, or in squareinch pieces. Mince the parsley, bay leaf, onion and garlic fine; mix all together with the meat and potatoes and season highly with pepper and Cayenne, salting to taste. Add the tablespoonful of butter and bake in @ moderate oven for about one hour. Hash on Toast.

Hachis sur Canapés 1 Quart of Cold Meat.

1 Pint of Boiling Water or Milk. Cut the left-over roast, bouilli or steak into small squares. To each pint of these little squares allow one tablespoonful of butter, one tablespoonful of flour and a half pint of boiling water.. Put the butter into a frying pan, and as it melts add the flour, being careful not to let it burn. When browned add the water, or, preferably, milk, and stir until it begins to boil, Then add the hashed and seasoned meat, and season again to taste. Set the hash on a moderate fire and let it simmer for fifteen minutes, In the meantime, toast elices of bread and butter them. Set chem in a hot dish, spread each slice with the hash very thickly and pour the sauce over and serve. The hash may be baked and spread on the toast and served with a sauce a l’Espagnole. Corn Ecef.

Boeuf au MtScl 3 Pounds of Corned Beef.

2 Carrots. 2 Turnips. 1 Stalk of Celery. 2 Onions. 1 Clove of Garlic. The best cut for this is the lower round of the beef, which is perfectly free from bone. Put the corn beef on to boil in a large pot of cold water. The pot should be well covered. When it begins boiling well, set it back to cook gently, and allow twenty-five minutes to each pound of beef. When within two hours of being cooked, add carrots, two turnips, a stalk of celery, two onions, one clove of garlic, chopped fine, and let these boil with the beef. Serve with the vegetables ranged whole around the dish. Corn beef is also served with cabbage, but never boil the cabbage in the beef as both will become indigestible. It should be as tender as spring chicken when done, Corn Beef Hash.

Hachis de Boeuf au Mi-Sel 1 Pint of Corn Beef, Cooked, and 1 Pint of Left-Over Potatoes. 1 Grated Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of 1 Cup of Broth or Water.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Parsley. Mix the meat thoroughly after mincing fine together with the chopped potatoes, Grate the onion and a half clove of garlic if desired, and chop the herbs fine and mix thoroughly with the beef, seasoning highly. Put the butter into the frying pan, add the meat and the broth or water and stir constantly till it boils. After it has cooked for about twenty minutes, put it on slices of buttered toast. Pour on it the gravy and garnish with sprigs of parsley and sliced Breaded Ox Tails.

Queues de Bocuf Panéce 2 Ox Tails.

1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. 8 Sprigs of Chopped Parsley. 3 Sprigs of Thyme.

1 Ege.

Wash the tails and break ‘hem at the joints; then cut again, into pieces of about four inches in length. Have @ pot of boiling water; season this well with chopped parsley, thyme, bay leaf and salt and pepper and Cayenne

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rrr eed to taste. Boil the ox tails till tender; when done remove from the fire and let them cool in the water in which they were boiled. Beat an egg well, roll the bits of tail in the egg and then roll in grated bread crumbs. Drop into a pot of boiling grease and fry to a golden brown. Take out and drain and serve with a Sauce & la Tartare, Ravigotte, Tomato or any Ox Tails & la Bourgeoise.

Queues de Boeuf 2 la Bourgeoise 2 Ox Tails.

2 Onions. 2 Carrots. 1 Turnip. % Can of Green Peas.

% Inch of Ham. 1 Tablespoonful of 2 Sprigs of Thyme.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Pint of Consomme or Boiling Water. Cut the ox tails into pieces of three or four inches in length. Chop two onions fine, and put the whole into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let them brown a little and add two large carrots, cut into dice, and one turnip cut the same way. Brown these with the ox tails. Add one-half inch of ham, ‘well chopped, and let it brown, and then add two sprigs of thyme and one bay leaf and one clove of garlic, chopped very fine. Let these ingredients all brown about two minutes over a hot fire. Then add one glass of water. Let all brown two minutes longer, and add one pint of consommé or boiling water. Season again to taste, and add a half can of Sreen peas. Let all boil until the ox tails are tender to the touch, and Broiled Kidneys, Brochettes de Rognons 3 Kidneys.

Chopped Parsley.

The kidneys must, first of all, be perfectly fresh. Wash them well and slice them; cut into thin pieces of about three inches long and two inches wide. Run a wooden or silver skewer through to hold them together, and Brush with a little butter, and put on a double broiler and brofl for about five minutes, turning over the broiler to allow each side to cook. Place on @ platter and pour over all melted butter, chopped parsley and lemon juice, and serve hot, as you would broiled steak.

Stewed Kidneys.

Rognons Sautés @ la Créole 3 Kidneys. 1% Cups of Water. % Spoon of Butter.

1 Sprig Each of Chopped Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf, Very Fine. Select perfectly fresh kidneys: wash them well, and then slice very thin. Season well with salt and pepper. Put one and a half tablespoonfuls of butter into the saucepan; when melted and very hot add the kidneys and chopped herbs, being very careful to stir constantly and very fast, to prevent burning. Add one and one-half cup of water or consommé. Let it boil up ‘once, and the kidneys are ready to be served. Kidneys are like eggs—they do not need much cooking, for the more they are cooked the harder they become. Five minutes should be sufficient to cook them well, and at no time should they be allowed to boil.

Broiled Liver.

Brochettes de Fote 1 Pound of Beef's Liver.

Wash and slice the liver into thin Pieces of about three inches in length and one-quarter inch in thickness, brush lightly with butter, and string on skewers with alternate slices of bacon. Broil: as you would a tenderloin steak for about five minutes in a double broiler and serve with a sauce of melted butter and chopped parsley. Fried Liver & la Lyonnaise. Foie Sautécs @ la Lyonnatee 1 Pound of Beef Liver.

Slice the onions nicely. Put one tablespoonful of butter into the frying pan and add the onions. When brown, take the liver which you have cut into slices of about three inches in length and one-half inch in thickness, and season well with salt and pepper, and lay it over the onions. Stir well. Cover and let it fry for about three

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ee ee} minutes, and then turn over and let it cook three minutes more. Pour on it a teaspoonful of vinegar and again season to taste. Let it simmer three or four minutes longer and serve hot. Liver does not take very long to cook.

Jellied Tongue.

Langue de Boeuf en Gcléc.

1 Beef Tongue. 2 Calf's Feet. 4 Pints of Strong Consommé. Spices.

* Parboil the tongue and calf’s feet. Then skin and clean the tongue well, and take the bones out of the calf’s feet. Mince two onions very fine, and fry them in a tablespoonful of butter. Let them brown, and lay on these the well-seasoned tongue and calf’s feet. Let them simmer ten minutes, and then add one and one-half pints of consommé. Let smother, keeping well well covered, for an hour and a half. Then take the tongue out, and let the calf's feet cook and reduce a half hour longer. After this add the tongue for two minutes longer. Put all into a Smothered Tongue.

Langue de Boeuf Braisée 1 Fresh Tongue of Beef.

1% Pints of Liquor in Which the Tongue Was Boiled.

2 Onions, Minced Very Fine. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Cloves.

Parboil the tongue for about ten minutes. Then skin and clean well. Chop an onion very fine, and brown this in a tablespoonful of butter. When brown, add the tongue, which you will have arranged by fastening the thick part to the tip with a skewer, as for roast beef. Let it cook, smothering slowly, for fifteen minutes, and then add another onion sliced nicely. Let this brown, and add one square inch of ham, well chopped, two carrots sliced, and a bay leaf, and two sprigs of thyme, minced fine. Brown again, and add a pint of broth. Season well, and let it smother for one hour and a half longer, turning. every quarter, so that every part may cook thoroughly. Serve with the bow! or dish, and let it cool. You will sauce in which it was cooked, or with have a delicious jelly, a Sauce Piquante. (See recipe.) CHAPTER XIII VEAL Du Veau The loin, filet, shoulder and breast of the veal are used for roasting. Chops are cut from the loin, and the leg is used for filets and cutlets. The filet of veal is quite different from the filet of beef, and does not, in any manner, correspond to the latter, being a solid piece cut from the legs of the young calf. The knuckle is the lower part of the leg after the cutlets are taken off, and, with the neck, is used extensively for making stews, soups and veal pies. Indeed, as far as stews are concerned, the Creoles never make a “beef stew” or very rarely, the meat of beef being considered too tough. Never buy veal that is very young, for young meats, as a rule, are not nutritous; but the cuts of older veal when properly cooked, as the Creoles know how, will surely never be unwholesome or indigestible. A calf should never be killed until it is at least two months old, and then the meat has a pinkish tinge, and is firm and the bones are hard. Calf that has been killed too young may be known by the bluish tinge and the soft, flabby flesh, and small, tender bones.

The Creole cooks always pound the veal almost to a pulp. This renders it very tender and digestible. Veal must always be well cooked, and cooked very slowly, else it will be hard, tough and unfit for food,

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Roast Lom of Veal.

Longe de Veau Roétie 4 Pounds of Veal.

Sprigs of Parsley and Sliced Lemon to jarnish, Trim off the veal very carefully the heavier portion of the fat, leaving enough, however, to render it swect and juicy. If freshly cut, and not handled too much by the butcher, merely wipe the loin with a damp towel. Then dredge it thickly with salt and pepper, and separate the articulations or joints, that the meat may cook thoroughly. Rub well with a tablespoonful of butter or lard, and Place in a very quick oven for about fifteen minutcs. Then decrease the heat somewhat and cover the veal with a piece of brown buttered paper and let it cook slowly, allowing at least twenty minutes to each pound of veal. Keep the oven at a steady, regular heat. About twenty minutes before serving take off the buttered paper and let the roast brown nicely, increasing the fire a little. Take out, place on a hot dish, garnish nicely with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon. Serve with its own gravy. The practice of making a gravy with flour for roast beef and roast veal cannot be too severely condemned. Meat is always best when served in its own juice, if roasted or Roast Veal with Fine Herbs. Carré de Veau Roti aur Finvs Herbes A_4-Pound Filet of Veal.

1 Cup of Broth or Water.

1 Onion. 3 Bay Leaves.

2 Sprigs of Sweet Marjoram. 3 Sprigs of Thyme.

% Teaspoonful Each of Ground Cloves, Mace and Allspice.

Have the butcher cut the filet of veal square, wipe with a damp towel and then take one tablespoonful of lard and dredge the roast nicely. Scason well with salt and Cayenne; mince the onion, bay leaf, marjoram, parsley and thyme, and mix these with the ground spices; add the juice cf a lemon, and pour all over the meat. Place in a quick oven for about fifteen minutes, After this, lessen the heat, place on top of the veal a buttered piece of brown paper, and let it roast slowly, allowing twenty minutes for each pound of veal. When almost done take off the paper and let the roast brown nicely for twenty minutes longer. Then take the roast out of the gravy and place in a hot dish in the oven. Now stir the gravy well, mixing all the herbs that have run out of the beef. Add one cup of broth or water and the juice of one lemon, and mix this thoroughly. Grate some bread crumbs, beat well in one egg, and pour this over the veal, let it brown nicely and serve with the Filet of Veal with Mushrooms or Filet de Veau auz Champignons ou aus Truffes 1 Filet of Veal.

% Can of Mushrooms or Truffles. 1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 4 Cloves (if desired).

1 Tablespoonful of Glacé (see recipe) ner as for Filet of Beef Larded, with Mushrooms or Truffles, only do not lard the veal. Allow the veal to cook much longer, for it must be well done, twenty minutes to the pound being a good guide always in roasting veal. (See recipe for Filet of Beef Larded with Mushrooms or Truffles.) Stuffed Roast Shoulder or Breast of Veal.

Epaule ou Pottrine de Veau Farcie 1 Shoulder of Veal. % Pound of Ham. 1 Hard-Botled Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Spoon of Flour. (if the shoulder of veal is used, have the butcher remove the bone.) When ready to cook, wipe well with @ damp towel, and then dredge with salt and pepper, seasoning highly. Make a dressing by taking one cup of stale bread, wet and squeezed, onequarter pound of sliced ham, or salt pork, preferably the ham, and chop very fine. Mix this with the bread and season highly with hot pepper. according to taste; 1 carrot, 1 onion, 1 bay leaf, 1 hard-boiled egg, 1 sprig of thyme, 1 of rfarsley, all minced very fine. Add one tablespoonful of butter, and place in a frying pan; let it fry for about ten minutes and then add one cup of water and cook five minutes. Then stuff the shoulder well and skewer the filet to prevent the dressing from falling out in cooking.

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rrr ———SSSFSFSSSFSFSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSs It is well to tie the veal at either end with a piece of twine. Take one tablespoonful of lard and dredge roast according to preceding recipes. If the breast of the veal is used, make long gashes between the ribs and fill with a dressing prepared as above; place in the baking pan and roast slowly, according to directions. When finished cooking, remove the shoulder or breast, and stir the gravy well, adding a cup of broth or water and the juice of one lemon and a teaspoonful of butter, seasoning to taste. Serve with the roast. Some like the addition of a teaspoonful of prepared mustard, but that is a matter of taste. Veal Cutlets Breaded.

Cotelettcs de Veau Panéce 6 Veal Cutlets.

1 Egg. 1 Cup of Bread Crumbs. Lemon and Parsley to Garnish. Sauce A la Maitre d’Hétel. Have the cutlets cut thin. Season well with salt and pepper. Beat an egg well and roll the cutlets in the egg, then roll in bread crumbs. Drop in boiling lard and fry to a nice golden brown. Take out, drain off the lard, place on a heated dish and serve with garnish of parsley and sliced lemon and a Sauce a la Maitre d’Hotel. (See recipe.) The addition of a little lemon juice adds to the flavor when eating the cutlets.

Veal Cutlets en Papttlotes. Cételcttes de Veau en Paptlotes 6 Veal Cutlets.

A Half-Pound of Pork Sausage Meat. % Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful 1 Clove Garlic.

Use for this young and tender veal cutlets, cut very fine. Fry the chops, after seasoning well in butter, very slowly, and, when cooked, take out of the frying pan and put in a dish. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a deep frying pan. Add a half pound of sausage meat and a half can of mushrooms, chopped very fine. Mix well, and season with salt and pepper. Add a minced clove of garlic, and let it all cook five minutes. Take pieces of white foolscap paper, cut them in cone or pyramidal shapes of the size of the cutlets, fold the edges very nicely, doubling the paper to form a half diamond or cone. Then oil the paper well with sweet oil. Take the stuffing of sausage ‘meat and put a layer on one side of the fold of each cone. Lay the chop diagonally across this, so that the end reaches the tip of the cone, and spread over this another layer of the stuffing. Fold the paper over neatly around the edges and then oil well again on the outside. Bake in an oven or lay. on top of a gridiron and broil until brown. This will be in about five minutes. They will need no gravy, the ofl having slightly permeated, and the chops being kept delicate and juicy by the dressing. Serve hot in the papers or papillotes, the guests removing them at the table. This is a very dainty way of serving veal cutlets, and the only way of serving them in papillotes. Veal Cutlets Breaded and Broiled. Cétclettes de Veau Panéce et Grilléce 6 Veal Cutlets. 1 Ege.

1 Cup of Bread Crumbs.

Parsley Sprigs.

Melted Butter or uce & la Ravigotte. Have the cutlets as thin as possible. Season highly, after beating with the rolling-pin, and roll in a weilbeaten egg and then in bread crumbs. Pat lightly with the hands and brush with melted butter. Place on a double broiler and broil on a very slow fire till no blood exudes. Serve with drawn butter sauce poured over or a Sauce & la Ravigotte. (See recipe.) Garnish the dish nicely with parsley sprigs. Cutlets of Veal a la Milanaise. Cotelettes de Veau & la Milanatse 6 Veal Cutlets. 1 Egg.

1 Cup of Bread Crumbs.

A Bed of Macaroni or Spaghetti. Tomato Sauce.

Prepare as above, and serve the cutlets on a bed of boiled macaroni or spaghetti and pour over the whole a Tomato Sauce, Veal Cutlets Smothered & la Créole Cotelettes de Veau Ftouffées ou Braisés @ la Créole 6 Veal Cutlets.

6 Onions, Sliced Fine. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. Pepper and Salt to Taste.

Cut off the outer skin of the cutlets, and season well with salt and pepper.

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a Dredge with flour. Place the tablespoonful of lard in a deep frying pan and let it melt. Then lay in the sliced onions, and over these lay the cutlets. Cover closely, Let them simmer over a hot fire for a few minutes, and then turn the cutlets on the other side. After three minutes, add two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, chopped Parsley, thyme and bay leaf and a clove of garlic. Turn the veal, letting the flour brown well, and keep the pot closely covered. When brown, pour over all one cup of water, or a pint, which will be enough to cover the meat. Bring this to a brisk boil and set the pot back where it can simmer gently for about two hours. Serve with a nice garnish of parsley or radishes,.

N Veal Daube & la Creole.

Daube Froide @ la Crécle 4 Pounds of Veal Rumn.

2 Pig's Feet. Pound of Salt Fat Meat. 5 rge Onions.

2 Turnips.

5 Carrots. 2 Cloves of Garlic. Leaves.

3 Sprigs of Thyme and Parsley. Cut the salt meat into shreds, roll well in Cayenne and black pepper. Chop finely several sprigs of thyme and three bay leaves, one clove of garlic, three sprigs of parsley, and mash well three cloves and six allspice. Roll the strips of salt meat, which must be about three inches in length and one-half inch thick, in this. Make incisions into the rump of meat and force in the strips of fat meat and the spices. Then rub the whole well with salt and pepper, judging according to taste, and proceed to cook according to the recipe for Beef & la Mode. (See recipe Beef & la Mode.) Let the daube cook about four hours when you intend to serve it cold.

In the meantime, in another pot, place a two pound veal steak and two or three pig’s feet. Season well with salt and pepper and Cayenne, cover well with four quarts of water, and let it all boil. Add one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, one-half clove of garlic and one onion, all minced very fine, and two cloves mashed into almost a jelly. Tet these boil well with the veal and pig's feet. Then, when the veal and pig's feet are cooked very tender, take them 3 Bay out of the pot and mince the meat of each very fine; return to the sauce, and again season highly, according to taste, for the flavor depends upon the Piquant seasoning. After the daube has cooked four or five hours, take off the stove, pour over it the sauce and set all in a cool place. Serve the next day—cold, cutting into thin slices. It will all have formed a jelly that is most delicious and appetizing. If the flank is used, have it boned by the butcher, removing the little flat bones and all the gristle. In this case, trim it evenly and make a forcemeat of sausage, 1 cup, grated fine: bread crumbs, 1 cup, wet and squeezed; 1 clove of garlic or 1 grated onion, all minced very fine; 1 hardboiled egg, 1 sprig of thyme and bay leaf, minced fine. Mix all thoroughly with the sausage meat and the bread; fry in a tablespoonful of butter for about five minutes; stuff the flank of veal, and then proceed in exactly the same manner as above indicated. Fricandeau of Veal.

Fricandeau de Veau A Rump of Veal of 2 Pounds Weight. 1 Pint of Broth.

2 Onions. 2-Carrots.

% Dozen Slices of Bacon.

% Can of Green Peas_or Mushrooms. Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf.

For this take one whole piece of the rump of the veal, cut about two inches in thickness, and about the size of a large saucepan or frying pan in length and width. Lard the beef well with larding needles, and rub well with salt and pepper. Then slice two onions, two carrots, two sprigs of thyme and two bay leaves, and a halt dozen slices of thinly-sliced fat bacon, two inches long and about the thickness of a dollar. Place the bacon in etrips in the bottom of the saucepan, and lay over this a layer of the sliced carrots and onions. Put about a dozen little dots of lard over this at intervals, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Lay the veal on top of this, and then cover up with a layer of the sliced onions and carrots, and lay strips of bacon on top. Cut a piece of paper the size of the sauce pan, and cover it up. Place ina warm oven, and let it bake three-quarters of an hour very slowly. Watch it carefully. When done, take out the meat and place it in a dish. Take the sauce and let it

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ES boil with the vegetables a moment. Then add one pint of broth or water, and let it cook well. Strain after it boils fifteen minutes. It will have become a very fine gravy. Add, if desired, a half can of mushrooms, or a half can of green peas, and let it boll for ten minutes longer. Then add the Fricandeau of Veal and let it warm well for about ten minutes and it is ready for the table. This is a most excellent family dish. Stewed Veal.

Ragoat de Vcau a‘la Bourgeoise 3 Pounds of Brisket of Veal. 2 Large 2 Carrots. 2 Pints of Boiling Water. % Can of Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Sweet Marjoram.

The brisket of the veal or the neck is best for stews, preferably the brisket. Cut it into pieces of about 1% inches square, put a tablespoonful of lard in the stew pot, and when hot throw in the veal, which has been well seasoned with salt and black pepper. Let it brown, and then add the onions and carrots, which have been chopped fine, and one clove of garlic, minced very fine. Let this brown, and then add one tablespoonful of flour, sifted well, and let this brown nicely; add two pints of boiling water and one can of tomatoes and a bay leaf, chopped very fine, and salt and pepper again to taste, adding, if desired, a dash of Cayenne. Many of the Creoles add a teaspoonful of vinegar. Set the stew back on the stove and cover closely. Let it simmer slowly for an hour and a half, or until the meat is perfectly tender. Then serve hot. Stewed Veal With Potatoes. Ragoat de Veau auz Pommes de Terre 1 Brisket or Knuckle of Veal. 2 Small Potatoes. 2 Large Onions. 2 Carrots.

1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Bay Leaf. Sweet Marjoram.

Proceed in the same manner as for Ragout de Veau a la Bourgeoise. Just before adding the water add the potatoes, which have been peeled and cut into quarters or halves, according to size, Add the boiling water after they are in the stew about ten minutes, and set back, allowing it to simmer for an. hour and a half, or until very tender. Stewed Veal With Mushrooms, Ragoat de Veau auw Champignons 3 Pounds of Brisket of Veal. 2 Large 2 Carrots. 2 Pints of Boiling Water. 1 Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful 1 Tablespoonfu! of Lard, 1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Sweet Marjoram.

The brisket of the veal or the neck is best for stews, preferably the brisket. Cut it into pieces of about 1% inches square, put a tablespoonful of lard in the stewpot, and, when hot, throw in the veal, which has been well seasoned with salt and black pepper. Let it brown, and then add the onions and carrots, which have been chopped fine, and one clove of garlic, minced very fine. Let this brown, and then add one tablespoonful of flour, sifted well. When this browns nicely add two pints of boiling water and one can of mushrooms whole, and a bay leaf, chopped very fine, and salt and pepper again to taste, adding, if desired, a dash of Cayenne. Set the stew on a slow fire and cover closely. Let it simmer slowly for an hour and a half, or until the meat is perfectly tender. Then serve hot. This is a very delightful dish.

Cream of Veal.

Créme de Veau 3 Cups of Chopped Veal. 1 Cup of Chopped Ham.

% Cup of Cream Sauce.

Utilize in this the left-over filet of veal. Chop very fine and add one cup of minced ham. Prepare a Cream Sauce (see recipe under “Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.”) in the proportions to make just a half cup. Season the chopped veal with this, add a dash of Cayenne and grated nutmeg, spread upon hot buttered toast, and serve at breakfast. Chicken and mutton may be prepared in the same way.

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Veal en Rata:oullle.

Ratatouille de Veau @ la Créole 4 Pounds of Brisket of Veal. % Pound of Ham.

% Can of Tomatoes, or 6 Fresh. 4 Dozen Fresh Okra. 2 Large Onions. 2 Sweet Potatoes. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne.

Cut the veal into pieces of about three inches in length and two in width. Cut the ham into dice shape, and the sweet potatoes, after peeling. into cubes of about one and a half inches. Use a half sweet pepper pod, if possible, being careful to extract all the seeds. Season the veal highly. Put a tablespoonful of lard into the stewpot (butter is nicer, if it can be afforded), add the veal and let it brown nicely; then add the ham, the sweet potatoes and the pepper pod, and let them simmer gently for about fifteen minutes. In the meantime, prepare the following sauce: Drop a tablespoonful of butter into a sauceFan, and when it melts add the chopped onions, and as they brown nicely, the minced herbs and garlic, and then the tomatoes sliced and chopped, in their own liquor. Let them cook for about fifteen minutes, and then add them to the stewing veal; mix thoroughly and set on a slow fire, covering tightly, letting it simmer slowly and constantly, with a regular fire, for about two hours Then add the okra, which has been tipped and sliced very thinly; let the mixture simmer for a half hour longer, and serve.

Veal Patties or Veal Loaf. Patés de Veau ou Pain de Veau 3 Pounds of Veal Cutlets.

3 Yolks of Eggs, beaten light. 6 Crackers.

Chopped Parsley, Thyme and Bay Leaf. 1 Pound of Lean Ham. The Juice of 1 Stew the veal, and then powder the crackers very fine. Mince the cutlets, the herbs and the ham very fine. Season ‘well with salt and pepper, and mix with the bread crumbs and beaten eggs. Use a clove of garlic if the taste be desired; and juice of one lemon. With the whole form nice little loaves of pie shape, smooth over the top with butter, brush with egg, beaten well, sprinkle with crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven, placing a buttered paper over the patties. The loaf may be formed whole, cut in thin slices and served cold.

Blanquette of Veal.

Blanquette de Veau 3 Pounds of Veal Brisket.

2 Onions. 1 Carrot. % Can of MushYolks of 2 Eggs. Juice of 1 Lemon % Gallon of Water.

Cut the brisket of veal into pieces two inches square, put it in a stewpot and cover with a half gallon of water. and add salt and pepper and two onions and one carrot, chopped fine. Let it boil till very tender. When it reaches this stage. take the meat out of the saucepan, keeping the water in which it was boiled. Put a tablespoonful of butter in another saucepan and as it melts add a tablespoonful of flour. Mix well, continuing to dissolve till it becomes a smooth cream; do not let it brown, Add one pint of the water in which the veal was boiled. Stir well, making it very light, and not thick, Add one-halt can of mushrooms, and let the whole boil about fifteen minutes, so as to be very light. Then put in the cooked veal, letting it simmer for about fifteen minutes longer. Take it off the fire, add the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, with two tablespoonfuls of the gravy and the juice of one lemon. Jellicd Veal.

Noiz de Veau @ la Gclée The Filet or Part of Lower Shoulder Blade of Veal.

6 Peppercorns, 2 Calf's Feet. 1 Blade of Mace. 2 Large Onions. 2 Carrots. 1_Gill of French Vinegar.

1 Dozen Cloves Mashed Fine. 4 Allspice Mashed _ Fine.

3 Quarts of Beef Broth.

Cut the veal into fine pieces, season well, and put it in a kettle with the calf's feet, seasoning highly with pepper, (ayenne and salt to taste. Add three quarts of beef broth, or “pot-au-feu.” Add the minced vegetables, hirbs and the peppercorns, and let it boil gently until it forms a jelly, which will be in about two and a half hours. Then take out the veal and calf's feet, very carefully

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SS remove all the bones, if any, and Place in a mold. Let the liquor in which it was boiled cook until it is reduced to about a quart, adding, in the meantime, a gill of vinegar. When ready, pour it over the meat, and set it in a cold place over night. When cold, turn out of the mold and garnish nicely with sliced lemon and parsley sprigs and serve in slices. Veal With Olives, Veau auz Olives A Flank of Veal.

1 Slice of Cold Boiled Ham. 1 Grated Onion. 1 Hard-Boiled Egg. 1 Lemon. _1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Dozen Stoned Olives. ' This is a very old-fashioned Creole dish. Get a flank of veal and cut it into strips of about four inches in length and four in width. Cut off sufficient to make a half cup, and chop this fine, with a slice of cold boiled ham, Make a mince meat, adding chopped herbs, according to taste, one grated onion, one hardboiled egg, the juice of one lemon and a tablespoonful of butter, with a half cup of bread crumbs. Take the strips of veal, stuff them nicely with this mixture and roll over the ends, tying to prevent the farcie from escaping. Place a tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan, and, when it heats, add the rolls of veal. Let them fry for ten minutes, turning, amd then add soup broth sufficient to cover them. Cover closely and set on a low fire and let them simmer steadily but slowly for an hour longer; then place them in a hot dish, pour the gravy over, seasoning highly; add about two dozen stoned olives and serve hot. Veal Pot Pie.

Vol-au-Vent de Veau A Veal Brisket.

2 Slices of Breakfast Bacon or Ham. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Dozen Thyme, Bay Leaf and Parsley. Salt, Pepper an Cayenne to Taste. This is a famous dish among the Creoles with large families. For a family of six get a veal brisket, and allow three parts of minced veal to one of ham. ’ Make a nice pie crust. (See Plain Paste.) Line a baking pan with this, and bake in the oven. Cut the meat very fine, into dice, and season highly, rubbing with the minced thyme, parsley, bay leaf, a little salt, pepper and Cayenne. Stew the meat as in Ragott de Veau a la Bourgeoise. Place in the pan. Dot the top with bits of crust, decorating the edges nicely. Bake to a fine brown. Serve in the dish in which it was cooked, with any left-over sauce spread over the slices. Veal Croquettes, Croqucttcs de Veau % of a Pound of Cold (Cooled) Veal. 1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Onion. 1 Cup of Milk.

Cayenne and Pepper to Taste. This is an excellent way of utilizing left-over veal. Remove all the tough fibers and nerves. Hash the veal well and season with the minced vegetables and sweet herbs, mixing all thoroughly. Then take a cup of the inside of the bread, wet it, squeeze, and soak in milk, in which you have beaten two eggs. Mix all this with the meat very thoroughly and season to taste. When well mixed, form the meat into cylindrical shapes and brush with a little butter. Then roll in a beaten egg and roll again in powdered bread crumbs. Fry in boiling lard and serve hot on a plate garnished with fricd parsley. Calf's Head & la Poulette. Téte de Veau @ la Poulette 1 Calf's Head. Yolk of 1 Egg. 1 Lemon. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. Sauce A la Poulette.

Clean and prepare the calf's head as in the recipe given for “Calf’s Head Soup.” (See recipe.) Then boil it according to recipe. Cut one lemon fine and add to the boiling calf head, which, it must be noted, has been boiled simply in water, salt and pepper. Add two tablespoonfuls of good vinegar and let it cook till done. This is either used to make a mock turtle soup or is served with a Sauce a la Poulctte, as follows: Make a Sauce & la Poulette. (See recipe.) Put the ealf's hezd in the sauce and let it boil for a half hour. Beat the yolk of one egg as you would for an omelet. Add to the calf’s head and serve. This will give the sauce a fine golden color. Calf's head may also be served with a Sauce Allemande. (See recipe.)

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EI £& ———— ESS Calf’s Head & la Tortue.

Téte de Veau @ la Tortue 1 Calf’s Head. 2 Large Onions. % Can of Mushrooms. 1 Lemon. Thyme and Bay Leaf.

2 Eggs. 1 Pint of Consomme or Water. Slice the onions and mince the garlic. Put the butter into a stewpot, and as it melts add the onions and let them brown; then add the garlic and let it come to a rich brown. Add one tablespoonful of flour, sifted well, and, as this becomes brown, add one pint of consommé, or water if you have not the broth. Then put in the chopped thyme, bay leaf and the peel of one lemon, cut very fine with the juice. Let all this simmer for about ten minutes and then cut up the calf’s head and add it to the mixture. After fif_ teen minutes add a half can of mushrooms. Let it all cook about ten minutes, and then season well, according to taste. Let it cook about half an hour longer, and, when ready to serve, place the calf’s head in the middle of the dish, pour the gravy over it and spread the mushrooms around. Garnsh the dish with bits of a flat + omelet, which you have made from the two eggs, and cut into diamond shapes, alternating with toast buttered and cut into diamond-shaped Crottons.

Calves’ Brains, Brown Butter Sauce. Cervelles de Veau au Beurre Noir Calves’ Brains, 1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley. Sauce au Beurre Noir.

Prepare the brains as mentioned above by boiling, then place them in a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of butter. Cut up a tiny onion, and add also a sprig of thyme, bay leaf and parsley, all minced very fine. Add to the butter, then put in the brains cut in slices a half inch thick. Season again to taste. Fry for five minutes, and serve with a Sauce au Beurre Noir. (See recipe.) Calves’ Brains Fried.

Cervelles de Veau Frites Calves’ Brains. 1 Onion, 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. Plunge the brains into cold water to disgorge them of all bloouw and remove the fine skin and veins that surround them. Then blanch with scalding water. In five minutes take them out of the hot water and put them into a saucepan and cover with cold water. Adda tiny onion, sliced fine; parsley and bay leaf, whole. Let them simmer gently for five minutes. Then take from the fire and drain. When cold, cut into pieces an inch square, dip these in a batter or tomato sauce, and then in grated bread crumbs, patting gently. Drop into boiling lard and fry to a golden brown. Take out and drain of grease and serve on a bed of fried parsley. A garnish of toiled green peas is also very pretty and palatable. Calves’ Liver Fried.

Fote de Veau Suuté a la Lyonnaise 1 Pound of Liver. 2 Onions. 1 Tabl-spoonful of Lard or Butter. Slice the liver very fine into pieces of about three inches in length and one in width. Season well with salt and pepper. Put a tablespoonful of lard or butter into the frying pan and when it is hot, add the sliced onions, and, as they brown, place on top the slices of liver. Let them brown on one side about two minutes and a half, and then turn on the other. Let this side brown and serve with the onion sauce, to which add a teaspoonful of Fried Liver and Bacon.

Fote de Veau Frit au Petit Salé 1 Pound of Calf's Liver.

% Pound of Breakfast Bacon. % Teaspnoonful of Sal Black Pepper to Taste.

Slice the liver into pieces of about three inches in length and one-quarter of an inch in thickness; slice the bacon very thin, having as many slices as there are of liver. Put the bacon in the frying pan and fry. brown; then place it in a heated dish and set over a pot of boiling water, covering it to keep warm. Dust the liver with flour, after having seasoned well with salt and pepper and fry it in the bacon fat. When it has cooked two minutes and a half to each side, take it out and arrange it on the same dish with the bacon in alternate slices. Garnish nicely with parsley and serve.

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ES ee Calf's Liver & la Bourgeoise. Foie de Veau Sauté 2 la Bourgeoise 1 Calf’s Liver. 1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 4 Turnip. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Pint of Broth or Water.

Wash the liver and lard it well with needles. Put a tablespoonful of lard or butter into the frying pan, and when hot, add immediately the onion, carrot and turnip, all sliced very fine, and then the fine herbs, nicely minced. Let these brown, and add the liver. Add about a pint of consommé or boiling water. Season highly, cover the saucepan well, set it on a low fire, let it simmer for about half an hour, Calf’s Feet, Plain.

Pieds de Veau au Naturel 3 Quarts of Cold Water. 1 Gill of Vinegar.

1 Onion. 1 Carrot.

12. Whole Pepper Corns.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Salt.

Split each of the calf's feet in two, then carefully remove the larger bones, and cut the meat into pieces of about one inch square. Soak well in fresh water for one hour. Then wash and drain thoroughly. Put two tablespoonfuls of flour and three quarts of cold water into a saucepan; stir well, mixing thoroughly; place the feet in the mixture and add one onion (chopped fine), twelve whole peppers, one carrot cut into fine shreds; the herb bouquet and two tablespoonfuls of salt. Let the feet boil briskly for about one hour. Take from the fire and driin well. They are now ready to serve with any sauce that may be Calf’s Fect & la Poulette. © Pieds de Veau @ la Poulctte 1 Tablespoonful of Sifted Lard. 1 Pint of Water. % Can of Mushrooms. Yolk of 1 Egg. Juice of 1 Lemon. Boll the calf’s feet; then take out the larger bones and cut in pieces of about an inch square. Prepare a Sauce & la Poulette by putting one tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and, as it melts, add two tablespoonfuls of sifted flour, and about one pint of the water in which the calf’s feet have been boiled. Stir well and throw in the calf’s feet, salt and pepper to taste, and, if desired, about a quarter of a can of chopped mushrooms Let it boil about five minutes, and then take off the stove and add the yolk of an egg (beaten well), the juice of one lemon, and serve.

Calf’s Feet, Tomato Sauce. Pteds de Veau, Sauce Tomate A Sauce & la Tomate (1 Pint). Prepare the feet as in the recipe “Calf’s Feet, Plain,” and pour over, when ready to serve, a Sauce a la Tomate. (See recipe.) Calf’s Feet, Piquante Sauce. Piede de Veau, Sauce Piquante 1 Pint of Sauce Piquante.

Prepare the calf’s feet as in recipe for “Calf's Feet, Plain,” and add, when ready to serve, one pint of Sauce Piquante. (See recipe.) Calf’s Fect, Sauce Rémoulade. Pieds de Veau @ la Sauce Rémoutade Sauce Rémoulade, 1 Pint.

Prepare the feet as in the recipe for “Calf's Feet, Plain,” and pour over, when ready to serve, one pint of hot Sauce Rémoulade. (See recipe.) Calf’s Feet, Italian Sauce. Pteds de Veau @ la Sauce Italienne 1 Pint of Sauce A I'Italienne. Prepare the feet as in the recipe for “Calf's Feet, Plain,” and serve with one pint of Sauce & I’Italienne. (See SWEETBREADS.

Ris de Veaw Sweetbreads are the glands used by the calf in sucking, and are found only in the young calf during the. period when it is fed on its mother's milk, When a calf is turned out to grass, the sweetbreads, or milk glands, begin to grow smaller, and in three or four days disappear, no longer standing out in a mass of delicate flesh, but hanging long and soft and flabby. On account of their delicacy, sweetbreads have always been the de-

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er ren nee reenter eee light of all expert and genuine French cuisiniéres, because, in a fine fresh state and with proper preparation they can be made not only into a delightful and palatable dish, but are, perhaps, the most recherché of all How to Blanch Sweetbreads. Select three fine pairs of sweetbreads and clean and trim _ nicely. Soak them for at least two and a half hours in cold, fresh water, pouring off the water from time to time till three separate waters have been used. About three-quarters of an hour may be allowed for the first two waters. Add a pinch of salt to each water. After soaking for the time specified, drain the sweetbreads and place them in a saucepan of cold water and set on the fire; add a half teaspoonful of salt, and let them blanch till they come to a boil. Then drain and set them in cold water to freshen. Drain thoroughly, press them into shape and lay on a napkin in a cool place. They are now ready for general use. The sweetbreads should be pressed down gently with a pound weight, in order to flatten them well.

Sweetbreads Larded, With Mushroom Ris de Veau Piqués auw Champignons 6 Sweetbreads. 1 Carrot.

4 Thin Slices of Bacon.

1 Onion. % Can of Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.

1 Whole Sprig of Thyme. 3 Bay Leaves.

1 Pint of Consommé.

Salt and Pepper. Crodtons. Soak the sweetbreads in clear, cold water as soon as you come from market, for they are so delicate that they spoil very easily. Wash well, to take off all the blood; wash again in clear cold water, and parboil them for ten minutes. Then drain them well, press them into shape and put them on a clean cloth on a table and cover with a plank weighted down to flatten them out. When cold, clean with a knife, cutting off all the outside nerves, veins and fibers, without breaking the sweetbreads, however. Cut fat lard into Httle strips like matches, and, with a larding needle, lard the sweetbreads, slipping the needle in on one side and bringing out on the other. Lard each sweetbread elght times Then slice one onion and one carrot very fine; mince three bay leaves and a whole sprig of thyme. Take a very thin slice of very fat bacon, cut it into thin strips and cover the bottom of the sauce pan with these. Lay the sweetbreads on top and put on top of these the sliced onion, carrot and finely minced herbs. Salt and pepper by sprinkling nicely. Cover this with a few fine strips of fat bacon. Cover the whole with a brown paper, which has been well greased with butter, and put the pan in a slow oven with the paper on top. Let the sweetbreads bake for about twenty minutes, basting occasionally. In the meantime make a Sauce & !'Espagnole as follows: Chop a few pieces of beef very fine, or else use good stock. If meat is used, boil it in two pints of water. When it is reduced to about one pint, take off and strain. Brown lightly a tablespoonful of butter or lard with a tablespoonful of flour. Then add the water and dissolve well, stirring constantly to prevent its being lumpy. Add to this a half can of mushrooms, letting all simmer a few minutes, then cook it rapidly for about ten minutes. In the meantime, the sweetbreads will have been cooked to a@ nicety. Take them out of the pan put them one by one into the sauce, and let them cook ten minutes longer. Serve with buttered CroQtons cut in dice shapes. Sweetbreads are always eaten with fresh young green peas. Sweetbreads With Green Peas. Rie de Veau Sautés auz Pctit Pois 1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 4 Slices of Fat Bacon.

1 Can of French -Petit_Pois, or 1 Pint of Fresh Young Green Peas. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Cloves. % Pint of Fresh Milk. 1 Pint of Consommé.

Croatons, Prepare the Sweebreads as in the above recipe, which is the very nicest way in which they can be served. Make the sauce as directed, letting it brown slightly, adding, instead of the mushrooms, a can of French Petit Pois or a pint of fresh young green peas that have already been boiled well and drained from all liquor. Place the sweetbreads in one by one and let them cook for ten minutes

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Ol longer and serve them in the center of the dish, with the green peas as a Sweetbreads With Truffles. Ris de Veau aus Truffes 4 Slices of Fat Bacon. Can of Truffies. 1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 1% Pints of Consommé or Water. 1 Tablepsoonful of Butter. 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Sprig of Thyme. Salt and Pepper. Croftons. Prepare the Sweetbreads in exactly the same manner as in the recipe “Sweetbreads with Mushrooms.” When making the sauce, add one-half can of truffies cut in halves. Serve with the truffles as a garnish about the sweetbreads. This is a very expensive Sweetbreads & la Créme.

Ris de Veau @ la Créme 10 Mushrooms. 1% Tablespoonfuls of Clean and parboil the Sweetbreads for twenty minutes, Then remove all veins and nerves, and chop the meat into pieces of about an inch and a half. Chop the mushrooms very fine indeed. Heat the butter in a saucepan, and, when it melts, add the flour, being careful not to let it brown. When perfectly smooth, add the milk and stir constantly until it boils. Then add the chopped mushrooms and let them simmer for five minutes. Season well to taste with salt and white pepper. Then add the Sweetbreads and cook for five minutes longer and serve hot. At luncheons and dinners the Sweetbreads a la Créme are seryed in small silver shells or fancy paper cases.

Sweetbreads a la Financiére. Ris de Veau @ la Fianctere 3 Pairs of Sweetbreads. % Pound of 3 Carrots. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 1% Pints of Beef Consommé or Water. 1 Pint of Rich Chicken Broth or Water. 2 Truffles. 12 Mushrooms. 18 Stoned Olives. 12 Quenelles.

2 Blanched Chicken Livers. Croftons Fried in Butter to Garnish. Select fine, fresh Sweetbreads and prepare as in the recipe for Sweetbreads Larded With Mushrooms. Parboil for twenty minutes; then drain of all water; press them into shape, lay on a clean napkin and cover with @ plank and place a weight upon them to press and make solid. Take a piece of fine salt pork, and cut into little thin strips like matches and lard the Sweetbreads with this, using a very fine larding needle, and following imPlicitly the directions given in the recipe for Sweetbreads Larded With Mushroom Sauce. Lard each Sweetbread eight times. Then take a shallow saucepan and put in it a half pound of butter. When the butter melts, lay in the Sweetbreads, one by one. Season with salt and pepper very lightly, and add the three carrots, sliced fine, and the onion, sliced very fine. Add the finely minced thyme and bay leaves, Butter a piece of brown paper and cover the saucepan; then set in the oven and let the Sweetbreads cook slowly till they are of a bright golden brown. From time to time uncover the saucepan and turn the Sweetbreads, so that all portions of them may be evenly colored. When they have reached this beautiful color add one pint of good beef broth (Consommé or Bouillon), and let them simmer for a half or three-quarters of an hour. When nearly ready to serve, prepare a Sauce a la Financiére, as follows: Take two tablespoonfuls of butter, melt and remove from the fire, and add gradually a tablespoonful of flour; blend well with a wooden spoon till very smooth, and moisten with one and one-half pint of rich chicken broth and set on the fire. Add ‘the truffies nicely sliced; a dozen and a half stoned olives; the blanched chicken livers, cut in pieces; the mushrooms, nicely chopped, salt and Pepper to taste, and a dash of Cayenne or Tobasco. Let the sauce cook for twenty minutes. It should be of the consistency of rich cream. Place the sauce in a round dish, lay the Sweetbreads over it, garnish with the Quenelles and Crofttons fried in butter and send to the table hot. Sweetbreads 4 1a Poulette. Rie de Veau a la Poulette The Yolks of 4 Eggs. The Juice of 1 opped Parsley to Garnish.

A Sauce 4 la Poulette.

Parboil the sweetbreads for about twenty minutes, then make a Sauce

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————— —S—— & la Poulette (see recipe), adding the juice of one lemon and seasoning to taste. But do not add the eggs till the sauce has been taken from the fire or it will curdle. When the sauce is made, place the Sweetbreads in it, one by one, and let it come to the boiling point. Then remove from the fire and stir in the yolks of four eggs that have been well beaten, and a half tablespoonful of butter. Sprinkle with finely-chopped parsley, pour over the Sweetbreads and serve.

Sweetbreads in Casseroles. Riz de Veau en Casecroics, ou Vol-au-Vent ¥y% Can of Mushrooms.

A Sauce a la Poulette.

Parboil the Sweetbreads in exactly the same manner as in the above recipe for Sweetbreads & la Poulette. Six Sweetbreads will suffice. Cut them into dice pieces after parboiling; add a@ quarter of a can of finely-chopped mushrooms to the sauce. Cut two dozen oysters into pieces. taking off all the hard portions. Add the chopped Sweetbreads to the sauce, and, after ten minutes, add the oysters, Let them cook for five minutes, have ready a pan filled with a rich Vol-au-Vent crust, pour the mixture in and serve. Or make the Vol-auVent crust, which is very difficult (see recipe), into small shells, bake and fill with the Sweetbreads. This is an elegant dish for fashionable luncheons, but quite above the ordinary householder’s purse. The Sweetbreads are generally served in casseroles or fancy cases.

Sweetbreads Crépinettes, ‘ Crépinettes de Ris de Veau 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. % Clove of Garlic.

1 Teaspoonful of Prepared Mustard. Clean and parboil the Sweetbreads as already shown in recipe, Chop an onion very fine and place it in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let them simmer without browning; add one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, one-half clove of garlic, a teaspoonful of prepared mustard, and mix well. Then add a pint of water and stir well; then add the Sweetbreads, which have been chopped very fine and formed into “‘Crépinettes,” or little fringed balls, by patting with ‘the hand; let them simmer for about fifteen minutes longer. Serve with any sauce, preferably a Cream Sauce. (See recipe under chapter ‘‘Sauces for Fish, Meats, etc.'’) Fried Sweetbreads Breaded. Ris de Veau Panés 1 Egg. Grated Bread Crumbs. Wash and parboil the Sweetbreads and then trim off all tendons and nerves. Cut into pieces of about twu inches long and roll first in a wellbeaten egg and then in bread crumbs. Drop into boiling fat and fry till a golden brown. Serve with a Cream Broiled Sweetbreads.

Ria de Veau Grili¢s Parboil the Sweetbreads and then remove all nerves. Cut into halves. Brush with melted butter and place on the gridiron. Broil nicely, and, when well colored, take off, pour melted butter over them, season again, and serve very hot.

Swectbreads Smotbered.

Ris de Veau Braissés 1 Carrot. 1 Onion.

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 1 Pint of Consommé or Water. Prepare the Sweetbreads as in the recipe for “Sweetbreads Larded With Mushrooms.” Put them into a sauceFran with two tablespoonfuls of but‘ter, and let them brown slightly. Add a finely sficed carrot and onion and the minced herbs. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Cover the saucepan with a buttered paper, and then cover closely. Occasionally. uncover and turn the Sweetbreads till they are al! browned evenly to a nice golden color. When they have reached this stage add the pint of Consommé or water and cover again and let them simmer for about twenty minutes. They are now ready to serve with any kind of sauce or garnish that may be desired, In serving Sweetbreads thus prepared, always place the sauce on the dish, first having the dish very hot; lay the Sweetbreads over the sauce, garnish nicely with fried Croatons and serve,

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Sweetbreads thus prepared may be served with a Sauce & l’Oiselle, Sauce Salpicon, Sauce a la Soubise, Sauce a& la Bearnaise, Sauce A la Duxelle, Sauce aux Gourmets, with a Purée of Spinach, or with hot Crépes. TRIPE.

Tripe Tripe, which is the large stomach of ruminating animals, is generally cleaned, scraped, bleached and prepareé by the butchers before it is sold. It is nutritious and digestible. To prepare the tripe properly for cooking, wash it carefully in several waters. When thoroughly clean, put it in a kettle of cold water, add one tablespoonful of salt and one of vinegar, and let the tripe boil for five hours at least. It is always best, if tripe is to be used for breakfast, to prepare it and give the long boiling the day before. Drain thoroughly. Then it is ready for preparation according to any of the following Stewed Tripe.

Tripe Sautée 2 Pounds of Prepared Trine. 1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. % Clove of Garlic. % Pint of Milk. Take the prepared tripe and cut into strips of about one finger length and a half inch in width. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan; add @ finely sliced onion, a sprig of parsley and a bay leaf, minced. Stir together without letting it brown, then add a tablespoonful of flour. Stir well and add a pint of milk. Stir constantly till it comes to a boil, seasoning to the taste with salt and pepper. Then add the well-seasoned tripe and let it cook over a moderate fire for about five minutes, Stewed Tripe a la Lyonnaise. Tripe Sautéc @ la Lyonnatse 2 Pounds of Prepared Tripe. 1 Tablespoontful of Butter. 1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. -The Juice of 1 Lemon, or a Teaspoonful of Vinegar.

Place a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan and add one chopped onion, one carrot, finely sliced; a sprig each of thyme, parsley, bay leaf and salt and pepper. Let it brown slightly and place the tripe on top, adding a half clove of garlic, minced very fine. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and add the juice of one lemon. Let it all simmer for a few minutes and then add a half cup of broth or hot ‘water. Season to taste; let it simmer for twenty minutes longer and serve. Tripe a la Poulette.

Gras-Double @ la Poulette 2 Pounds of Tripe.

1 Sprig of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. he Yolks of 2 Eggs.

A Sauce a la Poulette.

Having prepared the tripe according to the directions given under the heading of “Tripe,”’ make a rich Sauce a la Poulette, always omitting the eggs till later. (See recipe.) Add to the sauce elght small white onions that have already been boiled in plain water until they are perfectly tender. Let all this stew for about five minutes. Then add the tripe, which has been cut into pieces of three inches in length and one-half inch in width, and stew the whole gently for about a half hour. Take it off the fire, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, stirring constantly, and serve hot. Tripe a la Créole.

Graa-Double @ la Créole 2 Pounds of Tripe.

12 Tomatogs, or a 2-Pound Can. 1 Square Inch of Lean Ham. Clean the tripe well, and boll till tender. Cut it into slices of about two inches long and half an inch wide. Smother well in a saucepan two onions sliced fine, and a tablespoonful of butter. Then chop about one square inch of lean ham very fine, and add. Brown in a saucepan two cloves of garlic, chopped fine, with three sprigs each of thyme and bay leaf, minced very fine. Then add about twelve large, fresh tomatoes, or the contents of a two-pound can. Season all to taste with salt and Cayenne pepper. Jet this cook for ten minutes, then add

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the tripe, and let all smother for twenty-five minutes, Season to taste, Fried Tripe.

Tripe Frite.

2 Pounds of Tripe.

1 Ege. Grated Bread Crumbs. Parsley and Lemon to Garnish. Prepare the tripe, boil well, and cut into pieces of three inches in length and one in width. Roll it in a beaten egg and then in fine grated bread crumbs. Drop in boiling lard and fry to a golden brown. (See directions for frying.) Take off the fire and place on a bed of fried parsley and garnish with sliced lemon. Serve with a Sauce Piquante or a Sauce Poivrade, (See recipe for meat sauces.) Tripe & la Mode de Caen.

Gras-Double @ la Mode de Cacn 3 Pounds of Tripe. 3 Onions. 3 Carrots. 1 Dozen Whole Bay Leaves.

1 Dozen Whole Cloves.

1_Dozen Whole Allspice.

3 Cloves of Garlic (whole). 1 Ounce of Thyme (whole).

2 Dozen Pieces of Bacon, 2 Inches Square.

1 Cup of Broth or Water.

Salt, Cayenne and Chili Pepper to Take three pounds of tripe. Cut the tripe into pieces of about two inches square. Slice three onions and three large carrotsvery fine. Take one dozen whole bay leaves, one ounce of thyme. whole; one dozen whole cloves, and the same number of allspice, three whole cloves of garlic, two dozen Pieces of very thin bacon cut into Pieces of two inches square. Have ready a two-gallon earthen jar that can stand baking in an oven. Put in the bottom of the jar a thin layer of butter. Place on top a thin layer of bacon, then a thin layer of onions, carrots, bay leaves, thyme, garlic, spices, dividing all ingredients into two equal portions. Sprinkle over the whole salt, Cayenne and Chili pepper. On top of this lay one-half of the tripe. Over the tripe place a@ layer of bacon; then vegetables, seasonings, etc. Over this place another layer of tripe, and remnants of thyme, bay leaf, vegetables, bacon, etc., as below, this being the last layer. Pour over all a quart of broth or water. Cover the jar closely with a layer of Pie Paste (Paté Brisée—see recipe) set in a very moderate oven, and let it cook slowly and very steadily for at least five hours. This is a very old-fashioned Creole dish, and excellent. Some add to the tripe a amall quantity of calf's head or feet. In serving this dish you will need little else for dinner besides a soup or gumbo.

CHAPTER XIV Du Mouton ’ The leg, shoulder and loin of the mutton are used as roasting pieces, The brisket and neck are used for soups and stews, and from the loina are cut the delicate French chops or cutlets of mutton. Mutton is so sus: ceptible of good seasoning, and sv easily impregnated with the different aromatic herbs used in cooking that it becomes not only most agreeable to the taste, but tender and very easily digested.

Something to Remember in Cooking Mutton, Remember that mutton must never be breaded, and mutton chops fried, You will hear of mutton chops en papilotte, in imitation of the ways of cooking veal chops, but the Creoles very wisely and very sensibly refrain from cooking mutton in any other ways than those given in this book. No good Creole cook will eat a fried mutton chop.

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GEE PICAYUNE CREOLE COOK BOOK 89 Roast Leg of Mutton.

Gigot Roti 1 Leg of Mutton.

Select a fine, tender leg of mutton. Wipe thoroughly with a damp towel and dredge with salt and pepper, thoroughly rubbing, so that the meat may be penetrated by the seasoning. Place the mutton in a baking pan, set in a quick oven and bake, basting every ten minutes or so, allowing twelve minutes to every pound. It must never be overdone, but rather underdone. It will require no larding, for the meat is rich and soon makes sufficient juice to allow frequent basting. To ascertain if done, press with the fingers or stick with a fork; the juice will spurt out, and it is then ready to serve. Decorate the bone with a quilling of white paper, and serve in its own sauce. The dish on which mutton is placed must al‘ways be very hot, as also the plates on which it is to be served. A very good way to serve it is to put a circle of nicely boiled and browned turnips around the dish, and serve with the gravy of the mutton. Roast Saddle of Mutton.

Selle de Mouton Rote A Saddle of Mutton.

Currant Jelly.

A Saddle of Mutton is two loins. Proceed to roast in exactly the same manner as for a single leg. Serve with Currant Jelly.

Roast Loin of Mutton.

Filet de Mouton Roti A Filet of Mutton.

Garnish of Green Peas.

The filet of mutton is a square cut from the loin. Proceed to dredge with salt and pepper, and roast in exactly the same manner as leg of mutton. Boiled Leg of Mutton, Caper Sauce. Gigot de Mouton Bouilli, Sauce aur Cépres 1 Leg of Mutton. 1 Herb Bouquet. Sait and Pepper to Taste.

A Caper Sauce.

Rub the leg of mutton well with salt and pepper. Have ready a pot of boiling water, into which you have thrown the herbs, bay leaf, salt and pepper, allowing a teaspoonfu! each of the two latter ingredients. Put the leg of mutton into the water, being very careful to have it well covered with water, else the meat will blacken. Let it boil gently, but steadily, allowing fifteen minutes to every pound of meat. When done, place on a dish and serve with a Caper Sauce. In serving slice nicely, put a few drops of lemon on each slice, and pour over all the Caper Sauce. (See recipe Caper Sauce.) Mutton thus prepared is also served with a Purée of Turnips. Mutton Stew.

Ragoftt de Mouton auz Pommes de Terre 4 Pounds of the Brisket of Mutton. 6 Irish Potatoes.

¥% Tablespoonful o: Lard.

1 Square Inch of Ham, Chopped Very ne.

Cut the mutton into pieces of about an inch square and season well with ealt and pepper. Put one-quarter of a tablespoonful of lard into the stewpot, and when it melts add the thinly sliced onions. Let these brown for a few minutes and then add the mutton and the ham, chopped very fine. Let this continue browning, and when slightly browned add one tablespoonful of finely sifted flour and stir well. Then add the finely minced bay leaf and a half clove of garlic, minced fine. Brown lightly, for a mutton stew must never be dark. After twenty minutes, add two quarts of boiling water and let it boil for about ten minutes longer, seasoning to taste. Then add the potatoes, cut into halves, and let the mixture cook for threequarters of an hour longer, making one hour and a half in all. Let it simmer gently all the time, so that the meat may be perfectly tender. Mutton Stew With Turnips.

Ragotts de Mouton aux Navete 4 Pounds of the Brisket of Mutton. 6 Turnips. 3 Large Onions. 1 Bay Leaf. % Clove of Garlic. Y% Tablespoonful of Lard.

1 Square Inch of Ham, Chopped Very ne.

Cut the mutton into pieces of about an inch in length and thickness, and season well. Proceed to make the stew

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as mentioned above, only instead of adding potatoes, add turnips parboiled, and cut into halves or quarters. This is a very delicious stew. The neck of the mutton may also be used for stews, but the brisket is better. Shoulder of Mutton Smothered With Turnips.

Epaule de Mouton Braisée.

1 Shoulder of Mutton.

1 Carrot. 1 Onion. % Stalk of Celery. 4 Cloves. 1 Bay Leaf. 6 Turnips. If the mutton does not appear very tender the process of smothering it will make it so. It is good to beat the leg well with a rolling pin that you may be sure of good and tender eating. Season well. Slice an onion and one carrot very fine; chop fine a half stalk of celery, and put these, with the shoulder of mutton, into a deep baking pot. Cover well and let the mutton juice permeate the vegetables and brown them. Then add the minced bay leaves and cloves; cover and let these brown, and after ten minutes add one quart of boiling water. Season well again, and set on a steady fire allowing fifteen minutes to every pound. An hour before serving add six whole turnips, which have been peeled and parboiled, and let these remain smothered with the mutton. Serve with the turnips as a garnish. This dish is highly recommended.

Broiled Mutton Chops.

Cételettcs de Mouton Grillées et Panées 6 Mutton Chops.

Butter. Salt and Pepper.

In selecting mutton chops for broiling, remember that the smaller French chops, which are cut from the breast of the mutton, are generally served at dinner, and the loin chops for breakfast. The breast chops are daintier in appearance, but the loin chops are sweeter and the meat is more solid. The French chops should always be cut thinner than the loin chops.

Season the chops well with salt and pepper and brush with melted butter and a few bread crumbs. Have the gridiron very hot and place the chops upon it. In a few seconds turn the chops and when they have browned quickly they are done. Place on a platter, butter thickly, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve very hot. Mutton Cutlets, Cotelcttes de Mouton, 4 Mutton Cutlets.

Butter. Salt and Pepper.

The cutlets are slices from the thick part of the leg of the mutton and are very excellent eating. Trim off the outer skin and broil in the same manner as mutton chops, They are very delicious served for dinner with a garnish of Purée of Spinach. (See Mutton Chops, Brewer’s Style. COotelcttcs dc Mouton au Brasseur 6 Mutton Chops. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 3 Shallots, Chopped Fine.

Select six thick chops from the loin of the mutton. Trim neatly and season well with salt and black pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Rub lightly with butter on either side and broil on a hot charcoal fire. Have ready a hot dish and pour over the chops a sauce of melted butter, seasoned nicely with salt and pepper, the juice of one lemon and three minced shallots. Mutton Hash, Hachis de Mouton.

3 Cups of Hashed Muttom 6 Potatoes. 1 Herb Bouquet. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter. This is an excellent way of utilizing the left-over mutton. After having taken off all the rough edges of the roast and cut out the gristle and hard membrane, hash the mutton into pieces of about one inch in size. Take six left-over tomatoes, or freshly boiled ones cut into quarters. Chop fine one herb bouquet. Place a tablespoonful of butter or a half tablespoonful of lard in a deep stewpot, and as it melts add the mutton seasoned well, and a few minutes later the fine herbs. Mince the clove of garlic if the flavor is liked and add. Stir constantly without browning much, and add a tablespoonful of flour. Let this brown very slightly and then add the tomatoes. Cover and let all simmer for about twenty minutes, then pour over it a pint of boiling water. Season again to taste, set on a low fire and let it simmer gently for about threequarters of an hour. Cut some Croftons and fry them in butter; place on

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en} — SSS a dish and serve with the hash. The Creoles often add several poached eggs if the sauce is not thick enough. It is als») a frequent custom to add a quarter or a half can of mushrooms to the hash, but this is always a matter of taste and economy.

Mutton Feet & la Poulette. Pieds de Mouton 2 la Poulctto, 12 Mutton Feet.

A Sauce & la Créme.

%, Tablospoontul of French Vinegar. 1 Gill_of Water. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. % Can of Mushrooms (if desired). Scald the mutton feet in boiling water and remove every vestige of wool that may adhere, cleaning and scraping the feet. Then place them in a pot, cover well with boiling water, add half a lemon (including peel and meat) to the water, and salt well. In the meantime, prepare a Sauce & la Poulette as follows: Make a Cream Sauce (see recipe Meat Sauces) and add the juice of one lemon, or half a tablespoonful of good vinegar. Take the mutton feet out of the water in which they have been boiled, pulling out the big bones. Put the boned feet into the Sauce a la Poutette, add a gill of water, let all simmer about five minutes, and then take off the fire and add the yolks of two eggs, beaten well, stirring them into the sauce. Serve hot. Many of the Creoles add a half can of mushrooms to the mutton feet before putting in the sauce. This makes the dish very delicious, increasing the flavor. Mutton Feet & la Lyonnaise, Pieds de Mouton a la Lyonnaisc. 12 Mutton Feet.

2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Pint of Broth. Salt and Pepper to Crodtons.

Clean and boil the mutton feet in the same way as indicated in the above recipe. When done take out the large bones and cut the feet into twoinch pieces. Cut two onions very fine, mincing them, and brown in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter. When slightly brown add a tablespoonful of flour. Mix well, making a nice Brown Roux (see recipe under chapter on ‘Sauces for Meats, Fish, ete.””) and then add about a pint of the broth in which the mutton feet have been boiled. As it boils, skim off the grease and let it simmer for about ten minutes. Then add tho mutton feet and let them simmer ten minutes longer, and serve hot, with Croatons of bread fried in butter. Mutton feet may also be served with a Purée of Onions. (See recipe.) Stuffed Mutton Feet.

Pieds de Mouton Farcis, 12 Mutton Feet. %& SB of Wet Bread. 1 Hard-Boiled Egg. 1 Spoon of Butter. 3 Thin Slices of Veal.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 3 Carrots. 2 Onions.

Clean the mutton feet well, according to directions given, and boil and take out all the bones. Take a half cup of wet bread and squeeze well. Season it well with salt and pepper, fry in a little butter and add a chopped egg. Stuff the feet with this, splitting down the length and sewing up to keep the dressing from escaping. Put in a large saucepan one tablespoonful of lard and lay over it thin slices of veal, well seasoned, and one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme and geranium (minced very fine), three chopped carrots, and two onions (chopped very fine.) Pour over this the juice of a lemon, let it simmer gently for about a half hour, turning the veal, that it may cook well and be thoroughly penetrated by the juices. Put the stuffed mutton feet on top, cover closely, and let all simmer for a half hour longer. Then unsew the mutton feet, lay them on the slices of veal, garnish nicely and serve with a Sauce & l’'Espagnole, Sauce aux Tomates, Sauce aux Oignons, or Sauce a la Provencale. The latter two are highly recommended.

Sheep Tongue Smothered.

Langucs de Mouton Braisées. 6 Tongues. 1 Large Onion, Cut Fine. 2 Carrots, Cut Fine.

1 Herb Bouquet, Minced Very Fine. 3 Pickles. % of a Cup of Capers. 1 Pint of Boiling Water.

2 Slices of Bacon.

Scald and blanch the tongues removing the skins. Throw them into cold water. Dry or lard very delicately with larding needles, Season well with salt and pepper. Slice the bacon into fine strips and lay in the

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eee bottom of a saucepan; place the lamb and cook for five minutes, allowing tongues over this. Place qn top an- two and a half minutes to each side, other thin layer of bacon in very fine Put them on a hot dish and pour over strips. Add the minced carrots, onion, them melted butter and a little lemon. herbs and salt and pepper again to Garnish nicely with parsley and serve taste. Let it simmer for about fifteen hot,:

minutes, and then moisten with about LAMB.

a pint of boiling water or broth. Let Agneau.

it cook over a slow fire about three Lamb is in season from April to hours, Then take out the tongues, September. Like ver " y young veal, it place them on a hot dish, strain the i, ynwholesome and tasteless if eaten sauce through a steve, set back on the too tender. A lamb should always be stove a few seconds, and add one- two months old, else it will be what quarter of a cup of capers, and three tne Creoles call “une viande gelainpickles, sliced fine. Stir well and let guge,” or a jelly meat not fit to eat it boil up once. Pour over the tongues nq yery aumeule to manage. The best and serve. way to cook lamb is to roast it or bake Lamb tongues are prepared in the. i+” The join of the lamb is cut into same manner when braised or smoth- chops; the brains, tongue, cutlets, tenered. dons and feet are cooked in the same Sheep Brains, manner as those of sheep, and it Cervelle de Mouton. would be superfluous to repeat the 1 Rt cuthe Sect peed recipes. Stewed Lambs’ Tongues, or Grated Breadcrumbs. “Langues d’Agneaux Sautées,” served Parsley to Garnish. with a Sauce Tomate, or a Sauce a la Plunge the brains into cold water Tartare, is an excellent entrée, or to disgorge them of all blood and re-_ luncheon dish. move the fine skin and veins that surround them, Then blanch with Roast Lamb, Mint Sauce. scalding water. In five minutes take Quartier d’Agneau Réti, Sauce Menthe. them out of the hot water and put The Hind Quarter of a Lamb. them into a saucepan and cover with Salt and Pepper to Taste. cold water. Add a tiny onion sliced Parsley to Garnish. Mint Sauce. fine, parsley and a whole bay leaf. This is the standing dish for the Let them simmer gently for five min- Faster dinner in New Orleans. Select -utes. Then take from the fire and 42 fine, fresh, white hind-quarter of drain. When cold cut into pieces an lamb. Rwast in exactly the same inch square, dip them in a batter or manner as indicated in “‘Roast Leg of tomato sauce, and then in grated Mutton” (see recipe), only allow bread crumbs, patting gently. Drop about twenty minutes to the pound in into boiling lard and fry to a golden cooking. Serve with garnish of parsbrown. Take out, drain off all grease, ley and a Mint Sauce. (See recipe.) and serve on a bed of fried parsley. Roast Lamb is always served with A garnish of boiled green peas is also fresh, young green peas and asparavery pretty and palatable. gus tips.

Sheep Brains, Brown Sauce. Roast Lamb &@ la Bearnaise. Cervelle de Mouton, au Beurre Noir Agneau Réti @ la Bearnaise, Prepare the brains in exactly the The Hind Quarter of a Lamb. game manner as indicated in the 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme, Parsley and above recipe and serve with Brown Bay Reet, epoca ee Bots. Butter Sauce. (See recipe.) 1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. Sheep Kidneys. Parsley and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Rognone cn Brochettes. Select a fine, white hind-quarter of 6 Kidneys. the lamb; lard it in the same manner 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. as given for larding “Roast Filet of Slice the kidneys very thin and wash Beef.” (See recipe.) Rub well with well, then scald and wipe dry. Passa butter on top and sprinkle all over skewer through each kidney, after thickly very soft bread crumbs, seasoning well, and brush with melted minced parsley, thyme, bay leaf, salt butter. Place on a double broiler and pepper and minced shallots, Set

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TS in the stove and cover with a buttered. brown paper. Let it roast, allowing eighteen or twenty minutes to the pound, in a quick oven, and, when done, take off the paper, sprinkle again lightly with grated bread crumbs; let it brown and set in a hot dish; sprinkle over it lemon juice; garnish the dish with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon, and serve, carviny in slices and placing a quarter of » lemon on each plate.

Filet of Lamb Roasted and Larded. Filet d’Agneau R6ti ct Piqué A Filet of Lamb.

Lard Sufficient to Lard Thoroughly. 1 Small Onion. 1 Bay Leaf, 4 Cloves, if desired.

Tablespoonful of Glacé. (See recipe.) Trim the filet nicely, removing the outer muscular skin. Lard the filet well, using larding needles. The lard must be very thin, like a shoestring. The larding is done by filling the needles with the lard and pushing them through the filet as far as they will go. If the needles are long enough they will come out on the other side of the filet, leaving the lard inside. Repeat this process all down the center and along the sides of the filet, about an inch apart, and have the rows neat and even. If you have not a larding needle, make incisions with a knife and push the lard in with your finger, but the filet is never as juicy and tender, nor does it look so clean and even when baked. When well larded, dredge well with salt and -pepper, rubbing this thoroughly into the beef. Cut up one small onion, one bay leaf, and mash four cloves, and place in the bottom of the baking pan. Lay the larded filet on this bed, the larded side being uppermost. Put small bits of butter equal to a half teaspoonful on top, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. This dish is always eaten rare. To ascertain if sufficiently done, stick a fork into the filet; if the blood bubbles out, it is ready to serve. The meat, when done, is always spongy and elastic to the touch.

In the meantime, prepare the following Brown Sauce: Take one tablespoonful of butter and one of Glacé (see recipe under chapter “Sauces for Meats, Fish, etc.”) and three of water, smoothly rubbed, and melt in a,faucepan, stirring constantly to prevent burning. When brown add one cup of water. Season well with salt and pepper. Pour over the filet, which must be placed in a hot dish, and serve with fresh, young green peas. Filet of Lamb a la Béchamel. Filet d’Agneau @ la Béchamel A Filet of Lamb.

A Sauce & la Béchamel.

Roast the lamb as in the manner given, and prepare a “Sauce a la Béchamel.” (See recipe.) Slice the lamb, pour the sauce over it and serve. This is considered an excellent entrée. ‘ Broiled Lamb Chops.

Cotelettes d’Agneau Grillées. 6 Lamb Chops.

Butter, Salt and Pepper.

Broil in exactly the same manner as Mutton Chops, only let them remain a little longer on the griddle, until they are firm under pressure of a fork.

Season the chops well with salt and Pepper and brush with melted butter and a few bread crumbs. Have the gridiron hot and place the chops upon it. In a few seconds turn the chops and let the other sides cook. Place on a platter, butter thickly, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve very hot.

Smothered Breast of Lamb.

Pottrine d’ Agneau Braisée. Shoulder and Breast of a Lamb. 1 Carrot. 2 Onions.

1 Clove of Garlic. % Can of Tomatoes. A Sprig Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. Bread Crumbs,.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Pepper and Salt to Taste. 1 Pint of Water. Select nice, fresh breast and shoulder of lamb. Have the butcher remove all the bones; wash or wipe carefully with a damp towel. Take one cup of bread crumbs, which have been wet and squeezed, and season well with one grated onion, a clove of garlic, and chopped parsley, thyme and bay leaf and spices to taste. Put in a frying pan, with one tablespoonful of butter, and fry about five minutes. Force this dressing into the open side of the lamb, roll it up in its own meat, and tie it very securely with thin strips of twine. Slice the carrot, onion and turnip very fine, and fry in a tablespoonful of butter in a deep pan. When brown, add the

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| lamb, then cover and let simmer for about fifteen minutes. Then add the tomatoes and let them brown; then add just enough boiling water to cover the meat (one pint); set the not on a slow fire and let it simmer gently and steadily for about three hours, or according to the size of the roll. Serve with the vegetable dished around and with its own gravy.

Minced Lamb.

Agneau Emincé 2 Pounds of Cold Minced Lamb. 4 Ounces of Butter. % Pint of Veal Stock, 1% Gills of Cream. Yolk of 2 Eggs. Place the butter fm a frying pan; add one chopped onion and brown sltghtly; add the mushrooms, and season to taste. Then add the half pint of veal broth, if you have it; if not, boiling water or milk, and let it simmer a few minutes; thicken with a tablespoonful of blended flour; add the minced lamb and a gill and a half of cream; let all simmer, stirring constantly; and when done, which will be in about ten minutes, take off the fire; add the yolks of two eggs, beaten, and stir constantly. Place in a hot dish, garnish with Crofitons (buttered) and serve. This is a very nice breakfast dish from the left-over lamb.

Epigram of Lamb.

Eptgramme d’Agncau 2 Breasts of Lamb.

1 Teaspoonful of Pepper.

3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter or Olive Oil. Take two breasts of Lamb; tie them and put them to boil in soup stock for forty-five minutes. Then drain well and extract all the bones, Press them down with a heavy weight on top. When thoroughly cold, cut each breast into three triangular-shaped pieces, dip them in olive oil, or melted lard, or butter, and season with the salt and pepper. Roll each piece in fresh bread crumbs grated, and broil on a slow fire, allowing four minutes to each side. Serve with a pint of hot Macedoine or any garnish that may be desired, arranging the breast over the garnish. The epigram may be served a la Soubise with a hot Soubise sauce, or 4 la Chicorée with a hot chicory sauce and garnish of fried sweet potatoes.

Lamb en Blanquette.

Blanquette d’Agncau.

3 Pounds of Brisket:of Lamb. 1 Onion. 2 Carrots.

% Dozen Cloves. 1 Leek.

1 Bouquet of Thyme, Parsley and Bay at.

% Pound of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls % Can of Mushrooms or Green Peas. The brisket of the lamb is best for this dish. Cut it into pieces two inches square. Put in a stewpot and cover with a half gallon of water, and add salt and pepper and two onions and one carrot, chopped fine. Let it boil till very tender. When it reaches this stage, take the meat out of the saucepan and keep the water in which it was boiled. Take another saucepan and put & tablespoonful of butter in it, and as it melts add a tablespoonful of flour, Let it brown lightly, and add one pint of the water tn which the lamb was boiled. Stir well, making it very light, and not thick. Add one-half can of mushrooms, and let the whole boil about fifteen minutes, so as to be very light. Then put in the boiled lamb. Let it simmer for about fifteen minutes longer, take it off the fire and add the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, two tablespoonfuls of the gravy, and the juice of one lemon. Serve hot.

Lamb’s Brains, Cervelle d’Agneau The recipes given for Sheep's Brains may be used in cooking Lamb’s Brains, which are, indeed, a very delicate dish. The following recipe, Lamb’s Brains a la Rémoulade, however, is a famous Creole dish: Lamb’s Brains & la Rémoulade. Cervelle d’Agneau & la Rémoulade 6 Lamb's Brains.

2% Quarts of Water. 2 Cloves of Garlic. The Yolks of 4 Eggs. 2 Shallots. 1 Herb Bouquet. 6 Capers. 3 Small Vinegar Pickles.

1_Tablespoonful of Parsley. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 1 Tablespoonful of Creole Mustard. % Tablespoonful of Chives. Plunge the Lamb’s Brains into cold water, and let them stand for an hour, changing the water several times. Prepare exactly as Sheep’s Brains. After removing from the water and taking off the skin, drain well. Have

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ready a saucepan of boiling water and season it with salt and pepper and an herb bouquet of parsley, bay leaves and thyme. When the herbs begin to boil drop in the brains and let them cook for ten minutes. Remove the herb bouquet, strain the brains through a sieve, put them on a hot dish and s.rve with the following sauce: Chop the shallots very fine, mince the garlic and mash the yolks of the eggs. Put the vinegar into a small saucepan and add the shallots and the garlic, letting all boil till the vinegar is reduced about one-half. Then mash the yolks of the eggs in the sweet oil, cut up the capers and add all to the vinegar. Add the parsley and the vinegar pickles, chopped fine, and let all come to a boil. Then add the chives and two teaspoonfuls of Creole mustard. Mix well and pour all over the brains and send to the table very hot.

Lamb's Feet.

Picds d’Agneau, The various delightful ways that the Creoles have of serving Mutton Feet may be used in preparing Lamb’s Feet, the latter especially making many delightful entrées. We have “Pieds d’Agneau A la Poulette,” etc. (See recipe for cooking Mutton Feet, “Pieds d’Agneau au Blanc,” “Pieds d’Agneau a la Bourgeoise,” etc.) Lamb’s Feet, White Sauce.

Pieds d’Agneau, Sauce Blanche. 12 Lamb's Feet.

1 Pint of Broth. The Juice of 1 Lemon. The Yolk of 1 Ege.

Clean the feet well and boil; take out all the bones, cut the meat into little pieces of about two inches or less, season nicely and cook in a pint of their own water over a slow fire. Add the juice of a lemon and then throw in the beaten yolk of an egg to bind nicely, and serve hot. Lamb’s Feet 4 la Bourgeoise. Pieds d’Agneau @ la Bourgevisc. 12 Lamb’s Feet. 1 Pint_of Broth. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. The Juice of 1 Clean the feet well and boil as above. When tender, take out the rs feet, cut in pleces, removing all the bones. Put back in the saucepan, add a tablespoonful of butter blended well with a tablespoonful of flour. Stir well and add two sprigs of parsley, minced very fine, and the juice of one lemon. Let this simmer for ten minutes longer and serve hot. Broiled Lamb’s Kidneya.

Rognone d’Agneau Grillés.

6 Kidneys, The Juice of 1 Lemon. Parsley to Prepare in exactly the same manner as in the recipe for broiling Sheep Kidneys, and serve with melted butter and lemon juice and chopped parsley, thrown over. In all these recipes, where the skewer is used in broiling to keep the kidneys from separating, the skewer must be drawn out before buttering and serving.

Stewed Lamb Tongue.

Langues d’Agneau Sautéee.

6 Tongues. 1 Onion.

% of a Small Carrot, Cut Fine. % of a Small Turnip, Cut Fine. 1 Pint of Broth or Water.

1 Bay Leaf. 2 Sprigs of Thyme and Clean the tongues; wash well and boil in clear' water for an hour and a half. Then throw them into cold water and remove the skins. Cut the vegetables fine, and put them with the butter into a saucepan. Add a pint of broth or water, and then add the finely minced herbs. Add the tongues and let them simmer gently for two hours. Serve hot, with the gravy poured over them, Lamb Tongues With Tomato Sauce. Languee d’Agneau @ la Sauce Tomate. 6 Tongues. 1 Onion.

1 Pint of Broth or Water.

2 Sprigs of Thyme.

A Tomato Sauce.

Cook the tongue as in the recipe given above, omitting, of course, the vegetables. When done, place the tongues on a hot dish, pour over them a rich Tomato Sauce (see recipe) and

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CHAPTER XV | MG!

Du Cochon.

The old Creoles, like their French ancestors, hold that every portion of the hog is good, from the head to the feet, and all portions are utilized in the various dishes which are prepared in New Orleans. For roasting, the Creoles always use the delicate “Cochon de Lait,” or suckling pig, if not more nor less than four or five weeks old, when the pig is roasted whole; otherwise the best parts of the grown hog for roasting are the loin and the leg.

lets are taken from the loin. They are used as entrées, as are also slices of cold ham; the kidneys, cooked in wine, and the tails braisées or smothered.

Pork must always be cooked well done, or else it will be dangerous, unwholesome and indigestible. It must be roasted or fried.

Roast Loin of Pork.

Longe de Pore Rotie.

A Loin of Pork.

Parsley to Garnish. Apple Sauce. Score the loin in close lines across and down. The lines should be about a half inch apart. Dredge well with salt and pepper and place in the oven, letting it cook slowly and long, allowing at least twenty-five minutes to every pound, and basting every five minutes for the first half hour and every ten minutes thereafter. Pork must always be well done. When cooked thoroughly, take out of the baking pan, put in a hot serving dish, and garnish nicely with parsley. Serve with Apple Sauce and a little horseradish, (See recipe “Sauces for Meats,” etc.) -Roast Pork.

Pore Roti.

The leg and shoulder may be roasted in the same manner as the loin, allowing from twenty to twentyfive minutes to a pound in cooking. Pork chops or cut-, Roast Pig Stuffed.

Cochon de Lait Roti et Farci. 1_ Pig, Four or Five Weeks O14. 3 Large Onions. 2 Cups of Bread Crumbs.

3 Sprigs of Chopped Parsley. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Powdered Sage. In New Orleans the pig is always sold killed and cleaned by the butcher. Wash the young pig well, cleaning again, and scraping thoroughly thus taking out all remaining hair from the ears and nostrils. Wash again thoroughly in cold water, inside and out, shaking the pig vigorously, head downward. Then turn upwards and pour cold water over it. Wipe dry inside and out with a coarse towel, and then rub well inside with salt and Pepper and minced parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Prepare a dressing as follows: Wet the bread crumbs and squeeze thoroughly. Then add the sprigs of minced parsley and hardboiled eggs and the powdered sage. Mix well. Season all highly with black pepper and salt, using about a teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of black pepper. Place two ounces of butter, which will be equal to two tablespoonfuls, in a frying pan on the stove, and, when it melts, add the minced onions. Let them brown, and then add the dressing, stirring well, and letting it fry for five minutes. Take it off, stuff the pig and sew up the opening. Truss the fore legs backward and the hind feet forward, close under the body. Wipe the pig carefully with a damp towel, and then piace a corn cob in its mouth to keep it open. Rub the pig all over thoroughly with butter, dredging lightly with salt and pepper. Place in a moderate oven, and bake steadily for two and a half or three hours, according to size and age. Baste frequently, and, when half done, rub

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again with butter until the pan is saturated, Continue basting at intervals. When done, take out of the oven and place on a hot dish. Garnish the dish with parsley. Take the corncob out of the mouth and substitute a nice, rosy apple. Serve very hot, with Apple Sauce, (See recipe “Sauces for Meats,” etc.) Sweet potatoes are a nice vegetable to serve with roast pig. Boil a half dozen first and then peel carefully and Place them whole, about fifteen minutes before serving the pig, in the pan where it is roasting; let them soak in the gravy, brown nicely and serve on a separate platter or as a Roast Spare Ribs.

Cotelettes de Porc Rottes. Spare Ribs. Salt_and Pepper to Taste. A Garnish of Parsley and Radish. Dredge the spare ribs lightly with salt and pepper, after having washed well and wiped dry with a coarse towel. Place them in the baking pan and dredge with butter; place them in the oven and cover with a piece of buttered paper. Allow twenty minutes to every pound in cooking. About twenty minutes before serving take off the buttered paper, dredge again, with melted butter, and let them brown nicely. Serve with a garnish of parsley and radishes.

If it is desired to stuff the spare ribs, have the ribs cracked, crosswise, the entire length, in two places. Put a stuffing, as for roast pig, in the center, or a stuffing made of mashed potatoes and three hard-boiled eggs, mixed thoroughly. Close the ends of the ribs over this, tie well and roast as for a roast pig. Serve with an Apple Sauce or a Sauce Piquante. (See recipes ‘Sauces for Meats,” etc.) Pork Tenderloins, Filets de Porc Sautés, 4 Pork Tenderloins.

A Tablespoonful of Lard.

Have the tenderloins cut thin and spit lengthwise without separating. Have ready a very hot frying pan, place a tablespoonful of butter or lard in it and add the tenderloins. Turn every two minutes, not leaving them very long on either side at a time. Be careful to cook through ang throush, smothering over a low fire, and serve with Apple Sauce qr Currant Jelly. (See recipes “Sauces for Meats,” etc.) Fried Pork Chops.

Cotelettes de Cochon a la Poéle. 6 or 8 Pork Chops.

Salt and Peppér to Taste.

Wash the pork chops and season well with salt and pepper. Roll in grated bread crumbs and fry in boiling lard twenty-five minutes. This will be when they have reached a rich brown. Take out, place on a platter, and serve with pickles or a Sauce aux Cornichons, (See recipe.) Pig’s Feet.

Pieds de Cochon, 6 Pig’s Feet. 2 Bay Leaves. 3 Blades of Mace. 1 Dozen Whole Cloves.

1 Whole Red Pepper Pod.

1 Pint of Good Cider Vinegar. Select young and tender pig’s feet. Clean and scrape well and soak in cold water several hours. Split and crack the feet in several places; put them in a stewpot; cover with cold water and let them simmer until tender, When done, lay in a crock. Boil the vinegar, mace, cloves and bay leaves and pepper pod together a few minutes. Season the feet with salt and pepper, and pour the spiced vinegar over while boiling. Cover the crock and set to cool. The feet will be ready for use in twenty-four hours. Pig’s Feet, Sauce Robert, Pieds de Cochon @ la Sauce Robert. 3 Pig's Feet.

1 Tablespoonful of Butter or Olive Oil, % Tablespoonful of Pepper. Grated Bread Crumbs. % Pint of Sauce Robert.

Boil three good-sized Pig’s Feet in salted water, and, when tender, take out and drain thoroughly. Split the feet in two, place them in a dish and Then rub them with the olive oil or butter; roll in’ grated bread crumbs and put them to broil, allowing four minutes to each side of the feet. Prepare a hot Sauce & la Robert (see recipe), and pour this sauce in a warm dish. Lay the feet nicely over it and send to the table hot.

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ed Pig’s Feet, Piquant Sauce. Pieds de Cochon @ la Sauce Piquante. Prepare in exactly the manner directed above, and, after broiling the feet, serve with a half pint of Sauce Piquant. (See recipe.) Pig’s Feet, Tomato Sauce.

Pieds de Cochon @ la Sauce Tomate. Boil and prepare the feet as in recipe for ‘“‘Pig’s Feet, Sauce Robert,” and serve with a half pint of hot Tomato Sauce.

Pig’s Feet, Tartar Sauce.

Pieds de Cochon @ la Sauce Tartare. Prepare the feet as indicated in the recipe for “Pig’s Feet, Sauce Robert,” and serve with a half pint of Sauce & la Tartare. (See recipe.) Pig’s Feet, St. Hubert Style. Pieds de Cochon @ la St. Hubert. Prepare the feet as in the recipe for “Pig’s Feet, Sauce Robert,”. and serve with a half pint of hot Piquant Sauce, to which has been added a teaspoonful of Creole mustard, diluted. Stuffed Pig’s Feet @ la Périgueux. Piede de Cochon @ la Périgueuz. 3 Pig's Feet.

2 Minced Truffies.

1 Pound of Boned Turkey Forcemeat. 6 Pieces of Crépinette.

1 Egg.

% Pint of Hot Périgueux Sauce. Boil the Pig’s Feet, and then split them in two; take out the bones, lay the flesh on a dry, clean cloth and wipe well. Make a forcemeat of boned turkey (see recipe under chapter Stuffings for Fowls, etc.); add the truffies, which have been finely minced. Mix this well together. Crepinette is a kind of skin found in the stomach of the pig. Take six pieces of this crepinette, which you can easily buy from the _ butcher; cut them the size of a man's hand and lay on a clean biscuit board; place on each piece of skin a portion of the forcemeat about the size of a hen's egg and flatten out well. Place onehalf of a pig’s foot on top of this farcie, and cover with another layer of the stuffing. On either side lay three thin slices of truffes Wrap the crepinettes up in some fanciful shape, such as an envelope or card case, and dip them separately in a ~rell b ten egg, and then in grated bread crumbs. Put two tablespoon fuls of butter in a deep frying pan, put in the feet, cover closely, and let all cook on a slow fire for twentyfive minutes, allowing twelve minutes and a half to each side. Serve with a pint of hot Périgueux Sauce. (See recipe.) Place the sauce in a dish, lay the feet neatly over it, and send to the table hot.

Hogshead Cheese.

« Fromage de Cochon, 1 Hog’s Head. 1 Lemon.

1 Slice of Ham.

Thyme, Bay Leaf, Spices., Boil the whole hog’s head which has been already well cleaned and scraped. Add four teaspoonfuls of salt, and a lemon cut in half. After four hours, when the head will have become very tender, take out of the water and set to cool. Then skin the meat from the head, and save the water in which {it has been boiled. Cut up the entire head, ears and tongue and two of the feet. if you have boiled them, too, into pieces of about one inch in length. Take two large onions and chop them very fine. Put a tablespoonful of lard and the onions into a pot. Slightly smother them without browning. Season well with minced thyme, three mashed cloves, a dash of red pepper (Poivre Rouge). Add a teaspoonful of the water in which the head was boiled. Let this simmer gently; then add one pint of the same water, the peel of a large lemon, cut fine, and hot pepper to taste, seasoning highly. Boil well. Then add the head and a slice of ham, cut into pieces of about one inch long and a half inch wide. Season to taste, and add five powdered allspices, one blade of chopped mace and three mashed cloves. Let it boil for a half hour longer, till it comes to the right consistency. When cooked, fill a bowl with the cheese and put a close-fitting dish on top, and~ then place a piece of plank over this and set a big weight (about fifteen pounds) or thrce or four flatirons ontop. When the cheese cools, which will be in about five or six hours, turn

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it out of the bowl. It will have taken the shape of the bowl and become a fine head of cheese, ready to be served.

Salt Meat.

Viande Salée.

Salt pork enters so largely into cooking that it is not necessary to devote special attention to it here. It is used in cooking cabbage and pork and beans—a most excellent dish for children—and with nearly all green herbs and vegetables it serves as a delightful flavor. In the chapter on vegetables, where it is advisable to use salt or pickled pork, this subject will be treated.

Pickled Pork.

Petit Salé, Coarse Salt Sufficient to Make a Brine. 2 Dozen Onions.

25 Pounds of Pork. 1 Ounce of Saltpetre. 12 Cloves. 6 Allspice.

Pork should be pickled about twenty hours after killng. It is pickled al-vays in sufficient quantity to last for some time, for, if proper care is taken, it will keep one year after pickling; but it may also be pickled in smaller quantities, of three or four pounds at a tme, reducing other ingredients in the recipe according to quantity of pork used. To twenty-five pounds of pork allow one ounce of saltpetre. Pulverize carefully and mix with a sufficient quantity of salt to thoroughly salt the pork. Cut the pork into pieces of about two pounds, and slash each piece through the skin, and then rub carefully with the salt and saltpetre mixture till the meat is thoroughly penetrated through and through. Mash the cloves very fine and ground the allspice. Chop the onions. Wash a small barrel and place at the bottom a layer of salt, then a layer of coarsely chopped onions, and sprinkle over this a layer of the spices and minced bay leaves. Place on this a layer of the pork; pack tightly; then place above this a layer of the salt and seasonings and continue with alternate layers of pork and seasonings till all the pork is used up. Finish with a layer of the minced herbs and spices and have a layer of salt on top. Cover the ingredients with a board on which a heavy weight must be placed to press down the meat. It will be ready for use in about ten or twelve days.

HAM.

Jambon.

Ham is one of the most convenient kinds of food that can be kept in any household. In case of unexpected company for lunch or supper, the ham is always ready and sure to be appetizing. It forms combinations in many dishes, and is in itself a delightful breakfast dish and dinner entrée. Fried Ham.

Jambon Bouillt, A Ham. 2 Blades of Mace.

1 Dozen_Cloves.

Black Pepper and Parsley to Garnish. Wash the ham well in cold water, scraping off all portions of mold or salt. Have a large boiler of water on the stove. Throw in two blades of mace, a dozen cloves and three or four bay leaves. Put the ham in the water and let the fire be slow, allowing the water to heat gradually. Do not permit it to come to a good boil for. two hours at least, and be careful to skim regularly and often. Keep it always simmering gently, allowing twenty minutes to every pound. When done, let the ham cool in its own liquor, and then put it on a board, cover it with another board, and lay a weight on it. Leave it under the weight several hours. (This will enable you to cut it in thin slices after removing the welght.) Then carefully cut off the skin without taking off the fat. Sprinkle it in patches with black pepper and ornament the shank bone with quilled paper, or a paper frill. Serve it cold with a garnish of parsley. Cold boiled ham should be sliced very thin and eaten with pickles and mustard.

Fried Ham.

Jambon Frit.

8 Thin Slices of Ham.

Slice the ham thin. Heat the frying pan very hot. Lay in the ham in its own fat and fry over a quick fire. Allow an egg to every slice of ham. After taking the ham out of the pan,

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eS drop in the eggs. If you do not like eggs fried on both sides (many prefer them so), baste the eggs with the hot grease, and be sure to cook the yolks whole. When they are well set, without being hard, take the eggs out and lay one on each slice of ham. Garnish with parsley. Sprinkle the eggs with salt and pepper very lightly and serve.

If eggs are not served with the fried ham, and a gravy is desired, make one as follows: Take one tablespoonful of flour and add to the remaining fat in the pan. Mix well until smooth. Add a half pint of milk and stir until it boils; throw in a dash of black pepper, pour over the ham and send to the table hot.

Broiled Ham.

Jambon Grillé.

6 or 8 Thin Slices of Boiled Ham. 6 or 8 Slices of Buttered Toast. Always use boiled ham for broiling. Slice it about a half inch thick, according to the number to be served, and trim off the rough edges. Have the broiler very hot, lay the slices of ham upon it and brown well. Serve with buttered toast.

Broiled Ham With Cucumber Garnish. Jambon Grillé auw Concomdrca. 6 or 8 Slices of Boiled Ham. Pepper. Cucumbers.

Cut thin as many slices of ham as desired and broil evenly over hot coals. When very well browned dust it over with pepper, and serve garnished with slices of cucumber that have been steeped in salted vinegar several hours.

Ham Croquettes.

Croquettes de Jambon.

2 Cups of Finely Chopped Boiled Ham. 2 Cups of Mashed Potatoes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Cream. Chop the ham fine and add to the mashed potatoes. Then add the cream and butter and the yolks of two eggs, beaten well. Beat all together until smooth, then add a dash of Cayenne. Mold the ham into cylinder shapes of about a finger in length and roll in the third yolk well beaten. Then roll in grated bread crumbs and fry the cones in the boiling fat.

Ham puffs are made in the same way, only the potatoes are omitted, and a stiff batter is used instead. made of one pint of flour and one of water, three eggs and four ounces of finely chopped ham. The ham is placed in the batter and fried in boiling lard to a golden brown. Ham Soufilé Bouflé de Jambon.

1 Cup of Minced Ham.

3 Eggs, Beaten with the Whites and Yolks Separate.

1 Teaspoonful of Finely Chopped Mix together the chopped parsley, ham and yolks of eggs and a dash of Cayenne pepper. Beat all very hard till it becomes light. Then add the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a froth. Beat together sufficiently to mix well. Fill a dish and bake in an oven for eight or ten minutes and serve with a Cream Sauce. ‘Boiled Bacon.

Petit Salé Bouillt, ner as for boiled ham.

Fried Bacon.

Petit Salé Frit.

Cut into very thin slices, put in the frying pan and fry to a nice golden brown. This is a fine breakfast dish. Creole Sausage.

Saucisses a la Créole, It has been said by visitors to New Orleans that the Creoles excell other cooks in preparing appetizing sausages. From the old Creole negresses, who used to go about in the early morning crying out “Belles Saucisses!" “Belle Chaurice!" to the “Boudins” and “Saucissons” so temptingly prepared by the Creole butchers in the French Market, the Creole sausage enters largely into domestic cooking and forms a delightful flavor for many dainty dishes, especially of the vegetable order, while in the preparation of the famous “Jambalaya,” the “Chaurice” is one of the most necessary and indispensable ingredients,

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t eS Chaurice.

4 Pounds of Lean, Fresh Pork. 2 Pounds of Fat Fresh Pork. 2 Large Onions, Minced Very Fine. 1 Clove of Garlic, Minced Very Fine. 1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper and Chili Pepper (very hot).

1 Teaspoonful of Red Pepper. 3 Teaspoonfuls of Salt.

2 Teaspoonfuls of Finely Ground Black 1 Sprig of Thyme, Well Minced. 3 Sprigs of Parsley, Finely Minced. 2 Bay Leaves, Chopped or Minced Very ‘ine, % Teaspoonful of Allspice, Very Fine. Hash the pork as fine as possible— fat and lean—-and mix together. Then season highly with the salt, the black pepper and Cayenne, Chili and red pepper (pimento). This high seasoning distinguishes the Creole sausage from all others. Chaurice must be seasoned very hot, so do not fear to have too much red pepper. Mince the onion and garlic as fine as possible, then add to the Chaurice. Mince the herbs as fine as possible, and add, and then mix the finely ground spices thoroughly with the Chaurice. Hash all together, and when well mixed, take the casings (the Creoles always use the entrails of the sheep for this purpose) that have been well cleaned by the butcher. Scald them and wash thoroughly again. Dry them and fill with the mixture, tying them in the lengths you desire.

Chaurice is fried in boiling lard for breakfast, always having sufficient to have the sausage swim in it, then serve, after draining of all grease, on a hot dish with minced parsley thrown over as a garnish. It is used most extensively in making “Jambalaya,” and a few Chaurice thrown into the pot of boiling cabbage or beans add greatly to the flavor. Chaurice With Creole Sauce. Chaurice, Sauce @ la Créolc. 2 Pounds of Chaurice (about 6 to a pound).

1 Clove of Minced Garlic.

% Can of Tomatoes, | 1 Teaspoonful of alt.

1 Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 1 Large Onion. % Spoon of Lard. Place a half teaspoonful of lard in the frying pan or stewpan, and when it heats add the chopped onion. Let this brown slightly and then add the minced garlic. Then add the half can of tomatoes. As this browns put in the sausage which you have pricked gently. Cover and let them simmer for about five minutes, then add the seasonings to taste. Add about a half cup of boiling water. Cover well and let all simmer for twenty minutes longer.

Chaurice With Purée of Potatoes. Chaurce @ la Purée de Pommee de Terre. 2 Pounds of Chaurice.

4 Irish Potatoes. 1 Egg, Well Beaten. Prick the sausages and lay them in the bottom of a pan. Make a soft Purée of Potatoes (see recipe) and pour this over the sausage. Then spread a beaten egg very evenly on top, sprinkle with bread crumbs, and place in the oven and let it bake a half hour. This is a njce breakfast or luncheon dish.

Saucisses, Saucisses, unlike Chaurice, are made from pork. veal and beef mixed together. Take 2 Pounds of Lean Beef.

2 Pounds of Lean Pork.

1 Pound of Lean Veal. 1 Pound of Fat ork.

2 Large Onions, Minced Very Fine. 1. Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper. 1 Tablespoonful of Black Pepper. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Salt.

3 Bay Leaves, Minced Very Fine. % Spoon Each of Ground Cloves, Mace, Allspice and Grated Nutmeg. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Minced Thyme and Sweet Marjoram.

Chop and hash the meat (fat and lean) very fine, mincing it, and then seasoning highly with salt, pepper and Cayenne, mixing well. Add the minced onion and garlic, mix well, and then add the finely minced herbs and spices. Mix thoroughly and fill the casings (which you have bought from the butcher and washed again thoroughly) carefully with the mixture, in lengths of about two feet or one foot and a half, stuffing tightly. Tie at both ends and let them stand overnight in a deep brine. Take out as much as desired, wipe dry and cut into slices and fry, or fry the sausage, the whole length, in boiling lard, and then slice nicely. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve. Saucissons.

Saucissons are sausage made from the lean, fine flesh of the pork and the filet of beef. Take

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eS 2 Pounds of Fresh Pork, Very Lean. 1 Pound of Fat.

1 Large 2 Pounds of Filet of Beef. 1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne Pepper. 1 Teaspoontul of Black Pepper. 3 Teaspoonfuls of Salt.

1 Bay Leaf, Chopped Fine. % Teaspoonful Each of Ground Allspice, Cloves, and % Nutmeg. % Teaspoonful Each of Fine Herbs. Mince and hash the meat very fine, mixing the beef and pork and fat. Then season highly with the Cayenne, salt and pepper, mixing thoroughly. Season next with the minced onion and garlic; mix well, and then with the minced herbs and spices, mixing all thoroughly. Fill the casings, which are never very large for Saucissons. Tie them in sausages of about a finger in length, or three inches, and they are ready to be cooked. Saucissons are always fried in boiling lard and served whole, placing several on each plate. Boudins.

Boudins are blood sausages and are much affected by the Creoles. Take 1 Pound of Hog or Beef Blood (1 pint). % Pound of Hog Fat. 2 Onions. Salt, Pepper and Cayenne to Season Highly, Mince the onions fine and fry them slightly in a small piece of the hog fat. Add the minced garlic. Hash and mince the remaining fat very fine, and mix it thoroughly with the beef blood. Mix the onions, and then season highly, adding of allspice, mace, clove and nutmeg a half teaspoonful each, finely ground, and a half teaspoonful each of fine herbs. When all is mixed, fill the prepared casings, or entrails, pressing them full, being careful to tic the sausage casing at the further end before attempting to fill. Then tie the other end, making the sausage into strings about two feet long. Wash them thoroughly on the outside again, and then tie them in spaces of three inches or less in length. Place them to cook in a pot of tepid water, never letting them boil, as that would curdle the blood. Let them remain on a slow fire till you can prick the sausage with a needle and no blood will exude. Then take them out, let them dry and cool.

Boudins are always fried in boiling lard. Some broil them, however. Boudins Blancs.

1 Pound of the White Meat of Fowl (left over).

1 Pound of Lean Pork. 1 Pound of Fat Pork. 1 Pint of Cream. % Cup of Soft Bread.

\% Teaspoon of Ground Spices. 1 Onion. 1 Teaspoonful Cayenne. Salt and Pepper, 1 Teaspoonful Each. Cut the meat and mince. Season highly with the salt and pepper and Cayenne. Add the minced onion and garlic. Mix well with half a cup of soft bread, wet and squeezed -very well. Cook all for about fifteen minutes in one pint of cream. When reduced take off the stove, add the beaten yolks of two eggs, stir well and cool. Fill the prepared entrails, tying both ends, and place them in a pot containing half milk and half water. Boil them for about twenty minutes and then prick gently, place in buttered papers and broil gently. The left-overs of rabbit, chicken, turkey, partridge and other birds may be prepared in this manner, as also the left-overs of crawfish or crabs. This is a Creole hors d'oeuvre. Chitterlings.

Andouitlies, 2 Pounds of Fat Pork. 2 Pounds of Lean Pork.

1 Pound of Inner Lining of Stomach of Hog.

2 Cloves of Garlic. 3 Bay Leaves. 1 Tablespoonful Each of Salt and Pepper. 1 Teaspoonful of Cayenne. 1 Teaspoonful of Chili Pepper. % Teaspoonful Each of Mace, Cloves and Allspice, ground fine. 1 Tablespoonful Each of Minced Thyme. Sweet Marjoram and Parsley. Select the largest intestines of the hog, wash thoroughly two or three times and let them soak for twentyfour hours in fresh water, changing the water frequently. Then drain and dry well. Cut them into threadlike pieces of about one inch in length, and hash the pork, lean and fat together; mix thoroughly with the threads of intestines or inner stomach of the hog, and season highly with the salt, pepper and Cayenne and Chili pepper. Mince the onion and garlic and herbs as fine as possible and add to the meat. Add the ground spices and mix and hash all together very fine. Take six or eight of the large intestines that have been thoroughly soaked and cleansed and

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after scalding and drying the casings thoroughly fill them with the pork mixture. Tie into the desired lengths and use as needed. This is a very fat sausage and entirely too rich for delicate stomachs. When tied into large sausages about the size of the hand they are called “Andouilles.” When tied into small sausages they are styled “Andouillettes.” The latter are the more delicate. This sausage is generally served with mashed potatoes, a purée of peas or lentils. The chitterlings are first boiled in an aromatic water, with an herb bouquet, or in milk; they are then broiled, or baked in the oven for eight or ten minutes.

CHAPTER XVI.

De la Tolailte.

Roast chicken, roast turkey, roast goose, roast duck are welcome dishes on every table. The entrées that are made from poultry are various, such as Turkey Daube, Fricassées of Chicken, with truffles, mushrooms, green peas, rice; Ragduts of Ducks, Chapons au Gros Sel, Poulardes a la Sauce Tartare, Poulet Sauté a la Créole, all manner of croquettes and salads, and goose entrée @ la Chipolata. Full-grown poultry always has the best flavor.

TURKEY.

Dinde, The turkey hen is called ‘“dinde,” the turkey gobbler “dindon.” The preference in eating is always given to the “dinde,” as the “‘dindons” never make quite such excellent dishes. Turkey may be roasted, stewed or Made into gumbo. Only a very old and lean turkey is ever stewed. It is utilized in this way as a home dish, never on the company table. The boned turkey is the triumph of the New Orleans cuisine when serving cold turkey. No great reception or buffet luncheon is complete without it. Roast Turkey.

Dinde Rotie.

1 Turkey. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter, Dressing According to Taste. A hen turkey is always best for roasting. Clean and prepare the turkey. Make a nice stuffing either of oysters, egg, truffles or chestnuts (see Dressings for Fowls). Rub ‘the turkey well with salt and pepper inside and out, and then rub the inside with butter, using about a half teaspoonful. Stuff first the space from which you took out the craw and then sew up the slit in the skin, fastening the skin by a piece of thread tied around the neck or folding it over and fastening with a small skewer. Then stuff the body of the turkey. Push the legs under the skin near the rump, cross them and fasten them with a small skewer or tie with a piece of twine. Turn the wings back, under the body of the fowl. Rub the turkey all over with butter or lard, and place in the baking pan that has been greased lightly. Bake the turkey in a quick oven, allowing about fifteen minutes to every pound. Baste every ten minutes or so with its own drippings. When done, remove the twine and the skewer and place on a hot dish, garnished nicely with parsley, and serve. The turkey breast should always bo carved in delicate slices. In making the dressing of any kind, always take up the liver and heart, which you have seasoned well and minced very fine, and add to the turkey dressing, mixing thoroughly. Roast Turkey With Truffics. Dinde Trufféc Rotie.

1 Fine Young Hen Turkey.

1 Pound of Lean Ham, Cut into Dice. 2 Pounds of Truffles, 14 Nutmeg. % of_a Teaspoonful of Pepper. 1 Bay Leaf, Minced Fine.

Clean and prepare the turkey for roasting as directed in the above rec-

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a ] ipe. Put a saucepan on the fire and put in the ham cut into dice. When hot add two pounds of the very best truffes and the grated nutmeg, the *pepper and a minced bay leaf. Stir over the fire for about fifteen minutes. Then take off and let cool. When it is cold stuff the place at the neck of the turkey where the craw was, and sew up well and arrange as indicated in the directions for dressing a turkey. Stuff the body of the turkey with the remainder of the truffies and sew it up and truss it. Set it in the oven and roast according to the above recipe, serving with a Sauce aux Truffes. This is a very expensive dish.

Roast Turkey With Mushrooms. Proceed in the above manner, substituting mushrooms instead. Turkey With Chestnuts or Oysters. Dinde Rétie Farcte auz Marrons ou’ auz Huttrea.

Prepare the turkey in the manner indicated in “Roast Turkey”; stuff according to taste with either a Chestnut or Oyster Dressing (see recipes under chapter “Stuffings and Dressings for Poultry, Game,” etc.) and cook as in recipe for “Roast Turkey.” Chestnut and Oyster Stuffings are favorite Creole dressings for turkeys. Turkey cn Daube.

Dinde en Daube.

1 Large Turkey..

1 Bunch Each of Parsley, Thyme and Small Celery Leaves.

Large Slice of Salt Pork.

2 Onions and 2 Carrots, Sliced. 10 Cloves. % Calf’s Foot.

1 Clove of Garlic. Bouquet of Sweet Herbs.

1% Pints of Broth or Boiling Water. Clean and prepare the turkey as in the above directions, then stuff either with egg dressing or oyster stuffing. Rub well with salt and pepper. Place at the bottom of a deep pot slender strips of salt pork and half of a calf’s foot, well prepared. Place on top of this the slices of onions, carrot, fine herbs, minced nicely; garlic, minced, celery, parsley, etc., and lay the turkey on this bed. Pour over it one quart of good broth or boiling water. Season well to taste and cover tightly. Set on the stove to simmer very slowly for at least five hours if the turkey is old. Turn it once very carefully when half cooked. After five hours lift the turkey out of the -sauce, place on a hot dish, strain the sauce through a sieve, and serve hot in a separate dish. If not to be used at once, pour it over the turkey and set it away to cool. It will become quite jellied and makes an excellent luncheon dish.

Boned Turkey.

Galantine Truffée @ la Gelée. 1 Young Turkey Hen.

2 Pounds of Young Veal.

1 Pound of Fat Fresh Pork. 1 Pound of Lean Fresh Pork. % Pound of Gelatine.

¥% Can of Truffles.

1 Tablespoonful Each of Minced Parsley and Thyme.

3 Minced Bay Leaves. 1 Lemon. 2 Carrots. 1 Turnip. 1 Stalk of Celery. 2 Gallons of Water.

% Teaspoonful Each of Grated Cinnamon and Allspice.

For this highly prized dish, select @ young hen turkey. It must be hand-picked—that is, it must not be scalded, or it will be unfit for the purpose of boning. Clean it thoroughly, put it on the table, breast down, and take a sharp penknife, or a very sharp-pointed knife, and cut the turkey open from the meck to the rump, down the backbone. Then, with great care, run the knife between the bones and the flesh to the wings, and, on reaching the joint, unjoint and separate the bones from the body without breaking the flesh; in like manner remove each bone as you reach the joint, except the small bones in the tips of the wings, which cannot be taken out easily and are generally left in place. Carefully slit out the bones of the leg, and then run the knife between the bones and flesh till you come to the breast bone. Skillfully separate the flesh from the bone by running the knife between, being careful to pull it out without breaking the flesh of the turkey. After removing the carcass, spread out the turkey, which will be whole, wipe it very carefully with a damp towel, and rub well with salt and pepper, inside and out. Set aside in a cool place and prepare the following dressing or stuffing: Take two pounds of young veal, one pound of young, fat, fresh pork, and one pound of lean fresh pork. Mince these as fine as

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es ee} possible, and then season as follows: One-half of a nutmeg, finely grated; tablespoonful of minced parsley; one of minced thyme, three of minced bay leaves, one teaspoonful of salt and one of black pepper, a teaspoonful of grated cinnamon, one-quarter teaspoonful of grated allspice and the juice of one onion. Mix all this thoroughly in the stuffing. Add two raw eggs, beaten well; stir well. When well mixed add one-quarter of a box of truffies, chopped, but not too fine. Take the turkey, lay it open and carefully cut a layer of meat in nice slices from the inner part. Then put in a thick layer of the stuffing, and put over this a layer of the meat, using the whole liver, sliced in strips, also as alternate layers; then put in the rest of the stuffing as a layer, and bring the turkey nicely together and sew up so that it will retain its original shape. Roll the turkey in a towel, and tie it securely at both ends and around the middle in a solid way. Take all the bones of the turkey, the skinned feet, cleaned head and all, and place in a large pot. Add two pounds of veal, cut in pieces, and two calf’s feet. Put in two carrots, one turnip, several sprigs of thyme and parsley, three bay leaves and a large piece of celery. Add two gallons of water, and let this boil very hard for an hour. Then add the turkey, which you have tied up in the towel, and let it boil for two hours. After two hours, take the turkey out of the towel. It will have shrunken up by this time and the towel will be crinkled greatly. Roll the towel out very smoothly again, and place the turkey back in it while hot, and roll carefully again. Tie it at both ends and across the middle, and then place on a table and put a board or plank on top, and over this a fifteen-pound weight. Leave it in a cool place, but not in the ice box, as it must cool gradually and naturally. After it has cooled five or six hours you may put it in the ice box.

In the meantime, let the turkey water, bones, etc., boil for two hours longer, then drain the whole through a strainer, first letting the juice fall in another pan; then strain this through a towel, for there must be no pieces of cinnamon or herbs or dregs in this jelly. Skim off all the grease that floats on top, being careful not to leave a particle. Put it on the fire again, and let it simmer. Add to the boiling mixture one lemon and skin, cut in four or five pieces, and season with salt to taste. Put in a bowl one-quarter of a pound of gelatine, and add one pint of water in which the turkey has been boiled; stir well and let the gelatine melt. When well melted, pour into the boiling mixture and beat it as you would a cake, mixing thoroughly. Break three raw eggs in a bowl, mash the shells and add; add one small wineglass of water and beat well again. Prepare a@ flannel bag of size sufficient to hold a half gallon. Then pour the eggs into the broth, beating very thoroughly and rapidly through and through for ten minutes, while it remains on a slow fire, for the moment it begins to boil up it will curdle; then take the mixture off and strain in the flannel bag. Let this fall preferably into several tin cups or cans, and set on ice. The next morning it will be hard. Then unroll the turkey and put it in a dish; cut the jelly from the cans into fancy shapes and ornament the turkey with it, making a fancy border around the dish. You will have a dish that a king might envy.

Boned chicken may be prepared in exactly the same way.

Poulet.

Chickens may be broiled, boiled, fried, stewed, baked or smothered. For broiling, always purchase spring chickens. For baking, the chicken must be young and tender. For invalids, a delicately boiled spring chicken, with Drawn Butter Sauce, ts a most nutritious and easily digestible Broiled Chicken.

Poulet Grillé.

A Spring Chicken. Melted Butter. Select spring chickens for broiling. Clean the chickens nicely, singe, and then split them down the middle of the back, laying the chickens open. Break the breastbone with a mallet and flatten out each chicken. Season well with salt and pepper, and brush with melted butter. Have the broiler ready over a moderate fire, and place the chickens in it (the double broiler

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is best) and let the fowls broil slowly for about a half hour or a little longer if not very tender. It is well to keep a plate over them all the time, so as to retain the flavor. Turn each chicken frequently, so that it may be broiled through and through. It should be slightly browned on the skin side. When done, place in a heated dish, pour melted butter over them, garnish with chopped parsley and serve hot. A garnish of cresses is very pretty. The dish is then called “Poulet Grillé aux Cressons.” Boiled Chicken.

Poulet Boutllt.

ASpring Chicken. Drawn Butter Sauce. Select a nice spring chicken, clean and singe and split down the middle of the back. Season with salt and pepper, rubbing well on the inside of the chicken. Place in a saucepan and cover well with water, and let it simmer well for one hour if the chicken is young. If the chicken is a year old and over, let it simmer for two hours or longer, according to age. When done place it in a heated dish. Pour over it a Drawn Butter Sauce (see recipe) and garnish with chopped Creamed Chicken.

Poulet @ la Creme, Select a fine one-year-old chicken, and clean, singe and boil according to the above recipe, first having cut in joints, however. In boiling always simply cover the chicken with water, otherwise you will have chicken soup, all the nutriment of the chicken being absorbed by the soup. When cooked for an hour or longer, if the chicken is now very tender, place it in a dish and pour over it a Cream Sauce (see recipe), and serve. Deviled Chicken.

Poulet a la Diable, 1 Chicken. 1 Tablespvonful of Butter. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of % of a Clove of Garlic.

1 Teaspoonful of Prepared Mustard. Salt and Pepper. A Dash of Cayenne. Boll the chicken according to the above recipe. Mince the meat fine. Make a sauce by putting into a saucepan one tablespoonful of butter. and as it melts add one onion, minced very fine; a sprig of minced parsley, one minced bay leaf, and a half clove of minced garlic. Let it simmer gently without browning and then add one tablespoonful of flour, well sifted. Mix thoroughly, and add three tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Stir well and add one pint of the water in which the chicken was boiled. Season with salt and pepper to taste and a slight dash of Cayenne. Then add one teaspoonful of prepared mustard. Let it simmer three minutes longer, and as it comes to a boil pour it over the chicken and serve. Any remains of cold chicken are very delicious served with this ‘Sauce A la Diable.” (See recipe “Meat Sauces."’) Chicken a la Tartare.

Poulet @ la Tartare, 1 Spring Chicken.

1 Tablespoonful of Thyme.

1 Bay Leaf, Minced Fine.

1 Chopped Onion.

Boil the chicken according to the above recipe, adding the chopped vegetables and herbs. Season to taste. When done place on a hot dish, butter nicely and serve with a Sauce a la Tartare. (See recipe.) A broiled chicken may be served in the sanie manner, but either broiled or boiled, the chicken must be cooked whole, splitting down the back. Stewed Chicken, Brown Sauce. Fricasée de Volaille, Sauce Brune. 1 Chicken. 1 Onion.

Clean and cut the chicken into pieces at the joints. Season well with salt and black pepper. Chop the onions fine. Put a tablespoonful of lard into the stewpot, and, when hot, add the onion. Let it brown slightly and then add the flour which has been well sifted. Let this brown and add the chicken. Let all simmer a few minutes and then add the chopped thyme, parsley and bay leaf. The latter must be minced very fine. Stir well and often. When every piece is nicely

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eee — browned, add one pint and a half of boiling water or soup broth. Stir until it begins to boil. Season again to taste. Cover and let it simmer gently for an hour, or until tender. In making a fricassée, the liver, heart and gizzard of the chicken are all thrown into the stew. Dish up tho chicken, pour over it the hot sauce and serve. This dish is very nice with boiled rice or potatoes. This plain fricassée is a ‘simple, elegant dish, within the means of everyone. Stewed Chicken, White Saucc. Fricasée de Volaiilc, Sauce Blanche. 1 Chicken. 1 Onion.

2 ‘Tablespoonfuls Flour. 1 Pint Fresh Clean and cut the chicken into joints and clean the gizzard, liver and open the heart. Season well with salt and pepper, and put all into a stewpan on a moderate fire. Cover well with boiling water. Let simmer for an hour and a half, or more or less, according to the age of the fowl. Add the juice of two large ontons. Cook until tender. This is the unvarying rule in stewing or cooking chickens, as one may be tender and the other quite tough, though of the same age. When the chicken is done, blend together one large tablespoonful each of butter and flour in a frying pan without browning; add a pint of milk and mix well. Add this to the chicken, mixing and stirring constantly till it boils. Salt and pepper to taste. Take from the fire and add the beaten yolks of two eggs and a little chopped parsley. Serve hot. Chicken Sauté a la Créole. Poulct Sauté @ la Créole.

2 Fine Spring Chickens.

6 Large, Fresh Tomatoes, or % Can. 6 Fresh, Sweet Green Peppers. 1 Pint of Consommé or Bolling Water. Take two spring chickens and clean nicely and cut into pieces at the joints. Season well with salt and pepper. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a stewpan, and when it melts add the chicken. Let this brown slowly for fully five minutes. Havo ready three largo onions sliced. Add these to the chickens and let them brown. Add two tablespoonfuls of flour; let this brown. Then add a half dozen large, fresh tomatoes, nicely sliced, or a half can of tomatoes, and let these brown. Cook very slowly, allowing the mixture to simmer gently. Add chopped parsley, thyme and bay leaf, and two cloves of garlic finely minced. Let all brown without burning. Cover and let it smother over a slow but steady fire. The tomato juice will make sufficient gravy as yet. If you have sweet green peppers, add a half dozen, taking the seeds out before adding and slicing the peppers very fine. Stir well. Let all smother steadily for twenty minutes at least, keeping well covered and stirring occasionally. At this stage, pour in one cup of Consommé, if you have it; if not, one cup of boiling water. Let it cook again for a full half hour, very, very slowly over a steady fire, and season again to taste. Cook ten minutes more, and serve hot. Chicken With Mushrooms.

Poulet Sauté aur Champignone. 1 Fine Spring Chicken. % Can of 2 Chopped Onions. 1 Clove of Garlic. % Square Inch of Ham to Season Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf.

Cut into joints and season a nicely cleaned chicken. Put it in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, and let it simmer for about ten minutes, browning slightly. A mushroom sauco is never dark. Add two nicely chopped onions, and let these brown slightly; then add one-half of a square inch of ham, chopped very fine indeed. Add thyme, parsley and bay leaf, following v.arefully the order given in mixing the ingredicnts. A minute later add the garlic, which has been minced very fine. Let all brown together for ten minutes. Cut the mushrooms into halves, put them with their water into the pot, stirring well. Let them simmer five minutes. Cover the pot closely, so that it can smother well. If the sauce appears too thick add about a half cup of broth or boiling water. Season to taste, and let all cook very slowly for an hour longer over a steady fire. The secret in smothering chicken is to let it cook

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Eee slowly, so that the seasoning may permeate the flesh and the slow heating may make it tender and most palatable.

Chicken With Truffles.

Poulet Sauté auz Truffes.

ner as in the above recipe, only add a half can of truffles instead of the mushrooms. This is an expensive Chicken and Rice.

Poulet au Riz.

1 Fine Chicken.

2 Small Turnips. 2 Carrots. 2 Onions. 1 Small Piece of Lemon Peel. 1 Small Piece of Red Pepper Pod. 2 Whole Cloves, without the Seed. 3 Sliced Tomatoes.

2 Quarts of Water. 2 Tablespoonfuls Clean and cut and season the chicken well with salt and pepper. Let the butter melt in a _ saucepan and add the seasoned chicken. Let it brown well, and add the vegetables, all chopped very fine. Then add the minced herbs and garlic, and after this the spices. Let all simmer gently for ten minutes, pour over it two quarts of boiling water, stir and seasun again to taste, set it back on the stove and let it simmer steadily and slowly for three-quarters of an hour. When two-thirds cooked, add one cup of well-washed rice, stir well, seasoning again to taste. Do not let the rice become mushy, have the grains stand out. Let all cook for twenty minutes longer and serve, taking out first the pieces of chicken and ranging the rice around as a garnish. Serve with the sauce poured over the top.

Chicken Stewed With Green Peas. Poulet Sauté aux Petit Puia. 1 Nice Chicken a Year Old. 1 Pint of Green Peas.

2 Chopped Onions. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Pint of Fresh Milk. % Square Inch of Ham. ° Thyme, Farsley and Bay Leaf. Cut and season the chicken nicely. Put It in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, and let it simmer nicely for about ten minutes without browning. Add two nicely-chopped onions and let these brown slightly. Then add a square inch of ham, chopped very fine, and minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf, one sprig each. Add the garlic, nicely minced. Let all brown together, slightly simmering all the time. Then pour in one pint of boiling water, set it on a low fire and let simmer gently for an hour and a quarter. About twenty minutes before serving add one pint of milk. Serve with the green peas heaped around the chicken, which should be placed in the center of the dish. Pour the gravy over the whole. Chicken With Dumplings.

Poulet auw Echaudés.

1 Fine Year-Old Chicken.

2 Dozen Small Dumplings.

Prepare a Plain Fricassée, Brown or White Gravy, and, about twelve minutes before serving, add the dumplings, dropping them in lightly, and bring the chicken to a brisk boil. (See recipe for Dumplings.) Place the chicken and dumplings in the dish, pour the hot gravy over them Chicken & la Jardiniére.

Poulet & la Jardintere, 1 Fine Chicken.

6 Small Onions. 1 jeblespoonful of rd.

Bay Leaf. % Head Cauliflower. % Cup of Green Peas.

3 Small Artichokes.

Cut and stew the chicken as in Fricassée Brown Gravy. After adding the water, add a half dozen small onions, and let it simmer for an hour, or until tender. Then add one-quarter can of mushrooms, a small half head of cauliflower (nicely chopped), a half cup of green peas and several cooked artichokes. Set upon-a quick fire, mix well and add a pint of good broth or water; let all cook for twenty minutes longer and serve hot. Smothered Chicken.

Poulct Braisé.

1 Chicken. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. This is a most delicate and palatable way of cooking chickens. After

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cleaning the young chicken, split down the back and dredge with salt and pepper. Put a tablespoonful of lard into the frying pan, and, when it is hot, add the chicken. Let it simmer gently for about fifteen minutes, then add a half cup of water and set on a slow fire, and let it simmer gently and steadly for about an hour. Serve with a garnish of chopped parsley. Some smother the chicken in butter, but this is according to taste. Butter always makes a greasier dish than lard when frying or smothering Breasts of Chicken Louisiana Style. Bupréme de Volatlle Loutsianatse. The Filets of 2 Chickens.

1 Small Onion, sliced. 1 Minced Bay Leaf.

1 Blade of Mace. 4 Cloves. The filets are the white meat on either side of the breast bone. In one chicken you will have four filets. Form this white meat neatly into filets by patting and flattening. Then season well with salt and pepper. Put the butter into the stewpan and add the sliced onion, the bay leaf (whole) and the spices. Let all simmer without browning. Then lay in the filets of chicken, being careful not to let them brown. Let them simmer gently and add one cup of the water in which you have boiled the dark meat of the chicken. Let all simmer gently for an hour. When done, arrange the filets tastefully on a dish, garnish with parsley sprigs and Crofitons of bread nicely shaped in diamond form and fried in butter. The dark meat may be utilized in making salads, croquettes or boudins.

Breasts of Chicken, Queen Style. Supréme de Volatile a la Reine. 6 or 8 Breasts of Chicken. 2 Truffles. 2 Ounces of Chicken Forcemeat. % Cup of Mushroom Liquor.

1 Pint of Hot Sauce & la Reine. Under the breast of each chicken is found a small filet. Carefully remove this, and set aside on a dish for further use. Take a small, sharp knife and make an incision three inches long and one inch deep in the inner side of each breast; season Nghtly with salt and pepper, and then stuff each breast with great care, using two ounces of chcken forcemeat (see recipe), mixed with two truffles and four mushrooms, all finely minced. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a stewpan; lay the breasts in gently. Take each small filet, press gently into shape and flatten; make several small incisions and place within a fine slice of truffle, about an inch in diameter. Carefully lay on top of each breast lengthwise. Brush lightly with melted butter. Pour into the pan, but not over the breasts, the mushroom liquor. Cover tightly and set in the oven for fifteen minutes. Send to the table hot.

Smothered Chicken.

Poularde Etouffée.

1 Young Hen. % Pound of Nice Bacon. 1 Lemon. 2 Carrots. 2 Onions. 1 Herb Bouquet. 1% Cups Broth. This is a nice way to utilize young hens. Clean and singe the chicken nicely, and; after taking out the entrails, truss it as in roasting turkey. Place in the frying pan small pieces of fat bacon, cut in very slender strips of about the size of your finger. Placo over this slices of lemon, very fine, and cover again with slender bits of bacon. Moisten this with a half cup of water and lay over it two carrots, cut in thin slices, two onions cut likewise, and a teaspoonful each of thyme, parsley and one bay leaf, minced fine. Place on top of this the chicken and cover closely. Let it cook on a good fire for three-quarters of an hour, or a half hour, if the chicken is exceedingly tender. When done, take out the chicken, add onehalf cup of broth to the liquor in which it has been boiling. Stir well and season highly, and pour over the chicken and serve. A sauce of tomatoes may also be made and served with this dish.

Fried Chicken.

Poulet Frit.

1 Spring Chicken.

3 Tablespoonfuls of Lard. 2 Egga. Clean and cut the chicken into joints. Dredge well with salt and pepper. Make a nice batter with the eggs and flour and roll the chicken in this, patting Hghtly. Place in the hot

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rr rT eee lard in the frying pan and let it cook for about three-quarters of an hour, watching carefully that it may not burn. Serve on a platter’ garnished with chopped parsley and cresses, Fried Chicken, Cream Sauce. Poulet Frit a la Creme.

1 Spring Chicken.

3 Tablespoonfuls of Lard.

Salt and Pepper. 1 Tablespoonful of Clean and cut the chicken at the joints. Dredge well with salt and pepper and a little floun Put the jJard into the frying pan, and, when hot, add the chicken, letting jt fry slowly for three-quarters of an hour until done. Be careful not to burn. When done, arrange the pieces on a hot dish. Pour off all the fat that remains in the frying pan but one tablespoonful. Add to this a tablespoonful of sifted flour. Mix thoroughly and then pour in a half pint of rich cream or milk. Season well with salt and pepper, let it come to a slight boil and pour over the chicken Roast Chicken.

Poulet Roti, 1 Chicken. % Tablespoonful Butter. Procecd in exactly the same manner as for roasting a turkey. (See recipe.) The chicken must bake in a quick oven, allowing fifteen minutes to every pound. A roasted chicken may be stuffed or not, according to taste, with a stuffing of oysters, eggs or truffles (see Dressings for Fowls) in exactly the same manner as turkey.

Chicken & la Reine Poulet 0 la Reine.

2 Chickens a Year Old.

% Pound of Nice Bacon. 1 Carrot, cut ne.

1 Onion, cut fine.

1 Quart of Broth or Water. Clean the chickens and truss as for roasting. Then dredge inside and out with salt and pepper. Cut the bacon into very thin strips, about the width of a match and cover the bottom of the stew-pan. Lay over this the carrots and onions, sliced fine, and put another layer of salt meat in delicate strips. Put the chickens in this and cover well and set inside of a hot oven. After twenty minutes add the boiling broth or water and the bunch of sweet herbs. Let the chickens cook for two hours, turning them at the end of one hour and basting occasionally. Put the chicken in a hot dish, boil the gravy down to a half quart, skim off all the grease and pass through a sieve and pour over the chickens and serve.

Casserole of Chicken.

Casserolc de Folaille.

% Cup of Cream.

2 Cups of Louisiana Rice.

A White Fricassée of Chicken. Make a Fricassée of Chicken, White Gravy. Boil the rice according to recipe (see Boiled Rice) and then mash the rice thoroughly and add the butter und season with salt and pepper. Take a raised pie pan or casserole and press the rice into this, and set away to cool. When cool cut out the center of the rice and fill the wall and bottom with the white fricassée of chicken. Cover the top with the rice which you have cut out, laying on lightly, so as not to press the chicken sauce through. Beat an eee well and brush over this. Set in the oven and bake.. Serve with Mushroom Sauce, Chicken’ Souffié.

Bougié de Poulet, 1 Pint of Chopped Left-Over Chicken. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of % Cup of Stale Bread.

Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the flour, and mix nicely without browning. Then add the milk and stir constantly till it boils. Add the bread crumbs and cook for one minute longer. Then take from the fire and add the chicken, which has been hashee very fine and seasoned well with salt, pepper and Cayenne, judging according to the taste. Beat the yolks of the eggs and add, mixing thoroughly. Then beat the whites to a stiff froth and stir very carefully into the mixture. Grease the bottom of a baking dish with butter and put the mix-

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ee ———————————————————_—_________.______ ———SSeeeeSeeFeSeSeSeSeSFSSMSSSSSsFsFeFeFeFeFeFsFeFsseF ture in this, baking for twenty min- Stir constantly and let it come to a utes in a quick oven. Serve immedi- boil. Then remove from the fire and ately while hot, or it will fall.. fill the patties. Set the covers on, serve on a hot dish. Pork tongues, blanched sweetbreads and all other Chicken Pie. “Bouchées” are prepdred in the same Fol-au-Tent de Volaille.

manner.

1 Tablespoontul of Tara ° ‘ablespoonful o: Td, 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Boned Chicken.

1 Sprig Each of Thyme, Bay Leaf and Galatince Truffée a la Gelée. pensley. Proceed in exactly the same manner as for boned turkey and serve.

Clean and cut the chicken into (See recipe Boned Turkey.) small pieces of about two inches in length and make a plain fricassée.

(See Fricassée Brown Gravy.) Pre- Chicken Croqucttes. pare a Vol-au-Vent Paste (see rec- Cro uettce ae a ofattte. ipe), and fill a two-quart tin pan oung Chicken.

with the Paste. Then pour in the 2 Small Onions, Panay, beat. chicken fricassée, and bake it in the 1 Large Tablespoonful of Butter. oven till the top crust is _ nicely 1 Cup of Milk. browned. Always bake the under 1 Teaspoontul of Salt. Cayenne and Pepper to Taste.

Boil the chicken as directed in the recipe for boiling. Then, when cold, remove all the tough fibers and nerves, Hash the chicken well and season with the minced vegetables and sweet herbs, mixing all thoroughly. Then take a cup of soft bread, wet it and. squeeze and soak in a cup of milk, in Chicken Patties, Queen Style. - which you have beaten two eggs. Mix crust first. This is a delightful entrée at any feast. Vol-au-Vent of pigeons, young veal or frog legs is made in the same manner. A Vol-au-Vent of Frogs is called “Grenouilles a la Poulet.” The Vol-au-Vent Paste is difficult to make.

Petites Bouchées, @ ta Reine. all this with the chicken very thor1 Small Young Chicken. oughly and season to taste. When 12 Rounds of Puff Paste. well mixed form the meat into cylin1 Tablespoonful of Flour. drical shapes and brush with a little % Pint of Milk. Can of Mushrooms. butter. Then roll in a beaten egg and A_Pinch of Grated Nutmeg. roll again in powdered bread crumbs. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Fry in boiling lard and serve hot on Roast or broil the chicken nicely. a plate garnished with fried parsley. Make a Puff Paste. (See recipe.) Cut Left-overs of cold turkey or cold a dozen rounds wth a biscuit cutter; chicken may be utilized in this way. mark a smaller round or top for a cover. Brush with a beaten egg. and mark on the surface of each with the Chicken Balls, Queen Style cutter, dipping it each time in hot Boudins 4 la Reine. water, so that the marked outline 1 Young Chicken. - 2 Small Onions. 1 Bay Leaf.

may remain perfect. Set in a brisk 4 Sprige of Farsiey. 1 Cup of Milk, oven and let them brown nicely for 2 Eges. % Grated Nutmeg. twelve minutes. Then remove the 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. covers gently with a knife and fill Salt and Pepper to Taste. with the following ingredients: Re- Boudins & la Reine are made in exmove all the chicken meat from the actly the same manner as croquettes, bone and chop very fine. Put atable- only the mixture is placed in a fryspoonful of butter in a sautoire or ing pan and fricd in butter, using stewpan and add a tablespoonful of about a tablespoonful. To this is sifted flour. Stir till smooth. Pour added about one pint of milk. Beat in gradually a half pint of hot milk the chicken thoroughly in this, add till the same reaches the consistency a4 grated nutmeg, then take off the of a thick cream. Season to taste fire and add two eggs, well beaten. with salt and pepper and a little nut- Fill custard cups with the mixture, 1 meg, and add one-half can of mush- place in the oven setting in a pan of rooms finely chopped and the chicken. boiling water and covering with

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paper. Let them bake thus as you would a cup,custard for twenty minutes, and take off the paper and let them brown. Serve hot. All cold roasts, whether of turkey or chicken, may be thus utilized.

Boulettes Boulettes are prepared in exactly the same manner as boudins, only the meat is formed into boulettes, or small balls, and patted on either side to flatten slightly.

Chicken Salad, Mayonnaise Sauce Mayonnaise de Volailte.

Left-overs of Cold Chicken or a Freshly Boiled One.

Celery. 1 Onion.

Celery, Asparagus Tips and Boiled Beets to Garnish.

A Sauce & la Mayonnaise.

The remains of cold chicken are used for this. But it is always preferable for dinners to boil the chickens nicely and use only the white meat. The dark meat, however, is equally good, though it may not look so pretty. After cooking the chickens till tender, pick out all the white meat into small pieces of about an inch or less, and add chopped celery of the whitest fiber and very tender. Mix thoroughly, using two parts of chicken to one of celery; add a finely chopped onion and salt and pepper to taste. Put this on a dish, spread over it a nice Mayonnaise and garnish with celery and asparagus tips, olives, and sliced red beets and lemon. Chicken Livers Fotes de Volatile, Chicken livers may be prepared as “Foie de Volaille Sauté,” or ‘Foie de Volaille en Brochette.” These are prepared in exactly the same manner as in the recipes for cooking beef's liver. (See recipe.) CAPONS Chapone.

Capons of either turkey or chicken are cooked in exactly the same manner, generally being best when boiled or roasted.

Chapon Farcie a la Créme corresponds to Creamed Chicken, and Chapon a la Poele corresponds to Poularde & la Poele, and are particularly recommended. (See recipes.) GUINEA FOWL Pintade.

The guinea fowl is eaten only. when very young, and then it makes a nice, palatable dish. All the directions given for cooking turkey may be followed in preparing this fowl, and it is unnecessary to repeat them here. (See recipes for Cooking Turkey.) GOOSE.

Ote.

The goose is a much tougher fowl than either the chicken or turkey, and requires longer to cook. It is also dryer meat, and in roasting requires a little water poured over it. Never roast a goose that is more than eight months or a year old, and never eat one over three years old. Wild geese not more than one year old, and yard ducklings of similar age, are broiled in the same manner as spring chicken. The fatter the goose the more tender and juicy the meat. Roast Goose Ote Rotie, 1 Young Goose. 4 Onions.

1 Cup of Mashed Potatoes.

% Teaspoonful of Thyme.

4 Apples. 1% Tablespoonfuls of Lard. A roast goose, properly prepared, is a very savory dish, whether the fowl is wild or tame. But, as mentioned above, the goose must be tender. If the breast bone yields easily to pressure and the pinions are very tender, the legs smooth and yellow and free from feathers, the goose is young. In picking a goose never scald it, as this utterly ruins the flesh. The goose must be hand picked. Then singe and clean, and season well and roast as you would a turkey, allowing, however, twenty-five minutes to every pound. It may be served with a Giblet Sauce as roast chicken.. Apple Sauce or Currant Jelly is always served with Roast Goose, preferably the Apple Sauce. Any stuffing used in baking a turkey may be used for roast goose, such as oyster or egg, etc. But the following is an excellent special dressing and seems to bring out more than any other the flavor of the goose:

Take one cup of mashed potatoes, four apples, peeled nicely and cored,

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re neerenareeeenenae] ee ——— and four onions, one-half teaspoonful of sage, powdered -well; one-half teaspoonful of thyme, and pepper and salt to taste. Place the apples and onions and herbs in a saucepan and put in water sufficient to cover nicely. Let all cook together till soft. Then mash well and rub through a sieve. Add the cup of mashed potatoes and mix well, seasoning with salt and pepper. Stuff the body and craw, sew up and truss the goose. Put into the roasting pan, rubbing a half tablespoonful of lard over it and pouring on it a half cup of boiling water. Baste the goose very frequently, say every ten minutes, so that it will be fine and juicy. It generally requires at least an hour and a half to roast well, but the rule of twenty-five minutes to the pound is a good one to follow. A “Green Goose” is always best for roasting, but this must be covered from the beginning with a piece of buttered paper, else it will brown before cooking. Serve with Apple Sauce.

Goose Daube Ote en Daube.

Prepare in exactly the same manner as Turkey Daube (see recipe). A goose that is not so young may be cooked & la Daube.

Goose & la Chipolata Ote @ la Chipolata.

1 Fine Young Goose.

% Pound of Chaurice. 1 Can of 1 Dozen Large Chestnuts, nicely roasted and skinned.

1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. 3 Spriss of Parsley.

4 or 6 Bits of Lemon Peel. 2 Onions. 1 Pint of Boiling Water. % Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter. 1 Spoon of Flour.

Place the lard or butter in the ctewpot and when it melts add the onions, which have been nicely sliced. As they brown add the goose, which has been cleaned, singed and nicely cut at the joints into pieces, and well rubbed with salt and pepper, and the sausage, Which must be cut in halves. Let simmer for about ten minutes, until every portion is slightly browned and then add the minced herbs and garlic. After three minutes add the spoonful of flour, mixing well, and let it all simmer for ten minutes longer, then pour in the can of mushrooms and their water, and add immediately the chestnuts. Let the goose cook till tender, and serve hot. Fat Livers Des Fotes Gras.

The livers of geese that have been caged tightly, so that they can make no movement, and which have been kept in a very high temperature, much higher than that of the atmosphere—geese which have been deprived of every ray of light—are used for the famous dish, “Foies Gras.” The French first discovered this manner of caging geese, doing it at their ancient stronghold of Strasbourg. At Toulouse the livers of tame ducks were treated in the same manner. The Creoles brought over the custom to the old French colony of Louisiana, whence it has spread to all portions of the United States. While the livers of the geese or ducks become soft and fat under this treatment, the rest of the body suffers, and becomes so very fat that the goose flesh is good for nothing; or, as the Creoles say, “Plus bonne a rien.” Foies Gras are now sold in cans in every large grocery establishment in the United States. They come already cooked, in such shape that they can easily be made into any of the delectable dishes that so delight “‘bons vivants.” The most famous of these dishes is the Patties of Foies Gras Patés de Fote Gras.

1 Terrine of Foles Gras, 1 Pound of Fat Pork.

1 Pound of Goose Fat.

% Can of Truffles.

A Puff Paste.

Procure the fat livers of geese. (They are no longer to be bought except already prepared in cans, Terrine de Foie Gras aux Truffies du Perigord, Strasbourg.) To this allow one pound of fat pork and one pound of goose fat. Chop these and the livers very fine, allowing a pound of the fat meat and goose fat to the same quantity of livers. Season well with salt and pepper, and moisten. Chop a half can of truffles and mix, and put all in a quart size baking pan, which has been lined with Puff Paste. (See recipe.) The pan must be about two and a half

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ed or three inches deep. Bake this paste and then fill in with the foles gras. Cover with a light layer of the dough, and decorate around the edges with the clippings of dough that remain. Place the pie in the oven, and let it bake for about an hour to a nice brown, covering for the first threequarters of an hour with a piece of paper to prevent burning. When done, serve in the dish in which it was baked. This is the real Creole Paté de Foie Gras, Stewed Foies Gras Foies Gras cn Matelote.

1 Terrine of Foies Gras.

Thin Strips of Bacon.

1 Carrot. 1 Onion.

Get the prepared Foies Gras. Cut them into slices or filets. Lard them with a larding needle and then place at the bottom of the saucepan small strips of bacon, cut very thin and fine. Add one carrot, nicely sliced; one onion, nicely sliced, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Cover this with narrow strips of bacon, and moisten. Add the juice of a lemon and let it simmer well for a few minutes. Then add the livers, and let them simmer for ten minutes longer. Season to taste, cook five minutes more and serve hot. In seasoning, the livers prepared in this manner must always have a stimulating Loaf of Foies Gras Pain de Foie Gras, Foiles Gras. % Can of Mushrooms. ¥% Can of Truffles. 2 Shallots. Bay Leuf.

1 Leaf of Rose Geranium.

¥% Teaspoonful Each of Ground Cinnamon, Allspice, Cloves and Mace. 1 Young Swectbread.

% Cup of Soft Bread.

The Yolk of an Egg.

Choose sufficient livers for the number of guests, for this is never an everyday dish, and plice them in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let them simmer gently and add a half can of mushrooms and a quarter of a can of truffles, two shallots, nicely minced; a sprig each of thyme, bay leaf and parsley, minced fine; salt and pepper to taste, and a half teaspoonful of prepared mustard; the leaf of one geranium, minced fine, and a quarter teaspoonful each of ground cinnamon, allspice, cloves and mace. Mix this thoroughly and let it simmer in the juice of the mushrooms for about twenty minutes. Then take a young sweetbread and cook according to recipe for Plain Fried Sweetbreads, and add a half cup of soft bread, well moistened with milk. Mix this with the hashed sweetbreads, and add the yolk of an egg. Place this in a mortar with the foies gras and mix well. Then turn into a pan and brush lightly with the beaten yolk of an cgg, and sprinkle grated bread crumbs over. Set in a pan of boiling water (Bain-marie), and bake in the oven for about a half hour.

Foies Gras Loaf Jellied Pain de Foics @ la Gelée.

Foies Gras. 1 Slice of Fat Fresh Pork. 1 Slice of Lean Pork (Grated). % Can of Truffles.

1 Calf's Foot. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. ¥% Teaspoonful of Ground Allspice, Cinnamon, Cloves and Mace. Cup of Soft Bread.

Bits cf Lemon Peel.

This is prepared in exactly the same manner as the above, only the sweetbreads are omitted, and in their place is added an egg, well beaten, and a piece of grated lean and fat fresh pork meat. Add a half can of mushrooms again and a quarter of a can of truffles, and a piece of calf’s foot. Cook into a mixture of the consistency of gravy, mash well and strain in a sieve after seasoning very highly; add the juice. Let this simmer for about five minutes and add the pint of boiling water. Set on a low fire, put in the bits of lemon and let it cook for about two hours, or less, according to the age of the goose. When done, skim carefully of all grease and at the moment of serving add the juice of one lemon to the mixture, This is a very rich dish, and is served as an entrée.

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CHAPTER XVII xP IGEONS 2c.

” Pigeons..

Pigeons are of two kinds, those of the dovecote and those that are shot on the wing, commonly called doves. The latter are always broiled, just as one would broil any other bird or a tenderloin beefsteak; else they are roasted in little bands of bacon. The former are prepared in various ways, as, indeed, the latter may be also, only the wild taste is more apparent when broiled or roasted.

Broiled Pigeons Pigeons Grilés, 6 or 8 Young Squabs. ° 6 or 8 Pieces of Buttered Toast. Squabs are always best for broiling. Pluck and clean nicely inside and out. ‘Wipe with a damp towel. Split down the back and spread open as you would a broiled chicken. Have the gridiron very hot. Rub the pigeon inside and out with salt and pepper, and brush lightly with butter. Place the broiler over a moderate furnace fire, from which all the gas has been exhausted, and let it broil slowly ten minutes on the inner side and five minutes on the outer. In the meantime toast a piece of bread for every pigeon that you broil. Moisten well with butter. Place the squabs upon the toast, sprinkle thickly with chopped parsley and butter, and serve hot. It is always well to rub the pigeon with a Httle lemon juice, as this makes the flesh nice and white.

Pigeons Broiled a la Crapaudine Pigeons @ la Crapaudine.

4 Pigeons. The Yolk of an Egg. 1 Cup of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of A Tomato Sauce.

This is a famous Creole dish, the object veing so to dress the pigeons that they will resemble little frogs, hence the name, “Pigeons a la Crapaudine.”

Clean the pigeons nicely, inside and out, and then carefully cut the breast from the loin joints, without separating entirely. Raise the breast up from the shoulder joints, and pass it over the head of the pigeon, without separating it from the shoulders. Then press it down very firmly with your hands or a masher. Have ready the yolk of one egg, well beaten in a cup of milk. Season well with salt and pepper. Soak the pigeons in it, rolling over and over, so as to gather up the seasoning. Then pass them through bread crumbs, rolling and then patting each pigeon with your hands, so that the crumbs will hold. Brush each with a little melted butter. Have ready a double brofler, well heated, but on a slow fire. Place the pigeons on it, broiling very slowly. Broil for fifteen or twenty minutes, allowing from seven to ten minutes to each side, and serve with Tomato Roasted Squab Pigeons Rotia sur Canapés. 6 or 8 Young Squab.

6 or 8 Thin Slices of Fat Bacon. Truffles (if desired).

6 or 8 Slices of Buttered Toast. Use squab only for roasting. Clean nicely, and then truss the pigeon as you would a turkey, only use wooden skewers to hold the wings and legs in place. Take a slice of nice fat pork and fasten it around the body of each pigeon, passing over the breast. Put a bit of butter about the size of @ pecan in each bird, and, if you can afford to do so, you may stuff with truffies. But this is a matter of taste. Put the pigeons in the roasting pan, and add a tablespoonful of butter and

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’ rn) about two tablespoonfuls of water. The oven should be hot, but must not be scorching. Baste the birds frequently, and let them roast from fifteen to twenty minutes, according to their size. Prepare toasted bread, one slice for each pigeon. Butter well, and then remove the fat pork and place the pigeons on the toast. Pour ovér each a little of the gravy which has been made in the roasting pan, allowing it to soak into the bread. Serve hot, with a jelly, preferably Cranberry Sauce. (See recipe.) Compote of Pigeons Pigeons en Compote.

6 Fine Fat Squab. A Half Can of 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Onion.

% Cup of Consommé.

Clean the squabs nicely; singe. draw and truss, with their legs inside. Rub well with salt, pepper and three cloves and three allspice, ground very fine. Melt a tablespoonful of butter slowly in a saucepan. Add the sliced onion, and as it browns add the sliced carrot. Let this simmer gently for three or four minutes, and then add a@ minced sprig of thyme, and parsley, and one bay leaf and the clove of a garlic, minced very fine. Let all this brown, and then lay it on top of the pigeons, which have been bound with thin strips of bacon tied around them. Cover well. Let this simmer for about fifteen minutes till the pigeons are niccly browned, and then add a half cup of consommé, if you have it; if not, a half cup of boiling water. After ten minutes add a half can of mushrooms. Let all simmer gently for an hour longer, being careful not to let the pigeons go to pieces. Place each pigeon on a toasted Crofton, and garnish with the mushrooms. Pour the gravy over all and serve hot. This is a most excellent compote. Squab With Green Pcas Pigeons Etouffés auw Petit Pots. 3 Pigeons. 1 Pint of Green Peas. ¥% Inch of Ham. 2 Onions.

1 Sprig Each, of Th me and Parsley. Clean the pigeons nicely, leaving them whole, as you would a fowl that is to be roasted, and truss nicely. Place two finely sliced onions in @ saucepan with a tablespoonful of melted butter. Let them brown slightly, and lay the pigeons that have been rubbed well with salt and pepper, inside and out, on top of the onions. Cover closely and let them smother. Then add for each pigeon one-half an inch of nice ham, minced very fine. Now put in one sprig of thyme and one bay leaf, and the clove of a garlic, minced very fine. Let this smother very slowly for ten or fifteen minutes. When well browned moisten with a cup of consommé or broth, and add one pint of fresh green peas, or one can. Cover tight, and let all simmer over a slow fire for one hour, or more if the Pigeons are not very tender. Serve on a platter, placing the pigeons in the center and heaping the green peas around.

Pigeons and Crawfish Pigeons @ la Cardinale, 3 Pigeons. 2 Dozen Crawfish. 1 Slice of Fat Bacon. 1 Square Inch of am.

1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 1 Herb Bouquet. Clean the pigeons nicely, and rub inside and out with the juice of a lemon. Then rub with salt and pepper, and brush with melted butter. Place thin strips of fat bacon in the bottom of a saucepan, lay the pigeons on this, and cover with another thin layer of strips of bacon. Cover with butter and set in a slow oven, and let them simmer gently. In the meantime prepare a “Poele” as follows: Take a small square inch of ham, chop or mince very fine, and fry in a tablespoonful of butter. Add an onion and a carrot, chopped fine. Let these brown, and then add an herb bouquet, minced very fine. When brown add a cup of bouillon, and let it boil for ten minutes. Pour this sauce over the baking pigeons, and let them cook slowly for about an hour, or until done. In the meantime boil about two dozen nice crawfish, according to recipe (see Crawfish), and, when the pigeons are done, place them on buttered Crodtons and place between each a garnish of crawfish. Add about a half cup of the broth in which the crawfish have been boiled to the gravy in the baking

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dish. Let it simmer for five minutes till reduced slightly, and pour over the pigeons.

Pigeon Pie Vol-au-Vent de Pigeons, 6 Young Wild Pigeons.

1 Onion. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard. 1 Sprig Each Thyme, Bay Leaf and ‘Parsley. Pie Paste.

Clean and cut the young pigeons into small pieces of about two inches in length and make a plain fricassée. (See Fricassée Brown Gravy.) Prepare a Vol-au-Vent Paste (see récipe) and line a two-quart tin pan with the paste. Pour in the pigeons and gravy, and let bake in the oven till the top crust is nicely browned. Always bake the under crust first. Again, the pie may be prepared as follows: After cleaning the pigeons, stuff each daintily with oyster or egg dressing and then loosen the joints with a knife without separating them. Put into a stewpan and make a plain fricassée as above indicated. Let them cook until tender, and season with salt and pepper. Fill the ple dish with the pie paste; put in the birds, pour the gravy over them, cover with 4 crust and bake.

CHAPTER XVIII Gibter.

The number and variety of the game of the Louisiana forests have been the subject of many magazine and newspaper articles and the joy of the chasseurs,’ or hunters, from earliest days. The birds alone are so distinct and remarkable that the great Audubon devoted his life to their study, and h*: volume on the birds of Louisiana stands out as the greatest work extant upon birds. The fact is, that all through the year, from January to December, fancy game may be found in the New Orleans markets, though the game laws are very strict, and no bird is allowed to be shot out of season.

Something to Remember When Cooking Game Game should never be fried. The smaller game is roasted or broiled, and the larger ducks and venison, squirrels and rabbits are made into stews or “salmis.””.

VENISON Du Chevreuil, The meat of Venison may be kept in cold weather at least ten or twelve days, if hung in a cold place; in warm weather for much less time, unless dried. The meat of fresh Venison is of a fine grain, and is always nicely covered with fat. The age of the deer can always be told by examining the hoofs; if jt is young, the hoofs will be very slightly opened; if old, they will stand apart. Of all meats, Venison cooks the most rapidly. Venison is always best when the deer has been killed in the autumn. Wild berries are then plentiful and the animal has thus abundant opportunity to fatten upon these and other fresh, wild food.

Roast Haunch of Venison Cuissot de Chevreuil Rott. A Haunch or Saddle of Venison. Melted Butter.

Watercress to Garnish. Currant Jelly. Prepare the haunch or saddle of Venison in the same manner as you would the roast beef. (See recipe Roast Beef.) Only pour a cup of water over the Venison when putting in-the oven, for it is a dry meat, and ‘requires a little moistening if roasted. Bake in a quick oven, allowing ten minutes to the pound. A haunch of Doe Venison will require in the aggregate half an hour less time to roast

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LS than Buck Venison. To prevent the hoof and hair just above changing color in cooking always bind this with @ coarse piece of muslin, in four or five pieces of thickness, covering the hoof and hair. Wet with cold water, and bind a buttered paper tightly around and over it. Baste every ten minutes, with melted butter first, and then with the drippings of the Venitson. When half cooked, turn the Venison over, so that the other side may cook. Unbind the hoofs and garnish them with quilled paper. Place the Venison on a dish garnished with Watercress. Serve with Currant Jelly. (See recipe.) Venison Stcaks & la Poivrade Filet de Chevreutl @ la Poivrade. 6 Filets or as Many Filets as Desired. Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Sauce Poivrade.

The filets or Venison steaks are taken from any part of the Venison. The best are from the haunch or leg, and cut three-quarters of an inch in thickness. Rub them well with salt and pepper, and then fry in butter, allowing about five minutes to the steak. Venison must be served on a very hot dish and eaten hot. Place in a heated dish, and garnish with melted butter and chopped parsley, and serve with a Sauce Poivrade for Venison (sec recipe), pouring the sauce over the steaks, This is a delicious dish. Saddle of Venison, Currant Jelly Sauce Selle de Chevreutl, Sauce Groseille. A Saddle of Venison Weighing About 5 Pounds, 1 Onion. 1 Carrot.

2 Gills of Consommé, Currant Jelly Sauce.

Skin the Venison neatly and remove all the sinews from the surface. Take fine larding needleseand lard closely. Tie the saddle around four times. Slice the carrot and onion and put in the roasting pan. Place the Saddle of Venison on top of these, sprinkle lightly with a pinch of salt, and spread a half tablespoonful of butter over. Set in a brisk oven and roast for forty minutes, frequently basting the Venison with its own gravy. Before taking it from the pan remove the cord which binds it and place the saddle in a hot dish. Then pour two gills of veal consommé into the pan, set on the stove and let it come to a boil. Then skim the gravy of.all fat and strain over the Venison. Serve with a hot Currant Jelly Sauce as follows: Take a half pint of Currant Jelly and stir till it is thoroughly dissolved. Then put in a saucepan and set on the stove and let it come gradually to a boil, then add a tablespoonful of Sauce Espagnole (see recipe) and let it again come to a boil. Serve with the Venison, sending each to the table separately.

Venison steaks broiled may also be served with this sauce. The steaks are placed in a dish one overlapping the other; the hot sauce is poured over and thus it is sent to the table. Venison Cutlets Broiled Cotelettes de Chevreutl Grillécs. 6 Venison Cutlets.

Chopped Parsley.

Trim the cutlets nicely, rub well with salt and pepper, brush with a little butter, and broil over a quick, clear fire, allowing about eight minutes, or less, according to size to each cutlet. They must always, like all Venison, be under-done. When cooked place in a very hot.dish, pour over a little melted butter and chopped parsley, garnish with watercress, and serve with Currant Jelly.

Stewed Venison & la Créole Salmi de Chevreuil @ la Créole. Venison Steaks, on Rougher Part of the eer.

2 Onions. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Clove of Garlic, Chopped Ver: 1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped 2 Cups of Water.

The rougher parts of Venison are usually used for stewing, but the dish is most delicious when made of Venison steaks. Cut the Venison into twoinch square pieces, and rub well with salt and pepper. Chop two onions very fine, and put them in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of melted butter. Let them brown slightly; then add the Venison meat. Let it brown slightly, and then add one tablespoonful of flour, and let this brown a little. Chop the square inch of ham very fine, mincing it, and add. Then Fine.

ine.

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add the clove of garlic, and two sprigs each of thyme and parsley and a bay leaf, minced fine. Let this brown nicely, then add two cups of boiling water. Stir well, season again to taste, and let it boil for thirty minutes, and serve hot. This dish will be improved beyond estimation if a can of mushrooms is added immediately after adding the water. Serve Venison, Hunter’s Style Chevreutl & la Chasseur.

8 Pounds of Venison Meat.

1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. % Box of Mushrooms. The Rind of a Croftons to Garnish.

Cut the Venison into pieces of about two inches square. Salt and pepper well. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan with the Venison and let it brown slowly. When nearly brown, add an onion, chopped fine, and let this brown slightly; then add the ham, minced very fine, and the clove of garlic and bay leaves and thyme, minced very fine. Stir in with the venison, and let these brown for about two minutes. Then add a tablespoonful of flour and brown for a few minutes more. Add a pint of warm water and let all stmmer for five minutes. Then add a quart of consommé and | t all cook for about one hour. Season again according to taste and add a half can of mushrooms chopped fine, the grated lemon rind and season again to taste. Let all cook a half hour longer and serve on a hot dish with Crodtons fried in Stewed Venison, French Style Civet de Chevreutl & la Francaise. 2% Pounds of Venison (the lower and lean part_preferable).

A Handful of Parsley. 1 Onion. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 12 ‘Whole Peppers. A Half Glass of 2 Pints of Veal Consommé.

1 Ounce of Salt Pork. 12 Small Onions. 1 Dozen and a Half Mushrooms. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Croftons. Cut the Venison into small pieces of about two inches square. Make a “Marinade” by placing the Venison in an earthen jar with one large onion sliced, a handful of parsley, the chopped thyme and bay leaf, the whole peppers, a light seasoning of salt and black pepper, and the vinegar. Let the Venison marinate for twelve hours. Then drain it from the juice and place it in a saucepan with one tablespoonful of the best butter, and let it brown over a moderate fire. After ten minutes add three tablespoonfuls of flour and stir constantly. Then moisten with the consommé. Season again to taste with salt and pepper, and stir until it comes to a boil. Then add the small onions which have been nicely peeled, and one ounce of salt pork and the herb bouquet. Let all cook about forty minutes, and about five minutes before serving add the mushrooms. Take out the herb bouquet and decorate the venison nicely with toasted Crottons, Venison in a Chafing Dish Chevreutl au Réchaud.

8 or 10 Slices of Venison. 1 Tablespoonful of Currant Jelly. 1 Tablespoonful of Water.

This is a most delicious way of preparing Venison. The old Creoles use, if a chafing dish is not available, a little alcohol lamp and a frying pan. Slice the Venison very thin in pieces about two inches long and one inch wide, and about the thickness of a silver dollar. Have the chafing dish on the dining table. The pan must be very hot. The meat must be well seasoned with salt and pepper, and ready to put into the pan. Put a tablespoonful of butter into the dish. Let it get very hot, without burning. Put the slices of Venison in the dish. In one minute turn them over. Take a tablespoonful of melted butter, and blend well with a tablespoonful of Currant Jelly and a tablespoonful of water. Spread this over the cooking Venison. Turn again. Let it cook for five minutes only, and serve very hot. This is one of the finest oldfashioned Creole dishes, and is good for breakfast, luncheon or supper. Bear in 1..1nd that to be delicious it must be made at the table, as it will lose half its flavor if brought from the kitchen to the table.

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ee SS Venison Hash Hachis de Chevreuil, 3 Cups of Left-Over Venison. 6 Potatoes. 1 Herb Bouquet. 1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter, This is a splendid way of utilizing the left-over Venison. After having taken off all the rough edges of the roast and cut out the gristle and hard membrane, hash the Venison into pieces of about one inch in size. Take six potatoes left over, or freshly boiled, and cut into quarters. Chop fine one herb bouquet. Place a tablespoonful of butter or a half tablespoonful of lard into the stewpot, and as it melts add the Venison, seasoned well, and a few minutes later the fine herbs. Mince the clove of a garlic if the flavor is liked and add. Stir constantly without browning much, and add a tablespoonful of flour. Let this brown very slightly, and then add potatoes. Cover and let all simmer for about twenty minutes, and then pour over a pint of boiling water. Season again to taste and set back on the stove and let it simmer gently for about three-quarters of an hour. Cut some Crofatons and fry them in butter; place on a dish and serve with the hash.

WILD TURKEY Dinde Sauvage.

The wild turkey abounds in Louisiana, It is roasted in the same manner as the domestic fowl (see recipe) and is always served with Cranberry WILD DUCKS Canards Sauvages.

The wild ducks, so much enjoyed in Louisiana, are many, but the most famous are the Canvasback Duck, or “Cannard Cheval,” the more delicate “Teal Ducks,” of ‘‘Sarcelles,” and the noted Mallard Ducks, or “Canards Francais." Then we have a species of water fowl called the ‘“Poule d’Eau,” or water chicken, which lives exclusively in the waters of the Louisiana bayous and marshes; as it never comes on dry land, it has been classed by the Creoles among the fish, and is eaten on Fridays and fast days, when flesh meat is forbidden to Catholics.

In the following selected recipes, it must be borne in mind that all “rub outside as thoroughly. tame or domestic ducks may be cooked in the same manner as the wild ducks. For this reason it would be superfluous to give a special section to the former. But the flavor of the wild duck is such that it ia always preferred on Creole tables as the superior bird. Ducks are stewed or roasted. The wild goose, or “‘Oie Sauvage,” is cooked in the same manner as the wild duck and the domestic goose; the “Duckling,” or “Canneton,” in the same manner as the delicate “Teal Duck” or “Sarcelle.” In cleaning all game, remember that they must be hand-picked, and never scalded, as scalding utterly ruins their flavor. Wild duck should not be dressed too soon after being killed.

Canvasback Duck Oanard Cheval.

Epicureans declare that the Canvasback Duck is the King of Birds. And as it feeds mostly on wild celery, it requires no flavors or spices to make it perfect. This flavor is best Preserved when the duck is roasted quickly with a hot fire. And so also with the dainty Mallards or French Ducks.

Mallard Ducks or Canvasback Ducks Roasted Canard Francais ou Canard Cheval ROt 1 Pair of Wild Ducks.

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt ana Clean the ducks as you would a chicken, without scalding, however. Rinse out the inside and wipe well inside and out with a wet towel. But do not wash the duck unless you have broken the gall bladder, as the washing destroys their flavor. Rub the inside well with salt and Pepper, and Place a three-inch lump of butter on the inside. Truss nicely and place the ducks in a baking pan, and brush the tops with melted butter. Pour over two tablespoonfuls of water, and set in a very hot oven, and allow them to bake twenty minutes, if they are not very large, and thirty minutes, if larger than the ordinary size of Canvasback Ducks. A wild duck is never cooked dry. It must reach the point where the blood will not run if the flesh is pierced with the fork in carving. When done, place the ducks in

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| a very hot dish, and serve with their own gravy poured over them. Garnish nicely with parsley or watercress. Serve with Currant Jelly. Always have the plates very hot in which you serve the ducks at table.

Broiled Canvasback Ducks Canarde Cheval Grillés.

1 Pair of Ducks.

Drawn Butter Sauce.

Minced Parsley to Garnish. The Canvasback Duck is very excellent when broiled. Hunters often serve it thus when on long hunts, and it is said the taste of the game just bagged is beyond estimate. Clean ‘the duck nicely, as for broiling a chicken, wipe well and split down the middle of the back in the same manner as for a chicken. Season well with salt and pepper. Rub the duck well with olive oil of the best quality and place on the broiler. Turn it over at least twice, so that it will cook thoroughly through and through without burning. Let it cook from seven to ten minutes on either side. Place on a dish that is very hot, pour over a Drawn Butter Sauce, in which you have squeezed the juice of a lemon, and mixed some minced parsley. Decorate with watercress or parsley sprigs. Bring to the table covered and serve very hot on heated plates. Stewed Wild Ducks Balint de Canards Sauvages 3 la Oréole. 1 Pair of Ducks.

1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Very Fine. 2 ‘ater.

‘ups of Clean and pick the ducks nicely. Cut into joints, or stew whole, as desired. The Creoles generally cut them into joints. Rub well with salt and pepper. Chop two onions very fine. Put them into the stewpan with a tablespoonful of melted butter, and let them brown lightly. Then add the well-seasonea ducks. Let these brown well and add the one square inch of finely minced ham. Add the clove of garlic and two sprigs each of thyme, parsley and one bay leaf, minced very fine. Let this brown with the ducks, stirring frequently, 1 Clove of and then pour over two cups of boiling water. Let this simmer for ten minutes, stirring constantly, so that it will not burn. Season well to taste, ‘and let the ducks simmer well for about an hour.

Ducks Stewed With Mushrooms Salmi de Canarda auw Champignone. 1 Pair of Ducks. 1 Square Inch of Ham.

2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Very Fine. 2 Cups of Water.

Prepare the Ducks for cooking exactly as in the above recipe and proceed to cook accordingly. Immediately after adding the boiling water add a can of mushrooms, and continue cooking according to recipe. The mushrooms add a delicious flavor to the dish. Serve hot, using the mushrooms as a garnish.

‘Wild Ducks, Hunters’ Style Salmi de Canards Sauvages a la Chasseur. 2 Fine Canvasback Ducks.

% Pint of Veal Broth or Water. 1 Dozen Mushrooms, Sliced. 3 Fresh or Canned Tomatoes. Croatons.

Pick the ducks; singe, draw, and, after rinsing clean inside, wipe neatly within and without; cut off the wings, legs and breasts; then take the two carcasses and sprinkle lightly with salt and place in the oven to bake about six minutes. Then remove the carcasses and hash them up. Put them into the saucepan; add a pint of veal broth, consommé, or water in lieu of either of these. Add a herb bouquet tied together, and let the ingredients simmer for about a quarter of an hour over a moderate fire. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and lay in the wings, breasts and legs of the Ducks; season lightly with salt and pepper, set all on a very brisk fire and let cook for a few minutes, on either side. Now add lemon juice and a half pint of Sauce Espagnole and the grated rind of alemon. Take the gravy from the carcasses and strain over the Ducks, and allow all to cook about a quarter

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cf an hour. Then place on a hot dsh and decorate nicely with Crottons fried in butter and cut in dice shape.

Ducks & la Bourgeoise Salmi de Canards 2 la Bourgeoise 2 Fine Canvasback Ducks.

$8 Tomatoes (fresh or canned). 12 Onions. 2 Carrots. Lemon Juice. The Rind of 1 Lemon.

% Pint of Consommé or ‘ater. Prepare the Ducks and cook according to above recipe. After placing finally in the saucepan, add twelve small onions which have been nicely glazed (see recipe Glaze); add the two carrots which have been cut into small dice and cooked in salted water for two minutes, before adding to the ducks; also add a half ounce of salt pork cut into half-inch pieces. Let these cook for fifteen minutes with the ducks and serve on a@ hot dish with Croftons., Stewed Ducks With Turnips Balmi de Canards auz Navete 1_Pair of Ducks. 6 Turnips. 2 Onions, Chopped Fine.

1 Square Inch of Ham, Minced Very Fine.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. This is one of the most delightful ways of cooking wild ducks. The turnip blends well with the flavor of the wild ducks, and a nicer way of serving this vegetable in combination does not exist. Clean the Ducks, and cut into pieces at the joints. Put a tablespoonful of butter into the pot, and, as it melts, add the onions, chopped fine. Let them brown, and then add the pieces of Ducks. Let them brown, and add the minced ham. Immediately after add the turnips, sliced or quartered, and a tablespoonful of sifted flour. Stir well, let the flour brown slightly and add the minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and one clove of garlic, minced very fine. Stir well again, and let it smother for about fifteen minutes, stirring frequently, so that it will not burn. Then add water, almost sufficient to cover the Ducks, and stir well. Cover tight, and let the mixture smother for a half hour longer.

Stewed Ducks, Peasant Style Salmt de Canards 4 la Paysanne 1 Pair or Fine Ducks, French or Canvasback, 1 Dozen Glazed Onions. 2 Carrots. 1 Cup of Green Peas.

1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Tablespoonful of The Rind of 1 Lemon.

Prepare the Ducks exactly as in the recipe for “Stewed Ducks With Turnips” (see recipe), only the turnips are omitted. Add two carrots cut into dice pieces, and twelve glazed onions and the green peas. Serve on a hot dish, with Croftons fried in butter, using the onions as a garnish with the Crofdtons.

Stewed Ducks, French Marshal Style Salmi de Oanards 2 la Maréchale Francaise 1 Pair of Fine Ducks, French or Canvasback.

12 Godiveau Quenelles. 12 Mushrooms. 2. Onions Chopped Fine. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Square Inch of lam.

Crodtons to Garnish.

Prepare the Ducks exactly as in the recipe for “Stewed Ducks With Turnips,” omitting the turnips. Add ten minutes before serving, twelve small Godiveau Quenelles (see recipe) and the lemon juice. Garnish the dish with Crofttons (see recipe) and twelve nicely-cooked mushrooms, cut in two. Send to the table hot. Wild Ducks With Olives Salmi de Canards au Olives 3 Cups of Left-Over Duck.

2 Cups of Broth or Water.

2 Dozen Spanish Olives.

Toasted Croutons.

This is a nice way to utilize the left-over Duck; take all the remains of the Duck and select the good parts, and cut them into pieces of about an inch and a half square. Put a tablespoonful of butter into the stewpan, and, as it browns, add one onion,

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chopped fine. Stir this brown and then add the Duck. Stir well; add the tablespoonful of sifted flour, stir again, and in four or five minutes add two sprigs each of thyme and parsley and one bay leaf, minced very fine. Let this brown well, and smother ‘nicely for about ten minutes. Add a pint of good broth if you have it; if not, a cup of boiling water. Stir well, and season again according to taste. Add about two dozen fine olives, stoned. Let all boil for thirty minutes longer, and serve hot, with garnish of diamond-shaped toasted Crottons.

Cold Wild Duck Canards Sauvages Froids Remains of Cold Duck.

% Tumbler of Currant Jelly. Cut the cold Wild Duck nicely in thick slices, and serve with a sauce maide as follows: Take one tablespoonful of butter, one-half tumbler of Currant Jelly, and one tablespoonful of lemon juice. Warm the butter in the saucepan, add the lemon juice and jelly, thoroughly blended; mix well, and serve with the slices of cold duck. The duck may also be served very deliciously with Currant Jelly alone, and buttered toast. Teal Duck Sarcelle The Teal Duck is the smallest and most delicate of the wild ducks. It is prepared in the same manner as the Mallard, preference, however, being always given to roasting and broiling, on account of its size. The Teal Duck is always broiled whole, without splitting the back.

Teal Ducks Roasted Sarcelles Réttes 3 Pairs of Teal Ducks.

6 Thin Strips of Bacon.

6 Truffles. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Currant Jelly.

Clean the duck nicely and put one truffle and a lump of butter about the size of a peanut, with salt and pepper, on the inside. Rub well with salt and pepper and a little butter melted. Take a thin strip of bacon and bind it around the body of the duck, fastening with a skewer. Place a tablespoonful of butter in the roasting pan, and pour about two tablespoonfuls of water in it, dropping slightly over each bird. Set in a quick oven and bake for thirty minutes, or until done. The bird should always be rather underdone. Have ready a hot dish, garnished with parsley, and a slice of toast buttered for each bird. Place the birds on them, sprinkle over chopped parsley, and take the juice in which the birds have been roasted, pour a little over each bird, so that it sinks down into the toast, and squeeze a little lemon juice over each, and serve hot.

The truffles may be omitted, even if considered very recherché, since the bird is just as good without them. Serve with Currant Jelly.

Teal Duck, Broiled Sarcelle Grillée 3 Pairs of Teal Ducks.

6 Strips of Bacon.

Melted Butter. Chopped Parsley. Olives and Slices of Lemon to Garnish. Clean and prepare the duck in exactly the same manner as for roasting, binding with the strip of bacon. Place on a broiler, turning frequently, and let it broil for about thirty minutes, very slowly. Serve with melted butter and chopped parsley spread over, and the juice of a lemon squeezed in. Garnish the dish nicely with sprigs of parsley, slices of lemon and olives. Serve with Currant Jelly. Teal Duck & la Bigarade Sarcelle @ la Bigarade 3 Pairs of Teal Ducks.

1 Bigarade or Sour Orange, A Sauce a I’Espagnole.

Clean the ducks and take the livers and fry them in a little melted butter. Season well with salt and pepper and a slight pinch of ground allspice and cloves and the rind of a “bigarade,” or sour orange. If the orange is not available, take the rind of a lemon. The rind is the skin of the orange or lemon, scraped off without touching the inner pulp, or white skin. Place this in the interior of the ducks (you must have the boiled livers of five or six for the garnishment of two ducks), and then rub the outside well with salt and pepper. Bind with a strip of bacon and place on the

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Lee ee ree enna nnn eeenp ee oenenpRSeSneEEEEERRIEET SE NESSEEESENSnS SEES broiler. In about thirty minutes it will be done. Cook over a slow fire, turning frequently. In the meantime prepare a “Sauce & l’Espagnole,” and as soon as the birds are done pour off from the broiler all the juice that has fallen, and put this into the sauce with the juice of two sour oranges or citrons. Let it warm without boiling, pour over the birds, which you have placed on buttered toast, and serve hot. This is an old Creole dish, almost lost in our day, but which deserves to be resurrected.

Stewed Rabbit Salmi de Lapins A Pair of Rabbits.

2 Onions. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Clove of Garlic, Chopped Very Fine. 1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Fine. 2 Cups of Water..

Stewed rabbit is a great dish among the Creoles, who hold that this is the only way to cook a rabbit. Proceed as follows:

Skin and clean the rabbit. Wash well and cut into pieces at the joints, and rub well with salt and pepper. Chop two onions very fine, and put them in the stewpan with a tablespoonful of melted butter. Let them brown slightly; then add the rabbit. Let it brown slightly, and then add one tablespoonful of flour, and let this brown a little. Chop the square inch of ham very fine, mincing it, and add. Then add the clove of garlic, and two sprigs each of thyme and parsley and a bay leaf, minced fine. Let this brown nicely and then add two cups of boiling water. Stir well, season again to taste, and let it boil for thirty minutes, and serve hot. Green peas or potatoes, boiled or mashed, make a nice entrée for this Rabbit, Hunters’ Style Lapin @ la Chasseur A Pair of Rabbits.

1 Onion. 1 Slice of Ham.

1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. % Box of Mushrooms. The Rind of a Croatons to Garnish.

Prepare the rabbit; clean and draw, and cut into pieces at the joints. Rub well with salt and pepper; put a tablespoonful of butter into the saucepan with the rabbit and let it brown slowly. When nearly brown, add the onion, chopped fine, and let this brown slightly. Then add the ham, minced very fine, and the clove and Barlic and bay leaves and thyme, minced very fine. Stir with the rabbit, and let these brown for about two minutes; then add a tablespoonful of flour and brown for a few minutes; then add a quart of consommé and let all cook for about one hour. Season according to taste. Add a half can of mushrooms, chopped fine, and the rind of a lemon, and again season to taste. Let all cook for a half hour longer and serve on a hot dish, with Crofatons fried in butter. Rabbit en Matelote Lapin en Matelote A Pair of Rabbits.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Lard or Butter. 6 Fresh, Large Tomatoes, or a Half Can. 1 Large Onion, Chopped Fine. 3 Sprigs Each of Thyme, Sweet MarjJoram, Parsley and Bay Leaf, 1 Quart of Water or Consommé. Skin clean, wash and cut the rabbit into pieces at the joints. Put the lard or butter into a deep stewpan or kettle. When hot, add gradually two tablespoonfuls of flour, stirring constantly to prevent burning. Throw in about ten or twelve well-mashed allspice and three sprigs each of chopped thyme, parsley, bay leaf and. sweet marjoram, one clove of garlic, and one large onion, chopped very fine. Add six fresh large tomatoes, chopped fine, or one-half can of tomatoes. Pour in about one quart of water, and let it boil well. Then add salt and Cayenne to taste, and, when this has boiled about five minutes, add the rabbit, putting in piece by piece. Add the juice of a lemon, and let all boil about ten minutes. Serve with French Fried Potatoes, Mashed Potatoes or Potato Croquettes.

HARE Lievre The hare and the rabbit are very much alike, the principal difference, indeed, being that the rabbit is smaller in body and its ears and legs are shorter.

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DN nd a EEE The hare may be cooked in almost any manner in which rabbits are served. There are, however in vogue among the Creoles some_ special methods, which are given below. In preparing the hare for roasting, it should be first skimned, and then washed well in cold water and rinsed thoroughly in tepid water. If the hare seems a little musty from being emptied before being hung up, rub the insides well with vinegar and again wash thoroughly in warm water. Prepare for cooking as you would a rabbit, wipe well with a soft towel, dress nicely, sew the animal up and truss it, and allow it to roast from three-quarters of an hour to one hour, according to size. Baste occasionally with butter, just before serving. Many consider the meat far more tender and of more delicate flavor than the rabbit. It is generally served with Currant Jelly. Hare, Roasted and Stuffed Lievre Rott 2 Fine Hares. 3 Onions.

1 Carrot. 3 Apples.

2 Ounces of Sausage Meat.

6 Mushrooms. 1 Lemon.

1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Gove. 3 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Glass of Cider.

1 Pint of Consommé.

2 Slices of Bacon.

% Tablespoonful of Pepper. Crottons.

Select two fine Hares and cut them in half. Separate the hindquarters from the fore and then bone them down to the legs. Do not bone the legs. Place the Hares in an earthen dish that is quite deep, then make a marinade as follows: Pour in a glassful of cider, add a small lemon nicely sliced, and a small onion minced fine, one sprig of thyme and one bay leaf, all minced very fine. Season this tastefully with a tablespoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of pepper and two mashed cloves. Take the saddies of the Hares and roll them well in this, and let the ertire Hares steep well in the marinade for twelve hours. Chop an onion very fine and put it in a saucepan on the stove, and, when well heated, put in a tablespoonful of butter, cook for one minute, and then add two ounces of nice chaurice (sausage) (see recipe), chopped very fine; six mushrooms, chopped very fine; a teaspoonful of minced parsley, a teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of pepper; mix well and let all cook for about five minutes. Wash three tart apples and cut them fine, carefully removing the cores; place them in a clean saucepan on the fire, with a half glassful of the best Cider. Let this boil about five minutes, and then add the stuffing and mix well together. Then set the mixture to cool. Take the Hares from the marinade and stuff the boned saddles very carefully and evenly, and give a nice round, even shape; tie them to keep them firm; then place a fine slice of bacon over each saddle, tying firmly. Cut up a carrot and onion into fine slices and place in the bottom of the roasting pan; lay the Hares over these and pour one pint of consommé over the Hares. Place them in a hot oven and roast for three-quarters of an hour, basting frequently with their own gravy. Then remove from the oven and untie. Place the Hares on a hot dish nicely decorated with diceshaped Crofitons, and pour the gravy over the Hares and serve very hot. Hare, Creole Style Civet de Liévre a la Créole 1 Fine, Tender Hare.

1 Large Onion. 1 Dozen Small Onions. 3 Tomatoes, 1 Ounce of Minced Ham.

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 1 Giass of Cider.

1 Teaspoonfuls of Salt.

1% ‘ablespoonfuls of Pepper. 1 Pint of Consommé or ater. Skin, clean, draw and thoroughly wash a fine, tender Hare. Set aside the liver and heart. Cut the Hare into pieces at the joints. Make a marinade by taking a half glass of Cider, one large finely-sliced onion, the thyme and bay leaves (finely minced), and place in a stone jar. Add a half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and a tablespoonful of salt, and place in this mixture the cut-up Hare, and let all steep for six hours. Then lift the pieces out carefully; have ready a saucepan in which has been melted a teaspoonful of butter, and add twelve small onions, glazed (see recipe); one ounce of ham, minced fine; put the Hare into the pan and let all brown nicely for about ten minutes. Then add the flour, finely rubbed, stir well and let brown.

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Add the tomatoes, peeled and sliced fine; let all brown ten minutes longer, and add the remaining Cider and the consommé or water. Stir till it begins to boil; then season according to taste, with salt and pepper. Let all cook for three-quarters of an hour, and add the heart and liver, which you must have finely chopped and thoroughly mixed together. Let all cook for a quarter of an hour longer and serve with toasted Croatons.

Stewed Hare With Onions Gibelotte de Lhévre 1 Fine Hare.

1 Large Onion. 1 Dozen Small Onions. 1 Ounce of Ham.

2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Bay Leaves. 1 Pint of Consommé or Water. Prepare in exactly the same manner as above indicated, only do not use the tomatoes. Use one pint of broth or consommé, and add a half can of mushrooms about ten minutes before serving.

Filet of Hare Sauce Poivrade Filet de Liévre, Sauce Potvrade 2 Fine Hares. 2 Onions.

2 Carrots.

1 Tablespoonful of Lard or Butter.. 1% Cups of Broth or Water. jauce Poivrade.

Take two fine Hares, clean nicely’ and cut the filets neatly from the rack. Lard the surface carefully with fine needles. Season well with salt and pepper. Make a marinade with one cup of broth or water, one onion and one carrot, minced very fine. Let all steep together for two hours; then place the butter or lard in a baking dish, with an onion and carrot, sliced fine. Put the filets of Hare over this and set in the oven and let it cook for a half hour. Baste frequently with the Hares’ own juices. Place the filets on a hot dish, add a tablespoonful of broth to the gravy in which the Hares were cooked; let all come to a boil on the stove; strain the gravy and pour over the filets). Bring to the table hot and serve with a Sauce Poivrade.

Stewed Squirrel Salmi d’Ecureutl A Pair of Squirrels.

2 Onions. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Clove of Garlic, Chopped very. Fine. 1 Herb Bouquet, Chopped Fine. 2 Cups of Water.

Skin and clean the Squirrels; wash well and cut into pieces at the joints. Chop two onions very fine and put them in a stewpan with a tablespoonful of melted butter. Let them brown slightly; then add the Squirrel. Let it brown slightly, and then add one tablespoonful of flour, and let this brown.a little. Chop the square-inch of ham ry fine, mincing it, and add. Then add the clove of garlic, and two sprigs each of thyme and parsley and a bay leaf, minced fine. Let this brown nicely, and then add two cups of boiling water. Stir well, season again to taste and let it boil for thirty minutes and serve hot. This dish will be improved very much, indeed. if a can of mushrooms is added immediately after adding the water. But it is very nice without the mushrooms. Serve Squirrel, Hunters’ Style Ecureutl @ la Chasseur Procure two fine Squirrels, and prepare in exactly the same manner as in the recipe “Rabbit, Hunters’ Style.” Squirrel en Matelote Ecureutl en Matelote Procure two fine Squirrels, and prepare in exactly the same manner as in the recipe for “Rabbit en matelote.” (See recipe.)

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CHAPTER XIX Des Oiseaua As already mentioned, Louisiana points with pride to the quality and variety of the Birds found in her forests. Fine game birds are always heavy for their size; the flesh of the breast is plump and firm, and the skin clear. To be sure that the bird is fresh if purchased from dealers, pluck off a few feathers from the inside of the legs and around the vent; in a freshly-killed bird the flesh will be fat and fresh-colored; if the game has been hung a long time the flesh will be dark and discolored. These are infallible guides in selecting game birds. In serving birds, remember that young Green Peas, or “Petits Pois Francais,” as they are generally called, are nice entrées for all birds. The following are the recognized Creole rules and methods of preparing our delightful “Fancy Invariable Rule for Broiling Birds Otseauz Grillés Prepare the birds by hand picking. If of the very small variety, such as grassets, reed birds, etc., do not pick out the entrails, for there will be little left of the bird but a charred mass. Rub the bird well with salt and pepper, and then with melted butter. Tie a strip of very finely-sliced bacon around the body of the bird, joining with a skewer, and place on a broiler over a slow fire, and let it cook for ten, fifteen or twenty or even thirty minutes, according to the size of the bird. Turn frequently, sp that it may. cook well without burning. When done, take off the broiler. Have ready always buttered French toasts, and place the birds upon them, allowing a slice of toast for each bird. Trim away the rough edges of the toast. It is a matter of taste whether the strip of bacon be removed or not. But in most homes of Creole New Orleans it {s retained, being removed at the table by the person to whom it is served, the hot bacon keeping the bird hot, juicy and tender. Always pour over the bird a little of the juice that has run from it in broiling, and let it soak down into the toast. Pour over a little melted butter and chopped parsley, and lemon juice if you like. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley sprigs, and bring to the table hot. Invariable Rule for Roasting Birds. Olscauz Rotis Prepare the birds in exactly the same manner as for broiling, cleaning out the entrails of the larger birds, and leaving the small ones untouched with the exception of the Papabotte, the gizzards of which must never be eaten, for the Papabotte is a very rich bird. Rub with salt and pepper and melted butter. In the larger birds, if you can afford it, put a truffle or two, for stuffing, and in all puta little lump of butter and a little salt and pepper, a pinch of chopped thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and a small pinch of the four spices, but very, very small indeed. Bind with strips of bacon, and place in a baking pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let them bake or roast thirty minutes or less according to size, and serve always on buttered French toast, over which you will pour, when you have placed the bird upon it a bit of the gravy made when cooking. Prepare this gravy by simply adding a tablespoonful of water, letting it cook two minutes; then strain; let it cook for two minutes more, and pour upon the breast of the bird, so that it will soak down into the toast. Garnish nicely with sprigs of parsley and lemon, and serve hot.

Bear in mind that all large game should be roasted; the small game may be roasted or broiled, according

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SEES PAPABOTTE.

The Papabotte is a summer bird, and is with us from the latter part of the month of June to September. The game laws are very strict, and it is not allowed to be killed out of season. The first Papabottes in the market, like the first Pompano, are much sought after. It isa rich bird, and is the joy of gourmets. ‘Papabotte a la Créole!”"—“Ah!”" they will tell you, “you have a dish that is enough to make a dead man turn alive!” Thus prepared, the dish is sometimes called ‘a la Francais-Créole,” not because the bird has been ever cooked’ by the French in their own domains, for it is unknown in French forests, but because the Creoles in cooking it to the best advantage, adopt the French dressing, which will be explained in stuffing the bird, according to the following distinctively Creole Papabotte & la Créole Papabutte @ la Crévle 6 Papabottes. 6 Truffles.

6 Thin Slices of Bacon. 6 S.ices of Toast.

The Rind of a Lemon. The Juice of 1 Olives and Sprigs of Parsley to arnish, Clean the Papabotte as you would a chicken, and take out the entrails. Separate the gizzards, and be sure to throw them away, retaining all the rest of the entrails for stuffing. Chop the remaining entrails very fine, and season well with salt and pepper. Fry them in about a quarter of a spoon of butter. In the meantime take the Papabotte and rub well with salt and pepper, and put a small piece of butter, about the size of a peanut, with a little salt and pepper, in the Papabotte. Place in it, likewise, one truffle. Bind a strip of thin bacon around the body. Place a tablespoonful of butter in a baking dish, and set the Papabotte in it, and add about two tablespoonfuls of water. Set the dish in a quick oven, and let the birds roast thirty minutes, turning over once, so that they may be perfectly done. When the entrails are fried, add two inches of the rind of the lemon and a little juice. Take slices of toast, allowing one slice for each bird, and spread over each a coating of the entrails, or farcie. Place a bird on each slice of toast, after taking off the binding of bacon, or leaving it on, according to taste. Add one spoon of water to the gravy in which the Papabottes have been cooking, strain it, then warm for two minutes, and pour hot on top of the breast of the bird, allowing it to melt down into the French toasts. Garnish the dish nicely with sprigs of parsley and olives, and serve hot.

Broiled Papabotte.

Papubotte Griué 6 Papabottes. 6 Fine Strips of Bacon. 6 Slices of Buttered French Toast. Sliced Lemon and Parsley Sprigs to Clean the Papabotte well, removing the entrails, and be Particularly careful to throw away the gizzard. Rub the birds with salt and pepper and then with melted butter. Tie a strip of very finely sliced bacon around the body of each bird, joining the bacon with a skewer, and Place the birds on a broiler over a slow fire and let them cook fifteen, twenty or even thirty minutes, according to the size of the birds. Turn frequently, so that they may broil without burning. When done, take off the broiler; have ready the slices of buttered French toast, and place a bird upon each slice. Trim away the rough edges of the toast. Pour over the birds a little of the juice that has run from them in broiling, and let this soak down into the toast. Pour over a little melted butter and chopped parsley, and add @ little lemon juice, if desired. Garnish with slices of lemon and parsley sprigs and bring to the table hot. Roast Papabotte.

Papabotte Roti 6 Papabottes. 6 Truffles (if desired). 3 Sprigs of Chopped Thyme and 1 Bay Leaf, Minced.

6 Thin Strips of Bacon.

1 Tablespoonful of Water.

Sprigs of Parsley and Thin Slices of Lemon to Garnish.

Prepare the Papabottes as indicated in the above recipe. Rub with salt and pepper and melted butter; put a truffie or two into each Papabotte, if

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you can afford it, and put in each bird a little lump of butter about the size of a peanut, a pinch of salt and pepper, and a pinch of chopped thyme and parsley and bay leaf. Bind the birds with the strips of bacon and place in a baking pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let them bake or roast for thirty minutes or less, according to size. When done, place each bird on a slice of buttered French toast, and pour over it a bit of the gravy which you will have made by adding to the birds while cooking, just four minutes before serving, a tablespoonful of water, letting it cook for two minutes; then strain this gravy, and let it cook two minutes more. Garnish nicely with sprigs of parsley and sliced lemon and PARTRIDGES.

Perdreaun Tne Partridge may be roasted or broiled; being a large bird, if roasted it may be stuffed with truffies or any stuffing, such as oysters or egg, and served on toast, as indicated in the recipes for broiling and _ roasting birds.

The term “Perdreaux” is applied by the French to young Partridges, and “Perdrix” to the older birds. In the young birds the tips of the long wing feathers are pointed; in the old birds the tips of the wing feathers are round.

Roast Partridge.

Perdreaua Rotis, ou Perdreaur Piqués Sur Canapés 6 Fine Young Partridges.

6 Thin Slices of Bacon.

2 Sprigs of Thyme.

2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. Toasted Bread.

Parsley or Watercress to Garnish. Clean, singe and draw and wipe the birds neatly; rub each bird well with salt and pepper, and then with melted butter. If it can be afforded, stuff the bird with truffles, placing one or two in each bird, and place inside the bird a pinch of salt and pepper, a lump of butter about the size of a peanut, and a pinch of chopped thyme, parsley and bay leaf, all minced very fine. Bind the birds with thin strips of bacon, and fasten each strip with a skewer. Put the Partridges in a baking pan in a brisk oven, and add two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of water. Let them bake from twenty-five to thirty minutes, according to size, basting occasionally with their own juice. When done, have ready the buttered French toast; place the birds upon the toast and pour over a bit of the gravy made when cooking. Prepare this gravy by adding two tablespoonfuls of water to the Partridge juice after removing the birds; let it cook for two minutes, and then strain and let it cook two minutes more. Pour upon the breast of the birds, so that it will soak into the toast. Garnish the dish nicely with sprigs of parsley or watercress and serve hot.

Roast Partridge, Bread Sauce. Perdreaug R6tis, Sauce au Pain 3 Fine Young Partridges.

Slice of Toast Bread, 1% Ounces of Fresh Bread Crumbs. 4, Cup of Cold Water.

% Cup of Cream or Milk.

%Teaspoontful of Salt.

6 White Peppers, Prepare the Partridges and roast according to recipe for “Roast Partridge.” (See recipe.) Make a bread sauce as follows: Crumble one and a half ounces of fresh bread crumbs and place in a saucepan with a half cup of cold water; add, when the water heats, a tablespoonful of butter. six whole white peppers and a half teaspoonful of salt. Cook for five minutes; then add a half cup of rich milk or cream. Let the whole cook five minutes more. Remove the white peppers. Place the Partridges on the toasted bread, and garnish the dish nicely with parsley sprigs or watercress. Send to the table hot with the sauce in a separate dish. Pour the sauce over the Partridges when serving.

Broiled Partridges.

Perdreauz Grillés 3 Fine Young Partridges.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Bytter. Parsley Sprigs and Sliced Lemon to Prepare the birds as in the above recipe. Cut them in two by splitting down the back, as in broiling a chicken. Rub with salt and pepper and melted butter. Place on a broiler

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en] 130, and let them broil from fifteen to twenty minutes, allowing from seven to ten minutes, according to the size of the bird, to either side during the broiling process. Turn frequently to avoid burning.. Have ready the buttered French toast; place the birds upon it and pour over a little of the juice that ran from the bird while broiling. Let it soak down in the bread; pour over melted butter and chopped parsley, and add a little lemon juice, if desired. Garnish the dish nicely with sprigs of parsley or watercress and send to the table hot. Partridges Hunters’ Style. Perdriz Sautées @ la Chasseur 3 Fine Partridges.

1 Finely Chopped Onion. 12 Whole 1 Bay Leat.

1% Cups of Water or Consommé. Crodtons.

The older birds are used for stewing purposes. Clean the Partridges; singe, draw and wipe well. Cut up the birds as you would a young chicken. Rub well with salt and pepper, and place in a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of butter. After letting them brown well on either side, about three minutes, add the finely chopped onion and carrot, and the minced herbs. Let these brown for two minutes, and add the flour and let all brown nicely. Then add a cup of water or consommé and the chopped mushrooms, Cover closely and cook for fifteen minutes and then serve, using toasted Crofitons as garnish. Partridge, Creole Style.

Perdriz Sautécs @ la Créole 3 Fine Partridges.

3 Large Tomatoes, 1% Cups of Water or Consommé. Croattons to Garnish.

Clean the Partridges; singe, draw and wipe well. Cut up the birds as for Fricasséed Chicken. Rub well with salt and pepper and place in a stewpan, and Iet them brown well on either side. Then add the finely chopped onion and the herbs, minced very fine. Let these brown and add. the tablespoonful of flour. Let brown nicely, and add the chopped tomatoes and their juice; cover and let simmer about five minutes, and then add a cup and a half of water or consommé. Cover closely and let all cook for fifteen minutes and serve hot, using toasted Croftons for a garnish. Partridge With Sour Orange Sauce. Pe-dreaug aux Bigarades 3 Fine Partridges.

The Juice of a Sour Orange. Toasted Crodtons.

‘Watercress or Parsley to Garnish. Broil the Partridges according to recipe for “Broiled Partridge.” (See recipe.) Prepare a “Drawn Butter Sauce" (see recipe), and add the juice and rind of a sour orange. Pour over the birds and let it soak down into the toast. Serve hot, with garnishes of parsley or watercress. Partridge a la Financiére. Perdreauz @ la_Financtére Potage aua Nouilles 3 Fine Young Partridges.

1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 1a Tablespoonful of alt.

1 Tablespoonful of Pepper. 1% Pints of Consommé or Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 3 Truffles. 2 Dozen Stoned Olives.

3 Blanched Chicken Livers, 1 Dozen Mushrooms, 1 Dozen Quenelles of Veal or Chicken. Clean the partridges according to the recipe given. Singe, draw, wipe well and then truss neatly. Rub well with salt and pepper. Take a piece of fat salt pork and cut into strips and lard the partridges with these thin strips, using a larding needle. Then put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a shallow saucepan, let the butter melt, add the onion and carrot, sliced fine, and the minced parsley and bay leaf; lay the partridges over these, cover the saucepan and let the partridges brown till they reach a nice golden color. Then add a half pint of chicken or veal consommé, or if these are not to be had add a half pint of water. Cover the saucepan and let them simmer down for twenty minutes, turning occasionally, so that they may be thoroughly cooked. Then remove the birds, placing them on a hot dish in the oven. Make a Sauce

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renee er Eee a la Financilére by adding to the gravy in which the partridges were cooked one tablespoonful of flour; let it brown and add one and one-half pints of rich chicken broth, one tablespoonful of butter, three sliced truffies, two dozen stoned olives, three blanched chicken livers cut In pieces, one dozen mushrooms, one dozen small balls or quenelles (see recipe) of minced veal or chicken (may be omitted). Season well with salt and pepper, and add a dash of Cayenne. Let all cook for twenty minutes, using a wooden spoon to stir. The sauce should be of the consistency of rich cream. After twenty minutes place the partridges back in the sauce and let them warm for about three or four minutes. Place in the dish, pour the sauce over them and serve hot with garnish of toasted Crodtons, Partridge and Cabbage.

Perdrigw auz Chouz 3 Fine Partridges.

A_ Fine, Tender Head of Cabbage. 12 Claurice (Sausage). % of a Pound of Salt Pork.

1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 4 Cloves. %Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Herb Bouquet.

1 Pint of Veal or Chicken Broth (White).

1 Pint of Beef Broth or Water. Clean the _ partridges, selecting large and older partridges in preference to the young. Clean, singe, draw and wipe well. Then truss them neatly, rub with salt and pepper and butter and place in a roasting pan. In the meantime take a fine, tender head of ‘cabbage, clean thoroughly and cut into four parts. Wash the cabbage well in cold water and put into boiling salted water for five minutes, Then take the cabbage out of the water and drain well; make a hollow in the center of each piece of cabbage; place inside the partridges, cover with the other pieces and tie together. Put in a saucepan the quarter of a pound of salt pork which has been well scalded and washed of all salt and cut into six slices. Add one carrot cut into four pieces, one whole onion into which you will have stuck four cloves, the herb bouquet, the sausage and one pint each of white veal broth or chicken broth, and one pint of water or beef broth. Season with a small Pinch of salt, and a good pinch of pepper, and place the cabbage in this preparation. Put the partridges in the oven and let them roast for ten minutes, Then remove and take the cabbage from the mixture, make a hollow in the center of the cabbage, placé the partridges inside and cover with the remaining portion of cabbage; tie each half separately, then carefully return to the saucepan, placing a piece of buttered paper over to keep the juicy steam from escaping. Cover the saucepan, set in the oven and let the partridges cook thus for an hour. Remove the lid and paper, skim off all that may adhere to the surface, drain the cabbage and slice; dress neatly on a hot dish. Untruss the partridges and lay them on the cabbage, placing on each dressed section a piece of sliced boiled pork, a sausage cut in half; slice the carrots nicely in round pieces, and use these as a decoration, placing them artistically around the dish. Strain the sauce in which the partridges were cooked and let it reduce slightly. Serve with the cabbage and partridge, bringing it to the table in a separate bowl and pouring over the cabbage when serving.

Chartreuse of Partridge.

Charteuse de Perdriz 3 Fine Partridges, A Fine, Tender Head of Cabbage. 12 Chaurice (Sausage)... % Pound of Salt Pork.

3 Small Onions.

2 Turnips. 2 Carrots. 4 Cloves, % Cup of Green Peas.

1% Pints of Veal or Chicken Broth. 1 Pint of Consommé.

Prepare the partridges and cabbage exactly as for the recipe ‘“Partridges and Cabbage.”

Butter a three-pint mold lightly; cut the turnips, carrots and onion into small even pieces, using a vegetable tube; put a layer of the cut vegetables in the bottom of the mold; put on top a layer of the cooked cabbage, cut the partridges into pieces and place a layer of thém on the cabbage, filling in the hollow spaces with cabbage chopped fine and the chopped vegetables; fill in further with the sliced sausage and lay on top six slices of the salt pork; then put on another layer of the partridges, fill

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in the hollow places with the sliced turnips and carrots and onions and the sausage; place on top another layer of cabbage, covering it over well with the cabbage and pressing down very carefully; decorate the mold prettily around the edges with the sliced carrots and turnips and place in a tin baking pan and set in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. Have at hand a hot dish, turn the mold upside down and remove it with the greatest care. Send to the table hot, and serve with a sauce. Breasts of Partridge, Truffle Sauce. Suprémes de Perdreauz, Sauce Perigueuw 3 Fine Young Partridges.

2 Ounces of Sauce A la Hollandaise. Clean, singe, draw and wipe the partridges carefully. Then remove the skin from the breasts. With a sharp knife make an incision on the top of each breastbone from end to end and cut off the entire bréast, including the wing bone, from the carcass. Carefully remove the small filet which lies under each breast and place on a dish aside for further use. Then cut an incision two inches square and just one inch deep in each breast, and on the inner side. Rub well with salt and pepper, and stuff the incision with two tablespoonfuls of chicken forcemeat, to which have been added six finely chopped mushrooms and two thinly sliced truffles. Butter the inside of a tin saucepan and lay the six breasts very carefully in it. Then, take each of the “six small filets that have been laid aside; rub them well with salt and pepper, now make a small incision in the top of each and place inside a thin slice of truffle and brush lightly with melted butter. Tay these filets on top of each of the breasts, and again brush lightly with melted butter. These filets and breasts thus arranged form the supréme. Pour into the pan two tablespoonfuls of the chicken liquor and some lemon juice, cover the pan tightly and place in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. Make one pint of Hollandaise Sauce, add one finely minced truffie and a half dozen minced mushrooms. Place the sauce in a saucepan of hot bolling water and let it heat slowly without boiling. Pour this sauce into a hot dish and then take the pan with the partridges out of the oven, remove the breasts and filets, or “supréme,” place them on the dish with the sauce, garnish nicely with Crottons and send to the table hot. QUAIL.

Oailics The Quail isea most delicious and tempting bird. It delights the most fastidious, and that famous preparation, “Quail on Toast,” or “‘Cailles sur Canapés,” is a dish without which no great dinner is considered complete when quail are in season.

We have two kinds of quail, the blue and the yellow spotted, or pivele. Both are excellent. If purchased in the market or city stores, see that the skin is clear and the breasts full and tender. The Quail is either broiled or roasted, following exactly the same directions given in the recipes for broiling and roasting. In broiling, allow from twelve to fifteen minutes. In roasting, from twenty to twenty-five. Always cook slowly on a low fire.:

Roasted Quail.

Catlles Rotics 6 Qualls.

1 Tablespoonful of Water.

Sliced Lemon and Parsley Sprigs, or Select six fine, fat, tender Quail. Pick, singe, clean and wipe them well. Butter the inside of each Quail nicely and sprinkle lightly inside with salt and pepper. Rub lightly on the outside with butter, then truss the bird and bind the body round with a thin strip of bacon. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a roasting pan and set the birds in the pan and cook in the oven from twenty to thirty minutes, according to size. Have ready the buttered toast. Place on a hot dish, lay a bird on each slice of toast. Add a little butter to the gravy in which the Quails have been roasted, a tablespoonful of water and the juice of one lemon, Tet this cook for three or four minutes, strain and set on the stove for two minutes longer and pour

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ee) over the breast of the birds so that it will soak into the bread. Garnish the dish nicely with parsley and sliced lemon or fresh sliced watercress, and send to the table hot. When served with a garnish of watercress the dish is called “Cailles aux Cressons.” Quail Roasted in Grape Leaves. Cailles aug Feuilles de Vignes 6 Fine Quails.

1 Tablespoonful of Water. The Juice of 1 Lemon.

6 Slices of Buttered Toast. 12 Grape Leaves.

Green Grape Jelly.

Follow the directions given in the above recipe for roasting Quails, only do not wrap the Quails in strips of bacon. Instead, rub the bodies well with butter and then wrap up the birds in fresh grape leaves; set in a baking pan and proceed to roast according to the directions given above. Garnish a dish nicely with fresh young grape leaves, place the Quails on slices of toast and lay upon the leaves and send the dish to the table hot. Serve the Quails with Green Grape Jelly. This is, of course, a rare dish, but is much affected by eplcures. The grape leaves impart a very peculiar and delicate flavor to the Quail.

Roasted Quail—No. 2.

Cailles Rotics 6 Fine, Tender Quail.

1 Tablespoonful of Water. 6 Truffles. 6 Thin Strips of Bacon. The Juice of Parsley Sprigs and Sliced Lemon to To make this delicious dish, clean the Quail and butter inside and throw in a little salt and,pepper. Stuff with truffles, and bind the body, after rubbing, with a strip of bacon. Set in the oven in a baking pan in which you have placed a tablespoonful of butter, and let it roast twenty or thirty minutes, according to size. Have ready buttered toast. Put the birds on the toast. Add a little butter to the gravy in which they have been roasted, and a tablespoonful of water and the juice of a lemon. Let this cook for three or four minutes, strain, set on the stove for two minutes longer, and pour over the breast of the bird, so that it will soak into the bread, and serve with a nice garnish of parsley and sliced lemon, and with green peas as an entrée.

Broiled Quail on Toast.

Cailies Grillées sur Canapés 6 Fine, Fat Quail. 6 Strips of Bacon. 6 Slices of Buttered Toast. Parsley Sprigs to Garnish. Rub the bird well with salt and pepper, and then with melted butter. Tie a strip of very finely sliced bacon _around the body of the bird, joining with a skewer, and place on a broiler over a slow fire, and let it cook for ten, fifteen or twenty, or even thirty minutes, according to the size of the bird. Turn frequently, so that it may cook well without burning. When done take off the broiler. Have ready always buttered French toasts, and place the birds upon them, allowing a slice of toast for each bird. Trim away the rough edges of the toast. It is a matter of taste whether the strip of bacon be removed or not, the hot bacon keeping the bird hot, juicy and tender. Always pour over the bird a little of the juice that has run from it in broiling, and let it soak down into the toast. Pour over a little melted butter and chopped parsley, and lemon juice, if you like. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley sprigs, and bring to the table hot. Quails Broiled With Bacon Catiles Grillées et Bardées 6 Fine, Fat Quails.

1 Tablespoonful of Salt. % Tablespoonful of Pepper.

6 Slices of Bacon. 6 Slices of Toast. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sauce a la Maitre d’Hotel.

Watercress and Sliced Lemon to Clean the Quail, singe and wipe well. Split them through the back without separating the breast and break the leg bones. Rub well with salt and pepper and a little melted butter, mixed together, and put the Quail on a broiler, letting them broil on a moderate fire for fifteen minutes, allowing seven and a half minutes to either side, and turning frequently to prevent burning. Have ready a hot dish with six slices of buttered toast, lay the Quail on top, pour over all a little melted butter (Sauce a la

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Matitre d'Hotel), and then decorate the dish with parsley sprigs, on which lay six nicely broiled slices of breakfast bacon.

Smothered Quail.

Catiles Braisstes 6 Fine, Fat Quails. Carrot. % of an Onion. Cupful of Water. 6 Thin Strips of Bacon.

Select fine, fat Quail, clean, singe and wipe well. Truss neatly and cover with a thin layer of bacon. Then place two tablespoonfuls of butter in” @ saucepan; place the Quail in the pan; add half of an onion and carrot minced very fine, cover and let the Quail brown to a nice golden color. Then moisten with a half cup of water and set the pan in the oven. Cover with buttered paper and let the Quail cook for twenty minutes. Serve on a hot dish nicely garnished with parsley sprigs or lettuce leaves. Braised Quail, Celery Sauce. Cailics Bratsécs @ la Sauce Célert Proceed to clean and cook the Quail as in the recipe given above and serve with a pint of hot Celery Sauce (see recipe) poured over them. Quail Braised & la Financiére. Catlles Bratssées & la Financiere Braise the Quail, as in the recipe for “Braised Quail” and serve with a pint of hot Sauce a la Financiére.. WOODCOCK.

Bécasse The “Bécasse” is a rare bird. It is in season from December till April. In purchasing see that the skin is clear, the breasts firm and plump and the wings tender to the touch. Pluck and clean, but never draw these birds. If you were to serve the Bécasse to an old Creole bon vivant without the entrails he would consider it quite shocking, and his indignation would vent itself immediately in unmistakable terms. The “Bécasse” is always broiled or roasted and served on buttered French toast. If roasted, always put, if you, can, one truffie in the body as a stuffing, and when serving a little melted button on top of the breast.

“and pepper, Roast Woodcock on Toast.

Bécassca Roties sur Canapés 6 Fine Woodcock.

6 Slices of Buttered Toast. 6 Strips of Bacon.

1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley or Prepare the birds as in the “Invariable Rule for Roasting Birds.” (See Rub with salt and pepper and melted butter, put a truffle in each bird for stuffing, and in all put a little lump of butter and a little salt a pinch of chopped thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and a small pinch of the four’ spices, but very, very small, indeed. Truss neatly. Bind with strips of bacon, and place in a baking pan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let them bake or roast thirty minutes or less, according to size; remove from the oven and place on buttered French toast on a hot dish, cover and set over a ‘pot of boiling water to keep warm. Prepare gravy by simply adding a tablespoonful of water to the juice made when cooking the birds, let it cook for two minutes; then strain; let it cook for two minutes more and pour upon the breast of the bird so that it will soak down into the toast. Garnish nicely with sprigs of parsley and lemon, and serve hot. Broiled Woodcock on Toast. Bécasecs Grillées sur Canapés 6 Fine, Fat Woodcock. 6 Slices of Buttered French Toast.

6 Fine Strips of Breakfast Bacon. Parsley Sprigs, and Sliced Lemon to Prepare the birds by hand picking. Singe and wipe well. Rub the bird well with salt and pepper, and then with melted butter. Tie a strip of very finely sliced bacon around the body of the bird, joining with a skewer, and place on a broiler over a slow fire, and let it cook for ten, fifteen or twenty, or even thirty minutes, according to the size of the bird. Turn frequently so that it may cook well without burning. When done take off the broiler. Have ready always buttered French toasts, and place the birds upon them, allowing a slice of toast for each bird. Trim away the rough edges of the toast.

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Always pour over the bird a little of the juice that has run from it in broiling, and let it soak down into the toast. Pour over a little melted butter and chopped parsley, and lemon juice, if you like. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley sprigs, and bring to the table hot. In cooking, and in serving, follow the ‘“Invariable Rule for Broiling Birds.” (See recipe.) SNIPE.

Bécassine The Snipe is one of our finest birds, and is much sought after by epicures. But the glory of our Louisiana forests is that the rich gifts of nature may be had by the poor as well as the millionaire.

The Bécassine is a welcome dish at the most exclusive tables. It is a winter bird, and is with us from December till April, as also the “Bécasse,” or “Woodcock.” If you tell an old Creole that you are going to treat him to “Bécassines” or “Bécasses,”. he will smack his lips and say: you are a connoisseur.”

“Bécassinec” are either roasted or broiled; follow implicitly the directions given in the rules for broiling and roasting birds. Serve in the same manner, with garnish of cresses or parsley, and always on _ buttered French toasts. In selecting Snipe, see that the flesh is clear and firm and the breasts full and tender. Roast Snipe on Toast.

Bécassines Réties sur Canapés 6 Fine Snipe 6 odes of Buttered French Toast. 6 Strips of Bacon. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Parsley. Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley or Prepare the birds as in the ‘“Invariable Rule for Roasting Birds.” Rub with salt and pepper and melted butter. If you can afford it, put a truffle into each bird for stuffing, and in all put a little lump of butter and a little salt and pepper, a pinch of chopped thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and a small pinch of the four spices, but very, very small, indeed. Bind with strips of bacon, and place in a baking pan w'th a tablespoonful of butter. Let them roast thirty minutes or less, according to size, then remove and place always on buttered French toast on a hot dish, and cover and “Ah!”

set over a pot of boiling water to keep warm and juicy. Meanwhile prepare @ gravy by simply adding a tablespoonful of water to the gravy made in cooking the birds; let it cook for two minutes; then strain; let it cook for two minutes more and pour a little upon the breast of each bird, so that it will soak down into the toast. Garnish nicely with sprigs of parsley or watercress and slices of lemon, and serve hot.

Broiled Snipe on Toast.

Bécassines Grillées sur Canapés. 6 Fine Fat Snipe. 6 Slices of Buttered French Toast. 6 Strips of Bacon. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Parsley Sprigs and Sliced Lemon to Garnish. Prepare the bird by hand picking, singeing and trussing neatly, following the “Invariable Rule for Broiling Birds.” (See recipe.) Rub the bird well with salt and pepper, and then with melted butter. Tie a strip of very finely sliced bacon around the body of the bird, joining with a skewer, and place on a broiler over a slow fire and let it cook for ten, fifteen or twenty, or even thirty, minutes, according to the size of the bird. Turn frequently, so that it may cook well without burning. When done take off the broiler. Have ready always buttered French toasts, and place the birds upon them, allowing a@ slice of toast for each bird. Trim away the rough edges of the toast. It is a matter of taste whether the strip of bacon be removed or not. Always pour over the bird a little of the juice that has run from it in broiling, and let it soak down into the toast. Pour over a little melted butter and chopped parsley, and lemon juice if you like. Garnish with sliced lemon and parsley sprigs, and bring to the table hot.

Grassets, Reed Birds, Broiled or Roasted.

Grassets, Ortolans, Grillés ou Rotie 6 or 8 Birds, 6 or 8 Slices of Toast. 6 or 8 Strips of Bacon. Salt and Pepper Sliced Lemon and Sprigs of Parsley or Grassets and Reed Birds are delightful small game that come in the summer. They are with us from July through October. The Reed Birds, or Ortolans, are the terror of

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TS the rice planters of Louisiana. They peck at the rice and spoil the growth, and are, consequently, shot in this season, when the rice is maturing, in order to rid the rice flelds of their presence. The name Grasset is given to indicate fatness and plumpness. These birds are always broiled or roasted, following the invariable rules laid down above. They should be broiled over a clear fire, and do not require much more than five minutes to broil; ten minutes to roast in a quick oven. Serve, whether broiled or roasted, on buttered French toast, and garnish with cresses or parsley sprigs. All small birds should be broiled “en brochette,” that is, a skewer should be run through the body. Salt and pepper after, and pour melted butter and chopped parsley over them. If roasted, they may be served with a brown gravy. Poules d’Eau.

Poules d’Eau 2 Pairs of Poules d'Eau.

6 Turnips. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Onions, Chopped_ Fine.

1 Square Inch of Ham, Minced Fine. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Clove of Garlic. The Poule d'Eau is a_ species of water duck resembling both a chicken and a duck. The Creoles gave it the name of “Poules d'Etau,” or ‘Water Chicken.” As it lives entirely in the water and marshes, never coming on dry land, it is classed among the fish and served as a Friday or fast-day dish. It makes a very delightful entrée, either stewed plain or with turnips. It is never cooked in any other way. As it feeds much on fish, it often has the flavor of fish. In the hands of an inexperienced cook it is sometimes unpalatable on that account. Before cooking parboil a few minutes if there is the slightest odor of fish; add a small peeled carrot or onion to the water and this will absorb the flavor of fish.

Stewed Poules d’Eau Poules d’Eau @ la Créole 1 Pair of Poules d’Eau.

1 Square Inch of Ham. 2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1._Herb Bouquet, Chopped Very Fis.e. 1 Cup of Water. Clean and pick the Poules d’Hau nicely. Cut into joints or stew whole, as desired. Rub well with salt and pepper. Chop two onions very fine. Put them into the stewpan with a tablespoonful of melted butter, and let them brown slightly. Then add the well-seasoned ducks. Let these brown well, and add the one squareinch of finely minced ham. (Omit the ham on fast days.) Add the clove of garlic and two sprigs each of thyme, parsley and one bay leaf, minced very fine. Let this brown with the Poules d’Eau, stirring frequently, and then pour over one cup of boiling water. Season well to taste, and let them simmer well for about an hour. Serve hot with Crofitons for a garnish. Stewed Poules @’Eau With Turnips. Salmi de Poules d’'Eau aux Navcets 1 Pair of Poules a’Kau. 6 Turnips. 2 Onions Chopped Fine.

1 Square Inch of Ham, Minced Very Fine.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. This is the most delightful way of cooking Poules d’Kau. The turnip blends well with the flavor, and a nicer way of serving this vegetable in combination does not exist. Clean the Poules d’Eau and cut into pieces at the joints. Put a tablespoonful of butter into the pot, and as it melts add the onions, chopped fine. Let this brown and then add the pieces of Poules d’Eau. Let them brown, and add the minced ham. (Omit the ham on fast days.) Immediately after add the turnips, sliced or cut in quarters, and a tablespoonful of sifted flour. Stir well, let it brown slightly, and add the minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and one clove of garlic, minced very fine. Stir well again, and let it smother for about fifteen minutes, stirring frequently, so that it will not burn. Then add water almost sufficient to cover the Poules d'Eau, and stir well. Cover tight and let the mixturd smother for a half hour longer.

Game Pic Paté de Gibier 1 Dozen Small Birds, 1 Dozen Eggs. A Rich Pie Crust.

1 Dozen Hard-Boiled Eggs.

2 Cups of Egg Dressing.

Clean one dozen small birds, Snipe, Quail, Woodcock, etc., and wash well,

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inside and out. Stuff each one with a dressing the same as for turkey, ‘using either egg or oysters as desired. Loosen the joints with a knife, but do not separate them. Put them in a stewpan, with water enough to cover them, and let them cook till nearly tender. Then season with salt and pepper again and two tablespoonfuls of butter. Thicken the gravy with one tablespoonful of fiour, let cook for ten minutes more and then remove and set to cool. Butter a pudding dish and line the sides with a rich pie crust (see recipe). Have ready the hard-boiled eggs, cut in slices. Put in a layer of the eggs and a layer of the birds until the dish is full. Pour over the gravy and then cover the pie with a crust and bake to a light brown.

The pie may also be made very nicely by stewing the birds as one would a chicken (see recipe), then lining a pie pan with a rich pie crust; bake lightly, fill in with the stewed birds, pour over the gravy, place a cover of the pie crust on top, set in the oven and bake to a light brown.

Chaud-Froid of Game Ohaud-Froid de Gibier The Breasts of 3 Ducks, or 1 Dozen Breasts of Small Game.

1 Cup of Chicken Forcemeat. 1. Pint of Aspic Jelly.

1 Pint of Poulette Sauce, This is a most recherché dish, seldom made in these days on account of the cost, but in old Creole days itwas a standing dish at every great feast. It may be made with Canvasback or French or Teal Duck, or with Woodcock, Snipe and other small game. The dish demands such beautiful decoration that it requires an artist to make a real Creole ChaudFroid.

Clean the ducks or game or spring chicken, if the latter is used; wash and truss neatly. Then wrap in buttered paper and smother according to recipe for Smothered Chicken (see recipe). When done take out of the paper and separate the breasts of the game or chicken from the legs. Trim them neatly and stuff the portion between the breasts proper and the filets with a chicken forcemeat. (See recipe.) Mix together equal parts of Aspic Jelly and Poulette Sauce. (See recipes.) Stir till thick and surround with crushed ice. Then dip the breasts of the game or chicken into this mixture. Take a fine baking sheet or dish and arrange the breasts in fanciful or pyramidal figures on this dish, and when set decorate them nicely with sliced truffes and the remaining sauce that has been poured into timbale molds that have been previously lined with Aspic Jelly, and which have become set. Decorate nicely with these timbales of Aspic and Poulette Sauce, and garnish the dish with Crodtons, on which you have already placed pieces of Aspic Jelly. Decorate the edges of the dish with watercress, and place on the table cold. When ready to serve, place a portion of the breast of the duck or the entire breast of the small game on a Crofton of Aspic Jelly, with the timbale turned out on the end of the chicken or game and the other end garnished with watercress. If chickens are used be careful to have spring chickens about one and a half pounds in weight.

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CHAPTER XX STUFFING AND DRESSING «FOR POULTRY GAME, FISH. Z7C FORCEMEAT Des Farces—Des Quenelles The Creoles claim that oysters, eggs, chestnuts or truffles are the only elegant dressings for poultry or game, and oysters or egg stuffing for fish. The following are the methods of preparing these dressings: Oyster Dressing Farce aun Huttres 1 Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 1 Onion, Chopped Very Fine. % Square Inch Ham. I Tablespoonful 4, Teaspoonful of Sage.

Bay Leaf, Minced Very Fine. Wet some soft bread and squeeze thoroughly till you have one cup, judging the quantity of stuffing always by the size of the fowl to be stuffed, and adding more in proportion, if needed. Season the bread well with salt and pepper, and add the minced herbs, mixing well. Take a tablespoonful of butter and put in the frying pan. As it melts add the onion, which must be chopped very fine, Let this brown for about five minutes, and while frying add the bread and stir well. Then add the square inch of ham, minced very fine. Mix well and let all fry well. Season again to taste. Then add the two dozen oysters, cut in two, with all the hard portions taken off. Mix all well and fry for a few minutes longer. Then, if you prefer a dry dressing, place the pan in the oven and let the dressing bake for ten minutes. If you prefer, as many do, the moister and richer dressing, stuff the fowl or fish immediately, and proceed to bake. Arrange and bake the fowl as in the directions on these special subjects. Twice the above quantity of bread will be needed, and perhaps a little more, in stuffing turkey. The flavor of sage is very much liked by some and disliked by others. If used—and the Creoles always use it—add a_ teaspoonful sifted, and mix thoroughly with the bread before putting it in the frying pan, if two cups of dressing are used, and less for one cup, in proportion.

Oyster Stuffing for Poultry Farce d’iluttres All depends upon the size of the fowl. For the ordinary-sized fifteen or sixteen-pound turkey take 1 Quart of Stale Bread, Wet and Squeezed.

1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. Tablespoonfuls of Sage. Drain the oysters; wet the stale bread with hot water, squeezing thoroughly. Chop fine the liver and gizzard of the fowl, and put a tablespoonful of lard into the frying pan. Mix in the chopped onions and add the chopped liver and gizzard. As it begins to brown, throw in the chopped herbs, and then add the bread, which has been mixed well and seasoned with the chopped sage. Mix well. ° Add to this one tablespoonful of butter and stir, blending all thoroughly. Now add the pint or so of oyster water, and as it {s reduced mix in the oysters. Stir for three or four minutes and take off and dress the fowl. This dressing is highly recommended.

Stuffing of Truffles Farce aur Truffes ¥% Can of Truffles.

1 Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 1 Onion, Choppe@ Very Fine. % Square Inch of Ham. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.

2% Teaspoonfuls of Sage.

Bay Leaf, Minced Very Fine. as for egg or oyster stuffing, using

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a quarter of a can of truffles chopped, instead of the oysters or egg. But bear in mind that this is an expensive stuffing.

Egg Dressing Farce aux Ocufs 1 Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed Thoroughly.

1 Chopped Onion. % Square Inch of Ham.

1 Teaspoonful of Butter.

4, Teaspoonful of Sage.

Wet the bread and squeeze thoroughly. Chop the eggs fine and mix with the bread. Mince the herbs and add. Season well with salt and pep-" per. Chop the onion and fry it in one tablespoonful of butter. As it browns add the bread, into which you have mixed the sifted sage, if desired. Add, as it fries, the half square-inch of ham, minced very fine. Season again to taste, and let all fry about ten minutes. Take off the stove and stuff the fowl or fish and proceed with the arrangement for baking. Egg dressing is a very nice stuffing for fish, if oysters cannot be had. Stuffing for Goose Farce Pour VOte - 1 Cup of Mashed Potatoes. 4 Apples.

% Teaspoonful Powdered Sage.

% Teaspoonful of Thyme.

Any stuffing used in baking a turkey may be used for roast goose, such as oyster or egg, etc. But the following is an excellent special dressing and seems to bring out more than any other the flavor of the goose: Take one cup of mashed potatoes, four apples (peeled nicely and cored), and four onions; one-half teaspoonful of sage, powdered well; one-half teaspoonful of thyme, and pepper and salt to taste. Place the apples and onions and herbs in a saucepan and add water sufficient to cover nicely. Let all cook together till soft. Then mash well and rub through a sieve. Add the cup of mashed potatoes and mix well, seasoning with salt and pepper. Stuff the body and craw, sew up and truss the goose, and bake according to recipe. (See recipe for ‘Roast Goose."’) Stuffing for Ducks Farce Pour les Canards of Bread, Wet_and Squeezed. Onion, Chopped Very Fine.

% Teaspoonful of Sage.

Bay Leaf, Minced Vory. Fine. The Creoles generally stuff the domestic duck when roasted, using an oyster stuffing. (See recipe.) But many hold that the flavor of the wild duck is finer when not stuffed. This is a matter of taste. The wild duck stuffed with oysters is a most delectable dish.

Ducks may be stuffed with truffles. This is much affected by epicures when serving the famous Mallard or Canvasback Ducks at great dinings. But a duck stuffed with truffles is a real luxury.

The domestic duck is always roasted and stuffed. Serve with Currant Jelly. 1 Cup A Stmple Bread Stuffing Farce de Pain 1 Pint_of Stale Bread, Wet and Squeezed Thoroughly.

1 Tablespoonful Each of Chopped Parsley and Thyme.

Wet the bread and squeeze. Add the minced herbs and season well with salt and pepper. Mix all thoroughly and fry in butter.

Onion Stuffing Farce auz Oignons 1 Pint_of Stale Bread, Wet and Squeezed Thoroughly.

1 Tablespoonful Each of Chopped Parsley and Thyme.

ner as for bread stuffing, using also one large onion, chopped very fine, and mixed thoroughly. This is a very nice dressing and cheap.

FORCEMEATS Quenelies Quenelles are small balls of fowl, fish meat or other chopped and hashed ingredients rolled nicely, and used as

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ee a garnish for poultry and fish, and fish or meat sauces, often adding both to the taste and beauty of a dish. Creole Forcemeat Quenelles @ la Créole Calf’s Liver. A Slice of Pork Fat. 1 Onion. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. Take calf's liver and pork fat, in the proportions of two-thirds liver and one-third fat. Grind both together very, very fine. Then mince an onion, and two sprigs each of thyme and parsley, and one bay leaf, and mix with the ground meat; add a half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Put one tablespoonful of hot butter in a frying pan and throw in the chopped meat. Let all blend well together without cooking for about two minutes, stirring all the time. Take the mixture off, and when it cools, form into little balls about the size and shape of a pecan. Roll these in flour, and then parboil in boiling water that has been well seasoned with pepper and salt. The balls then become Quenelles, and are used as a garnish for meats, etc. Place around the meat and pour the sauce over and serve hot. These are the genuine Quenelles.

Godiveau Forcemeat Quenelles Godireaur 1-4 Pound of Suet. 1-4 Pound of Lean Veal.

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1-2 Gill of Cold Milk.

1 Teaspoonsful Each of Minced Thyme and Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf.

2 Raw Eggs.

A Pinch of Grated Nutmeg.

Remove all the stringy tissue from the suet and pound in a mortar; hash the veal well and mix with the meat. Take a tablespoonful of flour and blend well with half a gill of cold milk and a tablespoonful of melted butter, and add to the suet and veal and blend well. Season highly with salt and pepper, and add a pinch of grated nutmeg. Then add the yolks of two raw eggs and the white of one egg, and, when well blended, strain all through a sieve, roll into balls and use as needed. In making this forcemeat, poultry or game may be used instead of veal.

Sausage Forcemeat Quenelles de Sauctsscs % Pound of Fresh Pork.

2 Square Inches of Lean Raw Ham. 1 Sprig of Parsley.

A Pinch of Grated Nutmeg.

Hash the pork; season well with salt and pepper, according to taste, adding a pinch of grated nutmeg and the chopped herbs and minced ham. Hash all very fine and make into small balls and use as desired. This is a nice garnish for meat when served with sauces.

Chicken Forcemecat Quenelics de Volaille 2 Raw Chicken Breasts.

The Yolks of 4 Eggs. Bread Soaked in 1. Teaspoonsful of Butter. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Thyme _ and arsley.

A Pinch of Grated Nutmeg.

Cut up the chicken and pound in a mortar; add an equal quantity of bread soaked in milk or water and well squeezed; add the butter and the yolks of the eggs; blend well and season highly with salt and pepper and the minced herbs, and add a pinch of grated nutmeg. Mix all together and roll into balls, and use as desired. Game Forcemeat Quenelles de Gibier The Breasts of Any Birds.

1 Teaspoonful of Butter.

1 Bay Leaf. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Sprig of Parsley.

In making a forcemeat of game, use judgment in regard to quantity. The partridge is the best bird for a game forcemeat. Take two breasts of partridges, cut into pieces, and pound in a mortar. Add the same quantity of bread that has been wet with milk or water and squeezed well. Add the butter and the yolks of four eggs, and season highly with salt and pepper and a pinch of grated nutmeg. Mix thoroughly and press all through a sieve. Two well-pounded truffles may be added. Use as desired.

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Fish Forcemeat ‘rab Forcemeat Quenclics de Potsson Quenelles des Crabes 1-2 Pound of Firm Fish. The Meat of 12 Crabs. 1 Onion. 1-4 Pint of Cream or Milk 1 Teaspoonful Each of Minched Thyme and Parsley.

Salt and White Pepper to Taste. A Pinch of Grated Nutmeg.

The left-over fish may be utilized for these Quenelles, or take a half pound of any firm fish—Sheepshead, Redfish or Red Snapper. Take out all the bones and remove the skin. Pound the fish well in a mortar, and add gradually the well-whipped whites of three eggs. Add carefully the cream or milk, and season to taste with salt and pepper, using white pepper. Add the grated nutmeg and minced herbs. Mix thoroughly, drain through a sieve, form into little balls, and use when needed.

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1-2 Teaspoonful of Salt.

1 Teas spoonful of White Pepper. A Dash of Cayenne. 1 Clove of Garlic. 12 Mushrooms, if desired.

Chop the onion very fine and fry in one tablespoonful of butter until a golden brown; then add a tablespoonful of flour and moisten with a quarter of a pint of water, or oyster juice, till the sauce begins to thicken well; season with the salt and pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Add the clove of garlic, finely minced, and the mushrooms, if desired. Cook for a half hour in the saucepan, and then take off the fire and add the yolks of the eggs. Stir again for a moment, cool, and roll into balls and use as CHAPTER XXI OR FISH, MEATS.

Hi POULTRY. GAME, £7C Des Sauces Pour les Potssons, les Viandes, la VYolaille, te Gidier, etc. The Creoles, like their French ancestors, hold that the three mother sauces, “Sauces Méres,” are: Brown Sauce, or “Sauce Espagnole”’; the White Sauce, or “Sauce Allemande;” and the “Glaze.” or “Glacé.” These are the foundation of all sauces, and upon their successful making depends the taste and piquancy of the numberless variety of fancy sauces that wive to even the most commonplace dishes a certain’ elegance. The Creoles are famous for their splendid sauces, and the perfect making of a good sauce is considered an indispensable part of culinary art and domestic economy. The first thing to learn in making sauces of every kind is how to make a good “Roux,” or the foundation mixture of flour and butter, or flour and lard. We have the Brown Roux and the White Roux. In making a Brown Roux, this unfailing rule must be the guide: Never under any consideration use burnt or over-browned flour.

Brown Roux Rouz Brun In making the roux, which is the foundation of a fancy sauce, melt the tablespoonful of butter slowly, and add gradually the flour, sprinkling it in and stirring constantly, till every portion is a nice, delicate brown. Never make it too brown, because it must continue browning as the other ingredients are added in the order given in every recipe in this book. It is a great mistake to pile all ingredients, one after another, pellmell, into a dish, in the course of preparation. The secret of good cooking lies in following implicitly the gradual introduction of the component parts in the order specified. In mixing a roux for cooking gravies or smothering meats, the proportions are one tablespoonful of lard and two of flour, butter always making a richer gravy than lard, and 1 Tablespoon-

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—_=_—S"S«—«—««_«_«—«—«—«—X—<K“€_-_({[{@]{}_]]{}]{"_"]"{"{""""_]_{_"]_"_"_"_""_ana~= a EEE sometimes being too rich for delicate stomachs. It is a great fad among many in our day to use nothing but butter in cooking. The Creoles hold that butter should be used in its proper place, and lard in its own. The lard is not only less expensive, but is far preferable to an inferior quality of butter, and in many cases preferable to the best butter, according to the dish in course of preparation. Properly made, the taste of lard can never be detected, and it is feared that butter is used by many to cover up, by its taste, the deficiencies resulting from an improperly made roux. If there is the slightest indication of burnt odor or overbrowning, throw the roux away and wash the utensil before proceeding to make another. Remember that even a slightly burnt sauce will spoil the most savory dish.

White Roux Roug Blano The White Roux is made exactly like the Brown Roux, only that the butter and flour are put simultaneously into the saucepan, and not allowed to brown. It is then moistened with a little broth or boiling water, and allowed to boil a few minutes till thick. The White Roux is the foundation of all white sauces, or those containing milk and cream. It is also used in nearly all purées. In the Sauce Veloutée it should be colored. GLAZE Glacé.

6 Pounds Rump of Beef. 5 Pounds of Bones.

1 Large Herb Bouquet. 1 Stalk of Celery. 3 Large Carrots.

Glacé is the foundation of all sauces for roasts, filets, etc. In other words, it is Liebig’s Beef Extract, which every housekeeper may make and keep on hand for gravies for meats. It is made as follows: Roast five pounds of the rump of the beef. Take five or six pounds of bones of beef and two calf’s feet. After roasting the beef well and brown, but rare, chop it in small pieces, and put in a pot with two gallons of water. Add to this the bones and calf’s feet, ali raw. Then add a large herb bouquet, and one stalk of celery and three large carrots. Let the whole come to a boil. As the scum rises, skim, and then season with salt and pepper to taste. Let all boil till reduced to one quart. Strain this, and it will make a jelly or glacé when cold. Do not add any flour or grease. The good Creole cook considers it little short of a crime to add flour to the gravies of roast or broiled beef. Use this for thickening Sauce Espagnole. Anchovy Sauce Sauce aug Beurre d’Anchois 1 Tablespoonful of Anchovy Butter. 11-2 Tablespoonfuls Flour. 11-2 Tablespoonfuls Butter. Make a White Sauce (see recipe). and add to this a tablespoonful of Anchovy butter, which comes prepared. Let it melt, season to taste in the sauce, and serve. An Anchovy Sauce may be either brown or white. Serve with boiled fish.

Apple Sauce Sauce Marmalade de Pommes 6 Large Apples. | 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 4 Cloves. 1 Stick Cinnamon. 1 Cup Water. Cut the apples into pieces, peel and let them boil till mashed into a jelly, stirring frequently, to prevent burning. Add the ground cloves and the stick of cinnamon, ground fine. Let them boil at least three-quarters of an hour, mashing as they become tender. Then take off the fire and press them through a coarse sieve. Add sugar to taste, add the butter, and set all back on the fire, and let it simmer gently for five minutes longer. Set to cool in a dish, and serve with Roast Pork or Roast Goose. The sauce must not scorch, or the taste will be spoiled. Béarnaise Sauce Sauce Béarnaise 6 Shallots. 1-2 Clove of Garlic. 1-2 Gill of French Vinegar. 1 Tablespoonful Each of Flour and Yolks of Four Eggs.

A Grated Nutmeg. Juice of 1 Lemon. Glacé, Chop the shallots and mince the garlic very fine. Blend the butter and flour, or take a good tablespoonful of Glacé (see recipe), and moisten with a good white consommé, till you

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have about a pint. Set on the stove, in a porcelain-lined saucepan. Add the pepper and salt and butter, and a quarter of a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg. Add half a gill of vinegar and the juice of a lemon, according to taste and acidity. When of the consistency approaching starch, take from the fire and add the yolks of four eggs, beaten well, and stirring all the time, till you have the consistency of a thick starch. Serve immediately, with broiled steak, broiled chops, broiled fish, etc.

Béchamel Sauce Bauce Béchamel 2 Ounces of Raw Ham. 2 Fresh Mush1 Tabelspoonful of Butter. 1 Pint of Veloutée Sauce. 2 Gills Rich 1 Stick of Celery, Cut Very Fine. 1-2 Carrot, Cut very Fine. 1-2 Onion, Chopped Very Fine. 1 Bunch Sweet Herbs. 2 Cloves. 4 All spice. Blade of Mace.

Put the butter in a saucepan, and as it melts add the chopped onion, and let it stew until very tender, but do not let it brown. Mince the ham and cut the vegetables very fine, and add first the ham, letting it brown a minute, and then the vegetables, herbs and spices. Let all simmer gently for ten minutes, without browning. Add the Veloutée Sauce (see recipe), stir in well, and bring all to a boil. Let it boil ten minutes, and be sure to stir constantly. Then add, by gentle degrees, the cream, which should not be heated, but which must be very rich and sweet (if not perfectly sweet it will spoil the sauce). When all this is blended, the sauce is of a velvet smoothness, and very delicious. Strain and set on the fire a minute longer to heat, and serve hot. It is served with fish, chicken and sweetbreads. Bordelaise Sauce Bauce 4 la Bordelatss 2 Shallots.

A Dash of Red Pepper.

Cut two shallots very fine; put in a ‘saucepan with three-quarters of a pint of good Sauce Espagnole (see recipe) and a dash of red pepper. Cook for twenty minutes and serve hot. In serving this sauce, the flavor may be increased by adding a dozen round slices of blanched Marrons. Bordelaise Sauce, Creole Style Bordelatse Sauce 2 ta Oréole 1 Onion or 2 Shallots.

Peel the onion or shallots and chop fine. Put in a saucepan with one tablespoonful of olive oil; let the onion sauté well, and pour the sauce over tenderloin filets or sirloin steaks when it is desired to serve these a la Bordelaise.

Brown Sauce Sauce Espagnole 1 Pound of Neck or Brisket of Veal. Bones of Beef.

1 Gallon of Water. 2 Tablespoonfuls of rd.

% Can Mushrooms or % Can Truffles, 2 Carrots. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. ‘2 Cloves Garlic. 1 Herb Bouquet. Clean a quantity of bones,. put them in a gallon of boiling water, and make a strong consommé, seasoning well with salt and pepper. Take a plece of the brisket or neck of the beef, and roast rare, so that the blood spurts out when pricked with a@ needle. After roasting cut it in pieces of about one inch square. Take two tablespoonfuls of lard and three of flour, and brown slightly, stirring all the time. After browning, add the water of the consommé, which has been reduced to about half a gallon, pouring it in slowly and stirring constantly. Then add all the pieces of the roast beef which you have cut. Add three carrots, two cloves of garlic, one onion, an herb bouquet (tied together of thyme, parsley and bay leaf), and let the whole boil well two hours, stirring every five minutes until reduced to the consistency of starch. Then strain well through a strainer or sieve, season to taste, and set back on the stove to cook a few minutes longer. Taste, and if sufficiently seasoned, take it off and allow it to get cool. This sauce is then used as a foundation sauce, and will keep for at least one month in the climate of New Orleans, if put in a cool place in winter or the ice box in summer. The Brown Sauce, or Sauce Espagnole, is made by using some of this at a time, and adding to a half pint of foundation sauce one tablespoonful of broth. Set it to boil again, and add a half can of mushrooms or truffles, as desired. It is used for all meats, fish or fowl served hot.

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If one does not desire to keep it, and it is a matter of economy to do so, it can be made by reducing the proportions for the dish to be prepared, simply browning one tablespoonful of butter and two of flour, adding at the right time a pint of boiling broth.

Brown Butter Sauce Sauce auz Beurre Notr 2 Tablespoonfuls of Cut Parsley (not chopped.) 3 Tablespoonfuls Lemon Juice or Melt the butter in a saucepan, and when it begins to smoke it is browning. Then add two tablespoonfuls of cut parsley, and let it brown half a minute longer. Then add three level tablespoonfuls of lemon juice or Tarragon Vinegar, let it all simmer two minutes longer, and serve with Stingaree or Rai aux Beurfe Noir (see recipe), calf’s brains or crawfish Bread Sauce Bauce de Pain -2 Ounces of Fresh Bread Crumbs. a baby Cup of Cold Water. 1-2 Ounce of Butter.

1 Cup _of Cream or Milk.

6 Whole Peppers.

Crumble the bread and place in a saucepan with the water; add the butter, salt and peppers. (ook for five minutes and add the milk. Cook five minutes longer, remove the peppers and serve hot.

Caper Sauce Sauce aur Capres Make a White Sauce, as above, and add a half cup of finely-cut French capers before serving. This sauce is served with boiled mutton. Cauliflower Sauce Sauce aur Choufleurs For this sauce, as a foundation, first make the Cream Sauce (see recipe), and add to it the flowerets of the cauliflower, which you will have previously boiled till tender, and cut very fine. Serve with boiled fish, veal sauté boiled cauliflower, etc. Chambord Sauce Sauce a la Chambord 1 Large Onion Minced. 1 Sprig of Thyme. 1 Bay Leaf. 3 Large Tomatoes. 1 Truffle, if Desired.

6 Thinly Sliced Mushrooms. 1 Pint Oyster Water.

2 Sprigs of Parsley. 2 Cloves, Mashed. 4 Allspice, Ground.

Brown the onion in the butter, but do not let it burn. Add three large tomatoes, chopped fine, with their juice and the finely minced herbs, the thinly sliced truffles and mushrooms. Let these brown well for about ten minutes. Then add the pint of oyster water, and season to taste. Add, if you have them, three or four crawfish, chopped fine, and one dozen oysters. Let all boil twenty minutes longer, and season to taste. Serve with Baked Red Snapper and other baked fish.

Chili Sauce Sauce au Chilé 6 Tomatoes. 4Green Peppers. 1% Cups of Vinegar.

Cayenne and Chili Pepper to Taste. Boil the vinegar and add the chopped tomatoes and green peppers and the minced onion, adding a tablespoonful of sugar. Let all boil one hour. Season to taste. strain, and serve with any fish or meats. Chestaut Sauce Bauce aue Marrons 1 Pint of Large Roasted Chestnuts. 1 Pint of Boiling Stock.

1 Tablespoonful Flour.

Roast the chestnuts, and peel and mash them very fine. Make a Brown Roux with the flour and butter, and add the boiling stock. Let it boil for about five minutes, and add the mashed chestnuts, stirring constantly, and seasoning to taste. Let it boil for two minutes, take off and serve hot, with Broiled Dindonneaux (turkey chicks). This is a great Creole dish, and is considered a delicate one. The sauce may also be served with Roast Turkey.

1 Tablespoonful Celery Sauce Sauce au Céleri Mince the celery well; put it in a saucepan and cover with bolling

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- utes, until tender.

Cream Sauce.

Let it boil about thirty minThen make a Cream Sauce Bauce @ la Oréme 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 1 Tablespoonful our.

2 Gills of Fresh Milk or Cream. Melt the butter in the saucepan, and add the flour gradually, letting it blend without browning in the least. Add the boiling milk or cream and stir without ceasing. Add salt and white pepper to taste, and serve immediately with boiled fish, etc. Cranberry Sauce Sauce aua Atrelles Wash the cranberries in cold water, and pick well, rejecting all those that float on top or are in any manner overripe and spoiled. Put them in a porcelain lined saucepan, with one pint of water, and let them boil over a moderate fire, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon, and mashing the fruit as much as possible. When the berries have cooked about twenty minutes, remove the saucepan from the fire, and add the sugar, stirring in sufficient to sweeten nicely. Let them cook at least ten or fifteen minutes longer, after adding the sugar, and put into un earthen bowl, and let the sauce cool. Never strain the sauce. Many do, but the Creoles have found out that cranberry jelly ig a very poor and insipid sauce, compared with that of the whole fruit, when formed into a sauce in an earthen mold. Liquid cranberry is a very poor apology for the dainty crimson mold of the native fruit. Let them stand at least overnight, or twenty-four hours, in a cool place, before serving. Serve Cranberry Sauce with Roast Turkey.

Crapaudine Sauce Bauce @ la Orapaudine 1 Pint of Sauce Piquante. 8 Chopped Mushrooms.

1 Teaspoonful of Dry Mustard. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Tarragon Vinegar. Put a half pint of very light Piquante Sauce on the fire, add the mushrooms, finely chopped, and a teaspoonful of dry mustard, which has been well diluted in two tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar. Let the sauce boil for five minutes, and Creole Sauce Sauce @ la Créole 2 Tomatoes. 6 Shallots.

1 Chopped Sweet Pepper.

Make a Tomato Sauce quite brown. (See recipe.) Add the chopped shallots and sweet pepper, and, when these are browned, season highly. Serve with meats.

Cucumber Sauce Sauce que Concombres 1 Nice, Tender Cucumber.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Prepared Mustard. The Yolks of One Egg. Seasoning Peel and grate the cucumber, and add the mustard, mixing thoroughly. Add the juice of one lemon and the yolk of one egg, beaten thoroughly. This is a delicious salad dressing. Currant Jelly Sauce Bauce a@ la Gelée de Groseilles 1-2 Tumbler of Currant Jelly. 4 Tablespoonfulg of Butter. 2 Gills of ater.

Melt the butter, and add the jelly, blending well, and then add the water. Add a little salt and sugar to taste. This sauce is served with Venison and other game.

Drawn Butter Sauce Sauce auz Beurre 1 Tablespoonful Chopped Parsley. uice of 1 Lemon.

This sauce is made simply by melting butter and adding a little chopped ‘parsley. Add the juice of a lemon, if desired. It is used as a garnish for broiled meat, fish, chicken, etc. Half-Glaze Demi-Glacée 11-2 Glasses of Mushroom Liquor, 1 Herb Bouquet. 1 Teaspoonful of To one pint of Sauce Espagnole (see recipe) add a glass of mushroom liquor, an herb bouquet and a teaspoonful of pepper. Carefully remove all fat and set on the fire and cook for thirty minutes. Strain and use when needed.

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Devil’s Sauce Sauce a la Diable 1 Onion. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 1 Pickle a Finger Long. 1 Tablespoonful of Mustard.

2 Gills of Consommé. Salt and Cayenne. Juice of a Lemon, Brown the onion in butter, and add the two cloves of garlic, minced very fine. When brown, add one pickle, minced very fine, and add a teaspoonful of prepared mustard. Then add two gills of consommé and the juice of a lemon, and allow it to cook slowly. Season with salt and hot pepper (piment fort), and serve with shell fish, chicken, sweetbreads, etc. This is a hot sauce.

Egg Sauce Sauce auw Ocufe 2 Chopped Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1 Bay Leaf, Minced Fine. inion. 6 Peppers.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.

1 Pint of Veal or Chicken Broth. Chop the onions and put in the saucepan with the butter and bay leaf. Stir in the flour to thicken and moisten with the broth. Mix well, and add the nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Beat the yolks of the eggs separately with the juice of half a lemon. Pour gradually into the sauce, but do not let it boil after they are added.

sieve, and, when ready to serve, sprinkle with two chopped hard boiled eggs and a teaspoonful of minced parsley.

Hard-Egg Sauce Sauce aug Ocufs Dure Make a White Sauce, as above, and add two or three hard boiled eggs, chopped, but not too fine, and a little finely minced parsley’ as a garnish. This sauce is served with boiled fish or boiled chicken or other fowl. Genoese Sauce Sauce & la Genoise Salt, Pepper, Nutmeg, and Allspice to Melt a tablespoonful of butter, stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour, and Press through a mix well till smooth. To this add about half a pint of water, and season with pepper and salt and a little nutmeg and allspice. Let the sauce simmer and reduce to about one-half. Add parsley as a garnish and serve with boiled fish or boiled meat. Giblet Sauce Sauce d’Abattis The Turkey Giblets. 1 Cup of Water. Put the, giblets or simply the gizzard into a saucepan and cover well with water. Let this simmer as long as the turkey roasts, then cut them fine and take the turkey out of the pan on which it has been roasted. Add the giblets and stir well, and then add a cup of the water in which the giblets have been boiled. Season to the taste and serve in a sauce dish, Pouring over the dressing when serving the turkey..

Hollandaise Sauce Sauce 2 la Hollandaise The Juice of Halt a Lemon. Yolk of 1 ss.

Salt and Pepper to Eaate.

Sauce & la Hollandaise is nothing more than a Drawn Butter Sauce, to which the juice of a lemon and the yolk of an egg have been added. Melt tho butter; add the juice of half a lemon; mix well and take off the stove and add the yolk of one egg, well beaten.’ Add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, beating steadily. This sauce is very light, and as soon as removed from the fire is served hot with the fish.

Horseradish Sauce Sauce: au Ratfort 1 Cup of Cream. Grated Horseradish.

1-2 Pint of Consommé or Broth. Grate the horseradish in sufficient quantity for use, and place it in a ‘saucepan with the boiling stock. Let it boil about ten minutes, or less, until tender. Season to taste. In the meantime rub the eggs in a bowl with the cream, beating and mixing thoroughly. Add these to the horseradish, stirring constantly, but do not let the

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ne} sauce boil, or the horseradish will curdle. Serve with roast meats or with baked fish.

Hunter’s Sauce Sauce @ la Ohasecur 3 Tomatoes. 2 Onions. 6 Mushrooms. 1 Pint of Consommé, Put the flour and butter into a saucepan and blend well; then moisten with one pint of consommé or water; add the chopped tomatoes, onions and mushrooms and season with a pinch of salt and pepper; add an herb bouquet and let it boil for an hour; before serving add the juice of a lemon or six drops of vinegar. If you have fresh game two tablespoonfuls of blood may be added, but do not let it boil after this.

Italian Sauce Sauce @ V’Italienne 8 Shallots, Greens and White. 1-2 of a Lemon's Juice. 1-2 Can MushConsommé. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Cayenne to Taste.

A Sauce a l'Italienne may be either brown or white. If mushrooms are used, make a white sauce—that is, let the butter and flour blend without browning. Add a half cup of 'consommé and a half can of chopped mushrooms, the white of the shallot (chopped very fine), and the juice of half a lemon. If a brown sauce, add the shallots to the butter and flour, which you will have browned, using the chopped white and green of the shallots. Then add a half pint of consommé, and let it simmer for about an hour, and add the juice of a lemon The white sauce is used for fish, the brown for meats. Always season Financier Sauce Bauce @ la Financiére 6 Stoned Olives. 12 Mushrooms. Melt the butter, then remove from the fire and add the flour. Blend with @ wooden spoon till smooth. Moisten with one pint of consommé till it reaches the consistency of cream. Then add the chopped mushrooms, stoned olives, pepper, salt and Cayenne. Serve hot.

Jolie Fille Sauce Sauce @ la Belle Oréole The Yolks of 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1-2 Cups Bread Crumbs.

1 Tablespoonful Butter. % Cup of Put the butter into the saucepan, and add the flour, letting it blend well, without burning or browning, for this is a white sauce. When it becomes a delicate yellow add the bread crumbs, stir for one minute, and add the half cup of consommé or broth. Stir well, and add a half cup of cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Add. the chopped parsley as a garnish, and a little onion juice. Take off the fire and add the well chopped yolks of two eggs, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Serve with boiled fish or boiled meats of any kind.

Lyonnaise Sauce Sauce @ la Lyonnaise 1 Dozen Tomatoes. Two or Three % Spoon of Butter. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf. Minced Fine.

Make a good Tomato Sauce (see recipe), and add to this the well minced onions browned in butter. Stir well, add a little lemon juice, and serve with any meats, Maitre d’Hotel Sauce Bauce @ la Mattre d’Hétet 1 Pint of Clear Water.

Put the butter and the flour in the saucepan and let them blend without burning. Mix well over a slow fire, and add one pint of consommé. Add the juice of half a lemon and the chopped parsley, and let all boil about fifteen minutes, ‘When it reaches this point, take it off the stove, add the yolk of one egg, well beaten; mix well, stirring round, and serve with boiled fish, etc.

Never add egg while the sauce is on the fire, as it will curdle immediately.

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TS Mayonnaise Sauce Sauce Mayonnaise Yolk of 1 Egg._ Sweet Oil. Lemon. Vinegar. Pepper and Salt.

Take the yolk of one fresh egg. raw, and put in a bowl. The egg and the oil must be cold, and in summer it is well to keep the soup plate in which you make the dressing on cracked ice in a pan, so that the oil will not run. Add, drop by drop sweet oil from the bottle. When you have dropped about a spoonful, being careful to work it into the yolk of the egg, drop by drop, blending all the time, cut a lemon and squeeze a little into the mixture. It will at once begin to harden as you stir it in. Continue stirring till the egg grows hard, and then steadily, drop by drop, use more oil, working it all the time with your fork into the egg. Have another spoon, begin to drop in the lemon juice, working it the same way again, till it hardens the egg. Then begin again with the oil and work again, and again drop the lemon till you have squeezed out half a lemon and used two gills of oil, finishing with the oil. When the egg begins to curdle, add a little salt, but do not add this salt till the mayonnaise is complete. Serve very cold, with salads, etc.

Mushroom Sauce Sauce aux Champignons.

% Pint of Consommé, or Bolling Lemon Juice. 1 Can of Mushrooms. ful Flour. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Make a Brown Roux, melting the butter in the saucepan, and adding the flour, and stirring till well browned. Then stir in the boiling stock, or water, if you have not the stock; add the mushrooms, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the juice of half a lemon and let it cook for about fifteen minutes longer. This is a fine sauce for Roast Filet of Beef. Pour the sauce over the filet, and Mint Sauce Sauce Menthe 1 Good Handful of Mint, Chopped Very ne.

1 Tablespoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. 1 Teaspoonful of Sugar.

A Pint of White Beef Stock. Chop one good handful of fresh mint and put it in a bowl; add a teaspoonful of Tarragon Vinegar and one teaspoonful of sugar. To this add one pint of good white beef stock. Mix all together and place in a bain-marte or hot water bath—that is, stand in a@ saucepan of hot water on the fire and let it warm without boiling. If the mint boils, it will be very bitter. Serve with roast lamb.

Normandy Sauce Sauce & la Normande 1 Pint of Sauce Veloutée.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Mushroom Liquor. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Fish Stock. The Juice of Half a Lemon. Make a pint of Sauce Veloutée (see recipe), and add the mushroom liquor. Reduce for about ten minutes and add two tablespoonfuls of Fish Stock or Oyster Juice; if not at hand add hot water. Let it all boil again, and then add the yolks of two eggs and the juice of a lemon. Strain through a fine sieve, and add a teaspoonful ‘of fresh butter and serve with fish. The sauce should be of the consistency of cream.

Onion Sauce Sauce Soubdise Boil the onions until quite tender, adding salt and pepper. When soft mash well and pass through a sieve. Take one spoon of butter and one of flour and melt, blending together without burning or allowing to brown. In this cream dissolve the purée of onions, boiling gently for ten minutes and stirring well. Add the juice of a lemon, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and serve with cutlets of lamb, fried sweetbreads, etc.

Oyster Sauce Sauce aux Huttres 2 Dozen Oysters. The Oyster Water. Boil the oysters in their own water. Add a nice herb bouquet while boiling. Take a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour and put into a saucepan, and mix well without browning; now dilute with the juice of the oysters, sufficient to make one pint; season to taste. Let it boil for ten or

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fifteen minutes, and, when it reaches a thick consistency, serve with freshly added oysters, taking the old ones out, because oysters that have boiled more than three minutes are unfit for eating, being hard and indigestible; or the sauce may be served without the oysters. This is a sauce for boiled fish, etc.

Parsley Cream Sauce Sauce @ la Créme de Perstl A Tabilespoonful and a Half of Butter. * A Tablespoonful and a Half of Flour. Half a Cup of Water or hite Broth. To the recipe for White Sauce add one tablespoonful and a half of finely minced parsley. You may also add a tablespoonful of cream. This is nice with boiled fish or boiled chicken. Pepper Sauce Sauce Potvrade.

1 Carrot, Minced Fine.

1 Onion, Minced Fine.

¥% Pint of Consommé. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Grated Lemon. 1 Small Piece of Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. Put the butter in the saucepan, and, as it melts, add the flour. Let it brown slowly, and then add one pint of Consommé., Let it boil, and add the minced herbs and vegetables and the zest or thin outer skin of a grated lemon. (The zest is the skin of a lemon, grated off without touching the inner white skin or pulp.) Let all boil slowly for an hour and a half. Season with salt and black pepper (hot) and a dash of Cayenne. Let it boil for ten minutes longer, take off the stove and strain, and serve with any game.

Pepper Sauce for Venison Sauce Poivrade pour le Chevreutl 1_Carrot, Minced Fine.

1 Onion, Minced Fine.

% Pint of Consommé. I Bay Leaf. % Grated Lemon. 1 Small Piece of Salt and Black Pepper ta Taste. This sauce is made in exactly the same manner as Sauce Poivrude (see “Juice of an Onion.

recipe) with this difference, that when it is to be served with venison a half glass of Currant Jelly is added, and the sauce allowed to boil ten minutes longer.

Pickle Sauce Sauce aue Cornichons A Tablespoonful and a Half of Butter. A Tablespoonful and a Half of Flour. Half a Cup of Water or White Broth. To the recipe for White Sauce (see recipe) add chopped gherkins, or any other vinegar pickles, using about two or three. Add, just before serving. Serve with fish.

Piquant Sauce Sauce Piguante 2 Pickles, 2 Inches in Length. 1 Teaspoonful of Strong French Vinegar.

Cayenne or Hot Pepper.

Chop two onions very fine. Smother in a tablespoonful of butter. When well cooked, without burning, add one tablespoonful of consommé or water. Add two cloves of garlic, minced very fine, and the herbs minced very fine. Season to taste with hot pepper. Cut two pickles about two inches in length into thin slices about a quarter of an inch thick. Add these to the sauce, with a teaspoonful of strong vinegar, and let the whole boil about five ‘minutes. Serve with boiled beef, boiled beef tongue, boiled pork tongue, or any boiled meats.

Poulette Sauce Sauce @ la Poulette % Pint of Consommé or Water. Salt and Pepper to The Juice of Half a Lemon. Melt the butter and flour, blending well without browning. Add a half pint of water, or consommé, the juice of one onion, and let it simmer twenty minutes. Season to taste. Take from the fire, add the yolks of two well beaten eggs and the juice of a lemon, and serve immediately.

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Ravigote Sauce (Cold) Sauce Ravigote 12 Shallots. 2 Cloves of Garlic, 1 Pickle. 1 Tablespoonful of Mustard. The Yolk of an Egg.

4 Sprigs of Chopped Parsley. 1 Sprig ch of Thyme and Bay Leaf. Chop the shallots, green and white, all very fine, mince the two cloves of garlic very fine, and put these in a big bowl, adding one pickle about three inches long, chopped very fine, but drained first of all water; then add a good bunch of parsley, chopped very fine. Mix all this together very well, and add one tablespoonful of mustard. Mix again. Add a good tablespoonful of vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Beat the yolk of an egg and mix well in the sauce. This sauce is to be served cold, with cold meats, turkey or fowl.

Hot Ravigote Sauce Bauce Ravigote 12 Shallots. 1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Chopped Parsley. Chop the parsley very fine. Have ready a “Sauce Veloutée.” (See recipe.) Add the other ingredients. Mix well. Place in a saucepan and set in boiling water and let it heat,. serving it hot with fish, white meats of chicken, etc.

Sauce Rémoulade Rémoulade (Cold).

3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1 Raw Yolk of 1 Tablespoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. % Clove of Garlic, Minced Very Fine. % Teaspoonful of Prepared Mustard. A Rémoulade is a cold sauce, and is always served with cold meats. Boil the eggs till hard. Remove the shells and set aside the white, which you must later crumble fine for a garnish. Put the yolks into a bowl, mash very fine, till perfectly smooth, add the mustard and mix well, and the seasonings of vinegar and salt and Cayenne to taste. Then add the olive oil, drop by drop, working in the egg all the time, and then add the yolk of the raw cgg, and work in thoroughly, till light. Then add the juice of half a lemon. Mix well, increasing the quantities of oil or vinegar, according to taste, very slightly. If the sauce is not thoroughly mixed, it will curdle. It is now ready to be served with cold meats, fish or salads. Green Rémoulade Rémoulade Verte 3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1 Raw Yolk of Sse.

1 Tablespoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. % Clove of Garlic, Minced Very Fine. % Teaspoonful Prepared Mustard. A Green Rémoulade is made in exactly the same manner as the above, only it is colored with the juice of spinach or parsley, using about two tablespoonfuls of either.

Robert Sauce Sauce Robert 2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Pickles, 2 Inches in Length. 1 Teaspoonful of Strong French Vinegar.

Cayenne or Hot Pepper.

Make a Sauce Piquante (see recipe). and add a teaspoonful more of prepared mustard, and two more of minced parsley, the juice of a lemon, and let it boil up once, and serve with steak, pork chops, liver sauté, turkey or goose.

Spanish Sauce Sauce Espagnole % Pound of Brisket or Veal. Bones of Beef.

1 Quart of Water. 1 Tablespoontul of rd,.

% Can Mushrooms, or Can Truffles. 1 Carrot, 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. Place a number of clean beef bones in a quart of boiling water, and make a strong consommé, seasoning well with salt and pepper. “Roast a piece of the brisket or neck of the beef till very rare, so that the blood spurts out when pricked with a needle. After cooking cut it in pieces of about one inch square. Take two _ tablespoonfuls of lard and three of flour, and brown slightly, stirring all the time. After browning add the water of the consommé, which has been reduced to about half a pint, pouring

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it in slowly and stirring constantly. Then add all the cut pieces of the roast beef. Then put in three carrots, two cloves of garlic, one onion, an herb bouquet of thyme, parsley and bay leaf, tied together, and let the whole boil well two hours, stirring every few minutes, until reduced to the consistency of starch. Then strain well through a strainer or sieve, season to taste, and set back on the stove to cook a few minutes longer. Add a half pint of broth. Set it to boil again, and add a half can of mushrooms or truffies, as desired. It is used for all meats, fish and fowl, served hot.

Tartare Sauce Sauce @ la Tartare A Mayonnaise Sauce. 6 Shallots. 1 Pickle.

A Handful of Parsley, Minced Fine. 1 Teaspoonful Mustard.

Prepare the Mayonnaise as directed above. Put in a bowl a half dozen shallots, greens and all, and chop fine; add a handful of parsley, chopped fine; and the half-minced clove, and one whole pickle, well chopped. Mix all this together, place it in a cloth and strain out the juice by pressing. Add this juice to the Mayonnaise, add one teaspoonful of mustard, and salt, Cayenne and black pepper to taste. This is served with filet of trout, etc. Tomato Sauce “Sauce auz Tomates 1 Dozen Tomatoes.

% Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Cloves of 1 Sprig Each of Thyme and Bay Leaf, Minced Fine, Take one dozen large tomatoes, or one can, and put in a pot to boil, with one-half tablespoonful of butter. Add salt and pepper to taste, and one pint of water. Let it cook for about ten minutes, add the minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf, and two cloves of garlic, minced fine. When well boiled, mash through a sieve, reducing toa pulp. Put a tablespoon of flour in @ saucepan, and add a half spoon of flour. When it blends and browns nicely add the tomato juice, season highly to taste, and, when ready to serve, add chopped parsley as a garnish. Serve with meat, fish or game. Velvet Sauce Bauce Veloutée.

3 Ounces Butter, ord jpeblespoontul and a Half.

1 Tablespoonful and a Half of Flour. 2 Gills of Water.

The Well-Beaten Yolks of 2 Eggs. Juice of a Lemon.

Blend the flour and butter as in White Sauce, only letting it become slightly yellow. Add by degrees the boiling water and season to taste. Add the juice of half a lemon, and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Let it simmer for about ten minutes, and take from the fire, and add the well beaten yolks of two eggs. Serve immediately with any boiled fish or Vinaigrette Sauce Sauce Vinaigrette 12 Shallots. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 5 Tablespoonfuls of Oil.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Chopped Parsley. Mix all together as in a Sauce Ravigote, cold (see recipe), and add the oil and vinegar; serve cold, with cold boiled meat, cold boiled fish,: etc. White Sauce Bauce Blanche A Tablespoonful and a Half of Butter. A Tablespoonful and a Half of Flour. Half a Cup of Water or White Broth. Blend the flour and butter in the saucepan without browning in the least. Add by degrees the boiling water or White Consommé of veal or chicken, stirring until smooth, and boiling three minutes. Salt and pepper to taste. Add the juice of half a lemon. If the sauce is to have other ingredients, this is the foundation for them and it must be of the consisteney of thick starch to begin with.

German Sauce Sauce Allemande 4 Pounds of Raw Veal.

The Bones of a Chicken.

1 Gallon of Water. 1 Carrot. 1 Turnip. Celery Tops.

2 Spoonfuls of Lard.

1 Herb Bouquet of Thyme, Parsley, Bay at.

1 Stalk of Celery. 2 Long Carrots. Take the veal and the bones of the chicken and put into a pot with a

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yvallon of water. Add the herb bouquet, tied together, and one chopped carrot, one turnip, chopped, celery tops, and other ingredients of a good “pot-au-feu.” Let all boil slowly for three hours until it is reduced onehalf. Then salt and pepper to taste. This will give a white broth or consommé blanc. When boiled to this point take off the fire and strain the broth into a jar. Now put two tablespoonfuls of butter and three of flour, into a saucepan together, letting the butter and flour blend nicely, without browning. Add all the broth to this, stirring slowly while on the fire. Add a good, strong bouquet of herbs, thyme, parsley and bay leaf, all tied together whole. Add two large carrots, letting all boil till reduced to one-half again. After this process, season to taste, and when it has reached the consistency of starch take it from the fire, strain, and let it get cool. This sauce is fine for all white meats and fish. When used for fish take one tablespoonful and moisten with a little fish broth. Set on the fire to heat, and add a pint of consommé or broth. This sauce Allemande will keep at least one month in our climate, in the ice box. If one prefers to make it as needed, follow the proportions of one tablespoonful of butter, two of flour, and one pint of boiling broth.

CHAPTER XXII 2p SALADS Des Salads The old Spanish proverb that “to make a perfect salad there should be a miser for vinegar, a spendthrift for ofl, a wise man for salt and a madcap to stir all these ingredients, and mix them well together,” still holds as the unfailing Creole rule in making a good salad. The reason is clear. For the dressing of the salad should be saturated with the oil, before the salt, pepper and vinegar are added. By dissolving the salt in the vinegar, instead of in the oil, it becomes more thoroughly distributed throughout the The simple French Dressing for salads is always the best for daily use, and also for formal dinners. It is not only lighter, as compared to the Mayonnaise Dressing, and, therefore, far more acceptable at dinners where the courses are many, but the Creoles hold, like the French, that it is the only dressing for salads that are not intended for luncheons or teas, such as chicken, shrimp or crab salads. A Mayonnaise Dressing for salad should never be used at the family dinner or formal dinings, Plain French Dressing for Salads ‘ssaisonnement Francais 3 Tablespoonfuls of the Best Olive Oil. 1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar, According to Taste. 4% Teaspoonful of Salt. \% Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. First put the oll into a small bowl. Then add gradually the salt and pepper until all are thoroughly mixed. Then add gradually the vinegar, stirring continually for about a minute. It is now ready to pour over the salad, and remember that it must be mixed thoroughly. The proportion of vinegar varies according the salad to be dressed. Lettuce salad requires but little; tomato salad, corn salad or Doucette require more. Serve this dressing with lettuce, tomato, onion, cucumber and other vegetables and green salads, French Dressing—No. 2.

Assaisonnement Francais 3 Tablespoonfuls of Oil.

1 Tablespoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. A _Saltspoon Each of Black Pepper and Salt. Chopped Onion and Parsley. The Juice of Half an Onion. Mix these in the order given above, adding last the onion juice and pars-

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——————————————— es) ley, well chopped. This is a more elaborate French dressing. Mustard Dressing.

Assaisonnement @ la Moutarde 1 Teaspoonful of Prepared Mustard. The Yolk of 1 Egg, if Desired. Blend the mustard and the oil, adding the latter, drop by drop at first, and then proceeding more confidently. Whenever the dressing appears to be curdling, add a few drops of vinegar, and work rapidly till it becomes smooth again. Add the salt and pepper, and when the dressing is finished, use it for celery salad, fish, tomatoes, potatoes, etc. If the oil appears to separate from the other ingredients, it can always be rubbed into them smoothly again by adding a few drops of vinegar. In all these salads the question of oil and its measurements can only be approximated. Good judgment must always be the final test. Creole French Dressing.

Assatsonnement @ la Créole 3 Tablespoonfuls of the Best Olive Oil. 1 Teaspoonful Mustard.

The Yolk of a Hard-Boiled Egg. Salt and Pepper to Taate.

Blend the oil and salt and pepper in the manner above indicated, and then add these to the mustard, drop by drop, alternating with the vinegar. When well blended add the wellmashed yolk of a hard-boiled egg. Stir well, and serve with lettuce, celery or potato salad.

Mayonnaise Dressing.

Sauce Mayonnaise Yolk of 1 Egg.

Sweet Oil. Lemon. Vinegar. Pepper and Salt.

Put the raw yolk of one fresh egg into a bowl. The egg and the oil must be cold, and in summer it is well to keep the soup plate in which you make the dressing on cracked ice in a pan, so that the oil will not run. Break the yolk and add, drop by drop, a little sweet oil from the bottle. When you have dropped about a@ spoonful, being careful to work it into the yolk of the egg, drop by drop, and blend all the time, squeeze a few drops of lemon juice into the mixture. It will at once begin to harden as you stir it in. Continue stirring till the egg grows hard, and then steadily, drop by drop, let the oil fall, working it all the time with your fork into the egg. Have another spoon, begin to drop in the lemon juice, working it the same way again till it hardens the egg. Then begin again with the oil and work again, and again drop the lemon till you have the juice of half a lemon and about two gills of oil, finishing with the oil. When the egg begins to curdle, add a little salt, but do not add this salt till the Mayonnaise is complete. Serve very cold, with salads, etc.

Mayonnaise is the standing sauce for chicken salad, shrimp salad, crab salad, etc. When making it for these large salads, use three yolks of eggs and other ingredients in proportion. Rémouladce Dressing.

Bauce Rémoulade 3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 1 Raw Yolk of Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. 1-2 Clove of Garlic, Minced Very Fine. 1-2 Teaspoonful of Prepared Mustard. A Rémoulade is a cold sauce, and is always served with cold meats. Boil the eggs till hard. Remove the shells and set aside the whites, which you must later crumble fine for a garnish. Put the yolks into a bowl, and mash very fine, till perfectly smooth. Add the mustard, and mix well, and the seasonings of vinegar and salt and Cayenne to taste. Then add the olive oil, drop by drop, working it into the egg steadily,* then add the yolk of the raw egg, and work in thoroughly, till light. Then add the juice of half a lemon. Mix well, increasing the quantity of oil or vinegar, according to taste, very slightly. If the sauce is not thoroughly mixed it will curdle. It is now ready to be served with cold meats, fish or salads, Vinegar Dressing.

Sauce Vinaigrette 12 Shallots. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 5 Tablespoonfuls of Oil.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Chopped Parsley. Mix all together, as in a Sauce Ravigote, cold (see recipe), and add the oil and vinegar; serve cold, with cold boiled meat, cold boiled fish, etc,

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SS —————— Anchovy Salad.

Salade d’Anchois 1 Box_of Anchovies.

Cut the anchovies into pieces of about an inch in length. Season nicely with a French Dressing, and serve. This is a delicious luncheon dish. Artichoke Salad.

Artichauts en Salade 1 Pint of Cold Boiled Jerusalem Artichokes.

1 Teaspoonful of Vinegar.

Boil the Artichokes. (See recipe.) When cold, peel them and cut into quarters. Add chopped parsley and the French dressing; mix, and serve very cold.

Tips of Asparagus Salad.

Pointes d’Aspergcs en Salade 1 Pint of Asparagus Tips.

Boil the Asparagus Tips. (See recipe.) When cold, place on a dish and garnish nicely. Serve very cold, with Bean Salad.

Salade d’Haricots 1 Pint of Cold Beans.

Vinaigrette Sauce, This is a nice way of utilizing cold left-over red or white beans. Serve with a Vinaigrette Sauce. (See recipe.) Beet Salad.

Salade de Betteraves 4 Large Red Beets. French Dressing. Boil the beets till done, and then peel and slice nicely. Set them to cool and pour over them a French Dressing or a plain dressing of vinegar, salt and pepper. This is a nice spring or winter salad in New Orleans, Cauliflower Salad.

Choufleur @ la Vinaigrette 1 Pint of Boiled Cauliflower. 1 Teaspoonful of Tarragon Vinegar. A French Dressing (plain). Boll the cauliflower as directed. (See recipe.) Then separate the flowerets; mix them with parsley, and cut the remainder very fine and mix also. Let it cool. Sreve with a French Dressing, after adding first an extra teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. Celery Salad.

Balade de Oélers 1 Pint of Crisp French Celery. 3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. French Dressing. Cut the celery into pieces of about @ quarter of an inch. Chop two hardboiled eggs, not too fine, and mix well with the chopped celery. Blend all with French Dressing and serve. This is a delicious salad.

Celery Mayonnaise.

Mayonnaise de Oélerit 1 Pint of Crisp White Celery. A Mayonnaise Sauce.

Chop the celery, or, rather, cut fine, as indicated in the above recipe. Mix the Mayonnaise with it. Garnish nicely with celery tips and serve. The mustard dressing is even nicer than the Mayonnaise for this salad. Chervil Salad.

Saladc de Cerfeuit, 1 Pint of Chervil.

Chervil is a delicious salad herb, much affected by French and Creole gourmets. It is served cut fine, in the same manner as Lettuce Salad, with a French Dressing.

Chicken Salad.

Mayonnaise de Volaille 1 Pint of Cold Boiled Chicken. 1-2 Pint of Mayonnaise Sauce. 1 Head of Crisp Fresh Lettuce. Cut the chicken into small dice. Chop half of the lettuce very fine, and season well with salt and pepper. Make a bed of the remainder of the lettuce leaves, and place first a layer of the chicken and then the lettuce, until you have used all. Spread the Mayonnaise Sauce over the top nicely, and garnish prettily with slices of cold hard-boiled eggs, sliced beets, celery tips, etc. For chicken and celery salad follow the recipe for Volaille en Salade, given under the heading of “Poultry.” (See recipe.) Leftover chicken may be utilized in either of these salads.

Crab Salad, Mayonnaise.

Mayonnaise de Orabes 1 Pint of Crab Meat (hard shell). Mayonnaise, Hard-Boiled Eggs. Garnishes. Boil and pick crabs sufficient to give a@ pint of meat. (See recipe for Boil-

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ing Crabs.) Season well with salt and pepper. Place in a dish, on a bed of crisp lettuce leaves, spreading over them the Mayonnaise Sauce, and garnish nicely with hard-boiled eggs, sliced beets and tips of celery. Crawfish Salad.

Mayonnaise d’Ecrevieses 3 Dozen Crawfish.

A Sauce & la Mayonnaise.

Boil the crawfish, pick the meat out of the shells, heads and tails, break it into pieces, and prepare in precisely the same manner as Shrimp Cress Salad.

Salade de Cresson Cress. Vinegar. Salt and Pepper. Prepare in exactly the same manner as lettuce, washing and bringing to the table firm and crisp. In this salad use for dressing only Tarragon vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Cucumber Salad.

Salade de Concombres 2 Fine Cucumbers.

Wash and slice two nice young cucumbers, and use a plain dressing of vinegar, salt and pepper.

Corn Salad.

Salade de Machea, ou Doucette. 1 Pint of Corn Salad.

This is an excellent salad, and is prepared and served with a French Dressing. Take one pint of fresh Doucette and pare off the outer stale leaves, if there are any; cut off the roots. Wash the Doucette well in two waters, drain in a napkin and place in the salad bowl. When ready to serve add a plain French Dressing, but not before. Mix well, so that every portion will be impregnated with the dressing. Serve very cold. A garnish of two hard-boiled eggs, sliced or cut in quarters, or of two medium-sized beets, may be added both for taste and effect. Dandelion Salad.

Salade de Dent-de-Lion 1 Pint of Fresh White Dandelion. Cut off the roots and green portion of the leaves; wash and steep in salt and water. When they become crisp, drain and press dry; rub the salad bowl with a clove of garlic and season the dandelions’ with French Dressing. This salad may also be served with two hard-boiled eggs cut in quarters or sliced and laid over; or with two medium-sized beets, sliced, and seasoned with a plain Endive Salad.

Salade de Chicorée, 1 Pint of Endive. French Dressing. 1 Teaspoonful of ghervil, Chopped Very née.

Prepare the endive in the same manner as the lettuce. When ready to serve, add the chervil and the French Dressing. If endive stands, like lettuce, it will wilt after being dressed. Serve immediately. Fish Salad.

Salade de Poisson a la Mayonnaise 1 Pint of Cold Boiled Fish. 1 Head of Lettuce. Mayonnaise Sauce. Use cold boiled left-over fish, picking nicely into bits of about an inch and a half square. Follow the same directions as in the above recipes, only do not mix lettuce and fish in layers. There is nothing nicer than @ fine fish salad:.

Green Pepper Salad.

Salade de Piments Douz 2 la Créole 4 Tomatoes. 2 Green Peppers, 1 Large French Dressing, Plain, Slice the tomatoes, onion and green peppers very thin, arrange them on a dish, putting a layer of tomatoes, with alternate layers of onion, green pepper and tomatoes mixed. Dress either before bringing to the table, or at the table, with French Dressing. This is a great Creole family salad, and a very healthful one.

Gre@ Peppers £panish Style. Piments Verte en Salade @ V’Espagnole 6 Green Peppers. 3 Tomatoes, Parboil the peppers so that they will peel easily, and scald the tomatoes. Peel all and remove the seeds of the peppers, Cut the peppers into one-inch pieces, slice the tomatoes, and serve with plain French Dressing as a salad,

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Lentil Salad.

Salade de Lentilics.

1 Pint of Lentils.

A Vinaigrette Sauce (see recipe). Lentils are prepared in the same manner as Bean Salad (see recipe), and served with Vinaigrette Sauce. They make a cheap, excellent and healthy salad.

Lettuce Salad.

Salade de Laitue.

3 Heads of Lettuce.

French Dressing. 2 Eggs.

Have fresh, crisp lettuce sufficient in quantity for the number to be served. Dip in cold water, examining each leaf, and pick over carefully and select the fresh, crisp leaves. Place all these in a salad bowl, and garnish nicely with sliced hard-boiled egg. Never dress the lettuce before bringing to the table. The vinegar causes the leaves to wilt utterly, and takes away the pleasure which is experienced from looking at a fresh, crisp dish, and also spoils a fine table garnish. Bring in the lettuce and have made at the table the sauce, a plain French Dressing or Creole Dressing as preferred.

Louisiana Salad.

Salade Loutsianaise 2 Lettuce Heads, 6 Pickled Cucumbers. 2 Dozen Pickled Onions. A Plain Use, in this fancy salad, lettuce, pickled cucumbers, pickled onions, cui in dice, and serve with a French Dressing.

Okra Salad.

Salade de Feri 4 Dozen Boiled Young Okra. Boll the okra as directed. (See recipe.) When cold, dress nicely with vinegar, salt and pepper, or, if preferred, the plain French Dressing, and serve very cold. This is.a most delightful salad, the okra being very cooling in our tropical climate. Spanish Salad.

Salade a VEspagnole 4 Sliced Tomatoes. 2 Dozen Pickled % Pint of Mayonnaise Dressing. This is a favorite southern salad, made of sliced tomatoes and pickled onions, prettily arranged around a small bed of Mayonnaise heaped in the center.

String Bean Salad.

Haricota Verts en Salade 1 Pint_of Cold Boiled String Beans. French Dressing (plain).

Only very young and tender beans should be used for this salad. Boil as directed under the heading “‘Vegetables,” and put the beans in a salad bowl and allow to cool well. Serve with a plain French Dressing, or, better still, a simple dressing of vinegar and a dash of Cayenne.

Tomato Salad.

BSalade de Tomates 4 Fresh..Fine Tomatoes.

Slice the tomatoes nicely and place on a salad dish. Never peel or scald tomatoes intended for salad. Serve nicely with a plain French Dressing or any of the above dressings. Tomatoes may also be served with Mayonnaise Dressing. In this case place them, whole and peeled, on a bed of crisp, fresh lettuce, if thus preferred, and serve one to each person, or cut them in halves. Tomatoes with Mayonnaise is a luncheon or a supper Iced Tomatocs.

Tomates Frappécs 6 Whole Tomatoes. 1 Pint Mayonnaise A Garnish of Chopped Ice.

Take the tomatoes whole. Lay on a bed of lettuce or cress, as indicated above. Garnish with chopped ice, and serve very cold with Mayonnaise Tomato, Green Pepper and Onion Salade @ la Créole 4 Tomatoes. 2 Green Peppers. 1 Large French Dressing (plain).

Slice the tomatoes, onions and green peppers very thin and arrange them on a dish, placing a layer of tomatoes, and alternate layers of onion, green pepper, and tomatoes mixed. Dress either before bringing to the table, or at the table, with French Dressing. This is a great family salad among the Creoles, and a healthful one.

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TRS The Creoles follow the old adage, that the taste of the onion must only lurk within the bowl when using it for salad. More than this renders the salad disagreeable and coarse. Watercress Salad.

Salade de Cresson 1 Pint_of Watercress.

Minced Potato, if desired. This salad is made of watercress simply, or watercress and minced potatoes, mixed in equal quantities, and served with a French Dressing. It is a most healthful, light and excellent salad, especially in summer. Vegetable Salad.

Balade @ la Jardiniére 1 Carrot. 3 Beets, % Cup of Green Peas. 1 Cup String. Beans.

Take fine strips of vegetables of different colors, cooked and cold, with green peas and string beans, and dress nicely with oil and vinegar and serve. Sardine Salad.

Balade de Sardincs 1 Box_of Sardines.

Cut the sardines into pieces of about half an inch in length. Season nicely with a French Dressing and serve. This is a delicious luncheon Potato Salad.

Salade de Pommes de Terre 3 Large Cold Boiled Potatoes, 6 Tablespoonsfuls of Olive Oil. 3 Tablespoonsfuls of Vinegar. 1 Large This is a nice way of utilizing cold left-over potatoes. But the freshly boiled potatoes always make the nicest salad: Pare and peel the potatoes, if freshly boiled, and let them cool. Prepare the salad dressing, following implicity the directions given for plain French Dressing, only here the quantities are larger in proportion. Add the vinegar, stirring constantly. A dash of mustard may be added, if desired. Mince the onion very fine, and cut the potatoes into dice or slices, and mix them carefully with the onion. Then add the dressing, turning the potatoes into it without breaking. Sprinkle all with parsley, nicely chopped, and serve cold. Russian Salad.

Salade a la Russe.

2 Carrots. 2 Parsnips.

1 Cup of Cold Minced Fowl. 3 Anchovies, 1 Dozen Olives. 3 Caviares. 1 Tablespoonful of Sauce A la Tartare. 1 Teaspoonful of Mustard.

This salad is made of cooked carrots, parsnips, beets, cold roast beef, cold ham, a truffle (if it can be afforded), all cut into fancy of diceshaped pieces. Use one ounce of each of the meats, or simply one cup of cold minced fowl, as it may not be convenient to have all these meats at hand in households. Add six boned anchovies, and one dozen olives and two caviares, and serve with Tartare Sauce, or with a French Salad Dressing, to which mustard has been added. This is a heavy salad.

Shrimp Salad.

Salade de Chevrettce, Mayonnaise 2 Pints of Cold Boiled Shrimp. 1 Head of Crisp Lettuce. Mayonnaise uce.

Take Lake Shrimp and River Shrimp combined, if you have them. Cut the larger Lake Shrimp into two. Chop some lettuce. Season well. Place first a layer of shrimp and then of lettuce, and spread over all a Mayonnaise Sauce. Garnish nicely with sliced hard-boiled eggs, sliced beets and celery and lettuce tips, and serve very cold.

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CHAPTER XXIII Des Ocufe A chapter on eggs would be superfluous in any cook book, were it not for the fact that there are women who cannot tell to a real certainty how long to boil an egg soft or hard, when the omelette is cooked to a nicety, and how to send to the table in all the perfection of good cooking that most delicate and palatable dish, “Scrambled Eggs.”

The Creoles have very wisely escheweq all innovations in cooking eggs that require more than five to eight minutes to cook to perfection. They cling to the old-fashioned softboiled egg, the hard-boiled egg, fried egg, scrambled and poached eggs. They have retained many.ancient French and Spanish methods of cooking eggs, but none of these, followed properly, according to the _ timehonored customs, calls for more than five or eight minutes at the most in cooking.

The first and most important point to be considered in preparing eggs for the table is to ascertain whether they are perfectly fresh. The fresher the egg the better. Never, under any circumstances, put a tainted egg in any dish, under the impression that other ingredients will hide the flavor. Never put such an egg in a cake. The presence of one egg that is not fresh will ruin an entire dish.

The Old Creole darkies, in common with many other people, have a way of finding out whether an egg is fresh by inclosing it in the hollow of the hand and looking through it with one eye, while shutting the other. They aver that if you can distinctly trace the yolk in one solid mass, and if the white around it looks clear, the egg is good. ‘A more simple and scientific way, and by far a surer one, is to drop the eggs into cold water. The fresh ones will sink immediately to the bottom, the doubtful ones wil] swim around a little before sinking, and the bad ones will float.

Eggs are among the most nutritious articles of food. They are especially rich in albumen, and their free use cannot be too highly recommended to delicate persons, to hard brain workers, and to families generally. Boiled Eggs.

: Oeufe @ la Coque Have ready a saucepan of boiling water. Use only fresh eggs. Put them in the boiling water without cracking the shells. If you desire soft-boiled eggs, or “Oeufs Mollets,” let the eggs boil from two minutes to two minutes and a half by the clock, keeping the exact time, minute by minute. The whites will then be set. If you desire the yolk to be set also in the softboiled egg, let the eggs boil three minutes, but not a second longer. For hard-boiled eggs, five minutes is sufficient. Bear in mind always that the water must be boiling hard before you put eggs into it, and that the exact time for boiling must be followed by the clock, or with a watch in hand. Poached Eggs.

Oceufe Pochés Have a frying pan filled with boiling water. Add salt. Some add also a tablespoonful of vinegar as this helps to keep the eggs whole. The eggs must be absolutely fresh. Crack the eggs into a saucer, one by one, and gently slip off into the water, without breaking the yolks. Break another and another, until you have four in the pan, allowing them all to stand apart. Let them boil thus in the water, till the white forms a thin veil over the yolks. Then the eggs are done. Take them up gently, neatly round off the ragged edges, sprinkle

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the tops with a little black pepper, place on buttered toast, and serve immediately.

Fried Eggs.

Ocufe Frits 2 Tablespoonfuls of Lard.

The lard must be very hot. Break the eggs neatly into a saucer, one by one, and slide them into the lard, without breaking the yolks. With the spoon take up a little of the hot lard and drop gently over the top of the egg, if you wish it to be quite done. Otherwise simply fry till the yolk is set. Slide out on a batter cake turner, and place in a dish. Sprinkle with salt and black pepper, and add, if you wish, a little parsley garnish, and serve very hot.

Ham and Eggs.

Ocufa au Jambon 6 Slices of Ham.

The ham should always.be soaked in hot water before frying. Cut slices of about half an inch in thickness, of sufficient size to set an egg upon them. Lay the ham in the hot frying pan, and let it fry until the fat becomes transparent. Then take the slices out and put them on a hot dish. Break the eggs, one by one, into a saucer, and slip them into the frying pan, and fry in the same lard in which you have fried the ham. When the yolks are quite set, take them out, and lay one egg on each slice of ham. Garnish nicely with parsley, Scrambled Eggs.

Oeufs Broutllés 6 Fresh Eggs._A Tablespoonful of Break the eggs into a saucer, one by one, and then transfer to a bowl. Have the frying pan very hot. Put into it the butter, and add immedi‘ately the eggs, and keep stirring around and around and across for about three or four minutes, judging by the consistency of the egg, which must be like a thick mush as you take it from the fire. Keep stirring a few seconds longer after you have taken the pan off the fire, and put the eggs into a hot dish, and garnish with parsley and serve immediately with buttered toast or broiled ham. The beauty of the scrambled egg ‘is that the whites and yolks are delicately blended. ‘ The practice of beating the yolks and whites thoroughly together, as for an omelette, before scrambling the eggs, is to be condemned as against the best ethics of Creole cookery. There is no comparison in the taste of the scrambled egg cooked according to the above method and ‘the eggs in which the yolks and whites have been previously beaten together.

Eggs Scrambled in Ham.

Ocufe Broutllés au Jambon 8 Tablespoonfuls of Finely Minced Boiled Ham.

Mince the ham very fine, and break the eggs, one by one, into a saucer, and add to the bowl in which you have minced the ham. Mix all together. Place a tablespoonful of butter in the frying pan, add the eggs and ham, stir briskly, and when it comes to the consistency of starch take off the fire, and serve hot on buttered toast.

In the same manner eggs may be scrambled with minced truffles, mushrooms, onions, celery or tomatoes. Eggs Scrambled With Preserves. Ocufs Brouillés aus Confitures 6 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Fruit Marmalade. Eggs may also be scrambled with marmalade of apricots or prunes, in which case they are called “Ocufs Brouillés aux Confitures.” Follow above recipe, using the marmalade instead of the ham.

Cheese and Eggs.

Ocufs Fondus au Fromage 4 Heaping Teaspoontuls of Gruyére Cheese, Grated.

Break the eggs into a saucepan, add the butter, the grated cheese, a little salt and pepper. Place the saucepan on a hot fire, stir the mixture around and around till the edges

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begin to thicken, and when of the consistency of a thick starch take off the fire and serve immediately on buttered toast.

Eggs With Asparagus Tips.

Oeufs auw Pointes d’Asperges 2 Tablespoonfuls of Asparagus Tips. 1 Tablespoonful of Milk. Salt and Buttered Toast.

Boil the asparagus tips (see recipe), and put the eggs into a saucepan, with the butter, after seasoning well with salt and pepper, and mixing in the milk. Stir a second, throw in the asparagus, and scramble as in preceding recipe. Serve on buttered toast. Cauliflower may be prepared with eggs in the same way.

Shirred Eggs.

Ocufs sur le Plat 6 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Break the eggs into a well buttered dish or pan, then sprinkle them with a little salt'and pepper, pour over a little melted butter, place in a quick oven, and let them bake until the yolks are set. Serve in the dish in which they have been cooked. Eggs a la Poulette.

Ocufs a le Poulette 6 Eggs. % Pint of Sauce A la Poulette. Boil the eggs hard and slice. Pour over them a Sauce & la Poulette (see recipe), and serve hot.

Beauregard Eggs.

Oeufa @ la Beauregard 6 Eggs. % Pint of Fresh Milk. 1 Tablespoonful of Cornstarch. Boil the eggs for five minutes, till hard. Then take out of the water, cool, peel, and carefully separate the whites from the yolks, rubbing the latter through a sieve, and chopping the former very fine. But do not mix them. Have the milk ready to boil, and rub the butter and cornstarch together, and add to the boiling milk. Then add the whites of the eggs, and salt and pepper to taste. Prepare previous to this some buttered toast, and cover it now with a layer of this white sauce, and then add a layer of the yolks of the eggs. Add another layer of the sauce, and another layer of the yolks, and then the remainder of the sauce. Sprinkle the top with a little salt and pepper, set it in the oven, let it stand two minutes, and serve hot.

Plain Omelet.

Omelette 1 Tablespoonful of If you wish to have the omelet very nice, break the whites and yolks separately, and beat the former till they come to a light froth, and the latter till they are quite light. Then beat the whites and yolks together. Season well, Melt the butter in a frying pan, letting it grow hot, but not by any means brown. Pour in the mixture of egg. Let it stand about two minutes, shaking occasionally to prevent it from sticking to the pan. Continue shaking over a quick fire until the eggs are set. Then roll the omelet, folding it in two or three rolls and making it long and narrow. Take a hot dish, turn the omelet into it, garnish with parsley, and serve hot immediately, or it will fall.- It is always easier to make several small,omelets and have them pretty and sightly than to succeed perfectly in making a large one.

Creole Omelet.

Omelette @ la Oréole 6 Fine, Ripe Tomatoes. 2 Onions. ss.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Minced Ham. Scald and skin six fine, ripe tomatoes, and chop them fine. Chop two onions, and mince-the garlic very fine, and add a large spoonful of bread crumbs. Fry them with a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan till quite brown. Then add the tomatoes, and salt, pepper and Cayenne to taste, and let all stew for an hour, at least. Prepare the eggs as for Ham Omelet (see recipe), and when the tomatoes are quite done have ready. a heated frying pan and a half tablespoonful of butter. Pour them into the pan, As they become set pour in the cen-

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‘ SS ter the tomatoes, and fold the omelet over, and cook for two minutes longer. Roll gently into a dish and serve hot.

Ham Omelet.

Omelette au Jambon 4 Eggs. % Teaspoonful of Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Milk.

8 Tablespoonfuls of Chopped Ham. % Grated Onion.

Beat the yolks to a cream, and add the other ingredients. Rub all these smoothly together, and then add the whites of eggs, beaten to a froth. Beat all thoroughly together. Put a tablespoonful of butter in the frying pan. When it melts add the omelet. Let it stand, shaking occasionally to prevent from sticking to the pan, till the eggs are quite set. Then fold as in a plain omelet, turn into a hot dish and serve.

Kidney Omelet.

Omelette auw Rognons 3 Kidneys.

Cut the fat from the kidneys, wash well, and cut into small pieces. Mix these with the eggs, which you will have prepared as for a plain omelet, and proceed as in Ham Omelet. This is very nice served with Tomato Mushroom Omelet.

Omelette auz Champignons Stew the mushrooms a few minutes. Then chop them fine. Make a plain omelet. When it is ready to fold, place the mushrooms across the center, fold twice over, let it cook two minutes longer, and serve hot. Onion Omelet.

Omelette & VOignon 4 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Large Onion Minced Very Fine. Beat the eggs as for a plain omelet. Then stew the onions in the butter till quite tender. Stir them in the omelet once, and let it cook as in a plain omelet. Roll in folds, and serve hot.

Omelet Souffle.

Omelette Souffiée The Whites of 6 Eggs. The Yolks of 4 The Juice of Half eer amon or a Spoon of Orange Flower Water.

4 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered White Have a baking dish ready, greased with butter, and be sure that the oven is very hot. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff broth. Beat the yolks and the sugar to a cream, and add the juice of half a lemon or a tablespoonful of orange flower water. Add the whites of the eggs. Stir carefully and “heap all quickly into the baking dish and bake about fifteen minutes, till the top is a delicate brown. Serve immediately, as it will fall if allowed to stand. This may be served as a sweet entremet or as a dessert. Parsley Omelet.

Omelette au Persil 6 Eggs. 1% Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Cut Parsley. ner as for Plain Omelet, only mix a tablespoonful of cut parsley in the omelet before putting it in the frying pan.

Truffle Omelet.

Omelette auz Truffes 6 Eggs. 2 Truffles.

An omelet with truffles is made in the same manner as a Mushroom Omelet.

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Le Riz de la Loutsianne The cultivation of rice began in Louisiana nearly a hundred years after it commenced in Georgia and South Carolina, but Louisiana now produces more of this beautiful grain than both these states combined. It is one of the great Louisiana staples, and New Orleans.is the distributing point of the crop that yearly makes our rice fields of Southwestern Louistana the wonder and admiration of tourists. In no section of the world can rice be grown at so small a cost as in Louisiana and it requires but little capital to begin such a business, The following recipes, carefully selected from among many that are used in New Orleans, will give an idea of how rice is prepared and made such a delightful article of food in all Creole households:

How to Prepare Rice for Cooking. The whiteness of the rice depends in a great degree upon its being washed thoroughly. Pick the rice clean, and wash it well in cold water before attempting to cook, rubbing the rice well with the hands to get all the dust off. Pour off the first water, and add fresh; then pour off this, and add fresh again. The rice will then be ready to cook. How to Boil Rice.

When properly boiled, rice should be snowy white, perfectly dry and smooth, and every grain separate and distinct. To attain this end, put a quart of water on the fire, and let it boil well, with a teaspoonful of salt. Wash a cup of rice well in cold water. When the water commences to boil well add the rice. The boiling water will toss the grains of rice, and prevent them from clinging together. As soon as the grains commence to soften do not, under any circumstances, stir or touch the rice again. Let it continue to boil rapidly for about twenty minutes, or until the grains begin to gwell out, and it appears to thicken. This is easily ascertained by touching one of the grains with your finger. When it has reached this stage take the cover off and pour off the water, and set the pot in the oven, so that the rice may swell up. Let it stand in the oven about ten minutes. Do not let it brown, but simply dry— that is, let the water which rises dry out of the rice. Take it off, and let it stand a few minutes. Then pour out into a dish. Every grain will be white and beautiful, and stand apart because the drying in the oven will have.evaporated the moisture, leaving the rice soft, snowy white and perfectly dry.

Boiled rice is delicious served with chicken, turkey, crab or shrimp or okra gumbo, as also with many vegetables, all daubes, and with gravies of all kinds. It is the standing dish of every Creole table.

Creole Jambalaya.

Jambalaya @ la Créole Jambalaya is a Spanish-Creole dish, which is a great favorite in New Orleans, and is made according to the following recipe.

One and a Half Cups of Rice. 1 Pound of Fresh Pork. 1 Slice of Ham. 1 Dozen Fine Chaurices (Pork Sausages).

2 Bay Leaves. 2 Cloves Ground Very ne.

3 Quarts of Beef Broth or Hot Water. (Broth Preferred.) % Spoonful of Chili Pepper. Cut the pork very fine, lean and fat, into pieces of about:half an inch Square. Chop the onions very fine, and mince the garlic and fine herts.

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Grind the cloves. Put a tablespoonful of butter into the sauce pan, and add the onions and pork, and let them brown slowly. Stir frequently, and let them continue browning slightly. At this stage, add the slice of ham, chopped very fine, and the cloves of garlic. Then add the minced herbs, thyme, bay leaf and parsley and cloves. Let all this brown for five minutes longer, and add a dozen fine Chaurices, cut apart, and let all cook five minutes longer. Then add the three quarts of ‘water or broth, always using in preference the broth. Let it all cook for ten minutes, and when it comes to a boil add the rice, which has been carefully washed. Then add to this a half teaspoonful of Chili pepper, and salt and Cayenne to taste. The Creoles season highly with Cayenne. Let all boil for a half hour longer, or until the rice is firm, Crab Jambalaya.

Jambalaya auz Crabes 1 Dozen Fine, Large Crabs. 1% Cups of Rice. 38 Quarts of Broth. 3 Tomatoes. 2 Onions.

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 2 Cloves of ¢ hontite.

2 Sprigs o yme.

4 Teaspoonful of Chili Pepper. Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. Boil the crabs according to recipe. (See “Boiled Crabs.) Then cut in pieces, cutting the bodies into quarters.. Proceed in exactly the same manner as in making Shrimp Jambalaya..

Jambalaya au Congri.

Jambalaya au Congri 1 Cup of Rice.

1 Pint of Cowpeas.

1 Large Onion.

% Pound of Salt Meat. 1 Square Inch of Ham.

Chop the salt meat, after washing, into dice, and mince the ham. Boil the cowpeas and the salt meat and ham together. Add the onion, minced very fine. Boil the rice according to recipe for boiled rice. (See recipe.) Chop the meat well. After the peas and the rice are cooked, pour the rice into the pot of peas, which must not be dry, but very moist. Mix well.. Let all simmer for five minutes, and then serve hot. On Fridays and fast days the Creoles boil the peas in water, adding a tablespoonful of butter, but no meat. It is again buttered according to individual taste at table. The jambalaya, however, is much nicer when made with the meat.

Shrimp Jambalaya.

Jambalaya aus Chevrettes 1% Cups of Rice. 3 Tomatoes. 80 Lake Shrimp.

2 Onions. Cayenne to Taste. & Teaspoonful of Chili Pepper. alt. Pepper. 2 Cloves of Garlic. Chop two onions very fine, and put.them in a saucepan to brown with a tablespoonful of butter. After a few minutes add a tablespoonful of flour and stir well. Then add chopped thyme, bay leaf and parsley, and two cloves of garlic, minced very fine. Let all of this fry five minutes longer, and be careful not to let it burn or brown too much. Add a half teespoonful of Chili pepper, and three large tomatoes, chopped fine, and also add the juice. Let all brown or simmer for ten minutes longer. When cooked add three quarts of broth or water, or if on Friday, and you do not eat meat, add oyster water or plain water (the former preferred) which has been heated to the boiling point. Let all boil well, and then add the lake shrimp, which you will already have boiled according to recipe. (See recipe for Boiled Shrimp.) Let the mixture boil again for five minutes, and add _one cup and a half of rice, or half a pound, which has been well washed. Mix all well, and let boil for half or three-quarters of an hour longer, stirring every once in a while, so as to mix all together. * Serve hot. A French Pilou,’ Pilou Francate 3 Chickens. Cup of Rice.

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. Bread Crumbs. Boil the fowls according to recipe. (See récipe Boiled Chicken.) When done, take. out about a pint of the liquor in which it was boiled, and put the rice which you will have washed well, into the remaining boiling broth. Let it cook well for twenty minutes, and then add two tablespoonfuls of butter to the rice. Butter the bottom of a dish, and put upon it one-half of the rice, spreading out nicely. Lay

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upon it the chickens, which have been disjointed and buttered. Add the remaining chicken broth, pouring over the chickens. Then cover the fowls with the other half of the rice. Make the top perfectly smooth. Spread over it the yolks of two eggs, which have been well beaten. Sprinkle with bread crumbs, and dot with little bits of butter here and there. Set in the oven, let it brown, and serve hot. Chicken With Rice.

Poulet au Riz 1 Young Chicken. % Cup of Rice. Prepare and cook the chicken as in Poulet au Riz (see recipe under chapter on meat soups), only do not cut up the chicken, but stew it whole. When three-fourths done, add the rice, and in serving place the chicken in the center of the dish and heap the rice around. Young chickens are best for this dish. An old chicken may be cut up and cooked till tender, as in Poulet au Riz.

Pilaff of Chicken.

Pilau de Volatile 1 Chicken, About Four Pounds. % Cup of Rice. 1 Tablespoonful of Clean and cut the chicken as you would for a fricassée. Put in a stewpan and cover well with water. Add salt and pepper again to taste, having, of course, previously rubbed the fowl with salt and pepper. Let the chicken simmer gently for about an hour. Then take a half cup of rice and wash it thoroughly. Add it to the chicken. Salt again to taste, Cover and let all simmer for about twenty minutes longer. Then make a Tomato Sauce (see recipe). Dish the chicken and rice together setting the chicken in the center of the dish and the rice around for a border. Serve hot with the sauce. This dish can be nicely made from the remains of cold chicken or mutton..

How to Make a Rice Border. ‘ Bordure de Riz 1 Cup of Rice._1 Quart of Bolling Boil the rice according to recipe given above, using one cup to one quart of boiling water. Boil rapidly for fifteen minutes. Pour off any water that remains on top. Set in the oven to dry for about ten minutes, then drain. Season with salt and pepper, and press into a well-buttered border mold. Put it in the oven and let it bake ten minutes. Take out. Place a dish on the mold. Turn it upside down, and remove the mold. The hollow space in the center can be filled with a White or Brown Fricassée of Chicken or Curry or_Crawish..

Curry of Crawfish.

Ecrevisses au Kart 1 Cup of Rice. 3 Dozen Crawfish. 2 Ounces of Butter. 1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Sprigs of Thyme. 2 Sprigs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. Juice of Half a Lemon. 1 Teaspoonful of Curry Powder. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Quart of Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Cayenne.

Boil the crawfish according to the recipe given. (See Boiled Crawfish.) Clean and pick the crawfish just as if for a fricassée. Put two ounces of butter in the frying pan. Cut one onion in slices, add it to the butter, letting it brown nicely. Then add the well seasoned crawfish, and fry them to a golden brown. Add one clove of garlic, finely minced, and minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Let this brown. After five minutes, add a quart of boiling water. Stir well. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Simmer gently until the crawfish are very tender. When done add the juice of half @ lemon, and mix one even tablespoonful of Curry Powder and one of flour with a little water. Bring it to a@ smooth paste by rubbing well, and add it to the crawfish. Stir constantly, and let it boil five minutes longer. Serve with a border of boiled rice heaped around it. Curry of Chicken is made in the same manner, by adding the Curry Powder.

Boiled Rice, Italian Style. Riz Bouilti a VItalienne 1 Cup of Rice. A Slice of Breakfast 1 Tables; nf pager. ted P espoonful o rate arm \.

1 Pinch Saffrop. Salt and Pepper to ‘Wash one cup of rice very carefully. To about a quart of boiling water, add

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a slice of bacon and a tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, with a pinch of saffron. Let it boil well for five minutes. Then add the rice gradually, continuing to cook according to thé recipe for boiled rice. When done, remove the bacon, dot the top with bits of butter, set in the stove to dry for ten minutes, and serve hot. Calas.

“Belle Cala! Trout Choud!” Under this cry was sold by the ancient Creole negro women in the Frefich Quarter of New Orleans a delicious rice cake, which was eaten with the morning cup of Café au Lait. The Cala woman was always seen upon the streets until the last few years. She went the rounds in quaint bandana tignon, guinea blue dress and white apron, and carried on her head a covered bowl, in which were the dainty and hot Calas, Her cry, “Belle Cala! Tout Chaud!"” would penetrate the morning air, and the old Creole cooks would rush to the doors to get the first fresh, hot Calas to carry to their masters and mistresses with the early morning cup of coffee. The Cala women have passed away, but the custom of making Calas still remains. In many an ancient home the good housewife tells her daughters just how ‘“Tante Zizi” made the Calas in her day, and so are preserved these ancient traditional recipes.

From one of the last of the olden Cala women, one who walked the streets of the French Quarter for fifty years and more, we have procured the following genuine Creole recipe: 1g Cup of Rice. 3 Cups Water (boiling). 3 Eggs. Cup of Sugar.

Powdered White Sugar.

Boiling Lard.

. Put three cups of water in a saucepan and let it boil hard. Wash half [email protected] of rice thoroughly, and drain and put in the boiling water. Let it boil till very soft and mushy. Take it out and set it to cool. When cold, mash well and mix with the yeast, which you will have dissolved in a half cup of hot water. Set the rice to rise overnight. In the morning beat three eggs thoroughly, and add to the rice, mixing and beating well. Add a half cup of sugar and threo tablespoonfuls of fiour, to make the rice adhere. Mix well and beat thoroughly, bringing it to a thick batter. Set to rise for fifteen minutes longer. Then add about a half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and mix well. Have ready a frying pan, in which there is boiling lard sufficient for the rice cakes to swim in. Test by dropping in a small piece of bread. If it becomes a golden brown the lard is ready, but if it hurns or browns instantly it is too hot. The golden brown color is the true test. Take a large deep spoon, and drop a spoonful at a time of the preparation into the boiling lard, remembering always that the cake must not touch the bottom of the pan. Let fry to a nice brown. The old Cala women used to take the Calas piping hot, wrap them in a clean towel, basket or bowl, and rush through the streets with the welcome cry, “Belle Cala! Tout Chaud!” ringing on the morning air. But in families the cook simply takes the Calas out of the frying pan and drains ‘off the lard by laying in a colander or on heated pieces of brown paper. They are then placed in a hot dish, sprinkled over with powdered sugar, and eaten hot with Café au Lait. Rice Waffles.

- Goufres de Ric 1% Cups of Softly Boiled Rice. 2 Ounces of Butter! Pint of Scalded 1 Teaspoontul of Baking Powder.

kd Teaspoonful of Salt.

1 Tablespoonful of Wheat Flour. The rice must be cold and well mashed. Melt the two tablespoonfuls of butter in the milk, which must then be set to cool. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the whites separately, making the latter come to a stiff froth. Mix the rice and milk. Beat thoroughly, and then add a half teaspoonful of salt and one of baking powder, and the flour. Put the yolks into the batter, first blending well, and lastly add the whites, and beat well again. The waffie iron should be very hot, and well greased in every part. Always have a little brush with which to grease the waffle irons, Pour the batter into a pitcher, so that you may more easily fill the irons. Open the irons, pour in the batter and fill

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the iron quickly. Then close at once and set on a very quick fire. As soon as the edges are set, turn the iron and bake on the other side. Two minutes should be all the time reaquired to bake a waffle nicely. Always select the simple waffle baker with four compartments in preference to the more elaborate designs as better results will be achieved. When the waffles are baked, remove them carefully, place on a hot dish, piling them in double rows and butter them generously. Rice waffles are generally served with ground cinnamon and sugar mixed and sprinkled over. But this is a matter of taste. They are very delicious when served with butter and Louisiana Syrup or Molasses. Rice Griddle Cakes.

Gateaue de Riz 1 Pint of Milk. 1%, Cups of Cold Boiled ce.

2 Heaping Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder, 1 Large Teaspoonful of Salt. Scald the milk and set it to cool. Press the rice through a sieve, and then add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, then the salt, yeast powder and flour, blended, and beat well. Then add the milk, blending thoroughly, and finally the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix thoroughly and bake on a hot griddle. Rice Bread.

Pain de Riz.

1 Cup of Cold Boiled Rice. 2 Cups of White Indian Meal. Ses.

2 Heaping Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder.

1% Pints Milk.

1 Teaspoonful Salt.

Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs together until very light, and then pour in the milk, mixing gradually. Add the well prepared meal, in which you have already mixed the salt and baking powder. Beat well. Then add the melted butter and the rice, which must have been mashed through a sieve. Mix all thoroughly and beat till very light. Then grease the bottom of a shallow pan and turn the mixture in and bake half an hour in a hot oven. Serve hot, buttering the slices freely. This is a delicious breakfast bread, and, as in any of the above recipes, cold left over rice may be utilized in its making. Rice Croquettes With Parsley Croquettes de Riz au Persti 1 Cup of Rice. 1 Quart of Milk. Wash the rice well, and put it on to boil in a farina boiler with the milk, or use cold boiled rice, and set it to boil with the milk, after pressing through a sieve. If the rice has not been cooked, let it boil about an hour. If it has already been cooked, twenty minutes will suffice. When very thick take from the fire and beat until very smooth, mashing up each grain. Then and cook for about eight or ten minutes longer. Add the parsley and seasoning, using only white pepper. Take it from the fire, mix well, turn it out on a plate, and let it cool. Afterwards, form it into pretty cylinders of about three inches in length and one and a half in thickness. Roll these in a beaten egg, to bind, and then in bread crumbs, and fry in boiling lard. Drain and serve with a daube, or any other meat cooked with gravy.

Rice juettes With Fruit.

Croquettes de Rig aug Fruite. % Cup of Rice. 1 Pint of Milk. 2 Large Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. % Cup of Currants. Cup of Raisins. ¥% Cup of Citron.

% Teaspoonful of Vanilla Essence. Put the milk into a farina boiler, and add the rice which you will have washed well. Boil until very thick. Seed the raisins and prepare the other fruits. Beat the eggs well and add them to the rice, and then stir in the sugar. Beat until very smooth. Then take from the fire, and add the essence of vanilla, the raisins and currants, and the citron. Turn out all into a dish to cool. Then form into pretty pyramids, and dip first in a well beaten egg, and then in bread crumbs. Fry in boiling lard. Drain well. When about to serve, put a small piece of Currant Jelly on the top of each croquette. Then dust the whole with powdered sugar, and serve with Sauce a la Vanille. (Vanilla

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cn ered Rice Flour Croquettes.

Croquettes de Farine de Riz 1 Quart Milk. % Split Vanilla Stick. 6 Ounces of Ground Rice. % Pound of 2 Ounces Butter. Yolks of 8 Eggs. 1 Ounce of Pineapple. 2 Ounces of Apricots.

8 Ounces of Cherries.

1 Ounce of Orange Peel. A Cream Boil a quart of milk, and add to it while boiling the split vanilla stick. Take out the vanilla afterwards; then cut all the fruit and orange peel into small dice, throwing away the seeds. Drop the ground rice like a shower of rain into the boiling milk, stirring it continuously with a whisk of the hand. When it begins to soften, set it back, and let it cook for fifteen minutes longer. Then mix in the cut fruits, and add the butter, which you will have melted. Add the eggs, which have been beaten very light in the sugar. Mix thoroughly, and add the orange peel, cut into quarter dice. When the mixture is very light, set it to cool, by spreading it out on a baking sheet, covered with white paper. When cold, divide it into small balls, roll these in powdered Macaroons (see recipe Macaroons), dip in beaten egg, and then roll in white bread crumbs. Fry in boiling lard. Drain in a heated colander or on a piece of brown paper. Then place the croquettes nicely on a dish, sprinkle with vanilla sugar, and serve each separately, with a Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) This is a delicious dish. Rice Custard.

Riz au Latt 1 Cup Rice. % Cup Sugar. % Grated The Peel of a Quarter of an Orange, Cut in Dice.

Boil the rice very soft, and then add the milk, and let it come to a good boil. Add the orange peel, cut in quarter dice. Beat the eggs and sugar together until very light, and add to the boiling custard. Cook for one minute longer. Then take from the fire, and add the vanilla and onequarter of the grated nutmeg. Placo all in a dish to cool. Sprinkle the top with grated nutmeg, and serve cold. This is a famous Creole dish. If you wish to have a baked custard, place the custard in a pan or in cups. Set in the oven to brown, and serve hot, with a Cream Sauce. The above amount will fill about eight cups. Rice Dumplings.

Echaudés de Riz It was the old Creole negro cooks who first evolved that famous Creole dessert, “Echaudés de Riz,” which is made as follows:

% Cup of Flour. 3 Cups of Ground 8 Apples, Tart and Not Overripe. 2 Quarts of Milk. Sugar and Cinnamon. % of the Peel of an Orange. Pare the applies and take out the cores, leaving the apples whole. Mix the ground cinnamon and sugar, and fill the cores heaping over with this mixture. In the meantime boil the rice in milk till it comes to the consistency of flour, having added the grated peel of an orange and a half teaspoonful of grated nutmeg and a half cup of flour. Take off the fire, and let it cool. Then cover each apple all over with a very thick coating of the rice, and tie each dumpling in a cloth very tightly, and put them in a pot of cold water. Bring the water to a quick boil, and boil the apples for three-quarters of an hour. When done, untie the cloth and place the dumplings carefully on a large dish. Sprinkle each with a little grated nutmeg, put on top of each a dot of butter, set in the oven for five or ten minutes to brown, and serve with a Hard or Cream Sauce. They are most delicious with a Hard Sauce. They may be served without heating in the oven, immediately after they have been taken from the water, or they may be servd cold.

Again, in large families, the apples may be cut in halves or quarters, and boiled in the same manner, covering with the coating of rice, as in the following recipe:

Apples and Rice.

Riz & la Condé Cut three large, fine apples in halves and pare and core them. Then bake in the oven ‘until quite done and juicy. Make a Rice Pudding (see recipe), using only one cup of rice and other ingredients in proportion. When the apples are cold, set in a dish, placing each apple over a small

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bed of Rice Pudding. Place the same quantity on top of the apple, so that it will be inclosed by the rice as a wall. Serve them in saucers, and pour over each riced apple two tablespoonfuls of Cream sauce. (See Sauces for Puddings, etc.).

Rice Meringue.

Meringue de Riz 6 Creole Eggs.

1 Pint Milk.

2 Tablespoonfuls Butter.

The Grated Rind of a Lemon. ‘Wash the rice thoroughly, and cook it in a quart of boiling water. When very soft, drain the rice of all water by pressing through a colander, and add it to the milk. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together till very light and add the butter. Then add the juice and the grated rind of a lemon, and mix thoroughly. Place the whole mixture in a baking dish, and bake for half an hour in a quick oven. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and add gradually six tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar (white), beating it in well all the time. Continue beating till the whites are stiff enough to stand alone. Pour this over the top of the rice, and set it back in the oven a few minutes to 1 Cup Rice. 2 Cups brown. It may be served either hot or cold.

Rice Soufié.

BSoufié de Riz % Pound of Rice Flour. % Pound of ¥% Pint Cream.* 6 Fresh Creole Eggs..

1 Teaspoonful Vanilla. % Teaspoonful The Grated Peel of Half an Orange. Boil the rice well, according to recipe, and when very soft add the half pint of cream, and let it come to a boll. Beat the butter and sugar and the yolks of the eggs together until very light. Then add the rice, which has been boiled in the milk. Set on the fire, put in the grated peel of half an orange, and stir continually till it thickens. Add the salt. Stir well. Theh take from the fire, and add the vanilla. Have the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff thick froth. Pour this over the rice. Set in the oven a few minutes to brown, and serve immediately while very hot, or it will fall.

Snowballs.

Riz 2 la Né&ige 1 Cup Rice. 1 Pint Milk. 4% Cup White The Whites of Six Eggs.

Boil the rice with the milk, and add the whites of three eggs, well beaten with the sugar. Stir well, and flavor with the juice of one lemon. The mixture should be white as snow. Take from the fire as it thickens well, and set in a dish to cool. Form the rice into small balls of about two and a half inches square (little **boulettes,"” as the Creoles call them). Have the rest of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Cover the tops of the balls with the mixture and place in the stove to heat. Let the balls remain about four minutes, without browning. Take out, and serve with a Cream Sauce (see recipe Sauces for Puddings), or just as they are.

Rice Cream Pudding Pouding de Riz @ la Créme 1 Cup of Boiled Hice.

1 Ounce of Pineapple. 2 Ounces of Raisins.

2 Ounces of Currants.

1 Ounce of Grated Orange Peel. 1 Quart of Milk. The Yolks of 6 Eggs. Boil the rice well, and then drain through a colander and set to boil with the milk. When it has cooked for twenty minutes, add all the fruits, being careful to have the pineapple cut into dice, all the raisins seeded, and the currants picked, washed and dried. Then add the orange peel and grated nutmeg, and finally the eggs, which have been well beaten in the sugar till very light. Let all simmer for just one minute. Then take off the stove, place in a baking pan, and set to brown nicely in a quick oven for about twenty-five minutes. When well browned, have ready a meringue, which you will have made by beating the whites of two eggs to a froth (reserved from the eggs as above), and add to this two tablespoonfuls of powdered white sugar. Spread all this over the pudding. Let it brown slightly in a hot oven, or the meringue will fall. Serve either hot or very cold. The pudding may be made without the addition of the pineapple.

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Frozen Rice Custard Creme de Riz Glacte 1 Cupful of Rice. 1 Quart of Milk. A Pint of Cream.

1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 6 Oranges. Prepare just as above, in the boiling, but omit the fruits and use only the grated rind of an orange in making the pudding. When cold, add the juice of an orange and the cream, beaten or whipped to a froth. Four tablespoonfuls of lemon juice may be substituted for the orange juice, if the taste be preferred. Then freeze, exactly as you would ice cream, and serve with an Orange Sauce, prepared as follows:

Boil together for ten minutes one cupful of water, half a cup of sugar, and the grated yellow rind or zest of two oranges. Add to this the strained juice of four oranges. Cool and set to freeze. Boil three tablespoonfuls of sugar with three of water for two minutes. Beat this into the white of one egg, which has already been brought to a stiff froth. Stir this meringue into the frozen mixture, and the sauce will be ready to serve with the pudding or custard. Rice With Compote of Oranges. Riz & Ila Compote d’Oranges % Cup of Rice. 1, Pir Pints Milk. 1 Quart Crea:

ee Cups Sugar.

Yolks of 8 Eggs 1 Tablespoonful of The Grated Peel of an Orange. 12 Sweet Louisiana. Oranges. 1 Pound jugar.

1 Gill Water.

Wash the rice clean, and boll according to recipe in about a pint and a quarter of water. In half an hour take it off the fire, drain, and press through a sieve. Then add it to the milk, and let it boil slowly a half hour longer without burning. Whip the cream to a stiff froth, add all the drain to the rice in milk, and set the whipped cream to cool until it is needed. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar until they are very Nght. Add them to the boiling rice, stirring constantly and well, and let it cook for two minutes, adding in the meantime the grated peel of the orange. Take the mixture from the fire. Then add the tablespoonful of vanilla, and the grated nutmeg. Mix well and set out to cool. Remove the dasher from the ice cream freezer, and when the mixture has become very cool, turn it into the freezer and let it set packed in rock salt and ice for three hours.

In the meantime wash a dozen sweet Louisiana oranges, then peel and cut them crosswise into halves. Take out the cores with the sharp point of a pen-knife, and set the halves aside for use. Put a pound of sugar to boil with one gill of water, and after ten minutes add the juice of half alemon. Put a few pieces at a time of the oranges into this boiling liquid, and lay them out side by side in a flat dish. Pour over them the syrup that remains from the boiling, and set the dish in the ice box to cool. When ready to serve, wipe thoroughly the outside of the can that contains the pudding, and all around the edges, so as to remove any traces of. salt. Wet a towel in boiling water and stand the can upon it. Open the can. Put a round dish on top,.then turn quickly upside down, and slip off the can. If the pudding adheres, repeat the applications of the hot towel at the bottom and around the sides till the can slips off. Place the oranges on top and all around the pudding, and pour over them the syrup, which has become cool, but not frozen. Serve immediately. This is one of the most delicious, as well as one of the most typical of our Loulsiana methods of serving rice as a dessert.

Left-Over Rice.

Enough has been said and written in these recipes to give an idea of the possibilities of Louisiana rice under proper methods of culinary preparation. It enters into many different combinations in cooking, and among poorer Creoles with large families it takes, in a great measure, the place of bread. A meal of boiled rice, with Grillades, or else with Red Beans or White Beans, is very popular among the Creoles, especially those of limited means, all of these being good, nourishing, as well as economical, dishes, the rice not only saving the expenditure of money for bread, but making a most welcome and palatable substitute. The family that uses rice daily will note the economy that follows in the purchase of bread.

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Left-over rice may be utilized in almost any of the above dishes, but it is more generally used in the making of rice waffies or rice cakes for breakfast, Calas, etc. It is also fried or made into rice fritters, as follows: Fried Rice.

Riz Frit Take the left-over rice from the day before, and cut it into slices of proper thickness, and fry to a nice brown, turning it carefully, to avoid breaking the slices. This makes an excellent breakfast dish, with Grillades a la Sauce. (See recipe.) Rice Fritters.

Beignets de Riz Take the left-over rice and mash very fine. If you have only a cupful, take three eggs, a half cup of flour, one teaspoonful of yeast powder, and sugar to taste, and beat all into a light, thick batter. Cook by dropping a spoonful at a time into boiling lard. This is a sweet entremet, as also an excellent breakfast dish.

Parched Rice, Riz Grillé Rice may be parched in the same manner as popcorn. It is a method of cooking rice that came to New Orleans from the West Indies, and was brought into general use by the San Domingo refugees, who came to New Orleans in numbers after the great insurrection. When the culture of rice became general'in the Southwestern parishes of our State, these old settlers began to have rice-parching gatherings, which became very fashionable. The Creole children and the belles and beaux of eighty years ago enjoyed parching rice just as much as Northern children, youths and maidens enjoy roasting chestnuts or parching corn. Rice is parched in the same manner as the Creoles parch popcorn. The parched grain of rice becomes a beautiful open ball, which is eaten with salt or sugar, and is very delicious.

ERe=ALS Les Céréales Under the heading of Cereals are classed Wheat, Rye, Barley, Oats, Corn, Maize or Indian Corn, Buckwheat and Rice. As rice is one of our great Louisiana staples, and the proper methods of preparing it are so little known, it has been separately treated in the chapter above. The other Cereals are in general use in every section of our country, and thus require less amplification. Wheat.

Du Froment On account of its universal consumption and great nutritive qualities, Wheat is considered the principal cereal. In the form of bread, it has long been distinguished as the “Staff of Life.” The structure of the grain, like that of other cereals, consists of a gritty, woody center covering, which is indigestible, and which is gotten rid of, after the grain has been ground, by “‘sifting.”” In the whole wheat grain is found a perfect food, for it contains all that is necessary to support life—starch, gluten, sugar, nitrogenous and carbonaceous matter, water, salts, potash, soda, lime, phosphoric acid, magnesia, etc. In what is called “whole meal,” the bran and pollards derived from the outer covering are retained. From this wheat is made “Brown Bread,” but though this kind of bread contains far more nitrogenous matter than white bread, it is not in general use, on account of its indigestibility. It should never be eaten by persons with weak stomachs.

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Wheat contains a gluten, which is @ gray, elastic, tough substance. This gluten is especially abundant in wheat grown in warm climates. From this gluten paste Macaroni and Vermicelli are made.

Cracked Wheat.

Froment Crevé of Cracked Wheat. 1 Quart of ater. {1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Under the name of “Cracked Wheat” there is sold in the markets whole wheat grains, which are cooked by boiling in a double boiler until the entire envelop of the grain bursts open. It will require four hours of good boiling, therefore, it is best to soak the grain over night in a quart of cold water. In the morning set the kettle containing the grain in another kettle of cold water, add the salt, and let it gradually heat and boil for at least an hour and a half. It should be thoroughly cooked. Serve with sugar and cream for 1 Cu Farina.

Farine % Cup of Farina.

1 Quart of Water or Milk.

Add the salt to the milk or water, and then sift in slowly sufficient Farina to make a thick gruel. Set ina double boiler, and let it cook for about a half hour, stirring frequently while it boils.

Farina Gruel.

.. Gruau de Farine.

1 Cup of Boiling Water.

1 Cup of Fresh Milk.

1 Large Tablespoonful of Farina. 2 Tablespoonfuls of White Sugar. In preparing this splendid food for infants, take a cup of boiling water, one cup of milk, and a pinch of salt. Stir the Farina into the cup of boiling water, slightly salted, and let it cook in a double-boiler, stirring constantly, till it thickens. Then add the milk, stirring it gradually, and let it boil about fifteen minutes longer. Sweeten, and when it is cool give it to the child. Enough may be made to last all day. Warm, when it is needed, with a little boiling milk. Rye.

Beigle Rye meal, once such a common article of food in New Orleans, is still extensively used by the German population, both in making Rye Bread and in making Rye Mush. In regard to its nutritive quality, Rye ranks slightly lower than flour. Rye Mush.

Boutlle de Seigle % Cup of Rye Meal..

1 Quart of Bolling Water.

Sift the meal into the boiling water, and stir constantly while doing so. Add the salt, and continue stirring till the mixture begins to boil..Then covet and let it cook slowly for at least an hour and a quarter. Serve hot for breakfast, with sugar and Oats.

Avoine.

From Oats, which are used 80 extensively as food for beasts, is produced Oatmeal, which heads the list of flesh-producing and strengthening grains, being far richer than flour in nitrogen and fat, and, therefore, more nutritious. With oatmeal porridge for breakfast, oatmeal cakes for dinner, milk, potatoes and a few vegetables, the hard-working laborer or brain worker need require little else for sustenance from year’s end to year’s end.

Oatmeal.

Gruau d’Avoine 1 Cup of Oatmeal.

1 Quart of Bolling Water.

It it best to soak the oatmeal over. night, when the coarse Scotch Oats are used. Then cook for a half hour in the morning, boiling constantly, and salt to taste. If the oatmeal is not soaked, it will require at least an hour to cook. It burns very easily, and, therefore, it is always best to use a double boiler. Serve hot with Steamed Oatmeal.

Gruau d’Avroine @ la Vapeur 1 Teacupful of Oatmeal.

1 Quart of Bolling Water.

Add the oatmeal to the water, and then add the salt, and set the steaming vessel over a pot of cold water, and let it gradually heat, and then steam for an hour and a half. Keep closely covered. When done, serve with cream.

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———— Oat Flakes.

Flocons d’Avoine 1 Teacupful of Oat Flakes. 1 Quart of Bolling Water.

This delicious and delicate oatmeal dish is prepared by putting a quart of water into a _ porcelain-lined saucepan, and letting it come to a boil. Add the salt, and when it is boiling stir in gradually the oat flakes. Keep stirring to prevent burning. Let the mixture boil for about fifteen or twenty minutes, and serve with sugar and cream, or simply cream or milk. Du Mate Under this heading are included Corn proper and our ‘own Indian Corn, or Maize. From these come such staple dishes as “Grits,” “Big Hominy,” “Little Hominy,” ‘Lye Hominy” or.‘‘Samp.”

Corn contains far greater forceproducing and fattening matter than Wheat. Scientists declare that cornmeal contains six times as much oil as wheat. Corn Bread is, therefore, an excellent winter diet; as are also the fine “Grits” and “Big and Small Hominy.” “Samp” or “Lye Hominy” is used throughout the summer, as it is less heating. Preparations of Corn are among the cheapest, if not the very cheapest articles of food, and considering their high nutritive value, are especially recommended to the families of the poor. But, whether rich or poor, there are few Creole families in New Orleans who sit to breakfast without a good dish of Grits or Hominy.

Grits.

Du Gru Under the heading of Corn might properly be classed the white corn grits, without which no breakfast in Louisiana is considered complete. Grits is not only used for breakfast, but may appear on the table several times a day, the left-over grits from breakfast being utilized either in dainty cakes or entremets, or else warmed over and served with gravies. Grits is the ground dried corn. We have yellow grits, or grits from which the outer yellow covering of the corn has not been removed, and white grits, the latter considered the daintier preparation. From these comes the “Small Hominy,” or corn ground exceedingly fine. Grits is always boiled. Left-over grits may be fried or warmed up again, or beaten with eggs and-milk and baked. This is a most delicious dish.

Boiled Grits.

Du Gru Bouillt 2 Cups of Grits.

2 Quarts of Water. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Salt.

Wash the grits in fresh cold water, and throw off the refuse. Wash again and drain. Into two quarts of cold water put the grits. Add the salt, and stir frequently while this is coming to the boiling point. Then set it on a low fire and let it cook slowly for about an hour. It must be of the consistency of a very thick starch, or drier, if preferred. For invalids it may be cooked like a cornmeal mush. Serve hot, with any meat, with gravy, or eat with milk, like oatmeal, as a preliminary to breakfast, or, again, simply eat with butter. In any manner in which it is served it is certain to be palatable. If half milk, instead of water, is added in cooking, the dish is all the more delicious, Baked Grits.

Du Gru aur Ocufes 1 Cup of Grits.

¥% Quart of Water. % Quart of Milk. 2 Eggs. Salt to Taste.

Boil the grits in the water and milk. mixed. Season, and when quite dry, take off the stove and let it cool a little. Beat the whites and yolks separately, and when the grits ts cool beat in the yolks, and blend thoroughly. Then add the whites, and beat till very light. Add a gill of cream. Set in an oven and bake to a beautiful brown, and serve hot. This is an ideal Creole breakfast dish. Cold grits may be thus utilized. Hominy.

Saccamité Hominy is called by the Creoles the older sister of Grits. It was the Indians around Louisiana who first taught the use of hominy. They used to take all the dried Indian corn and thrash it till all the yellow, hardened

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outer germ or hull came off, the grain being left white.- Then they would bring the large whitened grains into the city to sell. The making of hominy became a great industry, and it was manufactured and sold all over the South. It was the chief food of the Southern negroes. But it was also a standing dish on the most elegant tables. The little Creole children were reared on “La Saccamité.” The hominy was boiled in water in the same proportions as grits, but, of course, allowed to cook much longer, till the great white grains of corn were very soft, and yielded easily to pressure. It is still cooked in the same way, and eaten with milk or with sugar, the latter being a favorite dish with the Creole children. It is also eaten with meat and gravy, or simply with salt and butter. Leftover hominy is utilized in making hominy griddle cakes.

We have also “Lye Hominy,” or Hominy soaked in Lye till the coarse outer germ comes off. This is the great summer dish of the city and parishes. The hominy is made in the parishes, and shipped to New Orleans. It is also pounded and used for making “Lye Hominy Bread.” ‘Boiled Hominy.

La Baccamité Bouillie 1 Pint of Hominy.

2 Quarts of Water. Salt to Taste. Hominy should always be soaked over night in cold water. Wash the hominy, and put it in two quarts of water to soak. In the morning turn both hominy and water into a saucepan, and let it boil slowly for three or four hours. Serve with sugar and cream. It may also be eaten with butter and salt and pepper. Hominy Croquettes.

La Saccamité en Croquettes These are made from the left-over hominy. They are prepared in exactly the same manner as rice croquettes. (See recipe.) Grits.may be made into croquettes in the same manner. Fried Grits or Hominy.

Gru Frit ou Raccamité Frite To fry grits or hominy, after the grain is boiled, let it cool. Then season with salt and pepper, and spread on a biscuit board. When perfectly cold cut into slices and dust each slice with a little flour. Brush again with a beaten egg, and fry in lard till a light brown.

Lye Hominy or Samp.

Saccamité a ta Leasire This is an old-fashioned Creole way of preparing hulled corn. It is and has been much in vogue for many generations throughout rural Louisjana, The corn is allowed to get very ripe, put to dry, and then hulled. It is then allowed to lie for many days, spread out upon a cloth, till thoroughly dried. An immense pot is then filled with water, and a bag containing at least a quart or more of hardwood ashes is put into it. A good peck of the old, ripe, dry, hulled corn is thrown in, and it is allowed to soak for at least twenty-four hours. The corn is then put to boil in these ashes till the husks or outer germs come off easily. Then the corn is thrown into the cold water and divested of the hulls by thorough rubbing with the hands. It is then washed in four or five waters, till every taste of potash disappears.

Another way the Creoles of rural Louisiana have of preparing Lye Hominy is to dilute the strong lye in water, and then boil the corn in this till the hull comes off. After thorough washing, the corn prepared in either fashion is sent in large quantities to New Orleans. In cooking Lye Hominy, it is either boiled in water until the kernels are soft, as in other recipes for Hominy, making a delicious dish when served with milk, or cream, or it is ground or pounded into a flour, from which is made that famous Louisiana breakfast offering, ‘“‘Lye Hominy Bread.” (See recipe under chapter on Breads.) This flour also finds a ready sale among the Creoles during summer. “(Cornmeal Mush.

Bouillie de Farine de Mats 1% Teaspoonfuls of Salt.

Set the water to boil in a porcelain-lined or agate stewpot; add the salt, and when the light scum comes

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on top skim it off. Then add the fresh, sweet, white cornmeal, putting a handful at a time into the water, and stirring with a spoon or a pudding stick, round and round, as the meal falls lightly from the hand. When one handful is exhausted, refill it, and continue stirring and letting the meal fall by degrees, until the pudding stick will stand in it. This is the test. Continue stirring, and when sufficiently cooked, which will be in a half hour, as the bubbles begin to puff up, turn into a bowl, bring to the table (either hot or cold) and eat with milk, butter, sugar, syrup or with meat and gravy. In preparing this as a gruel for infants, take one-half cup of cornmeal, a quart of water, stirring often. When done, soften with boiled new milk, sweeten to taste and feed the infant with a spoon.

Graham Meal Mush is prepared in the same manner as either of the above recipes.

Milk Porridge.

Boutllie de Lait 2 Tablespoonfuls of Indian Meal. 1 Spoon of White Flour.

3 Cups of Milk.

1% Cups of Boiling Water.

A Pinch of Salt.

Bring the flour to a paste with a little cold water, and also scald the meal with a little hot water. Have the water boiling in the proportion given above; add the meal, and then add the flour, stirring constantly. Then let it boil for about twenty minutes, and add the pinch of salt and the milk, stirring almost constantly; then let all cook for ten minutes more, stirring often. Serve while hot, with sugar and milk. This is excellent for little children and invalids, Barley.

Orge Barley is extensively used by the Creoles, especially in summer, for making soups. A good barley soup is considered not only a most nutritious dish, but a very cooling one, and especially suited to a summer diet. (See recipe for Barley Soup.) Barley water is, likewise, much used to cool the system, and also for delicate infants, with whom very often even sterilized milk does not agree and it is found absolutely necessary to substitute some other article of diet. The Creole mothers first soak two tablespoonfuls of barley in a little cold water for about an hour, and then, without draining, pour this into the boiling water, which has been very slightly salted. This water is stirred very frequently and allowed to simmer for at least an hour. It is then strained and sweetened before it is used. Thus prepared, it is highly nutritious for invalids. Barley must always be picked over, washed thoroughly several times and soaked in a little cold water hefore it is cooked. Buckwheat.

Sarrasin Buckwheat is not by any means a nutritive food, being far inferior to wheat and corn. It is never eaten alone, but, in combination with flour, is used in making that delightful breakfast accompaniment, ‘“Buckwheat Cakes.” (See recipe, under Chapter on Breads.)

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CHAPTER XXVI Macaroni is a general article of food in New Orleans among the rich and the poor. It is very cheap, and is a most excellent dish. We have in New Orleans large Macaroni factorjes, where not only Macaroni is made by the Italians themselves, but the twin sisters of Macaroni, Spaghetti and Vermicelli, are also manufactured fresh daily. While there is no city in the United States in which Macaroni is cooked in real Italian style but New Orleans, which has long been a favored point of migration for the sons of sunny Italy, the Creole cooks have modified and improved upon the Italian methods, so that Macaroni & la Créole is just as famous a dish as Macaroni a I'Italjfenne, and by many considered far superior.

How to Boil Macaroni.

Avofd breaking the macaroni as much as possible. Immerse it whole in a large saucepan of boiling water; add a tablespoonful of salt and one of butter. Let the macaroni cook from twenty to twenty-five minutes; remove from the fire and drain in a colander. If not intended for immediate use, cover at once with cold water. When cool, drain and use as needed.

Boiled Macaroni, Italian Style. Macaroni a VItalienne 1 Tablespoonful Flour.

Break the macaroni into convenient lengths, and set to boil in a kettle filled with boiling water and in which you have thrown a spoonful of salt and black pepper. Be careful to keep the lengths of macaroni firm. When cooked till tender, take off and strain the water. Now put a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour on a very low fire, blending well. Have one pound of Parmesan cheese grated; add one-half of it to the flour and butter, and one pint of the water in which the macaroni was boiled; the mixture must not be allowed to brown; stir briskly. Place the macaroni by lengths into a dish, season well with salt and pepper, and warm a few minutes in the oven. Then take out the dish and sprinkle over the macaroni one-half of the cheese that still remains; pour the hot sauce over this, and sprinkle the rest of the cheese on top; serve hot. Korea Spaghetti, Italian Style. Spaghetti @ VItalienne ig Pound of Spaghetti.

Spaghetti a lI’Italienne is prepared in the same manner as in the above recipe. Spaghetti is a more delicate form of macaroni.

The Italians in New Orleans also simply boil the macaroni or spaghetti as mentioned above, sprinkle it with grated cheese and salt and pepper, and serve with a rich tomato sauce (see recipe), and grated cheese, the latter served in separate plates. This makes a very rich dish.. Macaroni or Spaghetti thus cooked is served with daube and is a very palatable accompaniment.

Macaroni With Tomato Sauce. Macaront & Ila Sauce Tomate 1 Gill of Tomato Sauce, 1 Onion, 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Boil the macaroni in salted water for twenty minutes, adding a table-

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pre ed spoonful of butter and an onion, with two cloves stuck in it. Then drain the macaroni of all water; place it in a saucepan with two gills of Tomato Sauce. Add a quarter of a add a dash of Cayenne, and let the mixture cook slowly for ten or fifteen minutes, tossing frequently to prevent burning. Place the Macaroni on a hot dish, pour the sauce over it, and serve with grated Parmesan cheese passed in a separate dish. Spaghetti may be prepared and ‘served in the same manner. Macaroni, Creole Style.

Macaroni @ la Créole % Can of Tomatoes, or 6 Fresh Ones. 1 Tablespoonful Flour, Boil the macaroni according to the recipe given above. When done, drain through a colander without breaking the lengths. Season well with salt and pepper. But one tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan and add one tablespoonful of flour; blend well and as it browns add the tomatoes, which have been chopped fine in their own juice. Let this stew after stirring well for about ten minutes, and when it begins to boil add the macaroni or spaghetti, mixing well without breaking the lengths. Let it boil up once, and then serve hot. The dish may be eaten with any Macaroni or Spaghetti, Milanaise Style.

Macaront ou Spaghetti & la Milanaise % Pound of Cold Boiled Ham. 1 Onion. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 1 Can Tomatoes.

Boil the macaroni in water and salt as in the recipe given for Boiling Macaroni. When tender, drain well through a colander. In the meantime, while it is boiling, put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and as it melts add the grated onion. Let this brown, and then add the ham which you must have minced very fine, Let this brown; add the cloves of garlic and the various herbs, minced very fine together. Then add almost immediately, as these begin to brown, for bay leaf burns quickly, a half can of tomatoes, or six fresh large tomatoes. To this, as it cooks, add a half pound of grated Parmesan cheese, and let all stew for about ten minutes; then add the macaroni or spaghetti, and let all simmer gently for about twenty minutes longer. Serve hot, offering at the same time a small plate of gratcd Parmesan cheese to each person. Macaroni, Neapolitan Style. Macarom 4 la Napolitaine ¥% Pint of Tomato Sauce.

6 Mushrooms. 2 Truffles.

1 Ounce of Smoked Beef Tongue. 1 Carrot. 1 Herb Bouquet. 2 Sprigs of Celery.

Boil the macaroni, and cut into pieces of about two inches long, after draining thoroughly. Place it in a saucepan with a half pint of Tomato Sauce and Sauce Espagnole (see recipe), and add the cheese. Add the herb bouquet, tied together; cut the truffles and mushrooms and carrot into dice-shaped pieces; mince the celery and add; then add the beef tongue cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Let all cook for about fifteen minutes, tossing frequently in the meantime. When ready to serve, remove the herb bouquet and send to the table hot.

Macaroni au Gratin.

Macaront au Gratin % Pound of Macaroni or Spaghetti. 1 Pound of Parmesan Cheese (Grated). Boil the macaroni unbroken, not cooking it too much, but just enough to make it soft; then lift out of the water without breaking it. This will require about a half hour of rapid boiling. Season well with salt and black pepper, put in a pint of milk a tablespoonful of butter, blended well with flour, and let it boil two minutes. Place a layer of the spaghetti or macaroni in the pan in which it is to be baked, seasoning again to taste, and mix in a layer of the grated cheese;

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sprinkle with pepper and salt; then put in alternating layers of the macaroni and the cheese, continuing until threefourths of the cheese is used. Do not break the macaroni or spaghetti. Pour over this the boiling milk. Take the remaining quarter pound of cheese and sprinkle thickly on top, dot here and there with bits of butter, put it in a quick oven and let it bake to a nice brown. Serve in the dish in which it was baked. In cooking macaroni or spaghetti, cream or milk may be used always instead of water, using a pint of either in the above proportions. If you have not the milk, a pint of the water in which the macaroni was boiled will answer equally well. This recipe is highly recommended as the nicest way of preparing macaroni.

Timbale of Macaroni.

Macaront en Timbale ¥% Pound of Macaroni or Spaghetti. 1 Head of Edam Cheese.

When you have finished scooping out the cheese do not throw away the head, but keep it to make a Timbale Macaroni. Boil a little over one-quarter of a pound of macaroni, or suffi cient to fill the head, according to the above directions (Botled Macaroni). When boiled, drain very thoroughly and set in a dish. Take about half a pint of the liquor in which the macaroni was boiled, strain it and set it back on the stove; add the flour and butter blended, and threequarters of the grated cheese, and let it boil five minutes. Then pour this sauce over the macaront in the dish and mix well, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste. Fill the head with this mixture, and sprinkle on top the rest of the grated cheese. Set in the stove to bake, and, when nicely browned, serve hot from the shell of “the cheese. The macaroni may also be baked in molds but this is not to be compared to the Timbale when made in the empty cheese head. This is a genuine Timbale of Macaroni, and the only way to really make the dish. Macaroni or Spaghetti With Daube. Daube au Macaroni, ou au Spaghetti A Veal or Beef Daube 1 Pint of Hot Water or Broth. Prepare a daube. (See recipe, “Boeuf & la Mode ou Daube’’). After it has cooked about an hour and a half, and is about two-thirds done, add the macaroni (using between a quarter and a half pound for six persons), cutting the macaroni into lengths of about five inches, to facilitate serving. Let it boil for about three-quarters of an hour in the daube, and if you see that there is not sufficient gravy for it to cook well, add carefully a pint or more of hot water or hot broth, according as the macaroni seems to absorb it after it has been in the pot four or five minutes. Cook until very tender, and on serving place the daube in the center of the dish and heap the macaroni around.

Chicken and macaroni may be prepared in the same way.

Spaghetti may also be cooked in either of these ways, and makes a more delicate dish.

Macaroni Balls.

Boulettes de Macaront of Cold Boiled Macaroni.

oiling Milk. 1 Tablespoonful 2 Tablespoonfuls Flour.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Cheese. Put the butter into a saucepan, and as it melts add the flour; do not let it brown. Add the cup of boiling milk and stir well. When it begins to thicken add the grated cheese, and let it simmer for a few minutes longer; then take from the fire and add the beaten yolks of four eggs. Have the macaroni cut into tiny bits and work it well into this mixture. Then set it aside to cool. When cold, take a little flour, rub it on your hands, and form the macaroni into small balls about two inches in length and one in thickness. Dip the balls into a well-beaten egg, and then roll them in grated cracker crumbs. Fry in boiling lard, and serve hot. 1 Cu 1 Cup

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CHAPTER XXVII Du Fromage Cheese is one of the most nutritious of all food substances, being not only substantial, but especially rich in nitrogenous matter. Among scientists it ranks very high as an article of food. The Creoles hold that cheese is a good aid to digestion, and if it is simply the Gruyére cheese or the plain “Fromage a l’Americain,” you will always see it passed around as a proper finish to a meal just before the coffee is brought in.

So much for the cheese in its natural state. In cooking, the Creoles use some very delightful forms, chief among which is that old French preparation known as Cheese Ramekins.

Ramequins de Fromage 6 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Cheese. 1% Gills of Milk.

2 Ounces of Bread % Tablespoonful of Prepared Mustard. Cayenne and Salt to Taste. Put the milk on to boil, and add the bread, which you will have minced fine. Stir the milk and bread until very smooth, and then add the butter, stirring well, and finally the grated cheese. Stir this for five minutes, letting it boil, then take it off the fire and add the beaten yolks of three eggs. Have the whites ready, beaten to a stiff froth, and stir them in very gently. Season to taste. Grease a baking dish with butter and pour the mixture into the dish, set in a quick oven, and let it bake for a quarter of an hour. Serve hot. Toasted Cheese.

Fromage sur Canapés % Pound of Cheese. 6 Slices of Bread. Toast the bread nicely and butter it. Cut the cheese into very thin slices and hold to the fire, letting it toast nicely, first on one side and then on the other. Lay this upon the buttered toast and serve hot. This is a very nice‘delicacy for breakfast, or for an evening in winter when seated around the home fire.

Cheese Souffié, Boufié de Fromage Pound of Grated Cheese.

1 Gill of Fresh Cream or Milk. 3 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Flour. 1 Pinch of Grated Nutmeg.

1 Pinch Cayenne. Salt to Taste. Grate the cheese very fine and then add to it the boiling milk; add gradually the pepper, Cayenne and salt. Then add the butter.and flour, rubbed well together. When the cheese is well dissolved, take it off the fire, add the nutmeg, the beaten yolks of three eggs and the whites of two eggs beaten to a froth; stir the whole well. Place all in a shallow earthen dish, add a little butter that has been well melted and put it in the stove for a few minutes till it begins to harden well; then take out and spread on it the white of one egg, beaten to a stiff froth. Set tn the stove one minute, let it brown slightly and serve immediately.

Checse Straws.

Pailles de Fromage 1 Cup of Grated Parmesan or Gruyére 1 Cup Flour. 1 Tablespoonful Butter.. Yolk_of an Egg.

Blend the flour and cheese together and add at the same time the salt and cayenne; then moisten with a well-beaten egg and one tablespoonful of melted butter, and work all gently into a paste. Roll out on a biscuit board into thin strips of not more than an eighth of an inch in thickness, and cut into pieces four inches long and about one-eighth of

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rr an inch wide. Place these on buttered sheets of paper and bake in a very hot oven until a light brown. It is very pretty to make little rings of some of the strips and pass the others through them in little bundles like gathered bound bits of straw. This is a dainty dish.

Cheese Toasts.

Fromage Fondu sur Canapés. 2 Cups of Grated Cheese (Very Rich). % Cup of Milk. The Yolks of 2 Eggs. Toast the bread neatly in square slices and cut off the crusts. Butter nicely while very hot and then plunge them into a bowl of boiling milk. Placc them on a heated dish and stand in the oven to keep hot while you proceed to make the ‘“Fondu.” Have a porcelain-lined saucepan; and set a half cup of milk in it over a moderate fire; when it is boiling hot add the cheese which has been finely grated; stir unceasingly till the cheese melts, and then add the salt, Cayenne and the yolks of the eggs and pour over the toasted bread. Serve hot. In making this “Délicatésse,”” the cheese must be very rich or it will be tough and stringy, because poor cheese will not melt. Cheese Fondu.

Fromage Fondu 1 Cup of Grated Parmesan or Gruyére 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sifted Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 3 Eggs. 33 Cup of Fresh Milk or Cream. A Pinch of Grated Nutmeg.

Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, blending together without allowing it to brown. Add immediately the boiling milk, and let it boil for two minutes. Then remove from the fire and stir in the yolks of three eggs, well beaten; then salt, pepper, nutmeg and the _ grated cheese. Mix all thoroughly. Have ready a small pudding dish, or, better still, several small souffié dishes. Butter these well. Have the whites beat them into the mixture and fill the dishes about two-thirds full. Then bake in a moderate oven for about twenty-five minutes. Serve immediately or the mixture which has risen to the top of the dishes will fall. Checse Biscuits.

. Biscuits de Fromage ¥% Pound of Butter. % Pound of Flour. & Ounces of Grated Swiss Cheese.... % Tablespoonful of Mustard. Yolks of 2 Eggs. A Dash of Cayenne. Beat the butter to a cream; add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten, and mix well. Then add gradually the grated cheese, mustard and Cayenne. Add the flour gradually, beating in thoroughly, and make a stiff dough. Roll it out and.cut into square or round biscuits. Bake in a rather slow oven for twenty minutes and serve. Cream Cheese.

Fromage @ la Créme Cream Cheese is always made from clabbered milk. The Creoles place this clabber in a long bag of muslin and put to drain, the bag being tied tightly and hung out over night in a cool place. When ready for use, the cheese is taken out and beaten till light. It is then placed in perforated molds, and when the time comes for serving, it is slipped from the molds, placed in a dish, and sweet cream is poured over it. It is eaten with sugar or salt, more generally sugar. Frozen cream cheese is a very delNcious summer dish with the Creoles. Some persons, after skimming the cream from the sour milk, stand the pan on the back of the stove, and scald the clabber with about three quarts of boiling water before putting in the bag to drain. Again some use only the perforated tins, instead of the muslin bag, but the best results are obtained by the former method. Cream cheese corresponds to the German “Schmier Kase.”

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CHAPTER XXVIII Canapés No book on Creole cookery would be complete without reference to the delightful “Canapés” that are so extensively used at breakfasts, luncheons, dinners or suppers. ‘“Canapé” is a French term, meaning literally a “couch” or “bed.” In the culinary sense it is used as a bed on which to rest savory foods. Usually the Canapé is in the form of sliced bread, or toast, or crackers, covered with finely minced meats, pastes, etc., all handsomely decorated. It.is a term that is also applied to the ordinary “Sandwich.”

Anchovy Canapés.

Canapés d’Anchois 6 Slices of Dry Toast.

1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter. 2 Dozen Anchovies.

First prepare the Anchovy Butter by adding to one.ounce of good regular butter one teaspoonful of Anchovy Essence. Mix well and set on ice till ready to use.

Prepare six slices of bread, slicing them about one-half an inch thick and toasting to a golden brown. Trim the edges nicely and spread over each a little Anchovy Butter, and then cover each with four Anchovies cut in halves or pounded to a paste, according to taste. Place the toasts on a tin baking sheet in an oven for one minute, and then arrange neatly on a folded napkin on a dish and serve. Anchovy Canapés With Hard-Boiled Canapés d’Anchois aur Ocufe Durs 1 Dozen Anchovles.

*1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter Prepare six slices of French toast (see recipe), spread over each a little Anchovy Butter, and then spread over this buttered toast the Anchovies and hard-boiled eggs, which have been finely minced and mixed together. Place on a folded napkin in a dish Anchovy Canapés, Creole Style. Canapés d’Anchois @ la Créole 1 Doezn Anchovies. 1 Ounce of Grated Ham.

G6 Gherkins. % a Truffle.

1 Tablespoonful of Salad Oil 1 Teaspoonful of Cape Vinegar. 1 Ounce of Aspic Jelly.

Prepare the French toasts (see recipe); trim the edges neatly. Chop the Anchovies very fine and mix with the ounce of grated boiled ham, and the truffle and gherkins, all minced very fine; moisten this with the salad oil and vinegar, which have been well mixed. Spread over the toast and garnish nicely with the aspic jelly. and place on a folded napkin and serve. The Anchovy preparation may also be used to fill very small patty cases; in this case, serve with a garnish of delicate pieces of toast and Aspic Jelly.

Anchovy Canapés With Gruyere Canapés d’Anchots au Fromage de Gruyere 2 Ounces of Gruyére Cheese. 16 Anchovies.

6 Minced Gherkins. 1 Ounce of Anchovy Prepare some French toast (see recipe); pound the Anchovies to a paste with the Gruyére cheese; line very shallow gem pans with a pie paste. (See recipe.) When baked, set to cool, and then fill in with the Anchovy preparation.. Next invert them on circles of nicely buttered Anchovy toast; garnish with some minced gherkins and serve.

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Cracker Anchovy Canapés.

Canapés d’Anchois aus Biscuite 1 Dozen Soda Crackers or Butter Crackers.

2 Dozen Anchovies.

1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter. Cut the Anchovies into halves. Butter one side of six crackers with the/Anchovy butter; lay on this four Anchovies sliced in half; cover each with a cracker; place on a folded napkin on a dish and serve. A very pretty conceit at luncheons is to tie the crackers across and around with narrow green ribbon, making a delicate knot in the center.

Swiss Canapés.

Canapés @ la Suisee 1 Ounce of Anchovy Butter. 3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 6 Stuffed Olives. 3 Minced Green Gherkins.

Prepare the French toast, and cut six delicate pieces into the shape of a triangle. Spread these with Anchovy butter; decorate along one side with the whites of the eggs, finely minced; along the second triangular edge with the minced yolks of the eggs and on the third with the minced green gherkins. Place a stuffed olive (see recipe) in the center, and arrange nicely on a folded napkin on a dish and serve.

Crab Canapés.

Canapés de Crabes, ou Canapés Lorenzo 6 Sces of Toast 8 Hard-Shelled Crabs, 1 Ounce of Butter.

1 Small Onion.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Flour.

1 Gill of Broth or Water.

2 Ounces of Grated Parmesan Cheese. 2 Ounces of Grated Swiss Cheese. For this recipe first prepare the “Deviled Crabs” as follows: Boil the crabs. (See recipe Boiled Crabs.) Then pick out all the meat from the claws and bodies, and season nicely with salt and pepper. Put one ounce of butter into the saucepan, and add a finely minced onion; let this cook on a slow fire for two minutes, but by no means allow either butter or onion to brown. Add a tablespoonful of flour, and stir constantly for a minute and a half, and then add a gill of broth or water, if the broth is not convenient. Stir well and let this mixture cook for five minutes, stirring constantly. Now add the crab meat and let it cook for fifteen minutes longer, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. Turn the mixture into a dish and let it cool for about a quarter of an hour. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and add immediately a tablespoonful of flour and blend well; let this cook for three minutes. stirring all the time, and then add two ounces of grated Parmesan and two ounces of grated Swiss cheese. Stir all well together, blending thoroughly, and then turn into a vessel to cool. Cut six slices of bread the full length and width of the loaf, using preferably the “Pan Bread,” or delicate French loaf. Let each slice be about a quarter of an inch thick; neatly trim off all the crust edges and fry the slices in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter till they have reached a golden brown. Then let them cool, draining off all butter. Divide the crab forcemeat and the cheese separately into six equal parts; place a layer of the crab forcemeat onequarter of an inch thick on each slice of toast. Take the six portions of cheese and roll each into a ballshaped form about two inches in diameter, and arrange them on each portion of toast nicely and equally; place in a dish and brown in the oven for five minutes, and send the Canapés to the table hot in the same dish in which they were baked. Caviar Canapés.

Canapés de Cariar % of a Box of Russian Caviar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Cream. Prepare the toast and cut in delicate circles. In the meantime put half the contents of a small box of Russian Caviars into a sautoire or saucepan; add two tablespoonfuls of cream and heat one and a-half minutes on the stove. Be careful to stir constantly. Pour this over the toast; place on a dish on a folded napkin and serve. Again, the circles of toast may be used as a foundation, the edges being spread with Anchovy butter, with an onion ring at the base. Fill this decorated ring with the Caviars, place on a folded napkin on a dish and serve,

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Canapés Hunters’ Style.

Canapés @ la Chasseur 1 Cup of Forcemeat of Game (White. eat).

% Cup of Forcemeat of Game (Dark Meat).

Prepare triangular-shaped pieces of toast, butter nicely and spread them with a game forcemeat (Woodcock, Snipe, Reed Birds, etc.). Decorate the edges with a forcemeat of game of different color, for effect, and serve. The wild duck, the meat of which is dark, may be utilized in this garnish. Left-over game also may be thus -nicely enjoyed at luncheon or supper. Chicken Canapés.

Canapés de Volatile 1 Cup of Chicken Forcemeat. Ounce of Butter. 1 Gill of Cream.

The Whites of 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. 2 Ounces of Parmesan Cheese. Prepare a Chicken Forcemeat (see recipe) and then prepare six slices of toast, cut square or in circles. Add an ounce of butter and one gill of cream to the chicken forcemeat; work well together, and then set to cool. Spread the toast lightly with butter, and spread over each slice a portion of the chicken forcemeat a quarter of an inch thick; sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese, set in the oven and bake for five minutes, and then decorate in the center with delicately cut pieces of the whites of hard-boiled eggs and serve, Canapés of Chicken Livers. Canapés de Fotes de Volatlle 1 Dozen Chicken Livers. 1 Onion. Dash of Anchovy Essence.

Salt and Red Pepper to Taste. Pimentos and Red Chili to Garnish. Sauté the Chicken Livers (see recipe) with a finely minced onion till tender; then pound them to a paste, adding first a dash of Anchovy Essence, one tablespoonful of butter, salt and red pepper to taste. Cut the bread the full width of the loaf and trim the edges nicely; then fry in butter to a golden brown; take out and drain, place them in the dish in which they are to be served, and very neatly pile up the chicken liver preparation in pyramidal shape on top of the toast; smooth nicely all around with a knife and set in the 1 Ounce of oven for two or three minutes; then decorate the edges of the bread with slices of Pimentos and rings of Red Chilis and serve hot.

Creole Canapés.

Canapés @ la Créole Cup of Grated or Minced Boiled Ham 1 Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 1 Peeled Tomato. 1 Minced Green 6 Slices of Buttered Toast. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Ounces of Parmesan Cheese.

Grate and mince only the lean portion of ham till you have a cupful. Put this in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter, and add the finely minced onion and garlic. Let this cook for three minutes, and then add the finely-cut tomato and munced green pepper. Season to taste with salt and pepper; add a dash of Cayenne, let the mixture stew down until dry; then spread on strips of buttered toast and dredge with grated Parmesan cheese. Set it in the oven in the dish in which it is to be served and bake for five minutes and send to the table hot.

Cheese Canapés.

Canapés de Fromage 6 Slices of Swiss Cheese.

1 Gill of Sauce Piquante.

Take six slices of bread cut the whole width of the loaf, one-half inch in thickness, and hollow out one-half of the inner portion. Toast this nicely and spray the inner part with Piquante Sauce. (See recipe.) Have ready six slices of toasted or baked Swiss cheese; fit a slice into each cavity in the sliced toast; set in the oven for a few minutes and serve very hot. Codfish Canapés.

Canapée de Cabillaud ou de Morue 1 Cup_of Boiled Salt Codfish 1 Green Pepper. 3 Young Onions. 1 Teaspoonful of Taragon Vinegar. Capers to Garnish.

Boil the Codfish (see recipe), or utilize left-over fish; mince freely and mix thoroughly with the minced green peppers and young onions, and season with one teaspoonful of Tarragon vinegar. Spread on triangularshaped pieces of toast placed on a dish on a folded napkin. Decorate nicely with capers and serve.

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Ham Canapés.

Canapés de Jambon 6 Slices of Lean Ham.

1 Tablespoonful of French Mustard. 1 Gill of Cold White Sauce. 1 Boiled Onion.

1 Cooked Garlic.

2 Ounces of Grated Parmesan Cheese. Prepare the toast nicely, cutting the slices the full width of the bread, paring the edges nicely and toasting and buttering well. Lay on each piece of toast a thin slice of very lean ham, which has been lightly spread with French mustard. Spread lightly over this a cold White Sauce (see recipe White Sauce, Sauce Blanche), to which has been added while cooking a finely-minced onion and clove of garlic, and a dash of Parmesan cheese. Dredge the top of the Canapé with Parmesan cheese, then sprinkle lightly with finely-grated bread crumbs. Set in the oven for five minutes, bake slightly and send to the table hot.

Fish Canapés.

Canapés de Potsson 1 Cup of Minced Left-Over Fish. 1 Tablespoonful of French Mustard Dressing, 1 Gilt of Sauce Piquante.

2 Ounces_of Parmesan Cheese. Utilize in this form of Canapé any kind of white-fleshed Fish. Red Fish, Red Snapper, Sheepshead or Trout, etc. Prepare a forcemeat (see recipe) and season with the French Mustard and the Piquante Sauce. Spread a layer one-quarter of an inch thick over delicate strips of toast, dredge with grated Parmesan Cheese, set in the oven, and bake for five minutes and serve hot.

Canapés of Potted Ham.

Canapés de Jambon en Conserve 1 Box of Potted Ham.

2 Ounces of Grated Boiled Ham. Thin Slices of Green Gherkins. Prepare delicate strips of Toast, spread with Potted Ham to a quarter of an inch in thickness, then sprinkle lightly with grated ham and decorate the edges, covering, if desired, with thinly-sliced Green Gherkins. The grated Boiled Ham may be omitted. ’ Indian Canapés.

Canapés @ VIndienne. 1 Box of Potted Ham. 1 Ounce of Chutney.

2 Ounces of Grated Parmesan Cheese. Cut six slices of bread into delicate circles, and fry in butter. Spread first with Potted Ham and then with Chutney. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan Cheese. Set in the oven to brown for five minutes, and serve hot Oyster Canapés.

Canapés d’Huttres 3 Dozen Oysters. 6 Slices of Toast. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Hollandaise Sauce. Parsley Sprigs.

Blanch the oysters (see recipe) and then mince very fine. Mix with two tablespoonfuls of Hollandaise Sauce, and then spread over thin strips of buttered toast. Sprinkle lightly with Parsley, which has been grated so fine as to be almost a dust. Put a bit of butter on top of each Canapé, set in the oven for a few minutes, and send to the table hot. Olive Canapés, Canapés d’Olives 6 Stuffed Olives. 6 Slices of Buttered Toast.

6 Anchovies.

Capers and Minced Olive to Garnish. Prepare the toast and cut into dellicate circles. Place on each circle a coiled Anchovy, putting a Stuffed Olive in the center of the coil. Decorate lightly with Olives and Capers minced very fine, and serve. Again, this Canapé may be prepared by frying the circles of toast in butter, and spreading them with Anchovies pounded to a paste, then decorating the tops with minced Capers or Olives. Canapés of Potted Tongue.

Oanopée de Langue de Boeuf en Conserve 1 Box of Potted Tongue.

Strips of Cooked Pork Tongue. Prepare the toast and cut into delicate circles. Spread with a layer of Potted Tongue one-quarter of an inch in thickness, and decorate with strips of cooked Red Tongue in lattice forms—that is, with strips laid one over the other, like a lattice work.

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Louisiana Canapés.

Canapés @ la Louisianne Two Breasts of Chicken. % of a Red Tongue.

2 Ounces of Grated Lean Boiled Ham. A Dash of Curry Powder.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Thick Veloutée 2 Tablespoonfulg of Grated Parmesan Mince very fine the cooked breasts of the chicken, and cut the ham and longue into small dice shapes; mix well with the chicken, and season with salt and a dash of Cayenne. Add a dash of Curry Powder, and then work the entire forcemeat well with two tablespoonfuls of thick Veloutée Sauce. (See recipe.) Spread the mixture in layers one-quarter of an inch thick on slices of delicate toast in circles, dredge lightly with Parmesan Cheese, set in the oven for five minutes and bake. Send to the table hot.

Sardine Canapés.

Canapés de Sardines 6 Triangular Slices of Toast. 1 Box of Sardines. 3 Hard-Boiled Eggs. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 6 Anchovies. A Dash of Red Pepper.

Pound the sardines and the hardboiled eggs to a paste, season with a dash of Red Pepper and the juice of a lemon and spread the buttered toast with the mixture. Decorate in the center with a coiled Anchovy. Or, CHAPTER XXIX “meat of sausage, simply pound the sardines to a paste, season with a dash of red pepper and the juice of a lemon, and spread on the slices of buttered toast. Spanish Canapés.

Canapés a l’Espagnole 6 Circular Pieces of Buttered Toast. 1 Cup of Finely Minced White Flesh 3 Sweet Pickles.

1 Tablespoonful of Madras Chutney. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Hollandaise Sauce. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Parmesan Cheese. Prepare circular pieces of buttered toast, make a mixture of a cup of any white-flesh fish, the Madras Chutney moistened with the Hollandaise Sauce and minced pickles, all pounded together. Spread this over the toast and dredge with grated Parmesan Cheese. Set in the oven and bake for five minutes.

CANNELONS.

Cannelon is a term applied to peculiar hollow lengths of puff paste or noodle paste, made by taking a piece of piping or tubing and cutting the paste into strips and twining around the tubing or piping. Bake or fry this preparation, remove the tubing and fill in the cannelons with a forcechicken croquettes mixture, preserves, jellies or creams Louisiana is peculiarly favored in having a great number of vegetables that can be grown on her soll. Almost all the sturdier varieties of vegetables and all the more delicate are grown here in abundance. The soil is so rich and fruitful that it has been said that if you simply scatter the seed over the ground, without any effort at cultivation, it would still take root and a good crop would follow. Our climate also admits of two seasons of planting, so that we have both an early spring and an autumn crop; one extending into the summer and verging upon the autumn, the other lasting until late winter and ev«a into the early spring. Consequently, vegetables are always to be found in abundance in our markets.

ARTICHOKES.

Des Artichauts Artichokes are of two kinds: The French or Green Globe Artichokes, which have large scaly heads, like the cones of a pine, and the Jerusa-

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lem Artichokes. The latter are little esteemed by the fastidious, the preference being always given to the former, which is a more delicate and tender variety, and a popular favorite. In Louisiana the Jerusalem Artichoke is cultivated principally for its tubers, which are very valuable for stock and hog feeding, owing to their fattening properties. But, if boiled or made into a purée, these artichokes will be found not only a pleasant, but a@ most nutritious food. French Artichokes may be boiled or stuffed or To, see if a French Artichoke is tender, lift up one of the scales that lie near the body of the vegetable; if it breaks without effort, the vegetable is young; otherwise, the artichoke is old and will be tough and disagreeable to eat.

French Artichokes Boiled.

Artchaute Francais Boutllis 6 Tender Fresh Artichokes. 1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar.

Teaspoonful of Salt. Sauce, according Strip off the coarse outer leaves, or, better still, cut the stalks close with a pair of scissors, and trim the sharp points from the leaves, removing about a quarter of an inch from each. Cut the stalks about an inch! from the bottom. Throw in cold water and wash well, adding a little vinegar to draw out any lurking insects. Have on the stove a pot of boiling water, and add a teaspoonful of salt. Throw in the artichokes and boil gently until it is possible to draw out a leaf easily, or until the outer leaves are tender. Take from the fire and drain upon a dish, placing them upside down, so that the water may all run off. Stand on their stalks in another dish when thoroughly drained, and serve hot with a Drawn Butter Sauce, Sauce & la Maltre d’Hotel or a Sauce a la Hollandaise.

The time for boiling an artichoke depends entirely on the age and size of the vegetable and requires usually from twenty-five minutes to an hour. Jerusalem Artichokes Boiled. Topinambours Bouillis 6 Jerusalem Artichokes. Sauce A la Maftre d’Hotel or a la Créme Wash the artichokes in cold water, and scrape them. Then throw them into cold water, and let them soak for an hour or so. Take out and drain. Put them in a saucepan; cover with boiling water, and let them boil slowly until tender; watch carefully, as they will easily harden again. Serve with a Sauce a la Mattre @’Hotel or a cream sauce. (SeePurce of Jcrusalem Artichokes. Purée de Topinambours a la Oréme 6 Artichokes. 1Tablespoonful of Butter. Wash and skin the artichokes, and boil until tender in a pint of water. Press them through a colander, and return to the fire in a saucepan in which you have placed a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper. Stir well, and let them simmer for five minutes longer, and serve with a Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) Fried Artichokes.

Artichauts Frits 6 Artichokes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Pluck off the coarse scales of the artichoke, and then throw the vegetable into cold water. Let it stand for an hour. Then drain. Cut the meat into delicate slices, and fry in butter, just as you would ‘potato chips. Serve with Filet of Beef, Veal Sauté, Smothered Chicken, etc. Artichokes Sautés, Artichauts Sautés 6 Fine Tender Artichokes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.

1 Tablespoonful of Vinegar. Any Sauce Take six fine artichokes and cut into quarters. Remove the choke entirely. Trim the leaves neatly and parboil in hot water for five minutes, being careful to add a teaspoonful of salt and a tablespoonful of vinegar to the water. After five minutes remove the artichokes and drain thoroughly. Place in a saucepan or sautire, with -. two good tablespoonfuls of butter. Cover the pan tight and set to cook in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Then: take the artichokes from the pan, place them in a deep dish and serve with a Sauce a la Mattre d'Hotel, a Drawn Butter Sauce, a Hollandaise Sauce, or any sauce desired.

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——_h Artichokes & la Vinaigrette Artichauts @ la Vinaigrette 6 Fine Tender Young Artichokes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 1 Shallot. The Yolk of a Hard-Boiled Egg. Prepare and boil the artichokes as in recipe for French Artichokes Boiled (see recipe). Serve with the following sauce: Take the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, dilute it with two teaspoonfuls of vinegar, blend well, season to taste with salt and pepper; chop the shallot very, very fine, add to the mixture, and then add.gradually three tablespoonfuls of Olive Oil. Mix all together well. Place the artichokes on a folded napkin on a platter, and send to the table with the sauce in a separate dish.

Stuffed Artichokes.

Artichauts Farcis @ la Burigoule 3 Quarts of Boiled Artichokes. 1 Onion, Minced. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. % Can of Mushrooms. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Clean and boil the artichokes according to recipe. (Boiled Artichokes.) When the leaves begin to be tender and it is possible to pull out a leaf without difficulty, take the artichokes off the fire. Pull off a few of the coarse leaves, and then scoop out the artichoke without touching the “fond,” or bottom meat, and without breaking the outer scales or leaves from the sides all around. The artichoke must be apparently whole and undisturbed. Then chop an onion, or, rather, mince it very fine, and mince two cloves of garlic and half.a square inch of ham very, very fine. Take a quarter of a can of mushrooms and mince them fine. Mix all this together as a stuffing, and season well with salt, pepper and Cayenne. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan, and fry the dressing in it for about five or ten minutes. Now, stuff each artichoke in the scooped out center, beginning just above the heart or “fond”. Pour over each a spoonful of broth or consommé, or water; sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs; put a dot of butter on each, and set in the oven and bake five mifiutes, till the crumbs are nicely browned. Serve immediately, using, if you wish, a Drawn Butter Sauce, but this is not necessary. (See Beurre a la Maitre d’Hotel.) ASPARAGUS.

Des Asperges Asparagus is a vegetable of very delicate flavor, and is much sought after and highly esteemed by epicures. It is a dainty accompaniment to the most elegant feast. Boiled Asparagus.

Aspergcs cn Branches 1 Can of Asparagus or 2 Bunches of Fresh Asparagus.

% Pint of Hollandaise or 1 Gill of Drawn Butter Sauce.

When it is possible to get fresh asparagus, carefully wash it in cold water, and cut off the tough white ends. Scrape the white part well, and throw it into cold water, to soak for half an hour. Then tie it in small bundles, and put it in a porcelainlined saucepan. Pour boiling water over it and let it cook for twenty minutes. Add a teaspoonful of salt and cook ten minutes longer. Take the asparagus up nicely. Drain off all water. Lay on a folded napkin, and serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce. (See recipe.) Asparagus is generally bought in New Orleans in cans, being very nicely prepared. It requires simply to be set on the stove and allowed to heat in the opened can, set in boiling water, as it is already cooked. Then, drain well and take it out of the can by turning it downward in a dish, letting the asparagus slide gently out. Place on a folded napkin, and serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce. (See recipe.) Asparagus Vinaigrette Sauce. Pointes d’Asperages @ la Sauce Vinaigrette 1 Can of Asparagus. % Pint of Vinaigrette Sauce.

Prepare the asparagus as in the above recipe. Drain and set to cool. Serve with a half pint of Vinaigrette Asparagus Tips With Green Peas. Pointes d’Asperges aug Petit Pois 1 Can of Asparagus or 2 Bunches of Fresh Asparagus.

1 Can of Green Peas or 1 Pint of Fresh spoonfuls of Cream Sauce.

6 or 8 Buttered Crodtons.

Cut the tender parts of the asparagus into pieces about one inch long, Heat the water, in which the aspara-

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gus was first put up, and add the canmed green peas or the fresh peas that have already been boiled. Throw in the asparagus tips, and add water sufficient to cover. Boil rapidly for ten minutes; then drain very thoroughly and return to the fire, having added one tablespoonful of butter, salt, pepper and six tablespoonfuls of Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) Stir carefully, so that you may not break the tips, and serve on neat Croftons of buttered toast, or place in a dish and bring piping hot to the table as an entrée. The coarse ends of the asparagus must not be thrown away, but may be utilized in a very nice Cream of Asparagus Soup. (See. BEANS.

Des Haricote Beans, whether white or red, are among the most nutritious of food substances. In all the homes of New Orleans, and in the colleges and convents, several times a week there appears on the table either the nicely cooked dish of Red Beans, usually eaten with rice, or the equally wholesome White Beans & la Créme, or Red or White Beans boiled with a piece of salt pork or ham. String Beans & la Sauce Maltre d’Hotel, or boiled with a piece of salt pork or ham, are also classed among the especially nutritious beans. The Creoles believe that boys and girls who are raised on beans and rice and beef will be among the strongest an sturdiest of people..

String Beans With Butter Sauce. Haricots Verte @ la Mattre d’Hotel 2 Quarta of Fresh, Tender String Beans. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Salt and Always select tender beans. Break the blossom end, and pull it backward, removing the string. Then be careful to pare the thin strip from the other end of the bean pod. It is only in this way that you will be sure that every inch of string is removed. Split the larger beans down the pod, letting the younger and tender ones remain whole. Wash them in clear, cold water, letting them stand about ten minutes. Then drain off the water, put the beans into a saucepan, cover well with boiling water, and let them cook for forty minutes or an hour, according to the tenderness of the beans. Just before serving drain off water, put a large tablespoonful of butter into the beans, mix well, salt and pepper to taste, String Beans With Cream Sauce. Hartcota Verts @ la Creme 2 Quarts of Fresh String Beans. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter.

1 Tablespoonful of Flour. % Cup of Fresh Milk or Cream.

String and wash the beans according to the first recipe. Place in a saucepan and cover with boiling water. Let them boil for an hour. Then drain off the water. Take a tablespoonful of butter and one of flour, and blend well. Add a half cup of fresh milk or cream, or onehalf pint of the water tn which the beans have been boiled. Season nicely with salt and pepper. Stir in the beans; set them back on the stove for several minutes; let them simmer gently. Season again with salt and pepper to taste, and serve hot. The flour may be omitted, and, the milk diluted instead with the yolks of two eggs, only there must be no boiling after the eggs are added. String Beans & la Vinaigrette. Haricota Verte a la Vinuigrette 2 Quarts of String Beans.

A Sauce a la Vinaigrette.

Boil the string beans according to recipe. (See recipe String Beans with Butter Sauce.) When done, drain and serve with a Vinaigrette Sauce. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon dipped in parsley, which has been chopped very fine, and small gherkins cut in fan shapes.

String Beans, Brittany Style. Haricots Verts 2 la Bretonne 2 Quarts of Fresh String Beans. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour.

1 Pint of Chicken Consommé or Water. 1_Medium-Sized Onion.

Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Salt and Take a medium-sized onion, peel and cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Put the onion in a saucepan with the butter and let it sauté to a golden brown. Add the flour gradually,

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blending well, and moisten with the consommé or water. let the mixture come to a boil and skim the broth; then add the string beans, which have already been boiled and drained. Let them simmer for ten minutes, adding in the meantime one finely-minced clove of garlic. After ten minutes place the beans in a hot dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve immediately.

String Beans a la Poulette. Haricots Verta @ la Poulette 2 Quarts of String Beans.

‘ A Sauce A la Poulette.

Boil the beans as in the recipe for String Beans with Drawn Butter Sauce. Drain and serve with a Sauce a la Poulette poured over them. String Beans Boiled With Ham. Haricots Verts au Jambon 2 Quarts of String Beans.

1 Pound of Lean Ham or Salt Pork. Proceed to prepare the beans in exactly the same manner as mentioned above. Throw them into cold water, and let them stand for about ten minutes. Have ready a large saucepan of boiling water in which there has been boiled for almost one hour a pound of salt pork or ham. Drain the beans, put them into this, and let them boil forty minutes or an hour longer. Season with pepper only, and serve, placing the salt pork or ham in the center of the dish, and heaping the beans around. This is an excellent way of utilizing the ham bone which is left over from the boiled ham. The Creoles like the flavoring of ham or salt pork in vegetables. A bit of fine herbs, nicely minced, and one onion, minced fine, add greatly to the flavor of this dish. String Bean Panachés.

Haricots Verta Panachés 1 Pint of String Beans.

1 Pint of Lima Beans. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter.

Boll the string beans and cut them into pieces of about three-fourths of an inch in length; mix them with: an equal quantity of boiled Lima beans (see recipe); put them in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter; Ict them sauté for five minutes, and toss continually while cooking. Season with salt and pepper to taste, place on a hot dish, sprinkle with finely-chopped parsley and serve hot. RED BEANS.

Haricots Rouges Red Beans are great favorites among Creole families, the large amount of sustenance to be found in them and the White Bean commending them especially as food for growing children and adults who labor hard. The beautiful color and excellent flavor of the Red Bean especially has won for it a place among the most highly esteemed vegetables. Red Beans, Plain Boiled.

Haricots Rouges au Naturet 1 Pint of Dried Red Beans, % Spoonful of Lard or Butter. This is an excellent way of preparing Red Beans for Fridays and fast days. Soak the beans in cold water over night, or at least five or six hours, and drain off the water, using at least a quart of water to a pint of beans. Let them boil for at least an hour and a half or two hours, and then season nicely with salt and pepper. Add a half tablespoonful of lard or butter, let them cook for fifteen minutes more, and serve them in their own juice. This dish is excellent with boiled rice.

Red Beans, Burgundy Style Haricots Rouges @ la Bourguignonne 1 Quart of Red Beans.

1 Ounce of Butter. 1 Onion. 2 Cloves. 6 Small Glazed Onions.

Pick and wash the beans and let them soak in cold water for six hours. Drain thoroughly, and put in a saucepan, with sufficient fresh cold water to cover. Add a tablespoonful of butter, and a medium-sized onion, with two cloves stuck in it. Boil for about twenty minutes, Stir well, and let the beans cook for three-quarters of an hour longer, stirring frequently to keep from scorching. Then remove from the fire, take out the herb bouquet and onion, pour the beans into a hot dish, and decorate the edges with a half dozen small glazed onions. (See recipe.) Serve hot.

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Red Beans & la Condé.

Purge @ la Condé See recipe under heading “Soups.” This is a most nutritious dish. Red Beans and Rice.

Haricote Rouges au Riz 1 Quart of Dried Red Beans. 1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Pound of Ham or Salt Meat. Wash the beans and soak them over night, or at least five or six hours, in fresh, cold water. When ready to cook, drain off this water and cover the beans very deep with ‘at least two quarts of cold water, for beans must cook thoroughly. Let the water heat slowly. Then add the ham or salt pork, and the herbs and onion and carrot, minced fine. Boil the beans at least two hours, or until tender enough to mash easily under pressure. When tender, remove from the pot, put the salt meat or ham on top of the dish, and serve hot as a vegetable, with boiled rice as an entrée, with Veal Sauté, Daube a la Mode, Grillades & la Sauce, etc. Purée of Red Beans.

Purée d’Haricots Rouges 1 Quart of Dried Red_ Beans. 1 Carrot. 1 Onion. 1 Bay Leaf. % Pound of Ham or Lean Salt Pork. % Pint of Cream or Milk.

Prepare the beans as in the preceding recipe i. it is desired to make a purée (not a soup.) Remove the beans from the flre as soon as they will mash very easily under pressure. Take out the bits of ham. Press the beans through a colander. Add a tablespoonful of butter as you return them to the pot in which they have been boiled, and a half pint of cream or milk, or sufficient according to quantity to make the purée of the consistency of thick starch or mashed potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, and serve.

Bacon and Beans Creole Style. Haricots au Petit Salé @ la Créolc 1 Quart of Dried Red Beans. 1 Pound of Bacon.

Soak the beans over night. Drain off all water. Place in a pot and cover well with. cold water in the proportion already mentioned. Add the bacon, leaving it in a single square piece. When both have boiled about two hours, season well with pepper and a little salt, if necessary, and place the bacon in the center of a baking dish. Drain the beans and put them around the bacon. Fill the pan to the top with liquor in which the beans have been boiled, and bake one hour and a half, or until the liquor is nearly all absorbed. Then serve hot. White beans may also be cooked in this fashion.

Bean Polenta.

Polenta d’Haricots 2 Cups of Dried Beans.

1 Tablespoonfyl! of Molasses. % Tablespoonful of Mustard.

spoonful of Vinegar.

Juice of 1 Lemon. Salt and Pepper to Use either white or red beans. Wash two cupfuls of dried beans, having previously soaked them over night. Pour off the water. Put the beans in the stew-pan and cover with fresh cold water, and cook them until very tender. Pour into a colander and press the beans through. Put this pulp into the stewpan, and add one tablespoonful of ready-made mustard, one tablespoonful of molasses, one of butter, one of vinegar, the juice of an onion, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve very hot, as a vegetable.

WHITE BEANS.

Des Haricots Blancs White Beans may be prepared in exactly the same manner as Red Beans, using any of the above recipes. By many the White Bean Is preferred for its greater delicacy. White Beans 4 la Maitre d’Hotel Hartcote Blancs @ la Maitre d’Hotel 1 Quart of White Beans.

2 Sprigs of Minced Thyme and Parsley. Sauce A la Maitre d’Hotel. Prepare the White Beans and cook in exactly the same manner as Red Beans & la Maftre d’Hotel. Before adding the butter, however, add a minced sprig of thyme, bay leaf and parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. Let them simmer for a few minutes and then take them off the fire and add the juice of a lemon,

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_—_—_—_—_— — Cl __ _—_ rr DRIED PEAS.

Des Pote Sece All dried peas, whether Black-eyed Peas, Lady Peas, or any other variety, may be cooked according to any of the above recipes. Be careful always to soak them over night in cold water, or at least six hours if in the early morning, before beginning to cook them.

COWPEAS.

Pois Congrie These peas are utilized by the Creoles in making that famous dish, “Jambalaya au Congri.” (See recipe under heading “Louisiana Rice.") On Fridays the rice and peas, which are always boiled separately, must not be cooked with meat, if this day is kept as a fast day. The peas and rice are simply mixed well together and eaten with butter.

BUTTERBEANS.

Feves Plates 1 Pint of Butterbeans, 2 Pints of Water. 1 Tablespoonful (Heaping) of Butter. The Butterbean is one of the most delicate of our Louisiana vegetables. Soak the Butterbeans for about a half hour in water. Pour off this cold fresh water, and then put them in a porcelain-lined saucepan, or one of agate, and cover with two pints of water. Let them boil well for about an hour, or less, if they are very tender. As soon.as they crush easily under pressure take off the fire, drain them well and season with salt and ‘pepper. Top them off with a heaping tablespoonful of butter and a teaspoonful of parsley, minced very fine, LIMA BEANS.

Haricots de Lima.

1 Pint of Lima Beans. 3 Pints of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Pint of Soak the Lima Beans over night. Drain off the water, put them in a porcelain or agate saucepan, and cover with three pints of boiling water. Boil.them until very tender, which will require at least two hours. After they have boiled one hour, add a teaspoonful of salt, or salt to taste. When done, drain the beans and return to the saucepan. Add a half pint of cream or milk, a tablespoonful of flour, blended well with butter, salt and pepper to taste, a sprig each of thyme and parsley and bay leaf minced very fine. Let all simmer for ten minutes, and then serve hot. Or the beans may be served without the cream, simply buttering well and adding salt and Pepper to taste. All shelled beans. such as the Kidney and the small French bean, may be cooked in the same way.

Bean Croquettes.

Haricots en Croguettes 1 Pint of Beans. 1 Tablespoonful of Any left-over beans may be most palatably utilized in this way. Mash the beans well by pressing through a colander. Then add salt and pepper to taste, a teaspoonful of vinegar, and a tablespoonful of melted butter. Form into small boulettes, or balls, and dip in a raw egg, well beaten, and then roll in bread crumbs. Fry them in boiling fat, and serve hot. BEETS.

Des Betteraves ‘We have in New Orleans two crops of beets, the winter and the summer variety. Summer beets require less time to boil than the winter. Good judgment must always be the guide. Beets may be kept several days when boiled, and make a beautiful The small winter beets may be served aux Beurre Mattre d’Hotel, or they may be sautéd in butter or served Sautées a la Créme or A la Béchamel. Beet roots are generally served as a salad or garnish. Always cut off and save the green tops of the beets. These may be boiled with salt meat, or made into a@ purée, or used in the famous Creole Gumbo aux Herbes.

Boiled Beets.

Betteraves Bouillies.

6 Beet Roots.

A Plain ‘prenehe Drecsing Uforvat ‘ae a Cut off the beet tops and save for boiling or purée or gumbo. Soak the beets in cold fresh water, and wash well, taking off every particle of

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el earth that may adhere. However, do this without scraping them. If the beets are very tender, they will cook in an hour. Older beets require all the way from three to four hours according to size. If the beet is wilted or tough, no amount of boiling will ever make it perfectly tender. If you break the skins of the beets before cooking, the flavor as well as the color will be lost when boiled. Put the beets into a pot of cold water, covering well, and boil until tender. Then set them to cool. When cold, slice them nicely, sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, and add vinegar, setting them aside for an hour, for the vinegar to penetrate thoroughly. Serve as a salad.

Buttered Beets.

Betteraves au Beurre 6 Beet Roots. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. The small winter beets may be served aux Beurre Maltre d’Hotel, by cooking them till very tender and then slicing them and. pouring over them a tablespoonful of melted butter, and sprinkling nicely with salt and pepper. Vinegar may also be added at the table if desired.

Beet Roots Sautéd in Butter. Bettcraves Sautéce au Beurre 6 Beets. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. A Pinch of Black Pepper.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Boil the beet roots as in recipe for Boiled Beets. (See recipe.) When cooked, peel neatly and cut up into dice-shaped pieces. Put them in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter, season with a little pinch of black pepper and salt to taste, and sprinkle the powdered sugar over them. Let them cook for five minutes, tossing them lightly and almost constantly. Send to the table hot, as a vegetable. Beet Roots Sautéd @ la Béchamel ou & la Créme.

Betteraves Sautécs @ 1a Béchamel ou 2 la Créme 6 Beet Roots. 1 Ounce of Butter. % Pint of Béchamel or Cream Sauce. Prepare the beets exactly as in the preceding recipe, and about five minutes before serving add half a pint of hot Béchamel or Cream Sauce. Serve as a vegetable.

Borecole or Curled Kale.

Ohou Vert This is a vegetable cultivated by Louisiana truck farmers principally for family use. It requires frost to make it good for the table. It is treated and served in the same manner as cabbage; all recipes for cooking cabbage may, therefore, be used in preparing Chou Vert.

BROCCOLI.

Chou Broccolt Broccoli is a vegetable of the same order as the Cauliflower, and resembles it very much, only the plant does not form such compact heads, and is not quite so white, being of a greenish cast. It is prepared and served in all ways in which Cauliflower is served. (See recipes for Cauliflower.) BRUSSELS SPROUTS.

Chouz de Bruzelles 1 Quart of Brussels Sprouts. % Gallon of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Salt.

Pick the sprouts carefully, rejecting all loose, dead leaves, and then throw the sprouts into cold fresh water, so that any lurking insects may be drawn out. Wash and pick carefully after the sprouts have remained about twenty minutes in the water. Then put them into half a gallon of boiling water, and add immediately a tablespoonful of salt and @ quarter of a spoon of bicarbonate of soda (cooking soda.) Let the sprouts boil (uncovered) for twenty minutes, or just long enough to make them tender all through. By no means must they be soft, or go to pieces. Boil rapidly. Then drain in @ colander, season well with pepper and salt, and serve in a heated dish with a Drawn Butter Sauce poured over them. (See sauces.) Brussels Sprouts Sautéd in Butter. Ohoun de Brucelles Sautés au Beurre 1 Quart of Brussels Sprouts. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter, 1 Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley.

Prepare the Brussels Sprouts carefully as in the preceding recipe. After washing, drain thoroughly and boil them in salted water for ten minutes. Drain them and put them into cold water. Drain again and put

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them in a saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of butter. Season according to taste with salt and pepper, and add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Let them cook slightly for ten minutes more, or less if very tender, and serve hot.

Brussels Sprouts a la Créme. Chouz de Brussels @ la Créme 1 Quart of Brussels Sprouts. ¥% Cupful of Cream or Milk. A Pinch of Nutmeg.

Prepare and boil the Brussels Sprouts as in the preceding recipe. Drain thoroughly, and put in a saucepan, with two tablespoonfuls of butter, and season with salt and pepper to taste, and a pinch of nutmeg. Add a half cup of cream or milk, and toss lightly for five or ten minutes, but do not Jet them boil. Place on a hot dish, garnish nicely and serve hot. Du Chou Cabbage is said to be the most nutritlous of all vegetables. It enters largely into the daily life of every Creole. We have two crops of cabbage in New Orleans, the summer and winter. It is said that when cabbage is cooking the odor fills the house. But the Creoles overcome this by using a very large pot, dropping in a bit of charcoal and not filling it too near the brim, as the old darkies say it is the boiling water that forms into steam and causes the odor when boiling cabbage. Again, a piece of bread is tied in a very fine and thin piece of white cloth and is put in the pot for about twenty minutes when it is removed and burned, for the odor of cabbage has clung to it. The process is repeated with a fresh piece of cloth and bread three times or more.

Boiled Cabbage.

Chou Bouillt A Fine Head of Green and White 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Red Pepper ‘od, 1 Teaspoonful of Chill Pepper. For boiling, select a fine head in which the green and white are prettily mingled. The white makes the daintiest dish. Remove all the outside leaves and reject them. Then cut the cabbage head into quarters, and let it soak in cold water for about an hour. Then drain well, and pull off each leaf separately to dislodge all lurking insects, and wash the leaves in a pan of fresh water. Drain thoroughly, put them into a large pot of boiling water with a pound of ham or salt pork, and cook them for an hour or more until tender. After they have cooked for ten minutes add a teaspoonful of salt and a red pepper pod, cut in two. Add a teaspoonful of Chili pepper. Cover the cabbage and boil for one hour, if it is very young and tender; boil for two hours or more if it is tough. When done drain well of all water, and place in a dish with the salt meat or ham on top, and serve hot. The Creoles serve boiled cabbage with a homemade pepper vinegar.

Cabbage and Corned Beef.

Chou et Bocuf au Mi-sel 1 Fine Head of Cabbage. 1 Pound of Corn Beef.

1 Red Pepper Pod.

1 Teaspoonful of Chili Pepper. To boil corned beef and cabbage, wash the meat in cold water and put it in a large kettle; cover with cold water. Let it simmer gently for two hours. Then add the cabbage, which you will have prepared according to directions in the above recipe, and let all boil for two hours longer. When done, put the cabbage in a dish, with the meat in the ‘center, and serve with tomato catsup or horseradish or mustard sauce. The cabbage may be put in the pot after having been cut in four quarters and soaked, but it is always safer to pick over each leaf, for fear of insects.

Stewed Cabbage.

Chou Etoufé 1 Head of Cabbage. 1 Pound Ham or Salt Pork.

Salt to Taste. Pinch of Red Pepper Pod. Parboil the cabbage after cutting into quarters. Let it boil well about half an hour: Then take it out of the water and drain nicely, separating the leaves down to the heart as it cools. Cut the ham into pieces about two inches long. Put a tablespoonful of lard in a very deep stew-

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renee} ing pan, or a pot. Fut into this the ham or salt meat, and let it fry well. Add two chaurice, or sausages. As these brown well moisten with half a cup of boiling water, and let simmer gently for fifteen minutes. When well browned add, little by little, the cabbage, stirring it well, and let it simmer gently for an hour and a half or longer, covering well, and stirring frequently to prevent burning. Add an inch of red pepper pod, cut fine, and salt to taste if you use ham, and none at all if you use salt meat. Cabbage Stewed With Sausage. Saucissons aux Chour 2 Dozen Fine Sausage. (Chaurice Preferred.) 1 Head of Cabbage.

1 Tablespoonful of Lard. Salt to Taste. 1 Inch of Red Pepper Pod.

1 Pound Fresh Pork.

This is a famous Creole dish, for many generations in vogue in New Orleans, and dearly loved by the little Creole children. Wash the cabbage well after having cut it into quarters and allowed it to soak half an hour. Cut the cabbage into shreds of about one inch in width and five in length, according to the leaf. Then scald the cabbage with boiling water for about fifteen minutes. Throw off this water, and cover it again with boiling water, and let it boil for twenty minutes. In the meanwhile, prick each sausage in several places, and cut the meat into pieces of about two inches in length and one in thickness; put the lard in the frying pan and fry the sausage and meat until they are about half done; then drain the cabbage and put it with the sausage, the meat and the drippings. Cover and stew gently where it will not scorch, for at least forty minutes; season with salt, and add immediately after putting in the cabbage an inch of red pepper pod. Let all simmer, then send it to table with the sausage and the meat piled in the center and the cabbage heaped around as a border.

Creamed Cabbage.

Chou @ la Crime 1 Head of Tender White Cabbage. Take a fine delicate head of white cabbage; cut it in quarters and soak in cold water for an hour. Then remove all the hard parts, and cut the remainder into fine shreds. Put it into the stewing pan and pour over boiling water enough to cover; season with salt and pepper; let it boil at least thirty minutes, and then drain in a colander. Have ready a heated dish; turn the cabbage into this and pour over it a Cream Sauce. (See re‘cipe.) Cabbage Sautéd With Cream. Chou Sauté a la Créme A Fine Head of White Cabbage. 1 Cupful of Cream or Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour.

A Pinch of Black Pepper. Salt to Taste. Prepare the cabbage according to recipe. Blanch in hot water for ten minutes, then drain and throw into cold water. Drain agan, chop until very fine and put into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter; add the salt to taste and the black pepper. Take a tablespoonful of flour and blend well with a little milk, and then add gradually a cup of cream or milk. Add this to the cabbage and mix well, and let all cook for three-quarters of an hour or an hour, till done; arrange neatly on & hot dish and serve. Stuffed Cabbage.

Chou Farct 1 Head of Fine White Cabbage. 1 Dozen Fine Chaurice. 2 Onions. 1 Tomato.

1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Spoonful of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf. Select a fine head of cabbage. Take away the’ big, green leaves, and select about twelve of the finest and nicest of the large white leaves. Put them in cold water for about an hour; then parboil for about twenty minutes in boiling water. In the meantime prepare a stuffing with a dozen fine chaurice, one onion (chopped fine), a tablespoonful of butter and a tomato. Mince the ‘sausage meat very fine after taking out of the cases, and also the onion and tomato. Mince fine one sprig each of thyme, parsley and bay leaf; add one square inch of fincly-minced ham. Put the butter in the frying pan, and as it browns add the onions; let these brown, and add the sausage meat and the ham.

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Mince four or five of the tender white leaves of the cabbage very fine and add; then add the minced clove of garlic and onion; let these brown for five minutes, and then let all simmer for about ten minutes. Drain dry and lay open on the table the cabbage leaves, putting in each leaf an equal quantity of the stuffing; fold over and close nicely. Then lay slender strips of bacon in the bottom of a wide and deep frying pan; place the stuffed leaves on top of these, and place other strips of bacon on top; cover and let them cook for a half hour, or until the cabbage leaves are very tender. Take out of the pan and lay in a heated dish and serve very hot. The Creoles also have a way of making a nice sauce to serve with these. After laying the stuffed cabbage leaves in the frying pan, add one square inch of ham, minced very fine; two carrots, sliced fine; one onion, chopped very fine, and sprigs of thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Moisten with a cup of good bouillon or water, and cover the pan and allow all to simmer well with the cabbage. When just ready to serve, place the cabbage in a heated dish and allow the sauce to reduce for five minutes longer; then strain it through a fine sieve and pour over each stuffed leaf of cabbage as it is served. The stuffed cabbage leaves may also be thrown into boiling water for thirty minutes, after being tied together well, and served with a Cream Stuffed Cabbage With Cream Sauce. Chou Farci @ la Créme 1 Fine Head Cabbage. 1 Dozen Fine Chaurice. 1 Onion.

3 Sprigs Each of Thyme, Parsley and 1 Inch of a Red Pepper Pod. Select a fine tender head of cabbage Pick off the outer leaves, and let it soak in cold fresh water for an hour. Then lect the cabbage remain in a pot of boiling water for about three-quarters of an hour. In the meantime make a stuffing by taking one dozen fine Chaurice, or sausage meat, one onion, and three sprigs each of thyme and parsley, and one bay leaf. Mince the herbs and onion very fine, and add to them one square inch of finely minced ham. Chop the sausage meat once again, mix this with the ham and herbs, and then add the finely minced onion and & small clove of finely minced garlic. Mix these well together. Season to taste. Take the cabbage out of the water, open it carefully to the very heart, and put in a teaspoonful of the dressing. Fold over this two or three leaves, and then put some of the dressing between another layer of leaves, and so continue until each layer of leaves has been nicely stuffed. Press all firmly together, and then tie it in the large leaves, which you have already boiled with the cabbage. Put it into the kettle of boiling water, and add a little salt and two inches of a red pepper pod, thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Let it boil for two hours. When done carefully untie the larger leaves tn which you have cooked the cabbage, and lay the head in a well-heated dish. Pour over all a Cream Sauce, and serve hot. (See Cream Sauce.) SAUERKRAUT.

Ohou-Crofite 1 Fine Head of Cabbage. 1 Quart of 3 Ounces of Salt for Each Layer of To prepare Chou-Crofate, take a large head of cabbage, and remove the green leaves. Shred the cabbage into fine pieces, about five inches long and one inch wide. Then line the bottom and sides of a wooden keg with the. green leaves of the cabbage. Put in a layer of about three ounces of salt, and place on this a layer of cabbage leaves of about three inches in thickness. Cover again-with a layer of salt. and pound down well, and so continue until you have used up the cabbage. Pour over this sufficient vinegar to cover. Wash some boards or the cover of the keg and line them with cabbage leaves, and cover the keg closely. Weight down the keg cover with a fifteen-pound weight, and set it in a place of even moderate temperature. N. B. The keg should have in the bottom a hole stopped up with a plug. When the cabbage begins to ferment (in about five or six days) take the plug out, and let the liquor from the fermentation flow through this canal. After the first operation open the keg and renew the vinegar, skimming the fermenta-

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eS __—_—_____—_—_—_—_—_______—_—_—_—_—_——_._......................................_ eee tion from the top, and so continue until the cabbage is clear and without odor. The Chou-Croate should be placed in a cool place. When ready to use take it out and jet it soak for two to three hours in cool fresh water, and when quite fresh-looking put it into a saucepan and cook as you’ would cabbage, with salt meat, pork, sausage or corned beef.

CAULIFLOWER.

Chouz-Fleur.

Cauliflower may be either boiled and served with various sauces or made into that delightful dish, “‘Cauliflower au Gratin.”

Boiled Cauliflower, Cream Sauce.* Chouz Fleur @ la Crome 2 Medium-Sized Cauliflowers A Cream Sauce. 2 Lemons Cut in Quarters.

To boil the cauliflower, pick off the outer leaves, leaving only the one delicate row near the bottom of the flowerets. Cut the stem very closely, wash the cauliflower with great care in cold fresh water, and then soak, with the head downwards, about twenty minutes, to drain off all possible insects. Have ready a pot of boiling water. Tie the cauliflower in a nice, clean piece of cheesecloth to prevent its breaking while boiling. Put the cauliflower in the kettle of boiling water, with the stem downwards. Add a teaspoonful of salt and cover the kettle. Let the cauliflower boil from thirty to forty minutes, according to size, or until it is all quite tender. When cooked, lift it gently out by the cheesecloth, untie and set it in a dish, stem downward. Pour over it a Cream Sauce and serve hot. Place on each plate, when serving, a quarter of a lemon, nicely cut. Cauliflower Boiled With Butter. Ohou-Fleur Boutllt au Beurre 2 Medium-Sized Cauliflowers. A Tablespoonful of Salt. A Pinch of Prepare the cauliflower as in recipe Boiled Cauliflower, Cream Sauce. After picking and washing carefully put it in a saucepan and cover with cold water. Add the salt and pepper and a tablespoonful of butter. Let it cook for half an hour, then drain through a colander. Place it on a dish and add a sauce made of one tablespoonful of butter, one of vinegar and a dash of salt and pepper, all mixed thoroughly, and serve hot. Cauliflower With Hot Sauce. Chouz-Fleur @ la Sauce Blanche ou au Jus 1 Large or 2 Small Caulifiowers. A Teaspoonful of Sal..

A White Sauce or Sauce Allemande. Separate the cauliflower, piece by Piece, having taken off the outer leaves and cut off the rough stalk. Place the pieces in a pot of boiling water, with a teaspoonful of salt, and let them boil rapidly for about half an hour, till tender. When done, take them out gently with a skimmer, Place them in a bowl and pour a Sauce Blanche or Sauce Allemande over them.

Cauliflower prepared in this manner may be served with a Hollandaise Sauce, Cauliflower @ la Vinaigrette. Chouz-Fleur @ la Vinaigrette 1 Large or 2 Medium-Sized Cauliflowers. Boil the cauliflower as above, and serve “& la Vinaigrette,” that ts, with vinegar, pepper and salt. This is a common and pleasant way that the Creoles have of serving the vegetable. Cauliflower & la Maitre d’Hotel Choug-Fleur @ la Maitre d’Hotcl 1 Large or 2 Medium-Sized Cauliflowers. A Sauce A la Maitre d’Hdtel. Boil the cauliflower whole, as in the first recipe. Bring it to the table whole, like bloming flowerets, in a dish nicely garnished, and serve hot with a Sauce a la Mattre d’Hotel and lemon cut in quarters.

Cauliflower au Gratin.

Ohouz-Fleur au Gratin 1 Ordinary-Sized Head of Cauliflower. % Pint of Grated Parmesan and Gruyére Cheese, Mixed.

spoonful of Flour.

Cook the cauliflower as in the first recipe. When boiled, take it out of Table-

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the cheesecloth in which it was wrapped and let it cool. Put a tablespoonful of butter into the frying pan, and as it melts add a tablespoonful of flour. Let these blend nicely, without browning, and add immediately half a pint of milk and half a pint of grated Parmesan or Gruytre cheese. Mix this thoroughly in the sauce, and let it cook well for about ten minutes. Put the cauliflower in a pan, or the dish in which it is to be served, having greased the dish with butter, Sprinkle some grated cheese all over the cauliflower, and then cover the cauliflower with the sauce, forcing it down into every nook and crevice. When these crevices are full, and the cauliflower seems to have absorbed all it can, wipe the edges of the dish with a napkin. Then add grated bread crumbs, sprinkling them over the cauliflower; dot it in about a dozen places with little bits of butter. Set it in the oven, let it brown, and serve hot. Let it bake about twenty minutes, or until brown. CARROTS.

Des Carottes Carrots are among the most important of the vegetables used in seasoning. They enter largely into the making of soups, daubes, stews, etc., giving a delightful flavor, which is found in no other vegetable. Eaten “au jus” or in their natural state, they may be stewed, fried or smothered. Any one of these dishes makes a delightful and appetizing entrée. Stewed Carrots.

Carottes @ la Créme 4 Carrots of Good Size.

ful Flour, % Pint of Milk. Scrape the carrots and throw them into cold water for about a quarter of an hour. Then put them in a saucepan, and cover with boiling water. Add the salt, and let them cook for an hour and a half, bofling steadily. Drain off all water, then cut neatly into one-half inch dice pieces, or slice thin. Put a tablespoonful of butter in the frying pan, and add the flour, blending well, but without browning. Then add the milk, letting it cook down to a rich cream sauce, Add the carrots to this, and ‘ let them simmer gently for about twenty minutes. Then add a little chopped parsley and sugar, and serve hot.

Carrots & la Maitre d’Hotel. Carottes @ la Mattre d’Hétel 4 Good-Sized Carrots.

Scrape the carrots and boil them economically while you are making soup or _ bouillon, leaving them whole. When done and ready to serve, skim out of the soup, and place in a dish. Cut them into pieces, long or round, and then place them in a hot frying pan with a tablespoonful of butter, minced parsley, thyme, bay leaf. Add salt and pepper to taste, and when they have cooked for about ten or fifteen minutes pour over them a Sauce & la Maftre d’Hotel, and serve hot. The carrots may also be simply boiled, seasoned, and served with a Drawn Butter Sauce.

Carrots @ la Lyonnaise Carottcs @ la Lyonnaise 3 Carrots. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Onion, Minced Very Fine. Salt, Pepper, Thyme and Bay Leaf. Boil the carrots according to recipe given above, and then cut into thin slices. Fry an onion in butter, add the carrots. Sprinkle well with salt and pepper, and add minced thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Fry ten minutes, and serve hot.

Boiled Carrots, Creole Style. Carottes Sautées a la Créole 9 Nice Tender Carrots, 1 Tomato. 1 Square Inch Ham. 1 Tablespoonful 6 Fine Chaurice or Sausages. 3 Shallots. 1 Onion: % Pint Bouillon. Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf. % Clove Boil the carrots for one hour and a half. Then cut into dice or nice slices. Put the butter in the saucepan, and add the onions, minced very fine, and the shallots, greens and whites. Let these brown for a few minutes, and then add the lean square inch of ham and three Chaurice whole. Let these simmer for three minutes, and add the minced herbs. Then add the to-

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mato and its juice, mincing it well. Let all simmer for three minutes more, till the tomato has browned, and add a half pint of bouillon. Let all this simmer for ten minutes, and then add the carrots, nicely seasoned. Stir well. Cover and let'them simmer for about half an hour. Serve hot. This is a true dish of Carrots & la Créole. Eat with Daube, Roast, etc. Du Célert Celery may be eaten “au naturel,” that is, in its natural state; or in salad; or it may be cooked. When cooked, it is best a la Créme, or in a Purée of Celery. (See recipe.) Fresh Celery Célert au Naturel Scrape and wash the celery nicely. Then cut off the long outer leaves, leaving the tips nice and crisp. Set in a celery glass or bowl, with about, one inch of salt and water, and serve as an appetizer, or hors d'’oeuvre, at the beginning of the meal. Celery makes a pretty decoration for any table. The leaves that have been cut off should be saved and used as garnishes, and also for seasoning. Creamed Celery Célert @ la Creme 1 Pint of Cut Celery.

1 Cupful of Milk or Cream. 1 Tablespoonful ee 1 Tablespoonful Cut: fresh, crisp celery into inch pieces, until you have a pint full. Wash thoroughly, and put in boiling water and cook until tender, which will be about twenty-five minutes or a half-hour. Then put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and add the flour, blending without letting brown. When perfectly smooth, add the cream or milk and let it come to a boil. Then add salt and pepper to taste. Drain out the celery, and add it to the sauce, and stir gently, letting it cook twenty minutes longer. Serve hot. The dish should be kept covered while cooking.

Celery root and the green stalks of the celery, which you do not serve at table, may also be utilized in this way, making a most acceptable and palatable dish.

Celery a V’Espagnole Célert a VEspagnole 4 Stalks of Celery. 2 Hard-Boiled Eggs. Salt and Pepper and 1 Tablespoonful This is a form of celery salad. Wash and scrape the celery well, and then chop it fine. Chop an onion very fine, and also several sprigs of parsley. Cut up a hard-boiled egg very fine. Mix all these together, pour over them a little Tarragon vinegar and oil, if desired, and serve as a salad. Celery Salad Célert en Salade See recipe for Celery Salad. Celery Stew.

Célert auz Petit Pots 6 Stalks of Celery. 1 Egg. 1 Cup of Milk or Bouillon. Cut the celery into pieces and blanch and boil for about thirty minutes, Then drain. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and add the flour, blending without browning. Add the milk and salt and pepper to taste. When it begins to boil add the chopped celery. Let all simmer for twenty minutes longer, and then take off the fire and add the well-beaten yolk of an egg. Season again to taste, and serve. Bouillon or water may be substituted for the milk.

Celery Patties Patés de Céleré The Hearts of 3 Heads of Celery. % Cupful of Grated Ham.

¥% Cupful of Cream. % Cup of Fine Bread Crumbs.

Boil the celery hearts till tender, then drain and pound to a paste, with a cupful of grated ham, cream and fine bread crumbs; season to taste with salt and pepper and add a tablespoonful of butter. Steam the mixture till it thickens, then fill small patty cases with it and serve hot. Celery Fritters Beigneta de Céleré 3: Heads of Celery. 1 Tablespoonful of utter.

2 Ounces of Parmesan Cheese. Cut the celery into pieces three inches long, tying them all in bunches

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allowing three to a bundle; boil till tender in salted water, then take out; remove the strings and drain; season with salt and pepper, and the grated Parmesan cheese. Dip in batter and fry and serve as a vegetable. CEPS Ceps Ceps, the strongly flavored, flatheaded mushroom preserved in cans and imported by us, are considered great delicacies by Creole épicures. They are quite expensive, and are, therefore not as generally used in household cookery as the less pretentious mushroom.

Ceps on Toast Ceps sur Canapés 3 Ceps. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Drain the Ceps from their oil, slice nicely and fry lightly on a slow fire. When thoroughly heated take from the pan, sprinkle lightly with chopped parsley and lemon juice, arrange daintily on slices of toast and send to the table hot.

Stewed Ceps Ceps Sautés 3 Ceps. 1 Onion, Minced Fine. 1 Clove. of Garlic.

spoonful of Flour.

Drain the Ceps from their oil; slice nicely; put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, add the minced union and the clove of garlic minced very fine; moisten with a half cup of milk, let the mixture simmer gently for twenty minutes, then serve the Ceps on slices of toast with the sauce poured around them.

Broiled Ceps on Toast Ceps Grillés sur Canapés % Pint of Sauce & la Maitre d’Hotel.

Grated Bread Crumbs. Sliced Lemon and Chopped Parsley to Garnish. Drain the Ceps from their oil; season well with salt and pepper; roll in fresh bread crumbs finely grated, broil nicely on a double broiler and arrange them on toast. Pour over each slice some of the Sauce A la Maitre d’Hotel, garnish nicely with sliced onion and serve hot. 3 Ceps.

CHERVIL Cerfeutl Chervil is an aromatic plant, resembling parsley, and is much used for seasonings, mainly in oyster soups. It is also considered a delightful salad herb, and is often cut and mixed between lettuce, and served as a salad. It is used, minced, in small quantities, in nearly all salads prepared to suit the taste of epicures. This plant is little known in the North, but in this section there is hardly a garden where it is not found. It is especially used as a flavoring for breakfast salads, a few leaves imparting a delightful taste.

CHESTNUTS Marrons Chestnuts are much used for stufing game. They are also stewed, boiled, or made into purées. (See recipe Purée de Marrons.) Stewed Chestnuts Marrons Sautés 1 Pint of Chestnuts. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Tablespoonful Flour. 1 Tablespoonful Butter.

Shell the chestnuts, and then throw them into a saucepan of boiling water for twenty minutes. Take them out, and remove the dark outer skin. Renew the boiling water in the saucepan, and add the chestnuts and let them cook for twenty minutes more, or until they may be easily pierced with a fork. Then take them ont and drain, and put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan. Add the flour. Blend gradually, without browning. Add the pint of milk and then add the chestnuts, and let all cook for fifteen minutes longer. Season to Chestnuts With Brown Sauce Marrons Sautés & la Sauce Espagnolte 1 Pint of Chestnuts. 1 Pint of Brown The chestnuts may be cooked in the same manner as Stewed Chestnuts, as far as boiling. Then make a Brown Sauce (see Sauce Espagnole), add the chestnuts to it, sauté for fifteen minutes longer, letting all simmer gently, and serve hot.

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eS Boiled Chestnuts Marrons Bouillts @ la Sauce Mattre @’ Hotel 1 Pint of Chestnuts. 1 Pint of Sauce a la Maitre d’Hotel.

Prepare and boil the chestnuts according to above directions. When done, drain and press through a colander. The chestnuts must be cooked very soft for this dish. Add a Drawn Butter Sauce, and sprinkle with salt and pepper or a Sauce & la Maltre d'Hotel, and serve as an entrée, like mashed potatoes.

CHIVES Ctves Chives are small bulbous plants of the onion tribe. The leaves are long and slender and impart a very pleasant flavor to soups, salads, etc. Chives are especially used in seasoning stews of rabbits and hares, hence the name “Civet,” applied to these stews in particular, on account of the high seasoning.

COLLARDS This is a variety of cabbage which does not head, but the leaves are cooked and served in the same manner as other cabbage. However, they are used principally as “greens,” boiled with a piece of salt meat. Du Mais The first young corn in the market is highly prized, but very shortly there is such an abundance that it can be had all summer and late in the fall at prices within the reach of all. There is not a healthier or more nutritious vegetable. The following are some of the dainty ways of preparing this dish:

Corn on the Cob Epis de Mais Boutllis 6 Ears of Corn._2 Quarts of Boiling Only young and tender corn should be boiled. Remove the green outside husks and the silk, as far as possible. Put the corn into a kettle of boiling water, and let it cook rapidly twenty or thirty minutes, if the ears are large. More than this will cause the corn to lose its sweet~ ness. Serve immediately after removing again all the silk, which easily comes to the surface in boiling. Heap the corn on a platter, and serve one ear to each person, with a small butter plate of butter, pepper and salt.

Green Corn, Planters’ Style Mais Tendre @ la VHabitant 6 Ears of Corn.

Husk the corn and pull off the silk, leaving one layer of leaves close to the kernels; put to cook in cold water. When the corn has boiled well for ten minutes, add the salt, but do not let it boil longer than five minutes afterwards, as boiling too much will harden it. Corn cooked in this manner preserves its sweetness and is most palatable and tender.

Roasted Corn Mais Rotts Place the ears of corn which have not been removed from the husks in a hot oven, or, better still, if you can, in hot ashes, and let them roast for a half hour or more, until tender. Then take them out and remove the husks and silk and serve in the same manner as boiled corn.

Creamed Corn Maia 2 la Créme 8 Fine Ears of Corn. 1 Pint of Milk or Cream.

% Spoonful of Black Pepper. 1 Dessertspoonful Butter.

Score the corn down the center of each row of grains, and cut it from the cob. With the knife press out all the pulp from the cob, leaving only the hull. Set a _ porcelain or agate saucepan on the fire, and put into this the corn cobs, cut into pieces. Cover with water, and let them boil until you have extracted all the juices. When the liquid is reduced to about one pint, strain it, add the corn, and let it boil for about twenty minutes. Then stir in half a cup of milk, season with salt and pepper to taste, add a teaspoonful of butter, and serve hot. Or, if you can afford it, boil the corn in milk, using at least one pint, having first added a half cup of the water in which the

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nn) corn cobs were boiled. Let all simmer gently for about a half hour, and then add salt and pepper to taste, and a spoonful of butter, and serve. Some like the addition of a teaspoonful of sugar, but this is a matter of taste. Corn Sautéd With Butter Mais Tendre Sauté au Beurre 8 Fine Ears of Corn.

1 Cup of Milk or Water.

Boil the corn and then cut the grains from the cob with a sharp knife. Put in a saucepan and add one tablespoonful of butter; add the milk, and season nicely to taste. Let the corn boil for about ten minutes Corn Pudding Pouding de Mais 1 Dozen Ears of ‘Tender Corn. 1 Quart 4 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Tablespoonful of White Sugar. Score the corn down each row of grains, and grate it from the cob. Beat the whites of the eggs and the yolks separately. Add the beaten yolks to the sugar and butter, which have been rubbed well together. Beat all this very light, and then add the milk and a half teaspoonful of salt. Blend well, and add the grated corn. Beat again, and blend thoroughly, and add the whites Stir in well, and set the mixture in the oven with a piece of brown paper on top. Bake slowly for about an hour, and serve hot. Corn thus prepared is delicious; it is served with daube or roast filet of beef, etc. Creamed Baked Corn Mais Roti @ la Créme 1 Dozen Large Ears of Young Corn. 1 Pint of Milk. 4 Eggs.

% Teaspoonful of Black Pepper. 1 Dessertspoonful of Butter. Score the ears of corn down each row with a knife, and then cut from the cob. With the knife press out all the pulp and corn juice, leaving the hulls in the cob. Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and then add the corn. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add melted butter, and then add the whites of the eggs beaten to a-stiff froth. Stir in carefully and place the whole in a dish, which har been buttered. Set in the oven and bake for an hour, slowly at first, more rapidly towards the end of the last fifteen minutes. Serve with roast beef, veal or lamb.

Fried Corn Mate Frit 1 Dozen Ears Young, Tender Corn. 1 Minced Onion.

Score the corn along each row, and then cut from the cob with a knife. Press out all the pulp and corn juice from the cob. Mix all and season well with salt and pepper. Mince the onion fine, and blend with the lard, which is already heating in the frying pan. Add the corn when the onions begin to brown slightly, and keep stirring steadily until the grains are cooked, which will be in about fifteen or twenty minutes. This is a very nice breakfast dish or dinner entrée.

Corn Soup Purée de Mais This is a delightful summer soup in New Orleans. (See recipes Creole Summer Soups.) Corn Fritters Beignets de Mais 6EargofCorn. % Pintof Milk. 1Ege. % Cup of Flour. 1 Tablespoonfu Grate the corn. Then beat the egg well, whites and yolks together, and by degrees add the corn, beating in thoroughly and very hard. Add a tablespoonful of. melted butter, and then stir in the milk. Add a tablespoonful of flour, or just sufficient to thicken and bind, and then fry like fritters, in boiling lard, dropping in a deep spoonful at a time. Serve hot. Corn Cakes Gateauw de Mais 6 Ears of Corn. % Pint of Milk. 1Egs. % Cup of Flour. 1 Tablespoonul of Butter.

Prepare the batter in exactly the same manner as above, bake it on a griddle like batter cakes, and serve hot, with generous layers of butter between. These cakes are delicious.

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Corn and Tomatoes Mais Sautés aux Tomates 1 Pint of Corn, Cut from the Cob. 1 Pint of Fresh Tomatoes, Peeled and Chopped.

Sprigs Each of Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf.

Place the butter in a frying pan, and when it heats well without browning add the tomatoes. Let them simmer for about five minutes, stirring well, and then add the minced herbs. Let these stew for three minutes, and add the corn, which has been scored and cut from the cob. Mix all thoroughly. Add salt and pepper to taste, and a teaspoonful of sugar, or less, according to taste. Let all stew or sauté for about twenty minutes, and then stir in a teaspoonful more of butter. Serve hot, after cooking ten minutes longer. Corn Salad.

Mache ou Doucette This is a delicious variety of corn, and is much used for salads during the winter and early spring months in New Orleans. The Corn Salad, for that is the name given to the vegetable, is boiled and then served “a la Vinaigrette,” that is, with vinegar, salt and pepper, or with a plain French Dressing; or with beets, sliced. Still again, it is served with hardbolled eggs. (See recipe.) CRESS Oresson This is one of the most popular winter and spring salad plants, and is also considered a great appetizer, being served as an hors d’oeuvre, and eaten simply with salt. As a salad it is most cooling, refreshing and healthy. We have two varieties, the broad-leaved winter “Curled or Pepper Grass,” and the “Watercress.” The latter can only be planted by the side of running water, or near springs. It is delicious. It is found all through the Louisiana forests, along the streams, especially in the vicinity of Abita Springs and Covington. CUCUMBER.

Ooncombre The Creoles hold, and justly, that the only proper way to eat a cucumber is “en salade.” No fashionable method of cooking this vegetable can ever make up for the delicate flavor that has been destroyed by submitting it to heat.

Cucumbers are best when freshly picked from the vine. When they have been in the market for several days and have wilted, they are not fit for table use. Cucumbers are extensively used for salad and pickling purposes. For salad preparations see special recipes under chapter on Salads. The word “Gherkin” is applied to all kinds of pickled cucumbers; properly, however, the term should be given to the small prickly variety. Cucumbers, besides being served as salads and pickles, are used as a relish and as a garnish. Cucumbers as a Relish Concombrea Comme Hors d’Ocuvres 4 Fine Cucumbers. A French Salad Dressing.

Wash the cucumbers, cut off the bitter end, and pare the skin to a sufficient depth to remove the green portion. Then score them lengthwise with a table fork. Put them into a salad earthen bowl and sprinkle with salt. Set in an ice box for three hours; then cut into delicate slices and serve with a French Salad Dressing, the dressing being served in a separate dish. In preparing cucumbers for use as a relish with fish, this method should be followed. Cucumbers as a Garnish Concombres Comme Garnitures 3 Fine Cucumbers.

Peel and slice three fine cucumbers, and then make a marinade of one teaspoonful of vinegar, with one finely sliced onion. Let the cucumbers marinate in this for an hour, and then drain and use as a garnish for cold meats, especially cold Bouilli. 1 Large CURRY Kart Curry is a condiment composed of pulverized Cayenne pepper, coriander seed, tumeric, onions, garlic, ginger root, cloves, cinnamon, cardamon and salt, all pulverized together and thoroughly mixed. It is extensively used in the making of stews of fish, meats and some vegetables.

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TS DANDELIONS.

Dent-de-Lions The Creoles long ago discovered the possibilities of the dandelion under cultivation, the wild dandelion. as all know, being a common, hardy perennial. It is found in great luxuriance in the Louisiana meadows and pastures, the deeply notched leaves closely resembling Chicorée, so extensively used as a salad and as a green. Through cultivation the dandelion is now numbered among the best of the early spring salads: (For recipe for Dandelion Salad, see chapter on Salads. ) Dandelion Greens Dent-de-Lions Boutllis 1 Quart of Dandelion Greens A Ham Shank 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Cut off the coarse roots; wash the leaves thoroughly; steep in salt and water for’ five hours to remove the bitterness. Boil a ham shank for two hours, throw in the dandelions, and cook gently for forty-five minutes; then drain, chop fine; season with butter, pepper and salt. Mince the ham very fine and sprinkle over the greens; spread over the top sliced hard-boiled eggs and serve hot. EGGPLANTS Des Aubergines This is one of our most esteemed and useful vegetables, and is served in the following delightful ways: Stuffed Eggplant.

Aubergines Farcies 6 Eggplants of Good Size.

1% Cups of Bread, Wet and Squeezed. 1 Tomato. 1 Onion. 1°Clove of Thyme, Parsley, Bay Leaf.

Cut the eggplant in two pieccs, and put to boil in cold water for about half an hour. or until tender. take out of the water and set to cool. When cold, take out the seeds and throw them away. Then scoop out carefully the soft meat of the eggplant, and leave the skins unbroken, setting them carefully aside. Chop the soft eggplant fine, and then wet and squeeze one and a half cups of bread. Chop the onion and tomato fine, and mince the herbs and garlic very fine. Season the eggplant well with salt and pepper. Put the butter Then ~ in the frying pan (use a tablespoonfui of lard, if you have not the butter), and brown the onton in it slightly. Then add the chopped tomato and its juice, and let this fry for four or five minutes. Then add the minced herbs and the clove of garlic, and almost immediately the chopped eggplant. Then add the bread at once, and mix all well. Season again to taste, and let all fry for about five minutes. Take off and fill the shells with the stuffing, sprinkle the top lightly with bread crumbs, dot with butter and set in the oven to bake to a nice brown. Fried Eggplant.

Aubergines Frites 2 Young Eggplants. 2 Eggs. Flour to Make a Good Light Batter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Lard.

Slice the eggplants very thin, paring them if large, and leaving the skin on if very young and tender. Make a light batter with the eggs and flour. Season the eggplant well with salt and pepper. Soak the slices in the batter. Lift out and fry in the boiling lard. When done on one side, turn on the other with a cake turner. Drain the fried eggplant on brown paper in the mouth of the oven, and serve hot on a flat dish or platter. Eggplant Fritters Aubergines en Beignete ou au Natural 2 Young Egplants. % Pint of Milk. Salt and Pepper. Flour.

Slice the eggplants evenly and thin. Roll them in milk in which you have put salt and pepper to taste. Pass the slices in sifted flour, very lightly, and fry in boiling lard. The eggplant must float in the lard. Drain on brown paper in the mouth of the oven, and serve hot.

Stewed Eggplant.

Aubergincs @ la Créole 3 Eggplants. % Can of Tomatoes. 2 Cloves of Garlic. 2 Onions. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Salt and Parboil the eggplant for about thirty minutes. Take out of the boiling water and let cool slightly. Then skin and cut into pieces half an inch square. Chop two onions very fine and brown them in a tablespoon of butter. As they brown, add half a can of tomatoes, or six fresh ones cut

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fine, the square inch of ham chopped very fine, then two cloves of garlic, minced very fine, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Let this simmer for three or four minutes, and then add the eggplant sufficient to make a pound. Let all cook, smothering slowly, tightly covered, and stir them often to prevent burning. Season again to taste, cook for half an hour and serve very hot.

ENDIVES De la Ohtoorée Endive, or Chicorée, is served both as a salad plant and as a vegetable. It is very popular among the Creoles, and is much cultivated for the market, especially for summer use. Chicorée as a salad is served in exactly the same manner as Lettuce Salad. (See recipe under chapter on Salads.) Endive With Cream Sauce Chicorée, Sauce @ la Creme 2 Heads of Chicorée. 4 Tablespoonfuls 2 Glasses of Cream or Milk. A Pinch of Nutmeg. Salt and Pepper Pick nicely three heads of Chicorée, casting away all the outer green leaves. Then wash the heads carefully in fresh, cold water; drain and wash again, and blanch for ten minutes in boiling salted water; take them out and put them in cold water. Then drain off all the water, and chop the Chicorée very fine. Cook it slowly in a saucepan with four tablespoonfuls of butter for a quarter of an hour. Pour two glasses of milk or rich cream over it; add a pinch of grated nutmeg, and salt and pepper to taste. Mix all thoroughly together for five minutes on the stove; then remove, put in a dish, garnish nicely with Crodtons fried in butter, and Endives With Gravy Ohtcorée au Jua 4 Heads of Chicorée. 1 Onion. 1 Carrot. 1 Herb Bouquet.

¥% Pound of Bacon. Salt and Pepper to 1 Pint of Veal or Chicken Consommé Clean and pick the Chicorée well, pare off all the outer leaves, and wash the heads well in several waters. Then drain and blanch them in salted water for ten minutes. At the end of this time throw them in the cold water to cool; drain and cut into quarters. Put the piece of bacon in the bottom of a sautoire or stewpan, and add an onion and carrot and herb bouquet, minced very fine. Lay the Chicorée on top of this, season with a teaspoonful of salt and a half teaspoonful of black pepper, and cover with a buttered paper. Then set the sautoire in the oven, and let the Chicorée cook for ten minutes, when it will be a golden brown. Moisten with half a pint of veal or chicken consommé, cover and again set in the oven for thirty minutes. At this point it will be ready to serve. Arrange the Chicorée on a hot dish; strain the sauce, pour it over and serve.: De VAil Garlic is a bulbous-rooted plant, of a strong penetrating odor, and is highly esteemed as a flavoring for soups, stews, roasts and various other dishes. Garlic is a staple product of the lower Louisiana parishes, being raised for home consumption and for shipping. More garlic is grown and used in Louisiana than in all the other states together. It is cultivated like the onion. In the spring the bulbs are taken up and plaited together in long strings. One of these strings contains from fifty to sixty heads in double rows. They are then hung up in a dry, airy place, or stored away. They will keep from six to eight months. Great strings of garlic adorn the stalls of the French Market all the time.

HORSERADISH Ratfort The roots of the horseradish are extensively used as an appetizer. They are an agreeable relish, with a fine, sharp, pungent taste. Scraped and grated very fine, and set on the table in small cups, they are used as a condiment. In cookery, the horseradish is excellent in the preparation of sauces and salads.

KOHLRABI, OR TURNIP-ROOTED Chou-Navet This vegetable is used in making soup purées or vegetable purées, and is also prepared in the same manner ’

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as cauliflower. (See recipes Purées and also Cauliflower.) The finest variety, the “Early White Vienna,” is the only kind ever grown and sold in New Orleans. It is an excellent table vegetable, very popular among the Italian and other European population of the city especially, and is very largely cultivated.

LEEKS Potreauz This popular vegetable is a species of onion, highly esteemed for flavoring soups, etc. It is used altogether as a seasoning.

LENTILS Des Lentilles Lentils are among the most nutritious of all vegetables. They may be made into a purée (see recipe under chapter on Soups), or may be cooked in every manner in which red and white beans are cooked. On Fridays and fast days they are simply boiled over a slow fire, with a little butter, salt and pepper, and a bouquet of parsley, and an onion cut in quarters. Again, the Creoles cook Lentils with sausage, or Chaurice. Still again, they are simply boiled in salt and water, and served with a Sauce a la Vinaigrette, Sauce Soubise, or a Sauce & la Maltre d'Hotel. (See recipes.) Des Champignons Mushrooms constitute one of the greatest flavoring vegetables known to the scientific cuisinier. They are used in all manner of sauces, and are considered quite necessary and invaluable when veal, game or fish are cooked “en braisé’ or “en sauté.” They are used in ‘‘matelotes,” and in nearly all forms of farcies. The Creoles, like the French, think it a crime to cook this vegetable in any form that would destroy its own peculiar flavor.

Stewed Mushrooms on Toast. Champignons Sautés sur Canapés 1 Pifit of Mushrooms.

Tablespoonful of Butter. The Julce of Prain the mushrooms of their liquor, and place in a stewpan with the butter; season to taste with salt and pepper; cover and let them cook for ten minutes, tossing almost constantly. Add the juice of a lemon and the chopped parsley. Place six slices of toast on a dish, garnish these nicely with the mushrooms and serve. The toast may be omitted if it is desired simply to stew the mushrooms and use them as a vegetable.

Mushrooms With Cream Champignons Sautés @ la Créme 1 Pint Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful 4 cup of Cream.

The Yolk of 1 age. 1 Tablespoonful our, Let the mushroms with their juice simmer for fifteen minutes in a saucepan, porcelain-lined or agate. Then add one tablespoonful of butter, blended well with the same amount of flour, and mixed thoroughly with the cream. Season with salt and pepper. Stir well. Bring them to a good boil, remove from the fire, and stir in the yolk of an egg, which has been beaten. Serve immediately in a very hot dish or bowl. To stew cinned mushrooms, drain them of their liquor. Melt the butter in a porcelain-lined saucepan, and gradually add the flour, without letting it burn. Blend smoothly. Add the boiling milk, and let it boil for about two minutes. Then add the mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste. Remove from the fire after five minutes. Serve on buttered toast or Croftons fried in butter. Again, the milk may be omitted, and the mushrooms stewed in their own liquor. Stewed Mushrooms, Spanish Style Champignons Sautés a UVEspagnole 1 Pint or 1 Can of Mushrooms. 1 Teaspoonful of Chives.

1 Dozen Whole Peppers.

Salt and Black Pepper to Taste. Drain the mushrooms of their Nquor; cut them in lozenge-shaped pieces, and put them in a dish and sprinkle with a tablespoonful of olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste. Let them soak in this marinade for fully two hours. Then take them out and put them in a saucepan and let them stew for ten minutes. Make a sauce Per

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eS of three tablespoonfuls of olive oil, the clove of garlic, minced fine, and a tablespoonful of minced chives, and blend well. Add this to the mushroms and let them sauté for five minutes longer on a very slow fire, without boiling, and serve hot. Fried Mushrooms Champignons 2 la Bordelatse 1 Pint Mushrooms. 1 Tablespoonful Olive Oil.

6 Shallots, Minced Very Fine. Thyme, Parsley and Bay Leaf, Minced ne.

1 Clove of Garlic, Minced Fine. Put the oil into a frying pan, and, when heated, add the shallots, minced very fine. Let these brown slightly, and add the minced garlic and fine herbs. Let these brown for three minutes or so, and then add the mushrooms. Stir well and fry for about five minutes. Serve the mushrooms on slices of French toast. MUSTARD GREENS.

De ia Moutarde Mustard is grown extensively in Louisiana, especially the large-leaved or curled variety, which is now a distinctly Louisiana product, quite different from the European kind. The seed is black, and is raised in Louisiana, and the plant is being more extensively cultivated every year. The large leaves are cooked exactly as Spinach (see recipe), or they may be boiled with salt meat and served as greens, Du Févi Okra is a great summer dish with the Creoles. It may be made into Gumbo (see recipe Okra Gumbos), or boiled and served en salade. Bofled Okra Févi Bouttls 1 Quart Young Okra. 1 Tablespoonful Wash the okra well in cold water, and put in a porcelain-lined or agate saucepan. Add a pint of water and & teaspoonful cf salt. Cover the pot, and let the okra simmer for about half an hour. Take from the pot, season with salt and pepper to taste, pour over it a tablespoon of Tarragon vinegar and set to cool. Serve as a salad, and with all meats, such as daube, roast, etc.

Stewed Okra, Creole Style Févi Sauté a la Créole 4 Dozen Okra. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 83 Nice Potatoes, 1 Onion. 1 Green Pepper. 1 Clove of Garlic. Wash the okra and pare the ends. Put it in a saucepan with one tablespoonful of butter; add a finely minced onion, clove of garlic and Breen pepper. Let these cook for six or eight minutes, and then add the three tomatoes, chopped fine; and, also the juice of the tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper; add a dash of Cayenne and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Now add the okra and let all simmer slowly for twenty minutes. Place in a hot, deep serving dish, cover and send to the table.

De V’Oignons Onions have always been conceded by acientists to be among the most healthful of foods. The onion is, besides, indispensable in the kitchen. It is used in almost every kind of meat and fish or vegetable seasoning, and imparts a flavor that cannot be yielded by any other vegetable. Onions are also widely known as great sedatives. Onion juice, mixed with sugar, is largely used by the old Creoles in coughs and colds, and is almost an infallible remedy. The onion is used as a salad, or it may be cooked in some very delightful ways. There are those who object to eating onions on account of the odor that clings to the breath, especially in eating raw onion in salad. This should never interfere with the use of a vegetable that carries within it important chemical juices that are so helpful in the upbuilding of the general system. A glass of milk, immediately after eating a raw onion, will, it is said, destroy every particle of odor or taste that remains in the mouth. Boiled Onions Oignons Bouillis 1 Dozen Nice, Small White Onions Throw the onions in their skins into cold water, and peel them. Then put

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ed them.into a saucepan of boiling water. Add a teaspoonful of salt, and let them boil about forty minutes, or until you can pierce them easily with a fork. Put them into a dish and drain off all water.’ Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste, pour over them a Drawn Butter Sauce (see Beurre a la Malitre d’Hotel), and serve hot. The large Spanish onions will require about an hour longer to boil tender. Creamed Onions.

Otgnons @ la Creme 1 Dozen Small, White Onions. ful Flour. % Pint of Milk or Cream. Boil the onions as directed in the above recipe. When very tender, take off the fire and drain. Pour over them the following cream sauce, which you will have prepared when almost ready to serve: Put one tablespoonful of flour into a saucepan, and add a tablespoonful of butter. Set on the fire, and let all blend well together, rubbing very smooth, without browning. Then add half a pint of milk. Stir continually till it boils. Season with salt and pepper to taste, pour it over the onions, and serve hot. The young onions are delictous when prepared in this manner.

Fried Onions Otgnones Frits Dozen Nice, Tender Onions.. ful Salt. Pepper to Taste. Throw the onions into cold water. Peel them, and cut them into thin slices. Cover them with boiling water, and let them cook about twenty minutes. Drain off the water thoroughly, and put them into a frying pan with a large tablespoonful of butter, season well, to taste and let them fry slowly for about ten minutes. Turn frequently, to prevent them from burning. Again, the onions may be fried without previous boiling, some preferring this latter method, as it allows the onion to retain its flavor. Simply peel and pare and slice into round-shaped pieces. Lay the pieces in milk, and then in grated bread crumbs or flour, and fry them in boiling fat for about ten minutes. Lift them out of the fat, drain well, and serve on a hot dish with fried parsley as a garnish. Young shallots may be fried by washing well in cold water, cutting off the rough roots, and then neatly slicing the green and white together into half-inch dice. Season well with salt and pepper, and fry in butter for about five minutes. Garnish a dish with parsley sprigs. Lay the shallots on these and serve hot.

Smothered Onions Oignons Sautés 1 Dozen Small Onions.

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Quart of Broth. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Put the onions into cold water, and remove their skins. Then put them into a saucepan, cover them with a soup stock (pot-au-feu or bouillon), if you have it, otherwise use water, and let them stew slowly for a hour and a half, till they are almost falling to pieces. Then drain the onions through a@ colander, and save the stock. Put a tablespoontul of butter into a frying pan, and add a tablespoonful of flour, and make a Brown Roux. (See recipe.) When brown, add a half pint of the broth in which the onions were boiled. Season well with salt and pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Put the onions into this und let them simmer gently for about twenty minutes longer. Serve hot.

Stuffed Onions Oignones Farcis % Dozen Large Spanish Onions. A Stuffing of Chaurice.

Put a half dozen fine, large Spanish onions in hot ashes to roast. When they are sufficiently cooked, which will be in about half an hour, dust them off and peel well. Then open the interiors and fill with a stuffing made as follows: Put a tablespoonful of butter in a frying pan, and add three Chaurices, which you have taken out of the casings and chopped finely again. Add a cup of bread, which has been wet and squeezed, and mix well. Then add an inch of ham, finely chopped, and a sprig each of thyme and parsley and sweet marjoram, and one bay leaf, all finely minced. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Fry about fifteen minutes, and then stuff the onions as far down in the center as possible, and between the folds. Sprinkle the onions with sifted bread crumbs, and

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er ——— put a little dot of butter on top of each. Set in the oven and let them bake for about thirty or forty minutes. Serve with roast beef. Another nice way of stuffing onions is to peel them, scoop out the deep centers with a vegetable scoop, parboil them for ten minutes, and then fill the insides with the sausage forcemeat, as directed above., Line the bottom of a stewpan with fine strips of bacon. Lay over these an onion and a carrot, both minced very fine. Place the onions on top of this and moisten with a pint of Chicken or Veal Consommé. Set in the oven to bake for about three-quarters of an hour and baste frequently. Serve in a hot dish, with the sauce poured over them..

Baked Onions Oignons Rotis 1 Dozen Large Spanish Onions. Trim the onions nicely, but do not peel them. Then put them into a kettle of boiling water, and let them cook rapidly for about an hour. Drain in a colander. Then put them ina baking pan, and let them bake slowly for about an hour. Take them out, peel them, place them in a vegetable dish, and sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve with Drawn Butter Sauce. (See Buerre a la Maltre a’Hotel.) After taking the onions out of the boiling water, if you wish to serve “Roast Beef aux Oignons,” peel the onions and place them around the beef roast in the oven. Baste them as often as you baste the roast, with the juices that come from it. Serve with the roast, using them as a garnish around the dish.

Glazed Onions Oignons Glacés 1% Dozen Small Onions of Uniform Size.

1 Tablespoonful Sugar. 1 Cup Water. 1 Large Teaspoonful Butter. Select small onions of uniform size, top the heads and the stems, and remove the skins, but not too closely, lest they should break up when boiling. Put a heaping tablespoon of butter in a frying pan, large enough for the onions to lie in it, side by side, and when melted add the onions. Then sprinkle with the sugar and water, and season with salt to taste. Set on a very slow fire, where they can simmer gently for an hour. When nearly done, and tender all through, add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed in water, blended well. Then set in the oven, with a paper on top. Let them stand for about half an hour, and use as a garnish for beef, veal, etc. The onions will be nicely glazed, and will make the dish appear very beautiful.

SHALLOTS Echalottes Shallots are small-sized onjons, grown in clumps. They are very delicate and mild in flavor, and much used in soups, stews, salads, etc. In the green state they are also chopped and fried in butter. (See recipe Fried Perstl Parsley is one of the most important of all vegetable herbs, entering, as it does into the seasoning of soups, meats, fish and even vegetables. It is one of the most beautiful of all garnishes, and gives a pretty touch to the homeliest dish. The “PlainLeaved,” the “Double Curled” or the “Beautiful Garnish” varieties are al‘ ways to be found in the New Orleans ° market.

Fried Parsley Persil Frit 6 or 8 Sprigs of Parsley.

1 Tablespoonful of Lara.

Pick off the delicate leaves and branches of very young parsley, wash well, drain and put in a frying pan, in which there is a tablespoonful of rather hot lard. Fry slowly and drain and use as a garnish or in any desired Chopped Parsley Perstl Haché Wash the parsley in cold water, trim off the coarse stems and branches and leaves, immerse in very cold water again, drain, press dry and chop very fine. Use as needed.

Parsley Green.

Perstl au Jus Take young parsley, wash well, strip of all coarse stems and branches, plunge into very cold water, chop very

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———————————————————————————— fine, squeeze in a strong kitchen towel and save the juice for coloring purposes.

Parsley for Garnishing Purposes. Garniture de Persil Take several bunches of fresh parsley, trim off all the coarse stems, wash in slightly salted water, drain and place in a colander. Set over a watertight vessel. Shave some ice, cover the parsley with it and let it keep fresh and cool for table garnishes. Never lay parsley that is intended for garnishing purposes in water, as the freshness will be quickly destroyed, and it will become dark, discolored, limp and slimy, quite devoid of all beauty or crispness.

PARSNIPS Des Panais 6 or 8 Parsnips.

% Pint of Sauce a la Maitre d’Hotel. To boil parsnips, if they are young, simply scrape them and lay them in cold water. If the parsnips are old, pare them and cut them in quarters, or, better still, lengthwise. Let the young parsnips cook in salted boiling water in a porcelain-lined saucepan for forty-five minutes; the older ones require an hour and a quarter. When done, take them out of the saucepan, drain and serve hot on a heated dish with a Drawn Butter Sauce. (See Beurre A la Mafltre d’ Hotel.) Boiled Parsnips With Cream Sauce Panate Bouillig a la Creme 6 or 8 Parsnips. A Cream Sauce. Proceed exactly as above in peeling and boiling the parsnips. When done, drain and put into a heated dish, and serve with a Cream Sauce poured over them. (See recipe Cream Sauce.) Use the parsnips with boiled salt fish, fresh fish, or boiled corn beef. Fried Parsnips.

Panais Frits 5 Parsnips. 1 Tablespoonful Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls gf Drippings of Roast eef.

Brush and scrape or peel the parsnips as directed above, and boil them in salted water until quite tender. When done, drain off the water and cut the parsnips lengthwise into slices of about half an inch im thickness. Put two tablespoonfuls of the drippings of the roast beef in the saucepan, and add a teaspoonful of butter. When hot add the sliced parsnips. When they are brown on one side, turn on the other and let this brown also, Place on a hot platter, sprinkle with chopped parsley and salt and pepper, and serve with roast Smothered Parsnips Panais Sautés 6 or 8 Parsnips. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Boil the parsnips as directed, and cut them into strips half an inch wide. Put a big cookingspoonful of butter into the saucepan, and add the parsnips. Sprinkl2 well with salt and pepper. Cover and let them fry, but only slightly brown on either side. Serve with chopped parsley as a garnish. Mashed Parsnips Purée de Panais 6 or 8 Parsnips. 1 Tablespoonful of 1 Tablespoonful of Flour. 1 Pint of Boil the parsnips until so tender that they break easily under pressure. Then mash them well, after draining off all water. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and add a tablespoonful of flour. Blend, without browning, and add a half pint of milk or cream. Stir well, and as ‘the mixture begins to boil, add the parsnips. Mix thoroughly, season with salt and pepper, and serve in a dish, heaping up the parsnips in pyramidal shape. Serve with veal cutlets.

Parsnip Fritters Beignets de Panais 6 Parsnips.

1 Cup of Water. 2 Eggs.

% Pound of Flour. 1 Teaspoo: aT. poonful of 1 Teaspoonful of Pepper.

Boil the parsnips as directed above till very tender. Cut them into long, narrow strips. Make a batter by mixing the flour with the yolks of the

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ge) @gegs, beaten well. Then add the salt a.nd pepper, and gradually one cup of water, till it is absorbed. Then add stiff froth. Mix thoroughly. Add the ‘parsnips to the batter. Dip out one at a time in a buttered spoon, and fry in boiling lard. Serve as an entrée at dinner.

Parsnip Balis Boulettes de Panais 8 Large Parsnips. 2 Eggs.

Boil the parsnips as directed above, until very, very tender. Then drain and mash through a colander. Beat two eggs very light, and add the parsnips. Then form the mixture into little balls or boulettes, and fry in boiling lard, or make into little cakes and fry on a griddle.

PEAS Des Pois Secs All dried, split, kidney, or blackeyed peas may be cooked in the same manner as beans. (See recipe.) Les Pois Verts Green peas are abundant in our New Orleans market, with two full crops, the spring and the fall. The larger, or older peas are called “Les Pois Verts,” and the smaller, or French peas, “Les Petits Pois.” The latter are great delicacies when boiled and served with butter; the former may be utilized in making that most delectable dish, ‘“Purée des Pois Verts. (See recipe in chapter on Soups.) To Cook Canned Green Peas Petite Pots en Conserve The many delightful brands of French peas that come put up in cans do not require much cooking, being, like all canned vegetables, already cooked, To prepare these, drain them carefully after opening the can, and put them in a saucepan; add a tablespoonful of butter and pepper and salt to taste. Set on the fire, and, when thoroughly heated, serve immediately. Green peas are served with all roasted, broiled and sautéd meats, fowls or game. There is scarcely a vegetable that can be so variously used with entrées.

Boiled Green Peas Petit Pots au Naturel 1 Pint of Fresh Young Green Peas, Shell the peas, and when you have a@ pint (sufficient for six), put the peas into cold water, drain, and put into a saucepan of boiling water; add @ teaspoonful of salt to prevent the peas from cracking, and let them boil rapidly for at least twenty minutes. To ascertain if they are done, take one out and press with a fork. The secret of cooking green peas properly is to have plenty of water so they may boil very rapidly, and not to let them boil a moment longer than necessary, so as to keep them from being soggy and to preserve their fresh color and sweetness. Fresh peas should never be shelled until the very moment you wish to boil them. When cooked, they must be eaten immediately. As soon as done, drain off all water; put a large tablespoonful of butter into the saucepan with the peas, season with pepper to taste, pour into a vegetable dish and serve hot. This is the very nicest way of cooking this dainty vegetable. As the peas grow older and larger, they may be made into purées, or cooked as follows:

Green Peas & la Bourgeoise Pois Verts Sautés @ la Bourgeoise 1 Pint of Peas.

Ounce of Chopped Onion.

1 Herb Bouquet, Minced Fine. ¥% Pint of Cream or Milk or Water. Shell and boil the peas according to the above recipe. Add sprigs of parsley, thyme and bay leaf, finely minced. When done, which will be in about forty minutes, if the peas are large, or perhaps a few minutes longer (easily ascertained by taking out a pea and pressing it with a fork), drain off all water and add one tablespoonful and a half of butter. Then blend the flour, and add the milk, mixing carefully together and stirring well, to prevent browning or burning. Serve hot. Some add the yolk of an egg, well beaten, after taking the peas off the

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fire, but this is a matter of taste; the flavor of the peas is more delicate without it.

Green Peas, Country Style Petite Pois Verts @ la Paysanne 1 Pint of Green Peas. 3 Small Carrots. \% of a Head of Green and White % Pint of Consommé of Veal or Shell the peas; take three small carrots, and one-eight of a head of cabbage, and one-quarter head of lettuce, and cut into small dice-shaped pieces. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan and let the dice-shaped vegetables smother for about fifteen minutes over a slow fire without browning. Add the green peas and the consommé, and let all cook for a half hour, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and use a sprinkling of chopped parsley as a garnish. Green Peas, French Style Petit Pois Verte @ la Francatse 1 Pint of Fresh Green Peas or 1 Can, 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. % Cup of 1 Herb Bouquet. 1 Lettuce Heart. 1 Teaspoon of Powdered Sugar. Shell the peas and wash and drain them. Put them into a saucepan, with one tablespoonful of butter; add the herb bouquet, the onion whole, and the lettuce heart, and cover with cold water, and let them simmer slowly for about twenty minutes, or until tender. Then drain off the water, remove the onion and herb bouquet, lay the lettuce heart on a dish, and add another tablespoonful of butter to the peas. Let them cook for five minutes longer. Pour the peas over the lettucc heart, send to the table hot, and serve with chops or cutlets as a vegetable.

Green Peas, Old Creole Style Petits Pots Verts @ l’Ancienne Mode Créole 1 Pint of Young Green Peas. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. % Cup of The Yolk of 1 Egg.

1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. Shell and clean the peas carefully. Put them in a saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of butter, and cover with a cup of water; season with a pinch of salt, and let them cook for twenty minutes, or until tender. Beat three tablespoonfuls of cream till mixed with the yolk of an egg, add a half pinch of white pepper, and mix thoroughly with the peas. Add a teaspoonful of powdered sugar, stir well, and let all cook together for five minutes and serve hot.

Purée of Green Peas, Creole Style Purée de Pois Verts a la Créole 1 Pint of Green Peas. 1 Cup of Milk or Cream.

A Pinch of Salt and White 1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. Shell and clean the peas well; then put them in a saucepan with the cream and a half cup of water, and let them simmer till they become quite soft. Then remove the pan from the fire; rub the peas through a fine sieve; season well with the salt and pepper and sugar; add a tablespoonful of butter, beating it in gradually with the peas; set on the stove for five minutes and serve hot. Peas thus prepared are served as a vegetable with entrées and other meats. Purée of Green Pcas & la St. Germain Purée de Pois Verts @ ia St. Germoin 1 Pint of Green Peas. 1 Pint or Chicken Broth.

1 Pint of Sweet Cream.

2 Sprigs of Mint.

A Pinch Each of Salt and White 1 Teaspoonful of Powdered Sugar. 8 Chicken Quenelles to Garnish, Shell and clean the peas and put them in a saucepan or sautoire, adding one pint of chicken broth and one pint of sweet cream. Add an herb bouquet, in which you have tied two sprigs of fresh mint. Let the peas cook for twenty minutes, or until very tender, and then remove the herb bouquet and mint; take from the fire, and run the peas through a sieve. Season with salt and pepper and a little powdered sugar; add a tablespoonful of butter; set on the fire five minutes longer, and then serve on a hot dish with Chicken Quenelles (see recipe) to garnish. Make -the quenelles from the chicken left over from a broth. Serve as an entrée.

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———— oe Des Pommes de Terre Potatoes may be cooked in a greater variety of ways than any other vegetable. They are nutritious and are always economical as well as palatable.

Steamed Potatoes.

Pommcee de Terrc 4 la Vapeur 8 Nice Potatoes.

A Pot of Boiling Water. Salt. Wash the potatoes well, scrubbing thoroughly, to take off every particle of dirt. Then put them in a potato steamer, over a pot of boiling water, cover tight and steam till you can pierce them with a fork. When done, remove the jackets, and sprinkle with salt and pepper; add a tablespoonful - of butter mixed with chopped parsley; and serve immediately. Or they may be served just as they are, in a covered dish. A potato should always be mealy, and not sogged with water, if cooked properly. In cooking potatoes the time depends on the size of the potato. An unfailing test is to cook till the potato can be easily pierced with a fork.

Boiled Potatoes.

Pommes de Tcrre au Naturel. 6 Potatoes, of Uniform Size, if Possible. * Boiling Water.

Potatoes should always be boiled in their skins, or jackets, if possible. Never be guilty of paring a new potato before boiling. Towards the close of winter, just before the new crop comes in, the potatoes may be pared, so that blemishes may be removed; but this is scarcely necessary unless the old potatoes have sprouted and shriveled.

Wash and scrub the potatoes well, and put them on in their jackets in a pot of boiling water, which has been well salted. Let them cook until they are soft enough to be pierced with a fork. -Do not let them remain a moment longer, or they will become watery and nothing is more disagreeable than a wet, soggy potato. When done, take them out and drain dry. Put them in a steamer, sprinkle with salt, cover, and let them stand over the kettle (lid open) on the fire for a few minutes, for them to dry out well. After five minutes take off, peel ‘ quickly, and serve in a covered vegetable dish.

Potatoes With Drawn Butter. Pommes de Terre au*Beurre Mattre @’ Hotel.

Boil the potatoes according to the above recipe. Peel them and pour over them a tablespoonful of melted butter, mixed with some chopped parsley. Salt and pepper to taste. Potatoes prepared in this way are delicious, Or, if you wish to have mashed potatoes, or a “Purée of Potatoes,” as @ vegetable, mash the potatoes well, and add two tablespoonfuls of butter. Salt and pepper to taste. Place in a dish, mold prettily, and serve hot with meats, fish, poultry, etc. A half cup of milk or cream may be added to the purée with very delicious results. (For Purée of Potatoes as soup, see recipe under heading Soups.) Salt and Creamed Potatoes.

Pommes de Terre a la Creme 6 Potatoes. A Cream Sauce. Boil the potatoes as above, and pour over them (remembering always to keep them whole) a Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) Serve hot with fried chicken. Add the juice of a Potatoes A la Maitre d’Hotel. Pommes de Terre @ la Mattre d’i6tel 6 Potatoes. Sauce & la Maitre d’Hotel. Boil the potatoes whole, according to recipe, and serve hot, with a Sauce a la Maitre d’Hotel poured over them. Potato Puffs.

Pommes de Terre Soufiées @ la Créole 2 Cups of Cold Mashed Potatoes. 2 Eggs. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Cream or This is a nice way to utilize leftover potatoes. ‘Mash the potatoes well, and put them into a frying pan with the butter. Add the yolks of two eggs well beaten, stir well, and add almost immediately the cream. Let it get very hot, stirring all the time. Then take the potatoes from the fire, and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Butter a baking dish or biscuit pan, and fill with the mixture. Let it bake in a quick oven till brown.

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Potato Snow.

Pommes de Terre a la Neige 6 Potatoes. Salt to Taste. Boil the potatoes with their jackets on. Then peel them and set them over a very low fire, to evaporate all the water. Sprinkle them lightly with salt. Then rub them through a sieve or colander. Let the potato fall in light, flaky drops, like snow flakes, never touching them as they fall. Serve on the dish in which the flakes are lying. ‘ Potatoes au Gratin.

Pommes de Terre au Gratin 5 Cold Boiled Potatoes.

% Pint of Cream. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 3% Heaping Tablespoonfuls of Gruyére or Parmesan Cheese.

% Pint of Consommé or Water. Put the butter in the frying pan. and as it melts, add the flour, and let it blend, rubbing smooth, without browning. Then add the consommé or water and the cream, and stir constantly till the mixture boils. Then take the saucepan from the fire, and add the cheese, well grated and the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Salt and pepper to taste. Beat all thoroughly till light. Mash the potatoes well, and place, first, a layer of the sauce in the pan, and then one of the potatoes, and so on till the sauce forms the top layer. Sprinkle this lightly with bread crumbs, and set in the oven and let bake ten minutes. ‘When it comes to a nice brown, serve in the dish in which it was baked. Potato Croqucttes.

Pommes de Terre cn Croquettcs 2 Cups of Mashed Potatoes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Cream. 1 Tablespoonful of Onion Juice. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Ounce of The Yolks of 2 Esgs. A Dash of Cayenne.

Beat the yolks to a cream and add them to the potatoes. Mix well and then add the cream and all the other ingredients. Mix well, and put into @ saucepan over the fire, stirring until the mixture leaves the side of the vessel. Take off the fire, and set to cool. When cold, shape into cylinders about two and a half inches in length and one in width. Roll first in a beaten egg, to bind, and then in bread crumbs, and fry to a golden brown in boiling lard. (See general directions for frying.) When done, lift out of the lard with a skimmer, and drain on brown paper in the mouth of the oven. Serve for breakfast, or as a garnish for meats. Utilize left-over potatoes in this way. Serve with fish, fried, broiled or Boulettes are prepared in exactly the same manner, only thyme and bay leaf, minced very fine, are added and the potatoes are formed into balls, or boulettes. Boulettes are eaten more generally at breakfast, and croquettes at dinner, especially with fish.

Potato Souffié.

Pommcs de Terre en Soufflé 2 Cups of Mashed Potatoes. % Cup of Cream.

Mash the potatoes well, pressing them through a colander. Then add the butter, and beat till smooth and light. Add the cream and the wellbeaten yolks of the eggs, and salt and pepper to taste. Next add the whites, which must be beaten to a stiff froth. Then heap this into a dish, leaving the mound rough and uneven, so that the dish will look pretty with the tips nicely browned. Set in the oven and bake to a beautiful brown, and serve in the dish in which it was baked.

Scalloped potatoes are cooked in the same manner, only the potatoes are cut into dice, a Cream Sauce its made, and a layer of potatoes and a layer of the sauce is put into a pan or shells, and then alternate layers, with a layer of sauce on top. Sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs, and serve in the shells or in the dish in which it was baked.

French Fricd Potatoes.

Pommes de Terre @ la Francaise 6 Potatoes. Boiling Lard.

Peel the potatoes and cut them into three-inch dice, or sections like an orange. Have ready a frying pan of very hot, boiling lard, and let them

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erred fry to a golden yellow or brown. Do hot burn. Take them out with a skimmer, and drain in a heated colander. Stand the colander in the mouth of the oven while you fry the rest of the potatoes. When done, sprinkle with salt, garnish with chopped parsley and serve hot. Julienne Potatoes.

Pommes de Terre @ la Julienne 4 Potatoes. Boiling Lard.

Peel and cut the potatoes into long, thin strips. Then fry in boiling lard Potato Chips.

Pommes de Terre Frites.

z Potatoes. Boiling Lard.

Parsley Sprigs to Garnish. Slice two medium-sized potatoes just as thin as possible and fry them in boiling lard. (See directions for frying.) Use a vegetable cutter, if you have one, for slicing the potato. Drop a few pieces at a time into the lard, which must be not a bit less than three inches deep. Stir the slices occasionally, to keep them from overlapping each other. When a light brown, take them out of the pan, drain them on a piece of brown paper laid in a colander. Stand them in the open oven, and keep them warm. As you finish the second frying turn the first from the colander into a heated dish, and s0 contirfue till all the potatoes are fried. Serve hot. Garnish, if you wish, with parsley sprigs.

Lyonnaise Potatoes.

Pommes de Terre & la Lyonnaise 2 Pints of Cold Boiled Potatoes, Cut in Dice.

2 Large Tablespoonfuls Slice two pints of cold boiled potatoes rather thickly. Mince the onions fine. Put the lard into the frying pan and as it melts add the onions. Let them fry until half done, and then add the potatoes. Fry and stir gently until the potatoes are a light yellow. They must not be fried brown or crisp, but merely sautéd, or smothered, in the onions. The dish is really Pommes de Terres Sautées a la Lyonnaise. When done, turn into a hot dish, garnish with chopped parsley, and serve very hot.

Brabant Potatoes.

Pommes de Terre Brabant.

3 Bolled Potatoes.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Lard.

1 Teaspoonful of Vinegar.

Cut the potatoes into small diceshaped pieces and fry them for a few minutes in the lard. When half brown take them out and finish frying them in the butter to a light: brown. When ready to serve add three sprigs of chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon, and serve hot. Potatoes & la Bourgcoise.

Pommes de Terre @ la Bouregotae. 6 Potatoes. 1 Pint Gravy or Broth. 1 Onion. 1 Leak.

Peel cold boiled potatoes and cut into quarters, and then drain and put into a saucepan, and cover with any meat gravy or soup stock that may be on hand, and add chopped onion, chopped leak, pepper and salt. Set on the stove and let stew or simmer for half an hour. This is an excellent family dish, that can be made with left-over potatoes, and may be used for breakfast or luncheon. Potatoes With Butter.

Pommes de Terre au Beurre. 16 Small New Potatoes.

1 Tablespoonful Parsley.

Select for this dish small, round new potatoes, about the size of a marble. Boil them for about’ half an hour or twenty minutes, according to the touch when pierced with a fork. Then drain very dry, peel quickly, and put into a saucepan, with a tablespoonful of.butter. Let them brown lightly, and serve with Drawn Butter Sauce, in which you have put a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Potatoes, Creole Style.

Pommes de Terre @ la Oréolc. 8 Potatoes. 1 Spoonful of Flour. Yolks of 2 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Boil the potatoes according to recipe. Then take them out of the water, drain and set on a very low fire for five minutes, to evaporate. Then take off and pour over them this Cre-

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ole sauce: Blend one tablespoonful of flour with two of butter, and, as it melts, add about three large tablespoonfuls of water. Let it come to @ boil, take it off the stove and add the yolk of an egg, which has been beaten very light. Add two teaspoonfuls of vinegar. Beat well, and pour over the potatoes, and serve either hot or cold & la salade.

Potatoes & la Diable.

Pommes de Terre & la Diable. 2 Dozen New Potatoes, About the Size of Marbles.

1 Teaspoonful of Mustard.

2 Large Tablespoonfuls of Butter. A Dash of Cayenne. Salt to Taste. Take nice, fresh new potatoes and boil them. (See recipe for boiling potatoes.) When done, take off and let evaporate, being careful not to have cooked them too much. Heat the lard to the boiling point in a deep frying pan, and when it begins to boil drop in the potatoes, and let them fry for about five minutes. Lift out with a skimmer, drain quickly, and put them into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of melted butter into which you have rubbed well a teaspoonful of prepared mustard. Add a dash of Cayenne and two teaspoonfuls of vinegar. Let it cook for three or four minutes, shaking constantly, and then take off. Add the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and serve. Duchess Potatoes.

Pommca de Terre @ la~Duchesse. 1 Dozen Boiled Potatoes.

The Yolk of 1 Ege.

Mash smooth one dozen boiled potatoes and form them into small square cakes. Criss-cross them gracefully with a knife, brush with the yolk of an egg beaten in water or milk, and set in the oven to bake to a@ delicate brown.

Potatoes & la Parisienne.

Pommes de Terre @ la Paristenne. 1 Kitchenspoonful of Butter. % Pint of Milk or Water, 2 Eggs. Peel the potatoes and let them boil till tender in salt and water. Take them out of the water and grate and mash them into a paste. Put this potato paste in a saucepan with a kitchenspoonful of butter and a half pint of milk or water, more or less, according to the dryness of the potatoes. Season lightly with salt. Let all boil together, stirring constantly until a smooth and thick paste is formed. Then turn the mixture into another pan, in which you have already beaten two eggs until very, very light. Mix thoroughly, and make small boulettes or balls of this paste. Have ready a pan of boiling lard, place the boulettes in it, and when they are a beautiful golden brown take them out, drain and serve hot. The boulettes may also be sprinkled with fine white sugar, according to the true Parisian style. The Creoles serve them with or without the sugar, according to taste. Sweet potatoes may also be prepared after this manner, and are delicious. The sweet potatoes are always sprinkled with white sugar. Potato Balls.

Pommes de Terre cn Boulettes. 1 Kitchenspoonful of Butter. % Pint of Milk. 2 Eggs.

Cook the potatoes as above, or use cold left-over potatoes, for this dish. Mash the potatoes well and add an equal quantity of cold left-over meat or pork, minced very fine. Sausage may also be used, with or without the meat. Season well with salt and pepper, minced parsley and shallots or onions. Mix well with the yolks of two eggs, and form into balls of medium size. Brush with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and fry in boiling lard. Serve garnished with chopped parsley or meat gravy. Potato Quenclics.

Quenelles de Pommes de Terre. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 2 Eggs. Boil the potatoes, peel and mash very fine. Add the butter and minced parsley, and a half onion minced very fine. Add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light, and then form the potatoes into balls and throw them for two minutes into boiling water. Take out, brush with the whites of the eggs, roll lightly in powdered bread crumbs, and fry in boiling lard. Drain and serve with fish, meat or any sauce.

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eS Baked Potatoes.

Pommes de Terre Réttes.

6 or 8 Potatoes.

A Drawn Butter Sauce, or Sauce & la Hollandaise.

To -bake potatoes without meat, wash the potatoes well, set them in the oven in their skins, and in about an hour open the oven slightly and take the potatoes out, one by one, in a cloth, and press lightly to see if they are quite soft to the touch. Then either bring to the table in their jackets, as many prefer, or pare and serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce, or with daubes, meats, sautés, etc., or with any fish or meats with gravies. Stuffed Potatoes, Creole Style. Pommes de Terre Farcies @ la Oréole. 6 or 8 Potatoes. Chaurice (Sausage) Forcemeat. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. This is a delightful variation in preparing potatoes. Select fine large potatoes, and have ready several nice Chaurice. Wash and peel the potatoes carefully, scooping out the insides nicely with a spoon or sharppointed knife. Then make a sausage forcemeat (see recipe) and heap up lightly on top. Butter a baking dish nicely, place the potatoes upon it, and let them bako in a slow oven for a half hour or forty-five minutes, till nicely browned, and send to the table hot.

Stuffed Potatoes, Lenten Style. Pommes de Terre @ la Créme. 6 Large Potatoes. The Yolk of 1 Egg. % Cup of Milk or Cream.

Bake the potatoes in the oven, and, when done, cut one end and scoop out the meat without breaking the skin. Add the yolk of one egg, the butter, chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste, and the grated nutmeg, and moisten all with the cream or milk. Mix well and beat very light. Then refill the skins and return to the oven for a few minutes, till very hot and slightly browned, and serve. Stuffed Potatoes, Swiss Style. Pommes de Terre Farciea & la Sutsec, 6 or_8 Potatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. % Cup of Hot Milk. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Pepper to Taste. Bake the potatoes, and, when they are done, cut off the tops and scoop out the meat into a hot bowl; mash very fine, and add the butter, -the milk and salt and pepper. Some add a little grated Gruyére cheese; this is a matter of taste. Whip all till very light, and add the beaten whites of two eggs, and stir lightly. Fill the potato skins with this preparation, heaping the flaky potatoes nicely on top. Brush over lightly with the yolks of the eggs, set in the oven to brown and serve hot.

Potatoes as a Garnish.

Pommee de Terre pour Garniture. Beef, Veal or Mutton Drippings. Select nice, round potatoes, if you wish to roast them with beef. Wash them, clean, boil, or, better, steam them; peel and lay them in the pan with the beef or mutton or veal, and let them brown awhile before the meat is done, basting them when you baste the meat with the drippings from the roast. Place as a garnish around the roast, and bring to the table hot.

SWEET POTATOES.

Dea Patates Douces.

Sweet potatoes may be boiled, baked, fried or made into purées, and used in puddings and pies. The sweet potato is one of our most common vegetables. Possessing saccharine properties, it is especially nourishing, and palatable. -.

Boiled Swect Potatoes.

Patates Douces Boutllies 6 Potatoes. A Drawn Butter Sauce. Wash the potatoes well, using a cloth or brush, anl removing every particle of earth. Clip the edges of any roots that adhere. Put them to boil in a kettle of boiling water, and let them cook till they may be easily Pierced with a fork. Then drain off the water, and set the kettle on a very low fire. Cover and let the potatoes steam a few minutes. Take them out after five minutes or so. and peel and serve them with Drawn Butter Sauce, or cut in slices and spread butter over them, and set in the oven for a few seconds, and serve hot with daubes,. fish, grillades, etc. Sweet potatoes are almost invariably served with roast pork,

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Fricd Swect Potatoes.

Patates Douces Frites.

4 Potatoes. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Cut the boiled potatoes lengthwise in slices. Fry in very hot butter until brown, and serve hot. This is a very nice way to utilize left-over To fry uncooked potatoes, the great breakfast dish for fast days among the Creoles, slice the potatoes not lengthwise, but by rounds, and fry in boiling lard. Bring to the table when a beautiful brown, and eat with butter, spread generously over. Baked Sweet Potatoes.

Patates Douces Roties.

6 or 8 Potatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Wash the potatoes, and scrub the skins, but do not peel them. Rubbing the skins of the potatoes lightly all over with a little lard, butter or fat bacon always renders them very soft and pliable to the touch when baked; they will peel readily, without crumbling from dryness, as baked potatoes often do, the peeling coming off in thin strips, leaving the potato intact. Put the potatoes in a baking pan in the oven, and let them cook until their centers are mellow to the touch. Serve in their jackets immediately. Serve with roast meats, daubes, grillades, etc., or as a Friday dish, to be eaten with butter. To roast potatoes with meat or pork, wash and boil the potatoes well, and a haif hour before the roast pork or beef is done pare the potatoes, drain well, and place in the baking pan, around the pork or beef, and baste frequently with the dripping from the roasting meat. Or put in the pan without boiling, and bake a half hour longer. The former is the better method.

Sweet Potato Fritters.”

Patates Douces en Beignets. 4 Boiled Sweet Potatoes.

1 Glass of Milk. 1 Teaspoonful of Sugar. Juice of Lemon. Powdered Sugar. Cut the boiled sweet potatoes into slender round;lices, and steep them for a half hour in a little milk. Then make a light batter, to which you will have added a tablespoonful of sugar. Add the juice of a lemon to the soaking potatoes. Take each slice at a time, dip it in the batter, and let it drop from the spoon into the boiling lard. When fried to a nice golden brown place on a piece of brown paper, and drain in the oven. Then place in the dish in which they are to be served. Sprinkle with powdered white sugar, and serve hot as a sweet entremet.

Sweet Potatoes, Caramel.

Patates Douces au Caramel. 4 Potatoes. Boiling Lard or Butter. Boil the potatoes, and then cut them lengthwise in halves. Fry in boiling lard or butter, and, while frying, sprinkle generously with sugar. This is a deliclous sweet entrée. Sweet Potato Pudding.

Pouding de Patates Douces. 6 Sweet Potatoes. % Pound of Fine The Rind of a Lemon, Grated Fine. % Grated Nutmeg. 4 Ground Allspice. 1 Piece of Ground Cinnamon. 1% Pints of Milk or Cream. Boil or bake the potatoes, peel and press them through a very fine sieve, the finer the better. Add to them the yolks of six eggs, and beat well. Then add the butter, beating well and thoroughly, and add the sugar and milk. Beat all very light, and add the froth. Mix thoroughly, and add the grated nutmeg, ground spices, and lemon rind, blending well with the potatoes. Set them in a hot oven, and let them bake for an hour. Place a brown paper on top for the first three-quarters of an hour, and take it off at the last quarter for the frangipane to brown nicely. Sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot or cold.

Sweet Potato Waffles.

Gaufres de Patates Douces. 4 Left-Over Potatoes.

Other Ingredients in Proportion Given. This is a good way to utilize leftover potatoes. To every two tablespoonfuls of mashed potatoes add one of butter, one of sugar, one pint of milk, and four tablespoonfuls of flour. Beat all well together, and add one egg, well beaten. Bake them in waffle irons and serve with butter spread over them.

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Oe rene) Sweet Potato Pone.

Pain de Patates Douces.

4 Large Sweet Potatoes.

1 Teacupful of Brown Sugar. 1 Teacupful of New Orleans Molasses. 1 Teacupful of Milk.

1 Teacupful of Butter. 4 Eggs. The Rind of One Lemon, Grated. A Small Bit of Orange Peel, Grated Very Fine.

% Teaspoonful of Nutmeg.

% Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. Grate the potatoes and the rind of the lemon and orange. Beat the eggs well; stir the butter and sugar till creamy, add the eggs, beat well, then add the grated potato and spices and milk; beat all well together; add the grated rind of the orange and lemon, put the mixture in a well-buttered pan and bake slowly for about an hour. It may be served hot or cold cut in slices. It is delicious when eaten cold at luncheon with a glass of fresh milk.

PEPPERS.

Des Piments More peppers are raised in Louisjana than in any other section of the country. The hot varieties, or “Pimentos,” “Chili,” “Red Pepper,” “Cayenne,” “Tabasco,” etc., are used extensively for seasoning and for making our famous Creole pepper sauces. The mild varieties, “Sweet Peppers,” or “Green Peppers,” “Mangoes,” etc, are highly esteemed, and are used not only in making salads, but in other delightful dishes. GREEN PEPPERS.

Des Piments Verte.

Green Peppers may be used in salads. as seasonings for various dishes, or they may be stuffed or sautéd. For Green Pepper Salads see recipe under chapter on “Salads.”

Stuffed Green Peppers.

Piments Verte Farcis.

2 Dozen Fresh Green Peppers. % Onion, Chopped Very Fine. % Inch of Boiled Ham. 1 Clove of % Cup of Bread, Wet and Squeezed Thoroughly.

Parboil one dozen green peppers. Then take off the skins, cut off the topmost tips, and clean the inside of the peppers, throwing all the seeds away. Then wash a dozen or more raw peppers, cut off the stalk or stem, and clean the insides of all seeds. Chop the peppers very fine. Use onehalf of an onion, minced fine, and let it brown lightly in the butter. Then add the _ peppers, minced very fine, almost mashed into a jelly, and the half inch of ham, minced very fine. As these brown add the clove of garlic, minced fine, and when the peppers are well cooked add one-half a cup of bread that has been wet in water and squeezed thoroughly. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and let it brown. Add a dash of Cayenne pepper. When the stuffing is well browned and well seasoned take from the stove and stuff the peppers. Sprinkle a little grated bread crumbs on top, and place a dot of butter on each one. Put them in the stove, let them brown, and serve hot with meats, broiled or roasted chicken, etc.

Green Peppers Sautéd.

Piments Vertes Sautés 1 Dozen Large Green Peppers. 2 Chopped Shallots. 2Sprigs of Parsley. A Dash of Sweet Paprika.

Plunge the peppers into hot boiling fat and rub off the skin. Then cut them into halves, cut off the stems, and take out the seeds. Carefully cut away the ribs and let the peppers sauté for ten minutes in a tablespoonful of butter. Then moisten with a pint of consommé; season with the chopped shallots, parsley and sweet paprika, and let all cook slowly for a half hour, or until done. Prepare fancy slicés of toast, and serve the peppers on these with a delicate garnish of chopped yolks of MANGOES.

Mangos This is a bright, waxy, golden-yellow sweet pepper, very brilliant and handsome, and exempt from fiery flavor, and may be eaten as readily as an apple. Mangoes are generally served as an appetizer (hors d’oeuvres).

PUMPKIN.

Des Ottroutlles—Des Giraumonts ou Potirona We have two varieties of pumpkin in Louisiana, one a large, rounded,

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eee —_—_ TTS globe pumpkin, and the other a more dclicate and much more highly appreciated varicty, called the Cashaw. The former is called by the Creoles “Citrouille,” and the latter “Giraumont,” or “Potiron.” Both are cooked according to the following methods:

Stewed Pumpkin.

Citrouille a la Créole 2 Pints of Pumpkin or Cashaw. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Mace. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. Cut the pumpkin into halves and then into quarters, and pare. Then cut it into pieces of about one inch square. Place them all in a deep pot, and add sufficient water to cover. Let the pumpkin stew slowly for about an hour, stirring frequently to prevent burning. Then take out of the pot, press through a colander, and set on a very low fire. Add, for every pint of pumpkin, two large tablespoonfuls of butter, and a half teaspoonful of salt, one of ground mace, one of ground cinnamon and one of ground allspice. Mix all thoroughly, and add sugar to taste. Let it simmer slowly for half an hour longer, and serve-hot with daubes, Grillades a la Sauce, etc. If the pumpkin cooks till very tender, so that it mashes easily, it need not be pressed through a colander.

If the Citrouille, or large pumpkin, is used, never cook all at one time. Cut it in half, and save one part for another day. The Cashaw, according to the size, is generally cooked all at once. Left-over pumpkin can be utilized in making pumpkin pie. (See Baked Pumpkin.

Giraumont Roti.

2 Pints of Pumpkin or Cashaw. A Dressing of Butter or Gravy. Cut the pumpkin in halves and then into quarters. Two quarters are enough for a family of six, if the pumpkin is large. Remove the seeds, but do not peel the rind. Place in a baking pan with the rind downwards, and bake until so tender that it may be pierced easily with a fork. Serve in the rind at the table, helping it by spoonfuls. It is eaten with butter or gravy.

RADISHES, Dee Radia.

Radishes are caten as a relish, or hors d'oeuvres. They are great appetizers, and help the digestion. There is an art in preparing the radish properly for the table. Cut the tops and save them for Gumbo aux Herbes. Throw the radishes into a bucket of cold water and wash well. Have at hand another bucket of water. Cut the remaining tops about an inch from the body of the radish, so that only the dainty green will appear. Hold the radish by the top, root upwards, and cut the. skin downwards in four or six parts, without detaching the radish from the stalk. In other words, open as you would an orange, without breaking to pieces. Throw the radishes into the fresh bucket of cold water, and in abo t fifteen minutes they will have opened like a rose, the effect of the white against the red being very pretty. Fill glass bowls with these, using taste in arranging, and you will not only have a very dainty dish, as far as a relish is concerned, but a pretty table decoration.

Another way is to scrape the radish in spots or lengths, alternating so that there will be a streak of red and one of white. The radish is not cut open in this case. Either way is pretty and inviting, if properly done. One or two dainty leaves may be left near the stalk to improve the appearance of the dish.

Radishes may be served at breakfast, dinner or luncheon. The horseradish is used as an appetizer, and also in sauces.

ROQUETTE.

Roquette.

This is a salad vegetable, resembling Cress in taste. It is served as a salad in the same manner, and is very popular with the Creoles. SALSIFY, OR OYSTER PLANT.

Kalsifia.

All recipes given for cooking parsnips may be applied to Salsify, which, by the way, is considered the more delicate of the two, though both are of the same order. Salsify partakes somewhat of the flavor of. oysters, hence the name “Oyster Plant.” (See Parsnips. )

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Oyster Plant, Creamed Ralsifis 2 la Creme A Bunch of Fresh Oyster Plant. % Pint of Cream Sauce.

Wash and scrape the roots of the plant thoroughly. Then throw them into cold water immediately as you scrape them, or they will turn black and appear unpalatable. Have ready a kettle of boiling water, and cook for an hour, or longer, till tender. Drain and serve with a Cream Sauce poured over them. (See recipe Cream Oyster Plant a la Poulette. Saletfis &@ la Poulette.

A Bunch of Salsify or Oyster Plant. % Pint of Sauce a la Poulette. Prepare exactly as in the manner indicated above, using instead of the Cream Sauce a Sauce & la Poulette. Oyster Plant Sautéd in Butter. Salsifie Sautés au Beurre. A Good Bunch of Oyster Plant. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. A Tablespoonful of Salt.

A Teaspoonful of Chopped Parsley. A Pinch of Black Pepper.

Scrape the oyster plant well and throw into cold water, into which put two tablespoonfuls of vinegar to prevent the salsify from turning black. Take from the water, drain and cut into pieces one and a half inches in length. Put into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and flour well mixed and cover with a quart of cold water. Add a tablespoonful of salt, cover well and let boil slowly for three-quarters of an hour. Drain and return to the saucepan and add two tablespoontfuls of the best butter, the pepper, chopped parsley, juice of a lemon, and a pinch of black pepper. Mix well and let it heat for five minutes, tossing almost constantly. Put into a deep dish and serve hot.

Salsify Fritter.

Balsifis cn Beignete.

A Bunch of Salsify.

1 Cup of Water. 2 Eggs.

% Pound of Flour 1 Teaspoonful of alt.

1 Teaspoonful of Pepper.

Clean and scrape the salsify and boil as directed in recipe Boiled Parsnips (see recipe) till very tender. Then cut into long, narrow strips. Make a batter by mixing the flour with the yolks of the eggs, beaten well. Then add the salt and pepper, and gradually one cup of water, till it is absorbed. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix thoroughly. Add the salsify to the batter. Dip out one spoon at a time of the batter, and fry in boiling lard. Serve as an entrée at dinner. SPINACH.

Des Epinards Spinach is one of the most healthful vegetables, but, unfortunately, it is generally so badly prepared by the majority of cooks as to be not only most unpalatable, but unsavory as well. The great art in cooking Spinach is to cook it just long enough and no longer, to drain thoroughly and to have it of just such consistency as will enable it to retain a neat shape when arranged on a dish in mound shape. The most important point of all, however, is to drain it perfectly dry the moment it is taken from the fire. If allowed to cook too long, it loses its color. If it stands in the water it becomes tasteless. Spinach, Plain Boiled.

Epinards au Naturet & Peck of Fresh Young Spinach. 1 Cupful of Water. 2 Tablespoonful of utter, Always select young and tender spinach. Carefully pick it over, and reject all wilted leaves and coarse fibers and nerves. Cut off the roots. Wash and drain it well in cold water, and press until quite dry. It will take about half a peck, or four pints, to make a good dish, as it boils down. Put the spinach in a kettle and add one cupful of water. Place on a moderate fire and let it simmer for ten minutes. As soon as it appears to wilt take off the fire, for that is all the cooking that is needed. Then drain the spinach carefully first through a colander, and then press it in a. very fine sieve, to drain it more thoroughly. Chop the spinach very fine. Then put a tablespoonful of butter in a saucepan, and add the spinach to it. Stir well. Add a few spoonfuls of water, just sufficient to thin, if a Httle thick, and let it heat

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ee TT eee thoroughly. Season with salt and At this point the spinach may be served in various ways, as Spinach a la Créme, Spinach au Jus, Spinach with Hard-Boiled Eggs, Spinach a la Maitre d’Hotel, etc. The plain boiled spinach may be served with vinegar as a salad. (See recipe under chapter on Salads.) Spinach, Creamed.

Epinards a la Créme ¥% Peck of Spinach. 1 Cupful of Water. spoonful of Powdered Sugar. 6 Crodadtons.

Prepare the spinach as above. ‘When about to take from the saucepan, have ready slices of buttered toast, or Croftons fried in butter. Roll the Crodtons in sugar before frying. Heap the spinach in little mounds upon them, sprinkle lightly with sugar, pour over all a Cream Sauce (see Cream Saute), and serve hot. Spinach au Jus & la Bourgeoise. Epinards au Jus @ la Bourgeoise Peck of Spinach.

2 Hard-Boiled or Poached Eggs. 1 Cup of Gravy or Consommé. Boil the spinach according to the above recipe. When ready to take from the saucepan, after adding the butter and seasonings, put it in a saucepan and pour over a cup of roast beef gravy or consommé, let it cook for twenty minutes, and serve hot.

Spinach With Hard-Boiled Eggs. Epinards aur Oeufe Dure 4 Peck of Spinach.

1 Cupful of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of 3 Hard-Boiled Eges.

Cook the spinach as in recipe for Spinach (Plain Boiled). Then take it from the saucepan, and arrange it in a mound on a dish, garnishing with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Spinach a la Maitre d’Hotel. Epinards @ la Mattre d'Hotel. % Peck of Spinach. 1 Cupful of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. A Sauce € la Maltre d’Hotel., Prepare the spinach as directed in recipe Plain Boiled Spinach. Pour over a Sauce & la Maltre d’Hotel, cook a few minutes, and serve hot. Spinach a la Cuisiniére Epinards @ la Cuisiniére. % Peck of Spinach. % Tablespoonful of Butter.

Milk.

6 Toasted Crodtons, Prepare the spinach as above, hash fine, and put in a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter. Season with salt and pepper, add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed with a cup of milk and a spoon of melted butter, and serve with toasted dice—Crodtons on the top.

Cup of BEET TOPS, RADISH TOPS, TURNIP TOPS, ETC.

Never throw away any beet, turnip or radish tops. They may all be cooked in the same manner as spinach au just, or they may be boiled with salt meat, and make very good and healthful dishes. These may be made into nice purées, also. (See recipe for making purées. ) SORREL.

De VOseille.

Sorrel is used for various Purposes in the kitchen. It is made into soups and purées, served as a salad, or cooked in exactly the same manner as in the recipes for spinach. (See recipes Spinach.) Sorrel Purée.

Purée d’Oseille.

In preparing Sorrel after this recipe, make a purée, to be 3erved as a@ vegetable or as a soup. (See recipe.) A vegetable purée is, of course, much thicker than a purée intended for soup.

Sorrel au Gras, Osetlle au Gras.

Prepare the sorrel in exactly the same manner as spinach, or “f£pinards au Jus.” (See recipe.) Reject all fibrous portions. ‘After you have scalded it, it is important to drain thoroughly. Then chop and press through a colander. Garnish nicely with Crofttons fried in butter. Sorrel is very acid, and for those who do not like it, the acidity may be modified by mingling with equal parts of spinach or lettuce.

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Sorrel au Maigre Osetile ax Maigre.

Prepare exactly as above, only, instead of using broth or gravy, add milk and the well-beaten yolks of two eggs.

SQUASH Courge.

3 Young Squash. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Cut the squash into quarters and pare and remove the seeds. Then cut into small squares of about an inch. Wash in cold water, put it into a porcelain-lined or agate saucepan and only half cover with water, for squash is a watery vegetable. Let it simmer gently for about twenty minutes or half an hour. Then drain through a colander, pressing gently. Mash the squash very fine after draining, and return to the saucepan. Add two tablespoonfuls of butter, and salt and pepper to taste, and stir until thoroughly heated, when it will begin to simmer gently. Do not cease stirring or it will burn. Serve hot. TOMATOES, Des Tomates.

Like the onion, tomatoes are among the indispensable adjuncts of good cooking, entering, as they do, so much into the good seasoning and delicate flavoring of various dishes. They are also excellent in salads. (See Salads.) Tomatoes, when cooked, however, form very dainty dishes, and among these are the following:. Stewed Tomatoes.

Tomates Sautées.

12 Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of 1 Teaspoonful of Sugar. 1 % Cup of Bread_Crumbs. 1 Inch of Ham, Scald the tomatoes, and let the water remain over them about five minutes. Then peel them, slipping the skins off with a silver knife, and cut them into small pieces. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and as it melts add the onion, which you will have chopped very fine. Let it brown, and add one inch of ham, chopped very fine. Then add the tomatoes, and let them brown, slowly adding in the meantime a half cup of dry bread crumbs. Let all simmer gently and add one sprig each of thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Stew slowly for an hour longer, and serve hot.

Broiled Tomatocs.

Tomatee Grillées.

6 Tomatoes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butttr.

Take six tomatoes and cut them in halves crosswise, but do not peel them. Cook them in a well-buttered broiler on a slow fire until tender. Turn the broiler from one side to the other often, to prevent burning. In about ten minutes they will be done. Lay them on a hot dish; put melted butter, a little chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon on each, and serve hot. - Fried Tomatocs.

Tomates Frites.

6 Nice, Large. Firm Tomatoes. 1 Ege. Cup of Bread Crumbs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Lard.

Slice the tomatoes very thin, and then dust with salt and pepper. Beat the egg very light. Dip the tomatoes first in this and then in the bread crumbs, and drop into the lard, covering the bottom of the pan. When brown on one side, turn on the other. Turn carefully with the cake turner into a heated dish. Keep warm while you are frying the rest, and serve Tomatocs au Gratin.

Tomates au Gratin.

6 Tomatoes. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs. Scald and skin the tomatoes. Then place a layer of them at the bottom of a baking dish, cover with a layer of bread crumbs, spread very thick, and season with salt and pepper ana dots of butter at intervals. Continue in this way till the last layer is reached, finishing with a layer of bread crumbs, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot with butter, and put in an oven to bake for an hour and a quarter. Canned tomatoes will require about half this time.

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Scalloped Tomatoes.

Tomates en Cogudlles.

6 Tomatoes. 1 Cup of Grated Bread Crumbs.

Proceed exactly as above, ouly bake the tomatoes in layers in small cups or silver shells.

Stuffed Tomatoes.

Tomates Farctes.

6 Tomatoes. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Cup of Wet Bread, Squeezed Thoroughly.

1 Clove of Garlic (if desired). 1 Onion, % Inch of Ham.

Wash the tomatoes, selecting fine, large, smooth ones for this purpose. Either cut the tomato in two, or else cut one slice from the stem end. Scoop out the inside of the tomato, and put it in a dish and save the shells. Chop very fine one onion and one quarter of an inch of ham. Puta tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, and add the onion, letting it brown nicely. Then add the minced ham. Let it brown. Now put in the tomato pulp, and then add, almost instantly, a cup of bread that has been wet and squeezed. Beat all well together as it fries, and add salt and pepper to taste. Let it cook well, then take it off, and stuff the tomatoes, cut in halves or whole. The former is the daintier way. Sprinkle the tops with bread crumbs and dot with butter. Place in the oven for fifteen or twenty minutes, till brown, and serve hot with filet of beef or chicken, etc.

Stuffed Tomatoes, Creole Style. Tomates Farctes & la Créole. % Pound of the White Meat of c 2 Inches of Ham.

1 Egg. 1 Tablespoonful of Parsley. 1 Onion, Minced Fine. % Cup Bread Crumbs.

Thyme and Bay Leaf.

Chop the chicken meat very fine. Cut the tomatoes into halves, and scoop out the insides without breaking the outer skins, and chop the pulp very fine. Put a tablespoonful of butter into the saucepan, and as it melts add the chopped onion, and let it brown. After a few minutes add the ham and chicken, and let these brown. Then add the tomatoes, and, as they brown,.the bread crumbs. Add the minced herbs and a clove of garlic, if desired. (The garlic must be added before the tomatoes, if it be used.) Let all simmer gently. Season to taste with salt and pepper and a dash of Cayenne. Watch well and remove it from the fire, when about the consistency of thick starch. Let it cool slightly, and then stuff each tomato shell. Sprinkle grated bread crumbs on top, and dot with butter. Place in the oven for about half an hour, and serve as an entremet with chicken or veal.

Tomato Salad.

Tomatce en Salade.

See recipe under chapter on Salads. Tomato Purée.

Purée de Tomatee.

See recipe under chapter on Soups. TURITIPS.

_ Des Navets.

Turnips are largely used, like the tomato and onion, though not to such an extent, in seasoning food substances. They are indispensable with the pot-au-feu, the boullion, or the well-made consommé, Mashed Turnips.

Purée de Navete.

6 Turnips. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. ‘Wash and pare the turnips, cut them into quarters, cover them with boiling water, cooking them till very tender, which will be in about thirty to forty-five minutes, according to the tenderness of the vegetable. If you boil them whole it will take an hour and a quarter. Now drain them, very thoroughly in a colander, pressing them lightly to squeeze out all remaining water, and hash well. Adda tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper to taste, and serve hot. Turnips may be mixed with equal quantities of potatoes, mashed and buttered.

Plain Boiled Turnips.

Navets Boutllis au Naturel, 6 Turnips. A Drawn Butter Sauce. Boil the turnips whole, selecting very tender ones. They will require about an hour's cooking. Always

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nn OO —_—— start with hot water in boiling turnips. Drain well, when tender, and serve with a Drawn Butter Sauce, pepper and salt. Serve with roast beef, mutton or roast duck.

Creamed Turnips.

Navets @ la Créme.

6 Turnips. A Cream Sauce.

Cut large turnips in quarters for this dish. Small ones may be boiled whole. When tender, drain and put into a colander and press out all water. Then make a rich Cream Sauce (see recipe) and pour over the turnips. Serve with boiled leg of mutton, either by placing the turnips around the leg of mutton on the dish and pouring the sauce over all; or separately, as a vegetable. Turnips Baked With Mutton. Mouton ROti aug Navetea, 6 Turnips. Salt and Pepper to Taste. Roast Mutton Drippings.

Boil the turnips until nearly tender. Then drain in a colander. If very large, cut in quarters; if small, let them remain uncut. Lay them on the pan, around tho roasting leg of mutton, and let them bake about an hour, basting frequently with the drippings from the mutton. When done, place around the leg of mutton as a garnish, and serve.

Glazed Turnips.

Navets Glacés, 6 Turnips of Uniform Size. 1 Tablespoonful_of Sugar. 1 Cup of Select fine, small and tender turnips of uniform size, top the heads and the stems, and remove the skins, but not too closely, lest they should break up when boiling. Then take a frying pan large enough for the turnips to lie in it, side by side. First put the butter in a large frying-pan, and when melted add the turnips. Then sprinkle with the sugar and water, and season with salt to taste. Set on a very slow fire, where they can simmer gently for an hour. When nearly done, and tender all through, add a tablespoonful of flour, mixed in water, blended well. Then set in the oven, with a paper on top. Let them stand for about half an hour and use as a garnish for beef, veal, etc. The turnips will be nicely glazed, and will make the dish appear very beautiful. Turnips Fried in Butter.

Navets Sautés au Beurre.

6 Turnips. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. Boil the turnips according to directions, and, when very tender, drain in a colander. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a frying pan, and when it is hot add the turnips. Season well with ‘salt and pepper, and, when nicely browned, dish on a hot platter and serve with roast ducks. Boiled Turnip Tops, Creole Style. Navets @ la Créole.

% Peck of Turnip Greens.

1_Tablespoonful of Salt and a Pound of Fresh Pork or 1 Pound of Salt Pork. Wash the turnip tops, and put into a kettle of boiling water with a piece of fresh or salt pork. Let them boil slowly till tender, and then season well with salt and pepper. When tender, take out and chop a little. Drain off all water, and serve as you would boiled cabbage, piling the turnip tops around the dish, with the salt meat or porl: in the center. Again the Creoles boil the white turnips with the greens, cutting the former always into quarters or semiquarters, according to their size, and chopping the greens after cooking. Eat with pepper vinegar, as you would boiled cabbage.

Dee Trufes.

The Truffie is a most expensive vegetable, belonging to the family of Mushrooms. It is much esteemed by epicures, for, when mixed in proper proportions, it adds a zest and flavor to all sauces for Fish, Filets of Beef, Turkey, Chicken, Game and Omelets that cannot be found in any other plant in the entire vegetable kingdom. The name “Truffle” is supposed to be derived from the French “Truffe,” or the Spanish “Trufa,” signifying deceit or imposition, the growth of the plant underground seeming to accord with the name.

Truffles come prepared in cans, being put up in France, those of ‘‘Perigord” being the brand most in use.

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The Creoles use Truffles mostly as a condiment for fish, meats, stuffings for poultry, game, etc. For filets, they are prepared simply ‘Truffée,” or whole or cut in halves; or “a la Perigueux,” that is, the Truffies are cut or minced very fine. They are also served after the following manner as entremets or hors d'oeuvres: Truffies in Spanish Style. Truffes @ l’Espagnole.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Salad Oj) or Butter. 1 Tabiespoonful of Minced Parsley. 3 Finely Minced Shallots.

3 Sprigs of Minced Parsley. Sauce Espagnole.

Slice the Truffies very fine, put them in a saucepan on a slow fire, with a tablespoonful of butter or two of oil, salt and pepper to taste, and the minced parsley and shallots. After letting them smother for a few minutes, moisten well with a Sauce Espagnole. Quicken the fire slightly, and let them cook slowly till done. Skim off all grease, and serve hot with ragodts, etc.

Truffics on Minced Toast.

Truffes en Croustades.

Prepare the Truffies as in the recipe “a I’'Espagnole,” or simply “a la Provencale,” that is, slice them very fine, let them stew or sauté well in butter, seasoning well with salt and pepper and the clove of a garlic minced very fine. When done, add the juice of a lemon. Cut some slices of bread in fancy shapes, and fry in butter, or toast them. Cover each piece with some of the Ragoit of Truffles, and serve hot. 4 Truffies.

VEGETABLE PEAR.

Mirliton.

The Vegetable Pear, or ‘Mirliton,” as the Creoles have named this vegetable, belongs to the gourd family. It is known to botanists usually as the “One-Seeded Cucumber.” Like almost all the gourds, the plant is a vine, and is trained on trellises, fences or arbors around the home. It is not only a very ornamental vine, but an abundant bearer. The fruit, if properly prepared, is a delightful dish, and is of a finer flavor than eggplants, squash, or pumpkins. It may be cooked in a half dozen ways, stuffed and stewed and fried, as the eggplant (see recipes), or stewed or baked, like the pumpkin, squash or cashaw. It is particularly fine when prepared like stewed cashaw. (See recipe.) It may also be made into fritters, like eggplant.

MELONS.

Des Melons.

“The New Orleans market cannot be excelled in the variety of Melons produced in the beginning of summer, and even until late in the fall. Especially is this the case with the Muskmelon or Cantalaup. No Northern variety of melons can compare with our special varieties, and it is a common saying that Louisiana sun is needed to bring the seed to perfection. Muskmelons and Watermelons are among our most common articles of food, and are within the reach of all classes, rich and poor, white and black.

MUSKMELON.

Cantaloup.

Muskmelons, or Cantaloups, are cultivated extensively in the vicinity of New Orleans. They are served both as a fruit and as a desert—as a fruit at the beginning of breakfast, and as a desert at the close of luncheon or dinner. The melon is always served very cold, being kept on ice several hours before it is used. It is cut in halves, cleansed of seed, and crushed ice is placed in each half. WATERMELON.

Melon d’Eau.

The Watermelon is as great a favorite for. luncheon and dinner and supper desserts as is the Muskmelon for breakfast. Indeed, at all _ hours during the summer, except in the early forenoon, a watermelon is considered most refreshing and welcome. The Creoles, as a rule, cut the melon in great round slices, so that each person may have a piece of the heart” of the fruit; or it may be cut in lengthwise slices, according to taste. The practice of “scooping the melon out with a spoon,” and thus serving it, is not favored by the Creoles.

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GARDEN HERBS.

The old-time garden herbs are part of every well-regulated Creole kitchen garden. Thyme, Sage, Rosemary, Mint, Sweet Marjoram, Basil, Lavender, Anise, Carraway, Bene, Borage, Catnip, Coriander, Dill, Fennel, Horehound, Pot Marigold, Pennyroyal, Rue, Summer Savory, Tansy, Tarragon, Wormwood—all are used by Creole housewives, either for culinary, or for medicinal purposes. ‘The Bouquet Garni,” or herb bouquet, has already been spoken of in the beginning of this book. To prepare such herbs as Sage, Thyme, Summer Savory, Mint, Basil, or any of the sweet or medicinal herbs, for winter use, the Creole gathers them perhaps from her own little garden patch or procures them from the markets. After examining them well, and discarding all poor or sickly-looking sprigs, she washes‘and shakes the herbs. Then she ties them into small bundles, and fastens a very thin piece of cloth about them, to keep them from picking up dust. The herbs are then hung, leaves downwards, in a warm, dry place. In a few days they will be thoroughly dry and brittle. She then picks all the leaves off, and puts them in clean, large-mouthed bottles, and corks and labels them. When needed for use, they are rubbed very fine between the fingers and passed through a sieve. The bottle is always kept corked, as exposure to the air will cause the herbs to lose strength and flavor.

Herbs, such as Sweet Marjoram, Thyme, etc., are in daily use in our kitchens. In like manner the Creole housewife gathers the leaves of the Laurel, or Bay Leaf, and, after washing and drying them thoroughly, she bottles them tightly. But fresh herbs were nearly always to be found in the old Creole gardens.

CHAPTER XXX Hore d’Oceuvrca.

Hors d’Oeuvres are relishes and may be served either hot or cold. Ordinarily, in daily household life, only the cold hors d’oeuvres, such as cress, celery, olives, radishes, etc., are served; they are set upon the tables as a decoration and passed as appetizers or relishes between the courses. At more formal affairs, hot hors d’oeuvres are often served, although both kinds may be eaten at the same dining.

Cold Relishes.

Hors d’Oeutres Frotds.

Radishes, Celery, Olives, Cress, Lettuce, Roquette, Pickled Onions, Sliced Cucumbers, Sliced Tomatoes, Pickles, Mangoes, Melons, Anchovies, Sardines, Lyonnaise Sausage (Saucissons Lyonnaise), Bread and Butter, Crackers, Anchovy Sandwiches, Ham _ Sandwiches, Cheese Sandwiches, Bologna Sausage cut and sliced, Cold Ham, Pig’s Feet, a Crawfish Bush (Buisson d’Ecrevisses), a Shrimp Bush (Buisson de Chevrettes), Boiled Crawfish, River Shrimp on Ice, Oysters on Half Shell, Raw Oysters, Sliced or Quartered Lemon, Salted Almonds, Salted Peanuts, Canapés of Caviar, Ham, Crab, etc., all these come under this head.

Hot Relishes.

Hore d'Oeuvres Chauds.

Petits Patés au Jus (or small hot patties of meats, etc.), Boudins Noirs et Blancs (Boudin Sausages, white and black), Rissoles, Sausages with or without Truffles, Rognons a la Brochette, or Broiled Kidneys, Pig’s Feet, Bouchées d’Huitres or Oyster Patties, Fried Brains (whether of mutton or veal), Calf’s Feet, Oxtail with Vinegar or Mustard Sauce,

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Although most of the above named Hors d’Oeuvres, hot or cold, have been already treated in special departments, whether of vegetables or meats, the subjoined recipes have been especially prepared, the number and variety of Creole Hors d’Oeuvres being such as to warrant a special chapter on the subject.

Anchovics in OiL Anchota @ VHutle.

1 Pint Bottle of Boned Anchovies. Take the contents of one pint bottle of boned Anchovies; drain them of all oil on a cloth and then arrange neatly in a flat glass or china dish. Decorate nicely with a hard-boiled egg, hashed or sliced daintily, sprinkle over the top some chopped parsley Sardines in Oil.

Sardines & VHuile.

1 Box of Sardines.

Take the sardines carefully from the box and avoid breaking them. Decorate a dish nicely with sprigs of parsley or watercress and lay the sardines upon it and serve.

Coquilles of Chicken, Creole Style. Coguilles de Volaille @ la Créole. The Breast of a Roasted Chicken. 1 Ounce of Butter.

‘ 1 Truffie.

4 Mushrooms. 1 Dozen Godiveau Quenelles.

1% Pints of Espagnole Sauce. Cut the chicken into dice-shaped pieces; place an ounce of butter in a@ saucepan; add the chicken and four mushrooms and one _ truffle minced. Make a dozen small Godiveau Quenelles (see recipe), add them to the mixture in the saucepan; pour over a half pint of Sauce Espagnole (see recipe), stir well and let all cook for five minutes. Fill a half dozen table shells neatly with this mixture. Sprinkle grated fresh bread crumbs over the tops, spread a little melted butter over each and place the shells on a baking dish. Let them brown to a beautiful golden color in a very hot oven for about six minutes. Place a folded napkin on a dish, set the shells upon it and send to the table hot.

Cromesquies With Truffles. Cromesquies aug Truffes.

1 Roasted Chicken. 2 Truffles. 1 pint of Veloutée Sauce.

6 Pieces of Crépinette.

Salt and Pepper to Taste. A Dash of Roast the chicken, then bone and hash the meat. Make a pint of Veloutée Sauce, chop the truffles very fine and place the chicken, the truffles and sauce in a frying-pan together. Season to taste with salt and pepper, and add a dash of nutmeg. Cover and let all cook for ten minutes, occasionally, however, stirring to prevent burning. Then take from the fire and let cool by pouring into a flat dish. Spread out to about an inch in thickness and divide into six parts. Prepare six pieces of Crépinette and roll each one of the six parts of chicken into the skin. Have ready a flour batter and dip each Crépinette into the batter and fry in boiling lard for five "minutes, or until slightly brown. Drain thoroughly on a cloth, place a nice folded napkin on a dish. Set the comesquies upon it; decorate with fried parsley and serve hot. Cromesquies of game. veal or any meats may be made in the same manner.

Creole Timbales.

Timbales Créoles.

2 Raw Chicken Breasts.

1 Cup of Bread Soaked in Milk, The Yolks of Four Eggs.

3 Tablespoonfuls of Veloutée Sauce. 6 Plain Pancakes. 1 Gill Espagnole Cut up into medium-sized pieces two raw chicken breasts; pound them in a mortar with the same quantity of bread soaked in milk, a half tablespoonful of fresh butter and the yolks of four eggs; season with salt and pepper and a dash of Cayenne; mix all well together, and then, mix in a bowl with three tablespoonfuls of Veloutée Sauce. (See recipe.) Butter one half dozen small timbale molds and line them with the plain pancake. (See recipe.) Fill the molds with the chicken mixture and cover with small round pieces of pancake. Steam them in a moderate oven for

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about ten minutes. Then take out of the oven and remove the timbales from the mold; garnish a hot dish nicely with sprigs of parsley, place the timbales upon it; pour over a gill of hot Sauce Espagnole and send to the table at once..

Queen of the Carnival Croustades, Croustades @ la Reine du Carnival. 6 Quenelles (Chicken or Godiveau). 1 Sweetbread. 6 Kidneys.

1% Pints of Allemande Sauce. ¥% Pound of Foundation Paste. Cracker Dust for Filling.

Prepare six Quenelles, either Chicken or Godiveau (see recipe) and place in a saucepan. Season with a little salt and pepper. Add the mushrooms and the truffies all cut into dice-shaped pieces. Put one and a half pints of hot Allemande Sauce into the mixture. Let all stand on the hot stove for five minutes and in the meanwhile spread out a quarter of a pound of Foundation Paste (Paté-aFoncer, see recipe) to the thickness of an eighth of an inch; line six tartlet molds with this and fill with cracker crumbs that have been pounded into a dust. Cover with a buttered paper and set in the oven and bake for ten minutes. Then take out, remove all the cracker dust and fill the molds with the hot mixture of chicken, etc. Set in the oven for three minutes, dress nicely on a hot dish and serve immediately. Lamb Sweet Breads in Cases, Riz de Veau d’Agneau en Petites Caisses, 6 Lamb Sweetbreads.

1 Small Onion. 1 Shallot. 6 Mushrooms. 1 Cup of Sauce Espagnole.

Clean and pare and blanch the sweetbreads. (See recipe.) Then set aside to cool. Lard nicely with very fine larding needles. Put two tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan and add the sweetbreads. Spread well with onion, shallot, mushrooms, clove of garlic and parsley, all minced very fine. Cover with a piece of buttered paper and set in the oven for ten minutes or until they are a nice golden brown color. Then take out of the oven and set the sweetbreads aside on a dish. Put the saucepan on the stove and add a cup of Sauce Espagnole (see recipe). Let all cook for five minutes. Have ready six small boxes of buttered paper; pour a little of the gravy into the bottom of each case, then place a sweetbread in each and set in a baking dish; put the dish in the open oven for five minutes; then arrange a napkin nicely in a dish, set the cases of sweetbreads upon it and send to the table hot. Macaroni Croquettes.

Croquettes de Macaront.

% Tablespoonful of Grated Parmesan 1 Tablespoonful of Cooked Smoked Tongue, Cut Very Fine.

1 Minced Truffle. 1 Egg.

3 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Fresh Bread, Crumbs.

Boll the Macaroni. (See recipe.) Then drain well. Put a tablespoonful of butter into a saucepan, add the Macaroni, and sprinkle over the grated cheese and the minced smoked tongue and truffle. Toss all together nicely and then spread out evenly. Then set aside to cool. When cool, cut the preparation into six equal parts and roll each in grated Parmesan cheese, then in a well-beaten egg, and afterwards in. freshly-grated bread crumbs. Have ready a pan of boiling lard, fry the Croquettes in the lard for five minutes, then drain well, place on a dish on a folded napkin Royal Salpicon.

Salpicon Royale.

Sweetbreads. 1 Tablespoonful of 1 Pint of Sauce Allemande, Clean, pare and blanch the sweetbreads. Then cut into very small pieces and put them into a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter; let them sauté a moment and then add the mushrooms and truffles all cut very fine. Add a pint of Sauce Allemande (see recipe), and let the mixture cook on a slow fire for six or eight minutes, tossing gently all the while. Add a teaspoonful of butter, stir well and use for any garnishing desired.

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Salpicon, Hunters’ Style.

Balpicon @ la Chasseur.

The Breasts of Two Fine Partridges. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 12 Whole Peppers.

6 Blanched Chicken Livers. 1 Carrot.

1 Ounce of Cooked Beef Tongue. 2 Truffles. 6 Mushrooms.

1 Sprig of Thyme. Square Inch of Lean Ham.

1% Quarts of Consommé or Broth. Cut the Breasts of the Partridges into dice-shaped pieces, and then put them into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter. Add the blanched chicken livers, the truffle cut into dice-shaped pieces and the mushrooms cut very fine. Have already prepared a “Fumet of Game,” made by placing one carrot, one-half of a small onion, one bay leaf, one square inch of ham, one sprig of thyme, and the carcass of the-partridges into a covered saucepan with a tablespoonful of butter. Let these brown well, and when they begin to boil moisten with one quart of broth or consommé, and salt and pepper to taste; add twelve whole black peppers. Let all cook for three-quarters of an hour, until it is reduced to a pint, and strain through a napkin. Add this to the salpicon and let all cook for five minutes longer. Use as a garnish for any dish desired.

Creole Salpicon.

Ralpicon @ la Créole, 2 Dozen Crawfish. 3 Tomatoes. 1 Dozen Mushrooms.

1 Pint of Boiling Milk.

1 Herb Bouquet. 12 Whole Black Peppers.

Put two tablespoonfuls of butter into a saucepan and add the flour; stir constantly for about five minutes. Then moisten well with the milk, pouring it in gradually and then whisking. Add the grated nutmeg, salt to taste, and the twelve whole peppers. Add the herb bouquet minced fine, and let all cook for a quarter of an hour. Then rub well through a sieve; and put into a saucepan with the tomatoes, skinned and chopped fine, and the meat of the crawfish cut into dice-shaped pieces, and the minced mushrooms. Let all cook for five minutes and serve Louisiana Salpicon.

Salpicon Louisianaise.

50 Lake Shrimp. 1 Dozen Mushrooms. 1 Truffle. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 1 Grated Nutmeg. 1 Herb Bouquet. 3 Tomatoes.

Clean and scale the Shrimp and boil according to recipe. Then follow in all particulars the recipe given above for Salpicon Creole; only adding a truffle to the minced vegetables. Send to the table hot.

Salpicon & la Montgias.

Salpicon @ la Montgias.

The Breasts of Two Small Chickens, or Any Game.

1 Ounce of Lean Ham.

1 Gill of Espagnole Sauce. 1 Gill of Tomato Sauce.

6 Mushrooms. 1 Truffle.

Mince the breasts of the chicken or game very fine, mince the ham truffies and mushrooms, and put all into a satcepan with a gill of Sauce Espagnole. Let all cook for five minutes, and then use as a garnish. Salpicon, Financier Style.. Salpicon @ la Financiere, The Legs and Breasts of a Chicken. 1 Dozen Small Godiveau Quenelles. 1 Square Inch of Ham. 1 Truffle. Cut the chicken into dice-shaped pieces, and put into a saucepan with the butter, add the square inch of ham, the truffles and mushrooms, all minced fine; then add twelve small Godiveau Quenelles. (See recipe.) Add a pint of Sauce Espagnole (see recipe); set on the stove, and let all cook for five or eight minutes, and the Salpicon is ready to be served as a garnish for any dish desired. Reed Bird Patties.

Patés d’Ortolans.

1 Dozen Reed Birds. 1 Salpicon Royal. % Pound of Foundation Paste. Pick and clean the birds and season well; then bind each with a thin strip of bacon. Make a Foundation Paste (PA&té-a-Foncer) and line six patty molds with this. Put in a moderate oven and bake for fifteen minutes; then empty them and let them dry well in the open oven for five minutes. Let them cool. Then fill the bottom of each mold with a tablespoonful of Salpicon Royal (see recipe), and place in each mold two of

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ST the nicely prepared birds. Lay the patties on a baking dish or roasting pan, set them in a moderately hot oven and let them roast for fifteen or twenty minutes. Then remove from the oven, moisten each patty with a tablespoonful of hot Sauce’ Espagnole, and send to the table at once. Tamales.

Des Tamales.

1 Tender Young Chicken.

1 Cup Bolled Irish Potatoes. 1 Large Onion. 1 Clove of Garlic. 2 Springs of Parsley. 1 Bay Leaf. 1 Spring of Thyme. 1 Spoon of Butter. 1 Cup of Cracker Crumbs.

A Good Dash of Cayenne.

Boil a young chicken until the meat can be picked off the bones. Then chop up very fine. Mince the onion, clove of garlic, thyme, bay leaf, and parsley, very fine. Put the onion and butter into a saucepan and let brown slightly, and add the minced garlic, thyme, parsley and bay leaf. Add the chicken immediately, a cup of mashed potatoes and one of grated cracker crumbs. Stir well, and season to taste with salt and Chili pepper. Add a good dash of Cayenne for this is a very hot dish. Mix all well by stirring and let cook for five minutes. Have ready a pot of boiling water and about a dozen nice, clean cornshuck leaves. Cut the leaves into neat oblong shapes, and divide the chicken mixture into equal parts. Roll each part in a corn leaf, tie up tightly and immerse. in boiling water for five minutes. Then drain off the water, arrange the husks on a dish and send to the table hot. Pickled Tunny Thon Mariné.

In New Orleans we get the tunny only in its pickled or other prepared states. Take a radish or flat celery dish; decorate nicely with fresh parsley springs, or cress, or asparagus tips; lay the tunny upon it, and serve as a cold Hors d’Oeuvre.

Lyonnaise Sausage.

Sauciassons de Lyonnaise.

12 Thin Slices of Lyonnaise Sausage. Parsley Springs to Garnish. Cut from a medium-sized Lyonnaise Sausage twelve nice and very thin slices; decorate a dish neatly with parsley leaves on the outer edges. Lay the Saucisson de Lyons in the center and serve as a cold Hors d’Oeuvre.

CHAPTER XXXI BRE SSNS EL AES FET ENTREMEN Ria ==> — ———————— Dea Entrements Sucrés.

Sweet entrées and entremets are not the least part of the real Creole culsine. The French colonists brought the custom of serving sweet entremets and entrées, such as Beignets, Compotes, Souffiés Gelées, etc., from the mother country to Louisiana. The Creoles applied these to the various fruits which abound in Louisiana. ‘When the little Creole children, taking a peep into the kitchen, as children will do in every clime, saw that the fat and cheery old negro cook was going to make Apple Fritters, Orange Fritters or cook fried bananas for dinner, thére was always some very endearing term applied to the old cuisiniére, and she never failed to respond in the wholesome and practical way that the cooks of those days did, by handing a golden beignet, piled with snowy sugar, to the expectant little ones. ' Des Beignets The most important rule to be observed in making fritters, whether of fruit or plain, is to have the batter of the proper consistency. This is particularly important in making fruit fritters. ‘La Pate & Beignets,”

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must be of sufficient consistency to envelop in one single immersion the fruit or other substance with which it is intended to make the fritters. Fritter Batter, Creole Stylc. Paté a Beignete a la Créole. 1 Cup Flour. 2 Eggs. 2 Tablespoontfuls, Lemon Juice. % Teaspoonful of Salt. Cold Water. 1 Tablespoonful Butter, elted.

Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and add the flour, beating very light. Now add the melted butter and the lemon juice, and thin with water to the consistency of a very thick starch. Add the whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, and then dip the fruit into this, immersing well at one dipping. Lift out with a large cooking spoon, drop into the boiling lard, and fry to a golden brown. The batter must be thick enough to coat the fruit all around in one immersion, yet it must not be so thick as to be over-heavy or tough.

Many of the Creoles vary the flavor of the batter to suit the fruit which they intend to make into fritters. A fruit fritter must always be sprinkled nicely and lightly with powdered sugar, and, if served as an entremet, it must be hot. Fruit fritters often take the place of desserts among the poorer Creole families.

French Fritter Batter Paté & Bcignete a la Francaiee. 1 Cup of Sifted Flour. % Cup of Cold Water. 2 Exes. Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Best Olive Oil. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Orange Flower Water. % Teaspoonful of Salt. Beat the whites well into a stiff froth. Beat the yolks of the eggs into the flour until very light, and add the sugar, blending well. Add orange flower water, and beat light, and then add the water and oil, making the batter of the consistency of a very thick starch. Now add the whites of the egg, beat well, and proceed to drop in the fruit, as in above Plain Fritters Beignets de Paté, 1 Pint of Flour. 1 Pint of Milk. 4 Eggs. The Rind of Half a Lemon. ¥% Cup of Sugar. Flavoring to Taste, whites separately. Sift the baking powder into the flour, and add the yolks of the eggs. Beat well and add the milk, and flavoring of orange or vanilla to taste. (The flavoring may be omitted altogether.) Add the rind of a lemon, grated very fine, and one-half a teaspoon of salt. Lastly, add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth, and have the batter of such consistency that it will pour from the spoon. Drop it in the boiling lard by large kitchen spoonfuls, and let it fry to a golden yellow. (See General Directions for Frying.) Lift out with a skimmer, drain well and place on a heated dish, and sprinkle freely with powdered white sugar, and serve hot. In arranging the fritters in the dish make them rise into a pretty pyramid and sprinkle with the sugar. Never pierce fritters with a fork, as it will cause the steam to evaporate and make them heavy. A fritter that is well made should be light and puffy. Plain Fritter Batter for Meats, Poultry, Etc.

Paté 2 Beignets pour les Yolatlles, etc.

1 cup of Flour. 1 Cup of Water. 2 Eggs. % Teaspoontul of Salt. flour together, and add the melted butter and salt. Then add the water, beat very well and finally add the whites of the eggs, beaten td a stiff froth. Half a teaspoonful of baking powder may be added, if desired. If the eggs are well beaten, however, there will be no need for the baking powder.

This batter is used in making pork, kidney or chicken fritters, or fritters of left-over meats, and also for all meats or fish which must be rolled in batter.

Viandes, Ics Apple Fritters Beignets de Pommes.

3 Fresh Apples.

Grated Peel of % Lemon.

Powdered Sugar.

Peel and core the apples, which will be all the nicer if they are a little tart. Cut the apples into slices, thick or thin according to taste, though the thin slices are oftener recommended. Sprinkle with the grated rind of a lemon and with sugar, as desired, although two _ tablespoonfuls of sugar should be sufficient for the rind of half a lemon. Make a

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—eeeSeSeSeEeSeSeSeSeSNSSe patter & la Créole and have ready @ deep saucepan of boiling lard. Drain the apples. Dip the slices one at a time, into the batter, lift out with a large kitchen spoon, drop into the boiling lard, and fry to a golden brown. Then lift out with a skimmer, and set on a brown paper, in the mouth of the oven, and drain. Sift powdered white sugar over them, and serve hot, piling high in pyramidal shape, -and sprinkling again with powdered white sugar. Serve as an entremet or as a dessert. Apricot Fritters.

Beignets d’Abricote.

6 Fresh or a Half Can of Apricots. Grated Lemon Peel.

If the apricots are fresh, peel and stone them, and cut into halves. Then sprinkle them with the grated rind of a lemon and.sugar. Then drain off the liquor. Make a Fruit Fritter Batter a la Créole, and have ready a saucepan filled deep with boiling lard. Dip the apricots, one by one, into the batter, and drop from the spoon into the lard, and let them fry to a golden. brown. In serving, proceed in exactly the same manner as in the directions given for Apple Fritters. (See recipe.) Banana Fritters Beignets de Bananes.

3 Bananas. Fritter Batter & la Créole. Make a Fritter Batter a la Créole. Peel the bananas and then cut them in halves. Slice them nicely, always lengthwise. Dip in the fritter batter, and proceed to cook and serve as in the recipe for Apple Fritters. The bananas may also be cut into round slices. In this case two or three slices at a time must be put in each fritter. The lengthwise shape, however, is recommended.

- Brioche Fritters.

Beignets de Bridches.

3 Small Brioches.

1 Tablespoonful of Essence of Vanilla, r Orange Flower Water.

ote eritt fe Powdered White Creole Fritter Batter.

Cut the Brioche (see recipe under chapter on Breads) into slices, more or less thin, and soak them in sweetened milk, to which you have added the essence of orange flower water. vanilla or lemon. Drop them into a light fritter batter, or simply drop them into boiling lard, fry to a golden. yellow, sprinkle with white sugar, and Cherry Fritters Betgnets de Cerises.

1 Pint of Fine Cherries.

1 Tablespoonful of Sugar.

The Rind of a Lemon.

Prepare the cherries by taking out the stones. Make them into a thick marmalade. Soak nice slices of bread in milk and egg, seasoned well with a tablespoonful of sugar and the grated rind of a lemon. Spread the marmalade over the _ well-soaked slices, making it adhere very thickly and closely. Then fry in boiling lard, sprinkle lightly with powdered sugar, and serve hot. Or mix the cherries in Creole Fritter Batter, drop by spoonfuls into the boiling lard, fry to a golden brown, drain in the oven, and sprinkle with powdered white sugar 1 Ege:

Corn Fritters Beignets de Farine de Mats. 1 Pint of Cornmest Pint of Boiling 1 Tablespoonfui of Butter. 3 Eggs. % Cup of Sugar. Flavoring % Spoonful of Salt.

cornmeal together, and add the melted butter and the milk, stirring end beating well. Add the salt and any flavoring extract preferred, and, last, the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Fry in boiling lard, dropping the batter by spoonfuls. By omitting the sugar you can make nice corn cakes to eat with butter. In this case do not use the same quantity of lard, but fry the cakes on a griddle. Elderfiower Fritters Beignets 2 la Fleur de Sureau. 1 Cup of Tender White Elder Flowers. White of 2 Eggs. Creole Fritter Batter. Select a sufficient quantity of beautiful. tender white flowers, and soak them in the white of two eggs, beaten to a snowy froth, and well blended with white sugar. Dip them by spoonfuls into the fritter batter, and fry according to directions.

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rr Fig Fritters ~ Beignets de Figues.

1 Pint of Fresh Figs.

Creole Fritter Batter.

Pare the figs, taking off every particle of the skin. Then cut up nicely, sprinkle with sugar and let them: stand for half an hour. Then add the juice to fritter batter and proceed as in Apple Fritters. (See recipe.) Fritters Souffé & la Vanille Beignets Souffés & la Vanille 3 Ounces of Flour. 1 Tablespoonful L Pint of Milk:

1 Tablespoonful of Sugar.

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. The White of 1 Ege.

1 Spoonful of Whipped Cream. 1 Vanilla Bean. Powdered White Sugar. Put the milk into a saucepan and infuse the vanilla bean, letting the milk reduce to one-half. Then remove all the bean, add a tablespoonful of butter, and, when it comes to a good boil, add the flour, well sifted; stir briskly till a stiff paste is formed that will not adhere to the saucepan. Then take off the fire and add an ounce of powdered white sugar that has been beaten well with the yolks of two eggs; have ready the white of one egg beaten to a stiff froth, and mix a spoonful of whipped cream with this, and add to the paste. Mix well, and then roll the paste out on a flour board that has been slightly sprinkled with flour, and sprinkle lightly on top with the flour, Cut into small cakes, drop into very hot lard, and let them cook to a golden brown. Then arrange nicely on a dish, sift powdered sugar over them, and send to the table hot.

Lemon Fritters Beignets de Citron.

1 Pint of Creole Fritter Batter. Make a plain Creole batter for fruit fritters, and add the juice of a lemon, and sugar to taste, and proceed as directed in cooking and serving Apple Orange Fritters Beignets d'Oranges.

2 Large Louisiana Oranges. Creole Fritter Batter.

Pare the oranges, taking off every particle of the white inner skin. Then slice nicely, and take out the seeds. Sprinkle with sugar, and lét them stand for an hour. Then add the juice to the fritter batter, and proceed as in Apple Fritters. Or, better still, place the oranges thus sliced over a slow fire, add a little water and several tablespoonfuls of sugar, and let them cook till you have a light marmalade. Take it off, let it cool, cover the slices of orange well with the jellied juice, dip in the batter, and proceed as directed in recipe for Apple Fritters. (See recipe.) Peach Fritters Beignets de Péches.

6 Fresh or Canned Peaches (% Can). Grated Lemon Peel.

If the peaches are fresh, peel and stone them, and cut in halves. Then sprinkle them with the grated rind of a lemon and sugar. Cover and set aside for two hours. Then drain off the Hquor. Make a Fruit Fritter Batter a la Créole, and have ready a saucepan filled deep with boiling lard. Dip the peaches, one by one, into the batter, and drop from the spoon into the lard, and let them fry to a golden brown. Then proceed in exactly the same manner of serving as in the directions given for Apple Fritters. Pear Fritters Beignets de Poires.

3 Fresh Pears or 4 Canned Pears. Grated Lemon Peel. Powdered Sugar. Wash and peel the pears, which will be all the nicer if they are a little tart. Take out the seeds and cores. Cut them into slices, more or less thick or thin, according to taste. The thin slices are recommended. Sprinkle with the rind of a lemon and sugar, according to judgment. Two tablespoonfuls of sugar should be sufficient. Make a batter a la Créole and have ready a deep saucepan of boiling lard. Drain the pears. Dip the slices, one at a time, into the batter; lift out with a large kitchenspoon, drop into the boiling lard, and fry to a golden brown. Then lift out with a skimmer, and set on brown paper, in the mouth of the oven, and drain. Sift powdered white sugar over them, and serve hot, piling high in pyramidal shape, and sprinkling again

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a with powdered white sugar. Serve as an entremet or as a dessert. The liquor may be omitted, and the pears simply cut into very thin slices; then they may be dipped into batter and fried. Serve as directed above. Pincapple Fritters Beignets d’Ananas.

% a Pineapple. Fritter Batter. Slice the pineapple, and cut the slices in halves. Then proceed as in Apple Fritters. Or, simply sprinkle with sugar, let them stand one hour, add the juice to the fritter batter, and proceed as above.

Pineapple Cream Fritters Beigneta d’Ananas a la Creme. a Pineapple. Cup of Sugar. % Cream Puff Paste.

For these fritters it is necessary to make a Cream Paste. (See recipe.) Prepare the pineapple as in the above recipe; then dip in the Cream Puff Paste and proceed as in Apple Fritters. (See recipe.) Queen Fritters Beignets a la Reine.

1 Cup Cream Puff Filling.

A Cream Puff Batter.

% Cup of Grated Almonds.

Peach Sauce.

Prepare a Cream Puff Batter and a Cream Puff Filling. (See recipe.) if the flavor of almonds is desired add a few finely grated almonds. Have ready the frying pan, with boiling lard. Roll the cream batter into small balls, and fry till they swell to the size of an egg. Skim out with a skimmer, and drain, and, when cold, split one side with a very sharp knife, and fill with the filling; close, and continue till all are filled. Serve cold with Peach Sauce.

Rice Fritters Beignets de Riz.

1 Cup of Cold Rice.

1 Tablespoonful of Butter. Yolks of 2 S88.

1 Tablespoonful of Orange or Lemon Essence.

A Pinch of Cinnamon.

Take one cup of cold rice, mash it well, and then pass through a sieve. Season with the orange essence or lemon, a pinch of cinnamon, and a tablespoonful of butter. Add the beaten yolks of two eggs. Then make the rice into small boulettes or balls, roll in a beaten egg, fry to a golden brown, sprinkle with white sugar and Sago Croquettes Croquettes de Sagou, Equal Parts of Sago Marmalade and Rice Croquettes.

Creole Fritter Batter.

Prepare Croquettes of Rice (see recipe), adding equal parts of Sago Marmalade. Dip in fritter batter, and fry to a golden brown, and serve with a sauce.

Strawberry Fritters Beignets de Fratses 1 Pint of Fine, Large Strawberries. Grated Rind of % Lemon.

For this purpose have fine, large strawberries. Make a Fritter Batter & la Créole, only just before adding the whites of the eggs add the grated rind of half a lemon. The batter must be of the consistency of thick cream. Stem the strawberries, and drop them into the batter. Proceed to fry as in recipe given for Apple Fritters (see recipe), allowing two or three strawberries to each fritter. Or make a marmalade of the strawberries, keeping them whole, and proceed as in Orange Fritters. (See Sweet Omelet Fritters Beignets d’Omelette au Sucre A Plain Omelet.

Creole Fritter Batter. Powdered White Make an omelet (see recipe), and add two tablespoonfuls of sugar. Cook it nicely and very soft, and then cut it into small slices. Plunge these into the fritter batter, let them fry to a golden brown, and then drain in the mouth of the oven on brown pepper. Place in a heated dish, sprinkle well with fine white sugar, and serve hot. Stewed Apples Compote de Pommeas.

6 Apples, Large and Firm.

Sugar to Taste. The Rind of Half an 1 Blade Mace.

1 Stick Ground Cinnamon.

Allspice.

Pare the apples aud cut into quarters or semi-quarters, removing the 4 Ground

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———— ed cores and seeds. Add half a cup of water. Put them into an agate or a porcelain-lined saucepan, and strew generously with sugar. Let them simmer gently for half an hour. Then add the rind of half an orange, grated, and the ground spices. Let all simmer gently till they form a rich, tender compote, that is, until there is not the least part left underdone. This compote may be served hot during the meal, or it may be used as a dessert, with cream or milk. Apples may be stewed whole in the same manner, only remember to extract the core with a fine knife.

Baked Apples Pommes Rotica.

6 Fine Apples.

6 Spoonfuls of Sugar. 1 Cupful of Cut the blossom end of the apple, and wash, but do not peel. Set them in a baking pan, heap a spoonful of sugar over each in the little place scooped out at the blossom end, and pour a cupful of water in the bottom of the pan. Set in the oven, and bake till very tender, basting them very often to keep them soft. Place in a dish, pour over the syrup, and serve either hot or cold. They are much nicer served cold, with a glass of milk. They are then used as a dessert. Fried Apples Pommes Frites.

3 Fine Apples. Boiling Lard. % Cup of White Powdered Sugar. Pare the apples and cut into round slices. Fry them to a delicate golden brown in a pan of boiling lard. Place them in a heated colander, in which you have fitted a piece of brown paper. Drain in the mouth of the oven. Place in a dish, and sprinkle with sugar, and serve hot with roast meat, roast pork, etc.

Apple Charlotte Charlotte de Pommes.

6 Large Apples. 6 Apricots. 1 Cup of Sugar, or Sugar to Taste. Pare the apples and then cut them into slices, taking out the seeds and cores. Now put them in a saucepan with three large tablespoonfuls of butter. Add a little water to stew gently, and add the apricots, if wou have them. In this case use four tablespoonfuls of butter and ground cinnamon, and allspice to taste. Tet all cook to a nice marmalade. Then take off and add a quarter of a grated nutmeg. Then cut six slices of bread and butter well. Butter a pan and garnish it around the bottom and sides with the slices of bread, which must be very thin. Then fill with the apples, and cover on top with the bread. Dot with butter and sprinkle with sugar, and put in an oven and bake to a golden brown. When done, carefully loosen the edges and turn into a dish. Serve it hot, with sugar and cream, or with a Custard Sauce. Cherry Charlotte Charlotte de Certses.

1 Pound Cherries. 1 Pound White Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls or Butter. Soft Bread Crumbs, Seed the cherries, and butter the bottom of a pudding dish. Cover the bottom with a layer of the bread crumbs, which must be soft. Then add a layer of the cherries, which have been cooked like the apples, into a marmalade, Sprinkle with sugar, and add another layer of cherries, and then a layer of bread crumbs, alternating till the dish is filled, letting the last layer be of crumbs, which you must dot with bits of butser. Put in an oven and bake for an hour. Serve cold with cream.

Currant Charlotte Oharlotte de Groseilles.

1 Pound of Currants.

1 Pound of White Sugar.

Soft Bread Crumbs.

Proceed exactly as for Cherry Charlotte, making a marmalade of the currants, and using the same proportion as above.

Raspberry or Blackberry Charlotte Charlotte de Frambotses ou de Mares. 1 Pound of Raspberries or Blackberries. 1 Pound of White Sugar.

Soft Bread Crumbs.

Stew the berries, making a marmalade, and proceed exactly as in the recipe for Cherry Charlotte.

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eee nn DEE Fruit Toasts With Cherries, Apricots or Raspberries Crodtes de Fruits auz Cerises, auz Abdricots ou aux Framboises.

6 Slices of French Toast. 1 Cup of Fruit Marmalade. Cream to Serve. Prepare thin slices of very dry French toast, and butter generously. Put them in a dish, and lay on each slice generous portions of the fruits you wish to serve. The fruit must be made into a marmalade. Pour any left-over syrup over the toast, and serve with cream.

Fried Bananas Bananes_Frites.

4 Bananas. Boiling Lard.

White Powdered Sugar.

Peel the bananas, and cut them tn two, lengthwise. Then slice lengthwise about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Have ready a pan of boiling lard. Lay the bananas in it, and fry brown first on one side and then on the other, sifting with a little powdered sugar. When done, skim out of the pan, place neatly in a dish, sprinkle with powdered sugar again, and serve hot, as an entrée. The banana stalls in the French Market are famous, and at every corner or so, here and there throughout the city, there are fruit stands, where the banana is always to be found in a perfect state, and very fresh and inviting. Bananas are also served in their natural state, as a fruit dessert. Orange Salad Balade d’Oranges.

6 Fine Louisiana Oranges. ' Peel the oranges whole, removing the rind entirely down to the tips of the stem end. Cut in slices, and cut out the seeds. Pile the oranges in a neat heap in a dish. Sprinkle with powdered sugar. Boil some sugar to a syrup, using about half a pound to a half pound of oranges and, when cold, pour it over the fruit. Stewed Peaches Compote de Péches.

10 Medium-Sized Peaches.

1 Pint of Cold Water.

% Pound of Granulated Sugar. Peel the peaches and cut them into quarters, carefully removing the stones. Put them into a saucepan, with a pint of cold water and a half pound of granulated sugar; set on the stove, and, when they begin to boil, skim well. Then let them cook for six minutes longer, stirring slowly; avoid mashing the peaches. Remove from the fire and pour the peaches into a dessert dish to cool. Serve cold, either plain or with cream. The peaches may be, boiled whole. DOUGHNUTS Crorignolies.

% Cup Sugar. 1 Pint of Milk. 3 Eggs. Flour in Sufficient Quantity to Make a Dough.

Scald the milk, and then add the butter, and let it stand and cool. When it has cooled, add the yeast and the sugar, and beat in the flour gradually. Beat well, and then cover, and set the mixture in-a warm place over night. But be careful to have the warmth only moderate. In the morning beat the eggs till very light, and stir them into the butter. Then add more flour, sufficient to make a dough, which must be soft. Knead this dough lightly, then put it away to rise. When it has risen well take one-half of the dough and roll it on the biscuit board, and then cut into doughnuts, using a large cake or biscuit cutter. Then take a small cutter and make a small hole in the center of each doughnut. They may also be cut into square shape, and slashed gently with the cutter or knife. Spread a clean towel over the table, and dust it lightly with flour, and let the doughnuts stand upon it for half an hour, being well covered. Let the frying kettle then be ready with boiling fat or lard. It must be so deep that the doughnuts can swim in it. Put the doughnuts into the boiling lard, and let them fry to a golden brown. Do not stick the doughnut through with a fork or it will fall fmmediately. When a beautiful dark golden brown drain out of the pan with a skimmer, place on a hot dish, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot. You will have the true Creole “Croxignolle.” PANCAKES. Orépes.

4 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Milk. Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs together. Then add the flour,

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SS and beat very light. Add the milk, pouring gradually, and having the batter no thicker than cream. Add the salt, and mix well. Now comes the most important part, the frying. Unless this is properly done your labor has come to naught. Have a wide pancake pan, and let it be very hot. Grease it with butter, or, better still, with a piece of fat bacon. This is the safest way, as you will not have a pencake swimming in grease, @ most undesirable offering at any table. Pour in batter sufficient to just cover the bottom of the pan. In a minute, or perhaps less time, the cake must be ready to turn. This is the critical moment that the old Creole cooks used to understand so well. By a peculiar sleight of hand that comes only by experience, the cake was tossed and caught in the pan, and the brown side was brought up without failure, and the cake lay just as smooth as though untouched. Those who wish to learn the art must begin slowly at first. If you have never tossed a pancake, and attempt to do it before you have caught the trick, you will make a miserable failure, and have only a mingled heap of batter. Go slowly, and learn. The old darkies used to say, when one of their number could toss a “crépe” to the top of the chimney and bring it down again slick and smooth, with the brown side up, tossing minute after minute, “like lightning,” that the woman was “for sure one hoodoo, and the old devil himself had taught her to toss and fry.” But the pancakes thus tossed savored neither of fire nor brimstone, and, when rolled up with infinite art and served very hot on a dainty china dish, they well merited the praises that masters and mistresses bestowed upon their faithful old slaves. “Crépes” may be served _28 an entrée at breakfast, dinner or supper. They make an _ excellent luncheon dish.

French Pancakes Crépes @ la Francaise, % Pound of Flour. 4 Eggs.

% Pint of Cold Milk.

Sift the flour into a bowl. Break in the eggs; beat well, and add one ounce of powdered sugar. Mix thoroughly with a spatula, and then add the cold milk, pouring it in gradually. Mix well for six minutes. Have ready a clean griddle; butter lightly, and, when hot, drop on it about two large spoonfuls of the batter at a time. Let the cakes bake two minutes on each side, and then turn and bake two minutes on the other. Lay the pancakes on a dish; sprinkle generously with powdered sugar. Continue baking the cakes as fast as possible, sprinkling each in turn with the powdered sugar till all the batter is used. The above quantity will make one dozen pancakes.

French Pancakes With Jelly Crépes Francatscs @ la Gélee. % Pound of Flour. 4 Eggs.

% Pint of Cold Milk.

-° 1 Glass of Jelly.

Prepare the batter exactly as in the above recipe. When the pancakes are nicely cooked arrange them neatly on a dish, and spread over each a half tablespoonful of apple, strawberry, currant, peach or any kind of jelly desired; then roll them up nicely, put them on a dessert dish and sprinkle powdered white sugar over them. Send to the table hot. Some glaze the surface of each pancake with a red hot iron. But this is a matter of taste entirely.

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CHAPTER XXXII Dea Desserts..

Desserts are many and varied. They comprise Compotes, Puddings, Pies and Pastry, Cakes, Ices, Creams, etc., all of which are specially treated in their own order.

COMPOTES Des Compotes.

Compotes are fruits preserved in very little sugar, and made as needed in the household. The fruits are always blanched, and a little sugar is added for them to absorb, and then they are put into dishes, and the syrup is poured over them. The Creoles often cut the fruits into many pretty shapes, especially apples and peaches, It is always better to blanch the fruits in thinned syrup than in water. To preserve the whitness of the peeled fruits they should be peeled as rapidly as possible, and put into the saucepan with the water or syrup and blanched only long enough to soften, then arranged in the dish and covered with the syrup. If the fruits are not ripe, they ought to be put into syrup over the fire to cook a little.

All Compotes may be served as desserts or entrements.

Compote of Apples Compote de Pommes.

1 Dozen Apples. 1 Pound of Sugar. Pare the apples, cut them in quarters, cut out the cores, and pierce them several times, to drain the juice. Boil six cored apples in one pound of sugar and a cup of water, and add the finely cut peel of a lemon, together with the lemon juice. When they are well blanched, take them out, without letting them cook too much, and place them in a dish. They must be soft, but not pithy. Put the apples that you have cut into quarters into the syrup, and let them boil to & jelly in the juice. Then drain well, and pour over the whole apples. Sprinkle with a little grated nutmeg and powdered sugar. This is excellent.

To make a compote of whole apples, first remove the core its whole length, by inserting a long tin cutter at one end, then at the other end, and with the finger forcing the core out. In this way you will not split the apple. Finish as in the above Stuffed Apple Compote Compote de Pommcs Farciea. 1 Dozen Apples. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Cup of Orange or Apricot Marmalade, Y% Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. Pare fine, large apples, take out the core, being careful to leave the apple entire. Then fill the opening with orange or apricot marmalade, and put them together in a pan with a pound of clarified sugar. Add a half cup of water. Let them cook soft in the oven, sprinkling first with grated cinnamon. Add grated nutmeg when done, and serve either hot or cold. Apricot Compote Compote d’Abricote.

1 Dozen Apricots. 1 Pound of Sugar. % Pound of Apple Jelly.

Cut the apricots in two, and peel. Rinse them in cold water, and then proceed to cook them in syrup made of sugar and a little water. Add a little Apple Jelly to the sugar after you have taken out the apricots. Mix the jelly well with the syrup, pour over the apricots and serve. Banana Compote Compote de Bananes, 1 Dozen Bananes. % Pound of Sugar. The Juice of Half a Lemon. Peel the Bananas and cut them into halves. Put the sugar and the water

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on to boil, and after ten minutes add the lemon juice. Then put the bananas, a few at a time, into the hot syrup and let them stew gently. After a half hour take them out, lay in a dish, pour over the hot liquid syrup, and serve either hot or cold. Compote of Banana Cassa Compote de Banane Cassa.

1 Banana Cassa.

¥% Teaspoonful Each of Ground Allspice, Cinnamon and Mace. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla or Lemon The “Banana Cassa” is a form of vegetable fruit that is very much used among the Creoles in making compotes, etc. It grows on a vine similar to the gourd of “Mirliton,” only, unlike the latter, it is considered a fruit, and is served as a dessert. It is a long, pear-shaped fruit, resembling the banana in color and odor and shape, only it is longer and broader. Hence the name, “Banana Cassa.” It is prepared as follows:

Wash the ripe fruit, peel it, and cut into slices of about an inch in thickness. Remove the seeds and place the fruit in a bowl of water, to which has been added a pinch of lime; or simply immerse in lime-water. Let it soak for éhree hours. Then remove it and rinse in cold water. Prepare a syrup, allowing one and a quarter pounds of granulated sugar to one quart of water, and when it begins to boil well add the fruit, ground spices and nutmeg, and let all boil until the fruit becomes transparent. If flavoring is preferred to the natural taste, add, according to taste, a tablespoonful of Extract of Lemon or Vanilla. Let it cool and serve as a dessert. It is delicious with Whipped Cream. Compote of Blackberries Compote de Mares.

1 Pound of Blackberries.

% a Cup of Water.

Select fing berries, but not too ripe. Wash them in cold water, and drain through a sieve. Boil the sugar and water, add the berries, and let them boil up once very gently. Pour them into a dish, pour the jelly over and Cherry Compote.

Compote de Cerisce 1 Quart of Cherries. Pound of Sugar, To one pound of stoned cherries allow the above amount of sugar. Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and when it makes a syrup add the cherries. Let them boil up several times. Then drain them with the skimming spoon, and put them in a dish, adding to the juice a glassful of Currant Jelly. Let it boil to a thin jelly, and pour it, when half cold, over the cherries. The Currant Jelly may be omitted and the reduced cherry syrup used alone.

Compote of Cocoanut Compote de Coco.

1 Cocoanut. The Juice of 1 Lemon. 1 Pound of Fine White Loaf Sugar. Divide the cocoanut into quarters. Peel off all the brown skin, and then soak the clean, white pieces in cold water, with a little lemon juice and a little salt. Cut them in thin slices first, and then in thick threadlike shreds, just as you would vegetables for Julienne soup. This must be done, however, before soaking in the lemon juice and salt. Then drain the shreds in a clean sieve, and wash them in another water, to free them entirely from oil. Drain well. Boil one pound of the finest white loaf sugar. Then remove it from the fire, and throw in the prepared cocoanut, and set back on the fire. Let it come to a good boil, stirring lightly with a silver fork. Then lift them out with the fork, after they have boiled up ofce, and place the cocoanut shreds in a sieve. Let the sugar boil up well again. Add the juice of a lemon to the syrup, boil it very thin, and then throw in the cocoanut shreds, mixing them very lightly in the syrup. Separate the shreds carefully with two silver forks, holding one fork in each hand; dish up in a raised pile in a dish; when cold, pour over the clear syrup, flavoring with any extract you wish, preferably Vanilla, and serve. Compote of Cranberries Compote d’Airelles, 1 Quart of Cranberries. 1% Pounds of Sugar. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Wash and drain the cranberries. Then boil as in Cranberry Jelly, only

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do not let the cranberries get mashed. Take them out with a skimmer, and add a half pound of sugar to the syrup, and the juice of a lemon. Boil to a syrup and pour over the berries and serve cold.

Compote of Currants Compote de Groseilcs.

1 Quart of Currants. % Pound of Sugar. Select nice berries and pick clean and wash well in cold water and drain them through a sieve. Boil the sugar and add the berries. Let them boil up once very gently. Put them in a dish, pour the syrup over them and serve. Compote of Damsons Compote de Prunes.

1 Quart of Damsons.

% Pound of Sugar. % Cup of Water. Pick off the stems of the damsons and prick them all over with a fork. Let them simmer in sugar, which has been well boiled to a syrup for about fifteen minutes. Then proceed as in a Compote of Cherries. (See recipe.) Compote of Dried Fruits Compote de Fruits Secs.

% Pound of-Dried_Fruit.

% Pound of Sugar. % Cup of Water. The Juice of 1 Lemoh.

All dried fruits, such as apples, peaches, apricots, crab apples, etc., are prepared in the same manner as compote of apples and peaches. Only allow the dried fruit to soak in cold water a long while, say about two hours, to swell up. Then boil, and afterwards pour into a syrup of bolling sugar, and proceed as in other compotes.

Compote of Figs Compote de Figues.

1 Quart of Figs. % Cup of Water. Use figs that are not quite ripe. Break off the stalks, and prick them all over, and let them simmer in a syrup, as above. Then proceed in exactly the same manner as for Compote of Cherries. (See recipe.) Figs, Creole Style Figues @ la Créol:.

1 Quart of Ripe Figs.

_ Stem and peel and cut the fies in quarters. (Figs are always abundant with us in August and September.) Place in a dish, sprinkle well with sugar, and serve with their own syrup, ice cold.

Compote of Lemons Compote de Citrona.

% Dozen Lemons.

1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Cup of Water. A Compote of whole lemons is prepared in exactly the same manner as the above, using twice the amount of sugar, or sugar to taste. When squeezed thoroughly and boiled they make an excellent remedy for colds and coughs.

Compote of Malaga Grapes * Compote de Raisins Blancs. 1 Pound of Malaga Grapes.

% Pound of Sugar. % Cup of Water. Wash the grapes, then cut a slit in each one on the side, and take out the seeds. Put the fruit in cold water, and let it boil. Take off the fire, and let it stand uncovered for a time, and then put in cold water. When cold lift them out with a skimming spoon. Put the grapes in clarified sugar, which has been well boiled almost to a thread, and let them boil up once. Skim them out-and put in a dish. Boil the sugar to half the quantity in syrup, pour it over them and serve. Compote of Japan Plums Compote de Mespilus.

1 Quart of Mespilus. 1% Cups of Water. This is a species of delicious Japan Plum very common in Louisiana. Peel, stone and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Compote of Cherries. (See recipe.) Compote of Oranges Compote d’Oranges.

1 Dozen Louisiana Oranges. 1 Pound of Sugar. The Juice of Half a Lemon.

Peel the oranges, and cut them into halves crosswise, and take out the seeds and the inner pulp. Put the sugar and the water on to boil, and after ten minutes add the lemon juice. Then put the oranges, a few at a time into the hot syrup, and let them stew gently. After a half hour

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N aS take them out, lay in a dish, pour over the hot liquid syrup and serve either hot or cold.

Compote of Whole Oranges Compote d'Oranges Entiéres 1 Dozen Louisiana Oranges. Boil the oranges, with their peel, gently in water for twenty minutes. Turn the oranges very thinly and spirally, scoring out, if possible, all the inner pulp and peeling. Make a syrup by boiling the sugar, and add the oranges. Let them simmer for twenty minutes longer. Take off, and allow them to remain in their own juice for several hours. Dish them up in a compote dish, and pour over them the syrup just as they are sent to the table.

Oranges, Creole Style Oranges @ la Créole.

1 Dozen Fine Louisiana Oranges. Peel the oranges and cut fn slices, and sprinkle with sugar, to form a syrup. Let them stand for several hours in a cool place, and serve either as a preliminary to breakfast or as a dessert.

Compote of Peaches Compote de Péches.

1 Dozen Peaches. 1 Pound of Sugar. Take well-grown, somewhat ‘unripe peaches. Then cut them in two, and take out the stones. Put the peaches into boiling water, and let them stand till they are soft, and then throw in cold water till cold. Peel them and put them into the sugar, adding a little water, and let them boil up several times. Then drain with the skimmer, lifting them on to the dish gently. Pour over the reduced syrup, and serve with milk or whipped cream. Compote of Pears.

Compote dc Poires.

. 7 Large, Fine Pears.

1 Pound of Sugar. The Juice of a Lemon. Scrape the pears spirally from head to stalk with a tapering tin cutter, to take out the cores. Then put the sugar and one-half cup of water on the fire, and add to it four or five pears, which have already been cut into pieces. As this forms a syrup place the whole pears in it, and let them simmer, adding the lemon juice to keep them white. When done, place the pears in order in a dish. Let the syrup stew down to a nice jelly, and then pour over and serve. Apple jelly may be spread over the pears first, and the syrup poured afterwards. Ths increases the flavor of this delightful compote. Compote of Plums Compote de Pruncs, 1 Quart of Plums.

% Pound of Sugar. % Cup of Water. Pick off the stems of the plums and prick them all over with a fork. Let them simmer in sugar, which has been well boiled to a syrup for about fifteen minutes. Then proceed as in a Compote of Cherries. (See recipe.) Compote of Pincapple Compote d@’Ananas.

1 Pineapple. % Pound of Sugar. Peel the pineapple and cut in slices, very thin. Put it into a syrup made of half a pound of sugar, and let it boil up once. Take out, and let the syrup simmer a few minutes longer, pour over the pineapple, and serve. Another method is to slice the pineapple nicely, place in a dish, sprinkle with powdered white sugar, let the pineapple form a natural syrup and serve. This is delicious.

Compote of Plantain, Creole Style Compote de Plantain @ la Créole. 6 Plantains.

The Juice of Half a Lemon. Peel the plantains and cut into halves or quarters. Put the sugar and water on to boil, and, after ten minutes, add the lemon juice. Then put the pieces of plantain, a few at a time, into the hot syrup, and let them stew gently. After half an hour, or forty-five minutes if not tender take them out, lay in a dish, pour over the hot syrup, and, serve either hot or cold.

The plantain is a variety of banana, and may be prepared in every manner in which bananas are cooked, such as fried bananas, stewed bananas, banana fritters, pudding, cake and ple.

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(See recipe.) Unlike the banana, however, the plantain is never eaten raw, as it is a fruit of much coarser fiber; but, when cooked, it equals the banana in delicacy of taste. Compote of Plantain, Old Style Compote de Plaintain @ V’Anctenne Mode. 6 Plantains.

Have ready a pile of hot ashes in the oven. Put the plantains (unpeeled) into the oven and cover well with ashes. Let them roast thus for half an hour; then take out, peel, cut into quarters and sprinkle with sugar. Set in the oven a few minutes and serve hot with a sauce. Compote of Pomegranates Compote de Grenades.

1 Dozen Pomegranates.

1 Tablespoonful of Orange Juice. Cut a circle the size of a fivecent piece out of the peel of the pomegranate, using a sharp-pointed knife. Then split down the sides of their skins, and carefully remove all the bright ruby pips, without bruising them. Throw these into a dish. Make a syrup, flavored with orange juice, pour it over them and serve. Compote of Prunes Compote de Pruncauz.

1 Pound of Prunes. % Pound of Sugar. Soak the prunes over night in cold water, and drain. Put them into a saucepan with water, cover the saucepan, and let them boil over a moderate fire. When they begin to soften, add a quarter of a pound of sugar. Let it boil, stirring frequently, till the prunes are cooked well. Then take them from the fire, rub a lump of sugar over an orange or a lemon, and wheh it is completely saturated with the rind, put into a dish, pour the prunes in with their juice, and serve cold.

It is not absolutely necessary to soak the prunes over night, but they cook much more easily if you do. Prunes are very healthy and are served twice a week in every convent in New Orleans.

Stewed prunes are prepared tn exactly the same manner as above, only the sugar is put on with the prunes from the first.

Compote of Raspberries.

Compote de Framboises.

1 Quart of Raspberries. % Pound of Select fine Raspberries, but not too ripe. Wash them in cold water, and drain through a sieve. Boil the sugar, and add the berries, and let them boil up once very gently. Put them into a dish, pour the jelly over, and serve. Strawberry Compote.

Compote de Fraises.

1 Quart of Strawberries. % Pound of Select fine strawberries, but not too ripe. Wash them in cold water, and drain through a sieve. Boil the sugar, and add the berries and let them boil up once very gently. Put them into a dish, pour the jelly over and serve.

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CHAPTER XXXII PASTRY AND PIES, PAtieserte.

The most important point In making pastries of all kinds is to have the pastry crust of the proper consistency. The crust of pies should always be light, flaky and delicately crisp. To attain this end only the best flour should be used. In making Puff Paste, always use ice water. In making pie crust, use tepid water if you wish the best results. The great secret of all pastry depends upon the proper manipulation with the fingers. Puff Paste Pate Feutlletéec.

1 Pint of Flour.

1 Pound of Good Butter or Half Lard and Half Butter.

1 Cup of Ice Water. 1 Egg. Have the flour dry and fresh and the butter of the sweetest. Wash the butter well, till it becomes clear and elastic to the touch, cut it into four equal parts, and place it in a bowl, which has already been cooled with ice water. Set it away to cool and harden. Have your flour sifted and ready, and the egg beaten and at hand. Put the flour into a bowl and add to it a lump of butter; work it with your hand, handling always as lightly as possible; add the egg, then salt, and, if the paste is intended for cakes, a teaspoonful of sugar. Work all well, but very lightly with the fingers and thumb, and then gradually add the ice water, working it well and lightly into the flour. When all is worked in, knead lightly for about five minutes, just as though you were making bread. Then cut the dough into halves; sprinkle the board lightly with flour; take the rolling pin and roll the paste out very thin, rolling each half into a half sheet. Break the butter into bits; take about onequarter of the remainder, quickly spread this over the paste; then dredge it very lightly with flour and lay over it the other sheet. Dredge this with flour lightly and pound with the rolling pin gently; then roll this from you into a long thin sheet. Spread a thin coating of butter over this, and then fold the paste over from the sides to the center, and then back again, till you have three folds. Then turn and roll this again till quite thin; add a second quarter of butter broken into bits; dredge lightly with flour and fold and roll as before, always in the same directlon—from you. Repeat this process, folding and rolling, till all the butter ts used. Then cut the paste into three or four parts, according to quantity, and set in the ice box in tin plates for twenty minutes, or until you are ready to use. It may be kept for several days, if rolled in a napkin and set in a cool place. This is the paste used in making Vol-au-Vents, small pftés, etc. The most important point is the baking. The oven should be very hot. If you have used all the best materials that wealth can procure, and yet do not have the oven properly heated, all your efforts will have been in vain. It is always well to bake small patés with a strong underheat, thus allowing them to rise to their full height before browning. If the oven be too hot, and the paste begins to brown as soon as put in, quickly reduce the temperature. It is well to bake the under crust first before putting in the filling in meat pies.

In baking small patties, cut the dough out with a biscuit cutter, leaving the outer rounds distinct from the center. Remove the center and cut out other little rings, and place these one on top of the other, above the bottom crust, which should be solid. In this way is produced the effect of each section being crisp and

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rr apparently separate from the other. Some use the white of an egg only; others omit it entirely. It is optional. Pie Crust Pate Brisée, 3 Cups _ of Sifted Flour.

AM Cups of Butter.

Nearly a Cup of Tepid Water. This quantity will make crusts and coverings for three ordinary pies. Rub the flour and butter very lightly together; being careful not to allow it to harden under touch; keep on kneading a Httle butter at a time into the flour till you have used up all and the dough feels greasy to the touch. Always remember to add the salt before putting in the butter. Some add a tablespoonful of sugar, but the sweetened filling will be generally found sufficient. Then add, little by little, the water, kneading gently, till you have a nice, soft dough, lifting out the portion that is wet and continuing to knead as you mix the flour and water. Always be very careful in, adding the water, and never wet the flour twice in the same place. Mix all together lightly with your hands when it is moistened, using always your own good judgment in adding water. Do not work the dough; simply mix lightly and thoroughly, and then dredge the board lightly with the flour. If you intend to make two pies, cut the dough into four parts. Turn the paste out upon the board and roll lightly and quickly into long, thin sheets. Use as little flour as possible in rolling, as your dough will grow tough the more you work it, and the more you add flour and roll it. Cut the dough in as many sections as you intend to make pies, allowing for an upper and an under crust; this will obviate the necessity of rolling again. Immediately place a sheet of dough over each pie pan and trim the edges nicely. Set in the stove, let them bake lightly, and then add the filling of fruits. Place a light thin cover of crust over them, and trim the edges, decorating them prettily, using the end of a fork or spoon, and set in the hot oven to bake quickly. When done, set to cool. Sprinkle, when cool, with powdered white sugar, rolling the loaf sugar into a powder, rather than using the pulverized kind, if you wish a really elegant dish.

Paste made with lard may be used for meat pies and dumplings, and for stews and chicken, when cooked with dumplings. Only roll very thin. Some persons use lard for pie crust, but it is not advisable as the crust will never have the same flavor as when made with butter. Others, again, mix the butter and lard. This, too, is to be condemned if you hope for the best results.

If any pie crust is left, do not think of throwing it away. Take all the bits left from cutting around the edges of the pie pans; roll very thin into small squares; bake lightly, and save for tea or luncheon. Put a spoonful of orange, pineapple, lemon or raspberry jelly on each square, and they will be found delicious.

Foundation Paste.

Pate a Foncer.

% Pound of Flour. % Pint of Water. 1 Ounce of Butter. % Teaspoonful of Salt.

Sift the flour well; mix with the salt; then rub the flour and butter lightly together, being careful not to let it harden under the touch. When the butter and flour are well kneaded, add the water gradually, kneading little by little, till well kneaded. Do not work the dough; simply mix gently and thoroughly. Flour the table lightly, turn the paste out upon it, and press in the center and around the edges, repeating thts operation three or four times. Then flatten the paste, lay on a dish and cover with a towel and set in a cool place till ready to use, which should be in about twenty-five minutes, at least. Plain Paste for Dumplings Pate @ Dresser.

2 Cups of Sifted Flour.

1 Large Heaping Kitchenspoonful of Butter or Lard.

% Cup of Tepid Water.

Blend the salt and the flour, and then gradually mix in the butter, if for apple dumplings or rolls. Use lard if intended for dumplings for chicken stews, veal stews, etc. Follow the same directions given for making pie paste. Add the water by degrees, using good judgment always, and lifting the dough out as you wet it, never

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= wetting twice in the same place. Mix and knead lightly, and then sift a Night coating of flour on the board, and roll out with the rolling pin, and use for all purposes in this book where Plain Paste is indicated. If necessary to keep the paste a while, place in a napkin in the ice bom But do not use ice water in mixing it, or you will have a tough dough. To attain perfect success in making all pastes, mix quickly, knead slightly, roll quickly and bake rapidly, using always as little flour as possible in rolling. Never beat pie crusts or plain paste. You will harden it and make it just the reverse of the light, palatable paste you desire. Use this paste for chicken dumplings, meat dumplings and apple dumplings, rolling out the dough exceedingly thin in small pieces of about two and a half inches in length, one in width, and at least one-eighth of an inch in thickness.

Apple Pie Tarte aur Pommes.

4 Large Apples (tart).

1 Cup Sugar.

1 Teaspoonful Sweet Spices, Blended Equally.

Pare and slice the apples nicely. Then put them in a porcelain-lined saucepan, and let them stew gently, adding the water and the butter. Season well with a little ground cinnamon, mace and allspice. When done, take off and allow to cool a little. Make a flaky pie crust (see recipe), and line the tin plates, after greasing slightly with butter, and bake the bottom crust slightly brown. Take out and fill in with the apples, and then cover the top with a thin layer of crust. Decorate the edges, and set in the oven to bake. When a nice, delicate brown, take out and let them cool. Remove from the tin plate by slightly loosening the outer edge with a knife. Turn over into a china plate, sprinkle with white powdered sugar, and serve cold or hot. A pie is always better served cold when made of fruit.

The above is the general rule to be observed in making pies. Sometimes the pies are left open, being covered with tiny strips of paste. This is a matter of taste. Utilize odd bits of paste and fruits in this way. Apple Tarts.

Tartlettes auz Pommes.

4 Ounces of Pie Paste.

Apple Marmalade. 3 Apples. Prepare the Pie Paste (see recipe), and line six tart molds with it. Peel and core the apples and cut into quarters, and put into a saucepan with 2 pint of cold water. Let them cook on a@ hot stove for ten minutes. Then remove and drain, and let cool for half an hour. Then cut the quarters into three slices each; line the bottom of the molds with the marmalade, divided evenly; arrange the sliced apples neatly over the marmalade, and dredge nicely with two ounces of powdered sugar. Set in a baking dish and bake for twenty minutes, or a half hour if necessary, in a moderate oven. Take out and spread nicely with apple marmalade and serve. A simpler way is as follows: Pare and quarter the apples. Sprinkle lightly with sugar. Make a pie crust; roll into small bits; place the apples “in the open crust, fold over, fasten by pressing in an ornamental way with a fork, and bake tn a quick oven until the apples are very tender. Apple Meringue Pie Tartes de Pommes Meringuées. 4 Large Apples. % Cup of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Sweet Spices, Blended Equally.

1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla or Lemon Essence.

Peel, slice and stew ripe, juicy apples, and mash them through a sieve. Season with a little grated nutmeg, using the proportions in this recipe just as given in Apple Pie. (See recipe.) Fill the pie plates with the crust, bake and fill with the stewed apples. Let them bake for about twenty minutes, and then spread over the top a thick meringue, made by beating the whites of three eggs for each pie, with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, if you desire a deep, rich meringue; otherwise, allow the white of one egg and one tablespoonful of sugar. Flavor with vanilla or lemon, and continue beating till it will stand alone. Cover the pies with this meringue three-quarters of an 3 Ounces of

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eel TNHE PICAYUNE CREOLE COOK BOOK imch or one-quarter of an inch thick, according to quantity used; set in the stove and let brown, and eat cold. Banana Pic Tarte de Bananes, 4 Large Bananas.

1 Teaspoonful of Sweet Spices, Blended Equally.

Peel, slice and stew the bananas und mash through a sieve. Prepare a Pie Paste and proceed as in Apple Pie. (See recipe.) Banana Meringue Pie Tarte de Bananes Meringuées. 4 Large Bananas.

y% Cup of Sugar.

1 Teaspoonful of Sweet Spices. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. Peel, slice and stew the bananas and mash through a sieve; then proceed as in directions for Apple Meringue Pie. (See recipe.) Blackberry Pie Tarte de Mares.

1 Quart of Blackberries. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Sweet Spices. Stew the blackberries and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Apple Pte, using the same proportions for two pies. (See recipe.) Cherry Pie Tarte de Cerises.

1 Quart of Cherries. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Water.

All fruit pies are best when the fruit is previously cooked. Stew the cherries gently, as for a marmalade. then prepare the pie crust according to directions, and proceed as in recipe for making pies.

Chocolate Cream Pie.

Tarte & la Créme de Chocolat. 2 Quarts of Milk.

% of a Cake of Vanilla or French Chocolate. % Cup of White Sugar. 6 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Vanilla. First dissolve the chocolate in a little milk, and then stir into the boiling milk. Let it boil about four minutes. Then set to cool. When almost cool, add the yolks of all the eggs and the whites of three, saving the remainder for the meringue. Stir these eggs well into the chocolate, and add the essence of vanilla. Then put into pie pans, in which you will already have baked the under crust. Set in the oven and let the custard grow to a “set” state. When half done, spread over the whites of the eggs, which have been whipped to a stiff froth, with two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Let the pies brown lightly, and serve cold. By baking the above preparation, without the paste, in cups set in boiling water, you will have a Chocolate Cup Custard..

Cocoanut Pic.

Tarte de Coco.

1 Pint of Milk. % Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Grated Cocoanut. 2 Eggs. Beat the eggs very light. Add the sugar and beat with the eggs until very light. Add the grated nutmeg, and finally the cocoanut. Make a ple crust (see. recipe), using half the quantity, as a cocoanut pie is always an uncovered pie. Fill with the mixture, and bake in the oven for about half an hour.

Creole Cocoanut Pic Tarte de Coco @ Ia Créole. % Pound of Grated Cocoanut. ¥% Pound of White Powdered Sugar. 1% Pints of Milk.

2 Teaspoonfuls of Vanilla. 1 Tablespoonful of Nutmeg. Beat the sugar and butter to a light cream and then add the essence of vanilla. Gradually add the cocoanut, beating it as lightly as possible. Add the scalded milk, which has been allowed to cool, and finally beat in lightly the whites of the eggs, which have been whipped to a very stiff froth. Do this latter with a few swift strokes, so that the cocoanut may stand out fresh and flaky, like snow. Bake in pie crusts which have already been set in the oven. Serve cold, sprinkling over white powdered sugar. Cream Pic.

Dariole, 1 Pint of Milk. The Whites of Four 1 Tablespoonful Flour. % Cup Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla Essence or Blend the flour and butter well together, and when light add the milk

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en gradually. Cornstarch may be substituted for the flour. Add the essence of vanilla or the juice of a lemon, and then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Stir them well into the bubbling mixture, and then fill the pie pans, which you have lined with crust, baked according to directions. Place in the oven and bake until a nice brown. A cream pie should be served very cold. Cranberry Pir.

Tarte d’Atrelles.

1% Pints of Cranberries. 1 Cup of Sugar Plain Pie Crust.

Cook the cranberries as for Cranberry Sauce. (See recipe.) Do not strain the berries. Prepare the pie crust. Bake the lower crust, fill it with the fruit, and proceed as in general directions for making ples under the heading “Apple Pie.” A cranberry pie, properly made, is one of the: most delicious of all desserts. Custard Pie Flan.

1 Pint of Milk. 3 Eggs. % Cup of Sugar. Vanilla or Lemon Extract.

A Pinch of Salt.

Line the pie pans with the pie crust. (See recipe.) Beat the eggs lightly in a bowl. Add the sugar and the flavoring extract.

in a farina boiler. When it boils, pour it gently upon the eggs, and stir till all is thoroughly blended. Then fill the pie pans with this mixture. Place in a moderate oven, and bake for twenty or twenty-five minutes. Currant Pie Tarte de Grosetlles Rouges. Pint of Currants. % Cup of Sugar. % Plain Pie Paste.

Clean and pick and wash the currants well; drain nicely, and then put into a saucepan with one-half cup of sugar. Stew nicely, and then proceed as in the directions given for making Apple Pie. (See recipe.) Frangipani Frangipane.

3 Ounces of Shelled Almonds. 8 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar. % Spoonful of Ground Cinnamon. 1 Teaspoonful of Orange Flower Water. Prepare a pie paste, and peel three ounces of shelled almonds. Then put Set the milk to boil’ put them into a mortar and pound to @ paste, with the powdered sugar and @ raw egg. When reduced to a very fine paste, add the melted butter, ground cinnamon and the orange flower water. Beat the yolk of an egg well, and then beat the white to a stiff froth and mix thoroughly. Line the pie pans with the pie paste, and fill with the preparation of almonds. Set in a moderate oven for thirty-five or forty minutes; then set to cool for a half hour. In the meantime prepare a “Glace a l’Eau,” as follows: Put one ounce of white granulated sugar into @ sauce pan, with one tablespoonful of cold water, and let it come to a boil. Take off the firé and glaze the surface of the cake with this. Let it cool and send to the table.

Gooseberry Pie Tarte de Groscilics Blanches. 1 Quart of Gooseberries. 1% Cups of Sugar. A Plain Pie Paste.

Line Top and tail the gooseberries. two deep pie dishes with a plain Pie Paste (see recipe); fill with berries; add nearly one cup of sugar to each pie, and proceed as in recipe for Apple Pie. Set in the oven and let the pies bake for three-quarters of an hour. If the gooseberries are stewed as blackberries it will require less time to bake.

Greengage Pie Tarte de Reine-Claude.

8 Ripe Greengages. 3 Ounces of Apple Marmalade.

% Pound of Feuilletage Paste. Prepare a half pound of Feuilletage Paste (see recipe) and line six tart molds with it. Then spread nicely on the bottom of each three ounces of Apple Marmalade. (See recipe.) Wash the greengages carefully and remove the stones; cut into quartered pieces and lay nicely over the marmalade. Sprinkle two ounces of powdered sugar evenly over them and bake ina moderate oven for twenty-five minutes. Remove; let cool; spread apple marmalade nicely over the top and send to the table.

Huckleberry Pie Tarte de Marcs de Ronce.

1 Quart of Huckleberries. % Cup of Sugar. A Plain Pie Crust.

In making this delicious pie proceed in the same manner as in the recipe given for Cherry Pie. (See recipe.)

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Lemon Pie Tarte de Ottron.

1% Cups of Sugar, 1 Cup of Water. 1 Tablespoonful of Corn Starch or 2 of our.

2 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. The Juice and Inner Fruit and Rind of Two Grated Lemons.

Beat the sugar and butter to a cream; add the eggs, the yolks and the whites beaten separately, and then add the hot water and the juice, the pulp of the lemon and the: grated rind. Moisten the flour or cornstarch with a little cold water, and stir into the mixture. Line the pie pans with plain paste or ple crust. (See recipe.) Bake.the under crust a few minutes, Then fill the pans with the mixture, cover with an upper crust, and bake in a quick oven for half an hour. Or cook the custard first, as many of the Creoles do, declaring that thus they reach better results. Boil the water, and then wet the flour or cornstarch, with a little cold water, blending thoroughly. Stir this into the water, and let all come to the boiling point. Then add the sugar, and, if you wish, the butter. Let it boil up once. Take off, and add immediately the beaten eggs, and set to cool.,Then add the lemon juice and grated lemon rind, stirring well. Bake the under crust of the pie, fill with this mixture, and set in the oven to brown nicely. This should be an open pie. Indeed, all lemon pies should be open, as custard pies always are. The above measurements will make two pies, Lemon Meringue Pie Tarte de Citron Méinguée.

1% Cups of Milk or Water.

1% Cups of White Sugar. 3 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Flour or Cornstarch. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered White The Juice and Grated Rind of 2 Lemons. Have ready the pie pans, with the baked crust. Beat the sugar and the yolks well together, and add the juice and grated rind of the lemons. Blend the flour and milk gradually, and pour it through a sieve into the eggs. Mix thoroughly. Fill the lined pans with this, and set in the oven to bake for twenty or thirty minutes. Add gradually three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar to the whites of the eggs, beating steadily all the time, and when it is all absorbed beat it to a stiff froth. Place this over the top of the pie by spoonfuls, and then smooth lightly with a knife, place it in the oven, and let it brown. This is a delicious pie.

Mince Pie Paté de Noét 3 Pounds of Beef, Chopped very Fine. 1 Pound of Beef or Mutton Suet. 4 Pounds of Apples, Pared and Chopped, 2 Pounds of Raisins, Seeded and Chopped.

1 Pound of Sultana Raisins, Picked and ‘Washed.

2 Pounds of Currants, Picked and Washed.

1 Pound of Citron, Cut Very Fine. 1% Pound of Lemon Peel, Grated Very ne.

2 Pounds of Brown Sugar.

Pound of Candied Lemon Peel, if Desired. 2 Grated Nutmegs.

1 Tablespoonful Each of Ground Cloves and Allspice.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Ground Mace. 1 Tablespoonful of Fine Sait.: 2 Tablespoonfuls of Ground Cinnamon. 2 Quarts of Cider.

The Juice of 2 Oranges, and the Rind, Grated Fine.

The meat should be good and lean, and should be boiled the day before needed, or early in the morning, and allowed to cool. In boiling the meat, plunge it into boiling (not cold) water, for the boiling water enables it to retain its juices. Cook steadily till tender. Then stand away to cool. Chop the meat very fine, and clear away all gristle and skin. Shred the suet, and chop, or, rather, mince _ it very, very fine. Then pare and core the apples, and chop very fine. Stone the raisins, and cut the citron fine. Many prefer to leave out the candied lemon as the mince meat is heavier with it, the flavor being more delicate and the pie more digestible without it. Grate the orange and lemon peel very fine. Then mix the meat and suet together, chopping again, and add all the juices of the lemon and orange, and the grated rinds, and then mix all well again, and pack in a stone jar. Pour over this the cider and cover very tightly, and set in a very cool place. Mince meat made in this manner should keep all winter. When ready to use the meat, dish out the quantity you desire, and thin to the needed consistency. Be very careful in picking the currants, especially taking out all grains of sand or dirt and pieces of twigs, etc. Wash them several times in cold water, separating the good from the bad, ever rejecting the great quantity of refuse that always lurks in bought currants.

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ed —_—_——_— The Creoles often use the fresh beef tongue or the heart of the beef, well chopped and boiled, in making this mince meat. The filet of beef is best, however.

To make the pies, line the bottom of the ple pans with the pie crust, bake the bottom layer, and then fill with the mince meat. Cover the pies with a thin crust, or leave open if preferred; bake till a_ nice, delicate brown, sprinkle lightly witu white sugar, and serve hot. Mince pies kept from day to day should be warmed over before serving. Pisin Mince Pie Paté de Noél Simple.

A plain mince meat for every day use may be made as follows: 2 Pounds of Meat. 2% Pounds of Apple. 2 Pounds of Seeded Raisins. 2 Pounds of Currants. 1% Pints of Cider. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Cinnamon, Cloves, Nutmeg and Mace, Grated. 2 Pounds of Brown Sugar.

Juice and Rind of 1 Lemon. The Juice and Rind of 1 Orange. % Pound of Mutton or Beef Suet. % Pound of Chopped Citron. Proceed to prepare the meat and the pies as in above recipe. Lenten Mince Pie Paté de Noél au Caréne.

4 Pounds of the Best Apples, Cored and Minced.

2 Pounds of Raisins, Stoned and Minced. 8 Hard-Boiled Eggs, Chopped Fine. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Ground Spices, as ove Juice and Rind of 2 Lemons, Grated. The Juice of an Orange, and Rind, Grated. 2 Pounds of Currants. 2 Pounds of Sugar, or Sugar to Taste. Quart Cider.

Mix all well togéther, increasing or lessening the proportions, according to the number of pies you wish to make, and proceed as above. (See recipe Mince Pie.) Molasses Pic Tarte de Mélasse.

2 Cups of New Orleans Molasses. The Juice of 2 Lemons._3 Eggs. % Teaspoonful Each of Nutmeg and Cinnamon.

Blend the lemon juice and molasses well, and gradually beat in the flour, which has been well moistened with a little water. Then add the spices and the butter, melted, and the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light with the sugar. Finally, add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix well. Line the pie pans with a pie crust (see recipe), bake, fill with the mixture, and bake aguin for half an hour. Onequarter of a cup of vinegar may be substituted for the lemon juice, but always use the latter if you have it. Orange Pie Tarte d’Oranges.

2 Fine Louisiana Oranges and Their ulce The Rind of 1 Orange, Grated. 2 Tablespoons of Butter.

1 Tablespoonful of Cornstarch. 3 Eggs. 1 Cup of Powdered Sugar.

% Teacupful of Bolling Water. cream. Then blend the cornstarch with sufficient cold water to moisten it, mix well, and stir into the teacup of water, which should be boiling in a@ saucepan. Let it cook, stirring constantly, for two minutes only. Then add the butter and sugar and stir well. Remove from the fire, and add the well-beaten yolks of two eggs. Line the pie plates with pie crust (see recipe), and bake the under crust. Add the custard, and let it get slightly brown in the oven. Then take out, and spread over the top the whites of two eggs, beaten stiff. with two tablespoonfuls of fine white powdered sugar. let it bake for about three minutes longer in a quick oven, and serve cold. The meringue on top must be slightly browned.

Peach Pie Tarte de Péches.

1 Dozen Large Peaches. 1 Cup of Sugar. A Plain Paste. se Pare and cut the peaches into slices. Stew them well, and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Apple Pie. (See recipe.) Sprinkle the tops of the covers with fine white powdered sugar when ready to serve. Peach Meringue Pic Tarte de Péches Meringuée. 1 Dozen Peaches. Sugar to Taste. Whites of 6 Eggs. 6 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar.

Pare and stone the peaches, and stew according to recipe. (See recipe Stewed Apples or Peaches.) Line the bottoms of two pie pans with a rich pie crust, and then fill in with the peaches, which have been well sweetened to taste. Bake in a quick oven twenty or twenty-five minutes. Beat

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IIE EEE the whites of six eggs to a stiff froth with the sugar, which should be fine white powdered. Add a teaspoonful of vanilla. When the meringue can stand alone, cover the tops of the baked pies three-quarters of an inch thick, and set them back in the oven to bake for two or three minutes, to a nice, delicate brown.

All fruit meringue pies are made in the same way.

Pear Pie Tarte de Potres.

6 Fine Pears.

% Cup of Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Water. A Plain Paste.

Peel and core and slice six fine pears. Put them in a vessel with the sugar apd water, and stew. Prepare a plain paste, and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Apple Pie. Pineapple Pic \ Tarte d’Ananas.

1 Fine Pineapple. % Cup of Sugar. A Plain Pie Paste.

Peel and slice one pineapple into very fine, thin pieces. Place with the juice in a saucepan with the sugar, and stew slightly. Prepare a plain pie paste, and proceed in the same manner as for Apple Pie. (See recipe.) “Plantain Pie Paté de Plantain.

3 Plantains. % Cup of Sugar. A Plain Paste.

Peel, slice and stew the plantains, and proceed in the same manner as for Apple Pie. (See recipe.) Plantain Mcringue Pie.

Péaté de Plantain Meringué. 2 Plantains. Cup of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Sweet Spices. White of 3 Eggs.

1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. Peel, slice and stew the plantains, mash through a sieve, and proceed as in recipe for Apple Meringue Pie. (See Pumpkin Pie Tarte de Ottroutlle.

Use the delicate Cashaw for this pie. Take 1 Pint of Mashed, Stewed Pumpkin. 1 Pint of Milk. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. 4 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sugar.. % Teaspoonful Each of Ground Mace, Cinnamon and Allspice.

Boil a quart of pumpkin, cut into dice-shaped pieces, putting it on with just enough water to keep from burning, say about a quarter of a cupful. Let it stew slowly for an hour, at least, or until tender. Then drain and press through a colander. Add a good tablespoonful of butter and a quarter of a teaspoonful of salt. Mix well and let it cool. When cool put the pumpkin, using one pint of it, into a bowl, and add the pint of milk, the ground spices, and mix all well together, and add the above amount of sugar, or sugar to taste. Then beat f.ur eggs well and add to the mixture. Line the pie pans, and bake the under crust. Fill with the mixture, and bake in a quick oven for half an hour. When cold sprinkle. lightly with white Powdered sugar, and serve. This quantity will make three pies. Raspberry Pie Tarte de Frambotses..

1 Quart of Berries.

1 Teaspoonful Sweet Spices, Blended Equally.

Pick, wash and stem the berries; then put them in a porcelain-lined saucepan, and let them stew gently, adding the water and the butter. Season well with a little ground cinnamon, mace and allspice. When done, take off and allow to cool a little. Make a flaky pie crust (see recipe), and line the tin plates, after greasing slightly with butter, and bake the bottom crust slightly brown. Take out and fill in with the berries, and then cover the top with a thin layer of crust. Decorate the edges, and set in the oven to bake. When a nice, delicate brown, take out and let them cool. Remove from the tin plate by slightly loosening the outer edge with a knife. Turn over into a china plate, sprinkle with white sugar, and serve cold or hot.

Strawberry Pie Tarte de Fratses.

1 Quart of Berries.

1 Teaspoonful Sweet Spices, Blended Equally.

ner as for Raspberry Pie. (See recipe. )

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SS a It might be remarked that all the above fruit pies may be made into meringue pies, the same as the Peach Meringue and Apple Meringue pies. All fruit pies are delightful eaten with a glass of fresh milk or cream. Sweet Potato Custard Pie Flan de Patates Douces.

3 Boiled Sweet Potatoes.

3 Eggs. 1 Cup of Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Teaspoonful of Cinnamon. The Grated Rind and Juice of an Orange. Wash the potatoes well, and boil them until tender, but not overdone. Thirty minutes will suffice. When cold, peel and grate them, and then beat together the butter and sugar till light. Add the yolks of the eggs, beaten till light, and then beat in the potatoes, stirring first gradually, and then beating lightly and steadily. Add the spices and the orange, and then line one deep pan or two small pie pans if preferred, with the pie crust. (See recipe.) Bake lightly, fill in neatly with the potatoes, and cook in a quick oven for a half hour. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and while beating add two tablespoonfuls of white powdered sugar. When the pies are baked, heap the meringue on top, set back in the oven, and let them bake for two or three minutes only, to a light brown.

Vol-au-Vent 1 Pound of Butter, or Half Butter and Half Lard.

1 Teaspoonful of Salt. 1 Cup of Ice 1 Egg.

Vol-au-Vent Paste is always difficult to make, and should never be attempted by inexperienced housekeepers, tf they are expecting company.

Make the Puff Paste as directed (see Puff Paste), and let it stand in a cool place at least six hours. Roll the paste out very thin, and then line the deep pan in which you intend to cook the chicken or meat. Cut around the edge nicely with a knife. Then take another small pan and cover it only half way with the paste. Cut around the edges, trimming off all strings of dough. Then brush the paste all around the top with a beaten egg. Put it on a sheet iron or square tin, and set it on the ice till very cold. Then set it in a very hot oven to bake for about half an hour. Do not let it burn or scorch. When done, fill the inside with chicken, pigeon or other meat (already fricaseed), with which you intend to make the Vol-au-Vent, and then cover with the top crust. Fill around the edges with strips of left over paste, piling one over the other in about three thicknesses, set in the oven to bake, and serve hot. This is the true Vol-au-Vent paste. and chicken, pigeons, small birds, veal or meats may be used for filling. But the best chicken pie is the old-fashjoned one, made by filling the pan with pie crust (see recipe), baking it, with the edges all artistically cut around lightly, and then filling in with the chicken alternating with strips of dough and covering with a thin layer of the paste. Then bake nice and brown and serve hot.

Oyster Patties Bouchées d’HAttres, Prepare a puff paste, and proceed in exactly the manner outlined under the chapter on “Oysters.” (See Oyster Patties. )

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_ CHAPTER XXXIV PU Des Poudings.

‘We have no real French word for puddings. Puddings are essentially English in origin. French chefs introduced them into France, retaining, with a slight modification of spelling, the expressive name for the dish. The Creoles have adapted the dish to the many delightful fruits of Louisiana. Puddings may be either boiled or baked. One rule may be given for the baked pudding, and one for the boiled, or more properly, the “roll,’’ and these will be the guides of the intelligent cook. In the boiled puddings it is generally necessary to make a dough, using the Plain Paste (see recipe), and then the dough is rolled out, and the raw fruit placed inside. The dough is then rolled over and over so as to form layers first of dough, and then of fruit. Then it is sewed up in a clean cloth, and boiled till done.

Blackberry Roll Bourrelct aus Mfres, 1 Quart of Blackberries.

A Plain Paste, Not Too Flaky. Make a Plain Paste, which should be rather firm, to prevent the berries from escaping. Roll this out to about one and a half feet in length, or one foot, according t> the size of the family, and the number of guests, one foot being ample for a family of six. Spread over it the blackberries, which have been very carefully picked, and then carefully roll over and over again until the entire paste is taken up. Then sew in a clean piece of white muslin, and put into a kettle of boiling water. Let it boil continuously for at least two hours and a half. Then take out, let it cool slightly, rip the cloth which binds it, and serve immediately with a Hard Sauce or Cream Sauce. (See recipes Sauces for Puddings, etc.) Peach Rolls, Apple Rolls, Banana, Strawberry, Raspberry, Cherry and Currant Rolls and Plantain Rolls are made in the same manner. Always slice and peel the peaches and stone them; also stone the cherries, and peel and seed the apples. Peel the plantains and bananas and slice very thin before rolling in the dough. Some serve the roll cold, but then it is always a little tough, for the boiled dough hardens easily. If liked, the pudding may be boiled in a mold, in which case it should be well-covered and the mold first buttered. The fruits may be mixed, too, which often produces excellent results. Boiled Dumplings Echaudés 4 VAnglatse.

8 Large, Fine, Rosy Apples. Sauce. Prepare a Plain Paste (see recipe), and cut into squares, and put in the center of each a fine, juicy apple, pared and cored, or a half apple, pared and cored. Wrap the fruit up in the dough, and place these in small dumpling cloths (the Creoles sometimes do without cloths), and put them into boiling water, and let them boil for at least an hour. On taking out the apple, if so desired, the inner core may be filled with some delicate jelly or marmalade. Serve with Hard, or Cream Sauce. ‘See recipes Sauces for Puddings, etc.) " Dumplings of other fruits are made in the same way. In making a peach dumpling, cut the peach in half, stone it, put together again, or place the halves each in separate pieces of dough in dumpling cloths. Cut bananas and plantains into quarters. Always dip the pudding and dumpling cloths in very hot water before sewing up the pudding or dumplings in them. Dumplings must be served as soon as done.

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—— Old-Fashioned Creole Apple Dumplings Bchaudée de Pommes & VAncienne Mode Créole.

8 Large, Fine, Rosy Apples. 1 Large Kitchenspoonful o1 Butter. 2 Large Kitchenspoonfuls of Sugar. 1 Cup of Seeded Raisins, The Grated Rind of 1 Orange..

An old-fashioned apple dumpling is made by dropping the dumplings in the boiling water without wrapping them in cloths. After they have boiled an hour, beat one large kitchenspoonful of butter and two of sugar to a thick cream, and stir into the water with the dumplings. Add one cup of seeded raisins, and the grated rind of one orange. Let all boil twenty minutes longer. Put the dumplings into a dish, pour the sauce over, and serve hot or cold.

Baked Dumplings Echaudés Rotis.

8 Large, Fine, Rosy Apples. Prepare a Plain Paste. (See recipe.) Cut into squares and proceed to prepare the dumplings in exactly the same manner as in the recipe for Boiled Dumplings (see above recipe), only, instead of boiling them, set them in the oven in a baking dish, and bake to a delicate brown. Serve with a Hard or Cream Sauce. (See recipes Sauces for Puddings.) Dumplings of other fruits are made and baked in the same way.

Rice Dumplings FEchaudés de Riz.

+ % Pound of Mashed, Cold, Bollea ce.

% Dozen Apples.

Pare the apples and take out the cores. Fill the interiors with sugar and cinnamon. Beat the egg and the rice together, add the flour, and knead to a dough. Cover the apples with a thick coating of rice, and then tie each in a dumpling cloth, and put them in a pot of boiling water. Let them boil for three-quarters of an hour. When done, turn out carefully on a dish, and serve with a Hard or Cream Sauce. Or the dumplings may be buked in the oven.

THE PICAY E CREOLE COOK BOOK Roly Poly Bourrelet.

% Pound of Flour. 5 Ounces of Suet. 1 Pint of Fresh Fruit, Jam or Jelly. Cut away all the fibers from the suet, and then mince very fine. Add the flour and salt to it, mixing well together, and gradually add sufficient water to make a dough. Roll it out about half an inch thick on a large baking board, and spread it over thinly with minced fresh fruits, mingled, or with fruit jam or preserves, singly or mingled. Roll it up, and put in a cloth, leaving room for it to swell. Then plunge into boiling water and let it boil for two hours. Serve with Hard or Cream Sauce. An Orange Roly Poly is made by seeding the oranges and laying them thinly sliced all over the sheet of dough. Sprinkle lightly with white sugar, and roll up and fasten closely in the pudding cloth. Boil for one hour, and eat with Lemon or Orange Peaches and apples and other fruits may be used, also, in making these delightful roly polys.

Plum Pudding Pouding auz Raisins.

1 Pound of Raisins. 1 Pound of Currants.

% Pound of Citron.

% Pound of Butter. % Pound of Suet. % Pound of Sugar. \% Pound of Flour. 6 Eges. lalf Pint of Milk. % Ounce Each of Ground Cloves, Mace, Cinnamon and Allspice. The Grated Rind of a Lemon. The Grated Rind of Half an Orange. Seed the raisins, chop them fine; seed the currants after washing and picking them over carefully and mince the citron and grated rind of the orange and lemon. Now proceed to cream and then beat in the yolks of the eggs, which have been previously beaten to a perfect degree of lightness. Then add the flour, beating in by degrees till very light, and the whites of the eggs, which have been beaten to a stiff froth. Add the spices and beat in well. Mince the suet and the fruits very fine and add. When all is well mixed, have ready the pudding cloth, wet with hot water, and wrung perfectly dry. Dredge it slightly with flour, and wrap the pud-

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TT "THE PICAYUNE CREOLE CGOK BOOK ding in it. Sew it up, put it into a kettle of boiling water, and let it boil for six hours. Serve with a Hard Old-Fashioned Creole Plum Pudding Pouding aue Raisins @ lAnotenne Mode Oréole.

2 Pounds of Beef Suet. 1% Pounds of 1 Pound of Sugar. The Yolks of 8 Eggs. 1 Pound of Raisins. 1 Pound o: Currants.

% Pound of Citron.

One Pint Cider.

A Pinch of Cinnamon.

Chop finely two pounds of beef suet. Mix with it one and a half pounds of sifted flour; add to this one pound of sugar, the yolks of eight eggs, one pound of raisins, stoned and floured; one pound of currants, one-quarter pound citron, chopped fine; one pint cider, one nutmeg, grated, and a little cinnamon. Beat the whole well together, adding milk till of proper con. sistency. Wrap in a cloth, previously scalded and floured, leaving room for the pudding to swell; boil six hours, and serve with Hard Sauce. Baked Puddings and Dumplings Des Poudings et des Echaudés au Four In baked puddings this invariable rule must be observed—the whites and the yolks of the eggs must be beaten separately, if you would achieve the best results. Custards come under the same class as puddings, in a way, and when baked both should be put into the oven the moment they are made, and baked instantly. Once done, they should be taken out, and if to be eaten hot, should be served at once; if cold, they should be set in a cool place. Nothing is so delicate as milk, and when this ingredient enters into the composition of any dish that is to be eaten cold, care should be taken to keep it in a very cool, fresh place.

Apple Pudding Pouding de Pommes.

1 Pint of Apples.

3 Tablespoonfuls of White Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Butter.

% Teaspoonful Each of Nutmeg, Mace, Allspice and Cinnamon, Grated. 1 Spoonful of Vanilla Essence. Stew the apples according to recipe (see recipe), and while they are boiling hard stir in the butter and the spices. Then take from the fire, and Beat all very light. Whip the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and beat well into the pudding. Put into a buttered dish, and bake for fifteen minutes in the oven. When nicely browned, grate nutmeg on top, and serve cold, with cream or milk. Apple Meringue Pudding Pouding Méringué aue Pommes. 1 Pint of Apples.

3 Tablespoonfuls of White Sugar. \% Teaspoonful Each of Nutmeg, Mace, Allspice and Cinnamon, Grated. 1 Spoonful of Vanilla Essence. Stew the apples according to recipe (see recipe), and while they are boiling ‘hard stir in the butter and the spices, Then take from the fire and Beat all very light, and put it into a buttered dish, and bake for fifteen minutes slowly. Then cover with a meringue made with the whites of the eggs, the essence, and the white powdered sugar, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake to a light brown, and serve cold with fresh milk or cream. Peach Meringue Pudding, Cherry Meringue Pudding, Orange Meringue Pudding, Blackberry Meringue Pudding and Fig Meringue Pudding are also.made in the same way, only the figs must not be overripe when cooked. The same fruits may be made into the plain pudding by following the first recipe. All are most excellent, and in their season are so cheap in the South that there is no reason why the poorest may not enjoy these delightful desserts.

Banana Pudding Pouding de Bananee.

6 Bananas. Stale Cake.

1 Pint of Milk. 3 Eggs. % Cup of Sugar. Cut the stale cake very thin. Peel and slice the bananas. Put a layer of cake at the bottom of a buttered baking dish. Place over this a layer of the sliced bananas. Pour over this a layer of milk custard, made from the above ingredients, and boiled very thin. (See Custard.) Add another layer of cake, then one of banana and custard, and so continue till you have used up all. Be sure to make the custard the top layer. Cover

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a with a piece of paper, bake for half an hour, then let the top brown slightly, and serve cold.

Birds’ Nest Pudding Pouding au Nid d’Oteeau.

6 Apples. 1 Pint of Rich Cream. Pare and core the apples, and then put them in the bottom of a buttered dish. Mix the cream with the flour until smooth, and add a teaspoonful of baking powder, which has been dissolved well in a tablespoonful of boiling water. Mix all again thoroughly, and pour over the apples. Set in a moderate oven, and bake for one hour. Serve with Hard or Cream Bread Pudding Pouding de Pain.

Utilize left-over stale bread in this pudding.

1 Quart of Stale Bread.

Eggs. 1 Cup Raisins. 1% Pints of 3 Bee P Milk.

Beat the eggs well, and mix, and then, when very light, add the milk. If you use stale cake, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar; if you use stale bread, add half a cup of sugar. Mix thoroughly. Wet the bread and squeeze it. Then mix in it a cup of seeded raisins. Beat the egg mixture thoroughly into this, place it in the oven and bake for an hour. Serve with Hard, Cream or Lemon Sauce. (See recipes.) Brown Betty Pudding Pouding @ la Mul@tresse.

1 Cup of Bread Crumbs.

2 Cups of Chopped Apples. 1 Cup of jugar.

% Spoonful each of Ground Spices. Utilize stale bread crumbs for this pudding. Butter the bottom of a baking pan, and put in a layer of the apples, which have been stewed well. Put over this a layer of bread crumbs, sprinkle with sugar and dot with butter. Sprinkle nicely with the spices. Continue this until you have used up all the apples. Put a layer of bread crumbs on top. Place in a moderate oven, and bake to a nice brown. Serve hot, with Cream Sauce or Hard Sauce.

Cake or Bread Pudding Pouding de Gateau de Pain 1 Quart of Stale Cake.

38 Eggs. 1 Cup Raisins. 1% Pints Milk. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. Utilize left-over cake in this pudding. Beat fhe eggs well, and mix and then, when very light, add the milk. If you use stale cake, add two tablespoonfuls of sugar; if you use stale bread, add half a cup of sugar. Mix thvuroughly. Spread the bottom of a buttered pan with the raisins, put over them a layer of cake sliced thin. sprinkle this with raisins, and continue adding the cake and raisins alternately till all are used. Add a little essence of lemon or vanilla to the egg mixture, and pour all this over the cake. Set in the oven and bake for an hour. Serve with Hard or Lemon Chocolate Pudding Pouding au Chocolat.

3 Ounces of Grated Chocolate. 1 Quart of Milk. % Cup of Powdered %, Cups of Powdered Crackers. % Cups of Butter. 1 Pinch of Salt. Soak the cracker crumbs in water for a few minutes, to dissolve them, and then squeeze out thoroughly. Dissolve the chocolate in a little milk, and add the other ingredients. Pour all into a buttered dish, and let bake for twenty minutes. Then take out and let it cool slightly. Spread over the top a meringue made of one cup of powdered sugar and the whites of three eggs. Set back in the oven to brown slightly for two minutes, and serve cold.

Cottage Pudding Pouding de Ménage.

1 Cup of Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar. 3 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of utter. 1% Cups of our.

Beat the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, and then add the milk and the flour. Add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat carefully into the pudding, Add the baking powder, and pour into a buttered pan, and cook in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve this pudding hot, with Vanilla, Cream or Lemon Sauce.

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Cocoanut Pudding Pouding de Coco, 1 Grated Cocoanut. 1 Quart of Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of 4 Tablespoonfuls of Cornstarch. Put the milk in a boiler and add the cornstarch as it commences to boil, first moistening the cornstarch with a little water. Stir until very smooth. Then add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten, and then the sugar. Lastly, add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Then add the grated cocoanut, turn into the baking pan, and bake for half an hour. Serve cold, with Vanilla Sauce. (See recipe.) Cream Pudding Pouding a la Créme.

6 Eggs. % Cup of Sugar.

1 Pint Flour. 1 Pint Milk. 1 Grated 1 Pint of Rich Cream. A Pinch of Salt. Mix the sugar and the grated lemon. Beat the yolks of the eggs well, and add to the mixture. Then add the flour, well sifted; beat light, and add one pint of milk and one pint of rich cream. Beat the whites to a stiff froth and add. Bake a half hour in a buttered dish. Serve with Lemon Creole Fig Pudding Pouding de Figucs @ la Créote. % Pound of Figs.

¥% Pound of Grated Bread Crumbs. 1 Teacupful of Milk. 2% Ounces of 3 Ounces of Butter. 2 Eggs. Chop the figs fine, and beat the sugar and the yolks of the eggs to a thick cream. Add the melted butter and the bread crumbs, which have been wet and squeezed thoroughly. Add the milk and whites of the eggs, beaten to a thick froth. Butter a mold and sprinkle with flour, put in the pudding and steam lightly for three hours. Serve with Hard or Cream Fig Pudding Pouding de Figues.

1 Pint of Fresh Figs. 1 Cu 1 Cup of Milk. 1 Cup o 1 Teaspoonful of Bakin; ¥% Teaspoonful of Grate Peel the figs and cut fine. Then make a batter of the eggs, flour and milk. according to recipe (Apple Batter Pudding). When smooth, add the of Sugar.

Powder.

fruit. Turn into a baking pan, and bake for an hour. Serve with sauce. This pudding may be boiled by adding two cups of flour to the batter, and rolling and sewing in a well floured dumpling cloth and boiling for three hours. (See recipe.) Indian Pudding Pouding &@ UIndienne 2 Cups of Indian Meal.

% Cup Butter. 1 Cup Sugar. 2 Cups Milk. % Cup of Molasses.

1 Cup of Seeded Raisins.

Pour sufficient boiling water on the meal to wet it thoroughly, and then beat in the butter. Add the sugar, beating thoroughly, and the salt. Then add the milk, stirring well, also the molasses with the raisins. Add one teaspoonful of extract of cinnamon, and one-quarter of a grated nutmeg. Mix thoroughly. Bake for two and a half or three hours, and serve cold with cream..

Molasses Pudding Pouding de Mélasee.

1 Cup of New Orleans Molasses. 1% Cups of Milk. % Cup of Melted 3 Cups Flour. % Teaspoonful Baking Powder. % Teaspoonful Each of the Four Spices, Dissolve the baking powder in the flour, mixing thoroughly. Melt the butter and add it to the molasses, and then add the milk, mixing thoroughly. Add the flour, gradually mixing well, and then add the spices. Blend all well together. Pour into a well buttered pan, and let it bake for about two hours. Serve with Foamy Sauce. This pudding may also be boiled by sewing in a well floured dumpling cloth and boiling for three hours. Nesselrode Pudding Pouding Neaselrode.

% Pint of Chestnuts.

% Pint of Almonds. 1 Pint of Cream. 1 Pint of Bolling Water.

% Pound of Mixed French Candies of the Finest Kind.

% of a Grated Pineapple, or % ofa n.

The Yolks of Three E 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. Shell the chestnuts and throw them into boiling water to blanch. Then take off the brown skin, and set them in a saucepan and cover with boiling water, and let them boil for twenty minutes. Then drain and press them

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through a colander. Shell the almonds and blanch them for twelve minutes in boiling water. Then take them out and pound them, and cut the fruit into very small pieces. Put the sugar and the water on to cook together, and let the mixture boil for ten minutes, then beat the yolks of the eggs very, very light, and add them to the boiling syrup. Let it boil up once, and take off, and then beat very lightly with an egg beater till cool. (Use a wire beater.) Add all the fruits, the almonds and chestnuts, and the pint of cream, and a tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. Beat well. Put the pudding into a freezer to freeze and ripen, and let it stand covered with a carpet, for four or five hours, or till frozen, renewing the ice and salt and draining off water as necessary. This will serve eight persons nicely. Some of the cream may be worked in with Spinach greenery, as in Pistachio Ice Cream (see recipe), and a delicate coating of green given to the pudding, which adds to the effect. The pudding may be served with cream whipped to a stiff broth. Orange Pudding Pouding d’Orange.

2 Large Louisiana Oranges. 1 Stale, Small Sponge Cake. Eggs. Grate the rind of the oranges, and squeeze out the juice after removing the seeds. Grate the inner meat. Beat-the butter and sugar to a thick cream. Add this to the oranges, grated with the rind. Add the crumbled sponge cake to the mixture. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and the yolks separately. Add them in order to the mixture. Place in a moderately quick oven, and let it bake for about a half hour. When done, let it cool slightly. Place a meringue on * top, as in above recipe, and set back to bake two minutes more. Serve cold. Peach Batter Pudding Pouding de Péches.

1 Pint of Milk. 2 Cups of Flour. 3 Eggs. 8 Peaches.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Baking Powder. Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs till very light, and mix, and add the milk. Beat steadily until smooth. Then add the melted butter, the salt and buking powder. Have the peaches stewed till almost cooked, and stir them into the pudding, after cutting fine. Then turn the pudding into the mold or pan in which it is to be baked. Bake for an hour, and serve hot, with Cream or Hard Sauce. (See recipes Sauces for Puddings, etc.) Fruit Batter Pudding Pouding de Fruits.

Cherry Batter Pudding, Apple Batter Pudding and all fruit batter puddings are made in the same way as Peach Batter Pudding. (See recipe.) Pincapple Pudding Pouding d’Ananas, 1 Fine Pineapple. 1 Pint of Milk. 3 Eggs. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Butter. A Sauce.

Boil the milk in a saucepan and add the butter. Sift the flour and add gradually to the mixture, stirring briskly for three minutes. Take off the fire, and add the yolks of the eggs beaten very light. Stir well, and add the powdered sugar. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add gradually to the milk. Then take a pudding mold and butter well: sprinkle with sugar and put a layer of the milk-and-egg preparation about half an inch thick at the bottom. Put over this a layer of finely sliced pineapple, th2n add another layer of the milk and eggs and a layer of the pineapplé, and continue till all the pineapple and the mixture are used up. Set the mold in a tin pan of warm water and place in the oven and cover with buttered paper. Let the pudding steam for an hour; then remove from the oven, turn into a pudding dish, and serve with a Sauce. (See recipe Sauces for Puddings, etc.) Raspberry Pudding Pouding de Framboises, 1 Quart of Raspberries.

1 Stale, Small Sponge Cake. 6 Eggs. Stew the berries and proceed in the same manner as for Orange Pudding. Bake for about twenty minutes or half an hour after adding the fruit,

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and serve cold, with a Cream or Hard These fruit puddings are the most delicious of Louisiana puddings. Sago Pudding Pouding au Sagou.

1 Quart of Milk. % Pound of Sago. % Cup of Powdered Sugar. 4 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla Essence. Boil the milk and add the sago, and stir briskly for ten or fifteen minutes. Then take off the stove and set to cool. Add the sugar and mix thoroughly. Then add the eggs and a tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. Mix thoroughly. Butter a pudding mold or pan and fill with the mixture. Set in a tin pan, and fill the latter with hot water. Place in the oven and let it steam for half an hour. Remove from the fire, turn into a dessert dish and send to the table hot. Serve with Snow Pudding Pouding @ la Niege.

% Box of Gelatine. 1 Pint of Boiling The Whites of Three Eggs. The Juice of 3 Lemons.

Dissolve the gelatine in the boiling water, and, when nearly cold, add one cup of powdered sugar and the juice of one lemon. Beat well and lightly, and strain. When cold, beat as white as snow, and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat all thoroughly, and pour into a mold. Stand in a cold place for four hours to harden. Then make a Custard Sauce by beating the yolks of the eggs together with a half cup of sugar till very light. Stir them into the milk, which should be boiling. Let them cook, stirring constantly, for two or three minutes. Then add a teaspoonful of Vanilla, and set to cool. Serve with the pudding, pouring the sauce upon it.

Strawberry Pudding Pouding de Fraisca.

1 Quart of Strawberries. % Pound of 1 Stale, Small Sponge Cake. 6 Eggs. Stew the berries and proceed in the same manner as for Raspberry Pudding.

Quince Pudding is prepared in the same manner.

Sweet Potato Pudding Pouding de Patates Douces. 1_Pint of Mashed Sweet Potatoes. % Pound of Sugar. % Pound of Butter. The Juice and Rind of Two Oranges and a Lemon.

% Spoon of Ground Mace.

The Same of Cinnamon’ and Allspice. Grate the potatoes and mash them through a sieve, if you use them raw. If you use the cold boiled potatoes, simply mash them. Beat the butter and the sugar to a rich cream, and and then add the grated potatoes, and the spices, and finally the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix all well. Turn into a buttered baking pan, and let the pudding bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot or cold, with Cream Sauce. (See recipe.) Tapioca Pudding Pouding au Taptoca.

1 Quart of Milk. 1 cup of Tapioca. % Cup of Sugar. 1 ‘easpoonful of Wash the tapioca well, and then add it to the milk and let it soak for at least two hours and a half. Then beat the eggs separately until light. Add them lightly to the sugar, beat very light, add the salt and the tapioca, and bake for forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. The pudding may be served either hot or cold. To make Tapioca Fruit Pudding, add one pint of preserved raspberries to the above.

The Queen of All Puddings La Reine des Poudings.

1 Pint of Bréad Crumbs.

1 Quart of Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar. 4 Eggs. % Pint of Seeded Currants. % Pint of Raisins.

Soak the bread crumbs in water for about an hour. Then squeeze thoroughly. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar very light, and then add the milk and the bread crumbs, beating all Hight. Add the melted butter and the seeded raisins and the currants, and the juice of one lemon and the grated rind of half a lemon. Beat all thoroughly together, and set in a moderate oven for half an hour. In the meantime, beat the whites to a very stiff froth. Add four table-

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spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and beat thoroughly till very stiff. After half an hour take the pudding out of the oven, if it is nicely browned, and put over the top a layer of some fruit jelly, and then a layer of the whites, and then another layer of the jelly, and a last layer of the whites of the eggs. Set it back in the oven to brown for several minutes, and serve cold with Cream Sauce. This pudding, however, is so delicious that it may be served without any sauce. The above proportions will serve eight persons.

Tipsy Squire Pouding au Bon Carmarde.

Left Over Sponge Cake.

A Boiled Custard.

Make a rich Boiled Custard (see recipe); place the cake in a deep glass dish, and pour the custard over it. Decorate with blanched lemons, and serve cold.

CHAPTER XXXV CUSTARDS AWD CREAMS AWD OTHER DESSERTS Des Flans, Des Orémes, et Autres Desserts Blanc Mange Blanc-Manger.

% Cup of Sugar. % Ounce of Gelatine. Dissolve the gelatine in water, and then mix with the milk and cream. Let it come to a boil, add the Vanilla, pour into a mold, let it harden and serve cold.

Cornstarch Blanc Mange Blanc-Manger @ la Féeule de Mats. 1 Quart of Milk. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Cornstarch. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. Dissolve the cornstarch lightly in one pint of milk, and then add the sugar and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Put this mixture into a pint of boiling milk. Let it come to a boil. Flavor with the lemon; pour into cups to cool. Then, when very cold, turn out, and servé will jelly and cream. This will do for six persons. Serve, if you wish, with Neapolitan Blanc Mange Blanc-Mangcr @ la Neapolitan. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Cornstarch. The Yolk of 1 Egg. The White of 3 Eggs 1 Tablespoonful of Grated Vanilla Choclate. Whipped Cream.

To make a Neapolitan Blanc Manger, first make the above preparation, and then separate it into four parts. Put the first into a mold, and then stir into it, while warm, one heaping tablespoonful of grated vanilla chocolate. Pour the white preparation into the same mold, on top of this. Then a layer of the chocolate, and then the white. Cover the last layer with the yolk of an egg, and set to cool and harden. Serve cut into thin slices, serve with whipped cream.

Velvet Blanc Mange Blanc-Manger Velouté, 2 Cups of Cream.

% Cup of Powdered Sugar.

% Cup of Gelatine, Dissolved in Water Boil the cream, sugar and gelatine together, stirring until smooth. Add a teaspoonful of Almond Extract. Mix well, and pour into a mold, and set to cool and harden.

Boiled Custard Ocuje au Latt.

1 Quart of Milk. 4 Eggs.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Cornstarch. % Cup of Su anilla.

1 Teaspoonful of Set the milk to boil. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar very light. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and stir carefully into the yolks and the sugar. Moisten the cornstarch with a little cold milk and stir into the boiling milk. Continue to stir until it commences to thicken. Then add

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er the sugar and the eggs. Stir and let it cook for one moment longer, and take from the fire, add the vanilla and turn into a dish to cool. Serve very cold.

The cornstarch is added to thicken the custard. If the milk is rich, it may be omitted, the custard being far more delicate without it.

Baked custard without cornstarch is made in the same manner; the custard is put in a baking dish, placed in the oven, and allowed to bake till quite firm. By adding two tablespoonfuls more of cornstarch the custard may be thickened, if desired. Cup Custard Oeufe au Lait en Tasses.

4 Eges. 1 Quart of Milk.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Cornstarch (if desired).

Beat the eggs together until light, and then add the sugar, and beat till very light. Now add the milk and the nutmeg. Fill a large pan with boiling water. Pour the custard into cups or into a smaller pan, and set in the pan of boiling water, and let it bake till firm in the center. Set to cool, and serve in the cups if they have been used.

Custard Souffié Flan Soufié.

1 Cup Milk. 4 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls 1 Tablespoonful Vanilla.

Boil the milk. Blend the butter and the flour nicely, and add to the boiling milk. Stir constantly over the fire for ten minutes. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar together, and add these to the milk. Then set the mixture to cool. When cool, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add to the mixture. Turn into a buttered baking dish, and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes. Serve with Cream Sauce, while hot, otherwise it will fall.

Rice Custard Riz au Latt.

See Rice Custard under chapter on Louisiana Rice.

Tapioca Custard Flan au Tapioca.

% Cup of Tapioca. % Cup of Sugar. 4 Eggs. 1 Pint of Water.

1 Tumbler of Currant or Strawberry Jelly.

Wash the tapioca well several times, and then soak it in a full pint of water for two hours, Add it to the jelly, mixing thoroughly, and then add the sugar, and mix again until the tapioca is very clear. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, and add them to the tapioca, and turn it into a mold and set away to harden. Make a Vanilla Cream Sauce with the yolks of the eggs, and serve cold with the custard. (See Vanilla Cream Sauce.) Almond Custard Flan d’Amandes.

1 Pint of New Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Pound of Blanched Almonds (Scalded).

Blanch the almonds after shelling, and chop very fine. Blend the yolks and sugar, beating thoroughly, and add to the boiling milk. Then add the almonds. Stir well, set into cups to cool. Place on top a meringue made of two tablespoonfuls of white powdered sugar and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Set in the oven for a few seconds to brown, and serve cold.

Macaroon Custard Flan de Macarons, The Yolks of 6 Eggs. %Tablespoonful 1*bozeh Sacnons.

Set the milk to boil. Blend the butter and the flour, and stir into the boiling milk. Beat the yolks of the eggs with half a cup of sugar, very light, and add this to the milk, stirring constantly for one minute, and take from the fire to cool. Add a tablespoonful of orange juice or extract of orange. When cool, crumble one dozen macaroons over.the top of the dish. Make a meringue with the whites of the eggs and two tablespoonfuls of powdered white sygar. Beat to a stiff froth, pile on the custard, and set in the oven for a few minutes to brown. Serve very cold.

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Charlotte Russe 1 Quart of Good Cream.

% Cup of Powdered White Sugar. % Box of Gelatine. 2 Teaspoonfuls of % Pound of Lady Fingers.

Line a glass dish with the lady fingers, or with small slices of cake. Soak the gelatine in cold water, just covered, for half an hour. Whip the cream, and then dissolve the soaked gelatine. Add the Vanilla Extract. Add the sugar to the cream carefully, and then strain in the gelatine very carefully. Stir immediately, and then pour the cream over the lady fingers, and set away to harden.

Parisian Charlotte Russe Charlotte Russe @ la Parisienne. % Pound of Stale Lady Fingers. % Box of Gelatine. 1 Cup Grated Cocoanut. % Pound of Macaroons. 4 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. Soak the gelatine in cold water for about half an hour. Put one-half of the cream to one side, and whip the rest. Put the remaining pint to boil, and stir into it the sugar and eggs, beaten together till very light. Stir abouf one minute, and as it thickens add the gelatine, which has been well dissolved in a little warm water. Then add the lady fingers and a teaspoonful of vanilla; add the macaroons and the grated cocoanut. Turn all this into a bowl or tin basin, place it on ice, and stir continually until it begins to harden. Add the whipped cream, and stir all very carefully. When well mixed, wet a glass dish or a pretty mold, turn the Charlotte Russe into it, and stand on the ice to harden. Some utilize a stale sponge cake in making Charlotte Russe, cutting out the inside and leaving the sides and bottom. about an inch in thickness. The mixture is poured into this cake, and served cold, with sauce. Floating Island Ocufs a la Neige.

4 Eggs. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. % Cup of Currant Jelly.

Put the milk to boil in a farina boiler. Beat the yolks of the eggs with the sugar till very light, and stir the milk into them as it begins to boil. Let it thicken one minute. Then take from the fire, and add the vanilla and set aside to cool. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and when the mixture is cold pour it into a glass dish, heap on the whites of the eggs, and dot here and there with bits of Currant Jelly. Dust these with powdered sugar, and serve very cold. Some add a tablespoonful of cornstarch to the boiling milk, if it is desired to thicken the preparation. But the taste of cornstarch is never as delightful as that of the mixture pure and simple.

Apple Snow Neige auz Pommes.

€ Fine Apples. 1 Cup Fine White Sugar. The Whites of 6 Fresh Eggs. Pare and core and cut up the apples, and steam them in -two tablespoonfuls of water, with a little grated lemon peel, till quite soft. Then press them through a sieve, and add the sugar and the lemon juice. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, and add two-thirds to the apples, stirring all the whites, and when the eges and apples are very light beat this with a Httle powdered white sugar to form a meringue. Place the apples in custard glasses, heap on the meringue, and serve immediately. This preparation may be improved by putting the apples into a dish, heaping on the meringue and baking for one minute in the oven, and serving very cold.

Pineapple Snow Neige @ VAnanas.

1 Pineapple. The Whites of 4 Eggs. % Cup of Powdered Sugar.

Pare the pineapple, and grate it. Beat the whites of the eggs until foamy, and then add by degrees the sifted sugar. Add one tablespoon of lemon juice, and the whipped cream, which must be just off the ice, and when all is very stiff beat in the pineapple, pulp and juice, adding as much as the cream and the meringue will hold without becoming too soft. Place in glasses, and serve yery cold. This is a delightful summer dessert. Orange Snow Neige d’Oranges.

6 Fine Louisiana Oranges.

A Snow Cream, as Above.

Prepare this dish in exactly the same manner as above.

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First slice the oranges, and, removing the seeds, sprinkle sugar over them before adding the snow cream. Lemon Snow may be made in the same manner.

Snow Cream Neige @ la Creme.

1 Pint of Cream, 2 Teaspoonfuls of Vanilla or Lemon Extract.

% Cup of Powdered Sugar.

Whip the cream and set on ice. Beat the whites of the eggs to a foam, and then add the sifted white sugar, and beat steadily till the mixture becomes very stiff and glossy. Add the Lemon or the Vanilla. Stir the whipped cream carefully into the meringue, and set it in small custard glasses to get cold. The Creoles often add a few blanched almonds. Serve very cold, as a summer dessert. Strawberries, black berries, peaches. pears, figs, etc., in their natural state, may all be made into “snows” by following the directions given in Pineapple Snow; only the peaches and pears and figs and bananas must be chopped, and strawberries and other berries must be served whole in the snow. Grated cocoanut may also be served in the same manner. A Creole Summer Pudding Pouding d’Eté.

1 Pint of Lemon Jelly.

1 Cup of Stoned Cherries.

1 Cup of Malaga Grapes. 2 Oranges. 2 Bananas. % Pineapple.

1 Pint of Snow Cream.

Make the Lemon Jelly (see recipe), add stoned cherries, a few Malaga grapes, and the meat of two oranges, two bananas and half a pineapple, sliced. Pour a little jelly into each custard glass. Put a layer first of one fruit, then of another, then a layer of snow cream and continue alternating till the glass is filled with the snow on top. Serve ice cold. Or the layers may be made in a dish, and when ready to serve pour over a thin custard, made of the yolks of four eggs and a quart of milk and a half cup of sugar. Serve very cold. Apple Sponge Souglé de Pommes.

1 Pound of Apples. 1 Pound Sugar. 3 Eggs. Box of Gelatine.

The Grated Rind of a Lemon. % Pint of Boiling Water.

Boil the sugar and water, and when very clear skim the surface. Have the apples pared and cored and sliced Nicely, and place them in the syrup. Let them stew until very tender. Then add the gelatine, which has been soaked in cold water until melted, and when well done press all through a sieve. Then add the rind and juice of the lemon, using only the very thin rind in grating the lemon. Stir until it begins to cool and thicken. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, stirring and beating until cool and thick. Use the yolks for a Vanilla Sauce (see recipe), and turn the Apple Sponge in a dish and serve with the sauce poured over it. Peach Sponge is made in the same way.

Strawberry Sponge Souglé de Fraisee.

% Pint of Strawberries.

% Cup of Sugar. 4 Eges.

1 Pint of Boiling Water.

Stew the strawberries gently, and press them through a sieve. Soak the gelatine in a cup*of cold water for an hour. Pour it into the boiling water, and let it dissolve well. Add the sugar, and let it thicken gently. Then strain, and add the strawberries, and set it upon ice to cool. Occasionally stir to prevent the fruit from settling at the bottom. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add them to the sponge, beating steadily till very smooth. Set in a fancy bowl to harden, and serve with Vanilla Sauce poured over it. (See Vanilla Sauce.) Blackberry Sponge, Lemon Sponge, Orange, Raspberry, Currant and Fig and Pineapple Sponge are made in the’ same way.

Apple Sago Pommes au Sagou..

1 Cup of Sago. 8 Large Apples. 1 Quart of Boiling Water. Sweetened Soak the Sago for half an hour in cold water, and then put it in a farina boiler and add one quart of boiling water. Pare the apples, and add to the Sago, and let all boil together till very tender. Sweeten to taste. Then bake in a moderate oven for twenty minutes, and serve with Tapioca may be used instead of the Sago, and you will then have Apple Tapioca. Cherry, Orange, Peach and other fruit tapiocas and sagoes are made in the same way.

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Ambrosia » Ambrotsie.

1 Dozen Sweet Louisiana Oranges. 1 Cup of White Sugar. 1 Cocoanut Grate the cocoanut after paring. Then peel and slice the oranges, taking out the seeds. Have a nice large glass dish. Put first a layer of oranges in the dish, sprinkle with sugar, and then a layer of cocoanut, till all the oranges and cocoanut are used, the layer of cocoanut being the last. Sprinkle with powdered white sugar, and let it stand about two hours before serving. This is a famous Creole - dessert.

Pineapple and Orange Ambrosia. Ambrotste d’Ananas et d’Oranges: 1 Large, Ripe Pineapple.

6 Oranges. 1 Cup of Sugar. Slice one large, ripé pineapple and six oranges. Put in a glass bowl one layer of oranges, sprinkle pulverized sugar over them; then one layer of pineapples, also sprinkled with sugar, pour over all the strained lemon juice, and continue till all the fruit is used. Let it stand about two hours before serving.

Minute Cake T6t Fait.

6 Eggs. 6 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. 3 Tablespoonfuls Flour. 2 Tablespoonfuls Milk.

The Juice and Rind of a Lemon. Beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream, and then add the sugar, beating thoroughly till very, very. light. Then blend the flour and milk until smooth, and add. Add the juice of the lemon and the grated rind, and beat well again. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a thick froth, turn into a buttered dish and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven. Strawberry Short Cake Paté Brisée aux Fraises.

% Pound of Sifted Flour. % Pound of 2 Quarts of Strawberries.

Stem the strawberries. Sweeten to taste, and slightly mash. Then set them aside. Blend the sugar and butter together until very smooth, and add the baking powder, and blend well. Add-the salt. Then add the eggs, breaking them in whole, one at a time, and beat all well for ten minutes. Add the grated rind of half a@ lemon; by degrees add the flour, and mix all together very gently. Divide inté two parts; put each into a well buttered baking tin ‘and bake in a moderate oven thirty minutes. When done, remove the cakes and allow them to cool. Detach them both from the.tins by passing a knife gently around. Have a dessert dish ready and lay one of the cakes upon it. Spread two tablespoonfuls of whipped cream over, and then cover liberally with strawberries. Cover with another cake and spread as before with cream and then with strawberries. Lay the other cake on top and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Serve with “Whipped Cream a la Vanille” (see recipe), or with rich cream or milk. Peach Shortcake, Raspberry Shortcake and Blackberry Shortcake are made in the same way.

CREAMS Des Oremes.

General Directions for Making Cream Desserts In making creams for desserts, one unfailing rule must be observed. In preparing a cream for six or eight persons, use a half box of powdered gelatine. The gelatine must be soaked for about half an hour before using in water just sufficient to cover it. The cream must always be whipped, the yolks of the eggs must be beaten separately from the whites, and the whites of the eggs must be beaten to a stiff froth. In using flavoring extracts, select, according to taste, Essence of Vanilla, Lemon, Pineapple, Almonds, Aromatic Roses, Orange Flower Water, etc.

Calf’s Foot Jelly, or Gelatine Gelée de Pieds de Veau.

4 Calf’s Feet. 5% Quarts Cold Water. Juice of 2 Lemons. Juice of 2 Oranges, % of the Rind of a Lemon, Grated. The Whites and the Crushed Shells ‘of oss.

1 Pound of White Sugar.

2 Teaspoonfuls of Grated Nutmeg. 1 Stick of ‘Grated Cinnamon. Wash the feet well, scrubbing them thoroughly, in cold water. Then put them into a kettle to boil with the cold water in the above quantity. Let

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them simmer slowly for at least seven or eight hours, till the liquor is reduced one-half. Then strain the liquid into an earthen bowl, and set it away for at least twelve hours, or over night. Then skim carefully every particle of fat from the surface, and remove all sediment or dregs from the jelly. Put it into a porcelain-lined kettle, and set over the fire, and let it melt slowly. Add the whites of the eggs, well beaten to a froth, and the crushed shells, the ground cinnamon, the nutmeg, the sugar and lemon and orange juice, and the rind of the lemon. Mix all these ingredients thoroughly, and let the jelly boil hard, without stirring again, for twenty minutes. Then add half a cup of water, and let it come again to a boil. Set it on a very low fire, where it cannot boil, and keep it closely covered for half an hour. Have ready a flannel bag, and dip it into boiling water. Hang it up with a bowl underneath, and pour the jelly into the bag, suspending the bag from the end of a thick, short pole, where it can drip easily. Tie the end of the bag, and let the jelly drip freely. On no account squeeze or touch it, if you wish to have an unclouded jelly. Then turn the drippings into a bowl or mold, and set the jelly aside in a cool place. You will then have the genuine Calf’s Foot Jelly, and will know that it has not been made of the horns -and hoofs of animals, etc. Whipped Cream Créme Fouettée.

1 Pint of Sweet Cream.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar. In whipping cream remember that the first great essential is to have good cream, and that the great secret of whipping depends upon the right, steady stroke. Always set the cream on ice for several hours before using. Then sweeten it to taste. Have ready a second bowl, beat the cream, or, rather, whip it, as you would in beating eggs to a froth, with clear, steady strkes, using an egg beater, or, if you have a small crank churn, which is better, use it, pressing the dasher up and down very hard, and removing the cream as it rises around the dashboard. In the same way remove the cream as it rises, while beating with the egg beater, putting the whipped portion into the second bowl, and continue the process of whipping until all the cream is drained. Set on ice, and it will keep cool, fresh and sweet and firm.

The above process is intended when the cream is to be used as a garnish for desserts. Any essence may be used. When whipping cream for coffee, or when you desire the plain whipped cream, do not use sugar or essence, but simply proceed to whip the cream as directed above. Good. rich milk may be whipped into the Following the above explicit directions, it should be easy for even the verlest amateur to make any of the following delightful Creole cream desserts:

Whipped Cream and Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Etc. Créme Fouettée auz Fratsce, auw Frambotsce ou aus Mares, etc.

1 Pint_of Berries.

Stem the berries, sprinkle nicely with white sugar, and set aside for several hours in a cool place. Serve wth the whipped cream, dishing the berries first in serving, and heaping the cream prettily on top. ‘Whipped Cream With Peaches, Cherries, Etc.

Créme Fouettée, aux Pechés, auz Certses, etc. 1 Pint of Fruit, Peaches, or Cherries, or Bananas, or Pears, etc.

Stone the peaches, and slice or cut them nicely, adding sugar to taste. In like manner stone, but do not cut the cherries if this fruit is used. If bananas or pears are preferred, peel and slice nicely. Seed the pears. Sprinkle the fruit with sugar, and set it aside in a cool place for two hours; then serve with the whipped cream, heaping it in generous measure at the moment of serving. All fruits that may be eaten with cream are prepared in the same manner.

Whipped Cream With Vanilla, Etc. Créme Fouettée d la Vanille, eto. Put a pint of sweet cream into a basin, add the sugar and the essence and proceed to whip according to the

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——— directions gven in “Whipped Cream” (see recipe.) Always remember to add the essence before whipping the cream. This is the unvarying rule to be observed whenever you wish to flavor with any extract.

Foamy Cream Oréme en Mousse.

Proceed exactly as in the above Whipped Cream With Coffee Oréme Fouettée au Café.

8 Ounces of Extract of Coffee. Make three ounces of Creole Café Noir. (See recipe.) Add three tablespoonfuls of this to the cream and sugar. Then proceed in exactly the same manner as in Whipped Cream with Vanilla. When ready to serve, heap the cream in the center of a very cold dish, and serve immediately. Tight Cream.

Créme Légére.

1 Pint of Milk. 1 Pint of Cream. 4 or 6 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered White Sugar.

To one pint of milk add the same quantity of cream, and four or five tablespoonfuls of powdered white sugar. Let it boil till reduced to onehalf the quantity. Take off the stove, and whip in the beaten whites of two fresh eggs, and, when it is as white as snow, add a half pint of whipped cream. Place upon the fire, and let it simmer gently, stirring continually. Add a tablespoonful of orange flower water, or other essence, take off, let it cool, and serve when cold. Sweet Almond Cream Oréme d’Amandes Douces.

6 Nice Almonds.

1 Quart of Milk, The Whites of Two 4 Ounces of Powdered White Sugar. Take six nice almonds and shell them. Then blanch them by throwing into boiling water and letting them stand over a very low fire for five minutes. Then throw into cold water, and take out the inner skins by rubbing them together with the hands Whip in one quart of milk, the whites of two eggs, and four ounces of powdered sugar. Let the milk boil slowly on the fire till it is reduced one-half. and then add the almonds, which have been chopped very fine, and a big tablespoonful of Orange Flower Water and let the mixture boil for three minutes longer. Set it to cool. Then garnish with almonds that have been passed in Caramel or melted sugar and allowed to cool.

Burnt Cream Oréme au Caramel.

1 Pint of Milk. 1 Pint of Cream. 4 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. The Yolks of 3 Eggs.

1 Teaspoonful of Caramel.

Boil one pint of milk and one pint of cream together. Add four ounces of powdered white sugar and the yolks of three eggs, nicely beaten together till very light. Add one teaspoonful of Caramel (see recipe), let it reduce one-half, strain, garnish nicely with any fruits, and serve cold. Creamed Coffee Créme au Café.

2 Ounces of Finely Ground Coffee. 1 Pint of Milk. % Pint of Cream. Boil two ounces of finely ground and powdered coffee in one pint of milk. Add one-half pint of cream as it begins to boil. Then add the yolks of three eggs, which have been well beaten with four ounces of powdered sugar. Let it reduce one-half, take off and strain till clear, let it cool and serve.

White Coffee Cream Oréme Blanche ax Café.

2 Ounces of Coffee. 1 Pint of Milk. % Pint of Cream. 4 Ounces of Powdered To make a. “Créme Blanche au Café” parch two ounces of coffee, and throw the grains, while hot, into the boiling milk. Then proceed exactly as above.

Chocolate Cream Oréme au Ohocolat.

1 Pint of Milk. 1 Pint of Cream. Yolks of 3 Eggs. 4 Ounces of Sugar. 2 Ounces of Grated Chocolate. Boil one pint of milk and one pint of cream. Add, while boiling, three

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a ] yolks of eggs, beaten well with four ounces of sugar. Stir constantly, and let it reduce one-half. Add two ounces of grated chocolate. Let it boil three or four minutes, take off, and serve when very cold.

Macaroon Cream Créme au Macarons.

6 Macaroons. 1 Pint of Milk. % White Praline.

2 Ounces of Powdered White Sugar. The Yolks of 4 Fresh Eggs. Crumble six macaroons (a macaroon is a small cake, made of almonds and sugar—see recipe), soak them in a pint of milk; add one tablespoonful of Orange Flower Water, in which you have put one-half of a mashed Praline (see recipe Pralines), and add two ounces of sugar, and the yolks of four fresh eggs, well beaten till very light. Set on the stove and let is simmer constantly till reduced almost one-half. Let it cool, and serve in the glass in which it has hardened. Chestnut Cream Oréme de Marrons.

2_Dozen Chestnuts.

Yolks of 2 Eggs.

Shell the chestnuts and blanch them, and pound sufficient quantity to make two ounces reduced to flour. Or roast two dozen chestnuts and peel them (which is far better), and pound them till very fine, and blend with a little milk till you have a thick paste. Add the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and two tablespoonfuls of the best butter. Beat well, and add four ounces of powdered white sugar. Beat all this very light, and put into one pint of boiling milk, or half milk and half cream. Let it boil for about ten minutes, and then take off, strain, decorate in a glass dish, and serve cold. 1 Pint of Peanut Cream Oréme aua Pistaches.

4 Ounces of Fresh Peanuts. The Rind of 1 Lemon. 1 Gill of Water. % Pint Each of Milk and Cream. 1% Ounces of Powdered White Sugar. 1 Ounce of Gelatine.

Peel four ounces of fresh peanuts, and pound them into a flour. The quantity must equal four ounces shelled. Add the grated rind of a lemon, and a little water, sufficient to make all into a thick paste. Boil each quantities of milk and cream to equal a pint and a half, and add an ounce and a half of white powdered sugar. Let it cool, and add an ounce of gelatine, mixed with one spoon of water. Mix well and then strain through a sieve. Put the cream back on the fire to heat, and add the peanuts. Let all come to a good boil, take off and set it aside to cool, and serve very cold. Snow Cream Créme @ la Neige.

1 Pint of Fresh, Sweet Cream. 8 Tablespoonfuls of White Powdered 1 Coffeespoon of Orange Flower Water. Add to one pint of fine, fresh, sweet cream eight tablespoonfuls of white powdered sugar, the whites of two eggs, well beaten to a froth, one coffeespoonful of Orange Flower Water, © and whip all together steadily till the cream rises, taking it out as it does, and putting in another bowl, as in “Créme Fouettée” (see recipe) till all is drained. Place it in a little basket, lined with a fine linen napkin, and serve as quickly as possible. The cream may be varied by coloring it with a little Saffron Powder to make it yellow, with carmine or cochineal to make it pink and rosy, only, when doing this, add a little aromatic essence, such as vanilla, lemon or pineapple.

All the above creams may be served with plain or whipped cream. Bavarian Creams Créme Bavaroise.

% Pint of Gelatine, or % Box. 1 Gill of Cold Water. % Cup of Sugar. First of all, in making all Bavarian creams, follow implicitly the general directions given for making Cream Desserts, viz: Soaking the gelatine, and, before whipping the cream, cool it for at least an hour on the ice. Then put one pint of fresh cream or milk in a farinu boiler, and add the sugar, and bring it to a boil. As it boils pour in the gelatine. Stir con-

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stantly till the latter is well dissolved and blended, and set aside to cool. Beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream, and stir them in the cold cream, blending and beating vigorously. Then add the vanilla and set it away on the ice. When the boiled cream is quite cold, and has begun to thicken, stir it till perfectly smooth, and then stir in the whipped cream with a few light strokes. Have ready the mold or freezer, well rinsed, and fill with the cream. Set it away to cool and when quite firm turn it out, and serve with plain cream or whipped cream. Apricot Bavarian Cream Créme Bavaroise aug Abricots. 1 Pint of Fresh Apricots or 1 Pint Can. % Box of Gelatine, or % Pint. 1 Pint of Cold Water.

Soak the gelatine and whip the cream. If the apricots are fresh, stew them and sweeten to taste. If canned, press them through a colander or sieve. Proceed to add a gelatine which has been dissolved in a little boiling water, and then turn into a bowl. Stand upon cracked ice, and stir constantly till it begins to thicken, and then add the whipped cream, stirring constantly till mixed well. Turn into a mold to harden and serve with whipped cream.

Peach or Plum Bavarian Cream may be made in exactly the same manner as the above, using eight or nine fresh peaches, stoned, or a onepint can of fresh ones. Use one pint of plums, Strawberry Bavarian Cream Créme Bavaroise auw Fratees. 1 Quart of Fresh, Stemmed Strawberries.

% Box of Gelatine, or % Pint. 1 Pint of Cream. 1 Cup of Sugar. Soak the gelatine, and prepare the whipped cream. Then mash the strawberries and press them through a sieve, Add the white powdered sugar. Melt the gelatine by standing over boiling water, and then add it to the strawberry juice. Mix thoroughly. Then turn it into a tin pan or mold, set the basin on a pan of cracked ice, stir constantly till it begins to thicken, and then add the whipped cream, stirring it gradually till all is thoroughly mixed. Then pour into a mold and stand in an ice-cold place to harden.

Raspberry Bavarian Cream Oréme Bavarotee aue Framboises, 1 Pint_of Raspberry Juice. 1 Pint of Cream. % Cup of Sugar. % Pint of Gelatine.

ner as for Strawberry Bavarian Pineapple Bavarian Cream Créme Bavarotse @ VAnanas. 1 Pint of Grated Pineapple. 1 Pint of 1 Cup of Sugar. Pint of Gelatine. % Cup of Cold Water.

Cover the gelatine with the water, and let it soak for half an hour. Then stand it over boiling water, and let it melt. Grate the pineapple, and add the sugar, and let it simmer gently till reduced to a liquid. Then stir the gelatine into the pineapple, and dissolve thoroughly. Place it in a tin vessel and stand over cracked ice, stirring constantly. When it begins to thicken, add the whipped cream, and set away to harden, after turning into the mold. Serve with whipped Lemon Bavarian Cream is made in the same manner.

Coffce Bavarian Cream Oréme Bavarotise au Café.

1 Strong Cup of Café Noir. (See recipe). % Pint of Gelatine. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Cup of Water. 1 Pint of Whipped Soak the gelatine and whip the cream. After half an hour, pour it into the boiling coffee, and dissolve thoroughly. Then add the milk. Let it boil up once, and remove from the fire, and stir in the well beaten yolks of the eggs. Stir steadily and carefully until all the ingredients have thoroughly blended. Then set it on the fire to thicken slightly, stirring all the time, but be careful not to let it boil, or the eggs will curdle. Then set aside to cool slightly; pour it into a basin, and set over cracked ice, and add the whipped cream as it thickens. Then turn into a mold, and set in a cool place to harden. Serve with whipped cream.

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Chocolate Bavarian Cream Créme Bavarotse au Chocolat. 2 Large Tablespoonfuls of Chocolate. 1 Pint Milk, 1 Pint Cream. % Cup Pint of Gelatine.

‘olks of 4 Eggs.

2 Ounces of Best French Chocolate. Prepare the gelatine and cream according to general directions. (See recipe.) Grate the chocolate and set the milk to boil. Then add the grated chocolate, stirring slowly until all is dissolved. Take the saucepan from the fire, and add the sugar, mixing well, and the vanilla. Turn it into a tin vessel to cool; set the vessel over cracked ice, and stir constantly till it begins to thicken. Then stir the whipped cream in carefully, and pour the mixture into a mold, and set in a cool place to harden. Serve with whipped cream.

Orange Bavarian Cream Creme Bavaroise @ VOrange. 6 Louisiana Oranges. The Yolks of & ses.

1 Pint of Cream. 1 Pint of Milk. 1 Cup of Sugar. z Box Gelatine, or 4% ni!

Whip the cream and prepare the gelatine according to general directions. (See recipe Bavarian Cream.) Set the milk to boil, and when it begins to boil add the gelatine. Beat “the yolks of the eggs very light, and add the sugar, beating very light; strain the milk and gelatine, and add the sugar and yolks, stirring constantly till well mixed. Set over the fire for two minutes, and then put it away to cool. When cold, stir in the orange juice, which you must strain through a sieve. Set the basin in a pan of cracked ice, and stir until it begins to thicken, and then stir in the whipped cream very carefully, and at once to turn into a mold to harden. Always wet the mold first with cold water before turning in the cream. When cold, serve with whipped cream. Velvet Cream Oréme Veloutée.

1 Pint of Cream. 1 Pint of Milk. Juice of 1 Lemon. 3 Tablespoontuls % Pint of Gelatine.

Soak the gelatine in the water, and let it dissolve well. Set the milk to boil, and add the powdered sugar. Then dissolve the gelatine in it. Take off the fire, and add, as it cools, essence of vanilla or orange, using about two tablespoonfuls. Mix well. Then add the whipped cream, set over the fire one minute, pour into a mold to harden, and se-ve cold.

Spanish Cream Oréme a VEspagnole.

1 Quart of Milk. The Yolks of 5 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sugar. Pint of Gelatine. Soak the gelatine and whip one pint of cream. Set the milk to boil, and add the gelatine, which you have dissolved well in two tablespoonfuls of milk. Have the eggs and sugar beaten very light, and, as the milk boils up, add the sugar and eggs, but do not let them boil, or the eggs will curdle. Stir well, and turn the gelatine, which has been dissolved very well, into the milk. Then remove from the fire and strain, and add the essence of vanilla. Have the mold ready, clean and well rinsed, and turn the cream into it. Set it on ice to harden, and, when ready to serve, make a cream by whipping the whites of the eggs into the cream which has been whipped with powdered sugar. Turn the cream into a dish, heap this delicate meringue cream over it, and serve very cold.

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PUDDIN CHAPTER XXXVI.

AUCES Sauces de Poudings.

Apple Sauce Sauce aue Pommes.

6 Apples. 1 Pint of Cold Water. % a Lemon, % Pound of Powdered White Sugar. A Teaspoonful of Ground Cinnamon. Peel and quarter and seed the apples, and put them into a saucepan, with a pint of cold water and a half a lemon. Let them boil well for half an hour. Then press the cooked apples through a sieve into a bowl, and add the powdered sugar and the cinnamon. Set back on the stove and let the juice boil for five minutes, and serve with apple puddings, baked apples, dumplings, etc. Apricot Sauce Sauce d’Abricote.

4 Ounces of Apricot Marmalade. 2 Gills of Water.

Put four ounces of Apricot Marmalade (see recipe) into a small saucepan; add the butter and water, and set on a brisk fire; stir constantly until it comes to a boil. Let the mixture cook for two minutes more, and serve with baked apple dumplings, boiled dumplings, or apple pudding, as desired..

Hard Sauce Sauce Dure.

1 Cup of Powdered Sugar. % Cup of Flavoring.

cream; add the flavoring and the powdered cinnamon and serve cold. Caramel Sauce Sauce au Oaramel.

1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Water. 2 Ground Cloves. 1 Stick of Cinnamon. Grated Rind of % Lemon.

Put the sugar in a saucepan and let it melt and brown to a golden yellow; add the water, any desired essence, and the spices, etc., and set to cool after it has boiled three minutes Cream Sauce Bauce & la Oréme,. 1 Pint of Sweet Cream.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar. 1 Nutmeg, Grated.

Add the sugar and essence to the cream; then stir constantly till thoroughly dissolved. Beat vigorously, and then add the nutmeg and set to cool. Serve with stewed apples and other stewed fruits, or fruit puddings. -' Cream of Butter Sauce Sauce a la Créme de Beurre. % Cup of Powdered White Sugar. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Milk or Cream. The Juice and Rind of a Lemon, thick cream, and add the milk or cream gradually. Then place the mixture in a bowl, and stand in a small tin of boiling water (bainmarie) and stir slowly till the sauce is very creamy, but do not allow it to simmer or boil. It will take just three or four minutes. As the thick cream forms, take from the fire, add the lemon and serve with any pudding.

Cream of Vanilla Sauce Sauce 4 la Créme de Vanille, 2 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered White 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. sugar well together, and add the vanilla essence. Beat thoroughly. Boil the milk and add the beaten egg to the milk as it comes to a boil. Stir briskly till it comes to ‘a boil once more.

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aS Custard Sauce Sauce Duchease.

% Cup of Powdered Sugar.

Set the milk to boil. Beat the eggs and sugar to a thick cream and very light, and then stir them into the boiling milk. Stir over the fire till the sauce begins to thicken, and no longer. If you stir too long the sauce will curdle. Take it from the fire and add the Vanilla and serve cold. Foaming Sauce Sauce 2 la Neige.

The Whites of 8 Bite 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Gill of Boiling Water.

stiff froth; melt the sugar in the boiling water. Stir in the frothy whites, and set to cool.

Fruit Sauce Bauce aue Frutts.

4 Peaches, Apples, Apricots or Pears, 1 Cup Sugar. Cup Water. 1 Pint of Flavoring.

Pare the fruit; take out the stones or cores; slice and put in a saucepan with the water and sugar, and let it stew gently until very tender. Then press through a colander or sieve. Set the cream to boil, and then beat it into the fruit thoroughly. Take off the fire, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, set to cool, and serve with fruit puddings made of the same fruits.

Golden Sauce Sauce d’Or.

The Yolks of 2 Eggs. Juice of 1 Lemon. Beat the eggs and sugar until creamy. Set the saucepan in a kettle of boiling water over the fire; add the eggs that have been beaten well. Stir until the sauce becomes a thick cream; then take from the fire, add the juice of a lemon and serve very hot..

Hard Sauce Sauce 4 la Créme Dure.

1 Cup of Powdered White Sugar. The Whites of 2 Pere.

cream and gradually add the whites add the flavoring and heap on a small buttered dish, sprinkle with grated nutmeg, and serve cold.

Hard Sauce, Creole Style Saace Creole.

% Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of Powdered Beat the sugar and butter to a rich cream, add a teaspoonful of vanilla. and serve cold. This is a very excellent sauce for baked dumplings, ete.

Lemon Sauce Sauce au Ottron.

1 Tablespoonful of Cornstarch. 1 Pint of Bolling Water.

1 Ege.

The Juice and Grated Rind of a Lemon.

cream; add the well-beaten egg, and then add the cornstarch, which has been well dissolved in a teaspoonful of water. When well blended pour in slowly the boiling water, stirring all the time, and set over the fire till. it thickens; stir about three minutes. Take from the fire and add the juice and rind of a grated lemon. This sauce is much improved by adding the white of an egg beaten to a stiff froth, after you have taken it from the fire.

Orange Sauce Sauce d’Orange.

1 Cup of Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of The Juice and Grated Rind of 2 1 Teaspoonful Grated Nutmeg.

Beat the sugar, butter and yolks of the eggs to a cream. Then add the water and the juice and grated rind of two oranges. Set to boil in a double boiler; take off the fire and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a froth. Serve either hot or cold. If served cold, add the whites of the eggs at the moment of serving, as also the grated nutmeg. Serve with Orange Pudding, Orange Roly Poly, etc.

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Silvery Sauce Sauce Argentéec.

1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of 1 Tablespoontful of Vanilla or Lemon. 2 Cups of Milk.

Beat the sugar and the butter to a cream. Set the milk to boil, and as it begins to simmer add the sugar and butter. Let it simmer gently for a few minutes, and then take from the fire and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add the essence, stirring till thoroughly mixed. Serve, either hot or cold, with any berry pudding.

Strawberry Sauce Sauce auw Fratecs.

1 Cup of Cream. The Whites of 2 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sugar. % SP of Butter. 1 Cup of Fresh Mashed Strawberries. Mash the strawberries, and press them through a sieve. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream; whip the.cream and beat in the strawberries; then add the berry juice and mix thoroughly. Serve with strawberry pudding, strawberry shortcake, or strawberry pie. It may also be served cold with a plain bread pudding. Blackberry Sauce may be made and served in the same way.

Vanilla Sauce Bauce a VEseence de Vanille. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla. 4 Eggs. 1 Pint of Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of 1 Teaspoontul of Grated Nutmeg. Set the milk to boil, and beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar very light; add to the boiling milk; stir for two minutes over the fire. Take off and add the vanilla and the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth; mix thoroughly, and serve either hot or cold.

Velvet Sauce Bauce Veloutée.

1% Cups of Powdered Sugar. % Cup A Tablespoonfuwl of Cornstarch. 2 Cups of Bolling Water.

cream, and blend the cornstarch with a little cold water to form a paste. Boil the water and add the cornstarch, stirring constantly as it thickens; continue stirring till quite transparent. Then add the butter and sugar, stirring well till perfectly blended, being careful to have the vessel containing the sauce in a bain-marie, or another vessel of boiling water. Add the juice of a lemon or orange, or vanilla extract, according to taste. Serve hot with any pudding.

CHAPTER XXXVII, aa:=a8 CAK E S eae Des Gateauz The mixing and baking of cakes has always been held a very important branch of cookery. The baking is the more difficult part, but good cake making depends quite as much upon the quality and quantity of the ingredients used, and the manner of putting them together. Attention to the most minute detail in mixing is required if you would succeed, as careless mixing will spoil the very best recipe, The greatest accuracy must be followed in proportioning out the ingredients, and using just so much, and no more, Often more flour than the amount specified will cause the cake to crack. The cream, the butter, the eggs, must be of the best quality. A stale egg will spoil the best cake, as will rancid butter. No cake should be flavored with a poor, cheap extract. Care must be exercised in the choice of all the materials, care in the exact weight specified, care in the proper heat of the oven. The following General Directions for Making Cakes should be implicitly followed: A large earthen bowl is the best for mixing and beating the cakes and for beating butter and sugar to a cream,

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as is required in making rich cakes, such as pound cakes, etc.

Measure all ingredients carefully before beginning to make the cake, and have all at hand, within reach. The whites and the yolks of the eggs must always be beaten separately for fancy cakes.

Use the white pulverized sugar in preference to the white granulated for all cakes, except gingerbreads, as it makes a lighter cake. Sift the flour as often as the recipes specify and measure it again after sifting. If you use cream of tartar instead of baking powder, sift the cream of tartar into the flour, and dissolve the soda that must always go with it in a tablespoonful of boiling water, and always add it to the cake before you add the whites of the eggs. One-half teaspoonful of soda and one tablespoonful of cream of tartar may be used instead of one teaspoonful of baking powder where the recipe calls for the latter.

Raisins should always be picked over and seeded before using. In making fruit cake, prepare the fruit the day before.

Currants should be picked over, washed and dried before using. Sift your flour before weighing. All the following recipes are for sifted If you use cups for measurement let them be of the same size for all ingredients for the same cake. Sour milk will make a spongy cake and sweet milk will make a cake with a close grain.

Never mix sweet and sour milk in the same cake. Failure will be the result.

Let the eggs be sound and fresh, and beat thoroughly till light, if you wish your cake to succeed. Do not rely entirely on the baking powder or the soda for the rising. The résult of such flimsy methods will be apparent in the cake.

Rules for Mixing Ingredients Observe the following rules: Always beat the yolks and the ‘whites separately for large cakes. Beat the yolks till they begin to froth and thicken. Beat the whites to a froth so stiff that you can cut through it with a knife.

Beat or stir the butter and sugar to a cream, rubbing both together steadily until they form a perfect cream. Then, and not till then, mix the yolks with the butter and sugar. Beat these together till very’ light. Then add the milk, and mix thoroughly. Sift the baking powder with the flour, and add a little at a time, stirring in well, till all is used up. Then add the whites of the eggs, beating them in thoroughly, and lastly, add the flavoring extract.

Follow without the least variation, the exact order given above in the mixing of ingredients. When the cake is ready to bake, line the pan with a piece of buttered paper. This will prevent the cake from scorching. Then proceed to bake.

Directions for Baking Cake. Have your oven ready.

Test the temperature of the oven before putting the cake in it. If you have a Fahrenheit thermometer, let it be your guide as to the baking heat of the oven—450 degrees is the proper heat for drop cakes, rolls, buns, tea cakes, muffins, puff paste, etc. If you have not a thermometer another good test is to throw a little cornmeal or flour in the center of the oven. If the flour smokes before you can count ten, the oven is too hot. If it smokes at ten, the oven has the proper heat for small cakes. As soon as these are baked the heat will be reduced to 400 degrees Fahrenheit, and then the oven is ready to bake cream puffs, sugar cakes, queen cakes, jumbles, lady fingers, jelly rolls, etc. ‘When these cakes are baked the heat will be reduced to 350 degrees Fahrenheit, and the oven will be just at the proper temperature to bake cup cakes, ginger snaps, gingerbread, spice cakes, etc. Moderate the temperature slightly, and the oven will be ready for the baking of large cakes, such as pound, citron, marble, white, raisin, currant, almond, macaroons, etc. And, after all these cakes are baked. you will have the proper temperature for wedding cake, meringue, aniseed cakes, etc.

Thermometers are so cheap that it will pay the young housekeeper to have one in the house, rather than spoil ingredients by not having the oven at the right baking heat.

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It will be seen from the above that cakes made with butter will require a moderate oven; cakes without butter will require a quick oven. In baking small cakes or cookies have a moderately quick oven. Bake Molasses cakes in a moderately quick oven, and watch carefully, as they burn easily. A large cake will require-more time to bake than a loaf of bread of the same size. From an hour and a half to two hours will be sufficient for a pound cake, To ascertain if the cake is done, wash a stiff broom straw and run it into the center of the cake. Then draw it out, feel it with your fingers, if it is clean and dry, the cake 1s done; if otherwise, the cake requires a little more baking. Never stick in any straw until you think that the cake is done. A thick paper (brown paper is best) spread over the top of the cake after it begins to bake will prevent it from browning too much. If it begins to brown as soon as you put it into the oven, it is an indication that the oven is too hot. Cover the cake with paper, and cool the oven a little. But this is always risky. Try to have the oven of the right temperature. Never move a cake when you have once set it in the oven till the center is perfectly firm and set. If you do, it will fall. If one side seems to be browning faster than the other, have recourse to the brown paper on top. When you set the cake in the oven shut the door very gently and be careful not to jar the cake or it will be heavy. Do not open the door for about ten minutes, and then as little as possible, and very gently. If the cake is browning too quickly, cover with a layer of thick paper. Watch the cake while baking, but never leave the oven door open.

A cake should rise to its full height before the crust begins to form. If it hardens too fast, have recourse immediately to covering with paper. Keep the oven at a steady, regular heat, the same at the top as at the bottom.

Never take the cake out of the oven until you are sure it is done. The broom splint, clean and dry, run through the center, is an infallible test.

Let the cake cool in the pan in which it was baked, as it is apt to become heavy if turned out while hot. Never handle the cake while hot. If the cake is streaky it shows that it was not mixed properly, or that the baking was rapid or unequal, or that the oven’s temperature suddenly decreased before the cake was done. When the cake is cool if you wish to ice it, proceed as follows: How to Ice Cakes Take one pound of pulverized sugar and the whites of two eggs which have been in the refrigerator for about an hour before using. Beat the eggs and the sugar and a teaspoonful of rose or orange flower water or vanilla essence together till the eggs are very light. In commencing to beat do not beat the whites separately. Break them into a cold, shallow dish, and throw in a handful of sugar at a time, beating meanwhile, and adding at short intervals, till you have used up all the sugar. Or beat the whites and the sugar and essence together. When the mixture is stiff and smooth, begin to lay a thin coating of icing over the cake, using a knife to spread it, and occastfonally dipping the knife into the lemon juice, which will enable you to smooth it nicely. When it is covered with this first coat, set in a warm place to harden—or in a moderate oven, where you may let it remain about four minutes, or in the sunshine where there is no dust around. When it is hardened it will be ready for the next coat. Proceed as above. This coat will be much smoother and whiter than the first. Let the thickness of the icing always be such that it will run slowly. When the icing is well prepared this will give a smooth, glossy surface. Instead of the essence, the juice of a lemon (one tablespoonful) may be added to the icing. If you wish to use ornaments, secure a piping tube, and place the ornaments around the cake while moist, running a plain tube around the edge of the cake, and then covering the cake with a thin icing level with the rim. Let it run smooth, and dry in the sun or in the oven. The sun is always best, if you are not in a very great hurry.

The above recipe is for plain icing. It may be varied according to taste by using pineapple, strawberry, or

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eee ee other flavoring. In using strawberry icing, add a few drops of cochineal to color. For further particulars as to different icings for cakes, see special section on “Icings and Frostings for Cakes.”

The Picayune Cake Gateau Picayunc.

1 Cup of Finely Sifted Flour. 1 Cup of Fine white Sugar. Whites of SEs.

1 Teaspoonful Lemon.

stiff froth, after which very little beating will be required. Add slowly a heaping cupful of fine white sugar, and one cup of flour, both of which have been sifted four times to reach this measurement. Then add one teaspoonful each of vanilla and lemon extract, and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, just before putting into the oven. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty-five minutes.

Almond Cake Géteau d'.Amandes, ib Pound of Sifted Flour.

6 Ounces Sweet Almonds. Rind of 2 Lemons. Rind of 1 Orange. % Teaspoonful Salt. 1_ Tablespoonful of Orange Flower Water.

Beat the yolks of the eggs and the whites separately, beating the latter to a stiff froth. Blanch the almonds, and peel them and pound them to a fine flour in a mortar. Grate the rind of the oranges and lemons carefully, and mix well. Beat the sugar and the yolks of the eggs to a cream, and gradually add onehalf of the flour, beating well. Then add the almonds, mixing thoroughly, and, after beating vigorously, add onehalf of the whites of the eggs. Beat well, add the remainder of the flour, and then add the remainder of the eggs. Finally add the orange flower water, and mix lightly. Butter a paper, put it in a cake pan, and pour in the mixture, and bake for one hour in a moderate oven.

Angel Cake Gateau d’Ange. Siftea 1% Cups of Granulated Sugar, ted. 1 bup Bittea Flour. The hites of 11 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Cream of artar. 1 Teaspoonful Vanilla. % Teaspoonful Salt.

Sift the flour four times, and then put in the cream of tartar, mix well, 1 Pound of Sifted Loaf Sugar.. and sift a fifth time. Sift the sugar four times. Have the whites of the eggs beaten to a very stiff froth, so stiff that they may be cut with a knife clearly. Then add the flour by degrees, beating all the time. Lastly, add the flavoring extract. Do not butter the pan for this cake, but turn the mixture quickly into an ungreased Turk’s head pan (a pan with a tube in the middle), and bake for threequarters of an hour in a moderate oven. Test with a broom wisp. When done, turn the cake upside down, resting on the tube of the pan, and let it cool. The cake will fall out of the pan.

Angel’s Food Biscuit d’Ange.

1% Cups of Sifted, Powdered White ugar.

1 Cup Sifted Flour. The Whites of 11 1 Teaspoonful Vanilla. ¥% Teaspoonful alt.

Put the baking powder and the. salt (or use cream of tartar instead of baking powder) into the flour, and sift it seven times. If you use cream of tartar, add it in the last sifting. Sift the sugar seven times. Beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, and add gradually the sugar, mixing very carefully. Then add the flour, gradually beating all the while, and lastly add the flavoring extract. Pour the mixture into a Turk’s head baking pan (ungreased), and bake for fortyfive minutes in a moderate oven. Test with a broom wisp. When done, turn the cake upside down, resting the pan on the tube till the cake falls off. Archangel Cake Géteau d’Archange ou Gateau de VAnge Gabriel 1 Cup of Butter. 2 Cups of Sifted Flour. 1 Cup of White Pulverized Sugar. stiff froth. Add the baking powder to the flour, and sift it three times. Sift the sugar three times. Beat the butter, which has been well-washed, to a cream with sugar. Then gradually add the flour, beating all-the while, and the flavoring extract. Lastly, add the whites, which must be very stiff. Mix all thoroughly, and bake for about half an hour in a mod-

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SS erately quick oven. Use a Turk’s head tin. (Follow directions for baking cake.) Banana Mcringue Cake Gateau de Bananes Meringué. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. % Pound Flour.

3 Bananas. 1 Cup of Cream Sauce. Make a Sponge Cake; and slice it across into two parts; slice bananas lengthwise very nicely, put them on the bottom layer of cake, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and then spread over all a little Cream Sauce, which you will have made to the consistency of Cream Puff filling. Put over this the second layer of cake, and then repeat the process of spreading the bananas and cream on the layer. Make a meringue with the whites of three eggs and three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and spread this over the whole. Set in a quick oven bake to a nice, delicate brown, and serve, either hot or cold, with a Black Cake Gateau Noir.

1 Pound of Brown Sugar. 1 Pound of 1 Pound of Flour. 2 Pounds Currants.

2 Pounds of Seeded Raisins. % Pound of Citron, Cut Very Thin. % Pound of Chipped Figs.

1 Glass of Jelly.

1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice. 1 Pound Almonds, Blanched and Chopped. 12 Eggs.

1 Teaspoonful of Extract of Cinnamon. 1 Teaspoonful Cloves. 2 Teaspoonfuls ‘Wash and cleanse the currants thoroughly. Seed the raisins. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Then add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Add one-half of the flour and the spices. Mix all of the fruit in the remaining flour, having first sliced the citron very thin, and add to the mixture. Then add the jelly, which should be homemade and of the best quality, Otherwise, add one cup of the best Louisiana molasses. Mix thoroughly and put in it the tablespoon of lemon juice. Add the whites of the eggs last. Divide into two tins, which must be lined with wellgreased paper. Bake for four hours in a slow oven. Test with the broom wisp. If not done through cook longer, watching carefully, and using the test till the straw is dry. Buttermilk Cake Gateau au Babeurre.

2 Cups of Buttermilk. 3 Cups of Sugar. Eggs. % Teaspoonful of Soda. then add the sugar, which has been sifted fine. Beat to a cream. Add the yolks of the eggs and continue beating till very light. Mash the soda in the buttermilk, dissolving thoroughly, first in a half cupful, and then mixing well with the remainder of the milk. Add this to the eggs and butter. Then gradually add the sifted flour, and beat till very smooth. Lastly add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake for forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Bride’s Cake Gateau d’Epousée 3 Cups of White Pulverized Sugar. 1 Cup of Butter. 4 Cups of Sifted Flour. % Cup of Cornstarch.

2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking owder. 1 Cup of Sweet Milk.

1 Teaspoonful of Extract of Lemon. stiff froth. Sift the flour and baking powder. Sift the sugar. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Beat till very light. Mix the cornstarch with the sweet milk and add to the sugar and butter, beating well. Then add gradually the flour, mixing thoroughly, and beatfng light. Add the extract of lemon, and finally the froth. Bake one hour in a moderate oven, using the broom wisp test. If not done, bake a little longer. Chocolate Loaf Cake Gateau au Chocolat.

1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1g Cups of Sifted Flour. % Cup of Milk. Yolks of 8 Eggs. White of 1 Egg.

% Cake of Grated Chocolate. Dissolve the chocolate in the cup of milk, and boil till thick. Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually add the sugar, beating constantly. Then add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Sift the flour, and add

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Ny —— ee) EE the baking powder, and sift again. Then add the flour gradually to the mixture, beating all the while. Now add the chocolate, and beat very vigorously. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add to the mixture. Then add the essence, beating lightly again, and turn into a greased pan and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour or an hour.

Chocolate Cake, Creole Style Gateau au Chocolat a la Créole. % Cup of Butter. 4 Eggs.

4 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Chocolate, or 2 Ounces.

% Cup of Milk. 1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla. 1 Heaping Teaspoonful of Baking Powder.:

gradually add the sugar, beating constantly. When very light, add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till these are very light. Then add the milk and the chocolate, which has been well dissolved in four tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Mix thoroughly, and add by degrees the flour, beating all the while. Give a very vigorous beating and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Stir them very carefully into the batter, and add the vanilla, and finally the baking powder. Mix all very quickly and lightly, and set to bake in buttered pans in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Citron Cake Géteau au Cédrat.

1 Quart of Flour. 1 Cup of Butter. 1% Cups of Cream.

1 Cup of Chopped Citron.

1 Teaspoonful of Almond Extract. Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar, and beat till very light. Then add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Add the cream, and mix thoroughly, and then add by degrees the citron, mixing thoroughly. Now, by degrees, add the flour, well-sifted. Beat well. Lastly add whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix all quickly and lightly; add the almond extract, mix lightly, and then set to bake in a buttered pan in a moderate oven for one hour. Clove Cake Gateau de Giroflee.

1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Sour Cream 1 Egg. % Cup of Flour.

1 Teaspoonful of Soda. A Pinch of Salt, Beat the sugar and the yolk of the egg to a cream. Add the cream and soda blended. Mix thoroughly. Then add the cloves, and mix well. Sift the flour and salt together, and add gradually, beating all the while. Give several vigorous beats, and set to bake in a buttered tin in a moderate oven for forty-five minutes, Cocoanut Loaf Cake Gateau au Cuco.

% Pound of Butter. 2 Cups Grated Cocoanut.

% Cup Butter. % Pound of Flour. The Juice and Grated Rind of 1 Lemon. rich cream. Add the yolks of the eggs and beat till very light. Then add the milk, and the flour by degrees, beating all the while, and then add the lemon. Beat well. Add the cocoanut, and stir in carefully and well. Sift the baking powder over the whites of the eggs, which have been well beaten to a stiff froth, and add these, beating lightly and thoroughly. Have ready two loaf pans, and line them with very thin buttered paper. Now divide the batter into two even parts, filling each pan about three-quarters full. Set in a moderate oven, and bake for forty-five minutes. When done, cover the top with finelygrated cocoanut, and sift powdered sugar over it. Set it to cool. Coffee Cake Gateau de Café.

1 Cup of Café Noir (Black Coffee). 4 Eggs. 4 Cups of Flour.

1 Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of Molasses. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Seeded Raisins. 1 Cup of Currants, Washed and Dried. % Teaspoonful of Cloves, % Teaspoonful of Soda, Dissolved in Warm Water.

Wash and cream the butter. Add the sugar and beat till very light. Then add the yolks of the eggs. Beat them into the butter and sugar till very light. Add the molasses, and mix thoroughly. Then take the seed-

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NS ed — erately quick oven. Use a Turk's head tin. (Follow directions for baking cake.) Banana Mcringue Cake Gateau de Bananes Meringué. 9 Bags.

1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. % Pound Flour.

3 Bananas. 1 Cup of Cream Sauce. Make a Sponge Cake; and slice it across into two parts; slice bananas lengthwise very nicely, put them on “the bottom layer of cake, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and then spread over all a little Cream Sauce, which you will have made to the consistency of Cream Puff filling. Put over this the second layer of cake, and then repeat the process of spreading the bananas and cream on the layer. Make a meringue with the whites of three eggs and three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and spread this over the whole. Set in a quick oven bake to a nice, delicate brown, and serve, either hot or cold, with a Black Cake Gateau Noir, 1 Pound of Brown Sugar. 1 Pound of 1 Pound of Flour. 2 Pounds Currants.

2 Pounds of Seeded Raisins. % Pound of Citron, Cut Very Thin. % Pound of Chipped Figs.

1 Glass of Jelly.

1 Tablespoon Lemon Juice. 1 Pound Almonds, Blanched and Chopped. 12 Eges.

1 Teaspoonful of Extract of Cinnamon. 1 Teaspoonful Cloves. 2 Teaspoonfuls “Wash and cleanse the currants thoroughly. Seed the raisins. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Then add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Add one-half of the flour and the spices. Mix all of the fruit in the remaining flour, having first sliced the citron very thin, and add to the mixture. Then add the jelly, which should be homemade and of the best quality, Otherwise, add one cup of the best Louisiana molasses. Mix thoroughly and put in it the tablespoon of lemon juice. Add the whites of the eggs last. Divide into two tins, which must be lined with wellgreased paper. Bake for four hours in a slow oven. Test with the broom wisp. If not done through cook longer, watching carefully, and using the test till the straw is dry. Buttermilk Cake Géteau au Babeurre.

2 Cups of Buttermilk. 3 Cups of Suger. Eggs. % Teaspoonful of Soda. then add the sugar, which has been sifted fine. Beat to a cream. Add the yolks of the eggs and continue beating till very light. Mash the soda in the buttermilk, dissolving thoroughly, first in a half cupful, and then mixing well with the remainder of the milk. Add this to the eggs and butter. Then gradually add the sifted flour, and beat till very smooth. Lastly add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake for forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Bride’s Cake Gateau d’Epousée 3 Cups of White Pulverized Sugar. 1 Cup of Butter. 4 Cups of Sifted Flour. % Cup of Cornstarch.

1 Cup of Sweet Milk.

1 Teaspoonful of Extract of Lemon. stiff froth. Sift the flour and baking powder. Sift the sugar. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream. Beat till very light. Mix the cornstarch with the sweet milk and add to the sugar and butter, beating well. Then add gradually the flour, mixing thoroughly, and beatfng light. Add the extract of lemon, and finally the froth. Bake one hour in a moderate oven, using the broom wisp test. If not done, bake a little longer. Chocolate Loaf Cake Gateau au Chocolat.

1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1% Cups of Sifted Flour. % Cup of Milk. Yolks of 8 Eggs. White of 1 ERE.

¥% Cake of Grated Chocolate. Dissolve the chocolate in the cup of milk, and boil till thick. Beat the butter to a cream, and gradually add the sugar, beating constantly. Then add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Sift the flour, and add

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\ TS the baking powder, and sift again. Then add the flour gradually to the mixture, beating all the while. Now add the chocolate, and beat very vigorously. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add to the mixture. Then add the essence, beating lightly again, and turn into a greased pan and bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour or an hour.

Chocolate Cake, Creole Style Gateau au Chocolat a la Créole. % Cup of Butter. 4 Eggs.

4 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Chocolate, or 2 Ounces.

% Cup of Milk. 1 _Teaspoonful of Vanilla, 1 Heaping Teaspoonful of Baking Powder.

gradually add the sugar, beating constantly. When very light, add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till these are very light. Then add the milk and the chocolate, which has been well dissolved in four tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Mix thoroughly, and add by degrees the flour, beating all the while. Give a very vigorous beating and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Stir them very carefully into the batter, and add the vanilla, and finally the baking powder. Mix all very quickly and lightly, and set to bake in buttered pans in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Citron Cake Gateau au Cédrat.

1 Quart of Flour. 1 Cup of Butter. 1% Cups of Cream.

1 Cup of Chopped Citron.

1 Teaspoonful of Almond Extract. Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar, and beat till very light. Then add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Add the cream, and mix thoroughly, and then add by degrees the citron, mixing thoroughly. Now, by degrees, add the flour, well-sifted. Beat well. Lastly add whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix all quickly and lightly; add the almond extract, mix lightly, and then set to bake in a buttered pan in a moderate oven for one hour. Clove Cake Gdteau de Girofles.

1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Sour Cream 1 Egg. % Cup of Flour.

1 Teaspoonful of Soda. A Pinch of Salt, Beat the sugar and the yolk of the egg to a cream. Add the cream and soda blended. Mix thoroughly. Then add the cloves, and mix well. Sift the flour and salt together, and add gradually, beating all the while. Give several vigorous beats, and set to bake in a buttered tin in a moderate oven for forty-five minutes, Cocoanut Loaf Cake Gatcau au Coco.

% Pound of Butter. 2 Cups Grated Cocoanut.

5 Eggs. 1 Cup of Milk.

% Cup Butter. % Pound of Flour. The Juice and Grated Rind of 1 Lemon. rich cream. Add the yolks of the eggs and beat till very light. Then add the milk, and the flour by degrees, beating all the while, and then add the lemon. Beat well. Add the cocoanut, and stir in carefully and well. Sift the baking powder over the whites of the eggs, which have been well beaten to a stiff froth, and add these, beating lightly and thoroughly. Have ready two loaf pans, and line them with very thin buttered paper. Now divide the batter into two even parts, filling each pan about three-quarters full. Set in a moderate oven, and bake for forty-five minutes. When done, cover the top with finelygrated cocoanut, and sift powdered sugar over it. Set it to cool. Coffee Cake Gateau de Café.

1 Cup of Café Noir (Black Coffee). 4 Eges. 4 Cups of Flour.

1 Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of Molasses. 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Seeded Raisins. 1 Cup of Currants, Washed and Dried. % Teaspoonful of Cloves, % Teaspoonful of Soda, Dissolved in Warm Water.

Wash and cream the butter. Add the sugar and beat till very light. Then add the yolks of the eggs. Beat them into the butter and sugar till very light. Add the molasses, and mix thoroughly. Then take the seed-

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ed currants and raisins and blend them with one-half of the flour and add gradually. Now, add by degrees the remainder of the flour, beating vigorously. Then add the coffee, and mix well. Add the soda, dissolved in hot water. Add the spices, mix well, and finally add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix thoroughly but lightly, divide into two parts, set in two greased paperlined tins, and bake from forty-five minutes to one hour in a moderate oven.

Caramel Cake Gateau au Caramel.

1 Cup of Milk. 1% Cups of Flour, Sifted.

1 Cup of Cornstarch.

Whites of 7 Fees.

Cream the butter, add the sugar, and beat till very Nght. Then add the milk. Mix well. Sift the flour, cornstarch and baking powder together, and add gradually to the mixture, beating vigorously all the while. Then add the vanilla and the whites Mix all quickly and lightly, turn into a long pan, and bake for about half an hour in a moderate oven. Apply the broom wisp test. When done, take out of the oven and set to cool. When cool, take 2 Cups of Brown Sugar.

1 Cup Sweet Cream. 2 Teaspoontuls Boil all together till it sugars, then spread over the top and sides. Or, if you wish something much nicer, make the following mixture: 1 cup brown sugar, % pound chocolate, % cup milk, 1 tablespoonful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of vanilla. Grate the chocolate, and set all to boiling together until thick enough to spread over the top and sides of the cake.

Cup Cake Gateau Sarote.

3 Cups of Flour. 4 Eggs.

1 Teaspoonful of Lemon or Rose Exract.

Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar gradually, beating all the while. Then beat the yolks until they are very light, and add to the. mixture. Add the milk. Mix well, and add half of the flour, which has been well sifted with the baking powder. Then add the _ well-beaten. whites of the eggs, and the remainder of the flour, and the extract of Lemon or Rose. Finally add the baking powder, mix quickly and lightly, turn into a Turk’s head pan, which has been well lined with greased paper, and bake for forty-five minutes in a moderate oven.

One, Two, Three, Four Cup Cake Un, Deuz, Trois, Quatre 3 Cups of Flour. 4 Eggs.

Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar. Beat till very light. Beat the eggs (yolks and whites together) till very light, and add them gradually to the butter and the sugar. beating all the while. Beat vigorously. Add the sifted flour, and beat thoroughly until very light. Then line a round cake pan with the buttered paper, and fill with the mixture. Set in a moderate oven, and bake for one hour and a quarter. Cake Without Eggs.

Gateau Sans Oeufs.

2 Cups of Sifted Flour. 1 Cup of Milk. 1% Cups of Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls Beat the sugar and the butter to a cream, and then add the milk, stirring carefully. Add the flour, and beat well and hard. Then add the salt, flavoring extract and baking powder. Mix all thoroughly, and bake in a moderate oven for a half hour. Delicate Cake Gateau Délicat.

1% Cups of Flour. 1% Cups of Sugar. 4, Cup of Cornstarch, Sifted With the Flour.

% Cup of Butter. % Cup of Milk. 2 Teaspoonfuls Baking Powder. % Teaspoonful of Extract of Lemon. % Teaspoonful Salt.

Cream the butter and beat it with the sugar till foamy. Add the milk, and stir carefully. Then add gradually the flour, into which has been sifted the salt and the cornstarch. and mix thoroughly. Then add the flavoring extract, and, lastly, the

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froth. Sift the baking powder over the whites. Mix quickly and lightly with the batter and bake forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Dried Fruit Cake.

Gateau de Fruita Secs.

3 Cups of Dried Apples, Peaches or Any Kind of Dried Fruits.

2 Cups of Louisiana Molasses. 1 Cup of Milk. 2 Eggs. % Cup of % Teaspoonful Each of Ground Cloves and Mace.

4 Pound of Stoned Raisins. % Grated Nutmeg. % Teaspoonful Salt. 1% Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder or Soak the fruit over night. Then chop very fine, and simmer in a saucepan with the molasses for two hours and a half. Let it cool. Seed the raisins. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, until very light. Add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till light. Now add the milk and then the fruit and molasses, stirring carefully. Beat hard for five minutes. Now add the flour, which has been well sifted with the baking powder, and beat vigorously for five minutes. If you use soda, dissolve it at this point with a tablespoonful of boiling water, and add, mixing well. Then add the raisins, and beat vigorously, and the spices and salt. Add the juice of the lemon, and finally the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. The batter must be stiff, but of sufficient elasticity to drop from the spoon. Bake in a moderate oven for two hours. Use a broom wisp test; if it comes out clean and dry, then the cake is done..

Fig Cake Gatcau de Figues.

1 Cup Butter. 2 Cups Sugar. 1 Cup Milk. 3 Cups of Seeded Raisins.

1 Pound of Figs, Chopped Very Fine. 1Egg. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Power.

% Teaspoonful of Salt. % Grated Beat the butter to a cream and add the sugar. Then beat very light, and add the egg. Beat well and add the milk; carefully and gradually add the flour, into which you have sifted the baking powder. Add the raisins and _the figs, and beat thoroughly; add the grated nutmeg, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. Bake slowly, and use the broom wisp test. If not done, bake longer, till the straw comes out clean and dry.

Fruit Cake Gateau de Fruits.

% Pound of Grated Lemon and Orange Peel Mixed.

% Pound Raisins.

% Pound of Preserved Cherries. % Pounds of Sultanas.

% Pound of Preserved Figs. ¥% Pound of Citron.

% Pound of Preserved Apricots. % Pound of Sifted Flour.

% Pound of Preserved Pineapple. ¥% Pound of Mashed Almonds. % Tablespoontul of Mace.

8 Eggs. % Tablespoonful Ground Cinnamon.

The Juice of 2 Oranges.

1-8 Tablespoonful of Cloves. 1-8 Tablespoonful Ground Allspice. % Teaspoonful of It.

Prepare the fruit first. Stone the raisins, picking carefully. Pick over the Sultanas carefully, and wash them well. Then cut the orange and lemon rind very fine, almost grating. Cut the citron very, very fine. Cut all the remaining fruit into quarterinch dice, or very small pieces. You may use the candied fruit, but the preserved is recommended as better and lighter and more digestible. Beat the butter to a rich cream, and then add the sugar, and beat all till very light. Beat the yolks and the whites of the eggs together and then add them to the sugar and butter, and then beat again light. Sift the salt and baking powder and flour together, and gradually add it to the mixture, beating vigorously till light. Then mix all the fruits together, dredging with flour, so as to keep them apart, and then add the spices to the batter. Mix well, and add ths fruit. Mix thoroughly. Beat all together ell once more, and then line a cake pan with buttered paper, and turn the mixture into it, and bake in a very slow, steady oven for four and a half hours. Use the broom wisp test. When it comes out clean and dry the cake is done. Then let it stand over night in the pan to cool. In the morning take it out and remove the paper.

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en ) Plain Fruit Cake Gétcau de Fruita Sans Fagon. 1 Pound of Brown Sugar. 1 Pound of 10 Eggs. 2 Pounds of Seeded Raisins. 2 Pounds of Currants. 1 Pound of Citron. % Pound of Almonds. 1 Nutmeg. 1 Teaspoonful Each of Ground Allspice and Cinnamon.

% Teaspoonful Each of Ground Mace and Cloves, Pound of Sifted Flour.

The Rind Each of an Orange and The Juice of 2 Oranges and 1 Isemon. Prepare the fruit by seeding the raisins, washing and drying the currants, cutting the citron into shreds and dice and mashing the almonds. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream and add the eggs, which you must first beat till very light, without separating whites and yolks. Beat these into the sugar and butter till very light, and then add the flour gradually and the spices. Sift the flour with the baking powder and salt, and then mix the fruit with it before adding to the cake. Beat vigorously. Then add the grated rind of the orange and lemon, and the juices of both. Stir well. Divide the batter into two pans, which have been well lined with greased paper, and bake in a steadily moderate oven for four hours. Use the broom wisp test, and if it comes out clean and dry the cake is done. If not, let the cake bake from a quarter to a half hour longer, watching carefully. This will make a nine-pound cake, or two four-and-a-half-pound cakes. When done, put the cake into an earthenware bowl, with a fiat bottom.

Ginger Cake Gateau au Gingemodre.

3 Cups of Flour. 2 Eggs.

% Cup of Milk or Sour Cream, 1 Teaspoonful of Soda or Baking Power.

% Cup of Butter or Lard.

1 Tablespoonful of Ground Ginger, or 1 Tablespoonful Each of Ground Cinnamon and Ginger.

1% Cups of Louisiana Molasses. Beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream and then add the melted butter, beating till very light. Sift the baking powder and the flour together, and add the ginger, mixing well; then add the milk and the molasses to the butt-r and eggs, mixing thoroughly. When well blended, add the flour and ginger and baking powder (mixed), and beat vigorously. Finally add the froth, turn into a well-greased tin, and bake in a moderate oven for forty-five minutes. Use the broom wisp test before taking the cake out of the oven.

Ginger Bread Pain d’Epices. % Pound of Butter. % Pound of Sugar. 3 Pints of Flour.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Ground Ginger. 1 Pint of Sweet Milk or Sour Cream. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda or Baking Power.

1 Pint of Louisiana Molasses. then add the sugar. Beat till very light, and then beat the yolks of the eggs till creamy and add to the butter and sugar. Beat very light. Now add the molasses and stir well, mixing thoroughly; then add the milk and mix well into the flour, with which has been well sifted the baking powder, and beat till very smooth. Then add the ground ginger and cinnamon; mix well; and finally add the froth; mix well and pour into two well-greased, shallow tins. Bake in @ moderate oven for forty minutes, using the broom wisp test before taking out of the oven. Sprinkle with white sugar and setve, either hot or cold. If soda is used, dissolve it in a tablespoonful of boiling water and add to the molasses; then add to the butter and sugar before adding the flour and milk. Some beat the whites and yolks together; but the bread is much lighter and more delicate when the whites and yolks are beaten separately.

Stage Planks, or Gingerbread Without Butter or Eggs Estomac Mulétre 1 Cup of Molasses. 1 Cup of Sour Milk. 1. Tablespoonful of Ground Ginger. 1 Gill of Lard. 3 Cups of Flour. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Soda. Melt the molasses, lard and ginger together and blend well. When thoroughly melted and warmed, beat for about ten minutes. Then dissolve the soda in a tablespoonful of boiling water and add to the molasses; mix it thoroughly, and then add the flour, using good judgment and adding just enough of the three cups of sifted flour to make a stiff batter; beat thor-

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oughly and vigorously. Have ready several greased shallow pans; pour the mixture into them and bake for ten minutes in a quick oven. French-Creole Cake Géteau Francaie-Créole.

1 Pound of Sifted Sugar (White Pulverzed).

The Grated Peel of 1 Lemon. 12 E % Pound of Sifted Flow es. ‘ound o 8 our.

% Pound of Mashed Rice (Dried). 1 Tablespoonful of Baking Powder. 4 Ounces Sweet Almonds.

1 Ounce of Bitter Almonds. stiff froth, after having blanched and peeled the almonds and pounded them to a fine powder in a mortar. Beat the yolks of the eggs very light, and gradually add the rice, which has been well mashed. Mix the almonds thoroughly with the flour; then add these gradually to the sugar, beating vigorously. Add the grated rind of the lemon and the essence, and finally add the whites of the eggs and mix lightly and quickly. Line the bottom and sides of the pan with well buttered paper, and bake the cake in a moderate oven for one hour.

Fruit Gingerbread Pain d’Epices aua Fruits 1 Pound of Flour. % Pound of Butter. 1 Cup of Louisiana Molasses. Pound of Raisins.

Y% Pound of Currants,..ashed and Dried.

% Cup of Sour Cream. 3 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Soda or Baking Powder (Level).

1 Teaspoonful of Ground Ginger. % Teaspoonful Each of Ground Cinnamon and Cloves.

cream, and warm the molasses and beat with the sugar and butter. Then and the milk and spices and ginger, mixing thoroughly. Add the soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of boil-ing water; mix well, and mix the seeded raisins and currants well; then add the flour by degrees, beating vigorously. Finally add the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and beat thoroughly. Put in two shallow pans in the oven for about two hours. The broom wisp test must be used before taking the cake out of the oven. Gold Cake Gateaw d’Or.

1% Cups of Sugar. 1 Cup of Milk. 3 Cups of Flour. The Yolks of 6 Eggs. Beat the butter to a cream; add the sugar and beat till very light. Then beat vigorously till light, and gradually add the flour, into which has been well sifted the baking powder. Bake for forty-five minutes in a moderate oven. Save the whites of the eggs for Silver Cake.

Silver Cake Gateau <Argenté.

% Cup of Butter. i’ Cups of Sugar. 1 Cup of Milk. 3 Cups of Flour. Beat the butter to a cream; then add the well-beaten sugar and beat well; add the yolks of the eggs and beat till very light. Then add the milk and mix carefully. Now sift the flour and baking powder together, and add gradually to the mixture. Turn into a buttered pan and bake in a moderate oven for forty-five minutes. Honey Cake Gateau de Miel.

1 Teaspoonful of Honey.

1 Teaspoonful of Sugar.

% Teaspoonful of Melted Butter. 1 Pint of Flour. 2 Eggs.

1 Teaspoonful of Carraway Seeds. This is a very popular Creole cake. Mix well together one teacupful each of honey and sugar. Add a half teaspoonful of melted butter and the yolks of two well-beaten eggs; sift one teaspoonful of baking powder into a pint of flour and add. Beat all together till very light, and add stiff froth. Finally, add a teaspoonful of carraway seed, if desired, and bake in a moderate oven from onehalf to three-quarters of an hour. Imperial Cake Géteau Impérial.

1 Pound of Butter. 1 Pound of Sugar. The Juice and Rind of 1 Lemon. 1 Pound of Blanched Almonds. % Pound of Citron.

% Pound of Raisins. 9 Eggs. Blanch and peel and pound the almonds in a mortar. Seed the raisins,

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ed and cut the citron into shreds and quarter-inch dice, very fine. Grate the rind of the lemon. Beat the butter to a cream. Add the sugar gradually, beating till very light. Then add the yolks of the eggs beaten to a cream. Beat till very light, and mix the sifted flour and baking powder with the almonds, and add them gradually to the mixture, beating vigorously. Add the raisins, dredging with flour, and the citron. Mix well. Add the juice of the lemon, and finally thick froth. Turn into a buttered tin, and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. Use the broom-wisp test before taking out of the oven. Indian Pound Cake Gatcau VIndien.

% Cup of Flour. 1 Cup of Indian Meal % Pound Sugar. 8 Eggs. 1 Grated 1 Teaspoonful of Cinnamon. Stir the butter and sugar to a cream, and add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Beat till very light, and then add the meal and flour, well blended. Beat light. Add the spices and the whites of eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat thoroughly, but lightly, and turn into a buttered tin, and bake in a moderate oven for an hour and a half.

Lady Cake (White) Géteau Blanc @ ba Dame.

1% Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Sugar. The Whites of 4 Eggs. % Cup of Milk. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powjer. 1 Teaspoonful of Peach Extract. Cream the butter, add the eggs, beating the whites to a stiff froth, and mixing well. Add the milk, and gradually add the flour, blending thoroughly, and beating till very light. Add the essence, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour, Lunch Cake Gateau du Gofter.

4 Cups of Sugar. $3 Cups of Flour. % Cup of Milk. 2 Eggs.

1 Teaspoonful of Peach Extract. Beat the sugar and eggs to a cream. and add the milk. Then add gradually the flour, into which has been well sifted the baking powder. Add one tabiespoonful of Peach Extract, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour.

Madame John’s Cake Géteau de Mme Jean.

1 Pound of Sugar. 7 Ounces Butter. The Whites of 16 Eggs, Whipped to a Stiff Froth.

1 Pound Sifted Fiour. Juice of 1 Orange. Cream the sugar and butter together till very ight. Then add the snow, after which stir in gradually the flour and one teaspoonful of baking powder. Flavor with the juice of one orange, or with a tablespoonful of Orange Extract, and bake it from thirty to forty-five minutes in a quick oven. Use the broom wisp test. Marble Cake Géateau Marbre.

The White Part:

% Cup of Butter. % Cup of Milk. 1% Cups of White Pulverized Sugar. % Cups of Flour. The Whites of 4 1 Teaspoonful of Extract of Lemon. gradually add the sugar, beaten thoroughly till very light. Then add the milk, and stir carefully. Add onehalf of the flour, evenly divided. Beat vigorously, and add the Lemon Extract. Mix well, and add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a thick froth, and the remainder of the flour. Then stand this mixture to one side while you make the dark part of the cake. Dark Part:

% Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of Brown % Cup of Milk. 1% Cups of Flour. 2 Ounces of Melted Chocolate. 1 Teaspoonful Vanilla.

1 Teaspoonful of Cloves (if Desired). Beat the butter and the sugar to a cream, till very light, and then add the beaten yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Add the milk, and stir carefully. Then add the flour, and blend and beat till smooth. Dissolve the chocolate in a little of the milk, and add, mixing well, and then add the vanilla essence and the baking powder to the mixture. Add the baking powder now to the first mixture, and mix thoroughly and lightly.

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eee SSIES ne Ena ‘Then grease a piece of brown paper, and line the cake pan, and put in first a spoonful of the white mixture and then one of the dark, and continue alternating thus till all is used. Set in a moderate oven, and bake for three-quarters of an hour. Try the broom straw test, and if it comes out clean and dry the cake is done. If not, bake a quarter of an hour longer. The cake must cool in the pan in which it was baked. When cut you will have a beautifully marbled cake. Chocolate Marble Cake Géteau Marbre au Chocolat. % Cup of Sweet Milk.

2 Teaspoontuls of Baking Powder. % Cake of Grated Chocolate. cream, and then add the milk. Sift the flour and baking powder together, and stir into the cake gradually. Then add the vanilla essence and the whites Divide the cake batter in two, and mix the grated chocolate with onehalf. Then put a dark layer of cake in the pan, then a light, and continue so alternating until all the batter is used. Bake in a moderate oven for three-quarters of an hour. Motley Cake Géteau Mélé.

1 Teaspoonful of Peach Extract. 1 Teaspoonful of Fruit Coloring. cream and then add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Beat until very light. Then add gradually the flour, into which has been well sifted, in the second sifting, the baking powder. Mix thoroughly and beat vigorously. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Now divide the batter into two parts, and put one spoonful of Peach Extract into one, and one spoonful of fruit coloring into the other. Mix well, and drop by spoonfuls into the buttered cake pan, first a spoonful of the white, and then one of the pink, until all the batter is used up. Bake from fortyfive minutes to one hour in a moderate oven.

Molasses Cake Géteau @ la Mélassc.

2 Cups of Louisiana Molasses. 1 Cup of Boiling Milk or Water. 1 Teaspoonful of Baking Powder or oda.

3% Cups of Flour (Sifted). 1 Cup Butter.

1 Tablespoonful of Ground Ginger. % Teaspoonful of Cloves.

Melt the butter. Dissolve the soda in the boiling water, using about one tablespoonful, and add it to the molasses. Then beat the sugar and butter to a cream, until very light, and Add these to the molasses, and then stir in the cream. Beat till smooth, and then add gradually the. flour, beating till very light and smooth. Now add the ginger and cloves, or a teaspoonful of cinnamon, and the froth. Place in a shallow cake pan, buttered, and bake in a moderate oven from thirty to forty-five minutes. A Plain Molasses Cake Gateau @ la Mélasse Simple. 1 Cup of Louisiana Molasses. 3 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Boiling Water. 1 Tablespoonful Ginger.

Dissolve the soda in boiling water, and add to it the molasses. Then add the melted butter, and pour in gradually the boiling water, mixing well. Now add gradually the flour, beating well, and next the ginger. Beat until all is very smooth, and then bake for a half hour in @ moderate oven. “Lost Cake”

Manqué.

The Whites of 3 Fees Beaten to a Froth. 1 Tablespoonful of Butter. 1 Cup of The Grated Rind of 1 Lemon. Beat the sugar and butter and yolks of the eggs to a very light cream, and then add the grated rind of the lemon. Gradually add the flour, which has been several times sifted with the baking powder. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat lightly and quick-

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ly, and place in a buttered cake pan, and bake for thirty minutes in a moderately quick oven.

Nut Cake Gateau aun Note.

3 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Mili, 4 Eggs. 1 Cup of Nut Meats, Cut Fine. 2 ‘Feaspoontula of Baking Powder. % Teaspoonful of Extract of Almond. add the sugar, and beat till very light. Then add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Add the milk, and mix carefully. Then sift the baking powder and flour together, and add the flour, beating till very smooth. Add half the beaten whites, which must be quite stiff. and mix well. Then add the nuts (pecans, mashed almonds, peanuts and Brazilian nuts, mixed, and cut or mashed very fine). Add the remainder of the whites of the eggs, the Almond Extract and the baking powder, and mix well. Pour into two square, flat pans, lined with buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven forty-five minutes. Use the broomstraw test. If the straw comes out clean and dry the cake is done; otherwise bake it a little longer. Keep the heat of the oven steady and moderate.

Orange Cake Gateau d’Orange.

4 Ripe Oranges. 1 Pound Pulverized 14 Ounces of Flour. 10 Eggs. Wash the oranges. Then dry and roll them under your hand on a board till very soft. Grate the peel of the oranges, and then cut up the fruit fine, and squeeze through a strainer till all the juice is extracted. Wash the butter till you extract all the salt, then beat very thoroughly, and next add the orange peel and juice, and beat-till very light. Add the yolks of the ergs, well beaten, and again beat the mixture till light. Then, by degrees, add the flour, adding alternately the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat the whole for half an hour, then bake in a moderate oven for forty-five minutes or an hour, using the broom wisp test. If you ice the cake, add orange juice to the icing. Pearl Cake Géteau @ la Perle.

% Pound of Butter. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Pint of Milk. 4 Regs.

1 Teaspoonful of Soda. 1 Pound of Beat the butter and the sugar to a cream. Beat the eggs, whites and yolks separately, and add the yolka Then beat till very light. Add the soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of boiling water, and then add the milk and beat carefully. Add the flour gradually, and beat vigorously. Then add the spices and essence, and lastly stiff froth. Bake for an hour in a moderate oven.

Premium Cake Gateau Royal.

The Whites of 14 Eggs. 1 Pound of % Pound of Flour. % Pound Butter. The Juice and Grated Rind of 1 Lemon. % a Cup of Water.

cream, and add one-half of the whites Then add the flour gradually, beating thoroughly and well, till very light, mixing in gradually the half-cup of water. Add the lemon juice, and the grated rind of the lemon, and finally add the remainder of the whites and the baking powder, beating till very light. Bake in a moderate oven from forty-five minutes to an hour. Pound Cake Gétcau @ la Livre.

1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Pound of Butter. 1 Pound of Flour. 10 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Lemon or Vanilla Wash the salt from one pound of butter, then take out one heaping tablespoonful of butter from it. Experience in baking pound cakes has taught that a whole pound of butter will make a creasy cake, though many people use a full pound. If once the present method is tried the difference will be apparent in the superior quality of the cake. After washing the butter, beat it with the white pulverized sugar to a thick cream. Have the baking powder and the flour sifted together. Beat the yolks of the eggr

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well, and then add them to the sugar and butter, beating till very light. Then add a part of the flour, and beat light. Add a part of the whites of the eggs and mix thoroughly. Then alternate with the flour and the whites of the eggs until all are used up. Add the essence of lemon or vanilla and continue beating vigorously for a half hour. Put the batter in a cake pan (a Turk’s head), lined with buttered paper, and bake for one hour in a moderate oven. Use the broom straw test. If the cake is not quite done, bake a quarter of an hour longer. Never touch or move a pound cake in the oven till the center is set. Pound Cake—No. 2 Gatcau @ la Livre—No. 2.

10 Eggs. 1 Pound Sifted Flour. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla, Lemon or Rose Water.

Wash the butter and drain, and take out a heaping teaspoonful. Then beat the remainder to a rich cream with the sugar, and add the wellbeaten yolks of the eggs. Beat till very light, ‘and add a part of the flour, into which has been well sifted the baking powder. Then add a part of stiff froth, and continue alternating with the flour and the eggs till all are used up. Then add the grated nutmeg and the essence, and continue beating steadily for a half hour. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour. Use the broom wisp test. If it comes out clean and dry the cake is done; otherwise continue baking for a quarter of an hour longer.

Some, in making pound cake, use sixtcen eggs, leaving out the yolks of four; others use twelve eggs. The above measurements, which are for a four-pound cake, will be found exact, and if the cake is properly made it wilt be delicious.

White Pound Cake Gateau Blanc @ la Livre.

1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Pound of Flour. 1 Pound of Butter. The Whites of 16 Wash the butter. Then beat it and the sugar to a fine cream. Add onequarter of the flour, well sifted with the baking powder. Then add onequarter of the whites of the eggs, which have been well beaten to a stiff froth. Continue alternating the eggs and flour till all are used. Add the flavoring extract, and beat steadily for a half hour. Bake in a moderate oven for one hour.:

Plum Cake, or Old-Fashioned Creole Wedding Cake Gateau de Noce Créole a VAncienne 2% Pounds Flour. 1% Pounds Sifted jugar.

1% Pounds Butter.

1 Pound of Seeded and Chopped Rajisins. 1 Pound Chopped and Dried Cherries. 1 Pound of Currants, Washed, Cleansed and Dried.

12 Eggs. 1 Ounce of Salt.

1% Pounds of Shredded Orange, Lemon and Green Citron Peel, Combined. ¥% Gill of Caramel or Burnt Sugar Coloring.

8 Ounces of Ground Almonds. The Rind of 4 Oranges.

1 Ounce of Ground Cloves.

Cinnamon, Nutmeg and Coriander Seed in Equal Proportions.

Work the butter until it becomes very creamy, using a wooden spoon. Then add the sugar, working to a thick cream, and add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten. Beat till light, and add by degrees the flour, salt and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder, working the batter all the time, as you add, meanwhile, the cup of cold water. Then add the fruit, which has been very slightly dredged with flour, working all well into the batter. Add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a thick froth, and when all are well incorporated, pour the mixture into a baking pan, lined up with double sheets of buttered paper, and place on top thick sheets of. paper when it is set in the oven. Bake in a moderate oven, and keep the heat regular and steady all the time, being careful not to increase or diminish it during the baking. Bake for two hours and a half. This isa very big wedding cake. To make a smaller one, use half the ingredients, and bake half the time. To ice the cake, clear it of the paper when it grows cold. Place it on a baking sheet, and cover the top with a coating of Orgeat Paste (see recipe) one and a half inches thick. Let it dry for an hour and then cover with a coating of Plain Icing (see recipe) about half an inch in thickness. When this becomes hard decorate it

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with a piping around the edges in tasteful designs, mingling artificial buds and blossoms in the decorations. Add a delicate wreath of blush roses. This is the old-fashioned Creole wedding cake.

Raisin Cake Géteau de Raisins Sece.

1% Pounds of Stoned Raisins. 1% Pints of Sugar. 1% Pints of Flour. ™% Pound of Butter. Pints of Milk. 6 \.

Sift the flour and baking powder together. Then beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the yolks of the eggs, and beat till very light. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, and then add alternately the whites and flour to the mixture, beating vigorously till light. Flour the raisins, and shake lightly, till each becomes slightly coated all over, and add to the cake batter, and then begin to stir lightly, stirring just sufficient to mix. Have ready a deep baking pan or two, lined ‘with buttered paper, and bake in a rather quick oven for about forty-five minutes or an hour. Have a thick layer of paper over the cake for the first half hour of baking. Spanish Cake Gateau a@ VEspagnole.

1 Pound of Butter. 1 Pound of Sifted 1 Pound _of Good Brown Sugar. 6 Well-Beaten Eggs.

cream. Add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs, and then alternately the flour, with which the baking powder has been sifted, and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a buttered cake pan for about an hour in a moderate oven.

Spice Cake Gateau d’Epices.

&% of a Pound of Butter. 9 Eggs. % Teaspoonful of Ground Allspice. % Teaspoonful of Ground Mace. 1% Cups of Sour Cream. % Teaspoonful of Salt.

Beat the butter and the sugar to a cream, and then add the well-beaten yolks of the eggs. Beat till very light. Add half the flour gradually, alternating with half the whites of the eggs, which have been well beaten toa thick froth. Then add the spices. Now add gradually the rest of the flour, and then the remainder of the whites of the eggs. Finally add the sour milk, in which has been mixed one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a tablespoonful of boiling water. Stir well, and turn into a buttered Turk's head tin, and bake for one hour in @ moderate oven. Use the broom straw test.

Spiced Molasses Cake Géteau d’Epices a la Mélassc. 1 Cup of Louisiana Molasses. 1 Cup of Sugar. % Cup of Butter. 2 2 Teaspoonfuls of Vinegar. 2 Teaspoonfuls Soda.

% Teaspoonful Each of Cloves, Allspice and Cinnamon (Ground).

1 Grated Nutmeg. 3 Cups of Flour. Warm the molasses and dilute with vinegar. Beat the butter and the sugar to a cream, and then add the eges, whites and yolks, well beaten together. Then add gradually one-half of the flour and the molasses. Add the grated spices and salt. Beat well. Add the soda, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water, and beat well. Bake in a moderate oven from thirty to forty-five minutes. Sponge Cake Gétcau Biscuit de Saroie.

1 Pound of White Pulverized Pound Flour.

Beat the yolks of the eggs very Nght, and then add the sugar, and beat till light. Then add the juice of the lemon, and very gradually onehalf of the flour. Have the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, so that they may be cut with a knife. Add one-half to the cake, and then add the remaining half of the flour. Beat well. Now add the second half of the whites, and beat lightly. Pour into a cake pan, lined at the bottom and around with buttered paper, and bake in a quick oven from forty-five minutes to one hour, using the broom straw test. Cover the cake with a layer of thick brown paper when you first put it in the oven. Keep the heat of the oven steady. The Sponge Cake, next to “Lady Fingers,” which are a species of sponge, is the very lightest of cakes.

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Cream Sponge Cake Biscuit de Savote @ la Créme 2 Cups of Sugar. 1 Cup of Cream. 2 Cups of Flour. 4 Eggs.

1 Teaspoonful of Lemon Essence. sugar to a cream. Add the cream, and gradually add the flour and baking powder, sifted. Add the whites of the eggs, beat slightly, and bake in a quick oven thirty minutes. Quick Sponge Cake Vitement Fait 3 Eggs. 1% Cups of Sugar.

2 Cups of Flour. % Cup of Cola Water. Beat the eggs and sugar to a cream, add the water, and mix well. Then gradually add the flour, alternating with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a thick froth. Bake from thirty to forty-five minutes in a quick oven. White Sponge Cake Gateau Blanc Savote.

1% Cups of Pulverized White Sugar. 1 Cup of Flour. The Whites of 11 Eggs. Beat the whites of the eggs and the sugar to a thick froth. Mix the baking powder and the flour, adding the powder after the fourth sifting. Then add the flour gradually to the eggs, beating lightly and thoroughly. Add the essence, and bake the cake thirty to forty-five minutes in a quick oven, Tutti-Frutti Cake Géteau Tutti-Fruttt.

1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Cup of Butter. 1 Teacup of Milk. 2% Teacups of Flour. 1 Pound of Raisins. 1 Pound of Figs, 1 Pound of Powdered Almonds. Beat to a fine cream one teacupful of sugar and one of butter. Add a teacupful of milk and two and a half teaspoons of flour sifted, with two heaping teaspoons of baking powder; add one pound of raisins, well seeded, and one pound each of shredded figs and pounded almonds. After mixing all these well, add the whites of seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake in a slow oven. When done, make a light syrup, spread it over the top, and garnish with pieces of finelycut preserved citron, oranges, preserved currants and other candies. White Mountain Cake Gateau @ la Montagne Blanche. 1 Pound of Sugar. 1% Pounds Butter. 1 Pound of Flour. The Whites of 10 % Teaspoonful of Almond Extract. Cream the butter, add the sugar, and beat till very, very light. Add the flour alternately with the whites and then the almond essence. Bake in @ moderate oven one hour.

White Cream Cake Géteau a la Creme.

4 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Butter. 1 Cup of Sweet Cream, 3 Cups of Sugar. The Whites of 10 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of White Rose Extract. ner as for White Mountain Cake, only put in the cream just before adding the flour and the whites of the eggs. Twelfth Night, or King’s Cake Gatcau de Roi.

2 Pounds of the Best Flour. 12 Eggs. 1 Cup of Sugar.

1 Pound of the Best Butter. % Ounce of Yeast.

% Ounce of Salt.

Candies to Decorate.

This is a Creole cake associated with the history of the famous New Orleans carnival celebrated in song and story. The “King’s Cake,” or “Gfteau de Roi,” is inseparably connected with the origin of our now worldfamed carnival balls. In fact, they really spring from the old Creole custom of choosing a king and queen on King’s Day, or Twelfth Night. In old New Orleans, after the inauguration of the Spanish domination and the amalgamation of the French settlers and the Spanish into that pecullarly chivalrous and romantic race, the Louisiana Creole, the French prettily adopted many of the customs of their Spanish relatives, and vice versa. Among these was the traditional Spanish celebration of King’s Day, “Le Jour des Rois,” as the Creoles term the day. King’s Day falls on January 6, or the twelfth day after Christmas, and commemorates the visit of the three Wise Men long ago to the lowly Bethlehem manger. This day is still even in our time the Spanish Christmas, when gifts are presented in commemoration of the King’s gifts. With the Creoles it became “Le Petit Noél,"” or Little

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Christmas, and adopting the Spanish custom, there were always grand balls on Twelfth Night; a king and a queen were chosen, and there were constant rounds of festivities, night after night, till the dawn of Ash Wednesday. The interval between January 6, or King’s Day, and Mardi Gras Day thus became the accepted Carnival season. To make the cake put a pound and a half of the very finest quality of flour into a large wooden bread trough. Make a hole in the center of the flour, and put in a half ounce of yeast, dissolved in a little warm water. Add milk or tepid water to make the dough, using milk if you want it to be very rich and delicate. Knead and mix the flour with one hand, while adding the milk or water with the other. Make a dough that is neither too stiff nor too soft, and when perfectly smooth set it aside to rise in a moderately warm place, covering with a cloth. Remember that if you use milk to make the dough it must be scalded, that is must be heated to the boiling point, and then allowed to grow tepid. Let the dough rise for five or six hours, and, when increased to twice its bulk, mix well with it the reserved half pound of flour, into which has been well sifted the salt. Add six eggs, beaten very light with the sugar and butter, and mix all well together, kneading lightly with your hands, and adding more eggs if the dough is a little stiff. Then knead the dough by turning it over on itself three times, and set to rise again for an hour or three-quarters of an hour. Cover with acloth. At the end of this time take it up and work again lightly, and then form into a great ring, leaving, of course, a hole in the center. Pat gently and flatten a little. Have ready a baking pan with a buttered sheet of paper in it, and set the big. open roll in the middle. Cover the pan with a clean, stiff cloth, and set the cake to rise for an hour longer. When well risen, set in an oven a few degrees cooler than that used for baking bread; let bake for an hour and a half; if medium, one hour, and if very small, a half hour. Glaze the Brioche nicely with a beaten egg. spread lightly over the top before placing in the oven. Decorate with dragées, caramels, etc.

CHAPTER XXXVIII Gencral Directions In making layer cakes, always have ready three or four jelly tins, and bake the cake in layers in the separate tins for fifteen minutes. Then set to cool, and make the fillings and place alternately between the layers, a layer of cake always being on top, to admit of icing, if desired. These directions for arranging the filling will hold for almost all layer cakes.

Layer Cake To make the layer cake, use any good Sponge, Pound or White Cake recipes, using three-quarters of the proportions of each to make four good layers, and increasing in proportion. Bake in jelly tins for fifteen minutes, and set to cool before adding the filling.

Almond Cake Géteau d’Amandes.

2 Cups of Sugar. 1 Cup of Milk. 2 Cups of Flour. The Whites of 6 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful Lemon Extract. Proceed to cream the butter and sugar. Add the milk, and gradually add the flour and the whites of the eggs alternately, and beat till light. Add the essence, and bake in jelly tins fifteen minutes. Make a filling as follows:

Take two blanch them, pounds of almonds.

peel and pound to 2a

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flour. Beat the whites of two eggs to a froth with one-half cup of sugar, and spread on top of the bottom layer of cake as a frosting. Place over this a layer of the almonds,:and then another layer of frosting. Add a layer of cake, and then go over the same process again till the top layer of cake is reached. Sprinkle with white sugar or ice neatly, according to taste. Banana Layer Cake Gatcau de Bananes, 9 Eggs. % Pound of Flour.

1% Cups of Pulverized Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon or Vanilla 3 Bananas.

Frepare four layers of Sponge Cake. (See recipe.) Slice the bananas lengthwise very nicely, and lay on the bottom layer. Sprinkle with a little powdered sugar, and then spread over all a little Cream Sauce made just to the consistency of Cream Puff Filling. (See recipe.) Over this put on the second layer of cake; cover nicely with the bananas and the cream sauce, and proceed thus till the top layer is placed over the bananas. Then sprinkle with white sugar, or ice it, as Chocolate Layer Cake Gateau au Chocolat.

A Layer Cake. (See recipe.) 1 Cup of Powdered Sugar.

1 Cup of Milk or Water. 4 Ounces of Make a layer cake. Boil four ounces of chocolate in one cup of milk or water. Add one cup of sugar, and let it boil till thick. " Spread between the layers of cake. Or take four ounces of chocolate, melt with a little boiling water, just sufficient to make a paste, and work till smooth. Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff froth with four tablespoonfuls of fine sugar, and then proceed as in Almond Layer Cake, having a layer of chocolate on top.

Cocoanut Layer Cake Gatceau au Coco.

4 Layers of Cake. (See Layer Cake 1 Cup of Powdered Sugar. 2 Cups of Grated Cocoanut.

White Sugar to Sprinkle.

Make a good layer cake. Beat the whites of two eggs till very frothy. Add one cup of powdered sugar, and beat till very stiff. Grate the cocoanut, and then proceed as in filling the Almond Cake, having a layer of the cocoanut on top, sprinkled with white sugar. (See recipe.). Cream Laycr Cake Géteau @ la Creme.

4 Layers of Sponge Cake. (See recipe.) 1 Cup of Pulverized Sugar. Teaspoonfuls of Cream.

Make a layer sponge cake. Prepare a filling by beating together the yolks of two ‘eggs, one cup of pulverized sugar, two tablespoonfuls of cream, and one teaspoonful of Vanilla. Beat and mix thoroughly to a thick cream, and spread between the layers, with a layer of cake on top.

Fig Layer Cake.

Gateau aue Figues.

4 Layers of Sponge Cake. (See recipe.) 1 Pound of Chopped Fige.

1 Cup of Sugar. % Cup of Water. Make a layer cake—any_ kind, white, sponge or cream. Bake in jelly tins. Boil one pound of chopped figs, one cup of sugar, and one-half cup of water, till the figs form a jelly. Spread, when cool, between the layers of cake, while they are still hot, and proceed as in Almond Layer Cake.

Jelly Layer Cake Gateau a la Gelée.

4 Layers of Cake. See Recipe Layer BI.

1 Cup of Pineapple, Peach, Raspberry or Any Jelly.

Make a layer cake. and spread, while hot, with any kind of jelly, peach, lemon, raspberry, apple, strawberry or the like.

Lemon Layer Cake Géteau au Citron.

The Grated Rind and Juice of 1 Lemon. 4 Layers of Cake. (See recipe.) 1 Cup of Sugar. 1 Egg. 1 Teaspoonful of Water.

1 Teaspoonful of Flour.

Make a nice layer, sponge or cup cake. Prepare a good layer filling of creamed lemon by taking one cup of sugar, one egg, the grated rind and juice of one lemon, one teaspoonful

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of water and one of flour. Blend the sugar, water and flour, and add the well-beaten egg. Add the rind and juice of the lemon. Boil in a bainmarie (a kettle set in a kettle of hot water), and let it thicken. Spread between the layers, and ice, or sprinkle with sugar.

Orange Layer Cake Gateau a VOrange.

4 Layers of Pound or Cup Cake. The Grated Rind and Juice of 1 Orange. Juice of Half a Lemon.

1 Teaspoonful of Orange Extract. Make a good layer, pound or cup cake. Then niake a filling of the whites of two eggs, three cups of sugar, the grated rind and juice of one orange, half a lemon’s juice, two teaspoonfuls of orange extract. Mix all thoroughly, and spread between the layers of the cake.

Pecan Layer Cake G@ateau auz Pacans.

4 Layers of Cup or Sponge Cake. The Whites of 3 Eggs. 1 Cup of Minced Louisiana _ Pecans.

3 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar. 1 Teaspoonful of Lemon Extract.

Make a good Layer Cake or Cup (See Cake, (See recipe). Beat the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth. Add three tablespoonfuls of sugar, and one cup of minced and pounded pecans. Add one teaspoonful of extract of lemon, and fill the cake, leaving a layer of the filling on top. This is a typical Creole cake. Instead of mincing the pecans for the layers, some cooks shell them in halves. This is a matter of taste.

Pimeapple Layer Cake Géteau a VAnanaa.

1% Cups of, Fulverized Sugar. ses.

1 Teaspoonful of Lemon or Pineapple Prepare four layers of sponge cake. Pare the pineapple, being careful to cut out all the eyes and the core. Grate the fruit very fine. Place a layer of the fruit over the bottom layer of the cake, sprinkle with a little powdered sugar and then spread over this a little Cream Sauce, which has been made to the consistency of Cream Puff Filling. (See recipe.) Put a second layer of the cake over this, cover nicely with the grated pineapple, sugar and Cream Filling, and proceed thus till the top layer is placed over the pineapple. Then ice or sprinkle with white sugar. Raisin Cake Gdteau aur Ratsine Seca.

4 Layers of Pound or Cup Cake. (See % Pound of Raisins. % Pound of Citron.

% Teaspoonful Each of Ground Cloves, Cinnamon, Allspice and Nutmeg. Frosting to Cover.

Make a good Pound or Cup Cake. (See recipes.) Bake in tins, taking out enough to fill three tins. Then add to the remaining batter one-half teaspoonful each of ground cloves, allspice, cinnamon and nutmeg, and one-quarter pound each of ratsins, seeded, and citron, chopped very fine. Mix thoroughly, and bake in two layers. Place between the other layers, alternating with a frosting, as in Almond Layer Cake. (See recipe.) Rainbow Cake Géteau 2 VArc-en-Ctel.

6 Layers of Sponge or of Pound Cake. 3 Ounces of Pink Icing.

3 Ounces of Violet Icing.

3 Ounces of Chocolate Icing. 8 Ounces of Vanilla Icing. 3 Ounces of White Icing.

Make a good layer cake, either Pound or Sponge. Prepare the Cream Icings (see recipes under chapter Icings for Cakes). Place these between the alternate layers in the order above given. Ice the cake nicely. This is a very pretty cake. Layer Cake of Fresh Fruits Géteau aur Fruits.

4 Layers of White or Gold Cake. (See 3 Apples. 2-3 of a Cup of Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Orange or mon The Whites of 2 Eggs. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar.

Make a good White Cake or Gold Cake. (See recipes.) Pare and grate three apples, and cook them with twothirds of a cup of sugar. When they come to a thick jelly, take off the stove and flavor with Lemon or Orange Extract. Beat the whites of two eggs, till very light, and add to them four tablespoonfuls of white sugar, and beat till very stiff, so stiff that the whites can stand alone. Spread a layer of this on the top of

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the bottom layer of cake, add a layer of apples, spread another layer of frosting, cover with a layer of cake, and so continue till all is used up. Strawberry layer cake, peach, raspberry, apricot, orange, pineapple and all fresh fruit layer cakes may be made in the same manner. Only in the orange and pineapple do not cook the fruits, but simply grate four or five oranges, or one pineapple, and spread the fillings in layers between the frosting. These cakes, properly made, are most delicious.

CHAPTER XXXIX PAatiescrie Fine The Bouchées, Macarons, Massepains, Méringucs, Mélées Créoles Biscuits auz Amandes ct aur Pistasches, Amandes Souffées, etc.

The native ingenuity of the Creole chefs adapted many of the nuts and fruits of Louisiana to various forms of sweetened batter, and the result of their efforts, handed down from generation to generation, is gtven in the following carefully compiled recipes, which, perhaps, after our unique “Gumbos,” “Courtbouillons,” ‘Bouillabaise,” ‘“‘Ragouts” and “Jambalayas,” will serve better than any other recipes* to give a true idea of the infinite variety of the properly conducted Creole kitchen. They will also give a glimpse, into the interior life of the Creole household, some of them, especially, being associated with pleasant, simple forms of ‘‘soirées,” that have almost passed away. Advice and Instructions for Baking These Cakes Use the best materials. It always pays in the delicate and perfect taste of the cake.

Soda, if not properly dissolved, will give to cakes and biscuits a bad, greenish color.

Keep the cake out of the draft while beating and baking. All the following cakes, as indeed, all cakes, should be baked in their own steam, that is, keep the door of the oven shut till the cakes have finished spreading. Then, if the oven is hot enough, you may lower the fire. This gives the cake a light, bright color. Pour Dessert.

Remember meringues and very large cakes are not specified in these instructions. For meringues the oven must never be very hot.

If you are expert at baking, you may test the heat of the oven simply by touching the handle of the oven door, but a sure test for beginners is to throw a little cornmeal or flour in the center of the oven, count ten, and if the flour begins to smoke before you count the full number the oven is too hot, if it smokes at ten the oven is just hot enough. Never put flavoring extracts directly into the flour, or they will form lumps. Always put them in the wet part of the mixture.

Bouchées These are a delicious form of dessert cakes. Great care must be taken to trim the cakes evenly and equal in size before attempting to finish them. Bouchées are made with batter and also with almost all our Louisiana fruits. As the name indicates a Bouchée is simply “a mouthful.” Iced Bouchées 9 Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. % Pound of Flour.

1 Cup of Currant or Other Jelly for Filling. Transparent Icing to Garnish. Prepare a sponge or cup cake batter. (See recipe under’ chapter “Cakes.”) Have ready a baking sheet, covered well with white writing paper. Lay the batter out on the paper by forcing it through a biscuit cutter in

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rounds that will measure one inch and a half in diameter. They will spread. Dredge the surface with white sugar very lightly, and bake them for about fifteen minutes or less, until they are a light color. Then trim nicely and place them upon a wire drainer. Place circular pieces of currant or other preserves on top, and garnish with a meringue or Transparent Icing. (See recipe.) Set in the stove or the sun to dry, and in ten minutes they will be ready to serve.

Bouchécs With Oranges.

Bouchéca aux Oranges 1 Pound of Pulverized Sugar. The Juice of 1 Orange or 1 Tablespoonful of Extract.

1 Cup of Orange Marmalade. Transparent Icing to Garnish. Prepare the cake drops as directed above, with sponge or cup cake batter. Then place thin slices of oranges cooked in syrup on the Bouchées (see Orange Marmalade), and glaze them over with Transparent Icing. (See recipe.) Flavor the batter of these Bouchées with the rind of an orange. Bouchées With Peaches Bouchées auz Péchee 9 Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. % Pound of Flour.

1 Tablespoon Peach-stone Extract. 1 Cup of Preserved Peaches. Transparent Icing to Garnish. Prepare the drop cakes as directed in “Bouchées de Dames.” Place halves of peaches, preserved in syrup, over them (home-made preserves), and gloss over with Transparent Icing, flavored with Noyau (the peach-stone extract), and slightly tinged with Carmine. (See recipe.) In preparing all these bouchées, do not allow any excess of moisture from the preserves. The syrup must be entirely absorbed by the bouchée before you attempt to glaze it with the icing.

In making bouchées with preserves use any kind of marmalade to stick two bouchées together, and ice the surface.

Bouchées With Pineapples Bouchées aur Ananas.

1 Pound of Pulverized Sugar. 1 Cup of Preserved Pineapples. Transparent Icing to Garnish. Make little drop cakes one inch and a half in diameter. Place smaller slices of thin, preserved pineapple upon each, and glaze or glacé over with Transparent Icing (see recipe). flavoring with pineapple syrup. MACAROONS Macarons 1 Pound of Sweet Almonds.

1 Ounce of Butter.

2 Pounds of Sifted Sugar.

Blanch or scald the almonds by throwing them into a pan of boiling water, and letting them remain on the fire until you can take one of them between your fingers and very easily peel off the skin by pushing it between the finger and thumb. Then drain and cool the almonds in cold water, and drain again. Rub the skins or hulls off with a clean cloth, put the almonds in cold water with a little salt, wash clean, drain and dry them in another cloth. The almonds must be cold before you put them into a mortar. Then pound them to a pulp that will be as smooth as flour. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. Add a little of the sugar and a little of the eggs as you pound, to prevent the almonds from becoming oily. Remember-always that the paste must be kept firm as you add the remainder of the sugar and the eggs. Have ready a baking sheet, on which has been placed a nice buttered piece of wafer paper. Lay the macaroons out on this, by dropping them from the spoon. Be very careful to place the macaroons about an inch apart, so that the balls will not touch one another. When the sheet is full, press a wet paste brush gently over their surface. Put them in the oven, and bake at a very moderate heat till they are a light, delicate brown or fawn color. When done, take out and set to cool, and remove any pieces of wafer paper that may cling to the edges. Keep in a dry place. Chocolate Macaroons Macarons au Chocolat 12 Ounces of Ground Almonds. 1% Pounds of Sifted White Sugar. 4 Ounces of Grated French Chocolate. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Sugar. Mix all the ingredients together in a bowl, until they form a stiff paste. Then lay the macaroons out upon the

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en} wafer sheet in the form of lady fingers. Bake at a very moderate heat till a light brown.

Creole Macaroons Macarone @ la Créole 12 Ounces of Shredded Almonds. 4 Ounces of Ground Almonds. 2 Eggs. 4 Ounces of Wheat Flour. The Peel of 2 Oranges.

Blanch and wash and dry the almonds. Then grind (not pound) four ounces. Shred twelve ounces—that is, after skinning, cut the almonds lengthwise into thin shreds by dividing each almond into at least five or six long shreds, or cut them crosswise, and the shreds will be shorter. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the whites separately, and then beat them together with the sugar, rubbing till very light and smooth. Add the grated peel of two Louisiana oranges that have been rubbed on sugar, and then incorporate all the other ingredients. Roll the paste out into balls about the size of an egg. Place them on buttered wafer paper on a baking sheet, set in a moderate oven, and bake to a light color. Pistachio Macaroons Macarons auz Pistaches 4 Ounces of Bitter Almonds, 6 Ounces of Shredded Pistachio Kernels or Peanuts, 12 Ounces of Sifted Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Sugar. Blanch the almonds and then pound them well. Mix with the whites of the eges till thoroughly pulverized. Then mix with the shredded pistachio kernels or peanuts, and stir well. Fill a biscuit forcer with the preparation, and drop the macaroons in round balls about the size of a hickory nut upon a wafer sheet of paper, and spread upon a baking sheet. Bake in a@ moderate oven till very slightly colored.

Spanish Macaroons Macarone 4 Espagnol.

1 Pound of Sugar. Yolks of 12 Eggs. Grated Rind of 2 Oranges.

Boil the sugar almost to a syrup, and then add the pounded almonds, and let them simmer gently for five minutes, add the flavoring and let them simmer five minutes longer over a slow fire. Stir all very carefully and often, and at the end of ten minutes add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very ight. Then stir the paste steadily over a quickened fire until it becomes firm and compact. Remove from the fire, and when it is cool roll it in your hands, which should be slightly greased with oil of sweet almonds. Lay it all out in small cakes on wafer paper, spr:ad on a baking sheet, and bake very rapidly.

Croquignoles Oracknele.

4 Ounces of Bitter Almonds. 1% Pounds of Fine Sugar.

Scald, skin and wash and dry the almonds, as directed in ‘“‘Macaroons,” and then pound them into a pulp, adding the whites of the eggs gradually, remembering always that they must be beaten to a stiff froth. Then work in the sugar, and you will have a firm paste. Drop these in small balls upon wafer paper, spread upon a baking sheet of tin or iron, in distinct and separate rows. Pass a little brush, moistened with water, lightly on their surface, and bake in a very slack oven till a very light color. Iced Macaroons Petite Foure.

1 Pound of Sweet Almonds.

1 Ounce of Butter.

2 Pounds of Sifted Flour.

Royal Icing to Garnish.

Prepare the paste as above directed, keeping it somewhat stiffer and firmer, however. Add two whites of eggs of Royal Icing (see recipe), and work both together till thoroughly incorporated. Fill the biscuit forcer, and push the macaroons through upon buttered wafer paper, as directed. Petits Fours must be baked in a very moderate oven. Otherwise the excessive heat will cause the macaroons to run into one another and produce a useless mass. The Royal Icing always needs the moderated oven. The Petits Fours are then put in pretty plaited paper cases. MARCHPANE (Plain) Massepains (Simples) 1 Ounce of Bitter Almonds. 1% Pounds of Sifted Sugar. Scald, skin, wash and dry the almonds. Then pound them to a flour

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* twist them into fancy shapes, in a mortar with the whites of the eggs. When well pulverized, beat well. Mix in the sugar by pounding it, and then take up the paste and put it in a bowl. Beat well, keeping it very firm. If soft, add sugar, to render firmer. Strew the wafer sheet, spread on a baking sheet, with white pulverized sugar. Cut the massepains into lengths of two or three inches, and diamonds, hearts, rings, triangles, etc., on the wafer sheet. Then set in the oven, and bake to a very light color. Marchpane Souffié Massepains Souffés.

1 Ounce of Bitter Almonds. 1% Pounds of Sifted Sugar. 1 Ounce of Vanilla Sugar.

The Whites of 3 Esgs.

1 White of Egg Royal Icing. Prepare the paste exactly as above, and when you take it up in the bowl add the Royal Icing, keeping the paste firm. Spread the massepains upon wafer sheets, using only the ring shape, and bake in a slack oven till a@ very light brown.

Strawberry Marchpane Massepains @ ta Fratee 1 Pound of Sweet Almonds.

6 Ounces of Crushed Strawberries. Pound the almonds, and then proceed as in plain Massepains, adding the strawberries after they have been strained through a sieve.

Any kind of fruits or marmalades may be used in this manner for Fruit Marchpane.

Air Balls Souffés.

2 Pounds of Powdered White Sugar. 1 Ounce of Orange Flower Water. To two pounds of powdered sugar add the whites of two eggs and one ounce of Orange Flower Water. Make of all a firm consistent paste, adding more sugar, if necessary. Roll out on a sheet of paper, sprinkled with sugar, and cut into little pieces, which you will form into balls about the size of 2 nut. Place them on a wafer sheet on a baking sheet about two inches apart so that they will not touch one another, should they run. Bake in a moderate oven.

Almonds Souffiés Soufiés auw Amandes.

1 Pound of Sweet Aimonds.

The White of 1 Egg.

Blanch, skin, wash and dry one pound of sweet almonds, and then cut them into very small pieces. Add the white of one egg, beaten to a thick froth and twelve ounces of powdered sugar. When well mixed drop upon sheets of white paper, and bake to a very light color in a moderate oven. Pistachio Souffiés Boufiés aur Pistaches 10 Ounces of Pistachio Kernels or Pea1% Pounds of Fine Sugar.

4 Drops Essence o ses.

2 Whites of Eggs of Royal Icing. (See Recipe Royal Icing.) If you cannot procure the Pistachio Kernels use Peanuts, which are called “Pistaches” by the Creoles. Scald, skin, wash and dry the pistachios or peanuts. Pound them with two ounces of sugar, adding occasionally some of the whites of the eggs, until reduced to a pulp. Then add all the sugar, gradually working it into the paste on a marble slab, being careful to have the slab and the hands very clean. Roll out paste with sugar to the thickness of a quarter of an inch on the slab. Spread the icing evenly over, and cut into various fanciful shapes, Place the cakes on the sheet wafer or lay on baking sheet, and bake in a slow heat to a very light color.

Rose Souffiés Soufiés 2 ta Rose.

2 Pounds Powdered White Sugar. 1 Ounce of Orange Flower Water. A Pinch of Carmine Powder. To two pounds of powdered sugar add the whites of two eggs and one ounce of Orange Flower Water and a little pinch of Carmine Powder. Make into a firm, consistent paste, adding more sugar, if necessary. Roll out on a sheet of paper, sprinkle with sugar, then cut the paste into little pieces, which must be made into balls about the size of a nut. Place them on a wafer sheet or a baking sheet all two full inches apart, so that they will not touch one another should they run. Bake in a moderate oven.

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a] Almond and Peanut Biscuit Biscuits auw Amandes et aur Pistaches 4 Ounces of Pistachio Kernels or Peanuts.

4 Eggs. 8 Ounces of Powdered Sugar. Blanch, peel and pound the almonds and pistachio kernels or peanuts in a mortar till finely pulverized, adding the white of an egg to keep the almonda from turning oily. Beat the whites of the eggs to a frath, and then add the yolks, beaten separately to a cream with the sugar. Beat well and incorporate thoroughly. Add four tablespoonfuls of flour, sifted well, and mix well. Place in small cakes on wafer sheets of paper, and bake in a moderate oven till a very light color.

Chocolate Biscuit Biscuits au Chocolat 1 Ounce of Powdered French Chocolate. 10 Ounces of Pulverized Sugar. sugar to a cream. Add the chocolate, and mix well. Then add the flour, alternating with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add one tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract, and bake upon wafer sheets in small cakes to a light color.

Cinnamon Biscuits Biscuits @ la Canelle 6 Fresh Eges.

1 Ounce of Powdered French 10 Ounces of Pulverized Sugar. Ground Cinnamon.

1 Teaspoonful of Cinnamon Extract. cinnamon to a cream. Add the chocolate, and mix well. Then add the flour, alternating with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add one tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract, and bake upon wafer sheets in small cakes to a light color.

Lemon Biscuits Biscuite au Citron The Rind of 1 Lemon.

Beat the eggs and the sugar to a cream, add the flour gradually, and the juice of the lemon and citron peel, and beat well. Bake on paper sheets in the form of small wafers, very thinly spread, in a moderate oven to a light color.

Creole Biscuits Biscuits @ la Oréole 4 Ounces of Grated Lemon.

4 Ounces of Orange Flower Marmalade. 4 Ounces of Apricot or Peach Marmalade.

Mix the fruits and lemon thoroughly together, and then add three ounces of white pulverized sugar and stiff froth. Place the mixture in small cakes on white paper, and bake lightly. Then cover with sugar beaten with the white of an egg, in meringue form, and bake to a light brown. Filbert Biscuits Biecutts aux Avelincs 4 Ounces of Filberts.

Blanch, peel and pound the almond and filbert kernels in a mortar till finely pulverized, adding the white of an egg, to keep the almonds from turning oily. Beat the whites of three eggs to a froth, and then add the yolks, beaten separately to a cream with the sugar, incorporate thoroughly, and beat well. Add four tablespoonfuls of flour, sifted well, and mix well. Place in small cakes on wafer sheets of paper, and bake in a@ moderate oven till a very light color. Lemon Biscuits Biscuite au Citron.

6 Fresh Eggs. The Rind of 1 Lemon. The Juice of 1 Lemon or 1 Tablespoonful of Lemon Extract.

Beat the eggs and the sugar to a cream, add the flour gradually, and the juice and rind of a lemon, and beat well. Bake on paper sheets in the form of small wafers, very thinly spread, in a moderate oven, to a light color.

Orange Biscuits Biscuite a VOrange The Peel of 1 Orange.

The Juice of 1 Orange.

Beat the eggs and sugar to a cream, add the flour gradually, and the juice

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SS and peel of the orange, and beat well. Bake on p.per sheets, in the form of small wafers, very thinly spread, in a moderate oven, to a light color. Vanilla Biscuits Biscuits 2 la Vanille 6 Fresh Eges.

1 Ounce of Vanilla Sugar.

10 Ounces,of Pulverized Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla xtract. sugar to a cream. Add the chocolate, mix well, Then add the fiour, alternating with the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add one tablespoonful of Vanilla Extract, and bake upon wafer.sheets in small cakes to a light color.

Anisecd Biscuits Croquantes Frascati 2 Ounces of Ground Almonds. 2 Whole Eggs and 3 Yolks.

1 Ounce Aniseed.

Break the eggs into a bowl, beat them well, then add the sugar and beat all lightly; add the almonds, pounded to a powder, and the aniseed. Beat all together till well incorporated. Add the flour and beat thoroughly. Have a marble slab clean and dry. Roll the paste out on the slab in the form of a long, thick rope. Then take a knife and cut it into pieces about the size of a small egg. Roll each between the palms of your hands, and shape them into oval balls. Have a buttered sheet of paper on a baking sheet. Make a slight incision into each cake by pressing the back of the knife across the surface. Brush the egg over them, and sprinkle lightly with granulated sugar, and bake in a moderate heat to a light color. Creole Wafers Gaufrea a la Oréole 4 Ounces of Sifted Sugar. 8 Eggs. 1 Pint Whipped Cream.

1 Tablespoon. ‘ul of Vanilla. A Pinch of Salt.

1 Tablespoon Peachstone Extract. Beat the sugar and yolks of the eggs to a cream, Add the salt, vanilla, the peach flavoring, and flour, and beat till light. Then add the whites of the eggs and the cream. Mix all lightly together, taking great care that all are well mixed. Bake very, very light in wafer irons. The irons should be heated over a rather hot fire, and then greased well with a little clarified butter. A large spoonful of batter should be poured into the undersheet of the wafer irons, then closed up, and baked to a brown color. Sprinkle lightly with sugar. These wafers are delicious, handed around with ices.

Ginger Wafers Gaufres au Gingcembre 1 Large Spoon of Ground Ginger. 4 Ounces of Molasses.

8 Ounces of Sifted Sugar.

1% Cups of Cream.

1 Tadlespoonful of Vanilla Sugar. cream and add it to the flour and milk, salt and sugar, molasses and ginger. Work all well together very light in a bowl until you have a smooth batter. Add the Ginger Extract and beat vigorously. Have ready the wafer irons over a very steady fire. Brush the irons with butter and place the wafers inside and bake on both sides to a light fawn color.

French Wafers Gaufres Francaiscs 8 Ounces of Sifted Sugar.

1% Cups of Cream.

1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Sugar. cream and add to the flour, milk, salt and sugar. Work all together very light in a bowl, until you have a very smooth batter, Have ready the wafer irons and a slow, steady fire. Brush the irons with butter and place the wafers inside and bake on both sides to a Nght brown color. If desired. the wafers may be rolled into fancy shapes.

Spanish Wafers _ Gaufres Eepagnoles 2 Ounces of Sifted Sugar.

% Pint of Chocolate Water. 12 Drops of Essence of Vanilla. 2 Eggs. 2 Gills of Cream.

Prepare the chocolate water by dissolving well two ounces of French chocolate in a half pint of boiling water. Place the sugar, vanilla, eggs

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and cream in a pan, work all vigorously into a smooth, light batter, add the cold Chocolate Water, beat all together well for ten minutes longer. Then bake the wafers, as directed in recipe for French Wafers, and curl in the form of cornucopias while still warm and easily manipulated. ~." Cream Puffs Choue @ la Créme 4 Eggs. 1 Cup of Water.

Set the water to boil, and while boiling, stir in the butter. Then add the flour, and stir continually till the paste leaves the sides of the saucepan. Set the mixture to cool. When cool, stir in well one after another, three eggs, without beating them. After adding the last egg, beat very vigorously. for about four minutes; then drop by tablespoonfuls on buttered tins, and set in the oven to bake from twenty to thirty minutes. Watch carefully so that they will not burn. When cold make an opening inside, through the side of the paste, with a sharp knife, and fill it with the following custard:

1 Tablespoonful of Sugar.

8 Eggs. 1 Tablespoon of Vanilla. 1 Tablespoonful of Cornstarch. Rub the cornstarch in a little water and add it to the boiling milk. Let {t boil three minutes, stirring constantly. Beat the eggs, without separating, and the sugar till light, and add to the boiling milk. Add the vanilla, stirring all well. Fill the cakes and set away to cool. Chocolate Eclairs. Beclairs du Chocolat 1 Cup of Flour. 1 Cup of Sugar. of Water.

4 Eggs. % Cu 2 Ounces of Chocolate.

Make a Cream Puff Paste as above. Put into a tube or a pastry bag and press out upon well-buttered tins in the shape of Lady Fingers. This will give the Eclairs the right shape, making them about five inches long. Set them to bake in a quick oven twenty or thirty minutes. If the oven is of the right temperature, and the cakes are properly baked, they will be hollow within and very daintily crusted without. Fill in with a mixture made by melting two ounces of chocolate and four ounces of powdered sugar, and set away to cool. You may ice by dipping one end into the icing, and then setting away to dry. The Sclairs may be filled with preserved fruits, Orange Icing, Whipped Cream, or any Marmalade.

Pineapple Eclairs Eclairs 2 VAnanas 1 Cup of Flour. 1 Cup of Sugar. 4 Eggs. % Cup of Water.

2 Ounces of Preserved Pineapple or Pineapple Mousse.

Pineapple Eclairs are made in the same manner as Chocolate Eclairs (see recipe), only they are filled in with preserved pineapple or Pineapple Mousse.

Cup Cakes Petite Gateauz 4 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Sour Cream. 1 Tablespoonful of Rose or Vanilla cream, add the well beaten yolks of the eggs, and then add the cream. Mix thoroughly, and sift in gradually the flour, beating thoroughly. Add stiff froth, and the rose water. Now dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in a little sweet milk and add, being careful that there are no lumps in the soda. Beat well for a few minutes and bake at once, in small tins or cups, which you must grease well with butter and only half fill with the cake batter.

Jelly Cakes Gateaue aua Confttures 1 Cup of Sour Cream.

3 Ounces of Currant, Grape or any Jelly Prepare the batter exactly as for Cup Cake or Sponge Cake, butter the small tins and pour in the batter in such thin layers as to allow the cakes to be just a half inch thick when baked. Let them bake for a few minutes to a light brown, and as thev are taken from the oven set them on the table and spread a layer of Currant or Grape Jelly between; then

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add alternate layers of cake and Jelly, reserving the prettiest cakes for the top layers. Do not put jelly on these. Ice or powder with sifted sugar. Queen Cakes Gateaur a la Reine.

1 Pound of Currants. 1 Pound of Butter. 1 Teacupful of Cream. 8 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful of Rose Water. Beat the sugar and butter to a cream, and then add the well beaten yolks of the eggs. Now add the cream, and then one-half of the flour, and next one-half of the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add the remainder of the flour, in which there have been dredged the currants that have been well washed, cleansed and picked and dried. Mix thoroughly, and add the remainder of the whites and the rose water. Beat as you would a pound cake. Then pour into small, buttered tins and bake immediately to a light brown.

Tea Cakes Gateaur de Thé % Cup of Sour Milk.

cream. Add the well beaten eggs, and incorporate thoroughly. Add the milk, and then gradually add the flour, making a light soft dough. Mix all well together, and roll the paste out. very thin. Cut into rounds or squares, and put into a slightly buttered baking pan. Bake to a bright yellow, and serve as needed. Some brush the tops of the cakes with beaten eggs, and sprinkle all over with raisins or currants, well seeded and washed and dried.

Cocoanut Fingers.

Biscuits @ la Cuillére au Coco. 3 Eggs. 2 Ounces of Flour. 4 Ounces of Grated Cocoanut. Beat the butter, sugar and eggs together for five minutes, blending thoroughly. Then add the flour, and immediately after the grated cocoanut. Beat well, and have ready buttered tins. Divide the mixture into fingers of about four or five inches in length, bake in a moderately quick oven for thirty minutes, and when cool dust with powdered sugar.

Lady Fingers Biscuits a la Cuitlére.

4 Ounces of Powdered White Sugar. Put the sugar and the yolks of the eggs into a bowl and beat thoroughly till very light. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and add the flour. Mix well and add immediately the whites of the eggs. Beat all together gently for a few minutes, and the batter ready for baking.

Have ready a long sheet of paper, spread on a baking tin. With a tablespoon drop all the batter along the paper, in lengths of four or five inches, being careful to leave a space of fully an inch between the cakes; set to bake in a very moderate oven. The cakes must not spread or rise. If they rise, the oven is too hot, and if they spread, you may be sure the oven is too cool. Bake to a very light brown, for twenty minutes, in a moderate oven.

Ginger Nuts Petits Gatcauz au Gingembre 2 Pounds of Flour. 2 Eggs. 1 Pint of Molasses.

% Pound of Brown Sugar.

% Pound of Butter. A Pinch of Salt. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Ginger. % Pint of Milk or Water.

Beat the sugar and butter to a cream; work in the flour and mix well; add the molasses and mix well. Then add the milk, with which has been well dissolved the teaspoon of soda and beat well; add the ginger and continue working lightly till thoroughly mixed. Then roll out and cut in various fanciful shapes and bake to a light brown.

Ginger Snaps Gateaur Secs au Gingembre 2 Cups of Molasses.

1 Cup of Lard or Butter.

% Cup of Sour Cream.

1 Tablespoonful of Ground Ginger. 2 Eges. 2%, Teaspoonfuls, of Soda, lour Sufficient to Roll Thick. Mix all the ingredients as above. only making the batter slightly stiffer, cut it into fancy shapes and bake in a quick oven.

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Jumbies Mélée-Créole.

&% Pound of Flour. 4 Eggs. Tablespoonful of Rose Water. cream. Add the eggs, thoroughly beaten, and then add the Rose Water and the nutmeg. Gradually add the flour, and beat well. Beat till very light before adding the flour. Dust a paper on a baking sheet with sugar, instead of flour, and roll out the paste to about one-eighth of an inch in thickness, Then use a small cutter with a round center, and take the centers out, thus forming pretty rings. Bake in a moderate oven till a light brown. Take them out and sift powdered sugar over them.

Madeleines 5 Eggs. Pound of Powdered Sugar. ‘ound of Sifted Flour.

% Pound of Butter, Washed and Drained.

rated Rind of a Lemon.

cream and add the yolks ‘of the eggs, the lemon rind and the vanilla, and beat till very, very light. Then add the flour, beating constantly, and the froth. Turn into buttered tins, and bake in a quick oven till a delicate brown. Serve cold.

Pop-Overs Vitement Fait 1 Pint of Flour. 3 Eggs.

Beat the yolks of the eggs separately till very light and frothy. Stir in the unskimmed milk and the flour that has been twice sifted with the baking powder. Add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth; pour the mixture into buttered cake tins; bake in a quick oven till a light brown, and serve either hot or cold. Anise Drops Gateau @’Anis 3 Cups of Sugar. 6 Eggs.

% Teaspoonful of Essence of Anise. Beat the sugar and eggs for about half an hour. Add the flour gradually, and the essence. Beat well. Have ready buttered sheets of tin, and drop the mixture from the spoon, and bake to a delicate brown.

Spice Drops Biscuits d'Epices.

The Yolks of 3 Epes.

‘a Cup of Sweet Milk.

3 Cups of Flour. 1 Cup of Molasses. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Baking Powder. 1 Ground Nutmeg.

cream. Add the molasses and the milk. Blend well, add the spices and the nutmeg and lemon extract, and then add the flour, sifted with the baking powder. Beat well for fifteen minutes, and then drop on tins lined with buttered paper. Bake in a quick oven to a delicate brown.

Creole Cookies Biscuits a la Créole 1 Teaspoonful each of Ground Cloves. and Cinnamon.

2 Cups of Powdered Sugar.

1 Cup of Sweet Milk.

The hites of 4 Eggs.

Flour Sufficient to Make a Soft Batter. cream; add the milk and the baking powder, and gradually add the whites Beat the batter hard for ten minutes, after adding sufficient flour to make a nice soft batter. Pour into baking tins, and bake to a delicate brown. When cold ice with Plain Icing. (See Lemon Cookies Biscutts au Citron.

6 Eggs. 1 Cup of Butter.

Beat the yolks of the eggs and butter to a cream. Add the sugar, and beat well. Add the extract of lemon, and then the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add sufficient flour to make a nice dough, just stiff enough to mold, and then roll thin, and bake in a quick oven to a very light brown. Molasses Cookies Biscuits @ la Mélasse.

2 Cups of Molasses..

2 Eggs. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Soda. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Ginger.

% Teaspoonfu! of Cloves.

Melt the molasses. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, and add, mix-

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ing in the soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of boilng water. Add the ginger and the ground cloves. Take off the fire, and beat till cool. Then add the eggs, beaten well, and flour sufficient to make a nice, stiff dough, just stiff enough to roll. Cut into small cakes, and bake in a quick oven to a delicate brown.

MERINGUES In order to make meringues properly one should have a meringue board of well seasoned hard wood about one and a half inches thick, cut with rounded corners, just big enough to fit the oven. While baking, Meringues must always remain soft underneath. To accomplish this, dampen the board thoroughly with water before placing the bands of paper upon it so that the Meringues may not cook too fast.

Creole Meringues Méringues 8 la Créole.

1 Pint of Sifted White Sugar. Beat the whites to a stiff, snowy froth, and then gradually add the sugar and vanilla, beating until the mixture is stiff enough to cut with a knife. Then cut some stout sheets of foolscap paper into strips measuring at least two inches in width, or, if you wish to make the meringues larger, simply place the sheet of paper, slightly buttered, on the table. Pick up a tablespoonful of the meringue mixture as nearly as possible in the shape of an_ egg, working it towards the side of the bowl to give it this shape, and then drop slopingly from the spoon upon the strips of paper, always keeping the little heaps at least an inch apart. When all the rows are filled, sprinkle sifted sugar over them, and let them remain in this state for about three minutes. Then take hold of the strips at either end,. and shake lightly, to remove all excess of sugar. Place the strips ig rows about one inch apart on the wet board or baking tin (the board is much better), and as soon as the sugar begins to dissolve slightly on their surface, push them into the oven, which must be at a very moderate heat, and bake them a very light fawn color. Watch constantly. that they may not burn. When the meringues are done, remove each one very carefully and separately from the paper. Then use a small dessert spoon, if you desire to fill the meringues, scoop out the soft white part, and, with the outer side of the bowl of the spoon, smooth the interior of the meringues. Then place them with the rounded side downward on the baking tin in the oven to dry for a few minutes. When thoroughly crisp, without browning, place them between sheets of paper in a dry place. When using meringues for desserts, etc., garnish the interior with whipped cream, beaten to a stiff froth, flavored with vanilla, orange, lemon, or orange flower water; stick the two halves together lightly and serve. Meringues may be kept for some time in their dry shell state, and filled when ready to use. In making them for immediate family use, simply drop the mixture by spoonfuls on buttered paper, dust with the sugar, wait for three minutes, fan or blow off all excess of sugar, and then place them Mm a very moderate oven and bake to a light brown. When dry and cool, carefully remove the meringues from the paper. brush the bottoms slightly with the white of an egg, beaten to a froth, stick two meringues together, put away to dry, and serve when needed. Cream-Iced Meringues Meringues @ la Créme Glacée. 1 Pound of Sifted White Sugar. Essence.

3 Ounces of Stiff Whipped Cream. % Cup of Transparent Icing. Cream-Iced Meringues should be made much smaller than the ordinary Meringues—about the size of a bird's egg. Proceed as above, and fill with stiff, whipped cream, taking great care when filling that none of the cream oozes out from between the two halves of the Meringues after they have been stuck together. If it should, wipe it off very carefully. When well filled, hold each Meringue separately on a silver fork, and ‘dip them all over in “Transparent Icing” (see recipe), and let them dry. These Meringues are delicious desserts.

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Cream-Iced Meringues With Preserves Meringues Glacées aug Confitures. 1 Pound of Sifted White Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla Essence. 3 Ounces of Currant, Orange or Any % Cup of Transparent Icing. Prepare as in Meringues & la Créole, or as above, only spread some preserves thinly inside the Meringues before garnishing them with the cream, and then ice with Transparent Icing. (See recipe Transparent Icing.) Biscuits With Preserves Biecuite Glacés aun Oonfttures. 9 Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized 1 Cup of Jam of Any Kind Desired. Make a strong cake or cup cake (see recipes), and bake on a baking sheet about three-quarters of an inch in thickness. When cold, cut up into fanciful shapes, trim the edges neatly with a very sharp knife, being careful to brush off any last particle of crumbs that may adhere; carefully spread the upper part and sides of the biscuit with apricot, peach, raspberry or any jam. Then hold one at a time on a silver fork, very carefully, and with a spoon pour Transparent Chocolate Icing, around the sides and over the surface of the biscuit. Then carefully lay it upon a wire tray, resting upon a baking sheet. Dry the biscuits in a very moderate oven for about five minutes. Marbled Glacées Biscuits Panachés auz Confttures. 9 Eggs. 1 Pound of White Pulverized Sugar. % Pound of Flour.

he Juice of 1 Lemon.

1 Cup of Mixed Preserved Fruits. Prepare the cakes as directed in the preceding recipe. Then place them on the baking sheet. Drop different-sized bits of fine preserves, orange, apricot, damson, red currant, etc., on the biscuits, spreading smoothly, so as to form a beautifully marbled pattern. Then cut out the cakes in any fanciful design. Proceed as above to cover with Transparent Icing, and dry in a moderate oven for five minutes. ’ CHAPTER XL ICINGS CAKES Glacés pour Gateauc.

Read carefully the directions given for icing cakes in the beginning of the chapter on “Cakes.” (See recipe.) Then proceed to make icings according to taste, as follows:

Plain Icing Glacé, 1 Tablespoonful of Lemon Juice. Essence of Rose, Orange or Lemon. Beat the whites of the eggs, and sift in gradually the sugar, beating all the while, using good judgment as to sufficient quantity, and adding in the beginning a tablespoonful of Rose ‘or Lemon Essence or Orange Flower Water. Beat very light, till almost stiff enough to stand alone. Put in another bowl a little lemon juice, and begin to lay on the icing in a thin coat with a knife, occasionally dipping the knife into the lemon juice, to make a nice, smooth icing. When the cake is covered over with this coat, set it in the oven or in the sun to harden, and it will be ready for the next coat. which be similarly put on. This coat will be much smoother and whiter than the first. If you wish to make ornamental icing it will be necessary to have piping tubes. (See General Directions for Icing.) Almond Icing Glacé auw Amandes.

of Sugar. 1. Pound of Almonds, Blanched and Pounded to a Paste. The Whites of 3 Eggs. Beat the eggs, stir in the almonds and sugar, and then proceed to ice according to gengral directions. (See above or recipe.) 3 Cups

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Chocolate Icing Glacé au Chocolat.

2 Ounces of Chocolate.

1 Teaspoonful of Vanilla Extratt. Melt two ounces of chocolate in a little boiling water. Add two cups sugar and stir till smooth. Stir in the well-beaten whites of three eggs and one teaspoonful of Vanilla Extract, and proceed as in Plain Icing. (See Orange or Lemon Icing Glacé & VOrange ow au Citron, The Juice of 1 Lemon or Orange. For Lemon and Orange Icings make a Plain Icing, stirring in at the start the juice of one lemon or one orange, and proceeding as in Plain Icing. (See Orange Transparent Icing Glacé Transparente @ lV Orange. % Pound of Fine White Sugar. Half the White of 1 Egg.

The Peel of 1 Orange.

1 Tablespoonful of Orange Essence or Orange Juice.

An Orange Transparent Icing is made by flavoring a plain icing with a little sugar, rubbed well against the rind of the orange.

Colored Transparent Icing Glacé Transparente & la Rose, d la Violette, Etc.

% Pound of Fine White Sugar. Half the White of 1 Egg.

Flavoring and Coloring According to A Green Icing is made by using Extract of Spinach and flavoring with Cedrati; a Rose Pink by flavoring with the Essential Oil of Roses and adding a few drops of Cochineal; and a Violet Icing by flavoring with Syrup of Violet. Proceed as in Plain Icing. Water Icing Glacé @ VEau.

A Pinch of Cream of Tartar. Tablespoonful of Vanilla, Peach or Strawberry Extract.

Take two cups of sugar and a small pinch of Cream of Tartar. Stir with just enough water to make a thick paste, and Flavor with Peach or Strawberry Extract. If Strawberry is used, add a teaspoonful of Cochineal. Beat well, and, if not stiff enough. add more sugar, and proceed as in Plain Icing.

FROSTING Glacé Neigeuse.

2 Cups of Pulverized Sugar. 4 Cup of Cornstarch.

4 Tablespoonfuls of Milk.

Take the whites of two eggs, two cups of pulverized sugar, and onehalf a cup of cornstarch. Blend the cornstarch with a little milk, to make a thick paste, add the whites of the eggs, beaten light, and the pulverized sugar. Beat all to a stiff froth, and frost the cake while hot.

Cream Frosting Glacé Neigeuse 3 la Créme. 2 Cups of Pulverized Sugar. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Rich Cream. For a Cream Frosting, proceed exactly as above, only omit the cornstarch, and add an equal measure of rich cream, and flavor with Vanilla Extract. Boil the cream beford using. Orgeat Paste or Icing Orgeate.

1 Pound of Peeled Almonds. To one pound of skinned almonds add one pound of sugar. Pound as directed to a pulp in a mortar, occasionally adding a few drops of water to prevent the almonds from running to ofl, Use Orange Flower Water. Add fine white sifted sugar till you have sufficient to make a paste, and work till well-amalgamated and elastic. It will now be ready for any use designated in this book.

Royal Icing Glacé Royale.

1 Pound of Fine White Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Lemon Juice. 1 Tablespoonful of Any Kind of Essence A Royal Icing is made of the finest kind of white loaf sugar, sifted and mixed or worked into a paste with the whites of the eggs and lemon juice in the proportions given for the Plain Icing, only the paste must be softer. Flavor with any kind of essence, according to taste. This icing is used to produce fanciful effects. It is not necessary to purchase ornamental piping tubes. With a little taste and dexterity a piece of white writing paper, made into the shape

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of a cornet, may be utilized. Dry the paper, stick it together and rub well with the white of an egg, to make it stiff. Allow at the pointed end only a half inch opening, and with a little practice, the prettiest effects may be produced by any amateur.

Transparent Icing Glacé Transparente.

Pound of Fine White Sugar. ‘alf of the White of 1 Egg. The Juice of Half a Lemon. Take a half pound of the finest white clarified sugar, and clarify again by boiling it with half of the white of an egg, beaten to a stiff froth. Clear off the skum as it rises, and continue skimming till the sugar is perfectly clear. Then add to it half a gill of clarified sugar, boiled to a syrup, and to which there has been added the juice of half a lemon. Whip it to the proper consistency. Then stir the sugar well together, rubbing up and against the sides of the pan till it acquires an opaline appearance. Then with a silver fork, lift up each of the cakes to be iced, and dip in the sugar; or else hold them on a fork and with a spoon pour the icing over. Take another fork, lift off the cake and place it on the baking sheet, and so on till all the small cakes are iced. Then dry in the sun or in the oven for about ten minutes.

: CHAPTER XLI Des Crémes @ la Glace, Biscuits Glacécs, Sorbcts. In making ice creams, always use the best, fresh, sweet, rich milk or cream. Sweeten it with finely powdered sugar, and flavor with the best quality of extracts, such as lemon, vanilla ete.. These are the simplest means of flavoring. Sometimes, however, the Creoles boil the Vanilla Bean until the aroma is extracted, and when cool add it to the sweetened cream. Keep the cream in the refrigerator till ready to freeze. How to Make Ice Cream Some persons boil the milk and eggs, thus making a custard ice cream. This is the cream that the Creoles prefer. But there are others who leave the cream unboiled. In either case it is absolutely necessary to have rich, fresh cream.

Ice Cream Créme 4 la Glace, 1 Quart of Milk or Cream.

1 Tablespoonful of Any Extract. Put the milk or cream on to boil. If cream is used, six eggs will be sufficient; if milk, use eight. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar very light, and then beat the whites to a stiff froth. Pour the boiling milk over the sugar and the yolks, stirring it all the while. Then add the whites, mixing thoroughly, and two _ tablespoonfuls of extract of either Lemon or Vanilla. Set to cool, and then turn into the freezer, pack and stir around in the ice for about ten minutes, and finish as in recipe for making and freezing cream. (See recipe.) How to Freeze the Cream Before putting the mixture into the freezer, see that the dasher is right side up and that everything is in good condition and well adjusted. Have the ice pounded, and a sufficient quantity of rock salt. Then put in the can and fill around it with alternate layers of ice and salt till the bucket is full. Now turn the crank slowly until it will not move any more. Let off the water that has accumulated, refill with ice, and then cover with a thick piece of bagging or carpet. Then let it stand aside in a cool place to ripen, till you are ready to serve.

Fruit puddings and custards may be frozen in the same manner.

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How to Mold Ice Cream When ready to serve, if you wish to take the cream out of the mold whole, have ready a dish with a flat bottom, and a pan of hot water. Then roll the tin mold for an instant only in the water, and wipe it quickly, holding the top downwards. Remove the lid, and quickly turn it right side up, setting the plate on the table and removing the mold carefully. Or you may wring out cloths in scalding water and wrap them an instant around the mold, and proceed as above. This is a very delicate way of serving the cream, and allows it to be brought to the table in all its beauty and perfection of molding. The cream may also be. molded into a single brick by having a_ brick shaped mold and filling it with the cream, When well filled, press down closely and cover the mold carefully, so that no pieces of salt or any salt water can enter it or penetrate it. Fill the bottom of a pail with ice, mingled with rock salt; lay the mold upon it, cover it deeply with cracked ice and salt mixed, and let it stand for about half an hour. When frozen, set the mold in luke warm water, wash off all ice and salt, lift the mold out gently, uncover, turn into a dessert dish and serve immediately.

Apricot Ice Cream Créme Glacée auz Abricote. ound of Sugar.

1 Quart of Apricots or 1 Pint Can. Prepare thd cream as in recipe Ice Cream (see recipe), and let cool for half an hour. Pare and mash the apricots, being careful to remove the stones, Then stir them into the cream, mixing thoroughly for five minutes, till all are well dissolved together. Then strain through a fine sieve into a freezer, pressing the fruit down with a wooden spoon; and when well packed proceed to freeze as in the directions for Plain Ice Cream. (See directions.) Banana Ice Cream Oréme Glacée auz Bananes, 6 Large Bananas.

Peel the bananas and slice and mash them. Boil the milk, and add the sugar, stirring till well dissolved. Then add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light, and let cool for an hour. Stir in the bananas, which have been already well beaten to a smooth paste, and proceed as directed above. Chocolate Ice Cream Oréme au Chocolat.

1 Quart of Milk or Cream.

% Pound of the Best French Chocolate. Boil the milk, and add to it a half pound of the best French chocolate, grated. Let it boil and thicken, beating till smooth. Add a quarter of a When cool add half a quart of cream and the Vanilla Extract. Pour into the freezer, after mixing well, and proceed as in directions for making and freezing cream.

Chocolate Ice Cream With Eggs Créme Glacée au Chocolat.

4 Ounces of Chocolate.

6 Ounces of Sugar. 1 Pint of Milk. 8 Yolks of Eggs.

Dissolve the chocolate in a little water, and add it to the boiling milk, then pour this over the eggs and sugar, which have been well beaten to a thick cream. Add the Vanilla, and set to cool. Then add the remaining cream, and freeze as directed. Coffee Ice Cream Créme Glacée au Café.

1 Pint of New Milk.

% Cup of Strong Café Noir (Black Coffee).

Boil the milk. Take from the fire. Whip the cream to a stiff froth. Add the sugar and yolks of eggs, thoroughly beaten, to the milk and coffee, sweetening to taste. Set aside to cool, and add the whipped cream, and proceed to freeze as directed.. King of the Carnival Ice Cream Créme @ la Glace au Rez.

1 Quart of Milk or Cream. 6 Eggs. 1 Tablespoonful Each of the Coloring Extracts Given Below.

This cream was originated by a famous New Orleans confisseur in honor of “Rex,” the King of the worldfamed New Orleans Carnivals. It was

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first served at a Carnival luncheon in St. Charles avenue. The King’s colors are purple, green and gold. The cream represents these colors, and is made according to the following directions:

Make a Plain Ice Cream. Divide into three distinct and equal portions. Color one with Spinach Greenery, to obtain the green effect; flavor another with Essence of Vanilla, and color with orange juice or a bit of saffron, to obtain the golden yellow; and tint the third with a deep Créme de Violette, for the royal purple. Freeze in separate molds. Then pack into one freezer, and when frozen remove, according to direction for taking ice cream whole from a mold. Cut in slices and serve. Molds now come made in the shape of tiny flags, and the effect suggests at once Rex and his merry reign.

Lemon Ice Cream Créme Glacée au Citron.

1Quart of Cream or Milk.

1 Tablespoonful of Lemon Extract. Put the milk or cream on to boil. If cream is used, six eggs will be sufficient; if milk, use eight. Beat the yolks of the eggs’and the sugar very light, and then beat the whites to a stiff froth. Take the milk off the fire, and po.r it over the sugar and yolks, stirring all the while. Then add the whites, mixing thoroughly, and two tablespoonfuls of extract of lemon. Set to cool, and then turn into the freezer, pack, freeze for about ten minutes, and finish as in recipe for making and freezing Cream. (See Mandarin Ice Cream Créme Glacée & VOranges.

1 Quart of Cream or Milk.

The Grated Rind of 2 Mandarina. The Juice of 1 Dozen, With the Grated Pulp.

Peel the mandarins, grate quite fine the thin rind of two, extract the juice of twelve, and, after taking out the seeds, mash the inner fruit or pulp through a sieve. Put the milk or cream on to boil. Beat the yolks of eggs and sugar till very light, and beat the whites to a stiff froth. Pour the boiling milk over the sugar and yolks, stirring all the while. Set to cool, then add the whites of the eggs, and finally the grated mandarin pulp, rind and juice, and mix well. Turn all into a freezer and proceed as in the directions given for making Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Neapolitan Ice Cream > Créme Neapolitaine.

1 Pint of Vanilla Cream.

1 Pint of Pistache Ice Cream. 1 Pint of Strawberry or Raspberry Prepare the ice cream according to recipes. (See recipes.) Have at hand. a@ brick form or mold that will hold three pints. Lay at the bottom of the mold Pistache Ice Cream; place over this the Vanilla Cream, and on top of this the Raspberry or Strawberry Cream. Cover the mold tightly and set to free:: for two hours, Then plunge the mold into warm water, wash off all the salt and dry. Then carefully uncover and unmold the cream in a cold dessert dish or on a piece of paper. Take a long, sharp knife, dip into warm water, cut the brick of cream through the center, and then divide the pieces into three or four parts, each being perfectly square. Arrange daintily on a cold dessert dish, and serve immediately. Nectarine Ice Cream Créme Glacée aur Nectarines. 1 Quart of Cream or Milk.

1 Quart of Nectarines or 1 Pint Can. Peel the nectarines, stone and mash well, with half of the sugar. Let'them stand for an hour or more, and press through a sieve. Set the milk to boi!; remaining half of the sugar to a cream, and beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth. Pour the hot milk over the sugar and yolks, stirring all the while. Set to cool. Then add the mashed nectarines and sugar; mix all thoroughly, turn into freezer and proceed as in the general directions fur making Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Nougat Ice Cream Créme Glacée au Nougat.

1 Pint of Nougat.

3 Drops of Essence of Peach Kernels. Make some Nougat (see recipe), using about a pint. Bruise and mash

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LS it, and blend with one gill of orange flower water. Add to this the sugar and the yolks of the eggs, beaten to a thick cream. Set the milk to boil. Then add to it the above ingredients, stirring well, and adding at the end the Essence of Peach Kernels, and stiff froth. Then freeze in the manner above directed. Left-over Nougat may be utilized in this way. Orange Ice Cream Créme Glacée a VOrange.

The Juice of 12 Oranges.

The Grated Rind of 2 Oranges, Rubbed on Sugar.

Boil the milk or cream in a farina boiler, and while hot pour it over the yolks of the eggs, which have been beaten to a thick cream, with the sugar; add the orange juice and rind. Stir till all begins to thicken. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Set to cool. Turn into the freezer, and proceed in the manner above indicated.

Orange Flower Ice Cream Créme Glacfe @ la Fleur d@’Orange. 1 Quart of Cream. % Pound _ of Sugar. 1 Ounce of Candied Orange Flowers. Bruise the orange flowers, and mix and stir them with the boiling milk. Then take from the fire, and add the sugar, and dissolve well, and then the beaten yolks of the eggs, mix well. Freeze in the manner above indicated. Peach Ice Cream Créme Glacée aur Péches.

8 Ripe Peaches or 1 Can.

Put the milk to boil, and when hot take from the fire, and add the yolks of the eggs, which have been beaten to a thick cream with the powdered sugar. Put aside to cool for thirty minutes. Then add the peaches, which have been all pared, stoned and mashed, and stir them quickly into the cream. Now add the whites Mix all thoroughly together and pour into the freezer. Turn the crank rapidly for a few minutes, till thoroughly mixed, and then cover and let stand for two hours.

Pistachio Icc Cream Créme Glacée aue Pistaches. 1 Quart of Milk or Cream.

% Pound of Shelled, Scalded and Cleaned Pistachio Nuts.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Spinach Greening. or 5 Drops of Spinach Green. Water or Almond Extract.

Wash and boil the Spinach for five minutes, and then draim through a colander. Reduce it to a pulp, and then squeeze out the juice through a piece of fine muslin. One quart of Spinach will furnish the proper amount of juice when boiled and squeezed. Then wash, scald, clean and pulverize the pistachios to a pulp. Set half the milk to boil in a farina boiler. Add the sugar, and stir till well dissolved. Take off and add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very, very light. Stir and add the nuts, and stir till it thickens. Then stand away to cool. When cool, add the flavoring extract and the remaining cream, reserving a small portion to work into the Spinach which is now added, and blend smoothly. When the color is a light green turn into a freezer and proceed as directed above. Pincappic Ice Cream Créme Glacte @ VAnanas, 1 Large, Ripe Pineapple.

1 Quart of Cream or Milk. 6 Eggs. Peel the pineapple, and then grate and pound and mash the pulp with one-half of the sugar. Press through a sieve. Put the milk or cream on to boil. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the remaining half of the sugar very light, and then beat the whites to a stiff froth. Pour the hot milk over the sugar and yolks, stirring all the while. Then add the whites, mixing thoroughly. Add the pineapple and juice and mix well. Set to cool and then turn into the freezer, pack and proceed as in the recipe for making and freezing Pineapple Mousse Mousse & VAnanas.

3 Tablespoonfuls of Vanilla. Peel the pineapple, and cut onehalf into slices. Lay them in a bowl

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and sprinkle with powdered sugar. Cover and set aside till needed. Grate the remainder of the pineapple into an eathen vessel, add sugar sufficient to sweeten to taste, and pour in the vanilla. Then mix carefully with the cream, which should be at least three times the weight of the pineapple. Turn all into an ice cream mold and proceed to freeze as directed above. Serve with slices of pineapple and pour a little syrup around the frozen cream, which should be turned out of the mold according to directions given above.

Raspberry Ice Cream Créme Glacée auz Frambotses. 1 Quart of Raspberries or 2 Tablespoonfuls of Raspberry Extract. Set the milk to boil, add the sugar, and when well dissolved take from the fire, add the eggs, well beaten to a cream, and set aside to cool. Then, when cool, add the remaining half of the sugar, which has been well blended with the berries, which must be mashed well, allow it to stand for several hours, and then press through a sieve. Mix well with the milk, add the lemon juice, turn into the freezer, and freeze as above directed. If the berries are too pale to color the cream effectively, add a few drops of Raspberry Extract. When raspberries are not in season, use two tablespoonfuls of Raspberry Extfact, and proceed as in recipe for Vanilla Cream. Rice Ice Cream Oréme Glacée au Riz.

2% Pints of Milk. % Pound of Sugar. 4 Ounces of Boiled Rice.

% Pint of Milk of Almonds. A Compote of 6 Oranges.

Boil the rice in the milk till very soft. ‘Do not mash. Set the pint and a half extra milk to boil, and add the rice and the milk of almonds and the sugar and eggs, beaten to a cream. Make a custard. Take from the fire. Set to freeze as above directed, and when cold turn out of the mold (see recipe), place in a dish, garnish around with the oranges (see Compote of Oranges), pour the syrup over all, and serve.

Rose Ice Cream Créme Glacée @ la Rose.

2 Teaspoonfuls of Red Rose Extract and Vanilla.

Prepare exactly as in recipe for Ice Cream, using the same ingredients, and flavor with two tablespoonfuls of Red Rose Extract and Vanilla. Strawberry Ice Cream Creme Glacée aug Fraises, 1 Quart of Strawberries or 2 Tablespoonfuls of Strawberry Extract. 6 Eggs. The Juice of 1 Lemon. Set the milk the boil; take from the fire, add the yolks of the eggs, well beaten to a cream, with half the sugar, and set aside to cool. Then, add the remaining half of the sugar, which has been well blended with the strawberries, mash all well, and allow it to stand for several hours and then press through a sieve. Mix well with the milk, add the lemon juice and the froth; turn into the freezer, and freeze as above directed. When strawberries are not in season, flavor the cream with the Extract.

Tutti-Frutti1 Pint of Vanilla Ice Cream. % Pint_of Strawberry -Ice Cream. Pint of Lemon Sherbet.

2 Ounces of Candied Cherries. 1 Ounce of Candied Orange. 2 Ounces of Candied Apricots. 1 Ounce of Candied Currants. Prepare the Vanilla and Strawberry Ice Cream and the Lemon Sherbet according to recipes given (see recipes). Have ready six or eight tuttifrutti molds. Cut the candied cherries into halves or quarters, and the candied oranges and apricots into small pieces. Open the tutti-frutti molds and fill in the bottom with Vanilla Cream. Lay side by side in the covers of the molds a spoonful of Lemon Sherbet and a spoonful of Strawberry Cream; mix the candied fruits together and divide them into equal parts, and lay these on the Vanilla Cream in the bottom of the molds. Then press the covers tightly on each mold, and after seeing that they are firmly closed, lay the mold in a pail. the bottom of which has been filled with broken ice and rock

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————— salt. Cover the mold with more rock salt and ice and proceed to lay the molds one over the other, alternating with the ice and rock salt. When all are covered, fill in the pail with broken pieces of ice and rock salt, cover and let freeze for one hour. Have ready some warm water and six or eight very cold dessert plates covered with dainty paper cases fancifully cut. Lift up the molds gently and wash them off very quickly with the warm water, being careful to see that no salt adheres. Then open the molds and lay the tutti-frutti in the paper cases and serve immediately. Creole Tutti-Frutti Tutti-Frutti d la Créole.

1 Quart of Orange _ Sherbet. ‘, Bin of Cherries, Seeded. (See Pint of Stoned Apricots.

Pint of Stoned Peaches.

% Pint of rigs. a, Pint of Pineapple. % Pint of Watermelon.

Cut the watermelon and the pineapple into very small square lozenges, first seeding the watermelon. Cut the rest of the fruits very fine. Then put a layer of the watermelon into the freezer, and sprinkle generously with white powdered sugar. Then put in a layer of the mixed fruits, sugar thickly, pour in a little of the:sherbet, and proceed in this way until the whole form its nearly filled with the mixture in alternate layers. Then set in a double boiler just long enough for the sugar to melt. Take out, pour over the orange sherbet, close tightly, and set to freeze.

Vanilla Ice Cream Créme Glacée @ la Vanille, 1_ Quart of Milk or Cream. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Any Extract. Put the milk or cream on to boil. If cream is used, six eggs will be sufficient; if milk, use eight. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar very light, and then beat the whites to a stiff froth. Pour the hot milk over the sugar and yolks, stirring all the while. Then add the whites, mixing thoroughly, and two tablespoonfuls of extract of either Lemon or Vanilla. Set to cool, and then turn into the freezer, pack, and finish as in recipe for making and freezing cream. (See Variegated Ice Cream Créme Panachée.

1 Quart of Milk or Cream.

1 Pound of Sugar. 6 Eggs.

1 Teaspoontul of Essence of Stra wberry. 1 Teaspoonful of Essence of Vanilla 1 Teaspoonful of Chocolate. 1 Teaspoonful of Cream of Violets. 1 Teaspoonful of Spinach Greenery. Prepare a Plain Ice Cream. (See recipe “Ice Cream.”) Divide it into portions. Color one with Essence of Strawberry, another with Spinach Greenery, another with Vanilla, to obtain yellow, another with Créme de Violettes, another with chocolate, etc. Freeze all these in separate molds, that may be bought especially for this purpose. When frozen, take from the individual molds and pack neatly in a large ice cream freezer, so that the colors may blend well. Freeze again, and then remove from the mold according to directions given above for unmolding. Cut into slices and serve. The effect of the various colors is very pretty.

BISCUITS GLACES Set one-half the cream to boil. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the sugar till they are exceedingly light. Take the boiling milk from the fire, and stir in, while still very hot, the sugar and eggs. Then set to cool. Now freeze just as Ice Cream. In the meantime, whip the remaining cream to a very thick froth, as in Whipped Cream & la Vanille, adding the Vanilla, and stir it into the freezing cream. Cut paper cases, or use the specially prepared molds that come for Biscuit Glacé, and fill with the mixture, and then heap the tops an inch high with a little of the cream, which has been colored with a teaspoonful of Strawberry Extract and a few drops of Cochineal. Pack these molds or cases in salt, and freeze for two hours longer, until they can be turned out whole.

Biscuits Glacés, Creole Style Biscuite Glacés 2 la Créole. 1 Pint of Milk. The Yolks of 6 Eggs. ki Pound of Pulverized Sugar. 1 Tablespoonful of Vanilla or Lemon Set one pint of milk to boil. Beat the yolks of six eggs with a half J

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pound of white pulverized sugar until light. Stir in the milk. Take from the fire, and let cool. Flavor with vanilla and freeze. Whip one pint of cream to a stiff froth, and stir in. Fill molds or fancy paper, cases with the mixture, pack in salt and ice for two hours, and serve.

BOMBE GLACEE % Pint of Strawberry Sherbet. For this purpose you must have Bombe Glacée molds. Line the molds about three-fourths of an inch thick with Strawberry Water Ice (see recipe), and then fill the center with the Biscuit Glacé, prepared as above. The biscuit must be freezing cold when put into the mold. Pack in salt and ice, and set to freeze several hours. SHERBETS Sorbets, Sherbets are delightful water ices, differing from ice creams in this, that no milk or eggs are used in the making, the juice of the fruit or extract of fruit or essence flavoring and sugar and water being prepared and frozen together. Sherbet is served in glasses. Water ices are made in exactly the same manner as sherbets, only the water and sugar are not boiled; they are simply mixed together, the flavoring or fruit juice is added and then they are frozen, and served immediately.

Apple Sherbet Sorbet auw Pommes, 1% Pints of Apple Juice.

Pare, core and quarter about twelve apples and cook till very tender. Put the sugar and water to boil, add the apples, and when very tender strain all through a sieve. Add the juice of the lemon and set to freeze as in Ice Cream. (See recipe for Freezing Ice Cream.) Serve as desired.

Apricot Sherbet Borbet aug Abricots.

% Pint of Apricot Juice, 1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. Put the sugar and water to boil. Wash about one dozen apricots, pare, press them through a sieve, and add to the boilng syrup. Let all boil for five or ten minutes, Then press through a sieve again; add the lemon juice, mix well and set to freeze as in general directions for freezing Ice Banana Sherbet Sorbet aug Bananes.

1 Dozen Bananas. 1 Pound of S 1 Quart of Water. ugar:

The Juice of 2 Oranges.

Peel and mash the bananas. Boil the sugar and water together for five minutes. Take from the fire, and let cool. Then add the bananas and the orange juice, and press all through a sieve. Set to freeze as directed. Cherry Sherbet Sorbet aue Certses.

1 Pound of Cherries. 1 Pound of Sugar. ~ Boil the sugar and water together for five minutes. Stone the cherries and add them to the syrup. Then set to cool. Press through a sieve till all the juice is extracted from the cherries, Set to freeze and serve as directed.

Currant Sherbet Sorbet auz Groseilies.

1 Pint of Currant Juice.

1 Quart of Water. 1 Pound of Sugar. Mash one quart of currants. Boil the sugar and water for five minutes. Add the currants and strain through @ napkin or sieve, being careful to press very hard to extract the juice of the currants. Set to freeze as directed.

Grape Sherbct Sorbet aur Raisins.

1 Pint of Malaga Grapes.

1 Pound of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. Boil the sugar and water five minutes. Mash the grapes and add all] to the sugar and water. Set to cool. Then press through a fine cloth, mashing hard to extract all the juice of the grapes. Set to freeze and serve as directed.

Lemon Sherbet Sorbet aun Citrone.

The Grated Rind of 3 Lemons. 1 Pint of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water., Put the sugar and water to boil. Grate the yellow rind of three fresh lemons, and add to the syrup, and let it boil for five minutes. Then set

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away to cool. Extract the juice from the lemons, and grate the fruit. Mix this with the syrup, and then strain through a thin muslin cloth. Turn into the freezer, and proceed as in Ice Cream.

Orange Sherbet Sorbet & VOranges.

12 Large Louisiana Oranges. The Rind of 3 Oranges.

1 Pint of Sugar.

Put the sugar and water to boil. Grate the yellow rind of three sweet oranges and add to the syrup, and Jet it boil for five minutes. Then set away to cool. Extract the juice from the oranges and lemons, and grate the fruit. Mix this with the syrup, and then strain all through a thin muslin cloth. Turn into the freezer, and proceed as in Ice Cream. Peach Sherbet Sorbet auz Péches.

1 Dozen Fine Peaches.

Pare and cut the peaches in halves, remove the stones and chop the fruit up very fine, sprinkle with a half pound of sugar, mash well together and set aside for an hour. Then put the water and the remaining half of the sugar to boil. After five minutes remove from the fire and let cool; add the peaches and mix well. Then press all through a fine cloth sieve, extracting all the juice from the peaches. Set to freeze and serve as directed, in glasses. This is a delicious sherbet. Pineapple Sherbet Borbet @ KAnanas.

1 Pound of Grated Pineapple. 1 Pint of Sugar.

Peel and slice and pound the pineapple to a pulp. Then rub through a strainer. Put the sugar and water to boil for five minutes. Then set away to cool. Extract the juice from the lemon and mix this with the syrup, add the pineapple and juice, and then strain all through a thin muslin cloth. Turn into the freezer and proceed as in ice cream. This sherbet is also made by using, instead of the pineapple, fruit and juice, two tablespoonfuls of Pineapple Extract. Pomegranate Sherbet Sorbet auz Grenades.

8 Ripe Pomegranates.

% Teaspoonful of Essence of Vanilla 3 Drops of CochineaL The pips of six or eight ripe pomegranates, pressed with a wooden spoon through a strainer, will produce a pint of juice. -Make a syrup by boiling one quart of water and one pint of sugar. Add, when cooling, the pomegranate juice, a half teaspoonful of Essence of Vanilla, the juice of a lemon, and a few drops of Cochineal Proceed to freeze as above directed. Raspberry Sherbet Sorbet aue Framboises.

1% Pints of Raspberry Juice or Pulp. 1% Pints of Picked Raspberries. 3 Drops of Cochineal Juice of % Lemon. Stem the berries, and add the sugar and lemon, and stand aside in their juice for an hour and a half. Then strain the berries and their juice through a fine sieve. Turn into the freezer, and proceed to freeze according to directions given under heading “Ice Cream.” This sherbet is also made by adding to the sugar and water two tablespoonfuls of Raspberry Extract, instead of the fruit, when not available.

Strawberry Sherbet Sorbet aug Praises.

1% Pints of Strawberry Juice or Pulp. 1% Pints of Picked Red Strawberries. 3 Drops of Cochineal.

Stem the strawberries and add the sugar and lemon, and stand aside in their juice for an hour and a half. Then strain through a fine sieve, and turn into the freezer and proceed to freeze according to directions given under the heading “Ice Cream.” Strawberry Sherbet is also made by adding one tablespoonful of Strawberry Extract to the sugar and water, when the fruit is not available. WATER ICES Water ices, as mentioned above, are made in exactly the same manner as sherbets, only the sugar and water are not boiled. In this case always mash the fruit with the sugar and set

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— ee ———— aside to grow juicy. Then press through a fine muslin cloth, to extract all the juice, and add to the water. Mix well for a few minutes and freeze. In case peaches or apricots or cherries are used, pound the fruit, to extract all the juice, and mix well with the sugar; strain through a fine sieve or muslin cloth, and add to the cold water, and proceed to freeze. To make Water Ices, follow the directions given for making Sherbet, with the exception of boiling the FROZEN FRUITS Des Fruits Glacés.

Remember that in freezing, fruits must always be mashed or cut very fine, for they freeze more quickly than liquids. Fresh fruits are always more delicious than canned fruits. How to Freeze Fruits Cut fine one pound of fruit, or one can, and mix with two cups of sugar, and one pint of water. Then freeze in the ice cream freezer, according to directions already given for freezing. The proportions of ingredients used in freezing fruits are generally one pint of fruit, one pint of water and half a pound of sugar. Peaches and such watery fruits may often be frozen without additional water. Serve with rich cream or milk.

Frozen Apricots Abricots Glacés.

2 Fine, Ripe Apricots.

1 Pint of Water or Cream.

Pare the apricots, cut them in two, remove the stones, and cut the fruit in small pieces. Mash them and the sugar together, add the water or cream, and turn into the freezer and proceed to freeze as in Ice Cream. (See recipe Ice Cream.) Frozen Bananas Bananes Glacés.

1 Dozen Fine Bananas.

1 Pint of Sugar or Cream.

The Juice of 2 Oranges.

Peel the bananas, cut them very fine and mash well; add the cream or water and the orange juice, turn into the freezer and pack away in ice and rock salt. Set to freeze according to directions given for freezing Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Frozen Cherrics Cerises Glacéca.

1 Pound of Cherries.

Stone the cherries, mix them with the sugar and add the water. Mix well and freeze as in directions for Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Serve with Whipped Cream or rich milk. Frozen Oranges Oranges Glacécs, 6 Fine Oranges.

‘Pare the oranges, and grate or cut them into fine pieces. Mix well with the sugar and set aside for an hour. Add the water and mix thoroughly. Turn into a freezer and freeze as in Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Frozen Peaches Péches Glacées.

12 Large Peaches, Take twelve large peaches or one can, two cups of sugar, and one pint of water. Cut the peaches fine, and mix all the ingredients together. Then freeze according to directions already given.

Peaches, if very juicy, may often be frozen without additional water. Serve with rich cream or milk.

Frozen Pineapple Ananas Glacés.

1 Large Pineapple.

Pare the pineapples. Cut out the eyes, and then grate the fruit, or cut it very fine. Add the sugar and water and stir well. When the sugar is thoroughly dissolved, turn the mixture into a freezer, and proceed to freeze as in Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Frozen Strawberries Fratses Glacées.

1 Quart of Strawberries.

Mash the berries with the sugar and set aside for an hour. Add the water and mix well, and freeze as in Ice Cream (see recipe). Serve with rich milk or Whipped Cream.

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en} Macedoine of Fruits Macedoine de Fruits.

1 Quart of Lemon Ice Cream. 2 Ounces of Stoned Cherries. 2 Ounces of Pineapples, Cut in_ Dice.

2 Ounces of Strawberries.

2 Ounces of Grapes. 2 Ounces of Peaches.

2 Ounces of Apricots.

2 Ouncés of Oranges.

1 Ounce of Candied Cherries. 1 Ounce of Candied Pineapple. Prepare a quart of Lemon Ice Cream (see recipe). Add to this a half teaspoonful of vanilla, two ounces each of stoned cherries, pineapple cut into dice shape, two ounces of strawberries, two ounces of grapes, apricots, and peaches cut into small pieces, and the candied fruits in equal proportions. Mix all the fruits lightly, turn into’a freezer and proceed to freeze as in Ice Cream. (See recipe.) Again, this Macedoine may be prepared by using instead of the Lemon Cream a pint of syrup made of sugar and water to which has been added the juice of three lemons. A very delightful and pretty way of freezing this Macedoine is to prepare the cream, mix all the candied and the fresh fruits together; have ready a square ice cream mold, and place one-fourth of the lemon cream at the bottom; divide the fruits into three parts, and place one portion on top of the cream. Cover this with another portion of cream, and lay on top the fruits. Again cover with the cream, and lastly with the fruits. Fill up the mold with the remaining portion of the cream, cover closely, pack in broken ice and rock salt, and set to freeze for two hours. Just before serving have ready a vessel with warm water, lift the mold and wash off rapidly, being very careful to remove all salt and ice. Carefully take the Macedoine of Fruits from the mold. turn into a cold dessert dish and serve immediately.

CHAPTER XLII Des Strops, Ete.

No book on Creole cookery would be complete without reference to those delightful fruit syrups which are variously known as ‘“Sirops,” “Ratafias,” “Granits,” etc. SYRUPS Btropa.

Under this heading are classed those delightful beverages of fruits or nuts, served by the Creole housewives during the summer season. On a hot, sultry day, if you enter a well regulated household, the first thing Madam will do will be regale you with a glass of Lemonade, or “Iced Orgeat,” or “Iced Pineapple,” etc. The syrups are put up and bottled by Madame herself, and are always at hand.

Gencral Directions for Making Syrups The Plain Syrup, that is the basis of all fruit syrups, is simply sugar and water boiled together in the proportion of two pounds of sugar to a pint and a half of water. Cook the sugar and water till it forms the syrup called “‘Le petit Cassé” (see recipe under heading “Sugar as Employed in Candy-Making”’’), or crack, that is, cook it till it instantly snaps asunder when placed between the fingers after dipping them in cold water for this test. Then add the Fruit Syrup and mix thoroughly. Let it boil for about five minutes; take off the fire and let it get almost cold, then bottle very tight.

One quart of fruit when mashed and pressed will make a pint of Fruit Syrup, to be added to the Plain Syrup given above.

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Apricot Syrup Birop @’Abricots.

12 Pints of Apricot Syrup. 1 Ounce of Essence of Apricots. Pare and stone the apricots, then cut them into pieces, pound and mash well and set them aside for thirty-six hours in a cool place. Then strain through a bag, pressing out all the juice. Cook the sugar and water till it forms the syrup called “Le Petit Cassé.” (See general directions for Making Syrups.) Then add the apricot juice and mix thoroughly; let it boil for five minutes, take off the fire, when it is almost cold, add the essence, and then bottle for use. Banana Syrup Birop de Bananes.

2 Pints of Banana Juice.

% Ounce of Banana Essence. Peel the bananas, then cut into small pieces and pound and mash well and set aside in a cool place for thirty-six hours. Then strain through a bag and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Apricot Syrup (see recipe), and add the essence and lemon juice when about to bottle. Blackberry Syrup Birop de Mares.

% Pint of Blackberry Juice. 1 Gallon of Syrup.

Pick, stem and wash the blackberries, then pound and mash them well, set aside in a cool place for thirty-six hours. Then strain through a bag, pressing out all the juice, and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Apricot Syrup. (See recipe.) Cherry Syrap Birop de Ceriscs.

12 Pints of Cherry Juice.

Seed the cherries, and stem, pound and mash them well, and let them stand for thirty-six hours in a cool place. _Then strain through a bag, Cook the sugar and water slowly till it forms the kind of syrup that instantly snaps asunder when placed between the fingers, after dipping them in cold water to enable you to test. Then add the fruit syrups and mix thoroughly. Let it boil for about five minutes, take off the fire, let it get almost cold, and then put up in bottles.

Cranberry Syrup Sirop d’Airelles, 2 Pints of Cranberry Juice. % Ounce of Soluble Essence of Lemon. ner as for Currant Syrup (see recipe below), adding twice the quantity of sugar, and adding the essence after the syrup has somewhat cooled and you are about to bottle it. Currant Syrup Btrop de Groseilies.

2 Pints of Currant Juice.

Pick, seed, wash and dry the currants carefully. Then pound them well and set aside in a cool place for thirty-six hours. Make a Plain Syrup (see recipe), and proceed as in the General Directions for Making Fruit Syrups. (See directions.) Currant Syrup with Raspberries Strop de Groseilles Framboisee. 1 Pint of Currant Juice.

6 Pounds of Currants.

1 Pound of Sour Cherries.

1 Pound of Raspberries.

1% Pints of Water.

The cherries and raspberries are not necessary, but they give the syrup a most delightful flavor and aroma. Pick, wash, seed and dry the currants carefully. Seed the cherries, and stem them and the raspberries, pound and mash them well, and let them stand for thirty-six hours in a cool place. Then strain through a bag. Cook the sugar and water till it forms the syrup which instantly snaps asunder when placed between the fingers, after dipping them in cold water, to enable you to test. Then add the fruit syrups, and mix thoroughly. Let it boil for about five minutes, take off the fire, let it get almost cold, and then put up in bottles.

Lemon Syrup Sirop de Citrons.

8 Ounces of Lemon Juice.

% Ounce of Extract of Lemon. Press the juice from the lemons and grate the rind of four into the syrup, set aside in a cool place for six or eight hours. Then strain carefully through a bag. Make a Plain Syrup, using the proportions of fifteen ounces of sugar to a pint and a half of water.

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Prepare a gallon of syrup, and then proceed as in the General Directions for Making Syrups (see directions). Add the essence when about to bottle. Lime Syrup Btrop de Limons.

2 Pints of Lime Juice.

% Ounce of Soluble Essence of Limes. as for Lemon Syrup, and add the essence when about to bottle. Orange Syrup Sirop d'Orangea, 2 Quarts of Orange Juice.

1 Ounce of Lemon Juice.

as for Lemon Syrup, and bottle when almost cold. This is a favorite Creole Syrup.

Qrgeat Syrup Sirop d’Orgeat.

1 Pound of Sweet Almonds.

4 Ounces of Bitter Almonds. 2 Pounds of Sugar. 1 Quart of Water. 2 Ounces of Orange Flower Water. The Peel of a Lemon.

Do not throw the Almonds into hot water and blanch them, as in other recipes for almonds, but throw them into cold water, after shelling them, until the peeling or skin comes off easily. Then mash them and pound them in a mortar till they are reduced to a fine powder, adding, from time to time, a little water and the well grated rind of the lemon. When this paste is perfectly made, moisten it with one-half of the water, and then squeeze it hard through a linen cloth, each end of which is held by some one, so that it may be drained thoroughly of all milk. Then return the paste to the mortar, pour in the rest of the water, mix thoroughly, pounding well, and then squeeze again through the towel. Put the sugar into a farina boiler, and boil it slowly until it snaps asunder between the fingers after testing in cold water. Then add the milk of almonds, stirring well. Return it to the fire, and let it simmer gently until it begins to boil. After it has boiled for several minutes, take it off the fire and let it cool. When cold, add the orange flower water, and mix well. Now drain all through a cloth or bag, and fill and seal the bottles.

Orgeat, being made of the milk of almonds, easily decomposes or sours, because the oil of almonds, being lighter than the other ingredients, rises to the top. For this reason, it is well to look at the bottles frequently and shake them daily. This will keep the ingredients well mixed and also preserve the Orgeat.

Use only the finest white loaf sugar in making Orgeat Syrup.

Peach Syrup Birop de Péches.

2 Pints of Peach Juice.

% Ounce of Peach Essence.

Pare and stone the peaches, then pound and mash well and set aside in a cool place for thirty-six hours. Strain through a bag, pressing out all the juice, then proceed in exactly the same manner as for Apricot Syrup, and add the essence as the syrup cools and you are about to bottle it. Pineapple Syrup Strop d’Ananas.

2 Pints of Pineapple Juice. 1 Ounce of Lemon Juice.

Pare the pineapples, cutting out the eyes and the core. Then cut into very fine pieces and mash and pound well. or grate the pineapple, which is better. Set aside for thirty-six hours in a cool place. Then strain through a fine muslin bag, pressing out all the juice. Then cook a Plain Syrup and proceed as in the General Directions for Making Fruit Syrups. (See directions.) Plum Syrup Sirop de Prunes.

2 Pints of Plum Juice.

Stone the plums, pound and mash well and set aside in a cool place for thirty-six hours. Then proceed in exactly the same manner as in the recipe for Apricot Syrup. (See recipe.) Strawberry Syrup Strop de Fraises.

2 Pints of Strawberry Syrup. 1 Gallon of Plain rup.

1 Ounce of Raspberry Essence. Pick, stem and wash the strawberries, then pound and mash them well,

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nn en] a‘nd let them stand for thirty-six hours im a cool place. Then strain through @ bag. Cook the sugar and water till it forms the syrup called “Le Petit Cassé.” Then add the fruit syrups, and mix thoroughly. Let it boil for about five minutes, take off the fire, let it get almost cold, and then put up in bottles.

Raspberry Syrup Sirop de Framboises.

2 Pints of Raspberry Syrup. 1 Ounce of Raspberry Essence. Pick, stem and wash the _ berries and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Strawberry Syrup, adding the essence when about to bottle. Vanilla Syrup Sirop de Vanille.

3 Ounces of Extract of Vanilla. % Ounce of Caramel.

Boil the syrup and add the Caramel. (See recipe.) Drain and then add the essence of vanilla. Stir well and bottle.

Blackberry Vinegar Vinaigre de Mares.

2 Quarts of Blackberries.

1 Quart of Good French Vinegar. Put one quart of blackberries into a jar or deep vessel, and pour over the vinegar. Let them stand for twenty-four hours longer.

again, and again add the fruit, repeating this operation three times, and let stand for twenty-four hours longer. Then strain through a mustard bag, and add one pound of white sugar to every pint of the liquor, and botl the whole in a porcelain kettle for half an hour. When cold bottle it and keep it in a cool place. Blackberry Vinegar made after this manner will keep for years, improving with age.

Currant Vinegar and Cherry Vinegar are prepared in the same manner as above.

Orange Vinegar Vinaigre d’Oranges.

1_Quart of Good French Cider. 1%; Pounds of Sugar to 1 Quart of Orange Syrup.

Peel the oranges. Slice them very thin and cover with pure cider vine, cooled somewhat, bottle it. Strain them.

gar, and let them stana for three or four days. Then mash them through a cloth, straining as long as the juice runs clear. To every quart of juice allow one and two-thirds pounds of fine white sugar. Then boil all together for about ten minutes, and skim very carefully, until no scum rises upon the surface. When it has Put a tablespoonful of this extract in a glass of cold ice water in warm weather, and you will have one of the most refreshing of the Creole summer drinks.

Pineapple Vinegar Vinaigre d’Ananas.

3 Pineapples.

1_ Quart of Pure Cider Vinegar. 1% Pounds of Sugar to Every Quast of Juice.

Cover the pineapples, which have been very nicely sliced, with pure cider vinegar, and let them stand for three or four days. Then mash them through a cloth, straining as long as the juice runs clear. To every quart of juice allow one and _ two-thirds pounds of fine white sugar. Then boil all together for about ten minutes, and skim very carefully, until no scum rises upon the surface. When it has cooled somewhat, bottle it. Put a tablespoonful of this extract in a glass of cold ice water and serve as a sum“mer drink.

Raspberry Vinegar Vinaigre de Framboises.

2 Quarts of Raspberries.

1 Quart of Good French Vinegar. Put one quart of raspberries into a deep vessel, and pour over them the vinegar. Let them stand for twentyfour hours, and then strain through a jelly bag, and add the other quart of raspberries, and let them stand for twenty-four hours longer. Strain them again, and again add the fruit, repeating three times this operation of straining and letting stand twentyfour hours. Then strain through a muslin bag, and add one pound of white sugar to every pint of the liquor, and boil the whole in a porcelain kettle for half an hour. When cold, bottle it and keep it in a cool place. Raspberry Vinegar made after this manner will keep for years, improving with age. A teaspoonful of

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it in a glass of sweetened ice water makes. a most refreshing summer beverage, and is especially grateful to the sick and delicate.

Strawberry Vinegar Vinatgre de Fratses.

2 Quarts of Strawberries.

1 Quart of Good French Put one quart of strawberries into a deep vessel, and pour over them the vinegar. Let them stand for twenty-four hours, and then strain through a jelly bag, and add the other quart of the strawberries, and let them stand for twenty-four hours longer. Strain them again, and again add the fruit, repeating three times this operation of straining and letting stand twenty-four hours. Then strain through a muslin bag and add one pound of white sugar to every pint of the liquor, and boil the whole in a porcelain kettle for half an hour. When cold, bottle it and keep in a cool place.

CHAPTER XLIII ICED FRUIT DRINKS Eauz de Fruits Glacés.

These are famous Creole summer beverages, and are always served to visiting friends and at reunions in summer. They are made, for the most part, of fruit juices and syrups, but they are also made from coffee. The Orangeade, the Orgeat, and the Lemonade are the principal ones. In freezing, the Creoles put the mixture into water bottles or earthen jugs. These are set on ice and twirled around. As the contents become frozen a wooden spatula is thrust into the jar for the purpose of mixing the frozen and the liquid parts. Cherry Water Eau de Cerises.

2 Pounds of Cherries.

Stone the cherries and press the juice from the pulp into a porcelain vessel, and then add a little water and the juice of one lemon. Stir well, and let stand for two hours. Then wash the stones well and pound them fine, and add to the cherries, and add eight ounces of sugar. Let all stand one hour. Then strain the mixture and stir well and filter. Set on ice till ready to use. Serve in glasses with crushed ice.

LEMONADE Limonade.

Lemonade is among the most delightful and most commonly used of all fruit waters. Lemonade is always served very cold in summer, but there is a hot lemonade, which is extensively used by the Creoles during winter days for various purposes, mostly medicinal..

Iced Lemonade Limonade Glacée.

1 Dozen Lemons. 1 Pound of Sugar. 2 Quarts of Water. Cracked Ice. Choose the finest and freshest ripe lemons. Rasp the rind with white. crushed sugar, in order to extract the fine aromatic oil that lurks in the peel. Then squeeze the juice of the lemon, and strain it, and add the sugar and the necessary quantity of water. In making lemonade never use the rinds of the lemons, except to slice one daintily and place a piece in each glass when ready to serve. The rind simply put into the lemonade does not add to the strength but imparts a bitter and often disagreeable flavor. Extract the fine oils in the rind by rasping, as indicated, on crushed sugar. In making cold lemonade for six persons, allow six

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el ounces of sugar to five lemons, and one quart of water. Serve with crushed ice.

Hot Lemonade imonade Chaude.

6 Lemons. 2 Quarts of Water. Boil the lemons whole and unpeeled till the water is reduced to one quart. Sweeten and serve. Or proceed in exactly the same manner as above, using hot water instead of cold. The Creoles boil the lemons when the drink is to be used for medicinal purposes.

Fruit Lemonade Limonade de Frutts.

2 Dozen Lemons.

2 Quarts of Water. 1 Pineapple. 2 Bottles of Seltzer Water. 3 Dozen Fine Strawberries. Take a large punch bowl. Put into it one pound of sugar, three quarts of. water, the juice of two dozen lemons, the juice of one pineapple, two bottles of seltzer water. Mix all well. Add three dozen fine, large strawberries, and decorate with slices of pineapple and lemon sliced very thin. In case there is not sufficient sugar, sweeten again to taste. Put a large piece of ice in the bowl. When ready to serve, fill glasses one-quarter full of crushed ice, and fill up with the lemonade (being careful to have several strawberries and a slice or two of lemon and pineapple in each glass). This lemonade is delicious.

Milk of Almonds Orgeat.

6 Ounces of Almonds, 1 Ounce of Bitter Almonds. 8 Ounces of Loaf Sugar.

3 Pints of Water.

% Gill of Orange Flower Water. Blanch and peel the almonds, and soak them in cold water for several hours. Then pound them thoroughly into a pulp, adding as you pound a half gill of orange flower water. Put this into an earthen vessel with eight ounces of the finest and whitest loaf sugar. Add three pints of clear water and then stir all well together. Return to the mortar. Pound well and strain. Stir well and set the vessel on ice. At the end of an hour it will be ready for use. This is a delightful summer drink.

Strawberry Water Eau de Fraises.

% Pint of Strawberry Juice. Choose fine ripe strawberries, stem and bruise them in a little water, and let them stand for an hour or so. Then squeeze them in a cloth and pour the juice off clear. To half a pint of the juice add one quart of water and eight ounces of sugar. Stir well, strain, and put it on ice, and serve as needed during the sultry summer days. Raspberry and Currant water may be made in the same way, as also Pineapple and Orange.

Orangeade 1% Pints of Water.

The oranges must be ripe, juicy Louisiana oranges. Peel one orange and cut it in thin slices lengthwise, and then put it into a vessel with four ounces of sugar and a pint and a half of water. Squeeze the juice of the lemon and two more oranges into another vessel, and stir well. Then pour it on the sliced orange. Let it stand for a few minutes, and it is ready to use. Strain if you desire. Fruit Juice Granits ‘ Des Granites.

All manner of summer fruit beverages may be served as “Granits,” by simply freezing them according to the recipes given above.

A’ Granit is only half frozen, the thought being to make it resemble snow-frosted water; it must always be sufficently liquid to admit of being poured out into glasses and passed around to guests. The liquid may also be frozen in a freezer, but the Creoles cling to the old-fashioned water jugs. Granits are favorite drinks in France, the custom having been adopted from the Italians, who served them under the name of “Granitii.” The Granits which are compounded from fruits are the most delightful of all but they must be used at once, or they will become insipid. The following recipe for Orange Granit will serve for almost any kind of Fruit Granit:

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Orange Granit Granit d@’Orange.

1% Pints of Orange Juice.

Peel six oranges, removing every particle of pulp. Slice nicely and place in a dish, and sprinkle over them the granulated sugar. Set aside for several hours to make a syrup. Squeeze the juice from the remaining six oranges and add to the syrup formed from the other oranges, which must be carefully drained of all syrup. Add the water; mix well and strain. Then turn into a freezer and freeze till a light frosting appears. Serve in small glasses.

Strawberry Granit Grantt de Fratses.

1 Quart of Strawberries.

1 Tablespoonful of Strawberry Extract. Mash the berries and cover with the sugar, and set aside to form a syrup. Then drain and press through a sieve, extracting all the juice. Add the extract. Mix all with the water, and turn into a freezer and freeze till a light, snowy frosting appears. Then serve in long, thin glasses. Raspberry Granit Granit de Framboiscs.

1 Quart of Raspberries.

1 Tablespoonful of Raspberry Extract. Mash the berries and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Strawberry Granit.

Sassafras Mead Boisson au Sassafras.

4 Bunches of Sassafras Roots. 1% Pints of Honey.

314 Pints of Louisiana Molasses. 1 Tablespoonful of Cream of Tartar, % Teaspoonful of Carbonate of Soda. This is a. noted Creole summer drink, and is prepared as follows: Take the roots of sassafras, and make about two quarts of Sassafras Tea. Strain well. Set to boil again, and when it boils add one and one-half pints of honey, and three and onehalf pints of Louisiana Syrup or Molasses. Add a tablespoonful of Cream of Tartar. Stir well and set to cool. When cool strain it. Take about a dozen clean bottles and fill with the mixture. Cork very tight, and put in 2 cool place. Ina day it will be ready for. use. When serving this Mead. put a tablespoonful of it into half a glass of ice water and stir in a half teaspoonful of Carbonate of Soda It will immediately foam up. Drink while effervescing. This is a cheap. pleasant and wholesome summer beverage. The above recipe has been in use in Creole homes for generations. Blackberry Wine Vin de Mares.

4 Quarts of Currant Juice. Mix all the above ingredients well together, and then let them stand for twenty-four hours, having, of course, obtained the currant juice by cleanly picking, washing and drying and pressing the berries. Then let it stand for two days. After this skim well, and set in a cool place to ferment slowly for at least six days. At the end of this time remove any froth that has collected, and close tightly. In two days, when it is well settled, draw off, without disturbing the sediment, and bottle tightly and seal. This wine improves with age. Always have the bottles very clean and dry before bottling, and if larger proportions are used and a cask is necessary, remember that an old cask is more desirable than a new one, on account of the taste of the wood, and that the cask must be perfectly fresh and sweet-smelling, or the wine will sour. Currant Wine Vin de Groseilles.

4 Quarts of Currant Juice. Prepare in exactly the same manner as Blackberry Wine.

Elderberry Wine Tin de Fleurs de Sureau, 1 Peck of Elderberries.

2% Gallons of Water.

% Pint of Hop Yeast.

Bruse the elderberries, and then dilute with the water and boil for ten minutes. Then strain well and press out the juice from the berries. Measure the whole, and add the sugar and, while half warm, the yeast. Let the whole ferment for ten days. Then

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cork well. After three months draw off the wine and bottle for use. In making large quantities of this ~vine, which is used by the Creoles for many medicinal purposes, allow four pecks of elderberries to every ten gallons of water, and to every quart ‘three-quarters of a pound of sugar and a half pint of yeast.

Muscadine Wine Vin Muscadelle.

4 Quarts of Muscadine Juice. Prepare in exactly the same manner as Blackberry Wine.

Louisiana Orange Wine, Vin @Orangea de Ia Louisiane. 3 Pounds of Sugar to Every Gallon of ulce.

% Gallon of Water.

The White of 1 Egg.

Wash some fine Louisiana oranges, dry them with a cloth, peel off the yellow outer rind very, very thin, and strain all the juice through a hair sieve. Put the sugar, the crushed eggshell and white of the egg, beaten to a froth, in a porcelain-lined saucepan, add the water, and boil to a syrup, stirring constantly to prevent the egg from hardening. Let the syrup boll till it looks clear when seen through the froth of the egg, which will rise to the surface. Then strain the syrup, and pour it over the grated orange peel, and let it stand for twenty-four hours. Then add the orange juice, and strain, and put it into a cask with a small cake of compressed yeast, allowing half a cake to five gallons of wine. Close tightly, but leave the bung out of the cask until the wine ceases to ferment. As Jong as fermentation is progressing there will be a hissing sound. When this ceases fermentation has stopped. Let the wine stand for at least nine months. About four months after it has been bottled it will be ready for use. This is an excellent Lauisiana wine, and can be made with little expense.

Scuppernong Wine Vin de Muscades.

4 Quarts of Scuppernong Juice. Prepare in exactly the same manner as Blackberry Wine. (See recipe.) Strawberry Wine Vin de Fraiscs.

4 Quarts of Strawberry Juice. 1's Quarts of Cold Water.

Follow in every respect the recipe given for Blackberry Wine. ‘ SPRUCE BEER Biére de Sapin.

Boil some tender sprigs of spruce until you have an ounce of strong essence. Take one ounce of hops and a spoonful of ginger, and put them into a gallon of water. When well boiled strain the mixture, and add a pint of Louisiana Molasses or a pound of brown sugar, and then add the extract of Spruce. When cool add a teacupful of yeast (home-made), and put all into a clean, tight cask, and let it ferment for twenty-four hours or two days. Then bottle for use. Es.sence of Spruce may be purchased and used instead of the sprigs of spruce, or the Spruce Gum may be boiled. The Creoles always use the sprigs, or spruce bark rich with gum. GINGER BEER Biére de Gingembre.

2 Ounces of Bruised Ginger Root. 2 Ounces of Cream of Tartar. The Juice and Rind of 1 Lemon. 1 Teaspoonful of Yeast, or % of a Cake. Brulse and pound the ginger well, and put it into a bow! with the boiling water. Add the juice of a lemon and the well grated rind. Add the Cream of Tartar and the sugar, mixing and stirring constantly. When it is lukewarm add the yeast, dissolved in a little water. Mix well and cover tightly, and let it stand for six hours. Then strain it and put it into bottles with patent tops and keep in a cool place. It effervesces rapidly if not kept most securely corked. DOMESTIC BEVER.AGES Botssons de Ménage.

Under the heading of ‘Domestic Beverages’ might properly be classed Coffee, Tea, Chocolate and (Cocoa. daily drinks in almost every Creole household.

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TEA. Du Thé.

Tea has a stimulating and grateful effect when not taken in excess, and promotes digestion. The Creoles use most exclusively the black and green tea mixed, preferring the flavor always of the Hyson, Oolong; Bohea, Gunpowder or Heno. Like Coffee, Tea should never be boiled. It should always be made from fresh boiling water, and never in any but an eathen or agate teapot. Tea made in earthen tea urns requires longer to draw than if made in bright metal pots. Tea should never be allowed to stand long, as it acquires an unpleasant taste and loses its delightful aroma and fragrance.

To make good tea, first see that the teapot is perfectly clean. Then pour boiling water into it, and let it stand for five minutes, so that the metal or earthen urn may become thoroughly heated. Then throw out this water, and drain the urn well. Allow a teaspoonful of tea for each cup of boiling water, or, if you desire stronger tea, allow two teaspoonfuls. Put this tea into the hot pot, and pour over it a pint of boiling water, if you wish to make a quart, or, according to the quantity desired, one-half a cup of water to each cup. After five minutes add the other pint of water, or water in proportion to the number of cups desired, allowing a half cup more for each person. Serve at once, very hot. In serving the tea, put the cream or milk or sugar into the cups. The milk should be cold and unboiled, as the boiled milk destroys the flavor of the tea. Cream is far preferable to milk. Have the tea very hot, and pour it over the milk.

Always have a pitcher of very hot water at hand when about to serve the tea. Pour a little into each cup to warm it, and then empty before putting in the milk and tea. Pour the tea through a strainer, so as to avoid the possibility of leaves or dregs passing into the cup.

Dw Chocolat, 1 Cake of Grated Chocolate. 1 Quart of New Milk.

Set the milk to boil; in the meantime mix the grated chocolate with a little hot water, to blend thoroughly. Stir this in the milk as it begins to simmer, and let it boil up once, and serve hot, each one sweetening to taste, or allow two tablespoonfuls of sugar to the entire mixture. Serve hot, with or without Whipped Cream. It is a mistake to allow chocolate to boil a long time. The basis of Chocolate is sugar and cocoa, and the first gains nothing by boiling, and the second loses its fragrant perfume by evaporation.

In economical households one-half a cup of water is sometimes allowed to three-quarters of a cup of milk in making Chocolate.

COCOA Du Coco.

4 Tablespoonfuls of Cocoa. Set the milk to boil in a farina boiler, and moisten the Cocoa with a little milk, and pour it into the milk just as it begins to simmer, stirring all the while. Let it boil up once, and serve hot, with or without Whipped

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CHAPTER XLIV JELLIES, MARMALADES, Des Confitures, dee Marmalades et des Oonserves. In making jellies, marmalades, or preserves, use only perfectly sound and fresh fruit. Do not cook them long enough to destroy their natural flavor, and seal them while boiling hot in airtight jars, and be careful to fill these even to overflowing, so as to keep all air from the bottle. Then seal quickly. Heat the jar3 before filling, and use a wide mouthed funnel during the process of filling. The large mouthed jars that now come with glass tops are the best. When once the jars are filled, immediately screw on the tops, and put them in a dry, warm place, where here is not the least possibility of the air striking them. After twenty-four hours turn the tops on still more tightly, and set them away in a cool, dark storeroom or closet. The room must not be cold. After six days examine the jars carefully. If there is not the least sign of any air bubbles on the surface, and the liquid seems to have settled perfectly, the fruit is keeping properly. If, on the contrary, there are any air bubbles, the fruit is beginning to ferment, and if the bottle is not opened immediately, it will burst shortly. Take out the fruit, cook it over, prepare the jars again, and return the fruit to them, taking extra precautions to prevent the entrance of any particles of air. In preserving large fruits, always throw them into cold water as soon as they have been pared. Then have ready a pot of clear, boiling syrup and proceed as directed below. Use all surplus juices that exude from berries to make jellies. Never make preserves on a damp, rainy day, and never use fruits that are overripe, or that have been picked in wet weather, as they will sour. In all cases the jars must be entirely full, so as to leave no room for pir, and must be sealed as hot as posaible.

Set the jars in warm water before filling, and let them gradually heat before the hot preserves are put in, else they will crack. Let all bubbles rise to the top, and if you see any in the lower part of the jar, insert a silver fork, which will cause them to rush to the top.

If open jars are used, cover first with thin paraffine, and then with white paper, fastened on with a thick flour paste. Label and set the jars away.

These directions for sealing will hold in making all preserves, marmalades and jellies. Fruit put up in this manner will rarely spoil. -The one great thing to be remembered is to expel all air.

Apple Jelly Gelée de Pommes..

1 Pound of Sugar to Every Pint of Juice. Take pippins or other tart apples, pare them and cut into quarters, put into a preserving kettle, cover with water, and add the grated rind of a lemon, and let them boil to a marmalade. Then.strain the juice, without squeezing, through a clean jelly bag made of flannel, and for every pint of juice add one pound of fine sugar. If the apples are not very tart, add the juice also..

Apricot Jelly Gelée d’Abricots.

To Every Pint of Fruit Juice 1 Pound of Sugar.

Choose apricots that are just ripe, and no more. Pare and cut in two, and take out the stones. Boil the fruit in enough water to cover; strain through a hair sieve, and pour the liquid into earthen dishes. To every Pint of liquid add a pound of sugar. Set on the fire, let it boil twenty minutes, skimming meanwhile, then pour it immediately into cups, glasses or preserve jars, and proceed to seal as

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re e—re—r oe es directed above. This jelly has a most exquisite flavor if the grated rind of an orange is added.

To make apricot syrup. after pressing out the juice put into glass bottles, and add one pound of powdered sugar to every pound of juice, and a little cinnamon. Shake the bottle well until the sugar is melted. Let it stand eight days. Then filter the juice, pour it into bottles, fasten securely, and keep in a cool place.

Cherry juice and all fruit juices are prepared in the same manner. Blackberry Jelly Gelée de Mfree.

1 Pound of Blackberries.

To every pound of blackberries allow a half pound of sugar. Put the berries in a porcelain-lined kettle and cover them with the sugar and let them stand for two hours. Then set over a moderate fire and bring the mixture to the boiling point. Skim while boiling; pour immediately into cups and glasses, and cover tightly and place in a cool, dry place. For Strawberry and _ Blackberry Jelly combined, allow equal parts of the fruits and proceed as above. % Pound of Blue Plum and Damson Jelly Gelée de Pruncs.

1, Pound of Fruit.

% of a Pound of Sugar.

Stone the fruit, whether damsons or plums, and allow three-quarters of a pound of sugar to every pound of fruit. Proceed in exactly the same manner as for Blackberry Jelly. Calf’s Foot Jelly Gelée de Pieds de Veau.

See recipe under chapter on Compotes.

Cherry Jelly Gelée de Cerises.

1 Pound of Cherries.

Stone the cherries and allow half a pound of sugar to every pound of cherries if the cherries are ripe and sour, but a quarter of a pound otherwise. Set over the fire until the heat causes the juice to flow freely, and as for Strawberry or Blackberry Jelly. Currant Jelly Gelée de Groseilles.

To Every Pint of Juice 1 Pound of Pick currants that are fully ripe: clean, wash and boil them. To every pint of juice add one pound of fine white sugar. Let it boil for twenty minutes, always skimming it while on the fire. Do not let it remain longer than twenty minutes, or it will grow dark. Pour immediately into cups. Some boil the currants without the sugar, and then, for every pint of cooked juice, they add the sugar in the proportions given, stirring briskly ull all is absorbed and dissolved; then the jars are filled as quickly as possible, for the preparation jellies at once.

Jellies made in this way are of much lighter color than when the sugar is boiled into them. Currant and Raspberry Jelly Gelée de Groseilles Framboisée. 1 Pint of Fruit Juice.

Take equal parts of currants and raspberries and strain the juice, and proceed as above, allowing one pound of sugar to every pint of berry jutce. To every quart of large red raspberries allow a half pint of currant juice; place in a kettle, add the sugar and bring to a boil, and proceed as directed above.

Lemon Jelly Gelée de Oitron.

4 Lemons. % Can of Gelatine. Grate three or four lemons into a pound of refined sugar, and press out the juice. Then boil one-half a can of Gelatine (see Calf's Foot Jelly) in one quart of water, and, when reduced to one-half the quantity, add the juice of the sugar; now set all to doll on @ very hot fire, and then pour immediately into a porcelain dish; fill the glasses and set in a cool place. Orange Jelly Gelée de Citron, % Can of Gelatine.

ner as for Lemon Jelly.

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Orange Jelly, Creole Style Gelée & VOrange 4 ta Oréole. 6 Louisiana Oranges.

% Box of Gelatine. Sugar to Taste. Extract the juice of the oranges. Soak the gelatine, if prepared, and set the bowl in boiling water till the gelatine melts. Then add the juice of the oranges, and sugar to taste. Strain the jelly through a coarse piece of swiss. Set in a mold to harden. The Creoles have a pretty way of making baskets out of the oranges and serving the jelly in them. With a sharp knife trace out a basket in the skin of the orange, and then gradually loosening the pulp, cut the. orange, without breaking the skin. The orange meat is then used for the jelly, and the baskets are throwr into ice water for an hour. This makes them stiff. When the jelly is hard, it is cut into little squares, and gradually made to fit, Hke blocks, into the baskets. These baskets are placed in a dish, beautifully garnished with delicate buds and greenery, and the effect is charming. Again, the oranges are cut open in this manner. The peel is marked off into eighths and pulled from the upper end of the stem, without separating them so that they open like a beautiful flower. The jelly is piled into this when cool, whipped cream is heaped on the top, a few luscious strawberries are placed in the cream, and thus is made a beautiful and delicious dessert. Try it. Peach Jelly Gelée de Péchea.

1 Pound of Sugar to Every Pint of Fruit Juice, Choose peaches that are just ripe, and no more. Pare, cut in two, and take out the stones. Boil them in water sufficient to cover well, strain through a hair sieve, and pour the decoction into earthen dishes. To every pint of liquid add a pound of sugar. Set on the fire, let it boil twenty minutes, skimming while on the fire. Pour immediately into cups, glasses or preserve jars, and proceed as directed above.

Pear Jelly Gelée de Potres.

1 Pound of Sugar to Every Pint of Liquid.

Choose pears that are just ripe, and no more. Pare and cut in two, and take out the stones. Boil them in water sufficient to cover well, strain thro-gh a hair sieve, and pour the decoction into earthen dishes. --To every pint cf liquid add a pound of sugar. Set on the fire, let it boil twenty minutes, skimming meanwhile. Pour immediately into cups, glasses or preserve jars, and proceed as directed.

Pineapple Jelly Gelée d’Ananas, % Pound of White Sugar to Every Pound of Grated Pineapple. Pare the pineapple, take out the eyes and grate carefully, or pick into fine pieces. To every pound of pineapple allow three-quarters of a pound of white sugar. Put the pineapple and the sugar to boil in a porcelain lined kettle and cook over a moderate fire for ten or fifteen minutes, as directed above. Then proceed to pour into jelly glasses or jars, cover tightly, and set in a cool place.

Quince Jelly Gelée de OCoings.

1 Pound of Sugar _to Every Pint of Fruit Liquid.

Pare and core the quinces, and cut into slices. Boil until well done, which may be determined by running a fork through them. Then strain the Hquor through a flannel bag, and measure it, allowing one pound of white sugar to every pint of juice. Place the whole on a fire in the preserving kettle, and watch closely. Do not let it boil over. Try occasionally on a saucer. When it begins to grow solid it is done. Then proceed to bottle as directed above.

Raspberry Jelly Gelée de Frambotses.

To Every Pound of Berries % Pound of Put the berries in a porcelain-lined kettle, and cover them with the sugar and let them stand’for two hours. Then set over a moderate fire and bring the mixture to a boiling point. Skim while boiling; pour immediately into cups and glasses, cover tightly and place in a cool dry place. Strawberry Jelly Gelée de Fraises.

To Every Pound of Berries a Half Put the berries in a porcelain-lined kettle, cover them with the sugar and

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let them stand for two hours. Then set over a moderate fire and bring the mixture to a boiling point. Skim while boiling; pour immediately into cups and glasses, cover tightly and place in a cool, dry place.

JAMS Dea Marmcladee.

Marmalades are mixtures of fruits reduced to such a consistency that they may be preserved. Ripe fruits, which cannot bear the process of blanching required in preserving whole fruit, are used for this purpose. The beauty and taste of a marmalade depend on the fruits that are used and the quality of sugar, as also upon the care bestowed on the preparation. Directions for Making a Marmalade Always choose ripe, beautiful, luscious fruit. Cut the fruit into small pieces, and then add the sugar and fruit in alternate layers in the preserving kettle, with a layer of fruit on the bottom. Set the kettle over the fire. If the fruit is not very juicy add a small quantity of water to set it to boiling and to extract the juices. As the fruit boils, shake the kettle occasionally by lifting it from the fire, and turn it about briskly to prevent it from burning at the bottom. Never stir with a spoon, as it will be sure to burn. When the whole mixture begins to look very clear, and you see, by testing a portion on a plate, that it is growing thick, it is done. Then take from the fire and put into jars at once. This mode of cooking distinguishes the marmalade from preserves and jellies. Follow these directions implicttly in the succeeding recipes:

Apple Marmalade Marmelade de Pommes.

3% Pounds of Fruit to 2 Pounds of Peel the apples and cut them into quarters, extracting all the seeds. Then throw them into fresh water, sufficient to half cover, and set them on the fire. When they begin to grow soft, mash them with a wooden spoon; then add the sugar; add the grated rinds of several lemons; mix well, and then set all back upon the fire. Stir the mixture while boiling until it is of the proper consistency, and then pour it into jars or glasses. Cherry Jam Marmelade de Ocriscs.

For Every Pound of Cherries % of a Select fine, ripe cherries. Stone theny but be careful not to allow them to lose their juice. Allow threefourths of a pound of sugar for every pound of fruit. Arrange in layers as directed above, set on the fire, and boil till the syrup is very clear and begins to form a jelly when 2 portion is turned upon a plate. Then bottle as directed.

Orange Marmalade Marmelade d’Oranges.

To Every 6 Oranges Allow 2 Lemona To Every Pound of Fruit % of a Select fine, ripe Louisiana oranges. Remove the rind, grate it, and grate the pulp, preserving carefully every particle of juice. Extract the seeds. To every six oranges and juice allow the grated rind and juice of two lemons. Then weigh the whole, and allow for every pound of fruit threefourths of a pound of sugar. Cook the whole, adding, of course, the grated rind of the oranges, and when done turn into jelly. tumblers. Test by turning a portion on a plate. When it begins to jelly, which will be in about twenty-five minutes, the mixture is ready to be turned into the tumblers and sealed.

A marmalade of orange and lemon peel may be made by putting the rinds into a jar of water, and letting them stand for several days. Then drain and grate or pound soft. Allow a half pound of sugar for every pound of pulp. Put in a little water to start it boiling, and let it cook for three-quarters of an hour. Then proceed to turn into jelly glasses. Pear Marmalade Marmelade de Poires.

2 Pounds of Sugar to Every 3% Pounds of Pears.

Peel the pears and cut them into quarters, extracting all the seeds, Then throw them into fresh water, sufficient to half cover, and set them on the fire. When they begin to grow

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soft, mash them with a wooden spoon; then add the sugar; add the grated rinds of several lemons according to taste; mix well, and then set all back upon the fire. Stir the mixture while boiling till it is of the proper consistency, and then pour it into jars or glasses.

Peach Marmalade Marmelade de Péches.

To Every Pound of Peaches % of a Pare and cut into small pieces some nice, ripe peaches, and put them ina preserving kettle, with a layer of fruit and a layer of sugar, alternating till all are used. Cook as_ directed. Watch carefully that they do not burn. When they begin to form a jelly, put away in stone jars or glasses. Apricot and Plum Marmalade are made in the same manner.

Pineapple Marmalade Marmelade d’Ananas.

To Every Pound of Pineapple % of a Pare the pineapple, and remove the eyes. Grate carefully, preserving the juice. Allow three-fourths of a pound of sugar to every pound of the grated fruit, and proceed as directed above. Quince Marmalade Marmelade de Coinge.

For Every Pound of Quince Add % of a Take ripe quinces; cut them into small pieces; steam them in sufficient water to cover them, and let them cook till they can be mashed with a wooden spoon. When well mashed, pour in the sugar, allowing threefourths of a pound for every pound of fruit. Then arrange in layers as directed above and cook until it assumes a bright red color. Test by pouring on a saucer just sufficient to see if it will jelly; when it reaches this degree of consistency, turn it at once into jars or glasses. When cold it will be quite solid.

Raspberry Jam Marmelade de Framboises.

To Every Pound of Raspberries 1 Pound of Sugar.

Select fine, ripe fruit, and weigh, allowing equal weights of fruit and sugar. Proceed to boil as directed. When it begins to jelly, it is ready to be turned into glasses.

Raspberry Jam is very much improved by the addition of a glass of currant juice, cooking all together. Strawberry Jam Marmelade de Fraises.

To Every Pound of Berries 1 Pound of Select fine, ripe strawberries, and weigh, allowing equal weights of fruit and sugar. Proceed to boil as directed. When it begins to jelly, it is ready to be turned into the jelly glasses. Conserve of Grapes Marmelade de Raisina.

To Every Pint of Fruit Juice % Pound of Sugar.

Boil the grapes for one hour, and then press them through a sieve. Add a half pound of sugar to every pint of liquid, and proceed as directed above.

Orange Flower and Rose Conserves Conserve Fleurs d’Oranges et de Roses. 8 Ounces of Rose Water.

2 Ounces of Powdered Orange Petals. This is a delicious Creole Conserve. Take two ounces of powdered orange flower petals, one and one-half pounds of sugar, and eight ounces of rose water. Steep the petals in distilled water, and then add the sugar, and set to heat over a moderate fire. Add the rose water. When it begins to turn to jelly put it into glasses. Violet Conserve Conserve de Violettes.

2 Ounces of Freshly-Gathered Violet Petals, This conserve is made by pounding two ounces of freshly-gathered violet petals, with great care, into a paste, after steeping in distilled water sufficient to soften them. Then add the sugar, in proportion of one and a half pounds, and boil to a flake. Dea Ooneerves.

General Directions for Making The preserving of fruits is very similar to the making of jellies, only in preserving equal quantities of fruit and sugar are used,

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Fruits may be preserved either whole or otherwise. In preserving fruits whole, it is best to prick such fruits as pears, plums and peaches with a needle, so as to give vent to the juice, which would otherwise escape and burst the skin. However, the best way is the old-fashioned one of paring the fruit carefully, either in halves or whole, simply removing the skins and cores. Then make a syrup of one pound of white sugar to each pound of fruit. Let the syrup boil till the fruit looks clear. Or make the syrup by putting it on the fire with water, allowing a half pint of fresh water to a pound of the best white sugar. Stir well and bring to a boil. Let it boil five minutes, when it will begin to bubble and froth. As the froth rises the syrup will become clear. Skim and put it on a very low fire to settle, after which the fruit may be put in.

If the former method is used, take the fruit carefully out of the syrup as soon as possible, taking up as little of the syrup as need be, and then place the fruit in the jars. Let the syrup continue to boil till it becomes very thick, then fill the jars up with it, and when cool close the jars. Use in preference a porcelain-lined kettle. If you use a copper kettle, never allow the preserves, jams or marmalades to cool in the kettle, on account of the virdigris which will be sure to form.

It is absolutely necessary to keep all preserves, marmalades and jellies in a cool (not cold) place that is, perfectly free from dampness or possibility of heat. Heat will cause fermentation, and the preserves will quickly sour. Dampness will make them decompose and mold.

Follow implicitly the above directions, and you will be sure to succeed in making preserves, etc.

Fig Preserves Take the weight in sugar of the quantity of figs to be preserved; the figs must be ripe. Immerse them in cold water for twelve hours; then simmer in water enough to cover them until tender, and spread out upon a sieve to «col and harden. Make a syrup of the sugar, a cup of cold water being allowed for every pound. Boil until clear of scum, put in the figs, and simmer for ten minutes. Take them out and spread upon the dishes in the sun. Add some cut lemons and a little ginger, according to taste; boil the syrup thick, give the figs another boil of fifteen minutes and fill the jars three-quarters of the way uptothetop. Then fill up with boiling syrup, cover, and, when cold, seal up.

Lemon Preserves Conaerres de Cttrons.

1 Pound of Sugar for Every Pound of Lemons.

The Juice of 1 Lemon for Every Pound of Fruit.

A Tablespoonful of Alum for Every Cut the lemon in halves, after paring, and remove the seeds. Then cut it up into a number of thin slices, and put them into a vessel with cold water, adding a tablespoonful of alum to every quart of water, or a little salt. After several hours put the lemon into cool, fresh water, and let it remain an hour, and drain. Then put it into a kettle and cover with two quarts of boiling water. Add the rinds of the lemon or citron, and a few pieces of ginger root. Let all boil till perfectly clear. Then take out the fruit and drain dry. Then prepare a syrup, allowing one pound of sugar for every pound of fruit, and add the juice of a lemon for each pound of fruit. Put the citron or lemon in without any ginger, and allow it to boil for threequarters of an hour. It will become a beautiful, clear amber color. Proceed to bottle or seal in jars immediately.

Peach Preserves Oonserves de Péches.

To Every Pound of Fruit 1 Pound of Prepare the syrup as above directed. Then peel the peaches and cut them into halves, removing the stone. Skim the syrup, and drop in the peaches, one at a time. and let them boil till tender, from fifteen to twenty minutes. They should be so tender that they may be pierced with a broom straw. This is the test. Then remove the kettle from the fire, carefully drain out the peaches and put them in the jars. Then boil the syrup twenty minutes longer, or until it forms a thick syrup, removing the scum as it rises, Pour off any remains

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of thin juice that may have adhered to the peaches in the jar, and fill in with the syrup, and set aside to cool. When cold, screw on the tops of the jars. Label and set away.

Fruit Preserves Conserves de Frutts, To Every Pound of Fruit Allow 1 Pound of Sugar.

Apple, Plum, Damson, Grape, Strawberry, Raspberry, Currant, Scuppernong, Muscadine, Pumpkin, Sweet Potato and other preserves are prepared in the same manner as in the directions given for Peach Preserves, only the berries, such as Strawberries, Blackberries and Raspberries, do not require much cooking. Preserve Cherries whole, stoning and stemming. Pineapple Preserves Conserves d’Ananas.

To Every Pound of Fruit 1 Pound of Pare the pineapple and remove the eyes. Then slice it nicely and weigh it. Allow equal quantities of fine, powdered sugar. Place the fruit in a deep dish and then sprinkle the sugar over it, between the slices, in alternate layers, and let it remain over night. Drain off the syrup in the morning, and put it in a kettle, and when it gets very hot put in the fruit. Let it cook slowly till the slices look very clear, and then skim them out and put them in the jars. Fill to overflowing, and then seal. Quince Preserves Conserve de Coings.

To Every Pound of Fruit 1 Pound of Pare the ripe quinces, and then cut them into slices or rings. Weigh them and put them into the preserving kettle and cover with water. When they are quite tender, pour off the superfluous water, leaving about half a pint to every pound of fruit, and addIng sugar, pound for pound. Let the whole boil till the fruit is tender. Then carefully drain out the fruit and lay it in the jars. Now return the kettle to the fire and let the syrup boil to a jelly. Then fill the jars with it. The jelly will grow clearer and brighter as time goes on, for quinces preserved in this way will keep for years, Orange Preserves Conserve d’Oranges.

To Every Pound of Oranges 1 Pound of Peel the oranges. Then slice nicely and weigh. Allow equal quantites of fine white powdered sugar. Place the fruit in a deep dish, and then sprinkle the sugar over it, between the slices, in alternate layers, and let it remain over night. Drain off the syrup in the morning, and put it in a kettle, and when it gets very hot put in the fruit. Let it cook slowly till the slices look very clear, and then skim them out and put them in the jars. Fill to overflowing and then seal. Small Oranges Preserved Whole Conserves de Petites Oranges. To Every Pound of Oranges 1 Pound of Take small, green, sweet oranges. and pierce them several times with a penknife till very soft. Let them stand for three days in water, which must be fully renewed every day. Put them in a dish after the third day, pour thin clarified sugar over them, and then prepare a syrup as above directed. Add the oranges when it begins to boil, cook till they are tender, and proceed in the usual way. Or the oranges may be taken out, placed on a sieve after the first boiling up of the syrup, and drained and glazed or candied, as crystallized fruit. Watermelon Rind Preserves Conserve d’Ecorces de Melon d@’Eas. To Every Pound of Watermelon Rind 1 Cut the watermelon rind into thin slices, and put them in a bucket of fresh water, in which has been dissolved a teaspoonful of alum for every quart of water. Let them remain several hours, until they grow crisp, and then proceed in exactly the same manner as in the recipe for Citron

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CHAPTER XLV CREOL ANDIES Bonbons et Sucrertes Créoles. Creole Candies occupy a unique position among confections in the United States, and it has often been said that the old French Quarter could apply for a patent for its delicious ‘“‘Pacans ala Créme,” “Pralines Blanches,” ‘‘Pistaches Pralinées,” “La Colle,’’ “Mais Tactac,” “Dragées,”” “Guimauves,” “Pastilles,” “Nougats’ and other exclusive products of the Creole cuisine. The term “Praline” is not of Creole origin, being a common enough word in the vocabulary of the French nation, with whom it means “sugared,” and has no reference whatever to the delightful confections that had their origin in the old homes of New Orleans.

There is, indeed, a traditional recipe of the great Viart, “l’Homme de Bouche,” as he called himself, who tickled the palate of Charles X, in the jocund days of the Bourbon restoration, and another old tradition that the Praline was a species of Dragée, which derived its name from the Maréchal de Plessin-Pralin, who was very fond of almonds, and whose butler one day advised him to have them coated with sugar to avoid indigestion.

Again, there is an old French rhyme of Gresset’s which has become incorporated in the banquette games of the little Creole children of New Orleans, and which runs thus:

“Soeur Rosalie au retour de matines, Plus d’une fois lui porta des pralines.” But all these songs and stories simply refer to any sugar-coated nut. It was reserved for the gentle descendants of these old French ancestral homes to evolve from the suggestiveness of the word “Praline,” dainty and delightful confections that have, for upwards of one hundred and fifty years, delighted many generations in | New Orleans.

White Pralines Pralines Blanches de Coco. 1 Pound of Fine, arate Sugar (Granuated).

1 Freshly Grated Cocoanut (Small Size). Use a farina boiler or a porcelainlined saucepan. Put the sugar in the saucepan, with the water and let it boil well. When it begins to form @ syrup, take from the fire and stir in the freshly grated cocoanut. Mix thoroughly and return to the fire, and let it boil until you can draw it like a thread between your finger and thumb. Be careful to stir constantly from the time you add the cocoanut. In two or three minutes as it begins to bubble, take it off the fre, for this will be sufficient cooking if you wish the praline to be light and flaky. Have ready a cleanly wash and somewhat wet marble slab or buttered dish. Take a kitchen spoon and drop the mixture into cakes on the slab, spreading them out with the spoon and shaping with a fork till they form a neat round cake of about a quarter of an inch in thickness and four or five inches in diameter. Let them dry; and then gently raise them from the slab with a.knife. You will have the dainty white pralines, those peculiar Creole confections which.are ever much sought after by strangers visiting New Orleans.

Increase the quantity of sugar in proportion to the size of the cocoanut, using three pounds of finest white sugar for a very large cocoanut, and never boil the cocoanut more than a few minutes in the sugar.

Pink Pralines Pralines Rose de Coco.

1 Pound of Fine waite Sugar (Granulated).

1 Freshly-Grated Cocoanut (Small Size). 4 Tablespoonfuls of Wa ze) 1 Tablespoonful of Cochineal. ner as above, only add about a table-

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) spoonful of Cochineal to the pralines, just before taking off the fire. Proceed to drop on a marble slab, as above.

Pecan Pralines Pralines auz Pacans.

1 Pound of Brown Sugar.

% wound of Freshly-Peeled and Cut Louisiana Pecans.

1 Spoon of Butter.

Set the sugar to cook, and as it begins to boil add the pecans, which have been well shelled and cleaned and cut some into fine pieces, others into halves and others again into quarters. Let all boil till the mixture begins to bubble, then take it off the stove and spread it out to dry ona marble slab, as above. These pecan pralines are delicious.

Be careful to stir the mixture in the above recipe constantly till the syrup begins to thicken and turn to sugar. Then take from the stove and at once turn it on the marble slab. One pound of unshelled pecans will make a half pound shelled. In using water, add just sufficient to melt the sugar. Pacans @ la Créme.

1 Pound of Pecans.

The Whites of an Hag.

14 Pound of Finest White Confectionery * Peel the pecans in halves, being careful not to break the meat. Then beat the white of an egg very briskly with its weight in water till it forms a cream. Then work in with your fingers the finest white confectionery sugar till it forms a smooth paste. Take a small piece of this paste, roll it, and put it between two halves of the pecans, and then lightly roll in the paste, flattening the pecan somewhat. The coating outside must be very, very light, so that the delicate brown of the pecan meat shows through. Set the pecans to dry, and serve on dainty: china saucers, one for each guest. Almond Pralines Amandes Pralinées.

1 Pound of New Almonds, 1 Pound of Sugar. % Glass of Water.. A Pinch of Carmine.

Peel the almonds whole, and then rub them well with a linen cloth, to take off any dust. Put them into a skillet with a pound: of the finest white sugar, and a dash of Carmine. if you wish to tinge them to a beautiful rose. But they are very beautiful when a snowy white. Place the skillet on the fire, stirring all the time until the almonds crackle hard. Then take off the fire and work until the sugar becomes sandy and well detached from the almonds. Then take out about half of the sugar, and again put the almonds on the fire, stirring them lightly with a spoon as they again pick up the sugar, paying strict attention to the fire, that it be not too quick. When the almonds have taken up this part of the sugar, put in the reserved portion, and continue to parch until every bit of the sugar has been taken up. Then put a piece of paper in a sieve, and throw the almonds upon it, shaking around so as to separate those which still cling together. Each almond must be separate and encrusted with sugar.

Sugared Peanuts Pistaches Pralinées.

1 Pound of Peanuts.

A Pinch of Carmine.

Peanuts, which have been dubbed “Pistaches” by the Creoles, may be made into delightful confections according to the recipe given above for “Amandes Pralinées.”

Peanut Pralines Pralines aqua Peanuts.

1 Pound of Peanuts.

1 Pound of Brown Sugar.

Shell the peanuts and break into bits. Then set the sugar and water to boil, and as it begins to simmer add the peanuts and the butter. Stir constantly and as it bubbles up once take from the fire, pour from the spoon on the marble slab or a buttered plate, and set away to harden.

Molasses Candy Candi Tiré 2 la Mélasee, Louisiana is rightly the home of Molasses Candy, for it was here, in this old city, that sugar was first made in the United States, and molasses, sweet and health-giving, was first given to the world. Here, too, Molasses Candy, or “Candi Tiré,” as the Creoles say, had its origin. “Candi Tiré” parties, or Molasses Candy Pull-

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$28 ings, were pleasurable incidents of the life of the early New Orleans belles and beaux. Take 1 Quart of Louisiana Molasses. 1 Pound of Granulated Sugar. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Vinegar. 4, ‘Leaspoonful of Soda.

‘he ‘Juice of 1 Lemon.

Boll the sugar until it becomes quite thick when dropped into water. Add the molasses and the vinegar and butter. Boil till it hardens when it is tested in cold water. Then stir in a small half teaspoonful of bicarbonate of soda, and pour into buttered tins, and as soon as it begins to cool sufficiently pull till white. Moisten the hands while pulling with ice water or butter. The sticks may be single, twisted, braided or flattened, according MOLASSES PASTE La Colle 2 Pounds of Brown Sugar. Or 1 Pint of Molasses.+ 2 Cups of Louisiana Pecans. “La Colle” is a delightful kind of molasses praline cake that the old negro cake and candy vendors make out of black molasses and pecans or peanuts. These cakes are placed in dainty white paper cases, are dried and sold, to the delight of the children. They are made by taking two pounds of brown sugar, and boiling it down to almost one pint of syrup. To this dark syrup add two cups of pecans, cut or mashed in various irregular sizes. Then, when it becomes so thoroughly boiled that it passes like a thread between the fingers, it is poured into small white paper cases about four inches long and two inches wide, making the cake about a half or quarter of an inch in thickness. These are set to dry, and always find a ready sale everywhere. The cases are made out of white foolscap paper, folded neatly like the ight cover of a box.

Or, take one pint of Molasses and bring to a boil. Throw in some peanuts, and then ‘fill the little paper cases.

Pop-Corn Candy “Tac-Tac.”

1 Cupful of White Sugar.

3 Quarts of Nicely-Popped Corn. Put the butter, water and sugar into a boiler. and cook till it begins to almost run to candy; then throw in the Nicely popped corn; stir vigorously over the fire until the sugar is evenly distributed over the corn; then take the kettle from the fire and stir until it cools a little. In this way you will have each grain or kernel separate and coated with sugar. If you wish, pile it into mounds and roll into balls whil> still hot enough for the grains to adhere. These are put into dainty rolls of tissue paper and sold along the streets of New Orleans. CORN CANDY Mais “Tac-Tac”

1 Pint of Louisiana Molasses. % Pound of Indian Corn (Parched). Boil one pint of Louisiana molasses, and, as it comes to the boiling point, throw in about three-quarters of a pound of. parched Indian corn, parched to a blossom; stir well, and then pour into little paper cases, about five or six inches in length, three in width and one and a half in depth. Let these cool before touching. This is another of the peculiar kinds of candies sold by the old Creole negroes of New Orleans. CARAMELS Caramels, 1 Pound of Clarified Sugar. Sufficient Water to Melt.

Take one pound of clarified sugar and add just sufficient water to melt; boil it till it is very brittle and has the slightest odor as if beginning to burn; then pour it on a buttered slab or plate, and, as soon as it is cool enough to show a finger mark, cut it out with a common case knife into small squares an inch in size, after which glaze with another coating of sugar. Let them dry and keep them tightly closed, as they are easily injured and become soft by contact with the atmosphere.

Chocolate Caramels Caramels au Chocolat.

% Pound of Chocolate.

2 Cups of Suear.

Set the sugar to boil; scrape the chocolate in the milk, and add it to the boiling sugar, and stir in the but-

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gS ter; then boil till it forms a syrup. Turn it out very quickly upon a greased slab or a well buttered dish or pan that is quite square. When it begins to cool, cut it up into very small squares with a case knife and set in a cool, dry place to harden. A ood test as to whether the mixture is done is to drop a little from the end of a spoon into a cup of cold water. If it begins to harden instantly, it is ready to take from the stove. The Cream Chocolate Caramel is made in the same way, only cream is used instead of milk. Again, the Chocolate Caramel may be made simply by dissolving four ounces of chocolate in a little water and adding to a@ syrup made of one pound of sugar. To any of the above recipes, essence of vanilla, orange or lemon may be added, in which case you will. have Vanilla or Orange or Lemon or Cream Caramels. In méedking the Lemon Caramels, however, grate the rind of the lemon with a lump of sugar, and then add to this the lemon juice and water enough to dissolve the sugar. Stir the whole into the boiled Caramel a few minutes before taking from the fire. Orange and Lime Caramel may also be made from the fruits in this manner., Caramcl Oranges Oranges at Caramel.

Peel and quarter the oranges in their natural divisions, being careful not to break through the pith or allow the juice to escape. Then string them on fine wire, or take up on the point of a hatpin and dip into the Caramel. When sufficiently coated, place them in the stove for a few minutes to dry and “'Glacée,” or Glaze. (See recipe under Icings for Cakes, etc.) Caramel Chestnuts Marrone au Caramel.

1 Pound of Chestnuts.

Peel fine large Chestnuts, and transfix them on a hatpin or on small pointed sticks. Dip them in the Caramel, and then dry and Glacée them. (See Glacée under heading Icings for Cakes, etc.) CANDIES BONBONS Candy Drops Paatilles, 1 Pound of Sugar. Water to Dilute. Flavoring Extract to Taste. These are favorite candies with the Creoles,.and very easy to make. They may be of any size, a lozenge, a tablet or a drop, and they may also be of any color. Mash and sift one pound of sugar that has been doubly refined,: first through a coarse and then through a fine sieve. Put in an earthen vessel, and add the flavoring extract, whether of lemon, orange, cinnamon, cloves, rose or violet or vanilla or carmine. Dilute the sugar with a little water. It must not be too thin, or it will run, nor too thick, or it cannot be poured easily, but rather a nice stiff paste. Set the saucepan on the fire, being careful to select a saucepan that has a spout. As soon as the mixture begins to bubble up about the sides of the saucepan stir it once well and take from the fire, and drop it in small lumps through the spout of the saucepan upon sheets of tin, and let it stand two hours to dry. Then put in the stove a few seconds to finish drying. As the pastilles become hard and brilliant, take them out. else they will lose their flavor.

Cream Pastilles Pastilles & la Créme.

1 Pound of Fine White Confectionery jugar.

1 Teaspoonful of Cream of Tartar. Moisten the sugar with the water and set to boil, Add vinegar and Cream of Tartar. Let it boil till brittle. Then take from the fire and add the Lemon Extract. Turn quickly on a wet slab or buttered plates. When it begins to cool, pull till white, and then cut into small squares about a half inch in size.

Orange Pastilles Pastilles a UOrange.

The Strained Juice of 2 Oranges. % Ounce of Orange Sugar.

3% Ounces of Coarse Sugar. To make the orange sugar, rub the rind of the oranges on the sugar and \dry. Then proceed to add the water

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nd and three and a quarter ounces of sugar and flavoring. As soon as it begins to dissolve in the pan take a small wooden spoon and -stir it for a few minutes. Then remove it from the fire, stirring continuously, and drop the pastilles upon a sheet of paper, cutting them off in drops about the size of a pea with a curved piece of wire or a hairpin. When they are quite dry turn the paper upside down, brush the reverse side with a paste brush slightly moistened with water, and shake off the pastilles with the point of a knife upon a dry sieve. Then move the sieve to and fro over a very slow fire, so that all the moisture may be removed from the drops, and keep them in well bottled jars. The above recipe well serve as a guide for all Fruit or Essence Pastilles.

Fruit Pastilles Pastilles de Fruits.

% Ounce of Any Fruit Juice. All pastilles with fruit juices may be made in exactly the same manner as Orange Pastilles. Use one-half an ounce of juice and three and a half ounces of sugar, and add a little more sugar if it appears liquid after taking from the fire.

Ginger Pastilles Pastilles de Gingembre.

% Ounce of Lemon Juice.

1 Teaspoonful of Essence of Jamaica Ginger.

Proceed in the same manner as for Orange Pastilles.

Rose Pastilles Pastilles & la Rose.

1 Ounce of Water.

4 Drops of Essence of Roses. 3 Drops of Cochineal.

Proceed in the same manner as for Orange Pastilles.

Marshmallow Drops Tablets de Guimauve.

% Pound of White Gum Arabic. 1 Teaspoonful of Extract of Vanilla. Dissolve the Gum Arabic in one pint of water and strain, and add onehalf pound of the finest white sugar, and place over the fire, stirring constantly all the time until the syrup is dissolved. Then gradually add the froth. Stir up the mixture until it becomes thin and does not adhere to the fingers. Then flavor with the vanilla and drop in rather small tablets upon a sheet dusted with powdered starch. Make the shape of the tablets slightly convex, and in two hours remove from the papers, dry for a few minutes in the stove and put away for use, Peppermint Drops Paatilles a la Menthe.

1 Cupful of Sugar.

% Teaspoonful of Essence of Peppermint. A Pinch of Cream of Ta: Crush the sugar very fine, and boil for five minutes with water just sufficient to moisten. Then take from the fire, and add the Cream of Tartar, and after mixing well add the Essence of. Peppermint. Beat briskly until the mixture begins to whiten well, and then drop upon white paper and dry in the open air. If it sugars before all is dropped add a little water and boil again for two minutes.

NOUGAT Nougat.

10 Ounces of Sifted Sugar. 1 Pound of Shredded Almonds, Dried. A Few Drops of Essence of Vanilla. Put the almonds on a baking sheet or plate in the slowest of ovens Let them heat through and through. In the meantime, put the sugar ina pan or porcelain-lined saucepan, and set it on a moderate fire. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon until it begins to melt. Then quicken the stirring, and as soon as the sugar begins to form upon the surface in small white bubbles, like pearls, immediately throw in, the almonds. Stir all gently until thoroughly mixed, and then pour out on a wet marble slab, and flatten to one-sixth of an inch in thickness. As soon ‘as it begins to thicken, cut into pieces of about three inches long and two wide, or, better still, if you‘ have fancy molds, line them thinly with the Nougat, having previously slightly buttered them on the inside. Cut the edges of the Nougat even and level before it becomes cold, for then it is brittle, and breaks easily.

A very charming and elegant Creole dessert is to take a dozen or so of the Nougats, form them into baskets with an ornamental Caramel

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a $31 eS handle, and fill each little basket with whipped cream with two strawberries on top. Serve cold.

Parisian Nougats Nougate & la Parisienne.

8 Ounces of Scalded or Split Pistachio Kernels. 6 Ounces of Sugar. A Few Drops of Prepared Cochineal. Boil the sugar till brittle, and then add the Pistachio Kernels or Peanuts and the Cochineal. Add the flavoring and mix gently. Then pour the Nougat out on a marble slab, slightly buttered. Flatten it out by rolling with a hard lemon slightly rubbed with butter to prevent sticking. Roll to about one-sixth of an inch in thickness, and before it cools sprinkle all over with small heaps of granulated sugar, and a few seeded raisins or well cleaned currants. Press these lightly in with the fingers, and then divide the sheets of Nougat while hot into small diamond shapes about two and a half inches long and one in width..

COMFTTS DRAGEES Almonds enter very largely into the composition of Dragées, as also Gum Arabic. Dissolve the Gum Arabic in a saucepan with enough water to color it, and then set the saucepan over a moderate fire. Stir in the mixture of candy a liquid extract, whether of Vanilla, Peppermint, Lemon, etc., and then mix thoroughly till the solution is complete. Strain through a sieve, and then, with a wire shaped like a hairpin, cut the candy preparation into the tiniest pieces of various sizes and shapes, put them to cool on a marble slab which has been oiled with butter or wet, and after an hour or so set in the oven for a few minutes. In case they are not beautifully polished, give them another light coating with the solution of Gum Arabic. The next day give them a finer polish by putting them into a basin with a little solution of sugar and rose water and a little starch, allowing one part of starch to six of sugar. Swing the basin back and forth high over a very moderate fire, and continue until the Dragées are quite dry.

In making the Dragées use the proportions given for Pastilles. Sugar Plums Dea Dragécs Sucrées.

2 Pounds of Best Confectionery Sugar. Sufficient Water to Dissolve. = 1 Pound of Any Fruit.

Sugar Plums, or crystallized fruits, are among the daintiest preparations of the Creole cuisine. They are the real “‘Bonbons” so highly prized by all Creoles, To crystallize fruits or candies in small quantities, take two pounds of the best sugar, and add sufficient water to dissolve it or to start it boiling. Let it boil to a syrup. Place the fruit to be crystallized in a pan, and pour over, the syrup. Turn the fruit HNghtly by shaking the pan till every side is coated, and set to cool. When cool, pour off the syrup and set the pans on their sides, so that the syrup may be well drained off, and every side be coated with the crystallized mixture. It is always best to pour the syrup over the fruit while it is warm, as it takes a firmer hold and makes a brighter crystal, for it will not hurt the fruits if the crysta warms them enough to make ther very soft, as they will be all righ< when everything is cool.

Fruits and almond paste bonbons should always be softened by the hot syrup, and it is always best to prepare the fruits two days in advance so they will be sufficiently soft for a light crystal to form on them. Chocolate and other bonbons may be crystallized in the same way. Crystallized Oranges Oranges Cristallisées.

Sufficient Water to Dissolve. Crystallize oranges in quarters, keeping the skins from being punctured. Cherries, Strawberries and other berries are crystallized whole, Peaches and Apricots in halves, and so on.

Crystallized Orange Blossoms Fleurs d’Oranges Cristallisées. Pick the petals one by one from the flowers, and put them into water. Drain this off, and then squeeze the flowers with your hands to bruise them, and drain on a sieve. Make a fine syrup, equal in bulk to the flowers, clarify it and add the flowers. Let

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the syrup boil up about seven times. Then remove it from the fire and let it stand till the sugar forms a coating all around the petals. Then drain them, separate them on a paper for an hour or so, till perfectly dry, and then put in boxes lined with white paper, and keep in a cool, dry place. Crystallized Violets Violettes Cristallisécs.

1 Pound of Violet Petals, Freshly | Gathered.

ner as for Orange Blossoms, only do not squeeze the petals in your hands. These are among the daintiest of confections, and while they are very dear when purchased, they may be easily prepared at home.

Crystallized Rose Petals Feutlles de Rosca Cristallisées. A Pound of Rose Petals.

Select beautiful red or pink rose petals that have been freshly gathered, and proceed in exactly the same manner as for Crystallized Violets. Crystallized Watermelon Melon d’Eau Cristallisé.

Take the bright red heart of the watermelon. Cut into dainty and fanciful forms, and place in a dish in the sun to dry. Make a syrup as ‘directed above for Crystallized Fruits and with the point of a long hatpin or hairpin immerse the watermelon in it. Hang to dry from these points and you will have a beautiful crystallized fruit, the dainty pink and red of the melon showing through the transparent crystal icing. This is a beautiful confection for “red teas,’’ “pink dinners,” etc., where red or pink predominates in the decorations. Cream Bonbons Bonbons @ la Créme.

2 Pounds of the Finest White Icing 2 Ounces of Gum Arabic.

1 Gill of Any Essence Desired. These bonbons are prepared by soaking two ounces of Gum Arabic in a gill of hot water, and then using two pounds of the icing sugar, the whites of two eggs, a few drops of essence, and any icing, whether of Chocolate, Coffee, Orange Flower or Lemon, according to taste. The soaked gum must be strained through a piece of muslin bag into a bowl, amd the essence added to it, and then it must be filled in with as much icing as it will hold, till it forms a stiff yet elastic body. Then fill a biscuit forcer with the vanilla preparation mentioned above, and push it through upon a sheet of paper well dredged with sugar. As the cream is forced through. cut it off into pieces of about the size of a filbert. Place them in the baking pan in the oven for a few minutes, merely to dry their surfaces. and then dip these white balls into the chocolate icing, holding one at a time on the tip of the fork, so as to be able to turn it all around, and ice each part. Then put them on a wire tray, and set to dry in the oven for about ten minutes.

Chocolate Cream Bonbons Bonbona @ la Créme de Chocolat. 2 Pounds of Finest White Icing Sugar. 2 Ounces of Gum Arabic.

4 Ounces of French Chocolate. Soak two ounces of the purest Gum Arabic in a gill of hot water, then add two full pounds of the finest icing sugar, and the whites of two eggs. The soaked gum must be strained through a piece of muslin bag into a bowl, and the essence added to it, and then it must be filled in with as much icing as it will hold, till it forms a stiff, elastic body. If it is desired to make Chocolate Creams, dissolve four ounces of French Chocolate with about a tablespoonful of water, and incorporate this with the whites of two eggs of Royal Icing. (See recipe.) Then fill a biscuit forcer with the vanilla preparation mentioned above cnd push it through upon a sheet of paper, well dredged with sugar. As the cream is forced through, with a small knife cut it off into pieces of about the size of a filbert. Place them in the baking pan in the oven for a few minutes, merely to dry their surfaces, and then dip these white balls into the Chocolate Icing, holding one at a time on the tip of the fork, so as to be able to turn it all around, and ice each part. Then put them on a wire tray, and set to dry in the oven for about ten minutes,

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Orange Cream Bonbons Bonbons 2 la Créme d’Orange. 1 Ounce of Orange Su~ar.

% Gill of Orange Flower Water. For Orange Flower Bonbons work the orange sugar, using one ounce, with the whites of the eggs, and make a Royal Icing. (See recipe.) Then work the gum, Orange Flower Water, using half a gill, and the icing sugar into a stiff paste, and proceed as in «*hocolate Creams, finally covering with the Royal Icing, the white cream forming the interior of the Bonbons and the orange or yellow the outside. Cream Peanuts Pistaches @ la Créme.

1 Pound of Fine White Sugar. 1 Teacupful of Water.

1 Tablespoonful of Extract of Vanilla. % Pound of xeanuts, Shelled. Boil the sugar and water till it comes to a thread. Flavor highly with extract of vanilla. Then take from the fire and stir until it is a creamy white. Throw in the peanuts. Prop in a little white granulated sugar. Then put them on a table on a piece of white paper. and shake well till each stands apart. Roll again lightly in white powdered or granulated sugar, and let them dry. LOZENGES Des Pastilles.

1% Pounds of Finest White Icing Sugar. 2 Ounces of Gum Tragacanth. 2 Ounces of Tepid ater.

In making lozenges take one ounce of Gum Dragon or Gum Tragacanth, and soak it in two ounces of tepid water for about six hours. Then squeeze and,wring out through a cloth, and add about a pound and a half of fine icing sugar and the desired essence and flavor the lozenges in the proportion of about two ounces of easence to the quantities above given. If peppermint flavor is desired, use one teaspoonful. Then work this prepared gum on a marble slab, as you would knead dough, until it is firm and white, yet elastic. Gradually work in the sugar and add the essence and work till smooth and very elastic. Then roll the paste out with fine sugar dredged on the slab, and cut into dime-sized pieces, and also into diamond shapes. Place them in rows upon sugar-powdered baking sheets and dry in the oven. They must be kept in a well stopped jar in a cool place. Orange, Clove, Lemon and Cinnamon Pastilles are all made in the same way.

Cough Lozenges Pastilles pour la Toua.

This book would not be complete without giving this famous old Creole Cough Lozenge. Take 1 Ounce of Gum Dragon.

2 Ounces of Orange Flower Water. 2 Pounds of Fine Sugar Icing. 50 Drops of Paregoric.

20 Drops of Ipecacuanha.

1% Ounces Syrup of Squills. Work the gum on the slab with about one-third of the sugar, and then work in gradually the syrup of squills. After working well add the rest of the sugar and again work. Lastly add the Parcgoric and the Ipecacuanha. Then proceed to finish these old-fashioned lozenges in the manner directed in the general recipe given above. * Sugar as Employed in Candy Making Du Sucre.

As mentioned above, always select the best granulated loaf sugar for making candies. Beware of glucose. As a general rule, loaf sugar will do for all candy making wtthout clarification. Brown or yellow sugars are used for Caramels, dark Pralines and pulled Molasses Candy generally. Sugar is boiled more or less, according to the kind of candies one wishes to make. It is absolutely necessary to understand the proper degree of boiling if you wish to be successful in your efforts in making fine candies at home. The degrees are respectively, “The Small Thread.” “The Large Thread,” “Blow,” “Soft Ball,” “Hard Ball,” “Crack” and “Carmel.” The following carefully prepared recipes will prove invaluable to the amateur: Sugar Boiling Le Cuisson du Sucre.

To every three pounds of sugar allow a pint of water. Put to boil on a brisk fire, skim very carefully and wash on the sides with a hair brush dipped in water to prevent the sugar from graining.

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Small Thread Le Petit Lissé.

Dip the forefinger into iced water, and then into the boiling sugar, and instantly again into the iced water, to prevent burning the finger. Then pinch the index finger and thumb together. If a small easily broken thread forms, the right degree of cooking has been reached.

Large Thread Le Grand Liesé.

Boll the sugar.a little longer, and then try as before; if a thread forms that can be pulled two inches without breaking, it has been cooked enough. This is the best degree for preserves, etc.

The Pearl La Grande et la Petite Perle. Let the sugar boil a little longer. If you find that on drawing it out to a thread it snaps quickly, and also that while boiling it has bubbles almost like large pearls or globules on its surface, you will know it has reached the small pearl degree. When the pearls become closely connected on the surface of the sugar, it has reached the large pearl degree. The Blow Le Souffié, Continue boiling, and after a few minutes dip the skimmer in the boiling sugar. Strike it on the edge of the boiler. Blow through the holes, and you will find that if the sugar is of the right degree, it will form many small globules or air bubbles on the other side. This is the best degree for creams, and also gives a rich flavor to Preserves.

The Feather La Plume.

Boil up the sugar a little longer, dip the skimmer in it, and on finding that it shivers into a thready fringe from the edge, you, will have what is called the “Feather.” If the threads are large and stiff, it is called the “Large Feather” or “La Grande Plume.” In a few minutes more they will have become small and flaky, when the “Small Feather,” or “La Petite Plume,” is reached. The Soft Ball Le Petit Boulet.

Keep the sugar boiling. Dip the finger into iced water and then into the boiling sugar and immediately into the water again. If the sugar has enough consistency to form a small ball when rolled between the finger and the thumb, it has been *cooked enough.

The Hard Ball Le Grand Boulet.

Continue the test, and if a firmer ball is formed, this degree is reached The Crack or Snap Le Caseé.

Continue boiling, and dip the finger after a few moments in iced water and then in the boiling sugar, and instantly in the water again. The proper degree is reached when the sugar is placed between the fingers, and will not stick, or when distended it snaps hard and dry. The first degree is called ‘Little Crack,” or “Le Petit Cassé," and the second is called “The Big Crack,” or “Le Grand Cassé.” This is a good degree for Les Fruits Glacés, etc.

Caramel Caramel.

Continue boiling till the sugar becomes a light brown color. Then take it off immediately, or it will burn. Any boiling beyond this renders the sugar calcined and barely fit for cooking purposes. On taking the pot from the fire, set it at once in cold water to prevent the sugar from burning. To Clarify Sugar.

Du Sucre Clarifé.

The White of 1 Egg.

In clarifying sugar for Candies, take the whole white of an egg for brown sugar and half the white for refined

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repr eee aj——_— sugar. Beat to a froth in a dish with about a cupful of water, adding it by degrees, Then put about eight pounds of sugar into a kettle, and dilute it with the half of the beaten egg. Let it become very thick. Set it over the fire, and let it boil up twice before you skim it. Then skim and continue to add the egg by degrees, until the gscum is perfectly white. Take the skimmer from the sugar, add another cup of cold water, to carry off any remaining scum, take it from the fire and strain. The sugar is then kept for use.

COLORING FOR CANDIES Candies may be colored beautifully with such harmless preparations as Cochineal, Carmine (when properly prepared), Spinach, Indigo, Saffron or Burnt Sugar.

Cochineal Cochenille.

Take one ounce of powdered Cochineal, one ounce of salts of tartar, one ounce of burnt alum, two ounces of Cream of Tartar, twelve ounces of sugar, and two quarts of soft water. Boil the water in a porcelain-lined vessel, and add the other ingredients. Remove from the fire, and then strain at once through a sieve or cloth, and bottle for use..

Carmine Carmin.

2 Gallons of Water.

3 Drams of Powdered Alum.

2 Drams of Bismuth.

2 Drams of Nitro-Muriate of Tin. 2 Dramas of Nitric Acid.

Carmine is made by pulverizing Cochineal in a stone mortar and putting it into water at nearly a boiling point. One ounce of Brazil wood, obtained from the druggist, and one ounce of powdered Cochineal are put into separate vessels with one quart of water each. The Cochineal is always put in the water in a linen rag. To make half a pound of the Carmine used so extensively in Creole homes, simply pound the Cochineal in a mortar, add two gallons of water, and let it boil for an hour and a quarter. Then add about three drams of nitro-muriate of tin, made by taking two drams of nitric acid, two drams of muriatic acid and one dram of bismuth, and dissolving under a gentle heat. Continue boiling the Cochineal ten minutes longer, then strain the mixture through a fine cloth, and let it stand for eighteen hours. Pour off the water, and add the solution of tin, in three pints of water, and let it stand for five days longer, changing the water every twenty-four hours. When free from any taste or smell the Carmine has been sufficiently washed, and is ready for use.. Put into china saucers and dry in the stove.

Green (Spinach) Vert (Epinards).

1 Pound of Young Spinach.

A Few Grains of Powdered Alum. Mash a pound of young Spinach to a pulp, and then carefully squeeze all the juice out of it. Set it to boil, and the moment it begins to curdle remove from the fire, and strain all the juice from it. Then add to the curd the same weight in sugar, a few grains of powdered alum, and a little alcohol, and bottle for use. Keep in a cool place.

Yellow (Saffron).

Jaune (Safran).

3 Ounces of Saffron.

1 Ounce of Alum. 20 Ounces of Sugaf. Take three ounces of Saffron, one ounce of powdered alum, twenty ounces of sugar, and one pint of water, and boil all together. Strain and add a little alcohol, and bottle for use.

1 Ounce of Yellow (Saffron). 1 Ounce of Cochineal.

This color is obtained by mixing equal quantities of yellow and red (Cochineal).

Burnt Sugar Sucre Brité, 1 Pound of Granulated Sugar. Set one pound of granulated sugar on the fire, and stir it well with a wooden spoon until thoroughly dissolved and burnt black. Add one quart of water, and let it boil until thoroughly dissolved. Reduce to half the quantity and strain and bottle for use. To make colored sugar, add a little coloring and mix thoroughly. Then dry in an oven, and keep in a jar.

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Vanilla Sugar Sucre @ la Vanllle.

2 Pounds of Loaf Sugar.

3 Vanilla Beans.

Cut three vanilla beans into shreds. Let them dry, and then mash them with about two pounds of fine loaf sugar. When reduced to a very fine powder, sift, put in a jar and cork tight.

Lemon Sugar Sucre au Citron.

The Rind of 3 Lemons.

1 Pound of Loaf Sugar.

Grate the thin, outer rinds of the lemons on pieces of loaf sugar, and then set to dry. When dry, pound very fine, sift, and put in a jar and cork tight. Orange Sugar is prepared in the same manner.

CHAPTER XLVI Rl -CANNING OR PI Conecrration des Substances Alimentaires et Végétales. The best method of pickling, and the surest, is to put the substance to be pickled in a glass bottle or a tin can that has been hermetically sealed, ond subject it.to a temperature ranging from 80 to 100 degrees, in a water bath, or ‘“‘bain-marie,” always having been very careful to eliminate all air from the vessel before sealing it. The great success of canning and preserving is to exclude the air and to can while hot, filling each jar to the brim. Have your jars in a pan of hot water on the stove. Roll them in the hot water, and then fill immediately to the top with the hot bofling fruit or vegetables. Have the tops of the jars ready and heated, and seal quickly, screwing them down a little tighter and tighter as the ingredients cool and the glass consequently contracts. Keep the jars ina cool, dark place.

Attention to a few rules will make it possible for each housekeeper, especially the Louisiana country housewife, to put up all her own goods, whether of vegetables or fruits or pickles.

Canned Corn Du Mais en Conserve.

8 Quarts of Corn, 1 Tablespoonful of Lard to Each Quart of Corn.

Boll the corn on the cob until no milk will exude if the grains are pricked with a needle. Then cut the corn off the cob, and pack into cans or stone jars, putting first a layer of salt half an inch deep and then a layer of corn two inches deep, and continuing with these alternate layers until the jar is nearly filled. The top layer must be of salt, and about an inch thick. Pour over all this melted lard in proportion of about a tablespoonful to a quart of the corn. Set on the fire, in a bain-marie, and let all the bubbles come to the surface. Take off, stick a silver fork down into the jar, to see that all bubbles have ceased to form. Seal hermetically, and then set in a bain-marie, at a temperature of from 80 to 100 degrees, and let it cool. Keep in a cool place, and use as wanted. Canned Tomatoes Des Tomates en Conserves.

8 Dozen Tomatoes.

A Bain-Marie.

Pour boiling water over the Tomatoes to loosen the skins. Then peel them fully, and bring to a hard boil for twenty minutes. Then drain and can as quickly as possible, excluding all air. Set in a bain-marie to cool, and keep in a cool, dark place. Canned Mushrooms Des Champignons en Conserrc. 8 Quarts of Mushrooms.

Cook the mushrooms for threequarters of an hour in salted water, drain lightly and can them, excluding

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all air. Stand in the “‘bain-marie,” letting them cool gradually. Keep in a cool place.

Canned Green Peas Des Petits Pois en Conserve. 1 Dozen Quarts of Green Peas. Select the youngest and most tender peas, put them in boiling water, and let them cook for about thirty minutes. Drain lightly, and can immediately, excluding all air.

Other vegetables may be canned in almost the very same manner. PICKLES Des Cornichona.

Pickles should not be made in vessels of brass, copper or tin, and should always be put up in glass bottles or hard stoneware. Only the best vinegar should be used and it should be scalded before it is put with pickles, otherwise it will not keep well. This is a fact that must be remembered if you would be successful.

In sour pickles use only the best cider vinegar. Never boil it, but simply bring it to the boiling point, before you pour it over the pickles. Always add a small piece of alum to Cucumber or Gherkin Pickles, if you wish them to be a beautiful green and very crisp.

Never use any but a wooden spoon in putting up pickles, and be careful in the use of spices, so that no one flavor will predominate, but that all will unite in a most agreeable whole. Pickles must be kept in a cool, dark place, and always well covered with The jars should be examined at frequent intervals. If white specks make their appearance in the vinegar, draw it off, scald and add, if the pickles are sweet, two tablespoonfuls of sugar and a few cloves.

Sweet Pickles Cornichons Sucrés.

100 Small Cucumbers.

3 Dozen Black Pepovers.

1 Dozen Allspice.

1 Dozen Blades of Mace.

3 Dozen Cloves.

1 Galion of Bolling Vinevar. “Vash the Cucumbers, selecting nice small ones, about as long as a finger. Cover them with a very strong brine, put a cover on the jar, and let them stand for about three days. Then take them out and.throw away the brine, rejecting all the pickles that have become soft in the process. Put them in a pot of fresh water, and add a little powdered alum, allowing about a quarter of a teaspoonful, or a piece about half the size of a bird’s egg, to one gallon of liquid. Put a close lid over the boiler, and steam well, without letting them boil, for about four or five hours. To one hundred small cucumbers or a gallon, allow three dozen black peppers, one dozen blades of mace, three dozen cloves, one dozen allspice, all whole, and one cup of sugar. Boil five minutes. Place the pickles in jars, and pour over them the boiling vinegar. These pickles must then be corked closely. Three days later draw off all this vinegar, boil again, and again pour it over the pickles. Repeat this operation three times, at intervals of about three or four days. Then cover with a stout cloth, cork with a wooden or cork stopper. and in about two months the pickles will be ready for use. Examine from time to time.

Sour Pickles Cornichons au Vinaigre.

100 Small Cucumbers.

A Bolling Brine. 24 Whole Spices. 1 Ounce of Mustard Seed.

12 Small Red Pepoers.

6 Blades of Mace.

8 Cloves. 2 Onions.

Put about 100 small Cucumbers in a jar. Cover them with very strong, boiling brine. Let them stand for several days. Then take them out of the brine, wipe them well, and place them in clean jars. Add two dozen whole spices, one ounce of mustard seed, and six blades of mace, eight cloves, two chopped onions and the red peppers. Cover them with boiling vinegar and cork. In several weeks they will be ready for use. If you wish the pickles to be very green, put them into cold vinegar, and let them heat slowly till they are green; or, after their fourth day in the brine, pour this off and line the bottom of an agate kettle with fig and grapevine leaves, put the cucumbers in, with a small piece of alum, cover them closely with the vine leaves, and pour in cold water sufficient almost to fill the kettle.

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n rd Cover tightly with an inverted pan or a dish, and let them steam slowly for four or five hours, till they are green. Now take them out of the kettle, drain, season as above, pour over them boiling vinegar, boil for five minutes, and bottle them for future use.

Home-Made Chow-Chow Varientes @ la Moutarde.

1 Head of Cauliflower.

% Head of Cabbage, Cut as for Slaw. 1 Quart of Tiny Cucumbers, the Very Smallest Kind.

1 Quart of Small Button Onions. 2 or 3 Pods of Green and Red Peppers, Chopped Fine.

% Pound of French Mustard. % Teacupful of Celery Seed. 1 Teacupful of Horseradish. 1 Whole Garlic, Minced Very Fine. 1 Pint of String Beans.

1 Gill of Salad Oil.

% Gallon of Vinegar.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Mustard Seed. 1 Cupful of Brown Sugar.

% Ounce of Tumeric.

Shred the cabbage as for cold slaw, and cover the bottom of a stone jar with the cucumbers and the cabbage. Then cover with a brine of salt and water strong enough to float an egg. Let this stand for twenty-four hours. At the end of that time boil the cauliflower, the onions and the beans in separate pots till tender. Then drain off all water. Mix them with the cucumbers and the cabbage. Put the vinegar into a porcelain-lined kettle, and let it come to a boil. Add the mustard seed, the celery seed, the grated horseradish, the minced garlic and the pepper pods, cut fine. Let all boil for about five minutes, stirring constantly till it begins to thicken. Then add the sugar and make a paste of the Tumeric, the mustard and the salad oil, moistening with a little cold vinegar, and put it in the mixture. Stir well and pour while boiling hot over the vegetables, Put it away in stone jars, and in about ten days it will be ready for use.

Pickled Cauliflower Chour-Fleura Confits au Vinaigre. 3 Dozen Cauliflowers.

To Each Quart of Vinegar 2 Teaspoonfuls of Mustard and Half a Cup of White Sugar Boil the Cauliflower for about twenty minutes in salt and water; then remove, drain, and break up carefully, and let them get cold. Pack in a jar and pour over them hot Spiced Vinegar (see recipe), which you have strained, after having first stirred in each quart of vinegar two teaspoonfuls of French mustard and a half cup of white sugar. Cover the Cauliflower well with the mixture and bottle tight. Mixed Pickles Variantes.

1 Head of Cauliflower.

% Head of Cabage, Cut as for Slaw. 1 Quart of Tiny Cucumbers, the Very Smallest Kind.

1 Quart of Small Button Onions. 2 or 3 Pods of Green and Red Peppers, Chopped Fine.

% Pound of French Mustard. % Teacupful of Celery Seed. 1 Teacupful of Grated riorseradish. 1 Whole Garlic, Minced Very Fine. 1 Pint of String Beans.

1 Gill of Salad Oil.

¥% Gallon of Vinegar.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Mustard Seed. 1 Cupful of Brown Sugar.

% Ounce of Tumeric.

Boil till very tender young cauliflower heads, small onions, peppers. cucumbers cut in dice, nasturtiums and string beans, in the proportions given above. Drain very dry, and pack in wide-mouthed bottles. Boil in one pint of cider vinegar, one tablespoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of mustard seed and spices. Pour this on the pickles, mix, and seal carefully. Green Pepper Pickles Piments Verts Confits au Vinaigre. 2 Dozen Green _ Peppers.

1 Dozen Red Peppers.

% Large Head of Cabbage.

3 Tablespoonfuls of Mustard Seed. 1 Teaspoonful of Ground Cloves. 1 Tablespoonful of Ground Allspice.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Salt.

Cut the tops from the peppers and remove the seeds. Then put a teaspoonful of salt into each pepper, cover with cold water, and soak for twenty-four hours. Chop the cabbage very fine, and mix well with the ground spices, mustard seed and salt. When thoroughly blended stuff the peppers with this mixture. Then put on the tops, stand them upright in stone jars, and cover with cold vinegar. In handling the peppers use a napkin or gloves, as they will blister the hands,

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"WHE PICAYUNE CREOLE COOK BOOK Green Tomato Pickles Fomates Verts Confits au Vinaigre. 1 Peck of Green Tomatoes, 1 Dozen Onions. 1 Ounce of Cloves. 1 Ounce of Mustard Seed.

1 Tablespoonful of White Mustard eed.

1 Cupful of Salt.

12 Teaspoonful of Red Pepper, or the Pods Cut Into Strips.

1 Ounce of Cloves.

1 Ounce of Black Pepper.

Slice the tomatoes and the onions. Then put a layer of tomatoes and a layer of onions, sprinkle over with salt, and continue till all are used up. Let them stand over night. In the morning drain off all the liquor that has accumulated, and put the vegetables into a porcelain-lined pot with all the other ingredients, and cover with two quarts of vinegar. Let all simmer gently for a quarter of an hour, and then put away in stone jars, letting the vinegar cover the pickles.

This recipe is for Sour Green Tomato Pickles. The Sweet Green Tomato Pickles are made by adding one cup of sugar to the above ingredients. Pickled Mangocs Mangos Confits au Vinaigre. 24 Pepper Mangoes or Young Melon Mangoes or Muskmelons.

A Piece of Alum the Size of a Pecan. ¥% Pound of Ginger.

% Ounce Each of Black Pepper, Mace, Allspice, Turmeric.

% Pound of Garlic.

2 Pint of Grated Horseradish. % Pint Each of Black and White Mustard Seed.

# Teacupful of the Best Olives. Head of Fine Young Cabbage. 4 Green Tomatoes.

Take two dozen Pepper Mangoes or young Muskmelons that are no larger than an orange. Let them lie for two weeks in a brine strong enough to float an egg. Then soak them in pure water for two days, changing the water each day. Remove the seeds by cutting a slit down the side of the Mangoes, but do not take the meat out. Rinse in cold water. Puta layer of green grape leaves in a kettle, and put on this a layer of Mangoes, and ‘then a layer of leaves, and so continue tiN all are used up. Let the top layer be of grape leaves. Now add a piece of alum about the size of a pecan, and pour vinegar over the mixture, and let all boil for fifteen or twenty minutes. Then take out the leaves, and let the Mangoes remain in this vinegar for five or six days. Prepare a stuffing of half a pound of ginger, cut into very small pieces and soaked in brine for two days; one-half an ounce each of black pepper, mace, allspice, Turmeric; one-quarter of a pound of garlic, which has been soaked in brine for twenty-four hours and dried; a half pint of grated horseradish, and a half pint each of black and white mustard seed. Bruise all the spices well till fine, and mix them with a half teacupful of the best olive oil. Take a half head of fine solid cabbage, and chop fine; add a half pint of finely chopped onions, a few small cucumbers, and a few green tomatoes, which have lain in brine overnight. Drain all well and then select any imperfectly shaped mangoes, or any that have become too soft to stuff, and chop these fine with the spices; mix all this stuffing well together, and stuff the mangoes, Tie them with pieces of twine, or sew them up, put in a stone jar, and pour over them the very best cider vinegar. Set them in a dry place and cover well. At the end of a month add a pound and a half of brown sugar, and bottle them for use. This preparation will keep for two years, Pickled Onions Oignons au Vinaigre.

100 Small Onlon Buttons.

1 Tablespoonful of Allspice. 1 Tablespoonful of Black Pepper and 1 Red Pepper Pod to Each Pint of 1 Dozen White Pepper Corns. 1_Dozen Cloves.

4 Blades of Mace.

Select the smallest white button onions. Remove the outer skin, and then remove the inner skin with a silver knife. Steel will blacken the onions. Pack them in well washed and carefully dried jars. Then pour over the onions, a strong brine, and let them.-stand for twenty-four hours. At the end of this time pour off this brine and add another, and let them — stand twenty-four hours longer. On the fourth day make another strong brine, and let it come to a boil, then throw in the onions, and let them boil just five minutes. Then soak them in very cold water for several hours. After three hours drain off the water and pack closely in jars, allowing one tablespoonful of black pepper and a red pepper pod to every pint of vinegar. While packing the onions,

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340 ’ intersperse them with white pepper corns and the spices, with an occasional piece of mace or cloves. Fill the jars with the scalding vinegar, and cork or bottle while very hot. If you desire the pickles to be slightly sweet, allow a tablespoonful of sugar to every pint of vinegar. After three weeks they will be ready for use, but, like all pickles, will be better if allowed to stand a month or two.

Pickled String Beans Haricote Verts Confite.

To'Every 7 Pounds of Beans Allow 1 - Quart of Best Cider Vinegar. 1 Teaspoonful of Alum.

1 Ounce of Cloves.

6 Red Pepper Pods.

Cut the ends off young, tender beans, and string carefully. Soak them in fresh water for several hours. Wash carefully, drain, and put them into earthen jars. Pour on them boiling vinegar, spiced as for Tomato Pickle, and allow one-quarter of a teaspoonful of powdered alum to each ‘quart of vinegar. Cover and cork well. Three days later, pour off this vinegar, boil well again, pour it over the pickles, and let them stand again for three days. Adda few cloves and pieces of red pepper pods, and bottle closely.

Young cauliflower, radishes, white and red; young corn and melons that have just begun to form may be pickled according to the above recipe. Pickled Fruits Fruits Confits au Vinaigre. 6 Pounds of Fruit.

3 Pounds of White Sugar.

1 Pint of Best Cider Vinegar. 1 Ounce Each of Cloves, Allspice, Mace and Cinnamon. 1 Nutmeg.

In pickling fruits, whether peaches, pears, plums, damsons or cherries, allow six pounds of fruit, three pounds of white sugar and one pint of the best vinegar, and spices and mace, cinnamon cloves, allspice and nutmeg in proportion. Put the fruit into a kettle with alternate layers of sugar and spices, and add the vinegar. Let all boil for about five minutes, and then skim out the fruit and pack in glass jars as it begins to cool. Let the syrup boil till thick, and then pour it over the pickles. Bottle tight and examine from time to time. If they show signs of fermenting open the jars or set them uncovered in a kettle of boiling water, and heat the contents till they begin to bubble and then cork them again.

In pickling cherries, always leave the stems on the cherries, and to every quart allow a pint of vinegar and two large teaspoonfuls of sugar, a dozen cloves and allspice, and five or six blades of mace. Let the vinegar and spices boil together for about five minutes, and then turn into an earthen jar and let them cool. Then strain and fill the pickle jars with the cherries about three-quarters full, and pour the cold vinegar over them. Bottle tight, and keep in a cool place. Sweet Tomato Pickles are put up by using the ingredients mentioned above, allowing, however, a pint and a half of vinegar to the above quantities of sugar and fruit. Stew the tomatoes, vinegar and spices together for about three-quarters of an hour, and then bottle for use.

Pickled Watermelon Rind Reorces de Melon d’Eau Oonfites aw Vinaigre.

4 Pounds of Watermelon Rind. ¥% Pint of Best French Vinegar. 1 Pound of Brown Sugar.

1 Tablespoonful of Mixed Ground Cloves. Mace, Cinnamon and Allspice. Cut the watermelon rind into strips, cook in clear water and drain. To four pounds of rind take one pound of brown sugar and half a pint of vinegar, and make a syrup, to which add the ground spices. Boil the watermelon rind in this syrup till quite tender. Put in jars whle hot and seal. This is a sweet pickle. Chervil Vinegar Cerfeuil au Vinaigre.

1 Pint_of Dried or Fresh Chervil Leaves. 1 Quart of Best French Vinegar. Half fill a wide mouthed bottle with either fresh or dry Chervil leaves. Fill to the top’ with the best vinegar, and set it in hot water till it reaches the boiling point. Then remove from the fire. When cool cork, and in about two weeks it will be ready for use. The Creoles use this vinegar to add a flavoring to sauces for salads.

Pepper Vinegar Vinaigre Pimenté.

% Pint of Small Cherry or Chili Peppers.

% Pint of Best French Vinegar. Every Creole housewife keeps on hand a bottle of Pepper Vinegar. It

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is made by filling a pint bottle about half full of small Cherry Peppers or Chili Peppers, red and green, and then filling up with the best French vinegar or cider. Bottle well, and in about a week it will be ready for use. A peculiarity about this Pepper Vinegar is that the bottle may be filled Qgain and again as it diminishes, without adding new peppers. It is very strong and hot, and a few drops im one’s soup or salad will be found quite sufficient.

Tarragon Vinegar Vinaigre & UVEstragon.

% Pint of Tarragon Leaves. 1 Quart of Best -Cider.

The best French Vinegar is made from the Tarragon leaves. The French gather the leaves and expose them to the heat of the sun for several days, then they throw them into the best cider and steep for about two weeks. The liquor is then carefully strained, a flannel bag being generally used, and it is afterwards bottled, corked and sealed, and kept in a cool place. Spiced Vinegar Vinaigre Aromatisé.

1% Gallons of the Best Cider. 1 Ounce Each of Cloves, Allspice, Mace, Celery and Mustard Seed.

1% Ounces Each of Black Pepper, Turmeric and White Ginger. Mix all the spices together with the vinegar and the bits of ginger, and place in an earthen jar and cover closely.

For smaller proportions take one quart of cider vinegar, and put it into one-third of an ounce each of dried mint, dried parsley, one grated garlic, two small onions, two cloves, one teaspoonful of pepper, one of grated nutmeg, salt to taste, and one tablespoonful of sugar. Put all into a jar. and let it stand for three weeks; then strain and bottle.

Tabasco Tabasco @ la Créole, 3 Dozen Large Red Peppers. % Pint of Hot Spiced Vinegar. This is one of the most famous of our Creole sauces. It is made from the celebrated Louisiana Tabasco Peppers of unsurpassed flavor. These hot peppers are much sought after. _ and one garlic.

Take three dozen large red Tabasco peppers or Chili peppers, and one clove of garlic, chopped very fine, and scald them until very tender. Then mash the peppers and garlic together and press them through a_ sieve. Dilute the paste thus formed with spiced vinegar till it reaches the consistency of rich cream. Bottle and seal for use. The garlic may be omitted.

Creole Red Pepper Catsup Bauce de Poivre Rouge @ la Oréole. 4 Dozen Pepper Pods.

2 Quarts of Best French Vinegar. 3 Tablespoonfuls of Grated Horseradish. 5 Onions. 1 Garlic.

Take four dozen pods of ripe green peppers, two quarts of vinegar, one of water, three tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, five onions, sliced, Boil all together till the onions are very soft. Then mash all together to a paste and strain, rubbing through a sieve till nothing remains but the seeds and skins. When cold, bottle and cork tightly for use.

Maunsell- White This is a famous Creole preparation and it bears the name of the family that originated it. In Maunsell-White the infusion of Cayenne is so hot that only a few drops suffice, but the taste is pungent and stimulative to the palate, and is especially agreeable when eating oysters with Oyster Bread, or “Hard Tack.”

Salted Almonds Amandes Salées.

1 Pint of Almonds.

Shell about a pint of almonds, and then blanch or scald them in boiling water till the skin comes off very easily. Dry well, and place in a fiat tin dish; add about an ounce of butter, and set the plate in a moderate oven until the almonds are a golden brown. Then take them out of the oven, add a heaping tablespoonful of salt, stir them round and round, or according to the way in which the almonds pick up the salt, dredging quickly with the salt, and turn them into a dish to cool. Pick out the almonds, and throw aside the extra salt. When cool, place in a box for

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use, covering tightly. The salt may be added when the almonds are first put in the oven. Be careful to stir frequently while they are in the oven, so that they may be equally browned on all sides. Almonds prepared after this manner are delicious.

Another way to prepare Salted Almonds is to put the whole blanched almonds on a baking sheet, and roast them nicely in a hot oven to a slight brown. Then make a solution of Gum Arabic and water and wet the almonds with it. Dust over them very finely powdered and sifted table salt, and stir well but gently till dry. Salted Peanuts. Des Pistaches Salées.

1 Pint of Whole Peanuts.

Use blanched, whole peanuts, and as in the last recipe given for Salted Almonds.

CHAPTER XLVII De Pains a la Créole.

Perhaps no branch of cvokery so interests visitors to New Orleans as our Creole Breads. While in breakfast recipes, such as batter cakes, flannel cakes, waffles, buckwheat cakes, biscuit, etc., we have much in common with other sections, there is a distinctiveness about our ‘‘Brioches,” “Babas,” “Calas,” ‘“‘Sacramités,” “Sweet Potato Bread,” French Loaves, French Rolls, etc., which are peculiar to ourselves alone. Our “Baker's Bread,” or “Pain de Boulanger,” of itself stands unique among the breads of the United States, and has been the subject of more than one interesting newspaper and magazine article. It has this peculiarity, that one never tires of it, as one does of other breads, the reason for this being that it is white and tender, of an even porous character, with a thin, crisp crust, and is just such a bread as is required in our climate. Made into toasts, it is the most delightful of all breads. How to Make and Bake Bread Bread, to be perfect, should be light and sweet, with a rich, nutty flavor of the wheat. To obtain this result, only the best flour and the best dough must be used. While the bread is rising the temperature of the oven should be about 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and the heat in baking should be_ usually about 360 degrees, or hot enough to raise the inside of the bread to about 220 degrees. This is necessary to cook the starch, expand the carbonic gas, steam and air, and also to drive off the alcohol which is used in the yeast. The bakers in New Orleans have a way of testing the temperature of the oven by putting a piece of white paper in it. If it turns dark in five minutes the oven is of the right temperature. If it burns, the oven 1s too hot, and must be cooled before putting in the bread; but if the paper is only a light brown at the end of five minutes, the oven must be made hotter. Again, a little flour is sprinkled in the oven, and if it browns or smokes before you can count ten, the oven is too hot; if it browns at ten, the oven is of the right temperature. Brick ovens are often used, and the loaves of bread are shoved in, generally on baking boards. Rolls are always baked first; then the bread, and afterwards the pies and cakes. It is best to have the oven heated in time and closed for one hour at least before beginning to bake. Bread should be in the oven about ten minutes before it begins to brown. When done, remove carefully from the pan, and tip it against a bread board, just as they do in New Orleans bake-

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ed ries. This allows the air to circulate freely around it. Never cover bread that has been recently baked, if you wish it to be fresh and sweet and crisp.

The New Orleans bakers always use (Compressed Yeast for leavening bread us it does not necessitate making a ferment or setting sponge before mixing the dough.

Bakers’ Bread Pain de Boulanger.

1 Ounce of Compressed Yeast. 1% Ounces of Salt.

Flour Sufficient to Make a Smooth Dough.

Allow one ounce of Compressed Yeast to one quart of lukewarm water and mix well in a wooden bread trough. Then add flour enough to make a nice smooth dough of medium degree, not too stiff, nor yet too soft. Work it well, and then let it stand for about five hours in a warm place, so as to rise well. When it drops, or begins to fall (you can tell this by watching the sides of the dough), add the same amount of water that was used in making the dough, putting two teaspoonfuls of salt into the water before adding it. Work this well, then throw it down on the table, cut and mold it neatly into loaves of whatever length is desired, then take a smooth stick and press lightly down across the loaf about two inches from the edge. The bakers put the loaves into the oven without setting them in a pan. Be careful to have the oven of the temperature menttoned above.

The above quantity will make about five loaves.

French Bread Pain Frangate.

1 Ounce of Yeast.

1% Ounces of Salt. 2 Quarts of Water. Flour Sufficient _ to Make a Smooth Dough.

Dissolve the yeast, salt and sugar with the water and mix in flour sufficient to make a nice smooth dough of medium degree, not too stiff, nor yet too soft. Work until it no longer adheres to hand or bowl, and then cover it with a cloth and set to rise until it has doubled its size. This will be in about four or five hours. When it begins to sink, work it well again and set it to rise anew. When well risen divide the dough into equal pleces, and mold into round ball shapes, or into long loaves of about two inches in thickness. Lay the loaves on a board previously sprinkled with flour, setting them far enough apart not to touch one another, and set to rise again. Let them rise to nearly double the previous size. Have the oven heated, transfer the loaves into it, wash over with eggs mixed with water, make diagonal cuts half way across on each loaf, half way through, and close the oven. When baked brush off the flour, wipe the tops with a damp cloth and the bread is ready to serve.

Pan Bread Pain de Pdaque.

1 Ounce of Compressed Yeast. % Pound of Lard.

1% Ounces of Salt.

Flour Sufficient to piake a Smooth ough.

1% Ounces of Sugar, if Desired. This is a nice, large-loafed bread, with a dainty crust, that is somewhat glutinous, and, as the name indicates, is invariably baked in a pan. It is remarkable for the daintiness of grain of the bread after baking. Make the same dough as for Bakers’ Bread. only work the loaves twice over; then put them in the oven and dredge lightly with flour. As they begin to rise make a light paste of flour and water or egg and water and spread very Hghtly over them. Then they are brushed lightly with lard, to keep from getting too crusty. Bake in a rather hotter oven than ts needed for the other bread.

French Toaves Des Petits Pains Francais. 1 Ounce of Compressed Yeast. 1% Ounces of Salt.

Flour Sufficient_to Make a Smooth Dough.

These are the dainty little loaves so generally used in our New Orleans restaurants and hotels. Make the dough as in Bakers’ Bread, and after it has risen and begins to-drop, scale the dough off, and cut and shape it into little loaves of about the length of a man’s hand. Mold them round and set them to rise again. When they are very light, which will be in a few minutes, take them up and work

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them well separately, and then mold them again and gently press in the center with a smooth stick. Lay them in a box with a stiff cloth over them, and let them He for a few minutes. Take off the cloth and set them in the oven to brown nicely. Set to cool as above indicated.

Twist Loaves Pain Treasé.

1 Ounce of Compressed Yeast. 1% Ounces of Salt.

Flour Sufficient to Make a Smooth Dough.

Make the same dough as for “Bakers’ Bread.” After the first rising and throwing in of water and working the bread, cut the dough, and divide each portion into three equal pieces. Dust this dough well with parched flour and roll the pieces into lengths of about two feet, or a foot and a half, and plait them. Then lay them in a long box or on a board, and cover with a stiff cloth, as in French Loaves. and let them lie till they begin to rise. Place in the oven and bake to a nice brown.

Rye Bread Pain de Seigle.

1 Ounce of Compressed Yeast. 1” Ounces of Salt.

Rye and our Sufficient to Make a Smooth Dough.

A Few Kummel Seeds.

Make the dough a little stiffer than for White Bread, allowing one-half of wheat flour and one-half rye. Allow the same amount of yeast, and add a few Kummel seeds and a little more salt than for White Bread. Set to rise. After one rising work again as in Bakers’ Bread, divide it into loaves, and set it to rise again. When about twice its original size bake in a moderate oven.

Home-Made Creole Light Bread Pain de Menage @ la Créole. 2 Quarts of Flour.

1% Pints of Milk or Water. Sift the flour. Then put it in a wooden bread trough or a pan, and make a hole in the center of the flour. Add warm water or milk sufficient to make a nice, smooth, rather stiff batter. Mix the yeast with a little tepid water till well dissolved, ‘and add. Then set to rise over night in a warm place. In the morning take up and again make a hole in the center of the dough, and add half a tablespoonful of melted lard or butter, one and one-half teaspoonfuls of salt, and one and one-half pints of warm milk or water, knead well about ten times and when it forms a smooth dough, shape it into a cake, and set to rise again. When risen to about twice its size take up and knead again about five times, that is, work one piece of dough over the other about five times, and set to rise again. Always. when setting to rise, sprinkle the bottom of the pan with a little flour. After an hour take up the bread and knead for about ten minutes, till you have a nice dough, that can be worked without sprinkling the biscuit board with flour. Then form the dough into two loaves. Place them side by side in the baking pan, and bake in a moderate oven for about three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot or cold.

Milk Bread Pain au Lait.

2 Quarts of Flour.

% Teacupful of Yeast or % Cake of Compressed Yeast.

1 Pint of Fresh Milk.

Scald the milk, and then turn it into the bread trough or pan. Add immediately the butter and the salt. When it becomes tepid add the yeast and about three-quarters of a pint or half a pint of flour, using always good judgment, adding more or less in order to make a thick batter. Then beat thoroughly till air bubbles accumulate all over the surface of the batter. Next cover and set in a warm place over night. Very early in the morning work in the rest of the flour, take it out of the pan and put it on a board and knead quickly and lightly until the’ dough is perfectly smooth and does not cling to the hands or the board. Then put it back in the trough or pan and cover with a cloth, and set to rise again in a warm place. When it has increased to twice its bulk turn again upon the board, and then divide the dough into two parts. Mold these lightly and gently into small loaves, and stand away to rise for about half an hour.

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Then set in the oven, which should be moderately quick, and bake for three-quarters of an hour. Buttermilk Bread Pain au Babeurre.

1 Pint of Buttermuk.

1 Dessertspoonful of Soda. Warm the milk, add the sugar, butter and soda, the latter dissolved in a little warm water. Then add the flour and set to rise. When well risen knead lightly, place in a baking pan, let it rise again for half an hour, ana bake in a moderate oven. This makes an excellent, nutritious and very white bread, and is much used by the Creoles in making French Toasts. Buttermilk Rolls are made by simply pinching off the above dough into pieces about the size of a walnut or egg, shaping into little balls, and proceeding as above.

Rice Bread Pain de Riz.

1 Cup of Cold Boiled Rice. 2 Cups of White Indian Meal. 2 Eggs. 1 Pablespoontul of Melted Butter. 2 Heaping Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. 1% Pints of Milk.

Beat the yolks and whites of the eggs together until very light, and then pour in the milk, mixing gradually. Add the well prepared meal, into which has been well mixed the salt and Baking Powder. Beat well. Then add the melted butter and the rice, which has been well pressed through a sieve. Mix all thoroughly, and beat till very light. Then grease the bottom of a shallow pan and curn the mixture in and bake half an hour in a hot oven. Serve hot, buttering the slices freely. This is a delicious breakfast bread, and, as in any of the above recipes, cold rice left over may be utilized in its making. Sweet Potato Bread Pain de Patates.

1 Quart of Mashed Sweet Potatoes. 1% Pints of Flour.

1 Pint of Milk or Warm Water. % Teacup of Fresh Yeast, or Half a This is a delicious Creole Bread. The potatoes must be baked, peeled and mashed. Put the milk, or water, and the yeast and salt into a bowl or pan; add the butter, which must be melted. Beat thoroughly, and set over night in a warm place. In the morning add the potatoes, mashed and pressed through a sieve, and gradually add the flour, which must be sifted three times. Beat to a light sponge; then cover, and set to rise in a warm place till it doubles its size. Then turn out on a bread board and mold into loaves; put in a slightly greased pan and let rise till light. Then bake in a moderate oven forty-five minutes. ROLLS Bourrelets.

junce of Yeast.

¥% Pound of Lard.

1 Tablespoonful of Sugar (if Desired). Dissolve the sugar (if desired), the yeast and salt, with the milk and the water. Then add flour sufficient to make a nice dough of medium firmness. Add the lard, and work the dough until smooth. Then form into a round mass and set to rise. When the dough has doubled its size work anew, mold it into small round balls and set in a greased baking pan each a little distance apart from the other. Set to rise again, and when they have doubled their size bake in a brisk oven.

French Rolls Bourrelets @ la Frangatee. 1% Pints of Fresh Milk.

2 Quarts of White Flour. 2 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Sugar (Which May be Omitted, According to Taste). % Cake of Compressed Yeast, Dissolved in Warm Water.

Boil the milk, take off the stove, and add the butter, sugar and salt. Then add the well beaten eggs. Stir in about one and a half pounds of flour, more or less, to make a stiff batter, and beat till air bubbles accumulate all over the surface. Then cover with a close cloth and set to rise over night in a warm place, Then take up the dough and knead lightly with the remaining flour to make a nice, soft dough, and shape with your hands into neat, small rolls or balls. Set them together in the baking pan. which has been very lightly sprinkled

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Then put to rise for an hour longer. Set in the oven, and bake about a half hour. These rolls are delicious for breakfast, or for luncheon or supper. They may be set to rise in the early morning, and served hot at luncheon.

with flour.

Tea Rolls Bourrelcts pour le Thé 1 Gill of Warm Water.

Sift the flour and salt together. Scald the milk, and when tepid add the yeast, dissolved in a little warm water, to one-half of the milk. Add one-half of the flour, and make a thin batter, stirring very smooth. Set it to rise in a warm place, and at the end of three hours make it into a dough with the remainder of the milk and flour, and knead well till the dough no longer adheres to the board or to your hands. Then shape it with your hands into small balls, set to rise for about an hour, and bake in a moderate oven for a half hour. RUSKS Echaudés Secs.

1 Pint of Warm Milk, 1 Cup of Sugar. 2 Eggs.

1 Cake of Compressed Ye Flour Sufficient to Make a Batter. Dissolve the yeast in the warm milk and then add flour sufficient to make a thin batter. Set to rise over night. In the morning beat the sugar and the butter to a cream. and add the eggs, well beaten. Add these to the batter, beat well, add the salt, and sufficient flour to make a soft dough. Then mold the dough into balls with your hands, or into small loaves. Set to rise until they have reached about twice their bulk. Then place in the oven and bake for thirty minutes. If sweet rusks are not desired, omit the TOAST Pain Roti.

6 Slices of Bread.

Butter to Taste.

Slice the bread, neither too thick nor too thin. Cut off the rough edges of the crust. Hold on a fork before burning coals till nicely toasted on one side. Then turn on the other, and proceed as before. If dry toast is desired, the bread is not buttered. If buttered toast, butter nicely, set in the oven a second and send to the table hot.

Some cooks toast bread by simply setting the slices in the oven and letting them brown on either side. But there is no comparison in lightness to the toast prepared in the above oldfashioned way.

Cream or Milk Toast Roties a la Créme ow au Lait 6 Slices of Bread.

1 Pint of Hot Cream or Milk. 1 Tablespoonfyp! of Butter. Toast the bread nicely, and butter well on both sides. Lay in a dish, and pour hot milk over it. Serve hot. Or, heat one pint of Cream, add one large tablespoonful of butter, and pour over the hot toast. Slightly stale bread may be utilized in this way. Soda crackers may be toasted and served in the same way. This was a great supper dish in the old Creole plantation homes of Louisiana. Lost Bread or Egg Toast Pain Perdu.

2 Tablespoonfuls o Slices of Stale Bread.

The Finely-Grated Rind of a Lemon. The Creoles utilize left-over stale bread in this delightful breakfast relish known as “Pain Perdu.” Break the eggs into a bowl, beat them till very light, add the Orange Flower Water and then add the sugar, and beat thoroughly. Add the grated peel of a lemon, mix well, and then cut the bread into slices or round pieces, taking off the crust, or still again into diamond shapes, and soak them well for a half hour in the mixture. Have ready a frying pan of boiling lard (see General Directions for Frying), lay in the bread, and fry to a golden brown Lift the slices out with a skimmer, and drain 9n brown paper in the mouth of the oven. Place them on 2a hot dish, sprinkle with powdered sugar, as you would fritters, add a little grated nutmeg, if desired, and Orange Flower

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Neer peen Seg eeest Spanish Toast Roties &@ VEspangnole 3 Tablespoonfuls of Powdered Sugar. 1 Egg.

% Ounce Each of Powdered Nutmeg and Cinnamon.

6 Slices of Stale Bread.

Lard for Frying.

Beat the egg and sugar well, and add the milk. Have ready the slices of stale bread, cut in diamond shapes or square, and let them soak for about a half hour in the mixture. Put them in a pan of boiling lard, and fry to a golden brown. Skim out and drain on brown paper in the mouth of the oven, and place on a hot dish. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and grated cinnamon and nutmeg, and serve with milk or cream.

BRIOCHES 2 Pounds of the Best Flour. Ounce of Yeast.

Cun of Sugar.

% Ounce of It.

1 Pound of the Best Butter. 12 or 8 Eggs.

To make “Brioches,” put a pound and a half of the best quality of flour in a wooden bread trough. Make a hole in the center of the flour, and put in a half ounce of yeast, previously dissolved in a little warm water. Take milk or tepid water to make the dough, using milk if you want it to be’ very rich and delicate. Knead and mix the flour with one hand, while adding the milk or water with the other. Make a dough that is neither too stiff nor too soft, and when perfectly smooth set the dough to rise in a moderately warm place, covering with a cloth. Remember that if you use milk to make the dough, the milk must be scalded, that is, it must be heated to the boiling point and then allowed to grow tepid. Let the dough rise for five or six hours, and when it has increased to twice its bulk, add the reserved half pound of flour, into which has been well sifted the salt. Add six eggs, beaten very light, with the sugar and butter, and mix all well together, kneading lightly with your hands, and adding more eggs if the dough is a little stiff. Then knead the dough by turning it over on itself three times, and set to rise again for an hour or three-quarters of an hour. Cover with a cloth. At the end of this time take it up, work it again lightly and then form into ‘Brioches," that is, work the dough gently with your hands, and then break it into pieces about the size of an egg. Pat these gently, forming them into neat rolls, a little flattened, and then make one roll about twice the size of the others. This roll will. form the head of the Brioche. Have ready a baking pan with a buttered sheet of paper in it, and put the central roll in the middle. Arrange around the other rolls, having at least six or eight, to form a perfect-looking cake. Cover the pan with a clean, stiff cloth, and set the cake to rise for an hour longer. When well risen, set in an oven a few degrees cooler than that used for baking Bread. If the rolls are large, let them bake an hour and a half; if medium, one hour, and if very small, a half hour. Some bakers and cooks glaze the Brioche lightly with a beaten egg, which is spread neatly over the top, before placing in the oven. This gives the rich, glossy surface so often seen on the Brioche. Again, if you cannot afford butter, use lard, or half butter and lard, but the Brioche made with butter and milk is the most delicate and the true Creole Brioche, peculiar to New Orleans. After the Brioches are baked, set them to cool, if you do not wish to eat them hot. When serving, whether hot or cold, sprinkle lightly with powdered white sugar. BABA 2 Pounds of the Best Flour. Ounce of Yeast.

% Ounce of Salt.

1 Pound of the Best Butter. 12 or 14 Eggs.

% Pound of Seeded Raisins. % Pound of Currants.

% Glass of Sweetened Water. A Tinge of Saffron.

The dough for the “Baba” is exactly the same as that for the Brioche. Proceed in the same manner, only at the moment of adding the reserved flour to the leavened dough, add a half pound of seeded raisins, and a half pound of currants, washed, picked and dried. Add also a half glass of sweetened, tepid water, in which has been first put a little saffron. Be careful to keep this dough much softer than that for the Brioche, adding more eggs, if necessary, to insure the proper degree of consistency. The

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SS dough must rise at least six or seven hours. When it has increased to twice its volume, after the third rising, cook as you would the Brioche, in an oven a few degrees cooler than that used in baking bread. The “Baba” is made into a round cake, just like a Pound Cake or Sponge Cake, and is formed into this round shape with the hands. After baking, let cool and sprinkle with powdered white sugar. This is the cake that the Creole bakers of New Orleans send as a “Christmas” or “New Year's Offering” to their customers. The German bakers of New Orleans adopted the custom, and make the “Baba” by adding to the raisins and currants a little Aniseed, instead of the Saffron.

BULLFROGS Grenouilles.

% Pound of the Best Flour. Ounce of Yeast.

Cup of Sugar. Ounce of Salt. % 1 Bound of the Best Butter. 8 or 12 Eggs.

Under this amusing name are sold the delicious small rolls which are served in Creole homes and restaurants. The rolls are joined together lightly in long rows of about eight inches in length and three in width. The dough for “Bullfrogs” is just the same as that for the Brioche, only a half pound of flour is used, instead of a pound, and a cup of butter. Bake in the same manner.

CHEESE CAKES Talmouses.

A Pinch of Salt.

2 Cream Cheeses.

A Brioche or Plain Paste.

(See Recipe Plain Paste.) Put the butter in a saucepan, and add the water and the salt. Let all come to a boil, stirring constantly. Then take from the fire and add the eggs, beaten well, and the cream cheese. Mix all well. Then line small molds or tins with some nice Plain Paste, or Brioche Paste, rolled very thin. Place inside an egg-sized piece of the cream cheese mixture. Then cover the cakes with a piece of rolled dough, and bake in a slow oven. FRUIT BRIOCHE.

Peiliaro.

2 Pounds of Flour.

1 Pound of Butter, or Half Butter and 12 Eggs. % Ounce of Yeast. Milk or Tepid Water to Form a Dough.

Pound of Figs or Stoned Cherries. Make the same dough as for the Brioche. At the moment of adding the leavened flour and the reserved flour, add the stoned cherries or peeled figs, the latter cut in halves. Then proceed as for Brioches, and at the last kneading add the orange flower water. Bake as you would the Brioche, — BISCUIT Des Biacuits, 1 Heaping Teaspoonful of Lard. 2 Teasnoonfuls of Yeast Powder. 1 Pint of Water or Sweet Milk. Sift the flour well, and add the salt and yeast powder, rubbing in thoroughly with your hands. Then rub in the lard, rubbing the flour between your hands till every portion is permeated by the lard, and there are no lumps. Gradually add water or milk, using about a pint, more or less, mixing in with your hands. Then knead the dough until smooth and elastic. Form into molds, and lay on the biscult board, and roll out till about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Cut into round cakes with the biscuit cutter. Stick lightly with a fork here and there over the surface, and bake in a quick oven for about five or six minutes. By adding four or five eggs and, instead of the lard, one tablespoonful of butter, to the above, you will have egg biscuit. Beaten Biscuit Bisoutts Battus.

1 Heaping Teaspoonful of Lard. 1 Pint of Milk _ water, or Half and ‘alf, Sift the flour and add the salt, mixing thoroughly. Then add the lard, and blend by rubbing through the hands till not a lump remains in the flour. Now add gradually the water or milk, or the milk and water combined, using half and half of each,

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rere zand knead all together till the dough, -which must not be too soft, but rather stiff, is formed. Then lay the dough on a biscuit board on a block, and beat for a half hour with a rolling pin. Knead lightly, and beat again for a full ten minutes, till upon every portion of the surface and sides the air bubbles or “blisters” form. Then roll out and cut into round biscuits with the cutter, or square ones with a knife, and stick here and there with a fork. Bake in a moderate oven for about ten or fifteen minutes, till a delicate brown above and below. Stewed Biscuits Biscuits’ Sautés.

6 Left-Over Biscuits.

% Pound of Butter. 1% Pints of Milk. Left-over biscuits may be thus utllized. Lay in a porcelain-lined saucepan, biscuits cut in’ halves, put bits of butter over these, then a layer of biscuit, and so on till all are used up. Pour milk over the whole, let it come to a boil, and serve hot. Soda and Milk Biscuit Btacuit au Lait et @ la Soude, 1 Heaping Teaspoonful of Lard. 2 Cups of Sour Milk.

Sift the flour and add the salt and lard, rubbing them in thoroughly with your hands, as above indicated. Then dissolve the soda in a little warm water and add to the milk, and work rapidly and lightly. Then lay on a biscuit board or a block of wood, and beat till the surface of the dough is full of air bubbles, or “blisters,” as the old Creole cooks call them. Roll the dough out to about a quarter of an inch in thickness, cut into round biscuits with a biscuit cutter, or square ones with a knife. Stick here and there over the surface with a fork, and bake for about six minutes in a quick oven. If too much soda 1s used, it not only imparts a bitter taste, but makes the flour an ugly, yellowish green, that is neither tempting nor inviting.

The Graham Biscuit is made by using three cups of Graham flour, one cup of white flour, one teaspoonful of Baking Powder, one heaping tablespoonful of sugar or molasses, and two cups of luke-warm water, mixing ‘ the batter until it reaches the consistency of oatmeal porridge, and then pouring into buttered tins. Let it rise till light, and bake in a moderate oven. Milk may be used instead of water, if you have it.

Sweet Potato Biscuit Biscuits de Patates Douces. 4 Tablespoonfuls of Butter or Lard. 1 Tablespoonful of White Sugar. Sufficient Flour to Make a Batter. Boil the potatoes, pare and mash them very fine through a sieve. Scald the milk and add the salt and sugar. Then beat till perfectly smooth. Add these to the potatoes and mix well. Then add about half a cup of flour, well sifted several times, so that it will be very light. When the mixture grows tepid, add the yeast, which has been well dissolved in warm water, and beat hard till you have a good batter. Then cover the mixture with a thick cloth, and put to rise in a warm Place. After three or four hours, when it is well risen, add flour sufficient to make a nice, soft dough. Knead very lightly and quickly for about ten or fifteen minutes. At the end of this time take up and knead lightly several times, and roll the dough out. Cut into little biscuits, place them in a slightly-buttered or greased pan, about two inches apart, let them.stand for half an hour in a warm place and then bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes.

Tea Biscuits Biscuits pour le Thé.

Pint of Milk. 3 Ege.

2 Ounces of Butter or rd.

1 Teaspoonful of Sugar.

Scald the milk and add the butter. Set to cool, and then add the salt and the sugar and yeast. Add one-half of the flour. Mix well, and then beat rapidly for about five or ten minutes. Cover up the pan with a cloth. and set in a warm place for about two hours. Then take up, add the wellbeaten eggs and the remainder of the flour. Make a soft dough, and knead lightly but constantly for about twenty minutes. If the dough is then elastic, form into loaves and set to rise in a warm place. When it has increased

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to twice its bulk, which will be in about two hours, pinch off into small pieces about half the size of a hen’s egg, and mold into a small ball. Place all in a pan about two inches apart, and cover again for half an hour. Then bake in a moderate oven for about a quarter of an hour. They must be baked to a nice brown. Soda Crackers Biscuits de Soude.

2 Cups of Sweet Milk or Water. % Teaspoonful of Sode Sift the flour several times and add the salt. Mix well. Then rub in the butter thoroughly. Add the soda, which has been well dissolved in a little boiling water, and the milk, and mix ali well together. Then knead well and put upon the biscuit board and beat with a rolling pin for upwards of half an hour, frequently rolling the dough over, and beating hard until the air bubbles cover every part, above and below. Then roll out into a nice square even sheet of dough, about one-eighth of an inch in thickness, and cut into neat square cakes. Stick through and through with a fork here and there over the surface in even rows, and bake them in a moderate oven till they are hard and crisp, but not brown. Hang them in a muslin bag for about two days to thoroughly dry, and they are ready to be served.

Wafers Gaufres.

1 Pint of Flour.

Pint of Sweet Milk.

Sift the flour very, very fine, and then add the salt, and mix well. Add the milk and make into a nice, rather stiff dough. Place on a biscuit board and beat for fully a half hour, and then turn the dough over and beat for fifteen minutes more, the lightness depending upon the beating. Roll them out into cakes that are almost transparent in thinness, but which can also be handled without losing their shape. Lay them gently in the pan, or better still, roll them out on a baking sheet which has been sprinkled with flour; then they will not require handling. Bake quickly in a hot oven. SHORT CAKE Gdteau de Pate aw Beurre.

4 Tablespoonfuls of Butter or 2 of Lard. A Pinch of Soda, or % Teaspoonful of Yeast Powder.

Sift the flour and yeast powder together, if you desire it instead of soda. Otherwise sift the flour, add the salt, and mix the lard or butter thoroughly together, rubbing between your hands till there is not a lump left. Then add sufficient tepid water to make a nice, rather stiff dough. Roll out into a thin sheet, about half an inch thick, and criss-cross with a knife lightly in diamond shapes. Set in the oven and bake for about fifteen minutes to a light brown. This is brought to the table split open and buttered, and eaten while hot.

The short cake for fruits is made in exactly the same manner, only a quarter of a pound of butter is used, and two eggs, well beaten, and instead of water, sour milk or buttermilk is used to mix, if you use soda, and sweet milk if you use yeast powder. This dough is divided in two, one for the upper, and the other for the lower crust, and is sprinkled thickly between with such fruits as strawberries, raspberries, etc. The dough should be soft and crisp.

CORN BREAD Pain de Mais.

It has been said that the only people who know how to make corn bread are the Southern people, and that the further you go below Mason's and Dixon's line the better the corn bread, corn cakes, and corn muffins, that are offered you. Throughout Louisiana the dainty “Egg Breads,” Corn Cakes, Muffins, “Crackling Bread,” etc., are the relishes that planters place before the guests who have been invited to partake of their morning hospitality.

Plain Corn Bread Pain de Mais Simpic.

1 Quart of the Finest Indian Meal A Heaping Tablespoonful of Lard or Poor just enough boiling water over the meal to scald it through and through, without making a dough or

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nd ee batter. Stir it well, and let it grow tepid. It will then be quite dry. Add @ melted teaspoonful of lard or butter. Mix this well, and add water, and beat till the batter is very smooth. Dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a@ little boiling water, and add to the mixture, and grease a baking pan. Turn the mixture in and bake in a. quick oven for about thirty-five minutes, till a golden brown. Take the bread from the pan whole, place it on a hot platter, and serve, cutting it‘ at the table into slices about two inches long and three wide, and serving with butter.

Egg Corn Bread Pain de Mais auw Ocufs.

1 Quart of Cornmeal. 4 Eggs. 1 Pint of Milk (Buttermilk if Possible). Scald the meal with boiling water sufficient to melt. Beat the yolks of the eggs light. Add the corn meal and melted butter, and the salt, and beat till light, moistening with the milk. Then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat all well together. Pour into a buttered or greased pan, or into shallow tins, and bake quickly. This is the real Creole Corn Bread, so highly praised by all tourists through Louisiana. Success depends upon the proper beating of the eggs, as well as on the rising of the corn bread itself. If the eggs are well beaten, the corn bread will need neither soda nor yeast to make it rise properly. Some add a tablespoonful of sugar wheh they wish to have sweetened corn bread. Corn bread should always be served hot and generously buttered.

Nonpareil Corn Bread Pain de Mais Nonpariel.

2 Cups of Indian Meal.

1 Cup of Flour. 3 Eggs.

2% ups of Sweet Milk.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar (if Desired). Beat the eggs very, very light, the whites and yolks separately. Melt the lard or butter, and sift the Baking Powder into the sifted meal and flour. Stir this:into the yolks of the eggs and the milk. Blend thoroughly. Add the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat, well together. and bake quickly and steadily in a quick oven for about a half hour. Serve hot, with butter. Risen Corn Bread Pain de Mais au Levain.

1 Quart of Cornmeal.

1 Pint of Milk or Water. 3 Eggs. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Yeast. Beat the eggs well, and use boiling water or milk to blend the corn meal, eggs and salt together. Then add the yeast, which has been well dissolved in a little hot water. Set the bread to rise for three or four hours, and then bake in tins or in a greased pan, like a pone of bread, or make it into loaves.

Again, the risen corn bread can be made much more quickly by simply adding two tablespoonfuls of baking powder to the batter, or a half teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a cup of milk. Mix thoroughly, and bake in buttered tins or a pan. Always scald the meal with boiling water first.

Steamed Corn Bread Pain de Maie a la Vapeur.

1 Cup of Louisiana Molasses. 2 Cups of Sweet Milk.

Scald the meal. Beat the eggs very light, and beat the milk into them till very light. Add the molasses and baking powder, and blend well. Then add the flour, mixing and beating till thoroughly blended. A half cup of sugar may be used instead of the molasses, Tie in a cloth, as you would roll a pudding, and place in a steamer, on top of a pot of boiling water, and cover first with a close cloth, and then with the steamer cover, and steam for three hours. Then turn into a hot dish, and eat as a plain dessert, with a Hard or Cream Sauce. (See Pudding Sauces. ) Corn Meal Pone Pain de Mais Créole, 1 Quart of the Finest Indian Meal. 1 Teaspoontul of Salt.

A Heaping Teaspoonful of Lard or 1 Pint of Sour Milk or Buttermilk. Pour just enough boiling water over the meal.to scald it.thraugh. and

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through, without making a dough or batter. Stir it well, and let it grow tepid. It will be then quite dry. Beat three eggs very light, add them to the meal, and add a melted tablespoonful of lard or butter. Mix this well, and add the milk or buttermilk, and beat till the batter is very smooth. Dissolve one teaspoonful of soda in a little boiling water, and add to the mixture, and grease a baking pan. Tum the mixture in and bake in a quick oven for about thirty-five minutes, till a golden brown. Take the pone from the pan whole, place it on a hot platter, and serve, cutting it at the table into slices about three inches long and two wide, and serving with A Plain Pone may be made by using hot water and lard, instead of milk and butter, making a thick dough, formed into loaves and baked. But it bears no comparison to the real Creole Pone, as made above. Nevertheless, it is a very good and nutritious white corn bread. In the rural districts of Louisiana the lard is often omitted, and the pone made simply of the hot water and corn meal. Corn Dodgers Petits Paina de Mais.

1 Quart of Indian Meal.

1 Teaspoontful of Salt.

Scald the meal with boiling water. Add the melted lard and the salt. Use sufficient boiling water to make a very stiff batter or soft dough. Then take up a handful of the mixture, and mold it with your hands into an oval mound, tossing the cake of dough lightly between your hands in a dexterous manner, leaving the impression of your fingers across it. Bake the pones thus formed in a quick oven. They may be served at dinner, and are delicious when properly made. Ash Cake Petits Gateauz Cutte dane la Cendre. 1 Quart of Indian Meal.

This is a genuine Southern darky cake. The old Creole negroes of Louisiana excelled in making and baking it, so that no ashes clung to the clean white cake. An ash cake, as the name suggests, is always baked in the ashes on the open hearth, and wood ashes must be used. The darkies had a roaring fire and a sufficient quantity of hot ashes. They swept a clean place on the hearth and drew out a pile of hot ashes and placed the pone of bread, shaped like the Corn Dodg-ers, on top of the ashes. This was covered with hot ashes, and baked to a nice brown. Then the cake was drawn out of the ashes, wiped clean with a cloth till every particle of ashes had disappeared, and served hot with butter or molasses.

Again, the darkies wrapped the cake in fig leaves, to bake it more neatly, but the real Ash Cake was baked as above.

Fried Corn Cakes Gateaur de Mais Frits.

1 Quart of Indian Meal.

Make the dough as above, adding, if you wish, a well beaten egg, and milk instead of water. Beat till very light, and drop the stiff batter in large spoonfuls on a frying pan that has, been very well greased with fat bacon skin. They must be fried to a golden brown. After each cake is taken from the skillet, the latter must be wiped off and regreased with the fat bacon before the next cake is put upon it. Serve hot at breakfast or dinner. HOECAKE Gateau @ la Houe.

1 Pint of Flour.

Boiling Water Sufficient to Make a Batter.

These cakes may be baked on a griddle, just as you would a griddle cake, and served with butter. But the old Southern cooks always baked them on a hoe on hot coals in front of a wood fire, out in the open air, just before their cabin doors, or in their cabins before the roaring hearth fire. Hence the name Hoecake. The Hoecake was made of flour, with sufficient water to moisten it well. A teaspoonful of butter or lard was added.

The term Hoecake, so extensively used by the field hands, was:taken up by masters and mistresses, and applied to a biscuit bread made of one

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pint of flour, one-half pint of milk, one teaspoonful of yeast powder, and two spoonfuls of butter or one of lard, kneaded well together, rolled out with a@ rolling pin, and cut criss-cross, like diamonds, with a knife, and baked in the oven.

This Hoecake is served at dinner with a glass of milk or cream, as an accompaniment to Compotes of Fruits. JOHNNY CAKE Géteau de Jean.

1 Pints of Indian Meal. 3 Eggs. A Pint of Sweet Milk or Buttermilk or Hot Water.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Melted Butter, or 1 of Lard.

% Teaspoonful of Soda (May be Omitted).

Beat the eggs till very light, and add the corn meal, then beat once more. Add the melted butter and the milk or water. If buttermilk is used, you may use the soda, dissolving it in two tablespoonfuls of boiling water. Do not use the soda with the sweet milk. Make a dough or batter thick enough to be spread into round cakes a half inch in thickness and about five inches in diameter. Place them in buttered tins, and bake in a moderate oven for about a half hour, frequently brushing across while baking with melted butter. Do this about four or five times.

In the olden days, Johnny Cake was baked on a clean, sweet board, before a hot coal fire. The board had to be made of oak wood. The cake was formed and placed on the board, and the board was inclined at an angle before the hot coal fire, with a piece of wood or a flatiron to hold it, since the cake was placed at such an angle that it could harden without slipping. When quite hard it was stood upright and baked to a nice, crisp brown on both sides, being turned as needed, and often basted with butter. The Johnny Cake was served for lunch or for tea, being sent to the table hot, split and buttered, or served with fresh, sweet butter and buttermilk. CRACKLING BREAD Gratone.

Cracklings are the bits of fat meat left after all the lard has been rendered from the fat pork. They are eaten extensively throughout rural Louisiana. The fat pork is cut into small bits, about the size of a man’s hand, and then fried till every bit of grease has been extracted. This grease is then clarified and used as lard. The cracklings are saved, and eaten from time to time within the next two weeks, simply being warmed over again. Again, they may be made at any time by frying small bits of fat pork. These cracklings, to use the country parlance, “Go very well with Corn Bread,” and are not only eaten with it -“‘au naturel,” but also made into that typical rural bread of the country parishes, “Crackling Bread,” or “Gratons.”

To make this, take one pint of meal, a half teaspoonful of salt, and cold water enough to make a thick batter. Mix the cracklings, already fried, of course, in the batter, and pour a big tablespoonful at a time on a griddle. Fry to a golden brown. Crackling bread is very crisp, and if properly made is a very palatable bread, requiring no butter or other accompaniment to make it toothsome. MUFFINS Galettes.

No breakfast cake admits of greater variety than the Muffin. We have Plain Muffins, Egg Muffins, Cornmeal Muffins, Rice, Hominy and Cream Muffins, besides several fancy Muffins, and that delicious breakfast accompaniment, “Muffin Bread.” Muffin Bread Pain Levé @ la Pate de Galette. 4 Eggs. % Pound of Butter. Scald the milk and add the butter. When it grows lukewarm, add the yeast, dissolved in about three tablespoonfuls of warm water. Add the salt and flour, and beat well for about ten minutes. Then set in a warm place over night. In the morning beat the yolks of the eggs well, and then the whites to a stiff froth; add the yolks and beat well, and then add the whites, and mix all thoroughly. Beat till very light, let it stand for about a@ quarter of an hour, and then bake in a buttered pan for about twenty minutes in a quick oven.

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Bread Muffins Galettes de Pain.

Left-over bread may be utilized in this way:

2 Pints of Stale Bread Crumbs. % Cup of Sifted Flour. 2 Eggs. Soak the stale bread crumbs in the milk for a half hour. Beat the yolks of the eggs till very light, and the whites to a stiff froth. Add a teaspoonful of salt to the bread, and then pour in the melted butter, and mix thoroughly. Add the flour, into which has been well sifted the making powder, and beat well. Lastly, add the whites of the eggs, and put the muffins into the muffin rings or gem pans, and bake for about a half hour in a quick oven.

Corn Meal Muffins Gatettcs de Farine de Mais. % Cup of Sifted Flour. 2 Eggs. 1% Cups of Buttermilk or Sweet Milk. 2 Spoonfuls of Butter.

\% Teaspoonftl of It.

Scald the meal. Scald the milk, and add the butter. When lukewarm add to the corn meal and beat well. Add the well beaten yolks of the eggs, and beat again. Add the flour, with which the baking powder has been fully blended. Mix well and add the whites Beat steadily for about ten minutes, and then pour into greased muffin rings or gem pans, and bake for twenty minutes in a quick oven. If buttermilk is used, add a teaspoonful of soda. dissolved in the milk. In making Muffins, if milk if not available, use lukewarm water, or half milk and half water, if possible. Cream Muffins. Galettea @ Ia Créme, 1 Pint of Flour. 3 Eggs.

1% Teaspoonfuls of Yeast Powder. Beat the whites and yolks of the eggs separately. Then add the cream and salt, and finally the flour, with which has been well blended the baking powder. Beat well and fill the muffin ring or gem pans one-half full. Place in a quick oven and bake for twenty minutes.: Egg Muffins Galettes auz Oeufe.

% Cake of Compressed Yeast, or 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. Prepare the Muffin batter as above. and set to rise over night. In the morning beat the eggs separately as above. Blend and beat till light. Then turn the muffin batter into greased muffin rings, and bake about twenty minutes in a hot oven. The Muffins must be eaten at once. Graham Muffins are made in exactly the same manner, only the Graham flour is used instead. Sometimes the Graham flour is mixed with the plain flour in the proportion of two cups of the former to one of the latter. In Plain Muffins the eggs are omitted. Hominy Muffins. Galettes de Saccamité, 2 Cups of Fine Hominy. 3 Eggs. % Cup of Melted Butter.

3 Cups of Fresh Milk or Sour Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of White Sugar. 2 Teaspoonfuls of Salt.

1 Teaspoonful of Soda, if Sour Milk is Used.

Mash the hominy through a steve, and then stir in the milk, salt, yeast powder and sugar. Add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light, and then the flour, well sifted. Lastly, add the froth,’ and bake in a quick oven for twenty minutes.

If buttermilk is used, add a half teaspoonful of soda, instead of the yeast powder. These muffins may alsc be made out of left-over corn meal. Queen Muffins Galettes a la Reine, 3 Cups of Flour. 3 Eggs.

1 Pint of Sweet Milk.

2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder or % ‘ake of Compressed Yeast.

If yeast is used, set the batter to rise over night, as in Egg Muffins, and then proceed in exactly the same manner, adding the eggs in the morning. Beat the eggs separately till very light, add to the batter, and pour into muffin rings or gem pans and let the mixture rise a half hour longer.

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——— ‘Then bake for twenty minutes in a quick oven. If baking powder. is used, beat the yolks of the eggs to a cream, add the scalded milk and butter, and add the flour. Beat till very light, and add the baking powder, and finally the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Turn into gem pans. or muffin rings, and bake for twenty minutes in a hot oven.

Quick Muffins Galettes @ la Vitesse.

\% Cake of Compressed Yeast, or 2 Teaspoonfuls of Baking Powder. Scald the milk, and add the butter. When it grows lukewarm, add the yeast, the flour and salt, and beat all well for about ten minutes. Then set the bowl in a warm place, cover with a cloth, and let the mixture rise for about two hours. When very light, beat well again, and add two eggs well beaten. Turn into muffin rings or gem pans, and let all rise a half hour longer. At the end of that time place them in the oven and bake for about twenty minutes. If baking powder is used, beat into the batter, and proceed to bake immediately. The Muffins may be baked in muffin rings, on a griddle, or as above indicated. Rice Muffins Galettes de Riz.

2 Cups of Boiled Rice.

1 Cup of Flour, 3 Eggs.

1% Pints of Milk.

1 Tablespoonfu! of Lard or Butter. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Sugar (May be omitted.) Mash the rice through a close sieve and beat the yolks very light, and add. Add the milk and butter, and then sift in the flour and half a teaspoonful of baking powder. Add the sugar and the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Add the salt, and bake in muffin rings in a quick oven, for about fifteen or twenty minutes. GEMS Petite.Bijouz.

Prepare the same batter as for Quick Muffins. Pour into gem pans, and bake for about twenty-five minutes. Graham Gems are made by using two cups of Graham meal to one cup of boiled rice or corn meal, or two cups of Graham flour to one of wheat flour, with the other ingredients in the same proportion as for Quick Muffins.

Corn Gems Petite Bijouz a la Farine de Mate, 4 Eggs. 1 Pint of Sweet Milk. 2 Tablespoonfuls of Baking Powder. Boil one-half of the milk and pour it over the corn meal. Add the butter instantly, and stir well. When thoroughly mixed add the cold milk and the well beaten yolks of the eggs. Add the salt and then the flour, into which has been well sifted the baking powder. Mix thoroughly, and then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Pour into greased or buttered gem pans, and bake about a half hour in a hot oven. Always remember to fill the pans only half full, leaving room for the batter to rise.

CRUMPETS Emiettes.

Scald the milk and set to cool. Add the salt, and gradually beat in the flour. Beat till very smooth, and add the yeast. Beat continuously for ten minutes and then set in a warm place to rise. After several hours beat well again, and add the melted butter. Mix thoroughly and then turn into greased muffin rings and bake till a beautiful brown, turning first on one side and then on the other. Send to the table very hot. Break open with your fingers and butter nicely. SALLY LUNN Pain @ la Vielle Tante Zoé. Sally Lunn is the same as the old breakfast dish known to the Creoles for generations as “Pain aA la Vielle Tante Zod.” Take 1% Pints of Flour.

% Cupful of Butter.

4 Eggs. 1 Teaspoonful of Salt. Warm the butter in a pint of milk till the milk reaches the boiling point.

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Do not let it boil. Simply scald. Then add the salt and a tablespoonful of sugar. Let it cool. When tepid add the flour, well sifted, and beat thoroughly into the mixture. Lastly add the yeast, dissolved in a little hot milk or water. Beat it continuously for at least five minutes. Then, when the batter begins to break into blisters, cover it and set to rise for the night. In the morning add the yolks of the eggs, beaten till very light, and the whites, beaten to a stiff froth. Mix carefully, and dissolve a half teaspoonful of soda in the mixture, if it seems anyway sour. Turn the whole into a shallow buttered dish, and set to rise for fifteen minutes longer. Bake about twenty or twenty-five minutes in a moderately quick oven, till it is a light brown.

This cake, like all muffin batter, should not be cut with a knife, but torn apart with your hands. If cut, all muffin batter at once becomes “heavy. The cake may be also mude much more quickly by mixing in the morning, using the above ingredients. only adding three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, instead of the yeast. Beat quickly and thoroughly, and turn into a buttered tin, and set to bake at once. Send to the table hot. WAFFLES Gaufres.

Waffles may be made of flour, rice, hominy or cornmeal. In all recipes for Waffles, if you have not the rhilk, substitute lukewarm water, and if you have no butter, use instead a half spoon of lard, but certainly the taste of the Waffles is much improved by the butter and milk, especially the butter. Half milk and half water, boiled and grown tepid, may also be used in the proportions indicated in the recipes.

Plain Waffles Gaufres de Froment.

2 Eggs. 2 Cups of Milk..

Sift the flour and salt and baking powder together. Beat the yolks of the eggs till very light. Add the melted butter to the milk, which should be scalded and grown lukewarm, and then mix in the whites of the eggs. Now add the flour gradually, making a nice, light batter. If it appears at all stiff, add a little more milk. Have your waffie irons ready, thoroughly heated. Have at hand a small brush or a stick with a piece of clean, fringed cloth wrapped sround the end. Dip this in a little melted lard, and brus’ over the iz. rior of the irons, till every part is greased. Pour the batter into a pitcher, so that you may the moré easily fill the irons. Fill until the elevations are lightly covered, then close the irons quickly and turn them over. Bake the Waffle about two minutes, or till a delicate brown. Carefully remove from the irons, place in a hot plate or waffie dish in the front of the oven, and proceed with the baking. Send to the table hot.

Cornmeal Waffies Gaufres de Farine de Mais. 1 Cup of Flour. 3 Eggs.

\% Teaspoonful of Soda. Dissolved in Hot Water.

Scald the milk and then add the well beaten yolks of the eggs. Add the milk and the soda, dissolved in a little hot water, and then add the melted butter and the whitcs of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Now add the flour, gradually making a nice batter, not too thick, nor yet too thin. Beat till all is very smooth and proceed to bake as above. Rice may be substituted for the flour, if you desire rice and cornmeal muffins; add about two tablespoonfuls of flour to bind.

Waffies of left-over grits may be prepared by adding one cup of grits to two of flour, and proceeding as above.

Potato Waffies Gaufres de Pommes de Terre. 1 Pint of Irish Potatoes.

1 Pint of Flour.

1% Pints of Milk.

Mash the boiled, left-over potatoes through a sieve, and then add the milk and the sifted flour.. Add the yeast, which has been well dissolved in a little warm water and set the whole to rise for two hours. At the end of that time add the eggs, beaten

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| RS separately, and mix well. Set to rise again for a half hour, till light, and then proceed to bake as in Plain Woaffies.

Sweet Potato Waffles,Gaufres de Patates Douces. 2 Cups of Mashed Sweet Potatoes. 1 Cup of Melted Butter.

1 Pint of Milk. 2 Eggs.

Mash the potatoes through a sieve, and add the eggs, beaten separately. Mix well, and add the sugar, and beat till very light. Then add the butter and beat again, and add the milk, mixing thoroughly. Now add the flour, using sufficient to make a thin batter that will bind the potatoes. Grease the waffle irons well, and proceed to bake as above indicated. Properly made, these waffles are delicious. Left-over potatoes may be thus utilized. The eggs may be omitted.

Rice Waffles Gaufres de Riz.

1 Cup of Boiled Rice.

1% Pints of Milk. 2 Eggs.

1 Cup of Flour or 2 Cups of Rice Flour. 2 Peaspoontuls of Baking Powder. Mash the rice through a sieve. Beat the yolks light, and add, and then add the salt, the baking powder and the milk. Beat well, and add the froth. Now add the rice flour to make a thin batter, and proceed to bake “as above. Be careful to grease the irons very well, so that the rice may not adhere. If white flour, rather than the rice flour, is used, mix in proportion two cups of boiled rice, instead of one.

Risen. Waffies Gaufree au Levain, 1% Quarts of Milk.

SEs.

Scald the milk, add the butter, and let it grow tepid. Sift the flour and salt together, and add the milk and -butter, and finally the yeast. Beat all continuously for five or ten minutes, and then cover well and set in a warm place for about two hours. Beat the whites and the yolks of the eggs separately, and add first the yolks to the batter, after it has risen well, and then add the whites. Beat in thoroughly, and set to rise again for about a quarter of an hour. Then beat lightly and pour into a pitcher. Prepare the waffle irons as indicated above, and proceed to bake in the same manner.

These Risen Waffles may also be made by mixing the flour, milk and salt and yeast together, and setting to rise over night. In the morning add the melted butter and the eggs, beaten separately, set to rise fifteen minutes longer, and proceed as above. BATTER CAKES Galettea de Pate.

2 Cups of Flour, Finely Sifted. 2 Cupfuls of Sweet Milk.

2 Tablespoonfuls of Baking Powder. Beat the whites and the yolks of the eggs separately, the former to a stiff froth. Add the flour to the yolks, and beat till very light. Add the baking powder and beat again. Then add the sweet milk and beat well. Now add the whites of the eggs and mix all to a very smooth, light batter, just so thick as to run in a slow stream from the mouth of the spoon. Have ready the hot griddle, which has been greased with lard lightly, or, better still, with a piece of fat bacon. Drop the cakes on the griddle from a large spoon, and bake about two minutes to a nice brown, turning first on one side and then quickly on the other. Pile the cakes on a plate in the mouth of the oven, buttering each generously as soon as baked, and send to the table almost as fast as ypu bake. These are the most delicate and delightful of all Griddle Cakes. They may also be made with sour milk, instead of sweet, in which case use a half teaspoonful of soda, instead of the baking powder. BUCKWHEAT CAKES Galettes de Sarraain.

3 Cups of Buckwheat Flour (Perfectly ure).

1% Pints of Sweet Milk or Water. Put in a small earthen crock, or pitcher, the warm milk or water, or half milk and half water, and then

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add the salt and the buckwheat flour. Beat till perfectly smooth, and then, when you have a atiff batter, add the yeast, dissolved in a little water. Beat this till smooth, and then cover well and set to rise over night. In the morning add a half teaspoonful of soda or saleratus, to remove any sourness that may have accrued during the night (this addition will also increase the lightness of the cakes). Bake on a griddle, like Batter Cakes.

Buckwheat Cakes are also often made by taking two cups of buckwheat flour, one cup of wheat flour, one teaspoonful of salt, three teaspoonfuls of baking powder, and mixing all together till very light, and baking immediately on griddies. Many, indeed, prefer them combined with the flour. This mixture may also be made as in the above recipe, by using compressed yeast, and setting to rise over night. A _ tablespoonful of butter may also be added if desired. Serve with syrup.

FLANNEL CAKES Galetics de Pate au Levain. 1 Pint of Milk. 2 Eggs.

Heat the milk, and when it grows tepid add the yeast, dissolved in a little hot milk or water, and flour sufficient to make a stiff batter. Set to rise over night, or for at least three hours in the morning. After this, add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light, and the melted butter, and mix well. Then add the whites beaten to a stiff froth. Beat well, and then bake on a griddle, as in the above recipe for Batter Cakes.

Be sure to make the batter stiff enough at the start to allow for the mixing in of the eggs and butter in the morning. When once the cakes have risen, no flour must be added, unless the cakes are set to rise for an hour again.

Sweet Flannel Cakes are made by adding a half cup of sugar. These are nice for tea.

Again, Flannel Cakes may be made without yeast, by using one pint of buttermilk and one teaspoonful of soda. The batter is then made in the morning without setting to rise over night, and is baked on the griddle immediately after mixing. Omit the butter in these buttermilk cakes. They will be very light and spongy without the butter.

GRIDDLE CAKES Gateaur a la Plaque.

3 Cups of Sour Milk or Warm Water. 3 Eggs, Beaten Very Light. Mix the flour and meal and pour on the milk or warm water. Make a batter somewhat stiffer than for Buckwheat Cakes, and add the eggs, well beaten, the whites and yolks separately, and finally add the soda, dissolved in a little warm water. Bake on a griddle, making the cakes large and generous. Serve with syrup. Bread Griddle Cakes Gateauz de Pain @ la Plaque. 1 Quart of Boiling Milk.

2 Cups of Fine Bread Crumbs. Stale bread may be used for this recipe. Soak the bread in the boiling milk, and as it cools beat it to a very smooth paste. Then add the yolks of the eggs, beaten very light, and the soda, dissolved in a little warm water. Finally add the whites of the eggs. beaten to a stiff froth, and a half cupful of sifted flour to bind well. Bake on a hot griddle, and butter and serve with Molasses or Syrup.

Cornmeal Griddle Cakes.

Géateauz de Farine de Maia @ la Plaque. 1 Teaspoontul of Salt.

3 Cups of Sour Milk or Warm Water. Scald the meal and mix with the milk. Add the flour, into which the salt has been well mixed. Beat the eggs very light and add, and when all has been beaten very light add a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little warm water. Bake on a griddle toa nice brown. If sweet milk is used, be careful to add, instead of the soda, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder.

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‘WHE PICAYUNE CREOLE COOK BOOK Graham flour, which is now used so much, may be made into griddle cakes, using two cups of the flour to one of wheat flour, and adding also one large tablespoonful of lard or butter. Cook as other Griddle Cakes on a hot griddle.

Hominy Griddle Cakes.

Géteaur de Saccamité @ la Plaque 2 Cups of Hominy.

3 Cups of Sour Milk or Warm Water. Boil and mash the hominy, or utilize left-over hominy. Add the flour, with which the salt has been well mixed. Beat the eggs very light, and add, and when all has been beaten very light add a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little warm water. Bake on a griddle to a nice brown. If sweet milk is used, be careful to use, instead of the soda, two teaspoonfuls of baking powder. Serve with Molasses or Syrup.

French Griddle Cakes.

Géteaus de Plaque @ la Francaise 1% Pints of Sifted Flour.

1 Ounce of Sugar.

sugar very light; then add the flour and melted butter, and then add the warm milk. Beat all till very light. Add a half teaspoonful of baking powder, and then add the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat all till very smooth. Drop a tablespoonful at a time upon the hot griddle; turn quickly and bake on the other side, allowing about two minutes in all; place on a hot platter, butter well and spread with jelly, then roll up, dust with powdered sugar and serve Green Corn Griddle Cakes Gateaus de Mais Tendre a la Plaque. 1 Quart of Finely-Grated Green Corn. a 1 Pint of Milk. 4 Eggs.

Beat the eggs separately, and then udd the yolks, well beaten, to the corn. Add the salt, melted butter and the milk, and mix well. Then add sufficient flour to make a thin batter, and finally the whites of the eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Bake on a hot griddle, butter generously, and serve very hot. This is a great Creole cake, and very delicious.

Rice Griddle Cakes.

Gateausr de Riz & la Plaque. 2 Cups of Boiled Rice.

1 Cup of Flour. 2 Eggs.

1 Pint of Milk or Water.

1 Teaspoonful of Sugar.

Mash the rice through a sieve. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt together, and add the sugar to the milk. Add this to the flour and mix in the rice till free from any lumps. Then add the eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, and mix into a very smooth batter. Have the griddle well heated. Bake the cakes to a nice brown, and serve with Syrup. PUFFS.

Soupiés.

1 Pint of Sweet Milk.

Beat the whites and the yolks separately till very, very Nght. Warm the milk and add the melted butter. When cold, mix with the yolks of the eggs, and add the flour and salt, beating till very light. Now add the whites Stir lightly, turn into buttered tins, tilling each about half full, and bake to a light brown.

CRACKNELS, Craquelins.

2 Cups of Rich Milk.

1 Gill of Yeast.

Scald the milk and add the butter, and let it grow tepid. Then add the yeast and dissolve well. Add the salt, and now add the flour sufficient to make a light dough. Set to rise, and when twice its bulk work lightly, and roll out very thin, and cut into pieces about two and a half inches square. Stick well with a fork through and through, and bake in a slow oven, as you would soda crackers,

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LS HOME-MADE YEAST.

Levain de Ménage.

6 Large Potatoes.

A Handful of Hops.

3 Pints of Water.

4 Cup of Yeast.

Flour Sufficient to Make a Batter. Cornmeal to Blend.

Wash six large potatoes, and pare them, then boil them in about three pints of water. Tie a handful of hops in a muslin bag, and boil them with the potatoes. When these are thoroughly cooked, drain off the water, mix it with sufficient flour to make a good batter, and set the mixture on the stove for a few minutes, till the flour is well scalded. Do not let it boil or simmer under any consideration. Take it from the fire, and let it cool. Then mash the potatoes and add them to the flour, and add a half cup of sugar and a half cup of yeast. Let it stand in a warm place till it has thoroughly risen. Then add cornmeal that has been sifted and dried, and knead well, until you have a dough thick enough to roll out, and that will crumble when dry. Cut this dough into cakes, spread them on a board and put them in the shade to dry. Keep the yeast in a box in a dry place.

This mixture may be also kept and used as a liquid by simply stopping when you have come to the point where you must add the cornmeal. Let the mixture then stand in a warm place till it has thoroughly risen. Then scald a large jar, wipe dry, and put in the yeast. Cover tight, and keep in a cool place. One-third of a cupful of yeast will make two loaves of bread.

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CHAPTER XLVIII Suitable Combinations for Serving Déjeuner The home breakfast is generally a modest repast, consisting frequently of such hors d’oeuvres as Cress, Radishes, etc.,, with some cereal (served with milk), beefsteak or fish, with potatoes, and one of many kinds of breads or griddle cakes, waffles or muffins. In Creole households fruits are always served first at breakfast, and generally raw.

Cereals for Breakfast.

Grits, Hominy, Oatmeal, Cracked ‘Wheat, Cornmeal Mush, Farina, Cerealine, heatena, etc. All these may be served with cream, milk, milk and sugar, or with gravies.

Vegetables for Breakfast.

Radishes, Cress, Sliced Cucumbers, Lettuce, Sliced Raw Tomatoes, Potatoes cooked according to any of the many recipes herein, Stewed Tomatoes, Fried Sweet Potatoes, are all served at breakfast. the raw vegetables as hors d'oeuvres, ‘Warm Breakfast Dishes.

Broiled Tenderloin, Sirloin, Broiled Chops, Chicken, Ham, Fish, Fried Liver and Bacon, Fried Pork Tenderloin or Chops, Fried Pigs’ Feet, Grillades, Veal Cutlets Breaded, Sausage, Stewed Tripe, Stewed Kidneys, all kinds of Hash (turkey, chicken, mutton, veal, beef, cornbeef or otherwise), all kinds of Meat, Fowl and Fish Croquettes, Codfish Balls, Creamed Codfish, Creamed Chicken, Stewed Meats, Eggs in every variety ot cooking (such as boiled, fried, scrambled, poached, on toast), Fried Ham and Eggs, Omelets, etc.

Breakfast Breads and Cakes Any of the numberless varieties of Breads and Cakes, besides the Bakers’ Bread, so generally used in New Orleans, such as Rolls, Biscuit, Muffins, Waffies, Corn Cakes, Griddle Cakes, Batter Cakes, Corn Bread, Muffin Bread, Sweet Potato Bread, Fritters, etc. Breakfast Beverages Coffee (Café Noir and Café au Lait), Chocolate, Cocoa and Tea (if preferred) may all be served as breakfast beverages.

Hers d’Oeuvres for Breakfast These include Radishes, Canapés, Sliced Cucumbers, Sliced Raw Tomatoes, Lettuce, and in general any hors d’oeuvres that may be served at dinner. Gofkter.

Perhaps no meal admits of such infinite variety as luncheon. Almost anything may be served for luncheon, from cold left-over meats, fish, etc., and all hors d'oeuvres and salads to desserts. Tea, coffee, cocoa, chocolate, iced lemonade, and almost all cold summer drinks, as well as fruits, are served acceptably at luncheon. Hot or cold bread may be served, as all sorts of breakfast cakes and syrups.

The order of service varies. For instance, fruits may be served at the beginning of the meal, or as a dessert at the close, and so also with watermelons and muskmelons.

Diner The Creoles divide dinners into three classes: The dinner of one course, of two courses, and of three courses. The first they havg appropriately named “Ambigu,” because {it admits of all dishes being brought to the table at the same time, from the soups to the desserts, with most informal service. Among wealthy classes, the “Ambigu” is a dinner served hastily at night, after a theater or an opera party, but among the poorer classes the “Ambigu” is made a very pleasant meal. Hors d’oeuvres and such desserts as cakes and fruits are placed on the table before the family is seated, and the soup is served as a “Relevé,” all the other dishes, from the roasts to the entrées and entremets and entremets s"crés and salad, being placed on the table at the same time. Jellies, fruits and cake compensate for the absence of elaborate desserts, and the vegetables and sauces are few. Properly served, as is done daily in many a Creole home, an “Ambigu” may become an elegant repast, though the viands are plain and simple.

In dinners of two courses the soup Is again the ‘‘Relevé,’ and the fish or

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* Pickled meats and all the vegetables, entremets and entrées, and also the salad, constitute the first course. Salads, as a rule. should always be served with the roasts. The desserts constitute the second course.

In dinners of three courses, following always the French order ot arrangement, which has ever been observed in elegant Creole homes, the manner of service is this:

First Course—Soup or Gumbo, Hors d’Oeuvres.

Second Course—Fish (and with fish are always served potatoes in some form), Relevés (where another dish is desired), Entr&es, Coup de Millieu (a middle iced drink), R6étis or Roasts, Vegetables, Entremets, Salads, mets Sucrés.

Third Course—Desserts, Compotes, Puddings, Pies, Cakes, Pieces Montées. Ices, Fruits, Petit Fours, Cheese, Cof‘ee, EntreSuitable Dishes for Courses Hors d’Ocuvres Relishea.

These may be either hot or cold, but ordinarily only cold hors d'oeuvres are used and are passed as appetizers or relishes between the courses. Cold Hors d’Oeuvres—Radishes, Celery, Olives, Cress, Lettuce, Roquette, Onions, Sliced Cucumbers, Sliced Tomatoes, Pickles, Mangoes, Melons, Anchovies, Sardines, yonnaise Sausage (Saucissons Lyonnalse). Bread and Butter, Crackers, Anchovy Sandwiches, Bologna Sausage cut and sliced, Cold Ham, Pigs’ Feet, a Crawfish Bush (Buisson d'Ecrevisses), a Shrimp Bush (Buisson de Chevrettes), Boiled Crawfish, River Shrimp on Ice, Oysters on Half Shell, Raw Oysters, Sliced or Quartered Lemon, Salted Almonds, Salted Peanuts, Canapés of Caviar, Ham, Crab, etc.

Hot Hors d’Oeuvres—Petits Patés au Jus (or small hot patties of meats, etc.). Boudins Noirs et Blancs (Boudin Sausages, white and black), Rissoles, Sausages with or without Truffies, Rognons a la_Brochette, or Broiled Kidneys, Pigs’ Feet, Bouches d'Huitres or oyster patties, Fried Brains (whether of mutton or veal), Calves’ Feet, Oxtail ‘with Vinegar or Mustard Sauce. Entréen Entrées are side dishes, and are served between the courses, immediately following the fish, and always preceding the roast. Entrées comprise all Stews, Ragodts, Salmis, Matelotes, Vol-au-Vents, Cutlets, Sweetbreads, Rissoles, Compotes of Meats, Fowl! or Fish, Filets of Veal or Beef Sauté, etc.: all Daubes, whether of Meat, Fowl or Pigeons; Poulet au Riz, Poulet Sauté aux Champignons ou aux Petits Pois. Relevés Relevés are side dishes added to a course when it is desired to serve another dish. They comprise Filets of Beef or Veal, Boiled Meats with many rarnishes, Brochettes of Kidneys or Liver, Capons and Poulardes cooked These Various with Rice, Poulet au Riz, Patés de Foles Gras, Loin of Veal, Knuckle of Veal, Sirloin Steak, etc.; Soft-Shell Crabs, Stuffed Crabs, etc.

Entremets These are of two kinds, Vegetable Entremets and Sweet Entremets. The former comprise all vegetables, and one ortwo are always served with an entrée; the remainder are brought on with the roasts. Potatoes are always served with fish, and are good with all meats. With fowls they are best mashed. Sweet potatoes are served with all roasts, especially Roast Pork; Onions. Squash, ‘ucumbers, aragus, Egsplants are excellent with roast meats Carrots, Parsnips, Turnips, Pumpkin. Greens, Cabvage, are good with boiled meats. Corn, Green Peas, Beets, Peas, Beans, may be served with either boiled or roast meats. Mashed Turnips are appropriate to Roast Duck, Roast Pork and Mutton, and boiled meats, such as Boiled Mutton. Tomatoes and Green Peppers are served with every kind of meats. Green Peas are nice served with Young Spring Lamb, Sweetbreads, Filets of Veal or Beef, Spring Chicken. etc. Spinach is_a proper accompaniment to veal. Lemons cut into dice may be served with all fowls and fish. Sweet Entremets These comprise all kinds of Fritters or Beignets, various sweet Omelets, and Fruits cooked in divers manners. (See chapter on Sweet Entremets.) Fritters. etc., are served in the middle of the course, often just before the Coup de Millleu, with the entrées. Sweet Entremets such as Omelette Souffié, always precede the dessert, being served immediately after the roasts.

Roasts These comprise all manner of Roast Meats, Poultry, Game etc. The Salads are always brought to the table and served with the Roasts.

Desserts These comprise all manner of Comotes, Pies, Puddings, Cakes, Jellies and armalades, Preserves, Fruits, Ices, Petits Fours, Bonbons, etc. Cheese and Nuts.are brought to the table with the Desserts. Coffee is served as a finale to all dinners, banquets and suppers. How to Utilise Left-Over Food Never throw away scraps of bread or broken crusts or stale bread. Take all the broken pieces and brown them in the stove, and roll them on the bread board till grated fine, and sift through a coarse sieve. Again roll the crumbs that remain in the sieve, and sift as before. Put them all into a jar and cover, and keep them for use 1n cooking. A box of bread crumbs for dishes pre: pared “au Gratin” is indispensable in a kitchen Left-over stale bread is also used in making Bread Puddings, Bread Muffins. Queen Pudding, etc.

Use all broken pieces of cakes in making puddings, such as Banana Soufflé, and all Cake Puddings. All. cold left-over mashed potatoes may be used for making Croquettes or Puffs or Quenelles of Potatoes. Cold

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be utilized otatoes or boiled potatoes left over ma. in preparing Lyonnaise French Fri Potatoes.

Left-over Greens may be used in making Salads. Left-over fish and chicken may be used in making Fish or Chicken salad & la Mayonnaise. Left-over meat, whether veal, mutton or beef, may be used in making Hash Croquettes or Boulettes. Save all fat drippings and bits of fat meat and bacon skin. The former are excellent for frying fritters and doughnuts and pancakes; the latter for greasing the griddle for corn cakes, etc. eep all coarse, rough ends of beefsteak or sirloin, or the ends of tenderloin steaks. They make excellent stews or _croquettes or meat balls. The remains of yesterday's roast beef or mutton may be utilized in croquettes for breakfast, or cold meat for luncheon.

Remains of turkey or chicken or rabbit may be used in making Gumbos. Save all left-over rice for Riz au Lalt, griddle cakes, Calas, Jambalaya, etc.:

All left-over cold boiled meat from soup may be used for Beef Hash. ¢ hen you have finished with the ham bone, do not throw it away, but after chipping all the meat off for ‘Frizzled Ham,” Bon the bone with cabbage or turnip or other vegetable greens, or with red or white beans or lentils. It gives a flavor to these dishes that they would not have otherwise.

Keep all the green parts of the Celery tips that are not used for a table decoration when celery is served and use for flavoring for soups, salads, stews, etc.

Turnips and beans left over from yesterday may be made into a purée for dinner next day.

Keep all pieces of Plain or Puff Paste that are trimmed from tne ples or patties. Roll them over again, cut into squares, and serve at supper with preserves spread over them. Or simply put in the ice box and use the next day in making Rissoles with left-over meat. When making Gold Cake, save the whites of the eggs for Silver Cake. Or they may be used for making Angel Cake, Apple Snow, and all other forms of desserts in which Meringues are called for.

Finally, do not waste anything in the kitchen, Our grandmothers scrupulously saved every piece of bone or fat, and these were utilized in making soft soap. The careful housekeeper will manage to keep out of debt and set a good table, with much variety, on a small allowance, by faithfully saving and utilfzing the left-overs.

Invalid Cookery It has not been thought necessary to add a chapter on “Invalid Cookery” i this book, as all Creoles know how to Prepare dainty articles of diet for the sick. Invalid cookery, moreover, does not differ much from the general household cookery, and all recipes given in this book for Bouillons, Oyster Soups, delicate Purées, Chicken Broth, Toasts, Broiled Chicken and Birds, Broiled Tenderloin Steak, delicate Custards, such as Milk Custards, Riz au Lait, Blanc Mange, Jellies, Gruels, Porridge, Egg Toasts, Fruit Waters, Mint Julips, Cobblers, Egg Nogg, Blackberry Cordials, ete.; delicate ways of serving oranges and other fruits—in fact, almost anything that may be ordered by a physician, from a Beef Broth or Oyster Soup to Milk Toast or Charlotte Russe, may be found in The Times-Picayune Creole Cook Book. Reference has only to be made to the index, and with a slight reduction of quantity in all proportions, say about one-fourth, for a dish intended for one person, the foods may be prepared.

The serving is the most important point after cooking. Never crowd a tray intended for an invalid. Spread a dainty napkin on the salver. Arrange the food in a most appetizing way, lay a rosebud or a flower fresh from the garden on the waiter, and bring in the dainty, tempting morsel with a happy, cheery smile, though your heart may be sinking. The dish, in nine cases out of ten, will not fail to please, while your sunny smile will encourage the patient, and make him feel that his recovery is certain. Then the battle is half won.

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CHAPTER XLIX VARIETIES OF SEASONABLE FOODS The Creoles have an old adage that “Nature itself tells us what to eat,” in the various vegetables and fruits of each season, and in the varieties of fish and fresh meat that are particularly adapted to each clime. As the months wane, and a new season dawns, the Creole housekeeper, even of unlimited means, far from trusting entirely to servants to do the marketing, makes it her duty to take a leisurely stroll through the Market, where all the first fruits, vegetables, fish and game of the season are to be found, and she takes her own mental notes, and knows just what to order when her cook comes for the daily interview.

For the convenience of housekeepers generally, however, we will close this Creole Cook Book by {ving the varieties of seasonable foods to be found in our latitude for each month of the year. By a simple daily reference to this list, the housewife may at once make her selections for the home menu. With slight modifications the list may be useful in any latitude. Again, to facllitate the choice of the housekeeper as to viands, a daily menu is given for one week, as also for great festivals, such as Christmas, New Year’s, Easter and Thanksgiving Day.

Foods From January to December JANUARY Beef, Mutton, Pork, Lamb.

Seasonable De la Volatlle.

Turkey, Chicken, Capons, Geese, Domestic Ducks, Pigeons, Guinea Fowl. Giier.

Canvas-back Ducks, Mallard Ducks, Sguab, Bécassine or Snipe, Bécasses or oodcock, Partridge, Quail, Venison, and a variety of small birds, Rabbit, are, Squirrel and Poule d’Eau. Redfish, Redsnapper, Flounder, Sheepshead,,Spanish ackerel, Pompano, Grouper, Green Trout, River Trout, Sneckled Trout, Croakers, Bluefish, Sacalait, Patassas, Green Turtle, Diamondback Terrapin, Frogs, Oysters, Hard-shell Cra b, Soft-shell Crab, Lak Shrimp, River § ° brimp, Crawfish.

Fresh Vevetables may be had as follows: Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Chervil, Celery, Cress, Corn Salad, Cauliflower, Endive or Chicoree, Spinach, Salsity, Sorrel, Lettuce, Parsley, Parsnips, Radish, Roquette for salad, Mustard for salad, Turnips, Leeks and Rutabage. Fraits Fresh fruits: Bananas, Pears, Apples, Oranges, Grapes Lemons, Pineapples, Cranberries.

| FEBRUARY Des Viandea.

Beef, Mutton, Pork, Lamb.

Turkey, Capons, Chickens, Guinea Fowl, eese, Domestic Ducks and: Pigeons. H Canvas-back D ucks, Mallard Teal Duck, Squa Ducks, b, Becassine Becasse or Woodcock, Partrid; ce, une Wild Turkey, Wild Geese, Rabbit, | Squirrel, Poule d’Eau, Venison. Redfish, Redsnapper, Flounder, Spanish Mackerel, Sheepshead, Green’ Trout Speckled Trout, Croakers, Bluefish, Green Turtle, Diamond-back Terrapin, Frogs, Oysters, Hard-shell Crab, Softshell Crab, Lake Shrimp, River Shrimp, Crawfish.

Beets, Carrots, Cabbage, Chervil, ery, Cress, Cornsalad, malifiowen, a dive or Chicoree, Spinach, Salsify, Sorrel, Lettuce, Parsley, Parsnips, ish, Roquette, Mustard, Turnips, Leeks. Rutabaga.

Fraits Des Fruite..

Bananas, Pears, Apples, Oran; Grapes, Lemons, Pineapples, Cranber. Tv le.

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—————__ eVu=__eE=EeEE TC PICAYUNE CREOLE COOK BOOK SsnSsEISTEnnnnn On MARCH Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, Pork. De la Volaille.

Turkey, Ducks and Pigeons (domestic), Geese, Chickens, Capons, Young Pullets.

All the game common to February The first Pompano of the season used to appear in March. It was much sought after. Of late years it has become so abundant that it Is now shipped during every month of the year to every part of the Union.

we have also Redfish, Redsnapper. Spanish Mackerel, Flounders, Trout, Croakers, Bluefish, Grouper, Saccalalt, Patassas, Sheepshead, Perch, Hard-shell Crab, Soft-shell Crab, Oysters, Green Turtie, Terrapin, Lake and River Shrimp, Crawfish.

All_the above-mentioned Vegetables for February are to be found in the market in March, with the addition of Green Peas. The_ large Marrowfat Green Peas are hardy, and are planted from October to the end of March, while the little French Pea (Petit Pois) ig more subject to damage from freeze, and is planted during January, and until Apr 1, ripening a crop in from forty to sixty days, ing to weather and cultivation.

The vegetables for the month stand accord:

as follows: New Green Peas, Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Chervil, Celery, Cress, Cornsalad, Cauliflower, Endive, Spinach, Salsify, Sorrel, Lettuce, Parsley, Parsnips, Roquette, Mustard, Turnips, Leeks, Rutabaga., The first Strawberries appear early in March, having been ripened at the end of February, when the blossom escapes the freezes that begin regularly in February. Oranges, Bananas, Pineapples, etc., are plentiful. APRIL Beef, Veal, Mutton, Pork, Lamb, Spring Lamb. (This is Lamb born during the winter and reared under shelter, and fed almost entirely on milk. It is killed in the spring, generally at Easter time, and is a regular accompaniment of the Creole Easter dinner. It is a great delicacy, for Lamb that is not res six months old makes good eating.

In FebruaryDe ta Volatile.

Chicken, Young Guinea Fowl, Green Geese, Young Ducks, Capons. Fi Pompano, Spanish Mackerel, Redsnapper, Redfish, Bluefish, Grouper, Sea Trout, Brook Trout, Croakers, Perch, Saccalait, Patassas, Green Turtle, Frogs’ Legs, Hard-shell Crab, Soft-Shell Crab, Poule d’Eau.

Oysters begin to grow milky in the latter part of April, when kept standing for any length of time, and are, consequently, not eaten by the Creoles, unless they are at the lakeside, where the toothsome bivalve is taken directly from the waters. From April till September, following the old adage that Oysters are good in every month in which an “R” occurs, the Oysters will disappear from this list of seasonable fish. Nevertheless, in nearly all the large restaurants of New Orleans they are served.

Gibter Mallard Ducks, Canvas-back wucks, Spring Teal Ducks, Squabs, Snipe, Woodcock, Partridges.

This is a most interesting month in the New Orleans markets. e have all the staple articles from the open ground, but besides Green.sweet) Peppers, Tomatoes and Eggplants, sown in November, and kept under glass unti late in March, make their appearance at this time. The general crop of Green Peas is now in the market, and within the range of everybody's purse’ New Potatoes are quite plentiful. Snap Beans are _ gradually gettin cheaper, and the thousands of bushe boxes go by express every day to Northern points. Early Corn and Artichokes, from the Lower Coast of Louisiana, arrive with every boat. The market_ stands: New Potatoes, New Green Peas, Early Corn, Sweet Green Peppers, New_ Tomatoes, Eggplants, Hot Peppers, Snap Beans, and all the vegetables mentioned in the list for March. (See March Vegetables.) The Japan Plum, also called the Medlar, or Loquet, and in familiar Creole Mespilus, ripens in the beginning of April, while the Mariana Plum comes in about the middle of April, if the weather is good. Strawberries are now plentiful and cheap. Dewberries and Blackberries are brought in by the negroes in large quantities, and are sold on the streets. We have also a continued abundance of Apples, Oranges, Bananas, Pineapples, etc. MAY Meatr Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, Pork.

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ee De la Volaille.

* Spring Chickens, Young Ducks, Chickens, Capons, Green Geese, Young Turkey. (Dindonneau; considered a great delicacy).

Potsson.

The same as for the month of April. During the month of May the New Orleans markets are fairly glutted with Snap Beans, Green Peas, Peas, Lentils, Cucumbers, Young Onions, Potatoes, ete. Tomatoes and Eggplants that have ripened in the open ground fill the stalls. Cabbage, which does not resist much heat or drought, grows scarce, as also celery. Otherwise the vegetables continue in abundance, the same as found in the list for March. (See March Vegetables.) Young Squash makes its appearance this month, and is plentiful. The first Muskmelons arrive in New Orleans from the parishes and gardens around the city towards the middle of May, and ‘atermelons come in fine and juicy at the end of the month. Carloads of Créole Onions and New Potatoes are shipped North.

Gidier The game laws now begin to be enforced, and, with the exception of Sand Snipe and Reed Birds, we have little game until the 1st of September, when the hunting season opens.

The first peaches ripen together with the large-fruited Plums. In a week or so these fruits overrun the market. Figs begin to ripen towards the end of the month, if the weather has been warm during April. Oranves. Bananas, Pineapples, etc., continue plentiful. JUNE Dea Viandes.

Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, but Pork is éschewed In New Orleans from June to about October or November, as, from hygienic principles, it should never be eaten In warm weather.

* Spring Chickens, Chickens, Young Turkeys, Pigeons.

Geese, The famous Pababotte makes its apPourance this month, and remains a deightful article of food till the middle of October. In the months of August and September they are very fat and excellent and always much_prized ly epicures and connoisseurs. Reed Birds, Grassets, Robins, Larks, which are the terror of the rice planters, appear in abundance, and overrun the market. The same as for the month of April. Melons are gradually gaining the first place in the market, and are shipped to all points. Peas are beginning to wet scarce. Celery is now supplied by the Northern markets and is found in abundance. Butterbeans and Lima Beans appear in the market, and are in great demand, especially the Butterbeans. The market stands: Butterbeans, Snap Beans, Green Peas, Celery, Lima Beans, Beets, Carrots, Chervil, Cress, Cornsalad, Cauliflower, Corn, Endive, Spinach, Salsify, Sorrel, Lettuce, Parsley, Parsnips, Radish, Roquette, Mustard, Turnips, Leeks and Rutabaga. Peaches and Plums arrive in large uantities. The Lecomte Pears and rapes ripen quickly under the hot rays of the June sun, and are soon within reach of everyone's purse. Figs are plentiful, and are being bought up by the canning establishments, but almost all the older homes of New Orleans have fig trees in their gardens or yards, and the luscious tropical fruit is within the reach of all. Strawberries, Blackberries, Dewberries, Bananas, Oranges. Pineapples, Muskmelons, Cantaloupes, Watermelons, which may be justly classed under the heading of fruits, because they are eaten as such for desserts in New Orleans, are everywhere in abundance.

JULY Beef, Mutton, Lamb, Veal.

Chickens, Young Geese, Spring Chicxens, Pigeons.

Pababotte, Reed Birds, Grassets, Robins, Larks, Quail.

The same supplies as for the month of April. (See April Fish.) Dea Légumes, To use the familiar saying of the New Orleans dealers, ‘The Watermelon is now the boss of the market.” It is placed on ice and eaten at any hour of the day, being most cooling and refreshing. Vegetables ‘produced with much hard work cannot now compete with the popularity of the Watermelon, which ig a favorite with all classes,

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and is put on the market in enormous uantities. Carloads arrive each da rom the parishes and from the truc! farms around New Orleans, and they are bought up' as fast as offered. One famous specimen, recently called the “Triumph,” ‘weighing from ninety to one hundred pounds, was found to be as sweet as honey. Other vegetables are the same as in June. (See June.) Pears, Grapes and Peaches continue in abundance. The Fig is everywhere, and Strawberries, Blackberries, Oranges and Pineapples are cheap. | Lemons are in great demand, the Creoles using large quantities of the cooling Iced Lemonade all during the summer months.

AUGUST Des Viondes.

Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb.

Chicken, Young Geese, Young Guinea Fowl, Pigeons.

Papabotte, Reed Birds. Grassets, Robins, rks, Squab.

The same supplies as for the month of June, (See June Fish.) Snap Beans, Peas, Eggp‘ant. Squash, Cucumber, Corn, Lettuce, Carrots, Beets, Parsnips, Spinach, Potatoes, Tomatoes, Butterbeans, Lima Beans, Onions, Shallots, Green Peppers, Broccoli, Caullflower.

August is the Poorest of_all months for vegetables. he Snap Beans begin to get hard and stringy; and the lettuce soft under the rays of the sun. But people are quite content. Melons continue in abundance, and the markets are stocked with fruits, and all know that in a month there will be ® new erop of autumn vegetables. Peaches, Pears, Plums, Grapes, Figs, Mespilus, Oranges, Bananas, Pineapples, Lemons, Grape Fruit, are all in abundance.

SEPTEMBER Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb.

De la Volaille.

Chicken, Young Turkeys, uinea Fowl, Pigeons, Domestic Gibter Woodcock, Snipe, Larks, Wild Ducks, Canvas-back Ducks, Partridges, Quail, Squab, Mallard Ducks and Teal Ducks are rare.

Pompano, Redsnapper, Redfish, Spanish Mackerel, Flounder, Grouper, Bluetish, Sheepshead, Trout, Croakers, Green Turtle, Terrapin, Frogs, Hard-shell Crab, Soft-shell Crab, Lake Shrimp, Crawfish. The Oyster is with us again, and remains a delightful article of food till the latter part of April. Dea Léguines.

Potatoes, Turnips, Artichokes, Peas, Reans, Carrots, Onions, Tomatoes, Salsify, Mushrooms, Lettuce, Sorrel, Celery, Brussels Sprouts, Cauliflower, Sweet Potatoes, Squash, Eggplant, Cucumber, Green Pepper, Parsnips, Cress.

Fruits throughout September continue the same as in August, with still more generous supplies of Oranges, Bananas and Pineapples.

OCTOBER Des Viandee.

Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, Pork. De la Volatlle.

Turkey. Chicken, Spring Chicken, Geese, Guinea Fowl, Domestic Duck, Pigeons.

Venison, Canvas-back Duck, Woodcock, Snipe, Partridge, Quail, Reed Birds, Larks, Grassets, Robins, Squab, Mallard and Teal Ducks continue to be rare till November.

Pompano, Redsnapper, Redfish, Spanish Mackerel, Sheepshead, Flounder, Grouper, Bluefish, Trout, Croakers, Green Turtle, Terrapin, Poule d’Eau, Frogs, Hard-shell Crab, Soft-shell Crab, Lake Shrimp, Crawfish, Oysters. Snap Beans and Green Corn sown in the end of August and early in September, are with us again in abundance. Radishes are juicy and brittle. Turnips are young and tender, and appear on time, to serve with “Salmi of W'ld Ducks.” Blood Beets and Young Carrots add to the assortment of vegetables, which gradually increase and assume the diversity of the crops of the carly sprine, Ali the vegetables that are found under the lists for March and April are again with us in_ October. (See lists for March and April.)

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The first Louisiana Oranges from the spring budding appear in the market this month, the Creole and the Satsumas being the first to ripen. Other fruits are Peaches, Pears, Plums, Grapes, Oranges, Bananas, Pineapples and some late Figs.

NOVEMBER Beef, Veal, Mutton, Lamb, Pork. Turkey, Chickens, Spring Chickens, Domestic Ducks and Pigeons. Canvas-back Ducks, Wild Ducks of many varieties, Woodcock, Snipe, Partridges, Robins, Larks, Reed Birds, Quail, Rabbits, Hares, Squirrel, Venison, Teal Ducks and Mallard Ducks are abundant. Poule d@’Eau appears in November.

All varieties found under the lst for October hold good for November. (See list for October.) The market is now splendid with a variety of vegetables, principally Snap Beans, New Corn, Butterbeans, Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Chervil, Celery, Cress, Cornsalads, Cauliflower, Endive, Spinach, Salsify, Sorrel, Lettuce, Parsley. Parsnips, Roquette, Mustard, Turnips, Leeks, Rutabaga, Brocoll.

In new varieties we have now the second crop of New Potatoes, that were planted by the farmers in August. The rooked-neck Pumpkin, or Cashaw, is with us, and is in demand, as also the Globe Pumpkin. The Sweet Potatoes continue to arrive in abundance. The first New Cabbage reaches the market, as also New Lettuce, Spinach, Turnips, Kohlrabi, so much eaten by the Italian population, and other vegetables are most plentiful and cheap.

DECEMBER Des Viandea.

Beef, Veal, Mutton, Pork.

Turkeys, Chickens, Spring Chickens, Capons, Geese, Domestic Ducks, Guinea Fowl.

Venison, Snipe, Woodcock, Partridge. Robins, Grassets, Larks, Squab, Canvasback Ducks, Mallard Ducks, Teal Ducks, Quail, Rabbits, Hare, Squirrel and a number of game of good varieties. All fish common to the New Orleans’ markets in the months of January and November hold for December. Fish now has an excellent flavor, and is found daily on our tables.

All vegetables common to November (See list) are plentiful in December. Fraits All fruits common to November (see lists) are to be had in December. It is the holiday season and the markets are abundantly supplied.

In the Groceries at All Seasons Canned Beef, Corned Beef, Chipped Beef, Canned Beef and Pork Tongue, Ham, Salt Pork, Deviled Ham, Breakfast Bacon, Pigs’ Feet, Sausages, Lyonnaise Sausage, Hogs’ Head Cheese, Extract of Beef. Canned meats are not generally used in New Orleans in summer, but they are much used as luncheon and supper dishes in winter. Fowl.

Canned Turkey, Chicken, Ducks, Pigeons, Foles Gras, etc. All these are used more generally in winter. Salt Codfish, Salt Mackeral, Herrings, Salt | Roe, Smoked Salmon, Smoked Halibut, Canned Lobster, Canned Shrimp, Canned Salmon, Canned Oysters, Sardines, Anchovies, Anchovy Butter, Caviars.

Dried Venison, Buffalo Tongue, Wild Meats, etc, Canned Corn, Green Peas, Asparagus, Tomatoes, Cauliflower, Cabbage, Brocoli, Cucumbers (pickles), Lima Beans, Dried White and Red Beans, Split Peas, Kidney Peas, Carrots, Parsnips and Horseradish.

Fraits Lemons Canned Peaches, Pears, Pineapples, Cherries, Grapes, Plums, Damsons, Grapefruit, Cranberries, Strawberries, Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants. All the above canned fruits made into jeliies, marmalades and preserves. All manner of Preserves, nfitures, Dried Apples, Dried Peaches. Pickles and Sauces Chow-chow, Mixed, Sweet Cucumber, Gherkins, Green Tomatoes, Sweet Tomato, Cauliflower, Pickled Onions, etc. All Kinds of Sauces and Salad Dressings generally.

Pecans, Peanuts, Filberts, Hickory Nuts, Brazilian Nuts, English Walnuts, Walnuts, Chestnuts (in season), Louiaiana Pecans.

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YUNE CREOLE COOK BOOK MENUS The following Menus are intended as weekly suggestions for Breakfast, Luncheon and Dinner. Two sets are given—one for familles whose means will permit of a more elaborate expenditure of money, the other for families of limited means. Another set of Menus, also, is intended as a’ special suggestion for holiday feasts. hese Menus have been prepared with particular care.

With modifications, as regards fish, and game, especially, the following Menus may be adapted to any section: WEEKLY SUGGESTIONS Menu for Monday Sliced Oranges.

Boiled Grits. Milk or Cream. Fried Croakers.

Broiled Spring Chicken. Potato Croquettes.

Radishes. Watercress.

Batter Cakes. Butter. Louisiana Syrup. Cafe au Lait.

Oysters on Half Shell. Oyster Crackers. Pickles.

Thin Slices of Cold Ham. Lettuce Salad, French Dressing. Cheese. Lemon Jelly Wafers. Okra Gumbo.

Celery. Olives. Salted Almonds. Boiled Sheepshead, Cream Sauce. Mashed Potatoes.

Roast Filet of Beef, Tomato Sauce. Boiled Rice. Green Peas. Stuffed Tomatoes. Asparagus. Beet Salad. French Dressing. Queen’s Pudding, Wine Sauce. Pineapple Ice.

Roquefort. Fruit. Louisiana Nuts. Menu for Tuesday Grapes.

Small Hominy, Sugar and Cream. Boiled Trout, Sauce & la Creme. Broiled Tenderloin Steak. French Fried Potatoes.

Celery. Radishes.

French Rolls. Butter. Café au Lait. River Shrimp on Ice.

Cold Roast Beef.

Tomato Salad, Mayonnaise Dressing. Hominy Croquettes. Celery. Cup Cake. Raspberry Jelly. Cheese. Tea or Cocoa.

Cream of Tomato Soup, with Croatons. Celery. Olives. Mangoes. Oyster Patties Aa la Reine. Noyau of Beef With Mushrooms. ‘ew Potatoes a la Parisienne. Louisiana Rice.

Roast Canvas-back Duck, Mashed Turnips.

Cauliflower au Vinaigrette. Charlotte Russe.

Wafers. Neufchatel.

Strawberry Jam. Fruits) Nuts. Menu for Wednesday Prunes or Iced Figs (in Season). Wheatena. Milk.

Broiled Tenderloin Trout, Tartare.

Potato Chips.

Broiled Ham. Scrambled Eggs. French Toast. Butter.

Caviars sur Canapés.

Cold Duck. Lettuce Salad. Rice Croquettes.

White Mountain Cake.

Compote of Peaches. Cheese. Tea. Milk.

Bayou Cook Oysters.

Spanish Olives. Celery. ‘onsommé de Volaille.

Broiled Sheepshead, Sauce & la Maftre a’Hotel.

Potatoes &@ la Duchease. Lamb Cutlets Breaded, Sauce Soubisse. String Beans. Stuffed Cabbage. Spinach with Hard-Boiled Eggs. Roast Leg of Mutton, Mint Sauce. Roquette Salad, French Dressing. Lemon Pudding.

Roquefort.

Fruit. Nuts.

Sauce a la Menu for Thursday Bananas.

Brojied pOatmeal. pare, roiled Patassas. Potato Croquettes. Cress. Radishes. a Fried Liver and Bacon. Small Hominy. Waffies. Louisiana Syrup. Butter. River Shrimp on Ice.

Fish Croquettes. Olives. Cold Mutton. otato Salad. French Rolls.

Brioche. Orange Marmalade. Fruit. Tea.

Green Turtle Soup. Crofitons. Radishes. Celery. Olives, Pickles. Vol-au-Vent of Oysters. Veal Sauté aux Champignons. Rice. Squash.

Potatoes & la Créme.

Roast Mallard Duck. Green Peas. Banana Fritters.

Watercress Salad. Asparagus. Peach Pie. Rouquefort, Biscuit Glacé. Assorted Cakes,

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Menu for Friday rigreamed Chicken. Small Hominy. BREAKFAST ice Cakes. Butter. | Louisiana Syrup. Strawberries and Cream. The Daily Times-Picayune. Fried Perch, “Small Homi rie erch. ma ominy.

Lyonnaise Potatoes. DINNER Corn Batter Bread. Butter. Louisiana Gumbo Filé. Syrup. Radishes. Cress. Olives. Oysters on Half Shell. Fish Croquettes. Crackers. Pickles. Chicoree Salad.

Apple Float. Sponge Cake. Fruit. Tea or Cocoa.

Bisque d'’Ecrevisse (Crawfish Bisque). Radishes. Cress. Celery. Olives. Broiled Pompano, Sauce & la Maftre d@’Hotel.

Julienne Potatoes.

Butterbeans. New Corn on the Cob. Boiled Young Creole Onions. Drawn _ Butter Sauce.

Macaroni or Spaghetti & la Créole. Salad Louisianaise.

Riz au Lait. Angel Cake. Lemon Wafers. Neufchatel. Raisins. Nuts.

Menu for Saturday Muskmelon_ on Ice..

Grits. Milk.

Stewed Tripe. Omelette a la Créole. Flannel Cakes. Louisiana Syrup. Anchovies.

Fish Salad. Deviled Ham. Crackers. Blackberry Pie. Cheese Straws. Watermelon on Ice.

Tea or Coffee.

Cream of Asparagus Soup. Celery. French Olives. Pickles. Bouillabaisse (Redfish and Redsnapper).

Potatoes A la Maitre d’Hotel. Chicken Sauté aux Petits Pois. Boiled Rice.

Parsnips. Carrots & la Créole. Roast Venison. Current Jelly. Baked Sweet Potatoes.

Green Pepper and Tomato Salad, Peach Meringue Pie. Roquefort. Menu for Sunday Peaches and Cream.

Cracked Wheat, Milk.

Broiled Spanish Mackerel. Sauce a la Maftre d'Hotel. Julienne Potatoes.

Radishes.

Fruit.

Salted Almonds.

Courtbouilllon & la Créole. Potato Puffs.

Sweetbreads a la Créole. Roast_ Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. Rroiled Tomatoes. Stuffed Artichokes. Celery Salad, French Dressing. Nesselrode Pudding.

Almond Cakes. Fruit. Assorted Nuts Edam Cheese.

Oysters on Half Shell. Cold Turkey. Tomato Salad. Toast.

Chocolate Cake.

Cheese. Fig Preserves. Tea. Milk.

French MENUS FOR HOLIDAY FEASTS AND BANQUETS A New Years Menu Menu Pour le Jour de VAn, Oatmeal, Cream.

Radishes. Cress.

Broiled Trout Sauce a la Tartare. Potatoes & la Duchesse. Creamed Chicken. Omelette aux Confitures.

Batter Cakes, Louisiana Syrup. Fresh Butter.

Oysters on Half Shell. Spanish Olives. Celery. Pickles. Salted Almonds.

Green Turtle Soup, Croatons. Broiled Spanish Mackerel, Sauce & la Maitre d'Hotel.

Julienne Potatoes.

Lamb Cutlets Breaded, Sauce Soubise. Sweetbreads & la Créole. Sherbet..

Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. Baked Yams. Cauliflower au Gratin. Lettuce, Salad Dressing. Pouding a la Reine, Sauce. Mince Pie.

Biscult Glacé. Petits Fours. Fruits. Nuts. Raisins.

Cheese. Toasted Crackers. ~ Cafe Noir.

Cold Turkey, Currant Jelly. Celery Salad.

French Rolls. Butter. Assorted Cakes. Fruits. Nuts.

‘ea.

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ened Rice Griddle Cakes. Louisiana Syrup. A More Eeonomical New Year’s Menu Gakes. ot BREAKFAST. oe Times] } sliced Oran es. The Daily Times-Picayune. atmeal an ream. = Broiled Lamb Chops. Julienne Pota- DINNER toes. Radishes. Celery. Oysterg on Half Shell. Egg Muffins. Fresh Butter. Louisianna. Cream of Asparagus Soup.. Syrup, Spanish Olives. Celery. Mixed Pickles. Cafe au Lait. partdishes. Salted Almonds. = Pic: ake edsnapper a Créole.

The Daily Times-Picayune. Mashed. Potatoes. DINNER. Lamb Chops au Petit Pois.

Consommé. peineapple Fritters.

Radishes. Celery. Olives. Pickles. es sce Roles Gras. Boiled Sheepshead, Cream Sauce tufted Tomatoes. Mashed Potatoes.. Turkey Stuffed With Chestnuts, Cran1 erry. uce.

Vol-au- Vent of Chicken. Endive Salad, French Dressing. anane fritters. Plum Pudding, Hard Sauce. Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. Pumpkin Pie. Baked Yams. Sliced and_ Buttered. Lemon Sherbet. Assorted Cakes. Green Pepper and Tomato Salad French Assorted Fruits. Assorted Nuts. Pointes a'Asperges au Pabhe newiaing. nee Pie. oquefort.

Vanilla Ice Cream. Sponge Cake. Quince Marmalade. Crackers. Assorted Fruits. Nuts. Raisins..

Café Noir. SUPPER SUPPER. Cold Turkey. eomato Salad. Trackers.

Cold Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. Cake. Fruit. Tea. Cake. Fruit. Tea.

A More Economical Thanksgiving Menu for Easter Sunday. Dinner.

BREAKFAST Oysters on Half Shell.

Strawberries and Cream. Shrimp Gumbo. Small Hominy, Milk. lfadishes. Celery. Olives. Pickles. Boiled Tenderloin, Trout, Sauce a la Soules a la Orly. Julienne Potatces. Créme. Chicken Croquettes.

Potatoes & la Parisienne. Banana Fritters. Cress. Radishes. Roast Turkey, Oyster Stuffing. Breakfast Bacon. Scrambled Eggs. Cranberry Sauce. Flennel Cakes, Loulsianna Syrup. Young Squash. Macaroni au Gratin.. Café au Lait. Small Onions, Boiled Sauce & la Maitre The Daily Times-Picayune. Ceulifl d' Hotel, 1 ‘auliflower au Vinaigrette.

DINNER Plum Pudding. Mince or Pumpkin Pie. Caviars sur Canapés. Assorted Cakes. Nuts. Raisins. Fruit. Oyster Soup. Crackers. Cheese.

pean oes. Olives. Salted Almonds.

row omPan roth e a le aitre Menu for Christmas New Potatoes aux Beurre a la Maitre Menu Pour la Noél. Hotel. 3 Pigeons Sautés aux Champignons. BREAKFAST Sherbet. Sliced Oranges.

Roast Lamb. Mint Sauce. Green Peas. Boiled Grits and Cream Cauliflower au Beurre.. Celery. _Radishes. Asparagus. Fried Croakers, Sauce & la Tartare. Salade aux Laitues et aux Cerfeuils. Potatoe Chips. Angel Cake. Ice Cream. Bouchés. Broiled Lamb Chops. Small Hominy. Glacées. Corn Cakes. cutter. Paguisiana Syrup. Fruit. Nuts. Raisins. Roquefort..Café au t.. Café Noir. 4 The Christmas Times-Picayune. SUPPER DINNER Warmed-over Lamb. Currant 8elly. Bayou Cook Oysters. Celery Salad. Cream of Celery Soup. Waffles. Louisiana Syrup. Fruit. Spanish Olives. Tea. Celery. Young Onions, Pickled. Radishes. Salted Almonds.

A Thanksgiving Menu Bouillabaisse (Redsnapper and RedMenu pour le Jour d’Action des Grfces. fish). Loulsiana Rice.

BREAKFAST Potatoes au Beurre Maitre d’Hotel. Grapes. Vol-au-Vent of Pigeons.

Oatflakes and Milk. Green Peas, Buttered. Broiled Tenderloin Steaks. Potato Sherbet. Chips. Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. Stuffed Tomatoes.

Milk Biscults. Butter.

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Artichokes on Beurre Maitre d’Hotel. Asparagus.

Mince Pie. Apple Pie.

Strawberry Ice. Bouchées. Massepains. Petits Fours.

Assorted Fruits. Assorted Nuts. Raisins.

. Bonbons &@ la Créole.. Edam _ Cheese or Roquefort. Water Crackers.

Cold Turkey. Tomato Salad. Crackers. - Cake.

Marmalade of Apricots. Cheese. Fruit. ‘ea.

A More Economical Christmas Menu Grits and Milk.

Broiled Steak. Potatoes & la Duchesse.

Batter Cakes. Louisiana Syrup. The Christmas Times-Picayune. Oyster Cocktail.

Radishes. Spanish Olives. Julienne Soup.

Broiled Green Trout, Sauce Rémoulade. Potatoes au_Brabant.

Roast Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. Baked Yams, Buttered. Winter Squash.

Stuffed Tomatoes.

Lettuce Salad, French Dressing. Plum Pudding. Mince Pie or Anvle Ple. Vanilla Ice Cream.

Pound Cake or Jelly Cake. Fruits. Raisins.

Crackers. Currant Jelly. Roquefort.

Cold Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. Potato Salad.

French Toast. Cheese and Jelly. Fruit. ea.

An Old-Fashioned Creole Suggestion for Holiday Menus The following old-fashioned Creole holiday menu, in vogue for generations may be used by families whose means are very limited, but who, nevertheless, with all the world. wish to enjoy themselves, and give to those about them a little Christmas cheer. Sliced Oranges.

Small Hominy and Milk.

Potatoes a la Créole.

Omelette & la Créole.

Rice Cakes. Louisiana Syrup. Gumbo Filé.

Radishes. Cress. Pickled Onions. Courtbouillon. Mashed -Potatoes. (This Course May Be Omitted.) Roast Turkey, Oyster Stuffing, Cranberry Sauce.

Baked Yams, Sliced and Buttered. Stuffed Tomatoes.

Lettuce Salad, French Dressing. Plum Pudding.

Mince Pie or ‘Apple Pie. Pineapple Sherbet (May Be Omitted). Home-Made Sponge, Jelly and Pound lakes.

Apples, Oranges, Bananas, Grapes. (Or Simply One or Two Fruits.) An Assortment of Nuts and Raisins. Home-Made Creole Bonbons. Cheese. Crackers. aaspberry Marmalade.

Cold Turkey, Cranberry Sauce. heese.

Jelly. Small Cakes.

Tea.

SPECIAL MENUS Suggestions for Banquets or Formal Dinners Oysters on Half Shell.

SOUPS OR POTAGES.

Julienne or Consommé Royale. HORS D'OEUVRES (SIDE DISHES). Celery, Radishes, Queen Olives, Young Onions, Salted Almonds.

POISSON (FISH).

Broiled Pompano (in season) or Spanish Mackeral, Sauce & la Maitre d’Hotel. Pommes de Terre & la Duchesse (Potatoes & la Duchesse). Sliced Cucumbers.

RELEVES.

Filet de Boeuf Trufée aux Perigueux, or Sauté aux Champignons. ENTREE Sweetbreads A la Créole. LEGUMES Stuffed Artichokes. Asparagus. ROTIS Turkey Stuffed With Oysters or ChestSnipe on Toast, or Pababotte a la Créole.

Watercress.

SALADE Whole Tomatoes Frappés, or Lettuce Salad. French Dressing.

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SS "‘EWIE PICAYUNE CREOLE COOK BOOK DESSERTS Nresselrode Pudding. Variegated Ice Chocolate Layer Cake or Petits Fours. Assorted Fruits. Assorted Nuts. Raisins, Edam or Roquefort Cheese Menu for Buffet Luncheons onsommé Doré en Tasse (Gilt-Edged Consommé in Cups) Sandwiches. Caviar on Toast. Radishes. Celery. Olives. Mixed Pickles. Salted Almonds.

Oyster Patties.

E3Zoned Turkey (Galantine Trufée) or Cold Roast Turkey.

Mayonnaise of Chicken or Shrimp. Biscuit Glacé or Variegated Ice Cream. Assorted Cakes. Assorted Bonbons. Crystallized Fruits.

Coffee. Cream. Chocolate.

Iced Lemonade.

Tea.

Menu for Suppers A supper admits of an appetizer, Oysters on Half Shell, served as an hors d’oeuvre, or Anchovies, caviars, etc.; a Soup or Gumbo; the usual hors @oeuvres of Celery, Radishes, Cress, Pickled Onions, Mangoes, Salted Almonds, etc.; Fish, broiled, baked, Courtbouillon or Bouillabaisse; entrées of various kinds, to suit the taste and also to correspond with the course of the feast; sweet entremets; a@ roast, vegetables, to be served with it, and salad; game of any variety, from Venison, Canvas-back, Mallard and Teal Ducks, to Papabottes, Snipe, Woodcock, etc. on toast; Desserts, Fruits, Jellies, Cheese, Coffee.

Asarule, any dinner menu may serve also for a supper, except in case of a state dining, and even then the rule given above should be observed. SOIRESES, ‘ “Soirées" are pleasant forms of entertainments that have come down from earliest days in Louisiana. While elaborate entertaining was also done, the Creole character being naturally gay and happy. with an inherited French fondness for the dance, for music and song and social intercourse, the young folks shad a way of giving weekly soirées, at which their parents served simple Hght refreshments, like th: famous “‘Strops,” ices of various kinds, lemonades and Petits Fours, or small cakes, wafers and fruits. These refreshments were passed around by the old-time servants. decked in gay bandana tignon, guinea blue dress and white apron, and kerchief pinned across the bosom. Later in the evening tea was served, and as the “Soirée” advanced to the wee hours, coffee, chocolate and consommé in cups. Fathers took the greatest interest in the “Soirées” in their homes, and did the honors with distinguished courtesy, inviting the older gentlemen, who acted as escorts for their daughters, to take a glass of wine or champagne. but liquors were never offered to the youn people. Ice Cream, Lemonade an Cakea with a cup of Consommé or Café Noir, as the evening advanced, were considered sufficient refreshment. Again, at these “Soirées” the simple “Eau Sucré” was served in the homes of families of most Hmited means, These old-time “Soirées” still continue, though the “Eau Sucré” parties have passed away with changing conditions. ECONOMICAL MENUS Menu for Monday Sliced Oranges.

Small Hominy. Milk.

Broiled Beefsteak. Julienne Potatoes. Batter Cakes. Louisiana Syrup. Muskmelon.

Saucisses & la Créole. Hominy Croquettes.

French Rolls. Raspberry Jam. ‘ea.

Vegetable Soup.

Baked Redsnapper.

Potatoes & la Maitre d’Hotel. Roast Beef, Tomato Sauce.

Boiled Rice. Butterbeans. Lettuce Salad. Apple Dumplings & la Créole. Cheere. £6 Noir, Menu for Tuesday Bananas.

Meat Rissoles, Potato Croquettes. Biscuit.

Mice Griddle Cakes. Louisiana Syrup. Café au Lalit.

Thin Slices of Botled Ham. Compotes, of Apples.

ea.

Gumbo Filé.

Roast Pork, Apple Sauce.

Baked Sweet Potatoes. String Rean Banana Cake. Cheese.

Menu for Wednesday Stewed Prunes.

Oatmeal and Milk.

Fried Ham. Scrambled Eggs. Sweet Potato. Waffles. Butter. Cold Roast Pork.

Oatmeal Cakes. Salade & la Jardiniére. Ginger Snaps. Tea.

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nr) eee Vermicelli Soup.

Courtbouillon. Potatoes & la Duchesse. Grillades & la Sauce. Red Beans. Rice. Green Pepper and Tomato Salad. Pumpkin Pie. Cheese. Fruit. Menu for Thursday Peaches and Cream (in Season). Ragout of Mutton. Small Hominy. Cornmeal Cakes. Louisiana Syrup. " Fish Croquettes. Potato Salad. Jelly. Cheese.

Crackers. Tea.

Cream of Tomato Soup.

Boiled Lamb Sauté aux Petits Pois, Stuffed Tomatoes.

Lettuce Salad.

Riz au Lait. Cheese.

Menu for Friday Pears (in Season).

Boiled Hominy. Milk.

Broiled Trout.

Julienne Potatoes. Pain Perdu. River Shrimp on Ice.

Cheese Fondue. Dry Cakes. Jelly. Tea.

Purée of Red or White Beans. Spanish Courtboulllon. Potatoes a& la Duchesse.

Jambalaya au Coneri.

Stewed Cashaw.

Blackberry Roll, Hard Sauce. Menu for Saturday Cracked Wheat. Milk.

. _Grillades Panées.

Apple Fritters. Café au Lait. Fish Croquettes.

Orange Short Cake. Tea. Vermicelli Soup.

Daube or Beef & la Mode. Macaroni au Gratin.

Spanish Jambalaya. Turnips & la Créme.

Lentils or Peas.

Beet Salad, French Dressing. Sweet Potato Pudding, or Custard Pie. Menu for Sunday Strawberries (in Season). Oatmeal, Milk.

Grillades Panées. Lyonnaise Potatoes. French Rolls.

Corn Soup (in Season).

Radishes. Cress. Home-Made Pickles. Bouillabaisse. New Potatoes, Buttered. Fricasseed Chicken with Dumplings, or Poulet au_ Riz.

Green Peas. Stuffed Tomatoes. Lettuce Salad. French_ Dressing. Lemon Sherbert. Cake.

Boiled Ham. Potato Salad. Blackberry Jam. Cake.

ea.

How to Vary These Economical Daily Menus These Menus may be varied with Gumbo aux Herbes, Gumbo Choux, Shrimp Gumbo, Bisque d’Ecrevisses, all manner of Purées, when vegetables are in the height of the season: all kinds of sweet compotes and jellies and jama, ete.; fried bananas; all manner of sweet entremets, with the exception of the expensive omelets and. fritters, and nearly all kinds of puddings and pies and desserts.

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INDEX NOTE—As a rule, the portions given in each recipe in this Cook Book are sufficient for six persons. In using these recipes it is assumed that the cook will increase or reduce the quantity of mumber of persons to be served. Note general classifications, such Page Ala Mode.. 69 Bouilli.. - 21 Corned.............. - 73 Daube, Cold, a la Créole.. 69 Mariné..........665 +. 70 FILET.... +. 67 Larded.......-...-.+5 -. 67 Larded with Mushrooms..... 67 Larded with Truffies......... 67 Smothered with Mushrooms or With Tomatoes «. 68 With Stuffed To: - 69 FRIED MEAT. - 70 No. 2...... weeee 70 GRILLADES...........--4-- 11 Breaded..... 71 With Gravy 71 HASH.........4.. seeeee 12 Dry or Baked.............. 713 Corned Beef 73 On Toast.......... 73 KIDNEYS.. 14 LEFT-OVER MEAT | ~ 72 LIVER.........-4-. 74 Fried & la Lyonnaise.. 14 MEAT BALLS.... - 71 No.2... 71 Mirontons.. 21 OX TAILS...... 74 A la Bourgeoise.. 14 Breaded...... 13 Potted.... 72 Roasted.. 66 Souffié... 72 STEAK.. - 67 Ple...... 72 Smothered....... 68 Smothered in Onions 68 TONGUE......-6065 15 Jellied.. 15 SBmothered..........00- sees 15 each ingredient in proportion to the as Fish, Vegetables, Bread, etc. Page BIRDS................ seen 127 Chaud-Froid "!. + +187 Broiling..... 127 Roasting.. +127 GRASSETS....... +185 Broiled or Roasted. +136 PAPABOTTES..... 128 A la Créole.. 128 Roasted.. +128 PARTRIDGES.. -129 A la Financiére. +180 And Cabbage. 131 Breasts of, Tr Chartreuse of.

Creole Style...

Hunters’ Style.

Roast.........000005 Roast, with Bread Sauce. POULES d’EAU With Turnips eee eee QUAIL 2... cece cece eee eee Braised, Celery Sauce........ 134 Broiled on Toast............ 183 Broiled with Bacon..........183 Roasted....... wee eee nee 182 Roasted, No. 2.............138 Roasted in Grape Leaves....133 Smothered...........+..05- 134 Smothered. A la Financiére..134 REED BIRDS...........++. Broiled or Roast SNIPE........-0.65 Broiled, on Toast... Roasted, on Toast........... 135 WOODCOCK..... eee ee eee ee 184 Broiled, on Toast............134 Roasted. on Toast........ +134 BREADS, CREOLE BAKED BREADS Baker’s..........

Buttermilk. eeeee French.......ecceceseee es B48

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Breads, Creole—Continued Page Page French Loaves.............. 343 Rusks....... oe 22+ B46 Home-Made «344 Tea oe eee eee eee eee ee eee 346 Making ¢ and Baking Bread.. 11342 TOASTS oo... cee eee eee ee eee 346 Milk. 344 Cream......... seen eee - 346 +843 Lost Bread.. wee ee S46 850 WAFFLES. 356 345 Cornmeal 356 Rye..

Short Gake......

Sweet Potato.....

Twist Loaves....

BISCUITS - 848 Potato. - 356 Beaten.. + +348 Rice.. --357 Cracknels. - 359 Risen --357 Plain........... «348 Sweet Potato..... --357 Soda and Milk.....349 YEAST, HOMEMADE - -360 Soda Crackers... +850 Stewed......:..849 | CAKES..... Sweet Potato.... - 349 Almond.. Tea..... eee ee eee. 349 Angel.... Wafers.......... 850 Angel’s Foo: wees CORN BREADS... «850 Archangel........ Ash Cake....... 7. 852 Banana Meringue.. Corn Cakes, Fried.. + 352 Black............. Dodgers + 852 Bride’s..

Egg..... 851 Buttermilk Hoe-Cake.... -352 Caramel Johnny Cak 3853 Chocolate, Creole Style Nonpareil.........-. 351 Chocolate Loaf...... Plain.......e-0eeeee +350 Citron Pone. +851 Clove 11361 “Cocoanut Loaf....- te. 351 Coffee............

-353 Cup.... see -358 Delicate Risen..

Steamed.

Crackling, Bread....

GRIDDLE CAKES....

Batter 857 Dried Fruit.

Bread.. - 358 Fig........

Buckwheat. +357 French, Creo Cornmeal.. - 358 Fruit Flannel +358 Fruit, French.. -359 Fruit, Gingerbread... Green Corn. 3859 General Directions for.: Hominy. - 859 Gingerbread............... Plain... «858 Gingerbread (Stage Planks). Rice..... 359 Ginger Cake MUFFINS...353 Gold Bread....354 Honey.

Cornmeal..354 Imperial.......: oe Cream.......... wee 354 Indian Pound............... Crumpets........ 855 Lady...... ccc cece eee eens Egg oo... eee..354 Lost Cake..............0008 Gems.......... wee B55 Lunch 2..... ce eee eee ee eee Gems, Corn...........-.+05- 355 Madame John's. Homimy.........00 eee eee 354 Marble........ Plain eee eee noes 353 Marble Chocolate. Puffs.. 359 Motley.

Queen 854 Molasses.......

Quick vee 855 Molasses, Plain.. Rice 2... eee cece ee eee eee eee 355 Nut..... Sally Lunn..............--0- 355 One, Two, Thre ROLLS........ esverece 345 Orange. Baba........ 347 Pearl....... Brioche 347 Picayune Brioche, Fruit 348 Premium... Bullfrogs.... - 848 Pound...... Cheese Cakes. 348 Pound, No. 2 French...... -345 Pound, White. Plain........-- 345 Plum.....- ee eee

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ee reser nen enee ere Cakes—Continued Page Page Raisin oe 284 Cream-Iced..........02eeeee 298 Silver. oe +279 Cream-Iced with Preserves. Spanish. sane +284 Creole....... eee Spice..........06- +284 Marbled Glacées.. Spiced Molasses....... +284 MISCELLANEOUS Sponge........ 284 Cup.. eee Sponge, Cream Sponge, Quick... Sponge, White. Tutti-Frutti....... 2.285 Popovers Twelfth Night (King’s Cake). 285 Queen. White Cream........... - 285 PANCAKES. White Mountain...... Without Eggs DESSERT CAKES, SMALL. Baking.

BOUCHEES Iced.......

With Peaches.

With Pineapple With Oranges.

COOKIES...

* Molasses Tea....

DROPS..

Anise..

Spice...

ECLAIRS Cholocate.

FINGERS Cocoanut Lady...

GINGER Snaps LAYER.

Almond Banana..

Cocoanut Pecan..

Rainbow Raisin....

MACAROONS Almond.

Iced....

Pistachio MARCHPANE MERINGUES Biscuits with ‘Preserves se eeee 299 Plain.... TT on General Directions for Jelly......-. 285 Jelly..

+285 Jumbles. -285 Madeleines 289 SOUFFLES -290 Cinnamon. ~.290 Citron... 297 Filbert «296 Pistachio.. 297 Rose....

+297 WAFERS +295 French 297 Ginger.

+295 CANAPES + +296 Anchovy, +287 Cannelons..........++ 287 Caviar...: 387 Chicken L on Codfish.

287 Crab...

+ 288 Ham.

: 288 Hunters’ Style + +288 Indian......: - 288 Louidiana. + 288 Olive.. + +290 Oyster. 290 Potted Ha 290 Potted Tongue. 291 Sardine..... +291 Swiss..

..291 | CANDIES, CREOLE -.291 CARAMELS - 292 Chestnut.. 11285 French “i jag +276 French, with Jelly... 289 Almond.......-. 289 Almond and Peanut. +290 Aniseed.........005 + 296 Anchovy: ME 296 Anchovy, “Creole Style -180 + 286 Anchovy, Cracker.........- 181 + +286 | Anchovy, with Gruyére (heese180 sa eeeee 184 -181 -182 -182 +182 -182 -183 -183 -182 -188 -184 -183

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——— eel Candies, Creole—Continucd Page: Page COLORINGS FOR............335 Green Peas...... vretere 7 $87 Burnt Sugar..... 335 Methods of.. Carmine....: - 835 Mushrooms... Cochineal. +335 Tomatoes..: Green... +335 PICKLING.... Orange 335 Cauliflower Yellow -335 Chow-Chow.

CREAMS -332 Fruits.......... Bonbons. - 332 Green Peppers..... Chocolate. +332 Green Tomatoes.... Orange.. - 333 Mangoes........ Peanuts.... -833 Methods of.. CRYSTALLIZED...... - 331 Mixed...... Oranges.........56- 331 Onions. -331 Sour....

Orange Blossoms wees..332 String Beans Rose Petals...

Violets.... - 832 Sweet...... Watermelon - 332 Watermelon ( DIRECTIONS FOR USIN VINEGARS, PICKLED.... SUGAR....... eee renee 333 Chervil............ Blow, the. sees 334 Creole Catsup aeee Boiling.. 333 Pepper...... Caramel. -334 Spiced..: Clarify, to.: 334 Tabasco: Crack, the...... 334 Tarragon.......... Feather, the.

Hard Ball, the..

Pearl, the.....

“334 | CEREALS............. "334 Barley...

‘Soft Ball, the 334 Buckwheat see Thread, large..3384 | Corn........... Thread, small. 334 Cornmeal Mush. LOZENGES.....: 333 FARINA. Cough..... tenes -333 Plain. Plain............ 333 Gruel. MISCELLANEOUS. - 331 GRITS.. Comfits.........- -331 Bolled Lemon Sugar..... - 336 o Sugar Pluns -331 HOMINY. Vanilla Sugar 836 Botled.. Croquettes.

Lye, or Samp.

MOLASSES..

Pop Corn’ 2222002, Milk Porridge... Pulled OATS........065: NOUGAT Boiled oe Plain.. sceeees: Flakes.... Parisian........- sees Steamed...........PASTILLES......... 328 re Mush Candy Drops.....:

Gream: m -329 WHEAT...

Fruit.. 330 Cracked.

Ginger. 830 Kinds of.

Marshmallow Drops -330 | CHEESE.... Orange........-. 329 Biscuits. Peppermint Drops..330 Cream.. Rose......ee0ee> 330 Fondu. PRALINES.. 326 Ramekin: Almond.. sees 327 Souffle Cream. +827 Straws Peanut.. see 327 Toasted Peanuts, Sugared.. $27 Toasts Pink: 326 | COFFEE.... ol White -326 Best Ingredients For. - 1 CANNING AND PICKLI -336 Café Noir....... "4 ‘TANNING....---0-> 336 Creole Rule for..... o 2 c CON oo cece cece eee eee eee 886 How to Make.......-++.+++- 1

Page 401 See this page in the book

eens] Whipped, with Strawberries, Raspberries or Blackber5s (aT 263 Whipped, with Vanilla, etc...263 CREAMS, BAVARIAN Apricot...........

Coffee Raspberry Strawberry sees Velvet...

CUSTARDS Almond Page Page DESSERTS..... 287 Bolled.-+-++++- wee 258, UP...eee eee -. 269 COMPOTES corte +287 Floating Island. iil26o ‘Apple, Stuffed ||: 11287 Macaroon: ++ BBS Apricot......... 11237 Rice é: e+ Banana. eee +237 Tapioca. corer 4 Banana Cassa wee 238 BO NOCR amg + +259 OTHER DESSERTS..- 258 Blackberries.... +238 Cherries..... "238 Ambrosia...........-2065 +262 Cocoanut |... mett) Ambrosia, Pineapple and Cranberries... “938 Orange..... eee 262 Currants........ "239 Apple Sago........ 261 Damsons..........-. 289 Apple Sponge.. 261 Dried Fruits 1.1.1): i239 Blanc Mange.... 258 Figs.......-: “239 Blanc Mange, Cornstarch. 258 Figs, Creole Style "239 Blanc Mange, Neapolitan. Japan Plums.... “239 Blanc Mange, Velvet.. Lemons......... "839 Charlotte Russe...... Malaga Grapes.. “239 Charlotte Russe, Parisian. Oranges......... "939 Creole Summer Pudding. Oranges, Whole......240 Minute Cake......: Oranges, Creole Style..240 Snow, Apple...... Peaches "940 Snow, (ream.....

Plums.. 1.240 Snow, Orange..... Pears.... 11240 Snow, Pineapple.. Pineapple 1240 Strawberry Shortcake. Plantain, (reole Style +240 rawberry Sponge... Plantain, Old Style....241 | DOMESTIO BEVERAGES.. Pomegranates _. vleay Chocolate seer eecee Prunes...: +241 Cocoa.

Raspberries..... ~ 241 Tea Strawberries esos. 34l EGGS... CREAMS......... + 262 A la Poulette...... Almona, Sweet..: 264 Beauregard....... UNE vee eee eee eee eee oe Boltled..........0. Galt's Foot Jelly, or Gelatine. 262 Creole Omelet..... Chocolate +264 Ham Omelet...... Goftee o 264 Kidney Omelet.... General Directions for Making 262 Ounbrogm Omelet: Light.... +264 Omelet Soufflé.... Macaroon + 265 Parsley Omelet.... Peanut sete eens: 265 Plain Omelet.... Whipped 900021: 1268 | Gerampled.22000222201. Waite cone Cofee.. zee Scrambled, with Asparagus Whipped, with Peaches or Cherries.......6. eee ee eee 263 Shirred....

Truffle Omelet sees With Cheese With Ham........

Balls Canned cesses Chowder..........

Cooking, Methods of 30 Baking. 30 Boiling. 380 Brotling 30 | Frying.. 31 Stewing. 31 Résumé. scenes ase 81 Salt........- tenses eeeeeees 62

Page 402 See this page in the book

Fish—Continued Page Selection of 29 OYSTERS........... Shell....... wees seee AT A la Poulette aes Soups.... eee eeee - il Au Parmesan. ANCHOVIES 65 And Bacon..

Canapés. 65 Baked....

Salad.... wees. 65 Balls.... BLUEFISH. wae. 40 Brochette. Broiled.. ee eeeee: Broiled............ CODFISH Broiled in Shells Bacalao Broiled on Toast.... Balls.. Broiled, with Sauce. Boiled. Coddled Creamed. Croquettes.....

Fried.. Croquettes a la Créole.. 53 Salted Curried.............0. 51 Stewed Deviled.. 50 Dressing. 1138 CRABS..... see Fried...... - 49 HARDSHELL. Fried a la © ‘réole. - 49 Boiled.... Fritters.. - 53 Croquettes Loaf....... 55 Deviled... Minced.... 51 Fried.... Pan Roast.. 52 How to Eat Patties.... 54 Pie of... Pickled. re. 55 Salad..... Pie wo... cece e eee ee eee. 54 Salad No. 2 Raw, in ‘Block of Ice. - 48 Scalloped Raw, on Half-Shell..... 48 Stewed.. Roasted eons. 52 Stuffed.... Salad.. 54 Stuffed No. 2.. Sauté..... 50 SOFTSHELL.. o Scalloped.

Broiled... Soup...

Fried...... Steamed.

CRAWFISH..........: Stewed....... Baked & la (Créole.... Stuffing, for Poultry, Fish, ete.138 Bisque. sees PERCH. eee -. 42 Boiled. Boiled... 42 Bush.... Broiled. 42 CROAKERS. POMPANO.. 40 Fried..... A la Maitre d’Hotel - 40 REDFISH......... 34 EELS, LOUISIANA........... 48 Baked.: 37 A la Maitre d’Hotel...... Boiled sees 35 A la Poulette.: Bouillabaisse.......... 34 Broiled Courtbouillon, a la (réole. 34 Fried Courtbouillon, Spanish 34 Stewed. en Matalotte... With Tomato Sauce 37 FLOUNDERS.........+-+ RED SNAPPER.... 4 Baked........eeeeeeeee Baked eae 36 A la Nouvelle Orléans... Baked, & la Chambord....... 36 A la Normande......... Baked, Simple, Everyday A lOrly..... sees Recipe 36 A la Tartare. Boiled 35 FROGS........ Bouillabaisse 34 A la Poulette Courtbouillon, a la Créole.... 34 Broiled...... Courtbouillon, Spanish 34 Creole Style.. With Tomato Sauce 37 Fried......... ROE........565 45 Sauté, & la Créole SACALAIT....... 42 Stewed........- SALMON....... eee eee eee eee 65 GROUPER. Mayonnaise of.............. 65 Baked... Salad...... cee ee eee ee eee 65 HERRING SHEEPSHEAD...........---. 32 MACKEREL, SALT. A la Créole..........-e eee. 33 Boiled. Baked......... sseeee 32 Brotled Baked, a la Créole........... 33

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SS ee ere epee eee eeeeeeeepeeeeeereemesrererrrecemereesernaremeemeee] FORCEMEAT.......

Crab....

Godiveau.

Sausage...

‘Melon....

Muskmelon Watermelon FRUITS, COOKED, also see Compotes.........0.200es Apples, Baked..... wee Apples, Charlotte.

Apples, Fried........

Apples, Stewed.......

Bananas, Fried....

Blackberry Charlotte.

Cherry Charlotte......

Currant Charlotte.......... Raspberry Charlotte........ Fruit Toasts, with Cherries, Apricots or Raspberries... 235 Orange Salad +235 Peaches, Stewed - +235 FRUIT DRINKS, Iced.........-- 314 Cherry Water..............-314 Directions for.............-814 Fruit Granits.. oe 315 -3165 Lemonade.......

Lemonade (Fruit Lemonade (Hot).

Milk of Almonds............ $15 Fish—Continued Page Page Boiled..... 82 Orangeade..........00066--315 SHRIMPS. 55 Orange Granit... Baked..... see eeee wees 56 Raspberry Granit Boiled..... Strawberry Granit. Bush ee cene Strawberry Water........... r see Gumbo FRUIT SYRUPS.............-. 310 Pile... Directions for Making....... 310 Salad.. Apricot....... Stewed....... 56 Banana... With Tomato Catsup.. 56 Blackberry SPANISH MACKEREL. Cherry... Broiled.........0.eeeeee Cranberry. STINGAREE...... «+ 44 Currant 2.2.0... 0.2 e eee eee Au Beurre Noir...... 44 Currant, with Raspberries....311 Fried....... 44 Lemon.........-0 ce eee eee -311 With Caper Sauc 44 Lime......... ee eee eee eee 312 STINGARETTES. 45 Orange 312 TERRAPIN...... 22 Orgeat. 312 TROUT...........+. 40 Peach. 312 Cutlets of..... eee Pineapple.............2008- 312 Green, Boiled...... Plum 2.0... eee eee $12 Green, Broiled. Raspberry. wee 818 Speckled Strawberry..............+-.312 reeked. Fried......-+506. al Vanilla 2.0.0... cece 313 Green, Steaks of..........--. 62 FRUIT WINES, ETC. - 816 Green, Stewed...........-- 62 Blackberry..... Green, Soup...:.....--eee0+ 11 Currant... FOODS, VARIETIES OF.........364 Elderberry.. Ginger Beer.....

Louisiana Orange.

Muscadine......

Sassafras.

Scuppernong.

Spruce.....

Strawberry..

CHAUD—FROID OF.

PIE..

DUCKS, WILD...

A la Bourgeoise.

Canvasback...

Canvasback, Broiled Canvasback, Roasted Cold.........

Hunters’ Style ween e121 Mallard.......-ce cece eens 120 Stewed........ee eee e reese 121 Stewed, French Marshall Style 122 Stewed, Peasant Style....... 122 Stewed, with Mushrooms....121 Stewed, with Turnips....... 122 With Olives.........25--05- 122 Teal...... +123 Teal, & la Bigarade. ~.123 Teal, Broiled.... +123 Teal, Roasted.. 2.1238 HARE..........-- «2-424 Creole Style.......-..eeeeee 26 Filet of, Sauce Po'vrade...... 126 Roasted and Stuffed.. anne eees 125 Stewed. on ~.126 Stewed w: -126 RABBIT 124 En Matelote 124

Page 404 See this page in the book

—— ee Game—Continued Page Hunters’ Style....... veeeee L24 SQUIRREL..... En Matelote.. Hunters’ Style. VENISON....

Cutlets of, Broil Hash........... Hunters’ Style. In Chafing Dish. Roast Haunch of........... 117 Saddle of, Currant Jelly Sauce 118 Steaks, & la Poivrade 118 Stewed, A la Créole.. 118 Stewed, French Style 119 WILD TURKEY........-.... 120 GUMBOS, CREOLE............. 25 Crab 27 Fié. 25 Green, 28 Oyster. +. 27 Shrimp, Filé.. eee 27 Squirrel or Rabbit «++ 26 Turkey....... wee ween ee 26 HERBS.............-- seen e eens 225 BETS...... 0. eee eee ee eee Biscuits Glacés.. Biscuits Glacés, Creole Style.306 Bombe Glacé.......... see FROZEN CREAMS Apricot.

Banana Coffee........--5-How to Make, p<.) ( Sr King of the Carnival Mandarin.

Neapolitan Nectarine.

Nougat...

Orange Flower. Peach.......

Pineapple Mousse Pistachio....... Raspberry.

Rice.

Rose Strawb Tutti-Frutti Tutti-Frutti, Variegated..

FROZEN FRUIT Apricots......++ee% Bananas.

Cherries.

How to Fr Macedoine of. Strawberries..... SHERBETS...... Apple.......... Apricot.....

Banana...

Cherry...

Currant.

Grape...

Peach...

Pomegranate Raspberry..

Strawberry.. WATER ICES................ ICINGS FOR CAKES........... 299 Almond.

Colored....

Frosting.......Orange or Lemon... Orange Transparent Orgeat Paste....... Royal.......

Transparent.

Water....cee cee ee eee eee 800 JELLIES, MARMALADES, PRESERVES..........--.---.319 JAMS AND JELLIES Apple....

Apricot.

Blackberry. 320 Blue Plum a 320 Calf's Foot.. 320 Cherry, Jam 322 Cherry, Jelly 320 Currant..........++- $20 Currant and Raspberry. Directions for Making.. Grape.........+--Orange, Creole Style.... Orange Flower and Rose. Peach.......eeeeeeeee Pear....

Quince....... Raspberry, Jam. Raspberry Jelly.. Strawberry, Jam. Strawberry J elly. Violet.....

MARMALADESApple.........

Page 405 See this page in the book

ed SHE PICAYUNE CREOLE COOK BOOK 383 Jellies, Etc.—Continued Page Page Directions for Making.......322 Shoulder of, Smothered with Orange.........--- 322 Turnips......... Peach..

Pear......

Quince....

Directions for Making.

Fig..

Fruit Oranges, Small, Quince........

Watermelon Rind.

Apple Meringue LAMB...........065 92 Apple Tarts: Brains......... 94 Banana.......... Brains a la Rémou! 94 Banana Meringue Breast of, Smothered 93 Blackberry....... Chops, Broiled.. 98 Cherry.......... En Blanquette 94 Chocolate Cream.. Epigram of.. 94 Cocoanut........ Feet..... seen - 96 Cranberry....... Feet a la Bourgeoise. 95 Cream...... Feet, White Sauce..... 95 Creole Cocoanut. Filet of, A la Béchamel...... 98 Currant....... oe Filet of, Roasted and Larded. 93 Custard....... wee Kidneys of, Broiled......... 95 Frangipanni...... Minced........+.- 94 Gooseberry.. Roast, & la Béarnaise. 92 Greengage... Roast, with Mint Sauce. ~ 92 Huckleberry Tongues, Stewed.....- 95 Lemon....... Tongues, with Tomato Sauce. 95 Lemon Meringue MACARONI AND SPAGHETTI....175 Mince...... Au Gratin.. 176 Mince, Lenten.. Balls...... 177 Mincemeat, Plain.. Boiled, Italian Styl Creole Style...

Milanaise....

Neapolitan.

Timbale of..

With Daube...

With Tomato Sauce.

MUTTON.....

Chops, Brewer's Style.

Chops, Broiled.

Cutlets........

Feet & la Lyonnaise.

Feet a la Poulette.

24| PASTRY.......

Ple....

325 uf.

325 PIES..

325 Apple 323 Stew..............

322 Stew, with Turnips...... 323 Almonds, Salted..

323 Peanuts, Salted........ Foundation. 1.1...

175 Molasses.........

176 Oyster Patties.....

176 Peach..........+ 176 Peach, Meringue..

177 Pear...........6 175 Plantain.........

vececcee. 869 Plantain, Meringue.......... 88 Pumpkin...........000 eee. Raspberry 90 Strawberry vette - 90 Sweet Potato Custard.. sees $9 Vol-au-Vent.........--.00691 | PIGEONS............

Feet, Stuffed.... 91 Broiled.... Hash............ cece ee eeee 90 Broiled, a la Leg of, Boiled with Caper Compote of....... Sauce.........+ sete ee eeee 89 Pie.... cc cece eee Leg of, Roast.. 89 Squab, Roasted Loin oe one 89 Squab, with Green Peas.. ith Crawfish.........

Saddle et 89 With Crawfish Sheep Brains 92 Sheep Brains, 92 Sheep Kidneys...

Sheep Tongues, eee eeeeeee 92 Smothered: 91

Page 406 See this page in the book

en Pork—Continucd Page Roast.... Stewed, with Brown Sauce.. Roast, Loin of.. Stewed, with White Sauce... Salt Meat...... Breasts of, Louisiana Style... Spare Ribs of Breasts of, Queen Style...... Tenderloin........ With Dumplings. BACON... With Mushrooms.. Boiled. With Rice........

Fried With Truffles..

HAM..

Brolled.

Broiled, w nish..

Croquette!

Souffié.. tee HOGSHEAD CHEESE......... 98 Patties of... PIG TCRRED. «scree eeeeees GUINEA FOWI. PIGSFEET....... TURKEY Piquant Sauce.. Boned.

Robert Sauce....-. En Dau St. Hubert Style.... With Chestnuts or Oysters Stuffed, a la Périgue Roasted...............Tartar Sauce....... Roast, with Mushrooms...... Tomato Sauce...... Roast, with Truffles......... SAUSAGE tee Boudins PUDDINGS Boudins Blancs.... Apple Creole........- Apple Dumplings. Chaurice Apple Meringue...

Chaurice, with Creole Sauce.. Baked........... Chaurice, with Purée of Baked Dumplings. Potatoes.. «101 Banana... Chitterlings.... 102 Birds’ Ne. Saucisses... 101 Blackberry Roll... Saucissions 101 Boiled Dumplings. Bread...... seco POULTRY. 103 Brown Betty...... CAPON.. 112 Cake or Bread.. CHICKEN.... -105 Chocolate A la Reine...... 110 Cocoanut A la Tartare....... +106 Cottage. Balls, Queen Style. 111 Cream. Boiled sees 106 Creole Summer Boned.. 111 Fig............ Boulettes «+112 Fig, Creole Broiled........... +..105 Fruit Batter......... Casserole of........ 110 Indian.... Creamed....... £.106 Molasses. Croquettes..... ---111 Nesselrode Deviled........ -. 106 Orange... Fried.. 109 Peach Batter.

Fried with Cream Sauce 110 Plum.. Livers.........-6- 112 Plum, O!} Patties, Queen Style ~.111 Pineapple Pie wee cece eee eee ood Queen.... Roasted......-eee eee eee eee 110 Raspberry Salad, with Muyonnaise Rice Dumplings...... Sauce........ cece cece eee 112 Roly-Poly.... A la Créole.........-- «107 Sago.... A la Jardiniére....... 108 Snow... With Green Peas..... 108 Strawberry. Smothered........-..-- -.108 Sweet Potato. Smothered with Tomatoes...109 Tapioca.. Soufflé 1...... eee eee eee --110 Tipsy Squire. Be sure to read notc at head of index

Page 407 See this page in the book

ee eed ee Puddings—Continued Page PUDDING SAUCES.. -..268 Apple. wees 268 Apricot. + 268 Caramel sees +268 Cream of Butter.. 111268 Cream of Vanilla.... Custard........... -. +269 Foaming +2 269 Fruit... -269 Golden.

Hard..

Hard No. +269 Hard Sauce, Creole Style....269 Orange. aoe 269 Silvery..:.. ~.270 Strawberry... nf ~-270 Velvet....... 270 RELISHES......... 225 Anchovies in Oil... 226 Cold.........e eee 225 Coquilles of Style............- 226 Creole Timbales......... 226 Cromesquies, with Truffles...226 Hot...... 226 Lamb Sweetbreads in Cases..227 Lyonnaise Sausage...... 229 Macaroni Croquettes. ~.227 Pickled Tunny........ wee 229 Queen of the Carnival Croustades 227 Reed Bird Patties.... "1228 Salpicon, a la Monglas. +228 Salpicon, Creole......... 228 Salpicon, Financier Style....228 Salpicon, Hunters’ Style.....228 Salpicon, Louisiana.... «+228 Salpicon, Royal....... 227 Salted Almonds.... 341 Salted Peanuts.. 342 Sardines in Oil..... 226 Tamales 229 RICE... +162 Boiled, Italian Style 164 Border of..... scenes -.164 Bread.. sane +.166 Calas............. ~ +165 Chicken with Rice.... -164 Cream Pudding........ 168 Croquettes of, with Fruit. 166 Croquettes of, with Parsley..166 Curry of Codfish 164 Custard -167 Custard of, Frozen. -169 Dumplings..........+ 167 | Fried..... ween 170 Flour, Croquettes of....167 Griddle Cakes........ 166 How to Prepare for Cooki 162 Jambalaya, au Congri......: 163 121268"

SALADS............. Page Jambalaya, Crab.. 168 Jambalaya, Creole. -162 Jambalaya, Shrimp...163 Left Over. 169 Meringue.. 168 Parched...........- 170 Pilaff, with Chicken.. 164 Pilou, French -168 Snowballs..... see -168 Soufflé... aeee -168 Waffies. -165 With Apples. 167 With Compote of Orang 169 Anchovy..

Artichoke.

Asparagus; Tips of... Bean....

Beet..

Cauliflower Celery Mi: yonnatse Chervil.

Crab, Mayonnatse.. Crawfish.......... Cress.... see Cucumber Dandelion Endive Lentil.

Lettuce..

Louisiana.

Peppers, Green..

Peppers, Green, Spanish | String Bean.

Tomato......

Tomato, Green Pepper and. Onion....... aoe Tomato, Iced.

Vegetable....

Watercress.

DRESSINGS FOR..

French, Creole Style. ae French, Plain...... French, No. 2.

Mayonnaise.

Mustard...

Rémoulade.

SAUCES FOR FISH, MEATS, POULTRY, GAME, ETC...141 Anchovy.. 142 Apple.....142 Béarnaise. +142 Béchamel.... oe 148

Page 408 See this page in the book

SOUPS Sauces—Continued Page Bordelaise...........+.. oe 148 Bordelaise, Creole ‘style. 148 Bread.. oe:..144 Brown.. +143 Brown Butter. 144 Caper.. 144 Caulifiowe'.144 Chambord. one 144 Chestnut.........eeeeeeeeee 144 Chili...... vee 144 Cranberry.........-+-++: «+145 Crapaudine. wee 145 Cream..... eee eee eee eee 145 Creole......... cece eee eeee 145 Cucumber.........-++++- 2.145 Currant Jelly. ee eeasee 145 Devil's....... «146 Drawn Butter. we 145 Egg see eeee 146 Financier. seen ee AAT Genoese cerreee +146 German eeee 161 Giblet 146 Glaze 2142 Half-G!.

Hard-Egg Sa’ Hollandaise...... Horseradish..

Hunters’ Sauce. Italian......... Jolie Fille..... Lyonnaise...

Maitre d’Hdtel. Mayonnaise..

Mint....

Mushroom Normandy........ ae Onion........--- ee eee Oyster........ Pickle..

Piquante Poulette...

Ravigote, Co!

Ravigote, Hot.. Rémoulade....

Rémoulade, Gree Robert.......-. Roux, Brown..

Roux, White...

Tartare....

Tomato....

Velvet.....

Venison..

Vinaigrette White..

eenees ts!

SERVING, COMBINATIONS FOR.361 Boiling.

Bouillon.

Bouillon, to Clarify. Caramel, for Colori AT Mm Oo Colorings for......0...-..-Consommé........ Directions for Making Pot-au-Feu........ Pot-au-Feu, a la CREAM SOUPS.

Asparagus.

Barley... +. 20 Rice... --- 20 Spinach --. 19 Tomato.. wee 19 FISH SOUPS.: 11 Crab....... +. 15 Crawfish Bisque.. 13 Crawfish...... - 14 Fish.... -u Oyster........... 14 Oyster without Milk. 16 Terrapin......... --- 18 Turtle, Green. Turtle, Green, Turtle, How to Serve. Turtle, Mock Eggs fo LENTEN SOUPS..

Carrot........ Chestnut - 21 Cocoanut. 20 Dried_ Pea 17 Fast Day Broth. 15 Green Pea 17 Lentil... 16 Lettuce. 18 Potato...........0 2c eens «. 17 Red Bean...........--00005 16 Rice, without Meat... eee ee eee 20 Sorrel..........-.-0- ce eeee 17 Split Pea............-- see. 17 Vegetable, without Meat. wees 16 White Bean......... ‘Winter Fast Day Winter Okra Sou MEAT SOUPS.... 6 Chicken Broth..... 9 Chicken, Consomm 9 Consommé, Golden......:::: 9 Consommé, with Poached Giblet........ Julienne.....

Macaroni......: Mock Turtle..... eee e scenes Mock Turtle, Forcemeat Balls bo) cs Mushroom...

Mutton Broth Noodle.....

Ox-Tail.

Pepper Pot.

Potage, Cron Queen........

a WAMROHS Saw IIIS

Page 409 See this page in the book

ee Page: Page - 10 | SUGGESTIONS TO HOUSE. 8 Comparative Table of Weights "41.._ and Measures......... vee KD Tomato Consommé.. 8 Cutting, Chopping, Slicing, Tapioca.........: 6 Mincing.............00.+-KIL Vermicelli........ eee 6 Directions for Serving Meals..361 Explanation of French Terms XII SOUP MEAT (le Bouilli)........ 21 Foods, Seasons when ProcurA la Bordelaise............. 22 able............. 364 A la Druxelloise............. 22 Invalids, Cookery for........863 A VIndienne.............+.+ 22 Left-over Food, How to UtilA la Lyonnaise............. 23 10 wee eee ee cee eeeeee - 362 A la Marseillaise............ 24 Rules for Mixing Ingredients. XI A la Paysanne.............. 22 Use of Broth, Bouillon and En Papilottes.. 23 Consommé in Cookery.....XII Croquettes.........-.-.-- wee. 24. Gren Sel tiitttt o4| VEAL.................. seneeee 15 Hash.... seeeeee 24 Blanket of.........0.e0008 80 Mirontons.. ooveee - 2 Breast or Shoulder, Stuffed Sausage...... 24 and Roasted 16 Sauté a la Lyonnaise 22 Cream of..... +. 79 Sauté with Onions. 28 Croquettes of. - 81 With Carrot Sauce. 23 CUTLETS..... - 17 With Egg Toast. 28 A la Milanaise 77 With Lettuce..... 23 Breaded.......... vee TT With Tomatoes............. 22 Breaded and Brotled. wee TT + En Papilotte............... q7 STUFFINGS AND DRESSINGS Smothered &A la Créole....... 77 FOR POUUTRY, GAME,.. | DAUBE.........c0.0e0 cee 18 serene. A la Créole..... 18 Serre £:3') En Ratatoutille 80 seeeeeees 189 Filet of, with Mushrooms or cc eset s ese ees 139 Truffles............ 16 Oyster, ‘for Fish or Game....138 Fricandeau of 78 Oyster for Poultry.......... 138 Jellied...... 0. cece eee eee 80 Stuffing for Ducks........... 139 Liver of, Fried with Bacon. 82 Stuffing for Geese........... 139 Loaf. voces euauueeace 80 Stuffing of Truffies...........138 Loin of, 16 Patties.. sees 80 Pot Pie.............. «.. 81 Roast, with Fine Herbs...... 76 Shoulder of, Stuffed and st quoasted scree eee ewes ecees a8 E semen eee cenene teeeee 9 Batter creale Stvie. peneet tt} With Mushrooms........... 79 veers With Potatoes.. 79 Batter, French With Olives.. 81 Brioche.......... 231 Cherry.: 281 TRIPE....... seeaeeee BT Corn Phtiitt 231 A la Créole.. es eeencvece 87 Doughnuts 2.2.2.1 tiie eee 235 A la Lyonnalse.............- 87 Elderflower..........--000- 231 A la Mode de Caen.......... 88 Fig dees petri 232 A la Poulette... seeeee 8T Lemon. viliienes 232 Fried. vee 88 Orange eee ceeteee 232 Stewed. ve. 87 Peach.. eee een 282 YOUNG VEAL. seeeee 81 Pear... wee 282 Brains, Fried............. «. 82 Pineapple wee ee 288 Brains, with Brown Butter Pineapple Cream.. seeeee 283 Sauce......-.- sees eee eee 82 Plain co.cc eee e cece eee eee 280 Calves’ Feet, a la Poulette... 83 Queen.283 Italian Sauce 83 Rice......... wee 288 Piquante Sauce 83 Sago Croquettes wee 2838 Plain.......6-. 83 Strawberry.... seen 288 Sauce Rémoulade. 83 Sweet Omelet.. aeereee 233 Tomato Sauce............ 88

Page 410 See this page in the book

Veal—Continued Page Calves’ Head, & la Poulette.. 81 CABBAGE........... eee eens A la Tortue.............5 82 And Corned Beef..... Calves’ Liver, a la Bourgeoise 83 Boiled............ Fried 1..... eee eee eee eee 82 Creamed.......... SWEETBREADS +83 Sautéd with Cream. A la Créme.... 85 Stewed........... A la Financiére.. 85 Stewed with Sausage.. A la Poulette.. 85 Stuffed........... 0.02 e eee Broiled..... 86 Stuffed, with Cream Sauce....194 Crépinettes.. 86 CAULIFLOWER... wee 195 Definition of.... 83 A la Maitre d'Hot.. 195 Fried and Breaded 86 A la Vinaigrette ~-.195 How to Blanch. wees 84 Au Gratin.. ~-.196 In Casseroles.. 86 Boiled, Cream Sauce.. ++ 195 Larded, with M 84 Boiled with Butter. wee 195 Smothered.........--++-+4+ With Hot Sauce.... -195 " With Green Peas see CARROTS...... +196 With Truffles.........-....- A la Lyonnaise... Tilise A la Maitre d’Hétel ~ +196 VEGETABLES.........-- Boiled, Creole Sty! ~..196 ARTICHOKES.......-----05> Stewed....... +..196 A la Vinaigrette. CELERY...... ~-197 Boiled, French..: A I'Espagnole. 22197 Boiled, Jerusalem. Creamed... ~.-197 Fried.........-. Fresh 22-197 Purée of. Fritters ~-197 Sauté.... Mayonnaise (sce salads) ~ 154 Stuffed.. Patties.197 ASPARAGUS. +2197 Tips, with Green [Peas... 198 Vinaigrette Sauce........ 198 BEANS 2.2.2... cece eee eee Stewed.....: -198 Bacon and ‘Beans, Creole CHERVIL. -198 style.. Salad......: -154 Butter... Vinegar.... -.340 Red..... CHESTNUTS. --198 Red, & la ¢ Boiled...... 199 Red, and Rice......... Stewed............ 198 Red, Boiled........... With Brown Sauce.... 198 Red, Burgundy Style. CHIVES............-.- 199 Red, Purée of........ COLLARDS....-199 Crouquettes oe CORN...........199 Lima.....-. And Tomatoes: +. 2021 Polenta. Baked, Creamed. 200 String, A la Poulette.... Cakes........200 String, Boiled with Ham Creamed 199 String, Brittany Style...... Fried...... 200 String, Butter Sauce......... Fritters.....200 String, Cream Sauce....... On Cob..... ~.199 String, Vinaigrette Sauce Planter’s Style..199 String, Panachés, Pudding.......200 White Roasted... -199 White, a la Mfitre d’Hitel...189 Salad............ 201 BEETS Sautéd with Butter --200 Boiled..... 190 Soup...... - +200 Buttered. -191 COWPEAS 190 Roots, A la Béchamel... 191 CRESS...... 201 Roots, a la Créme...... 191 CUCUMBERS.. +201 Sautéd in Butter............ 191 As a Garnish. --201 BORECOLE OR CURLED As a Relish -.201 KALE 2... cece cece eee eeee 191 Salad..... 2.154 BROCCOLI......--4+ CURRY....201 BRUSSELS SPROUTS. DANDELIONS. -202 A la Créme......... Greens, Boiled -202 Sautéd in Butter.... Salad.......- -155

Page 411 See this page in the book

Vegetables—Continued Page. EGGPLANTS..............4-. 202 Fried... ene +202 Stuffed +202 ENDIVES +203 With Cream Sauce... 203 With Gravy......... - 203 GARLIC... wees -203 HORSERADISH. 203 KOHLRABI. +203 LEEKS... -204 LENTILS. 204 MANGOES _.. 217 Stewed, Spanish 204 Stewed, on Toast..... -204 With Cream....... -204 MUSTARD -205 Creamed -206 Glazed.. +207 Smothered -206 Stuffed.. - 206 Chopped. 207 Garnishing 208 Green......207 PARSNIPS 208 Balls...209 Mashed... -208 Smothered.. 208 With Cream Sauce... +208 PEAS...... 209 Dried -209 Kidney or Black-eyed 209 Split..... 0.2... eee +209 PEAS, GREE A la Bourgeoise.. Canned, Ho Country Style French Style......Old Creole Style...... Purée of, Creole Style... Purée of, & la St. Germain. PEPPERS, HOT Cayenne Chili.

Pimentos.

Red.....

PEPPERS, GREEN Sautéd............ Stuffed. sees A la Bourgeoise..... A la Diable........ A la MAitre d’Hitel..... -211 A la Parisienne........ +214 Au Gratin..........-- +212 As a Garnish se eenee -215 Balls..214 Brabant. -218 Chips....213 Creamed...211 Creole Style. -218 Croquettes.. 212 Drawn Butter -211 Duchesse -214 French Fried Julienne..

Lyonnaise. wees +213 Puffs..... ones 211 Quenelles ns -214 Snow. 212 Soufflé............. 212 Steamed...... seaee Stuffed, Creole Style. Stuffed, Lenten Style Stuffed, Swiss Style.. With Butter....

PUMPKIN...

RADISHES 218 ROQUETTE 218 SALSIFY...218 A la Poulette 219 Creamed....219 Sautéd in Butter....... -219 SAUERKRAUT..........194 SHALLOTS 207 SORREL..........00005 +220 Au Gras. -220 Au Maigre. 221 Purée of.........0055 -220 SPINACH 2.0... 22.2 eee.219 A la Cuisiniére......... -220 A la Maitre d'Hitel..... -220 Au Jus.....-. eee eee -220 Creamed........ -220 With Hard Boiled Egg.. SQUASH..............45 SWEET POTATOES..... Caramel Pone....

Pudding.

Waffles

Page 412 See this page in the book

‘Vegetables—Continued Page Page TOMATOES..............-54. 221 TRUFFLES Au Gratin 221 On Minced Toast...........- 224 Broiled..... 221 Spanish Style......... wee B24 Consomme of «----sssreeees 8 | VEGETABLE PEAR, (Mirliton)..224 Salad....... VINEGARS...............0008- 313 Scalloped. FRUIT VINEGARS. ---313 Stewed Blackberry......... +. -313 Stuffed.. Orange....... - 313 Pineapple..... o+ +313 ened. Creole Style....... oe oH pberry.. “ 3r3 URNIE cece cece net eeeeeee Rasperry " weer tri Bollea |.. SOUR VINEG.

Creamed’. Chervil sees 340 Fried in Butter.. 2.2.02... 228 Sonne Catsup 73 Glazed... cece ee eees Spiced.. 841 Mashed.. Tabasco. o- 841 Tops, a la Tarragon........eecee eee B4l