Mrs. Beeton's Book of Household Management

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,.-Red Mullet. ^.-Grayling. 3.-John 6.-Whiting. 7.— Salmon. 8.— Herring. 912.— Crayfish.

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MRS. BEETON'S BOOK OF HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT A GUIDE TO COOKERY IN ALL BRANCHES DAILY DUTIES MAK1V, MISTRESS A SERVANT HOME DOCTOR HOSTESS & GUEST SICK NURSING MARKETING THE NURSERY TRUSSING & CARVING HOME LAWYER NEW EDITION REVISED. ENLARGED. BROUGHT UP TO DATE. AND FULLY ILLUSTRATED LONDON WARD, LOCK 6- CO., LIMITED, WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.G.

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O^Ljt~4L^u,^t^L £.°^."*^ ':f> \ 3^?r f~Jt~-s -zfc* -^ZC_ £,^/ '-5UV.M J £*~ S*p^*\^ /M

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PRKFACE TO MAY KPITION f a century Mrs. Beeton has beer, and friend of cou:

::t " has: a bride.1 thousands of ^ useful gift of all. Many comj>etitors comthe utmost Imi. as of old, ! I'iv^ and put or romance of do recorded its constant rescue of young housekeep* •: and \v«.o. Sir Art: entitl usekeeper in:

: most com fort;o concludes, that " this book has me: to thi -ich thai " — a wonderful t when one thus pr.:

than 80,000 s.n.

The bcKik of Household Mana^ ifl not, h( thai Mrs. Bccton IK •ion of o -cl by Cham unalt much ha- oarance of 1 necessa:

6 brought and i:

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vi PREFACE TO NEW EDITION to public notice has twice the number of pages and is four times the size of its i. jdest ancestor.

» It may seem strange that a book, originally considered most comprehensive and complete, should have needed such transformation. The world, however, has travelled of late at electric speed, and the far-reaching changes of time have touched household affairs from standpoints apparently far remote.

In cookery, for example, where the growth of our pages is most noticeable, many causes have contributed to change. We have relinquished almost entirely the old British prejudices against things foreign, and adopted, in great measure, those French methods which established a bond of union among good cooks all the world over, long before I' entente cordiale became a recognized newspaper phrase. Increased habits of travel have taught us the^ favourite dishes of other countries, while improved means of transport have brought to our doors fresh food supplies from all quarters of the earth. Cookery schools and classes have also educated many mistresses to the possibilities of the art, and encouraged them to insist on more variety and delicacy in their daily fare than the plain cook of old was wont to furnish. In short, every tendency of modern life, with greater wealth possibly — greater luxury certainly — is towards a tremendous enlargement of everyday cookery. In the present issue is given all information necessary to meet presentday demands in this respect.

Amongst the principal features of our mnv issue are — APPEARANCE. — The book has been re-composed throughout from a special fount of new type, of size and clearness to suit modern requirements, and. printed on the best English paper, and strongly and artistically bound in half leather.

ILLUSTRATIONS. — The book has been copiously illustrated in the most useful manner. Hundreds of photographic reproductions of ^actual dishes, processes, and materials have been included. No expense, however great, has been spared in obtaining the best possible results. The numerous coloured plates have been faithfully reproduced from nature, and printed in fourteen colours in the highest style of lithographic art.

COOKERY. — All the old cookery recipes have been carefully re-test' -d and prices and details altered wherever necessary. More than two thousand new recipes are given, contributed by Mr. C. Hen.

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PREFACE TO NEW EDITION vii assisted by some of the most famous cheis and teachers of the art that the world contains.

PRICES. — The cost of the recipes and the prices of articles mem. in this book have been most carefully, minutely, and diligently a\ vraged from lists compiled from the most reliable authorities all over the k dom. The task of estimating these prices has been among the most difficult and perplexing problems encountered in revising tl. Some provisions fluctuate greatly in price from day to i very great difference indeed exists between the cost of purchases n. in town or country, for cash or for credit, by mistress or by maid, seK personally or as allotted to you to suit the convenience of a tradesman. er a most minute consideration of the factors involved, we tx i the costs given in our recipes should hardly ever be exceeded the housewife who gives the trouble needed to buy in the most advantageous manner, will often be able to effect a very considerabl on the prices quoted.

.. — This, a frequent difficulty in small households, has carefully explained and illustrated by numerous photographs, shov methods of the best professionals.

CARVING. — Our.mentors held a practical knowledge of this art indispensable to the education of every gentleman* We moderns also realize how much a really good carver can do towards waste, distributing choice portions equally, and n ig the sightly appearance of a joint. The art has been thoroughly dealt with and y fully illustrated by a unique series of photographs of the methods of the best profession.il SERVIETTES. — The most recent and popular designs are illustrated, and diagrams given showing clearly;iade in producing se patter:

Coi.'. — This section has been mously increased. Australian, American, Canadian, South African, German and all foreign cookeries, have been comprehend.It with, so that Britons living under other skies may learn how to combine the dishes of their adopted country with those of the M<v land. We at home may also ^ • v in our own menus, and learn i complimentary and characteristic repast when welcoming sts from abroad.

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viii PREFACE TO NEW EDITION VEGETARIAN COOKERY, which is so strongly believed in and practised by many thousands, has been carefully dealt with. CHAFING DISH AND CASSEROLE COOKERY, now so popular with cooks, and indispensable in Flat life and for all amateur cookery and impromptu meals, is dealt with in a new chapter.

THE MEDICAL AND NURSING CHAPTERS have been contributed by two of our most eminent physicians.

THE LEGAL MEMORANDA has been contributed by a well-known barrister, author of several standard law books.

We take this opportunity of expressing our gratitude to many eminent authorities and great firms for the courtesy, thoroughness, and disinterested zeal with which they have given time, information, facilities, and assistance to us, whilst engaged in our long, laborious, but engrossing task of compressing all information of practical value to our readers into the new " Mrs. Beeton."

It would be out of place in a preface to allude to all the many features of our new issue. Many are there, and all the old Mrs. Beeton as well. For details, and also because it is easy in a book of this size to look for information in the wrong place, we would ask our readers to make use of the very comprehensive index and tables of contents furnished hereAll these new features have had one disastrous effect from the publishers' point of view. The book as- it now stands is half as large again as the previous edition, and is offered at the same price. We believe this to be by far the greatest value for money ever given in book production. We can only trust that this new and enlarged edition o MRS. BEETON' S HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT will meet with the same 'hearty welcome its old and well-tried predecessors have alway enjoyed.

WARWICK HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, E.G.

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ABRIDGED PREFACE TO THE FIRST EDIT1'; i frankly own that, if I had known beforehand the labour which this book has entailed, I should never have been courageous enough to •no- it. What moved me, in the first instance, to attempt a work 1 A as the discomfort and suffering which I had seen brought about by household mis-management. I have always thought that there is no more fruitful source of family discontent than badly-cooked: s and untidy ways. Men are now so well served out of doors — l>s, hotels and restaurants — that, to compete with the attra se places, a mistress must be thoroughly acquainted with the theory and practice of cookery, as well as all the other arts of making and keeping a comfortable home.

I n tins book I have attempted to give, in the chapters devoted to cookery, an intelligible arrangement to every recipe, a list of the tngrtdienti, i the met icparing each dish, and a careful number of pfoptf for whom sufficient t and the time when seasonable. Friends in England, Scotland. Ireland, France and Germany have very materially aided me.. < nt comparison \\ith the works:-est modern writers on cookery has also been necessary to the faithful i isk. But in the depai belonging to the Cook I have » make my work something more than a Cookery-Book, and have, therefore, given a short account of the.«• animals and vegetables which we use as food. I have followed the animals from their birth to their appearance on the table; have described their manage n lie various methods of carving Meat..md Game.:^ have designed the numerous drawings which illustrate ma: port ant and interesting items. The coloured plates are a novel t due.

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2 PREFACE Towards the end of the work will be found valuable chapters on the " Management of Children," " The Doctor," " Legal Memoranda," which have been contributed by a great physician and an eminent solicitor. I wish here to acknowledge the kind letters and congratulations I have received during the progress of this work, and have only further to add, that I trust the result of the four years' incessant labour which I have expended will not be altogether unacceptable to some of my countrymen and countrywomen.

248, Strand, 1861. ISABELLA BEETON.

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GENERAL CONTENTS CHAP.

\ I Yll I \ Mil \l\ \\t \\ 11 \\ III \\VIII cxn Mil \!V. \\ I CEMEATS Tin COOK MARK >DUCTION TO COOKERY RECIPES FOR S« SAUCES AND FORCEMEA' KS FOR GRAVI RECIPES FOR COOKINH; FIMI GENERAL REMARKS ON COOKI GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ox «.> i>s:-ES FOR COOKP r.s FOR COOKING BEEF RECIPES FOR COOKING LAMII i*ES FOR COOKING MUTI GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ox THE CO&IM i RY.....

r.s FOR CV GAM >K COOKING GAME r.s FOR COOKING HARE AND RABBIT NED AND PRESERVED FOODS XED AND PRESERVED FOODS i OR COOKING VEC.I i<\ MAK;Prin ALAD DRI «79

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GENERAL CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE XXXIX THE ART OF CARVING AT TABLE....1258 XL FARINACEOUS PREPARATIONS..... 1275 XLI MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS..,.1285 XLII RECIPES FOR MILK, BUTTER, CHEESE AND EGGS.. 1295 XLIII VEGETARIAN COOKERY.

XLIV INVALID COOKERY....... 1344 XLV RECIPES FOR INVALID COOKERY.....1350 XLVI BREAD, BISCUITS AND CAKES......1388 XLVII RECIPES FOR MAKING BREAD, BISCUITS AND CAKES. 1408 XLVIII GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEVERAGES... 1465 XLIX RECIPES FOR BEVERAGES L CHAFING DISH AND CASSEROLE COOKERY...1515 LI FRENCH COOKERY,....... 1525 LII GERMAN AND AUSTRIAN COOKERY....1534 LIII ITALIAN COOKERY LIV SPANISH COOKERY. '....... 1568 LV JEWISH COOKERY.......1571 LVI AUSTRALIAN COOKERY....,.1579 LVII SOUTH AFRICAN COOKERY...... 1588 LVIII INDIAN COOKERY....... 1599 LIX AMERICAN AND CANADIAN COOKERY....1614 LX TRUSSING POULTRY AND GAME..... 1632 LXI HERBS, CONDIMENTS, AND AUXILIARIES... 1638 LXII GLOSSARY OF CULINARY TERMS..... 1652 LXIII ENGLISH AND FRENCH NAMES OF ARTICLES OF FOOD. 1673 LXIV MEALS: THEIR IMPORTANCE AND ARRANGEMENT.. 1676 LXV TABLE DECORATION LXVI SERVIETTES LXVII MENU MAKING AND SPECIMEN MENUS..,.1714 LXVIII DOMESTIC SERVANTS AND THEIR DUTIES..1761 LXIX HOUSEHOLD RECIPES LXX THE DOCTOR. '.. 1820 LXXI THE NURSE.. -1879 LXXII THE NURSERY..1896 LXXIII HOMOEOPATHIC MEDICINE.. 1925 LXXIV LEGAL MEMORANDA., 1933

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LIST OF COLOURED PL Ail S FA i.— Red Mullet, Grayling. John Dory, Mackerel. Cod. Whiting, Sain Crayfish - Fn* FRUIT, and Black Cl. hite. Black and Currants, Melon, Strawberries, Raspberries, Plums. Greengages. HOUSEHOLD UTENSILS. — Bread Cutter. Coffee Roaster, Carpet Sweeper..^er and Mangle, Knife Cleaner, Spice Box.. 80 SOUPS. — Mutton Broth. Pot-au-Feu, Tomato Soup, Kidney Soup. Consonund a la Celestine, Consomm6 a la Royale, Bonne Ft Consomme £ la Julienne. Consomme a la Brunoise.. 120 >, 2. — Cral>.. Mussel, Lemon Sole, Halibut, Prawn. Sturgeon. Tr. Brill. Escallop. Lamprey. Whitebait. Lobster. Dover Sole aOQ, 3. — Oyster Patties. Whiting, Turbot, Whitebait, Mackerel, Mayonnaise mon. Lobster, Crab —Scallops au Gratin. Red Mullet. Turbot, Cod Steak. Fried Sole, Mayonnaise of Salmon, Salmon au Nature!, Brown Trout. Smelt A PRIZE SHORTHORN -Toulouse Pasty. Fillets of Beef. Beef Galantine, Zephires • Mu Aspic, Saute of Veal, Chartreuse of Pheasant, «. ried Veal. Chicken Medallions. Veal Stew t Beef. Boiled Beef. Leg of Mutton. Roast Ribs of Beef OWN WETHER COLLATION DISHES. — Pigeon Pie. Raided Game Pir, Cutlrts.v Prawns en Bouquet, Cret rs' Eggs. Lain)* • Boued Capon. 560 Pork, Roast Haunch of Mutton. Roast Aitchboi it ton. Call's Head. Ham. Sirloin of 1<.. Saddle of Mutton.... 608 BAC. Streaky. Prime Back.

Flank. Long urnon. Corner. York Ham, Mil 640 GAME AN: — Snipe, Larks, Roast Pheasant, Roast 1 GAME, i. — Cock Wulgeon.

Rabt i GAME, 2. -d Pigeon. Woodcock. Cock Wild Duck. Black:pe. Pheasants, Hare. Teal VEGETABLES, i • Potatoes, Spinach. Asparagus. Cauliflown Potato*-:,»«, Peas, French Beans, Stuffed Tom.* 800 VEGETABLES. 2.— Braized Celery. Leeks. Seakale, Brussels S; «1 and Boiled Potatoes, Parsnips. Artichokes, Cabbage, Braized «v» A SUPPER Bur» Room or •. 897 SWEETS.— Pancakes. Rice and Apple Cak«. -uldin. l-ruits. Sugar Tr:

Gateau St. Honore. Simmel Cake • at Grapes, Tangerines, Bananas, Oranges. Peaches. SM v and Potato, Macedoine. m.

•T, Salad Dumas. II-M 1 heddar. C.

f Chicken.

let. Mutton Cutlets and (.

i R TABLES WITH BUFFET NER TABLE A LA RUSSF.......

{'ABLE — OLD-FASHIONED STYLF.......

MENU AND \RDS

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS v FACING A ROYAL KITCHEN..,... o;,• • 33 STOVES AND COOKING RANGE... ^, ';•;..... 44 COOKING RANGES... • •" • • •.... 45 GAS COOKING RANGES.. _.......,!.... 52 COOKING, ETC., BY ELECTRIC HEAT...... 53 KITCHEN UTENSILS, i. ROASTING JACK, ETC..:-> ". ""••»<... 64 KITCHEN UTENSILS, 2. STOCK POT, ETC...... 65 KITCHEN UTENSILS, 3. ICE FREEZER, ETC..".,].,.... 72 KITCHEN UTENSILS, 4. CHAFING DISH, ETC....... 73 KITCHEN UTENSILS, 5. PASTE BOARD AND PIN, F.T\.... 78 HOUSEHOLD REQUISITES,r '..,;vx....* • ' • •. 79 MARKETING GUIDE, i. BULLOCK;.. 3^.-. •» ^.. 82 MARKETING GUIDE, 2. BEEF.. ^v>/ -V '... 83 SHEEP Y: '. '-''' • ' ' V'v'. '. ''.*''".•' l '.'.'. '•/"•.'. •; • • 88 MARKETING GUIDE, 3. SHEEP..... • •.. 89 MARKETING GUIDE, 4. MUTTON..^-, •.»:*'..... 96 MARKETING GUIDE, 5. PORK AND VEAL. -.• ••.,... 97 FISH, i. STEAMED SOLE, ETC......... 296 FISH, 2. FILLETS OF SOLE, ETC... (..-;-.» >.;:.; &-.-.... 297 FISH, 3. BOILED COD, ETC....; j,, ••'••..... 312 FISH, 4. COD STEAK, ETC..........3*3 FISH, 5. EELS IN JELLY, ETC......... 328 FISH, 6. FISH CAKES, ETC.......... 329 FISH, 7. RED MULLET, ETC......... 344 FISH, 8. SOUSED MACKEREL, ETC... -.... 345 FISH, 9. SALMON CUTLETS, ETC... '...... 360 FISH, 10. LOBSTER CUTLETS, ETC.... "i',?:..... 361 FISH, u. BOILED TURBOT, ETC.... •,.... 376 FISH ENTREES. SALMON, T(>RBOT, ETC..;*.;;..... 377 CATTLE.. » -. •..••:...'•. • • • 432 PIGS.... -.' '; • i;....... 433 ENTREES. MEAT, GRENADINS OF VEAL....... 488 ENTREES. COLD CHICKEN AND VEAL TIMBALES..... 489 ENTREES. FILLETS OF BEEF (PARISENNF)....... 504 ENTREES. BEEF ROLL, ETC......... 505 ENTREES. LAMB CUTLETS, ETC..,,....... 576 ENTREES. SUPPER DISHFS,...,,:...... 577 ENTREES. CHICKEN, QUAIL, ETC......... 673 ENTREES. CHICKEN SOUFFL£........... 704 COLD COLLATION ENTREES.......... 705 ENTRIES. CHICKEN CUTLETS,,.,,.....744

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LIST OF II. I I'Si RATIONS FA IES 745 76o 1 RIED RABBH, LTC......... 761 \ i........... 776 \TS.. -.. • •. 777 FOODS: TINNED AND BOTTLKD....... 792 >ss, SHALLOTS, ETC.

KBLES, 2. Ct CUMBER, CELERY, ETC....... 808.;v WATER POTATOES, ETC........ 809 CARROTS, ETC......... 824 BOILED POTATOES, i..... 825 VEGETABLES, 6. FES, ETC 873 VEGET.V HARICOT BEANS, ETC........ 873 PLUM PUDDING, ETC........... 968. CANAK\........ 969 •IIKS......... 985 \PPLE AMBER. ETC......... 1OOQ SOUFFLES........... 1001 COLD S...... 1017 r*v......... 1033 r........ 1048 DESSEK:.... 1066 A SUPPER TAHI.I.. 1079.:...... i i j..

iftlLLED KlPPERS. ETC..... 1IQ2 S\v».;...... iao8 VB......... 1256 >T! K 1257.. 3- Sot CAKVI-.:, SALMON..... 1259. K 1262:IEAD BEIK CARVING, 7 CARVIN AND LAMB.

v AND DUCK IX, HARE....... 1272

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8 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS FACING ENTRIES. MUTTON CUTLETS, ETC......... 1273 Cows...........1-288 FAIR v BUTTER AND OMELET......... 1289 CHEESE AND EGG SAVORIES, i........ 1304 CHEESE AND EGG SAVORIES, 2........ 1305 BISCUITS, i............. 1416 CAKES. COCOANUT, ETC.......... 1433 FANCY CAKES........... 1448 ROLLS AND CAKES.......... 1449 PIPING, OR FANCY CAKE ICING........ 1464 BEVERAGES, JELLIES, KTC.......... 1465 BEVERAGES............ 1514 EARTHENWARE COOKING UTENSILS........ 1515 TRUSSING, i. SECTIONS OF FOWL CUT IN HALF..... 1632 TRUSSING, 2. To DRAW A FOWL........1633 TRUSSING, 3. FOWL FOR ROASTING........ 1636 TRUSSING, 4. FOWL FOR BOILING........ 1637 TRUSSING, 5. POULTRY, GOOSE AND HARE...... 1640 A DINNER TABLE FOR Six PERSONS........ 1641 SERVIETTES, i. THE BISHOP.. ""...... PAGE 1699 SERVIETTES, 2. THE FAN.......... 1700 SERVIETTES, 3. THE BOATS.,, 1701 SERVIETTES. 4. THE PALM, THE LILY, AND THE CACTUS.., 1702 SERVIETTES, 5. THE SLIPPER.......,, 1703 SERVIETTES, 6. THE PYRAMID......... 1704 SERVIETTES, 7. VARIOUS......... 1704 SERVIETTES, 8. VARIOUS......... 1705 SERVIETTES, 9. THE ROSE AND THE STAR..... PAGE 1705 SERVIETTES, 10. THE FLAT SACHET...... 1706 SERVIETTES, u. THE MITRE... 1707 SERVIETTES, 12. THE COCKSCOMB. 1708 SERVIETTES, 13. FLEUR DE Lis VARIETIES...... 1709 SERVIETTES, 14. THE BOAR'S HEAD. 1710 SERVIETTES, 15. THE SACHET.. •...... 1711 SERVIETTES, 16. THE COLLEGIAN......... 171 _> SERVIETTES, 17. THE VASE 1713 COURT MENUS, i.......... 1720 COURT MENUS, 2..........1721 TABLE GLASS 1760 THE BUTLER'S PANTRY 1761 CHINA AND EARTHENWARE, i......... 1792 CHINA AND EARTHENWARE, 2......... i7<).'» A BREAKFAST TABLE......... 1808 INVALID FURNITURE.......... 1809 NURSING, i ". *. '.......... 1864 NURSING, 2 "

NURSING, 3. '.. "'........... 1880 To CHANGE SHEETS....1881

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LEMCO Within this jar there is more of the real substance of Beef — and a higher quality of Beef — than in any other Meat Extract jar of equal size. Lemco The only GENUINE LIEBIG COMPANY'S EXTRACT OF BEEF. LEMCO. 4. Lloyd's Avenue. London EC.

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The Truth about Cocoa is that there is little to choose between Cadbury's absolutely pure Cocoa Essence and milk — so closely are they allied in composition. For this reason is full of nourishment in an easily-digested form. Cadbury's is liquid food of the purest and highest quality, made under ideal conditions of cleanliness and pure surroundings in the Garden Factory at Bournville. To face mailer— Front.

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CHAPTER I The Housewife, Home Virtues, Hospitality, Good Temper, Dress and Fashion, Engaging Domestics, Wages of Servants, Visiting, Visiting Cards, Parties, Etc., Etc.

" 5, / honour are her clothing; and she sliall refoii • •e. She ope nc th her mouth with wisdom; and in her tongue is the law of kindness. She looketh well to the ways of her household, and wf. the bread of idleness. Her children arise up, and call her blessed; nsband also, and he praiseth her.1' — Proverbs xxxi. 25-28. The Functions of the Mistress of a House resemble those of the general of an army or the manager of a great business concern. Her spirit will be seen in the whole establishment, and if sh«: duties well and intelligently, her domestics will usually follow in her path. Among the gifts that nature has bestowed * on ink higher than the capacity for domestic management, for the exercise of this faculty constantly affects the happiness, comfort and prosperity of the whole family. In this opinion we are borne out by the author of The Vicar of Wake field, who says: — modest virgin, the prudent wife, and the careful matron are much Me in life than petticoated philosophers, blusi heroines, or virago queans. She who makes her husband an<: children happy is a much greater character than ladies describ -;e whole occupation is to murder mankind with shafts the quiver of their e\ The Housewife. — Although this word may be used to dcs oss of a household, it seems more fittingly applied to nallv ronduct t!:« stic affairs than to ot govern with the assistance of a large staff of well-trained 1 since 1766, \\ h wrote extolling virtues; and ifl the change more marked than in o; but;i woman should not be less careful i; man, her life because the spirit of thher activities housewives should be encoura'.ed to find time in the midst of domestic cares for the r< social intercourse which are necessary to the well-being of

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all. A woman's home should be first and foremost in her life, but if she allow household cares entirely to occupy her thoughts, she is apt to become narrow in her interests and sympathies, a condition not conducive to domestic happiness. To some overworked women but little rest or recreation may seem possible, but, generally speaking, the leisure to be enjoyed depends upon proper methods of work, punctuality, and early rising. The object of the present work is to give assistance to those who desire practical advice in the government of their home. Early Rising contributes largely to good Household Management; she who practises this virtue reaps an ample reward both in health and prosperity. When a mistress is an early riser, it is almost certain that her house will be orderly and well managed. On the contrary, if she remain in bed till a late hour, then the servants, who, as we have observed, invariably acquire some of their mistress's characteristics, are likely to become sluggards. To self-indulgence all are more or less disposed,\ajiti it is not to be expected that servants are freer from this fault than the heads of houses. The great Lord Chatham gave this advice: — " I would have inscribed on the curtains of your bed, and the walls of your chamber, ' If you do not rise early, you can make progress in nothing.' " Cleanliness is quite indispensable to Health, and must be studied both in regard to the person and the house, and all that it contains. Cold or tepid baths should be employed every morning. The bathing of children will be treated of under the heads of " The Nurse " and " The Doctor." Many diseases would be less common than they are if the pores of the skin were kept open. Frugality and Economy are Virtues without which no household can prosper. The necessity of economy should be evident to every one, whether in possession of an income barely sufficient for a family's requirements, or of a large fortune which seems to put financial adversity out of the question. We must always remember that to manage well on a small income is highly creditable. " He is a good waggoner," says Bishop Hall, " that can turn in a little room. To live well in abundance is the praise of the estate, not of the person. I will study more how to give a good account of my little than how to make it more." In this there is true wisdom, and it may be added that those who can manage small things well are probably fitted for the management of greater. Economy and frugality must never, however, be allowed to degenerate into meanness.

A Judicious Choice of Friends is most essential to the happiness of a household. An acquaintance who indulges in scandal about her neighbours should be avoided as a pestilence. While ever attending to the paramount claims of home, a lady should not altogether neglect social duties. The daily round of work is much more pleasant if cheered by intercourse with friends, who are often able to give, or pleased to receive, help in the little difficulties that may occur in everyday life. Another point of view is that most women look forward to some

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i. — Apricots. 2. — White Cherries. 3. — Black Cherries. 4. — White Currants. 5. — Blac'k Currants. 6.— Red Currants. 7, — Melon. 3. — Strawberries. 9. — Raspberries. io.— Plums (Black Diamonds). n.— Greengages. 12.— Victoria Plums.

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THE MISTRESS II •heir daughters in society, and in this cherished hope have e for not abstaining too much from social intercourse. One is apt to become narrow-minded by living too much in the home circle; it is not well to get out of tlv t meeting fresh people, important also that children should have the advantage of mixing with other young people, though of course parents should exercise every precaution against the evils of bad company. Friendships should not be hastily formed, or the heart given to every newcomer. There are women who smile on every chance acquaintance, and who have not the courage to reprove vice or defend virtue. Addison, - that — " A friendship which makt least noise is very often the most useful; for which reason, I should prefer a prudent friend to a zealous one." The advice Shakespeare makes Polonius give to his son Lacr: thoroughly sound: — iou hast, and their adoption t:

:>lc them to thy soul with hoops of steel; do not dull thv;>.rni \\ r Of e Hospitality should be j: but care must be taken that the love of COK >cs not become a prevailing passion; such a habit is no 1 and ^iii, <-rity in this, as in all duties of life, should be studied; i mgton 1: <>n from the i cannot be described, but is i mined • once at his ease." A lady. e first i'llny of a household, should not attempt to tances of her youth. Her true and tried to I*- liglr: and the ii she will in.;kc l>y likely by moving to a new local her \\itli ample society. In Conversation on n the petty annoy. ^appointments of the • ny people get into the bad habit of talking imes-antly of the worries of tl m servants an«l children, n«>t • r hearers thes uninteresting it n< -me subjects. From one's own point of well not to start upon a topic without having sut: ledge to discuss it with Important events, whether v or sorrow, should be told to i: apathy or itulation may be welcome. A wife should never allow a word about husband t) pass her lips; and in conversation, she shouM 1 of Cowper continually in her memory, — i should tlov. n tu rally and not •• As if raised by more mechanic powers."

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The secret of our conversation being entertaining or the reverse consists mainly on our powers of suiting it to the minds of those with whom we are speaking. With some it is necessary to make but little effort for they much prefer to talk themselves, and it is then the duty of the hostess to listen with as much interest as she can command. Other people are shy, and then a good deal of tact is required to find out subjects congenial to them, for there are sure to be some in which they are interested, and it is well for the mistress of a household to know a little of the current topics of the day. Cheerfulness. — We cannot too strongly insist on the vital importance of always preserving an equable good temper amidst all the little cares and worries of domestic life. Many women may be heard to declare that men cannot realize the petty anxieties of a household. But a woman must cultivate that tact and forbearance without which no man can hope to succeed in his career. The true woman combines with mere tact that subtle sympathy which makes her the loved companion and friend alike of husband, children and all around her. Stevenson's prayer is worth remembering: " The day returns, and brings us the petty round of irritating concerns and duties. Help us to play the man, help us to perform them with laughter and kind faces, let cheerfulness abound with industry. Give us to go blithely on our business all this day, bring us to our resting beds weary and content and undishonoured, and grant us in the end the gift of sleep."

On the Important Subject of Dress and Fashion we cannot do better than quote: " Let people write, talk, lecture, satirize, as they may, it cannot be denied that, whatever is the prevailing mode in attire, let it intrinsically be ever so absurd, it will never look as ridiculous as another, which, however convenient, comfortable, or even becoming is totally opposite in style to that generally worn." A lady's dress should be always suited to her circumstances, and varied for different occasions. The morning dress should be neat and simple, and suitable for the domestic duties that usually occupy the early part of the day. This dress should be changed before calling hours; but it is not in good taste to wear much jewellery except with evening dress. A lady should always aim at being well and attractively dressed whilst never allowing questions of costume to establish inordinate claims on either time or purse. In purchasing her oWn garments, «after taking account of the important detail of the length of her purse, she should aim at adapting the style of the day in such a manner as best suits the requirements of her face, figure and complexion, and never allow slavish adherence to temporary fads of fashion to overrule her own sense of what is becoming and befitting. She should also bear in mind that her different costumes have to furnish her with apparel for home wear, outdoor exercise and social functions, and try to allot due relative importance to the claims of each.

The advice of Polonius to his son Laertes, in Hamlet, is excellent;

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THi: MISTRESS 13 and although given to one of the male sex, will equally apply to the question of a woman's dress: — ily thy habit as thy purse ran l>uy.

But not express' d in fancy; rich, not gaudy; For the apparel oft proci Man. "

Charity is a Duty and privilege that we owe to ourselves as well as to our needy neighbours. There is, we hope, hardly any one so poor, but thai with a little thought he can give assistance, in woik- it not in goods, to others. As a poet has sung — " Is thy cruse of comfort -»• and share it with And through all t! ine It shall serve thee and thy brother, the heart grows rich by ^ All its wealth is living ^i Seeds that moulder in the K.I:

the plainScanty food for one Make a royal feast for t w< >rk, care and time are however necessary if our gifts are to have the best effect. Fortunately, the duty of visiting the poor, whether in crowded city slums or rustic villages, was never more widrlv recognized than at nt time. It should not be necess. urge all who undertake this duty to lay aside any patronizing attitude, which may do untold harm. A heartfelt sense ot honest, self-supporting jxnerty is one of the first essentials in such work. Marketing. Much mtormation for guidance and assi 11 be found in our average price lists in the chap the observations before the cookery sections for Ii, Poultry. it. etc. That the best articles \\ill ii the long run, and that the purchase of low pri» rd and untrustworthy sub hie articles should be avoided,;>e laid down as fundamental rules for marketing I1 's most l>le that whenever possible ress should herself purchase all stores needed for the home. Should the young v. know -e subjects, a little personal practice soon teach her the best articles to buy and the most reliable places to Accounts of Household Expenditure should always ! punctually and precisely. The best pl.m for ' -ehold accounts is to lown in a daily diai \.mount, be it ever so small, spent each day; then. nd of a week or month, let these payments IK- ranged under their various heads of Hi:. etc. Thus tin- amount* paid to rat h: -will b< and any week's or month's expe; \\ith those of another. The housekeeping accounts sh,,ukl be balanced not -once a \ liould be the money in h md. h the account^. ".My ad

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said Mr. Micawbcr to David Copperfield, " you know. Annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure nineteen, nineteen six, result happiness. Annual income twenty pounds, annual expenditure twenty pounds, ought and six, result misery. The blossom is blighted, the leaf is withered, the God of day goes down upon the dreary scene, and in short you are for ever floored." Once a month it is advisable that the mistress overlook her store of glass and china, marking any breakages on the inventory of these articles. When a housekeeper is entrusted with these duties, the mistress should examine her accounts regularly. Then, any increase of expenditure can easily be examined, the mistress will have a regular check upon her expenditure, and the housekeeper who strives to manage her department well and economically will know that her efforts are appreciated.

Engaging Servants is one of the most important duties the mistress is called upon to perform. One of the commonest ways of procuring servants is to answer advertisements or to insert a notice, setting forth what kind of servant is required. In these advertisements it is well to state whether the house is in town or country, and indicate the wages given. There are many respectable registry-offices, where good servants may be hired. A good plan is for the mistress to tell her friends and acquaintances of the vacant place. A lady whose general relations with her domestics are friendly, and fairly permanent, will seldom need to employ any of these methods. Suitable applicants will soon present themselves to fill the vacant places, generally friends of the domestic who is obliged to leave.

We would here point out an error — and a grave one — into which some mistresses fall. They do not, when engaging a servant, tell her all the duties which she will be expected to perform. All the work which the maid will have to do should be plainly set forth by the mistress, and understood by the servant. If this plan is not carefully adhered to, misunderstanding is almost certain to occur, and may not be easily settled.

Servants' Character. — It is hardly safe to be guided by a written one from an unknown quarter; it is better to have an interview, if possible, with the former mistress. In this way you will be helped in your decision as to the fitness of the servant by the appearance of her former place. No mistress desires a needless change of servants. The proper way to obtain a personal interview with a servant's former employer is to tell the applicant for the situation to ask her former mistress to appoint a convenient time when you may call on her; this courtesy being necessary to prevent any unseasonable intrusion on the part of a stranger. Your first questions should be relative to the honesty and general morality of the servant; and if the replies are satisfactory, her other qualifications are then to be ascertained. Inquiries should be very minute, so that you may avcid disappointment and trouble,

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by knowing the v.-eak points of your domestic. Your questions also should be brief, as well as to the point.

In giving a Character, it is scarcely necessary to say that one should;ided by a sense of strict justice. It is not right to recommend a servant one would not keep oneself. The benefit to the servant herself is of small advantage, for the failings which she possesses will increase if indulged with impunity. At the same time, a mistress should never fail to do strict and impartial justice to any merits of her late servant, and should always remember the vital value of good references to one who depends on her labour for a living.

The Treatment of Servants is of the greatest importance to both mistress and domestics. If the latter perceive that their mistress's conduct is regulated by high and correct principles, they will not fail to respect her; and if a real desire is shown to promote their comfort, while at the same time a steady performance of their duty is exacted, then well-principled servants will be anxious to earn approval, and their respect will not be unmingled with affection.

A lady should never allow herself to forget the important duty of watching over the moral and physical welfare of those beneath her roof. Without seeming unduly inquisitive, she can ah n sometlr their acquaintances and holiday occupation, and should, when; sary, warn them against the dangers and evils of bad company. An hour should be fixed, usually 10 or 9 p.m., after which no servant should be allowed to stay out. To permit breaches of this rule, without having good and explicit reasons furnish r from being a kindness to the servant concerned. The moral responsibility for evil that may result rests largely on the employer who permits late hours. Especial care is needed with young girls. They should be given opportunities Icoming respectable triends at their employer's house, and not be forced by absence of such provision for their comfort to spend their time out of doors, often in driving rain, j^ossibly in bad company. Wages of Servants. — The following Table of the average yearly v. paid to doi ite the expenditure of an establishment. The amounts givm will, of course, vary according to experience and localit. supply and demand. No Table could possibly be given which would not be subject to alteration under special circumstances, but taken as a Average these payments v.Hl he appropriate and form as reliable a guide as could possibly be given. In most establishments such men-servants as coachman, footman, and page, are provided with livery by their employers. This does not affect the question of wages.

Whilst writing on this subje- t. we would warn the youiu; uite not to let mistaken notions of economv make her lose, for the sake of saving a t title in wage>. the services of a trusted and efficient domestic. The diitei \pcnse b< >od and bad servants in a house can only be learned by expei ienre. A really good servant can save her

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employers far more than her wages and keep amount to, a bad one would be a poor bargain if she gave her services for nothing. MEN SERVANTS.

House Steward.

''• From £60 to £100 Groom of the Chambers, £45,, £55 Valet:, £35 „ £50 Cook,, £100 Head Gardener (not in the house)... „ £70 to £120 Under Gardener „ £40 „ £45 Butler „ £55 „ £90 Under Butler „ £35 „ £45 Footman, £18 „ £40 Under Footman „ £18 „ £34 Second Footman., £18 „ £34 Coachman „ £40 „ £70 Coachman (not in the liou'-e) „ £70 „ £90 Groom..'.''.... £25,, £35 Under Groom „ £18,, £25 Stable Boy, £6 „ £12 Servants' Hall Boy,. £6 „ £12 Steward's Boy „ £8 „ £15 Head Gamekeeper,..,, £100 „ £1.^0 Under Gamekeeper „ £50 „ £7° WOMFN SFRVANTS Everything found, or an allowance tor the same.

Housekeeper From £30 to £60 Lady's Maid „ £25 „ £40 Cook „ £20 „ £60 Kitchen Maid „ £16 „ £28 Scullery Maid „ £14 „ £18 Still-room Maid „ £18 „ £28 Head Nurse, £25 „ £35 Under Nurse., £12 „ £18 Head Laundry Maid j, £22 „ £30 Under Laundry Maid, £12 „ £20 Parlour Maid, £20 „ £35 Head Housemaid, £20 „ £28 Under Housemaid, £14 „ £18 General Servant, £12 „ £28 These are the wages that prevail in or near the Metropolis. The wages of under servants vary considerably according to locality; and they axe often much lower in large establishments where young servants receive a good training than in middle-class households. Number of Servants suited to different incomes. — The following is a rough scale of servants suited to various incomes. It is, however, impossible to give any general rule in these matters. Whether in a household of moderate means such as our scales deal with, a man-servant is required, will depend upon whether the house is situated in town or country, and if the possession of horses or a

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garden renders his services imperative. One should not forget that when heavy expenses such as those of education have to be incurred for a family, this outlay must be carefully allowed for, before committing oneself in other directions. Similarly, where two servants are kept, and a nurse is required for young children, it will probably be deemed wise to dispense with the services of the housemaid, and arrange for the nurse to give some help to the cook. When one is considering if an extra servant is necessary or not, it is well to remember that assistance may sometimes be profitably arranged by engaging a lad for two or three hours a day to do such rough work as cleaning boots and shoes, working in the garden, etc.; and, when uncertain whether to engage a gardener, one should not forget that a man not coming more than four days a week does not render an employer liable to the duty on man servants. About;£i,ooo a year. Cook, housemaid, and perhaps a man-servant. From ^750 to £500 a year. Cook, housemaid.

About £300 a year. General servant.

About £200 a year. Young girl for rough work.

Daily Duties. — Having thus indicated the pen- of a mistress in the m<> nmcnt of her household, we will now pive a few instructions on practical details. To do this m< begin with the earliest duties, and set forth the occupations of the day.

Before Breakfast.— Having risen early and attended to the (oilet, sec that the child' proj>er < are. and an and comfortable. Tlie first meal oj the day, l>n<akiast. will then be served, at which all the family should be j. mutually present, unless illness, or other eireumstances. prevcn breakfast is over, the mistress should make a round of the kitchen and other offio that all is in order, and that the early nvrnin has been properly performed by the various domestics. The orders for the day should •ions which the domestics may ask should be and any articles they require given out. Where a houseis engaged, she will of course perform the above-named <: upt notice should be taken of the first appearance of slackt. or any faults in domestic work, so that the servant may know that her mistress is quick to detect the least disorder, and will ^factory work. Small faults allowed to pass unreproved. ly increase. A failing easily cured if promptly dealt with, is almost hopeless when it has been allowed to develop into a habit. After this General Superintendence of her. the mistress will probably have a certain number of letters to write, possibly some marketshopping to do, besides numberless small duties which are better in the day, such as arranging the flowers for drawing-room and dinner-table, etc. If she be the mother of a young family there may be some instruction to give them, or some of their wardrobes

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to inspect, and needlework to be done. Time should also be allotted for reading and harmless recreation.

If a lady does much plain needlework a sewing-machine is indispensable. With its help she can make and mend many articles used by her children and herself, and this without undue fatigue. The assistance of such an appliance is invaluable in every home, especially to a mother of daughters. Hand-sewing is slow and laborious, and unless provided with a sewing-machine, there is little inducement for any one to practise home-dressmaking. Apart from the valuable experience gained in cutting-out, fitting, altering and re-making, a great saving may be effected.

Luncheon. — In establishments where an early dinner is served, that meal will, of course, take the place of the luncheon. In many houses, where a nursery dinner is provided for the children about one o'clock, the elder members of the family usually make their luncheon at the same time. If circumstances are not strongly against the arrangement, the children of the house should take their dinner with their mother. It is far better for children to have their principal meal in the company of their mother and other members of the family, as soon as they are able to feed themselves properly. Many little vulgar habits and faults of speech and manner are avoided by this companionship. The mother can thus better watch over her children's health, and see that their food is properly cooked, served, and suited to them. Children who are accustomed to the society of their seniors at their meals will not be awkward or shy with visitors, or when they are staying from home. The nurse, likewise, by this plan is released, for a short period, from the care of her little charges, and, while she enjoys her dinner with her fellow-servants, "waiting on the nurse," a great objection with many housemaids, is avoided. Visiting. — After luncheon, morning calls and visits may be made and received. These may be divided under three heads; those of ceremony, friendship, and congratulation or condolence. Visits of ceremony or courtesy, which occasionally merge into those of friendship, are to be paid under various circumstances. Thus, they are uniformly required after dining at a friend's house, or after a ball, picnic, or any other party. These visits should be short, a stay of from fifteen to twenty minutes being quite sufficient.

When other visitors are announced, it is well to leave as soon as possible, taking care not to give the impression that your departure has been hastened by the arrival of the new guest. When they are quietly seated, and the bustle of their entrance is over, rise from your chair, taking a kind leave of the hostess, and bowing politely to the guests. Should you call at an inconvenient time, not having ascertained the luncheon hour, or from any other inadvertence, retire as soon as possible without, however, showing that you feel yourself an intruder. It is not difficult to make suitable excuses on such an

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THE MISTRF.SS 10 occasion, and a promise «.vn be made to call again, if the lath •1 on appear really sorry that circumstances have caused you Tt^n your visit.

Visits of Friendship need not be so formal as those of ceremony. It is, however, advisable to call at suitable times, and to avoid staying too long if your friend is engaged. Courtesy and consideration for others are safe rules in these every-day matters. During visits manners should be easy and unstrained, and conversation natural and unforced. It is not advisable to take pet dogs into another lady's house, for there are people who have an absolute dislike to animals; besides this, there is always a chance of the animal breaking something, to the annoyance of the hostess. 1 \. t in the case of close friends or special invitation, little children should not accompany a lady in making morning calls. Where a lady, however, pays her \ isits in a carriage, the children can be taken, remaining in the carriage when the caller inters her friend It has now become gcr >s of a house to set aside one tort night or month, as the cast. on \\hich at home to:•. Wherever t I to be the case, casual \i to call on that day. It is hardly necessary to add that a lady should always be prepared for her to be from home on such a day, she nv -illy inform all her aojuamgood tii be spared a fruitless journey.

:i a lady has n\ol i.< i "At Home -id cards have been I as, for example, M At Home on W trom 4 to 7," should be provided by the hostess, supplies of it. with thin bread -and -!• forthcoming as fresh guest > Morning Calls demand good but neat attire, a costume much elaborate than that w: will IK* out of;, As a general rule, it may be said, both in reference to this and all other ssed.

A strict account should be kept of cercmom and notice be h«>w soon your via rned. An opinion ma, be formed as to whether yoi: re, or are not, desirable. are. naturally, instances 1:1 \\hieh fcl instances of old age or ill-health will preclude any return of a call; but when this is the case, it must not interrupt the discharge of the duty by those who no such excuses t In all \ i air acquaintance or friend be not at home, a card should IK- left. If you are in a carriage, the servant will answer your in<jui; 4t \\aiting for you to alight, if >n foot, g; card to the servant who.; the door. The form 01 may be understood ises; but the only courtcou <em as

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being perfectly true. You may imagine that the lady of the house is really at home, and that she would make an exception in your favour, or you may think that your call is not desired; but, in either case, not the slightest word is to escape you which would suggest, on your part, such an impression.

Visits of Condolence should be paid within a week after the event which occasions them. If the acquaintance, however, is but slight, they should not be made until immediately after the family has appeared in public. A lady should send in her card, and, if her friends be able to receive her, the visitor's manner and conversation should be subdued, and in harmony with the character of her visit. Visitors paying visits of condolence should be dressed in black, or at any rate very quietly. Sympathy with the affliction of the family is thus expressed.

Receiving Morning Calls. — The foregoing description of the etiquette to be observed in paying them will apply to the receiving of calls. It is to be added, however, that, generally speaking, all occupations should be suspended on the entrance of morning visitors. If a lady, however, be engaged with light needlework, she may continue it quietly during conversation, particularly if the visit be protracted. Formerly the custom was to accompany all departing visitors to the door of the house, and there take leave of them; but modern society, which dispenses with a great deal of this kind of ceremony, now merely requires that the lady of the house should rise from her seat, shake hands, or bow, and ring the bell to summon the servant to attend them and open the door. In making a first call, either upon a newlymarried couple or on persons newly arrived in the neighbourhood, a lady should leave her husband's card, together with her own, at the same time stating that the profession or business in which he is engaged has prevented him from having the pleasure of paying the visit with her. It is a custom with many ladies, when on the eve of an absence from their neighbourhood to leave or send their own and husband's cards, with the letters P. P. C. in the right-hand corner. These letters are the initials of the French words Pour prendre conge, meaning " To take leave."

Visiting Cards and Invitations. — The fashion of visiting cards used to vary much, some being made extremely thin, but those of medium thickness are now usually preferred. When calling at a house, it used to be customary to turn up the lower right-hand corner of the card, to denote that a personal call had been made, but this is not general any longer. Tennis and croquet invitations are issued with the word at the bottom right-hand corner. For Soirees, " At Homes," Conversaziones, Dinners and Balls, invitation cards are used; but for Weddings the invitations are issued upon notepaper. Gilt edges and gilt decorations are not often used nowadays, nor is the monogram, or crest, or both frequently embossed at the head of the paper.

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It is customary at many houses during summer to give tennis or croquet teas. The meal is very informal, and often served out of doors. Iced tea, coffee, claret-cup, etc., are served, with sandwiches, pastry, cakes and other light viands. The tables are set under shady trees, and a couple of servants or members of the family are in attendance at them, the visitors themselves going to the table for \\hat they may want. The following is a form for wedding invitations: — Mr. and Mrs. A request the pleasure of Mr. and Mrs. B 's company on the occasion of the marriage of their daughter Alice with Fn\:

<$ Ceremony on Wednesday, 14 June, at Church, at — o'clock, and a/tetwards at.

R.S.V.P.

The morning calls having been paid or received, and their etiquette properly attended to, the next great event of the day in most establishments is " The Dinner "; and we will only make a few &« remarks on tlu's important subject here, as in future pages the wl.de " Art of Dining " will be thoroughly considered, with reference io its economy, comfort and enjoyment.

Invitations for Dinner. In giving these it is usual to give from a 8 to three weeks' nut ice, and luimal ones a.

cards, such as the following — request the pleasure of company at dinner on the at o'clock.

HOWARD HOUSE.

KENSINGTON, \V. R.S.V.P.

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In accepting an invitation the form of words used ishave much pleasure in accepting kind invitation for while in declining one it is usual to say — regret they are unavoidably prevented {or that a previous engagement prevents them] from accepting kind invitation for Before the Dinner. — A dinner-party, in an establishment where such an event is of rare occurrence, is apt to cause great anxiety to the inexperienced hostess, particularly when she cannot place full reliance in the training and capabilities of her servants. But, whatever her fears of disaster may be, she must meet her guests with a bright and cheery welcome.

In giving any entertainment of this kind, the hostess should endeavour to make the guests enjoy the time spent under her roof, and the guests themselves should remember that they have come with the object of mutual entertainment. An opportunity is thus given to all for innocent pl3asure and intellectual intercourse, in the course of which pleasant and valuable friendships may be formed and information acquired that may prove useful through life. Many celebrated men and women have been great talkers; and one may recall the genial Sir Walter Scott, who would speak freely to any one, and was wont to say that he never did so without learning something.

With respect to the number of guests, it has often been said, that a private dinner-party should consist of not less than the number of the Graces, or more than that of the Muses. A party of ten or twelve is,

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perhaps, as a general rule, sufficient for enjoyment. Gloves are worn by ladies at dinner-parties, but should be taken off before the actual meal begins.

Going to Dinner. — Dinner having been announced, the host offers his arm to, and places on his right hand at the dinner-table, the lady to whom he desires to pay most respect, either on account of her age, position, or because she is the greatest stranger in the party. If this lady be married and her husband present, the latter takes the hostess — who always enters the dining-room last — to her place at table, and seats himself at her right hand. The rest of the company follow the host in couples, as specified by the master or mistress of the house, the whole party being arranged according to their rank and other circumstances which may be known to the host and hostess. Guest Cards. — It will be found of great assistance to the placing of a party at the dinner-table, to have the names of the guests neatly written on small cards called " Guest cards " and placed at that part of the table where it is desired the several guests should sit. It is a matter of taste what cards should be used for this purpose; small plain ones are perfectly admissible, but those with gold, silver or coloured borders are more effective and show more distinctly, laid as tin upon cither white table cloths or serviettes. Some with floral orna.tion are frequently used. Sometimes the menu card is a double one, which folds like a ball programme, and upon the ou of this the guest's name is written.

The Dinner d la Russe, introduced into England about the middle of the nineteenth century, has now lace of the old custom of having all the dishes served from the table. The t>«. of dinner is fully dealt with in subsequent pages. Dessert.— When dinner is finished, the dessert is placed on the ' accompanied by finger-glasses, in which the tips of the fingei dipped after the fruit or sweetmeats of this c« been ta! Leaving the Dinner Table.— When fruit has been taken, and a glass or two of wine passed round, the time will ha i \vhen the hostess, after catching the eye of the lady first in precedence, rises, and gives her guests the signal to retire to the drawing-room. The gentlemen will rise at the same time, and the one nearest the door open it for the ladies, all courteously standing until the last lady has withdrawn. In former times, when the bottle circulated freely amongst the guests, the ladies retired earlier than they do at present. Thanks, however, to the changes time has wrought, strict moderation is now invariable amongst gentlemen, and they now take but a brief interval for tobacco. talk, and coffee, before they rejoin the ladies.

After-dinner Invitations, by which we mean invitations for the evening, may be -ivm. The time of arrival ol:tors will vary nco'vdin;,' to their engagements, or son: -thence to the caprices of fashion. Guests invited for the evening arc, li encr-

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ally considered at liberty to arrive whenever it will best suit themselves — usually between nine and twelve, unless earlier hours are specifically named. By this arrangement, those who have numerous engagements to fulfil, can contrive to make their appearance at two or three parties in the course of one evening.

Ball or Evening Party Etiquette. — The etiquette of the dinner-party table being disposed of, let us now enter into that of an evening party or ball. The invitations for these are usually on "At Home " cards, filled in with the name and address of the sender and the date of the invitation, with the word " Dancing " or " Music," as the case may be, in one corner. They should be sent out about three weeks before the day fixed for the event, and should be replied to within a week of their receipt. By attention to these courtesies, the guests will have time to consider their engagements, and prepare their dresses, and the hostess will learn in good time the number of guests likely to be present.

Short or verbal invitations, except to relatives or close friends, are not, formally speaking, correct, but, of course, very much depends on the circumstances under which the invitation is given. Social forms, while never allowed to become a fetish, should not be altogether neglected even among close friends and relatives, for unintentional neglect of a customary formality may be misunderstood and strain a valued friendship.

Arrival of Guests. — Visitors on arrival should be shown to a room exclusively provided for their reception; and in that set apart for the ladies, attendants should be in waiting to assist those ladies who may require help. It will be found convenient, where the number of guests is large, to provide numbered tickets, so that they can be attached to the cloaks and wraps of each visitor; a duplicate of the ticket should be handed to the guest. Tea and coffee is provided in an ante-room, for those who would like to partake of it.

Introductions. — The lady of the house usually stands at the door of the drawing-room to receive her guests. She may introduce some of them to others, where she may imagine mutual acquaintance will be suitable and agreeable. It is very often the practice of the master of the house to introduce one gentleman to another, but occasionally the lady performs this office.

The custom of non-introduction is very much in vogue in many houses, and guests are thus left to discover for themselves the position and qualities of the people around them. The servant, indeed, calls out the names of all the visitors as they arrive, but, in many instances, mispronounces them; so that it will not be well to follow this information, as if it were an unerring guide. But the gentleman is, of course, introduced by either host or hostess to the lady whom he is to take in to dinner.

Refreshments. — A separate room or buffet should be set apart for

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Til TRESS refreshments. A supper is also often provided at private parties; and equires, on the part of the hostess, a great deal of attention and supervision. It usually takes place between the first and second parts of the dances arranged. Programmes of these dances are printed in various forms, and have pencils attached. The monogram of the hostess, or the name of the house, with the date of the party, frequently heads these programmes.

At Private Parties, a lady should not refuse the invitation of a gentleman to dance, unless she be previously engaged. The hostess must be supposed to have asked to her house only those persons whom she knows to be of good character, as well as fairly equal position; hence to d«. -i line the offer of any gentleman present would be a tacit reflection on tl.o master and mistress of the house. It may be mentioned here that an introduction at balls or evening parties does not necessanh subsequent acquaintanceship, no introduction, at these times. -i\ing a gentleman a right afterwards to address a lady. She is consequently A xt morning to pass her partner at a ball of the previous e\ without the slightest recognition, if she prefers to do so. Dancing. — The ball is generally opened by the lady of the house, load off the dance with the lady highest in rank of those present or the greatest stranger, it will be well for the hostess, even if she is an ardent and accomplished dancer, not to indulge in the art to an unlimited extent, as the duties of entertaining make lerable demands on her attention and time. A i suffice to show that she shares in the pleasures of the evening. The hostess and host, during the progress of a ball, will chat with their friends, and take care the ladies are furnished with seats, and that those who wish to dance arc provided with partners, A gentlfrom the hostess that a lady lacks a partner during several dances, is;i not to be neglected by a,. In this way the comfort and enjoyment of the guests can be promoted, and n;oncc the sensation of being a wallfl. ughout t!

other cares, the mistress has frequently the added duties of a chaperon either of her own or some friend's daughters. Without ilations, or preventing the enjoyment of her charges, she must be able to ensure their doing nothing that is cither oulrt or in bad form. At a ball she will take special care that her charges always know where to find her, though no reasonable chaperon will expect a girl to be always with her.

Departure. — \\ of the carriages ate announced, or the time for of the guests arrives, they should bid farewell to the hostes it attracting the attention of the other guests to tin ir departure It this cannot be done without creating too much bu>tl<-. it will K> better for the visitors to retire quietly without taking \Vit!i!-i i the entertainment, the hostess should i« from every guest a call, where possible, or cards expressing thegratinca-

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tion experienced from her entertainment. To neglect such an obvious duty is an offence against all social rules Having shortly treated different forms of social gatherings, we now return to the ordinary routine of the household, though all the details we have given of dinner parties, balls, etc., belong to the department of the mistress. Without a knowledge of the etiquette to be observed on these occasions, a mistress would be unable to enjoy and appreciate those friendly meetings which, giving a pleasant change, make the quiet, happy life of an English gentlewoman the more enjoyable. In their proper places, all that is necessary to be known respecting the dishes and appearance of the breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper tables will be set forth in this work.

Home Gatherings are more frequent and more important than social entertainments. Both, however, have to be studied with a view to efficiency, enjoyment and economy. These points will be dealt with in the pages on " Cookery." Here we will only say, that for both mistress and servants, it will be found wise to cook and serve the dinner, and to lay the tablecloth and the sideboard, with the same cleanliness, neatness and scrupulous exactitude, whether it be for the family, or for " company." If this be strictly adhered to, the details of work will become as second nature to all energies, and the trifling extra trouble entailed is amply repaid by the increased efficiency of servants, the feeling that one is always prepared for any chance callers, and the moral stimulus that is given by having all things done decently and in order. Evenings at Home should form a pleasant, improving and restful portion of the daily round. Few hours of the day present more opportunities for forming and strengthening good habits and tendencies among the young. In many homes this is the only time when the busy father has the opportunity, and the mother the leisure, to share in the pursuits and pastimes of their children. If children do not find pleasure at home they will seek it elsewhere, often in undesirable directions. Hence it should form part of the settled domestic policy of every parent to make children feel that home is one of the happiest places in the world, thus cultivating in them an attachment to home interests that may prove an invaluable safeguard in the crucial years of their youth. With this object in view all innocent games and pastimes should be encouraged; the young collector, naturalist, carpenter or engineer should be helped in his interesting and instructive hobbies. Games of skill, like chess and draughts, which have an educational value, should be introduced and opportunity given for cricket, cycling, walking, hockey and healthy sport, whilst children who show any talent for music, drawing, modelling, composition, etc., should know that a keen interest is taken in their pursuits.

Fancy needlework often forms a portion of the evening's recreation for the ladies of the household, and this may be made more pleasant by reading aloud some standard work, whether of instruction, humour,

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6r romance, and there is no greater safeguard against those low-class and pernicious publications, which, alas ! abound, than an early acquaintance with the real masterpieces of literature. Retiring for the Night. — It is well to remember that early rising is almost impossible if retiring to rest at a late hour is the practice of the household. The younger members of a family should go early and at regular hours to their beds, and the domestics as soon as possible after a reasonably appointed hour. Either the master or the mistress of a house should, after all have gone to their separate rooms, see that all is right with respect to lights and fires below; and no servants should on any account be allowed to remain up after the heads of the house have retired.

Having thus dealt with daily routine from rising at morning to retiring at night, there remain only now to be considered a few matters, respecting which the mistress of the house may be glad to receive information.

When taking a House in a new locality, it will be etiquette for the mistress to wait until the older inhabitants of the neighbourhood call upon her, thus evincing a desire, on their part, to become acquainted with the new-comer. It may be, that the mistress will desire an intimate acquaintance with but few of her neighbours; but it is to be specially borne in mind that all visits, whether of ceremony, friendship, or condolence, should be punctiliously returned, though some time may be allowed to elapse in the case of undesirable acquaintance. Letters of Introduction. — You may perhaps have been favoured with letters of introduction from some of your friends, to persons living in the neighbourhood to which you have just come. In this case, enclose the letter of introduction in an cnvelojx?, with your card, if the person to whom it is addressed call in the course of a the visit should be returned by you within the week, if ]x>ssiblc. 1' ifl now more usual to write by the post and introduce a friend, instead of leaving everything to be said by the letter that is gr In the event of your being invited to dinner under the above circumstances, nothing but necessity should; you from accepting the invitation. If, however, there is some distinct reason why you cannot accent, let it be stated frankly and plainly. An opportunityshould, also, be call in the c« a day or two, in order to express your regret that untoward circu; - have made it impossil -u to l»e | nvsent.

In Giving a Letter of Introduction, it should always !>•• handed to your friend uir-altd. Courtesy tii<. i.. uhoin you are introducing would, perhaps, wish to know in what inaniu-s i.oken of. Should you receive a letter from a friend, introducing •rson known to and r-.io imd 1>\ tin- \\iu.i. the letter:r willingness e\j to do all in your power to carry out his or her wishes.

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Order and Punctuality are so important to the comfort and happiness of the household that every mistress should fix stated hours for meals, etc., which ought to be strictly observed by every member of the family.

ORDER OF THE HOUSEHOLD fHorning Drapers, 8.45 A.M.

" Forsake not the assembling of yourselves together."

MEALS.

Breakfast (Kitchen & Nursery). 8a.m.

,, (Dining-Room).. 8.30,, Kitchen Dinner... 12.30 p.m.

Luncheon 1.30,, Kitchen and Nursery Tea..5 M Dinner 6.30,, Kitchen Supper.... 9 „ o POST ARRIVES. 8 A.M.

" Kind words in which we feel the pressure of a hand."

POST DEPARTS. 8.30A.M. & 6 P.M.

" A timely written letter is a rivet in the chain of affection."

Pleasures and Duties in due order linked.

o praocrs, 10 P.M.

The specimen card of order of the household will guide the mistress in drawing up a set of rules adapted to the special requirements of her own home.

Furnishing a House is an anxious and onerous undertaking, involving far more ramifications, details and difficulties than can be dealt with here. A few useful elementary rules to be observed are as follows: before purchasing a single article, the future abode should be carefully inspected, and a careful plan made with exact measurements of the height, length and breadth of every room and of all recesses contained in them, for a few inches difference more or less will render quite impossible or useless for your room a suite or article of furniture fancied by you, or recommended by the plausible salesman, who has never seen the house to be furnished. Then, still, before any purchases are made, a list of the articles desired and necessary for the new house should be made, re-made, altered and considered, priced and re-priced, estimated and re-estimated. No trouble or care can be considered excessive in this task, for to most people, furnishing from cellar to attic, as the phrase

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goes, is a task that comes to us but once in our existence, and some of the articles selected may have to last for a lifetime. Should money be limited, the sum that can be devoted to this purpose should be carefully fixed, and if the amount is not found sufficient for all requirements, the expenditure on all strictly necessary articles should be estimated and allowed for, before letting the fancy stray after superfluities and luxuries. This may seem a very obvious rule, but it is one often neglected. The scarcity of vile dross that prevents us from ordering all we think we need for our new establishment, may be a blessing in disguise, for many of those quaint and interesting articles that lend so much individuality and artistic charm to a dwelling can never be purchased in bulk, but must be acquired by a combination of good luck, good taste and loving search. The time required for an exciting hunt after articles of beauty, quaint ugliness, or romantic interest, will not be grudged by many young couples, for each treasure thus acquired tends to give fresh interest in the beautifying of a home. These rules consid catalogues compared, and the advantages and drawbacks of old and new furniture weighed, the prospective householder will be prepared to face the allurements of Tottenham Court Road and elsewhere. Every possible information about kitchen furniture and utensils, with carefully compiled price lists, will be found in a later chapter. It is now usual for the landlord to allow the incoming tenant to choose ill papers, and:ld advise our readers not to mind t considerable trouble in this respect. 1 1 is well to think whether the rooms require light or dark papers; the furniture and nh which thoy are to be associated should also be considered. In few 1 1 care and taste better repaid than in such careful cli..mid recommend our readers not to rest content with the sample books furnished by their landlord, but to inspect the designs of the best known and most artistic firms.

Choosing a House.— Many mistresses have experienced the horrors of house-hunting, and it is well known that " three removes are as good (or bad, rather) as a fire."

The choice of a house must depend on various circumstances with nt people, and to give any specific directions on this head would be impossible and useless, yet it will be desirable to point out some of the general features as to locality, soil, aspect, etc., which all house-hunters should carefully consider.

irding the locality, we may say. speaking more particular a town house, that it is important to the health and comfort of a family that the neighbourhood of all factories producing unwholesome or offensive emanations or odours should be strictly avoided. Neither is it well to take a house in the immediate vicinity of a noisy trad. ould prove a constant annoyance.

a house on lease, get a competent surveyor to inspect ite of tl:< roof, gutters, etc. Do not

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rely upon the statements of an agent, or any one interested in letting the house. When circumstances permit, it is well to stay for some time in the neighbourhood to ascertain if it suits your health and taste before removing there.

Referring to soils: it is held as a rule, that a gravel soil is best, as the rain drains through it very quickly, and it is consequently less damp than clay, upon which water rests a far longer time. Sand, chalk, and clay soils all possess their respective merits, but the latter should be avoided by those subject to rheumatic affections.

The aspect of the house should be well considered, remembering that the more sunlight comes into the house the healthier is the habitation. A house with a south or south-west aspect is lighter, warmer, drier, and consequently more healthy, than one facing the north or north-east. Great advances have been made of late in sanitary knowledge, and the first point to inspect in a house is its drainage, as it has been proved in thousands of cases that bad or defective drainage is as certain to destroy health as the taking of poison. This arises from its injurious effect upon the atmosphere, which renders the air we breathe unwholesome and dangerous. Let us remember, then, that unless the drainage of a house is perfect, the health of its inhabitants is sure to suffer; and they will be susceptible to diphtheria, typhoid and all kinds of fevers and disease. A damp house also fosters rheumatism, ague, etc. The importance of a good water supply can scarcely be over estimated. No house, however suitable in other respects, should be taken if this important source of health and comfort is in the slightest degree scarce or impure. We cannot take too much care in seeing that it is pure and good, as well as plentiful, knowing as we do its constant influence on the health of a household.

Ventilation is another feature which must not be overlooked. To ensure efficient ventilation both inlet and outlet openings must be provided; the former, as near the floor as possible, without producing a draught; the latter, close to the ceiling. The lower part of the window may be used as an inlet for air when the room is not in use. Iron gratings and perforated bricks fitted into the outer wall, and valves opening into the chimney, can all serve as outlets for foul air. Failing these, the upper sash of the window may be lowered; but this method of ventilation is apt to cause an unpleasant draught, whereas the above-named devices admit and carry off air without any perceptible change of temperature.

Before committing themselves to any agreement for a house, inexperienced readers are advised to consult our " Legal Memoranda," given later on.

Rent. — Some authorities say one-tenth, others one-eighth, of the total income should be spent in rent, but so many circumstances — such as the size of the family, its position, and the locality in which it is necessary to reside — affect this estimate, we are disposed to think it is

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a question best left for careful consideration in each individual case. When facing the problem of taking a new and larger house, one should bear in mind that the mere increase in rent does not represent the whole of the extra, expense that will have to be borne, for besides rates, which of course increase proportionately, a larger house seems invariably to increase expenses all round. Yet it is not easy to give explicit re for this undoubted tendency.

The Responsibilities or Duties of the mistress of a house are. though onerous and important, by no means difficult if given careful an: tematic attention. She ought always to remember that she rules the hold; and by her conduct its whole internal policy is regulated. She is, therefore, a person of far- reaching importance. Her daughters model themselves on her pattern, and are directed by her counsels: — " Her children rise up and call her blessed; her husband also, and he th her." Therefore let each wife, remembering her responsibilities. iat her conduct is such as to earn the love and reverence of her children and her husband.

I.* t her remember the sincere homage paid to the good wife and mother by the great philosophers an-1 writers <>f.ill ages. J Taylor Kiys: "A good wife i;st best gift to man; ngel and minister of graces innumerable; his gem of many virtues; his casket of j: ler voice is sweet mii-ie; her snnlr. her kiss the guardian of his innocence; her the pule of his safety; the balm of his h< balsam of h: her industry. ! th; her ccoiv afcst steward; her lips, his l';utht:il counsellors: her bosom, the sott.-t j.ill,.\v of his Ivocatcsof 1! igs on his h«\ul."

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THE HOUSEKEEPER CHAPTER II Duties and Responsibilities.

As Second in Command in the House, except in large establishments, where there is a house-steward, the housekeeper must consider herself as the immediate representative of her mistress, and bring to her work all the qualities of honesty, industry, and vigilance which would be expected of he- if she were at the head of her own family. Constantly striving to promote the prosperity of the household, she should oversee all that goes on in the house, that every department is thoroughly attended to, and that the servants are comfortable, at the same time that their various duties are properly performed. Cleanliness, punctuality, and method are essentials in the character of a good housekeeper. Without these qualities, no household can be well managed. Order again, is indispensable; by it we provide that " there should be a place for everything, and everything in its Accounts. — A necessary qualification for a housekeeper is that she should thoroughly understand accounts. She will have to write in her books an accurate account of all sums paid for any and every purpose, the current expenses of the house, tradesmen's bills, wages, and many miscellaneous items. As we have mentioned in the previous chapter, a housekeeper's accounts should be periodically examined and checked by the head of the house. Nothing tends more to the satisfaction of both employer and employed than this arrangement. " Short reckonings make long friends " stands good in this case, as in others. The housekeeper should make a careful record of every domestic purchase whether bought for cash or not. This record will be found a useful check upon the bills sent in by the various tradesmen, so that any discrepancy can be inquired into and set right. An intelligent housekeeper will by this means be able to judge of the average consumption of each article in the household; and to prevent waste and carelessness.

The following table of expenses, income, or wages, shows what any sum, from £i to £100 per annum, is, when reckoned per quarter, calendar month, week, or day: — 32

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HIE HOUSEKEEPER MVr \ c.ir.

Jll H t.T.

Per Per \\\vl Pec D.iv.

Per Year, Per Chi.irti-r Per Month.

Per '.

( S. J.

s. d.

s. d d.

£ s. rf.

£ s. d: s. d.

£ s. d.

d I O of II O 0 J I IO 2 !•> i!

13 o o 14 o o 3 • 5 o 3 o 5 o 15 o o 16 o o 4 o 17 o o 6 6} 18 o o 5 ° ~; ' o M 30 o o IO 1) 10 IO 10 4 J 40 o o IO O 7 o 7 i"

15 o.a 50 o o 12 IO » o 3 oj S 10 70 o o 80 o o 20 o ( IO O 'J O 5 o J 5l 90 o o 22 IO !IO 1U *) n 71 ^1 H IO O 10 O 25 o !

Coakhg. Although tin- hoii-okocjM-r dors not;;rnn.illy intnl'm- inm-h in thr.i':tu.il work of thr cook, yet it is necessary that she should Imowledge of cookery; for she has to direct the \\Mik ot others. In some establishments cakes, bre.id. jams, pickl. mad.- in the still-room under the housekeeper's superintendence. Instruction in Cookery.— Happily it is now usual for all voting people to learn something of this art, and it is a valuable accomplishment, no matter to what class they belong, for at some time of their lite it is sure to be ot use. A gfefcl many, too. who do not actually k themselves are,^lad to have the power of checking the work of their cooks, who without such a check would become domestic tyrants. With servants ot this sort a mistress who knows nothing of cooking is ]H>\vcrlr>s. IV lore the existence of cookery schools instruction could only be obtained at home, tnnn the mother, housr!. cook, but now many who desire instruction prefer to avail them- of the many opportunities offered by the cookery schooU and classes. This course has advantages to recommend it; for that a practical teacher, while allowing the pupil considerable freedom of choice, takes care that the lessons comprise dishes which teach the principles of cookery, as well as mere manipulation of the;als. A good teacher also endeavours to inculcate habits ot eronomv. cleanliness, and lidn;.•> the mere details of the science; but it the cook were to teach on the same lines her motive might be misunderstood, and her advice resented. If the pupils would always practise in their own homes the- tidiness and cleanliness thtaught in the schools, they would be less ircipiently regarded nuisance by the cook. Novices should make a rule not to use inn. sary utensils, to wait on oneself as much as possible, and to clear. all materials and utensils when they have finished.

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The Daily Duties of a Housekeeper are regulated, in a great measure, by the size of the establishment she superintends. She should rise early, and see her assistants are duly performing their work, and that the preparations for breakfast are progressing satisfactorily. After breakfast, which, in large establishments, she will take in the " housekeeper's room," with the lady's-maid, butler, and valet, served by one of the under-maids, she will, on days set apart for such purposes, carefully examine the household linen, with a view to its being repaired, or further necessary supplies being procured; she will also see that the furniture throughout the house is well rubbed and polished; and attend to all the necessary details of marketing and ordering goods from the tradesmen.

The Housekeeper's Room is generally made use of by the lady's-maid, butler and valet, who take there their breakfast, tea and supper. The lady's-maid will also use this apartment as a sitting-room, when not engaged with duties which would call her elsewhere. In different establishments, according to their size, means and expenditure of the family, different rules, of course, prevail. For instance, in mansions where great state is maintained, and there is a house-steward, two distinct tables are kept, one in the steward's room for the principal members of the staff, the second in the servants' hall for the other domestics. At the steward's dinner-table, the steward and housekeeper preside; and here, also, may be included the lady's-maid, butler, valet. After Dinner, the housekeeper, having seen that her assistants have returned to their various duties, and that the household is in proper working order, will have many important matters claiming her attention. She will, possibly, have to give the finishing touch to some article of confectionery, or be occupied with some of the more elaborate processes of the still-room. There may also be the dessert to arrange, ice-creams to make; and many employments that call for no ordinary degree of care, taste and attention.

The Still-room was formerly much more common than at present, for in days of " auld lang syne " the still was in constant requisition for the supply of home-made wines, spirits, cordials and syrups, home-made medicines, scents, and other aromatic substances for the toilet, and sweetflavoured waters for the purposes of cookery. There are some establishments, however, in which distillation is still carried on, and in these the still-room maid has her old duties to perform. In a general way, however, this domestic is immediately concerned with the housekeeper. For the latter she lights the fire, dusts her room, prepares the breakfast table, and waits at the different meals taken in the housekeeper's room. A still-room maid may learn a very great deal of useful knowledge from her intimate connexion with the housekeeper, and if she be active and intelligent, may soon fit herself for a better position in the household.

Evening Occupation. — In the evening, the housekeeper will often busy

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THE HOUSEKEEPER 35 herself \vith the necessary preparations for the next day's duties. Numberless small, but still important, arrangements will have to be. so that everything may move smoothly. At times, perhaps, at t CTI lion will have to be paid to the preparation of lump-sugar, spices, candied peel, the stoning of raisins, the washing, cleansing, and drying of currants, etc. The evening, too, is the best time for attending to household and cash accounts, and making memoranda of any articles she may require for her store-room or other departments. IVriodically, at some convenient time — for instance, quarterly or half-yearly — it is a good plan for the housekeeper to make an inventory; \ -thing she has under her care, and compare this with the lists of a former period; she will then be able to furnish a statement, it try, of the articles which, from wear, breakage, loss, or other s, it has been necessary to replace or replenish. Responsibilities. — In concluding these remarks on the duties of the hous.-k< -i -JM T. we will briefly refer to the very great responsibility which ies to her position. Like " Caesar's wife," she should be " above suspicion," and her honesty ancfrsobriety unquestionable; for there are many temptations to which she is exposed. From a physical point of view, a housekeeper should be healthy and strong, and be particularly rhau in her person, and her hands, though they may show a slight of roughness, from the nature of some of her employments, still should have a nice appearance. In he; - with the various nun, and her behaviour to the domestics under her, the Hour and conduct of the housekeeper should never diminish her authority or influence.

Seasons for different kinds of work. — It will be useful for the nv, and housekeeper to know the be>t Masons for various (> i ounce ted with Household Management; and we, accordiii;h, subjoin a few hints which we think will pr <.ble.

In the winter months, some of the servant^ have much more to do, in luence of the neaw-ity there i> I 1 to the necessary In the summer, and when the absence of fir the dom more leisure, a lit ' Spring is the usual period set apart for house-clear.. ivm,,\ inall the dust and dirt which, notwithstanding all precautions, \\ill accumulate during the \\ inter months, from dust, sin s. etc. This Mason is also well adapted for washing and bleaching linen, etc.. it her not being then too hot for the exertions necessary in washing counterpanes, blankets, and ork is and more easily done than in the g: ' 's (.1 July. Winter curtains should be taken down, and replaced by the summer white and furs and winter clothes also carefully laid by. The former should 11 shaken and brushed, and then pinned t;; or linen, with camphor; them 1 oin moths. Spring cleaning must inc'ude the turning out ol,,11 the n.»oks and corners of drawers, cupboards,

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lumber-rooms, etc., with a view to getting rid of unnecessary articles, which left there create dirt and harbour mice and other vermin, though only useless encumbrances left where they are, they may be of great value to one's poorer neighbours. Sweeping chimneys, taking up and cleaning carpets, painting and whitewashing the kitchen and offices, papering rooms, when needed, and, generally speaking, giving the house, a bright and new appearance, for the approaching summer, are among the cares of this season. Oranges should now be preserved, and wine made.

Summer will be found the best period for examining and repairing household linen, and for " putting to rights " all those articles which have received a large share of wear and tear during the winter. The old proverb, " A stitch in time saves nine," applies very strongly to the care of such linen articles as table cloths, serviettes, sheets, pillow-slips, etc., a little early and careful attention to which will often prolong their period of usefulness. In June and July, currants, raspberries, strawberries, gooseberries, and other summer fruits should be preserved, and jams and jellies made. Eggs are cheap and plentiful at this season of the year, and the housekeeper should preserve, by one of the several satisfactory methods, a good supply for the winter months, when eggs, though more in demand than ever, are scarce and dear. Many households also find it economical to purchase in June a supply of salt butter in kegs for winter use. In July, too, the making of walnut ketchup should be attended to, as the green walnuts will be approaching perfection for this purpose. Many other pickles may also be made at this season, full directions for which are given in our pages. Autumn fruit of various kinds, as plums, damsons, blackberries, cranberries and many others, should be bottled and preserved, and jams and jellies made. Pickled mushrooms, mushroom and tomato ketchup, pickled cabbage and beetroot, and many such stores should be prepared at this season. The apples and pears for winter use should now be gathered in and stored. These should be frequently looked over, and any fruit showing symptoms of decay removed. Filberts, cob nuts, and walnuts should also be preserved in sand and salt to prevent them from drying up and decaying.

In September and October it will be necessary to prepare for the cold weather, and get ready the winter clothing for the various members of the family. The white summer curtains will now be carefully put away, the fire-places, grates, and chimneys looked to, and the house put in a thorough state of repair.

In December, the principal household duty lies in preparing for the creature comforts of those near and dear to us, so as to meet Old Christmas with a happy face, a contented mind, and a full larder. And in stoning plums, washing currants, cutting peel, beating eggs, and mixing a pudding, a housewife is not unworthily greeting the season of good will.

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THE COOK CHAPTER III General Advice to the Cook, with Observations on her Duties, and those of the Kitchen and the Scullery Maids Man mi <>ut love— • pining?

man who can live without dining?

We mav ut friend*, we may 1 ks.

But.

u,Uf." by 0»tn \ ook and those who serve umler her arc so intimately ass. an h.inlly be treated of scpara ic cook, howi be clean. dcrly and «p.

.10 arc un icsc good <ju.

Ujx.ll t tilt*:lhnn assistance.

''lishmcir • ook was indeed a great pcrsoi an one. the art receiving a minor or title Inc. iu^< of his sovereign with some dainty dish. In those days Uncock gave ich commanded a view of all that was going on. Each held a long wooden spoon, with which tic tasted. aving his scat, the dainties th.it wore cooking on t and the spoon was i v used as a rod of \. the backs ot those who did not suthcienth s of diligence and ace.

Early Rising.— If, as we have said, early rising is of the utmost importance to t! IK? to the s« rv.int ! 1 uth that wit!..-ami punctuality good work is almost impossible. A cook ought to realize this imi she lose an hour in the morning, she is likely to be k all clay to overtake necessary tasks that would otherwise have been easy to her. Six o'clock is a good hour to rise in the summer, and 11 in tl.c The Cook's First Duty should lx> to prepare the \r. kg, and service of which will be found in a

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chapter, and then to busy herself with those numerous little tasks associated with arranging and providing for the day. This will bring her to the breakfast hour of eight, after which preparations must be made for the other meals of the household.

Daily Duties. — In those households where cook and housemaid only are kept, the general custom is that the cook shall look after the diningroom. Other household work, varying in different households, is also committed to her care. In establishments of this kind, the cook will, after having lighted her kitchen fire, brushed the range, and cleaned the hearth, proceed to prepare for breakfast. She will thoroughly rinse the kettle, and set it to boil. She may then perhaps have to go to the breakfast-room, and there make things ready for the breakfast. Attention must also be given to sweeping the hall, shaking the hall mats, which she must afterwards put back in their places. The cleaning of the kitchen, passages, and kitchen stairs must always be over before breakfast, so that it may not interfere with the other business of the day. Everything should be ready, and the whole house should wear a comfortable aspect. Nothing is more pleasing to the mistress of an establishment than to notice that, although she has not been present to see the work done, proper attention has been paid to such matters.

By the time that the cook has performed the duties mentioned above, and well swept, brushed, and dusted her kitchen, the breakfast bell will perhaps summon her to the parlour, to " bring in " breakfast. It is often the cook's department, in small establishments, to take in the breakfast, as the housemaid, by this time, has gone upstairs into the bedrooms, and has there applied herself to her various duties. But many ladies prefer the breakfast brought in by the housemaid, though it remain to be cleared and washed up by the cook. Whichever way this part of the work is managed, each servant should have her duties clearly laid down for her. The cook usually answers the bells and single knocks at the door in the early part of the morning, as the tradesmen, with whom it is her more special business to speak, call at these hours.

The Preparation of Dinner is the most important part of the cook's work, wherein she begins to feel the responsibility of her situation, as she has to see to the dressing and serving of those dishes, which her skill and ingenuity have prepared. Whilst these, however, are cooking, she must be busy with her pastry, soups, gravies, entrees, etc. Stock, or what the French call bouillon, being the basis of most made dishes, must be always at hand, in conjunction with sweet herbs and spices for seasoning. " A place for everything, and everything in its place," must be the rule, in order that time may not be wasted in looking for things when they are wanted, and that the whole business of cooking may move with the regularity and precision of a well-adjusted machine. All must go on simultaneously. The vegetables and

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THE COOK 39 sauces must be ready with the dishes they are to accompany, and the smallest oversight must be avoided in their preparation. It is a good plan when a dinner of many courses has to be prepared, to write out, and hang in a conspicuous place, two lists of the day's dishes, one of the order in which they must be served, with every accessory complete, that nothing may be forgotten, and one of the order in which each should be cooked, that nothing may be over or underdone. When the dinner hour has arrived it is the duty of the cook to dish up such dishes as may, without injury, stand for some time covered on the hot plate or in the hot closet; but such as are of a more important or delicate kind must be delayed until the order " to serve " is given. Then comes haste; but there must be no hurry — all must work with method. The cook takes charge of the fish, soups and poultry; and the kitchen-maid of the vegetables, sauces and gravies. These she puts into proper dishes, while the scullery-maid waits on and assists the cook. Every dish must be timed so as to prevent its getting cold, whilst care should be taken that no more time is lost between the courses than is absolutely necessary, for good serving, hot plates, gravy and sauces tin t <> get cold and greasy, arc vital factors in providing a good dinner. When the dinner has been served, the most important item in the daily work of the cook is at an end. She must, however, every night and morning, look to the contents of her larder, taking care to keep everything sweet and clean, so that no disagreeable smells may arise from the neglect of this precaution. These arc the principal duties of a cook in a big establishment. In many smaller households the cook engages to perform the whole work of the kitchen, and, in some places, a portion of the housework also. Duties of the Kitchen- Maid. — Whilst the cook is engaged with her morning duties, the kitchen- or scullery-maid is also occupied with hers. Her first duty, after the fire is lighted, is to sweep and clean the kitchen and the various offices belonging to it. This she does every morning, s cleaning the stone steps at the entrance of the house, the halls, the passages, and the stairs, if any, which lead to the kitchen. Her g< duties, besides these, are to wash and scour all these places twi with the table, shelves, and cupboards. She has also to attend to the nursery and servants' hall dinners while cooking, to prepare all iish, P >ultry, and vegetables, trim meat joints and cutlets, and do all such duties as may be assigned to her by the cook.

The duties of the kitchen- or scullery-maid, in short, are to assist the cook in everything in which she may require aid; to keep the scullery and all kitchen utensils clean. The duties of a kitchen-maid and scullery-maid arc almost identical, and the only reason that exists: tiiinin: the two names is that in large establishments, where two kilchcn!<«'j-t. it is useful to distinguish them as kitchen- and scullerymaid. the former doing the more iinjxDrtant, and the latter the coarser. work..t the kitchen.

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ADVICE TO COOKS AND KITCHEN-MAIDS Importance of Cooking. — A good cook has every reason to magnify the office she holds, for her work influences not only the comfort but also the health of the whole household, and mindful of this responsibility she will take care to study both the needs and tastes of those whose food she prepares. With invalids and people in delicate health this care is of the utmost importance.

Try and realize for yourself the importance of your post. Whether your employers are working hard in professions or business, or leading a comparatively leisured existence, whether they have poor appetites or large ones, good cooking of their food is absolutely necessary to their health.

Make a rule to send everything up to table really well cooked. Do not regard this as an impossibility, for it can be done. If you are told to prepare anything you are not certain about, have the courage to say so and ask your mistress's advice. How many dishes and dinners have been spoilt because cooks have been too proud to confess ignorance !

Accidents, of course, will happen (though but rarely with proper precautions ); fires will not always burn, nor ovens bake as they should; but if the joint, or whatever it may be, cannot be done to time, do not send it up raw, but ask for a little grace. If anything is really spoilt (as even with care it sometimes is) confess the fact, and do not send up a dish calculated to take away people's appetites. Cleanliness. — A dirty kitchen is a disgrace to all concerned. Good cookery cannot exist without absolute cleanliness. It takes no longer to keep a kitchen clean and orderly than untidy and dirty, for the time that is spent in keeping it in good order is saved when culinary operations are going on and everything is clean and in its place. Personal cleanliness is most necessary, particularly with regard to the hands. Dress. — When at your work, dress suitably; wear short dresses, well-fitting boots, and large aprons with bibs, of which every cook and kitchen-maid should have a good supply, and you will be comfortable as you never can be with long dresses, small aprons, and slipshod shoes, the latter being most trying in a warm kitchen, which may very likely have a stone floor. A maid-servant's working dress, with its neat and becoming cap, is far from ugly, and nothing is more suitable for them whilst at their work.

Neatness should be studied by all engaged in domestic work. It will repay those who practise it a thousand fold by constantly saving them needless work.

Clear as you go; do not allow a host of basins, spoons, plates, etc., to accumulate on the dresser or tables while you are preparing the dinner. By a little management and forethought much confusion may be saved in this way. It is as easy to put a thing in its place when it is done with as to continually remove it to find room for fresh

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THE COOK 41 requisites. For instance, after making a pudding, the flour tub, pasteboard, and rolling pin should be put away, and any basins, spoons, etc., taken to the scullery, neatly packed up near the sink, to be washed when the proper time arrives.

Economy. — !%^ver waste or throw away anything that can be turned to account. In warm weather any gravies or soups that have been left from the preceding day should boiled up and poured into clean pans. Full directions with regard to stock pots, digesters and other economies of the kitchen will be found in a later chapter. Go early every morning to your larder (which, like the kitchen, ought to be kept perfectly clean and neat), and while changing plates, looking to your bread pan (which should always be emptied and wiped out every morning), take notice if there is anything not likely to keep, and acquaint your mistress with the fact. It is better if there is a spare cupboard in the kitchen to keep any baked pastry there, and thus preserve its crispness.

Kitchen Supplies. — Do not let your stock of pepper, salt, spices, seasonings, herbs, etc., dwindle so low that there is danger of finding yourselt minus some very important ingredient, the lack of which may cause much confusion and annoyance. Think of all you require when your mistress sees you in the morning, that she may give out any necessary stores. If you live in the country have your vegetables gathered from the garden at an early hour, so that there is ample time to get rid of caterpillars, etc., which is an easy task if tl are allowed to soak in salt and water an hour or two.

Punctuality. — This is an indispensable quality in a cook. When there is a large dinner to prepare get all you can done the day before or early on the morning of the day. This will save a great deal of time and enable you, with good management, to send up your dinner in good time and style.

Cleansing of Cooking Utensils. — This is one of the cook's most important duties, and one that should never be neglected or put off from one day to another. When you have washed your saucepans, fish kettle, etc., stand them before the fire for a few minutes to get thoroughly dry inside before putting away. They should then be put in a dry place in order to escape rust. Put some water into them directly they are done with, if they have to stand some time before they are washed. Soups or gravies should never be allowed to stand all night in saucepans. Frying pans should be cleaned (if black inside) with a crust of bread, and washed with hot water and soda. It is a good plan to have a knife kept especially for peeling onions, but where this is not done the one used should be thoroughly cleaned. If the tin has worn off copper utensils, have it immediately replaced. Clean your coppers with turpentine and fine brick dust, or waste lemon skins and sand, rubbed on with flannel, and polish thorn with a leather and a little dry brick dust. Clean tins with soap and whiting, rubbing on with a soft rag or

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flannel, wiping them with a dry cloth, and lastly with a soft dry cloth or leather.

Washing of Dishes, Etc. — Do not be afraid of hot water in washing up dishes and dirty cooking utensils; as these are essentially greasy, lukewarm water cannot possibly have the effect of cleansing them thoroughly, and soda in the water is a great saving of time as is also a fresh supply of hot water.

After washing the plates and dishes wash out your dish tubs with a little soap, soda and water, and scrub them often; wash the dish cloth also and wring it out, and after wiping out the tubs stand them to dry. Pudding cloths and jelly bags should have immediate attention after being used; the former should be well washed, scalded, and hung up to dry. Let them be perfectly aired before being put away. No soda should be used in washing pudding cloths.

The Sink. — Do not throw anything but water down the sink, as the pipe is liable to get choked, a state of things which causes both expense and annoyance. At least three times a week pour a pailful of boiling soda water down every trap, for this prevents accumulation of fat, which more often than anything else stops up sink pipes. Try to realize how important this duty is; bad smells (often caused by a stoppage in the sink pipes) are most disagreeable and dangerous. Whilst a cook should be versed in all the details of her position, a mistress should never forget her own duty of seeing that the laws of economy, cleanliness and order are not neglected by her servants. The servants who reflect that some day they will probably need neatness, cleanliness and economy in their own homes, and for their own benefit, will feel grateful to the employer who insists on the practise of these virtues.

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CHAPTER IV The Arrangement, Economy and Furniture of the Kitchen, Kitchen and Cooking Appliances, Utensils and their Prices, Etc.

Writers on Domestic Economy, etc. — There are few of those who have turned their attention to domestic economy and architecture, who have written on these important subjects with better effect ll:, in Sir Benjamin Thompson, an American chemist and physicist, known as " Count Kumford," a title of nobility bestowed upon him by the Kin<^ o: Bavaria. He did not, however, go very deeply or fully into the dcsi in and construction of that part of the dwelhngwhich is chiefly devoted to cookery purposes, when he declared that " the construction of a kitchen must;il\vays depend so much on local circumstances that general rules can hardly be given resp< it," and again that "the principles on which this construction ought in all cases to be made are simple and easy to be understood." i principles resolved themselves, in his estimation, into adequate room and convenience for the cook.

Definition of the term Kitchen. — The Anglo-Saxon cictn, the Danish //, the German Kiiche, and tin. Cuisine are all r« to the Latin word coquere — to cook. The word kitchen probably from the end of the twelfth century, when the English language began to take concrete form. Chaucer, who died in 1400, makes use of the word in the " Canterbury Tales," the best example of the English language of that day. Shakespeare (1564-1616) speaks of the kitchen as a cook-room, clearly indicating its use in the sixteenth century; while Spenser (1552-1599) says the hostess... "led her guests anone Unto the kitchen room, ne spared for niceness none." Here is undoubtedly meant a room in which the meal was to be Requisites of a Good Kitchen.— That Count Kumford is perfectly right

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in his general, though somewhat broad premises, no one will be disposed to deny; nevertheless, the requisites of a good kitchen demand something more special than is here pointed out. It must be remembered that it is the great laboratory of every household, and that much of the family " weal or woe," as far as regards bodily health, depends upon the nature of the food prepared within its walls. In the construction and disposition of a kitchen, therefore, the following conditions should be secured.

(1) Convenience of distribution in its parts, with largeness of dimension.

(2) Excellence of light, height and ventilation.

(3) Easy of access, without passing through the house. (4) Walls and location so arranged that the odours of cookery cannot spread about the house.

(5) Plenty of fuel and water, which, with the scullery, pantry and storeroom, should be so near the kitchen as to offer the smallest possible trouble in reaching them.

In addition to these important points, the equipment of the kitchen demands careful consideration. Under this term is comprised its fittings, fixtures, furniture, and the utensils that should be found in the kitchen itself and the adjacent back kitchen, or scullery, for household and culinary uses. It will be convenient to consider the first three items as forming one division of our subject, and the last as another; the portability of the various articles comprehended in the second division forming the chief point of distinction between them and those which find a place in the first.

THE FITTINGS, FIXTURES AND FURNITURE OF THE KITCHEN The Fittings. — Under this title, let us glance briefly at the finish of the several surfaces within which the cubic space of the apartment itself is included: namely, the ceiling, the walls and the floor. There is more wear and tear and more injury from causes that tend to soil and disfigure in the kitchen than in any other part of the house, and care should therefore be taken to guard against the former as much as possible, and to render the effacement of the latter as easy and as speedy as possible.

(1) The Ceiling. — The most suitable ceiling is a plain, smoothlyplastered one, whether the kitchen is used solely for the purpose of cooking or, as is the case with the working-classes, as a combined kitchen and living room. It should be frequently whitewashed, for apart from the cleanliness, which is always desirable, the whiter the ceiling the greater will be its capacity to reflect light, and therefore to render the kitchen lighter.

(2) The Walls. — The walls of a kitchen used only for culinary purposes should be lined with white glazed tiles, or else have a high-tiled

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STOVES AND COOKING RANGE, i. Warming Stove. 2. Continuous burning Anthracite Coal Warming Stove. 3. Kitchen Range.

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COOKING RANGES, i. Portable Range with Oven, fixed in front of grate. 2. Portable Range with Oven and Boiler, fixed in recess.

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THE KITC1I1 \ 45 dado. Tiled walls are more easily kept clean than disk-in pi-red walls, which show every mark. When disteirq>er must be used, some light shade should be selected, but not necessarily bull, although that colour:ierally preferred because walls and woodwork should agree in colour, and buff is liked better than grey or green in a kitchen. Certainly buff has many good qualities to recommend it; it is clcan1" >king, and in consequence of its colour nearly approaching that of the wood it show signs of wear less quickly than other colours. I hose who work in kitchens of this description have the housekeeper's rot nn and the servants' hall in which to sit when their work is done. An apartment of different appearance is necessary in smaller middlehouseholds, where the maids have to spend their leisure time in the kitchen, and also in the homes of the working-classes where the kitchen is the living-room of the family. For these, the most appropriate and durable wall-coverings are varnished papers. Recent have introduced many new fashions in this direction, but nothing thai can be recommended in preference to the old-faslu'oncd oak papers with dull surfaces, specially prepared to receive the varnish being hung. The initial outlay is considerable, but a good, \vell-varirshed paper will last a very long time. Moreover, it always looks bright, is easily kept dean, and its smooth surface prevents any accumulation of dust, which is a great recommend. a ion from a health point of view. The woodwork should be painted, grained and varnished to match the paper. The sanitary, so-called washable papers are less expensive than varnished papers, but their t surfaces will not stand repeated applications of soap and water; they may, however, be wiped over with a damp sponge or damp cloth. (3) The Floor. — Floor-coverings are very rarely found in kitchens devoted entirely to cookery. Oil-cloth and linoleum are the only materials which can possibly be used, and they are generally um:ll1 V.

north < are cen In ti, hell lloor usually v \vhu !. ace; while or, coast tlif il. frequently laid with nd < >r yellow brit ks. \\V>odcn floors and concrete ll<><>rs may be seen in any part of the count iv. particularly in large eMablishmeir receive considerable attention. In middle-class households. ble to combine utility and comfort, good linoleum will be found the mo,; ntablc floor-t • or the kitchen. The patterned varieties aie pivl.-rable to those with plain sin: which quickly become dis!iy,iin-d by marks math- by the lurmtur<. Kitchen Fixtures. The fixtures are the immovable articles attached to the walls of the kitchen. I,<blv, but in; lolds when- the kilt hen is used Mnii.lv for its l,-:;!inr.. •

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of cookery, they usually comprise cupboards fitted with shelves in which the cook keeps her stores and utensils; strips of wood provided with hooks for meat-covers, etc.; electric light or gas-fittings; electric bell indicator or ordinary bell-fittings; dresser, ventilators and a sink. The dresser is nearly always a movable article, but the upper part of it has to be firmly secured to the wall by strong " holdfasts," and it consequently becomes a fixture by agreement between tenant and tenant or tenant and landlord. The dresser is usually some six or seven feet long, and the upper part consists of four or five narrow grooved shelves, upon which are disposed plates and dishes. The broad shelf of the dresser, usually termed THE TOP, affords ample space for the accommodation of the soup- tureen, sauce- tureens and vegetabledishes; while the drawers which run beneath form a convenient receptacle. The lower part forms an open recess from end to end, and has a shelf raised a few inches above the floor. This shelf is generally painted black, and forms a convenient place for large culinary utensils not in use.

A well-constructed sink is indispensable in a kitchen. Wooden sinks, lined with zinc, sinks made of stoneware, and sinks lined with well-cemented tiles are very serviceable, and easily kept clean. They should never be fixed in out-of-way corners, but should be easy of access for both cleaning and repairing. Whether the sink is in constant use or not, the pipe should be flushed at least once a day with hot soda and water. However some people prefer it excluded from the kitchen.

Every kitchen should be provided with some outlet for the hot foul air which rises to the top of the kitchen. The doors and windows may be used as a means of admitting fresh air, but an outlet at a higher level than the window is always necessary.

The kitchen range is always a fixture, but of so much importance that the subject will be treated separately.

What has been already said regarding kitchen fixtures applies equally to the kitchens in middle-class households, but not to the homes of the working-classes. Electric light and electric bell fittings are not often found there; properly-constructed sinks, efficient ventilation and convenient cupboards they have, or ought to have; and in many households a dresser is considered indispensable, but it is often a movable article of furniture, and will be described under that heading. Kitchen Furniture. — In making selection for the kitchen with distempered walls and bare floor, strength and durability are the chief points to be considered. The centre table is the most important article of furniture; it should be as large as the kitchen will conveniently allow; and the usual form is oblong, with a drawer at each end. In one drawer the cook keeps knives and spoons, and in the other small utensils and implements in constant use, such as dariol -moulds, pattypans, and cases containing cutters, larding-needles, etc. Modern tables

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THF KIT- ! 47:th a shell underneath, which runs from end to end at a nicnt height from the floor; and this arrangement to and fro between ti. in small kite:

tblc spac« a good substitute. The table should be made of good, well-seasoned deal or other white hard wood; the top must be smooth, without a •:.! Mibst. to legs perfectly plain and strong. No pai uld be painted. bccau;ng is a: 1 half- worn paint soon ibby api>carance. On the other 1; ubbed wood always looks clean and a; v bare. uncovered floor and pots md one 01 t\\.».ntial chairs comprise the whole furniture. The nv chopping- blocl;. « tc.. all occupy space, are not there to furnish the kitchThe: hoicc in d to th< loublc office of Shakespeare's " cook room " and Spenser's iien roomc, ne spared for niccnes «• square or obl-> r.-. \\ith turned legs in \ s to meet the retj II.

The term DRESSER was originally applied to a narrow side ^s dressed or \ use. In motleni phraseology rcsser is described as " a kind of kitchen sideboard with rows of •ee drawers m the upboard ersod, ich cupboard be replaced by three drawers, with one cupboard in the o In com he equipment of the kitchen, the number and kind of a: will IK- 1 the.ccs of those who occupy the house. Every one should n to have is not good. how pla uch better to buy necessary, and add articles of an ornamental character by The Kitchen Clock.— As the observance of time and adherence to;s done in the i can be regarded as being completely fur;ht-day dial.

p only once a wc< Knglish eight-day clock be bought for 355., but a good kitchen Thr l>:.>ck is has to be mid DC able to do this without lace.

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COOKING APPLIANCES.

The last, but by far the most important of the kitchen requisites that we are called upon to consider is the apparatus which is used for cooking, heating water, etc., usually known as the kitchen range or kitchener, names which originally had a distinctive import, but which have lost much of their primary significence, and are now applied without much discrimination to cooking appliances of every kind, whether the fuel used be coal or gas. We will, however, for the sake of clearness, use the terms kitchen range, kitchener, and gas range or stove, to indicate three widely marked varieties of cooking apparatus: (i) the kitchen range, being taken to imply a range, either open or close, that is fixed in its place with brickwork, etc., and is therefore immovable; (2) the kitchener, a range that is entirely independent of all its surroundings, one which stands, usually raised on four low legs, on the hearth in the recess otherwise occupied by the kitchen range, movable in itself when necessary, but virtually a fixture through its weight and size; and (3) the gas range or stove, like the kitchener really movable, though virtually a fixture for the same reasons, but differing from the kitchener, not only in form and in the kind of fuel used, but also in the fact that it need not, like the kitchener, of necessity be placed on the hearth, that the chimney may be utilized as a means of escape for smoke and the various products of combustion, but may be placed in any part of the kitchen convenient for the purpose.

The Kitchen Range. — Kitchen ranges may be distinguished as close and open, the chief point of difference between them being in the construction of the fire-grate or box in which the fuel used for heating purposes is burnt. In the open range the fire-grate is uncovered at the top, and forms a cavity, enclosed by the boiler and oven at the sides and back, by a grating of close bars at the bottom, and by parallel horizontal bars, about one inch square in section, placed from one and a half to two inches apart in front. The fire in the open range, generally speaking, can be made larger or smaller at pleasure by means of a movable check attached to a notched bar which is fixed at right angles to its surface on one side of it, and moved backwards and for. wards by means of a small cog-wheel, to a greater or less distance from the fixed side of the grate, as may be found necessary. In the close range the fire-chamber is inexpansive, closed in front cither wholly or partially by an iron door, and covered in at the top by an iron plate, movable, and generally in two parts, namely, a circular plate, dropping into and filling an opening in a square plate, the size of the top of the fire box. At the back there is a fire-brick moulded into shape. Close ranges are now chiefly used, but open ranges are to be met with in the country and in some towns in the North and in houses that have been built for some years, and in which the open range that was originally fixed in the kitchen, still remains,

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THE KITCHKN 49 Open Ranges. — The closed stove with its movable grate and many contrivances lor the disposal ami regulation of heat is an invention of r but the open fire with some primitive arrangement for cooking. or by the side of it, dates back to a remote age. In the p< M.I districts on the cast and west coasts of Hngland, cooking is still carried on under what appear to us almost impossible conditions, i.e. by means of a peat fire, burning on a stone hearth, with a wide chimney above it. In nearly all the houses the back kitchen or scullery is provided with a brick oven, in which bread and joints of meat may be baked; but by reason of the cost of extra fuel, time and trouble em the heating of this oven is a weekly, or at most, a bi-weekly occurrence, and on other days culinary operations are confined to the open kitchen fire. Vegetables and puddings are cooked in saucepai pots, as they are described in the local dialect, suspended over the tire; the means of suspension being a rigid bar of iron, fixed in the 1 wall of the chimney, and supplied with strong hooks of varying length, to allow the vessels to be raised or lowered to any height above the lire. All the culinary utensils are provided with half-circular handles i over the top like the handle of a k il running from side i of from back to front. 1 e also a large oval iron vessel, which they term a " hang-OVe: and use for baking and cakes. It has a depressed lid, like a braizin which is Idled with hot peat; and in tins • is applied from above and below. A similar ve^el. called a pot."

ided from a tripod of three bars of iron or hard wood. One only could be U.t the point where the rods we !. and oded a large cauldron used for the various purposes of tg and stewing. Cakes were baked and fish cooked in an pan, which was probably the of the North-count ry Idle " or " gi:

:e-histon.-arly Hrr ttg mainly on milk, fruit, herbs and other products of the Kind, the built >od on hearths formed of ro B*; and K supposed that the agreeable odour of the:

ammils tirst sugge- xxl; but until th< the Romans abolished Druidisin by force, the inh. M would not i commit wh.it would have Ix^ed a terrible sacnl the fact, but it is highlv pr.-bablr that roasting in front of the fire was one of t! i the fourteenth century. They turned bv han •!; but

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cage in which he was enclosed. The smoke- jacks, which are still found in the kitchens of some old country-houses, were next introduced; these were turned by means of the smoke from the fire. The brass bottle- jack, still in use, is a mechanical contrivance, which, when wound up, revolves, carrying with it the joint of meat or whatever may be attached. The open range is said to have only one strong point in its favour, namely, that it will roast in front of the fire; but this one point is sufficient to recommend it for all time to those who use it. Nothing will ever induce the North-country people to discard their open ranges; although many supplement them with a gas stove, to make easier the cook's work as regards frying and saucemaking. As for the open ranges in the cottages, it is questionable whether they burn more coal than a close stove of the same capacity, for the careful housewife has various contrivances for reducing the consumption of fuel when the fire is not needed for roasting or baking purposes. Moreover, an oven heated from below is better adapted to the requirements of people who always have home-made bread and cakes; and who prefer baked hot-pots and meat stewed in an earthenware pot in the oven, to the more liquid and less savoury stews made in a saucepan. Apart from the question of economy, the well- constructed close ranges found in good kitchens have many strong points to recommend them; but their various adjustments to facilitate the disposal and regulation of heat, and the movable fire-box by which the consumption of fuel is controlled, are characteristic of this particular class of stoves, and are not found in the small close stoves supplied to artisan dwellings. And when the production of heat and the consumption of fuel cannot be controlled, a close stove may prove quite as wasteful as an open grate, and less satisfactory in other respects.

Close Fire Ranges. — There is little doubt that " close fire " ranges were at first mostly used in Devonshire for the convenience of the hotplate over the top for scalding milk to obtain clotted cream, open ranges being then used in London and other parts of the United Kingdom. Gradually the use of the open range was abandoned for the Leamington range, which at one time may be said to have had it all its own way; but now there are a variety of ranges, each claiming some special merit, and rendering it a matter of considerable difficulty to pick and choose between them. It may be said, however, that economy of fuel and cleanliness are the chief features of close ranges of all kinds, combined with efficiency of action, provided that the flues themselves, through which the smoke and soot pass off into the chimney, leaving considerable deposits in the passage, are kept perfectly clean.

Advantages claimed for Close Fire Ranges. — (i) Many saucepans and vessels may be kept boiling at one time, and at the proper point oi temperature.

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Till- K!'H Ml N 51 (2) Saucepans and other vessels last double the turn \\hen u^cd on of a closed st< (3) Saucepans and other vessels may be kept as cl<;de as is consequently an immense saving of labour. (4) The fact of the entire range being covered by a hot-plate and the >t being exposed lessens the probability of having food smoked. (5) The hot-plate is well adapted for an ironing stove when not >r cookery purposes.

(6) Close ranges are usually provid- -me simple contir m to be converted into slow » he fire may be kept burning all mable advantage when it r> necessary to:i the boiler hot.

(7) The best types may be easily con ito an open range (8) The heat is easily regulated, and when provided with an adjustable fire-box may be directed by a simple movement to the up. part of the oven as requr How to clean a Close Range. The oven door should be closed to out tl n door and window closed to prevent the ! the ashes and en All th nobs on a range not attached • be the tlues, and eat I doors must be o; AT A TIME, and the soot swept down with a brush const; the purpo a long flexible handle and a head like a bottle-brush.:;hest flue-door is located in the breast of th- v. and the mmence there. Usually a c<> !e amount 1 lodged a t be swept >ved from the lowest soot door. A ring away •ust be swept out and thoroughly washed soda, to he grease; and when necessary, the front !y dry before applying the;nore brilliant polish if i 1 with ad of water. The steel mouldings should be cleaned with; nd emery powder, or when badly stained, with vii Construction of a Good Stove. — Both cooking-ranges and ccx are constructed of steel, malleable iron, wrought-iron and castOf these, the cast-iron stoves are the least expensive; but i be recommended, because they are liable to crack; they usually i- to imjx^rfect construction, frequently sm«-k \YelI-tMnxtructed stoves made of malleable are usuallv mr-ti-ht. uivc more evenly. and arc altogether better in many respects. Good do not allow the gases and fumes of the coal, or the soot

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to invade the oven; and the fire-box and oven are protected from undue draughts which would affect the consumption of fuel or the temperature of the oven. No oven can satisfactorily roast and bake unless provided with a reversing damper by which the heat may be directed to the top or bottom of the oven as required. One or two of the best types have an adjustable fire-box, which may be lowered when an open fire is needed for roasting, or a good bottom heat for baking; or raised when a top heat is desired in the oven, or the hotplate only required for boiling and frying purposes. They have also well-ventilated ovens, whereby the proper flavour of the materials cooked is retained; and fire-boxes fitted with vertical bars placed rather close together, but sufficiently narrow in section to allow anything to be properly cooked in front of the fire. There are many reliable firms who construct ranges on these principles; and the annexed list of prices is an average of those of three of the best makers. Ranges of corresponding size and quality of the respective firms are fairly uniform in price; but there is a wide difference in the cost of ranges of corresponding size made by individual firms, due chiefly to the expensive tiling and elaborate finish of the various details of some of the ranges, which improve their appearance but add nothing to their value in other respects. A good plain range, easily convertible into a close or open fire, fitted with an adjustable fire-box, plate rack, ventilating doors, reversing damper, patent cinder sifter, bright steel mouldings and bright steel bracket-shelves under the oven may be had at the following prices: — WIDE.

HIGH.

WITH ONE OVEN. WITH TWO OVENS.

£lO 10 0 £12 o o 4 ft.

13 o o 13 10 o I ^ O O 5 ft.

15 o o 16 10 o 5 ft17 10 o 19 o o The Kitchener. — The term " range " has been used to distinguish the stove fixed in its place by brickwork from the stove or kitchener which may stand in any part of the room altogether independent of its surroundings except the connecting tube that carries away the products of combustion. This tube has a diameter of some eight or ten inches; and where there is no chimney it must be carried to the outer wall and up the side of the house to a suitable level, otherwise there is a strong down-draught. When used in England, the stme is usually placed in or near the recess provided for a range, and the iron tube passes into the chimney. This arrangement is to be recommended, for the tube frequently becomes red -hot, and has often been a source

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COOKING, ETC. BY ELECTRIC HEAT, Double Hot Plate, Frying Pan, Small Range, Radiator (Stove), Stewpan, Radiator (Stove), Grill.

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of great danger in the Canadian settlements where such stoves are largely used. The small portable stoves are made in different sizes; the smallest is 21 inches long, two-thirds of its length being appropriated by an oven, and the remaining space by the fire-grate. The cost of such a stove is about 305. or 355.

The Canadian Kitchener represents a more useful type of portable stove. The medium size costs from £4 los. to £$ los. The fire-box may be closed or opened as desired; and its great depth, combined with the narrow bars, greatly facilitates the process of roasting. These stoves are frequently used in rooms where temporary cooking accommodation is required; and when properly constructed and provided with a good draught they may be pronounced satisfactory in many respects. The central ranges used in large kitchens are based on an altogether different principle. The flames from the burning coke or coal travel over the roof and down the sides of the oven into an underground flue, which runs to an outer wall, thence up the side of the building. COOKING BY GAS, OIL, AND ELECTRICITY Gas Stoves.— From the consideration of ranges in which cooki performed by the combustion of solid fuel, it is necessary to turn to those in which gas is the fuel employed. Cooking by gas has been much on the increase in late years, the gas companies in various localities lending all the aid in their power to further it by supplying their customers with gas stoves, or ranges, at a low annual rental. Cooking by Gas has much to recommend it. Gas kitcheners are compact, as no space has to be provided for furnace or ash-pit, are cleanly, causing no dust or smoke, and consequently can be kept in perfect order with little trouble. And they are easily managed even bv inexperi. -mod girls. The mere turning on of one or more taps ted match to the burner or hi;.

tchener in workin without loss of time. Thus there is •my, as hid is only consumed when heat is actually reoi More- • rrature can be speedily produced.1 rol. an.

vfilne to cook:nul hou e\vitr. As gas burners are provided for l>«. hot-plat.- ami x"IK ont r-.lleil. it is possible to prepare a large dinner on a gas kitchener with comfort, security and economy. ( >i late \ \ strides have been made in the d and construction of gas kitcheners, which now. with their enamelled OVenS, and tops, wrought Sted -nilim; bars, atmosplu-ric burners and oth.-r improvements. ha\e reached a Iii-h. m. \Vith dne< are, it is impossible to spoil a dinner on a:. Actual experiment has proved that meat and other food hi, and retains more >f its flavour when rooki-d l>v -as, than if cooked by «>al. It shown that me.it COoked in a «-al he.ited oven loses about

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35 per cent, of its weight, in a gas oven only 25 per cent. This immense" saving is no doubt due to the more evenly distributed and less fierce temperature.

It is essential that gas kitcheners should be kept scrupulously clean. The enamelled parts inside and out should be rubbed down when cold with a sponge or cloth dipped in warm water, and then wiped dry. The gas burners should be kept free from dust. Any grease on the kitchener should be carefully removed. If these precautions are taken and the burners properly lighted, aJl disagreeable odours will be avoided, and certainty of results ensured.

Advantages of Cooking by Gas. — There are many features to recommend cooking by gas, chief among which are — (1) Cleanliness, and the readiness by which the fire can be lighted and extinguished, facilities which are conducive to economy, because the fire need only be maintained when it is required for cooking. (2) It is economical in another respect, because meat cooked by gas has been found to lose less weight than when cooked in an oven heated by coal.

(3) The heat can be readily and instantly regulated, being concentrated precisely where required by means of the different burners, each of which is independent of the other.

(4) Gas stoves are especially useful in summer and in small households, where, during the greater part of the day, no fire is needed. (5) Saucepans and other vessels may be kept as clean outside as inside.

(6) Cooking by gas is less heating, and consequently less tiring tc the person employed, than cooking by a coal-range. Construction of Gas Stoves. — The oven of a well- constructed gas stove is made either entirely of cellular cast iron and jacketed all over with slag wool, or it is made with a double casing with an intermediate hotair jacket. This is necessary to prevent heat being conducted from the oven to the surrounding air. The gas-burners are not always inside the oven; when they are, the oven should have no bottom, or if it has, there must be some provision made for admitting atmospheric air to mingle with the gas. The mixture of air and gas produc2S a bluish light; when the light is yellow (while using the atmospheric burners) the stove is wrongly-constructed in this respect. or it has not been lit in a proper manner. The inside of the oven and the top of the stove should be lined with porcelain enamel, in order that it may be easily kept clean. The oven should be provided with some efficient means of ventilation, whereby the vitiated air may be carried away, and the mixed flavour which sometimes pervades different materials cooked in the same oven may be obviated. The best stoves arc provided with a patent reversible grill which, when deflected downwards, may be used for grilling meat or toasting bn-a/JL The rings on the top of the

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stove should be provided with ATMOSPHERIC burners, which produce a blue flame, a mixture of gas and air, of higher heating power consumption of less gas) than the white flame produced by the LUMINOUS burners.

Gas Fires. — The great advantages of gas over coal fires consists in the complete absence of ashes and dirt; in the fact that a bright hot fire can be obtained at any moment, night or day; that the heat can be i ted at will, or the fire extinguished when not required; in dispensing with the necessity of carrying coal into, and ashes and refuse out of, the room; in the freedom of the atmosphere from dust, and the consequent saving in the matter of furniture dusting, curtain washing, etc. Against this must be reckoned the greater cost of gas fires as compared with coal for constant use; but, notwithstanding this, there are few persons who have once used a good gas fire that could be persuaded to return to the old method of heating. For bedrooms, and occasional using, a gas fire is always economical, as compared with coal; in fact, the expense and great trouble of coal fires for bedrooms render their use sometimes prohibitory, whereas a good hot gas fire can be obtained for half an hour, night and morning, at a cost of 6d. per week or less. In the sick-room a gas fire is simply invaluable; its steadiness, night and day, and the perfect control over the warmth of the room arc far above the possibilities of any coal fire. In sudden vncies the instant command of a good fire in the ni^ht is sometimes a matter of life or death. In the bronchial affections common in this country warmed air is frequently of the utmost importance, and this can be obtained in moderate sized rooms by a gas stove properly constructed, with a regularity and economy which cannot be approached by coal or coke. Where the family consists of only two or three persons, small but powerful open gas fires, with an oven over the fire to utilize the waste heat, will be found of the greatest value and economy, as they do away entirely with the dirt and labour of coal fires, and yet fill all the purposes of a small kitchen range. These irv now to be procured from any gas Company, hired from them, or obtained by the hire purchase system.

Objections to Gas. — The objections to the use of gas as a fuel exist only where the wrong appliances are selected, or when no trouble is taken to learn their proper use. One of the most common causes of failure with gas fires is that they are purchased for use cither where there is no flue or whore the chimney has a down draught; in such cases as these the faults which cause the failure of a coal lire will be equally unfavourable to a gas fire. Burners used for gas cookers must be kept clear and in good condition; if choked with dirt and grease, they will be as unsatisfactory as burners used for lighting under the same conditions. and kettles must be kept clean outside, or they make an un:iit smell, and ovens must \w kept clean inside for the same '-•-o for the sake of sweet flavours in the food.

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Oil Stoves. — A well-constructed, cleanly kept and well-managed oil stove will cook food as well as any other stove of corresponding capacity; and with proper care there should be neither smoke nor odour from the flame. These stoves are sometimes a great convenience in places not within reach of gas. No flue is required for their use; and being small they can be easily conveyed from place to place. Cooking on an oil stove may be done 20 per cent, cheaper than by any other means; but unless the wicks are kept well-trimmed and the stoves properly managed, they emit a disagreeable smell and smoke. In a properly constructed stove there is not much danger from explosion, unless a light is, through carelessness, brought in contact with the oil. Cooking by Electricity is now quite practicable, though for the present decidedly expensive. The heat is obtained from the ordinary electric lighting mains, the current being made to pass through wires coiled on iron or steel plates, and embedded in enamel, having the same ratio of expansion and retraction as the metal. In this way the plates of ovens, sides of boilers, hot-plates and corrugated grills can be heated. Stewpaus and kettles are heated separately, these having double bottoms with the wires coiled between, *ind the current conveyed by flexible silk covered wires connected with a special fitting at the end of the handles. There is practically no loss of heat, as the electrical connexion is only made when cooking is in actual progress. The system also of course ensures freedom from dust and dirt, or undue radiatior in the kitchen. It may be mentioned that the King's yacht (constructed for her late Majesty, Queen Victoria) is fitted up with a complete electric* kitchen outfit, including soup and coffee boilers, hotplates, ovens, grills and hot closets. As some municipalities are now supplying the electric current in the daytime at as low a rate as 2d. per Board of Trade unit, it is probable that cooking by electricity is destined to undergo a rapid development.

CULINARY UTENSILS.

Stewpans and Saucepans. — Stewpans and saucepans are usually, though not necessarily, circular in form, provided with a long handle, a lid or cover, and sometimes, in the smaller kinds, with a lip for the better and easier transference of its contents to another vessel. The term saucepan is applied indiscriminately to all kinds of saucepans and Stewpans; but the name stewpan is generally used to denote the shallower pans with straight sides and flat long-handled covers; it should never be applied to an iron saucepan. Stewpans arc made in copper; wrought steel; tin, enamelled inside and out; and iron. Saucepans arc made in copper; brass; iron, tinned inside; iron, enamelled inside; block tin; tin, enamelled inside and outside. Stewpans generally have straight sides; but saucepans vary in

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shape, as shown in the illustrations, as follows: — Their capacity and prices range DESCRIPTION. SIZE, In. in diutr.

CAPA« ITY.

PRICE.

Copper Stewpans and Covers, Best quality. Second 6s.

i» Second "

8s. yl.

» Second,, 75. gd.

155. 3d.

t> tf Second,,.. 1 JS. 1 K/. „ •.

235. 9</.

ft Secmid,, M. i a •id Wrought Steel Stewpans with Tin I ' qlly. 35. 3<*.

ti M,, i> • tt,, «4 M ti i _• M >( H Cast-Iron with r.l< >ck-Tin Covers, r.est quality A f> f f t> 15. jf/.

M,,,t,, >( » M,, »,,,, » M "

The prices and capacity of saucepans ard other articles are taken lioin the illustrated catalogues and price lists of tli 'inns and stores in London. Enamelled saucepans are not often used in kitchens where much cooking is done. They are inexpensive but not durable; they answer very well for boiling milk, but anything thickened with flour, if allowed to stand, quit kly burns at the bottom. The wroiiL;ht-s' pans arc more expensive but decidedly i I in the end. They ill the advantages of cupper \\ithuut.'n\ of its drawbacks; they.in- easily kept clean, anything tncked m them !. and thickened sauces may be simmered in them for hours without injury, if occasionally stirred. The insidcs of the saucepans require re-tinning occasionally; but when the tin oft they are as harmless as before, bcinjj made of steel. Cupper MIIS al^. air very durable; in last a lifetime, and are

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an ornament to the kitchen when kept beautifully clean, as they should be; but this entails considerable labour, a point to be considered where few servants are kept. Copper utensils should be frequently examined and re-tinned as soon as the linings begin to show signs of wear. One of the objections to the use of copper for culinary purposes is its liability to become coated with verdigris, or copper-rust, under careless or unskilful hands — verdigris being a poison imparting its deadly properties to any food cooked in a vessel that is tainted with it.

Boiler or Boiling Pot. — In large families this utensil comes into almost daily requisition. It is used for boiling large joints, hams, puddings, etc., and is usually made of iron. Boilers may be had in cast iron, tinned inside, to hold from 3 gallons to 7 gallons, at from 4.$. 9d. to i os., according to size; in wrought iron, with bright cover, to hold from 4 gallons to 12 gallons, from 128. to 26s.

The Digester. — This utensil is a kind of stock-pot, made of iron, having a lid which fits closely into a groove at the top of it. No steam escapes, therefore, by the lid; and it is only through the valve at the top of the cover that the superfluous steam passes off. It is a very valuable utensil, inasmuch as by using it a larger quantity of wholesome and nourishing food may be obtained at much cheaper rates than is possible without it, and when bones are boiled in it its action will extract every nutritive particle from them, leaving nothing but the inorganic part of the bones. This utensil, when in use, should not be placed over a fierce fire, as that would injure the quality of the preparation; for whatever is cooked must be done by a slow and gradual process, the liquid being just kept at the simmering point. These digesters are made in all sizes, and may be obtained to hold from 4 quarts to 16 quarts. The prices of digesters vary according to capacity, namely, to hold 4 quarts, 35. 9d.; 6 quarts, 55.; 8 quarts, 6s.; 10 quarts, 73.; 12 quarts, 8s.; and 16 quarts, IDS. 6d. The Stock-pot. — This article is used in the preparation of stock, which forms the foundation of soups, gravies, etc. Stock-pots are made in copper, wrought steel or iron. Copper stock-pots to hold 8 quarts, fitted with tap and strainer, are supplied in a good quality for about 425. 6d. The price of a stock-pot, of corresponding capacity, in wrought steel would be 2os. 9d. with tap and strainer, and 1 2S. 3d. without these conveniences. They may also be obtained in wrought iron and earthenware, the latter being specially suited to small households, because a smaller amount of heat is required to keep the contents at simmering point and the stock- pot need not be emptied every day. The tap and strainer add about 30 per cent, to the cost of a stock-pot, but the advantage of being able to draw off the stock from the bottom, leaving the fat and the bones, vegetables and other solids behind, is well worth the additional outlay.

The Braising Pan. — This vessel is employed in a culinary process,

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THE KITCHEX 59 termed braising or braizing. In shape it may be cither round or oval, with a depressed lid in which hot charcoal is placed, whereby the meat is cooked between two slow fires. This method is said to develop more fully the flavours of materials cooked; also to decrease the loss of strength and flavour by evaporation; it is largely practised in France. In England the braising-pan is frequently placed in the oven instead of under charcoal, the latter article as a fuel being but seldom used. The Double or Milk Saucepan. This is, on a small scale, what the BAINMARIE is on a larger scale. The smaller saucepan fitting into the larger one is either lined with enamel or made of earthenware. The double saucepan is especially useful for making porridge and gruel, and boiling custards and milk. It may also be usefully employed in cooking tapioca, sago, semolina and other farinaceous substances, when the oven is being used for other purposes, and is too hot for the long, gentle process of cooking they require. When an egg is added to any of these preparations, it should be mixed in just before the pudding is put into the oven to brown. The double saucepan is supplied in four sizes, known as Nos. i, 2, 3, 4, and sold respectively at 33. 3d., 33. Qd., 43. 9d. and 6s. 6d. The lower saucepan is made of block tin, and when in use should be half filled with water, which must be replaced as it boils away, otherwise the upper saucepan is liable to crack. Steamers. — These articles consist of a cylinder of tin, tinned iron or copper, made to fit into the top of a saucepan and to carry the saucepan cover as its lid. The lower or saucepan portion varies in capacity from 6 to 14 pints, and the entire appliance is sold from 2S. 6d. to 43. 3d., according to size. Larger kinds, containing from 6 to 12 quarts, may also be obtained. Steamers are chiefly used in cooking potatoes and puddings, especially those containing meat or fruit. When the potatoes are sufficiently cooked, the water in the saucepan should be poured off and the steamer replaced. The heat from the saucepan below quickly causes the moisture remaining in the potatoes and the steamer itself to evaporate, thus converting the latter into a DRY HOT CLOSET, in which the cooking of the potatoes is completed. Even when boiled, potatoes are more floury when the water is drained off, and the cooking completed this way. It is possible to place one steamer above another, and, indeed, some steam-cookery vessels are constructed to carry four or six steamers, a contrivance being provided to prevent steam from one department invading another.

The Turbot Kettle and Salmon Kettle. — This variety of fish-kettle is arranged to suit the shape of the fish from which it takes its name. It is shallow, very broad, and is fitted inside with a drainer similar to that in other fish-kettles. Turbot-kettles are usually supplied in three sizes known as small, middle and large. These sizes, in block-tin, strong, arc supplied at us.. MS. and iSs. od. The salmon kettle is a long, narrow utensil, like the fish-kcttlc, but the cover has a handle at

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each end instead of one only in the middle. They are made in copper, with draining plates, in sizes from 20 inches to 30 inches in length The Fish Pan, or Kettle. — This utensil is fitted with a drainer inside, which is lifted when the fish is sufficiently cooked. The drainer is then laid across the kettle, and the fish lifted on to the dish with the fish-slice — a perforated plate attached to a long handle, sold at is., is. 3d. and is. 6d., according to size. Fish kettles are longer than they are wide, and are made either with handles at the side, or with a swing handle, like that of a pail. The former is the more convenient shape, on account of the facility which the two handles at the ends afford for putting the kettle on the range or taking it off. Prices range from 35. 6d. to 95. for kettles in strong block- tin plate, and from 153. to 425. for iron kettles. Copper fish kettles, from 16 inches to 22 inches, are supplied at prices ranging from 453. to 853. The mackerel-kettle, or saucepan, which will serve as a fish-kettle for all long fish, such as whiting, haddock, etc., and for soles and small plaice, is an elongated saucepan, with cover, and having a long handle on one side and an iron looped handle opposite to it on the other side. It is made in three sizes, sold respectively at 33., 45. and 53.

Fish Fryer and Drainer. — This is an admirable contrivance for frying fish, by using which an experienced cook is much more likely to insure success and send a dish of fried fish properly to table. It is in shape not unlike a preserving-pan fitted with a closely-made wire drainer; and in this the fish is placed and lowered into the heated fat. As in frying fish it is necessary to have a large amount of fat, the depth of this kettle gives it a considerable superiority over the ordinary frying-pan. There is, besides, very little danger of the fish breaking, for being lifted up on the drainer when done, it is easily dished. Cooked in this manner the fish does not require turning, as the fat quite covers it, and of course browns it on both sides at once. The greasy moisture, too, is more effectually got rid of. Fat-pans with drainers may be obtained from a good ironmonger at the following prices: — Extra Strong Copper, with Drainer: — i4-in. i5-in. i6-in. ij-in. 18 in.

l\ 16 o £200 £2 5 o ^280 £2 14 o Strong Wrought Steel: — i2-in. ij-in. 14-in. i5-in. i6-in. i7-in. i8-in.

us. us. 6d. 135. 153. i6s. 6d. i8s. 6d. £i o o Wire Vegetable Strainer.— This useful article consists of a wire frame, round which thinner wire is coiled and fastened. It is made to fit inside a stewpan or saucepan, and thus forms a convenient utensil in which to boil vegetables and to lift them at once out of the water; or

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Till- KITCHEN 61 for frying whitebait, or parsley or sliced vegetables for soups, etc. in sizes from 6 inches to 10 inches in diameter, and sold at prices from 28. ^d. to;-., according to size. The Frying-pan. — This article is so well known that it is only necessary to mentio: sizes and prices. They may be had either round.1 in form, with shelving sides; the round pans being made in ng from -j\ inches to 9 inches at from (;(!. to is. 2d. The oval pans, which arc more commonly use made in sizes from \\\ inches to 15 inches in length, and are supplied from is. to 2S.

The Omelet Pan.— This pan is a variety of the frying-pan, and generally made circular in form, but si. than the frying-pan, f. nee in turning pancakes, omelets, etc. These pans are m bright polished wrought iron,:n one piece, from to i«> in diameter, and sold from 55. to 8s. 3d. Bowl omcl< made 8 i: 1 10 inches m di.i•Id at 75., 8s. and <;s. each. Co; with bui: iron handles, range from 6J inches to 16 inches in din M are sold t: ! of the - bh rounded or bowl bottoms for souffles, arc made 8 inches, 8} inches and 9 i in d; 6d., los. 6d. and i is. 6d. each.

The Fricandeau or Cutlet Pan. I: A ith upi i. fr.'in 7 •« i.} in.

nhng t<> in the '.

; -lite pan I.

•n the om<.tndle nv:

ranging from 7 inches to 14. and sold at \ \\\ 6s. 6d. to 203. A /es, 8 inches, 9 inches and 10 inches in d: extra •n-l fur: fricandeau-pan, are sold at '5s. and;>"•>.

Bain-Marie Pan and Stewpans, etc. — The bain-marie is not used so murh:o be found n In sei Urge dinner:.ist useful ami •A ith lx.il r and range or kitchener. The sau« containing rs, etc., stand in the water, and • intents at a proper heat without any risk of burning or loss of flavour. If the hour of dinner is uncertain in any no means of preserving the warmth and flavour of the ! is so sure and harmless as the cm] 09 repot, and from 4 to to 5j

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inches. A complete set of 7 strong, well-made tin stewpans, i glazepot and i soup-pot, in a bain-marie pan of wrought steel, may be obtained for £2. Or, the same number of utensils in wrought steel, fitted in a bain-marie pan, 16 x 12^ inches, would coet ^3 133.; and in the best quality of copper £6. Larger sizes may be bought at a corresponding increase in price.

Warren's Cooking Pot is a vessel in three divisions, in which meat and vegetables may be cooked at the same time, but in separate compartments. The peculiarity of the process consists in cooking without the viands coming in contact with water or steam; the meat, kept from water entirely, is cooked in an inner cylinder, the outer one containing the water, being kept at boiling point. The food thus prepared is cooked in its own vapour, and none of its nutritious properties are wasted. These utensils are also convenient where cooking space is limited, and economical when cooking by gas, because one ring of burners would serve instead of two or three. The price of the round saucepan is from 75. 9d. to 203., and the smaller size in the oval cooking pot costs 2 is.

The Bottle-jack. — The action of this familiar piece of kitchen furniture, so called from its resemblance to an ordinary glass bottle, is so well known that very little explanation is needed. When the joint is hooked on, the jack requires winding up, an operation which must be repeated once or twice during the time the meat is cooking. A bottle- jack complete, capable of carrying a joint of 20 Ibs., may be had for 6s. gd. This bottle- jack is large enough for ordinary family use; but larger sizes, to carry from 25 to 70 Ibs. may be had from 8s. 6d. to 2os. In cases of necessity it may be dispensed with, and a suspender formed of a skein of worsted, knotted here and there throughout its length, used instead.

Meat Screen. — When the meat is roasting a meat-screen should be placed in front of the fire, to concentrate and reflect the radiated heat as much as possible. It is made of tin, 3 feet in width, and costs 128. 9d. to 1 55. 3d. Round screens known as bottle- jack screens, having bands at the top, from which the bottle-jack is suspended, and a drippingpan in the bottom, are sold in three sizes, varying in price, according to stoutness of make, as follows: No. i, from 123. 6d. to 26s.; No. 2, from 155. 9d. to 253.; and No. 3, from 193. 6d. to 303. The Dripping-pan. — This is a receptacle for the droppings of fat and gravy from the roast meat. In some cases it forms an integral part of the meat screen, but when it is separate from it, it is supported on an iron stand. The pan is arranged with a well in the centre, covered with a lid, and round this well is a series of small holes, which allow the dripping to pass into the well free from cinders or ashes. When the meat is basted, the lid of the well is lifted up. The bastingladle used to apply the dripping to the meat is half covered over at the top with a piece of metal perforated with small holes, so that

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should a small piece of cinder get into the ladle it will lodge there and not fall on the meat. Dripping-pans of block tin, with wells, are made in four sizes, ranging in price from 25. to 35. 6d. Wrought iron stands for these dripping-pans cost from 35. to 45., and basting ladles from is. to 2s. Extra strong wrought iron drippingpans with wells, and mounted on wrought iron legs, range in size from 2 feet 6 inches to 4 feet in length, and cost from 335. to 905., according to size. Strong wrought iron basting ladles to accompany these appliances are made in three sizes, namely, 4, 4^ and 5 inches in diameter, costing 73. 6d. 8s. 6d. and los. 6d. respectively. Double Baking-pan and Stand. — Closely akin to the dripping-pan used in open-fire roasting is the double baking-pan and stand used in ranges and kitcheners for baking meat, poultry, etc. These are usually supplied with ranges and kitcheners when first purchased; but sometimes it is necessary to renew them. The lower pan contains water which ma v be added through the opening in the lower right-hand corner, nuule by a depression in the inner pan; the JK -i -fWated shield or hood, covering th'.' opposite- corner being used for pouring off the dripping. These -ire supplied in oblong form, from 13 inches to 18 inches in length, at prices ranging from 35. Qd. to 73. 6d.; or square, from u inches 6 inches, from 45. to 75. It may be added that single pans arc supplied in the above sizes, oblong, from is. 2d. to 2S.; and square, from is. 4d. to 2s.

The Gridiron. — This utensil, which in its ordinary form consists of a frame supported on four short legs, one at each corner, and with round bars from front to back, and a handle at the back of the frame, is used for broiling purposes of all kinds. The round bar gridiron is made with from 8 to 12 bars, according to size, and is sold at from lod. to is. 3d.

Hanging Gridiron. — The hanging gridiron consists of a double frame, similar in form to the bed or platform of the ordinary gridiron. Below the frames is a small trough or pan, in which the dripping or gravy running from the meat is taught, and above, the centre bars in each frame project upwards, forming the means of keeping the frames together when the meat is placed between them, by a wire ring, square in form, that is slipped over them. The hanging gridiron is suspended before the fire, on bars fastened to hooks, which slip over the top bar of the range. Hooks are attached to the inner frame to take slices of bacon, chops, steaks, etc., when placed between the frames, and to keej) them in a proper position. These gridirons are made of wrought iron with from 8 to 12 bars, and are sold at 35. 6d. and 55. each, accordlo size.

American Grip Broiler and Toaster. — This grilling utensil is most useful and desirable for broiling steaks, chops, fish, etc. It is made of polished with perforation in both plates, having their edges turned inwards. Thus it may be turned over on the lire without the escape and

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consequent loss of any of the fat or gravy coming from the meat, etc., the basting process being self-acting, and the flavour of the meat, etc., being fully retained. The perforations being turned inwards, grip the meat or fish firmly, and prevent any motion from one part of the pan to another. By frequent turning the gravy, etc., is distributed over the upper surface of the meat or fish, while the under side is being acted on by the heat, and thus uniform tenderness and juiciness of the food that is being cooked is insured. It is suitable for use in the openings on the top of a cooking range or kitchener, or on the hotplate of a close fire range or over the open fire, and it may be used as a bread toaster on the hot-plate or in front of the fire. It is made in two sizes, namely, 9 inches in diameter, sold at 2s., and 10 inches, at 2S. 6d.

Dutch Oven. — The Dutch oven, or bacon broiler or toaster, is made in different shapes, but the principle and purpose of each is precisely the same, and consists of a flat bottom with triangular sides rising from it at each end. The bottom is fitted with a shallow drippingpan, over which, with the ends inserted near the top of each triangular sidepiece, is a bar with hooks arranged at regular intervals. On the external surface of each side is a handle, by which the utensil may be placed on or removed from the plate hanger, which consists of a sliding plate on two bars, -terminating in hooks in front, to hang on the bars of the range. Attached to the sides of the Dutch oven at the very apex of each, is a cover, or flap, which, in consequence of being fixed on a swivel, may be used on either side. The advantage of this reversible cover is that by turning the utensil round on the plate hanger and reversing the flap, each side of the meat or bacon that is being cooked can be presented to the fire quickly, without turning it on the hooks. Prices vary according to size; one 10 inches long, and fitted with four or five hooks, would cost 2s. 6d.; 12 inches, 2s. 9d.; 14 inches, 33. 6d.

Toast Grid. — The toast grid for toasting bread is a utensil used for toasting bread on the hot-plate of a range; but if the front of an openfire range be large enough, and the heat sufficient, it may be used there with equal convenience and facility. It consists of two frames covered with wire, between which the bread is placed; the frames are supplied with wire handles, which can be held together with a sliding ring. These grids are sold at is. 3d. and is. Qd.

UTENSILS AUXILIARY TO COOKING.

Auxiliary Utensils. — To describe everything that it is possible to introduce into the kitchen for use therein is neither practicable nor desirable. From the thousand and one articles, however, that might be enumerated, some few may be selected that hold a prominent place either from the frequency with which they are brought into use, or from the obvious necessity that exists for having them at hand when required.

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KITCHEN UTENSILS.

i. Bottle K.Mstiim I. irk. j. Mincing Knife, or Suet Chopper. 3. Mrat Chopper. 4. Frvin- Pan-*. Meat Cover. <•. Pestle and Mortar. 7- Mincing or Sausage M ichiiu-. with Fable Clamp. S. I)««ubh' Uakia- I'.ui. with M-.it Stand. 9. Drip Pan. with Iia>tin.; L ulle. 10. Bottle Jack Roast i

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KITCHEN UTENSILS.

i. Household Weighing Machine. 2. Oval Boiling Pot. 3. Turbot Kettle. 4. Copper Preserving Pan. 5. Fish Kettle. 6. Bain Marie Pans. 7. Iron Stockpot with Tap. 8. Saucepan and Steamer. 9. Steak Tongs. 10. Fish Slice.

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Weights and Scales. — Our list of utensils may well start with this most important article or series of articles, as a good set of weights and scales is absolutely necessary to every cook. The cook should bear in mind always to put the weights away in their respective places after they have been used, and to keep the scales in thorough order. In weighing butter, lard, or anything that is of a greasy nature, a piece of paper should be placed in the scale before putting in the substance to be weighed. By doing this much labour will be saved. There are many reliable kinds of weighing machines, but the ordinary shop scales and weights still remain the most popular, and the price of a set of weights and scales, with weights sufficient to weigh from ± oz. to 14 Ibs., is i8s. 6d., and to weigh 28 Ibs., 225. 6d. Spring balances to weigh up to 200 Ibs. cost about us. and will often be found a great convenience. Mincing Machine. — This time- and labour-saving invention is almost indispensable in elaborate culinary preparations. The intending purchas. i has a wide choice as regards price, size and variety in form. Although the principle is practically the same in all machines, they ditler in many rosjvets some doing their work more thoroughly than othe being more easily adjusted and kept clean. The " American TwoRoller Mincer" is to be highly recommended in this respect, because the rollers arc lined with enamel, and the knives so arranged that they may be easily cleaned. These machines are made in several sizes in two qualities, and may be procured at any ironmonger's, and cost from os. nil. to I2s 6d. Ordinary mincing machines may be obtained at from |s. 3d. Mincing machines answer admirably for quenelle meal, i, etc., when- the meat is mixed with other ingredients; but meat to be served as ci.llops or mince is better cut by hand, as the partimeat must i ite for th«. not crushed into a line mass. Suet may be more quickly and --rily chopped on a board or in a bowl than by a mincing machine, for, no matter how much flour is mixed with it, the suet sticks to the blades of the knives and forms itself into a compact mass. There are. 1... < hopping machines in which the knife acts on the material on the same principle as chopping by hand. They are not gem-rally used in small households, but in hens where mu< h chopping of this description has to be done, they are most •;il.

Brawn Tin. --This utensil is invaluable in preparing brawn or collard he, id. It is a tin cylinder placed on a foot or stand, into which the superfluous grai B when the meat is placed in tin- cylinder and put under pressure. For this purpose the bottom of the cylinder consists of a movable perforated plate. The cylinder is not soldered along the junction of the ends of the metal of which it is composed, but the ends overlap, and are movable, one over the other, to a certain extent. By this means the cylinder is rendered expansive and will expand from (>\ inches in diameter to S inches. It is sold at.js. nd. Tongue or Brawn Presser. Tins article may be used for making either

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brawn or collard head, like the brawn tin last described; or it may be used for compressing boiled tongue into a round, in which shape it is most conveniently sent to table, and moreover ensures an equal distribution of the fat and lean, which is not the case if the tongue be sent up unpressed, when the greater part of the fat in the root of the tongue is sent away uneaten. There is a perforated plate at the bottom through which the gravy escapes, and a flat plate acted on by a powerful screw at the top, by which the contents of the presser are squeezed to flatness. A good presser may be bought for 43. 6d. Rotary Bread Grater. — This machine grates or crumbles the bread without leaving a particle of waste, and will do a small quantity. The crumbs made by this process are much finer than when made on an ordinary bread grater. This grater is only made in one size and quality; the price complete is 53. 6d.

The ordinary bread grater has smaller perforated plates attached to the side for grating nutmeg, ginger, etc., and is supplied at prices ranging from 6d., according to size.

Steak Tongs. — When meat is being broiled or grilled, to prevent the juices of the steak from being lost by pricking the meat with a fork, in turning it about on the gridiron, steak tongs are brought into requisition for handling the steaks during the process. By making use of these the gravy is kept in the meat. These are supplied at prices ranging from 2S. upwards. A cutlet bat is sometimes used for beating cutlets, chops, etc.; steaks, if beaten, are beaten with the rolling-pin. The Meat Chopper is used for chopping and disjointing bones. Their price varies from is. 6d. to 2s., according to size. Meat choppers have wood handles. Steel cleavers have handles of steel, that is to say, blade and handle are made all in one piece. They are sold at from 33. 6d. to 43. 6d., according to size. Meat Saw. — A meat saw is used for sawing bones in places where a chopper is not available. For instance, this utensil would come into requisition where a knuckle of ham is required to be severed from the thick end. The meat would first be cut all round down to the bone with a sharp knife, and the bone would then be sawn through. Good meat saws are sold at from 2s. 6d.

Cook's Knife. — The knives generally used by cooks are made very pointed at the end; and for cookery purposes the slightly convex blades are preferable to those of ordinary shape. They are made 6 inches, 7 inches, 8 inches, 9 inches, 10 inches, 1 1 inches and 12 inches in length, and cost in the best quality from 2s. to 43. each, according to length of blade; and from rod. to is. icd. in the second quality. Both varieties have plain ebony handles. Cook's forks are made to match the knives; they are larger and stronger than ordinary forks, and, therefore, better suited for lifting masses of meat, etc., out of a saucepan. Prices vary from is. to 2S. each, according to length of prong; the average &nd most convenient size cost about 2S. or 2s. 6d,

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French Chopping Knife. — The chopping knife is similar in shape to the cook's knife but of much stronger make. It may be had in two sizes, each made in two qualities, and costing respectively 35. or 35. gd., with blades measuring 9 inches and 6s. or 6s. 6d., with blades 2 inches longer.

Mincing Knife. — A knife for chopping suet or mincemeat on a wooden board. As it is made with a firm wooden handle, the hand does not become so tired as when usintj an ordinary knife on a board; and the chopping is accomplished in a much shorter time. These implements should be kept sharp, and should be ground occasionally. There is also a knife half-circular in form used for chopping materials in a wooden bowl. A good mincing knife in either form is suppl; <>d.

Chopping Bowl and Board. — For chopping suet, meat, etc., with the halfcircular knife a wooden bowl should be provided. They are made from 10 inches to 1 6 inches in diameter, the smallest size being is. 6d.; but that is too small to be generally useful, a more convenient size is the bowl measuring 13 inches, supplied at 45. A chopping board costs abou t Colander. — This useful article comes into daily requisition. The most convenient and strongest form is that of a round tin basin with handles, perforated at the bottom and round the sides with small holes. It is used for straining vegetables, these being poured into • -lander when they arc cooked, and allowed to remain for a minute or two until all the v. drained from them, when they are dished. Colanders, or cullenders, as the word is somespelt, are made in four sizes, supplied in tin at from is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. each, according to size. They are also to be had in strong tin enamelled inside and outside from is., according to size. They possess all the advantages of cleanliness, freedom from rust, etc., of perforated earthenware basins, without their liability to be cracked or broken.

Pestle and Mortar. — Pestles and mortars are made of iron, brass, marble and Wedgwood ware. Those of marble or Wedgwood \\anlly to be preferred, as they can be easily kept clean. This is used for pounding sugar, spices and other ingredients required in manv; ns of the culinary art. Potted meat is >oked. minced anil then pounded in a mortar; and many must be pounded before they can be rubbed through a s and mo; >n, are made in M ig from 7 to 10 inches, taking the diameter of the top of the mortar, and are sold at i;: 1. to 33. 3d., according to size. These include Me mortars range in size from 10 inches '>d. to 95. 3d. Pestles of hardio be u-^-il with these mortars, cost from 2S. upwards,

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Preserving Pans. — Jams, jellies, marmalades and preserves are made in these utensils, which should be kept scrupulously clean, and well examined before being used. Copper preserving pans range in size from n inches to 18 inches in diameter, in capacity from 5 quarts to 21 quarts, and in price from 145. to 295. Preserving pans in enamelled cast iron are sold at from 33. 6d. upwards, according to size.

Vegetable Cutters. — Vegetables are cut into fanciful shapes, by means of these little cutters. Stewed steaks and such dishes, in which vegetables form an important addition, are much improved in appearance by having these shaped. The price of a box of assorted vegetable cutters ranges from 2s. 3d. to 45. 6d. Fancy cutters are sold at 2d. to 6d. each. These cutters can be made useful in ornamenting pastry, or cutters especially made for pastry can be had at 3d. each, or in boxes from is. 6d. to 2S., according to make.

Vegetable Scoop. — This implement is used for cutting vegetables into small, pea-shaped forms. It is supplied at a cost of 6d. Cucumber Slice. — For shredding cucumbers into the thinnest possible slices, a little machine is often used. It is made of wood, with a steel knife running across the centre, and sold at 2s. After the cucumber is pared it should be held upright, and worked backwards and forwards on the knife, being borne sufficiently hard to make an impression on the cucumber.

Paste-Board and Rolling Pin. — Paste-boards of average size, made of well-seasoned deal, with clamped ends, are supplied at 2S. 6d. or 35. 6d. When not in use they should be kept in a clean dry place, otherwise they may become mildewed, and the stains thus caused are indelible. Rolling-pins are made in two shapes, convex, that is, tapering towards each end, and perfectly straight. The shaped ones may be very dexterously employed by a skilful cook in shaping pastry and dough; but novices in this branch of the culinary art should select a straight rolling-pin. Both shapes are supplied at from 4d. to is., according to size, and the quality of the wood. The best qualities are made from well-seasoned Indian boxwood; a rolling pin of this description, measuring 18 inches in length, costs 2S. 3d. Sieves. — Sieves, both hair and wire, are made in various sizes, but they are inconvenient unless large enough to fit easily over large basins, into which soup is usually sieved or strained. The hair sieves are used principally for vegetable purees and other substances of a sufficiently fine soft nature to allow them to be readily passed through. Some of the fibre of meat, after being well pounded, may be rubbed through a li.iir sieve,but with a considerable expenditure of time and strength, therefore a fine wire sieve is usually selected for this purpose. A fine wire sieve is also used in making breadcrumbs. Sieves of suitable size and mesh for ordinary purposes may be had for 6d. to is. 2d. Paste Jaggers. — These are used for trimming and cutting pastry.

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THE KITOIKN 69 The little wheel at the end of the jagger is mad I e. and is used for marking pastry which has to be divided after it is baked. The of a jagger is from 6d. to is. 6d.

Coffee and Pepper Mills. — Intent improved mills for grinding coffee, pepp<. etc., may be had to fix permanently to the wall, or temporarily to the kitchen table or dressers. They are provided with a regulating screw, to grind fine or coarse, as may be desired. They.ade in four sizes, and cost from 35. to os. each. Wire Dish Corer.— This is an article belonging strictly to the larder, and is intended for covering over meat, pastry, etc., to protect it from flies and dust. It is a most necessary addition to the larder, especially in summer time. These covers are made in sizes ranging from 10 jo inches in length, and sold at prices rising from is, jd. to !., according to sue. Round plate covers in the same material are supplied at from is. 3d. Wire meat safes, japanned, 16 in..: in. and ^4 in. square, are supplied at from 2OS, \\ h panels of perforated zinc, 24 in., 27 in. and square, are s«>Kl at from 95. 6d.

Knife Tray, Plato Basket and Plate Carrier.— A knife tray should be ^ dose at hand all knives in:i tin, sold at 2s. od. to 3$. od., according to sire, is very easily washed, and will always appear clean and in nice order, if properly looked after. Japanned trays, equal I and scr:nay be had, single, with round corners, at from 2S. to.vith square corners, from 2S, 6d. to 8s. V:<>r spoons, forks, etc., lined with baize, are suppl four sizes from 2S. 6d. to $s. each; and wicker plate carriers for unlined. at.:ied with tin. 6s, The tin, it japanned, costs ios. 6d. A asket for the reception oi been used and removed from table, with loose v and lined with tin, is supplied in three sizes at 45. to 6s. 6d. Baking Dish.— Many housewives prefer for family pies and puddings a baking dish made of tin, which may be covered with a wire grating. so that it may be used for baking meat and potatoes, the latter being i in the dish and the meat on the wire grating. Seamless bakingpans, in all forms, oblong, square, round and oval, may be had in sizes ranging from 4 to ^o inches, at prices from $d. to ding to size.

Tartlet Pans.— The trimmings of pastry rolled out, laid in a tartlet pan. and baked, form the foundation of open tarts. The pans are nv cs, from 6 inches to 12 inches in length, with plain or fluted edges, at prices ranging from 2d. to is. 6d., according to size and Patty-pans,— These are made of tin, and used for cheese-cakes, little tarts, mince-pies, etc. Some are fluted and some plain, and are manufactured in all sizes and of different shapes, bot

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and round. The price of a dozen patty-pans, in tin, ranges from 2d. upwards, according to size and shape.

Raised Pie Mould. — The moulds in which raised pies are made open at the side, with loose bottom plates. They are usually, though not necessarily, oval in shape; they are made from 6 inches to 1 1 inches in length; and the smallest size is supplied in strong tin at 25. to 33.

Border Mould. — This mould measures 7 inches in length, 2^ inches in height; its capacity is i^ pints, and its price in copper, lined with pure tin, 8s. Very effective designs may now be obtained in strong tin from lod. upwards.

Coffee and Tea Canisters, etc. — Japanned tin is the metal of which canisters for tea and coffee are composed. The flavour of the tea and the aroma of the coffee may be preserved by keeping them in tin canisters. The prices of these canisters, to hold from 2 oz. to 6 lb., range from 6d. to 33., according to size. Among other boxes, made in tin and japanned, for the reception of articles of daily use and consumption may be named SEASONING BOXES, at 35., 35. 6d. and 43. 6d., according to size; SPICE BOXES at 2S., 2S. 6d. and 33., according to size; SUGAR BOXES, square in shape, with division, in five sizes without drawer to receive pounded sugar dropping from divisions through perforated bottom, from 2S. 9d. to 93. 6d.; or in three sizes with drawers, from 6s. 6d. to IDS. Round SUGAR CANISTERS, holding from i lb. to 6 lb., are sold at from 8d. to 43. 6d., according to size; and FLOUR BINS, bright tin inside and japanned blue with black hoops outside, ranging in capacity from i gallon to 3 bushels, are supplied at from 33. 6d. to 28s., according to size.

Hot-water Dish. — In cold weather such joints as venison, a haunch, saddle or leg of mutton should always be served on a hot-water dish, as they are so liable to chill. This dish is arranged with a double bottom which is filled with very hot water just before the joint is sent to table, and so keeps that and the gravy hot. Although an article of this description can scarcely be ranked as a kitchen utensil, still the utility of it is obvious. Hot-water dishes may be had, made entirely of metal, of various sizes from 2 is. upwards, or in nickel, electro-plated, at higher prices. Hot- water plates range in price from is. 6d. upwards. Gravy Strainer. — One of these is absolutely indispensable. One variety is like an inverted cone with the pointed end cut off, having a handle attached to it, and a plate perforated with very fine holes, or piece of wire netting, at the bottom, below which is a rim on which it stands. It is made in three sizes, with fine or coarse bottom, sold at is. 6d.,. is. 9d. and 2S. each, according to size. Another kind is made in the form of a cone; but this, of course, will not stand by itself, terminating; as it does in a point. It is made in three sizes, with fine or coarse netting, sold at lod. to 2s. 6d., according to size. Egg Poacher. — When eggs are much used in a family, an egg poacher

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forms a desirable addition to the utensils of the kitchen. These are made in different forms, the ordinary poacher being in the form of a circular tin plate, with three or four depressions, to contain the eggs, and with an upright handle rising from the centre. The plate is supported by feet, on which it stands when lowered into the saucepan. Poachers for three eggs are sold for is. 4d.; for four eggs at is. i id. Cask Stand. — For beer it is desirable to have a stand by which the cask may be raised or lowered without shaking its contents. The lever cask stand will be found most useful for this purpose. This stand is, perhaps, the best that has yet been produced, its action being very simple and easy to understand. The price of stand for a 9-gallon cask is 6s.; for an iS-gallon cask, 8s.

Beer Tap. — The best kind of tap for home use is the brass syphon beer tap, which requires no vent-peg, and is fitted with a protector in front, to receive the blows of the mallet in tapping a cask. The protector may be unscrewed to clean the syphon tube when it is in the cask. Another improvement consists in the self-acting tube being brought down close to the mouth of the jug, glass or vessel into which the beer is drawn. Directions for keeping the tap in order are given to the purchaser. This tap is sold at 35. 6d.

The Corrugated Kettle. — The chief feature of t 'e is the fluted form of the bottom, which not only adds considerably to its str< but increases the heating surface about 20 per cent., thereby causing the water to boil in a very much shorter time than in an ordinary flat-bottomed kettle. The peculiar form of this kettle, both as regards the fluted bottom and dome top, renders it especially suitable for use on gas or petroleum stoves or spirit lamps. ia made in polished steel in nine sizes, holding from I to 12 pints, and sold at prices ranging from is. 6d. to 45. 3d., according to size. It is also made in polished copper or brass in the four smaller sizes, from i to 3 pints, sold at from 55. to 75. 6d. with ordinary handle In the five larger sizes, holding from 4 to i j pints, it is made in polished copper with turned handle and spout, and sold at prices ranging from 8s. to i8s. Coffee-pot. — When well made, coffee, perhaps, is the most delicious and n -freshing of all the infusions that are made for household use, but the goodness of coffee very often depends on the construction of the m which it is made, and it is most desirable to use one in which, omatic oil of the berry developed in the process of roasting is not driven off by boiling, on the one hand, which invariably spoils coffee, and not made sufficiently perceptible by the endeavour to make it at too low a temperature, which is too often the case. In one of the t Coffee Cans either contingency is happily avoided by the peculiar construction of this coffee-pot, in which the coffee, when making, is surrounded by a jacket of boiling water, and thus kept at such a temperature that the valuable principle in which the aroma - n. off, but gradually and continuously brought out,.

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thus increasing to a wonderful extent the flavour and fragrance of the drink. By means of this utensil coffee can be made to perfection in so short a time as two minutes, which shows how easy and rapid the process is when performed by means of this utensil. They are kept in various sizes, and made of various materials, and vary in price from 55. 6d. upwards.

Freezing Machines. — Ice is now so much used at English tables that it has become a necessary of household economy, and dessert ices follow summer dinners as a matter of course. Dessert ices are, by modern invention and ingenuity, placed within the reach of most housekeepers, and it is easy to make ices by one of the patent freezing machines, which afford a quick, economical and most simple method of freezing. Two ices, or an ice and an ice pudding can be made at the same time by these machines. The mixture to be iced is placed in the tubes or cylinders; outside these tubes rough ice and salt are placed, the ice being pounded, and the salt and a little water added; the piston is then worked up and down. This movement produces a constant change and agitation of the ice and salt, which is compelled to pass- round and round the agitator. Two stirrers are attached to the piston, and work at the same time with it; these " stirrers " go up and down inside the cylinders, and stir up and mix the cream or water mixture undergoing the freezing process. This agitation of the cream, etc., is necessary to prevent the future ice from being lumpy and snowy. When the freezing is complete the stirrers are taken out of the cylinders, and the ice pressed down firmly by a presser; this moulds it to the form of the cylinder. It is set by keeping it still in the machine for a short time longer, still working the piston up and down; it is then turned out, beautifully iced and moulded. The same ice and salt which freezes the dessert ices will afterwards freeze a block of pure water ice, or may be used to cool wine.

These freezing machines are made in oak, and are supplied in three sizes, Nos. i, 2 and 3, to freeze and mould i, 2 and 3 pints respectively, at £2 i os., ^3 53., and ^3 155. These are to be used with ice and salt only.

Refrigerators are very necessary in a household, as they ensure both comfort and economy, and, indeed, promote good health in the summer. They consist essentially of cupboards or chests, lined with zinc, and kept cool by ice. The ice receptacle, however, should have no connexion with the storage part, as the food should be kept in a cold, dry atmosphere. A properly-made refrigerator consists of a wood cupboard or chest, lined inside with zinc, and having a tight fitting door; between the zinc lining and wood casing there should be a layer of insulating material, such as thick felt (the cheapest), or better, asbestos, or its artificial substitute, slag-wool. This insulating layer prevents loss by too rapid dissipation of the cold by contact with the hotter outside

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KITCHEN UTENSILS, Mayonnaise Mixer, Mincer, Asparagus Dibh. Masher and Strainer, Egg Boiler, Table Hot Plate, Hot Water Dish, Gas Grilling Stove, Cream Freezer.

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KITCHEN UTENSILS.

i. Chafing Dish Pan. 2. Chafin? Dish Stand and Lamp. 3. Doubls Boiler of Chafog Dish. 4. Jelly Mould. 5. Meat Slice. 6. Whisk. 7. Channj Dish complete. 8. Colander. 9. Dutch Oven. 10. Spice Box.

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air. The ice chamber should also be lined with zinc, and be placed at the top or back of the chest, a waste pipe being provided for draining away the water, which may be stored in another zinc receptacle under the chest, and used as an ice bath for bottles of liquors, etc. Ice quickly melts if surrounded by water or air, therefore keep the ice chest closed and well drained. If you have a piece of ice but no proper receptacle for it, you may keep it for a long time even in summer if you wrap it in a blanket and place it in a dark, dry place. Unless you are quite sure of the purity of ice, never mix it with food or beverages; cool down to the required temperature by surrounding the vessels in which the food or beverage is contained with a mixture of pounded ice and salt. An ice closet, or refrigerator, should not bi in a kitchen; place it in the larder, at all events well away from the direct sunlight; choose the darkest corner. The interior should be kept scrupulously clean.

Filters. — Absolutely pure water is not to be found in nature, for even rain (natural distillation, resulting from condensation following on evaporation of sea, lake, river and soil surface water by the sun- rays) absorbs gases and dust as it descends through the various atmospheric strata. Lake, river and spring waters contain gases, earthy salts and organic matter. The salts are not to be feared unless present in large quantities, but the presence of organic matter, if not always dangerous, should give rise to suspicion. Organic matter in water is usually the result of decomposition, and whether of vegetable or animal origin is nearly always unwholesome; but too often such organic matter may comprise chemical poisons or the so-called poison secreting specific, or pathogenic, microbes. To get rid of superfluous earthy salts (more especially lime and magnesia) and organic matter, various methods of purification are adopted. Water supplied to towns by compani*. •> or municipalities is usually filtered through extensive and deep beds of sand gravel and other materials. Sometimes the water is first run into tanks, chemicals added, and the superabundant lime allowed to cl before the water is run on the filters. Domestic filters are constructed on much the same principle, the water being made to pass through layers of sand, charcoal, spongy iron, porous earthenware or ]>aUi:t compositions. Charcoal and iron are believed to have a chemical as well as a mechanical influence, as they absorb oxygen and part with it, and also absorb deleterious gases. The varieties and styles of filters differ so widely that it is almost impossible to give prices. A domestic filter may be made by thoroughly charring the inside of an oaken cask (this is best done by burning spirits of wine in it), then placing curved porous tiles at the bottom, covering this with a layer of carefully cleansed gravel, upon the top of which should be a finer gravel, and finally sand or coarsely ground charcoal. The danger of all filters is that they soon get foul if constantly used, and then water passed through them is only contaminated. There arc

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74 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENf tubes composed of siliceous infusorial earths, which are very compact, but allow water introduced into them slowly to percolate. The only way to obtain absolutely pure water is to use a still, in which water is evaporated by heat, and the steam being caught and condensed by cold is obtained in the form of liquid water. But this water is of a " dead " character, having no oxygen, and if exposed to the air quickly absorbs atmospheric gases and dust. For practical purposes, if water has to be purified, the best plan is to boil it. This not only destroys living germs and their spores, but splits up organic matter and causes the earthy salts to be deposited in the form of slime or " fur." The kettle has the advantage of being available both for home and outdoor use — for instance on country excursions, when very often water of doubtful character is alone to be procured. Washing and Wringing Machines. — In large establishments where there is a laundry these do not enter into " The Arrangement and Economy of the Kitchen," but in smaller ones they often of necessity form part of the furniture. The price of a small one is from 203 to 903. Washing machines are daily becoming more general in private families, and needless to say washing at home, if practicable, is a great economy. Fireproof Earthenware Cooking Appliances and Casserole Pots are benefits which we owe to Continental chefs. For many purposes they are not to be surpassed. They are light, cleanly, impart no flavour to the most delicate of viands, quick in use, and may, for the most part, be sent up to table with their contents direct from the kitchener. Among other purposes fireproof earthenware vessels are excellent for cooking " ceufs sur le plat," or fried eggs, scrambled eggs, stewed and baked tomatoes, joints of meat " au daube," that is, stewed with rich gravy and vegetables. These are all dishes which would be spoilt in colour and flavour if iron saucepans were used. Moreover, as this ware is decidedly ornamental, they only require to be taken from the oven or hot plate, placed on a dish and sent to the dining-room. Enamelled Ware is now much used, both for cooking and other kitchen utensils. As a rule these consist of rather thin sheets of steel, or iron, stamped out into different shapes, and then coated inside and out with fireproof enamel; the coat used for the outside generally being blue, and that for the inside white. The advantages of enamelled ware are that it is clean, acid-proof and does not injure the colour or flavour of any article cooked and placed within it. Vessels of this ware are especially useful for making sauces, boiling milk, farinaceous puddings and stewing fruit. These utensils are also easily cleaned. But it is necessary to buy good quality articles, as in the cheaper classes the enamel is often thin, inferior and contaminated with arsenic. Inferior enamel is apt to chip, and this is dangerous, as the particles are as sharp as glass and capable of causing serious digestive troubles. Moreover, if the enamel is chipped or badly cracked, all the advantages of enamelling are neutralized, as the foods come into direct contact with the metal, and

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further act on the under part of the enamel. This ware should always be properly seasoned before use. Fill to the brim with boiling water, add a good allowance of soda and allow to get cool, then wash thoroughly in very hot soap suds. Enamelled metal ware should never be placed in the oven or on a stove, unless it contains a liquid or some fat, otherwise the enamel will crack.

Aluminium is a metal existing largely in clay. It is only within recent years that it has been able to be extracted economically and in sufficient quantities for commercial purposes. Its chief characteristics are its extreme lightness, its resistance to the action of most acids and atmospheric influences, and the ease with which it forms most useful alloys. In its natural condition it is of a dullish silver hue. Aluminium cooking and kitchen utensils are now either stamped out of sheet metal or moulded. Their extreme lightness makes stewpans, frying-pans and bain-maries of this metal most handy in the kitchen, and the fact that the juices of vegetables and fruits, etc., do not act upon it, gives aluminium a considerable advantage over copper. The metal heats quickly and retains its heat for a long time. It requires some care in cleaning. As yet aluminium kitchen ware is somcuh.it expensive, but when its merits are more widely recognized, and it comes into more general use, prices are likely to fall. The Chafing Dish is a very ancient utensil, much used by our ancestors and then gradually neglected. But it has come into fashion again, largely through a revival of its use in America. The chafing dish is a deep metal pan, with sloping sides, and provided with a domed cover, which fits in the circular rim of a metal tripod. On the stand of the tripod beneath the dish a spirit lamp is placed. In some instances the dish is heated by electricity. As a rule these articles are highly ornamental, and are meant to be used on the table or sideboard; they are usually brought into requisition at breakfast, luncheon and supper, and are undoubtedly most serviceable in households where only a few servants are kept, as by their aid dainty little dishes such as fried or scrambled eggs, omelettes, stewed kidneys, broiled tomatoes, "welch rarebit or cheese fondu, and similar preparations can be sj» red at the early morning meal, or at a late supper "after the theatre." For dwellers in flats the chafing dish is almost indispensable. Complete List of Domestic Utensils. — Here we must bring our notices of utensils that find a place in most kitchens to a close, omitting many articles of less importance not likely to be called so frequently into use. Everything necessary for a family, whether large or small, is included in the following complete specifications of domestic utensils, which will show at a glance the articles required for the kitchens of families, ranging from those for whom a small cottage affords sufficient accommodation to those who have an income large enough to warrant the occupation of a mansion. For a mansion, whose many guests are oming and going, and where a large number of domestics are kept,

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a great number of articles will be required, and these are set forth in specification No. I. In specification No. II everything is included that is necessary for culinary operations in a family whose head is possessed of ample means. Specification No. Ill includes those articles which should be found in comparatively small houses; whilst in specification No. IV such things only are enumerated as are indispensable to a family possessed of a small income, and moving in a comparatively humble sphere of life.

Specifications and Estimates for Outfit of Kitchens. — The following specifications and estimates, it may be said, have been carefully prepared. They are exclusive of tinnery and brushes. Each specification is complete in itself, and any of the articles mentioned may be had singly at the same prices.

SPECIFICATION No. I.

This Specification is complete and suitable for any Mansion. £ s. d.

8 Copper Stewpans, assorted sizes..... 5 12 6 i Copper Stock Pot, 10 galls., with tap and Drainer. 5 18 6 1 Copper Bain marie, 1 1 vessels 7 7 o 2 Copper Saute or Cutlet Pans i Copper Braizing Pan with Fire Cover, 18 in... 440 i Copper Egg Bowl...0186 i Copper Sugar Boiler.. 015 o 1 Copper Preserving Pan. i 16 o 2 Copper Jelly Moulds i i 6 2 Copper Charlotte Moulds, 2 pt., 35. 6d., 2j, 43. 6d. o 8 o 12 Copper Dariol Moulds, 2 in. o 9 6 12 Copper Fancy Entroe Cups, assorted o 12 o 2 Copper Conical Gravy Strainers..... o 17 6 1 Copper Soup Ladle..046 2 Copper D Slices... o 10 o 2 Copper Dish-up Spoons.0100 1 Copper Dish - up, perforated......046 2 Copper Omelette Pans. o 15 9 2 Copper Baking Plates..126 i Oval Wrought iron Fat Pan and Drainer.... o 19 6 i Oblong Wrought -steel Dripping Pan with Well, on iron legs.. •..286 Basting Ladle for ditto. o 10 6 Large Wood Meat Screens with Hot Closet.. 912 6 Steel Cutlet Bat...046 Cast -steel Meat Saw..046 Cast-steel Cutlet Saw..036 £ s. d.

i Cast -steel Cleaver.. o i Set Skewers, gd., is., is. 6d o i Case Larding Needles. o i Daubing Needle.. o 3 Cooks' Knives... o 1 Cooks' Bone Knife.. o 2 Root Knives, is.. o 2 Steel Dish-up Forks with Guard.... o Salamander and Stand o Pair Steak Tongs.. o Toasting Fork.. o Fluted Bar Gridiron. o Hanging Gridiron. 036 Oval Iron Fry Pan. 026 6 Tinned Iron Saucepans o 13 6 2 Ditto, with steamer, 6 qt. 55.; 8 qt., 6s. 6d.. o n 6 i Best Wrought-iron Tea Kettle o 10 6 i Copper-Bottom Tin-Body Range Kettle...026 1 6 gal. Oval Wrought-steel Boiling Pot... i 10 o 2 Strong Wire Fry Baskets, 2S. 6d., 35. 6d....060 i Strong Tin Fish Kettle, Copper Bottom. o 10 6 i Strong Tin Turbot Kettle, Copper Bottom..150 Marble Slab for Pastry. o 10 6 Box Pastry Cutters, each Round and Fluted..050 Box Assorted Fancy Cutters 020 Paste J agger....010 Box Vegetable Cutters..036 Salad Basket (Wire)..036 Carried forward r « -£5^ 10 §

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SPECIFICATION No. I. (continued). i Patent Bread Grater. •lied Iron Spoons i Block Tin Souj. Ladle i Hour and Sugar Dredge. _' IVpprr Boxes, 4d. each i 1'otato Masher •l>le Scoops, wood handles l-'unnels....

i Raised Pie Mould... i !>../< -ii Tartlet te Tins.. 3 Dozen Round Pattypans, fluted i Bread Rasp 1 1 'alette Knife.... 2 \Vire Egg Whisks, strong, }d., is. gd..

i Refrigerator.... i Pewter Ice Pot, with Cover i Pail f..r ditto, O.ik... 1 Spatula 2 Pewter lor Pudding Moulds IJ Pewter I' '•! 'lllds i Marl.le M-.i-t.tr. 14 in... i Lignum Vitad • 'u.ility " Knife hint- on high stand, dr. m 4 kniv.

\. i 5« io 6 Brought forward. 026 i Spice Box, Block Tin. 056 i Seasoning Box 019 i Mincing Machine, Vitrified 026 Enamel 008 i Set Registered Scales and 023 Weights, to weigh 28 Ib. 12 Tinned Meat Hooks.. 036 2 Corkscrews.... O o io 2 Tin Openers 056 3 C,alvani/ed Pails, is. (,d.. 0 i 6 i Coal Hod, Zinc lined. i Kitchen Fender oio I Set Kitchen Fire Iron020 i Tin Coffee Pot, 35. 6d.. i 026 Tin Tea Pot, 35. 6d.. I Coffee Mill. Steel... 030 3 Japanned Travs. Strong. 550 i Lemon Squee/er 1 i o i Jelly Bag and Stand. 1 Set Tea, Coffee, an-! Canisters....

4 Han -t...

2 Brass Wire M< \es. Hour Kit Rolling Pin. hard w.*-d.ve Brushes..

-...

Hair Broom and handle. •r Yard Broom and.lie Ling Brushes..

o 15 o £ s. d.

o 10 6 o 4 o Cam •£74 4 6 SPECIFICATION No. II. > Good Class Houses. -sorted £ 5. d.

5 io o with tap and dr,( \ 5 o;>er Saute Pan. o IO 6 per Sugar Boiler. o io 6 per Egg Bowl. o 15 o mg Pan 140 •er Jelly Moulds. o 17 6 r 1 >ariol Moulds 096 Cups i Onlv Copper Char. 2 pt....036 I Onlv < r £ s. d.

Brought forward... 14 o 3 '76 i Copper D Slice...050 i Oval Wrought-iron Fat. o 15 o i Wrought-iron Dripping with Well and Iron legs...226 Ladle for ditto. o 8 6 i Wooden Meat Screen, circular corners and Hot Closet Bottle Jack and Crane CoiupletI Cutlet Bat....

>a\v....

.rd...£14 6 3 i Cutlet Saw.

o 14 » 4 o 4 o 3 '3 3

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£ s.

£ s.

. I Set Skewers, each gd. is. o Patty Pans fluted... • X Case Larding Needles '., i Bread Rasp.... o o. X Daubing Needle o i Strong Wire Egg Whisk o a Cooks' Knives. b 5 6 i Refrigerator.... o x Cooks' Bone Knife. o i Pewter Freezing Pot a Root Knives, is.... o a i Oak Pail for ditto... o Dish-up Forks with Guard o Spatula o. X Salamander and Stand o i Pewter Ice Pudding Mould o X Pair Steak Tongs... o 6 Pewter Ice Dessert Moulds o o X Toast Fork.... o:'•!

o i Marble Mortar o IO X Fluted Bar Gridiron o.3 i Lignum Vitae Pestle. X Strong Wire Hanging Gridi Set Best Scales and Weights iron • • • • o 14 Ib o X Oval Iron Fry Pan.. o i Knife Machine on High 4 Iron Saucepans; assorted. o Stand, 3 knives and carver 2 I 2 gall, ditto, with steamer o i Mincing Machine X Cast-iron Oval Boiling Pot 3 Hair Sieves.... o I Oval Wrought-iron Tea i Brass Wire Sieve... o Kettle Meat Hooks....

X Copper-bottom, Tin-body I Jelly Bag and Stand.. o Well Kettle....

2 Corkscrews o o X Strong Tin Colander. o 3s I Coffee Mill, Steel... X Strong Tin Fish Kettle, I Kitchen Fender Copper Bottom.

o ••!* I Set Kitchen Irons X Strong Fish Kettle, Tin I Zinc-lined Coal Hod.. o Bottom 'o I Tin Coffee Pot... X Box Paste Cutters, Round o I Tin Tea Pot.... X. Box Paste Cutters, Fluted 2 J apanned Trays, Strong. o X Box Fancy Cutters.,tj o I Lemon Squeezer o • I X Paste J agger... ^, Japanned Spice Box. b, p 2 Tin Openers.... Galvanized Pails o o o X Seasoning Box I Set Tea, Coffee, and Sugar X Bread Grater.... o Canisters....

12 Assorted Iron Spoons. o _ Flour Kit sX Box Vegetable Cutters o I Rolling Pin, hardwood o X Strong Tin Soup Ladle a I Paste Board, hardwood I Fish Slice o I Set Stove Brushes I Egg Slice _ _ Q J Set Shoe Brushes... Q e 3 Vegetable Scoops. o I Hair Broom and Handle. j X each Flour and Sugar I Bass or Yard Broom and Dredge, is. 3d.. Handle o a Tin Funnels.... o O 3 Scrubbing Brushes 12 Tartlette Pans.... o i Meat Chopper.... •£30 7 £43 6 3 SPECIFICATION No. III. Suitable for Middle-Class Houses j Saucepans, £ s. d.

4 Sanitary Steel assorted.....

1 Sanitary Steel Stock Pot, 3 galls o 18 2 Tinned Iron Saucepans. o 4 i 10 pt. ditto, with steamer o 4 •£2 2 9 i Oval Boiling Pot, 3 galls, o 4 i Preserving Pan, Copper. o 16 i Sanitary Steel Saute Pan. o 3 i Sanitary Steel Omelette Pan o 2..£396

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KITCHEN UTENSILS.

rtPans. 2. Patty Pans. 3. Raised Pie Mould. 4. Paste J agger. 5. Fancy lo Cutters and Case. 6. Vegetable Scoops. 7. Paste Bo.ml and Pin. 8. Plain Charlotte Pudding Mould. 9. Gridiron. 10. Mangle or Wringer, n. Tin-lined; Knife Basket. 12. Coffee Canister. 13. Bread Grater.

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HOUSEHOLD REQUISITES.

Composition for Cleaning and Polishing, Ammonia Soap, Kleenall, Extract of Soap, Metal Polish, Berlin Black, Walnut Varnish Stain, Metal Polish, Oik Varnish Stain, Brunswick Black, Best White Paint, Safety Matches, Soluble Soft Soap, Non-Mercurial Plate Powder, Black Meltonian Cream, Gishurstine, Floor Polish, Ronuk, Blacking, Black Lead, Wax Polish, Blue, Superior Blacking, Grate Polish, Nugget Black Polish, Knife Polish, Nuggat Brown Polish, Spiritine.

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SPECIFICATION No. III. (continued). s. d.

I Brass Bottle Jack and Crane....

s I Jack Screen I Block Tin Fish Kettle I Mincing Machine. I Knife Machine, to clean knives and c arvers. 2 Cooks' Knives. I Dish-up Fork with Guard I Game Oven o I Fluted Hanging Gridiron Strong Wire Hanging Grid iron o o I Set Best Scales and Weights 14 Ib, 1 I Meat Saw !

I Meat Chopper.... I Iron Frying Pan o I Iron Kettle.... o j Tin Kettle, Copper Bottom o I Double Oven Pan 2 Cake Tins 2 Tin Moulds.... a IJ Tin Dariol Moulds o I Box Plain and Fluted Pastry Cutters... o j o I Colander M Patty Pans, plain Fish Slice.

Q Egg Slice,, Q Set Skewers. 6d.. <>J... (.

Wire Toast F- >rk... 1 > Vegetable Scoop... ' > Vegetable Cutter... Root Knife....

D Sugar Dredge.... Flour Dredge.... Tin Funnel....

t Gravy Strainers, flat and conical a I *. d.

o i o O 2 O o 3 ii 2 O Wire Egg Whisk Tin Opener Corkscrew Lemon Squeezer Composition Mortar and Pestle Wire Fry Basket... Fish Frying Pan with Wire Drainer Spice Box Iron Spoons, assorted.. o Wood Spoons. o Hair Sieve o Tinned Wire Sieve.. o Baking Plate, oblong. o Dust Pan.... o Flour Bin, Japanned. o Each Tea, Coffee and S> Canisters....090 Potato Masher...010 Gallon Pail.... o I 6 Gallon Oval Wash-up Pan 030 Paste Board....026 Rolling Pin....009 Wire Dish Covers, is. 6d., Enamelled Pie Dishes.026 I.naiuelled Pudding Basins 020 lied Wat.

8 pint Kitchen Fender...066 Set Kitchen Fire Irons -033 Coal Hod e Brushes..029 Set Shoe Brushes...046 Hair Broom and Handle.030 Bass or Yard Broom.020 3 Scrubbing Brushes..030 •£9 17 5 SPECIFICATION No. IV. Suitable for very small Houses. £ s. d.

3 Tinned Iron Saucepans.060 Tinned ditto, with steamer 036 Tinned Oval Boiling Pot, 3 Rails Enamelled Steel Saucepans 020 Iron Kettle....036 Tin Kettle....019 Frying Pan, iron...019 Baking Pan....013 £146 12 Patty Pans..

3 Cutters i Fish Kettle.

i Tin Colander.

3 Iron Spoons.

Broueht forward.. i •lire Pudding Tin. o Cake Tins o s. d.

o 8 o

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So SPECIFICATION No. IV. (continued). Root Knife.... Flour Dredge Pepper Box.... Cooks' Knives £ i"

o o o 1 O s.

o 't o' d.

Enamelled Jug, 3 pint. Enamelled Preserving Pan Patent Steamer Cooker, 4 vessels £ o o s.

o lo d.

9k Hanging Wire Gridiron. Fish Slice.... O1 o j) o 6' Q Pestle and Mortar Lemon Squeezer o o o Set Skewers.... Vegetable Scoop Baking Sheet... Cooks' Fork.... Fry Basket.... a o o o T Coffee Pot.... Tea Pot Gallon Pail.... Galvanized Oval Washingup Pan Gravy Strainer Hair Sieve..';. •'> ' Wire Sieve.... o o o o Spring Balance Family Scales, 20 Ib.... Knife Machine, " Servants Corkscrew....

Spice Box. '.'" s.: Tin Opener.... ' Tea, Coffee, and Sugar Canister....

Flour Bin, Japanned. Potato Masher 2 Enamelled Pie Dishes 3 Enamelled Pudding Basin 5 o o O:

p 6~ Mincing Machine. Coffee Mill.... Set Stove Brushes Set Boot Brushes Hair Broom and Handle Bass or Yard Broom and Handle....

Scrubbing Brushes o o o..£699 Turnery and Brushes, etc. — To render the information given here as complete as possible, lists are appended: (i) of the various articles usually comprehended under the general term " Turnery," with brushes; and (2) of numerous sundries of which it is always desirable to know the price. As it is impossible to give prices where many sizts of the same article are on sale, the minimum only has been stated, preceded by the word " from." TURNERY (Best London Make) and BRUSHES. s. d.

o 6 o 9 Butter Prints.. from Butter Prints, in Case „ Knife Trays, Mahogany „ Knife Trays, Oak. Knife Trays, Wicker Knife Trays, Japanned, Single.,, 020 Knife Trays, Japanned, Double..,, 056 Plate Baskets, Wicker „ 026 Meat Safes, Wooden, Zinc Panels.. „ o 17 6 Meat Safes, J apanned Wire... „ 100 Jelly Bags... „ 030 Jelly Bags, Wood Stand for.. each 046 Carried forward... £3 7 o Plate Racks.. from Housemaid's Box, Deal „ Decanter Drainers.. „ Linen Press, Washing Trays... „ Clothes-horse,, Wicker Plate Carriers.,, Cask Stand, Patent.. „ Beer Taps Stands for Trays — Unpolished.... Polished....

Best Boxwood Churns from Butter Knives... „• Butter Hands Salt Box, s. d.

7 o 8 o o 8 o 9 o 3 o i

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HOUSEHOLD UTENSILS.

i. Bread Cutter. a. Coffee Roaster. 3. Carpet Sweeper. 5. Knife Cleaner. 6. Spice Box.

Wringer and Mangle.

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TURNERY and BRUSHES (cwiinucd). £ d.

£ s.

t!.

o Bp>ut:ht forward. I » a Butlers' Aprons. from Hand Brooms. Chamois Leather, Carpet Whisks...,, Flour Tubs. o Hand Brushes..,, Flour Tubs, Barrel Shape, Oak Tubs, Round o Heuth Brushes Banister Brushes, Single N o o Oak Tubs, Oval. Do. Double..,, Elm Bowls.., o Banister Stair Carpet.,, House Pails, Wood o Shoe Brushes, per set of 3,, o Chopping Board. „ Boxes for Stove Brushes each o Door Scrapers, with Stove Brushes '.

Brushes..

i:

Plate Brushes.. o Curtain or Bed Brooms,, o Oil Brushes... e.u'h o Telescope ditto.. „ Dish Brushes o £"

M:1 • SUNDRIES.

£ f.

£,/.

Bone Spoons.. from o Bottle Ba>kets.. H«»U>.

o Blaek Lead. Bi-st. per \b. Knife Boards ff; Bellows, Kitchen. from Knit.- Polish... M o Bell( i\vs, fancv pattern •'.ats.

Bread Platters.. Leather, Cham< o Bread Knives o Lemon Squeezer o Butter Dishes, Carved o Lemon Carats o Beetle Traps o Lawn Sieves. o Butlers' Aprons, Green Library Brushes.. "

Baize...

o Marrow Scoops, I \ <T v Butlers' Apron, Red Mallets.... o q,, Leather.. „ o o Mops o t 1 Buff Leather Ki Mops for Jugs.. bi>anU...,, Mouse-Traps M o Nai! Brushes P.ottlr Bni-hex.. Napkin Kings, Bone Crumb Bni-hes.., o o ry M Cindei 5... Paste Brushes H Cucumber Slicers Paste Boards.. o Closet Brushes. Polishing Paste.. per b...\ o '.

Dinner Mat<. set Putty Powder.. per pkt.

o Drinking Horns.. „ o Rolling Pins... Drum Sieves.. „ o Sieves (Hair, Wire, etc.) o Door Mats... Dusting Brushes.. „ o o Sponges.... Soap Boxes. o Q, 1 liners o Sink Brushes __ o Finery Powder.. per pkt. Scrubbing d« >. Fine Brushes.. Iran o !• ' Furniture do... „ O Feather Dusters.. „ Sweeps' Brushes. o I • I )... with jointed pole Towel Rollers.. o Glaze Brushes.. Turks' Heads with Housemaids' Gloves. o "

jointed Poles. -, Flannels.. per vd. b 8 Urn Powder... < • ushes.. from o Vegetable Pressers. Hair Sieves... o Velvet Brushes.. o (, Hair Sieves, double Wooden Spoons. tf o bottoms.. „ o ( £7 Q £5 \

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CHAPTER V A Guide for Choosing and Buying Provisions and Home Requisites. With full Information about the Prices and Seasons of Fish, Meat, Poultry, Game, Dairy Produce, Vegetables, Fruit, Tinned Meats, Groceries, Wines, Spirits, etc.

That these lists may be of real service, neither time nor care has been spared to render them as complete and reliable as possible. They show not only the prices and seasons of all provisions, but when they can be bought at their cheapest and best, points to be studied by all household managers, particularly those who have to provide for large families.

With regard to fish, meat, poultry, game, dairy produce, vegetables and fruit, the prices have been obtained from the principal provincial towns as well as from different parts of London, so as to arrive at the average cost.

In the case of tinned provisions, groceries, etc., they are quoted from various sources, and at the present reduced scale of charges generally adopted by tradesmen and stores throughout the kingdom. Except in the case of early lamb, whicn is always expensive (unless the excellent New Zealand lamb is used), the price of meat varies but little with the season. Lamb and veal are in full season during spring and summer, and are generally preferred in the hot weather to beef and mutton, which are not then considered so good.

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MARKETING GUIDE: BEER i. Round. 2. Aitchbone. 3. Brisket. 4- Tongue. 5- I-eg. 6. Ribs. 7- Sirloin. 8. Buttock: E. Topside or Buttock; F. Silverside or Round. 9. Hind-quarter: A. Leg, B. Buttock, c. Thick Flank, D. Aitchbone.

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PART.

ENGLISH. AMERICAN.

Aitchbone.

During Winter 6^.perlb. ftd. per Ib.

Baron M,, gd.,, Brisket.

M,, $^d.,, 4i«. •• Buttock.

,,, iod. M iod. „ Clod....

,, 4d.,, Flank...

,, $\d.

4d.

Hock...

it $d... — Silver side M gd.,, 8d.

Neck...

,, $d.,. 3^- M Ribs...

,, 8\d.,, 7^d. to $\d.,, Rump (in steaks), is. id. >, lid.,, Shin....

, 3%d. » -~, R\d.,, jd. to 8^.,, Sirloin ( gd.

Bd.

Cheek...

( is. 3d. ea.

— > is. 6d. „ — Kidney.

, iod. per Ib. gd. per Ib.

Tail.'...

t is. gd. ea.

— ' 25. 6d. „ 25. 6d. ea.

Australian and Foreign Meat — Although it is difficult to equal, and impossible to surpass, the best British grown beef and mutton, we have as a nation immensely benefited by the enormous and ever-increasing imports of meat from America, Australia and New Zealand. The large supplies of beef which reach us from the river La Plata and elsewhere have undoubtedly kept down prices, so that meat is no longer a luxury except among the poor. Much of the beef from South and North America reaches us alive, but it is not of this phase of the trade that we need speak. The great development arose when it was found that cattle and sheep could be slaughtered and dressed on the other side of the ocean, then packed close together in freezing chambers on board ship, and so imported here. Actual freezing, many contend, injures the quality of meat, and certainly if the meat is heated carelessly on arrival it quickly deteriorates. As a matter of fact, however, most meat is now " chilled," that is packed in chambers in which the air is made cold, but is not suffered to reach freezing point. Moreover, it is packed in loose-woven cloth wrappers, and on arrival in England is removed to cold storage chambers, and gradually exposed to higher temperature before it is put on the market. When carefully treated, mutton and lamb are none the worse for the long chilly voyage. Beef, however, is apt to lose somewhat of its natural firmness and elasticity; it therefore requires to be carefully stored, and, when cooked, should be subjected for some minutes to very high temperature, which should be subsequently lowered, otherwise the albuminous constitutents will soon drain out in the gravy, leaving the mass of meat stringy, ta^t

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and not very nourishing. Imported killed meat cannot safely be kept long except in winter, unless hung in a refrigerator. The housewife who takes special pride in her roast beef, had better buy English joints, using the imported meat for stews and " made dishes." PART.

Cutlet.. Feb. to Nov. In Summer. Sd. per IS. 2d. Ib.

Fillet.. IS.

Knuckle 6d.

S%d.

S$d.

Head.. 55. each. t Qd. each. Sweetbread. • from is. each. PART.

ENGLISH. NEW ZEAL'D. Breast. \n'*f.1 Sept. to April. Haunch. >t lt lod.

— Leg.... tt tt 9U.

6±d.

, tt gU.

SU.

Neck (best end). „ 9d.

s&.

Neck (Scrag end),,, 6d.

4d.

Saddle... ( tt lod.

6d.

Shoulder.-.,>• -;*li t ij Sd.

6d.

Head f.-» {VJ1f. t >t 6d. each. — ',,, 3^. to ^d.ea,. — Kidney. ».,,, $\d. each. id. each. Chops '.' i'-"V>: ri±^9'fl "

is. per Ib. PART.

AVERAG E PRICE. NEW ZEAL'D. Mar. to Sept. May to July. yd. per Ib. Fore-quarter,,,, 9d.

7d.

Hind-quarter,,,, nd.

8|rf.

Leg.. tl tt is.

9\d.

t> tt lid.

7\d.

Neck (best end). >t,, lod.

6d.

Neck (Scrag end) tl,, Sd.

S^ It ipd.

Z\d.

Fry (about).. "

Sd. to is,, —

Page 123 See this page in the book

PART.

Hellv...

Sept. to April Nov. to March Hand...

7\d., Fore-loin Sd.

Hind-loin 9*.,, SW., Spare ribs • Sd.

In purchasing Fish it should be remembered that it is generally best when in full season, and the following list will be found useful in ascertaining when it is best and cheapest. To give a satisfactory table of the prices of fish is a difficult and almost impossible task. Many circumstances conspire to make the variations in price greater than in the case of any other food commodity. The fact that lish is a most perishable article of food and is usually caught while travelling in shoals, results in alternate scarcity and over-supply of a particular kind of fish, whilst the question whether the purchaser resides near or far away from a seaside or big distributing town, affects the situation. All we have been able to do is to record fluctuations in prices « period of years, from which the housewife must form her own judgment. In conclusion, we would say that in no branch of marketing is personal attention better repaid, both in quality and economy, than in the buying of fish. The lady who markets herself will select the lish that «>n the day <»f lu r \ isit is plentiful, consequently cheapest and often ! NAMI BEST & CHEAPEST. Avi KA..I PRICE. Bloaters... Sept. to April. Sept. to Feb.

to is. (><l. doz. Brill •Ml the year \u(' to *\i)i*il (x/ to is VHT It* Cod....

Nov. to March. Feb. to March. Crabs....

April to October 3<f. to 35. each. Kels....

June to March. to Nov..

6d. to is. per IK Haddocks August to Feb.. 3</. to 15. 3</. each. Nov. to June 4d. to lod. per Ib. Herri iH-.s.

Mav to January June to Sept.

6d. to 15. 6d. doz. Lobsters.

A ll't he year. '. Summer (xl. to 35. each. M.u kerel Mullet (red N earl vail the year April to July April to October 3rf. to Sd. c to is. 2iL j>er Ib. Ovs1rl> Sept. to April. to IS. per doz. Plai«-...

Mav to Nov.

Prawns Mav to Dec.

Mav to Nov.

15. to 25. per pint. Feb. to Sept.

Spring.N: Summer lod. to 35. per Ib. Shrimps.

April to Nov.

3<f. to t<tl. per pint. Smelts...

< Htober tO \\ inter.

15. to 25. 6d. per box

Page 124 See this page in the book

FISH (continued).

NAME OF FISH.

BEST& CHEAPEST.

April to July 15 to 25 per Ib Sprats Trout Turbot.

Whitebait Nov. to March.

Feb. to Sept...

Jan. to Sept...

Nov. and Dec..

April to July Spring & Summer Feb. to May Spring & Summer Sd. to 25. per Ib.

15. to 25. per qt The cost of poultry varies considerably, being affected both by the season of the year and the district in which it is purchased. It is well to remember that poultry almost invariably rises in price at Christmas, and also tends to be expensive when no game is on the market. These considerations borne in mind, the table below will give a reliable average of prices.

BEST & CHEAPEST.

Chickens.

Feb. to October July to October Ducklings Feb. to August. May to July. 25. 6d. to 35. 6d. ea. Ducks...

August to Feb.. Sept. and Oct.. 35. to 45. each.

Fowls June to October Geese..'• v Sept. to Feb. 65. to 105. each.

Green Geese.

May to August.

June..

65. to 105. each.

Guinea Fowl.

Feb. to August. Summer,'.-. 35. to 45. each.

Pigeons.

August to April Winter. *.. gd to 15. each.

,, (Bordeaux) All the year 15. tO 15. 4d.

Rabbits...

October to Feb.

(Ostend) All the year October to Feb.

jd. and 8d. per Ib.

Turkeys.

Oct. to March Nov. to January 105 to £i each.

Wheat'ears...

Sept. to March. Sept. and Oct.. 15. each.

Game varies very much in price, being generally very expensive on the first day or two of the season, whilst on the other hand, any one watching the market may sometimes buy it more cheaply than ordinary poultry at any subsequent period of the season. In this variable climate no hard and fast rule can be laid down for the keeping of Game before it is cooked. In all cases it requires hanging; but while in winter it is safe to buy birds that have been shot some time, in damp or warm weather no such risk should be run,

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GAME (continued). _ BEST & CHEAPEST. 1 AVERAGE PRICE. Blackcock.. Ducks (wild) Grouse Hares Partridges Pheasants Plovers Ptarmigan Quail Aug. to Nov. Oct. to Sept. August to Nov. Sept. to March. Sept. to Feb. Sept. to April Sept to Feb. Nov. and Dec.. Wrinter... 25. 6d. to 35. 6d. b'e. 2s. to 35. brace. 35. 6d. to 55. brace. 35. 6d. to 55. each. 35. to 55. brace. 65. to 105. brace. 25. 6d. to 35. brace. 15. to 25. per Ib. 35. 6d. to 55. brace. Snipes Teal....

Widgeon.

Woodcock Sept. to Jan. VEGETABLES AND FRUIT. Vegetables and fruits vary greatly in price according to the abundance or scarcity of the supplies. Our table gives the average prices which would have to be paid at the various seasons of an average year. NAME.

BEST & CHEAPEST. Artichokes Jan. to April Jerusalem.

Oct. to March. December.

Feb. to July April and May. 25. 6d. to 55. per 100 Beans (French). May to November. Summer. 3d. to 15. per Ib. (Broad).

July and Aug.. 6d. to od. per peck. (Runners).

July to Oct... Aug. and Sept.. Beetroot.

Broccoli.

•f Sprouts.

Nov. to May. April...

Brussels Sept. to March. Cabbages Spring and Smr. Carrots Early Smr& Atm 4d. to 6d. bunch. Cauliflowers. Sept. to March. December id. to 4d. per hd. Horseradish. id. to 2d. per stick Leeks...

3d. to 6d. bundle. Lettuce M Onions Summer and Atm. Parsnips.

Oct. to April. Feb. and March. Peas....

June to Sept.. July and Aug.. 4d. to 25. per pck. Potatoes.

Id. to id. per Ib. New March to Aug.. June and July. id. to Sd. per Ib. Radishes.

April to Nov.. June to Aug. id. to 2d. per bch. Seakale Nov. to May Feb. and March. id. to 25. 6d. bskt. Savoys Nov. to March. Dec. and Jan.. Vegetable Marru July to Oct. "Vatercress Ml the year. Spring and Smr. id. per bunch.

Page 126 See this page in the book

NAME.

BEST & CHEAPEST.

Apples Oct. to Dec..

Apricots.

June to Sept..

is.6d. to 3s.6d.do.

Bullaces.

2d. to 3^. per Ib.

June to Aug.

July...

Currants.

July to Sept..

Damsons.

Fififs 2s. to 35. per doz.

Gooseberries.

July to Sept.

4d. to Sd. per qt.

May to July.

June 2d. to 6d. per qt.

Grapes (Foreign).

4d. to is. per Ib.

„ (Hothouse) Sept. to Nov..

is. and upwards.

Greengages Aug. and Sept..

Medlars Oct. to Jan...

Melons June to Nov..

gd. to 55. each.

Nectarines 2s. to 6s. per doz.

Oranges.

From ^d. per doz.

Peaches.

45. to 8s. per doz.

Pears ''V Oct. to March.

Plums. " "•-.""

Aug. to Oct..

Quinces. vs*^ 2s. to 35. per doz.

Jan. to May.

March and April 4d. to Sd. bundle.

Strawberries June to Sept..

July...

4d. to is. per Ib.

Dried Vegetables and Fruits. — We have long known such dried fruits as raisins and currants, prunes, dates and figs, and pippins. These useful pudding and dessert fruits are now more abundant than ever, and as a rule prices are moderate. Within recent years other fruits have been added to the list, and we now have dried apple rings, apricots, etc. These apple rings and apricots reach us chiefly from America and Australia, where they are dried in large quantities in specially constructed ovens. They are used for pies and tarts, or may be served stewed. Before cooking, place the required quantity of dried fruit in a colander, and allow tepid water to run over them in order to remove dust. Then place in a bowl and cover with water and allow to soak. When soft, place in an enamelled pan and stew gently, adding more water if desired. If intended for a pie, stew for a quarter of an hour, then place in piedish, add sugar, place crust on, and bake. If to be used as a compote, only add the sugar a few minutes before removing from the fire. If sugar is added too soon, it is apt to turn to caramel and harden the fruit.

Recently vegetables in great variety have been treated by the desiccating process, that is, cut in pieces, and exposed to a more or less quick heat, to remove the water. The vegetables are afterwards packed loosely or compressed. They retain their colour and flavour, and only require soaking before being cooked. These dried vegetables are chiefly to be recommended for use on board ship, for travellers, or for the store cupboards of housewives. Unquestionably fresh vegetables are to be preferred, whenever obtainable.

Page 127 See this page in the book

SHEEP.

i. Welsh Mountain Ram. 2. Hampshire Ram.

Page 129 See this page in the book

DAIRY PRODUCE, HAM, BACON, ETC. Dairy produce varies somewhat in price in accordance with locality, but the differences are not so great of late years, the increased railway facilities having brought about a greater uniformity of price. DAIRY PRODUCE. Cheese (contd.) — Fresh....

is. to is. 4</. per Ib. Gruyere from icw/: per Ib. English, Normandy Stilton. „ is. to is. 6d. per Ib. or Brittany is. per Ib.

lod. to is. 2d. Ib. Hens' » \ 8d. to as. per do/. Margarine.

dd. to 8d. per Ib. Ducks' »,,'• is. to 2$.

Geese 35. to 45. „ 6d. to M. per Ib. Guinea Fowls' IS. to 2S. j»/ Cheddar jod. per Ib.

Plovers' 3S. tO 5S-,Wr Cheshire g{d. to is. per Ib. Turkeys', 3s. to 45. „ i 3</. to is. each. 4d. per qt.

Dutch 7d. to ad. per Ib. „ Separated 2<*. „ Gorgonzola from gd. per Ib. • is. to 35. per pint. BACON, HAM, ETC. The cheaper parts of bacon vary from $d. to f)d. per Ib.. but by reason of the quantity of bone contained in them they are not in reality more economical than the best. ARTH i i.

ARTH i i.

Baron (best part). Ham — AiiHTic.m !•></. to is. per Ib. Si/, t.) IS.

7ld. ti).,i</... I 'am (contd.)— Canadian. » Pickled Pork -:t>s.

7d to orf. per Ib. 7c/. to io</. „ Ki/.

S,/. to is. ^, • PROVISIONS AND HOUSEHOLD REQUISITES. For groceries, tinned provisions, jams, biscuits and other household sites, the prices quoted will be found a fair average of those charged by the principal provision dealers and grocers in London and hief provincial towns. Tinned meats, soups, fish, poultry, fruit and vegetables now occupy an important place in our food supply, being available at any time, and handy substitutes when fresh provisions are difficult to procure. In the respective chapters will be found recipes giving full tions for their use.

Page 130 See this page in the book

9o GROCERY.

Fruit (continued) — Almonds — J ordan is. to 2s. 6d. per Ib. Greengages.

Valencia is. to 2s. 6d. per Ib. Chinois Baking powder Crystallized — Beef Essence — (Brand's)..

Pears...

(Mason's)..

g\d. per bot.

Angelica.

is. id. per Ib. (Liebig's).. 2S. 3d. per J Ib. Figs....

Beef Tea in skins. 5s. to 6s. per Ib. Flour— Best Whites from i id. 7 Ib. bag. Blancmange Pwdr. 6d. per box.

Self-raising. is. lod. 12 Ib. bag. Capers....

5d. per £ Ib. bottle. Whole Meal i id. 7 Ib. bag. Candied peel — Gelatine.... 3|d. per pkt.

Ground.

Citron Crystallized. is. id. per Ib. Mixed..

5d. per Ib. in jar. Chicory Golden syrup.

is. per 4 Ib. tin. lod. per Ib.

Herbs....

5d. per bot.

Best do..

nd. per tin.

Isinglass. y •'•••« 5d. per pkt.

Milk paste.

i id. per tin. Mustard. <; * is. 4d. i Ib. tin. Cocoa....

Prunes from is. 6d. per Ib. Pudding powder. 6d. per pkt.

Nibs...

Raisins — Coco3.tin.cL * • is. 7 id. per \ Ib. tin. Valencia..

Sultanas..

Whole, or ground from is. to 2s. per Ib. Muscatels 8d. to is. 4d. per Ib. East-India.. Spices, various. 4 id. per tin. Mocha is. gd. per Ib. Sugar — Demerara Coffee and Milk. io|d. per tin. Loaf....

Currants TeaCustard powder. 4 Id. per tin. Congou.

Curry powder. is. 6d. per Ib. bot. Ceylon.,,,.,_ is. 6d. to 35. per Ib. is. 2d. per £ pt. jar. Orange Pekoe. Egg powder 6d. per pkt.

Gunpowder.

Fruit — Dried Assam Pekoe.

Apricots. '. Oolong..

Lunettes Young Hyson.

Melon...

Consolidated Mixed..,?-| is. 4d. per Ib. Yeast-Powder 4d. per t:.n.

Preserved and Tinned Provisions. — The preservation of meat and other foods by pickling, salting and smoking has been in use since early times in many lands. The primitive methods of exposing slabs of meat, or split-open fish and fowls, to the fierce rays of the sun, or to the action of smoke, have been improved upon. A large choice of smoked hams and bacon (the pork having undergone some process of " curing " before the actual smoke exposure) is now afforded, and other dried foods usually found in the market are smoked tongues, smoked and salted herrings, mackerel, salmon, eels, turtle, etc., smoked breasts of geese and sausages. Of much more recent origin are the methods of preserving foods in bottles and tins. This system is due to a Parisian, named Appert. He placed meats, vegetables and fruits in bottles, brought them to the boil, and hermetically sealed the openings. It is true that before his day, it had been the custom to put foods in vases with or without water and.

Page 131 See this page in the book

vinegar, and pour on an air impervious seal of oil. But Appert's system was a great step in advance, and gave rise to the enormous trade in tinned and bottled foods. For years the system was chiefly applied to the preserving of expensive delicacies, but it was ultimately adopted in Australia and America for the packing of cheap foods, such as beef and mutton, and afterwards rabbits, soups, salmon and lobster. In the early stages, Australian meat was partly roasted, then packed in tins which were boiled in a water bath, or by steam, and then sealed down. Though the meat was cheap, it was somewhat overcooked, and therefore neither tasty nor nourishing. Improvements have been steadily produced, and now the meat, fowl, and fish imported from abroad in tins is usually excellent. Some precaution should be taken. The food remains wholesome so long as the tins remain air-tight, but if air gets in, decomposition soon follows. It is therefore necessary to see that the tins are perfect and air- tight. Tins should not be bulged; the tops and bottoms should be concave, and have the appearance of depressions. They should be free from rust. Bulged and rusty tins should be rejected, and so ought those which emit a rush of air on being opened. As soon as a tin is opened the whole contents should be turned out. Fish should be eaten (or at all events cooked) the same day it is opened. This does not apply to sardines and other kinds preserved in oil, afthough even these had better be placed in glass or earthenware dishes. Tinned vegetables and fruits soon deteriorate when opened if left in the tins. As a rule, foods preserved in earthenware and glass are better and safer, though rather more expensive than those sold in tin cans. Tinned and bottled fruits should be stored in a cool, dry cupboard. Tinned sardines, bottled anchovies and anchovy paste ought always to be kept in store, as they are useful in preparing many dishes. TINNED PROVISIONS, JAMS, etc.

Cherries in Brandy 15. yd. per half bot. Haddocks, BlanchCake, Various.

in _(/. each.

flower.

io</. per tin.

Fruit in Tins — Herrings Poaches..

lod. per tin.

Honey....

nd. per jar.

5±d. to nA</. per tin.

JamsPears...

gd. to is.'bd 5<f. per Ib. jar.

Apricots.

Bottled Plums Cranberries.

Sd. to 15. 4<*. „ „ 6J<*. per bottle.

8U. per bottle.

Raspberry and (>(/. per Ib. jar.

$d. per Ib. jar.

Gooseberries 6Jrf. per bottle.

Currant 5|rf. per Ib jar.

Black Currants Red Currants lid. per bottle.

Greengage..

5</. per Ib. jar.

6d. per Ib. jar.

lod. per bottle.

5</. per Ib. jar.

-a^es.

Raspberries and gd. per bottle.

Plum....

; 'T Ib. jar.

4<V. per Ib. jar.

Currants.

15. per bottle.

Page 132 See this page in the book

TINNED PROVISIONS, JAMS, ETC. (continued}— JelliesMeats, etc. (contd.) — \d. per £ Ib. pot. Lunch Ham is. id. per i fib. tin. 4d per J Ib. pot. Minced Collops. 9 Id. per 2 Ib. tin. Calf's Foot.. is. 6d. per qt. bot. Minced Steak. g\d. per 2 Ib. tin. Orange. 'V *i is. 6d. per qt. bot. Mutton Cutlets Lemon..,,, t-. i. is. 6d. per qt. bot. with Tomato Madeira.

2s. per qt. bot. is. gd. per tin. Aspic.

is. 6d. per qt. bot. Mutton, Roast. lod. per tin. Mutton, Boiled. 4d. per Ib. jar. Ox Tongues. 2s. gd. per tin. Meats, Game and Ox Tails (solid). g\d. per 2 Ib. tin. Pheasant, Roast, Ham and Chicken is. 4d. small tin. whole, in Jelly 4S. 6d. per tin. Turkey and Ptarmigan.

is. gd. per tin. is. 4d. small tin. Pic-nic Pie. Ham, Chicken, Rabbit, excellent and Tongue is. 4d. small tin. quality gd. per tin. Beef, Ham and Rabbit, finest 2S. large tin. quality io£d. per tin. Veal, Ham and Rabbit, Curried. io|d. per 2 Ib. tin 2S. large tin. Stewed Kidney Chicken and and Mushroom is. gd. per tin. 2S. i|d. large tin. Turkey and Chicken and n|d. per tin. Ham.

2S. i|d. large tin. Turkey, — Roast. Chicken, Ham Turkey, Boneand Tongue. 2S. i £d. large tin. less...

1 1 £d. per \ Ib. tin. Turkey and Tete de Veau (en Tongue ^r;>4Veal and Ham. 2S. \\d. large tin. 2S. \\d. large tin. Tortue)..

Veal and Ham is. sd. per tin. Pork and Rabbit (half - circle Beef, Boiled or tin)...

is. io£d. per tin. is. 2d. per tiu. Veal Cutlets with Chicken, Roast, Tomato Sauce is. gd. per tin. whole, in ielly. 3s. 3d. per tin. Veal Loaf.. 9 id. per tin. Chicken (Poulet de Bresse) 2S. 6d. per tin. Anglo-Swiss. 5 id. per tin. Half Roast Fowl and Sausage. 2S. per tin. Chicken and Tongue (half Spanish.

circle tin). is. lojd. per tin. 6id. per tin. Chicken, Spring Plum Pudding is. lod. per Ib. tin. (one bird in tin) Potted Meats — Chicken, Roast. is. 3d. per i£lb. tin. Chicken, Boneless 1 1 \d. per | Ib. tin. Bloater'... Duck, Boneless. nfd. per 1 Ib. tin. Ham — Tongue. Calf's Head and Strasbourg Meats — Camp Pie Pate de foie gras 2S. 6d. per jar. Game Pie T u £T£ccl H<irc is Sd per tin. Lambs' Sweetbreads with Sardines (Peneau). Tomato Sauce (Philipee and Larks, Roast, 6 Canaud)..

2s. gd. per tin. 6d. to 2S. per tin.

Page 133 See this page in the book

TINNED PROVISIONS, JAMS, ETC. (continued) — Turtle (Brand's) Ox Tail, Mock Turtle, Hare, is. $d. per qt. tin. S tups (contd.) — Gravy, Vegetable Green Pea.

Mutton Broth. Truffles yd. per qt. tin. is. Sd. J bottle. gatawny. Gravy, and Giblet Soups (Crosse & Blackwell, and Lazenby) — Game — Hare Mock Turtle, Ox Tail...

Giblet. Mulligatawny.

Julienne.

From is. per qt. tin. is. 6d. per qt. tin. is. 4d. per qt. tin. Artichokes. French Beans. Green Peas. Haricots, Verts. Macedoine Mushrooms.

is. 4\d. per l>ot. is. per tin. gd. per tin. is. per tin. io(/. per qt. tin. io\d. per qt. tin. 4</. to (>(/. per tin. \(,E PRICE.

AVERAGE rim i. Aberucthy... Ginger Nuts.. 6rf. per Ib. Almond Rings (></. per 11). Ice Creams.. is. Sd. per Ib. >ot.

Jam Fingers. s,/. per Ib. Arrowroot (thin). Hath....

Kindergarten. Lunch....

From 3d. per Ib. Breakfast.

n</. per Ib. Marie....

r Ib.

Buttt-r Cream. •r Ib.

Maitrc d'Hotel. From is. per Ib. Butter Finders Butter Nuts (>\ji. per Ib. v/. per Ib.

From (.</. per Ib. Cinderella. From (•</. per Ib. Captain S./. per Ib. ikes...

s</. per Ib. Olive....

I0$</. per 11). ]o</. per Ib. Osborne.

CoKmial K/. per 11). »..-••• «x/. per Ib. Crackm I... r Ib.

Ratafias... I. per Ib.

Cream Cracker. Shortbread From gd. per tin. lod. to is. 3</. per Ib. Tea r Ib.

-live.

o«/. per Ib... Dinner qd. per Ib. Garibaldi - (various). is. 2d. to is. Sd. From h,/. per Ib. Wholemeal.. GRAIN AND PREPARED FOODS. < LE.

AVERAGE I Arrowroot... From s</. to lod. Rice (continued) — Patna.

Barlev.. 2il. PIT Ib. Java..

2\J. per Ib. Corn 'Flour 5</- P«T 11). packet. Carolina.

}j. per 11)... 4</. per Ib. packet. Ground.

zJ. per Ib.

Hotninv. _'(/. per Ib. Sago, Small 2<f. per Ib. Lentil Flour 3</. per Ib. Oatmeal. From 2\,i. per Ib. e.

Semolina.

2\<l. per Ib. 2\ti. j-tr Ib. ur. (x/. per tiiu a 2J. per Ib.

t..

\il. per 11). -;oon.. id. per Ib. Vermicelli.

Page 134 See this page in the book

SAUCES AND PICKLES. fauces — Sauces (continued) — lod. per bottle. Horseradish. 4%d. per pot. Browning for See Mason's O.K. Brand's Ai. Foundation Sauces io£d. per bottle. Italienne, dark. is. gd. 4 oz. bottle. Clarence..-- 1, Espagnole, brown is. gd. 4 oz. bottle. Harvey's yd. per bottle. Allemande, pale. is. gd. 4 oz. bottle. Ketchup PicklesReading (Cock's) lod. per bottle. Cabbage.

8|d. per pint bot. Soy...

Cauliflower. 8 id. per pint bot. Regent... is. per bottle. Onions, Mixed. 8 id. per pint bot. Worcester Walnuts... ! 8|d. per pint bot. Yorkshire Relish 4\d. and gd. per bot. Piccalilli... 8 Id. per pint bot. Edward's Gherkins.. j 8|d. per pint bot. Mushroom KetMangoes.

8£d. per pint bot. chup.. % '..; 5d. per bottle. Chutnee.

is. per bottle. Bengal Chutney. 15. per bottle. Mango is. per bottle. Curry Indian Relish. is. 6d. per jar. HOUSEHOLD REQUISITES. Bath Brick;.J^1 id. each. Nugget. 4.-.•«• 4\d. and gd. per bot. Beeswax.. » is. gd. per Ib. Pepper— Whole. Blacking...4 3d. doz. skins. Ground.

Ebonite... gd. per bottle. Blacklead... 6d. per packet. Nepaul.

4d. to is. per bottle. Blue. j lod. per Ib. Plate Powder.. 6d. per box. Brunswick Black. yd. per bottle. Polishing Paste. 6d. per pot. Candles, Composite 35. 6d. 6 Ib. Stearine.. • I 3». gd. 6 Ib. Cerebos Rock Wax.. 3s. gd. 6 Ib. Soap, Yellow (Kt.) Dyes....

Soft (Knight). io£d. 3$-lb. tin. Gold Paint.. lold. per bottle. Cold Water.. Essences (flavouring); from 3d. per bottle. Carbolic.

Furniture Polish. 6d. per pot. Hudson's Extract 4d. per packet. Toilet.... id. to 6d. per tablet. Knife Powder. 4\d. per packet. Soda....

\\d. per packet. Starch— Glenfield 5 id. per Ib. Metal Polishing Pdr. 3d. per box. Col man's Night Lights.. 45. doz. boxes. 1\d. per quart.

Page 135 See this page in the book

WINES, SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS. In the following lists the prices are averaged from those of several good firms of Wine Merchants, both in London and the chief provincial towns. Prices vary very considerably according to the age of the wine and vintage years. WINES.

Australian Wines (Red) — Burgundy. from igs. per doz. bots. Cabernet. „ 245. per doz. bots Chablis.,, igs. per doz. bots. Australian Wines (White) — Riesling.. from 225. per doz. bots. Muscat..,, 3os. per doz. bots. Bordeaux (White) — Sauterne.. from 255. per doz. bots. imdy (Red) — Burgundy. from i8s. per doz. bots. Beaune.. „ 24$. per do/ Chambertin. „ 6os. per doz. bots. California Wines — Burgundy. from 195. per doz. bots. Claret.. „ 175. per do/. Sauterne.. „ 255. per do/ Hock Riesing „ 195. per doz. bots. Champagne — Bollinger & Co. from 825. per doz. bots. & G 7os. per doz. bots.

8os. per doz. bots.

90s. per doz. bots.

„ 78s. per doz. bots.

„ 66s. per doz. bots.

„ 875. per doz. bots.

„ 845. per doz. bots.

„ 1565. per doz. bots.

[as. per doz. bots.

„ 1 8s. per doz. bots.

js. per doz. bots.

I! Claret (continued) — Chateau Laftte from 4005. per doz. bots. Chateau Cos SQS. per doz. bots.

dennann.

Duminv & Co.

H.-idsieck&Co.

Laurent- Perrier.

t & Chandon.

(I. H. Mumm &Co...

Piper- Heidsieck..ruery & C.n-no.

t— Ordinary.

Chateau Margaux..

Chateau Cos d'Estournel Hock— Niersteiner Johannisberg.

Marcobrunner Rudesheimer.

Italian Wine— Egidio Vital!

Chianti, nary Ordifrom 245. per doz. bots. „ 1 26s. per doz. hots.

,, 565. per do/,, 30$. per doz. bots.

from 66s. per doz. bots.,, 2is. 6d. per doz bots. Tarragona Port. „ izs. per doz. bots. Madeira — Dinner Wine. from 325. to 68s. per doz. Marsala— [botsi.. fromigs. 6J. per doz. bots. Moselle— Berncastler Doctor A uslese from 6os. per doz. bots. Port..,,i8s.toi44s.perdoz.bots. Vintage Wine;— Tuke's, 1802. from 66s. per d.>/. bots. I, 1885. „ 705. per doz. bots. man's. iSt>s,, 1445. per do. Sherry — Pale.... from 1 8s. per doz. bots Golden... „ 20$. per doz. bots. Superior Golden „ 485. per doz. IK >ts. Montilla..,. 66s. per doz. bot i. British WinesOrange... from 145. per do/:...,, 145. per d<»/. 1). its..... „ I4S. per do/;p... „ I4S. per do/... „ 75. per do/. l»..i.,. SPIRITS.

Iv. from 4os. to 20os. per doz. bots. !| Rum.,, 28s. to 385. per doz. bots. I Whiskey. from 35$. to 43$. per doz. bots. „ 375. to 66s. per do/ 3Oi. to 555. 6d. per <; i mtli. „ 305. per doz. bots.

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LIQUEURS.

Liqueurs — Absinthe.

from 6s. per bot. Liqueurs (continued) — Kirschwasser. from 55. 6d. per bot. Anisette.

' „ 55. per bot. Kiimmel. 45. %d. per bot. Benedictine.

„ 75. per bot.

Maraschino.. 45. gd. per bot. Creme de Menthe „ 5$. 6d. per bot. Vermouth.. 2s. 6d. per bot. Chartreuse (yelEnglish Liqueurs — low)...

„ 95. per bot!

Cherry Brand v. from 35. 6d. per bot. C hartreuse „ us. Sd. per bot. Ginger Brandy 3$. 6d. per bot. Orange Brandy 35. 6d. per bot. Curacoa (sweet Milk Punch. 35. 6d. per bot. or dry).

„ 55. gd. per bot. ALES AND STOUT. Dinner Ale 2s. 6d. per doz. bots. Bitter Ale... us. 6d. per 9 gals. Stout.... 2S. 6d. per doz. bots. Stout in Cask..145. per 9 gals. Pale Ale..-; 8s. 6d. per 9 gals. Porter in Cask.. 95. per 9 gals. MINERAL WATERS AND BEVERAGES. Soda Water.._, is. ^d. per doz. Bitters — Lemonade '.'•' \u is. 6d. Angostura.

45. 6d. per bot. Ginger Beer.- *; is. 6d.

Hop....

2s. 6d.

Ginger Ale •V1 •*£*• is. 6d. Khoosh...

25. 6d.

Potass....

is. 6d.

2S. 6d.

Lithia....

35. gd.

Fruit J uice &Syrups Soda Water (Sch.) as. gd.

Seltzer,.

as. gd.

Orange Juice.

4 W.

Ginger Ale 2s. gd.

Lime Fruit Juice IS.

35. 3d.

Lime Juice Cordl. IS. lid.

Potass 2s. gd.

Syrups, Lemon, Lithia etc....

IS., i Vinegar, Raspberry.

Sid.

• NATURAL MINERAL WATERS. NAME.

PROPERTIES.

PRICE.

Aperient.....

us per doz bottles Apollinaris Buffalo Lithia...;' Carlsbad.....

Table Water... Alkaline Lithiated.. Alkaline Lithiated. 6s. per doz. bottles. 95. per doz. bottles. i2s. per doz. bottles Hunyadi Janos Saline Aperient Table Water, Gaseous I2S. per doz. bottles. 6s. per doz bottles Alkaline Chalybeate us per doz bottles Rosbach Salutaris (Manufactured) Taunus. ' • ' '"•' '.. Table Water... Table Water... Table Water, Gaseous 6s. per doz. bottles. 4s. 6d. per doz. bottles. *5s. per doz. bottles. Vichy (State Springs) Alkaline Acidulated 95. per doz. bottles.

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MARKETING GUIDE: MUTTON.

V ^ i. Hind Ouartcr. 2. Un-a.;t. v Neck. 4. Leg. 5. Saddle. 6. Shoulder. 7- Haunch. 3. Side: A. Leg, B. Loin, c. Best End of Neck, D. L>reust, E. Shoulder, rag. 17 E

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MARKETING GUIDE: PORK AND VEAL.

i. Side of Pork: A. Leg, B. Belly, c. Loin, D. Hand, E. Spare Rib. 3. Loin. 4. Hand and Spring, and Belly. 5. Loin (side view): F. Fore-end, c. Middle Loin, n. Hind Loin. 6. Leg. 2. Neck of Veal. 7. Side of Veal: A. Knuckle, u. HJlet, c. Loin, D. Breast, E. Best End of Neck, F. Shoulder, c. Scrag.

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COMPARATIVE VALUE OF FOOD, WITH ITS PERCENTAGE OF CARBON AND NITROGEN. SHOWING WHAT A SHILLING WILL BUY. A SHILLING WILL BUY BONE.

\\"I:IGHT. CENTGARI l'i K CENT. Nil KOGEN. Rumpsteak 13 oz.

13 oz.

11-00 3-00 Heels teak 16 oz.

16 oz.

,, »» Ribs of beef 2\ OZ.

i Si oz.

1 8 oz.

,, • •: mutton piece. 19 oz.

19 oz.

» • • Shin 30 oz.

30 oz Leg of mutton. 2.\ OZ.

i;\ OCL 1 8 oz.

,, Loin of mutton. 3" "z.

15 oz.

IS o/.

1, • • Neck (best end).. 4 oz.

16 oz.

20 oz.

,, Shoulder (best end). 3 oz.

17 oz.

20 oz.

,, » Veal cutlet... 10 OZ.

12 n/.

,, '• "/..

22 OZ.

I OZ.

7 oz.

S oz.

One- third of a fowl. II OZ.

<; «>/.

20 OZ.

14-, H ) Two-thirds of a rabbit 4 o/.

1 6 oz.

20 OZ.

— — Bacon.... j o/.

19 oz.

21 OZ.

62-58 — — 100 OZ.

30-00 riinse.... — — 24 oz.

4-126 Potatoes.... — — 192 oz.

81-00 0'33 Oatmeal' — — I I 2 OZ. 44-00 Hiri'iit bi-.ui.si. — — "Z.

Hommv1 — — oz.

To arrive al the relative value of various foods, it is absolutely 1: sary to carefully estimate their ditk-rent nutritive qual By this table it will be seen that some expensive foods are really even more costly than they appear at first sight, because of the small proportion of flesh-forming, or nutritive quality they contain. As an instance of this one shilling will buy only 7 ozs. of salmon, containing 2 per cent nitrogen., while the same sum will buy 30 ozs. of shin of beef, containing 3 per cent, nitrogen, or 24 ozs. of cheese, containing 4 per cent.

The heat-giving qualities can be estimated by comparing the large ntage of carbon which such foods as oatmeal and potatoes contain with the small amount which is found in various meats. Thus one shilling will buy 136 oxs. of hominy, containing 40-28 per cent, of carbon, or i<)2 ozs. of potatoes, containing Si per cc-nt., whilst it will only buy 13 ozs. of steak, which contains n per cent, of carbon.; Once, weeklv. remember thy charges to cast, M'.onthly. see how thy expenses may last." — TPSSFR, 1557Artificially dried. Reckon half as much again for the water to be added. E

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CALENDAR OF FOOD IN SEASON The following lists will be found useful in arranging menus, as it can be seen at a glance what Fish, Meat, Vegetables, etc., are in season, but it will be necessary to turn to our price lists to know when all such fresh provisions are cheapest and best. It need hardly be added that tinned and preserved provisions are always to be obtained. JANUARY.

Fish. — Brill, carp, cod, crayfish, eels, flounders, haddocks, halibut, ling, lobsters, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, prawns, scallops, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, tench, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Meat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal, venison. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, pullets, turkeys. Game. — Hares, partridges, pheasants, snipe, wild-fowl, woodcock. Vegetables. — Jerusalem Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers, endive, lettuces, parsnips, potatoes, spinach, turnips.

Fruit.— Apples, bananas, grapes, medlars, nuts, oranges, pears, pines, Spanish nuts.

Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crab, crayfish, eels, flounders, haddocks, halibut, herrings, ling, lobsters, mullet, mussels, oysters, pike, prawns, salmon, scallops, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, sprats, turbot, whitebait, whiting.

Meat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

Poultry. — Capon, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, pullets, turkeys. Game. — Hares, partridges, pheasants (until the I5th), snipes, woodcock, wild fowl.

Vegetables. — Jerusalem Artichokes, beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, carrots, celery, chervil, cresses, cucumbers, endive, lettuce, parsnips, potatoes, savoys, spinach, turnips. Fruit. — Apples, bananas, chestnuts, grapes, medlars, rhubarb, nuts, oranges, pears, pines, peaches, Spanish nuts.

Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, eels, flounders, haddocks, halibut, herring, ling, lobsters, mullet, mussels, oysters, pike, prawns, salmon, scallops, shrimps, skate, smelt, soles, sprats, tench, turbot, whiting, whitebait.

Meat. — Beef, house lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, pigeons, pullets, turkeys, wild-fowl.

Game. — Hares, Guinea fowls. Foreign: black game, ortolans, ptarmigan, quails.

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Vegetables. — Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, chervil, cucumbers, endive, horseradish, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, radishes, spinach, tomatoes, watercress.

Fruit. — Apples, bananas, figs, grapes, medlars, nectarines, oranges, pears, peaches, pines, dried fruits, rhubarb.

APRIL.

Fish. — Bream, brill, crabs, crayfish, dory, flounders, gurnet, haddock, halibut, lobsters, mullet, mussels, oysters, prawns, salmon, scallops, shad, shrimps, skate, smelts, soles, turbot, trout, whitebait, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal.

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons, pullets, rabbits.

Game. — Guinea fowl. Foreign: ortolans, ptarmigan, quails. Vegetables. — Jerusalem artichokes, asparagus, beetroot, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflowers, celery, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, radishes, seakale, spinach, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, watercress. Fruit. — Apples, bananas, figs, grapes, oranges, pines, dried fruits, MAT.

Fish. — Bass, brill, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, hake, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, prawns, salmon, shad, scallops, smelts, soles, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons, pullets, rabbits.

Game. — Guinea fowl. Foreign: ortolans, ptarmigan, quails. Vegetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, cresses, cucumbers, endive, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, peas, potatoes, radishes, seakale, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, watercress.

Fruit.— Apples, bananas, figs, gooseberries (green), grapes, oranges,, pines, dried fruits, rhubarb.

JUNE.

Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, gurnets, halibut, hake, haddock, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, plaice, perch (after isth), prawns, salmon, shad, soles, shrimps, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, buck venison.

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons, pullets, turkey poults.

Game. Guinea fowls. Foreign: Hazel hens, quails.

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Vegetables. — Asparagus, artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbages, carrots, chervil, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, peas, potatoes, radishes, seakale, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, watercress. Fruit. — Apples, bananas, cherries, currants, gooseberries, grapes, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pines, strawberries, rhubarb. JULY.

Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, carp, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, gurnets, haddock, hake, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, perch, plaice, prawns, salmon, shad, shrimps, soles, tench, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, fowls, goslings, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults.

Game. — Quails (foreign).

Vegetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, beans, beetroot, cabbage, carrots, cauliflowers, chervil, cresses, cucumber, endive, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, peas, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, watercress. Fruit. — Apricots, bananas, cherries, currants, figs, gooseberries, grapes, melons, nectarines, oranges, pears, pineapples, plums, raspberries, strawberries.

Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, carp, chub, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddock, hake, halibut, lobsters, mullet, plaice, perch, pike, prawns, salmon, shad, shrimps, soles, tench, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal, buck venison.

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, ducks, fowls, geese, goslings, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults.

Game. — Black game, capercailzie (2oth), grouse (i2th), hares, plovers, woodcock, quails (foreign).

Vegetables. — Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, cresses, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce, peas, potatoes, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows, watercress. Fruit. — Apricots, bananas, cherries, currants, figs, filberts, grapes, greengages, melons, nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums, raspberries, strawberries.

Fish. — Bass, bream, brill, carp, cod, crayfish, dory, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddocks, hake, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, shrimps, soles, trout, turbot, whiting. Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal, buck venison.

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Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkey poults, turkeys.

Game. — Black game, capercailzie, grouse, hares, partridges. Vegetables. — Artichokes, beans, beetroot, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cresses, cucumbers, endive, leeks, lettuce, mushrooms, parsnips, peas, spinach, sprouts, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrows, watercress.

Fruit. — Apples, apricots, bananas, cherries (morella), cob-nuts, damsons, figs, filberts, grapes, melons, medlars, nectarines, oranges, peaches, pears, pines, plums, quinces, walnuts.

Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dory, eels, flounders, gurnet, haddocks, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, musx Is, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch), scallops, shrimps, skute, smelts, tench, turbot, whiting.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal, doc venison. Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkeys, turkey poults.

Game. — Black game, capercailzie, hares, grouse, pheasants, partridges, ptarmigan.

Vegetables. — Artichokes, beetroots, cabbages, carrots, cauliflowers, celery, cucumber, lettuce, mushrooms, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, able marrows, watercress.

Fruit. —Apples, apricots, bananas, ci. damsons, figs, filberts, 5, medlars, melons, nectarines, peaches, pears, pines, qui walnuts.

NOVEMBER.

Fish. — Bream, brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, dory, flounders, eels, gurnet, haddocks, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, m: is, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch), scallops, shrimps, skate, smelts, sprats, soles, tench, turbot, whiting.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, doe venison.

Poultry. -Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, ts, turk'-v-poults, tnrl; Game. -Black ^une, capercailzie, grouse, hares, partridges, pheasants, ptarmigan.

Vegetables. — Artichokes, beetroot, Brussels sprouts, carrots, celery. s, cucumbers, leeks, lettuce, parsnip-, spinach, tomatoes, turnips, turnip t«p,, watercress.

Fruit. Apples, bananas, chestnuts, cranberries, figs, filbert melons, oranges, pears, pines, pomegranates, plums (Calif ornian), wain:.

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DECEMBER.

Fish. — Brill, carp, cod, crabs, crayfish, eels, flounders, gurnets, haddocks, halibut, herrings, lobsters, mackerel, mullet, mussels, oysters, perch, pike, plaice, salmon (Dutch), scallops, shrimps, skate, smelt, sprats, soles, tench, whiting.

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, doe venison.

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, pigeons, pullets, rabbits, turkeys.

Game. — Black game, capercailzie (till 2Oth), grouse (till i8th), hares, partridges, pheasants, ptarmigan.

Vegetables. — Artichokes, Brussel sprouts, broccoli, cabbages, carrots, celery, leeks, parsnips, salsify, savoys, Scotch kale, seakale, spinach, tomatoes, turnip tops, watercress.

Fruit. — Apples, bananas, chestnuts, figs, filberts, grapes, medlars, melons, oranges, pears, pines, plums (Calif ornian), pomegranates, walnuts.

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INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY CHAPTER VI English and French Cookery, The Science and Progress of Cookery, Reasons for Cooking, Methods of Cooking, with instructions for Broiling, Roasting, Baking, Boiling, Stewing, Frying, Hints for Amateur Cooks, The Preservation, Adulteration and Prices of Food, Digestive Time Table, Quantities and Measures, and Table of Equivalents.

In the Fine Arts the progress of mankind is marked by a gradual succession of triumphs over the rude materialities of nature. Plain or rudelycarved stones, tumuli, or mounds of earth, are the monuments by which barbarous tribes denote the events of their history, to be succeeded, in the long course of a series of ages, by beautifully proportioned columns, gracefully sculptured statues, triumphal arches, coins, medals and the higher efforts of the pencil and the pen, as man advances by culture and observation to the perfection of his faculties. So is it with the art of cookery. Man, in his primitive state, lived upon roots and the fruits of the earth, until by degrees he was driven to seek for new means by which his wants might be supplied and enlarged. He then became a hunter and a fisher. As his species increased, greater necessities came upon him, and he gradually abandoned the roving life of the savage for the more stationary pursuits of the herdsmen. These begat still more settled habits, as the result of which he began the practice of agriculture, formed ideas of the rights of property, and had his own both defined and secured. The forest, the stream and the sea were then no longer his only resources for food. He sowed and he reaped, pastured and bred cattle, lived on the cultivated produce of his fields, and revelled in thr luxuries of the dairy; raised flocks for clothing, and assumed, to all intents and purposes, the habits of permanent life and the comfortable condition of a farmer. This was the fourth stage of social progress, up to

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which the useful or mechanical arts had been incidentally developing themselves, when trade and commerce began. Through these various phases, ONLY TO LIVE had been the great object of mankind; but by and by comforts were multiplied, and accumulating riches created new wants. The object, then, was not only TO LIVE, but to live economically, agreeably, tastefully and well. Accordingly, the art of cookery commences; and although the fruits of the earth, the fowls of the air, the beasts of the field, and the fish of the sea, are still the only food of mankind, yet these are so prepared, improved and dressed by skill and ingenuity, that they are the means of immeasurably extending the boundaries of human enjoyment. Everything that is edible and passes under the hands of the cook is more or less changed, and assumes new forms. Hence the immense influence of that functionary upon the happiness of a household.

In the luxurious ages of Grecian antiquity Sicilian cooks were the most esteemed, and received high rewards for their services. Among them, one called Trimalcio was such an adept in his art, that he could impart to common fish both the form and flavour of the most esteemed of the piscatory tribes. A chief cook in the palmy days of Roman extravagance had about £800 a year, and Antony rewarded the one who cooked the supper which pleased Cleopatra with the present of a city. With the fall of the Empire, the culinary art sank into less consideration. In the middle ages cooks laboured to acquire a reputation for their sauces, which they composed of strange combinations, for the sake of novelty.

Excellence in the Art of Cookery as in all other things is only acquired by experience and practice. In proportion, therefore, to the opportunities which a cook has had of these, so will be his excellence in the art.

FRENCH COOKERY.

English V. French Cookery. — It is not easy to treat separately English and French cookery, because, in the first place, by dint of borrowing across the Channel, the two have become inextricably mixed up, as is evidenced by our habitual use of French terms, and by the common, though less constant, use of English terms in French cookery-books; and because, in the second place a good deal of what is distinctive in French cookery is founded on the nature of things, and cannot be transplanted.

Perhaps the difference is greatest in the cooking of meat. We are accused of eating meat raw, and we retort that roast meat out of England is uneatable. The damp climate and the broad pastures, the turnip crops that flourish under our rainy skies, the graziers who for many years have worked to make British cattle and British sheep renowned through the world; these all have made our cookery what

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it is. That good, even excellent meat is to be found out of the British isles none will deny; but the average is infinitely bettor in these isles than anywhere on the Continent of Europe. The consequence is that we have acquired the habit of cooking meat so as to bring out the flavour and not to disguise it, while in other countries experience has taught the cook to disguise it in many a cunning way, The English practice is not invariably wise, for if there is much good meat in the market there is also much bad which would be greatly improved by disguise, and there are also inferior joints on the best animal that lend themselves ill to the national cookery.

Meat Consumed in Paris. — The question has often been asked, " Do we eat more meat than our neighbours ? " Most people would answer the question in the affirmative; but comparisons made between Paris and London by Dr. Letherby seem to show that, the consumption of meat is greater in Paris than in London. His calculations showed in Paris 49 ozs. per head weekly, or 7 ozs. a day per head of the population; the London market returns give 3 1 1 ozs. weekly, or 4^ ozs. a day. Probably the results would be different if the comparison were extended to the country and provincial towns. At any rate, London has a much larger supply of animal food in the shape of fish.

Fish in England and France. — Here, again, art is the handmaiden of nature. The sea supplies us so plentifully that we neglect or disdain fresh-water fish, upon which our neighbours expend much skill and pains in eookery. Very few English people have eaten a carp, though our lakes and ponds contain many; yet in every French cookery-book an to be found recipes showing that carp is intended to be served at dinners of some pretension. Again, the facility with which fish is sent to any part of our country makes us less dependent upon sharp and highly-flavoured sauces. Carp and other freshwater fish affecting muddy spots, should be caught alive and kept for some days in clear, running water, and fed on a little oatmeal or crumbs of bread, in order to get rid of the earthy flavour. Vegetables in England and France. — As for vegetable cookery, in which we must confess ourselves entirely beaten, we easily find a rea-on in the custom of all Catholic countries to fast from meat once a week, which has necessitated the practice of serving vegetables in some way less wasteful and less objectionable than the English methods.

Fuel. —The relative cost of fuel in the two countries has also had much to do in stereotyping the national cookery. Coals have- been cheap and plentiful, and have accordingly luvn used with profusion. It is only in recent years that we have begun to use close stoves; and only a few years ago all our cooking was done over or before the fire. Any one reading a French cookery-book will be struck by the sparing way in which the use of an oven is prescribed. In an English book it is assumed that nothing is so easy as to shut anything in the oven and

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take it out when it is done — and probably the assumption is correct. If we had to do all our cooking with wood we also should become economical; but wood, even in England, does not cost as much as wood costs in many countries, where coals for domestic use are practically unknown.

Count Rumford's action in the matter of stoves was received with some scorn, though he died only in 1814. It used to be said of him that he would cook his dinner by the smoke from his neighbour's chimney. The wasted fuel that escapes as smoke would cook not one but many dinners.

It is a truism to say that France, pressed by circumstances, has accomplished much in the realm of cookery. France has achieved the highest results in luxurious cookery; and to the thrift of her peasantry we must look for the beginnings of the French economy in cookery that has become almost proverbial. Luxury with economy is the highest praise in cookery.

French Names. — In the present edition of this book French names — either the accepted or the literal translation — have been added to many of the dishes. Those of distinct English origin remain as they are. Our readers can now write a menu in either language. THE SCIENCE AND PROGRESS OF COOKERY Cookery and the Artificial Preparation of Food has one chief object, i.e., to assist in the wonderful series of changes known as digestion and assimilation. A secondary aim is to render certain foods, noxious in their natural state, fit for human consumption. The potato and manioc are poisonous when gathered, but rendered harmless by the cook. The object of a journey may be reached by many different, and sometimes by apparently divergent, roads. So it is here. Some even argue that the roads once diverging never become parallel. They declare that the art of cookery, as now understood, only results in the persistent overtaxing, instead of lightening the labours of, the digestive organs. But let us realize what it would mean to go back to pre-cooking days, when our ancestors not only devoured their relatives, but devoured them raw; or to place ourselves in some savage tribe where cookery is in its infancy; or even return to the coarse abundance of our nearer forefathers; and all will agree that the properly trained cook is more friend than foe.

The Art of Cookery. — Within the last few years cookery has made great strides in a totally new direction. The cook has turned philosopher, and loves— '-if not the process of reasoning — at least to be told other people's " reasons why " for the operations of the kitchen. Chemistry is a recent science, and is now in an active state of growth. Every day something is being added to our store of physiological knowledge. The science of food cannot advance a step but by the help of one of

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these. Formerly the art of cookery had little enough to do with either, and flourished long before chemistry and physiology in their modern acceptation were known.

But we cannot accept the common assertion that because cookery long flourished alone it should be left alone now, for the same assertion might be made respecting the application of modern science to any department of human activity.

People lived and died before the law of gravitation, or elementary mathematical truths, or the application of steam to machinery were discovered, yet these discoveries have been applied to practical industries with immense benefit to mankind. Science applied to agriculture has enabled us to support a larger population in greater comfort; science applied to food and cookery will enable us to do this and more. We can confidently look forward to a time when in the chemist's laboratory the transformation of nature's laboratory shall be imitated for the feeding of our starving millions. That goal is a very long way off, and we trace out only the first steps of the road towards it. But as we said at the outset, good cookery must always mean the successful doing or easing in the kitchen of Nature's work.

Everyday Science. — It is interesting to the student of human pr< to watch for scientific discoveries, as they gradually creep from tho laboratory to the treatise, from the treatise to the lecture-room, thence to the kitchen. Each operation was once carried out according to the fancy of the individual operating. Experience, not only the best, but the only teacher, taught. There were a number of isolated experiments, some repeated or handed down until they became traditions. But there was little or no generalization of the facts, and thcr* arbitrary declaration instead of reasonable conviction. In cookery books of a few years ago the reader is bidden to do a thing at one time, and leave it undone on a precisely similar occasion. ite gradations of heat, frimometers, even thermometers, were unknown. Water boiled or simmered, was lukewarm or cold, as if the four words comprehended all the variations of temperature, or at any rate were fixed points having magical effect upon every substance used as food. Only a few — a very few — scientific facts have been as yet applied to everyday cookery. The genealogy of each might probably be traced from the treatise to the lecture, thence to one book, now to all. It is curious also to see that there are some processes in cookery for which every one now assigns a reason, while others, equally common, every one is content to follow unreasoning. It is safe to assert that supporting or condemning all such processes there is scientific fact, and if every intelligent cook would try to find out the reason for what is done, our knowledge would soon emerge from its present chaotic condition.

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REASONS FOR COOKING Food is prepared and cooked for six reasons: (i) To render mastication easy; (2) to facilitate and hasten digestion; (3) to convert certain naturally hurtful substances into nutritious foods; (4) to eliminate harmful foreign elements evolved in food (e.g. the tinea of tapeworm in beef and mutton; trichinae in pork; the ptomaines resulting from tissue waste); (5) to combine the right foods in proper proportions for the needs of the body; (6) to make it agreeable to the palate and pleasing to the eye. It may be said that the last " reason " is in flat contradiction to number two; that is only apparently so. Apart from the purely aesthetic value of an agreeable meal, and a well-spread table (and certainly no one will wish that any pleasure or beauty' should be gratuitously foregone), there remain many solid arguments for reason number six. " The eye does half the eating." The street boy who flattens his nose against the pastrycook's window-pane while his mouth waters at the sight of the good things within; the animal who, before he is killed, is shown food, in order that he may produce pepsine; the starving man whose pangs are even sharper when he smells some one else's good dinner; all are so many witnesses that the sight and smell of food cause the digestive juices to flow more abundantly.

Pleasant flavours are a necessity of diet. No man could be nourished on tasteless food, though arranged on the most approved scientific basis. No man can live healthily on a monotonous diet, though there may be nothing wanting from the point of view of chemical analysis. The health of the inmates of public institutions has over and over again shown noticeable improvement by reason of some change in the dietary, not implying greater expenditure, nor greater nourishment, nor even alteration of constituents. As in all human affairs there are facts to be reckoned with that science cannot foretell or explain. Mastication acts mechanically in subdividing food and so exposing a greater surface to the action of the digestive juices with which it afterwards comes in contact. It acts chemically by reason of the digestive power of saliva on starch. Among animals there are some gramnivora that spend a large part of their time in chewing their food, the flow of saliva being very profuse; there are others, chiefly carnivora, that bolt food whole, and afterwards digest at leisure. Prepared food is more or less divided, so that to some extent mastication is superseded. For the rest, in the kitchen starch is hydrated, fibre softened or made brittle, dough vesiculated, albumen coagulated, and indigestible matter removed.

Any one may perceive how impossible it would be to masticate a mouthful of flour, and how raw meat would clog the teeth. Hurrying over our meals, as we do, we should fare badly if all the grinding and subdividing of human food had to be accomplished by human teeth.

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Action of Heat. — The most important results of cookery are < ascribed to the action of heat upon the various constituents ot tunMany foods that we now cat would become use-less t<> m.mkmd if we had to eat them raw. Cooking may not always alter th.« chcmie.il constitution of a food, but even then it may entirely change it tie \il value to mankind. As a matter of fact, however, heat does alter the chemical nature of a great many foods to a consi<! Uent. Still, even if the change may be nothing that chemical analysis can detect, yet it is perceptible to every one who eats a dinner. There is no greater mistake than to suppose that the chemical analysis of a food tells us its value. Flesh and bones, and fat and heat can be, by some warm-blooded animals, obtained from a diet of grass or woody fibre, but we should starve in the midst of such plenty. Many of the changes wrought by heat arc easily explained. \Vln-t h«-r albumen is barely coagulated or is hard and horny, whether iibre is shrivelled or swelled, whether gelatine is dry and brittle or dissolved it does not take a scientific head to discover. But science tells us wl-y these things are, and so enables us to bring our food readily into whatever state we will.

Given certain food, one cook so manipulates it that the consumer is well nourished and pleased; another cook leaves him hungry and discontented.

Combination of Foods. — In preparing food we must rcmcmbei:nbinc all necessary foods in a right proportion. Some fo<n: deficient in one n -me superabundant in another: a little addition here and there helps digestion and supplies the- body with wh.it it m-<-ds. All cooks do this in obedience to the natural promptm- 9 of the appetite. To rice, rich in starch, they add butter ai with peas, they serve fat bacon; salt-fish has less nourishment than nice; beef steak is balanced by boiled potatoes. Hut the customs of the kitchen often err, and we have much to learn that our artificially stimulated appetites fail to teach. Not only is the deficient supplied, but the indk Bran from flour, paring from potatoes, cellulose from vegetables go to feed animals whose digestions are stronger than ours, and who utilise our discarded food to produce other in a form more fitted to our powers.

Another service that cookery does is to economize our food by:ig it. Part of what we eat is used as fuel or heat-giving food — is burnt or oxidized, to keep the heat of the body at a certain point. Wherever we live and whatever we do, as long as we are in health our body temperature is always 98° Fahr. neither more nor less. \\hen ke cold food some of the heat of the body has to be used to lu at the same reason that when we put fresh coals on the fire- the. raturc of the room is lowered for a time. So we take our warm and use coals to do what our food must otherwise do. There

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no HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT are burners that give a very brilliant light with little gas, because the spare heat of the flame is used to heat the gas that is presently to be burnt. We warm our food on precisely the same principle. Very hot food is always unwholesome, but warm food always goes further and is more nourishing than cold.

Amount of Food. — A day's ration for a healthy man of average size, doing moderate work, has been reckoned as follows: — Oz. AVOIRDUPOIS.

1. Water.. >.' v... 4i 2. Albuminoids..... 3 3. Fats, starch, sugar, etc.. 14 4. Salts....... i For a woman, also working, the rations may be somewhat smaller, the proportions being the same, but the total about 3 oz. less. This seems a small allowance, but when we remember that it is reckoned as dry food, and that food as we get it is always moist, generally containing half or rather more than half its weight of water, it appears that the food altogether should weigh about 40 ozs. The quantity required varies, however, very much within the limits of health. Every man requires more food if he works hard, and less if he has no work to do. Even doing the same work no two men will eat exactly the same, and it is only possible to calculate by taking an average of a large number of eaters. Generally speaking, more food is required in cold weather and cold climates than in hot. But it is necessary that all these four classes of elements should be represented in our daily food, and in something like the above proportion. If we have too little of any one class we are sure to be ill, and if one class were to be quite left out we should die, even though we have plenty of other foods.

As to the water, there is not much to be said in addition to the remarks in the chapter on Beverages. By whatever name we call our beverages, the chief constituent of them is water, and were we given but one food we could exist longer on water alone than upon any other, except milk. In every food, even when artificially dried, there is a percentage of water, and taking foods one with another there is about half water. But the amount varies; in lettuce, 96 per cent, is water; in onions, 91; in lean meat, 75; in wheat, 14. Artificially dried substances are ready to take up water from the atmosphere, a fact of practical interest to the housewife, who will remember that oatmeal, maize-meal, biscuits, and the like, soon become flabby and moist if they are left in the open air. It is generally agreed that animals thrive better on moist food than on dry food with water.

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INTRODUCTION TO COOKERY in Carbonates and Salts include chloride of sodium, or common salt, as well as potash, phosphates of lime, and iron. Common salt is a necessary food, but the fact is that many persons now-a-days get too much of it in the form of salt fish and flesh. It is the only mineral habitually added to food as such. Potash salts we find in all fresh fruits and vegetables. Probably no defect in diet is more common than a want of these, especially in our large towns. Lime is necessary for the building up of bones and teeth. We look for it in milk for the young, and in whole grains, and we know that it has been missing when \ve see weak and distorted limbs and broken teeth. Iron is generally thought of as a physic and not as a food. It is, however, a necessary constituent of the blood, and is chiefly derived in an organized form from fresh vegetables. It is also largely present in many natural tonic waters.

Starch or floury Foods are the cheapest and most abundant of all, so that if people have enough of any food they are likely to have enough of these. Over-fed persons are an exception to this rule, for too small a proportion of their diet is starchy. Bread, potatoes, rice, barley and all the floury foods contain more starch than anything else, and cornflour, arrowroot, sago and tapioca are nearly pure starches. There is much starch too in beans, peas and lentils, though they are generally spoken of as albuminoids, or flesh-forming foods, because of the vi-ry large amount of legumin that they contain. There is no starch in milk, but there is sugar, which replaces it. An infant can make no use of starchy food, having no power to digest it. Heated to 200° or 400° starch becomes dextrine, known too as " British Gum." The crust of a loaf, biscuits and baked flour all show dextrine. Sugar and treacle are good foods and substitutes for starch. They are, however, apt to produce acidity in grown-up persons if used too freely, though children can and do eat large quantities without inconvenience. The fats, starches and sugars are called heat-producers, because they are oxidized or burnt in the body to keep up the temperature to its proper degree. From the starches and sugars fat is deposited, if more is consumed than is required to maintain the heat of the body; therefore, the way to get thin is to eat li'ttle or none of these, or, better still, to take plenty of exercise and let them become completely oxidized. Fat.— Fat, whether it is in the form of butter, cream, dripping, meat, bacon, oil, or by any other name, is necessary for food, and many are the persons that suffer in health from want of it, especially among the poor, who cannot afford the dearer fats, or do not know the cheaper, and among the sickly, who cannot — or fancy they cannot — digest fat in any form. If it can be digested one fat is as good a food as another. Cod- liver oil and cream are the easiest to digest. Fats that are greatly heated decompose, and are always difficult of digestion, which is thr reason why fried food often disagrees. Many persons, who cannot eat a lump of fat with meat hot or cold, can eat buttered toast,

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suet pudding, or lightly fried bacon, or fat in one of the many forms in which it is served.

Fat and starch can replace one another to some extent, but there must be some fat, and it is better in this climate to have some starchy or floury foods. In the coldest countries plants will not grow, and so starch is unknown.

Albuminoids is a term that covers albumen and the food substances which serve the same purpose as albumen. Sometimes they are spoken of as flesh formers, or as nitrogenous foods, because they all contain nitrogen, and neither fats, starches, nor sugars do. Nothing that lives and grows is without nitrogen, and so we find it in large or small amounts in all plants as well as all animals. Our supplies of albuminoids, or flesh-formers, are obtained from lean meat, fish, poultry, game, as milk curd or cheese, eggs, gluten in flour, fibrine in oats, and in beans, peas and lentils. Albumen is found in many other foods besides eggs. The blood of many animals contains it, and we have presently to speak of albumen in meat. In most vegetable juices and in many seeds and nuts we find it also.

Fibrine is also both animal and vegetable. From meat, wheat and other corn grains we obtain our daily supply. Casein is an albumenoid that we find in the curd of milk, and in the pulses, beans, peas and lentils. Vegetable casein is sometimes called legumin, but it was given that name before it was known to be practically the same as animal casein of milk. In China cheese is made of curdled vegetable casein. Gelatine and some substances nearly like it are known as gelatinoids, and they can replace albumen in part, though not altogether.

METHODS OF COOKERY Six Methods of Cookery are commonly spoken of, viz. i. Broiling; 2. Roasting; 3. Baking; 4. Boiling; 5. Stewing; 6. Frying. BROILING Rules for Broiling Meat. — The rules for broiling remain the same always. A hot fire at first, with a hot gridiron well greased. Frequent turning. No holes made in the surface, nor cuts to see if the meat is cooked.

The meat must be turned frequently so that it may be heated and the albumen may coagulate all over and not merely on one side. Tonj are sold to turn it over with, because they cannot be used to stick intc the meat and make holes for the juice to run out, but a knife or spool or a fork run into the fat answers just as well in the hands of a cool who knows the reason why a blunt instrument is recommended. Soi few broiled things should not be turned: a mushroom, for instance, is broiled stalk upwards. The inside of a split fish should first go to the fire, and afterwards the skin. Paper is wrapped round salmon and other fresh- water fish.

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It is not an economical way of cooking, for though quickly done it takes a great deal of fuel to make a good broiling fire. The meat loses weight more than in most ways of cooking. And it is only suited for tender, juicy meat from the best joints.

ROASTING This is the favourite national method of cookery. The immense stone hearths on which huge logs flared up an open chimney were just adapted for this style of cookery, and the open coal fires in almost general use until the middle of the iQth century were almost as prodigal of fuel. To roast before the fire could have become a national custom only where fuel was cheap. We now roast in the oven more often than before the fire, but even so it is not an economical way of cooking, because of the much greater amount of fuel necc to heat the oven than to boil a saucepan. The waste in roasting is also great, from a third to a quarter of the total weight of a joint is lost in the process; only a small part of the loss being recoverable in gravy or dripping. Furthermore, it is a method <>nlv suited to the tender parts of meat, and does not answer at all for sinewy and gelatinous meat which is the least expensive. A; this has to be set the fact that roast meat is agreeable to most persons' taste, and is generally considered digestible. As in broiling, the object is to harden the surface albumen and so to imprison the juices of the meat. This can only be done by making it very hot for a short time: the heat must afterwards !><• lessened by drawing the joint from the fire, or by cooling the mm. Tin- larger the joint the smaller the fire, lest it should In- burnt ouNide betme it is cooked enough, but it should always be hot FIRST, and cool afterwards. In a perfectly roasted joint, the outside albumen should be thoroughly hardened, but inside it should only reach the moderate heat that just coagulates the albumen and swells and softens the fibrine; cooked more than this, the fibre becomes hard, and separates into bundles that offer an active resistance to teeth and dig< organs. It can scarcely happen to a large joint, but often does to a small one, and this is the reason why a small joint is often dry and hard. It is a sign of good meat and of good roasting to lose little in weight. Generally speaking, the loss is more before the fire than in the Count Rumford invented a double dripping-pan that cannot be too strongly recommended. The water in the under pan boils and prevents the fat in the upper pan from becoming hotter than boiller, so that the dripping is neither wasted nor burnt, and there is no horrible odour of fat burning on the floor of the oven. I;ig pans arc- among the few cooking uU nsils that economize their own cost in a very short time.

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BAKING Baking naturally comes next to roasting; the two often do duty for one another. As in all other methods of cookery the surrounding air may be many degrees hotter than boiling water, but the food is not appreciably hotter until it has lost water by evaporation, after which it may readily burn. The hot air of the oven is greedy of water, and evaporation is great, so that ordinary baking (i.e., just to shut the food into a hot-air chamber) is not suited for anything that needs moist heat. But baking often means to put some dry substance in a dish with water and to shut it in the air chamber, and under such circumstances it amounts to much the same as boiling with surface heat added.

To test the heat of an oven special thermometers are made. For meat the temperature should be about 300° Fahr.; for bread 360°, afterwards lowered; for pastry about the same, the richest pastry requiring the hottest oven. The heat may be tested with a sheet of writing paper, which curls up brown in a pastry oven, or with flour, which takes every shade from coffee colour to black, when sprinkled on the floor of the oven. Experienced cooks test very accurately with the hand.

The hot air of the oven sometimes imparts disagreeable flavours to the things cooked; but this can be avoided by keeping the oven scrupulously clean and having it well ventilated. BOILING Boiling is generally thought to be the easiest method of cooking. Certainly nothing could be less troublesome than the simple process boiling or stewing meat, and yet beef tough and flavourless, or a 1( of mutton boiled to rags is the rule rather than the exception, success of this culinary method depends entirely upon the liquid which the material is immersed or partially immersed being kept at suitable temperature.

The temperature of boiling water at sea-level is 212° Fahr. and Cent. In a mine, where the level is considerably lower than th; of the sea, the water reaches a higher temperature before boilii because the air being more dense offers greater resistance to it; coi sequently the water must acquire more heat and force to overcoi this resistance before it can boil. Conversely, as we ascend a mounts we leave behind the more dense part of the atmosphere, and the colui of air, reaching from the earth into space, becomes less in height, so exerts less pressure on the surface of the water, which consequenl boils at a lower temperature. But, whether the water boils gentl] or is in a state of violent ebullition the temperature remains the same and anything immersed in the water will cook at an equal ra1 although there will be a wide difference between the tender juicy joii

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cooked at simmering point and the tough stringy meat that has been quickly boiled. Count Rumford, writing on this subject, said: — " Causing anything to boil violently in any culinary process is very ill-judged; for not only does it not expedite in the smallest degree the process of cooking, but it occasions a most enormous waste of fuel, and by driving away with the steam many of the more volatile and more savoury particles of the ingredients renders the victuals less good and less palatable. Five times as much heat is required to send off in steam any given quantity of water already boiling hot as would be necessary to heat the same quantity of the cold water to the boiling point."

In order to find out the right heat, we must first know which of several substances we have to deal with, and how each one of them is acted upon by heat.

The simplest thing to boil is an egg. The white is little more than albumen and water; the yolk contains albumen and water with some oil and some sulphur, but the albumen is of a rather different character. We have seen that albumen begins to coagulate at 145°, sets into a jelly at 1 60°, and at a higher temperature quickly becomes tough and hard. Eggs should therefore be gently boiled. Some recommend the plan of putting the egg into a saucepan of boiling water, taking the pan off the fire and letting it cook so. Others prefer to put the egg in cold water and to take it off directly it boils. In boiling lean meat we must deal with albumen again. Just as the white of an egg hardens by boiling, so does the albumen in a leg of mutton. Plunge it into boiling water, and on the surface an impervious crust is formed that prevents the juices of the meat from escaping. Once that is done, the boiling should cease, for the toughening of the albumen throughout the joint is as undesirable as the escape of the juices. Boiled meat intended for table should never be put into cold water: firstly, because the surface albumen is dissolved, and afterwards, v, h a the water boils, hardens and rises as scum; also, secondly, because the salts and extractives are dissolved, leaving the meat dry and flavourless. Cold water first and fast boiling afterwards (the common way of cooking) is the worst possible way, for the meat is not only dry, but hard. If the meat is to be boiled for soup the object is to extract all the j uice, the soluble albumen, and as much gelatine as may be, so that it should be cut up to multiply surfaces, put into cold water, and heated slowly to boiling point. To attain contrary ends, contrary means must be used.

The exceptions to this rule, if any, for boiling meat are in the case of sinewy and tcndonous meat where gelatine is abundant. To make it soft and eatable long continued boiling is necessary. Calf's head and veal tendons, cow heel, and tripe are often put into cold water. Flour Foods, such as macaroni, rice, sago, cornflour and flour puddings kept all the time in boiling water, in order to burst the starch

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granules. The mechanical action of fast bubbling water is often useful, partly in preventing grains of rice, etc., from settling to the bottom of the saucepan.

Bailed Fish. — In the case of fish, the water should be kept below bubbling point, otherwise it may crack the skin and so spoil the appearance of the fish; and, on the other hand, if the fish is put into cold water, it, like meat, has much of its goodness and flavour extracted. So a compromise has to be made here, and the best plan is to put it into water as hot as the skin will bear (which varies with each fish), and to put salt with the water, or lemon-juice, or vinegar, because albumen sooner coagulates if acid }s added to it. Vinegar with a poached egg answers the same purpo'se. Vegetables, with few exceptions, should be pot into boiling water.

STEWING Stewing almost invariably requires a heat much below that of boiling water: 165° is about stewing point. Whatever is stewed, parts with much of its goodness to the surrounding liquor, which should not, therefore, be wasted. Less liquid is used than in boiling. It is a method particularly suitable for all gelatinous meat, such as knuckles, heads and feet, and for all tough, fibrous meat, because long-continued, moderate heat, with moisture, is the best way of bringing gelatine and tough fibre into an eatable condition. It is the cheapest method of cooking for several reasons. Little heat is required, therefore little fuel used. Nothing is wasted; whatever goes into the pot comes out. The cheapest and coarsest meat can be used; and very little attention is needed while cooking. In order that all the juices may not be extracted from the meat it is sometimes fried before stewing; this gives it a good colour, and also hardens the surface albumen and prevents the soluble matters from escaping. A stew should not bubble and boil; it should stand by the side of the stove, and should never do more than bubble occasionally and leisurely at one side of a large pan. A jar well tied down and set in a cool oven makes a capital stewing utensil, or a jar set in a saucepan and surrounded by boiling water. One difficulty is that carrots and turnips when they are old and tough ought to be boiled, and so do not agree with a small piece of stewed meat. Cooked together, one must be spoiled. It is the best plan to boil the vegetables first, and then to use them and their liquor for the stew.

A common mistake is to put in too much liquid. The raw meat supplies some liquid by its own juices and many do not sufficiently realize that at the moderate heat of stewing there is very little waste by evaporation.

FRYING Frying has been described as boiling in fat. It is not a correct phrase, because the fat is not boiled, and the thing fried is not always immersed

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in fat. It is the quickest mode of cooking, because melted fat or oil can be brought to a high temperature, and, by contact with it, the food fried is very quickly and very much heated. All fried food is heated beyond boiling water point on its surface; if the frying is prolonged the meat is over heated throughout, so that this method is not fitted for food that should be slowly cooked at a low temperature, such as tough meat.

The point to which fats or oils may be heated varies, some burning much more readily than others. About 350° to 400° is a suitable temperature; it can be higher, it should sometimes be lower for things that need slow cooking, but it is usually better to begin at a high temperature and lower it afterwards. The temperature is always lowered, by putting in the cold things to be cooked, to a degree that is determined by the relative quantity of fat and food, and by the sort of food.

The temperature can be taken accurately with a thermometer constructed specially for the purpose; it can be taken approximately by several homely devices.

1. Drop in a few drops of water. If the fat bubbles thereupon, it must be hotter than 212°; if it bubbles smartly it may be taken at 2. Drop in a piece of bread and take it out at the end of half a minute. If the bread is crisp the fat is about 350° or more. 3. Parsley that becomes crisp immediately it is dropped in mean at 350° or more.

4. The more violent the bubbling when anything is put in the hotter the fat.

5. A thin, filmy, blue smoke rises when the fat is fit for frying..m<l then becomes thicker until the fat is burning, when there is a 4ett0t cloud.

6. Fat, unless it has left off bubbling and is quite still, is never hot enough to fry.

These rules are true of all fat, and more or less of all frying. But there are two ways of frying, known to cooks as DRY FRYING, and frying in deep fat; the later method being also known as '• French frying." The former is more common; the latter is more economical, and produces better results.

Deep frying or frying in a saucepan, means that there must be fat enough to cover what is fried, and a pan deep enough to contain it. It is economical, for the fat can be used over and over again, and, if sufficiently hot, does not soak into the food fried, which consequently comes out quite dry and without any of the greasy moisture of fryingpan cookery. In the long run less fat is used than for ordinary dry frying; though, of course, there is a greater outlay to begin with. An iron or steel saucepan must be used, as the heat of the fat melts the solder of a tin pan; it is a good plan to keep one for the purpose.

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Frying baskets should be used for all delicate frying (see p. 302) so as to do away with the need for much handling, and to lift all the things out at the same moment. Failing a basket, an iron spoon or slice may be used, but not of tin or Britannia metal, as they would melt. Baskets should not be used for fritters, which stick to the wires. As the basket always expands with heat, it should not be a very tight fit for the pan.

Dry Frying is so called because of the small amount of fat used, not because of the dryness of what is fried, for things fried this way are very apt to be greasy. Sometimes the frying is so " dry " that only just fat enough is used to prevent the meat from sticking to the pan, just as the bars of a gridiron are greased. The iron pan is heated, and the meat is cooked by heat directly communicated from the hot iron. Such frying, in fact, is an imitation of broiling, and usually an unsuccessful imitation. There should always be at least enough fat to cover the surface of the pan, and it always should be made as hot as possible without burning, before beginning to fry. To put cold fat and cold pan and cold chop on the stove and let them all heat together is always a mistake sure to result in a greasy, juiceless chop with burnt fat. WHATEVER AND HOWEVER YOU FRY, FIRST HEAT THE FAT. Fat for Frying. — Melted suet or fat can be used for French frying, and mutton is less likely to burn than beef, but either or both together will do. Lard should never be used, for it always leaves an unpleasant flavour and costs more than beef or mutton fat. Oil is to be preferred to, and can, without burning, be made hotter than any fat. Olive oil is often recommended, but it is costly, and much of the oil sold as olive is largely adulterated with cotton-seed oil, which is far cheaper than any fat used as food. Unfortunately, though a great deal is sold, not much is sold under its right name or at a fair price, except to cookshops or to the vendors of fried fish. Many specially prepared fats are now on the market; they vary greatly. Some are merely beef fat, freed from skin and blood, and melted into cakes; these can be used like suet. Others are solidified cotton seed oil, purified nut oil, etc. These are sold plain or as blends. Some of them are excellent for frying purposes, and are economical where much frying is required. Animal fats, with the exception of refined lard, burn quicker than vegetable fats. Butter is the soonest spoilt by high temperatures. To clarify fat or suet for frying, it should be cut up into small pieces, put into a saucepan with just enough water to prevent burning, heated over a slow fire until the liquid fat is quite clear and then strained. The pieces strained out are an economical substitute for suet for short cakes, puddings, etc. After using several times, the fat can be purified by pouring it whilst hot into a pan of water and well stirring; the pieces and impurities settle at the bottom of the cake of fat or sink into the water. The fat should be also occasionally strained when cool; if it be strained directly after frying it will

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melt any soldered strainer. To fry well the food should be dried. Fish can be lightly coated with flour; vegetables well-dried in a cloth. Before dropping into hot fat anything that contains much water lift the pan off the stove, as the fat is likely to bubble over and catch fire. Many things that are fried are previously covered with egg and breadcrumbs, or flour and milk or batter, in order that a crust may be formed round them to keep the juice in and the fat out. The essential thing is to cover them completely and leave no crack. HINTS FOR AMATEUR COOKS.

The two most common faults with amateur cooks are not giving sufficient time and attention to the details of preparation, and ignorance of the varying action of heat. It is admitted that the making of soups and sauces is a test of a good cook. Now, both soups and sauces (with a few exceptions, which prove the rule) require very careful preliminary preparation and close attention during cooking. The time devoted to planning, cleaning, chopping, paring or trussing, as the case may be, is not lost. The actual process of cooking is immensely facilitated, and success half assured, if everything has been properly prepared beforehand.

Then, as regards the utilization of heat; it is essential in boiling and roasting that the temperature should be very high at first, to prevent loss of nutriment, and then be lowered to prevent the meat being scorched and dried. In stewing, however (and this applies to soup making) the heat should be moderate and the cooking slow. Frying in most cases should be done in hot fat, so a deep vessel full of oil or fat at a very high temperature should be used. Omelets, pancakes, and a few other preparations only require to be placed in a pan with a little butter; in such cases the fire should be fairly brisk. When using an oven, if the dish requires long cooking, get up a high temperature at first and then lower it slightly; but pastry requires quick cooking in a fairly brisk oven.

All dishes should be duly flavoured with the necessary condiments during the process of cooking, except in the case of roast meats, \\ hen salt should only be applied just before serving. Water is a solvent, so all meat and vegetables should be plunged into fast boiling water, the object is to extract flavour for making soups. Dried peas and beans, however, should be put on in cold water, as it is necessary to soften them.

Amateur cooks may prepare dainty breakfasts and suppers if they give their attention to the peculiarities of electric heated stewpans, or the still more convenient chafing-dish. The dishes prepared in these vessels are generally of the stew or daube order. For I a fairlv large amount of sauce is allowed, and the cooking should be somewh it moderate; for daubes very little moisture is allowed and the pan must be closely covered, apply high temperature, then lower

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and finish with reduced heat. Gas as well^as electric heat and the spirit lamp can be easily regulated as desired.

For outdoor cooking (picnics and camping) the chafing-dish is useful, but should be supplemented with a tinplate oil cooking stove, which generally provides an oven, hot plate, and ring for kettle or stewpan.

For emergencies a good substitute for cream can be made wTith fresh milk, a little butter and flour.

If milk cannot be procured for tea and coffee, use an egg beaten up to a froth.

If fresh- water fish is caught and has to be cooked, wash thoroughly in clean water; if small, fry; if large, stew with a sauce, in which wine or vinegar and aromatic herbs are used, PRESERVATION OF FOOD.

An important consideration is, how food may be best preserved with a view to its being suitably dressed. More waste is often occasioned by the want of judgment, or necessary care in this particular than by any other cause. In the absence of proper places for keeping provisions, a hanging safe, suspended in any airy situation, is the best substitute. A well-ventilated larder, dry and shady, is better for meat and poultry, which require to be kept for some time; and the utmost skill in the culinary art will not compensate for the want of proper attention to this particular. Though it is advisable that animal.food should be hung up in the open air till its fibres have lost some degree of their toughness, yet, if it is kept till it loses its natural sweetness, its flavour has become deteriorated, and, as a wholesome comestible, it has lost many qualities conducive to health. As soon, therefore, as the slightest trace of putrescence is detected, it has reached its highest degree of tenderness, and should be dressed immediately. During the sultry summer months, it is difficult to procure meat that is not either tough or tainted. It should, therefore, be well examined when it comes in, and if flies have touched it, the part must be cut off, and the remainder well wiped with a clean cloth dipped in warm water and vinegar. In loins of meat, the long pipe which runs in the cavity of the bone should be taken out, as it is apt to taint, as also the kernels of beef. Rumps and aitch-bones of beef, should not be purchased when bruised.

All these things ought to enter into the consideration of every household manager; and great care should be taken that nothing is thrown away, or suffered to be wasted in the kitchen, which might. by proper management, be turned to a good account. The shank bones of mutton, so little esteemed in general, give richness to soups or gravies, if well soaked and bruised before they are added to the boiling liquor.

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Roast beef bones, or shank-bones of ham, make excellent stock for soup.

When the whites of eggs are used for jelly, confee tioiiei y, or other purposes, a pudding or a custard should be made, that the yolks may be used.

All things likely to be wanted should be in readiness: sugars of different sorts; currants washed, picked, and perfectly dry; spices pounded, and kept in very small bottles closely corked, or in canisters, as we have already directed. Not more of these should be purchased at a time than are likely to be used in the course of a month.

Much waste is always prevented by keeping every article in the place best suited to it.

In very cold weather, vegetables touched by the frost should be brought into the kitchen early in the morning and soaked in i old \\ater. ibles keep best on a stone floor, if the air be excluded; nn.it in a cold, dry place; as also salt, sugar, sweetmeats, candles dried meats and hams.

Rice, and all sorts of cereals for pudding, should be i. en-d to preserve them from insects; but even this will not prevent them from being affected by these destroyers, if they arc long and car* kept in a damp place.

J'ears and grapes should be strung, and hung up in:\ c<3ld, dry plaee. Apples should be laid on straw, after being carefully \ and should not touch each other. They keep better on wood than on china.

ADULTERATION.

The Act passed in 1872 for the prevention of Adulteration of Food, Drink and Drugs declares that persons who adulter. of food, or who sell those that they know to have been adultr whether with material injurious to the health or not, are punishable with line or imprisonment. The vendor is bound to declare sm h admixture to the purchaser at the time of the sale. The inspunder the local authorities arc directed to procure samples from time to time, and to submit them to the public analyst. Any purchaser may have any article of food, or drink, or drugs analy/.ed by the public analyst of his district on payment of a sum not less than half-a-crown and not more than half-a-guinea. In olden times the prices of the chief necessaries of life were regulated by authority. Such interference has long been a thing of the Vendors may ask any price they please for the things they sell, and the legislature only insists that no fraud shall be practised on the public, and that goods shall be sold under their rightful names.

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PRICES OF FOOD Every one nowadays will agree that the seller should fix the price at which he will sell his wares. For the prices vary according as the supply of the commodity in question is plentiful and the demand great. An abundant wheat harvest is followed by cheap bread; but we do not all so readily understand, that not bread alone but all perishable articles must be dear one year and cheap another. It may sometimes happen that the fall in price never reaches the consumer, but stops short with the wholesale or retail trader, although this tendency is to some extent counteracted by the competition in retail trade.

Overcharging is most likely to occur where the customers cannot readily transfer their custom to a neighbouring shop, as, for instance, in isolated country places, or when the customers are in debt, or under obligation to the shopkeeper, having perhaps been supported by him during times of scarce work. It is often for these reasons that in the poorest and most wretched neighbourhoods the highest prices rule. Customers are often induced by considerations of fashion or convenience to pay high prices; but they can scarcely be said to be overcharged, since they choose to pay for such costly luxuries as spacious premises, handsome shop-fronts, numerous shop assistants and long credit. Economical people are compelled to go without these and many other things that it is pleasant to have.

DIET But it is not only the weight and the cost that have to be studied for economy's sake. We have already seen that it is possible to starve in the midst of plenty; to starve, that is, for want of one necessary constituent of food, though all the others may be supplied in superabundance. A good housekeeper will, therefore, take care that upon her table is set a variety of well-chosen food, and very often indeed, by the exercise of a little care in dieting, she may prevent the outlay of much care in nursing and of much money in doctors' bills. People suffer from diseases of mal-nutrition much more often through bad management than because of a short purse. It will often be found, especially with children, that they are ill for want of certain kinds of food and yet will not take them in their ordinary form; it is then the part of the housekeeper to reproduce the food so that it is not recognized, or to find the same substance in some other form. COST AND ECONOMY Again, two foods may cost the same and weigh the same, and yet one may be far more economical than the other. For one may be very nourishing, containing a kind of food that is not cheaply to be bought, and it may besides be such that it takes up water and

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increases in weight in the cooking. The other is a moist food, and will lose weight before it comes to table, or it may be starchy food, which can always be bought at a low price, or it may contain bone and waste, which is not properly to be called food at all. One very good contrast is afforded by a pound of rumpsteak at fourteenpence, and a pound of beans or lentils at twopence. Both are bought for the sake of flesh-forming, or nitrogenous, food. From neither is there actual waste to be cut away. But the broiled meat will not weigh more than 12 ozs. when it comes to table, and the pulse will have taken up more than its own weight of water, which costs nothing. We have two pounds of food for twopence against three-quarters of a pound for one and twopence.

This must always be remembered in dealing with all dry foods. One pound of Indian meal weighs when cooked three pounds; half a pound of macaroni increases to two pounds, we are told by Rumford. Comparing rice to flour, if both are the same price, flour is cheaper because it is less starchy, and people who reckon such small economies as these are generally ill-fed, needing flesh-formers, which are chiefly to be found in the costlier foods.

As a third example we may take beefsteak as compared to mutton chops: they are usually about the same price per pound, but there can be no question which is the cheaper of the two, for the beef has no bone and little fat.

DIGESTION Digestion is a complicated process, and, as a rule, a slow one It may be interfered with cither by physical short-comings such as absence of, or bad, teeth, muscular flaccidity, or nervous exhaustion, or by functional derangements causing a deficiency in the quality or quantity of saliva, gastric, or other secretions, which are poured into the stomach or intestines during the process of digestion. As a rule cooking facilitates digestion, partly by softening the food, and partly by inducing chemical changes which would otherwise have to be induced by functional activity in the stomach or intestines. In some instances, however, cooking hardens the tissues, and so retards digestion. Over roasting or quick boiling, of meats usually toughens the fibres. Fat retards digestion, as it has to undergo a long process of emulsifying before being absorbed. Salt and spices, on the other hand, hasten digestion by stimulating the secretion of the necessary juices. But an over indulgence in spices of all kinds will, in the long run, irritate the mucous membrane of the intestinal canal, induce a congestive tendency of the secretory organs, and so produce functional disorganization, resulting in slow and painful digestion. Overseasoning brings about an unhealthy condition of the liver. Too much liquid in the stomach immediately before or while eating dilutes the

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saliva and digestive juices, weakening their activity. Too long fasting turns the natural alkalinity of the saliva to acidity, resulting in heartburn. Coffee and tea retard digestion. They should not be partaken of at a meal when meat is eaten to any extent. In the aged, however, good tea is undoubtedly beneficial by reducing tissue waste. Wines and light beers in moderation gently stimulate digestion, but strong beers and alcohol greatly prolong the process. Under normal conditions, it is well that the digestive process should not be prolonged beyond four to four-and-a-half hours. For invalids and persons with " weak stomachs," the time allowed should be much less. It is, therefore, necessary to study the table of digestibility, which has been compiled from the result of repeated experiments by a number of doctors. It must, of course, be remembered that with invalids, the weak, children, and aged persons, digestion is prolonged beyond the normal indicated below, DIGESTIVE TIME TABLE T me Minutes.

Apples, sweet vrftfT Raw....

j •3 r to Barley Soup Beans Puree j Beef, lean o,, tender Beef, fresh salted Beets Brains j t Bread, fresh Butler Melted....

J Bread and Butter (with coffee).

Cabbage.... t Celery. '. • 1 10173 iJs« -MU ^n Chicken.,i^v/. >;;;Tht. iL% u>...014:

Fricasseed 4?

Cheese, okl A r Duck o Eel.......

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DIGESTIVE TIME TABLE (continued). Preparation. Hours. Minutes. Eggs fresh Raw -i T o 3° o o o C) 3° o IS Soft boiled... Hard boiled Whipped (raw) Scrambled Warmed... Fried or sauteed. Raw Fish (other than fat varieties). Fowls.".. " Game (most kinds).... Goose Hashed meat Liver (calves') (ox) Lentils Boiled and broiled. Raw lean Nuts ( Jysters Stt'Wed.... Ko.K-d.... K'oasted....:l'*d.... Fried or Kiked iU-d....

Raw Onions in king Pork, t'.it Potatoes. Sausage:lli-d.... Smoked.. Raw.

Suet....

SoiiKu h.... Salmon, fivsh smoked Stone Fruit Tapioi:;» 1'olled... 'led....

K-.ash-il.... il.-d.... railed.... Koasted or grilled. •Mrd. '... Tripe '1 rout Turnips....;

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QUANTITIES AND MEASURES AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT.

1 6 Drachms — 1 6 Ounces = 14 Pounds — 28 Pounds =• 4 Quarters = 20 Hundredweight =«= i Drachm, i Ounce.

Pound (lb.).

Stone.

Quarter (qr.).

Hundredwt.

Ton.

APOTHECARIES' 20 Grains •= i Scruple — 20 grs.

3 Scruples •= i Drachm = 60 „ 8 Drachms =» i Ounce — 480 „ 12 Ounces = i Pound =-=5760 „ Apothecaries compound their medicines by this weight, but buy and sell their drugs by avoirdupois.

APOTHECARIES' FLUID MEASURE 60 Minims =i Fluid Drachm.

8 Drachms = i Ounce.

20 Ounces =i Pint.

8 Pints =i Gallon.

DRY MEASURE 2 Gallons 4 Pecks 3 Bushels 12 Sacks 8 Bushels 5 Quarters - i Peck (pk.).

= i Bushel (bush.).

«= i Sack.

=- i Chaldron.

= i Quarter (qr.).

- i Load (Id.).

LIQUID MEASURE 4 Gills = i Pint (pt.).

2 Pints — i Quart (qt.).

4 Quarts = i Gallon (gall.), QUANTITIES AND TIME Scales and weights for weighing are desirable in all culinary operations, but they are not indispensable; for weights and measures have their equivalents, as the appended tables will show. They may not be strictly exact, but they are sufficiently so for ordinary purposes. The " rule of thumb " system sometimes produces very good results, but it is uncertain, and it is better to have a rough guide than none; and failing weights and scales, all ingredients should be measured in cups, spoons, or whatever utensil or vessel may be best suited to the quantity. But whether the ingredients are intended for a cake, pudding, soup or sauce, something more than exact weight and measure and careful mixing is required. The recipes give precise directions as to application of strong or gentle heat, and whether the vessels are to remain uncovered or otherwise. If these directions be disregarded, and soups or stews are allowed to reduce themselves by evaporation and rapid boiling, it naturally follows that the amount of liquid allowed for the stew is too little, and the quantity of thickening intended for the soup will be found too much. If eggs were of uniform size, and if flour always absorbed the same amount of liquid, it would be possible to state precisely how many eggs or how much milk would sufficiently moisten a given quantity of flour. As matters stand, indecisive terms and directions are sometimes unavoidable; occasionally something must be left to the discretion and common-sense of the worker.

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THE SCIENCE OF COOKERY TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS i Breakfastcupful of Water or Milk i.Teacupful,,,, 4 Tablespoonfuls „,, i Wineglassful,,,, MEASURE.

. | pint.

'. i ',', Breakfastcupful of moist sugar (heaped).. £ Ib. castor „,,. 7 ozs.

butter, lard or dripping (hpd.) 7,, suet (finely chopped),,. 4,, breadcrumbs, pressed in,,. 4,, sago, tapioca, semolina,,. 4,, flour, cornflour,, „. 4,, Tablespoonful of suet finely chopped (heaped) moist sugar golden syrup Dessertspoonful of flour (heaped). moist sugar golden syrup (level) Saltspoonful is equal to Teaspoonful,, Dessertspoonful,, i oz.

ton spoonful.

dessertspoonful, tablespoon ful.

6 Ordinary-sized lumps of sugar weigh i oz. A piece of butter or fat, about the size of a small egg, weighs about i..

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NOTE IT will be seen, on referring to the Recipes which follow, that by the original method of explanation adopted, the rules for the preparation of each dish are clearly and intelligibly indicated. We would recommend the young housekeeper, cook, or whoever may be engaged in the important task of " getting ready " the dinner or other meal, to follow precisely the order in which the Recipes are given. Thus, let them first place on their table all the Ingredients necessary; then the Method of preparation will be quickly and easily managed. By carefully reading the Recipes there should not be the slightest difficulty in arranj ing a repast for any number of persons, and an accurate notion will gained of the Time required for the cooking of each dish, the perk when it is Seasonable, and its Average Cost.

The prices are based on a careful study of the London Market lisl of the season, when the various articles are at their best. Where tl fluctuations are very considerable, the item is omitted from the c< culation. As stated, the prices are Average only, and must be modifie according to season, district and the supply of and demand for articles that may prevail.

Notes are also given on the natural history of the different anirm and various edible articles in common use, indicating their habital characteristic features, and dietetic value, which from a practi< economical and educational point of view will be found both inte esting and serviceable.

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CHAPTER VII.

General directions for making Soups and Stock, with observations on the materials required for Soups. Thickenings and Flavourings.

THE valuable dietetic properties of soup have been, and indeed still are, much overlooked in this country. Soup forms the first course of the ncal of those who dine in the true sense of the term, but its import. nice is a part of the every day diet is not sufficiently appreciated by the nultitnde in those islands. Yet no form of food is more digestible and.vlmlt some, nor does any other method of preparing food afford so many opportunities for utilizing material that would otherwise be u..Mr<l. ly a hundred years ago Count Rumford, the famous scientist md founder of the Royal Institution, wrote: — " The richness or quality of a soup depends more upon a proper hoice of ingredients, and a proper management of the fire in the comnnation of those ingredients, than upon the quantity of solid nutritious natter employed; much more upon the art and skill of the cook than ipon the sum laid out in the market."

This remark is as true to-day as it was a century ago. The average Mies that the goodness of a soup depends upon the weight <>t:ie puts into it, and upon the size of the fire over which it is boil< -d. t will therefore be advisable to preface this chapter with a simple •it-ntiti.- account of a few of the most interesting and important f_u ts •Inch relate to the food we have to prepare, and the theory and chemious culinary operations. This is, therefore, the proper lace to treat of the quality of the flesh of animals, and to describe some I the conditions which affect its qualities. We will commence ith the consideration of age, and examine how far this affects the uality of the meat.

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The Flesh of Animals. — During the period between the birth and maturity of animals their flesh undergoes very considerable changes. For instance, when the animal is young, the fluids in the tissues of the muscles contain a large proportion of albumin and gelatin. This albumin, which is also the chief component of the white of eggs, and is the essential constituent of protoplasm, the physical basis of life, possesses the peculiarity of coagulating or hardening at a certain temperature (160° F., the cooking point of meat) like the white of a boiled egg, and becomes no longer soluble or capable of being dissolved in water. As animals grow older gelatin gradually decreases in proportion to the fibrin (an organic compound substance which constitutes the solid matter that is deposited when blood coagulates) and to the other constituents of the flesh. The reason, therefore, why veal, lamb and young pork are white when cooked is that the large quantity of albumin contained in the fibres hardens, or becomes coagulated. The chief characteristic of young meat is the great proportion of gelatin contained in those parts that afterwards become hard or bony. The quality of the flesh of animals is influenced considerably by the nature of the food on which they have been fed, for the food supplies the material which produces the flesh. If the food is not suitable and good, the meat will necessarily be inferior. The flesh of animals fed on farinaceous produce, as corn, pulse, etc., is firm, well-flavoured and also economical in the cooking; the flesh of those fed on juicy and pulpy substances, as roots, possesses these qualities in a somewhat less degree; but the flesh of those whose food contains fixed oil, as linseed, is greasy, high-coloured and gross in the fat, and if such food has been used in large quantities, will have a rank flavour.

Health of Animals. — It is indispensable to the good quality of meat that the animal should be perfectly healthy when slaughtered. However slight the disease in an animal may be, inferiority in the quality of its flesh as food is certain to follow. In many cases, indeed, the flesh of diseased animals has a tendency to very rapid putrefaction, and becomes not only unwholesome, but absolutely poisonous to those who eat it.

The Treatment of the Animal before it is Slaughtered is another circumstance which greatly affects the quality of meat, and has an important influence on its value and wholesomeness. This will be readily understood if we consider the laws in accordance with which the life of an animal is supported and maintained. These are the digestion of its food and the assimilation of that food into its substance. Nature in effecting this process, first reduces the food in the stomach to a state of pulp, under the name of chyme, which passes into the intestines and is there divided into two principles, each distinct from the other. One, a milk-white fluid — the nutritive portion — is absorbed by th( innumerable vessels which open upon the mucous membrane, or inne

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coat of the intestines. These vessels, or absorbents, discharge the fluid into a common duct, or road, along which it is conveyed to the blood, thus supplying it with materials whereby the various tissues are nourished. The blood having circulated through all parts, and having had its waste repaired by the digested food, is now received into the heart, and by the action of that organ it is urged through the lungs, there to receive its purification from the air which the animal inhales. Again returning to the heart, it is forced through the arteries, and thence distributed by the innumerable ramifications of the minute blood-vessels, called capillaries, to every part of the animal, imparting life and nutriment. The other principle — the innutritive portion — passes from the intestines out of the system. It will now be clearly seen how flesh is injuriously affected if an animal is slaughtered when the circulation of its blood has been increased by over-driving, ill-usage or any other cause of excitement, to such a degree that the capillaries cannot perform their functions properly, thus ing the blood to be congealed in its minuter vessels. Where this has been the case, the meat will be dark-coloured and become rapidly putrid, so that self-interest and humanity alike dictate kind and gentle treatment of all animals destined to serve as food for man. THE CHEMISTRY AND ECONOMY OF SOUP MAKING.

The Basis of all Meat Soups. — Stock forms the basis of all ir ind of the principal sauces; but except the rich clear stock us>:onsomme (or clear soup), it is not necessarily made from fresh In making brown stock from the shin of beef, white stock from he knuckle of veal, or ordinary stock from the bones and the trimmings f meat, poultry, etc., the methods employed for completely extracting rom the materials all their nutriment and flavour are the same: the esult depends upon the quality and kind of material employed, and hie length of time the simmering is continued. Five or six hours will xtract from the materials all that is necessary and desirable for stock ntendcd for clear soup; but many more hours of gentle simmering will >e necessary to draw from the bones all the goodness they contain. In Franco, and indeed throughout the Continent generally, a stock-pot v-ill be found in every peasant's kitchen. By its means, the ba i delicious meal can be provided from materials that would be as ted in the average middle class household in Britain. The component parts of meat are: albumin, myosin (contained in 11 muscle fibres \ fibrin, gelatin, fat, alkaline salts and certain <-xactives known as osmasome, which give to flesh its characteristic:Me flavour.

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Albumin. — Albuir^n is the most valuable nutritive substance contained in meat; it and its allied substance myosin are soluble in cold water, but coagulate or harden almost immediately they come in contact with boiling water, or with water a few degrees below boiling point; and it is the knowledge of these important facts which enables us to retain the juices in the meat in roasting and boiling, and extract all the goodness from it in making soup. The chemistry of this will be easily understood by minutely examining the thread-like fragments of meat that have been subjected to a long process of boiling. In the raw condition each separate fibre was intermixed with and surrounded by albumin, myosin, etc. In making stock, the meat is cut up into rather small pieces in order to expose a larger surface to the action of the water. If put into cold water and allowed to stand for some time the soluble substances, albumin, myosin, osmasome and salts are extracted. The salts and extractives (certain nitrogenous crystalline bodies) being readily soluble are dissolved at once, the albumin and myosin dissolve slowly and the gelatin becomes softened. When heat is applied its first gentle effect is to hasten the dissolving and softening processes, but as it approaches boiling point the albumin and myosin coagulate and appear as brown particles on the surface of the stock. The connective tissue which surrounds and binds the thread-like fibres together dissolves under the influence of heat, and yields gelatin to the stock. Should the mistake of putting the meat into boiling water be made the albumin on the surface of each piece of meat would immediately harden and imprison the juices of the meat, and thus protect them and the fibres from the softening and dissolving influence of the water. Consequently the stock would be thin and poor.

Gelatin. — The best stock and the best beef tea are not necessarily those which, when cold, form a jelly. The properties to which beef tea owes its valuable stimulating power are not derived from gelatin, but from the juices of the meat; of which juices more can be extracted from a beef-steak cut from a recently-killed animal, than from one that has been hung for some time, and yet obtained in a much larger proportion from ANY KIND of beef-steak than from the highly gelatinous shin of beef. Juicy beef produces well-flavoured, stimulating beet tea, but such a liquid, strained of its floating particles of coagulated albumin, has no value as a food, and notwithstanding its rich flavour of meat would be regarded as too thin and watery to form the basis of a good consomme, which must combine both flavour and substance. Th< i« fore, in making stock, the extraction of the juices of meat by the process already indicated, should be followed by a long, slow simmering to soften and dissolve the connective tissue, tendons, etc., which yield a more transparent gelatin than that extracted from bones. Gelatin not only gives substance to the stock, but also makes it more nourishing, if that point need be considered in a liquid forming the basis of a con-

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somme generally used as a prelude to a dinner in which meat and poultry play an important part. Gelatin in this form is more useful to those who cannot eat much meat or other albuminoid food, as the nitrogen of the gelatin replaces the nitrogen of albumin, in the formation of many digestive and other secretions of the body, if not in its constructive processes.

Extractives. — It is to the changes the extractives undergo during the process of cooking that meat owes much of its flavour, particularly the outside of roast meat. The flesh of old animals contains more of these substances than that of young ones; brown meats contain more than white, and consequently give a richer, if a less delicate, flavour to the CLASSIFICATION OF SOUPS.

Although there are between five and six hundred different kinds of soup, they can be broadly divided into a few distinct classes, namely, broths, clear soups, thick soups and pur6es; each group may be divided and sub-divided, but it will be more convenient to consider them under this simple classification.

Broths. — The unclarified liquor in which chicken, veal, beef, mutton, rabbit or sheep's head is cooked are included in this class. Tlu-y arc frequently garnished with pearl-barley or rice, but they are not thickened.

Clear Soups. — The basis of good clear soups is double stock, that is, a good beef stock which has been strengthened with veal to give it gelatinous substance, and with fowl to improve the flavour. The clear soups include all those which are transparent in appearance, varying in colour from amber to nut-brown. Additions may be made to them as a garniture or decoration, from which they take their distinctive name. Some of the garnitures and flavouring in common use are: vegetables; "shaped," i.e. cut into various shapes or devices; dice, or small cubes of cooked game, chicken, meat and fish; quenelles of meat, fish and chicken; finely shredded vegetables; various farinaceous preparations as Italian paste, semolina, rice, sago and batters. Thick Soups. — The basis of soups of this class may be stock of any kind, white, brown, fish or vegetable, according to the soup required, or a mixture of white stock and milk for such soups as Potage a la Royal and Potage a la Bonne Femme; or all milk, or milk and water for such plain thick soups as cabbage and vegetable soups. Soups of this class are frequently garnished as well as being thickened; the wellknown ox-tail and mock turtle soups may be given as examples. Thick soups owe their thickening to the addition of arrowroot, cornflour, rice-flour, flour, or some other farinaceous substance; rich soups, such as " Bonne Femme," are thickened by a liaison or combination of

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yolks of eggs and cream, while a good brown soup like " Ox Tail " would be thickened with butter and flour, previously either cooked or well kneaded together. In making hare soup the blood of the animal is frequently used: it should be strained into the soup a few minutes before serving. Thick soups should have the same consistency as good single cream, i.e. cream obtained from milk that has stood 12 hours. Purges. — This class of soups differs from other thick soups in being thickened by the ingredients of which they are made, such as Bisque of Lobster, purees of peas, beans and lentils; in all cases the substances comprising the soup are rubbed through a sieve and served in the soup. Croutons of bread are usually used with purees. PUR£E, Fr. — A smooth pulp, thick soup, mashed vegetables. Meat or fish that has been cooked, pounded in a mortar, and passed through a sieve is also called a puree. Vegetarian Soups. — A soup made of milk and cabbage, lettuce or mixed vegetables, may not please the English palate so well as the more expensive consomme, but it contains as much nourishment, and if in itself it had no food value whatever it would still be a useful addition to a meal of cold meat. A few words will explain this. Food serves the twofold purpose of maintaining the heat of the body and of supplying force or strength. A want of food produces not only a sense of hunger, but also a sensation of cold. If a meal of cold meat be taken, a part of the latent heat contained in it will be spent in raising the temperature of the food to that of the body, consequently less food will be available for the production of heat and energy. Some hot soup taken at the commencement of the meal would not only have strengthened the stomach and made it better able to receive the substantial food to follow, but it would by its own heat have quickly raised the temperature of the food it became mixed with. Soups made from peas, beans and lentils, being very rich in carbo-hydrates, contain so much nourishment that they ought to be eaten in the place of meat instead of with it: every economical housewife should know the value of these soups. Mattieu Williams, speaking of vegetable soups, says: " I must add a few words in advocacy of the further adoption in this country of the French practice of using as POTAGE the water in which vegetables generally (excepting potatoes) have been boiled. When we boil cabbages, turnips, carrots, etc., we dissolve out of them a very large proportion of their saline constituents; salts which are absolutely necessary for the maintenance of health; salts without which we become victims of gout, rheumatism, lumbago and gravel." Flavourings for Soups. — The following list of flavourings simply enumerates those most commonly used and conveniently obtained: turnips, carrots, onions, celery, parsley, thyme, bay-leaf (parsley, thyme and bay-leaf are usually tied together and spoken of as a " bouquetgarni"), tarragon, chervil, tomatoes, celery seeds, cloves, wine, vinegars of various kinds, and lemon juice.

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Seasoning for Soups. — In addition to salt and pepper, which form the ordinary seasonings for soups, and which must be added with caution, nutmeg, allspice, mace, sugar and cinnamon are used, but in all cases judgment and discretion must be exercised, as an overdose of any one of the above ingredients may spoil the best soup. The exact quantity of liquid needed in making soup cannot, speaking generally, be given, so much depends on the rate of cooking, and whether the lid of the saucepan is kept on to prevent waste by evaporation. If the liquid becomes greatly reduced by rapid boiling but has been closely covered, the contents of the saucepan have merely become concentrated in strength and flavour, and water may be added to make up the original quantity. Should the liquid, by being allowed to boil in an uncovered saucepan, have wasted its strength and flavour, sufficient stock, milk, or whatever formed the basis of the soup, must be added to make up the original STRENGTH and quantity. The inexperienced cook should take this lesson to heart — Cooking cannot be Hastened. If the preparations for dinner have been somewhat delayed nothing is gained by placing the saucepan containing the soup, stew, or meat on the top of a fierce fire. When once the SLOW-BOILING or simmering point has been reached all excess of heat is wasted, and the BENEFIT of slow progressive cooking is lost.

The following information and directions will be found useful in the making of stock.

1. Beef makes the best brown stock, but it lacks gelatinous substance; therefore stock for good consomme, or clear soup, should be made of beef and veal, and a fowl, or part of a fowl added to give it an additional flavour.

2. White stock is usually made from veal, bones and remains of poultry and calves' feet. The liquor in which calves' head or fowls has been boiled makes excellent white stock.

3. Stock meat should be as lean and as fresh as possible. Never wash meat unless obliged, as it deprives its surface of all the juices. It should be cut into small pieces, in order to multiply the surfaces to be exposed to the softening and dissolving influences of the water. 4. The usual allowance of water is i quart to each Ib. of meat. This may, however, be too large a quantity if the stock is very gently simmered and kept covered the whole time; on the other hand, if cooked too quickly, or if by careless exposure the evaporation is excessive, the amount specified may not be sufficient.

5. The meat should be allowed to stand in the water for a little time in order to dissolve the soluble constituents; heat should be applied gradually until the stock reaches the boiling point; when the scum

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thrown up by boiling has been removed, the stock should be reduced to, and kept at, simmering point.

6. The vegetables must be whole or in large pieces, and be added after the stock has boiled and the scum has been removed. They should be used very sparingly so as not to overpower the flavour of the meat. To 4 quarts of water, i carrot, i onion, £ a turnip and i short strip of celery should be allowed, also a teaspoonful of salt and 12 peppercorns; ground pepper should never be used, as it makes stock and clear soup cloudy, 7. The stock should simmer very gently for 5 or 6 hours, with the stockpot covered to prevent waste by evaporation. When ready, it should be strained through a hair sieve into a large basin, and the meat and sediment at the bottom of the stewpan be put back into the stock pot. 8. When cold, the fat should be removed from the surface. MANAGEMENT OP A HOUSEHOLD STOCK-POT.

For most cooking operations stock is in constant demand to form the basis of a soup, a sauce or gravy. Recipes for making excellent stocks (including white stock or blond de Veau, and a good brown stock) are given on the following pages. The stock-pot should supply stock for sauces, stews and gravies, and we will now indicate how a careful cook can always have stock on hand with little or no extra expense. The first consideration is the stock-pot. A well-tinned stock-pot with a tap is to be recommended; the tap permits the stock to be drawn off without any admixture of grease, all the fat rising to the top of the stock-pot. For small households the earthenware stock-pot will be found useful, as a very small amount of heat is required to keep its contents at simmering point.

The materials that may be put into the stock-pot are bones and the trimmings of meat, cooked or uncooked; poultry, giblets, poultry bones, game bones, the rinds and bones of bacon, the remains of gravies, but not sauces thickened with flour — the latter make the stock cloudy. Scraps of raw vegetables, if fresh and suitable, may be added in cold weather; cooked vegetables must not be used for they are liable to turn sour, especially in warm weather.

Fat should never be put into the stock-pot, but marrow from bones is often introduced in small quantity. Flour and anything thickened with flour or potatoes must also be carefully excluded. When using a metal stock-pot the stock should be emptied and strained every night into an earthenware vessel. In starting it the following morning the pieces of meat and bones from which all the goodness has been extracted should be discarded, and the rest returned to the stock-pot with the stock or fresh water.

Fresh meat used for stock need not be washed, but should be wiped with a damp cloth before being cut up.

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Any unused stock should be boiled up every day in hot weather, and in cooler weather every second or third day. MEAT GLAZE.

Any kind of rich meat stock, especially such as contains a good proportion of gelatinous substance, can be reduced to half glaze, or ^la/«gravy that sets to the thickness of jelly. This is effected by rapid boiling, and frequent skimming to ensure its being clear, until the desired consistency has been reached.

Glaze is used for improving the appearance of meats, galantines, pies, etc., and is very handy for enriching soups and sauces, which frequently require additional strength and flavour. GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR RECIPES FOR SOUPS.

The vegetables named in the recipes are supposed to be of moderate size, but two smaller ones, or half a larger one may be used instead. To avoid repetition, they are spoken of as " prepared," meaning thai the onions have been peeled, the carrots scraped and the turnips pared. As the fibre on the outside of the turnip is very tough and thick it is advisable, and not extravagant, to take off a THICK PARING. On the other hand, potatoes should be pared as thinly as possible, because the outer part contains the most valuable and nutritious part of the potato.

A bouquet-garni is a small bunch of mixed herbs, such as parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, basil and majoram. Sparingly used, these herbs improve the flavour of many soups, but they are not essential, and one >r more of them may be omitted if they cannot be easily procured. The following table of equivalents will enable the cook to dispense with scales in making many of the soups given in the following pages. TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS MEASURE.;HT.

Flour I tablespoonful (heaped) i oz.

Rice I „ (level) I,, Semolina I,,,, I,, Tapioca and Sago I,,,, I,, \ piece of butter or fat, the size of a small bgg i., Tumbler, \ pint. Breakfast Cup, £ pint. Tea Cup,.} pint.

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RECIPES FOR SOUPS.

CHAPTER VIII.

Stock, broths, clear soups, thick soups, purees, fish soups, and miscellaneous soups.

Stocks for all Kinds of Soup.

i.— BONE STOCK.

Any kind of bones, cooked or uncooked, may be used to make bore stock. Put them in a small stew-pan or small stock-pot, add enougl water to well cover, and bring to the boil. Skim, add a peeled onion, a carrot and a bay-leaf, and simmer for 2 or 3 hours. Season to taste with salt. This stock may be used in place of water for making gravy soups, and sauces.

2.— BROWN STOCK. (Very good).

Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of shin or neck of beef, i Ib. of knuckle of veal 3 or 4 Ib. of bones (beef and veal), the necks, cleaned feet, the gizzards and livers of a chicken or a fowl, 2 carrots, 2 onions, i turnip, a strif of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns 4 cloves, i tablespoonful of salt, 8 quarts of water. Method. — Cut up the meat, and break the bones into small pieces cover with cold water, put in the salt and let it stand for an hour, ther bring gently to boiling point. Remove the scum as it rises, and wher quite clear put in the herbs and vegetables, which should previously have been prepared, and cut into large pieces, or if small, left whole if they are cut small and break up, they are apt to make the stocl cloudy. Let the stock boil up after putting in the vegetables and skin well, then put on the lid, draw to the side of the stove and sin; me VERY GENTLY for 5 or 6 hours. Any fat which rises to the surfac' during the process of simmering should be carefully skimmed off wit! a spoon. When sufficiently cooked, strain the stock through a hai sieve into a basin, and when cold take off the fat, which can be clarifie< and used for frying. The meat and bones should be covered wit' water and boiled down for " second " or " ordinary " stock. Stock made according to this recipe could, after being cleared, be use

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STOCKS FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUP 139 for any clear soup, which would take its name from the garnish served with it.

Time. — 6 hours. Average Cost, is. per quart.

This should produce about 6 quarts of stock.

3.— BROWN STOCK. (Economical).

Ingredients. — 4 Ib. of raw or cooked bones, the neck, cleaned feet, gizzards and liver of a chicken, the bones and rind of ham or bacon, 2 onions sliced, 2 carrots sliced, i turnip sliced, a strip of celery cut into small pieces, 2 ozs. of butter or sweet dripping, 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, i tablespoonful of salt, and I quart of water to each Ib. of meat and bone.

Method. — Clean and peel the vegetables. Make the fat hot in a large stewpan, chop or break the bones into small pieces, drain the vegetables thoroughly. Place the bones, herbs and vegetables in the hot fat, put on the cover of the stewpan, and fry gently until the whole is quite brown, stirring and turning the ingredients occasionally to prevent anything becoming overcooked. Put in the cold water, salt, peppercorns and cloves, let it come gently to the boil, and remove the scum as it rises. When clear, put on the cover and simmer gently for 5 or 6 hours. Some of the fat used in frying will rise to the surface during the process of simmering and should be taken off with a spoon. When done, strain through a sieve into a large basin, and when cold, remove the fat.

Soup made from this stock may not have the transparent brilliancy of that made from the previous recipe, but if gently simmered and carefully cleared it is quite good enough for ordinary purposes. Frying the bones and vegetables before adding the water greatly improves the flavour and colour.

Time. — 6 hours. Average Cost, 6d. per quart.

i Ib. of solid material employed for stock should produce about i£ pints of stock.

4.— BROWNING FOR STOCK.

The best way to get brown stock is to fry the meat and bones in a little fat, as directed in the foregoing recipe. Another way to colour stock or any kind of soup or sauce is to add a few drops of caramel. This is obtained by boiling £ a Ib. of loaf sugar with $ a gill of water until it is a dark brown, almost blade colour. Then add a gill of cold water, and boil again till it acquires the consistency of thick syrup. Put it in a bottle and use as required; it will keep for any length of time.

5.— FISH STOCK.

Ingredients.— 2 Ib. of any inexpensive white fish, such as plaice or

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flounders (the bones and trimmings of fish will serve), i onion sliced, a blade of mace, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 white peppercorns, I teaspoonful of salt, 2 quarts of water. Method. — Put all the ingredients together into a clean stewpan, and simmer gently for i hour from the time the stock begins to cook, when all that is desirable will have been extracted. Further cooking sometimes imparts a disagreeably bitter taste to the stock. The stock should be well skimmed, strained, and put into a basin For thick soups and sauces it is ready for immediate use, but for clear fish stock (which is very rarely used), it would be necessary to clarify it with the whites and shells of eggs, allowing 4 to each quart of stock. Time. — i hour. Average Cost, 6d. per quart. Quantity, about 3 pints of stock.

6.— GRAVY STOCK.

add Chop up, rather small, some bones from roast meat, fry them brown in a pan with a little dripping; pour off all the fat, and enough stock or water to cover the bones. Season with salt and pepper, and boil for half an hour. Strain and use as required. 7.— SECOND STOCK.

The bones and meat used for making stock, and the meat used clearing consomme (clear soup) should be covered with cold water and cooked for several hours to make what is known as " second," or " ordinary " stock. Neither seasoning nor flavouring is added, as this second stock forms the basis of soups, stews, and sauces which have a distinct flavour of their own.

8.— VEGETABLE STOCK.

Ingredients. — 3 carrots, 2 onions, i turnip, 2 tomatoes, i stick of celery, i head of lettuce, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a blade of mace, 12 peppercorus, 2 cloves, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 quarts of water, i teaspoonful of salt.

Method. — Cut the onions, turnips and carrots into thin slices, and the celery into small pieces. Make the butter hot in a stewpan, put in the vegetables and fry gently for £ an hour, keeping the stewpan covered. In the meantime shred the lettuce, and when the vegetables are sufficiently cooked, add it, together with the tomatoes (sliced), herbs, flavourings, seasonings and water, and bring gently to the boil. Skim off the scum as it rises, then cover and simmer gently for i^ hours, strain, and it is ready for use.

Time.— 2 hours. Average Cost, $d. per quart. Quantity, about 2 quarts.

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STOCKS FOR ALL KINDS OF SOUP 141 9.—WHITE, or VEAL STOCK. (Fr.— Blond de Veau.) Ingredients. — 4 Ib. of knuckle of veal, the neck and cleaned feet of a chicken, the bones of a chicken (or one shilling's worth of veal bones and an old fowl), 2 carrots, 2 onions, i turnip, i strip of celery, bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, I tablespoonful of salt, i quart to each Ib. of meat and bone. Method. — Cut up the meat and break the bones into small pieces, put them into a large stewpan with the salt and water, and let them stand for about i hour. Bring gently to boiling point, remove the scum as it rises, and when the stock is quite clear put in the herbs and vegetables, which should previously have been prepared and cut into large pieces, or if small left whole. Let the stock boil up after putting in the vegetables and skim well until clear, then put on the cover, draw the pan to the side of the stove and simmer VERY GENTLY for 5 or 6 hours, taking care to skim off the fat as it rises. When sufficiently cooked, strain off, and when cold remove the fat.

Time. — 6 hours. Average Cost, is. per quart. Quantity, — 4 quarts. Note. — The liquor in which chicken, veal, rabbit, calf's head or mutton has been boiled makes excellent stock for white soups; and the cold remains of any of these ingredients may be made into second stock, which, if not very rich, is obviously better than water in making the inexpensive white soups. io.— TO CLARIFY STOCK FOR CLEAR SOUP, or CONSOMME The following is a simple way by which any cloudy stock can be clarified or rendered transparent. Peel, wash and cut up small the following prepared vegetables: £ an onion or £ a leek, i small carrot, a piece of celery or some celery leaves; put these into a clean and dry stewpan, with a sprig of thyme and marjoram, a sprig or two of tarragon, chervil, 6 peppercorns, the white and shell of an egg (the egg shell must be clean), a little lemon-juice and a teaspoonful of vinegar. Stir this with a whisk, and add £ to £ of a Ib. of finely-chopped lean beef, moistened with a little cold water, thru put in the stock (2 to 3 quarts), which should be cold and free from fat. Bring it to the boil whilst whisking, remove from the fire, and let it simmer gently for about 20 to 30 minutes. Season to taste with salt, etc., and strain through a cloth.

Average Cost, is. 6d. per quart.

THE LAUREL, or BAY (Fr. laurier).— There are two varieties of the laurel chiefly cultivated in gardens, the sweet bay— the noble or victor's laurel, whose berry-bearing sprays \\vn- u-t-d in classic decorate competitors in the national games — and the common or cherry-laurel, which is not a true laurel, whose leaves are employed for their kernel-like flavour, for blanc-ni.umi-;. custards puddings, etc. By the action of water upon the leaves of the cherry-laurel pru-. eloped; care should therefore be taken to use the leaves with great moderation.

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Broths.

ii.— BEEF BROTH. (Fr.— Croute-au-pot.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of good first stock (see Recipe No. 3, p. 139), i carrot, i turnip, |- a cabbage, 2 ozs. of butter, i dinner roll, parsley or chives, pepper, salt, and nutmeg to season.

Method. — The stock should be made from beef and veal bones, well skimmed, but not necessarily clarified. The vegetables, after being washed and pared, may be cooked whole in the stock-pot. Cut the carrot and turnip into round slices, drain the cabbage and cut it into small pieces. Put all the vegetables in a stewpan with the butter, cover, and cook slowly for about 10 minutes. Season with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Strain the stock on to the vegetables, let them simmer for about 30 minutes, and skim occasionally. Cut the roll into thin round slices, place them on a baking sheet, bake them on both sides a golden brown in a moderate oven, put them in a soup tureen, moisten with a little stock, pour the soup over, sprinkle over with a little chopped parsley or chives, and serve. Average Cost. — 2s. 6d. Seasonable at all times. Sufficient for 6 or 8 THE CARROT (Fr. carotte) is a biennial plant of the natural order Umbelliferae. In its natural state the root is small, tapering, of a white colour, and strongly flavoured. It is indigenous to Britain and most parts of Europe, was cultivated in England as early as the sixteenth century, and has also been grown in North America and China. The cultivated variety of the carrot varies in colour from pale-yellow to orange-red, the latter being the more esteemed. The carrot is not very nutritive, containing but few flesh-forming constituents; it has, however, a large proportion of saccharine matter. It is slightly laxative. The leaves of the carrot have an elegant feathery appearance, and a pretty winter ornament may be made by placing the cut top of a carrot in a shallow vessel of water, when the young leaves will spring forth, and grow with a pleasant freshness. 12.— BOUILLON (BEEF BROTH).

This is the same as Pot-au-feu (see Recipe No. 17, p. 144), using the broth, which should be seasoned and served in cups, with a few thin sippets of bread, and a little finely-chopped parsley. 13.— CHICKEN BROTH. (Fr.— Bouillon de Volatile.) Ingredients. — i chicken, 2 quarts of cold water, i small onion, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i blade of mace, i tablespoonful of rice (this may be omitted), salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the chicken into small pieces, break the bones, scald and skin the feet and gizzard, and wash the neck and liver. Put these into a stewpan, add the water and % a teaspoonful of salt, bring to the boil, and skim. Add the onion and mace, and cook slowly for 3 hours, Strain, return to the stewpan, bring to the boil, sprinkle in the rice, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the parsley, season to taste, and serve. Time. — 3|- to 4 hours. Average Cost, 33. Seasonable at any time.

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RECIPES FOR BROTH 143 14.— CHICKEN BROTH, CHIFFONADE STYLE.

(Fr. — Consomme de Volaille a la Chiffonade.) Ingredients. — A small fowl, 3 quarts of white stock (see Recipe No. 9, p. 141), 3 ozs. of butter, 2 leeks, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i long lettuce, a handful of sorrel, £ a handful of cl. pepper and salt.

Method. — Cut the fowl into small joints, put 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, when hot put in the pieces of chicken, season with salt and pepper and fry slightly brown, add the stock, boil up and skim, add a small bunch of parsley, the bouquet-garni, and the leeks (previously dressed). Simmer gently for 2 hours. Wash the sorrel, chervil and lettuce (use the tender leaves only of the latter), cut all these vegetables into very fine strips, put them together with i oz. of butter in a stewpan, stir gently over a fire for 10 minutes, moisten with some of the broth, skim and cook for 15 minutes. Strain the remain the broth into this and season to taste. Cut some neat pieces of c! and put into a tureen, pour in the soup, and serve. Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost. — 6s. Sufficient for 8 persons. CHERVIL (Fr. cerfeuil). — The leaves of this plant are used for salads and as an ingredient in soups. It is native to some of the countries of Europe, and has become naturalized in England. I different varieties of the chervil, the parsnip-chervil, sweet chervil, aui-e chervil, vated chervil may be distinguished from the common wild chervil, which is poisonous, by the pleasant aromatic fragrance of its leaves, those of the wild variety having a disagreeable smell. 15.— COCKIE LEEKIE. (Fr.— Soupe aux Poireaux.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of good white stock, i small fowl, a bunch of leeks, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and p2 tablespoonfuls of cooked, well-dried rice, 2 ozs. of butter. Method. — Cut the fowl into small joints. Melt the butter in.1 pan, and fry the pieces of fowl until nicely browned. Pour off the butter, add the stock, boil up slowly, and remove the scum Wash the leeks, cut off the green parts, parboil them in salt and water, and drain well. Strain the soup aft< i cooked for £ an hour, return it to the saucepan, add the leeks, herbs, and t cut into dice or cubes. Simmer gently for i hour, then take out the herbs. Skim off the fat, add the cooked rice, salt and pepper to taste, and si Time.— About 2 hours. Average Cost, 35. to 35. 6d. without the stock. Seasonable in the Autumn. Sufficient for 10 persons. —Without the fowl the above, which would then be merely called leek soup, is very good, and also economical.

THE LFFK (Fr.: Forreau).— This is a perennial culinary vegetable of the genus AlUum or onion uildcr flavour. The stem of the leek is somewhat tall, and its large compact balls of flower* are supported on purple peduncles. The leek has been cultivated in Britain from the earliest times, f food of the ancient Egyptians. It is specially cultivated in Scotland and Wales. The leek is the badge of th-;ion ascribing to St. David, the patron saint of to that part of Britain The leek is a most wholesome vegetable, and is largely used for soups and stews.

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16.— FRENCH FAMILY SOUP. (Ft.— Croute au Pot.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of good beef stock, i carrot, ^ a turnip, £ a small cabbage, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper, nutmeg, i dinner roll.

Method. — Parboil the cabbage, carrot and turnip, and drain we2l. Cut the cabbage into small pieces, and the other vegetables into small rounds or squares. Melt the butter in a large stewpan, put ID the vegetables, season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, cover and cook slowly for about 10 minutes. Add the stock and simmer gently for \ an hour. Cut the roll into thin round slices, brown them in the oven, then put them into the tureen, and add the chopped parsley. Season the soup if necessary, and serve.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Seasonable at any time. PARSLEY (Fr. pcrsil). — This well-known culinary vegetable, with its fresh crisp aromatic leaves, has been long cultivated for seasoning and garnishing dishes. Its native country is uncertain, but it was known to the Greeks, who awarded a crown of parsley to victors in the Nemaean and Isthmian games; and the poet Anacreon uses this herb as the symbol of joy and festivity. It was probably introduced into Britain during the sixteenth century. There are several varieties of parsley, the curled-leaved, celery-leaved, and Hamburg-parsley; the more curled varieties are used for garnishing. Celery-leaved parsley is sometimes grown for its leaf stalks, which are blanched and used in the same manner as celery. Hamburg-parsley is cultivated only for its roots, which are eaten with meat as parsnips or carrots.

17.— FRENCH HOTCH POTCH. (Fr.-Pot-au-Feu.) Ingredients. — 5 quarts of cold water, 4 Ib. of brisket, rump, or leg oi beef (not the shin, which is too tough for this purpose), 3 onions, leeks, 2 carrots, i turnip, i parsnip, i small head of celery, i srm cabbage, 20 peppercorns, 4 cloves, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper, i or 2 French rolls.

Method. — Tie the meat to keep it in shape, and put it and the water into a large stewpan (an earthenware one with a close-fitting lid answers admirably). • When it boils, add a dessertspoonful of salt and let it simmer gently for 2 hours. Meanwhile prepare the vegetables, bu( leave the carrots, turnip, and parsnip whole, unless very large, whei they should be cut into 2 or 3 pieces. Quarter the celery, and remove the outer stalks, cut the cabbage in two, trim, and wash it well, the tie the two halves together. When the meat has been boiling for 2 hours, put in the bouquet-garni, cloves (stuck in one of the onions) peppercorns, and all the vegetables, but only a few at a time so that the temperature of the stock is not too much reduced. Cut the crust of the French rolls into small rounds, and either fry them or crisp them in the oven. Continue the cooking for 2 hours, after adding the vegetables, then strain some of the soup into a tureen, cut a little carrot, turnip, and leek into dice or cubes, and add them, with the chopj

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&ECIPES FOR BROTHS ±45 parsley and fried bread, to the soup in the tureen, and serve. Place the meat on a hot dish, and garnish with the rest of the vegetables. Serve the cabbage separately in a vegetable dish.

Time. — 4 to 4^ hours. Average Cost, 35. to 35. 6d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons.

THE POT-AU-FEU figures as a standing dish in France, Germany, and Switzerland. It is really the stock-pot, and is in use from early morning until dinner-time, therefore the basis of a pot-an-fiu i> tinstock already in the pot, which is daily being added to and taken from. The meat and soup are not necessarily served at one meal or served up in the manner described, for the meat is sometimes cut into rather thick slices and served covered with a good brown or piquant sauce. 18.— HOTCH POTCH. (Fr.— Hotch Potch a 1'Anglaise.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of water, 2 Ib. of neck of mutton, i onion, i carrot, £ a turnip, £ a pint of shelled peas, i small cauliflower, i good lettuce, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into neat pieces, put it into a stewpan with a teaspoonful of salt and the cold water, bring slowly to the boil, and skim well. Meanwhile, shred the lettuce finely (taking care to shorten the filaments by cutting them across), cut off the stalk of the cauliflower, and break the flower into small sprigs, cut the turnip, carrot, and onion into dice or cubes. Let the meat simmer gently for i hour, then put in the onion, carrot, and lettuce; % an hour afterwards add the turnip, peas, and cauliflower, and cook slowly for i hour, or until all the vegetables are tender, then add the chopped parsley, season to Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 2d. Seasonable in Summer. Sufficient for 6 persons.

19.— LEEK SOUP. (Fr.— Potage aux Poireaux.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of sheep's head broth (see recipe No. 26, p. 148), 6 leeks finely shredded, i good tablespoonful of medium or coarse oatmeal, salt and pepper.

Method. — Make the broth as directed, then strain and replace it in the saucepan. Bring to the boil, sprinkle in the oatmeal, add the prepared leeks, and boil gently until quite tender. Season to taste, Time. — From £ to i hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.

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20.— MUTTON BROTH. (Fr.— Bouillon de Mouton.) Ingredients. — i quart of cold water, i^ Ib. of neck of mutton, i small carrot, \ a turnip, i onion, i strip of celery, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, i tablespoonful of rice or pearl-barley, salt and Method. — Remove all the fat and cut the meat into small pieces. Put the water into a stewpan, add the meat, bones and a little salt, bring slowly to the boil, and skim well. If pearl-barley is used, blanch it by putting it into cold water and bringing to the boil. Cut the vegetables into rather small dice or cubes, and add them to the broth when it has cooked for i hour: add also the pearl-barley. When the broth has simmered gently for 3 hours, strain and return to the saucepan. Carefully remove any fragments of bone from the meat, vegetables and pearl-barley, and return. When boiling, sprinkle in the parsley. Season to taste, and serve.

Time. — 3 to 3^ hours. Average Cost, is. id. to is. 3d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

21. - MUTTON BROTH. (Fr.— Bouillon de Mouton.) Ingredients. — 3 quarts of cold water, 3 Ib. of the scrag end of the neck of mutton, i onion, i carrot, £ a turnip, 2 strips of celery, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 2 ozs. of pearl-barley, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, put them into a stewpan with the vegetables (cut up small), parsley, water, and a teaspoonful of salt, and simmer for 3 hours. Blanch and parboil the pearl-barley; cut one or two nice turnips into small dice (about |- a pint). Strain the broth, return it to the stewpan, add the pearl-barley and turnip dice, and cook very gently for 40 to 60 minutes. Cut some of the best pieces of mutton into neat squares, and add them to the broth to reheat. Season to taste, and serve.

Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.

22.— OKRA SOUP.

Ingredients. — i Ib. buttoek steak, 2 oz. of butter, i onion, i pint of okras, 2 quarts of stock.

Fry i Ib. of buttock steak, cut into small pieces, in butter or dripping. To this add a few slices of onion, fry both a nice brown. Next add i pint of okras (sliced), and moisten with 2 quarts of stock or water. Simmer for 2 hours, season, strain and serve. Time. — 2^ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons.

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RECIPES FOR BROTHS 147 23.— PAN KAIL. (Fr.— Soupe Maigre aux Choux.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of boiling water, 3 ozs. of butter or fat, i small cabbage shredded, i heaped tablespoonful of medium or coarse oatmeal, Method. — Melt the butter or fat in a saucepan, stir in the prepared cabbage, cook for 5 minutes, then add the boiling water. Bring to boiling-point, add a seasoning of salt and pepper, sprinkle in the oatmeal, and boil gently for 15 or 20 minutes, or until the cabbage is sufficiently cooked. Add more seasoning if required, then serve. Time.— About £ an hour. Average Cost, 4d. to sd. Sufficient for 6 THE SAVOY (Fr. chou <U Savoit) is one of the numerous cultivated forms of the cabbage, and is characterized by its wrinkled leaves. It is close-hearted, sweet and tender, especially the middle leaves. The savoy is in season from late autumn to spring, and is improved in flavour by frost. 24.— RABBIT BROTH. (Fr.— Bouillon de Lapin.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of water, i rabbit, i-J- Ib. of bacon or pickled pork, 2 onions, i carrot, £ a turnip, i strip of celery, i tablespoonful of rice, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the rabbit, and if it is to be served separately, keep it whole and truss for boiling (see Chapter on trussing); if not, cut it into small joints, and remove the liver, etc., If bacon be used, let it be well scraped, and soaked in warm water for i or 2 hours. Cut the vegetables into small dice or cubes. Put the water into a large stewpan, add the bacon and rabbit, bring slowly to the boil, remove the scum as it rises, and when the rabbit has cooked for i hour put in the vegetables, rice, and a little salt, and continue the cooking for another hour. Take out the rabbit, and if it is to be served separately, have ready some onion sauce, or white sauce, to serve with it. (See Sauces.) If the rabbit has been cut into joints, take them out of the stewpan, remove the meat from the bone, cut it into small dice, and return to the broth to be re-heated. Cut a little of the bacon also into dice: the rest can be used cold. Season to taste, and serve.

Time. — 2± to 2^ hours. Average Cost, 23. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Seasonable in Winter. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

25.— SCOTCH BROTH. (Fr.— Bouillon Ecossais.) Ingredients. — 3 quarts of cold water, 3 Ib. scrag end of mutton, i onion, i leek, i carrot, i turnip, a strip of celery, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 tablespoonfuls of Scotch barley, salt and

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Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, put them into a stewpan with the water and a teaspoonful of salt, and cook gently for 2 hours. Wash the barley, cut the vegetables into dice, add them to the broth and cook for another hour, making 3 hours in all. Strain and return the broth to the stewpan. Cut the meat into small pieces, carefully remove any fragments of bone from the vegetables and barley, and add them to the broth. When quite hot, season to taste, and serve.

Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Seasonable in Winter. THE SHEEP (Fr. brebis) has from the earliest times been one of the most useful of animals to man, its wool, skin and flesh supplying him respectively with material for clothing, leather and food; its milk in some countries is used for making butter and cheese. There are numerous varieties of the domestic sheep, a ruminant quadruped of the genus Otis: wild sheep are found chiefly in mountainous districts. The principal breeds of English sheep are the Southdown, Leicester, Cotswold, Cheviot and the Welsh. Of the numerous foreign breeds, the fat-tailed sheep of Asia and Egypt, the Astrakan, the Cretan, the Iceland and the Merino, are the most noticeable, the last named originally belonging to Spain, but now extensively bred in other countries of Europe and in Australia and New Zealand, furnishing the valuable merino wool. The flesh of the sheep, or mutton, is tender and easy of digestion, and possesses highly nutritive properties. Large quantities of foreign mutton are now imported into England principally from Australia and New Zealand by means of cold storage in transit. The New Zealand mutton is of excellent quality, and has an extensive sale. The small Welsh mutton is much esteemed. The quality of the flesh of the sheep is largely dependent on the pastorage and food stuffs on which it is fed.

26. —SHEEP'S HEAD BROTH. (Fr. Potage de Tete de Mouton.) Ingredients. — 3 quarts of water, i sheep's head, 2 carrots, 2 onions, i turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt, i tablespoonful of rice.

Method. — Remove the brains and tongue, and soak the head in salt and water for 12 hours, changing the water repeatedly. Put it into a large saucepan with a good handful of salt, cover with water, bring to the boil, strain, and wash well. Return it to the saucepan, add the water, and bring to the boil, skim thoroughly, add a teaspoonful of salt, then simmer for 3 hours. Meanwhile cut the vegetables into dice, and now add them and the rice to the broth. Continue the cooking for another hour, then take up the head, cut the meat into dice and return it to the broth and simmer for a few minutes. Take out the herbs, add seasoning to taste, and serve.

The brains can be used for brain cakes, and the tongue cooked and served separately. Only a small portion of the head need be served in the1 broth; the rest could be served separately, garnished with the tongue, and covered with brain sauce.

Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. Seasonable at any time, particularly in Winter, Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

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RECIPES FOR BROTHS 140 27.—SCOTCH KAIL. (Fr.— Potage au choux ecossais.) Ingredients.— 3 quarts of cold water, 3 Ib. of mutton, 3 onions (cut into dice or cubes), 2 leeks when procurable, the hearts of 2 white cabbages, salt and pepper, i oz. of pearl-barley. Method. — Keep the meat whole, and put it into a stewpan or earthenware stew pot with the water, onions, leeks, and a teaspoonful of salt, and cook gently for about 3 hours. Blanch the pearl-barley and add it when the meat has cooked for i hour. Wash the cabbages, shred them finely, and put them into the stewpot i hour before the meat is to be served. Take up the meat, cut some of it into small pi. and place these in a soup tureen. Season the broth, and s< Time. — About 3} hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2S. oxi. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

-- Scotch Kail is the Pot-au-feit of Scotland, and hkr its r.mtinmt.il pn.tMtype may have tin- nir.it -rrvr.l >,. -paratelv. Mr in ' I'-nt »t •in l'i>t-au-fiu in having only the rum \i--ft. il-Ic.s ln>m \\hKh it tie name ot " kail."

28.— VEAL BROTH. (Fr.— Bouillon de Veau.) Ingredients. — i quart of cold water, i| Ib. or knucl i small carrot, £ a turnip, i onion, i strip of celery, i teaspoonful of fun -ly -cluippt -il parsley, i tablespoonful of rice or pearl-barley,.UK! prpper.

Method. Cut the meat into small pieces, put them with the water iiiin a str\\pan, and bring slowly to the boil. Skim, add a li ly for i hour, then add tlilatter must be blanched), and tin- \ » -« -t.d.h > c ut; \Vhen !>n>ili has cooked • p 3 hours, strain and return to t. Add the in- broth. Carefully remove any fragments of bone from the vegetables and:ley, then return them to the Q boiling, sprinkle in the parsley, season to taste, and Time.— 3 to 3^ hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 3d. Seasonable at Clear Soups.

29.— BRUNOISE SOUP WITH TAPIOCA.

(/'>.— Consomm6 Brunoise au Tapioca.) Ingredients. — i carrot, i small turnip, i lettuce, i leek, | an onion, ', 3 pint:ne (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), a juice, i 1 tapi.ica, seasoning.

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Method. — Prepare the vegetables and cut them into very small dice or cubes. Fry lightly in the butter, add a good pinch of castor sugar, and salt and pepper to taste. Moisten with some of the consomme. Cook gently for about % an hour, skim, add the remainder of the consomme, and boil gently until the vegetables are tender. Soak the tapioca in tepid water, strain and put it in a stewpan with a little consomme, cook till tender, and mix it with the remainder of the soup a few minutes before sending to table, when a few drops of lemon juice should be added.

Time. — 1£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. per quart. Sufficient for 6 TAPIOCA (Fr. tapioca) is a preparation of cassava meal, made from a South American shrub of some 8 feet in height, with broad, shining leaves, and handsome white and rose-coloured flowers. The nutritious starch is obtained from the thick, fleshy, parsnip-like roots by the process of washing, maceration and pressure to express the juice, which, in its natural state, is poisonous. The cassava meal, while in the moist state, is made into flat cakes and heated and dried on hot plates. 30.— CLEAR BRUNOISE SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme Brunoise.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe 42 page 156), i carrot, i onion, i turnip, £ an oz. of butter, pepper and salt. Method. — Prepare the vegetables and cut them into very small dice or cubes, melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the dice of vegetables with a little salt and pepper, and fry very gently for a few minutes, shaking and tossing them frequently to prevent them taking colour. Drain well to free them from butter, add them to the hot soup and simmer gently for 1 5 minutes. Skim well.

Time. — To prepare and cook the vegetables, -| an hour. Average Cost, 33. 6d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons. 31.— CLEAR COLD CHICKEN SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme de Volaille Frappe.) Ingredients. — i old hen, i| Ib. of knuckle of veal, i| Ib. of shin of beef, salt, soup vegetables, 2 cloves, a few peppercorns, i oz. of butter, 1 glass of sherry.

Method. — Pluck and truss the fowl as for boiling, put the butter in a stewpan, and add the fowl whole as soon as the butter is hot; let it get a nice brown, then add the meat. Pour on about a gallon of water and set it to boil — it must come slowly to the boil, and remove the scum. Have the vegetables ready and well washed (they should include i onion stuck with 2 cloves, £ a head of celery, 2 carrots, i leek, 2 small turnips, i bay-leaf, and a parsley root, and put them in the stock. Add a little salt and the peppercorns, simmer gently for about 4 hours, or longer; skim occasionally. The fowl may be taken

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out after 2 hours cooking, and can be made use of for fhe cutlets. When the stock is finished carefully remove the fat from the top, and strain it through a fine hair sieve. If carefully cooked it will be quite clear, otherwise it will have to be clarified. Season to taste at the last and allow it to get cold, then stand it on the ice until required. The sherry should be added just before sending it to the table. This soup is, as its name implies, quite cold (iced). A handful of Royal Custard may be served in the consomme if liked.

Average Cost. — 55. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons. Seasonable'at any BASIL (Fr. basilic).— This aromatic plant is a native of the East Indies, its perfume resembling that of cloves. It is cultivated as an aromatic pot-herb, and its leaves are used for flavouring soup and as a salad, especially by French cooks.

32. -CLEAR DUBOURG SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme a la Dubourg.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup, a small savoury custard (see recipe for Consomme a la Royale, p. 155), i tablespoonful of cooked rice, i tablespoonful of cooked green peas.

Method. — Prepare the custard as directed, and add it with the peas and rice to the soup a few minutes before serving.

Time. — To prepare and cook the garnish, £ an hour. Average Cost 2s. pd. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons. 33.— CLEAR GAME SOUP, PALERMO STYLE.

(Fr. — Consomme de Gibier a la Palermo.) Ingredients.— For consomme: i grouse, | a rabbit, 2 Ib. of shin of beef, i Ib. of lean veal, £ Ib. of raw ham, 2 ozs. of dripping or butter, the bones and trimmings of the above meat, poultry, or game, soup vegetables, 2 blades of mace, 2 cloves, peppercorns, a small bunch of herbs (bouquet-garni), salt, 2£ quarts of water, cayenne pepper. For Garniture. — £ a head of celery, 2 ozs. of macaroni, game quenelles, cooked ham, i French roll, grated Parmesan cheese.

^ Method.— Remove the breasts from the grouse, and use for quenelles. Cut up the bird and rabbit into joints, and the beef and veal into pieces. Melt the dripping in a large stewpan, put in the bird, the rabbit and the meat, and fry till brown over a quick fire; pour off the fat, add the water and the ham, let it come to the boil, and skim. Put in the soup vegetables, consisting of a small onion stuck with cloves, a carrot, a turnip, and a few leaves of celery or leek, together with any trimmings bones of meat, etc. Now add the bouquet of herbs, mace, peppercorns, and a tablespoonful of salt, simmer gently for about 3 hours or

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longer; take out the ham when done, as some of it will be required for garnish. Special attention must be paid to the simmering and occasional skimming of the soup in order to keep it clear, otherwise it will require clarifying. Strain the soup through a cloth into a clean stewpan, and keep hot.

Prepare the garniture as follows: Cut the white portion of the celery into small dice or strips, cook in slightly salted water containing a small piece of butter. Cook the macaroni in salted water, cool and strain, then cut it into short pieces. Prepare some small quenelles with the breast of grouse and panada (a culinary paste of flour and water), and poach in a lit tie stock. Cut the cooked ham into strips or dice the same as the celery, and put these into the consomme to get thoroughly hot. Stamp out some small rounds of bread crust cut from the roll, put these in the soup tureen, pour over the consomme. Hand round the grated cheese on a plate.

Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 35. 8d., without the game. 34.— CLEAR JARDINIERE SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme a la Jardiniere.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 2 carrots, I turnip, \ a cucumber, salt.

Method. — Scrape the carrots, pare the turnip, but leave the skin on the cucumber, as the green has a pleasing effect when mixed with the other vegetables. Cut the vegetables (with a round cutter sold for the purpose) the size and shape of peas, and boil them separately in slightly salted water until tender, taking care not to cook them too much. Drain well, add the vegetables to the boiling soup, simmer for a few minutes, then serve.

Time. — To prepare and cook the vegetables, £ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 4d. Seasonable in Spring. Sufficient for 6 persons. 35.— CLEAR JULIENNE SOUP. (Tr.— Consomme a la Julienne.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156),! carrot, i onion, £ a turnip, a strip of celery, pepper and salt, £ an oz. of Method. — Prepare the vegetables and cut them into fine strips like small matches, melt the butter in a small saucepan, put in the strips of vegetable with a little salt and pepper, and fry gently for a few minutes, shaking frequently to prevent browning. Drain well to free them from butter, add them to the hot soup, and simmer gently for 15 or 20 minutes, keeping the soup well skimmed.

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Time.— To prepare and cook the vegetables, 40 minutes. Average Cost, 25. 4d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons. —A tablespoonful of cooked green peas, and the same quantity of cooked French beans cut in narrow strips, may be added to the other s. Instead of frying them in butter they (the turnip, carrot, onion. may be parboiled in salt and water, and afterwards simmered until tender in the stock.

36.— CLEAR LEAFY SOUP.

(Fr. — Consomme aux Mille Feuilles.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts consomme (see Recipe No..\2, \\ is<>\ 107. soft breadcrumbs, i oz. grated Parmesan cheese, 2 eggs, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt.

Method.— Mix the breadcrumbs and cheese in a basin, beat up the eggs and stir them into the above; beat up well for a few minutes, and add the seasoning. Drop the mixture by means of a funnel into the boiling consomme, and allow it to simmer for about 5 minutes. By this time the broth will become clear again. It is then ready for serving. Time.— About £ hour. Average Cost, 33. Sufficient for 8 persons. 37.— CLEAR MOCK TURTLE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Tortue Fausse Clair.) Ingredients. — \ a calf's head, 5 quarts of clear second st<« \ecipe No. 7,p. 140), ior water), 2 onions, 2 carrots, i turnip, i strip of cd bnu«|iiet garni.parsley, b.isil, marjoram, thyme, luv l«-al, i corns, 4 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 2 glasses of sherry, i taH. spoonful of lemon juice, £ a Ib. of lean n veal, the whites ami shells of 2 eggs, salt.

Method. — Soak the head 24 hours in salt and water, changing it frequently. Then bone the head (the brains and tongue may be used for some other purpose), tie the meat in a thin cloth and break the bones into small pieces; put them into a stewpan, cover with cold water, add a tablespoonful of salt, let it boil up, strain, and wash the head in 1 water. Keturn the meat and bones to the stewpan, put in the !v and a oonful of salt, boil up, and skim well. Now add the pit-pared vegetables, herbs, peppercorns, cloves and mace, and when boiling, remove the scum, put on the cover and cook slowly for about 3 hours, according to the size of the head. Strain, put th i.le, and when the stock is cold remove the f.tt, and clarify with the coai chopped beef and veal, and whites of eggs, see recipe No. 10. Return to the saucepan, with the sherry, the lemon-juice and a little of the the head, cut into small pieces. Add necessary seasoning, boil up and S

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This recipe may be thickened with a tablespoonful of arrowroot when a thicker soup is required.

The remainder of the calf's head can be used for an entree. Time. — To prepare the stock, 3^ to 4 hours. To clarify and re-heat, 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost. 53. 9d. with stock. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 12 or 14 persons.

MARJORAM (Fr. marjolaine). — The common marjoram is indigenous to Britain, and grows on chalky soils. Its flowers are reddish in colour, growing in clustered spikes. It possesses balsamic, aromatic and bitter properties, and from the plant is obtained " oil of thyme." Sweet and pot marjoram, natives of southern Europe, are cultivated in gardens for culinary use; the young tops and leaves, both green and dried, are used for seasoning.

38.— CLEAR MULLIGATAWNY. (Fr.— Consomme a Tlndienne.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock (see Recipe No. 7, p. 140), 2 onions, sliced, i apple, sliced, i tablespoonful of mild curry powder, % a tablespoonful of salt, the whites and shells of 2 eggs, the juice of i lemon.

Method. — Put the stock, onions, apples, curry powder (previously mixed smoothly with a little cold water), and salt into a wrell-tinned stewpan, put on the cover and simmer gently for i£ hours, then strain. When cold, add the egg-shells crushed and the whites stiffly whipped, let the soup boil up again and simmer for a few minutes, then strain, re-heat, add the lemon-juice and any necessary seasoning, and serve, with boiled rice, handed round separately or put in the soup. When convenient, a little cooked chicken should also be served, cut into dice or cubes, and warmed in the soup a few minutes before serving. Time. — To make the soup, i£ to i£ hours. To clear and re-heat the soup, 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Seasonable at any time. 39.— CLEAR MULLIGATAWNY. (Fr.— Consomme a Tlndienne.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, 2 small onions, sliced, i sour apple, sliced, 2 oz. of lean raw ham or bacon, the bones of any roast game or poultry, i dessertspoonful of mild curry powder, i dessertspoonful of curry paste, i teaspoonful of chutney, i tablespoonful of lemon juice, i teaspoonful of salt, the whites and shells of 2 eggs, i oz. of butter. Method. — Fry the onions, apple, curry powder, ham (cut into small pieces), bones and any trimmings of poultry there may be, in the butter until nicely browned, then add the stock, salt, curry paste, chutney, and simmer gently for about i hour; strain, and when cold remove

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the fat. Clarify with the shells and whites of eggs as in the preceding recipe, re-heat, add the lemon-juice, and serve with boiled rice. Time. — To make the soup, i|- to i£ hours. To clarify and re-heat, 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient 40.— CLEAR OXTAIL SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Queue de Bceuf, clair.) Ingredients. — i oxtail, i carrot, \ a turnip, i onion, i strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay -leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, i blade of mace, 3 quarts of CLEAR second stock, salt, the whites and shells of 2 eggs.

Method. — Cut the tail into short lengths, cover with cold water, add a little salt, bring to the boil and strain. Return to the saucepan with the vegetables, flavourings, and seasonings, simmer gently for four hours, keeping the stewpan covered, strain, put the meat aside, and when the stock is cold remove the fat. Clarify with the whites and shells of the eggs, strain, re-heat, and serve garnished with pieces of the tail, and a little carrot and turnip cooked and cut into some fancy shape. A glass of sherry is sometimes added when re-heating, also a tablespoonful of arrowroot, previously mixed smoothly with a little stock, when a slightly- thickened " clear " soup is desired. Time. — To make the soup, from 4 to 4^ hours. To clarify and heat, 30 to 40 minutes. Cost. — 2S. pd. to 35. 3d. Seasonable at any time. Note. — The larger pieces of tail should be re-heated in brown sauce, or a good curry sauce, and served as a dish for luncheon. 41.— CLEAR ROYAL SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme a la Royale.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), i egg, i tablespoonful of milk or white stock, salt and pepper. Method. — Beat the egg, add the milk, salt and pepper to taste, and pour the custard into a well-buttered plain mould. Have ready a small stewpan half full of boiling water, put in the custard, cover the top of the mould with greased paper, put on a close-fitting lid to keep in the steam, and cook VERY SLOWLY for 15 minutes, or until the custard is firm. When cold, cut into strips, rounds, diamonds or any fancy shape, rinse in warm water, then put them into the tureen and pour in the hot consomme. Or to make a change, use one yolk and the whites of 2 eggs. To the yolk and each white add a dessertspoonful of good white stock or milk, season to taste, and colour one white of egg

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with carmine or cochineal. Cook in 3 separate small timbals or dariol moulds, and use as directed above.

Time. — To prepare and cook the custard, \ an hour. Average Cost, 33. 4d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons. 42.— CLEAR SOUP. (Fr. Consomme.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of brown stock, i Ib. of neck of beef (lean) finely chopped, or passed two or three times through the mincing machine, the whites and shells of 4 eggs, i carrot, cut in two or three pieces, i onion (left whole), a strip of celery, 12 peppercorns, 6 allspice, 2 cloves, salt.

Method. — The stock should be cold and quite free from fat. Put it into a clean well-tinned stewpan, add the vegetables, flavourings, seasonings, the shells of the eggs crushed and the whites stiffly whipped, and whisk all together over a gentle fire until just on boiling point, then let it simmer about £ an hour. Strain through a clean dry cloth, re-heat and season to taste before serving. A glass of sherry, a dessertspoonful of French vinegar or lemon-juice and a pinch of castor sugar, are frequently added when re-heating the consomme. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 33. to 35. 6d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons.

43. -CLEAR SOUP, PORTUGUESE STYLE.

(Fr. — Consomme a la Portugaise.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts consomme, i large ripe tomato, \ an oz. of butter, 12 French plums, i small leek, a pinch of cayenne. Method. — Wash the plums, put them in cold water with a little salt, bring to the boil, strain, and rinse in cold water; return to the stewpan in which they were blanched, add sufficient clear stock to well cover, and cook slowly till tender. Wash and clean the leek, cut it into fine shreds or Julienne shaped strips about i inch long, wash well in cold water, drain, and cook for a few minutes with the butter, pour in some clarified stock or consomme, and cook slowly till tender. Carefully remove all the fat, pour in the consomme, and let it simmer for a few minutes. Put the plums in the soup tureen. Blanch and skin the tomato, cut it up into very small pieces or dice, free from pips, and put these also into the soup tureen. Add a pinch of cayenne pepper to taste, pour on the consomme, and serve.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 45. 2d. Sufficient for 8 persons. 44.— CLEAR SOUP WITH FRIED QUENELLES.

(Fr. — Consomme aux Quenelles Frites.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe No. 42), % of a Ib. of leg -of veal, or raw chicken, £ an oz. of flour, £ of an oz. of but-

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ter, a tablespoonful of good white stock, a teaspoonful of cream, £ an egg, salt and pepper to taste.

Method. — Mince the veal finely, or pass it through the mincing machine 2 or 3 times. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir in the flour, add the stock, and cook until it leaves the sides of the saucepan clear and forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon: this is called a panada. Let it cool slightly, pound it and the veal well together, add the half egg and seasoning, pound until well mixed together, then rub through a wire sieve. Mix in the cream, shape into small marbles, fry in a little hot butter or fat, drain well, and add them to the soup just before serving.

Time. — To make and cook the quenelle mixture, 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 35. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 Note. — This mixture may also be shaped in small teaspoons or eggspoons, and poached in a little boiling water before being added to the soup. 45.— CLEAR SOUP WITH ITALIAN PASTE.

(Fr. — Consomme aux Pates d' Italic.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), i t spoonful of Italian paste (bought in packets).

Method. — Sprinkle the paste into the boiling soup, and cook it for a few minutes before serving. Crushed tapioca, sago or Florador may be used instead of the paste, also macaroni, vermicelli or spaghetti, but these must be cooked and cut into short lengths before being added to the soup.

Time. — To cook the Italian paste, 10 minutes. Average Cost, 35. 46. -CLEAR SOUP WITH RIBBON MACARONI.

(Fr. — Consomme aux Nouilles.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of clear soup, 4 ozs. of fine flour, i dessertspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, i egg, i saltspoonful of salt. Method. — Mix the flour, cheese and salt well together, add hall 11 and, if necessary, a little water. Knead it vigorously with the palm of the hand until a fairly stiff but smooth paste is formed; it must not be too moist, and should have a tenacious elastic consistency. Wrap in a floured cloth and let it stand for i hour or more, then roll out VERY thinly on a floured board, cut into narrow strips, and cook a few at a time, in salted boiling water. Strain and drain and add a handful to the consomme a few minutes before serving.

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Time. — \ an hour to cook the paste. Average Cost, 35. 3d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.

Note. — The remainder of Nouilles or Ribbon Macaroni can be heated up with White Sauce, and done au gratin, to be served for a luncheon or supper dish. 47.— CLEAR TURTLE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage Tortue Clair.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of the best sun-dried turtle, i small tin of turtle fat (this may be omitted), -| a Ib. of lean neck of beef, \ a Ib. of lean veal, the whites and shells of 2 eggs, 5 quarts of good stock, 2 onions, 2 carrots, i turnip, i strip of celery, bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, basil, marjoram), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, i blade of mace (tied in muslin), 2 glasses of sherry, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, salt. Method. — Soak the turtle for 3 days, changing the water frequently. Put the stock, turtle, and a dessertspoonful of salt into a large stewpan and bring to the boil, then add the prepared vegetables, herbs, bag of peppercorns, etc., and when the stock boils remove the scum as it rises. Put on the cover and cook gently for 8 or 9 hours, adding more stock if that in the pan reduces very much. Strain, put the pieces of turtle aside, and remove the fat from the soup when cold. Pass th< beef and veal 2 or 3 times through the mincing machine, and add them together with the shells and stiffly-whipped whites of the eggs to the soup, and whisk until it boils. Simmer gently for •£ an hour, then strain and return to the stewpan with the turtle and turtle fat cut into small squares, adding sherry, lemon-juice, and the necessary seasoning, am cook gently for a few minutes. Lemons cut in quarters are sometim< handed separately with this soup for those who prefer a stronger flavoui of lemon.

Time. — To make the stock, 9 to 10 hours. To clarify and re-heat, i£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, 8s. 6d. without stock. Seasonable at an] time. Sufficient for 10 persons.

48._ COCK-A-LEEKIE SOUP.

Ingredients. — A small fowl for boiling, i carrot, i turnip, i onion, 2 cloves, i small bunch of young leeks, 2 ozs. of rice, salt and pepper. Method. — Truss the fowl for boiling, put it in a large stewpan stock-pot, with enough water to well cover it, add a little salt, and let it come to the boil. Remove the scum, then add the carrot, turnip (previously cleaned), and the onion, peeled and stuck with the cloves. When the fowl is tender take it out. Wash the leeks, trim off the roots and outside leaves, and cut into i-inch lengths. Strain the broth (which should measure about 3 pints) into another stewpan, add the leeks and the rice, previously washed and blanched. Boil for about £ an hour, season to taste, cut the fowl in half, divide one half into very

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small pieces and put these with the soup. Use the remainder for some other purpose. Before serving, add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley to the soup. If preferred, the fowl need not be served in the soup, but it is essential that this soup should be made from chicken Time, about i£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. lod. Sufficient for 6 persons. 49.— CUSTARD FOR SOUP. (Fr.— Garniture Royale.) Ingredients. — 2 whole eggs, 2 yolks of eggs, i gill of white stock, salt Method. — Beat up the eggs in a basin, add the stock, and season with salt and pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Strain this into a well-buttered plain tin mould; stand it in a stewpan containing a little boiling water, cover the mould with a buttered paper, and let it poach in a moderately heated oven for 20 minutes. When done, take out the mould and put in a cool place. Turn out when cold, and cut the custard into dice, cubes, or other fanciful shapes (known as Royal). Use for garnish in clear or thick soups.

Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 quarts of soup. Seasonable at any time.

50.— PRINCE'S SOUP. (.Fr.— Consomme aux Navets.^ Ingredients. — 3 pints of boiling clear soup, (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156.) £ of a pint of turnip garnish, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas, i dessertspoonful of finely-shredded truffle, salt and pepper. Method.— Scoop the turnip into rounds the same size as the peas, and cook them until tender but not broken. Season the stock to taste, add the prepared turnip, peas and truffle, make thoroughly hot, and Time. — £ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons. 51.— RICE SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme au Riz.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of consomme, (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 2 ozs. of Patna rice, salt and pepper.

Method. — Throw the rice into boiling water, let it cook rapidly for 5 minutes, then wash and drain it well. Bring the stock to boilingpoint, add salt and pepper to taste, and put in the rice. Simmer gently until the rice is quite tender, then serve.

Time.— From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 6

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52. — SAGO SOUP. (Fr. — Consomme au Sagou.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of consomme (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), i£ oz. of fine sago, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the sago in 2 or 3 waters. Boil up the stock, sprinkle in the sago, boil gently until it becomes transparent, then season to Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2S. 3d. Sufficient for 6 per53.— SEMOLINA SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme auSemoule.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of consomme (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), i£ oz. of semolina, salt and pepper.

Method. — Boil up the stock, and sprinkle in the semolina. Cook gently for 20 minutes, stirring almost continuously, then season to Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 SEMOLINA (Fr. semoule). — A wheat meal, prepared from the large grains of the hard wheats of southern Europe by a special process of milling, which produces a very white coarse Hour, rich in gluten, rendering semolina a valuable flesh-forming food. It is used for thickening soups, puddings, etc.

54.— SOLFERINO SOUP. (Fr.— Consomme Solferino.) Ingredients. — i quart of clear soup, (see Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 2 ozs. of choux paste.

Method. — Make the stock and choux paste as directed, and season the latter well with salt and pepper. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat, dip into it the bowl of a small teaspoon, fill it with choux paste, and smooth the surface with a knife previously dipped into the hot fat. As the shapes are formed drop them into the fat, and fry them slowly until crisp and lightly browned. Drain well, and add them to the soup when on the point of serving.

Time. — About 15 minutes, to fry the shapes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. 55.—SPRING SOUP. (Fr.— Potage PrintaniSre.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of unclarified stock, £ gill each of green peas, french beans, asparagus tops, and chopped lettuce, i young carrot, i small onion, a bouquet garni, £lb. of gravy beef, the white of i egg; seasoning.

Method. — Prepare the vegetables, and scoop out some small pea shapes of carrot. Cook all the vegetables separately in salted water. Put the

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stock into a pan with the onion, herbs, finely minced meat, seasoning and white of egg. Whisk till it boils, then simmer for 10 minutes. Strain and reheat. Add the prepared vegetables and serve. Time.— i hour. Average Cost, 2s.9d. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable in April and May.

56.— TRANSPARENT SOUP.

Ingredients. — 4 Ib. of knuckle of veal, 2 ozs. of blanched almonds finely-chopped, i£ oz. of vermicelli crushed, i blade of mace, salt and pepper, 3 quarts of water.

Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, break up the bones, put both into a large stewing-jar, and add the water, prepared almonds, mace, and a little salt and pepper. Cook slowly on the stove or in the oven until reduced to 4- the original quantity, then strain. \Vlicii cold, remove every particle of fat, boil up the stock, sprinkle in the vermicelli, simmer gently for 10 or 15 minutes, then season to taste, and Time. — To prepare the stock, 8 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. Sufficient 57.—VERMICELLI SOUP. (Fr— Consomme Vermicelle.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of consomme, (sec Recipe No. 42, p. 156), 2 rmicelli, salt and pepper.

Method. Crush the vermicelli between the fingers into short K; Bring the stock to boiling point, sprinkle in the vermicelli, boil;. (or i 5 minutes, then season to taste, and serve. Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. ^d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 ns. Seasonable at any time.

trooi in a fine, thread-like form, with the addiK-tfse.

Thick Soups.

58.— BARLEY SOUP. (Fr.— Potage Creme d'Orge.) Ingredients. — i pint of white second stock, i pint of milk, i dessert:ul of flour, i oz. of butter, salt and pepper, croutons of fried bread, 2 tablespoonfuls of fine crushed barley, sold in pai kets under the name of " Creme d'Orge."

Method, - r.oil th<- sin. k and milk together in a saucepan, melt the butler, stir in the Hour, add the stork and milk and stir until it boils.

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Sprinkle in the barley, stir and cook until the mixture becomes transparent (about 10 minutes). Season to taste, and serve. The croutons (small slices of bread cut into shapes) should be either fried in hot fat or cut from thin slices of toast. They should be handed separately, unless directions are given to put them into the soup before serving. Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Cost, 4d. to $d. without the stock. Seasonable at all times. Sufficient for 4 persons.

Note. — Rice and tapioca, finely crushed and ground, may also be bought in packets, and will be found useful preparations for soups of this class. When not easily obtainable, ground rice, Florador, or Semolina will be found good substitutes. The well-known " Potage Creme de Riz " can be made from this recipe, using creme de riz instead of creme d'orge; and either soup can be made richer by omitting the flour, and butter, and in their place using the yolks of 2 eggs, and 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, which should be added to the soup a few minutes before serving.

59.— BARLEY SOUP (Another Method).

(Fr. — Potage Crime d'Orge.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of white second stock, i pint of milk, i -Jounces of pearl-barley, i£ oz. of butter, i oz. of corn-flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, croutons of fried or toasted bread.

Method. — Wash the pearl-barley until the water is clear, drain, put it and the stock into a stewpan, boil up, and simmer gently for 3 hours, stirring occasionally. Rub through a hair or fine wire sieve, return to the stewpan, add the milk and seasoning, and bring to the boil. Knead the corn-flour and butter together, put the mixture into the soup and stir until it becomes smoothly united with it. Add the nutmeg if liked, place the croutons of fried bread in the tureen, pour in the soup, and serve.

Time. — 3^ to 4 hours. Average Cost. — 4d. to 5d. without the stock. BARLEY (Fr.: Orge). — This well known plant, which is a genus (hordeum) of the order Gramince, or Grasses, is probably the first cereal cultivated by man. It was grown in Egypt and Palestine in the earliest recorded times, and Homer makes reference to it. The ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Germans made beer from barley. The grain is principally used for making malt, from which beer, porter, and whiskey are manufactured. Scotch barley is prepared by removing the husks of the grain and pearl-barley by the further process of polishing and rounding the grain. Barley-water, a concoction of pearl-barley, owing to its emollient and diluent properties, forms a valuable medicine, for patients of weak digestion. The constituents of barley in 100 parts are: — Starch, 79; glutin, 6; sugar, 7; husk, 8.

60.— CABBAGE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage aux Choux.) Ingredients. — 2 small young cabbages (finely shredded), i tablespoonful of finely chopped onion, i teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, 2 pints of boiling water, i pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of crushed tapioca (sold in packets), or fine sago, i teaspoonful of salt, £ of a teaspoonful of pepper, i oz. of butter.

Method. — Cover the shredded cabbage with boiling water, bring to the boil and strain. Return the cabbage to the saucepan, add to it 2 pints of boiling water, the milk, onion, parsley, butter, salt and pepper,

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and boil gently for 15 minutes. Sprinkle in the tapioca and cook for about 10 minutes longer, or until the tapioca becomes transparent, Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to /d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 8 persons.

CABBAGE (Fr.: Chou).— This valued vegetable, so largely used for culinary purposes, is cultivated in almost every temperate region of the globe, and in its wild state grows on the rocky shores of our own island, and still more extensively on the shores of Southern Europe. There are numerous varieties or " sports " of the common cabbage, as the Savoy cabbage, kohl Rabi, the Portugal cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, and seakale, which are grown for the table, and cooked in various Red or purple cabbage is used for pickling. The cabbage is one of the least nutritious of les, as it contains about 90 per cent, of water. Sauer-kraut, a popular dish in Germany, is prepared by packing white cabbages, cut into small pieces, into a cask with layers of salt, mixed with caraway and juniper berries. When fermented, it is eaten with meat. 61.— CALVES' TAIL SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Queue Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, 2 calves' tails, 2 ozs. of butter, 1 1 ozs. of flour, i onion sliced, i small carrot sliced, a bouquet -garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a small blade of mace, 2 cloves, i glass of sherry, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash, blanch and dry the tails, and divide them into sections. Boil the stock, add the prepared tails and vegetables, season to taste, put in the mace and cloves, and cover closely. Simmer very gently from i£ to i£ hours, or until the tails are sufficiently cooked. Meanwhile melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and stir and cook slowly until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Strain the stock and add it to the flour, and stir over the fire until the whole is well blended. Add the pieces of tail, a few shreds of onion and carrot, the si and more seasoning if required. Make thoroughly hot, then scr Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s., exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. CALF (Fr. vtau).— The name given to the younc "f «.ittle. When under two months of ace the flesh is called veal, and yields a large quantity of soluble extract, and is, therefore much used for broths and soups.

62.— COTTAGE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage a la Paysanne.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of lean neck of beef, £ of a Ib. of streaky bacon, i onion, i carrot, £ a turnip, 2 Ib. of potatoes, 2 ozs. of dripping, i tablespoonful of rice, salt, pepper, and 2 quarts of water. Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, the bacon into dice or cubes, \nd the soup vegetables into thin slices. Melt the fat in a stewpan, fry <con, meat and onion until nicely brouned, then add the sliced Mrs, the water, salt and pepper, cover closely and simmer for i lour. Meanwhile the potatoes should have been pr arge, cut in two. Add them to the soup, and when tl been:ooking £ an hour sprinkle in the rice. Cook gently for another ^

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hour (2 hours altogether), and if the potatoes and rice are tender, season the soup to taste and serve.

Time. — 2^ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. Seasonable at any time. 63.— ENDIVE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage au Chicoree.) Ingredients. — 1| Ib. of knuckle of veal, free from bone, poultry giblets (pd. or is. worth), i onion, 2 cloves, i turnip, i carrot, i small bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 endives (large heads), 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, yolks of 2 eggs, i| gills of cream, seasoning, nutmeg, salt and pepper, ground mace, paprika pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into pieces, wash and clean the giblets; put all in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover, about 2 quarts, add a teaspoonful of salt, and bring to the boil. Skim well. Peel the onion, insert the cloves, peel or scrape the turnip and carrot; add these to the above, also the bouquet-garni. Boil for about i£ hours or longer, and strain. Trim, wash and drain the endives, cut them into fine shreds, blanch and drain. Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan, add the endives, and stir over the fire for 5 minutes. Moisten with sufficient stock, and cook until tender, then put it into the prepared stock. Allow this to boil up. Melt the remainder of the butter, stir in the flour, cook a little, and moisten with a little cold milk. Pour this into the soup, and continue to cook the whole a little longer, then pass through a fine sieve. Return to the stewpan, season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg, also a tiny pinch of ground mace and paprika. Put the cream and egg-yolks into the soup tureen, beat up well, and pour the boiling soup gradually into the tureen. The soup is then ready for table.

Average Cost. — 33. 6d. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable from October to April.

ENDIVE (Fr. chicoree). — The curled leaves of this plant— known also as " garden succory "—when blanched are used for soups, stews and in salads. The endive, which belongs to the Chic<» Lettuce division of the Compositae, is a native of China, but grows well in Britain, where it wu.-- introduced in the sixteenth century. From one species the chicory used in the adulteration of u/flee is obtained.

64.— FLEMISH SOUP. (Fr.— Potage a la Flamande.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of boiling stock or water, -£ a pint of milk, 2 Ib. of potatoes sliced, \ a head of celery cut into short pieces, 2 onions sliced, 3 ozs. of butter or fat, salt and pepper.

Method. — Heat the butter in a large saucepan, add the prepared vegetables, cover closely, and cook gently for £ an hour, stirring or shaking the ingredients occasionally. Add the boiling stock or \vaitr

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and a seasoning of salt and pepper, boil gently until the potatoes are soft, then rub the whole through a wire sieve. Re-heat, add the milk, season to taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.

Time. — From i-J- to if hours. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable at any time. 65.— GIBLET SOUP. (Fr.— Potage aux Abatis.) Ingredients. — The giblets of a goose, turkey, ducks, or chickens, to one set allow i Ib. of lean beef, and 3 pints of stock or 2 pints of water, % a carrot, i small onion, I strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i oz. of butter, i dessertspoonful of flour, £ a glass of sherry, salt, pepper, i tablespoonful of macaroni, cooked and cut across into tiny rings.

Method. — Skin the gizzard, scald and skin the feet, wash the neck and liver, dry and cut into small pieces. Melt the butter and fry the giblets, meat and sliced vegetables until brown, then add the stock, herbs, salt and pepper, and when boilin-j, skim well. Cook gently fur 2 hours, then strain and return to the stewpan. \Yhcn builiiu', mix the sherry and the Hour smoothly together and add to the sou]), also the macaroni and any necessary seasoning, simmer a few minutes longer, and serve.

Time. — 2| to 3 hours. Cost, exclusive of the giblets and stock, 13. to is. 2d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. 56.— GOOD WOMAN'S SOUP. (Fr— Potage a la Bonne Femme.) Ingredients, i quart of white stock, i white-heart lettuce, i thick slice of cucumber (the length of which must equal the breadth of the:ucumbcr, so that a square block may be cut), a little tarragon and:hervil (these may be omitted when not easily procurable), i oz. of jutter, the yolks of 2 eggs, £ of a pint of cream or milk, salt and Copper.

Method. AVash and shred the lettuce finely, cut the block of cucumbi-r efigthwise into thin slices, and the slices into match-like strips. Melt itter, and iry the vegetables for 5 or 6 minutes, then add the:id pepper, and boil slowly until the lettuce is tender (10 to 15 "inui- t the yolks of the eggs, add to them the cream or milk. x*t the soup cool slightly, then pour in the yolks and cream, and stir mtil the soup thickens, but it MUST NOT BOIL or the eggs will curdle. Time. — To prepare and cook, about 40 minutes. Cost, 2S. to 2s. 3d. Seasonable almost at any time. Sufficient for 4 persons.

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67.— GRAVY SOUP. (Fr.— Potage au Jus.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of second stock or gravy stock, i Ib. of neck or shin of beef (lean), i carrot, i onion, £ a turnip, i strip of celery, bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 8 peppercorns, 2 cloves, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces. Make the butter hot in the stewpan, put in the meat and sliced vegetables, and fry until brown. Add the stock, herbs, peppercorns, cloves, and seasoning, and cook very gently for 2^ to 3 hours, strain, return to the saucepan, boil up, mix the flour smoothly with a little cold stock, pour it into the soup, simmer 5 minutes longer, add seasoning to taste, and serve. Time. — 3^ to 4 hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. without the stock. 68.— GUMBO SOUP. (Fr.— Potage Gombo.) Ingredients. — i quart okras, 3 pints beef stock (see Recipe No. 3, p. 139), 6 tomatoes, £ pint Lima beans, salt, pepper, i tablespoonful of chopped parsley.

Method. — Mince the okras, and cook them in the stock with the sliced tomatoes and the beans. When tender, rub all through a fine sieve, re-heat, season with salt and pepper, and add i tablespoonful of chopped parsley.

Time. — i hour. Average Cost, 23. 6d. to 35. Seasonable at any time. 69.— HARE SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Lievre.) Ingredients. — 3 quarts of second stock, i hare or the bones and inferior parts of a hare, 2 ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of cornflour, i small onion, i small carrot, \ a small turnip, i strip of celery, a bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 1 2 peppercorns, i glass of port wine, Method. — Wipe the hare with a clean damp cloth and cut it into small joints. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the hare, the vegetables sliced, and the herbs, and fry until brown. Add the stock, salt and peppercorns, and simmer gently for 3 hours. Strain, remove the meat from the bones, and pound it well in a mortar. Rub it through a fine sieve, then return it and the stock to the stewpan, and when boiling add the wine and the cornflour, previously mixed smoothly together. Stir and cook for a few minutes, season to taste, and serve. Time. — 4 hours. Average Cost, 43. to 53., when made from a whole hare, not including the stock. Seasonable from August to March.

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70.— HARE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Lievre.) Ingredients.— A hare fresh killed, i Ib. of gravy beef, \ lb. of raw lean ham, i oz. of butter, i tablespoonful of well-browned flour, i mediumsized onion stuck with 3 cloves, i small carrot sliced, \ of a pint of port wine or \ pint of good stout, salt and pepper, 3 quarts of water. Method.— Skin and paunch the hare, saving as much blood as possible. Divide it into small pieces, put them into a stew-jar, add the beef and ham cut into small pieces, the blood and liver of the hare, the water, onion, carrot, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover closely, and cook gently, either on the stove or in the oven, for 5 or 6 hours. Meanwhile brown the flour either in a clean ir\ -in-. or on a plate in the oven, let it cool, then blend it smoothly with the butter. Form into small balls, and add them with the wine or stout to the contents of the stew-jar about i hour before serving. Strain, add the best parts of the hare, season to taste, and serve. Time.— From 5 4- to 6\ hours. Average Cost, 6s. to 8s. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons. Seasonable in winter.

THE COMMON HARE (Fr. litu'e) is found in all parts of Europe, and in some parts of Asia. Its fur is tawny-red in the back and white underneath; in winter the colour of the mountain hare of Northern Europe changes to white. The average length of the hare is about two feet, and it varies from 8 lb. to 14 lb. The flesh is dark and dry, and devoid of fat, but its flavour esteemed. When old the ears of the hare are dry and tough, the haunches thick, and the claw and blunt. The ears of young hares tear easily, and its claws are both smooth and sharp. The hare is noted for its timidity, but, as a protection from its enemies, it possesses great acuteness of hearing, and remarkable swiftness of foot. The hare and rabbit are typical examples of the rodent quadrupeds of the genus Ltf>us.

71.— HUNTER'S SOUP. (Fr.— Potage a la Chasseur.) Ingredients. — 5 pints of second stock or water, the remains of pheasants, partridges or other game, 4 ozs. of raw lean ham, 3 ozs. of butter, i \ oz. of flour, i onion sliced, i small carrot sliced, i or 2 strips of celery shredded, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper. Method. — Heat half the butter in a stewpan, add the game divided into small pieces, the ham, the prepared vegetables, and the bouquet garni, and cook slowly for \ an hour, turnim; or shaking the ingredients frequently. Add the stock or water and seasoning of salt and pepper, cover closely, and simmer gently for j hours. Meanwhile heat the remainder of the butter, add the flour, and cook gently until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Strain the stock on to it, stir and boil gently until quite smooth, then garnish with a few strips of game and vegetables, season to taste, and serve.

Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d., in addition to the game and stock. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable in winter. 72.— KIDNEY SOUP. (Fr.— Potage aux Rognons.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of second stock or water, £ lb. ox kidney

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£ Ib. of lean beef, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i tablespoonful of coarsely chopped onion, £ a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and Method. — Cut the meat and kidney into very small pieces. Melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry the meat, kidney, parsley, and onion until brown. Put in the stock or water, salt and pepper, bring to the boil, skim well, then cover, and simmer gently for 3 hours. Strain, pound the meat if convenient, if not, rub as much as possible of it through a wire sieve. Return the soup to the saucepan, and when boiling add the puree of meat, and the flour (previously mixed smoothly with a little water), simmer for a few minutes, and serve. If preferred, the soup may be garnished with a little carrot and turnip, cooked and cut into some small fancy shape.

Time. — From 4 to 4^ hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 4 persons.

73.— LIEBIG SOUP.

Ingredients. — i pint of stock, i teaspoonful " Lemco " salt and pepper, any garnish that is seasonable or liked.

Method. — This can be made thick or clear. It is quickly prepared, and is very tasty as well as nourishing. To every pint of thick or clear soup add i teaspoonful of Liebig's Extract of Meat, called " Lemco," stir until it boils, and serve hot. This soup may be varied to any extent by adding such vegetables as carrots, turnips, celery, green peas, asparagus, vermicelli or macaroni as a garnish. Bone stock or gravy stock does well for this soup.

Time. — 5 minutes to make the soup. Average cost, without garnish, about 6d.

74.— MACARONI SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Macaroni.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of stock made from the bones and trimmings of meat (see Bone Soup), i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of macaroni, Method. — Put the macaroni into boiling salted water and boil quickly until tender (20 to 30 minutes), then cut it into short lengths. Boil the stock, knead the flour and the butter together, add the compound to the stock, and stir until it becomes smoothly mixed with it. Season to taste, put in the macaroni, cook for 5 minutes, and serve. Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, about 2d. without the stock. MACARONI (Fr. macaroni).— In Italy, and especially with Neapolitans, macaroni is a popular article of food It is prepared from hard varieties of wheat, which is ground to a fine meal and m.i<if into a stiff paste with a small quantity of water. The mass, placed in a hollow, cylindrical v< • I. is squeezed through apertures of various sizes by means of a powerful screw. That pressed through

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fine holes is called vermicelli. While issuing from the holes, the macaroni is partially baked by a tire placed below the cylinder, and at the same time it is drawn away and hung over r--d> to dry either by artificial heat or in the sun; the sun-dried macaroni is esteemed the best. Macaroni is a nutritious and wholesome food, and is u?ed for thickening soups, for puddings, and other forms rv. Macaroni paste rolled out into flat cakes is cut into various shapes and devices, and sold under the designation of " pastes."

75.— MILK SOUP. (Fr.— Potage au Lait.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of boiling milk, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of Hour, | a small white cabbage finely shredded, salt and pepper. Method. — Heat the butter in an enamelled or well-lined saucepan, add the cabbage, and let it cook gently for 15 or 20 minutes. Now add the boiling milk, simmer gently for about 10 minutes, then stir in the flour, which must previously have been smoothly blended with a little cold water. Stir and boil gently for 6 or 7 minutes, then season to taste, and serve.

Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 6 persons. 76.— MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. (Fr.— Potage a rindienne.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of water, 2 Ib. of mutton (a tin of Australian mutton may be used), 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 apples, i small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, i tablespoonful of curry powder, the juice of ^ a lemon, salt. Method.— Remove the fat from the mutton and melt it in the saucepan. Have the apples and vegetables ready sliced, and when tl suiticient liquid fat to fry them, take out the pieces of fat, put in the vegetables, and cook them for 15 minutes. Sprinkle in the Hour and curry powder, fry for a few minutes, then add the meat in small, a teaspoonful of salt, the herbs and water. When the nunpound 1 »oils( remove the scum as it rises, then cover and cook gently for 3 hours. Strain, rub the meat through a wire sieve, and return to uccpan. When boiling, add the lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve. Well-cooked rice should be handed round with this soup. Time. — 4 to 4$- hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to IB. 8d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.

—The I nines and remains of any kind of meat or poultry may be 1 of Mutton. The soup would take its name from tho m.r empl ( >.\tail Soup, Indian Style. (Fr. — Queue de Bu-uf a I'lndienne.) Rabbit Purde, Indian Style. (Fr.— Pure-c de Lapin a ITndienne.) 77-— OX CHEEK SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Moufle de Bceuf.) Ingredients. — 5 quarts of water, i ox cheek, 2 onions, 2 carrots, I

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turnip, i strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, basil, marjoram, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 4 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour.

Method. — Soak the cheek in salt and warm water for 5 or 6 hours, changing it 2 or 3 times. Prepare the vegetables and cut them into thick slices, melt the butter in a large stewpan, add the vegetables to it, and fry until brown. Well wash the ox cheek, break the bones into small pieces, and put them into the stewpan; also put in the herbs, seasonings, meat and water. Bring slowly to the boil, skim well, put on the cover and simmer gently for 3 hours, or according to the size of the cheek, strain, return the soup to the saucepan, and bring to the boil. Mix the flour smoothly with a little cold water or stock, pour it into the soup, stir and simmer for 5 or 6 minutes. Cut the smaller pieces of meat into dice and add them to the soup, also cut a few dice of cooked celery and carrot. Season to taste, and serve. Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Seasonable in winter. THYME (Fr. thym). — There are numerous species of this aromatic plant, which are native to the temperate regions. The wild variety in Britain is characterized by its well-known fragrant smell. The cultivated garden-thyme is indigenous to the south of Europe; its young leaves and tops are used for flavouring soups and sauces, and as an ingredient in stuffings. From the essential oil contained in thyme a flavouring essence is prepared.

78.— OXTAIL SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Queue de Bceuf.) Ingredients. — i oxtail, 2 quarts of second stock or water, 2 onions, 2 carrots, i turnip, 2 strips of celery, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of lean ham or bacon (cut into dice or cubes), a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, salt, i glass of sherry, i tablespoonful of cornflour.

Method. — Cut the tail into small joints, put it into a stewpan, cover with cold water, boil up and strain. Dry the pieces of oxtail, roll them in flour, put them with the ham and sliced vegetables and butter into the stewpan, and fry until brown. Then add the stock, herbs peppercorns, cloves, and salt, boil and skim well. Put on the lid and cook very gently for about 4 hours. Strain, remove the fat, return to the stewpan, and when the soup boils add the sherry and cornflour smoothly mixed together, stir and cook for a few minutes. Serve the smaller pieces of the tail in the soup, the remainder may be re-heated in a good brown sauce and served as an entree. Time. — 5^ to 6 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. without the stock. THE Ox (Fr.: Boeuf).— The name of various breeds of ungulated or " hoofed " ruminants of the sub-family Bovidae. Like the sheep, the ox (including under this designation also the cow) in its domesticated state is one of the most valuable of animals for its flesh and the various products of its skin, horns, hair, bones and milk. So highly was the ox prized by the ancient Egyptians that it was regarded as a special object of worship, and at the present day the cow is still venerated by the

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Hindus. It forms one of the signs (Taurus) of the Zodiac. Oxen and sheep have from the earliest ages been used for religious sacrifices. They also constituted the wealth of the earlier races. The original stock of existing breeds is unknown. The Chillingharn cattle are a type of the older wild ox and are supposed to be the descendants of the Urus, or " mountain bull," inhabiting the forest districts of Britain at the time of the Roman invasion. The Aurochs, or Lithuanian bison, is also an example of the wild variety. The chief breeds in Britain are the Ayrshire, Alderney, Kyre, and Durham shorthorn, with crosses between these varieties, bred for food or the dairy. A large quantity of beef is now imported from America and Canada. Beef constitutes the principal article of animal food, and is highly nutritious, but less digestible than mutton. It's constituents are: — In 100 parts: Water, 72.0; proteids, 21.0; fats, 6.0; salts, i.o.

79.— PARTRIDGE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Perdrix.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, i cold roast partridge, or the remains of two or three, £ of a Ib. of calf's or chicken's liver, 2 ozs. of lean bacon or ham, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i bouquet-garni (parsley, basil, marjoram, thyme, bay-leaf), i glass of port or sherry, Method. — Cut a teaspoonful of small dice from the breasts of the birds and put them aside. Cut the remainder of the birds into small pieces, the liver into thin slices, and the bacon into dice. Fry all these together in i oz. of butter until brown, then add the stock, bouquet-garni, seasoning, and simmer gently for i£ to 2 hours, keeping the compound well skimmed; strain, pound the meat in a mortar and rub it through a sieve, or, when pounding is inconvenient, rub as much as possible through a wire sieve. Melt the remaining oz. of butter, stir in the flour, and cook until brown. Pour in the stock, stir until it boils, add the puree of meat, wine, seasoning if necessary, the dice of partridge, simmer for a few minutes, and serve.

Time. — 2£ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 9d. without stock and partridge. Seasonable from September i to February. Sufficient for 6 persons. THE PARTRIDGE (Fr. perdrix).—The common partridge is in Britain the most abundant of the game birds, and belongs to the same family as the grouse. Its general colour i %.iried by brown and black. The male partridge is about 12 inches in length; the female is soraewh feeds principally on grain and insects. The eggs are olive-brown, and •: rood is known A characteristic of the partridges is their habit of associating together and fr. their native locality. The French partridge, or red-legged vari<: is larger than the English variety, and is mun<«r.Mis 1:1 the eastern counties of England. It ion the wing tli.m tlie English bird, and does not fly in coveys. The eye is pi-milled in front and behind by a white line, and its eggs are yellowish white marked with brown. In the Unit, several species of quail are.ailed p.irtridges.

80.— QUEEN SOUP. (Fr.— Potage a la Reine.) Ingredients. — i chicken, 3 quarts of white stock, 4 ozs. of bacon, i carrot, i onion, i bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaf, 3 ozs. of butter, i oz. of almonds, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, chicken quenelles, seasoning, | a pint of milk.

Method. — Slice the bacon and put in a stewpan together with the vegetables, herbs, etc. Place the chicken, previously trussed as for boiling, on top, season with pepper and salt, pour in i quart of stock, cover with a lid, and let it reduce slowly; add the remainder of the stock, boil slowly, skim, and continue to boil until tender. Remove the

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chicken, free it from skin and bones; pound the meat in a mortar with breadcrumbs, season with salt and nutmeg, moisten with all the stock, and rub through a fine sieve. Return to the stewpan. Peel and pound the almonds, boil in milk and pass through a tammy. Add this to the soup together with the butter just before serving. Serve the soup with a garnish of small chicken quenelles, also a handful of freshly cooked peas or asparagus points.

Average Cost. — 6s. icd. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable at any 8 1. —RABBIT SOUP WITH SORREL. (Fr.— Potage de Lapin a 1'Oseille.) Ingredients. — 3 quarts of water, i rabbit, £ a Ib. of shin of beef, 2 ozs. of lean bacon, i onion, i small carrot, a few leaves of sorrel, 10 peppercorns, 2 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 2 ozs. of butter, i^ ozs. of flour, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of lemon- juice, Method. — Cut the bacon into dice or cubes, the beef into small pieces, and the rabbit into small joints: from the back cut one or two nice fillets. Melt the butter in a large stewpan, and fry the beef, bacon, and rabbit until brown; put the small fillets aside, to be used later as a garnish. Add the water, sliced carrot, the onion, into which the cloves should be stuck, peppercorns, mace and salt, bring slowly to the boil, and skim well. Cook slowly for 3 hours, then strain. Put the beef into the stock-pot. The meat of the rabbit and the bacon pound well, and rub through a fine sieve. Re-heat the soup, mix the flour smoothly with a little cold stock, add it to the soup, stir and cook for a few minutes. Put in the puree of meat. Wash the sorrel, cut it into fine shreds, blanch, strain, and put into the soup. Cut the fillets of fried rabbit into dice, and add them, together with the lemon-juice, parsley, and any necessary seasoning, to the soup, and serve. Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost. 2s. 4d. to 2S. 6d. Seasonable from September to March. Sufficient for 10 persons. 82.— RABBIT SOUP (WHITE). (Fr.— Potage de Lapin.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, 3 pints of second stock, i pint of water, 4 ozs. of gammon of bacon, i onion, a piece of celery, i small bunch of savoury herbs, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, £ a pint of milk, seasoning. Method. — Skin the rabbit, wipe it with a damp cloth, and cut it up into small pieces. Put it in a stewpan with 3 pints of stock and i pint of water, bring it to the boil, skim, and add the bacon, the onion (stuck with a clove), celery and herbs. Cook gently for i£ hours, or until

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the meat is quite tender. Remove the best pieces of rabbit (these can be used for croquettes, etc.), and the bunch of herbs. Melt the butter, add the flour, mix well, stir in the milk, and boil. Stir into the pan containing the soup, simmer for 20 minutes, season with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and rub through a sieve. Re-heat, and add, if liked, a cupful of cream. Serve with fried bread croutons. Time. — ij to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable from October to January.

83.— RABBIT SOUP (BROWN.) This is made in a similar manner as explained in the foregoing recipe, the only difference being that the rabbit is fried after it is cut up, and brown stock should be used. The bacon and rabbit should bo friod in dripping until they acquire a brown colour, after which the Hour used for thickening must be fried also. The stock and water is then added, with the vegetables, etc. Cook gently for i£ hours, and strain, season to taste, then serve. This soup should be of a dark fawn colour. It is best to omit the cream mentioned in the foregoing recipe. 84.- RICE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage au Riz.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock, i pint of milk, tho yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper, 3 tablospoonfuls of rice. Method. — Boil the stock, add the rice, previously woll-waslu -d, and simmer gently for about £ hour, or until the rice is thoroughly cooked. Kub through a hair siove, return to the stcwpan, add tho milk, and boil. Bout tho yolks of tho eggs with a littlo milk or cold lot the soup cool slightly, then pour in the eggs and stir until tho thickens. Season to taste, and servo.

Time. — £ to i hour. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. without the stock. Seasonable all tho your. Sufficient lor 6 persons. i r.: Kiz). -This important fo,,l-plant, whi< h Ix-longs to the natural order of th«- < known in ti:.in rd into h.. ! t,,rms the prim ip il article of dirt of the Hindu-.-rounds of die tro|,ir.,l aiul suh-tropieal di^tn. ts,,\ S..uth-1-ast Asia, Egypt and grows luxuriantly in tin- rii-h alluvial de;,1k of the ri- e pl.i •; >imd. and jointed; it> leaves an lar. l,ap.,|;; an- whit.- and oblong, varving in form a. eording to th«- differ.:. and other kinds. Rice in the husk is called " paddy." It is a light and wl fool, but i> vrv p. *.r and deficient in ] proporii,f niti. -,-nous or Sesh- forming matter. 5 in 100 parts, and should \m used in i..mbinition with meat, pe is, or beans to supply the proteiils, fat, and tommon salt. 85.— SAGO SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Sagou a la Creme. ) Ingredients.— 3 pints of second stock, i pint of milk,.{ a pint of cream, JO, tho yolks..' buy-loaf, su^'ur. salt and prppor. Method. —Put tin- stork.md buy l<-af into a stowpun, wlion boiling

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sprinkle in the sago and cook gently for 20 minutes, or until the sago is transparent. Add the milk, a good pinch of sugar, salt and pepper to taste, and continue to simmer a few minutes longer. Beat the yolks of the eggs and the cream together, add these to the soup, and stir until it thickens, but it must not be allowed to boil or the eggs will curdle. Remove the bay-leaf, and serve.

Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, lod. to is. without the stock.

Note. — This Soup, the principal ingredients of which are sago and eggs, has always been considered very beneficial to the chest and throat. In various quantities and indiiferent preparations, sago and eggs have been partaken of by many famous singers, including the celebrated" Swedish Nightingale," Jenny Lind, with considerable benefit to the voice in singing. SAGO (Fr.: Sagou). — A farinaceous food obtained from the cellular starchy pith of several species of a genus of palms, especially Sagus Laevis and Sagus Rumphii, the latter yielding the finest kind of sago. Both of these species are natives of the Malay Archipelago. The Malay word saga means " bread," from the circumstance that sago forms the chief farinaceous diet of the Malays. To procure sago the trees, which grow to a height of about thirty feet, with a diameter of about one and a half feet, are felled, with their flowering spike forms. From the stems, which are cut into convenient sections, the pith is extracted, and beaten in receptacles of cold water to separate the starch granules from the woody filaments with which they are associated. After washing and straining, the meal is dried. For exportation the moist sago is dried and rubbed to smaller granular pellets, and according to the size of these is designated " pearl," " medium," or " bullet " sago. An imitation is made from potato starch, but is easily detected by the microscope. A common variety of sago is made in India and Ceylon from various palm-trees. Sago, from its ready solubility, is easy of digestion, and is a valuable light, nutritious, farinaceous food. It is largely used in the preparation of soluble cocoas. 86.— SHIN OF BEEF SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Bceuf.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of shin of beef, 3 quarts of water, 2 ozs. of butter or dripping, i oz. of flour, i onion sliced, i carrot sliced, £ of a turnip sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt. Method. — Heat the butter in a saucepan, put in the prepared onion, carrot and turnip, and fry them brown. Add the water, the meat cut into small pieces, the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a little salt, and simmer gently for 3 or 4 hours. Strain, skim well, re-heat, and stir in the flour previously mixed with a little cold water. Boil gently for 5 or 6 minutes, then serve garnished with a little cooked vegetable, macaroni, or other farinaceous substance.

Time. — From 3^ to 4^ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. sd. Sufficient 87.— SOUP WITHOUT MEAT. (Fr.— Soupe Maigre.) Ingredients. — 2^ quarts of boiling water, 4 ozs. of butter, 2 onions cut into dice, i head of celery cut into dice, 2 lettuces shredded, 2 handfuls of spinach, 2 or 3 sprigs of parsley, 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper.

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Method. — Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the prepared vegetables, cover closely, and cook very slowly for about \ an hour. Now add the boiling water and a seasoning of salt and pepper, and simmer gently until all the vegetables are tender. Beat the yolks of eggs slightly, add gradually a few tablespoonfuls of the boiling soup, and when thoroughly blended add the preparation to the contents of the saucepan. Stir and cook gently for a few minutes to cook the eggs, then add salt, pepper, and vinegar to taste, and serve.

Time. — From i| to \\ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 7 or 8 perons. Seasonable at any time.

LETTUCE (Fr.: Laitue). — A herbaceous annual plant of the genus iMctuca of the order Composite which includes the chicory tribe, with small pale yellow flowers. It grows in the temperate regions, and the garden lettuce is cultivated as a salad herb. The lettuce was known to the Greeks and Romans, and has been in use in England since the time of Elizabeth. There are various gardeners' varieties of the lettuce — modifications of the cabbage variety, and that with long oblong leaves. The lettuce should be eaten while young; when in flower it possesses narcotic and poisonous properties. From the characteristc milky juice of the lettuce, Lactucorium, or " lettuce opium," used medicinally as an anodyne, is prepared.

88.— SPRING SOUP WITHOUT MEAT.

(Fr. — Potage Printaniere Maigre.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of water, i head of lettuce, J of a white-heart cabbage, i carrot, i turnip, i onion, 2 leeks, £ a head of celery, i small cauliflower, 4 ozs. of butter, croutons (or small slices) of toasted bread, Method. — Cut the flower of the cauliflower into small pieces and put them aside, cut the tender part of the stalk into small pieces. Prepare the rest of the vegetables and shred them finely, melt the butter in a large stewpan, put in the shredded vegetables and the stalk of the cauliflower, and cook without browning for 20 minutes. Add to them the water, salt and pepper, and cook gently until tender (about i hour); 20 minutes before serving, put in the sprays of cauliflower. Cut 2 or 3 slices of very thin well-browned toast into small dice, and put them into the tureen. Add any necessary seasoning to the soup, and serve. Time. — About i£ hours. Cost, lod. to is. Seasonable in spring. 89.— TAPIOCA CREAM SOUP. (Fr.— Potage au Tapioca.) Ingredients. — i quart of white stock, or half stock and half milk, i of a pint of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs, i tablespoonful of fine sago or crushed tapioca, salt and pepper.

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Method. — The stock should be well flavoured, otherwise it must be simmered with a little onion, carrot, celery and herbs, and then strained for use. Bring the stock to boiling point, sprinkle in the sago, or whatever is used in its place, and stir and cook until it becomes transparent, then let the soup cool slightly. Mix the yolks of the eggs and the cream together (a £• of a pint of milk may be substituted when it is not convenient to use cream), add to the soup and stir till it thickens: it should have the consistency of single cream. When a thicker soup is desired, mix a teaspoonful of flour or cornflour with a little milk, and add it to the soup at the same time as the sago. Season to taste, Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Cost, about pd., not including the stock. 90.— TOMATO SOUP. (Fr.— Potage aux Tomates.) Ingredients. — i quart of second stock or water, 2 Ib. of tomatoes, either fresh or tinned, 2 ozs. of lean ham (this may be omitted when using stock), i oz. of butter, i tablespoonful of fine sago, i onion, 1 carrot, or bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt, pepper, castor-sugar.

Method. — Slice the tomatoes, onion and carrot; cut the ham into small dice cubes. Melt the butter, add to it the ham, carrot and onion, fry for 5 minutes, put in the tomatoes and herbs, and cook for 15 minutes longer. Pour in the stock or water, and cook gently until the vegetables are tender, then rub the ingredients through a wire sieve. Return the soup to the stewpan, and when boiling sprinkle in the sago and cook until it becomes transparent. Season to taste, add a good pinch of sugar, and serve. Croutons, or small slices of fried or toasted bread, should be served separately.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 9d. to lod. without the stock. Seasonable at any time, but more especially in summer. Sufficient for 6 91.— TOMATO SOUP (without meat). (Fr.— Potage de Tomate Maigre.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fresh tomatoes, i Spanish onion, a small bunch of mixed herbs, 3 pints of water, salt and pepper, i oz. of crushed tapioca or semolina, 2 ozs. of butter.

Method, — Peel and slice the onion, cut the tomatoes into small slices. Fry the onion a nice light brown in the butter, add the tomatoes, and fry them a little, then put in the water and the bunch of herbs. Allow

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fcECIPfcS FOR THICK SOUPS 177 all to cook till tender, rub through a hair sieve, return to the slcwp.in, season to taste with salt and pepper. When boiling, gradually add the tapioca or semolina, and cook for 10 minutes longer. Serve with small croutons of fried bread.

Time.— One hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 7d- Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.

92.— TOMATO AND LENTIL SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Tomates et Lentilles.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of stock or water, i pint of milk, £ a pint of lentils, 2 ozs. of lean bacon or ham, i£ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i Ib. of tomatoes (fresh or preserved), i onion, i carrot, £ a turnip, i small leek, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash and soak the lentils for 12 hours, and drain well before using. Slice all the vegetables, and cut the bacon int<> Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the ham and all the- vegetables, the tomatoes, and cook slowly for a few minutes, then add the tomatoes and lentils, cover closely, and steam the contents of the stewpan for 15 or 20 minutes. Add the stock or water, bowquet-garni, peppercorns, and cloves, and simmer for 3 hours, or until the lentils arc tender. Strain, return to the saucepan, and when boiling add the milk. Mix the flour smoothly with a little stock or milk, and add it to the boiling soup. Stir and simmer for a few minutes to cook the flour, then season to taste, and serve.

Time. — 4 to 4^ hours. Average Cost, lid. or is. without the stock. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. 93.— TURKEY SOUP. (Fr.— Botage de Dinde.') Ingredients. — 2 quarts of white second stock, the remains of a cold turkey, 2 ozs. of cooked macaroni, i£ ozs. of crenu- de riz (riceflour), i small onion, i bay-leaf, i small blade of mace, salt and pMethod. — Divide the remains of the turkey and the bones into small, put them into a stewpan with the onion, bay-leaf, mace, ami a little salt and pepper or peppercorns, add the stock, and simmer gently for 3 hours. Strain, return to the saucepan, add the <, previously blended smoothly with a little cold stuck or milk, stir and boil gently for 7 or 8 minutes. Have the a i i ready boiled and cut into very short lengths, put it into the soup, season to make thoroughly hot, and serve.

Time. — About 3! hours. Average Cost, 4d., in addition to the stock and turkey. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable in winter. THE TURKEY (Fr.: Dtndon}.— This well-known bird is a native of North Amrr;.hound-* I* a wild state. It was introduced • ntury. Die phunage oi the wild male bit The turkey for the excellence of its ilesh and eggs. Iu its domesticated state it is a very delicate bird aud ditiicuit tu rear.

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94.— TURTLE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage Tortue.) (Founded on M. Ude's Recipe.) Ingredients. — A very small turtle, 6 slices of ham, 2 knuckles of veal, i large bunch of sweet herbs, 3 bay-leaves, parsley, green onions, i onion, 6 cloves, 3 blades of mace, £ Ib. of fresh butter, i bottle of Madeira, i lump of sugar.

For the Quenelles a la tortue i Ib. of veal, i Ib. of breadcrumbs, milk, 7 eggs, cayenne, salt, spices, chopped parsley, the juice of 2 lemons.

Method. — To make this soup more* easily, cut off the head of the turtle the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle by leaning heavily with a knife on the shell of the animal's back, while you cut this off all round. Turn the turtle upright on its end to drain out all the water, etc., then cut the flesh off along the spine with the knife sloping towards the bones, so as to avoid touching the gall, which sometimes may escape the eye. When all the flesh about the members is obtained, wash these clean, and let them drain. Have ready, on the fire, a large vessel full of boiling water, into which put the shells; when you perceive that they come off easily, take them out of the water, and prick them all, with those of the back, belly, fins, head, etc. Boil the back and the belly until the bones can be taken out, without, however, allowing the softer parts to be sufficiently done, as they will be boiled again in the soup. When these latter come off easily, lay them on earthen dishes singly for fear they should stick together, and put them to cool. Keep the liquor in which you have blanched the softer parts, and let the bones stew thoroughly in it, this liquor being valuable for moistening sauces.

All the flesh of the interior parts, the four legs and head, must be drawn down in the following manner: Lay the slices of ham on the bottom of a very large stewpan, over them the knuckles of veal, according to the size of the turtle; then the inside flesh of the turtle, and, over the whole, the members. Now moisten with the water in which you are boiling the shell, and draw it down thoroughly. You may now ascertain if it be perfectly done by thrusting a knife into the fleshy part of the meat. If no blood appears, it is time to moisten it again with the liquor in which the bones, etc., have been boiling. Put in a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are adapted for the cooking of a turtle — sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion stuck with 6 cloves. Let the members be thoroughly cooked, probe them to see if they are done, and if so, drain and send them to the larder, as they are to make their appearance only when the soup is absolutely completed. When the flesh is also completely cooked, strain it through a silk sieve, and make a

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very thin white roux (i.e., a preparation of butter and flour), for turtle soup must not be thickened very much. When the flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, and has a good colour, moisten it with the liquor, keeping it over the fire until it boils. Ascertain that the sauce is neither too thick nor too thin; then draw the stewpan to the side of the stove and skim off the white scum, and all the fat and oil that rises to the surface of the sauce. By this time all the softer parts will be sufficiently cold; they must be cut about i or 2 inches square, and thrown into the soup, which must now be left to simmer gently. When done, skim off all the fat and froth. Take all the leaves of the herbs from the stock — sweet basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 2 or 3 bay-leaves, common thyme, a handful of parsley and green onions, and a large onion cut in 4 pieces, with a few blades of mace. Put these in a stewpan, with about £ of a Ib. of fresh butter, and let it simmer on a slow fire till quite melted, then pour in i bottle of good Madeira, adding a small piece of sugar, and let it boil gently for i hour. When done, rub it through a tammy-cloth, and add it to the soup. Let this boil till no white scum rises; then with a skimmer remove all the bits of turtle out of the sauce, and put them in a clean stewpan; when you have taken all out, pour the soup over the pieces of turtle, through a tammy-cloth, and proceed as follows: — Quenelles a la Tortue. — Make some quenelles a la tortue, which do not require to be very delicate, being substitutes for eggs. Take from the fleshy part of a leg of veal about i Ib., scrape off all the meat, without any sinews or fat. Soak about the same quantity of crumbs of bread in milk. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it, and put it into a mortar with the veal, a small quantity of calf's udder, a little butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, boiled hard, a little cayenne pepper, salt and spices, and pound the whole very fine; then thicken the mixture with 2 whole eggs and the yolk of another. Next try this farce or stuffing, in boiling hot water, to ascertain its consistency; if it is too thin, add the yolk of an egg. When the farce is perfected, take half of it, and put into it some chopped parsley. Let the whole cool, then form it into the shape and size of the yolk of an egg; poach them in salt and boiling water, and when very hard drain on a sieve, and put it into the soup. Before serving, squeeze the juice of 2 or 3 lemons upon a little cayenne pepper and pour into the soup. The fins may be served as an entree with a little turtle sauce; if not, on the following day you may warm the turtle in the bain marie, and serve the members entire, with a matelote sauce, garnished with mushrooms, cocks' combs, quenelles, etc. When either lemon-juice or cayenne pepper has been introduced no boiling must take place.

• — It is necessary to observe that the turtle prepared a day before it is used is generally preferable, the flavour being more uniform. Be particular, when you dress a very large turtle, to preserve the green fat in a separate stewpan (be cautious not to turn it a brown colour — the natural green of the

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fish is preferred by every epicure and true connoisseur), and also when the turtle is entirely done, to have as many tureens as you mean to serve each time. You cannot put the whole in a large vessel, for various reasons: first, it will be long in cooling; secondly, when you take some out, it will break all the rest into rags. If you warm it in a bain-marie (a vessel immersed in another outer vessel of water), the turtle will always retain the same taste; but if you boil it often it becomes strong, and loses its delicacy of flavour. The Cost of Turtle Soup. — This is the most expensive soup brought to table. It is sold by the quart — one guinea being the standard price for that quantity. The price of live turtle ranges from 8d. to 2s. per lb., according to supply and demand. When live turtle is dear, many cooks use the tinned turtle, which is killed when caught, and proserved by being put into hermetically-sealed canisters, and so sent over to England. The cost of a tin, containing 2 quarts, or 4 lb., is about £i, and for a small one, containing the green fat, 33. 6d. From these about 6 quarts of good soup may be made. Sun-dried turtle is also sold, and answers very well. It requires to be soaked as well as stewed for a long time, and put into good stock.

THE GREEN TURTLE (Fr.: Tortue) is the best known of the various species of turtles, from the fact that its flesh furnishes the materials for the rich soup so highly prized as a table delicacy. The fat of its upper and lower shields is considered the richest and most delicate part. The green turtle is an inhabitant of the warm seas of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, and is common at the Antilles and round the coast of Ascension Island. It attains the dimensions of five to seven feet, and often weighs about 700 pounds. The eggs of the green turtle are esteemed a delicacy. Turtles are 'amphibious and feed upon marine plants. The turtle as an article of luxury is popularly associated with the Lord Mayors' banquets.

95.— VEGETABLE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage aux Legumes.) Ingredients. — 2 carrots, i turnip, i onion, i leek, 2 strips of celery, i dessertspoonful of finely chopped parsley, 2 ozs. of butter, i^ ozs. of flour, i pint of boiling water, i pint of milk, salt and pepper. Method. — Prepare the vegetables and cut them into strips about the size of a short and rather thick match. Melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry the vegetables very slowly until the butter is absorbed, then add the water, £• of the milk, salt and pepper, and simmer gently until the vegetables are tender (5 to 10 minutes). Mix the flour and the rest of the milk. smoothly together, pour the mixture into the saucepan, stir and cook for a few minutes, then serve.

Time. — To prepare the vegetables, 20 to 30 minutes. To make Ihc soup, 25 to 30 minutes. Cost, about 5d. Seasonable at any time. 96.— VEGETABLE SOUP (THICK). (Fr.— Potage aux Legumes, Lie.) Ingredients. — i quart of water, i pint of milk, i onion, i carrot, ] a turnip, 4 tablespoonfuls of lentils, 2 tablespoonfuls of pearl-barley

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(rice, sago or tapioca may be used instead), I tablespoonful of flour, £ a teaspoonful of salt, £ of a teaspoonful of pepper. Method. — Wash the lentils in two or three waters, then put them and the water into a saucepan and cook gently. Cut the vegetables into dice or cubes. Blanch the barley by putting it into cold water and bringing it to the boil, strain, wash well, and add it to the lentils. When the lentils and barley are cooked, put in all the vegetables, salt and pepper, simmer gently for 20 minutes, then add the milk. Mix the flour smoothly with a little water, pour it into the soup, and stir until it boils. Simmer a few minutes longer, season to taste, and serve. Time. — i to 2 hours. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. Seasonable at any time, but more particularly so in winter. Sufficient for 6 persons. 97.— WHITE OR MILK SOUP. (Fr.— Potage au Lait.) Ingredients. — 2\ pints ot milk, 3 tablcspoonfuls of cooked rice, \\ ozs. of flour, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, i saltspoonful of finelychopped lemon-rind, \ of a saltspoonful of ground mace, salt and Method. — Mix the flour smoothly with a little cold milk or water, add it to the milk when quite boiling, and stir until it thickens slightly. Put in the onion, lemon-rind, and a seasoning of salt and pepper, simmer gently for 15 minutes, then add the prepared ri< Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, fid. Sufficient for 5 persons. 98.— WINTER SOUP. (Fr.— Potage d'Hiver.) Ingredients. — i small white cabbage, i small onion, i leek, i oz. of butter or dripping, i pint of milk, i oz. of sago or rice, salt and pepper, i slice of toasted bread, i quart of water.

Method. — Wash and trim the cabbage, cut the leaves into very fine shreds, put them into sailed boiling water and cook for 10 mil take ii]) and drain. Melt the butter in a saucvp.m. add the onion and livk.previously peeled, eleuned and cut into thin slices), cook a little, then add the cabbage, and stir the whole over the fire for a few minutes Ion with a quart of water, boil, skim, and simmer gently until all the vegetables are tender; season with pepper and salt, add the milk (boiling. put in the sago or and eook for another 20 minutes. Serve with small siy; Time. — About T hour. Average Cost, fid. to 8d. Sufficient forfi per Seasonable in winter.

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Purees.

99.— ALMOND SOUP. (Fr.— Potage d'Amandes a la Crime.) Ingredients. — i quart of milk, or half milk and half white stock, £ of a Ib. of ground almonds, 2 hard-boiled eggs, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour or cornflour, i onion, 2 strips of celery, salt and pepper.

Method. — Mince the onion and celery finely, put them into a stewpan with the ground almonds, cover with cold water and simmer gently for \ an hour, then rub through a fine sieve: rub the yolks of the eggs through at the same time. In the meantime make the milk hot in the saucepan, add to it the puree of almonds, onion, celery, and egg, and boil up. Knead the butter and flour together, put these into the soup and stir until smoothly mixed with it, cut the whites of the eggs into dice, add them with the necessary seasoning to the soup, and serve.

Time. — i to i£ hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.

ALMOND (Fr.: Amande).— This tree is indigenous to the northern parts of Asia and Africa, but it is also cultivated in Europe, especially in the south of France, Spain, and Italy. It grows to about twenty feet in height, and is allied to the peach, natural order Rosaceae. Its flowers, of a beautiful pink, appear before the leaves are produced; these are oval shaped, with serrated edges. The fruit is ovoid in form, and covered with down, encasing the almond in a wrinkled shell. There are two varieties of the almond- tree, one sweet and the other bitter. The chief kinds of sweet almonds are the Jordan or Syrian, which comes from Malaga, the Valencian, and the Italian. Bitter almonds are imported from Mogador, and in addition to a fixed oil, consisting chiefly of olein, which is common to both varieties, bitter almonds contain a substance called emulsin and a bitter crystallizable body named amygdalin; the latter by its action on the former produces by distillation the essential oil of almonds, the principal constituents of which are prussic acid, benzoic acid, and hydride of benzoyl. The essential oil is used for perfuming soap, for flavouring confectionery, and in cookery; but great care is necessary in its use owing to the presence, as mentioned above, of the highly poisonous substance prussic acid. loo.— APPLE SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Pommes.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, 2 Ib. of cooking apples, 3 cloves, J of an inch of root ginger, salt and pepper.

Method.— Peel, quarter, and core the apples, cut them into thick slices, and add them with the cloves and ginger to the boiling stock. Simmer gently until tender, then pass the whole through a fine sieve. Re-heat, season to taste, and serve.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d., exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.

APPLE (Fr.: Pomme). — The apple is the most widely distributed of all the fruit-trees, and belongs to the temperate regions, where it flourishes best; it also grows in India, Persia, Arabia, Australia and New Zealand. The original of all the varieties of the cultivated appVe is the wild crab-tree (Pyrus mains), the fruit of which is small and very sour. The apple-tree is of moderate height, with oval leaves and pinkish white flowers. There are numerous varieties of the cultivated apple, and new ones are continually being added by cultivators. The various kinds are maintained and propagated by grafts, cuttings and budding. The wood of the apple-tree is hard and close-grained, and is used for cabinet work and turnery. The apple is of great antiquity, and was brought from the East by the Romans, who esteemed it highly, and by them was probably introduced into Britain. Large quantities of apples are imported into Great Britain from the Continent, the United States, Canada and Australia. From the fermented juice of the apple cider is produced. Apples dried in ovens are termed " biffins." The apple contains a large percentage of water, and also malic acid, which i$ used for medicinal purposes.

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ioi.— ARTICHOKE SOUP. (Fr.— Puree a la Palestine.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock or water, i pint of milk, 2 Ib. of Jerusalem artichokes, 2 onions, i strip of celery, i oz. of butter, pepper and salt.

Method. — Wash the artichokes, put a tablespoonful of vinegar into a basin of water and keep the artichokes in it as much as possible while paring them, to preserve their whiteness. Cut the onions, celery, and artichokes into slices, make the butter hot in a stewpan, fry the vegetables for 10 or 15 minutes without browning; then pour in the stock and boil until tender. Rub through a fine sieve, return to the saucepan, add the milk and seasoning, bring to the boil, and serve. Time. — About i £ hours. Cost, 8d. to lod. without the stock. Seasonable from October to February. Sufficient for 6 persons.

. — When a thicker soup is desired a dessertspoonful of cornflour or flour should be blended with a little milk or stock, and added to the soup a few minutes before serving.

BREAD (Fr.: Pain). — The use of bread is of the greatest antiquity, and is common to the most primitive races. The earliest kind consisted of raw grain softened with water, pressed together, and tlu-'i baked. Cakes and similar forms of this unfermented bread made with bruised grain are si in the rural districts of northern Europe, and in other parts of the world. All the cereal tr millet, rice, maize, rye, barley and oats are utilized more or less by the inhabitant of tin- coontrie* where these are cultivated, but wheat is the most suited for the purpose of making thof bread. \\Ticaten flour contains in slightly varying proportions, according to the kind of wheat from which it is manufactured, starch, gluten — a crey. visrid, elastic, nitrogenous s< sisting chiefly of vegetable fibrine — sugar, gum, mineral matter and water. Thr v bread are of two classes, unfermented or unleavened, as biscuits. Scotch bannocks, tv of the United States, Australian " dampers "; and fermented or leavened bread of the ordinar, hold, and f.iucy varieties. Fermentation is usually produced by means of leaven or yeast, •* I v baking powders. Aerated bread is made with aerated water, which is strongly imrreen.iacid under pressure. By law, all bread except fancy bread and rolls, must be sold by 102.— BREAD SOUP. (Fr.— Soupe au Pain.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of stock, broth, or pot-liquor, i Ib. of breadcrusts, salt and pepper.

Method. — Break the bread into small pieces, and place them in a basin. Boil up the stock, pour sufficient over the bread to cover it, let it remain closely covered until the bread is quite soft, then beat out the lumps with a fork. Add the bread thus prepared to the remainder of the stock, boil up, simmer gently for 10 or 15 minutes, then season to taste, and serve.

Time.— About i hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. when made of second stock. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable at any time.

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103.— BROAD BEAN SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Feves.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of second stock or water, i pint of beans shelled, 2 ozs. of lean bacon or ham (this may be omitted when using stock), i dessertspoonful of chopped onion, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a dessertspoonful of flour, i oz. of butter, salt, pepper, sugar. Method. — Boil the beans in salted water for 10 or 15 minutes, then drain and remove the skins. Melt the butter in the stewpan, add the bacon in small pieces, the onion, and parsley, and fry for about 5 minutes, then put in the stock, and when boiling add the beans. Simmer gently until the beans are tender (20 to 30 minutes unless very old), then rub through a fine sieve. Return to the stewpan, and when boiling, add the flour, previously blended with a little stock or water, and stir until it is mixed smoothly with the stock. Season to taste, add a good pinch of sugar, and serve. Croutons, or small slices of fried or toasted bread, should be handed separately.

Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes. Cost, about 6d. Seasonable from June to August. Sufficient for 6 persons.

104. -BRUSSELS SPROUTS SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Choux de Bruxelles.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of Brussels sprouts, 3 pints of good stock, i gill of cream, a small piece of soda, salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Method. — Wash and trim the sprouts, cook them in salted water containing a very small piece of soda (to preserve the colour) till tender. Drain well and rub through a sieve. Put the puree in a stewpan with the stock, boil, and let it simmer for a few minutes, skimming meanwhile. Season to taste, add the cream, keep hot until wanted for table, but on no account let the soup boil after the cream is added. Time. — £ hour. Average Cost, 2s. od. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable from September to February.

105.— CARROT AND LENTIL SOUP. (Fr.— Crecy aux Lentilles.) Ingredients. — 3 quarts of stock or water, i pint of lentils, 4 carrots sliced, 2 onions sliced, i good lettuce shredded, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked rice, 2 ozs. of butter or fat, salt and pepper. Method. — Let the lentils soak all night, then wash and drain them well. Heat the butter or fat in a saucepan, put in the vegetables,

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and let them fry slowly for 15 minutes. Now add the lentils and stock or water, season with salt and pepper, cover closely, and simmer gently from 4- hour to i hour, or until the lentils are tender. Pass the whole through a sieve, return to the saucepan, make thoroughly hot, then add the cooked rice, season to taste, and serve.

Time. — From iMo 2 hours. Average Cost, Sd., when made of water. Sufficient for i o persons. Seasonable in winter. 1 06.— CARROT SOUP. (Fr.— Puree a la Crecy.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of second stock or water, i pint of milk, 3 carrots, -J- a turnip, i onion, 2 strips of celery, i oz. of butter or dripping, i tablcspoonful of flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Prepare the vegetables, cut them into small pieces, and fry without browning for about 15 minutes in the hot fat. Add the stock and simmer until the vegetables are tender (not less than 40 minutes, and longer if the vegetables are old), then rub through a fine sieve. Return to the saucepan, add the milk, salt and pepper, and bring to the boil. Mix the flour with a little milk or water, pour it into the soup, stir and cook for 10 minutes, and se: utons or small pieces of fried or toasted bread should '1 separably. Time. — i to U hours. Average Cost, about o<l. \\ithout stock. Seasonable at any lime. Sufficient tor n persons.

107.— CARROT SOUP WITH RICE. (Fr.— Puree Crecy au Riz.) Ingredients. — -> pints of win; pint of milk, 5 large canots, i onion, i strip of celery, i h'«'k -, th«' while pari mil-. of butter, i tabl. -spoonful of corntlour. pomifuls of.; 2 tablespoonfuls of omki-d rice, s.tlt, prpprr, Mi'.;ar, nut Method. — Use only the outer n-d part of the earn. is. Cut;tll the Mrs into small pines, and cook them for 10 or 15 ininutrs in hot butter without browning. Add the stock and simmer until the vegetables are tender (about 40 minutes), then rub them through a fine sieve. Return to the stcwpan, add the milk, salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg, and bring to the boil. Mix the cornflour with a small quantity of stock or milk, pour it into the soup and stir for a few minutes, then add a good pinch of sug.ir, the cream, and the rice v\vhich !><• UK ely * ook< »1, and dry, an

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Time. — 1£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, about 9d. or lod. without the stock. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons. 1 08.— CAULIFLOWER SOUP. (Fr— Creme de Choufleur.) Ingredients. — 2 small cauliflowers, i oz. of ground rice (creme de riz), i gill of cream, i£ pints of white stock, 2 ozs. of crushed tapioca, ^ an oz. of castor sugar, nutmeg, i pint of milk, salt and pepper. Method. — Wash and trim the cauliflowers, cook them in salted water till tender, drain (keep the water), and rub the flower through a fine sieve. Bring the water in which the cauliflower has been cooked to the boil, stir in the crushed tapioca, and simmer for 20 minutes. Mix the creme de riz, or ground rice, with a little cold milk, boil up the remainder of the milk with the stock, stir in the ground rice, and cook, for a few minutes, stirring all the while; add the cauliflower water, season with salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste, bring it to the boil, put in the cream and stir a little longer, but do not let it boil again. The puree is now ready for serving.

Time. — One hour. Average Cost, 2s. Seasonable at any time. 109.— CELERY CREAM WITH CROUTONS.

(Fr. — Creme de C61eri aux Croutons.) Ingredients. — 3 heads of celery, 4 ozs. of butter, 3 ozs. of flour, 2 quarts of first stock, i pint of milk, •£ a pint of cream, salt, pepper and nutmeg, % a teaspoonful of castor sugar, croutons of fried bread. Method. — Trim the celery, pare off the green parts and wash thoroughly, cut it into small pieces, and blanch in slightly salted water. Drain well, and return to the stewpan with 3 ozs. of butter. Cook for a few minutes over a brisk fire without allowing the ingredients to brown; moisten with a little stock, add salt, pepper, and nutmeg to taste, cover, and simmer slowly for 30 minutes. Mix the flour with the remainder of the butter in another stewpan, and cook a little without browning. Dilute with the milk, add the stock and partly cooked celery. Let it simmer until the celery is tender, then pass the whole through a fine sieve. Boil again, skim, add the sugar and more seasoning if needed, and lastly the cream. Re-heat the compound, without allowing it to boil and pour into a soup tureen. Serve the bread croutons separately.

Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, 45. Seasonable from September to February. Sufficient for 8 to 10 persons.

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no.— CELERY SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Celeri.) (Good.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of white stock, i pint of milk, I large or 2 small heads of celery (the white part only), 2 small onions, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of rice, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the rice well, slice the celery and onions. Melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry the vegetables in it for 10 minutes without their changing colour. Put in the stock, bouquet-garni, rice, salt and pepper, and simmer gently until tender, then strain. Rub the rice and vegetables through a hair sieve, return the soup and puree to the stewpan, add the milk and bring to the boil. Season to taste, stir in the cream, and serve.

Time. — i to i£ hours. Average Cost. — is. 9d. Seasonable from September to February. Sufficient for 6 persons.

CELERY (Fr.: C fieri) is native to Britain, and in its wild state grows by the side of ditches and brooks, and along the seashore and in saline situations in England and Ireland. In this tt called smallage, and is to some extent a dangerous narcotic. Celery has long been cultivated.1 and culinary vegetable. Its thick leaf stalks, which have been brought to the fine flavour which renders this plant so agreeable an adjunct to the table, are blanched by piling soil over the stalks during their growth and thus excluding the light. Celery acts as a diuretic. in.— CELERY SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Celeri.) (Economical.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of water, i pint of milk, 2 ozs. of lean bacon or ham, i oz. of butter, i£ tablespoonfuls of flour, i large head of c2 onions, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the ham into dice or cubes, slice the onion and cclnv. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the vegetables without browning, put in the bacon, salt, pepper and water, and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes, or until the celery is tender. Strain, rub through a fine sieve, return to the saucepan, add the milk and bring to the boil. Mix the flour with a little milk, stir and cook for 5 or 6 minutes, then season to Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. Seasonable from September to February. Sufficient for 6 persons.

112.— CHANTILLY SOUP. (Fr.— Potage Chantilly.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, i quart of shelled peas, a handful of spinach, 2 or - of parsley, a sprig of mint, i small onion sliced, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper.

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Method. — Place a, few peas aside to be used as garnish, put the remainder into the boiling stock, add the spinach, parsley, mint and onion, and boil gently until the peas are tender. Rub the whole through a wire sieve, re-heat, season to taste, add the cream and the whole peas, which must have been previousy cooked, make thoroughly hot, and serve.

Time. — From £ to i hour. Average Cost, from is. to is. 3d., exclusive of the stock. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable in summer. 113,— CHESTNUT SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Marrons.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of white stock, i pint of milk, i| pints of chestnuts, i oz. of butter, i dessertspoonful of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls oi cream, sugar, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut off the tops of the chestnuts and roast or bake them for 20 minutes, then take off the outer and inner skins. Put the stock, chestnuts, salt and pepper into a stewpan and simmer until tender (about 45 minutes), then rub through a fine sieve. Return to the stewpan, add the milk, and boil up. Knead the butter and flour together, add the mixture to the soup, and stir until it becomes smoothly mingled with it. Season to taste, add the cream and a good pinch of sugar, and Time. — r| to if hours. Average Cost, is. lod. Seasonable from November to January. Sufficient for 6 persons.

THE CHESTNUT (Fr.: Matron), which belongs to the order Cuptiliferae, is allied to the beech. The common sweet, or Spanish chestnut, is supposed to have been introduced into Sardinia from Sardis in Asia Minor, of which it is probably a native, and has long been naturalized in Europe; the Romans are said to have brought it into Britain, where it is now widely distributed. The chestnut attains a great size and age, and its large serrated dark leaves form a pretty object in parks and the open country As an article of food the chestnut is the least oily and most farinaceous of all the nuts, and ior this reason is the most digestible. It was much eaten by the Romans, and is still commonly used as a comestible, both raw and roasted, in France and Italy. The wood of the chestnut-tree, although inferior to the oak, which it much resembles in appearance, when old is used for various purposes. The horse-chestnut, the fruit of which is similar to the edible chestnut, is quite a different tree, and has no connexion with the genus Castanea, to which the Spanish chestnut belongs. 1 14.— COCOANUT SOUP.(Fr.— Potage au Noix de Coco.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of second stock, 4 ozs. of grated cocoanut, preferably fresh, 2 ozs. of rice flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, mace, Method. — When desiccated cocoanut is used it should be previously soaked for 2 or 3 hours in a little of the stock. Boil the stock, add a small blade of mace and the cocoanut, and simmer gently for i hour. Mix the rice flour smoothly with a little stock, boil the remainder, add the blended rice flour, and stir and boil gently for about 10 minutes. Season to taste, stir in the cream, and serve.

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Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 9*!., exclusive of the stock. THE COCOA-NUT at COCO-NUT (Fr.: Noix de coco). — This is the fruit of a secies of palm, a native of the Indian coasts and the South Sea Islands, from whence it has been introduced ami naturalized in most parts of the tropical regions. It flourishes best in the vicinity of the s«-a-sh«Te. The tree i;n>ws frequently to the height of 50 to 100 feet. The trunk is straight and naked, and is about two feet in diameter, the feather-shaped leaves forming the top or crown, from which the nuts hang in clusters. The fruit itself, covered by a hard shell, is inclosed in a librous husk; within the nut -s a clear sweet liquid. Few plants possess so many and useful properties as the cocoa-nut. From its wood the natives obtain the building material for their houses and canoes. The leave* are used for thatching roofs, making baskets and articles of clothing. Coir for making ropes, brushes, and obtained from the fibre of the husks. The hard shells are polished and made into drinking nps, and various domestic and other useful articles; the hard wood of the tree, K " porcupine wood," is employed for a variety of ornamental purposes. The kernels, dr. various ways, are used as food, and the expressed oil of the nut is exported for use in the manufacture of candles, soap, and pomades; the oil when fresh is used in cookery. In southern India and other countries the cocoa-nut forms one of the staples of life. From the white sweetish sap toddy is made, and from it by distillation 2 variety of the spirit arack is obtained. Vinegar aqd&UgW are also; of this juice. The terminal buds of the cocoa-nut tree when boiled resemble cabbage. The milk of the cocoa-nut supplies a refreshing beverage.

115.— CORN SOUP.

Put the coin removed from 3 cobs of corn (or Indian mai/e) into i pinto! fast-boiling water, and cook for about i" minutes. DIM in them and eoi»k till tender in 2 pints of stock and:\ of a pint of mill.. te with salt and pepper, and add a small piece of butter just before Lng, Time. — About I hour. Average Cost, is. M. to is. yd. per quart.

Sufficient for 5 persons. Seasonable at all times.

1 16.— CUCUMBER CREAM. (Fr.— Creme de Concombre.) Ingredients. — i lar Mall cucumbers, j lettuces, 3 ozs. of fresh butter, i quart of white stock, the yolks of 3 eggs, i gill of cream, i tablespoonful of patent cornflour, salt and pepper, a handful of fried bread croutons.

Method.— Peel the cucumbers and cut them into slices. Trim, v drain, and coarsely shred the lettuces; blanch the cucumber and lettuces in salted water containing a very small piece of soda. Strain off the water, and put the vegetables in a stewjun with the butter; stir for a few minutes, then add the stock. Mix a tablespoonful of cornflour with a little cold milk, and stir into the soup. Cook for about 3<> minutes, rub it through a fine sieve, then return to the stewp.m and reheat. Stir the yolks of the eg.ns and the cream together, pour this into tin- soup, and stir over the lire for a few seconds longer. Season to taste with popper and salt. Put the fried bread croutons in a soup tureen, pour the soup over them, and send to table.

Time.— About i hour. Average Cost, 2S. gd. per quart. Seasonable, May to September. Sufficient for 5 persons.

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117.— CUCUMBER CREAM, INDIAN STYLE.

(Fr. — Crime de Concombre a Tlndienne.) Ingredients. — i cucumber, 2 onions (medium size), i calf's brain, 2 quarts of stock, i teaspoonful of mulligatawny paste, £ a gill of cream, i oz. of fresh butter, the yolks of 3 eggs, salt, pepper and nutmeg. Method. — Peel the cucumber, cut it up into short pieces, and cook in salted water till tender; peel the onions, slice them, and cook them in the same manner as the cucumber. Blanch the calf's brain and cook likewise. Drain the onions and the brain, and pound them together in a mortar, add the mulligatawny paste and the butter. Put this in a stewpan with the stock, add the cucumber, and boil for 20 minutes. Rub the whole through a sieve, return to the stewpan, re-heat, add the yolks of eggs and the cream, season to taste with salt, pepper, a tiny pinch of sugar, and a pinch of nutmeg. Stir long enough to bind the eggs, and serve.

Time. — i hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 33. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable from May to September.

1 1 8.— CUCUMBER SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Concombres.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of white stock, i pint of milk, 2 large cucumbers, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper.

Method. — Peel the cucumbers, cut into thick slices, quarter them and remove the seeds. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, put in the cucumber and a little salt, boil for 10 minutes, then drain. Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in the cucumber, cover and let it steam in the butter for about £ an hour, then rub through a hair sieve. Melt the remaining oz. of butter in the stewpan, add the flour, pour in the stock and milk (hot), and stir until boiling. Add the puree of cucumber, simmer for a few minutes, then let the soup cool slightly. Beat the yolks of the eggs a'nd cream together, pour the mixture into the soup and stir until it thickens, taking care that it does not boil, or the eggs will curdle. Season to taste, and serve with croutons of fried bread. Time. — i to i£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Seasonable from May to September. Sufficient for 6 persons.

THE CUCUMBER (Fr.: Concombre). — This plant or fruit belongs to the order of the Cucurbiiact\n or gourds. It is of great antiquity, and is a native of Egypt and Asia. As in ancient times, in E?ypt and the East the cucumber, with other fruits of its class, constitute a large portion of the food of the people. It was cultivated in England in the fourteenth century, but it is only since the rei.un of Henry VIII. that the cucumber came generally into use as a table vegetable. It is much usc«l aa;i salad, and young cucumbers, known as " gherkins," are made into pickles. The cucumber in its rawstate is not very digestible.

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119.— EGG SOUP. (Fr— Potage aux CEufs.) Ingredients. — i quart of good white stock, £ of a pint of cream, the yolks of 4 eggs, salt and pepper.

Method. — Beat the yolks of eggs slightly and add the cream. Bring the stock nearly to boiling-point, add the liaison, or binding mixture, of eggs and cream, and stir by the side of the fire until the soup thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or the eggs may curdle. Season to taste, and serve with croutons of fried or toasted bread. Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 5 1 20.— GREEN PEA SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Pois Verts. ) Ingredients. — 2 pints of white stock, £ a pint of water, i quart of peas (shelled), a handful of spinach (to improve the colour), a little mint, 2 ozs. of butter, i dessertspoonful of flour, salt and pepper. Method. — Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in the peas, spinach, and mint, put on the cover and let them steam in the butter for 15 or 20 minutes. Add the stock and water, and some of the pea-shells if young and soft (they should of course be first washed in cold water), boil quickly until tender, strain and rub the vegetables through a fine sieve. Melt the remainder of the butter in the stewpan, sprinkle in the flour, add the stock and puree, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, and serve with croutons of fried bread. If preferred, a few cooked green peas, and a little cream may be added to the soup before serving. Time. — 1£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, is. Qd. to 2s. od. Seasonable from June to September. Sufficient for 6 persons.

I2i.— HARICOT BEAN SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Haricots.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of stock or water, i pint of milk, £ a pint of small haricot beans, i oz. of butter, i onion, i strip of celery or £ a teaspoonful seeds (tied in muslin), salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the beans, and soak them in water for 12 hours. Melt the butj^r in a stewpan, put in the onion and celery sliced, fry for a few minutes without browning, then put in the beans, cover closely, and let them steam for 15 or 20 minutes. Add the stock or teaspoonful of salt, and simmer until tender (2^ to 3 hours). Strain, and rub the vegetables through a wire sieve. Return to the stewpan, add the milk, and boil up. Season to taste, and serve.

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IQ2 HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT Time. — 3^- to 4 hours. Average Cost, 6d. without the stock. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.

Note. — Haricot-bean, lentil and pea soup arc often substituted for meat by those catering for the poor, and the usual allowance is i pint per head. 122.— LENTIL SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Lentilles.) (Good.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of second stock or water, i pint of milk, £ a pint of brown lentils, i onion, i carrot, 2 strips of celery, a bouquct-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i oz. of butter, i tablespoonful of Hour, salt and pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream.

Method. — Wash the lentils, soak them for 24 hours, and when ready to use, drain well. Melt the butter in a stew-pan, put in the vegetables, sliced herbs, and lentils, cover closely and let them steam in the butter for 15 or 20 minutes. Add the stock, salt and pepper, and cook gently for 2 hours, or until tender, then rub through a fine sieve. Return to the saucepan, add the milk and bring to the boil. Mix the flour with a little milk or stock, add it to the soup, stir and simmer for 5 minutes. Season to taste, add the cream, and serve. Croutons of fried or toasted bread should be handed separately.

Time. — 2f to 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. to Qd. without the stock. THE LENTIL (Fr.: Lentillc) belongs to the natural order Leguminosae or pulses, and is of t!io s.imc genus as the tares. The lentil is an annual plant, growing in height to about eighteen inches, \\ilti pale blue or whitish flowers. Its short, smooth pods contain two seeds each, and these form ii and Syria, Bengal and other Eastern countries, an important article of food. There are two cultivated varieties of the lentil, the large garden lentil and the field lentil. Its nutritive properties are of a hi^h order, and lentils cooked whole or in the form of meal are readily digested. Lentils form the basis of many of the prepared foods for invalids owing to the fact above mentioned. The constituent'; < f lentils in 100 parts are: — Water, 12.5; proteids, 24.8; fats, 1.8; carbo-hydrates, 58.4; salts, 2.5. 123.— LENTIL SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Lentilles.) Ingredients. — 3 quarts of water, i pint of lentils, i carrot, i strip of celery, i oz. of dripping or bacon fat, salt and pepper, i tablcspomifn! of flour.

Method. — Wash the lentils the day before the soup is wanted, strain, and spread on a dish. Cover with another dish and let them remain until ready for use. Slice the vegetables and fry them in the hot fat for a few minutes, as this improves the flavour of the soup. Add the water, and, when boiling, put in the lo'ntils and boil gently for -2^ to 3 hours, or until the lentils are tender. If convenient rub them through a wire sieve, if not, crush them by pressing them at the side of the

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pan with a wooden spoon. Mix the flour with a little cold milk or water, add it to the soup, stir and simmer for about 10 minutes, season to taste, and serve.

Ham or bacon bones greatly improve the flavour of lentil soup; it may also be improved by using less water, and adding a corresponding quantity of milk a few minutes before serving.

Time.— 3* to 4 hours. Average Cost, 3d. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons when followed by other substantial dishes. I24.— ONION SOUP. (Fr.— Puree aux Oignons.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of white stock, i pint of milk, 3 Spanish onions, 3 potatoes, i strip of celery, I oz. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, salt and Method.— Peel and slice the vegetables. Make the butter hot in a slewpan, and cook the vegetables in it for 15 minutes, but VERY SLCAVI.Y, and stirring frequently to prevent them taking any colour. Add the stock and simmer gently until tender (about i hour), then rub through a fine sieve. Return to the stewpan, put in the milk and bring to the boil. Mix the flour smoothly with a little milk, pour it into the soup, stir and simmer for a few minutes, then season to taste, and serve. Time. — 1| to 2 hours. Average Cost, /d. without the stock. Seasonable in Winter. Sufficient for 6 persons.

N (l-"r.: Oignon). — The well-known root of a liliaceous plant of the genus Alliunt, which fn un the earliest tmn's IMS been known and cultivated. By the ancient Egyptians it w i- so hmhlv valued that it was elevated into an object of worship, its concentric rings being re^ardtxi as the symbol "f eternity. The onion is eaten raw, roasted, boiled, pickled, and as a Savouring f«>r soups and st. w-. Its stroim odour and punp-nt taste arc due to the presence of a superfluous volatile oil. There anrieties of the onion, the Spanish, Portugal and Strasburg being the most esteemed. The union possesses highly nutritive properties.

125.— ONION SOUP. (Fr.— Puree aux Oignons.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of water, i£ pints of milk, 3 Spanish onions. | a turnip, 2 strips of celery, i oz. oi butter, i oz. of flour, the yolks of >, salt, pepper and bay-leaf, a blade of mace.

Method. — Cut the turnip and celery into small pieces, peel the onions, put them into cold water, bring to the boil, cook for 10 minutes, then drain and chop coarsely. Put 2 pints of boiling water into the stcwp.m, add the onions, celery, turnip, bay-leaf, mace, salt and pepper, and simmer until tender (about i hour). Rub through a fine sieve, return to the saucepan, add the milk, and when boiling stir in the flour and r, previously kneaded together. Simmer a few minutes to cook the flour, then let the soup cool slightly. Beat the yolks of the eggs H

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with a little milk, pour them into the soup, and stir until they thicken. Season, and serve with fried or toasted croutons of bread. Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 8d. or Qd. Seasonable in Winter 126.— PARSNIP SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Panais.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of second stock, i pint of milk, 3 or 4 parsnips, i onion, 2 strips of celery, i oz. of butter, the juice of a lemon, or i tablespoonful of vinegar, i dessertspoonful of flour, salt and pepper. Method. — Slice the vegetables, and fry them in the butter, without browning, for about 15 minutes. Add the stock, and simmer until the parsnips are tender (about 40 minutes), then rub through a wire sieve. Return to the stewpan, add the milk, salt and pepper, and bring to the boil. Mix the flour with a little milk or water, pour it into the soup, stir, and cook for 5 or 6 minutes. Add the lemon-juice and serve with croutons of fried or toasted bread. The lemon-juice is added to correct the sweetness of the parsnips, and is simply a matter of taste. Time. — 1£ to if hours. Average Cost, about yd. without the stock. Seasonable from October to April. Sufficient for 6 persons. PARSNIP (Fr.: Panais). — This is a biennial plant with bright yellow flowers and a root resembling the carrot, which in saccharine and nutritive matter it nearly equals. Like the carrot, it grows wilj in Britain, but only the cultivated parsnip is edible. It is generally distributed over most parts of Europe, and in Roman Catholic countries forms with salt fish a Lenten dish. A beverage is made from parsnips in conjunction with hops, and also a wine of agreeable flavour. The parsnip contains in 100 parts: — Water, 82.5; proteids, 1.3; fats, 0.7; carbo-hydrates, 14.5; salts, i.o. 127.— PEA SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Pois.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of stock or water (if water is used, ham or beef bones, either cooked or uncooked will improve the soup), i pint of dried split peas, 2 onions, 2 carrots, i small turnip, 2 strips of celery, i dessertspoonful of dried mint, salt and pepper, i oz. of flour. Method. — Wash the peas and soak them for 12 hours in water. Put them into a stewpan with the bones (if any) and the stock, and bring to the boil. Slice the vegetables and add them to the stock when it boils, and simmer for at least 3 hours. Then rub through a wire sieve, return to the saucepan, add the flour mixed smoothly with a little water, and boil. When the puree is thoroughly incorporated with the soup, season to taste, and serve. The dried mint should be placed in the tureen and the soup poured on to it.

Time. — 3^ to 4 hours. Average Cost, 4d. when made with water. Note. — When making pea soup in large quantities, the process of rubbing the vegetables through the sieve is omitted, and the turnips, carrots, etc., are cut into small pieces and added to the soup about i hour before serving.

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THE PEA (Fr.: Po«s).— The native country of the pea is unknown, but it is supposed to be indigenous to South-Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It was well known to the Romans, and has been cultivated from remote antiquity. The pea, a leguminous plant of the genus Pisum, has many varieties, including the garden pea and the field pea. When soft and juicy in the pods, peas are used for the table under the designation of " green peas." When hardened, peas become farinaceous, and a whitish and a blue variety which splits readily when subjected to the action of mill-stones specially constructed for that purpose is used largely for soups. There are some varieties of peas which have no inner filmy lining in their pods, known as " sugar-peas." The pods of these when young are frequently eaten cooked in a similar manner to kidney-beans. Bv the Hindus peas parched and ground and mixed with flour form an important article of diet. The pea is rich in nitrogenous matter, containing le^umin or vegetable casein, and is therefore useful as a flesh-forming food. The following urc the constituents of peas in too parts:— Water, 15.6; proteids, 22.0; fats, 2.0; carbo-hydrates, 58.0, salts, 2.4.

128.- -POTATO SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Pommes de Ingredients. — i quart of white second stock, or water, £ a pint of milk, i Ib. of potatoes, i onion, i strip of celery, i oz. of butter, i tablespoonful of fine sago, or crushed tapioca, salt and pepper.

Method. — Slice the potatoes, onion, and celery. Make the butter hot in a stewpan, add the vegetables, fry and cook until the butter is absorbed, stirring freqently to prevent them browning. Add the stock, and simmer until the vegetables are tender (about i hour).

Rub through a fine sieve; return to the saucepan, add the milk and bring to the boil. Sprinkle in the sago, cook until transparent, add seasoning to taste, and serve.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, Qd. to is. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

THE POTATO (Fr.: Pomme dt terre). — Next to the cereals, the potato constitutes one of the most important articles of vegetable food. It belongs to the natural order Solanacetr. which includes the nightshade, henbane, and tobacco, and is a native of the region of the Andes of South Amcru a. wln-nit grows wild; but in the uncultivated state its tubers are watery and tasteless. It was first introduced into Europe in the early part of the sixteenth century by the Spaniards, and in England by the Elizabethan adventurers, Sir John Hawkins, Sir Francis Drake, and Sir Walter RaK-i^h. It u.i^ grown on the estate of the last-named at Youghal, near Cork, and eaten as a food prior to its use in England. The potato is rich in starch, of which it contains about 15 per cent., and combined with flour makes excellent farinaceous foods. A strong coarse spirit, " ItritNh brandy," is obtained from the potato by distillation. The skin of the potato contains " Solanine." a poisonous substance, which is dissipated by boiling or steaming. Not being rich in flesh-forming con^t the potato is best used as an adjunct to meat or nitrogenous foods. The potato contains in too; Water, 74.0: proteids, 2.0; fa fats, 0.20; carbo-hydrates. 21.8; salts, i.o.

129.— PUREE OF ASPARAGUS. (Fr.— Puree d'Asperges.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock or water, i pint of milk, 50 heads of asparagus, i Spanish onion, i strip of celery, a bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i£ ozs. of butter, i dessertspoonful of cornflour or flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 tablcspoonfuls of cream, pepper and salt.

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Method. — Cut off the heads of the asparagus and put them aside, trim the stalks, cut them and the onion and celery into small pieces. Melt the butter in a stewpan and fry asparagus, celery and onion for 15 minutes, but slowly, so as not to brown them at all. Sprinkle in the cornflour or flour, let it cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the stock, milk, bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, and cook slowly for about 40 minutes. Pass through a fine sieve, return the soup to the stewpan, and stir until it boils. Have ready a small saucepan of boiling water, put in a little salt and the asparagus points, and cook for 10 or 15 minutes. Let the soup cool slightly, beat the yolks of the eggs and the cream together, pour them into the soup and stir until it thickens, taking care that the mixture does not boil, or the eggs will curdle. Put the asparagus points in the tureen, and pour in the soup.

Time. — 1£ to i^ hours. Average Cost, 2s. gd. to 33. 6d., exclusive of stock. Seasonable from March to July, but in full season in May, June and July. Sufficient for 6 persons.

ASPARAGUS (Fr.: Asperge). — A favourite culinary vegetable belonging to a genus of plants of the order Liliaceae. It is indigenous to Britain, and grows extensively in the southern steppes of Russia, in Poland, and in Greece, and was used as a vegetable by the Romans. The asparagus is raised from seed, and the young shoots of the plant only are used for the table. It possesses valuable diuretic properties.

130.— PUREE OF ASPARAGUS. (Fr.— Puree d'Asperges.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock or water, i pint of milk, 50 heads of asparagus, i Ib. of spinach, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut off the points of the asparagus and put them aside, trim the stalks and cut them into small pieces; wash and pick the spinach. Put the stock or water into a stewpan, and when it boils add the asparagus and spinach^ and cook until tender (about 40 minutes), then rub through a fine sieve. Have ready a small saucepan of boiling water, put in a little salt and the asparagus points, and cook for 10 or 15 minutes. Melt the butter in the stewpan, sprinkle in the flour, add the milk and stir until it boils, then put in the stock and puree of asparagus and spinach, salt and pepper to taste, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Place the asparagus points into the tureen, add the cream and necessary seasoning to the soup, and serve. Time. — T to i$ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 33., exclusive of stock. Seasonable from March to July. Sufficient for 6 persons.

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RKCIPES FOR Pl'RKKS 131.— SORREL SOUP. (Fr.— Creme d'Oseille.^ Ingredients. — £ of a Ib. of sorrel, picked and washed, i small 0*1 lettuce, 3 or 4 sprigs of tarragon, a few sprigs of chervil, i oz. ot biitu-r.:its of white stock, i gill of cream, | a pint of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces), yolks of 3 eggs.

Method. — Wash the sorrel and the lettuce, cut both up small, and put in a stewpan with the butter. Cook whilst stirring for about 5 minutes, then add the stock. Let the whole simmer gently for about I an hour, and rub through a fine sieve. Return the puree to a stewpan with the Bechamel sauce, season to taste with salt, prppn and a grate of nutmeg, re-heat, add the tarragon and chervil t 1 and cut into shreds, and cook for a few minutes longer. Add the n-iMin and the egg-yolks, previously beaten with a whisk, stir over the tin- lOr a few moments to cook the eggs, then s< Average Cost. — 2s. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable in spring and 132.— SPINACH SOUP. (Fr.— Puree d'Epinards.) Ingredients. — i pint of white second stock, i pint of milk, a spinach, i oz. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, pepper and salt. Method. Wash the spinach, remove the stalks, and put it into a;>an with just sufficient water to rover the; vent it burning. When tender, drain and rub thro, M< It the butter in a st.upan, sprinkle in the flour. then add the puree of spiiurh and tl;- •. little time. Boil, add the milk, sunnier a few mini; -n to ve.

Time. About r hour. Average Cost, od. to is. without the stock. Seasonable from Sufficient for.; 133-— SPRING SOUP. (Fr. Puree Printaniere Maigre.) lients.— i pint of i.oilin-,,s> 2 i turnip, -ood l.-tture. i bunch •.It and pepper. The volks of 2 nid 2 tablespoonfi.in improve the soup.) Method. Cut a t.ibl. -spoonful cv; rot and turnip into small •i"d the • !so cut up th« •he lettr tf some of tho stalks of ' the bul put in all lhr\' and turnip,. 1 let them Itean in t ho

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butter for 15 or 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the boiling water, and cook gently for i hour, then rub through a fine sieve. Have the milk boiling in the stewpan, put in the puree, with any liquor remaining with it, and boil. Meanwhile cook the dice of turnip and carrot separately in a little salt and water (allowing 25 minutes for the carrot, and 1 5 minutes for the turnip), and strain. Mix the flour smoothly with a little milk, add it to the soup, stir and cook for at least 5 minutes. Add the dice of carrot and turnip, cream and eggs if used, then season to Time. — if to 2 hours. Average Cost, about is. without cream and eggs. Seasonable in Spring. Sufficient for 6 persons. 134.— TRUFFLE SOUP. (Fr— Crime aux Truffes.) Ingredients. — i quart of rich, white stock, i pint consomme, i glass sherry or Marsala, £ Ib. fresh truffles, 3 button onions, i carrot, bouquet garni, i£ oz. butter, i oz. flour, salt, pepper, nutmeg, 2 yolks, £ gill cream.

Method. — Wash and brush the truffles, and cut them into slices; put them in a basin, pour over a glass of sherry or Marsala wine, and cover. Peel and chop the button onions, fry them a golden brown in the butter, stir in the flour, then add the truffles, and moisten with a quart of rich veal stock. Bring it to the boil, whilst stirring, add a small bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay -leaf), and i sliced carrot, and cook slowly for 30 minutes. Strain the soup, pound the truffles in a mortar, and rub through a fine sieve. Put the truffle puree in a stewpan with a pint of consomme, boil for 10 minutes; add the strained soup, and when boiling incorporate the egg-yolks mixed with the cream. Season to taste with salt, pepper and a grate of nutmeg. The soup is then ready for serving.

Time. — 40 minutes to i hour. Average Cost, 93. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable in winter.

135.— TURNIP SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Navets.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock or water, i pint of milk, 4 large turnips, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, nutmeg, salt, pepper and Method. — Peel the turnips and cut them into thin slices. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the turnips and let them cook very gently for 15 or 20 minutes, then put in the stock and simmer for 40 minutes or until the turnips are tender. Rub through a hair sieve, return to the saucepan, add the milk and boil up. Mix the flour smoothly with a

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little stock or milk, pour into the soup, stir and cook for 5 or 6 minutes, then add a good pinch of sugar, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and Time. — 1£ to i£ hours. Average Cost. 8d. to 9d. without stock. Seasonable in Winter. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. THE TURNIP (Fr.: Navel';.— The Greeks and Romans cultivated the turnip for table use and for feeding cattle. Nothing is known of its introduction into England, but two varieties, one annual the other biennial, of the wild turnip are found in Britain. In the reign of Elizabeth boiled turnips was a favourite dish. The turnip is much esteemed as a culinary vegetable; its nutritive properties however, are small, as water constitutes about 91 parts in too. The leaves and flower shoots of the turnip are often used as greens, and are called turnip tops. I36._VEGETABLE SOUP, GREEN. (Fr.— Puree de Legumes Verts.) Ingredients. — 2| pints of stock or water, % a pint of cream or milk, 1 Ib. of spinach, £ of a pint of shelled peas, i onion (sliced), a little green mint, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of rice-flour or ground-rice, salt and Method. — Wash and pick the spinach, put it into a saucepan with a little salt, adding a small piece of soda, if hard water is used; cover with cold waier, bring to the boil, strain, and press as dry as possible. Melt the butter, put in the spinach, % & Pmt of the peas, the onion, mint, herbs, and a little salt and pepper, put on the cover, and let the vegetable steam in the butter for at least 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Sprinkle in the rice-flour, mix it well with the vegetables, and then add the stock or water. Simmer for 35 or 40 minutes, rub through a fine hair sieve, and return to the saucepan. Bring to the boil, simmer for a few minutes, then let the soup cool slightly. Have the rest of the peas ready cooked, and add them to the soup. Beat the yolks of eggs with the cream (or milk), add it to the soup, and stir until it thickens, without boiling. Season to taste, and serve.

Time. — 1£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, is. lod. to 2S. with cream, not including the stock. Seasonable July to September, with tinned peas at any time. Sufficient for 6 persons.

137.— VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP. (Fr.— Puree de Courge.) Ingredients. — 2 pints of white second stock or water, i pint of milk, i large vegetable marrow, i onion, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, salt Method. — Mince the onion finely, cut the vegetable marrow into small pieces and remove the seeds. Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in the vegetables, put on the lid, and let the ingredients steam in the butter for 15 or 20 minutes. Add the milk and water, and cook gently for about 40 minutes, or until tender, then rub through a hair sieve.

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Melt the remaining oz. of butter, stir in the flour smoothly, add the soup, and stir until it boils. Simmer for 5 minutes, season to taste, and serve. Time. — 1£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, 8d. to lod. without the stock. Seasonable from August to October. Sufficient for 6 persons. VEGETABLE MARROW (Fr.: Ctwrge). — This is a species of gourd, belonging to the natural order Cucurbitaceae, which includes the gourds, melons, cucumbers, marrows, etc. It is cultivated as a culinary vegetable. The vegetable marrow contains a large percentage of water, it is not therefore very nutritious, but forms a useful adjunct to flesh foods. Fish Soups.

138.— BOUILLABAISSE. (A kind of Fish Stew.) Ingredients. — i red mullet, i sole, i whiting, I small eel, i small lobster, 6 mussels, i quart of fish stock, \ of a pint of salad oil, £ a gill (| of a pint) of claret, 3 small tomatoes, 2 small onions, i oz. of butter, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a clove of garlic, 2 cloves, a pinch of spinach, saffron, cayenne, salt and pepper, a croute of bread, Method. — Slice the onions and fry them brown in the oil. Mix the saffron with a little water; mince the garlic finely; steam the mussels and remove them from the shells; skin and fillet the sole, wash and cut the other fish into pieces convenient for serving. Pour away a little of the oil, add the Stock, claret, herbs, garlic, cloves, bouquetgarni, saffron, cayenne, salt and pepper, and bring nearly to boiling point; then put in all the fish and cook slowly for 20 minutes. Meanwhile trim the croute of bread to the size of the dish, fry goldenbrown in hot oil or fat, then fix it firmly in the centre of a deep dish by means of white of egg. Cut the tomatoes ACROSS in halves, squeeze out a little of the juice, and fry them slightly in hot butter. Arrange the pieces of fish on and around the croute, garnish with the tomatoes and parsley, and serve very hot with some of the liquor, well skimmed and strained, poured round it.

Time. — Altogether, i hour. Average Cost, 45. to 53. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 10 or 12 persons.

Note. — Bouillabaisse can be made of fresh-water fish, but is not so deliHmi-. as when made with sea-fish. It is of southern origin, and ought to be a highly seasoned dish. This soup is well-known to all readers of Thackeray by n-;i <n of his ballad in which, when visiting Paris as an " old fogey " he recalls his remembrances of younger and more jovial days.

This Bouillabaisse a noble dish is, A sort of soup, a broth, a brew, A hotch-potch of all sorts of fishes, That Greenwich never could outdo.

Green herbs, red peppers, mussels, saffron, Soles, onions, garlic, roach and dace; All these you eat at Torre's tavern, In that one dish of Bouillabaisse.

Thackeray's Ballad of Bouillabaisse.—

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RECIPES FOR FISH SOUPS 201 I39._BOUILLABAISSE. (Another Method.) Ingredients.— 3 pints of fish stock, i Spanish onion, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, 2 ozs. of creme de riz (or rice-flour), i glass of white wine (if liked), salt and pepper, fillets of fried fish.

Method.— Slice the onion finely and fry until golden brown in the salad oil. Stir in the creme de riz, add the stock, and stir until it boils; remove the scum as it rises, then cover, simmer gently for £ an hour, and rub through a tammy-cloth or fine hair sieve. Return to the saucepan, and bring nearly to boiling point. Beat the yolks of eggs, add to them the cream, strain into the soup, and stir by the side of the fire until the soup thickens slightly, but without boiling, or it may curdle. Add the wine, and season to taste. Have ready some SMALL fillets of sole, turbot, cod, or other white fish, fried in a little salad oil; place them in the tureen and pour the soup over them. Serve with fried croutons, and cut lemon.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, From is. od. to 2S. per quart. Seasonable at any time. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. 140.— CRAYFISH SOUP. (Fr.— Bisque d'Ecrevisses.) Ingredients. — 20 to 30 crayfish, 2 Ixined anchovies, 4 ozs. of butter of rice, i French dinner roll, i small onion, 2 cloves, 2 quarts of fish stock, j of a pint of milk, about j of a pint of cream, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method. — Remove the gut from the centre fin of the tail of each crayfish. Shell the fish, and pound the shells, half the tails, and the anchovies, in the mortar, with the butter. Place the pounded materials;e\\pan, stir until hot, then add the rice, previously \\. and drained, the onion and cloves. Fry for about 15 minutes, then pour in the stock, bring to the boil, and simmer until the rice is tender. Meanwhile soak the crumb of the French roll in the milk until soft and add it to the soup. When the rice is sufficiently cooked rub the soup through a tammy-cloth or fine sieve, and return it to tho stewpan. Ke-heat, season to taste; add the lemon-juice, cream, and the remainder of the crayfish tails. Serve with croutons of fried or toasted Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 35. Seasonable all the year. THE CRAYFISH or CRAWFISH (Fr.: Ecrevisse), or river lobster, is a long-tailed, ten-footed crustacean ling thr lobster, and similar to it in its habits. It was considered a delicacy by the Greeks and. and was eaten by them seasoned with pepper and other condiments. Crayfish are t><->t pre! i v,-bv keeping them in baskets with fr.-»h ur.i-.-r pl.uit- su< \\ a- the nettle, or in a v. tainins only a sii-ht depth of water. A- th<. r i\ti-h requires a quantity of air, the water should be

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141.— EEL BROTH. (Fr.— Bouillon d'Anguille.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized onion, i oz. dripping or butter, i skinned eel, 3 pints stock or water, i tablespoonful of crushed tapioca or sago, salt, pepper, chopped parsley.

Method. — Peel and slice the onion, and fry it in hot fat till pale-brown, but not burnt. Cut up a skinned eel, put it into the pan containing the fried onion, add 3 pints of stock or water, boil, skim, and simmer gently for about i hour. 20 minutes before serving, strain, replace in the stewpan, sprinkle in the tapioca or sago, and season with salt and pepper. Serve with a little chopped parsley put in at the last moment.

Time. — i to ij hours. Average Cost, if made with stock, 2s. per quart. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable from September to May. 142.— EEL SOUP. (Fr.— Soupe aux Anguilles.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of eels, i onion, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 blades of mace, i bunch of sweet herbs, £ an oz. of peppercorns, salt to taste, 2 tablespoonfuls of flour, £ of a pint of cream, 2 quarts of water. Method. — Wash the eels, cut them into small pieces, and put them in the stewpan with the butter; let them simmer for a few minutes, then add the water, the onion cut in thin slices, the herbs, mace, and seasoning. Simmer till the eels are tender, but unbroken. Dish carefully and keep hot. Mix the flour to a batter with a little water, stir it into the soup, and boil. Add the cream, pour over the eels and Time. — i hour, or rather more. Average Cost, 2S. Seasonable from June to March. Sufficient for 8 persons.

143.— HADDOCK SOUP. (Fr.— Potagede Merluche.) Ingredients. — i fresh haddock, 2 ozs. of butter or dripping, i oz. of flour, i pint of stock or water, i pint of milk, i onion, seasoning. Method. — Wipe the fish, remove the fins and eyes, and cut it into pieces. Boil it in stock or water, and add the milk and onion (peeled and stuck with a clove). Melt the butter or dripping, stir in the flour, and cook for a few minutes without. browning. To this add by degrees the fish stock and fish, and let the preparation simmer for 30 minutes. Pass the soup through a sieve, return to the stewpan, season to taste with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Serve with fried bread croutons. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 5 persons. Seasonable at all times.

144.— LOBSTER SOUP. (Fr.— Bisque de Homard.) Ingredients. — i large lobster, i quart of stock (preferably fish), | a

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RECIPES FOR FISH SOUPS 203 pint of milk, 2 ozs. oi butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i carrot, |a turnip, i or 2 strips of celery, 3 or 4 shallots, or i small onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i teaspoonful of anchovy essence, salt and pepper, small quenelles of whiting or other white fish. Method. — Slice the vegetables and fry them in the butter until pale brown, then stir in the flour, add the stock, and stir until it boils. Remove the shell of the lobster, cut the meat from the claws into dice or cubes, and set it aside until wanted. Add the bouquet-garni, the rest of the lobster, and the pounded shell to the stock, simmer for £ an hour; then take out the shell and rub the rest through a fine sieve. Return to the saucepan, add the milk, and when near boiling point put in the quenelles, anchovy-essence, and necessary seasoning. Place the dice of lobster in the tureen, and pour in the soup. Time.— i £ hours.— Average Cost, 2s. Qd. to 35. Seasonable from April to October. Sufficient for 6 persons.

1 45. —OYSTER SOUP. (Fr.— Potage aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — i Ib. knuckle of veal, i Ib. of plaice, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, | a pint of milk, £ a pint of cream, 1 8 oysters, i onion, i bay-leaf, i teaspoonful of anchovy essence, salt and pepper. Method. — To i quart of cold water add the veal cut into small pieces, the onion and bay-leaf. Simmer gently for 3 hours, then strain, and when cold remove the fat. Fillet the plaice, remove the black skin, and simmer the fish in i quart of cold water for about i hour, or until it is reduced to shreds, then rub through a fine sieve. Simmer the beards of the oysters in £ a pint of the fish stock, add the liquor from the oysters, strain, and put aside. Mix together the veal and fish stock, and bring to boiling point. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then pour in the hot stock and stir until it boils. Now add the milk, oyster liquor, anchovy-essence, and season to taste. If the oysters are large, cut them in halves, and put them into the boiling soup just before serving, but they must not be allowed to cook. Stir in the cream at the last moment.

Time.— 2 hours, after veal stock is made. Average Cost, 35. 6d. Seasonable from September to April. Sufficient for 10 persons. 146.— SKATE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Raie.) Ingredients. — i skate, weighing from H to 2 Ib., i onion sliced, i strip of celery in small pieces, i bay-leaf, 2 ozs. of vermicelli, 2 yolks of eggs, £ of a pint of cream, salt and pepper, 3 pints of water. Method. — Clean the skate thoroughly, and let it hang at least a day, and in cold weather even longer. When ready to use, remove the skin,

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divide the flesh into fillets, which put aside. Put the bones and trim1mings into a saucepan, add the water, onion, celery, bay-leaf, white pepper or peppercorns, and a little salt, and simmer gently for i hour. Strain, return the stock to the saucepan, bring to the boil, and add the fillets of fish. Continue to cook slowly for 10 minutes, then sprinkle in the vermicelli, and after 5 minutes further cooking, add the yolks of eggs and cream previously well beaten together. Stir and cook gently until the soup thickens slightly, then season to taste, and serve. Time. — About i| hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 23, Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable in winter.

Miscellaneous.

147.— BAKED SOUP. (Fr.— Potage cuit au four.) Ingredients. — 2 quarts of cold water, i Ib. of lean beef or mutton, £ a pint of split peas, i tablespoonful of rice, i onion sliced, i carrot, Method. — Wash the rice and peas, put them into a stew-jar with the vegetables and the meat, cut into small pieces, season with salt and pepper, and add the water. Cover closely, cook in a rather slow oven for 3 or 4 hours, skim, and turn the whole into a soup tureen, and serve. Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable in winter.

148.— BAKED SOUP OR COTTAGE SOUP.

(Fr. — Potage Paysanne.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of lean beef, i onion sliced, i carrot sliced, £ of a turnip sliced, 2 tomatoes sliced, 2 or 3 strips of celery shredded, 2 ozs. of rice blanched, salt and pepper, 4 pints of cold water. Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces, put it into a stewjar with the prepared vegetables, water, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, cover closely, cook in a slow oven for 4 hours, adding the rice about i hour before serving. Turn the whole into a soup tureen, or serve in the pot in which it was cooked.

Time. — 4 hours. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 persons* Seasonable at any time, especially in winter.

149.— BAKED SOUP OR COTTAGE SOUP.

(Fr. — Potage Paysanne.) Another Method.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of lean beef, i onion, i carrot, i turnip, £ a head of celery, 2 tomatoes, 2 ozs. of boiled rice, seasoning. Method. — Cut the meat into dice-shaped pieces, peel the onion, carrot and turnip, clean the celery, and cut up each into slices or small pieces.

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fcECIPES FOR MISCELLANEOUS SOUPS 205 Slice the tomatoes. Put all the ingredients, including the rice, in layers, into an earthenware soup-pot with 4 to 5 pints «>i water. Season to taste, and cover the pan; when it boils, skim and place the pan with the lid on in the oven. Allow it to cook in the oven lor about 2 hours, or longer. Serve the soup in the soup-pot in which it i^ cooked. Time.— 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. Sufficient lor 5-6 persons. Seasonable at all times.

150.— BENEVOLENT SOUP.

Cheap soup, suitable for a soup kitchen.

Ingredients. — -J- an ox-cheek, 4 celery tops, 2 large carrots, 4 lar^e onions, 2 large turnips, i cabbage, salt and pepper, a bunch of herbs, 10 quarts of cold water, i£ pints dried peas or lentils. Method. — Bone the ox-cheek, cut up the meat into small ]•: put all into a large boiler, add the cold water; when it comes to the boil skim, then throw in the vegetables, which have been cleaned and cut in quarters, the bunch of herbs, pepper and salt. Let these m^redic-iUs simmer gently for 4 hours. Add the cabbage an hour belore serving. If peas or lentils are used soak them over night, then cook them with the above ingredients. Season the soup again just before Time. — 6 or 7 hours. Average Cost, 2d. per pint. Seasonable at any 151.— BONE SOUP.

Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of bones, cooked or uncooked, 2 carrots, 2 onions, i turnip, i strip of celery, a bouquet r^ley, thyme, IMV Ir.it. u peppercorns, 2 cloves, 2 tablespoonfuls of tine sa.n<», crushed t: semolina-, or Florador, 2 oz. of fat, salt, 5 pints of water. Method. — Break tho bones into small pieces, and fry them in the hot fat until well browned. Put in the water and a dessertspoonful of salt, bring to the boil and skim well. Add the prepared \e;e tables (cut into thick slices), herbs, peppercorns, and cloves, and cook gently for about 5 hours, skimming occasionally. Strain, return to the saucepan, i to taste, and when the soup boils sprinkle in the sago, or whatever farinaceous substance is used, simmer for i-> minutes longer to cook the sago, then serve.

Time.— About 6 hours. Cost, yd. to is. Seasonable at any time. — The stock lor this soup could be made the day before the soup is wanted, and the sago sprinkled in when re-heated. 152.— BRILLA SOUP.

Ingredients. — 3 quarts of cold water, 2^ Ib. of shin of beef, i onion,

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i carrot, £• of a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i tablespoonful of fine sago, salt and pepper.

Method. — Place the meat and water in an earthenware stewing- jar, add a little salt, cook gently on the stove, or in a moderate oven, for 4 hours, then strain off the liquor. When cold, remove the fat from the surface, and boil up the stock. Meanwhile cut the vegetables into small dice, add them to the stock when boiling, put in the bouquet-garni, and simmer gently until the vegetables are tender. 10 minutes before serving sprinkle in the sago, and stir occasionally to prevent it sinking to the bottom of the pan. When ready, season to taste, and serve. Time. — About \ an hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time. I53._COW-HEEL SOUP.

Ingredients. — i cow-heel, 3 pints of water, i onion, i carrot, i strip of celery, i tablespoonful of sago or crushed tapioca, chopped parsley, lemon juice, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg.

Method. — Clean and scald one cow-heel, divide into 4 parts, and put them in a stewpan with the cold water. Add a good pinch of salt, boil up, skim, and add soup, vegetables (onion, carrot and celery). Let these simmer gently for 3 hours or longer, then strain and season. Remove some of the meat from the bones and cut it into very small pieces; put these with the broth, let it boil, and stir in a tablespoonful of sago or crushed tapioca. Boil for another 25 minutes, then serve, adding a little chopped parsley and lemon-juice just before sending it to table. This soup, when well made, is considered very delicious as well as nourishing.

Time. — 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. Sufficient for 4 persons. 154.— SOUR CHERRY SOUP. (Fr.— Soupe aux Cerises.) Ingredients.— i Ib. of sour cooking cherries (stoned), 3 or 4 Invicbachs (rusks), 3 pints of water, 2 inches of cinnamon, lemon-rind, £ of a Ib. of loaf sugar, % of a pint of white or red wine, i oz. of butter, % an oz. of flour, a pinch of salt.

Method. — Put the stoned cherries in a stewpan. Break the cherry stones and remove the kernels, add them to the cherries, put in the water and the broken pieces of rusks, cinnamon and lemon rind. Cook slowly for 20 minutes, then rub all through a sieve. Melt the butter in another stewpan, add flour, and fry a chestnut-brown colour. Moisten with the wine and a little water. Add the cherry pulp, etc., sugar, and a small pinch of salt. Boil again, and serve hot or cold. Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable in June and July.

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GRAVIES, SAUCES AND FORCEMEATS.

CHAPTER IX.

General observations on Gravies and Sauces, with directions in regard to the foundation or standard Sauces, See.

Sauces and Gravies. — Until the end of the eighteenth century cookery was a neglected art in England, and sauces were practically unknown. A celebrated Frenchman who lived in that age humorously described us as " a nation with one sauce." History has not recorded the name of that particular sauce; but it could not have been the ancient sauce of the Romans, which tradition has handed down to us under the naim* of " Garum." This sauce is made from anchovy brine, and is largely used by the Turks in the preparation of their national dish, " Pilau," but the presence of the strong flavour of anchovy, however desirable in itself, would prevent its use in many dishes. Possibly " nu-lud butter " filled the double office of " sweet " and " savoury "; and it would be difficult in the present day to find any individual who passes muster as a plain cook, whose knowledge of sauces is as restricted as that of the nation a hundred years ago. The unit must now be multiplied by something like 650 to arrive at an approximate estimate of the sauces and gravies in use at the present day. Importance of Sauces. — Brillat-Savarin, speaking of this branch of cookery, says: " One can learn to cook, and one can be taught to roast, but a good sauce-maker is a genius born, not made." Alexis Soyer, referring to this subject, writes: " Sauces are to cookery what grammar is to language " — a most apt comparison, for grammars have been adapted in a hundred different ways to suit the genius of the languages they dominate. And so with sauces; they form an essential part of cookery, yet the innumerable variations of each class have to be skilfully adapted to the dishes with which they are amalgamated or served, in order to give some necessary flavouring or produce some desired effect. Every cook should endeavour to attain proficiency in this branch of cookery, a task by no means so difficult as the number of sauces would lead us to suppose, for, if the few which have for their ither oil. wine or fruit, are excluded, the remainder are simply tions of the two foundation sauces, white and brown. so?

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Use of Sauces and Gravies. — Each sauce must possess a distinct flavour and character of its own, and add either richness, piquancy, or flavour without losing its own identity; but unless purposely employed to disgijise the absence of flavour in some insipid substance, they should never be allowed to overpower the natural flavour of dishes of game, poultry, meat, etc,, with which they are served. The excellence of many entrees depends almost entirely on the sauces which enter largely into their composition. Boiled fish would be insipid without an appropriately flavoured sauce. Some dishes of boiled meat, and many simple puddings are almost unpalatable without their customary sauces; while a good gravy is indispensable with meat, poultry, and game. Difference between Sauces and Gravies. — Gravy is simply the juices of meat, diluted and seasoned but not thickened, except the slightlythickened brown gravy, which ought really to rank as a thin sauce. Sauce. — Sauce has been defined as a LIQUID SEASONING, thickened by means of one of the following liaisons (or mixtures of yolk of eggs, cream, etc., used for thickening or binding white soups and sauces): — 1. Roux — white.

2. „ fawn.

4. Eggs and cream.

5. Butter and cream.

6. Blended butter and flour.

7. Blood.

8. Arrowroot, cornflour, Fecule.

Roux. — The literal translation of this word is " russet," but in a culinary sense it is a mixture of equal quantities of butter and flour cooked over a slow fire, or in a cool oven, until the desired colour is acquired. There are three varieties of roux: white, fawn, and brown; and this form of thickening is generally employed in making good sauces. It may be made in small quantities as required, or in larger quantities, which, if closely covered, will keep good for months. When roux is made for immediate use it should be allowed to cool slightly before adding the liquid to it. When using perfectly cold roux, the liquid should bo added to it more gradually: in both cases the sauce must be constantly stirred until it boils, and then allowed to simmer until it Attains the required consistency. A heapcd-up tablespoonful of roux will thicken I pint of liquid. Directions for the preparation of the respective liaisons (sauce thickenings) will be found in the following p; THE BASES OR FOUNDATIONS OF SAUCES.

The following liquids form the bases of most of the sauces: — i. White Stock. — Nearly all the good white savoury sauces have for their foundation white stock and milk, used in varying proper tim

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GRAVIES, SAUCES AND FORCEMEATS 209 2. Brown Stock. — All good brown savoury sauces are made from stock, more or less rich according to the purpose for which they are intended. 3. Fish Stock.— Fish sauces usually have for their foundation about equal quantities of fish stock and milk.

4. Milk. — Milk forms the basis of nearly all the plain white sauces, both sweet and savoury, also of bread sauce.

5. Water. — Strictly speaking, all melted butter sauces should be made only with water; a little of the broth in which fish or meat has been boiled is admissible, and is also an improvement to caper sauce; but when milk is added to the broth, as is frequently the case, to improve the colour, the foundation becomes white sauce, not melted butter 6. Oil, — Mayonnaise sauce, and others of a similar character known as salad sauce, are composed almost entirely of oil as their basis 7. Fruit. — Apple, cranberry, gooseberry, etc.

VARIETIES OF SAUCES.

Sauces may be broadly divided into two classes, white and brown; each class being further subdivided into sauces made by a long, slow process, and quickly-made sauces.

FOUNDATION OF STANDARD SAUCES.

(a) White. — Bechamel forms the foundation of all t he good white samvs, it is made by the slow process, which extracts the full flavour ot the substances employed.

(b) Plain White Sauce. — Nearly all the white sauces employed in middle-class cookery have for their foundation a plain white sauce made by the quick process. Their flavour depends mainly on the substances added to them, such as parsley, celery, chocolate, vanilla, orange-essence, etc.

(a) Brown. — Espagnole.— This sauce and the B6chamel have been aptly described as " Adam " and " Eve." France adds to them the Yeloutee and Allcmande, and calls the group the " sauces meres," or " mother sauces." The Espagnole forms the basis of all good brown sauces, and these, like the white sauces, derive their distinctive names from the substances added to the foundation sauce. The rich exquisite characteristic flavour of Espagnole sauce is due partly to the lean bacon or ham which forms an indispensable part of it, and partly to the long, slow frying process to which the flour and other ingredients are subjected.

(b) Plain Brown Sauces. — These sauces are always less quickly made than the plain white sauces, for no matter how simple they may be.

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the flour must be fried brown before adding the liquid. A little caramel may be introduced to IMPROVE the colour, but it imparts nothing to the flavour, whereas frying develops the full flavour of both the flour and vegetables used in making brown sauces.

STOCK FOR GRAVY.

Gravy, pure and simple, is usually described as " the juices of the meat "; and it has been said that good gravy is an evidence of bad roasting or baking. But experience teaches us that the best gravy accompanies a joint which has been roasted before an open fire and well basted during the process, as is the custom in the north of England. Notwithstanding the argument that if the juices of the meat are in the gravy the joint must suffer, the north-country meat, when cut, is found to be full of gravy. Long before science had discovered the coagulating properties of albumin, it was the custom to put plenty of dripping into the tin before the fire, and as soon as it was hot the joint was hung on the " jack " and well basted. Without knowing the " why and wherefore," the most ignorant housewife would have explained that this method KEPT THE GRAVY IN. As the meat cooked before the clear bright fire it became crisp and brown; and each time it was basted some of the brown particles on the surface of the joint were carried down into the dripping and settled on the bottom of the tin, to be afterwards converted into gravy. From the above facts, we draw the conclusion that a browned surface and frequent basting produce good gravy. Meat baked in the oven has not quite the same flavour and nourishment as when roasted, but a juicy joint and good gravy are possibilities under the following conditions: the joint must be well basted with melted dripping or other fat before being put into the oven; the oven must be kept fairly hot until the meat is well browned all over; in the later stages of cooking the oven door should not be entirely closed, for meat cannot become crisp and brown in an oven full of steam; the joint must be frequently basted. Gravy in its most simple form is made by adding boiling water to the sediment which remains in the meat tin when the fat has been carefully poured off. It should be seasoned to taste, boiled up, stirring meanwhile to loosen the brown particles which adhere to the sides of the tin, well skimmed, and strained over or round the meat. Any bones that have been removed from the meat may be boiled to form the basis of the gravy, but nothing else must be introduced. Beef gravy must contain only salt and pepper; and mutton gravy the same ingredients, and a few drops of caramel when the gravy is very light in colour. Veal gravy, also, should be made from the bones, and after being mixed with that in the meat tin, should be slightly thickened with flour and butter kneaded together, or flour mixed smoothly with a little water. Gravies served with game, roast rabbit?, etc., may be made frorn. beef,

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GRAVIES, SAUCES AND FORCEMEATS 211 beef or game bones, or from stock. Clear stock must be used for clear gravies, but with this exception, any good second stock will serve. An economical cook will always contrive to provide the basis of gravies, sauces, and soups out of the bones and trimmings of poultry and meat, except, of course, the clear soups and gravies, which must have a good clear stock for their foundation.

STOCK FOR SAUCES.

Bechamel, Veloutee, Allemande, and sauces of a similar character, must have for their foundation white stock made from chicken or veal, or the bones and trimmings of the same. The stock for Espagnole sauce, and those sauces of which it forms the basis, may be made from any kind of meat, trimmings, bones, livers, and gizzards of game and poultry; it must be rich, of good colour, but not necessarily very clear. The second stock (No. 7,) well reduced, would be suitable for this purpose.

\«!c. — If the stock is poor it can be enriched by the addition of a small quantity of "Lemco" Meat Extract.

CONSISTENCY OF SAUCES.

The consistency of a sauce varies according to its use. For a coating sauce, that is, a sauce thick enough to mask a chicken, cutlets, etc., over which it is poured, the proportions are i£ ozs. of flour to i pint of liquid, when made by the slow process, during which the sauce becomes considerably reduced, but when made by the quick process nearly 2 ozs. of flour must be allowed to i pint of liquid. Sauces to be served separately in a sauceboat or poured round the base of a dish, should be made a little thinner, but it is always better to err on the side of overthickening, it being much easier to reduce the consistency by adding a little more stock or milk, than to increase the consistency by reducing the quantity. The latter can only be done by boiling the liquid rapidly in an uncovered pan, which is not always convenient at the time of serving dinner. Reducing by rapid boiling is a method which may be usefully employed in dealing with stock too poor to make a suitable foundation for a good soup or sauce. As the stock is reduced by evaporation, its flavour and richness become concentrated, and if frequently skimmed it gains considerably in brightness and colour. TIME REQUIRED FOR COOKING.

Sauces made by the slow process are allowed to simmer for 2 or 3 hours, or until all the unabsorbed fat conies to the surface. Frequent stirring is necessary, also occasional skimming to remove the fat as it rises. The ordinary, or quickly-made sauces, should not have the liquid added until the flour and butter have been cooked together for 3 or 4 minutes, or, when flour kneaded with butter is used, or flour moistened with milk or stock is used, the liquid to which they are added should be allowed to simmer for at least

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5 minutes after coming to the boil, otherwise the sauce has an unpleasant taste of raw flour.

Sometimes sauces made by the long process are over-cooked and become oily. In this case a little cold stock, milk or water, can be added, and the sauce stirred until it boils, when it will again become smooth, but it must then immediately be removed from the fire. PREPARATIONS OF INGREDIENTS.

To avoid repetition, the vegetables used in the following recipes are spoken of as " prepared," meaning that the carrots have been scraped, the turnips peeled, and the onions peeled. A bouquet-garni consists of a sprig or two of parsley, a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, a sprig of marjoram, a sprig of basil, and a blade of mace, all tied together in a little bouquet. Any of these herbs may be omitted and others substituted, according to taste. As regards the quantities given in the recipes, they have been kept as uniform as possible; and in most cases provide sufficient sauce to fill a sauce-tureen, or for pouring round an entree or pudding. THICKENINGS FOR SAUCES.

White Roux. — In making white roux, equal quantities of butter and flour are stirred in a stewpan over a slow fire for 10 or 15 minutes, but without allowing the roux to take any colour. If for immediate use, the roux must cool slightly before adding the liquid. Fawn Roux. — For fawn or blonde roux, take equal quantities of butter and flour, and cook slowly over the fire or in a cool oven until the mixture acquires a pale fawn colour.

Brown Roux. — This third variety is usually called " stock roux," because where roux is being constantly used a large quantity of it is made and kept in stock. The proportion of butter and flour are the same as for white and fawn roux. The nut-brown colour is obtained by a long, slow process of frying or roasting, during which much of the flavour characteristic of well-made brown sauce is developed. Egg Liaison. — This thickening is composed of yolks of eggs beaten up with a small quantity of cream, milk, or white stock. The sauce to which this liaison (or thickening) is added must require no further cooking. One to two tablespoonfuls of hot sauce should be mixed with the eggs and cream, and the whole then strained into the sauce, which should be just below boiling point. To remove the raw taste of the eggs, it is necessary to cook and stir the sauce by the side of the fire for a few minutes, but it must not be allowed to boil, or the eggs may curdle.

Butter and Cream Liaison. — When butter and cream are employed for

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GRAVIES, SAUCES AM) FORCEMEATS 213 thickening, they are added in equal proportions to the sauce ji/sr i.LiokE SKKVING: re-heating would spoil the flavour of the sauce. Kneaded Butter Liaison. — This form of liaison is exceedingly useful when no roux is at hand, and a little additional thickein aired. Butter will absorb about its own weight in flour, and the two are knead?d together on a plate until all the flour is absorbed, or, in other words, thoroughly moistened by the butter. This liaison should be added to the sauce in small portions and stirred until it is smoothly mixed with it.

Blood Liaison. — This liaison is used principally to thicken sauces for game and poultry entrees. The blood of poultry or game should be mixed with a little vinegar, to prevent coagulation. It should be strained and added gradually to the sauce a few minutes before Arrowroot, Cornflour, Fecule Liaison. — Before adding any of these substances to the sauce, they must be smoothly mixed with a little cold stock, milk, or water. The liaison is stirred into the boiling sauce, and simmered for not less than 2 minutes to cook the starch.

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GRAVIES, SAUCES AND FORCEMEATS.

CHAPTER X.

Auxiliaries for Sauces, Compound Butters, Gravies, etc., White Sauces (hot and cold) and Salad Dressings, Brown, Fish, Fruit, Sweet and Miscellaneous Sauces, Forcemeats, etc.

Auxiliaries for Sauces.

I55.—CARAMEL FOR COLOURING SAUCES.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of castor or moist sugar, 3 gills of water. Method. — Put the sugar and a good tablespoonf ul of water into an untinned stewpan, and stir over the fire until it becom.es dark-brown. Boil it, add the rest of the water to the sugar, stir until it boils, simmer until the caramel acquires the consistency of syrup, and, when cold, bottle for use. It may be used for sweet or savoury sauces. Time. — About 40 minutes.

156.— CARAMEL FOR COLOURING SAUCES.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of sugar, 2 tablespoonf uls of salt, £ of a pint of boiling water.

Method. — Put the salt and sugar into an iron saucepan or frying pan, and stir and cook until dark-brown, add the water, boil well, and, when cold, bottle for use.

Time. — About 30 minutes.

157— CHILI VINEGAR.

Ingredients. — 50 fresh red English chilies, i pint of vinegar. Method. — Pound the chilies or cut them in half, and infuse them in the vinegar for a fortnight, when it will be fit for use. This will be found an agreeable relish to fish, as many people prefer to eat it with the addition of an acid and cayenne pepper.

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RECIPES FOR COMPOUND BUTTERS 215 Compound Butters.

Chiefly used for the enrichment of sauces.

I58._ CRAYFISH OR SHRIMP BUTTER. (Fr.Beurre d'Ecrevisses.) Method. — Pound £ a pint of picked shrimps or prawns in a mortar till smooth, add 3 ozs. of fresh butter, £ an oz. of anchovy paste; mix thoroughly, and rub through a fine sieve. Keep on the ice till wanted. A. little liquid carmine or cochineal may be added to improve colour, if found necessary.

159.— DEVILLED BUTTER. (Fr— Beurre a la Diable.) Method. — Mix i oz. of butter with white pepper, cayenne, and currypaste, about a saltspoonful of each, and blend thoroughly with a few irops of lemon- juice.

1 60.— LOBSTER BUTTER. (Fr.— Beurre de Homard.) Method. — Procure the eggs (spawn) and coral of a lobster, pound ill smooth in a mortar with double its weight of fresh butter, rub hrough a fine sieve, and keep in a cool place till required. c 6 1.— MONTPELLIER BUTTER. (Fr. —Beurre Montpellier.) Ingredients. — 2 ozs. each of parsley, chervil, tarragon, chives and cress;: anchovies, 9 yolks of hard-boiled eggs, 3 ozs. of butter, i teaspoonful >f capers, i gherkin.

Method. — Wash and pick the parsley, cress and herbs, blanch for; minutes, strain and cool. Dry well in a cloth, and pound in a nortar. Wipe and bone the anchovies, pound them in a mortar with he egg-yolks, capers, and gherkins until smooth, then add the butter,nd lastly the green puree. Pass through a wire sieve, and use as equired. A little spinach may be added if the herbs should not colour he butter sufficiently.

:62.— RAVIGOTE OR GREEN BUTTER. (Fr.— Beurre Ravigote.) Ingredients. — 1£ ozs. of chervil, 2 ozs. of spinach, i£ ozs. of green hives, i oz. of tarragon, £ an oz. of parsley, 3 shallots, 6 ozs. of butter, alt and pepper.

Method. — Put the chervil, spinach, chives, tarragon and parsley into. saucepan with waier, blanch and drain well, then pound these ingredints in a mortar. Peel and chop the shallots finely, cook them in a it tie butter until golden-brown, and mix them with the herbs. When

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cold, work in the remainder of the butter, pass through a fine sieve, and add a little pepper and salt and spinach-greening, if necessary. SPINACH (Fr. Epinards) is cultivated for its young leaves, which ^re prepared for the table by boiling or frying. Two principal varieties of spinach are cultivated, prickly spinach with triangular and arrow-shaped leaves; and smooth spinach, the leaves of which are round and blunt. Flanders spinach is also grown for the market. It is a wholesome vegetable, and one of its constituents being iron, spinach is beneficial to persons who suffer from anaemia. Gravies.

163.— BEEF GRAVY FOR POULTRY, GAME, Etc.

Ingredients.— i pint of cold water, £ a lb. of lean beef, i small onion, Method.— Cut the beef into small pieces, put it with the onion and the water into a stewpan, or earthenware stewjar, and cook slowly for 3 or 4 hours. Strain, season, and use as required.

Time. — 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 6d. Quantity, about f pint.

164.— BROWN GRAVY. (Fr.— Jus brun.) Ingredients. — i quart of water, i lb. of neck or shin of beef, i oz. of butter, i oz. of sweet dripping, 4- oz. of flour, i medium-sized onion, i small slice of lean bacon, or a few trimmings of lean ham or bacon, salt and pepper, i clove, if liked.

Method. — Cut the meat and bacon into small pieces, slice the onion. Melt the dripping in a stewpan, put in the meat, bacon, and onion, and fry till brown. Add the water, salt and pepper, and clove, cook slowly for 3 or 4 hours, and strain. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 5 minutes. Add the gravy, stir until it boils, skim, simmer for 10 minutes, and use as required.

Time. — 3^ to 4^ hours. Average Cost, about lod. Quantity, i pint. CLOVES (Fr. Clou de girofle). — An ^.eeable pungent aromatic spice, obtained from the dried flower buds of the Caryophyllus aromaticus, a handsome branching tree with, purplish flowers, allied to the myrtle. The name is derived from the Latin, clavus, and French, clou, " a nail," to which the clove is supposed to bear a resemblance. The clove is a native of the Molucca Islands, but is successfully cultivated in Jamaica, Sumatra, Mauritius, Cayenne, Malacca, Trinidad, and other places. The Amboyna, or royal clove, is said to be the best, and is obtained from the island of that name, colonized by the Dutch. The clove contains about 20 per cent, of volatile oil, which abounds in every part of the plant, occasioning its peculiar pungent flavour; the rest is composed of woody fibre, water, gum, and resin. Cloves are used medicinally, but are chiefly employed for culinary purposes. 165.— BROWN GRAVY FOR ROAST RABBIT.

Ingredients. — i pint of water, i oz. of beef dripping, i oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, the liver of the rabbit, i medium-sized onion, £ a carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper.

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RECIPES FOR GRAVIES 217 Method. — Slice the vegetables, cut the liver into small pieces. M- It the dripping in a stcwpan, fry the vegetables and liver to a nice brown, then add the water, bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, and cook slowly for i hour. Strain and return to the saucepan, knead the flour and buttwr well together on a plate, add it, in small portions, to the gravy, si ir and cook for ten minutes. Season to taste, add a few drops of caramel to improve the colour, and serve.

Time. — 1£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, 2M. Ouantity, about ] pint. 166.— GRAVY (Quickly made). (Fr.— Jus de Viande.) Ingredients. — J of a pint of water, V a Ib. of shin of beef, £ an oz. of butter, | an onion, £ of a carrot, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat and vegetables into small pieces and fry them brown in the butter. Add the water, salt and pepper, and simmer for ! an hour. Strain, season, and serve. The meat and vegetables should afterwards be put into the stock-pot, or with more water added to them may be cooked until all their goodness is extracted. Time. — From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, about 5d. (Juantity, about | a pint.

167.— GRAVY FOR GAME. (Fr.— Jus de Gibier.) Ingredients. -Hones and trimmings of game, sufficient cold water to cover them, a bay-leaf, I clove, 6 peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, a small piece of onion, i oz of butter (or less if making a small quant it y\ Method.— Cut up the trimmings and break the bones into small. Melt the butter, add the bones and meat, and the rest of the ingredients, cover with water, simmer for 3 hours, then strain, & Time. — 3|- hours. Average Cost, Hd. without the bones and trimmings.

168.— GRAVY FOR HASHES, Etc.

Ingredients. — Bones and trimmings of the joint to be hashed, sufficient water to cover the bones, I small onion, i strip ot celery, cairot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and p. ire the gravy when made, and to each i pint allow £ oz. of butter, and a dessertspoonful of flour.

Method. — Break the bones into small pieces and slice t Put them into a saucepan, add the trimmings of th- water, bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, simmer for 2 hours, then strain. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and fry brown. Put in the gravy, stir until it boils, season to taste, and use as required. A little ketchup, Harvey, or other sauce may be added if liked. Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, i^d. per pint, exclusive of bones and trimmings.

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169.— GRAVY FOR ROAST FOWL. (Economical.) Ingredients. — The necks, feet, livers and gizzards of the fowls, sufficient water to cover them, a slice of bacon, or the trimmings of ham or bacon, i very small onion, a bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt Method. — Wash the gizzards, livers and necks, scald and skin the feet, cut the whole into small pieces. Place them all together in a stewpan, add the bacon, cut small, bouquet-garni, onion and seasoning, cover with water, and cook gently for 2 hours. Strain, and season to taste. When the fowls are roasted, strain off the fat, pour the gravy into the tin, mix well with the gravy from the fowls, boil, and serve. Time. — From 2| to 3 hours. Average Cost, i£d.

170.— GRAVY FOR ROAST HARE, Etc.

Ingredients. — i quart of water, \ a Ib. of skirt of beef, \ a Ib. of milt (ox spleen), i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i onion, 2 cloves, salt and Method. — Cut the meat and milt into small pieces, put them into a stewpan, or earthenware stewjar, add the water, onion, cloves, salt and pepper, and cook gently for 3 or 4 hours, then strain. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour and brown it, add the gravy, stir until it boils, season to taste, and serve.

Time. — 4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, about 6d. Quantity, about i pint. 171.— GRAVY WITHOUT MEAT.

Ingredients. — \ an onion, i small carrot, £ oz of dripping, £ a pint of water, i teaspoonful of Marmite, Odin, or any other kind of vegetable extract.

Method. — Cut up the onion and carrot into slices; fry both in the dripping. When nicely browned add the water, and Marmite or Odin extract. Boil up, season with salt and pepper, and cook for 10 minutes. Skim well and strain.

Time. — 25 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. Quantity, £ a pint. I72._ JUGGED GRAVY. (Excellent.) Ingredients. — 3 pints of water, 2 Ib. of shin of beef, £ Ib. of lean ham, i small carrot, i strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, i clove, salt. Method. — Cut the ham and beef into small pieces, and slice the vegetables. Put them into a stewing jar in alternate layers, sprinkle each layer with salt, add the peppercorns, mace, bouquet-garni, and water, cover

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closely, and tie 3 or 4 folds of well-greased paper on the top to keep in the steam. Place the jar in a rather cool oven, and cook gently for 6 hours, then strain, and when cold remove the fat. Re-heat, and serve with any dish that requires good gravy.

Time. — About 6£ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Quantity, about i quart.

173.— VENISON GRAVY.

Ingredients. — i small jar of red-currant jelly, i glass of port. Method. — Heat the above ingredients in a stewpan to near boiling point, and serve separately in a tureen.

Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, lod. Quantity, less than £ a pint. White Sauces (hot and cold) and Salad Dressings.

174.— ALLEMANDE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Allemande.) (For Meat and Fish.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of white stock, i£ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, i tablespoonful of cream, i teaspoonful of lemonjuice, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Melt i oz. of butter in a saucepan, add the flour, stir and cook for a few minutes without browning, then put in the stock and bring to the boil, stirring meanwhile. Let it simmer gently for ^ an hour, take it off the stove, add the yolks of the eggs and cream previously mixed together, a pinch of nutmeg, and season to taste. Continue lo stir and cook slowly without boiling for a few minutes longer, then add the lemon-juice, and the remainder of the butter bit by bit, s irring the ingredients well between each addition. Pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, and use. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Quantity, i pint. 175.— ASPARAGUS SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Asperges.) Ingredients. — 25 green asparagus, £ a pint of white sauce (see page 221), £ of an oz. of butter, | a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, spinach or a little spinach -greening, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut off the green ends of the asparagus, boil them in salt and water for 10 minutes, and drain well. Melt the butter in a sauce-

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pan, fry the asparagus for 8 minutes, add the sauce, and a seasoning of salt and pepper and a little spinach greening if a deep tint is desired. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth; re-heat, add the lemon-juice, and use as required. Time. — From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Quantity, $ a pint.

176.— BEARNAISE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Bearnaise.) Ingredients. — 2 shallots, peeled and chopped finely, a few fresh tarragon leaves, I gill of French wine vinegar, 3 yolks of eggs, \ a teaspoonful of Mignonette pepper, a little salt, \ a gill of Bechamel sauce, 3 ozs. of butter, £ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and tarragon leaves. Method. — Put the vinegar, shallots, and whole tarragon leaves in a stewpan, cover it, and let the liquor reduce to about one-eighth of the original quantity. Remove from the fire, cool a little, add the sauce and re-heat, then stir in the yolks of the eggs, and season with salt and Mignonette pepper. Whisk the whole over the fire, and incorporate the butter by degrees. This sauce must on no account be allowed to boil when once the eggs are added. Pass it through a tammy-cloth. Return to another stewpan, and whisk again over hot water or in a bain-marie. Add the chopped parsley and a few chopped tarragon leaves, and serve as directed.

Time. — 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, lod. Quantity, \ a pint. 177.— BECHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE.

(Fr. — Sauce Bechamel.) Ingredients. — 14- ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter (or of corresponding quantity of white roux), i£ pints of milk (or white stock), I small onion or shallot, i small bouquet-garni (parsley,thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, £ a bay-leaf, i small blade of mace, seasoning. Method. — Put the milk on to boil with the onion or shallot, the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, mace, and bay-leaf. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, and cook a little without browning, stir in the hot milk, etc., whisk over the fire until it boils, and let it simmer from 15 to 20 minutes. Strain and pass through a sieve or tammy-cloth, return to the stewpan, season lightly with a pinch of nutmeg, % a pinch of cayenne, and £ a teaspoonful of salt. The sauce is then ready for use. Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, /d. with milk. Sufficient for i boiled fowl.

MACE (Fr. fleur de muscadc). — The dried aril or fleshy net-like membrane which surrounds the shell of the nutmeg, which when ripe is of a bright scarlet colour. Its general properties are the same as those of the nutmeg, and it possesses an extremely aromatic and fragrant odour, and a hot and acrid taste. Mace is prepared by separating it from the nut when gathered, and curing it by pressure and exposure to the sun. It is largely used as a condiment.

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178.— BECHAMEL, or FRENCH WHITE SAUCE.

(Fr. — Sauce Bechamel.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 1£ ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ pints of equal parts of milk and white stock, i small onion or shallot, i boiiquet-garn (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, % a bay-leaf, i small blade of mace, seasoning.

Method. — Put the milk and stock in the saucepan with the vegetables and seasoning, and let it come to the boil. Melt the butter in another saucepan, add the flour and cook it, without browning, pour in the hot milk, whisk until it boils, and simmer for about 20 minutes. Strain the sauce through a tammy-cloth, or fine strainer, warm up, and use as Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, Sd. per pint. Sufficient for 2 boiled fowls.

179.— BECHAMEL SAUCE WITHOUT STOCK. (Fr.Sauce Bechamel maigre.) Ingredients. — i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i pint of milk, i small onion stuck with a clove, a few parsley leaves tied in a bunch, £ a bayleaf, i small blade of mace, seasoning.

Mode. — Boil the milk with the vegetable and seasoning for -J- an hour. Molt the butter in another saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook for a fe-w minutes without allowing it to brown, add the milk gradually, stir until it boils, simmer for about jo niinutrs. Sir.iin the - required, adding seasoning to taTime. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. per pint. Sufficient for one boiled fowl, about one pint.

180.— BREAD SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Pain.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of milk, i table-spoonful of cream, 2 ozs. of freshly made breadcrumbs. | of an oz. of butter, i very small j ou ion, i clove, salt and pepper.

Method. — Put the milk and onion, with the clove sturk in it, into a small saneepan and bring to the l>oil. Add the l>read< niml.s, and simmer gently for 20 minutes, then remove the onion, add salt and pepper to taste, stir in the butter and cream, and serve. Time. — 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, about ^d. Quantity, ± a pint..—The cream may be omitted, and, if preferred, a little more butterriddel. Flavouring is simply a matter of taste (when cloves are not liked, mace or nutine" n av be substituted).

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1 8 1. —BLONDE SAUCE. (Fr. Sauce Blonde.) Ingredients. — |- of a pint of white stock (either meat or fish), | a pint of milk, i tablespoonful of cream, 2 yolks of eggs, i teaspoonful of lemon- juice, i oz. of butter, f- of an oz. of flour, salt and pepper. Method. — Melt the butter, add the flour and cook for a few minutes without browning. Add the stock and milk, stir until boiling, then simmer gently for 15 minutes, stirring frequently. Whisk the yolks of the eggs and cream well together, and add them to the sauce when not quite boiling. Season to taste, add the lemon- juice, and whisk the mixture by the side of the fire until the sauce thickens slightly, but do not allow it to boil. Strain and use with fish or meat, according to the stock forming the base.

Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 6d., in addition to the 182.— CAPER SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Capres.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of melted butter (see page 228) i tablespoonful of capers, either cut in two or coarsely chopped, i dessertspoonful of vinegar from the capers, salt and pepper.

Method. — Make the melted butter as directed, add to it the capers, vinegar and seasoning, and use.

Time. — Altogether, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. Quantity % pint.

Note. — If for serving with boiled mutton, make the melted butter sauce with the liquor in which the meat was boiled, instead of plain water. CAPERS (Fr.: Cdpres). — The name given to the unopened flower-buds of a low trailing shrub which grows wild among the crevices of the rocks of Greece and in Northern Africa, and is cultivated in the South of Europe. It was introduced into Britain as early as 1586. After being pickled in vinegar and salt, they are imported from Sicily, Italy, and the south of France, and are used as a table-sauce chiefly with boiled mutton. The flower-buds of the nasturtium are frequently pickled and used as a substitute for the genuine article.

183.— CAPER SAUCE, SUBSTITUTE FOR.

Ingredients. — \ a pint of melted butter (see Sauces) 2 tablespoonfuls of cut parsley, i tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper. Method. — Choose dark-coloured parsley, or boil it slowly in order to destroy some of its colour, and then cut it into small pieces, but do not chop it. Have the melted butter ready made, according to directions given, add to it the parsley, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Serve as a substitute for caper sauce.

Average Cost.— 2d. or 3d.

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184.— CELERY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Celeri.) (For Boiled Turkey and Fowls.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of whit; stock, \ a pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, \\ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, 2 sticks of celery (white part only), a blade of mace, salt and pepper. Method. — Wash the celery, cut it into short pieces, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, and strain. Put the stock and mace into a stewpan, add the celery, simmer until tender (45 to 60 minutes), then rub through a fine hair sieve. Melt the butter in the stewpan, stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the milk, and celery puree, and stir until it boils. Add seasoning to taste, stir in the cream and use as required.

Average Cost. — is. per pint. Sufficient for a boiled turkey or two fowls.

185.— CELERY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Celeri.) (A more simple Recipe.) Ingredients. — f- of a pint of melted butter (see page 228) i head of celery (the white part only), salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the celery and chop it coarsely. Put it into a stewpan with barely sufficient water to cover it, and simmer for £ an hour. Stir occasionally as the water evaporates and the celery becomes rather dry. Add the melted butter, stir until it boils, season to taste, and Time. — i hour. Average Cost, 5d. Sufficient for a boiled turkey. 186.— CHAUD-FROID SAUCE (WHITE).

(Fr. — Sauce Chaud-Froid Blanche.) (Cold Sauce for masking Chicken, Cutlets, etc.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of Bechamel sauce, £ of a pint of aspic jelly, £ of a pint of cream, 5 or 6 sheets of French gelatine, i teaspoonful of chilli vinegar or lemon-juice.

Method. — Dissolve the gelatine in the aspic jelly, and mix with the hot sauce. Stir over the fire until it boils, then add the vinegar or lemon-juice, simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, and strain or pass through a tammy-cloth. When cool add the cream, and use as required, when just on the point of setting.

Time. — 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. for this quantity.

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Note. — Brown Chaud-Froid sauce may also be made by substituting equal quantities of good brown sauce and tomato sauce for the Bechamel. Green Chaud-Froid is composed of Bechamel and a few drops of spinach greening, and pink Chaud-Froid is made by adding a few drops of carmine to the Bechamel sauce. The aspic jelly and gelatine are added to give brightness and stiffness to the sauces.

187.— CHESTNUT SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux de Matrons.) (For Chicken or Turkey.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of white stock, £ of a pint of cream or milk, £ a Ib. of chestnuts, a thinly cut strip of lemon-rind, cayenne, salt. Method. — Cut the tops off the chestnuts and roast or bake them for about 20 minutes. Remove the outer and inner skins, put them into a saucepan with the stock and lemon-rind, and let them simmer until tender (about % hour). Rub through a fine sieve, return to the saucepan, add seasoning to taste, and re-heat. Stir in the cream, and use as required.^ If milk is used, mix with it a teaspoonful of cornflour or ordinary flour, stir it into the puree when boiling, and simmer for 5 minutes to cook the flour. Season with salt and a tiny pinch of Time. — \\ to 2 hours. Average Cost, lod. per pint with cream. Sufficient for a boiled turkey.

Note. — Brown chestnut sauce may be made by substituting •£ a pint of brown sauce and a £ of a pint of brown stock for the white stock and cream. 188.— CREAM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a la Creme.) (For Sweetbreads, Chickens, Soles.) Ingredients. — 3 tablcspoonfuls of Bechamel sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, i oz. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs, a few drops of lemon-juice, salt Method. — Put all the ingredients except the lemon juice into a small saucepan, which must be placed either in a bain-marie or in a larger shallow pan, half full of boiling water. Stir the mixture until it acquires the consistency of thick cream, then pass through a tammycloth, reheat, add the lemon juice, and use.

Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to /d. 189.— CUCUMBER SAUCE (Hot). (Fr.— Sauce aux Concombres [Chaude].) Ingredients. — \ a pint of Bechamel sauce (see page 220) i cucumber, i oz. of butter, a little spinach greening, salt and pepper. Method. — Peel the cucumber, cut into thick slices, and remove the seeds. Melf. the butter in a stewpan, put in the cucumber, cover

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closely, and let it steam in the butter until tender (about 30 minutes \ stirring occasionally. When sufficiently cooked, add the sauce, lemon-juice, seasoning, and spinach greening. Cook two or three minutes, pass through a sieve and serve.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 8d. to lod. for this quantity. 190.— DUTCH SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Hollandaise.) Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, i shallot, peeled and chopped, i bay-leaf, 4 white peppercorns crushed, i gill of white sauce, the yolks of 2 eggs, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 ozs. of butter, salt. Method. — Put the vinegar (French wine vinegar in preference to malt vinegar) with the shallot, bay-leaf and peppercorns in a stcwpan, and reduce to \ its original quantity; add the white sauce, let it boil, remove the bay-leaf, and stir in the yolks of eggs. When it begins to thicken remove the preparation from the fire and strain into another stcwpan. Re-heat (taking great care that the sauce does not curdle \ and whisk in the butter by degrees. Add the lemon-juice and enough salt to taste, and serve with boiled fish, artichokes, asparagus, etc. Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to;d.

I9i._ DUTCH SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Hollandaise.) Ingredients. — The yolks of 3 eggs, 2 ozs. butter, I gill Bechamel sauce, | of a gill of stock, the juice of -\ a lemon, salt and pepper. Method. — Make the sauce hot, remove the saucepan to the side of the stove, and whisk in the yolks of the eggs, stock and lemon-juice. Cook over a slow fire, then add the butter in small pieces oft" the fire. Season, strain, and it is ready to serve. The sauce must be carefully cooked, and on no account placed on the fire after the butter is added, or it will oil.

Time. 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d.

THE LEMON (Fr.: Citron). — This well-known fruit of the lemon tree. Citrus 7,»mon?/m, is a native of tin; tropi' al parts of A>ia, and was probably introduced into south-western Fnr«pe by tin It is allied to the citron and the orange, but is more hardy than the latter. The lemon is ! into this country chieflv from Spain, Portugal, Si- ily, and the A/ores. From the lemon lime-juice is obtained, whirh is used in the manufacture of lemon i i- al-><« laro'lv employed in calico printing to discharge colours. The anti-v-orbutir pr«p limc-jiiii r are of high value, and lime-juice is extensively used in the Navy and the Merchant 5 Its constituents are sugar, virrtablr. albuminous and mineral matter, including p.ta->li acid and the oil of /cm-m are obtained by pressure and distillation from the fr«->h pod; th.- latt.-r i- a v<.i.itilc ml «f a yrllow or greenish colour, much used in perfumery, medi- in.il prcp.ir.ition>, and f-r various domestic purposes. Lemon-peel is prepared by drying the rind, and preserving it wit:, 192.— FRENCH ONION SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Soubise.) Ingredients. — 2 Spanish onions, i gill of white stock, £ a pint of Bechamel sauce, white pepper, salt, a pinch of white sugar

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Method. — Peel the onions, parboil them in salted water, strain and chop very finely. Return to the saucepan, stir over the fire until all moisture is absorbed, then add the stock and cook until tender.

Now add the sauce, reduce until the desired consistency is acquired, add the seasoning, and serve.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d.

PEPPER (Fr. Poivre). — This well-known aromatic spice is a native of the East Indies, and from thence has been introduced into the West Indian Islands, and other tropical parts. The most esteemed varieties are those of Sumatra, J ava, and Malacca. The pepper plant belongs to the natural order Piperaceae, its most important species being Piper nigrum, the black pepper of commerce. It is a climbing shrub, with alternate, heart-shape leathery leaves, and little globular berries, about the size of a currant, at first green, but when ripe of a bright-red colour. The peppercorns are gathered when red and exposed to the sun, when they change to a black hue. White Pepper is obtained from the finest of the berries, which are plucked when fully ripe, steeped in lime-water, and subjected to a process of rubbing, which removes the outer coat. It is less acrid than the ordinary black pepper, to which it is considered to be superior, for only the finest berries will bear such special preparation.

193.— GERMAN SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Allemande.) Ingredients. — i pint of good white stock, i tablespoonful of cream, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, a teaspoonful of lemonjuice, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir the mixture for a few minutes without allowing it to brown, then put in the stock and stir until it boils. Let it simmer gently for \ an hour, skim off any butter that may be floating on the top, and season to taste. Beat the yolks of the eggs and cream together, add them to the sauce, and cook gently for a few minutes until the sauce thickens, but it must not boil, or the eggs may curdle. Add the lemon, strain, or pass through a tammy-cloth, and use as required.

Time. — 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, is.

THE NUTMEG (Fr.: Muscade) is a native of the tropics, and is largely cultivated in the Molucca Islands, especially in the Banda group. The Dutch, when supreme in the East, sought to obtain a monopoly of this spice, by confining the growth of the nutmeg to the Island of Great Banda. It is now cultivated in Java. Sumatra, Penang, Singapore, Southern India, Madagascar, Brazil, and the West Indies. The nutmeg tree, which somewhat resembles the pear-tree in the beauty of its form, foliage, and blossom, grows to the height of about 25 feet, and begins to bear fruit in its ninth year, yielding about 8 Ib. The nut is oval in shape, very hard, and of a dark-brown colour. Previous to exportation, the fruit is smoke-dried until the nut rattles in the shell, when it is extracted. There are various species of nutmegs, the chief being Myristica fragrans, which yields the chief supply, and is the most aromatic and delicate in its flavour; and Myristica faiua, with a longer kernel of a pale colour, but less aromatic. The nutmeg is largely used as a condiment, and in medicine as a stimulant and carminative. In large quantities it acts as a narcotic. From the nutmeg a fixed and a volatile oil are obtained.

194.— GREEN MOUSSELINE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Mousseline Verte.) Ingredients. — \ pint of stiff Mayonnaise sauce, \ a teaspoonful made English mustard, £ gill Bechamel sauce, \ gill of cream, a few leaves of tarragon and chervil i teaspoonful of spinach greening, a pinch of cayenne or paprika pepper, a pinch of salt, £ a lemon.

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Method. — Mix the Mayonnaise sauce, mustard, and cream in a basin; chop the tarragon and chervil leaves and put them with the greening into the Bechamel sauce, boil for a few minutes, and pass through a fine tammy-cloth. Let the preparation cool, and incorporate it with the cold sauce. Season to taste with a little salt and pepper, and finish by working in the juice of £ a lemon. Serve cold.

Time, i hour. — Average Cost, lod. to is. for this quantity. CAYENNE (Fr.: Poivre de Cayenne). — The name given to the powder prepared from several varieties of the capsicum, natives of the East and West Indies, and other hot climates. The pods of the capsicum, which are of a handsome scarlet, yellow, or greenish colour, are extremely pungent to the t. i-.tr, and in the green state are used as a pickle. When ripe, the pods are ground into Cuv.'iiue pepper, -t acrid and stimulating of the spices. The fruit of various species of the capsicin: under the name of Chilies, the Mexican name for the capsicum; the capsicums preserved i: \ add which is called " Chili Vinegar." Capsicum is used in medicine chiefly in the form of a tincture. nulantor digestive, and as a remedy for relaxed throats. Cayenne judiciously used is a valuable condiment for improving the flavour of dishes.

195.— HORSERADISH SAUCE OR CREAM. (Hot.) (Fr.— Creme de Raifort [Chaude].) Ingredients. — i oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, i pint of cream, 3 tablespoonfuls of finely-grated horseradish, i teaspoonful of vinegar, i pinch of salt, 4 a teaspoonful of sugar.

Method. — Blend the flour with the butter, boil the cream, and add it to the butter and flour; stir over the fire, and boil for 5 mi taking great care not to let it curdle. Pass through a tammy-cloth or napkin. Add the horseradish, salt and vimr.ar, and mix va 11. hot with boiled fish, or roast meat, etc.

Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s.

THF HORSERADISH (Fr.: /. ruciform plant, common to most of the template countries e. It grows abundantly in Britain, to win h. h<>we\.

.•••!. It i- a well-known condiment, with a pungent taste and odour d as a stomachic and diuretic medicine, and externally as a blister. The root of aconite e to that of the horseradish; care should, therefore, be taken to prevent accidents arising from mistaking the two roots. In the case of aconite, the root externally is of a darkbrown colour, tapering in -,t of the horseradish has ! taste are at first pungent and acrid, and its external. a dirty white.. is so great that even when for the tone, it r.ipidly spoils by exposure to the air. For the same reason the root should: ved by drying, but be kept root-: ind.

196.— HORSERADISH SAUCE (Hot). (Fr.— Sauce Raifort [Chaude].) (A more Economical Ingredients.— 2 tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish, £ a pint of rnel sauce, £ a teaspoonful of castor sugar, % a teaspoonful of \ir, cayenne, and salt.

Method. — Boil up the sauce, moisten the horseradish with the vinegar, add it to the sauce with the other in Make the sauce thor\ hot, but do not boil, after the \ added, or it will curdle.

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197.— HORSERADISH SAUCE (Cold). (Fr.— Sauce Raifort [Froide].) Ingredients. — \ gill of wine vinegar, 2 hard-boiled eggs, i oz. of grated horseradish, \ a teaspoonful of salt, i teaspoonful of castor sugar, i tablespoonful of cream.

Method. — Remove the yolks from the whites of the hard-boiled eggs, put them in a basin, work with a wooden spoon until quite smooth, then add the vinegar gradually, and stir the mixture until it becomes creamy. Add the grated horseradish, sugar, salt, and lastly the cream, stir a little longer, and serve in a sauceboat, or as directed. Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 7d. 198.— HORSERADISH SAUCE (Cold). (Fr.— Sauce Raifort [Froide].) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — i^ ozs. of grated horseradish, i gill of thick cream, i tablespoonful of white wine vinegar, i teaspoonful of castor sugar, a little powdered mustard, pepper and salt.

Method. — Put the horseradish in a basin, add the sugar, mustard, salt and pepper: moisten with vinegar, stir in the cream gradually. Serve cold, Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. I99.--LOBSTER SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Homard.) Ingredients. — £ pint of Bechamel sauce, a small hen lobster, i oz. of butter, seasoning.

Method. — Remove the coral from the lobster, wash it and pound it with the butter, and rub all through a hair sieve. Remove the meat from the tail and claws of the lobster, and cut it into small neat pieces. Warm the Bechamel sauce, add the coral-butter, mix well, then add the pieces of lobster, warm thoroughly, season, and serve. Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, 4d. without the lobster. 200.— MAITRE D' HOTEL SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Maitre Ingredients. — | a pint of Bechamel sauce, 3 ozs. of butter, the juice of \ a lemon, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, seasoning. Method. — Put the Bechamel in a saucepan with a little water, stir until it boils, reduce well, then add the butter a little at a time, and

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stir well. Strain the sauce into another saucepan, add the parsley, lemon- juice, and seasoning, reheat and serve.

Time. — 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. for this quantity. THE MAITRE D'HOTEL (Fr.). — The house-steward is synonymous with the maitre d'hotel of Franco, and was called among the ancient Romans procurator, or major domo. In large households in KOIIH-, the slaves, when they had procured the various articles required for the repasts of the day, returned to the spacious kitchen, with their loads of meat, game, fish, vegetables and fruit. Each one pl.uvd his basket at the feet of the major domo, who examined its contents, and registered them on his t.iMrts. Provisions which needed no special preparation were then stored in a pantry near to the diningroom, the other comestibles being assigned to the more immediate care of the cook. 2oi.— MAYONNAISE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Mayonnaise.) Ingredients. — 2 yolks of eggs, i tcaspoonful of French mustard, £ a teaspoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, i tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, about i pint of best salad oil, i tablespoonful of cream. Method. — Put the yolks into a basin, add the mustard, salt and pepper, stir quickly with a wooden spoon. Add the oil, first drop by drop and afterwards more quickly, and at intervals a few drops of the vinegar By stirring well, the mixture should become the consistency of very thick cream. Lastly, add the cream, stirring all the while. A little cold water may be added if the sauce is found to be too thick. In hot weather, the basin in which the Mayonnaise is made should be placed in a vessel of crushed ice.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. 202.— MELTED BUTTER. (Fr.— Sauce au Beurre.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of water, i oz. of butter, J of an oz. of Hour, Method.— Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the Hour and cook tor j or 3 minutes. The water now to be added must not be quite boiling, but it may be hot, and as the sauce has to be constantly stirred until it boils to incorporate the substances contained in it, considerable time is saved by adding warm or hot water, instead of cold. Bring to the boil, and simmer for a few minute a, and use as required. 203.— MELTED BUTTER. (Fr.— Sauce au Beurre.) (An Old-fashioned Method.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of hot water, £ oz. of fresh butter, i drssertspoonful of flour, salt and pep; Method.— Mix the flour smoothly with a little cold water in a basin, add the hot water gradually, stirring all the time. Put it into a I pan, bring to the boil, simmer for ID minutes, then add the salt and pepper, stir in the butter, and serve.

Time. About i; minuter. Average Cost, ild.

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204.— NORMANDY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Normande.) Ingredients. — f pint white stock, J pint fish stock (No. 5), 2 oz. butter, I oz. flour, 2 yolks of eggs, lemon juice.

Method. — Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan, add i oz. of flour, stir sufficiently long to cook the flour, moisten with the stock, and allow it to boil for 10 minutes. Skim well, and finish with a liaison or binding of 2 yolks of eggs. Stir in bit by bit i oz. of butter^ and a few drops of lemon-juice. Pass through a fine strainer or tammy-cloth, and use as directed.

Time. — 10 minutes. Probable Cost, is. Sufficient for I large dish. 205.— ONION SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux Oigrfons.) Ingredients. — | a pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, i oz. of butter, £• oz. of flour, 2 onions (about % a lb.), salt and pepper. Method. — Peel the onions, put them into cold water, bring to the boil, and strain. Return to the saucepan with \ a teaspoonful of salt and sufficient boiling water to cover them, and boil until tender (about i hour). When the onions are sufficiently cooked they must be well drained and chopped coarsely. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the milk and stir until it boils. Add the onion to it, season to taste, simmer for a few minutes, then stir in the cream, and serve.

Time. — 1-£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, 4d. to $d.

206.— PARSLEY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce de Persil.) (For Boiled Fowl, Veal, Calf's Head, etc.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of the liquor in which the meat has been cooked, % of a pint of milk, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i tablespoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper.

Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the liquor and milk, and stir until it boils. Simmer for a few minutes, season to taste, add the parsley, and use as required. If the parsley is allowed to boil in the sauce it will lose some of its green colour.

PARSLEY (Fr.: Persil). — The common parsley is a well-known garden vegetable, and has long been cultivated for seasoning and garnishing dishes, and for flavouring soups. The leaf-stalks of one variety of parsley, the celery-leaved, are blanched and eaten like celery. Parsley was known to the ancient Greeks, reference being made to it in the Iliad, and among the Romans it was used as a symbol of mourning, and placed on the tables at funeral feasts. The Carthagenians found it in Sardinia, and introduced the herb to the inhabitants of Marseilles. There are various quaint superstition! connected with parsley, some of which survive to the present day in England and Scotland.

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WHITE SAUCES AND SALAD DRESSINGS _>.u 207.— POULETTE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Poulette.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of Bechamel sauce, i raw yolk of egg, i tablespoonful of cream, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method. — Mix the yolk of the egg and the cream together. Have the sauce nearly boiling in a saucepan, pour in the egg and cream, and stir for a few minutes, but the preparation must not boil, or the egg may curdle. Add the parsley and lemon-juice, season to taste, and 208.— SALAD DRESSING (French). (Fr.— Sauce Remoulade.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of salad oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, i teaspoonful of made mustard, i yolk of egg, a few leaves of tarragon parsley and chives, a pinch of castor sugar, salt and pepper. Method. — Blanch the herbs, drain, and chop finely. Put the yolk of egg into a basin, add the seasoning, work in the oil and vinegar, stirring the ingredients vigorously with a wooden spoon. Then add the herbs, mustard, and sugar.

Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to pd. for this quantity. TARRAGON (Fr.:E$tragon). — The leaves of this aromatic plant, known to botanists as Artemisia dracunculus, are much used in France as a flavouring ingredient for salads. Frotn it is made which the French employ to mix thfir mu^t.ird. It is also used as a pickle, and as a flavour for tj^h-sauces. From one species of the genus Artemisia, which grows in Swit/.-rl.uul. th«- 1 itt.-r aromatic cordial, absinthe, is prepared. The common wormwood. Artemisia absinikum, was known to the Greeks, who valued it as a medicinal plant. 209.— SALAD DRESSING (made without oil.) Ingredients. — 2 hard-boiled eggs, 4 i.il.lrspoonfuls of cream, i tablespoonful of vinegar, i teaspoonful of mixed mustard, £ of a teaspoonful each of pepper, salt, and castor sugar.

Method. — Pound the yolks of the eggs in a mortar, then put them basin, and add the mustard, salt, pepper and sugar, add the cream gradually, and stir vigorously until it beconv thick. Add the vinegar drop by drop just at the last.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to 210. -SORREL SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a 1'Oseille.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of White Sauce (see page 233) a good handful of sorrel, salt and pepper.

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Method. — Wash and pick the sorrel, put it into a saucepan without any water, and cook until tender. Chop finely, and rub through a hair sieve. Have the sauce boiling in a saucepan, add to it the puree, stir and cook for 3 or 4 minutes, season to taste, and serve. 2ii.— SOUBISE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Soubise.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of Bechamel Sauce, or other good white sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 Spanish onions, sugar, salt and pepper. Method. — Peel and parboil the onions in salted water, then drain well and chop them finely. Put the prepared onions and stock into a stewpan, cover closely, cook slowly until reduced to a pulp, and add the sauce. Simmer gently until reduced to the right consistency, then add a pinch of sugar, season to taste, and use as required. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d. to /d.

212. — SUPREME SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Supreme.) Ingredients. — i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i% pints of chicken stock, i small onion, i clove, £ a bay-leaf, i£ ozs. of fresh butter, i tablespoonful cream, i yolk of egg, the juice of \ a lemon. Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, cook well over fire, but do not let it brown, then add stock, onion, clove, and bay-leaf. Stir until boiling, simmer for 15 minutes, and skim well. Now work in the fresh butter, cream, and yolk of egg, cook for 3 minutes, but do not let the sauce boil. Add the lemon-juice, pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth, warm, and serve.

Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. exclusive of the stock. 213.— TARTARS SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Tartare.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of Mayonnaise sauce, i tablespoonful of chopped gherkin or capers, \ a teaspoonful of very finely-chopped shallot (this may be omitted).

Method. — Stir the gherkin and onion lightly into the mayonnaise, and use as required.

Time. — 25 minutes altogether. Average Cost, $d. to;d. 214.— TOURNEE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Tournee.) Ingredients. — i pint of white stock, 2 ozs. of butter, i| ozs. of flour, 6 spring onions, 6 small mushrooms coarsely-chopped, a bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper. Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, stir and cook

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for a few minutes without browning, and put in the stock. Add the white part of the onions, the bouquet-garni, mushrooms, and a little salt and pepper, simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain and use as Tim3. — About 4- an hour. Average Cost, lod. to is. 215.— VALOIS SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Valois.) Ingredients. — i pint of strong chicken stock, 4 yolks of eggs, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 dessertspoonfuls of white vinegar, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 2 shallots finely-chopped, salt and pepper. Method. — Boil the stock gently until reduced to a quarter of the original quantity. Put the vinegar and shallots into another saucepan, simmer gently until considerably reduced, and add the prepared stock. Beat the yolks of the eggs well, stir them into the contents of the saucepan when just below boiling point, whisk until the preparation thickens, and season to taste. Add the butter bit by bit, whisking between each addition, and just before serving stir in the par Time. — Altogether, about i£ hours. Averaje Cost, /d., exclusive of the stock.

216.— VELOUTE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Veloute.) Ingredients. — 1\ ozs. butter, i oz. of sifted flour, i pint of good white sto.k, i a bay leaf, 8 peppercorns.

Method. — Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, cook a little without browning, moisten with the stock, add the Ki and peppercorns, stir and simmer slowly for \ an hour, take olf the scum, press through a tammy-cloth or napkin, return to the stewpan, and finish with the remainder of the butter, or a little thick cream. Use as required.

Time. — 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, lod. to is. -The st«»ck from which \Yl.mU uld be made is prepared from \val bone-, chicken bones, and trimming, a flavouring of carrot, onion, bonquet-i^irni. the needful amount ol sea>omn^. and an appropriate -.plant it y ot water, i.e. I quart ot water to li Ibs. ot meat and vegetables. 217.— VELOUTE OR VELVET SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce VeloutS.) (Another method.) Ingredients. — i oz. of flour, i£ ozs. of butter, i pint of veal stock, ill of mushroom liquor, \ a gill of cream, i bouquet-garni (parsley, thyni- peppercorns, silt, nulnu-g, ami lemon-juice,

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Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, cook over the fire for a few minutes, but do not let the flour brown. Add stock, mushroom liquor, bouquet-garni, and crushed peppercorns. Boil slowly for 20 minutes, skim well. Pass through a tammy-cloth, warm up, and just before serving add cream, seasoning, and lemon-juice. Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, lod. to is. 2 1 8.— VINAIGRETTE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Vinaigrette.) (For Asparagus, Calf's Heac Brains, etc.) Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of salad oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of tarn vinegar, % a teaspoonful each of finely-chopped gherkin, shallot ai parsley, salt and pepper.

Method. — Mix all well together, and use as required. Time. — About 5 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. or 5d. 219.— WHITE ITALIAN SAUCE.

Ingredients. — J of a pint of good white stock, f- of a pint of Bechai sauce, i tablespoonful of cream, i oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped fresh button mushrooms, i dessertspoonful of finelychopped parsley, i shallot finely chopped, salt and pepper. Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the mushrooms and shallot, and fry without browning for about 10 minutes. Add the stock, cover closely, and simmer until reduced to about \ the original quantity. Put in the Bechamel sauce and boil up, then add seasoning to taste, the chopped parsley and cream, and use as required. Time. — 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, lod. to is. 220.— WHITE MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Champignons [Blanche].) Ingredients. — 1£ gills of Bechamel sauce, i-| gills of veal stock, 8 or 10 preserved mushrooms, £ a gill of the liquor, \ a gill of Chablis, i dessertspoonful of lemon- juice, i tablespoonful of cream. Method. — Boil the stock and Bechamel together until reduced to half the original quantity. Add the mushrooms sliced, the liquor, lemon- juice, and wine. Boil again, skim, season, and add the cream. Time. — 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. 221.— WHITE SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES, VEAL, RABBIT, AND POULTRY. (Fr.— Sauce Blanche.) Ingredients. — i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, £ a pint of milk, \ a gill of white stock, \ a bay-leaf, salt and white pepper.

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Method. — Melt the butter in a small saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook for a few minutes without allowing the flour to brown. Dilute with the milk, stir till it boils, then add the stock and bay-leaf, and let simmer for at least 10 minutes. Remove the bay-leaf, season to taste, and strain.

222.— WHITE SAUCE WITHOUT STOCK.

(Fr.— Sauce Blanche.) (For Vegetables Meat, Poultry, etc.) Ingredients. — i pint of milk, i tablespoonful of cream (this may be omitted), 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i small carrot, i small onion, i strip of celery, i bay-leaf, salt, 10 peppercorns. Method. — Cut the carrot and celery into rather large pieces, put them with the milk, onion, and bay-leaf into a saucepan, and simmer gently for about £ an hour. If the milk reduces in simmering, add more to make up the original quantity. Melt the butter in another saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook for 7 or 8 minutes without browning. Let this roux cool slightly, then add to it the milk and vegetables, and whisk briskly until it boils. Simmer for 10 minutes, strain through a tammy-cloth, or rub through a fine hair sieve, re-heat, season to add the cream, and use.

—For white sauces made with stock, see Bechamel. Veloute. page 232, and Allemande, page 219.

223.— WHITE SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES, MEAT, POULTRY, OR FISH. (Economical.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, £ a pint of either water, fish or liquor in which moat or poultry has been boiled, i£ ozs. butter,. of flour, mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour and cook minutes, add the milk and stock, stir until it boils, then simmer gnu ly for 10 minutes. Season to taste, add a pinch of nutmeg, and.is required.

-Onion cooked and chopped n ml parsley chopped should be added ':<lc*. a few minutes;-ut the sauce n,

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224.— ASPIC CREAM.

Ingredients. — 1£ gills of aspic jelly, i gill of double cream, a leaspoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of white pepper, and a pinch of castor Method. — Put the cream into a basin, stir it with a whisk, and gradually add the aspic, which must be liquid, and add the lemon-juice and seasoning, pass through a tammy or fine strainer, and use to mark chickens, etc.

Brown Sauces.

225.— BACON SAUCE. (Fr— Sauce au Lard Fume.) Ingredients. — |- a Ib. of ham or bacon cut into dice, i small onion finely-chopped, i dessertspoonful of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar. \ a pint of water, salt and pepper.

Method. — Fry the bacon slightly, add the onion, sprinkle in the flour, and fry slowly until lightly browned. Season to taste, add the vinegar and water, stir until boiling, then pour over the previously cooked potatoes, and serve as an accompaniment with roast chicken or veal. 226.— BIGARADE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Bigarade.) (For Roast Duck or Goose.) Ingredients. — \ a Seville orange, | a pint of brown sauce, \ a pint of good stock, i glass of port wine, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and Method. — Strain the juice of the orange. Cut the rind into very fine strips, cover with cold water and bring to the boil. Simmer gently from 10 to 15 minutes, then strain and drain well. Mix the brown sauce, stock and orange- juice together, and boil until reduced to half the original quantity. Strain, return to the saucepan, add the prepared orange-rind, lemon-juice and port wine, season to taste, boil Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is.

227. — BORDELAISE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Bordelaise.) Ingredients. — £- of a pint of Espagnole sauce, i glass of claret, 2 finelychopped shallots, -J- an oz. of glaze, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, tarragon and chervil, a pinch of sugar, seasoning. Method. — Put the wine and shallots into a saucepan, and reduce to half the quantity. Add the sauce and cook slowly for 20 minutes. Skim, and add the rest of the ingredients, boil up, and serve. Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d.

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228.— BRAIN SAUCE FOR SHEEPS' HEAD.

Ingredients. — 2 shecps' brains, J of a pint of liquor in which the heads were cooked, i| ozs. of butter, i|- ozs. of flour, i small onion chopped, i teaspoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash and soak the brains in salt and water. Tie them in muslin, and cook them until firm in the pot containing the sheeps' heads. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, cook it slowly until lightly browned, then put in the onion, and continue to cook slowly until the whole acquires a nut-brown colour. Add the pot-liquor, vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then stir in the brains previously coarsely-chopped, and serve poured over the prepared heads, or separately. Time. — Altogether, i hour. Average Cost, 2d., in addition to the brains.

229.— BRETONNE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Bretonne.) Ingredients. — I of a pint of brown sauce, i tablcspoonful of haricot puree, i onion sliced, £ an oz. of butter, salt and pepper. Method. — Melt the butter, fry the onion until well-browned, add the haricot puree and brown sauce, and bring to the boil. Season to taste, simmer for 5 minutes, then pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, and use as required.

230.— BROWN CAPER SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Capres Brunes.) (For Steak, Kidneys, Fish.; Ingredients. — ^ a pint of Espagnota same, or i>n> \\-n saner, i •poonful of vinegar, i tea&poonful nuhovy, i taHrspom ful of capers cut in two, i small onion very finely-chopped, < ayennr, the juice of half a lemon.

Method. — Put the sauce, vinegar, essence of anchovy and onion into asauccpan, boil, simmej: for 10 minutes, and strain. Krturn to the saucepan, and when quite hot add the cayenne, lemon-juice and c Time. — About 2o"minutes. Average Cost, i id.

231.— BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Champignons [Brune].) Ingredients. -S pri-scrvcd mushrooms, \ a gill of the liquor, £ a gill of sherry, £ a gill of thin Kspa-nolr sauce.

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Method. — Chop the mushrooms finely, put them in a stewpan with the liquor and the sherry, cover the pan, and boil well. Add the Espagnole, boil up again, then season and serve.

THE MUSHROOM (Fr. champignon). — This highly-esteemed fungus is found in all parts of the world, and is remarkable for the rapidity of its growth. The species, and its several varieties, most usually cultivated for table use is Agaricus campestris. For culinary purposes the mushroom is of much importance, and from it ketchup is prepared, which forms the basis of numerous sauces. There are some 500 species of British mushrooms, and of these many are more or less poisonous, as the Fly mushroom (Agaricus muscarius), which has a warted orange or scarlet cap, and possesses highly narcotic properties, causing delirium and death if eaten. Great care should be taken in gathering mushrooms to ensure that they are of the edible kind.

232.— BROWN ONION SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Bretonne.) Ingredients. — 2 Spanish onions, £ a pint of Espagnole sauce, £ a gill of haricot beans, seasoning, 2 ozs. of butter.

Method. — Soak the haricot beans for 12 hours, then put them on to boil in salt and water, and when tender rub them through a hair sieve. Skin and chop the onions, fry them in the butter, then add the sauce, and boil slowly until the onions are tender. Pass the mixture through a hair sieve, add the haricot puree, warm thoroughly, season, and Time. From 2 to 2.\ hours. Average Cost, lod.

233.— BROWN SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Brune.) Ingredients. — i pint of brown stock, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i small carrot, i small onion, 6 fresh button mushrooms (when in season), i tomato, salt and pepper.

Method. — Slice the mushrooms, carrot, and onion, and fry them until brown in the butter. Sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook for a few minutes, then add the sliced tomato and stock, and stir until it boils. Simmer for 10 minutes, season to taste, strain or pass through a tammy-cloth, re-heat, and serve. Preserved mushrooms may be used, but they do not impart the same flavour to the sauce. A tablespoonful of GOOD mushroom ketchup is an improvement.

Time. — 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, about 6d., exclusive of the 234.— BROWN SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Brune.) (Inexpensive.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of stock or water, i oz. of butter or sweet dripping, i oz. of flour, i small carrot, i small onion, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the carrot and onion into small pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan, put in the flour and vegetables, and fry until brown, An occasional stir is necessary to prevent the ingredients burning,

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but if they are constantly stirred they brown less quickly. Add the water or stock, stir until it boils, simmer for 10 minutes, then season to taste, and use. A few drops of browning (see page 214) may be added when the sauce is too light in colour.

Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. without the stock. 235.— CALF'S HEAD, SAUCE FOR.

Ingredients. — i pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i dessertspoonful of finelychopped parsley, the juice and finely-grated rind of % a lemon, i onion sliced, salt and pepper.

Method. — Fry the onion in the butter until well-browned, sprinkle in the flour and brown it also, then add the stock. Simmer gently for £ an hour to reduce, then strain. Return to the saucepan, and add the parsley, lemon-rind, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.

236.— CARROT SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Carotte.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of stock, No. 7, i large carrot grated, i oz. of butter, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method.— Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the carrot, and let it cook gently for 10 minutes. Add the stock, season to taste, and simmer gently for £ an hour. Return to the saucepan, strain, add the parsley and lemon-juice, bring to the boil, and use as required. Time. — 45 to 55 minutes. Average Cost, jd.

237.— CHRISTOPHER NORTH'S SAUCE. (For Meat or Game.) Ingredients. — i glass of port, 2 tablespoonfuls of good brown sauce, i dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, i dessertspoonful of pounded white sugar, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, \ a teaspoonful of nne pepper, £ a teaspoonful of salt.

Method. — Mix all the ingredients thoroughly together and heat the sauce gradually, by placing the vessel in which it is made in a saucepan of boiling water. Do not allow it to boil, and serve directly it is ready. This sauce, if bottled immediately, will keep for a fortnight, and will be found excellent.

Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, iod,

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238.— CHUTNEY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Mangul.

Make a sauce the same as for venison (see page 251) omitting the red currant jelly, and adding instead i heaped-up tablespoonful of mango chutney, chopped rather finely.

239.— CIDER SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Cidre.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of cider, f- of a pint of brown sauce, 2 cloves, i bay-leaf, salt and pepper.

Method. — Simmer the whole until reduced to the desired con:istency, then pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, and serve as a substitute for champagne sauce for braised ham or duck. Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 9d. f% 240.— CURRANT SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Corinthe.) Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of currants cleaned, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, | of a pint of water, i glass of red wine, i dessertspoonful of lemonjuice, \ a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, % of a teaspoonful of ground ginger, sugar to taste.

Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour, and cook gently until it acquires a light brown colour. Put in the wine and water, bring to the boil, add the lemon-rind and lemon-juice, ginger, currants, and sugar to taste. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, then serve without straining.

Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. 241.— CURRY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Kari.) Ingredients. — f- of a pint of good stock, i£ ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of curry powder, i dessertspoonful of flour, i tomato sliced, i small onion sliced, salt.

Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, fry the onion until lightly browned, then add the flour and curry powder. Stir and cook gently for a few minutes, then add the stock, and bring to the boil. Put in the tomato, and seasoning to taste. Simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain and serve.

Time.— From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to lod. 242.— DEMI-GLACE SAUCE (Half Glaze). (Fr.Sauce Demi-Glace.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of Espagnole sauce, ^ of a pint of good gravy.

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Method. — Strain the gravy and remove all the fat. Put the sauce and gravy into a saucepan, boil until well reduced, skim well, and Time.— About \ an hour. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d. without the gravy. 243. —DEVILLED SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a la Diable.) (For Devilled Bones, etc.) Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of Harvey sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls oi vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter (melted), i teaspoonful of mustard, salt, and cayenne.

Method. — Mix all the ingredients together in a deep dish. Score the legs of a cooked chicken, etc., lengthwise, and soak well in the sauce. Grill, or fry in a little hot fat or butter, serve very hot. Time. About i hour. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. for this quantity of 244. — ESPAGNOLE OR SPANISH SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Espagnole.) Ingredients. — i quart of stock, i oz. of.raw lean ham or bacon, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, i carrot, i onion, i clove, 4 pt'Pl ' bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), £ a gill of tomato pulj gill of sherry, 2 mushrooms.

Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the ham, cut into small pieces, fry for a few minutes, and then put in the vegetables slued. the herbs, and spices. Stir these ingredients over a slow tire for about 5 minutes, then add the flour and brown it carefully. Add the stock, tomato-pulp, and sherry, stir the sauce until boiling, draw the saucepan to the side of the fire, let it boil slowly for about i hour, then skim of! the fat, pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth, season, warm up, and serve.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Quantity, i pint. 245.— FINANCIERS SAUCE. (Fr.-Sauce Financiere.) Ingredients. — i pint of brown sauce, i glass of sherry, £ an oz. of meat glaze, Financiere garnish of cocks'-combs, truffles and small mushrooms, salt and pepper.

Method. — Make the brown sauce as directed, add the sherry and meat glaze, and simmer gently until considerably reduced. Pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, add the Financiere garnish, season to taste, and use as required.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 2S, 6d., exclusive of the Financiere.

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246.— FINANCIERE SAUCE. (Another way.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of brown sauce, i glass of sherry or Madeira, 1 tablespoonful of tomato puree, i tablespoonful of chicken-essence, 2 tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor, 2 tablespoonfuls of truffle liquor, Method. — Make the brown sauce as directed, add the rest of the ingredients, simmer gently until well reduced, and pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth. Re-heat, season to taste, and use as reTime. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 9d. 247.— FINANCIERE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Financiere.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of Espagnole sauce, \ an oz. of glaze, i glass of sherry, i tablespoonful of mushroom liquor, financiere garnish. Method. — Put all ingredients in a saucepan, let them come to the boil, and cook slowly until well reduced. A garnish of truffles, small mushrooms, and cocks'-combs is added to the sauce before serving. Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 23. 3d. to 33. 6d. 248.— GAME SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Gibier.) Ingredients. — i pint of Espagnole sauce, i glass of sherry, i small onion, -£ a small carrot, £ of a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a blade of mace, i clove, salt, pepper, the trimmings and carcasses of game; those of grouse or woodcock are preferable.

Method. — Chop the bones and trimmings of game into small pieces, cut the vegetables into thin slices. Put all these ingredients into a saucepan, add the sherry, herbs, flavourings and seasoning, and simmer for 5 minutes. Add the Espagnole sauce, bring to the boil, skin, and cook slowly for 15 minutes, pass through a tammy-cloth, re-heat, add salt and pepper if necessary, and serve.

Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, about is. to is. 3d., without the game.

249.— GHERKIN OR CORNICHON SAUCE. (Fr.Sauce aux Cornichons.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of brown sauce, i tablespoonful of finelychopped gherkins, salt and pepper.

Method. — Make the sauce as directed, a<J4 the prepared gherkins, season to taste, and use as required.

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250.— HAM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Jambon.) (For Veal, Duck, Game, etc.) Ingredients. — £• a pint of Espagnole sauce, or brown sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-shredded or coarsely-chopped ham, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and Mode. — Make the sauce hot in a saucepan, add the ham, and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from the fire, put in the parsley, lemon-juice, season, and serve.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, lod. to is. 251.— INDIAN SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a 1' Indienne.) Ingredients. — f of a pint of stock, i£ ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of curry powder, i dessertspoonful of flour, i teaspoonful of chutney, i sour apple sliced, i onion sliced, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt. Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion brown, sprinkle in the flour and curry powder, and cook gently for 10 or 15 minutes. Add the stock, bring to the boil, put in the apple, chutney, and a good pinch of salt, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Strain, re-heat, add the lemon-juice, and use as required.

Time. — 45 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to Qd. 252.— ITALIAN SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Italiennc.) Ingredients. — J- a pint of Espagnole sauce, 4 small shallots chopped, 4 fresh mushrooms coarsely chopped, i sprig of thyme, i bay-l« tablespoonful of sweet oil, i glass of chabtis, £ a gill of stock. Method. — Put the shallots in a small piece of muslin, and squeeze them in cold water to extract some of the flavour, then place them in a stewpan with the oil, cook for a few minutes, but do not brown. Add the wine, mushrooms, herbs and stock, reduce well, and add the Espagnole. Boil for 10 minutes, take out the herbs, skim off the oil, and s> Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. id. to is. 3d. 253.— ITALIAN SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Italienne.) Ingredients. — | a pint of Espagnole sauce, 4 small shallots, 8 preserved mushrooms, a sprig of thyme, i bay-leaf, i tablespoonful of sweet oil, i glass of Chablis or Sauterne, £ a gill of stock. Method. — Peel the shallots, chop them finely, place them in the corner

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of a clean cloth, hold tightly wrapped up under cold water, and squeeze well. Put them in a small stewpan with the oil, stir over the fire for a few minutes, to blend but not to colour. Add the wine, the mushrooms (finely chopped), herbs, and the stock, let it reduce well, and add the Espagnole. Boil for 10 minutes, take out the herbs, free the sauce from the oil, and keep hot in the bain-marie until required. Time. — i hour. Average Cost, for this quantity, is. id. to is. 3d. Sufficient for two small dishes.

THE SHALLOT, OR ESCHALOT (Fr. eschalote) is a species of onion, A Ilium Ascalonicum, with compound bulbs, which separate into " cloves " like garlK It is the mildest flavoured of all the onions. The shallot is used to flavour soups and made-dishes, and in the raw state makes an excellent pickle. The name is said to be derived from Ascalon, in the vicinity of which it was found growing wild by the Crusaders, who brought it back with them to England. 254.— KIDNEY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Rognons.) Ingredients. — £ of a Ib. of ox kidney, \ a pint of stock or water, \ an oz. of butter, i dessertspoonful of flour, salt and pepper. Method. — Remove every particle of fat, and cut the kidney into small pieces. Melt the butter, fry the kidney for a few minutes, then sprinkle in the flour. Stir and cook until the flour is slightly browned, then add the stock and season to taste. Bring to the boil, simmer gently for 20 minutes, then strain and serve.

Time. — 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. without the stock. 255.— MADEIRA SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Madere.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, \ of a pint of good gravy, i oz. of meat glaze, i glass of Madeira or sherry, salt and pepper. Method. — Simmer the sauce, gravy and wine until well reduced. Season to taste, put in the meat glaze, stir until it is dissolved, then strain the sauce, and use as required.

Time. — About \ hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. for this quantity. Sufficient for f of a pint of sauce.

256.— MINT SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a la Menthe.) (To serve with Roast Lamb.) Ingredients. — 4 dessertspoonfuls of chopped mint, 2 dessertspoonfuls of sugar, \ of a pint of vinegar.

Method. — The mint should be young and fresh-gathered. Wash it free from grit, pick the leaves from the stalks, mince them very fine, put them into a tureen, add the sugar and vinegar, and stir till the former is dissolved. This sauce is better by being made 2 or 3 hours before it is required for the table, as the vinegar then becomes impregnated with the flavour of the mint. Good white wine vinegar is '

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RECIPES FOR BROWN SAl < preferable to ordinary malt vinegar. Sugar should be jdd.-d with discretion until the required degree of sweetness is obtained. Average Cost. — 3d. Sufficient to serve with a quarter of lamb. MINT (Fr. mcnthf), a genus of aromatic perennial herbs of the. -ributed throughout the temperate regions, some of them being common to Britain. 'I h«- ^p-.-.ir mimost cultivated in gardens, and used in various wav> for culinary purposes, an • with vinegar and sugar. From the leaves of the Peppermint (A* ssential oil is distilled, which is largely used as an aromatic, a carminative, and a stimulant medicine. 257.— MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Champignons.) Ingredients. — f- of a pint of brov.-n sauce, \ a pint of button mushrooms, i oz. of butter, salt and pepper.

Method. — Peel the mushrooms and remove the stalks. Heat the butter in a stcwpan, put in the mushrooms, and toss them over the fire for 10 minutes. Drain off any butter that remains unabsorbed, add the brown sauce, season to taste, make thoroughly hot, and Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, /d., in addition to the sauce. 258.— MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Champignons.) (Another way.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of mushrooms, f of a pint of boiling stock, i£ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, salt and pepper.

Method. M«-lt I oz. of butter in a stewpan. add the flour, and slowly until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Meanwhile. peel an-1 the mushrooms coarsely, and 1'ry tin-in i«T i» minutes in the remainder of the butter. When ready, add the stock to the blended butter and Hour, stir until it boils, and season to t, minutes, then add the prepared mushrooms, make thoroughly hot, Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 7d., in addition to the mushrooms.

259.— OLIVE SAUCE FOR POULTRY AND MEAT.

(Fr. — Sauce aux Olives.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnolc sauce, £ of a pint of good stock, i£ doz. small olives, i teaspoonful of lemon -juice. Method.— Carefully stone the olr iring them round in ri! so that they may be replaced in their orii;in;i! 1'ut them into cold water, bring to the boil, and drain well. Have the stork ready boiling, put in the olives, simmer gently W \ an hour, then add the lemon-juice, season, and serve.

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Time. — 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s.

THE OLIVE (Fr. olive).— The picturesque olive-tree is indigenous to Syria and other warm Asiatic countries, and flourishes in Spain and Italy. It was well-known in Greece, Solon, in the sixth century, B.C., enacting laws for its cultivation. By Greek colonists it was introduced into the countries bordering upon the Mediterranean, and is now also cultivated in Peru and California. The olive was first planted in England in the seventeenth century, but its fruit does not ripen in the open air in northern climates. From early ages the olive-tree has been highly esteemed both for its fruit, and for the valuable oil extracted from it. Many associations sacred and classic are connected with the olive-tree, which by the Romans was held to be sacred to the goddess Minerva. Wreaths of wild olive constituted the prizes awarded to the victors in the classic races at Olympia, and an olive branch was, and is still, regarded as the symbol of peace. The Mount of Olives was the scene of four of the principal events in the life of the Founder of Christianity, and at its foot is the traditional site of the Garden of Gethsemane. In the Old Testament many allusions are made by the prophetical and other writers to the olive. The olive-tree attains to a great age: some specimens on the Mount of Olives are estimated to have been 2,000 years in existence. Olives, commonly pickled in brine, are chiefly used in England for dessert or between courses, to remove the flavour of the viands previously eaten. There are three principal kinds of olives which are imported, those from Provence, in France from Spain, and from Italy: those from Lucca are esteemed the best. One species of olive, Olea fragrans, is largely used by the Chinese to perfume tea. The wood of the olive-tree is a yellowish-brown, and is employed for inlaying and ornamental purposes. The wood of an American species, Olea Americana, from its excessive hardness, is called " devil-wood." From the fruit of the olive-tree the valuable olive-oil is obtained, the quality of the oil differing according to the soil on which the olive is grown, and the care taken in extracting and preparing it. It is much used as an article of food in the countries where it is produced, and enters into the composition of many dishes. In England it is chiefly used for dressing-salads, and other culinary purposes. Olive-oil, the lightest of all the fixed oils, is used in medicine, and also in the arts and manufactures. " Gallipoli oil " is largely employed in Turkey-red dyeing, and for making special kinds of soap. Sardines are preserved in olive-oil.

260.— ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce au Jus d' Orange.) Ingredients. — I orange, J pint Espagnole sauce, \ pint stock, or roast meat gravy, lemon juice, red currant jelly, salt, pepper.

Method. — Peel an orange thinly, and cut the peel into strips (julienne fashion), put them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover, boil for 5 minutes, and drain in a sieve. Put in a stewpan, the Espagnole sauce, stock, and £ the juice of the orange. Allow all to reduce to half its quantity. Add the orange peel, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, and a teaspoonful of red currant jelly, season with pepper and salt, boil up again, and serve with roast wild duck, wild boar, or other Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, iod., without the stock.

261.— ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a 1'Orange.) (For Roast Wild Duck, Wild Fowl, Widgeon, Veal, etc.) Ingredients. — \ a gill of brown sauce, i gill gravy, juice of an orange, salt and pepper, the end of an orange finely shredded.

Mix the brown sauce with the meat gravy; to this add the juice of the orange, and boil. Skim, and season with salt and pepper. Stir in the rind of £ an orange, boil again, and serve.

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. — If liked, a small shallot finely-chopped, and £ a glass of port wine or claret can be added, and cooked with the above sauce; this is considered an improvement.

262.— ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Bigarade.) Ingredients. — i Seville orange, £ a pint Espagnole sauce, £ a pint of good stock, i teaspoonful of lemon- juice, i glass of port wine, cayenne, Method. — Remove the rind from half the orange, and cut it in very thin shreds. Boil these in water for 5 minutes. Put the sauce and stock into a stewpan with the juice of \ the orange, and reduce to half quantity. Strain, add all the other ingredients, boil, skim, add the shreds of orange rind, and serve.

Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d.

263.— PARISIAN SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Parisienne.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of brown sauce, i oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of meat glaze, i teaspoonful of lemon- juice, £ a teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, 2 shallots, very finely chopped, salt and pepper. Method. — Heat the sauce, add the meat glaze, lemon-juice, parsley and shallots, and simmer gently for i; minutes. Season to taste, whisk in the butter bit by bit, then serve as an accompaniment to steaks or fillets of beef.

264.— PEPPER SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Poivrade.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of Espagnole sauce, £ an oz. of butter, £ a small carrot, £ a small onion, 18 peppercorns, i bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, 2 cloves, £ an oz. of raw ham.

Me hod. — Mix the onion and carrot, cut the ham into small pieces; fry in the butter for 3 minutes, and add all the other ingredients. Skim, boil for 10 minutes, strain, and servo.

Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Averaje Cost, is. 2d. 265.— PIQU ANTE SAUCE. (Fr— Sauce Piquante.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of brown sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, i tablespoonful of capers cut in two, i tablespoonful of gherkin coarsely chopped, i small onion finely chopped, salt and pepper. Method. — Put the onion and vinegar into a small saucepan, let them boil until considerably reduced, then add the brown sauce, capers, gherkin, salt and pepper if necessary, bring to the boil, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve.

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266.— PIQUANT SAUCE FOR BOILED VEAL.

(Fr. — Sauce Piquante.) (Economical.) Ingredients. — J- a pint of the liquor in which the meat has been boiled, i tablespoonful of vinegar, i dessertspoonful of Harvey or other similar sauce, i dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, i small carrot, i small onion, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the onion and carrot into small pieces, melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the flour and vegetables, and fry them until brown. Now put in the vinegar, stir and boil until considerably reduced, then add the stock, Harvey sauce, ketchup, and seasoning if necessary, boil, strain, and use.

Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2-£d. to 3d. 267.— PORT WINE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Vin d'Oporto.) (For Venison, etc.) Ingredients. — £• of a pint of gravy from roast venison or mutton, a glass of port wine, i teaspoonful of red-currant jelly, a few drops of Method. — Put all the above into a small saucepan, bring to the boil, Time. — 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. without the gravy. 268.— PORT WINE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Vin d'Gporto.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of Espagnole sauce, i glass of port wine, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, i teaspoonful of red currant jelly. Method. — Mix all the ingredients together in a saucepan, bring to the boil, and serve.

Time. — 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 8d.

269.— REFORM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Reforme.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of Pepper sauce, No. 264, i glass of port wine i tablespoonful of red currant jelly, cayenne pepper to taste. Method. — Make the sauce as directed, then add to it the rest of the ingredients, simmer for 10 minutes, strain, and serve. Time. — About i hour altogether. Average Cost, is. 6d. 270.— REGENCE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Regence.) Ingredients. — 2 small shallots, £ an oz. of butter, i gill of fish stock (prepared with the fish bones and some vegetables to flavour), £ a gill of Marsala wine, i| gills of Espagnole sauce, parsley, i, bay-leaf, * sprig of thyme, i teaspoonful of horseradish mustard, i tablespoonful of meat glaze, i dessertspoonful of truffle trimmings, seasoning.

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Method. — Peel the shallots and chop finely, fry them a golden-brown in the butter, add the fish stock and the wine, cover, and let these reduce to half the original quantity. Now add a few Sprigs oi parsley, the bay-leaf, thyme, and the Espagnole sauce, let it simmer gently tor jo minutes, then strain, and pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth. When required for table, stir in the horseradish mustard and the meat glaze — the latter should be incorporated in little bits. Season to taste, stir in the truffles, finely chopped, re-heat slowly, and use as directed.

Time. — 30-40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d.

271.— REMOULADE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce RemouSee recipe for Salad Dressing, page 230.

272. — ROBERT SAUCE (Brown Onion). (Fr. — Sauce Robert.) (For Goose, Pork, Steak, Cutlets.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of Espagnole sauce, £ a glass of white wine, $ an oz. of butter, 4- a small onion, £ a teaspoonful of castor sugar, 1 saltspoonful of dry mustard.

Method. — Mince the onion and fry it brown in the butter,;;dd the mustard and wine, reduce a little. Add the sauce, cook for n> inr. a, and strain.

Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, about lod. 273.— ROBERT SAUCE (for Pork Cutlets.) (Fr.— Sauce Robert.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — f of a pint of brown stock, i oz. of butter, I of an oz. of flour, i dessertspoonful of vinegar, i teaspoonful of made mu2 medium-sized onions, salt and pepper.

Method. — Chop the onions coarsely and fry them brown in the butter. Sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook until brown, then add the stock, vinegar. p«-pprr and salt, bring to the boil and simnu-r gently t«>r \ an hour. Add the mustard a few minutes before serving. Strain, Time.— 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, about;d. 274.— SAGE AND ONION SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Sauge). (For Roast Pork.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of brown stock, 2 medium-sized onions,

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250 HOUSEHOLD MANACxEMENT 2 ozs. of freshly-made breadcrumbs, i£ ozs. of butter or sweet dripping, 1 teaspoonful of finely-chopped sage, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the onions into rather small dice. Melt the butter or fat, put in the onions, and fry slowly until brown. Add the stock and boil up, then put the sage, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, simmer for 10 minutes, and serve.

SAGE (Fr. sauge). — This " sweet herb " is a native of the countries bordering upon the Mediterranean, but has long been cultivated in English gardens. There are several varieties of sage, the green, the red. the small-leaved, and the broad-leaved balsamic. Its leaves and tender tops ate used for stuffings and sauces, the red kind being the best for that purpose, and next to it the green variety. An infusion, prepared from the dried leaves and shoots of the sage, called sage tea, is used as an astringent and tonic medicine.

275.— SALMIS SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Salmis.) Ingredients. — i teaspoonful red currant jelly, \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, i gill of game stock (made from the carcass of cooked game) 2 shallots chopped finely, i bay-leaf, i sprig of thyme, a few mushroom trimmings, i glass of port, i tablespoonful of sweet oil. Method. — Put the oil in a stewpan, and fry the shallots a golden colour, add the bay-leaf, thyme, mushroom trimmings and port wine, cover the stewpan and cook for 5 minutes. Add the stock and sauce, stir well, simmer for 10 minutes, and remove the scum. Pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth, season, add red currant jelly, warm up, Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. 276.— SHALLOT SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Echaiote.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of good brown gravy, No. 6, \ an oz. of butter, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, £ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, 6 shallots finely-chopped.

Method. — Melt the butter, fry the shallots until lightly browned, and add the HOT gravy and the rest of the ingredients. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, and serve.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2^d., in addition to the 277. — SHARP SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce Piquante.) Ingredients. — 4 shallots chopped finely, 3 gherkins chopped, i tablespoonful of chopped capers, i gill of vinegar, i bay-leaf, i sprig of thyme, £ of a pint of Espagnole sauce.

Method. — Put the shallots in a stewpan with the vinegar, bay-leaf, and thyme, cover, and reduce to half quantity. Strain into another: stewpan, add the gherkins, capers, and sauce, boil for a few minutes. Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d.

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278.— SORREL SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce TOseille.) (For Boiled or Braised Fowls.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of good gravy, No. 6, a small handful of sorrel. Method. — Wash and pick the sorrel, cover it with cold water, bring to the boil, cook for a few minutes, and drain well. Have the gravy ready in a saucepan. Chop the sorrel finely, add it to the gravy, and SORREL (Fr. surelle).— The Romans cultivated the sorrel, which is a native of Italy and France, and ate its acrid leaves, stewed with mustard, and seasoned with oil and vinegar. In French cookery, sorrel is largely used, both as a salad and for culinary purposes. Although the leaves are both win >!<•some and pleasant to the taste, sorrel finds little favour with English cooks. There are two species of tins plant, but in England they are scarcely grown as a vegetable. In most parts of Britain sorr wild in the grass meadows. Tartaric acid, tannic acid, and binoxalate of potash are constituents ot sorrel, and impart to it its characteristic acid taste.

279.-SPANISH SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Espangole.) See Espagnole Sauce.

280.— TEXAS SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a la Texas.) Ingredients. — | of a pint of curry sauce, No. 241, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a good of saffron, i oz. of butter.

Method. — Make the curry sauce as directed, and just before serving add the lemon-juice, parsley, saffron, and lastly the butter, which should be whisked in gradually in small pieces, to piv\vnt it oiling. Time. — 45 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, id., in addition to the curry 281.— TOMATO SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Tomate.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of tomatoes, 2 shallots, i bay-leaf, i sprig of thynn* 10 peppercorns, i oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of lean ham, i tablespoonful of Method. Mc-lt the butter in a stew-fan, add the ham cut small, and uillots chopped. Cook over the fire, but do not brown.

add the seasoning, herbs, peppercorns, and tomai.1, stir alter, and boil for about 20 minutes, or until well reduced. Pass mce through a tammy-cloth, warm up, season, and s< Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost,;d. to 8d.

THE TOMATO, or LOVK APPLE (Fr. Tomate), is a native of South America, but was introduced into Europe in the sixteenth centurv. It is successfully cultivated in warm or temperate climates, and !iv in southern Europe; it i< extensively grown in England. Tl. or cooked in various wavs, and is also used as an ingredient in salads, and as a sauce. In it made into pickle. Reference is made to the tomato as the " Love apple," by the late Dickens, in the celebrated trial of BardcU r. Pickwick, in his Pickwick Papers. 282.— TOMATO SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Tomate.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of tomatoes, £ of a pint of good stock, i

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onion sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), I oz. butter, ^ an oz. of flour, sugar, salt and pepper. Method. — Halve the tomatoes, squeeze out the juice, strain am put it aside. Put the prepared tomatoes into a stewpan, add tl stock, onion, bouquet-garni, and a little salt and pepper, simmer vei gently for i hour, then pass through a fine sieve. Melt the butt( stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the tomato-pul] and as much of the strained tomato-juice as may be necessary to obtain the desired consistency. Add a pinch of sugar, season to taste make thoroughly hot, and serve.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 8d. to iod., in addition to the 283.— TRUFFLE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Truffes.) Ingredients. — 3 large truffles, i gill of brown sauce, i gill of tomato sauce, i teaspoonful of anchovy essence, £ an oz. of fresh butter, about i glass of sherry, Method. — Chop the truffles finely, put them in a small stewpan, cover with sherry, add i gill of brown sauce and i gill of tomato sauce, boil for a few minutes, finish with a teaspoonful of anchovy essence and the fresh butter.

Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. 284.— TURTLE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Tortue.) Ingredients. — i^ pints of Espagnole sauce, No. 244, made from turtle stock, i glass of sherry, i teaspoonful of anchovy essence, i dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, -J a teaspoonful of chopped lemon rind, 2 shallots finely chopped. Cayenne pepper to taste. Method. — Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and simmer until considerably reduced, then strain, and serve.

Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d., without the turtle stock broth.

285.— VENISON SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Chevreuil.) Ingredients. — i small onion, i oz. of lean ham, i oz. of butter, \ a gill of vinegar, 12 crushed peppercorns, i bay-leaf, \ a small minced carrot, a little thyme and chopped parsley, \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, i glass of port wine, i dessertspoonful of red currant jelly. Method. — Mince the onion and the ham, fry them in butter, then add the vinegar, peppercorns, bay -leaf, carrot, and herbs. Cover tho saucepan and simmer for 10 minutes. Then add the sauce, wine, and jelly. Cook for 10 minutes, skim and strain. Re-heat, season, and Time,— -From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d.

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RECIPES FOR FISH SAUCES 253 286.— VENISON SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Chevreuil.) Ingredients. — | pint brown sauce No. 164, i dessertspoonful of red currant jelly, ^ a glass of port wine, the juice of £ a lemon, salt, pepper, i dessertspoonful of meat glaze or Lemco. Method.— Put all the ingredients except the glaze into a pan and simmer till the jelly is dissolved. Add the glaze, boil again, skim, strain and serve.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, lod.

287.— WALNUT SAUCE.

Ingredients. — f of a pint of stock, i| ozs. of butter, ij ozs. of flour, 2 small onions sliced, 4 firm pickled walnuts, i tablcspoonful of walnut vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, then sprinkle in the flour. Fry slowly until the flour acquires a nut-brown colour, then add the stock, and simmer gently t minutes. Strain and return to the stewpan, season to taste, add the vinegar and the walnuts, previously cut into dice. Serve with br mutton or any dish requiring a sharp sauce.

Time.— About 40 minutes. Average Cost, ul. or;d. Fish Sauces.

288.— ANCHOVY SAUCE. (Fr. —Sauce d'Anchois.N Ingredients. — £ a pint of IVrluuml same, No. i;S, i t» M^.UC >nful of anchovy essence.

Method. Make the sauce hot in a small stewpan, add the amh»vy nee, and |uired.

Time. — From 5 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, about;<1. 289.— ANCHOVY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce d'Anchois.) (Inexpensive.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of melted buttiT, No. JDJ, i t.-ispoonful of anchovy essence.

Method. Make the melted butter, add to it the anchovy essence, Time. — To make the melted butt.T. 15 minutes. Average Cost, i|d per \ pint.

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290.— ANCHOVY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce d'Anchois.' Ingredients. — £ of a pint of milk, £ of a pint of fish stock or wat< 1 oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour, i teaspoonful of anchovy essence. Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir inthe flour, and cook for 5 or 6 minutes. Add the milk and stock, stir until it boils, simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the anchovy essence, and use as required. 291.— AURORA SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a 1'Aurore.) (For Soles, Trout, etc.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of Bechamel sauce, No. 178, i tablespoonful of cream, i dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar, or lemon-juice, i oz. of butter, the spawn of a lobster, salt, cayenne.

Method. — Pound the lobster spawn and butter well together, and rub through a fine hair sieve. Make the Bechamel hot in a saucepan, put in the spawn, cream, vinegar and seasoning, and stir at the side of the fire until quite hot, but without boiling.

Time. — 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost. 5d. to 6d., without the lobster spawn.

292.— CARDINAL SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Cardinal.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of white sauce, No. 222, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, i dessertspoonful of lemon- juice, \ an oz. of lobster coral finelychopped, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Make the white sauce as directed, add the lobster coral and nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth. Re-heat, add the cream and lemon-juice, and use as required.

Time. — About | an hour. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d., exclusive of the coral. 293.— COCKLE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Mouhs.) Ingredients. — % °f a- pint of cooked cockles, i pint of melted butter, No. 228, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper. Method. — Prepare and cook the cockles in the usual way, and remove them from the shells. Have the melted butter ready boiling, add the cockles and lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve as an accompaniment to cod or other fish.

294.— CODFISH, SAUCE.

Ingredients. — £ of a pint of brown sauce, No. 234, £ of a pint of tomato sauce, No. 281, i glass of Marsala, 2 tablespoonfuls of stock, i oz. of ham shredded, £ of an oz. of butter, i onion chopped, 4 button mushrooms chopped, i clove, i bay-leaf, salt and pepper.

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RECIPES FOR FISH SAUCES 255 Method. — Melt the butter, fry the onion until lightly browned, then add the Marsala, stock, ham, mushrooms, clove and bay-leaf. Cover closely, cook gently until reduced to one-half, then add the br.nvn and tomato sauces. Continue to cook slowly for 10 minutes longer, then pass the whole through a fine sieve or tammy cloth. Re-heat, season to taste, and use as required.

Time> — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, is.

295._CRAB SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce de Crabe.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of white sauce, No. 222, i medium-sized crab, i teaspoonful of anchovy essence, a few drops of lemon-juice, cayenne. Method. — The fish stock required for the white sauce may be obtained by simmering the crab shell (previously made clean and broken into small pieces) in milk and water. Cut the crab in small pieces, add it with the anchovy essence, lemon-juice, and cayenne to the hot sauce, draw the saucepan aside for a few minutes, then serve. Time. — Altogether about 40 minutes. Average Cost, od. to is. 296.— EEL SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Anguille.) Ingredients. — | of a pint of stock, i Ib. of eels, 2 ozs. of lean ham, i onion sliced, a few thin slices of carrot, i bay-leaf, 6 peppercorns, Method. — Wash the eel and cut it into short lengths. Cut the ham into small pieces. Place both eel and ham in a stewpan, add the stock, onion, carrot, bay-leaf, and peppercorns, and season to taste. Simmer gently for about \ an hour, then strain, and use as required. Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. 297.— EGG SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Oeufs.) (For Boiled Fish and Boiled Fowl.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of melted butter, No. 202, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper, 2 hard-boiled eggs. Method. — Boil the eggs until quite hard (15 minutes), and put them into cold water for £ an hour. Remove the shells, cut the whites in small dice, and rub the yolks through a wire sieve. Have the melted butler boiling, stir in the whites of egg, add salt, pepper, and lemonjuice, and use as required. The sauce is usually poured over the fish, and the sieved yolks of egg sprinkled on the top as a garnish. When the sauce is servf d separately, the yolks should be added to it with the whites.

Time. — i houi Average Cost, 50!. Sufficient for 3 or 4 Ib. of fish. 298. -EGG SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Oeufs.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. -V a pint of milk, i oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour, i raw egg, i hard-boiled egg, salt and pepper.

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Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the milk and stir until it boils. Cut the hard boiled egg into dice (or rub the yolk through a wire sieve if needed to decorate the fish), add it, together with any necessary seasoning, to the sauce. Beat the yolk of the raw egg slightly, add to it gradually 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of the sauce, and when thoroughly mixed stir into the remainder of the sauce and cook very gently for 2 or 3 minutes. It must not boil, or it will curdle.

Tim3. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 4d.

299.— FENNEL SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Fenouil.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of melted butter, No. 202, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped fennel.

Method. — Make the melted butter as directed. Wash the fennel well, pick it from the stalks, put it into boiling water, and boil until tender. Drain well, chop finely, and add it to the boiling sauce. Use as reTime. — Altogether 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. for this FIT.!*KKL (Fr. fenouil). — This fragrant and elegant plant is found growing wild, chiefly on chalky soils. It is very generally cultivated in gardens. The teaves are finely divided and the flowers, which are small, are of a yellow colour. It grows to the height of about 3 feet; a larger variety, Giant Fennel, sometimes attains the height of 15 feet. Fennel leaves are served with fish either whole or as a sauce. The seeds are used in medicine as a carminative, and oil of fennel is obtained from Italian fennel, which is cultivated in the south of Europe. 300.— GENEVA SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Genevoise.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of fish stock, i glass of sherry or Madeira wine, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i onion sliced, 2 mushrooms sliced, \ a teaspoonful of lemon- juice, 4- a teaspoonful of anchovyessence, salt and pepper.

Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until slightly browned, add the mushrooms, stir in the flour, and cook the preparation until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Now add the stock, wine, lemonjuice, anchovy-essence, salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for abcMt 20 minutes, pass through a fine strainer or tammy cloth, re-heat, 301.— GENOISE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Genoisc.) (For Fish.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, i pint of fish stock, i gill of claret, \ a small onion, i clove of garlic, 2 cloves, 2 shallots, i bayleaf, a few sprigs of parsley, i sprig of thyme, 2 ozs. of anchovy butter, pepper, salt, one pinch of castor sugar.

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RECIPES FOR FISH SAUCES 257 Method. — Put some fish bones in a stewpan, together with the fish stock or water, the claret, sliced onion, herbs, etc., cover, and reduce well. Add the Espagnole sauce, boil up, and strain through a fine sieve or tammy-cloth. Return the sauce to a stewpan, season with a little pepper and a pinch of sugar, and whisk in the anchovy butter. Keep hot, but do not let the sauce boil again. Serve separately with boiled fish, or pour over braised fish.

Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d.

302.— GENOISE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Genoise.> Ingredients. — i sliced onion, i shallot, \ a clove of garlic, i oz. of butter, bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i teaspoonful anchovy essence, i glass of red burgundy, i pint of Espagnole sauce, a pinch of mignonette pepper.

Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion, shallot, garlic, and bouquet, add the wine and simmer until the onion is cooked. Then add the sauce, simmer for 10 minutes, and pass through a fine strainer. Re-heat, add the anchovy essence and the pepper.

Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9'd. 303. -GRATIN SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Gratin.) Ingredients, -i a pint of Espagnole sauce, i glass of sherry, \ an oz. <>t glaze, i tuHopoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 5 or 6 button mushrooms (fresh if possible \ j shallots or i very small onion finely-chopped, i teaspoonful of anchovy essence.

Method. — Cut the mushrooms into small pieces, put them into a s. pan with the sherry, glaze, parsley, and shallots, and simmer until considerably reduced. Add the sauce and anchovv, cook for 5 minutes, and serve.

Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. 30/1.— HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Hollandaise.) (For Fish and certain Vegetables.) Ingredients. — i gill of white sauce. } of a t^ill of good white stock, rispooniul of lemon-juice, 2 yolks of eggs, i oz. of butter, salt Method. — Make the white sauce hot, add the stock and yolks of eggs well mixed together, and whisk by the side of the fire until the sauce tin. kens, but it must not be allowed to boil. Add the lemon-juice, and the butter bit by bit, season to taste, and pass through a line strainer or tammy-cloth. Re-heat, and use as required. K

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25S HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT 305.— MATELOTE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Matelote.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244, -|- of a pint of fish stock, No. 5, \ a glass of Burgundy, f of an oz. of butter, i tablespoonful of mushroom liquor, a few drops of lemon-juice, £ a small carrot, i small onion, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the carrot and onion into very small pieces. Melt the butter in a saucepan, put in the vegetables and fry until brown. Add the mushroom liquor, fish stock and wine, simmer until reduced onehalf, then add the Espagnole. Stir until it boils, then strain or tammy. Re-heat, add the lemon-juice, salt and pepper, and use as required. Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, About is. 3d. Note. — A simple form of this sauce was originally made by the French sailor (matelot) as a relish to the fish he caught and ate. In some cases, cider and perry were substituted for the wine. The Norman matelots were very celebrated.

306.— MOUSSELINE SAUCE FOR FISH. (Fr.Sauce Mousseline pour Poissons.) Ingredients. — A good handful of spinach or watercress, i tablespoonful of cream, i dessertspoonful of tarragon vinegar, the yolks of 2 eggs, Method. — Pick and wash the spinach, pound it well in a mortar, and rub through a fine sieve. Put this puree, cream, vinegar, salt, pepper and yolks of eggs into a saucepan, whisk briskly over the fire until it becomes a light froth, then serve.

Time. — From 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, about 5d. 307.— MOUSSELINE SAUCE (Cold). (Fr.-- Sauce Mousseline Froide.) (For Fish.) Ingredients. — A good handful of spinach, £ of a pint of cream, | of a pint of mayonnaise sauce, No. 201.

Method. — Prepare the puree of spinach as in the preceding recipe. Whip the cream stiffly, and add to it LIGHTLY the mayonnaise sauce and the puree. Serve with salmon or other fish.

308.— MUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Moutarde.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 2 ozs. of

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RECIPES FOR FISH SAUCES 259 butter, 1 1 ozs. of flour, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, i teaspoonful of French mustard, i teaspoonful of English mustard. Method. — Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for a few minutes, then add the water, and stir until it boils. The mustard must be very thick, otherwise more than 2 teaspoonfuls will be required. Strain the lemon-juice on to the mustard, mix well together, then pour it into the sauce, and stir until it boils. Add the cream, and use as required.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, about $d. 309.— MUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Moutarde.) (For Fresh Herrings.) Ingredients. — i teaspoonful of mustard, i dessertspoonful of flour, i oz. of butter, i gill of boiling water, i teaspoonful of vinegar. Method. — Mix the flour and mustard, knead them well with the butter, stir in the boiling water, turn into a stewpan, and boil for 5 minutes. Add the vinegar, and serve.

310.— OYSTER SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — 12 sauce oysters, i oz. of butter, a teaspoonful of lemonjuice, the yolk of i egg, £ of a pint of Bechamel sauce. Method. — Open the oysters, remove the beards, and put them with their liquor and the butter in a small saucepan. Cover with a lid, and cook for 4 minutes (they must not be allowed to boil), then drain well, and halve or quarter them. Reduce the liquor to half its original quantity, then strain, and return to the saucepan. Add the Bechamel sauce, when hot, bind with the yolk of egg, then put in the oysters and lemon-juice. Stir until the oysters are quite hot, season with a pinch of salt and pepper if necessary, and serve in a hot sauce boat. Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d., in addition to the Bechamel sauce.

311.— PARSLEY SAUCE FOR FISH. (Fr.— Sauce de Persil.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of fish stock, No. 5, or water, i oz. of butter, | of a oz. of flour, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the stock and stir until it boils. Simmer for a few minutes, then season to taste, add the parsley, and serve. If the parsley is allowed to boil in the sauce it will lose some of its green colour.

Time. — 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost. i£d. per £ pint.

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312.— ROE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Laitence.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of cod's roe (or any other kind preferred), i teaspoonful of made mustard, i teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, i dessertspoonful of vinegar, \ a pint of melted butter, salt and pepper. Method. — Cook the roe in a little water; when cool, remove any skin there may be, and bruise the roe with the back of a wooden spoon. Add the mustard, anchovy essence and vinegar, stir the whole into the prepared melted butter, and season to taste. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then strain and serve.

Time. — About % an hour. Average Cost, 4d. to 5d. 313. — SARDINE SAUCE. (Fr. — Sauce aux Sardines.) Ingredients. — i pint of good stock, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, 6 large sardines, the thin rind of i lemon, i shallot, i bay-leaf, nutmeg, Method. — Remove and preserve the bones, chop the sardines rather coarsely. Melt the butter, add the flour, stir and cook gently for a few minutes, then add the stock. Bring to the boil, add the fish bones, lemon-rind, shallot, bay-leaf, a good pinch of nutmeg, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then strain over the chopped sardines, and serve as an accompaniment to fish. Time. — About % an hour. Average Cost, is.

314.— SHRIMP SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Creveltes.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of white sauce, |- of a pint of picked shrimps, i teaspoonful of anchovy essence, a few drops of lemon- juice, cayenne. Method. — The fish stock required for the white sauce may be obtained by simmering the shrimp shells in milk and water. Add the shrimps, anchovy essence, lemon-juice and cayenne to the hot sauce. Cover the saucepan, and let it stand for a few minutes where the contents cannot boil, then serve.

Time. — Altogether about 40 minutes. Average Cost 8d. 3IS._WHITE WINE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Vin Blanc.) (For Fish, etc.) Ingredients. — J pint fish stock, | pint of white stock, \ gill of white wine (chablis), £ of an oz. of flour, 2 ozs, of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, \ a lemon, salt and white pepper.

Method. — If the sauce is required for dressed fish the fish should be cooked in a mirepoix, or foundation preparation, of sliced onion, parsley, and savoury herbs, as is usual, with the appropriate quantity of moisture — the liquor is strained and used in the sauce. Melt i oz.

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FRUIT SAUCES AND S\VKKT SAUCES of butter, stir in the flour and cook a little, then dilute with fish liquor and wine, and cook for 15 minutes. Add, continuously stirring, the remainder of the butter bit by bit, also the ypB one at a time. Season with a little salt and a pinch of mignonette- or white pepper, and add a few drops of lemon-juice, strain through a tammy-cloth or napkin, and use as sauce for dressed fish, etc. -tly served with soles, salmon, trout, and whiting. Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, is.

316.— APPLE SAUCE. (Fr— Sauce aux Pommes.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of apples, i-J ozs. of sugar (or to taste, i oz. of butter, a little water if NECESSARY.

Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, put them into a sam with the sugar, butter, and a very little water, and cook them until tender. Add more sugar if necessary, be (onTime. — 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 41!. to 5<I. 317. - APRICOT SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a 1'Abricot.) Ingredients. --3 ozs. of apricot marmalade or jam, i pint <>t w ss «it sherry, i oz. of sugar, i teaspoonful of as: Method. Put tin and jam into a saucepan,.m • i up. Mix the sherry and arrowroot together, pour the mixtui•ucepan, stir until it thi< l«-n>..in<!

Time. 15 to jo minutes. Average Cost, 4d. in;d. for ti nv. 318.— ARROWROOT SAUCE. </<>,- Sauce Maranta.) Ingredients, i a pint of boiling water, i t:>ing dessertspoonful of arrowroot, i good tablespoonful of castor sugar, or to taste, nutmeg or cinnamon to flavour. Method. — Blend the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold u pour over it the boiling water, stirring meanwhile. Turn into a saucepan, add lemon-juice, sugar, and a good pinch of nutmeg or cinnamon, and Minnvr lor., or 4 mtnuu->. This sauce may be uth a v of puddings, and the flavour v.med by the addition Oi Time. About 8 minutes. Average Cost, "d from the rootstocks of several species ot plant* of th? • izilian arrow swego arrowroot from Indian corn; English.u Und arrowroot, or sago, from the coots of Ann* mafula: is esteemed • t is prepared by *•, Uerwardv by mean* of water, is separated fi.:sg passed through a sieve and again washed, the mass is allowed to settle, the 1 'ocomes arrowroot. Potato starch is sometimanadtil'--: hat Renuinc arrowroot when formed Into a i ret.un:' ->c adulterated article will become thin and resemble milk in the

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319.— ARROWROOT SAUCE, CLEAR.

Ingredients. — \ a pint of cider (equal quantities of wine and water, or any kind of fruit-juice may be substituted), i level dessertspoonful of arrowroot, sugar to taste, cinnamon, lemon-rind, or other flavouring ingredient.

Method. — Simmer the flavouring ingredient in the cider for 10 minutes. Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water, strain the cider into it, stirring meanwhile, and replace in the saucepan. Add sugar to taste, simmer gently for 4 or 5 minutes, then serve. Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d., when cider is used. 320.— BRANDY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Cognac.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of water, \ a wineglass of brandy, 4 ozs. of loaf sugar, \ an oz. of cornflour, nutmeg if liked.

Method. — Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little of the water, and put the rest into a copper saucepan with the sugar. Boil and reduce to a thin syrup, skimming occasionally, add the cornflour to the syrup, stir until it boils, then add the brandy, and serve. Time. — About % an hour. Average Cost, from 3^d. to 4d. 321.— BRANDY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Cognac.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of milk, i teaspoonful of arrowroot or cornflour, i teaspoonful of castor sugar, the yolk of i egg, a wineglassful of Method. — Mix the arrowroot and milk smoothly together, pour into a small saucepan, and stir until it boils, add the sugar, and draw aside to cool slightly. Mix the brandy and egg together, pour the mixture into the sauce, stir until it thickens, and serve. Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. for this quantity. 322.— CARAMEL SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Caramel.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of syrup, i oz. of loaf sugar, i dessertspoonful of arrowToot, vanilla-essence, cream.

Method. — Brown the sugar in a copper saucepan, add the syrup, and boil gently for 10 minutes. Blend the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold cream, stir it into the sauce, simmer for 3 or 4 minutes longer, then add vanilla-essence to taste. Strain, and use as required. 323.— CHANTILLY APPLE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Chantilly.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cooking apples, i-J- ozs. of castor sugar, i oz. oi butter, £ of a pint of cream.

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Method. — Peel, core and slice the apples, and place them in a stewpan with 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of cold water. Add the butter and sugar, cook gently until quite tender, then pass the preparation through a fine sieve. Whip the cream stiffly, stir it into the apple puree, and use as required.

324.— CHAUDEAU SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Chaudeau.) Ingredients. — 4 yolks of eggs, i wineglassful of sherry, i wineglassful of water, i tablespoonful of castor sugar.

Method. — Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, and whisk them by the side of the fire until thick and frothy. This sauce may be served with plum pudding.

325.— CHERRY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Cerises.) Proceed the same as for venison sauce No. 286, adding 2 ozs. of glac6 cherries cut in halves or quarters.

326.— CHOCOLATE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Chocolat.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of water, i tablespoonful of brandy, i teaspoonful of vanilla essence, i oz. of crcme de riz or rice flour, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, 4 ozs. of grated chocolate.

Method. — Put the sugar, chocolate, and water into a saucepan, and stir until it boils. Mix the creme de riz smoothly with a little cold water, pour it into the saucepan and simmer for 5 minutes. Pass through a tammy-cloth or fine strainer, add the brandy and vanilla, and Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, from 8d. to 9d. for this 327.— CHOCOLATE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Chocolat.) (Economical.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, 3 ozs. of grated chocolate, i oz. of sugar (or to taste), i teaspoonful of cornflour, i teaspoonful vanilla Method. — Dissolve the chocolate and sugar in the hot milk, and simmer for a few minutes. Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little milk or water, pour it into the saucepan, stir and cook for 3 minutes, add the vanilla essence, and serve.

Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, sd. to gd.

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328.— CITRON SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Citron.) Ingredients, — \ a pint of boiling milk, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, \ an oz. of cornflour, 2 yolks of eggs, the finely-chopped rind of \ a lemon. Method. — Blend the yolks of the eggs and the cornflour together, add the sugar and lemon-rind, and stir in the boiling milk. Whisk the preparation over the fire until it becomes creamy, then use as re329.— COFFEE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Cafe.) Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of raw coffee berries, i dessertspoonful of arrowroot or cornflour, i glass of brandy, sugar to taste, ^ a pint of boiling Method. — Roast the coffee berries in a pan over a quick fire until well-browned, then pound them in a mortar. Pour the boiling water over the prepared coffee, let it stand for a few minutes, then strain it into a saucepan. Blend the cornflour smoothly with the brandy, stir it into the coffee, sweeten to taste, simmer gently for 5 minutes, 330.— CORNFLOUR SAUCE.

Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk, i dessertspoonful (level) of castor sugar, i dessertspoonful (level) of cornflour, the rind of one lemon. Method. — Remove the outer skin of the lemon in extremely thin shavings with a sharp knife, put them into the milk, and simmer for 5 minutes. Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little cold milk or water; strain the milk and add it to the cornflour, stirring all the time. Return to the saucepan, add the sugar, boil for i minute, and serve. 331.— CRANBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Airelles Rouge.) (For Roast Turkey, Fowl, etc.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of cold water, i pint of cranberries, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, i tablespoonful of red currant jelly, £ a glass of port Method. — Wash the cranberries in cold water. Put them into a saucepan with the water, and simmer gently for \ an hour, then add the sugar, wine, and red currant jelly. Boil again, and strain. Serve cither hot or cold in a sauccboat or glass dish.

Time. — 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost,;d. to gd. for this quantity.

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332.— CUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr.— Creme cuiLe.) (For Puddings or Tarts.) Ingredients.— i pint of milk, 2 eggs, 3 ozs. of castor sugar, i tablespoonful of brandy, bay-leaf if liked.

Method.— Boil the milk and bay-leaf, add the sugar, and cool slightly. Beat the eggs well, pour the milk on to them, and strain into a jug. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, in which to place the jug, keep stirring until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. Stir in the brandy, and serve. Tim3. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to yd. 333.— FROTHY SAUCE. (Fr.— Creme fouettee.) Ingredients. — i wineglassful of sherry, i tablespoonful of castor sugar, i egg, £ of a pint of boiling milk.

Method. — Dissolve the sugar in the boiling milk, and let it cool slightly. Beat the egg and sherry well together, add the hot milk and mix well. Stand the basin in a stewpan of boiling water, whisk briskly until the preparation thickens and becomes very frothy, and serve at once.

Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, $d. to 6d. 334.— GERMAN CUSTARD SAUCE. (Fr.— Creme cuite a 1'Allemande.) Ingredients. — The yolks of 2 eggs, i glass of sherry, 2 or 3 lumps of sugar, the rind of £ a lemon.

Method. — Rub the sugar on the lemon rind, then crush, and diin the wine. Put all the ingredients int-t a small saucepan, and whisk BRISKLY over a slow fire until it forms a thick froth, but take care thai it does not curdle. Serve at once.

Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. 335.— GINGER SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Gingembre.) Ingredients. — i teaspoonful of ground ginger. 4 t.iblespoonfuK d castor sugar, 2 or 3 strips of lemon-rind, i tablespoonful of lemonjuice, 2 tablespoontuls of brandy or wine, \ a pint of water. Method. — Put the ginger, sugar, lemon-rind and water into a stewpan, and simmer the ingredients gently for 15 minutes. Strain, return to the stewpan, add the brandy and lemon-juice, re-heat, and serve. Time.— About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to Od.

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336.— GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Groseilles.) Ingredients. — i pint of green gooseberries, % of a pint of milk, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of sugar, nutmeg.

Method. — Barely cover the bottom of a saucepan with water, put in the gooseberries and cook slowly until tender, then rub through a fine sieve. Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in. the flour and cook well, add the milk and stir until it boils. Add the gooseberry puree and the sugar, make hot, and serve.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 4^d. to 5d. for this quantity. The GOOSEBERRY (Fr. groseille), the common name for the well-known and wholesome fruit of ribes grossularia, a prickly shrub, indigenous to Britain, many parts of Europe and North America. The fruit varies in flavour, and is red. yellow, green, or whitish, and hairy or smooth on its surface. It is used largely for preserves, and for pies, puddings, etc. Malic and citric acid are found in the gooseberry, and from the berries a champagne is manufactured. 337.— GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce aux Groseilles.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — |- of a pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of green gooseberry jam, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a little apple-green or spinachgreen colouring.

Method. — Put the water, jam and lemon juice into a saucepan, and bring to the boil. Strain or pass through a tammy-cloth, re-heat, add a little colouring if desirable, and serve.

Time.— About 15 minutes. Average Cost, about 3d. for this quantity. 338.— JAM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Confiture.) Ingredients. — i good tablespoonful of apricot, raspberry or other jam, ^ of a pint of water, £ a teaspoonful of lemon- juice, sugar to taste, carmine or cochineal, if necessary.

Method. — Put the water and jam into a small saucepan, add sugar to taste, and make thoroughly hot. Put in the lemon-juice, and a few drops of colouring, if necessary strain, and serve with sweet puddings, etc.

Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 3d.

339.— LEMON BRANDY. (Fr.— Cognac au Citron.) (For Flavouring Custards.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of cooking brandy, £ of a pint of water, i oz. of loaf sugar, i lemon.

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Method. — Remove from the lemon the thinnest possible rind, as the least particle of the white pith would spoil the flavour. Put the brandy into a bottle, add the lemon-rind, and let it infuse for 24 hours, then strain and return to the bottle. Boil the sugar and water together, skim well, and when perfectly cold, add it to the brandy. A dessertspoonful of this will be found an excellent flavouring for boiled custards. Time. — Altogether 26 or 27 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. 340. —LEMON SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Citron.) (For sweet Puddings.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of water, i glass of sherry, the juice and rind of i lemon, the yolks of 2 eggs, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, 3 or 4 lumps of sugar.

Method. — Rub the sugar on to the lemon until all the outer rind is removed. Squeeze and strain the juice. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, and cook well without browning. Add the water, stir until it boils, then put in the sugar and lemon juice. Mix the yolks of eggs and sherry together, let the sauce cool slightly, then pour them in, stir until the sauce thickens, and serve.

Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. to 6d. for this 341.— LEMON SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Citron.) (Economical.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of boiling water, i lemon, i oz. of loaf sugar, I dessertspoonful of arrowroot.

Method. — Rub the sugar on the lemon until the outer rind is removed. Have the water boiling in a saucepan, add the sugar. Mix the arrowroot smoothly with a little cold water, pour it into the saucepan, and stir until it boils. Add the lemon-juice, and more sugar if necessary, and Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. for this quantity. 342.— MARMALADE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce MarmeIngredients. — \ a pint of water, i glass of sherry, 2 tablespoonfuls of marmalade, i dessertspoonful of sugar (or to taste), i teaspoonful of Method. — Put the water and marmalade into a saucepan, and stir until it boils. Add the sugar, lemon-juice and sherry, stir until the sugar is dissolved, and serve.

Time. — Alpout 10 minutes, Average Cost, 5d. with the sherry.

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343._MARMALADE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Marmelade.) (Economical.) Ingredients. — % a pint of water, i tablespoonful of marmalade, i tablespoonful of sugar, i large teaspoonful of cornflour, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice.

Method. — Boil the water. Mix the cornflour smoothly with a little cold water, add it to the boiling water, stirring all the time. Put in the sugar and marmalade, simmer for 5 minutes, add the lemon-juice, 344.— ORANGE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce a 1'Orange.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of milk, i glass of curacoa, 2 yolks of eggs, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, i small orange.

Method. — Boil the milk, add the sugar, the grated orange rind, and a tablespoonful of orange-juice, simmer for 5 minutes, then cool slightly. Beat the eggs with a little milk, pour them into the saucepan, stir until they begin to thicken, then add the cura9oa, and serve. Time. — About | an hour. Average Cost,;d. to 8d. for this quantity. 345.— ORANGE SYRUP. (Fr.— Sirop d'Orange.) Ingredients. — \ a pint of orange juice, the rind of 2 oranges, \ of a Ib. of castor sugar.

Method. — Remove the rind in VERY thin strips; they should be almost transparent. Put the sugar, orange-juice, and rind into a saucepan, and simmer very gently for about |- an hour. Remove the scum as it rises. Strain, and when cold, bottle for use. A little of this will be found an excellent flavouring for sweet sauces and custard. Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. 346.— PLUM PUDDING SAUCE.

Ingredients. — i glass of brandy, i glass of Madeira, 2 ozs. of butter, castor sugar.

Method. — Put the butter and i tablespoonful of castor sugar into a basin, and let it stand on or near the stove until the butter is melted. Stir in the brandy and Madeira, add more sugar if necessary, and when hot enough to use, either pour it over the pudding or serve separately in a tureen.

Time* — About £ an hour. Average Cost, ioclf

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347. —RASPBERRY SAUCE. (Fr. Sauce Framboise.) Ingredients.— J of a pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of raspberry jam, i glass of sherry, sugar to taste, a few drops of carmine or cochineal. Method. — Put the water, jam, and 3 or 4 lumps of sugar into a saucepan, and simmer for 10 minutes, then add the sherry, and strain. Add sugar to taste, and a few drops of colouring if required, and serve. Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, from sd. to 6d. 348.— RASPBERRY SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Framboise.) Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of water, i tablespoonful of jam, i tablespoonful of sugar, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Method. — Boil the sugar and water together for 10 minutes, then add the jam and lemon-juice, and simmer a few minutes longer. A lew drops of cochineal will brighten the colour, but are not essential. Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 2£d. for this quantity. 349.— RED-CURRANT SAUCE. (For puddings or for Venison, Hare, etc.) Ingredients. — A small jar of red-currant jelly, i glass of port wine. Method. — Put the wine and jelly into a small saucepan, let them slowly come to the boil, and serve when the jelly is dissolved. Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, rod.

350.— SAGO SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Sagou.) Ingredients. — i tablespoonful of large -: a pint of boiling water, I glass of sherry, i dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, sugar to taste, a few thin strips of lemon-rind.

Method. — Add the sago and lemon-rind to the boiling w.iter, and simmer gc-ntly until the sajjo is quite clear. Re-move- the lemon-rind, add the sherry and lemon-juice, sweeten to taste, make quite hot, 351.— SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING. (Soyers.) Ingredients. —.} of a pint of milk, 2 glasses of brandy, i tablospoonful tor sugar, the yolks of 2 eggs, a very little grated lemon-rind.

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' Method. — Mix all the ingredients in a saucepan, set the pan on the fire, and whisk until the contents thicken and become frothy. Serve at once.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is.

352.— SAUCE FOR SWEET PUDDINGS.

Ingredients. — \ of a Ib. of butter, £ of a Ib. of pounded sugar, a wineglassful of brandy or rum.

Method. — Beat the butter to a cream, add the pounded sugar and brandy or rum; stir until the whole is thoroughly mixed, and serve. This sauce may either be poured round the pudding or served in a tureen, according to taste.

353.— SAUCE FOR XMAS PUDDING.

Ingredients. — i wineglass of rum, 4 yolks of eggs, 3 whites of eggs, 2 ozs. of castor sugar, \ gill of water.

Method. — Put all the ingredients into a stewpan with half a gill of water, stand it in a larger pan of boiling water, and whisk briskly until the whole becomes thick and frothy. Serve at once. Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. or lod. for this quantity. 3S4._SAUCE FOR XMAS PUDDING. (Another Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of sugar, 10 bitter almonds, i wineglassful of brandy.

Method. — Blanch and finely chop the almonds, then pound them well in a mortar. Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, add the almonds and brandy, continue to beat until the preparation has the appearance of clotted cream, then use as required. Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3SS._SAUCE FOR XMAS PUDDING. (Another Ingredients. — £ of a pint of brandy or sherry, £ of a pint of boiling water, i tablespoonful of castor sugar, i level teaspoonful of arrowroot. Method. — Blend the arrowroot smoothly with 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, and pour over it the boiling water, stirring meanwhile.

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Put it into a stewpan with the brandy or wine and sugar, boil gently for 2 minutes, then serve.

Time. — Altogether, 10 minutes. Average Cost, lod. to is. 356.— SOYER'S SAUCE FOR PLUM PUDDING.

Ingredients. — \ of a pint of brandy, £ of a pint of milk, the yolks of 3 eggs, i dessertspoonful of castor sugar, a good pinch of very finelygrated lemon-rind.

Method. — Beat the yolks of eggs and milk well together, add the sugar and lemon-rind, and turn the whole into a small saucepan. Whisk until the mixture thickens, then add the brandy, continue to whisk until thoroughly hot, and serve separately or poured over the Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d.

357.— SWEET MELTED BUTTER.

Ingredients. — \ a pint of milk or water, i oz. of butter, £ an oz. of flour, \ an oz. of sugar, a pinch of salt.

Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, and cook well without browning. Add the milk or water and stir until it boils. Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the sugar, a good pinch of salt, and Time. — 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2^d., if made with milk. 358.— VANILLA SAUCE. (Fr. Sauce a la Vanille.) Ingredients. — i pint of milk, i egg, i oz. of sugar, £ an oz. of cornflour, a few drops of vanilla essence.

Method.— Mix the cornflour smoothly \s-ilh a little of the milk. ! ready a saucepan of boiling water, put the remainder of the milk into a jug, and stand the jug in the boiling water until the milk is quite hot. Add the sugar to the milk, also add the moistened cornflour and stir until it thickens. Beat the egg in a basin, and add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of the sauce to it gradually. Pour into the jug and stir for a few minutes to cook the egg, then add the Vanilla essence, and Time. — 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, about 3^d. 359.— WINE SAUCE. (Fr. Sauce au Vin.) Ingredients. — £ of a pint of water, i glass of sherry, i tablcspoonful of any kind of jam, i tablespoonful of castor sugar, lemon-juice to taste.

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Method. — Put the sugar and water into a saucepan, and simmer for 10 minutes, then add the rest of the ingredients, bring to the boil, strain, and serve.

360.— WINE SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce au Vin.) (Economical.) Ingredients. — | a pint of water, i large glass of sherry, i tablespoonful (level) of sugar, i teaspoonful of arrowroot.

Method. — Mix the arrowroot with a little of the water and boil the remainder, pour it on to the arrowroot, stirring all the time. Return to the saucepan, add the wine and sugar, boil up, and serve. The colour may be improved by the addition of a few drops of carmine or cochineal. Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. for this quantity. 361.— WHITE SAUCE FOR PUDDINGS.

Ingredients. — | of a pint of milk, i dessertspoonful of cornflour, sugar to taste, 2 or 3 thin strips of lemon-rind, salt.

Method. — Blend the cornflour smoothly with a little cold milk, and put the remainder into a saucepan. Add the lemon-rind and a pinch of salt, simmer gently for 10 or 15 minutes, then strain over the blended cornflour, stirring meanwhile. Return to the saucepan, sweeten to taste, simmer gently for 5 minutes, and use as required. Any other flavouring may be substituted for the lemon-rind.

'362.— ZWETSCHEN SAUCE. (Prune Sauce.) Ingredients. — J a Ib. of French prunes, i glass of port or sherry, I tablespoonful of lemon- juice, the finely grated rind of \ a lemon, £ a teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, sugar to taste. Method. — Simmer the prunes until tender, in just enough water to cover them. When cool, crack, and preserve the kernels. Replace the fruit and kernels in the stewpan, add sugar to taste, cinnamon, Jemonrind and lemon-juice, cook gently for 10 minutes, and pass through a fine hair sieve. Re-heat, add the wine, and a little water if too thick, and use as required.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 8d.

CINNAMON (Fr. cinnamome). — The cinnamon tree, Laurus cinnanomum, is a valuable and beautiful member of the Lauraceae, or laurel family. Its trunk is short and straight, with wide spreading branches, and a smooth, ash-like bark. H attains a height of 20 to 30 feet. The leaves are oval-shaped, 3 to 5 inches long; the flowers are in panicles, with six small petals of a pale-yellow colour. The fruit, which resembles an acorn, is soft and insipid, and of a deep-blue. It incloses a nut, the kernel of which germinates after falling. The leaves, fruit and root of the cinnamon all yield a volatile oil, oil of cinnamon. The bark of the tree — the thinner bark is the most esteemed — furnishes the well-known cinnamon used by cooks and confectioners. From the fragrant fatty substance of the fruit candles were formerly made exclusively for the King of Ceylon. Cinnamon is employed in medicine as a carminative and stomachic remedy.

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RECIPES FOR MISCELLANEOUS SAUl K> Miscellaneous Sauces.

363.— BENTON SAUCE.

Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, i tablcspoonful of scraped horseradish, I teaspoonful of made mustard, I teaspoonful of castor Method. — Mix all the ingredients well together, and serve as an accompaniment to either hot or cold roast beef.

364.— BLACK BUTTER SAUCE.

Ingredients. — 1£ ozs. of butter, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of vinegar.

Method. — Cook the butter in a frying or saute-pan until it acquirea nut-brown colour, then add the parsley and vinegar, cook for i minute longer, and serve.

365.— BOAR'S HEAD SAUCE.

Ingredients. — \ a pint of dissolved red-currant jelly, j of a pint of port wine, 4 oranges, 3 lumps of sugar, i finely-chopped.^h.illot, i mustardspoonful of mixed mustard, pepper.

Method. — Shred the rind of 2 oranges into very fine strips, and rub the lumps of sugar over the rinds of the remaining two. I'm th<- rm<l and sugar into the liquid jelly, add the wine, shallot, must. ml, and a liberal seasoning of pepper, and use as required, or the sauce may be put into well-corked bottles and stored for use.

Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. lod.

366.— CAMBRIDGE SAUCE.

Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of olive oil, i tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 4 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, 4 fillets of anchovies, i spoonful of capers, i dessertspoonful of French mustard, i teaspoonful of English mustard, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a sprig of tarragon, a sprig of chervil, a pinch of cayenne. Method. — Pound all the ingredients except the parsley well together, then pa s through a hai: If too stiff, add a little oil and vinegar gradually until the consistency resembles that of mayonnaise sauce.

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Stir in the parsley, and keep on ice until required. This is an excellent sauce to serve with cold meat.

Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to gd. 367.— CARRACK SAUCE.

Ingredients. — i quart of vinegar, 8 dessertspoonfuls of walnut pickle, 5 dessertspoonfuls of Indian soy, 5 dessertspoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 3 dessertspoonfuls of mango pickle sliced, 2 cloves of garlic finely-chopped.

Method. — Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, let it stand for a month, shaking it 2 or 3 times daily. At the end of this time the sauce will be ready for use, but it will keep good for a length of time in well-corked bottles.

Time. — i month. Average Cost, is. 6d.

368.— CAYENNE VINEGAR.

Ingredients. — i pint of vinegar, \ an oz. of cayenne pepper. Method. — Mix the vinegar and cayenne together in a bottle, let it stand for i month, shaking the preparation daily. When ready, strain into well-corked bottles, and store for use. Time. — i month. Average Cost, about 6d.

369.— CHEESE SAUCE.

Ingredients. — £ of a pint of milk, £ of an oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour, i tablespoonful of finely-grated cheese, salt and pepper. Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook the mixture for 5 minutes without browning, and add the milk. Season to taste, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then stir in the cheese, and use as required.

Time.— 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d.

370.— DEMI-GLACE SAUCE.

Ingredients. — \ a pint of Espagnole sauce (see page 240), £ of a pint of good gravy, salt and pepper.

Method. — Make the Espagnole sauce as directed, boil until well reduced, then add the gravy, simmer for about 10 minutes, season to

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RECIPES FOR MISCELLANEOUS SAUCES 275 371.— EPICUREAN SAUCE.

Ingredients.— i gill of mayonnaise sauce, No. 201, £ a gill of aspic jelly, (see jellies), i- a gill of cream, i tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, i teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, i dessertspoonful of chopped gherkins, i dessertspoonful of chopped chutney, £ a cucumber, salt, pepper, sugar.

Method. — Peel the cucumber thinly, cut it into small pieces, and cook till tender in salted water. Drain of! the water, and rub the cucumber through a fine sieve. Carefully mix the mayonnaise with the cream, anchovy-essence, gherkins, and chutney. Mix the cucumber puree with the vinegar and the aspic, which should be dissolved but almost cold. Blend both mixtures together. Season with salt, pepper, and a little castor sugar, and serve with fish, cold meat, or vegetables such as asparagus, green artichokes, etc. This also makes a nice dressing for fish salads. Time. — 40 minutes. Cost, about is.

372.— FISH SAUCE. (Fr— Sauce Poisson.) Ingredients.— i quart of malt vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of walnut ketchup, 2 tablespoonfuls of soy, i oz. of cayenne, i clove of garlic, 2 shallots sliced.

Method.— Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, and shake them daily for a fortnight. When ready, strain into small bottles, cork securely, and store for use.

Time. — 14 days. Average Cost, lod. to is.

373.— HARVEY SAUCE.

Ingredients. — i quart of malt vinegar, £ of a pint of In £ of a pint of mushroom or walnut vinegar, 6 anchovies finely-cho, i clove of garlic bruised, £ of an oz. of cayenne. Method. — Put all the ingredients into an earthenware jar, cover closely, let the mixture remain for i month, stirring it j daily. When ready, strain into small bottles, cork securely, and store or use.

Time. — i month. Average Cost, is. 6d.

374.— HERB SAUCE.

Ingredients.— i stick of horseradish finely scraped, 2 shallots shredded, sprigs each of marjoram, thyme, basil, and tarragon, 4 cloves, poonful of caramel browning, No. 155, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, i pint of water. Method. Simmer all these ingredients together for £ an hour, an. I

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when quite cold strain into small bottles. Cork and seal securely, and store for use. This sauce will be found useful for flavouring gravies and stews.

MARJORAM (Fr. Marjolaine). There are several species of marjoram, which grows wild on chalky soils of Britain, and is one of the commonest of ornamental wild plants. The species used for culinary purposes is the Sweet Marjoram, a native of Southern Europe. It is cultivated in gardens, and when it blossoms it is cut and the leaves, which have an agreeable aromatic flavour, are dried. Marjoram is a favourite ingredient in stuffings, soups, sauces, etc. 375.— HESSIAN SAUCE.

Ingredients. — £ of a pint of sour cream (about), i tablespoonful of grated horseradish, i tablespoonful of fine breadcrumbs, milk, sugar, salt. Method. — Soak the breadcrumbs in just as much milk as they will absorb, add the grated horseradish, and a pinch of salt and sugar. Add cream gradually until the desired consistency is obtained, and serve as an accompaniment to roast beef or beef steak.

376.— JELLY SAUCE.

Ingredients. — i small pot of red-currant jelly, i glass of port wine. Method. — Dissolve the red-currant jelly, add the wine, make it thoroughly hot, and serve as an accompaniment to venison. Time. — \ an hour. Average Cast, is.

377.— LEAMINGTON SAUCE.

Ingredients. — 3 pints of vinegar, i pint of walnut-juice. \ a pint of Indian soy, £ of a pint of port wine, i oz. of shallots, \ of an oz. of garlic, | an oz. of cayenne.

Method. — Procure young green walnuts, pound them to a pulp, sprinkle liberally with salt, and let them remain for 3 days, stirring at frequent intervals. Strain the juice obtained, measure and add the rest of the ingredients in the proportions stated above, the garlic and shallots being previously pounded or finely-chopped. Turn the whole into a large jar, cover closely for 3 weeks, then strain into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use. Time. — About i month. Average Cost, 2S. lod. to 33. 378.— LEGHORN SAUCE.

Ingredients. — 3 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, salad-oil, vinegar, tarragon vinegar, 2 anchovies pounded and sieved, £ a teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, nutmeg, pepper.

Method.— Crush the yolks with a wooden spoom in a basin, add saladoil, drop by drop at first, until the preparation has the consistency

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RECIPES FOR MISCELLANEOUS SAUCES 277 of very thick cream. Stir in a pinch of nutmeg, a little pepper, anchovies, parsley, and vinegar to taste. Set on ice until wanted. Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d.

379.— LEMON SAUCE. (For Fowls, etc.) Ingredients. — i- a pint of chicken stock, £ of a pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, the thinly-peeled rind and juice of I lemon, i£ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Simmer the lemon-rind and the milk and stock together for 10 minutes. Melt the butter in a small saucepan, add the flour, and stir and cook for 5 or 6 minutes, without browning. Pour in the stock and milk, stir until boiling, simmer gently for 20 minutes, season to taste, add the cream and lemon-juice, and sen e. Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to lod. 380.— LIVER AND LEMON SAUCE.

Ingredients. — | a pint of melted butter, No. 202, I lemon, the liver of a fowl, salt and pepper.

Method. — Boil the liver until firm, and chop it finely. Grate off the lemon -rind, and mix it with the liver. Remove every particle of white pith, and cut the lemon into dice, putting all the pips aside. Make the melted butter sauce as directed in No. 202, add the pivp.m d liver, lemon-rind and dice, season to taste, and use as required. 381.— LIVER AND PARSLEY SAUCE.

Ingredients. — V a pint of melted butter, No. 202, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the liver of a fowl, salt and JK •]>; Method. — Boil the liver until firm, and chop it finely, make the melted butter as directed, add the parsley and prepared liver, season to 382.— NUT BROWN BUTTER. (Fr.— Beurre Noir.) Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper. Method. — Cook the butter in a frying p;m until it turns brown, then add the parsley, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Let the whole simmer for i or 2 minutes, when it is ready to serve. Time.— £ of an hour. Average Cost, 51!.

383-— QUIN'S SAUCE.

Ingredients,— i pint of mushroom ketchup. ] a pint of walmt pickle,

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£ a pint of port wine, % of a pint of soy, 1 2 anchovies chopped, 1 2 shallots chopped, £ a teaspoonful of cayenne.

Method. — Put all the ingredients into a saucepan, simmer gently for 1 5 minutes, and strain. When quite cold, bottle, cork and seal securely, Time. — 25 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 8d.

384.— READING SAUCE.

Ingredients. — 2% pints of walnut pickle, i£ ozs. of shallots, coarselychopped, i quart of water, |- of a pint of Indian soy, i anchovy coarselychopped, i an oz. of ginger bruised, £ an oz. of white peppercorns, i oz. of mustard seed, \ an oz. of cayenne, £ of an oz. of dried bayleaves.

Method. — Put the walnut pickle and shallots into a large jar, and cook in a gentle oven until reduced to 2 pints. In another jar place the cayenne, mustard seed, peppercorns, ginger and anchovy, add the soy and water, and cook in a gentle oven for i hour after simmering point is reached. Mix the contents of the 2 jars together, and when quite cold add the bay-leaves. Leave closely covered for i week, then strain into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use. Time. — 2 hours and i week. Average Cost, 2s. 8d. to 35. 385.— SAUCE FOR STEAKS, CHOPS, ETC.

Ingredients. — i pint of mushroom ketchup or walnut pickle, £ an oz. of pickled shallots, \ an oz. of grated horseradish, £ an oz. of allspice, i oz. of black pepper, i oz. of salt.

Method. — Pound the shallots and horseradish until smooth in a mortar, add the rest of the ingredients, and let the whole stand closely covered for 14 days. Strain into small bottles, cork and seal securely, Time. — 2 weeks. Average Cost, is. 6d.

ALLSPICE (Fr. pintent).— The popular name for pimento, or Jamaica pepper, the dried berries of Eugenia pimento., a lofty handsome tree, with dark shiny green leaves and fragrant white flowers. It belongs to the Myrtaceae, or myrtle family, and receives its name of " Allspice " from its possessing the combined flavours of cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg. The berries are gathered in the green state and dried in the sun, which causes them to turn black. Allspice is used in medicine as an aromatic, and in various ways is employed in cookery.

386.— STORE SAUCE.

Ingredients. — i pint of mushroom ketchup, 4- a pint of walnut ketchup, £ a pint of port wine, 12 anchovies, 6 shallots, 2 tablespoonfuls of Method. — Pound the anchovies and shallots, or chop them finely; add them to the rest of the ingredients, and boil gently for i hour.

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RECIPES FOR MISCELLANEOUS SAUCES 279 When cold, put the preparation into well-corked bottles, and store for use.

Time. — 1£ hour. Average Cost, 35.

387.— SUBSTITUTE FOR CAPER SAUCE.

Ingredients. — i good tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkins £ of a pint of white stock, £ of a pint of milk, i£ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs of flour, vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook the mixture for 6 or 7 minutes, then add the stock and milk. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, season with salt and pepper, add vinegar to taste, and the prepared gherkins. Serve with boiled mutton, or other dishes to which caper sauce forms an accompaniment. Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the stock. 388.— SWEDISH SAUCE.

Ingredients. — 2 raw yolks of eggs, 2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped mixed herbs, salad oil, tarragon vinegar, prepared mustard, salt and pepper.

Method. — Pass the hard-boiled yolks of eggs through a fine sieve. Stir the raw yolks with a wooden spoon in a small basin until thick and creamy, mix in the yolks, and add the salad oil, drop by drop, until the desired consistency is obtained, stirring briskly meanwhile. Add £ a teaspoonful of made mustard, the herbs, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste, and mix well. Stand on ice until required. Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. or 7d. Note. — This sauce is sometimes used for coating or masking purposes; in which case, £ a gill or so of aspic should be incorporated. 389.— TAMARIND SAUCE.

Ingredients. — Ripe tamarinds, sugar to taste.

Method. — Place the fruit in layers in a stone jar, sprinkling each layer slightly or liberally with sugar, according to taste. Cook in a cool oven until quite tender, then pass through a fine hair sieve, and when quite cold turn into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use.

Time. — About 4 hours.

390.— TOMATO SAUCE. (Fr.— Sauce Tomate.) Ingredients. — £ a pint of vinegar, 2 Ib. of tomatoes, i Spanish onion sliced, £ a Ib. of brown sugar, 3 ozs. of allspice, i oz. of black peppercorns, 2 ozs. of salt, £ of an oz. of cloves, ^ of a teaspoonful of cayenne. Method. — Put all the ingredients into a stewjar or saucepan, cover

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closely, and cook very gently for 2 hours. Pass through a fine hair sieve, let the puree remain until quite cold, then turn into small bottles, cork and seal securely, and store for use.

Time. — About 2^ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d.

391.— TOMATO ASPIC.

Ingredients. — \ a pint of tomato pulp, \ an oz. of gelatine (previously soaked in water), ^ a gill of aspic, and i tablespoonful of meat glaze.

Method. — Put the above named ingredients in a saucepan over the fire, stir until it boils, season to taste with salt and a pinch of cayenne pepper, strain the aspic through a cloth or fine sieve, and use as directed.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, about is. 3d.

392.— WORCESTER SAUCE.

Ingredients. — i pint of Bordeaux vinegar, 3 tablespoonfuls of walnut ketchup, 3 tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovy, 2 tablespoonfuls of Indian Soy, i teaspoonful of cayenne, 2 cloves of garlic finely-chopped. Method. — Put all the ingredients into a large bottle, cover closely, and shake well every day for a fortnight. At the end of this time it will be ready for use, but it may be stored for a length of time in wellcorked bottles.

Time. — 2 weeks. Average Cost, TS. 4d.

• Forcemeats.

Forcemeat, or Farcemeat, as it was originally called, derives its name from the French verb farcie, to stuff. In modern phraseology the term farce or forcemeat is applied equally to the simple and quickly made veal stuffing, the finely-pounded quenelle mixture (which is in no sense a stuffing), and the various farces used to cover sections of pigeons, cutlets, etc.

The consistency of forcemeat varies according to the purpose for which they are required. Those intended for stuffing may be moistened with milk instead of egg, and made much more moist than quenelles, which must retain their shape and be firm enough to support their own weight during the process of cooking.

The quantity of liquid necessary to thoroughly moisten, and the number of eggs required to stiffen the various substances, cannot bo stated exactly; but it is better to have a rough guide than none, and

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RECIPES FOR FORCEMEATS 281 when making quenelle mixtures, which must have a certain consistency, and yet retain the lightness which is one of their chief points of excellence, it is advisable to test the mixture by poaching a small quantity of it in boiling water. When too soft, another yolk of egg should be added, if eggs have been already used, or a few crumbs may be added to mixtures of which they already form a part.

The excellence of many simple forcemeats depends largely on flavourings and seasoning. In making them, it is a common error to use too little salt and pepper, and too few flavourings; it is much better to use a small quantity of several kinds than to allow one flavour to predominate. A comparatively large quantity of nutmeg may be used in \«M! forcemeat without its presence being detected; it is believed that its strength is in some manner used in developing the flavour of the substances with which it is mixed.

The liquid in which quenelles are poached must always be quite boiling, in order that the surface may immediately harden, and so help them to retain their shape.

393.— CHESTNUT FARCE FOR ROAST TURKEY.

Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of chestnuts, £ a pint of stock or water, i oz. of butter, a good pinch of sugar, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut off the tops of the chestnuts, and bake or roast them 0 minutes. Remove both the outer and inner skins, put the nuts into a stcwpan, add the stock (no more than will b.uvly cover them), and simmer until they become tender and dry. Rub through a fine sieve, add the butter, salt and pepper, and use as reTime.— About i hour. Average Cost, from;d. to 8d. without the 394--FARCE OF WHITING OR OTHER FISH.

Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of uncooked fish (two whitings), | of a pint of milk or fish stock. No. 5, 2 ozs. of flour, i oz. of butter, j pep] XT and salt.

Method.— Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the milk or stink, and cook until the panada ti.rms a o-mpuit mass round the bowl ot the spoon. Pound the fish and tin.- panada well together, add the eggs one by one, season well, and pass the ingredients through a A lighter mixture may be obtained when required by pounding 3 yolks with the fish and mixing the 3 whites (stiiily whipped after passing the mixture through the s:

Time. -About 35 minutes. Average Cost, about is. for this quantity.

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395.— FORCEMEAT FOR BAKED FISH. (Fr.

Farce de Huitres et d'Anchois.) Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of minced savou herbs, 8 oysters, 2 anchovies (these may be dispensed with), 2 ozs. suet, salt and pepper, pounded mace to taste, 6 tablespoonfuls of crcar or milk, the yolks of 2 eggs.

Method. — Beard and mince the oysters, prepare and mix the other ingredients, and blend the whole thoroughly together. Moisten with the cream and eggs, put all into a stewpan, and stir the mixture over the fire till it thickens. Stuff the inside of the fish with the preparation, and sew up the opening.

Time. — 4 or 5 minutes to thicken. Average Cost, lod. Sufficient for a moderate-sized pike.

396.— FORCEMEAT FOR SAVOURY PIES.

Ingredients. — % a Ib. of veal finely-chopped, £ of a Ib. of bacon finelychopped, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i dessertspoonful of finelychopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, £ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, i egg, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Method. — Mix the veal, bacon, breadcrumbs, parsley, herbs and lemonrind well together, and season to taste. Add the egg, which should thoroughly moisten the dry ingredients; if too small to do this, use a little milk or water in addition. Mix well, and use as required. Average Cost. — lod. to is. Sufficient for i large pie. 397.— HAM FORCEMEAT FOR VEAL, TURKEY, FOWL, HARE.

Ingredients. — 2 ozs. of ham or lean bacon, 4 ozs. of suet, 4 ozs. of bread crumbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ^ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, the grated rind of £ a lemon, a good pinch of nutmeg, a good pinch of mace, 2 eggs, or i egg and a little milk, salt and pepper. Method. — Chop the ham and suet finely. Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add the eggs, season to taste, mix well, and use as required. When the mixture is intended for balls, the consistency should be tested by poaching a small quantity in boiling water. Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, about 6d. for this quantity. 398,— LIVER FARCE (Fr.— Farce de Foie de Veau.) FOR QUAILS, AND OTHER BIRDS.

Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of calf's liver, 2 ozs. of lean veal, 3 ozs. of bacon, \ a very small onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i oz. of butter, the yolk of i egg, salt and pepper.

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RECIPES FOR FORCEMEATS Method. — Cut the liver, veal, and bacon into very small pieces, melt the butter in a saute-pan, put in the meat, onion, finely-chopped, bouquet-garni, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and fry 10 or 15 minutes. Pound in a mortar, rub through a wire sieve, add the yolk of egg, mix well, season to taste, and use as required. Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, lod. to is. 399.— LOBSTER FARCE FOR QUENELLES.

Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of lobster, £ of a pint of fish stock or milk, 2 ozs. of flour, i oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt, cayenne. Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, add the stock or milk, and cook until it leaves the sides of the saucepan clear and forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Chop the lobster finely, and pound it and the panada (flour mixture) well together in the mortar; add each egg separately, season to taste, pound thoroughly, and rub the mixture through a wire sieve. Stir in the cream, and the farce is ready for use. This mixture, being very light, is best steamed in small quenelle or dariol moulds. Average Cost, 2S. to 2S. 6d. for this quantity.

400.— OYSTER FORCEMEAT FOR ROAST OR BOILED TURKEY.

Ingredients. — 18 sauce oysters, £ a pint of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, £ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, a good pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, i egg, and a little milk if necessary (or oyster liqu< Method. — Beard the oysters, put any liquor from them into a saucepan, add the beards, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Cut the oysters into small pieces, mix with them the breadcrumbs, suet, herbs, nutmeg, and seasoning. Add the egg and sufficient milk or oyster liquor to thoroughly moisten the whole, and mix well. Press the farce lightly into the breast of the turkey.

Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, about is. 9d. for quantity. Sufficient for one turkey.

401.— PORK STUFFING.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of onions, 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs butter, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped sage or a teaspoonful of powdered sage, salt and pepper.

Method.- Cut the onions into slices, cover them with cold water, brin^ to the boil, cook for 5 minutes, then strain and drain well, the butter in a stewpan, and fry the onions for about 1 5 minutes without

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browning. Add the breadcrumbs, sage and seasoning, mix well, and use as required.

Average Cost. — 4(1. Sufficient for a leg or loin of pork. Note. — For other methods see "Sage and Onion Stuffing." 402.— QUENELLES, TO SHAPE.

To make quenelles a good shape it is necessary to use a knife and two dessertspoons, or smaller spoons when intended for soup. Dip one of the spoons in hot water to prevent the mixture sticking to it, fill it with the farce, press it from the sides, and raise it in the centre with the knife (previously dipped in hot water), making it a nice oval shape. Take the other spoon, dip it into hot water, pass the knife carefully round the edge of the quenelle, transfer it to the second spoon and shape as before. As the quenelles are shaped they should be placed in the saute pan, or stewpan, in which they are to be cooked. When ready, sufficient boiling stock or water to half cover them should be added, and the top of the quenelles must be covered with a sheet of greased paper to preserve the colour, and keep moist that part of the quenelles not under water.

403.— QUENELLES FOR SOUP.

Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of fillet of veal, \ of a pint of stock, \ an oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i egg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Melt the butter in a small saucepan, add first the flour and then the stock, stir and cook until the mixture forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Pass the veal 2 or 3 times through the mincing machine, or chop it finely. Pound the panada (or flour mixture) and the meat well together until smooth. Add the eggs separately, season to taste, and give the whole a good pounding. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, shape it into small quenelles by means of 2 egg spoons, and poach in a little hot stock until firm. Add them to the soup, and serve.

Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Co:t, 8d. to gd. 404.— SAGE AND ONION STUFFING. (For Roast Goose, Duck, Pork.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of onions, \ a pint of freshly-made bread crumbs, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped sage or a teaspoonful of powdered sage, 2 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the onions into dice, put them into cold water, bring to the boil, cook for 5 minutes, then strain and drain well. Melt the butter in a stewpan, and fry the onions for about 15 minutes without browning them. Add the breadcrumbs, sage, and seasoning, mix well,

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l;i>K roUCKMK.VIS Time. About \ an hour. Average Cost,;d. Sufficient lor i dinks.

405. -SAGE AND ONION STUFFING. (For roast Goose, Duck, and Pork.) Ingredients. 4 large onions, 10 sa^e haves, £ of a Ib. of breadcrumbs, t butter, salt and pepper to taste, i egg. Method.- Peel the onions, put them into boiling water, let them simmer for 5 minutes or rather longer, and, just before they out, put in the sage leaves for a minute or two to take off their rav. Chop both these very fine, add the bread, seasoning, and butter, and work the whole together with the yolk of an egg. when the stut'tir. ly for use. It should be rather highly seasoned, and shoulc finely chopped. Man lo not parlxtil the onions in the manner just stated, but merely use them raw, but the stuffing then i^ not nearly so mild. and. to many tafl -'mm; flavour would lonable. When made for goose, a portion of the livn of the bird, simmered 5 and very fmelv mm* ntly added to tin '1 where economy er may be div. ith.

Time. KatluT more than 5 mir \. Average Cost, fort::d. Sufficient for i go,, 406. -SAUSAGE FARCE. (For Stuffing Turkey.) Ingredients, j Ib. of lean poT.|,^p,,,,n' nibs. \ a.tul (»f •f the turkey finely choj)p.e«l. S;« Method. -Cut the pork into small pieces, and pass r through the mincing UK* to it the uml>s, r, seasoning, and '•••isten with little stock, and use.

Time to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is.;d. one turkey.

407.— SAVOURY OYSTER STUFFING.

I dessei t-|M,,,illul i li • •f butter. s,tlt,uld p, j.j.n Method. Me.ird the oysters, - ut it with the I h.Ml. Allow to ill the from the beards, then strain. Mix tot-etl od lemon.

: S chopp-.

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much of the oyster stock as will bring to the proper consistency. Use for stuffing fish or poultry.

Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for i goose. 408.— SOYER'S RECIPE FOR GOOSE STUFFING.

Method. — Take 4 apples, peeled and cored, 4 onions, 4 leaves of sage, 4 leaves of lemon thyme not broken, and boil them in a stewpan with sufficient water to cover them; when done, pulp them through a sieve, removing the sage and thyme; then add sufficient pulp of mealy potatoes to cause it to be sufficiently dry, without sticking to the hand; add pepper and salt, and stuff the bird.

LEMON THYME (Fr. thym), Thymus citridorus. is a variety of the familiar aromatic herb. It is a trailing evergreen of smaller growth than the garden thyme, and is remarkable for its smell, which resembles that of the rind of a lemon: hence its distinctive name. Lemon thyme is cultivated -in gardens for its fragrant odour, and is used for seasoning, and for some particular dishes, in which it is desired the fragrance of the lemon should slightly predominate. 409.— SUET FORCEMEAT.

Ingredients. — 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i good dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ^ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, $ of a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, i egg and a little milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add the egg and sufficient milk to slightly moisten the whole, season to taste, and use. Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d.

410.— TRUFFLE FORCEMEAT.

Ingredients. — \ Ib. of truffles (preferably fresh ones), \ a Ib. of veal, £ a Ib. of pork or bacon (fat and lean in equal parts), i finely-chopped shallot, i glass of sherry, salt and pepper.

Method. — Pass the veal and pork or bacon 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, or chop the meat very finely, pound in a mortar until quite smooth, then pass through a wire sieve. Chop the shallot and truffles finely, add them to the meat preparation, season to taste, and moisten with the sherry and a little stock, or liquor from the truffles when using bottled ones. Use as required.

Average Cost. — 6 to 8 shillings. Sufficient for i small turkey. 411.— VEAL FARCE FOR QUENELLES, ETC.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of fillet of veal, £ of a pint of stock, i oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 eggs, salt and pepper.

Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and the stock, stir and cook until the mixture forms a compact mass round the bowl

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RECIPES FOR FORCEMEATS 287 of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Pass the veal two or three times through the mincing machine, or chop it finely. Pound the panada (the flour mixture) and the meat well together until smooth. Add the eggs separately, season to taste, and give the whole a good pounding. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve, and use as required. Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 5d. without the stock. 412.— VEAL FARCE. (For Quenelles, etc.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of lean veal, | a Ib. of veal suet (finely chopped", 3 ozs. of soaked bread, 2 eggs, a little grated nutmeg, salt and pepper. Method. — Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine or chop it finely, then pound the suet and veal together in a mortar. Add the eggs one at a time, and the bread in small portions. Also add about £ of a pint of cold water, but before using the whole, poach a little of the mixture in boiling water to test the consistency; if too soft, add a little more bread; if too stiff, a little more water, shape into quenelles, as directed on page 283.

Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, is.

413.— VEAL FORCEMEAT. (Fr.— Farce de Veau.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of lean veal, \ of a Ib. of finely-chopped beef suet, 2 ozs. of fat bacon cut into fine strips, 2 tablespoonfuls of freshly-made breadcrumbs, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, 2 eggs, salt and pepper, a pinch of ground mace, a pinch of nutmeg.

Method. — Pass the veal twice through the mincing machine, then pound it and the suet and bacon well in the mortar. Pass through a wire sieve, add the rest of the ingredients, season to taste, and use. Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d for this quantity. 414.— VEAL FORCEMEAT. (Fr.— Farce de Veau.) Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of freshly-made breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of powdered thyme, £ of a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, i egg and a little milk, a good pinch of nutmeg, salt and Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add the egg and sufficient milk to thoroughly moisten the whole, season to taste, and use.

Time. — 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 3d. to 4d. for this

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4IS._WHITING FORCEMEAT. (Fr. — Farce de Merlan.) Ingredients. — I whiting, 2 oz. panada or soaked bread, i oz. butter, Pcchamel sauce (No. 177), i egg, cream.

Method. — Remove the meat from the whiting, pound it in a mortar, with 2 ozs. of panada and i oz. of butter, and rub all through a fine sieve. Put this preparation into a basin, and work in gradually i tablcspoonful of well-reduced cold Bechamel sauce, i whole egg, and i tablespoonful of cream. Season with pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. Test the farce or forcemeat before using, and if not sufficiently firm add another yolk of egg or a little panada. Use as directed.

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m i — C-ab 2 —Oyster. 3.— Eel. 4.— Mussel. 5.— Lemon Sole. 6.- Halibut. 7-Prawn. 8. -Sturgeon. o.-Trout. lo.-Sprat. i,. -Brill. la—Escallop. 13.— Lamprey. 14.— Whitebait. 15.— Lobster. 16.— Dover Sole.

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CHAPTER XI.

The Natural History— As an Article of Diet— To Choose — The Average Prices — General Directions for Preparing — General Instructions for In Natural History Fish form the lowest of the five classes into which the Vertebrata, or animals having a backbone, are divided. They may be broadly described as vertebrate animals living in water, and breathing the air contained in it by means of gills, which supply the place of lungs. Fish are furnished with a heart, which, except in the mud-fish consists of a single auricle and ventricle, and fins, which take the place of the limbs of animals higher in the scale of being. The blood-corpuscles are mostly red, and the Mood is termed " cold," from the circumstance that its temperature is very little, if any, higher than that of the surrounding water.

The adaptability of the li>h to the element in which it lives is seen in the body. In most cases the external shape offers the least possible friction in swimming, thus securing rapid locomotion. The body is, in general, slender, gradually diminishing towards each of its extremities, while it is also rounded on the sides, roughly resembling the lower part of a ship's hull, and enabling the fish, like the vessel, to penetrate and divide the resisting fluid with comparative ease. Owing to the great flexibility of the body in the water, the fish can with ease migrate thousands of miles in a season.

The Principal Organs employed by Fish to accelerate motion are their air-bladder, fins, and tail. The air-bladder, or " sound," is automatically in origin the same as a lung, but it does not perform the function of that organ. Its use is to enable the fish to rise or sink in the water. The air-bladder is a sac or bag filled with gas, chiefly oxygen in the case of sea-fish, and nitrogen in fresh-water species. When a fish wishes to sink, it compresses the muscles of the abdomen and ejects is from the air-bladder, thus increasing the weight of the body. When it desires to attend the abdominal muscles are rel.ixed. This causes the air-bladder to fill, and the fish then rises to the surt

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The Fins correspond to the limbs of other vertebrates. The " anterior," or first pair, are called the " pectoral " fins, and are analogous to the arms of man and the fore-limbs of other animals. The hindfins in fishes, known as " ventral " fins, are often wanting, and when present are less developed than the pectoral fins, and less fixed in their position. The "median" or "vertical" fins, situated on the back, are characteristic of fish, and extend more or less from the head to the tail. The fins of some fish are soft and flexible; in others rigid spines, or a combination of the two. By a wonderful mechanical contrivance the rigid spines can be raised or lowered at pleasure. In swimming, the fins enable fish to maintain their upright position, the centre of gravity being in their backs. The expansion and contraction of the fins enable a fish to ascend or descend in the water. The Tail is placed vertically, and strikes the water from side to side. It possesses great muscular power, and is the chief organ of progression in a fish. Its action is similar to that of the rudder of a ship, turning the body to the right or to the left. When moved with a quick vibratory motion it acts like a screw-propeller, the fish darting forward with a speed proportionate to the force exerted. Two very distinct types of tail are found. In the one, common to most fish, the tail is composed of two nearly equal lobes, and is termed " homocercal." In the other type, represented by the sharks and by many extinct forms, the upper lobe is much longer than the lower, the tail in this case being called " heterocercal."

The Bodies of Fish are mostly covered with horny scales; but in some, as the eel and carp, scales are altogether wanting, or exist in so minute a form as to be almost invisible. The scales preserve the fish from injury by the pressure or friction of the water, or the sudden contact with pebbles, rocks or seaweed. Where the scales are very minute or absent, the bodies, as in sand-fish, are covered with a mucous secretion, which answers the same purpose as scales. When thin, horny, flexible, circular or elliptical in shape, like those of the salmon or herring, the scales are called " cycloid." When in detached plates, sometimes furnished with projecting spines, as in the case of the shark, they are called " placoid." Thin, horny, flexible scales and comb-like projections on the hinder margin, like those of the perch, are termed " ctenoid." Bony scales overlaid with hard polished enamel, a type represented by the sturgeon, and by many fossil fish, are known as " ganoid."

The Respiration of Fish is aquatic, and is effected by the comb-like organs, branchiae, or gills, situated on each side of the neck. The gills are composed of delicate filaments, in which the blood is exposed to the aerating influences of the external water. The water, after being taken into the mouth by a process resembling swallowing, passes over the gills, where it gives up its oxygen, and is ejected from the

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gill-chambers by an aperture, the " gill-slit," placed at sides of the mouth behind the " gill-cover," an organ consisting of a chain of flat bones and a membrane. The oxygen, after passing through the gills, is driven through all parts of the body, and the venous and impure blood is forced by the action of the heart to the gills, where it is subjected to the action of the water. Oxygen is essential to the life of a fish, and suffocation results unless that gas is present in water. The teeth of fish are in the jaws, sometimes on the palate or tongue, and in some cases they are placed in the throat. They are usually sharppointed and fixed; in the carp they are obtuse, and in the pike they are easily moved. When lost or injured, the teeth of fish are replaced; they are not set in sockets, but are attached by a ligament to the bones of the mouth. In the herring the tongue is set with teeth, by means of which it more easily retains its food.

These two great Divisions formed the basis of the classification of the eminent naturalist, Cuvier, and may serve roughly to differentiate the various classes of fish which are now more scientifically grouped according to then- particular characteristics into six divisions, or four orders, if the classification of Agassiz, based on the structure of their scales, be followed. The true internal skeleton differs very widely among fish; in the case of one fish, the lancelet, a true skeleton scarcely exists, the backbone being replaced by a soft cellular rod. In some, for example, the lampreys, sturgeons and rays, it is cartilaginous; in others it is partly cartilaginous and partly bony; and in a great many, like the herring, perch, etc., it is entirely composed of bone. The backbone extends through the whole length of the body, and consists of vertebrae, strong and thick towards the head, but weaker towards the tail. Each species has a determinate number of vertebrae, which are increased in size in proportion to the body. The ribs are attached to the processes of the vertebrae, and enclose the breast and abdomen. Some fish, the rays, for instance, have no ribs; whilst others, like the sturgeon and eel, have them very short. Between the pointed processes of the vertebrae are situated the bones which support the dorsal (back) and the anal (below the tail) fins, which are connected with the processes by a ligament. At the breast are the sternum, or breastbone, clavicles, or collar-bones, and the scapullae, or shouder-blades, on which the pectoral or breast fins are placed. The bones which support the ventral or belly fins are called the ossa pelvis. Besides these principal bones, there are often smaller ones, placed between the muscles, which assist their motion.

The Organs of Sense. — The organs of sight, hearing, smelling, taste and touch are possessed in a higher or lower degree by fish. Those of taste and touch are the least developed. The filaments at the mouths of the cod, sturgeon and whiting are supposed to be organs of touch, and it is also thought that the " lateral line," running along the sides

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of most fish, is connected with the termination of certain nerves, and enables a fish coming into contact with any substance to feel its presence. The sense of taste is not very delicate, the tongue and palate being for the most part cartilaginous, and frequently set with teeth. Fish have no external organ of hearing, and the internal apparatus is partly free in the cavity of the skull, differing in this respect from that of birds and quadrupeds, while its structure is simpler than that of animals which live entirely in the air. In some genera, as in the rays, the external orifice or ear is very small, and is placed in the upper surface of the head, while in others there is no visible external orifice. The sight of fish is keen; the eye is large and flattened externally, and is furnished behind with a muscle which adjusts the focus to the requirements of the fish by lengthening or flattening the eye. It is in most cases covered with the same transparent skin which extends over the rest of the head, protecting the organ from the action of the water. The crystalline humour is almost globular. The organ of smelling is large, and consists of a double cavity lined by a mucous membrane folded into numerous plaits, into which water is admitted usually by two distinct apertures or nostrils. The nasal sacs are closed behind, and, except in the cases of the bog-fish and the mud-fish, do not, like the higher vertebrates, communicate with the throat. The sense of smell is the chief agent by which fish discover their food. The Food of Fish. — This is almost universally found in the water. Fish are mostly carnivorous, though they seize upon almost anything that conies in their way; they even devour their own offspring, and manifest a particular predilection for living creatures. Innumerable shoals of one species pursue those of another, with a ferocity which draws them from the pole to the equator, through all the varying temperatures and depths of their boundless domain. Many species must have become extinct, were not the means of escape, the production, and the numbers greater than the dangers to which they are exposed. The smaller species are not only more numerous, but more productive than the larger, whilst their instinct leads them in search of food and safety near the shores, where, from the shallowness of the waters, many of their foes are unable to follow them. The Fecundity of Fish is remarkable, and is especially noticeable in the sturgeon, salmon, cod, mackerel, flounder and herring, whose powers of reproduction are almost incredible. In general fish are oviparous, or egg-producing, the young being afterwards hatched; some few, like the eel arid the blenny, are viviparous, and produce their young alive. The viviparous species are not so prolific. The eggs in the roe of the shark are comparatively few, and each ovum before exclusion is provided with a horny sheath furnished with cirri, or filaments, by which it moors itself to a fixed object. Reproduction is effected by the milt of the male and the foe of the female fish. The majority of

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fish deposit their spawn in the sand or gravel; those inhabiting the depths oi the ocean attach their eggs to sea-weeds. The Longevity of Fish is said to exceed that of most animals, athough the age to which they attain is a matter of some dispute; there are, however, well authenticated instances of the great longevity of the carp. Fish are either solitary or gregarious, and some of them migrate to great distances, and into certain rivers, to deposit their spawn. Of sea-fish, the cod, herring, mackerel, and many others, assemble in immense shoals, and migrate through different tracts of the ocean. The supply of Fish in the Ocean may be considered to be practically inexhaustible, notwithstanding the excessive dredging, which has diminished the supply around the coasts of England and some other European countries. In various parts of the world fish constitutes the chief or only animal food of the people; but it is consumed more or less in most countries, and many prejudices have existed regarding its use. Fish was but little eaten by the Jews, and the Mosaic code interdicted the eating of fish destitute of scales and fins, although other kinds were not prohibited; and from the New Testament \\e know that several of the Apostles followed the calling of fishermen. Among the ancient Egyptians fish was an article of diet, but was not eaten by the priests.

Fish has been held in estimation as an article of diet in nearly every civilized country. Although Mcnclaus complains that the Homeric heroes had been compelled to live on fish, in later ages fish became one of the principal articles of food among the Greeks. Aristophanes and Athenaeus allude to it, and satirize their countrymen for their extreme fondness for turbot and mullet; and the latter author has left on record some valuable precepts on the ingenuity of the Greeks in seasoning fish with salt, oil and aromatics. The Roman epicures were especially fond of red mullet, which they esteemed the most delicate; the eel-pout and the liver of the lotas were also favourite dishes. It is stated that Apicius offered a prize to any one who could invent a new brine (marinade) compounded of the liver of red mullets; and that Lucullus, the famous epicure, constructed a canal in the neighbourhood of Naples for the ready transportation of fish to his garden. Hortensius, the actor, is said to have wept over a turbot which he had fed with his own hands; and the daughter of Drusus ornamented one that she -<ed with rings of gold. The French King, Louis XII, was an ardent lover of fish, and engaged six fishmongers to supply his table. Francis 1 had twenty-two fishmongers, while the requirements of Henry the Great necessitated the employment of twenty-four. In the time of Louis XIV cooks had become so skilful in their art, that trout, pike or carp were converted by them into the shape and flavour of the most delicious game. Large reservoirs and canals were erected in many parts, for the breeding of carp and other fish. Marie An-

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toinette kept her carp like the turbot of the Roman dame mentioned above, and also adorned her finny pet with a golden ring. In England, in the reign of Edward II, fish became a dainty, especially the sturgeon, which was made a " royal " fish, and was not permitted to appear on any table but that of the King. In the fourteenth century a decree of King John informs us that the people ate both seals and porpoises. The monks and noble landowners established in the Middle Ages extensive systems of ponds and canals for breeding fresh-water fish, so much in demand on fast days. Vestiges of these preserves are still to be seen in many parts of the country.

American terrapin soup is made from the flesh of various species of the fresh-water tortoises, many of which are natives of North America. They are distinguished by a horny beak or jaws with sharp cutting edges and limbs, having each of the five toes united by a web. They live on vegetables, reptiles, fish and other aquatic animals. The saltwater terrapin is abundant in the salt marshes of Charleston. The most esteemed species for culinary purposes is the chicken tortoise, socalled from the delicacy of its flesh.

FISH AS AN ARTICLE OF DIET.

Fish as Food. — As an article of nourishment, fish is less satisfying and less stimulating than butcher's meat. Hence it is valuable in the sick room, when stronger kinds of animal food are unsuitable for invalids. It is, however, a matter of common experience that in fishing-towns, where little or no other animal food is taken, the health and vigour of the inhabitants are excellent.

The amount of nourishment contained in fish varies with the species. Some of the red-fleshed fish are almost as nutritious as butcher's meat. Chief amongst these is salmon, once a principal article of food in this country. Every one has heard of the Scotch apprentices, in whose indentures it was customary to insert a clause to the effect that salmon should not be given them more than twice a week. In point of fact, the richness and peculiar flavour of this fish make it ill adapted for daily food.

The white-fleshed fish, such as whiting, sole, haddock, hake, cod and skate are less nourishing, but more digestible, and it is said that they do not so soon pall upon the appetite of those who live on fish. The whiting is best suited for invalids; and next, perhaps, come the sole, haddock and plaice. Cod, hake and skate are remarkably firmfleshed and fibrous, and even when in good condition, are somewhat difficult of digestion. The flesh of all these fish contains little fat; but in the liver, especially that of the cod-fish, oil accumulates in larger quantity. Fish oil is said to be more easy of digestion than any other kind of fat, and cod-liver oil is therefore commonly given to invalids. In other fish, with flesh more or less white, there is much fat in the tissues. Herrings, pilchards, sprats, eels, lampreys, mackerel are

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Tich, and likely to disagree with delicate persons. However, they are ^nourishing, and supplying, as they do, both fat and flavour at a small vcost, are very largely consumed by the poor. Herring is said to contain more nourishment and is cheaper than any other kind of fish Crimping is employed to increase the firmness of the flesh by contraction of the muscles, in the case of cod, skate, salmon, and some other species. The popular notion that fish must be crimped while it is alive is erroneous, but it must be done immediately after death, before RIGOR MORTIS has set in. It is said that crimped fish keeps fresh, longer than fish in its natural state.

TO CHOOSE FISH.

The first necessity for fish is that it should be fresh. Stiffness and rigidity of the flesh are a sure guide, for RIGOR MORTIS passes off in the course of time, and the flesh then becomes flabby. Ihe smell is not a sure guide if the fish has been kept in ice, for it may smell fresh, and yet change directly it is taken from the ice. The redness of the gills is a good indication, and the brightness of the eyes, which should not be sunken in the head. A proof of freshness and goodness in most fish is their being covered with scales; if the scales are deficient, the fish may be stale or they may have been damaged, and then they will not keep. In flat-fish the skin should be smooth and moist, and closely adherent to the flesh. It is a bad sign if the skin is blistered. Salmon, cod and the large fish generally should have a bronze tint when freshly cut. Turbot and brill should have yellowish flesh. Very large fish are not to be preferred, as they are probably old and tough. A flat fish should be thick in proportion to its size; all fish should have large girth rather than great length. In buying a slice of fish, it is better to choose a thick slice from a small fish than a thin slice from a large one.

The red-fleshed and oily fish cannot be eaten too soon after they are out of the water. If kept they should be cleaned and wiped very dry, and laid on ice, or on stones in a current of air, when ice cannot be obtained. The larger fish can be hung up by the gills. They can be parboiled, and so kept for a day or two.

Turbot, brill, dory, and some other cartilaginous white-fleshed fish may be kept for a day or two with advantage. A turbot must always be hung up by the tail until it is ready to be cooked. White fish can be rubbed over with salt, and so kept for a day or two; but fish loses nourishment and quality in the process, which should only be resorted to when absolutely necessary. Fish that is not quite fresh can be improved by thorough washing in vinegar and water, or permanganate of potash and water. It is afterwards better fried than, boiled, but no dressing will entirely conceal its quality.

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Fish in Season. — Fish should be not only fresh, but of good quality and in season. Dr. Pavy says: " The quality of fish as an article of food is influenced by the act of spawning, and presents considerable variations at different periods. It is just previous to spawning that the animal is in its highest state of perfection. Its condition altogether is then at its best point. The animal is fatter than at any other period, and of a richer flavour for eating. During the process of spawning its store of fatty matter is drawn upon, and it becomes poor, thin, watery and flabby. It is now said to be ' out of season,' and requires time to arrive in condition again. In fish like the cod, where the fatty matter accumulates, specially in the liver, this organ presents a most striking difference in volume and condition before and after spawning; whilst in such fish as the salmon, herring, etc., where the fat is dispersed amongst the flesh, it is the body which affords the chief evidence of change. As salmon enters the rivers from the sea for the purpose of depositing its spawn, it is plump and well provided with fat. On its return, the contrast in its condition is very great. It is now so exhausted and thin as to be looked upon as unfit for food." When fish is out of season the flesh is bluish in colour, and lacks firmness in texture. It does not become flaky and opaque in boiling, and there is none of the coagulated albumen, or curdy matter, between the flakes. The boiling has something to do with this appearance as well as the season.

Fish out of season can often be bought at a low price, but it is never cheap. Some few fish are sold all the year round; but for many there is a close time, during which they may not be killed or sold under penalty. Any one who sells fresh salmon between September 3 and February i is bound to prove that it was caught out of the United Kingdom; and, failing that, is liable to a fine of £2. A good deal of Norwegian salmon is brought to London. Even salted and dried salmon must have been cured out of the country or before the close season began. Trout is out of season for four months from October. In Scotland there is no close time for trout, which is protected in England and Wales between October 2 and February i. Other fresh-water fish are protected from March 15 to June 15, by a law passed in 1878, but they form so small a part of the national food supply that few persons notice their absence from the stalls of the fishmonger. Eels arc by far the commonest of fresh-water fish. Large quantities are caught in the Lincolnshire water-courses and Norfolk Broads, and 800 tons are said to be imported annually into the United Kingdom from Holland, but much of these last are used for bait. • The quality of fish depends very much on the nature of their food. As a rule, fish caught in the open sea are preferable to those living off headlands or in an inland sea, with slow current and shallow water. Cod is not only better in the coldest weather, but it is never so good as when it is caught in the extreme northern latitudes. A cheap fish,

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i. Steamed Sole. 2. Boiled Mackerel. 3. Boiled Turbot.

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[. Fillets of Sole, Horley Style. 2. Fillets of Sole with Parsley Sauce. 3. Lobster Cream.

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good of its kind, is always very much to be preferred to an expensive fish of inferior quality.

FYesh-water fish vary according to the nature of the water in which they have lived. When taken from a muddy stream, or in any stagnant water, they are often scarcely eatable; while those of the same species from deep, clear streams with a gravelly bottom have an excellent flavour. This is especially true of eels. All such fish are greatly improved by being kept in fresh water, and carefully fed for a few days before they come to table.

Preserved Fish. — Various methods are resorted to for preserving fish. It is dried, smoked, salted, put up in oil; or a combination of these methods is used, the object being to remove moisture or to exclude air. Of tinned fish we have spoken in another chapter. The fish that are most easily preserved are those rich in oil and of firm fibre. All fish lose nourishing power by being salted, and salt cod is said to be the least nourishing of foods commonly eaten.

Shell-fish are as a rule difficult of digestion, owing to the toughness and hardness of the flesh. The Crustacea commonly eaten are the lobster, crab, crayfish, shrimp, and prawn. Of these, shrimps are the least esteemed, and are sold at a low price. Prawns are sought after for garnishing, and, generally speaking, are the dearest of all fish. The crayfish is less common in this country than in France, where it is employed to make the celebrated Bisque soup, and also largely for garnish.

Of the bivalve shell-fish, oysters have the best reputation, both for flavour and digestibility, and are for that reason given to invalids. Cooking, especially at a great heat, hardens them, and so renders them less digestible. The old saying is that oysters are in season when there is an " r " in the month, i.e., from September to April, but so many foreign oysters are now in the market that they are sold all Unround. Mussels have been known to produce poisonous effects, but the cause is not clearly known; possibly it is due to the nature of their food. Scallops are a comparatively cheap and not unpalatable food. XVhelks, periwinkles, cockles and limpets are eaten in enormous numbers by the poorer classes, but are seldom cooked except by boiling. Reptiles as food. — The green turtle is the only reptile that we appreciate as a food, though many reptiles are eaten in different parts of the world. Turtles sometimes weigh six or seven hundred lb., and are imported into, and kept, in this country alive. Sun-dried turtle, sold in pieces, is much cheaper than, and is a good substitute for, fresh turtle. Tinned turtle is also sold, and extract of turtle is recommended for invalids. These preparations can be bought in small quantities, and are within the reach of many who could not procure fresh turtle soup.

The edible frog (rana esculenta) is esteemed in many parts of Europe, but has never been appreciated by English people. Only the hind legs are eaten.

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GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR PREPARING FISH.

In Preparing Fish of any kind, the first point to be attended to is to see that it is perfectly clean. It is a common error to wash it too much, as by doing so the flavour is diminished. The best way to clean fish is to wipe it thoroughly with a clean damp cloth. If the fish is to be boiled, a little salt and vinegar should be put into the water, to give it firmness, after it is cleaned. In consequence of the amount of oil certain fish contain, their liver and roes take longer to cook than the flesh, and should be put into the saucepan before the fish if not cooked separately. Fish, except salmon, should be put into warm water, and cooked very gently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done. Hot water should not be poured ON to the fish, as it is liable to break the skin; if it should be necessary to add a little water whilst the fish is cooking, it ought to be poured in gently at the side of the vessel. The fish-plate may be drawn up, to see if the fish be ready, which may be known by its easily separating from the bone. When done, it should be immediately taken out of the water, or it will become woolly. The fish-plate should be set crossways over the kettle, to keep hot for serving, and a cloth laid over the fish to prevent its losing its colour. The exact temperature of the water, at the time of placing the fish in the kettle, depends on the kind of fish to be cooked. If it is too hot the skin breaks, and if it is cold much of the flavour is lost Fish can scarcely cook too slowly; steaming is often better than boiling.

Fish to be fried or broiled must be dried on a soft cloth, after it is well cleaned and washed. Prior to frying, dip it lightly in flour, brush it over with egg, and cover it with some fine crumbs of bread. The fish after it is fried must be thoroughly drained and freed from fat. A sheet of white paper must be placed to receive it, in order that the superfluous greece is absorbed. It must also be of a beautiful colour, and all the crumbs appear distinct. Butter in frying gives a bad colour to fish; lard and clarified dripping are most frequently used, but oil is considered the best. The fish should be put into the fat or oil when as hot as enough to immediately harden the surface. There should be sufficient fat to well cover it. When fish is broiled, it must be seasoned, floured, and laid on a very clean gridiron, which, when hot, should be rubbed with a bit of suet, to prevent the fish from sticking. It must be broiled over or before a very clear fire, that it may not taste smoky; and not too near, that it may not be scorched. Fish may also be baked, stewed, and made into soups. In choosing fish, it is well to remember that it is possible it may be fresh and yet not good. In this work rules are given for the choice of each particular fish, and the months when it is in season. Nothing can be of greater consequence to a cook than to have the fish good, as, if this important course in a dinner does not give satisfaction, it is rarely that the repast goes off well.

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Keeping Fish. — When fish is cheap and plentiful, and a larger quantity is purchased than is immediately wanted, the overplus of such as will bear it should be potted, or pickled or salted, and hung up; or it may be fried, that it may serve for stewing the next day. Fresh-water fish having frequently a muddy smell and taste, should be soaked in strong salt and water, after it has been well cleaned. If of a sufficient size, it may be scalded in salt and water, and then dried and dressed. Cod-fish, whiting and haddock are none the worse for being a little salted and kept a day; and unless the weather be very hot, they will be good for two days.

Garnishing Fish requires great nicety. Plenty of parsley, horseradish, lobster coral and lemon should be used. It fried parsley be used it must be washed and picked, and thrown into fresh water. When the lard or dripping is hot enough, squeeze the parsley dry in a cloth, and throw it into the saucepan. It will bubble a good deal, and, therefore, it is better to lift the pan from the fire. In a few seconds the parsley will be green and crisp, and must be taken up with a slice, if there is no frying-basket. Well dressed, and with very good sauce, fish is, by the generality of people, more appreciated than almost any other dish. The liver and roe, in some instances, should be placed on the dish, in order that they may be distributed in the course of serving; but to each recipe is appended the proper mode of serving and garnishing. AVERAGE PRICES OF FISH.

Many fail to realize the great loss by bone and uneatable matter there is in most fish, and how much they pay for actual food obtained.

As a general rule it should be borne in mind that, allowing for bone, waste and loss of weight by different modes of cooking, only about £ the original weight of the fish is left.

By consulting the following table it will be seen that such fish as soles and smelts are very expensive, but some of the highest priced fish or parts of fish are not always the dearest. Thus, for example, a pound of flounders can be bought forsd., but, by reason of the large amount of bone they contain, they cost more than a pound of eels at iod., while the so-called cheaper parts of salmon, yielding so much less actual eatable matter, are in reality not so economical as the best. Nothing is more difficult than to give the average prices of fish and no other article of food varies so in price, inasmuch as a few hours of bad weather at sea will, in the space of one day, cause such a difference in its supply, that the same fish — a turbot, for instance — which may be bought to-day for six or seven shillings, will to-morrow be, in the London markets, worth, perhaps, almost as many pounds. The housewife when about to buy fish will be well advised not to set out with the fixed intention of buying a certain kind of fish, but to be guided in her selection by the state of the market. Often she will

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find that some particular fish is scarce, and that in consequence it is priced far beyond its worth, and quite out of comparison with the prices of other kinds of fish which are plentiful in the market. The average costs, therefore, which will be found appended to each recipe, must be understood as about the average price for the different kinds of fish under normal conditions, and when the various sorts are of an average size and quality. The seasons for fish also slightly vary with the year, it sometimes happening, for instance, that salmon is at its cheapest and best a little earlier or later than usual. Oysters, however, always come in and go out at the same time, for. from April and May to the end of July oysters are said to be sick, but by the end of August they become healthy, having recovered from the effects of spawning. When they are not in season the males have a black and the females a milky substance in the gill. The average prices of fresh water fish are not given. They are rarely quoted in the open market, and are entirely influenced by local conditions. NAME OF FISH.

HOW USUALLY COOKED.

Cod ^iiivio* io.'>?-Hjqa ' Fried or Boiled • •/& Cod (head and sh'ld'rs ) Boiled.., ff t,, (steaks).

Conger Eel... •• «| Crab.. f...

Fried or Boiled..

Stewed iCVlfJ^ 30AH3 Usually sold cooked. 4tl. per Ib.

3d. to 33. each.

Pels rr ™S7.rfj.'. Fried or stewed; ^}lod. to is. per Ib.

Flounders i^f.'^.^.. Fried. ihuttt v,.

Gurnet Haddock [j,. ^^ bni Hake Boiled or baked,..^4? 8d. to is. per doz.

John Dory. •£rft«no&4 Filleted..,.- //8f Boiled.. f..

Usually sold cooked. Mackerel Jlll '.' ".'. Mullet (red) '^-T \<f (<>rev).

Boiled or broiled. <or.r Fried.... • f <vi Fried., *> • ^,->;.-J,H is. to is. 6d. per Ib. lod. per Ib.

Mussels.;;f;r..f.)iv fin[] Plaice. •/•tfjwnoncR* Boiled or fried. • l* 4* 2d. per quart, fid. to 2S. 6d. per doz. 6cl. per Ib.

is 3d per pint and Salmon (head),„.. (middle),.

„ (tail)..' V1 Shad "rv? •'•'-' Boiled, j:(»«.'rnli'tii"'^l Fried.."*.. 'f Boiled.... JfV Boiled. >\ '!'">. "'•'«? 'ttf from is. per doz.

is. 4d. to 2S. per Ib. is. 3d. to 2S. per 11>. is. lod. to 2S. 6d. per Ib. Skate. >n«m.>.

Boiled or fried. /. -e 6d. per Ib. Smelts if fff Fried is. 6d. per box.

Soles f fija F M *rf Trout. ' '•' • ' • « Boiled or fried... is. to 2S. 6d. per Ib. is. to 2S. per 11).

Turhot. JJT(.'.*3. 1 '-oiled -'-Ti •'-.'••'.. 8d. to is. per Ib.

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GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR COOKING FISH.

FreshWater Fish. — Of the various ways in which fresh-water fish may be cooked, boiling is the least suitable. Many varieties lack flavour, others have peculiarities which render them disagreeable to some persons, and should therefore be disguised by a liberal use of seasonings, flavourings and sharp sauces.

Fish to Boil. — In boiling fish it is advisable to use a fish-kettle, provided with a strainer, so that the fish can be gently lifted without breaking. Failing this, the fish should be tied in muslin, and placed on a plate at the bottom of a saucepan. Salmon and salmon trout should be put into boiling salted water, to preserve their colour; but other kinds of fish should be placed in warm water, for boiling water has a tendency to break the skin, and cold water extracts much of the flavour. Fish should always be gently simmered after boiling point is reached, otherwise it is liable to break. It should also be cooked in the smallest possible quantity of water, which, when practicable, should afterwards form the basis of a fish soup or fish sauce. Lemon- juice or vinegar should be added to the water in which white fish is cooked, as it tends to increase its whiteness. The time required for cooking depends more on the thickness than the weight of the fish, but as soon as the bone separates readily, the fish should be taken from the water and kept covered, on the strainer, placed across the fish-kettle, until required. Fish, when boiled, should always be served on a strainer covered with a folded napkin. It is usually garnished with slices of lemon and tufts of green parsley, a little additional colour being sometimes introduced by means of lobster coral, prawns or crayfish.

Fish to Broil. — This method of cooking is an extremely simple one when proper appliances are at hand, but when the only means available are those usually found in middle-class kitchens, some little difficulty may be experienced. A clean gridiron and a clear fire are indispensable factors, and the former may be easily secured by heating the gridiron, and afterwards rubbing it repeatedly with soft paper until perfectly clean. No matter how clear and bright the fire may appear, more or less smoke will arise from it, but this may be checked to some extent by throwing on a good handful of salt. Fish intended for grilling should be thoroughly dried, then brushed over with oil or oiled butter, and seasoned with salt and pepper. Meat also needs to be slightly coated with oil or butter, otherwise the surface may become dry. The gridiron must be heated and rubbed over on both sides with suet or fat, to prevent whatever is being cooked sticking to it. For the same reason it is necessary to move the meat or fish occasionally, using meat-tongs or a knife for the purpose, thus avoiding making holes through which the juices could escape. Delicate fish is frequently enclosed in oiled paper, and should then be served in the paper in which it was cooked.

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Fish, to Cure. — Empty, wash and scale the fish, and, if large, cut it down the back. Rub it inside and out with common salt, and let it hang in a cool place for 24 hours. Mix together i oz. of bay-salt, % an oz. of saltpetre, £ an oz. of brown sugar, and rub the fish well with the preparation. Place it on a large dish, cover it lightly, but completely, with salt, and allow it to remain undisturbed for 48 hours. Turn the fish over, cover it with fresh salt, and let it remain for 24 hours longer. Drain and well dry the fish, stretch it on sticks, and keep it in a dry, cool place. When kept for a great length of time, it will be necessary to well soak the fish before cooking. Fish, to Fillet. — The skin must be removed from both sides of a sole before filleting, but the dark skin on the under side of a sole is nearly always removed by the fishmonger. Plaice is frequently filleted without removing the skin, although it is better to strip the dark skin off the back. Whiting and haddocks are usually skinned, while mackerel are very seldom skinned before being filleted. When the fish has been washed, dried and skinned, it should be placed flat on a board or table, and with the point of a knife cut from head to tail down the backbone. Next, insert the knife in the slit made, and carefully separate the fish from the bone, keeping the knife pressed lightly against the bone meanwhile. Remove the fillets, trim them neatly, and cut them into pieces convenient for serving. Fish, to Fry. — Fish to be fried should be well dried after washing, and it is usually cut into pieces convenient for serving. Although very good results can be obtained by such simple means as a frying-pan and a very small quantity of fat — providing the fat be hot and the fish dry and slightly floured — a deep pan containing sufficient fat to completely cover the fish is desirable. Before frying, the fish should either be dipped into well-seasoned batter or coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and in the latter case it should first be rolled in a little flour seasoned with salt and pepper, the object being to make it as dry as possible, in order that the breadcrumbs may adhere more firmly. The fat should be very hot at all times, but its temperature must be slightly lower when frying fillets of fish than when frying such things as croquettes, rissoles, etc., which are generally composed of cooked materials. When the surface of a small piece of bread immediately hardens and slightly changes its colour on being immersed in the fat, the temperature is right for raw materials or anything that is thickly coated with batter, but when frying anything of which the exterior alone has to be cooked, it is better to have the fat sufficiently hot to at once brown whatever is immersed in it. Small things are nearly always fried in a wire basket, but fillets of fish are dropped into the fat, and when cooked, taken out on a fish slice. Anything fried should afterwards be well drained, either on a cloth or kitchen paper. Fish is usually garnished with lemon and parsley, croquettes and other dishes of the same

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class with parsley alone, while fruit fritters should be liberally sprinkled with sugar before serving.

Oil may be strongly recommended for frying, but clarified fat, is more generally employed in ordinary households, and for all frying purposes is preferable to lard, which is apt to impart an unpleasant fatty flavour. All fat after being used for frying should be allowed to cool slightly, and afterwards strained into an earthenware vessel. Or, after repeated use, it may be partially purified by straining it into a basin of boiling water, when fragments of fish, breadcrumbs, etc., will sink to the bottom, and may be scraped off as soon as the fat hardens.

Fish, to Salt. — The following method of salting fish is particularly suited to herrings, mackerel, and other small varieties. Choose fish that is perfectly fresh, empty, scale and clean, but do not wash them. Make a brine sufficiently strong to float an egg, put in the fish, which should be completely covered, and let them remain in the brine for 18 hours. When ready drain well, place them in layers in an earthenware vessel, covering each layer thickly with salt. Cover closely to completely exclude the air, and store in a cool, dry place. The fish must be well soaked before cooking.

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CHAPTER XII.

416.— ANCHOVIES, FRIED. (Fr.— Anchois Frits.) Ingredients. — 12 anchovies. For the batter: 3 ozs. of flour, £ of a pint of tepid water, i tablespoonful of salad-oil, or clarified butter, the white of i egg, frying-fat.

Method. — Wipe the anchovies with a dry cloth. Sieve the flour, and mix it into a smooth batter with the water and salad oil. Whip the white of egg stiffly, and stir it lightly into the batter. Have ready a deep pan of hot frying-fat; dip the anchovies carefully into the batter, drop them into the hot fat, and fry until they acquire a golden-brown colour. This dish is more suitable for a breakfast dish, HORS D'OEUVRE, or savoury, than a dish to be served in the fish course of a dinner. Time. — ^ an hour. Average Cost, for this quantity, lod. Sufficient for 2 or 3 if treated as a fish course, but enough for 6 or 7 if served as HORS D'OEUVRE, or savoury. Seasonable all the year. THE ANCHOVY (Fr. anchois) is a small fish belonging to the Clupeidae or herring family. It frequents the Mediterranean, the waters of the French and Dutch coasts, and the English Channel. It was known to the Greeks and Romans, and esteemed by them as a delicacy. The anchovy fishery is carried on during the months of May, June and July, the spawning season. Various sauces and condiments are made from this fish.

4 1 7. — BARBEL. (Fr. — Barbeau. ) Ingredients. — i or 2 barbel, according to size, 2 anchovies, 2 onions (sliced), 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, i tablespoonful of salt, the juice of a lemon, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), mace and nutmeg to taste.

Method. — Soak the fish in slightly salted water for 2 or 3 houi Put into a fish-kettle with warm water and the salt, and boil gentl until done. Take i pint of the water, and add to it the otl ingredients enumerated above. Simmer gently for about 15 minut< then strain, and return to the saucepan. Put in the fish, and let heat gradually in the sauce, but it must not boil again. Time. — Altogether, i hour. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable frc September to February.

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RECIPES FOR COOK IN(; FISH 30$ THE BARBEL (Tr.barbeau).— This fish takes its name from the four filaments or barbules which fringe its mouth and serve as the organ of touch. In form and habits it much resembles the pike. The Mich is rounded and elongated on its upper part, is olive-coloured and bluish on the sides; the tail is of a purple tint. By means of its upper jaw, which is much longer than the lower, the barbel is enabled to burrow in the mud for worms and other food. It is common to most nvers, and is abundant in the upper reaches of the Thames. The texture of its flesh is coarser than that of the carp. Barbel and other fish inhabiting muddy waters should always be soaked in water, slightly salted, for some time before cooking. If kept alive in clear water and fed with a little bran:ueal the flavour is greatly improved.

418.— BLOATERS, BROILED.

Ingredients. — Bloaters.

Method. — Break off the head, split the back, remove the roe, and take out the backbone. Place the fish, inside down, on a gridiron, cook until they are nicely browned, then turn them over, and cook the back. Or, if preferred, place 2 bloaters, the insides together, on a gridiron, and broil over a clear fire. The roes should be cooked and served with the bloaters.

Time. — 7 minutes. Average Cost, i|d. each. Seasonable from September to February.

419.— BREAM, BROILED. (Fr.— Breme Grille.) Ingredients. — Bream, anchovy or other fish sauce.

Method. — Empty, wash and thoroughly dry the fish, but do not scale it. Broil over a clear fire until thoroughly cooked and nicely browned, then serve with anchovy, or other fish sauce. Time. — To broil, about | an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to is. per Ib. Allow 6 to 8 oz. per head. Seasonable all the year. THE CHAR (Fr. umble).— This is r fish of the same genus as the salmon, and is much esteemed. It is plentiful in the deeper lakes of England. Wales and Ireland. It also occurs in European lak neva being especially celebrated for its char, called the omkrc cktvalier. The char, which somewhat resembles the trout, but 1 more slen<l• a lighter hue, and is coloured with crimson and w! • colours varying with the season. When spa wi.; r winter, it ascends the rivers. 420.— BREAM, BAKED. (Fr. — Breme cuit au four.) Ingredients. — Bream, fish forcemeat, No. 415, fat for basting, anchovy or other fish sauce.

Method. — Empty, wash and dry the fish, but do not scale it. Make the forcemeat as directed, stuff the inside of the fish, and sew up the opening neatly. Bake in a moderate oven from 40 to 50 minutes, basting occasionally with sweet dripping. Serve with anchovy or other fish sauce. If preferred, the forcemeat may be omitted, and the fish wrapped in buttered paper and baked slowly for about | an hour. Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, from 8d. to is. per Ib. Allow 6 to 8 ozs. per head. Seasonable all the year. 42 1.—BRILL A LA CONTE. (Fr — Barbue a la Conte. ) Ingredients.— A brill weighing about 2| Ib., i£ pints of stock, i of Burgundy, a tcaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, salt and pepper.

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Method. — Clean and skin the fish, and cut some slits down the back. Add the wine, salt and pepper to the stock; when warm put in the fish, and simmer gently until done. Take up the fish and keep it hot; boil the stock rapidly until reduced to half its original quantity, then add the parsley, and pour over the fish.

Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost. — 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable from August to April.

To CHOOSE BRILL.— The flesh of this fish, like that of turbot, should be of a yellowish tint, and should be chosen on account of its thickness. If the flesh has a bluish tint, it is not good. 422.— BRILL. (Fr.--Barbue.) Ingredients. — i brill, salt and vinegar to taste. Method. — Clean the brill, cut off the fins, and rub it over with a little lemon-juice to preserve its whiteness. Barely cover the fish with warm water, add salt and vinegar, and simmer gently until done (about 10 or 15 minutes for a small fish). Garnish with cut lemon and parsley, and serve with one of the following sauces: lobster sauce, shrimp sauce, Hollandaise sauce, or melted butter.

Time. — From 10 to 20 minutes, according to size. Average Cost, from 8d. to lod. per Ib. Seasonable at any time, but best from August to April.

THE BRILL (Fr. barbue) is a species of " flat-fish," belonging to the same genus as the turbot, which it resembles, but distinguished from it by the perfect smoothness of its skin and its less breadth. It is sandy-coloured or reddish-brown on its upper side, with yellowish or reddish spots. The brill averages about 7 Ib. in weight, and is esteemed as a table-fish. 423. -CARP, BAKED. (Fr.— Carpe Farcie.) Ingredients. — i carp. For the forcemeat: 8 sauce oysters, 3 anchovies boned, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, i shallot finely-chopped, yolk of i egg, cayenne, salt. For coating the fish: i egg and breadcrumbs. For the sauce: £• of a pint of good stock, i oz. of butter, i tablespoonful of flour, half a tablespoonful of Worcester sauce, a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, a teaspoonful of made mustard. Butter for basting.

Method. — Clean and scale the fish; remove the beards of the oysters, and simmer them for 15 minutes in a little fish stock or water. Cut the oysters into small pieces, but do not cook them; also cut the anchovies into very small pieces. Mix breadcrumbs, oysters, anchovies, parsley, shallot and seasoning, add the yolk of egg, the liquor of the oysters, and the stock in which the oyster-beards were simmered. Put the forcemeat inside the fish, and sew up the opening; brush over with egg, and cover with breadcrumbs. Place in a baking-dish and cook gently for about i hour, basting frequently with hot butter. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the stock, and stir until the sauce boils. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the mustard, lemon-juice, Worcester sauce, and the gravy (strained) from the tin in which the fish cooked. Garnish the fish with cut lemon and parsley, and serve the sauce in a tureen.

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Time. — From i| to i£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from November to March.

ic. — The fish may also be stuffed with ordinary veal forcemeat. THE CARP (Fr. carpe). — This species of fresh water fish, which forms the special type of the family Cyprinidae to which the barbels, tenches and breams belong, occurs throughout Europe, and frequents fresh and quiet waters and slow-running rivers. It feeds chiefly on worms and aquatic plants. During the winter it buries in the mud. The mouth of the carp is small, the jaws toothless, the body smooth and of an olive-green and yellowish colour, and arched and compressed, the scales large; the gills are formed of three flat rays, and there is but one dorsal fin. The carp is one of the earliest known fish in England. It was much preserved in ponds by the monks, for table use. The carp is very prolific and attains to a great age — to too years and even longer. The flavour of the carp is influenced by the character of its habitat. The well-known gold fish (Cyprinus auratus), supposed to be a native of China, is allied to the common carp. 424.— CARP, BAKED. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — i carp, 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, or clarified butter, i tablespoonful of Worcester sauce, i tablespoonful of lemon- juice, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i dessertspoonful of finelychopped onion, salt, cayenne. For the sauce: J of a pint of milk, 1 1 ozs. of flour, 1 1 ozs. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of coarsely-chopped gherkins, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash, scale, and clean the fish, and place it in an earthenware baking-dish. Mix together the salad-oil, Worcester sauce, lemon-juice, parsley, onion, season well with salt and cayenne, pour this mixture over the fish, and let it remain in it for at least 2 hours, basting at frequent intervals. Cover with a greased paper; bake gently for about i hour, and baste well. When it is nearly done, melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk, bring to the boil, and simmer for 5 or 6 minutes. Place the fish on a hot dish, strain the gravy in the tin into the sauce, add the gherkins, season to taste, and pour over the fish.

Time. — To bake, i hour. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from November to March.

425.— CARP, FRIED. (Fr.— Carpe Frite.) Ingredients. — i carp of medium size, butter or fat for frying, vinegar salt and pepper, flour.

Method. — Soak the fish i hour in salt and water, then split it open, lay it flat, and REMOVE THE GALL-STONE FROM THE HEAD. Dry well, sprinkle with salt and cayenne, dredge with flour, and fry in hot butter or fat until nicely browned. Garnish with cut lemon and the roe fried, and serve with anchovy sauce, No. 288.

Time. — To cook, from 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable from November to March. 426.— CARP, FRIED. (Fr.— Carpe Frite.) (Another Ingredients. — i carp, 2 ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped

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onion, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, i good pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper, 2 lemons, flour, fry ing-fat.

Method. — Wash and clean the fish, and cut it into fillets of convenient size for serving. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the onion, parsley, herbs, mace, the juice of £ lemon, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Have the fillets of fish as dry as possible, put them into the stewpan 2 or 3 at a time, and fry them very gently for 10 or 15 minutes. Drain well, and when cool dredge with flour mixed with a little salt and pepper, and fry in hot fat or butter until nicely browned. Garnish with slices of lemon, and serve with cut lemon.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 23. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from November to March.

427. — CARP, Stewed. (Fr. — Carpe en Ragout.) Ingredients. — i large carp, i pint of stock, i glass of claret, i tablespoonful of flour, 12 small button mushrooms, 2 ozs. butter, 2 or 3 small onions, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a good pinch of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the fish in vinegar and water, and cut it into thick slices. Slice the onions, fry them until brown in about 2 ozs. of hot butter, then put in the stock, wine, mushrooms, herbs, nutmeg and seasoning, and, when warm, add the fish, and simmer gently for 30 or 40 minutes. Take out the fish and keep it hot. Have ready the flour and the remainder of the butter kneaded to a smooth paste, add it to the contents of the stewpan, and simmer and stir until the sauce is cooked smoothly. Place the fish on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and garnish with the mushrooms (heated in sauce), fried roe, and sippets of Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March.

Note. — This fish can be boiled plain, and served with parsley and butter sauce. Chub, char, dace and roach may be cooked in the same manner as the above.

THE CHUB (Fr. chabol) resembles the carp, but is somewhat longer. It is found in most English rivers; the body is oblong and nearly round, bluish-black on the upper parts, and silvery white beneath, the head and gill-covers are yellow. The flesh is somewhat coarse, and is not nindi rstc.Miu d as a table-fish; the head and throat are the best parts. There are allied American species of the same name. The scales of the chub were formerly used in in-laying work. 428.— COD. (Fr.— Cabillaud.) Cod may be boiled whole; but a large head and shoulders are quite sufficient for a dish, and contain all that is usually served, because, when the thick part is done, the tail is insipid and overdone. The latter, however, cut in slices, makes a very good dish for frying, or it may be salted and served with egg sauce and parsnips. Cod, when

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boiled quite fresh, is watery; salted a little, it is rendered firmer. The liver is considered a delicacy, and a piece should, if possible, be bought and cooked with the fish.

429.— COD, CURRIED. (Fr— Cabillaud au Kari.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of cod, i pint of white stock (fish or meat), 2 ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of flour, i dessertspoonful of curry-powder, i medium-sized onion, salt and pepper, cayenne, a tablespoonful of Method. — Wash and dry the cod, and cut it into pieces about iV inches square. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the cod slightly, then take out and set aside. Add the sliced onion, flour, and currypowder to the butter in the stewpan. and fry 15 minuu-s, stirring constantly to prevent the onion becoming too brown, then pour in the stock, stir until it boils, and afterwards simmer gently for jo minutes. Strain and return to the saucepan, add lemon-juice and seasoning to taste, bring nearly to boiling point, then put in the anddi for about \ an hour, or until the tish becomes thoroughly impregnated with the flavour of the sauce. An occasional stir must. i-n to piv\rnt the li^h sticking to the bottom of the stewpan. Tin- remains of cold fish in. i\:. in which ease the preliminary frying may be omitted.

Time. — 1} hours. Average Cost, from is. o<l. to n. Sufficient for 5 or '» prrsons. Seasonable from November to March. • ' taM^ ^fcj^ JM»-.pluni»<|BdLfp«ipil • tail, tli. i 1 tli.- si L - i.-y fftro^ifbbM. Th» glu>ut the head los« t.. been 24 hours out of the vvhich th« cod should be fudged it thr firmness of in flesh; if trus rise rt.-r prrssun •,.,xxl; if n<>! Mgn of its goodness.j'pe.ir.ince of the ii or -side of i mynfLqLJpet. •4i will bo tirtn when cooked. Stiffness in a cod, or in any nllii! H^lf 430.— COD, HASHED. (Fr.— Rechauffe de Cabillaud.) Ingredients, j Ib. of cooked cod, 2 ozs. of butter, i £ ozs. flour, i pint milk, j pir.-.hrimps, j 1 salt, mashed potatoes, ch« Method. Hit nd tin- buttrr and flour in a. and fry for a few minutes \\ithout allowing them to colour. Add the milk,.uul Mir until boiling. Put in the cod, tlakrd into small pieces, and the shrimps. <r until thoroughly hot, and season carefully.

border of mashed potatoes on a hot dish. Pour the hash in the centre, and sprinkle a little chopped parsley over the top.

Time. \ an hour. Average Cost is. iod. to 2S. Sufficient for 4 or. Seasonable from November to March.

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431.— COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS. (Fr.— Hure de Cabillaud.) Ingredients. — Cod's head and shoulders, salt, lemon.

Method. — Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and rub a little salt over the thick part and inside the fish i or 2 hours before dressing it, as this very much improves the flavour. Lay it in the fish-kettle, with sufficient hot water to cover it. Be very particular not to pour the water on the fish as it is liable to break, and keep it only just simmering. If the water should boil away, add a little, pouring it in at the side of the kettle, and not on the fish. Skim very carefully, draw it to the side of the fire, and let it gently simmer till done. Garnish with cut lemon, and serve with either oyster or caper sauce.

Time. — 20 to 35 minutes, according to size. Average Cost, from 4d.

to 9d. per Ib. Allow 3 Ib. for 6 persons. Seasonable from November to THE COD (Fr. cabillaud) is a member of the family Gadidae, to which the haddocks, whitings and ling belong, characterized by long gills, seven rayed ventral fins attached beneath the throat, large median fins, and a cirrhus, or small beard, at the tip of the lower jaw. The body is oblong, smooth, and covered with small soft scales. The fins are enclosed in skin, and their rays are unarmed; the ventral fins are slender and terminate in a point; the median fins are large. The cod has three dorsal and two anal fins. It is a gregarious fish, and abounds in the colder waters of the seas of Europe and Newfoundland. The cod is caught by hand lines and hooks, baited with cuttle fish and shell-fish of various kinds, chiefly on the great banks of Newfoundland. The sounds of the codfish (Fr. nau de morue), or the swim-bladders, by means of which the fish ascend or descend in the water, are taken out of the fish, washed, and salted for exportation. The tongues are also cured, while from the liver considerable quantities of oil are obtained. This, the well-known cod liver oil, under its designation of " white," " pale," and " brown," is largely used in cases of consumption, its easily assimilated and nutritive qualities rendering it valuable in wasting diseases. Its chief constituents are olein, palmitin, stearin, acetic, butyric, and other acids.

432.— COD'S LIVER MINCED AND BAKED.

(Fr. — Foie de Cabillaud au Gratin.) Ingredients. — A cod's liver, 12 sauce oysters, ± of a pint of white sauce, butter, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper.

Method. — Parboil the liver and cut it into small pieces. Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, which afterwards strain and add to the white sauce. Halve or quarter the oysters, mix them with the prepared liver, and season to taste. Place the mixture in buttered scallop shells, add a little sauce, cover lightly with breadcrumbs, and on the top place 2 or 3 small pieces of butter. Bake in a moderately hot oven for 10 or 15 minutes, then serve.

Time — To bake, about 10 minutes. Average Cost is. 6d. to is. 9d.

Sufficient for 5 or 6 scallops. Seasonable from November to March.

433.— COD'S LIVER, QUENELLES OF.

(Fr. — Quenelles de Foie de Cabillaud.) Ingredients. — £ a Ib, of cod's liver, 2 tablespoonfuls of bread-

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crumbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the yolks of 2 or 3 eggs Method.— Wash and dry the liver, chop it finely, and mix with it the breadcrumbs and parsley. Add sufficient yolk of egg to bind the whole together, taking care not to make the mixture too moist. Season to taste, shape into quenelles (see " Quenelles of Veal "), poach until firm, and serve with a suitable sauce.

Time. — To poach, from 10 to 15 minutes. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from November till March.

434.— COD PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Cabillaud.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of cold cod, i doz. oysters (tinned may be used) \ a pint of melted butter sauce, £ a Ib. of short paste, or mashed potatoes, salt and pepper, nutmeg.

Method.— Take off the beards of the oysters, simmer them for a few minutes in a little water, then strain and mix with the oyster liquor (from fresh oysters). Cut the oysters into 2 or 4 pieces, according to size; divide the fish into large flakes, put half of it into the dish, lay the oysters on the top, season with salt and pepper, grate on a little nutmeg, add the melted butter sauce, and cover with the rest of the fish. Make the short crust paste according to directions given for short crust paste. Or, when a potato covering is preferred, season the potato with salt and pepper, and warm and stir in a saucepan, with a small piece of butter, and 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of milk. Bake about £ an hour in a moderate oven.

Time. From i to i^ hours. Average Cost, is. oxi. to 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March. 435.— COD, PROVENCALE STYLE. (Fr.— Cabillaud a la Pr oversale.) Ingredients. — About 2 Ib. of cod-fish (middle cut),£ a pint of Veloutd sauce, i gill white wine, 2 small shallots (chopped fine), i gill white stock, 2 ozs. butter, yolks of 2 eggs, i teaspoonful of anchovy-paste, 2 teaspoonfuls of capers, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a small bunch of parsley and herbs (bouquet-garni).

Method. — Wash and wipe the fish well, place it in a stewpan, season with pepper and salt, and add Veloute sauce, white wine, stock, chopped shallots, and bouquet-garni. Set it to simmer slowly until the fish is done, basting occasionally. Put the fish on a dish, and keep warm. Reduce the sauce until the desired consistency is obtained. Remove the herbs, add the yolks of eggs, work in the butter, and pass the

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ingredients through a tammy cloth or strainer. Return to a smallef stewpan, add the anchovy-paste, chopped parsley and capers, stir a few minutes over the fire, and pour over the fish. Average Cost. — 2s. 6d. to 35. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March.

436.-COD RECHAUFFE. (Fr.— Cabillaud.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cooked cod, £ a pint of white sauce, No. 222, i teaspoonful of mushroom sauce, \ a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, £ a teaspoonful of mixed mustard, butter, breadcrumbs, salt and Method. — Free the fish from skin and bones, and separate it into large flakes. Make the sauce as directed, add the mushroom sauce, anchovyessence, mustard, and salt and pepper to taste, put in the fish, mix well together, then turn the whole into a well-buttered fireproof bakingdish. Cover the surface lightly with breadcrumbs, add a few pieces of butter, bake in the oven until well browned, then serve in the Time. — To bake, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to iod., exclusive of the fish. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from November to March.

437.— COD'S ROE. (Fr.— Laitance de Cabillaud.) Ingredients.— Cod's roe, melted butter (No. 202), or white sauce No. 222, cream, brown breadcrumbs, salt, vinegar. Method. — Wash and wipe the cod's roe, and boil for 10 minutes in water with a little salt and vinegar. Cut into dice, and put into some melted butter made with cream or white sauce. Butter a scallop tin, put in the roe, cover with brown breadcrumbs, and brown in the oven, or serve it on hot buttered toast. It is often used as garnish to other Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. Seasonable in the Wint( 438.— COD'S ROE. (Fr.— Laitance de Cabillaud.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cod's roe, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat. Method. — Boil the roe for 15 minutes, then drain and cut it into slices. When cold, brush over with egg, roll in breadcrumbs, and fry, until nicely browned, in hot fat.

Time. — From 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to iod. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from November to March.

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i. Boiled Cod with French Sauce. 2. Whitebait. 3. Savoury Haddock in Rice Border.

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i. Cod Steak. 2. Fish Pic. 3. Crab Salad.

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439.-—COD SOUNDS. (Fr.— Nau de Morue.) Method. — These, salted, as Jhey are generally bought, should be soaked in milk and water for several hours, and then boiled in milk and water until tender, when they should be drained and served with egg sauce. When suitably dressed, they may be served as an entree or breakfast dish.

Average Cost. — 6d. Seasonable from November to March. 440.— COD SOUNDS WITH FRENCH SAUCE.

(Fr. — Nau de Morue, Sauce Fran^aise.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of cod sounds. For the batter: J of a pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, i egg, £ a tcaspoonful of salt. For the marinade (or brine): 2 tablespoonfuls each of salad-oil and vinegar, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, a good sprinkling of pepper, frying-fat. Method. — Soak and boil the sounds as directed in the preceding recipe, and cut them into pieces about 2 inches square. Mix the oil, vinegar, parsley, onion and pepper, pour over the sounds, and let them remain in the marinade for i hour, turning the pieces of sound at the end of \ an hour in order that both sides may absorb the flavour of the marinade. Make a batter of the milk, flour, egg and salt, dip each piece of sound into it, take out on the point of a skewer, drop into hot lit, and fry until nicely browned.

Time. — 1| to 2 hours. Average Cost, about is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from November to March.

441.— COD SOUNDS A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL.

(Fr.— Nau de Morue a la Maitre d'Hotel.) Ingredients. — 2 11 s. of cod sounds, 4 ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, pepper.

Method.— Soak and boil the sounds, and cut them into small pieces. Melt the butter, fry the onion for 2 or 3 minutes without browning, then put in the lemon-juice, parsley, a good sprinkling of pepper, and the tish. Make hot, and serve.

Time. About i hour, after soaking. Average Cost, is. f>d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from November to March. 442.— COD SOUNDS WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE.

(Fr. — Nau de Morue, Sauce Piquante.) Ingredients.— 2 Ib. of cod sounds, j of a pint of piquante sauce, No.

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Method. — Soak and boil the sounds, and cut them into small pieces. Make the sauce as directed, put in the pieces of sound, make hot, and Time. — About i hour, after soaking. Average Cost, from is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from November to 443.— COD STEAKS. (Fr.— Tranche de Cabillaud.) Ingredients. — f-inch slices cut from a medium or small cod, flour, salt and pepper, frying-fat, parsley.

Method. — Make a rather thin batter of flour and water, and season it well with salt and pepper. Melt sufficient clarified fat or dripping in a frying-pan to form a layer about £ an inch in depth. Wash and dry the fish, dip each piece separately in the batter, place these at once in the hot fat, and fry them until of a light -brown, turning once during the process. Drain well, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley. If preferred, the fish may be coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried in deep fat. Anchovy, tomato, or any other fish sauce would form a suitable accompaniment.

Time. — To fry, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, from 4d. to 8d. per Ib. Seasonable from November to March.

444.— COD WITH CREAM. (Fr.— Cabillaud a la Crime.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of cod, 3 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, £ a pint of white stock (or milk), 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash, and dry the fish thoroughly. Melt 2 ozs. of the butter in a stewpan, put in the cod, and fry quickly on both sides without browning. Add the stock, cover closely, and simmer gently for about 20 minutes, then place on a hot dish. Melt the remaining oz. of butter, stir in the flour, add the stock in which the fish was cooked, and enough milk to make up the original quantity (£ a pint), boil up, and simmer for about 10 minutes to cook the flour. Add the cream and lemon-juice, season to taste, and strain over the fish. Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March. 445.— COD WITH CREAM. (Fr.— Cabillaud a la Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of cod, i£ ozs. of butter, i| ozs. of flour, £ of a pint of white stock or milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, i teaspoonful of lemon- juice, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, salt and pepper.

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KECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 315 Method. — Wash the cod and boil it in a very small quantity of water, which afterwards may be used for the sauce. Melt the butter, fry the onion a few minutes without browning, add the flour, cook for ten minutes, then pour in the stock and stir until it boils. Simmer for a few minutes, then add the lemon-juice, parsley, seasoning, cream, and when well mixed put in the fish. Draw the saucepan to the side of the stove for about 10 minutes, then dish, and serve. Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March. 446.— COD WITH PARSLEY BUTTER.

(Fr.— Cabillaud a la Maitre d'Hotel.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of cod (cold remains will serve), 4 ozs. of butter i teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the juice of % a lemon, pepper.

Method. — Boil the cod, and afterwards separate into large flakes. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the onion, and fry for 2 or 3 minutes without browning; then put in the parsley, lemon-juice, a good pinch of pepper, and the fish. Shake gently over the fire until quite hot, Time. — 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March. 447.— COD WITH ITALIAN SAUCE. (Fr.— Cabillaud a 1'Italienne.) Ingredients. — 2 slices of crimped cod, £ of a pint of Italian sauce (No. 252).

Method. — Boil the cod, take out the middle bone, remove the skin, and place on a hot dish. Make the sauce according to directions given, strain over the fish, and serve.

Time. — From i to i£ hours. Average Cost, 2S. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to March. 448.— CRAB SALAD. (Fr.— Salade de Crabe.) Ingredients.— i medium-sized crab, i hard-boiled egg, 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, i tablcspoonful of vinegar, i good lettuce, i bunch of watercress, a few slices of pickled beetroot, a tomato, pepper and salt. Method.— Pick the meat from the shell and shred it finely. Wash and y the lettuce, and either break or cut it into small pieces; wash and k the cress, and break it into small pieces; cut the tomato into thin Mix the oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, put in the salad, stir lightly until thoroughly mixed, then add the crab, mix well, and arnish with the slices of beetroot and tomato, rings of white of egg, md the yolk, previously rubbed through a wire sieve.

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3i6 HOUSEHOLD i MANAGEMENT Average Cost. — is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from April to October.

449.— CRAB, SCALLOPED. (Fr.— Crabe enCoquille.) Ingredients.— i or 2 crabs, cream, vinegar, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, mustard.

Method. — Remove the meat from the claws and body, taking care to leave the unwholesome part near the head. Add about £ its bulk in fine breadcrumbs, season to taste with salt, pepper and mustard, and stir in a few drops of vinegar. Add cream until the right consistency is obtained, then turn into buttered scallop shells, and sprinkle the surface lightly with breadcrumbs. Place small pieces of butter on the top, and bake in a moderate oven until nicely browned.

Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 35. Sufficient, 2 crabs for 8 or 9 scallops. Seasonable from April to October.

THE CRAB (Fr. crabe). — The popular name for many genera of the Crustacea, constituting the suborder Brachyura, " short-tailed," which includes the true crabs, order Decapoda, " ten-limbed," and distinguished from the lobster by the shortness of the tail, which is folded under the broadenedout body, the latter being covered with a strong carapace or shell. The gills are placed in the sides of the body, and are popularly known as " dead men's fingers." The liver is composed of a soft rich yellow substance, called the " fat." The mouth has several pairs of powerful jaws, and the stomach is furnished with hard projections by means of which the crab grinds its food, consisting chiefly of vegetable matter and molluscae. The front pair of legs form nipping claws, which are renewed when injured or lost. The eyes are compound and movable. The majority of crabs live in the sea, but there are some fresh-water species, and others which live on land, but go to the sea to spawn. After hatching, the young of the crab passes through two stages. In the first, it is free-swimming and possesses a tail; in the second stage, it is also tailed, but after moulting it loses its tail and becomes the perfect crab. A remarkable feature in the life-history of the crab is the changing of its shell, to permit its growth, and the reproduction, as noticed above, of injured claws. Annually, usually during the winter, the crab retires to a cavity in the rocks or beneath a great stone, and conceals itself until the new shell, which at first is very soft, becomes hardened. The HERMIT CRAB derives its name from its habit of taking possession of the deserted shell of some mollusc, the hermit crab having no shell of its own. The crab is much esteemed, and forms an important fishery on the Hnti.^h coasts.

450. — CRAB, TO DRESS. (Fr. — Crabe or Ecrevisse de Mer.) Ingredients. — i medium sized crab, i hard-boiled egg, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, salt and pepper, cayenne. Method. — Empty the shells, mix the meat with the vinegar and oil, and season well. Clean the large shell, put in the mixture and garnisl with slices of lemon, parsley, and egg, the yolk rubbed through a wii sieve and the white coarsely-chopped.

Average Cost. — lod. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from April to October.

To CHOOSE CRABS.— Crabs of medium size are the best, and. like lobsters, should be judged by their weight.

451.— CRAB, DRESSED. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized crab, 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, 2

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tablespoonfuls of vinegar, breadcrumbs, pepper and salt. For garnishing: lobster coral, butter, hard-boiled egg, or parsley. Method. — Pick the meat from the shell, flake it into small shreds, and add to it the same proportion of finely-grated breadcrumbs. Season to taste with pepper and salt, then mix well with the oil, and lastly the vinegar. Carefully wash and dry the shell and put in the mixture, garnishing with lobster coral, butter, or hard-boiled egg and parsley. Average Cost. — is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable from April to October.

452.— CRAB, DEVILLED. (Fr— Crabe a la Diable.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized crab, £ of a pint of thick white sauce, I dessertspoonful of anchovy-essence, I dessertspoonful of chutney, i teaspoonful of vinegar (preferably chilli), i teaspoonful of made mustard, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, cayenne, salt and pepper, brown breadcrumbs.

Method. — Pick the meat from the shells, and put one claw aside. Mix together the white sauce, anchovy-essence, chutney, vinegar, and mustard, season well with suit, popper and cayenne, then add the crab, except the one claw. Clean the shell, put in the mixture, lightly with browned breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderately hot oven for about 15 minutes. In the meantime separate the meat of the remaining claw into fine flakes, and warm between two plates either in the oven or over a saucepan of boiling water. Remove the crab from the oven, and garnish with the flaked claw and the chopped Time.— i hour. Average Cost, from is. to 2s. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from April to October.

453.— CRAB, HOT. (Fr.— Crabe au Gratin.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized crab, 2 ozs. of butter, j ozs. of breadcrumbs, 3 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, i tablespoonful of vinegar, nutmeg, salt and pepper, browned breadcrumbs.

Method. — Pick the meat from the shell, season well with salt and pepper, add a little nutmeg, the butter slightly warmed, the white sauce, vinegar, and breadcrumbs, and mix these well together. Have ready the shell, washed and dry, put in the mixture, cover with a thin layer of browned breadcrumbs, add 3 or 4 small pieces of butter, ami bake for 10 or 15 minutes in a brisk oven.

Time. — i hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 9d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons, Seasonable from April to October.

454.— CRAB OR LOBSTER, POTTED.

Ingredients. — 2 crabs or lobsters, £ of a pint of cream, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 yolks of eggs, salt and pepper, cayenne, clarified butter.

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Method. — Pick the meat from the shells, chop it finely, and then put it into a stewpan with the butter and seasoning, and cook slowly for 20 minutes. Add the cream and yolks of eggs, stir, cook by the side of the fire until the mixture has the consistency of thick paste, then rub through a fine sieve, press into pots, and when cold cover with clarified butter.

Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 33. Seasonable 455.— CRAB, POTTED. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 2 crabs, salt, cayenne, mace, clarified butter (from 4 to 5 ozs.).

Method. — Pick the meat from the shells, pound it in a mortar with the seasoning, rub through a fine sieve, press it into small pots, cover with melted butter, and bake in a moderately hot oven for £ an hour. When cold, cover each pot with clarified butter.

Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 2 or 3 pots. Seasonable at any time.

456.— CRAYFISH, POTTED. (Fr.— Ecrevisses en Terrine. ) Ingredients. — 4 doz. live crayfish, £ a Ib. of butter, ground mace, salt Method. — Put the crayfish into boiling water to which has been added a good seasoning of salt and a little vinegar, cook from 15 to 20 minutes, then drain and dry. Pick the meat from the shells, and pound it in a mortar to a fine paste, adding gradually the butter, and mace, salt and pepper to taste. Press into small pots, cover with clarified butter, and when cold, use.

Average Cost. — is. to is. 3d. per dozen. Seasonable all the year. THE DACE (Fr. vandoise) called also the DART, is found usually in the dull, clear, slowly-running streams of England and Europe. It is allied to the chub, barbel and roach, and resembles the l.i*t, but is longer and thinner in the body, and its scales are smaller. In colour it is dullish blue on the upper, and white on the under, parts; the gill-covers and sides of the head are silvery white. The dace is gregarious and swims in shoals. The flesh is rather coarse in quality. 457.— DORY, JOHN. (Fr.— Doree or St. Pierre.) Method. — This fish, which is e'steemed by most people a great delicacy, is dressed in the same way as a turbot, which it resembles in firmness, but not in richness. Cleanse it thoroughly, cut off the fins but not the head, which is considered a delicacy, lay it in a fish-k cover with warm water, and add salt to taste. Bring it gradually to near boiling point, and simmer gently for 15 minutes, or rather longer, should the fish be very large. Serve on a hot napkin, and garnish with cut lemon and parsley. Lobster, anchovy, or shrimp sauce, and plain melted butter, should be sent to table with it.

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Time. — After the water boils, £ to 4- an hour, according to size. Average Cost, is. to 33. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable all the year, but best from September to January.

Note. — Small John Dorys are excellent baked.

458.— DORY, JOHN. (Fr.— Doree a la Genoise.) Ingredients.— i dory, i gill of picked shrimps, 2 smelts, i teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, i egg, about 2 ozs. of panada, i oz. of butter, pepper and salt, i tablespoonful of Chablis or Sauterne, Genoise sauce (No. 301).

Method. — Wash the fish, wipe it and remove the fillets (the bones, etc., may be used for the Genoise sauce). Pare the fillets ndatly, and cut them into oblong pieces. Remove the bones and heads from the smelts, pound them together with the shrimps in a mortar until they are quite smooth, then add the panada and anchovy-essence, and moisten with the egg. Mix thoroughly, season to taste, and rub the whole through a sieve. Spread each piece of fillet with this farce, fold over, and place them on a well buttered saute-pan. Season, lightly moisten with the wine and a few drops of lemon-juice, cover with a buttered pape'r, and cook in the oven for about 15 minutes, or longer, according to the thickness of the fillets. Take up carefully, and dish up on a hot dish. Pour some previously prepared Genoise sauce into the pan in which the fish was cooked, boil up, and strain over the fillets. Serve hot.

Time. — To cook, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 35. Sufficient for 5 persons. Seasonable all the year, but best from Scptc*mbcr to January.

THE DORY (Fr. doree), called also JOHN DORY, is a yellowish golden-coloured fish, belonging to the mackerel family, distinguished, as a genus, by its divided dorsal fin, the spinous part of which is less developed than the soft portion. The head is curiously shaped, and the body compressed. Its name is supposed to be a corruption of the French, jaunt doree (" golden-yellow."). The dory is highly esteemed as a table-fish, and its flesh when dressed is of a beautiful clear white. A popular superstition ascribes the peculiar black mark on each side of the fish to St. Peter's finger and thumb, the dory being, so runs the legend, the fish from which the apostle took the tribute money. The and in the Mediterranean and other seas of Europe.

459.— EELS BOILED. (Fr. — Anguilles Bouillies.) Ingredients. — 4 small eels, a small bunch of parsley, £ of a pint of parsley sauce (No. 311), a little salt.

Method. — Clean and skin the eels, put them into a stewpan with the parsley, a little salt, and warm water to barely cover them. Simmer gently for £ an hour, or until they are tender, then serve with the sauce poured over thdm.

Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, 8d. to is. per Ib. Sufficient:or 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from June to March.

THE EEL (Fr. anguillf).— This name is applied generally to fish with elongated bodies, but is scientitcally restricted to certain genera of the Apodta, fish without ventral fins, belonging to the sub-order or " soft-finned." The eel has a smooth head and a serpentine body, covered with

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minute detached scales which are frequently concealed by the skin, the absence of scales being conrpensated for by a mucous secretion, which renders the eel proverbially slippery. The lower jaw projects beyond the upper, the teeth are sharp, and a swim-bladder is present. Some species of eel are marine, others fresh- water, while some, as the Anguilla, live in both elements. The coi^.-reel is exclusively marine, and is the largest of the eels. The eel lives in the mud. among weeds, roots or stumps of trees, or holes in the banks, or the bottoms of rivers, where they often grow to an enormous size, weighing as much as 15 Ib. or 16 Ib. It seldom emerges from its hiding-place except in the night; and in winter, on account of its great susceptibility to cold, it buries itself in the mud. The eel is noted for its voracity and tenacity of life, and also for its remarkable fecundity, the young of the eels which spawn in the estuaries of rivers passing up the streams in vast numbers; such a passage is called the " eel-fare." The eel frequently migrates from one habitat to another, crossing over the intervening marshy land. Various methods are employed for capturing the eel, river eels being usually caught in wicker baskets with funnel-shaped mouths, into which they enter, but r.usm.t get out. Eels are also taken by means of a kind of trident, called an eel-spear, and by hooks and lines. Large quantities of eels are caught in Holland, from whence they are brought alive to the London market by boats fitted with wells. As an article of food, they are largely eaten in England, but seldom in Scotland; the flesh is somewhat fatty and insipid. The eel-like fish, Gymnotus elcctricus of South America, has the property of communicating an electric shock when touched. Holland is very famous for its eels, and sends large quantities to London; but those caught in the Thames are more silvery in appearance, and are considered by epicures to be of a better flavour. 460.— EEL, CONGER. (Fr.^-Congre. Anguille de Mer.) This is much esteemed by many persons. It forms the basis of the well-known soup of the Channel Islands, and is made into pies in the West of England. Like a tough steak, it always needs long stewing or cooking, as the flesh is remarkably firm and hard. It can be cooked like a fresh-water eel.

THE CONGER EEL (Fr. anguillf de mer), a genus of marine eels, having a long dorsal fin 1>< near the nape of the neck, a long eel-like body destitute of scales, and the upper jaw exten.! the lower, both furnished with sharp rows of teeth. The conger eel is a muscular and vor.ii; The most familiar species is the Conger vulgaris, abundant on the English coasts, especially oft Cornwall, which sometimes attains to a length of 10 feet, and over 100 Ib. in weight. Its colour, wBfch varies with its habitat, is a pale brown above and greyish-white underneath. The flesh of tin eel is coarse, but its gelatinous qualities are medicinally valuable.

461.— EEL, CONGER, BAKED. (Fr.— Congre roti.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of conger eel, suet-force: see Sauces, No.

butter or fat, flour.

Method. — Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, stuff it with the prep forcemeat, and bind it with tape. Melt the butter or fat in a bakingdish or tin, put in the fish, and baste it well. Bake gently for i hour, meanwhile basting occasionally with fat, and dredging the surface with flour. Serve witli the gravy poured round, or, if preferred, with tomato, brown caper, or a suitable fish sauce.

Time. — To bake, i hour. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. per Ib. Suftkimt for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable September and November.

462.— EEL, CONGER, BOILED. (Fr. - - Congre Bouilli.) Ingredients. — Conger eel, vinegar, salt.

Method. — Put the fish into a fish-kettle containing just enough hot salted water to barely cover it, and add a little vinegar. I.n it lmil. then simmer gently for about £ an hour, or until tlu- fi^h ^< -j-

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i.— Oyster Patties. 2. -Whiting. 3.— Turbot. 4.— Whitebait. 5.— Mackerel. 6.— Mayonnaise Salmon. 7.— Lobster. 8.— Crab.

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easily from the bone. Drain well, serve garnished with lemon and parsley, and send parsley and butter sauce, or any fish sauce preferred, to table in a tureen.

Time.— To boil, about \ an hour. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. per Ib. 463.— EEL, CONGER, FRIED. (Fr.— Congre frit.) Ingredients. — Conger eel, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, flour, salt and Method. — Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, and cut it into slices about £ of an inch in thickness. Roll lightly in flour seasoned with salt and pepper, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until lightly browned. Drain well, and serve with tomato anchovy, or any suitable fish sauce.

Time.— To fry, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 4d. to 6d. per Ib. 464.— EEL, CONGER, PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Congre.) Ingredients. — i small conger eel, rough puff paste, or puff, i tablespoonful of vinegar, i tcaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, salt Method.— Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, remove all skin and bones, and cut it i.ito neat pieces. Place these in layers in a pie dish, sprinkling each layer with salt, pepper, onion, herbs and p;u add water to three-quarters fill the dish, and mix with it the vil Cover the fish with paste, bake in a moderate oven for about i hour, and serve cither hot or cold.

Time.— To bake, about i hour. Average Cost, Fish, from 4d. to 6d. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons.

465.— EEL, CONGER, STEWED. (Fr.— Ragout de Congre.) Ingredients.— 3 slices off a medium-sized conger, i onion sliced, a bouquet-garni parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, i blade i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, ) of a pint of milk, \ a pint of water, salt and popper.

Method. Heat the water, put in the fish, onion, herbs, mace, cloves, d a little salt and pepju r, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Meanwhile melt the butter in a stcwpan, add the flour, and stir and cook wrly for 10 minutes without browning. Strain the liquor from the i on to the prepared butter and flour, stir until boiling, then add the '1 up, pour over the fish, and si:

Time.— About '. an h.,ur. Average Cost, fish irom 4d. to 6d. per Ib. Sufficient for 3

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466.— EEL, COLLARED. (Fr.— Anguille en Galantine.) Ingredients. — i large eel, 3 or 4 ozs. of veal forcemeat (No. 412), a good pinch each of ground cloves, mace, allspice, mixed herbs, sage, salt and pepper, fish stock, and vinegar.

Method. — Cut off the head and tail of the eel, and remove the skin and backbone. Mix all the ingredients enumerated above with the forcemeat, spread the eel flat on the table, and cover its inner side with the mixture. Roll up the eel, beginning with the broad end, and bind it in shape with a strong tape. Have ready some fish stock, made by simmering the backbone, head, and tail of the eel while the forcemeat was being prepared. See that it is well seasoned with salt, add a tablespoonful of vinegar, put in the eel, and simmer gently for about 40 minutes, then press the eel between two dishes or boards until cold. Meanwhile add allspice and a little more vinegar to the liquor in which the eel was cooked, simmer gently for \ an hour, then strain. When the eel is cold, put it into the liquor and let it remain until required for use. The eel should be glazed before serving.

Time. — About i£ hours, to prepare and cook. Average Cost, from 9d. to is. per Ib. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year round, but best from June to March.

467.— EELS FRIED. (Fr.— Anguilles Frites.) Ingredients. — I or 2 medium-sized eels, I tablespoonful of flour, % a teaspoonful of salt, £ of a teaspoonful of pepper, i egg, breadcrumbs, parsley, salt and pepper, frying-fat.

Method. — Wash, skin, and dry the eels thoroughly, and divide them into pieces from 2% to 3 inches long. Mix the flour, salt and pepper together, and roll the pieces of eel separately in the mixture. Coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until crisp and lightlybrowned, then drain well, and serve garnished with crisply-fried Time. — About 2, minutes. Average Cost, eels, 8d. to is. perlb. Allow 2 Ib. for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from June to March. 468.— EEL PIE. (Fr.— Pate aux Anguilles.) Ingredients. — i-J- Ib. of eels, | a pint of meat stock, i tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, i dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, pepper and salt, rough puff paste, or puff.

Method. — Clean and skin the eels, and cut them into pieces about 2 inches long. Put the heads, tails, and fins into a stewpan with the stock, simmer for £ an hour, then strain, and skim well. Place the eels in a pie-dish, with a good seasoning of salt and pepper between *he layers. Add the lemon-juice and ketchup to the stock, pour about

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half of it into the pie-dish, cover with paste, and bake in a fairly-hot oven for i hour. Warm the remainder of the stock, and pour it into the pie through a funnel as soon as it is taken from the oven. Time, i hour to bake. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 persons. Seasonable all the year, but best from June to March. 469.— EEL PIE. (Fr.— Pate aux Anguilles.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of eels, a little chopped parsley, i shallot, grated mitmei,', pepper and salt to taste, the juice of | a lemon, a small quantity of forcemeat, £ of a pint of Bechamel (see Sauces), puff paste. Method. — Skin and \\\ish the eels, cut them into pieces, 2 inches hem; line the bottom of the pie-dish with forcemeat. Put in the;>rinkle them with the parsley, shallot, nutmeg, seasoning and lemon-juice, cover them with puff-paste, ornament the top with fancifully cut strips of paste, brush over with c.^g yolk and bake in iy hot oven lor about i hour. Make the Bechamel sauce hot, ami pour it into the pie before serving.

Time. — From \\ to i$ hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable all the year, but best from June to March. 470.— EELS WITH MATELOTE SAUCE.

(Fr.— Anguilles a la Matelote.^ Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of eels, f of a pint of good stock, $ of a pint of * -erved mushrooms, 2$ ozs. of butter, i$ ozs. of flour, salt and Method. — Wash and dry the eels, cut them into three-inch lengths, and roll them in flour seasoned with a little salt and pepper, i oz. of butter in a stewpan, fry the eels until lightly browned, then drain off any butter that remains. Put in the stock and wine, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for | an hour. Meanwhile melt the remaining butter in another stewpan, stir in the flour, cook it gently until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then put it aside. Drain the pieces of m the stock, and keep them hot, strain the stock, add to the.cd flour, and stir until boiling. !. ly the mushrooms cooked, heat them up in a little stock, and add them to the sauce, season to taste, and boil gently for 3 or 4 minutes. Pour the sauce r the fish, and serve.

Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, 33. 1033. 6d. Sufficient for 471. EELS WITH TARTAR SAUCE. (Fr.— Anguilles a la Tartare.) Ififredtents.— 2 Ib. of eels, i a pint of good stock, a glass of sherry, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, 1} ozs, of butter. Tartar sauce (No. 213).

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Method. — Wash, skin, dry, and cut the eels into pieces 2^ inches long. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the eels and fry until brown, then add the stock (which must be highly seasoned) and sherry, and simmer gently for about 15 minutes. Drain well, and when cool brush over with egg, roll in breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in hot fat. Garnish with fried parsley, and serve with a tureen of tartar sauce. Time. — From i to i£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable all the year, but best from June to March.

472.— EEL, FRIED, REMOULADE SAUCE.

(Fr. — Fritote d'Anguille a la Remoulade.) Ingredients. — i good-sized eel, yolks of 3 eggs, i tablespoonful oiled butter, breadcrumbs, a few sprigs of parsley, |- a teaspoonful of sweet herbs, pepper and salt, fat for frying, \ a lemon, Remoulade sauce (No. 271) Method. — Wash, skin and clean the eel, cut off the tail and head, split it open, and take out the bone. Cut into neat pieces about i£ inches long, dry well on a cloth, and dip these in a little flour previously mixed with sufficient salt and pepper to season. Beat the yolks of 3 eggs, add the oiled butter, sweet herbs, and finely-chopped parsley. Coat the pieces well in this, then roll in breadcrumbs. Fry them in hot fat to a golden colour, drain well, dish up on a hot dish covered with a folded napkin. Garnish with slices of lemon and fried parsley and serve with a boat of Remoulade sauce. Fried eels are more palatable if served with an acid sauce. Lemonjuice squeezed over the fish just before serving will greatly improve the flavour.

Time. — To fry, 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year, but best from June to March.

473.— EELS STEWED. (Fr.— Anguilles a 1'Anglaise.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of eels, 2 ozs. of butter, i medium-sized onion, i dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Method. — Skin and clean the eels, cut them into pieces about 2 inches long, and place them in a jar. Add the butter, the onion cut into slices, parsley, salt and pepper, cover closely, and place the jar in a saucepin of cold water, which must be brought slowly to the boil. Cook until the eels are tender; this will take about i£ hours from the time the water boils. When done, place on a hot dish, and strain the gravy over.

Time. — From 2 to 2-J- hours. Average Cost, is. pd. to 2S. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from June to March, but obtainable all the year.

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474.— EELS STEWED. (Fr.— Anguilles a la Creme.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. oi eels, i pint of good stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, i tflass of port wine, I teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a strip of lemon-rind, 2 oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i onion, 2 cloves, salt, cayenne. Method. — Wash and skin the eels, cut them into pieces about 3 inches put them into a stewpan, add the stock, wine, onion, cloves, rind, and seasoning. Simmer gently for | an hour, or until tender, then lift them carefully on to a hot dish. Have ready the butter and flour kneaded together, add it to the stock in small portion until smoothly mixed with the stock, and boil for 10 minutes, then put in the cream and lemon-juice. Season to taste, and Time.—] of an hour. Average Cost, from 2s. 6d. to 35. 6d. Sufficient tor "iis. Seasonable from June.. but obtainable all the 475.— EELS STEWED. (Fr.— Anguilles au VinRouge.) Ingredients.— 2 Ib. of eels, i pint of brown sauce, | of a pint of port i dessertspoonful of lemon- juice, i teaspoonful of am essence, i \ ozs. of butter, cayenne, salt.

Method. — Wa- ad dry the eels, and cut them into pieces about es long. Molt the butter in a stewpan, put in the eels, and fry until nicely bnmued. Then add the same, wine, anchovy-essence.uul Milliner very gently f°r about 2O niinu:< •-. I ill rcfully on to a h«> the Union-juice to the sauce, Time.— From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, obtainable all the year, bin beJim- h.

476.— FISH CAKES.

Ingredients.— I us of any cold fish; to each Ib. allow $ a Ib. >hed potatoes, i oz. of butter, j eggs, breadcrumbs, milk, salt and Method. II. -at the butter in a saucepan, add the* fish (coai «f i egg milk • voughly. Stir the iiu minutes, then turn on to a plal ipe into run n. 1 in hot fat.

to one lar istead of several smal; -• a flat tin, and shape the mixture as nnu:;htly browned;i:rs in • ot oven.

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This dish may be varied by the addition of forcemeat, made of 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 2 tablespoonfuls breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt, pepper, grated lemonrind, or other flavouring, and moistened with egg or milk. Or the forcemeat may be made of i tablespoonful of picked and coarselychopped shrimps, breadcrumbs, a teaspoonful of anchovyessence, i tablespoonful of melted butter, salt, pepper, cayenne, and a little milk. When using forcemeat, spread one half of the fish-cake mixture on the tin in the form of a sole, spread the forcemeat in the centre, leaving bare a narrow margin at the sides, cover with the remainder of the mixture, brush over with egg, sprinkle with browned breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderate oven for 35 or 40 minutes. Time. — About £ hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. for 12 small cakes. Sufficient. — lib. fish, etc., for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time. 477._FISH CAKES FROM TINNED SALMON.

Ingredients. — i tin of salmon, i Ib. of mashed potato, milk, i egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, frying-fat, parsley. Method. — When using cold potato stir it over the fire with a little milk until quite hot and smooth. Chop the fish coarsely, add it to the potato, season to taste, and stir over the fire until thoroughly mixed, adding a little milk if too dry. Let the mixture cool on a plate, then shape into small rpund cakes, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until lightly browned. Drain well, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.

Time. — Altogether, i£ hours. Average Cost, 9d. to is. 478.— FISH CHOWDER.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of cod, haddock or whiting, 3 or 4 potatoes peeled and sliced, ^ of a Ib. of pickled pork cut into dice, i small onion finely- chopped, 3 water biscuits, \ a pint of milk, i pint of water, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt, pepper. Method. — Wash and dry the fish, and cut it into small pieces. Place the fish, potatoes and pork in a stewpan in alternate layers, sprinkling each layer with onion, herbs, salt and pepper. Add the water, cover closely, and cook gently for 40 minutes. Meanwhile soak the biscuits in the milk, beat out all the lumps with a fork, and stir the preparation into the stew about 10 minutes before serving. Add seasoning to taste, and serve hot.

Time. — To cook the chowder, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, about is. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. 479.— FISH, CROQUETTES OF. (Fr.— Croquettes de Poisson.) Ingredients. — Cooked fish; to £ a Ib. of which allow £ of a Ib. of mashed

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potatoes, } an oz. of butter, i yolk of egg, i whole egg, breadcrumbs, milk, salt and pepper, frying-fat.

Method. — Remove all skin and bone from the fish, then chop it coarsely. Heat the butter in a stc\vpan, add the fish, potatoes, yolk of cpg, salt and pepper to taste, and sufficient milk to moisten it thoroughly. Stir the preparation over the fire until well mixed, then turn it on to a plate. When cold, form it into cork-shaped pieces, brush over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat. Drain well, and serve garnished with crisply-fried pars'Time. — To fry, about 5 minutes. Average Cost, jd. to 4d., in addition to * Ib. of fish.

480.— FISH, FRICASSEE OF. (Fr.-Fricass6e de Poisson.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of white fish, | a pint of milk, £ of a pint of water, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i bay-leaf, i blade of mace, i pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, lemon-juice to taste.

Method. — Divide the fish into pieces about i| inches square. Put the milk, water, salt and pepper, bay-leaf, mace and nutmeg into a stewpan, and when warm add the fish. Bring to the boil and simmer for 10 minutes, then take out the bay-leaf and the mace. Have ready the butter and flour kneaded together, add it in small portions to the contents of the stewpan, and stir gently. When the flour is mixed smoothly with the liquor, add lemon-juice and seasoning to taste, and Time.— About 30 minutes. Average Cost, lod. Sufficient for 2 or 3 >ns. Seasonable at any time.

481.— FISH AND MACARONI. (Fr.— Poisson aux Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fish (cooked), | a Ib. of macaroni, 3 ozs, of grated cheese, i or. of butter, pepper and salt.

Method. — Remove all skin and bone from the fish, and separate it into large flakes. Break the macaroni into pieces about i inch in length, put it into boiling salted water, and boil rapidly until tender, veil-greased pie-dish, put in a layer of fish, season well with salt and pepper, cover with macaroni, and add a good sprinkling of cheese and seasoning. Repeat until the dish is full. Put the butter in small pieces on the top, and bake for about 20 minutes in a quick Time. — About T hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 23. Sufficient for 5 Seasonable at any •

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482.— FISH AND MACARONI. (Fr.— Poisson aux Macaroni.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cooked fish, £ of a Ib. of macaroni, i£ ozs. of grated cheese, £ an oz. of butter, pepper and salt, £ of a pint of white sauce (see sauces, No. 222).

Method. — Remove all skin and bones, and separate the fish into small flakes. Put the macaroni into salted boiling water, and boil rapidly for about 20 minutes, or until tender, then cut it into small pieces. Heat the white sauce, add i oz. of cheese, the fish and macaroni, season to taste, and mix well together. Turn the preparation into a buttered pie-dish, sprinkle the remaining cheese on the top, and add the butter in small pieces. Brown in a hot oven, and serve in the dish. Time. — To bake, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient 483.— FISH AND OYSTER PIE. (Fr.—Pate de Poisson aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of any cold fish, such as cod or haddock, i dozen oysters, pepper and salt to taste, breadcrumbs or puff-paste, sufficient for the quantity of fish, £ a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, melted butter or white sauce. Method. — Clear the' fish from the bones, put a layer of it in a pie-dish, add a few oysters, with nutmeg and chopped parsley. Repeat this till the dish is quite full. A covering may be formed either of breadcrumbs, which should be browned, or puff-paste, which should be cut into long strips, and laid in cross-bars over the fish, with a line of paste first laid round the edge. Pour in some sauce No. 202, melted butter, or a little thin white sauce, and the oyster-liquor, then bake. Time. — If madd of cooked fish, % of an hour; if made of fresh fish and puff-paste, £ of an hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 6 persons. 484.— FISH PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Poisson.) Ingredients. — i Ib. each of cold fish and mashed potatoes, 2 eggs. i tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, and 4 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, enough milk to reduce the mixture to the consistency of very thick batter, salt and pepper.

Method. — Chop the fish coarsely, mix it with the potatoes and suet, add a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, the eggs and milk, and beat well. Turn into a greased pie-dish, and cook in a moderate oven for i £ to i£ hours. Serve in the dish in which it is baked. Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d., exclusive of the fish. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time.

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in ji ily. uiiy.

>ut \\ith \Vhiti- Sauce.

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i. Fish Cakes. 2. Fish Quenelles. 3. Cold Fish Timbales.

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RFJ'NT.S FOR COOKING FISH 329 485.— FISH PIE. (Another Method.) Ingredients.— i li>. of any cold fish, 2 ozs. of oiled butter, some mashed teaspoonfuls of anchovy-sauce, cayenne to taste. Method. ic fish, and season with the anchovy -sauce and I 'ut it in a well-buttered pie-dish, lay a little oiled butter >p, fill up with the potatoes, and bake for 15 minutes. Time.— 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 Seasonable at any tune.

486. -FISH PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding de Poisson.) Ingredients. — i lt>. of any kind of white fish, 4 ozs. of finely-chopped _' ozs. of breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped pa ^ of a pint of milk, or stock mad' li bones, 2 egi.hops Method.;i and bones, and pound it will with t when making it \\ithout the aid of a mortar, chop the fish.mil rub it through a fine sieve); add th cpper, anchovy-e- 1 mix \\«-ll; U-at the eggs slightly, add the milk or li>h M< tir into the mixture. Ha\ ! plain mould or basin, put in the mixture.,ith a in gently for nearly i± hours. Serve uce.

Time.— Altogether 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 487. -FISH SALAD. (Fr.— Salade de Poisson.) Ingredients, i ll> of o. Mayonnaise sauce. Method. Id fish (almost any kind of white • linon will do\ put this in a largr mixing l>oul, add to h its (ju.intity <»f lettuce, was!, also onefourth of whit-- cleaned celery (if in season). Cut the celery into orstni 11 carefully, adding salt and pepper to taste. Arrange in a salad bowl, and pour over some Mayonnaise dn ly with hard-boiled egg, cut into slices. When a use shredded chicory, endive or slicv.cs. Time. JQ minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient 488. FISH STEW. (/-Y-Ragout de Poisson.) Ingredients.; or 4 small floui or other win umbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped pa oonful <»: lemon-rind, 2 eggs, ^ an oz. of butter,.blcspoonful oi lemon-juice, mace, ginger, ilt.

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Method. — Clean, wash and dry the fish, and cut it into neat fillets. Remove the skin and bones from some of the smaller pieces, and coarsely chop the fish, which should fill 2 tablespoons. To this add the breadcrumbs, parsley, lemon-rind; season with salt and pepper, bind with a little beaten egg, and shape into small balls. Melt the butter, fry the onion slightly, add a pinch each of ginger, mace and cayenne, and a little salt and pepper. Put in the filleted fish, barely cover it with hot water, bring to the boil, then lay the forcemeat balls on the top of the fish. Cover with a greased paper, to keep in the steam, simmer gently for 1 5 to 20 minutes, then transfer to a hot dish. Strain the liquor over the remainder of the beat en eggs, replace in thestewpan, season to taste, and add the lemon-juice. Stir by the side of the fire until the sauce begins to thicken, taking care that it does not boil, or it may curdle, then pour over the fish, and serve. Time.— Altogether, about i hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. 489.— FLOUNDERS. (Fr— Carrelets en Souchet.) Ingredients. — 3 or 4 flounders, % a carrot, £ a turnip, i slice of parsnip, 6 peppercorns, i small onion, i small bunch of herbs, parsley, salt. Method. — Cut the carrot, turnip and parsnip into very fine strips and cook them till tender in slightly-salted water or fish stock. Trim the fish, and place it in a deep saute-pan, with the onion cut up in slices, the bunch of herbs and peppercorns, add a little salt, and pour on sufficient water to well cover the" fish. Allow it to come to the boil, and cook gently for about 10 minutes. Take up the fish and place it on a deep entree dish, sprinkle over the shredded cooked vegetables and some finely-chopped parsley, add a little of the fish liquor, and serve.

Time. — To cook 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable all the year, most plentiful from August to November.

490.— FLOUNDERS, BOILED. (Fr.— Carrelets bouillis.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized flounder, salt, vinegar. Method. — Wash the fish, put it into a fish-kettle with just sufficient water to cover it, add salt and vinegar to taste, bring gently to the boiling point, and simmer for 5 or 10 minutes, according to the thickness of the fish. Serve with a suitable sauce. Time. — After the water boils, 5 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to is. 6d. Sufficient, 6 ozs. to 8 ozs. per head, with bone. Seasonable all the year; most plentiful from August to November. FLOUNDER (Fr. carrelet [m], limandt I/]).— A flat-fish found in abundance on the British coasts, and near the mouths of large rivers. It also thrives in ponds. The flounder is brown on one side of its body and white on the other; its eyes are situated on the riq;ht side. The dab is closely allied to the flounder. The flounder is one of the commonest of fishes, and large quantities are sent to the London market. The Cesh of the flounder is cosily digested.

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RECIPES FOR COOKINC, KiSIl 331 491.— FLOUNDERS, BROILED. (Fr. — Carrelets Grilles.) Flounders, when sufficiently large, are very nice broiled on a gridiron over or in front of the fire, with a little bntter rubbed over. Small plaice cooked in the same manner arc excellent. 492.— FLOUNDERS, FRIED. (Fr.— Carrelets Frits.) Ingredients. — Flounders, egg and breadcrumbs, boiling fat, Method. — Cleanse the fish, and, 2 hours before they are required, rub them inside and out with salt, to render them firm. Wash and wipe them very dry, dip them into egg, and sprinkle over with brcadcrur fry them in boiling fat, dish on a folded napkin or fish paper, garnish with fried parsley.

Time. — To fry, from 10 to 15 minutes, according to size. A?erage Cost, jd. to is. each, according to size and season. Allow fro; to 8 ozs. per head for breakfast; rather less when served in the course of a dinner. Seasonable all the year; most plentiful from August to November.

493-— FROGS, STEWED. (Fr— Ragoflt dc Grenouilles.) Inffrtdlenta. — 6 or 8 frogs, salad-oil, $ of a pint of white wine, i tabiespoonfuls of truffle liquor, 8 fresh button mushrooms, ^ of a pint ot brown sauce, salt and pepper.

Method. — The hind -quarters of the frogs alone are used, and they should b« carefully separated from the rest of the body. Cover the bottom of a saut- h.1 thin layer of salad-oil, and when thoroughly hot place in it the frogs' legs. Fry quickly for * or 3 minn ing the legs once dun rocess, but most t,. Drain, place in a casserole, add th^ ]uor, mushrooms previously well-washed to free them from >on to taste. Stew very gently for about 30 minute*, i transfer carefully to a hot dish, and strain the wine into a small stewpan. Boil quickly until well reduced, then add the brown sat-. <m tn taste, make thoroughly hot, pour over the cooked frog, and 494.— GARFISH, STEWED. (Fr.— Brochct 4 1'Anglaise.) Ingredients.- j medium-sixed garfish, i onion sliced, a bouquct-garni af), 2 cloves, i blade of mace,, l} OM. of butter, i) Off. of flour, i pint of stock or water, salt and pepper.,

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Method. — Remove the skin, which would otherwise impart a disagreeable oily taste to the dish, and cut the fish into pieces i£ inches long. Bring the stock or water to simmering point, put in the fish, onion, herbs, mace, cloves, and a little salt and pepper, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Meanwhile melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and stir and cook slowly for 10 minutes without browning. /Strain the liquor from the fish on to the prepared butter and flour, stir until boiling, then season to taste, strain over the fish, and serve. Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 4 Note. — Garfish may also be boiled, broiled or baked, according to the recipes given for cooking eels and conger eels.

495.— GRAYLING, BAKED. (Fr.— Ombre roti.) Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized grayling, £ of a pint of melted butter, No. 202, butter for basting.

Method. — Empty, wash and scale the fish. Dry it well, place it in a baking-dish in which a little butter has been previously melted, and baste well. Season with salt and pepper, cover with a greased paper, and bake gently from 25 to 35 minutes, basting occasionally. Make the melted butter as directed, taking care that it is very thick, and a few minutes before serving strain and add the liquor from the fish. Place the fish on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, then serve. Time. — From 25 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable in July and August.

496.— GRAYLING, BROILED. (Fr.— Ombre a la Ingredients. — 4 small grayling, lemon-juice, salad-oil, salt and pepper. Method. — Empty, scale, wash and thoroughly dry the fish. Brush it over with salad-oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and broil over a clear fire until sufficiently cooked and nicely browned. Serve garnished with quarters of lemon.

Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable in July and August.

497.— GRAYLING, FRIED. (Fr.— Ombre frit.) Ingredients. — 4 small grayling, parsley sauce, No. 311, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Empty, scale, wash and dry the fish, remove the gills and fins, but leave the heads. Roll in flour seasoned with salt and pepper, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Serve with parsley and butter sauce, or any other sauce preferred.

Time. — To fry, 8 or 9 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable in July and August.

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REUl'1-.S F<>k moKlNr, FISH 333 ll-known fi^h i>.1 member of the carp family, and is found throughIt UMi.illv swims in shoals, ami inli tl ^reen tinted with blue, with a silvery-white belly, and bright red fins. It is in seaton from March to September.

498.— GUDGEONS. (Fr— Goujons Panes et Frits.) Ingredients. (. e^r. breadcrumbs. frvin Method. --t'le.m tl; ! remo\c the plls, but do not scrape off the scales. l>rv well, dip them in egg and breadcrumbs, and fry them in hot hi until nicely browned.

Time. -Krom 4 to 6 minutes to fry. Average Cost, 6d. per Ib. Allow j or 3 per hr.id. Seasonable irom June t<> November. ^oujcm). a member family, is fou- (lowing streams and ith black spots, the abdomen white. he gudgeon are i v-rr it a small barbule or hUment fish was esteemed ly both the Greeks and the Romans. It is abundant in 1 tuner a:: 499. -GURNET, OR GURNARD. (Fr.— Gournal.) Ingredients, i medium-sued gurnet, Method. • 1 \\d>h ' cut off the fins and ly just enough warm water to cover it.

put in the fish, brinv slowly to near Ixiil-.ng point, and cook gentlv t.»r.ith anch. sauce.

Time. — To boil, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from is. to. Sufficient f«>; Seasonable from Octobei but in a in Oci 500. -GURNET, BAKED. (l<r. Gournal auFour.) Ingredients, i in Method. lins and pll>.

re tlie 1«;.is directed, put it inside the fish, and s< e tail in the mouth of the fish, place it in a ith hot fat or butter, cover \sith ices of bacon, and ! moderate oven from 35 to 45 minutes. It m.t <>r anchovy sauce.

Time. — Altogether, about i hour. Average Cost, from is. to 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable from October t« > • MARD (Fr. ftmmmt).— This sea-water fish is remarkable for its curiously angular i« covered with bony plates, and armed with spines. The colour of UM ftns which varies in different species, b blue or red. The jaws are furnished with numerous sm The my and the r«d nvnet are the species molt common to our British coasts. The flying foratt "•n of the Indian seas, and is also found in the Mediterranean. The gurnet is an excellent t.H:

501. HADDOCK, BAKED. (Fr.— Eglefin au Four.) Ingredient Idock, veal foru.•Icnimbs, lit for basting.

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Method. — Wash, clean, and scale the fish. Make the forcemeat as directed, put it inside the haddock, and sew up the opening. Truss in the shape of the letter S. by means of a string securely fastened to the head of the fish, the trussing needle being passed through the body of the fish while held in the required shape, and the string afterwards secured to the tail. Brush over with egg, cover lightly with brown breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderate oven from 30 to 40 minutes, basting occasionally with hot fat. Serve with anchovy or melted butter sauce.

Time. — To prepare and cook, from i to i|- hours. Average Cost, from is. 2d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable from August to February.

502.— HADDOCK, BOILED. (Fr.— Eglefin bouilli.) Ingredients. — i large fresh haddock, salt.

Method. — Clean and wash the fish, cover it with warm ivater, add salt to taste, bring to the boil, and cook gently from 20 to 30 minutes. Serve with anchovy, parsley, or melted butter sauce.

Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, large haddocks, 8d. to is. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from August to February.

503.— HADDOCK, DRIED, AND TOMATOES.

(Fr. — Merluche fume aux Tomates.) Ingredients.— i small dried haddock, i oz. of butter, 2 or 3 small tomatoes, i teaspoonful of ftnely-chppped onion, -J- a tsaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper, boiled rice. Method. — Lay the haddock in a tinxwithalittlewater', and bake it for 10 minutes, then take away the skin°and bones, and separate the fish into large flakes. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the oaion slightly, add the tomatoes sliced, and cook until soft. * Now put in the fish and parsley, season to taste, and stir gently by the side of the fire until the fish is thoroughly hot. Arrange the boiled rice in a circle on a hot dish, and serve the fish in the centre of it.

Time. — 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 3 persons. 504.— HADDOCKS, DRIED. (Fr.— Merluche fume.) Dried haddocks are best cooked either in the oven or on the top of the stove in a tin surrounded by a little water to create steam, which prevents the surface of the fish becoming hardened. Medium-sized 'ones should be cooked whole, and before sending to table an incision should be made from head to tail, and the backbone removed. The fish should be plentifully spread with butter, sprinkled with pepper, SHd served as hot ad possible.

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505.— HADDOCK, FRIED. (Fr.— Eglefin frit.) i aiul dry a fresh haddock, cut down the back, separate the flesh iron tin- bone, and cut into nice fillets. Brush over with egg, cover lighly with breadcrumbs, and fry until golden-brown in hot iat. Ganish \\ith fried parsley.

THE IADDOCK (Fr. efUfi*).— This well-known fish belongs to the same family (Gadidat) as the cod, which itmuch res<-,,Hes in its general conformation. The lower jaw is furnished with a barbule, and the tark lateral line of the back is very conspicuous. A similar superstitution ascribes the dark spot on tther side of the body, behind the pectoral fins, to the impression of the thumb and finger of St. Pet-, as in the case of the marks on the John Dory. The haddock abounds on the north-east coast of B*ain and some parts of the coasts of Ireland. It is a popular article of food, and is eaten fresh, or dr-d and cured. The Finnan kaddock is the common haddock cured and dried, and tuk, -, its name fro* the fishing village of Findhorn, near Aberdeen, which has obtained a hi^h re for its meth4 of curing haddocks.

506.— HVKE, BAKED.

Ingredients— 4 slices off a medium-sized hake, i teaspoonful of fmely-choppd parsley, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, butter, salt and peper, flour.

Method — Vash and dry the fish, and place the slices side by side in a bating-dsh. Dredge well with flour, season liberally with salt and peppr, spread over on the parsley and butter, and add about i oz. of butter iiumail pieces. Bake gently for ^ an hour, basting occasionally, then pla* the fish on a hot dish, strain the liquor over it, and Time.-About * an hour. Average Cost, 4d. per Ib. Sufficient for 3 or 4 peons. Seasonable, April to August.

Notf. — ny of the methods given for cooking cod and halibut may be applied toake, but baking will be found the most palatable ctory. 507.-HLIBUT, BAKED. (Fr.— Halibute rotie.) Ingrediei. — 2 Ib. of halibut, cut in one thick slice, i oz. of butter or drippir, flour, salt and pepper..

Method. -Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, sprinkle it liberally with salt al pepper, and dredge well with flour. Place it in an eartlu n bakii-dish or pie-dish, add the butter in small pieces, and bake ly for xmt i hour. Serve on a hot dish with the liquid from tluiish ad poured round.

Time. —.tout i hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. 6d. per 11.. Sufficient for 4 or 5 arsons. Seasonable at any time.

THE H ALI« Fr. fUtan), Hififvgiatsus vtOgfru, also called the koltbut, b the largest of the flat fish, <?iRhs over 400 Ib. It is more elongated in shape than the turbot, to which it is in qml. its flesh being dry and of less flavour, although it is much esteemed as a Ublensh., t on both skies of the Atlantic on the coasts in northern latitudes, and i rids. The inhabitants of Greenland preserve it for use in the winter by cutting - and drying these in the air The 1:.libut U brownish in colour, with darker mai kings, ad,«hue on the under surface. An oil is obtained from this nsh, chiefly from the boon.

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508.- HALIBUT, BAKED. (Fr.— Halibute au lard.; Ingredients. — i slice of halibut, about 2 inches thick, ham or baon, butter, flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wipe the fish carefully, place it in a baking-dish in wlich a little butter has been melted, and season with salt and pepper. Dredge it liberally with flour, bake it in a moderate oven for 30 miiutes, basting frequently, and occasionally dredging with flour, then cover the entire surface with rashers of bacon or ham. Continue tc cook slowly for £ an hour longer, then serve on a hot dish with the^iquor strained over, and the ham or bacon arranged neatly round the^ase. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. 6d. per Ib. sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year.

509.— HALIBUT, BOILED. (Fr.— Halibute kmilli.) Ingredients. — 3 or 4 Ib. of halibut, £ a pint of anchovy, fo. 288, or shrimp sauce, or No. 314, i lemon, parsley, salt. Method. — Add salt to hot water in the proportion of i 02 to i quart, put in the fish, bring slowly to boiling point, and simme? very gently from 25 to 30 minutes, or until the fish will part easily fom Hie bone. Drain well, arrange on a hot serviette, garnished with sices <f lemon and parsley, and serve the sauce separately.

Time. — To boil, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. t< is. per Ib. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable at any time. 510.— HALIBUT, COQUILLES OR SCALLOB OF.

(Fr. — Coquilles de Hsibute.) Ingredients. — Cooked halibut, white sauce, No. 222, grated armesan cheese, salt and pepper, browned breadcrumbs, butter. Method. — Flavour the sauce to taste with Parmesan chees< Divide the fish into large flakes, put these into buttered scallop shls, cover with sauce, and sprinkle thickly with browned breadcrumbs^ To each add i or 2 small pieces of butter, cook from 15 to 20 miiites in a moderate oven, and serve.

Time. — To prepare and cook, from 30 to 40 minutes. Ajrage Cost, is. 3d. for 6 coquilles. Allow i for each person. Seasonle at any 511.— HALIBUT, FRIED. (Fr.— Halibute fre.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of halibut, anchovy or shrimp sauce, 3. 288 or 314, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, i tablespoonful of flo^ £ a teaspoonful of salt, | of a teaspoonful of pepper, parsley. Method. — Divide the fish into small thin slices. Mix th^our, salt and pepper together, coat the pieces of fish lightly with tl mixture, and afterwards brush them over with egg, and toss thenifc bread\\

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crumbs. Fry them in a deep pan of fat until crisp and lightly browned, or, if more convenient, in a smaller amount of hot fat in a frying-pan..narnishcd with crisply-fried parsley. Send the sauce to table tureen.

Time. — To fry, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to is. 6d. per Ib. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any tune. 512.— HALIBUT, GRILLED. (Fr.— Halibute grill*.) Ingredients. — Halibut, oiled butter, salt and pep] Method. Divide the fish into slices not more than | of an inch in thickness, brush them over with oiled butter, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Place the slices on a clean oiled gridiron, and cook for 10 or 12 minutes, turning them 2 or 3 times during >cess. Serve with lemon, or any fish sauce that may l>e prci Time.— From 10 to 12 minute^. Average Cost, 6d. to per ll>. or 7 o/. per ln-ail. Seasonable at any time.

513. HALIBUT PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Halibute.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of halibut, J of a pint of white sauce (see sauces), No. 222, or 223, i teaspoonful of anchovy-essei:-paste, or rough puff paste, salt and pepper.

Method. M.ike the sauce as directed, and add the anchovy-esv tish, remove all the bones, and di\i«:

> os. Place these in -ha good sprinkli Ijetween each layer. Cover with paste, hake- in a lairly hot u\en t«-r aNnit I hour, then serve Time. — To bake, about i hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. ad. pei lt>. 514.— HALIBUT PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Halibute.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of halibut, 2 ozs. of butter, } a pint of melted teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, salt and p:i puff-pa Method, Kt move all the skin and bone, and divide the fish into small Place these in a piedi. < rs, sprin, 1 jx-pper, ami mi -mall pieces of butter.

I lie melted butter;is directed, add the anchovy-cs^ our the sauce over the fi- it with;; hour in a in« Time. alxnit i hour. Average Cost, (kl. to is. 2(1 Sufllcient for o to 8 persons. Seasonable all the y

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515.— HALIBUT, STEWED.

Ingredients.^-3 or 4 Ib. of halibut, beer, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour i small onion stuck with 2 cloves, i bay-leaf, i teaspoonful of lemonjuice, salt and pepper.

Method. — This cooking process is particularly adapted for the head and shoulders. Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, put it into a stewpan, and barely cover it with beer. Add the onion, bay-leaf, and a little salt and pepper, and bring gently to boiling point. Knead the butter and flour smoothly together, add the mixture in small pieces to the contents of the stewpan when boiling, and simmer gently until the fish separates readily from the bone. Transfer the fish carefully to a hot dish, add the lemon-juice to the liquor, season to taste, strain and pour a little round the fish, and serve the rest separately. Time. — To stew, about £ an hour. Average Cost, 9d. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable all the year. Note. — Halibut may also be cooked according to the numerous methods given for dressing cod.

516.— HERRINGS, BAKED, FRESH. (Fr.— Harengs Frais.) Ingredients. — 12 herrings, 2 bay-leaves, 12 allspice, 6 cloves, a good pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper, vinegar.

Method. — Wash the herrings in 3 or 4 waters, cut off the heads, and remove the gut. Place them in a pie-dish, heads and tails alternately, sprinkle each layer with salt and pepper, and and the flavouring ingredients. Cover the fish with vinegar, or, when vinegar is not much liked, with equal quantities of vinegar and water, and bake for i£ hours in a very slow oven. Serve cold.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. to is. per dozen. Suffic/ent for 9 persons. Seasonable, May to November.

517.— HERRINGS, BAKED, FRESH.

Ingredients. — 12 fresh herrings, salt and pepper, vinegar, i or 2 Spanish onions.

Method. — Wash the herrings in 3 or 4 waters, cut off the heads, split them open, and remove the gut and backbone. Season well with salt and pepper, and roll them up tightly, beginning with the neck of the fish. Pack the herrings closely in a pie-dish, cover them with thin slices of onion, half fill the dish with equal quantities of vinegar and water, and bake in a very slow oven for 2 hours. When done, remove the onion, but let the fish remain in the dish in which they were cooked until ready to serve.

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518.— HERRINGS, FRESH, STUFFED AND BAKED.

Ingredients. — 6 herrings, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, £ of a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, salt and pepper, milk. Method. — Wash and split the herrings and remove the backbone. Mix the above ingredients to make a forcemeat; season each herring with salt and pepper, spread on a thin layer of the forcemeat and roll up tightly, beginning with the neck. Pack closely in a greased piedish, cover with greased paper, and bake from i to i^ hours in a moderate oven. Serve hot.

Time. — 1£ to i £ hours. Average Cost, $d. to 6d. Sufficient for 5 persons. Seasonable, May to November.

THE HERRING (Fr. kare*g) is widely distributed in the North Atlantic. During the greater part of the year this nsh inhabits deep water, but in the summer and autumn it frequents in vast shoals the wanner waters of the coasts of Scotland and the laststu coasts of PIUJJWI for the purpose of spawning. The herring is one of the most prottfk of 6th. and notwithstanding the devastation caused hj thr shells hv th- d...,-f-..h. h.ik* •£«••* • i !'• ttM VMtl:.: ' fe* 1 hrrri:,/ ' jgW L T},•MVBflttjr of this DSD is SQC& tnftt no MQSIDM docr£AM oc its Dtu&DCr is Apparent* TIM Dtmn£ fislMfy, especially that of the Scotch coasts and the eastern coast* of England, constitutes a most important;•: •• ••••-.. -:••--....'......;,,...,;..... - • •.••.... th'Kc. -..u-ht in thr...PU-!-.*.,,,::;...!,•: I - !» 1 -.-..• • !:-.*.,t..,-: 19 tl.K. !:. ^::.. t!:- !.;.:. -t >tkn for delicacy of flavour.

519.— HERRINGS, RED, OR YARMOUTH BLOATERS Method. — The best way to cook these is to make incisions in the skin across the fish, because they do not then require to be so long on the fire, and will be far better than when cut open. Place them on a buttered gridiron, broil over or before a clear fire for 5 minutes turning frequently. The hard roe makes a nice relish if pounded in a mortar, with a little anchovy, and spread on toast. If very dry, soak the bloaters in warm water i hour before dressing. Time.— 5 mi Werage Cost, *t\A. each. Seasonable, May tp ember.

520.— HERRINGS, POTTED.

Ingredients. — i dozen large herrings r pint of white vinegar, pepper >alt, 2 bav-leaves, clarified butt Method. — Remove the heads and tails from the herrings, wash, clean, and dry them, and sprinkle them inside and out with salt and pepper. Put the h an earthenware dish, lay the rocs beside them, and thrm \vith good white \inegar. Bake for 2 hours in a moderate out the bones, strain off the vinegar, pound the flesh in a ^ through a finp sipve, press into small pots, and pour clarified butter on the top.

Time.— 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. to o<l. per dozen. Sufficient for 4 pots. Seasonable from May to -r.

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521.— KEDGEREE.

Ingredients. — Any cold fish (dried haddock is generally preferred); to i Ib. of fish allow £ of a Ib. of rice, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper, cayenne.

Method. — Boil and dry the rice, divide the fish into small flakes, cut the whites of the eggs into slices, and rub the yolks through a wire sieve. Melt the butter in a ste'wpan, add to it the fish, rice, whites of eggs, salt, pepper and cayenne, and stir the ingredients over the fire until hot. Turn the mixture on to a hot dish, press it into a pyramidical form with a fork, decorate with the yolk of egg, and serve as hot as possible.

Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, lod. to is. 2d. Allow i Ib. fish for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 522.— LAMPREY, BAKED. (Fr.— Lamproie au Four.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized lamprey, suet farce, No. 407, i egg, breadcrumbs, fat for basting, anchovy sauce or any other fish sauce preferred, i lemon.

Method. — Rub the fish well with salt, wash it in warm water, and remove the cartilage and strings which run down the back. Fill the body with the prepared farce, sew it up securely, and fasten round 2 or 3 thicknesses of buttered or greased paper. Cover the fish with hot water, boil gently for 20 minutes, then drain and dry well. Put it into a baking-dish, in which a little butter or fat has been previously melted, and baste well. Bake gently for about £ an hour, basting frequently, then strip off the skin, brush the fish over with beaten egg, and coat it lightly with breadcrumbs. Bake the fish for about 20 minutes longer, or until nicely-browned, then serve it garnished with sliced lemon, and send the sauce to table in a tureen. Time. — About i-£ hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 4 or THE LAMPREY (Fr. lamproie) is an eel-like, scaleless fish, with gills in the form of a series of pouches on the side of the neck. Its mouth is circular, resembling a sucker, lined with a number of horny processes or teeth; it has no pectoral or ventral fins, but a median dorsal fin is continued backward to form a tail-fin. By its sucker-like mouth the lamprey attaches itself to its prey, from which it sucks the blood, respiration being carried on by the gills at the side of its neck. The lamprey was esteemed by the Romans, and during the Middle Ages it was regarded as a delicacy. Henry I. of England is said to have died from the effects of too free an indulgence in his favourite dish. 523.— LAMPREY, STEWED. (Fr.— Ragout de Lamproie.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized lamprey, £ of a pint of stock or water, i glass of port or sherry, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i lemon sliced, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 2 small onions sliced, 2 or 3 mushrooms or 6 button mushrooms, i bay-leaf, salt and pepper.

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COOftlNfi FISH Method. — \\'iish thoroughly in salted warm \\Mt-r. remove ill-t.ul and fins, and cut the fish across into 2 -inch lengths. Bring lock <>r w.i'.-r to boiling point, put in tin".<! neces-. ":iing. and simmer gently lor 4' hour, while melt the butter in another stcwp.m, Iry the <>m«>n slightly, then add the flour, and iry slowly until well-browned. When the fish has 1 i hour, pour the liquor from it over: ed butter and -tir until lx>iling, then put in the mushrooms, wine and lemonred sauce, simmer gently for \ an hour ith the sauce strained over, and gar >n.

Time.— T hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient 524.— LING, BAKED. (/•>.— Lingue Rotie.) Ingredients. 2 lb. of ling, 3 ozs. of butu r, i oz. of flour, | of a pint of milk, salt and pepper, ground n Method. — Wa- !i, and cut it into slices | « 1'ut thrsr into a bakiT utter, a pood easoning of salt and pcpp greas« and cook gently for i hour, hasting occasionally. rather more than ha:! I, mt-ll t:

until it ! h ami Tim--. i luxir. Average Cost.. Sullici. Seasonable i^ captured in v.i»t quati titk» off the Orkney, Shetland am! '. • of fish. Lane ling are come; bat they are BBiiij salted, dried, and exported to the toutbrrn puts of Europe, where the bye tab are not met with. In form the Un« boot vnttke the cod, but •aider, and grow* to the length of 6 or 7 fret Whan boiled it it insipid, but when fried or 525.— LING, FRIED. (/>— Lingue Frite.) Ingredients.— 2 lb. of ling, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, sal our.

Method.,d dry th» ! cut it into ri nkle them h flour. 1 th flour t addition of egg and brcadcruin!

Time. About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5,1. to 8d. per lb. Sufficient

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526.— LOBSTER IN ASPIC. (Fr.— Homard en Aspic.) Ingredients. — i large or 2 small lobsters, I pint of aspic jelly, 3 hardboiled eggs, a large lettuce, a few tarragon leaves, capers, olives stoned, and truffles; oil and vinegar, pepper and salt, Mayonnaise sauce (see Sauces).

Method. — Put into a quart border mould enough melted aspic jelly to thinly cover it, and when it begins to set, arrange in it the flesh of the body and claws of the lobster (which should be cut into neat pieces) with a few tarragon leaves and capers, filling up the mould with the jelly. Well wash, dry, and shred the lettuce, and mix with it the remainder of the lobster, the oil and vinegar, with pepper and salt.

When the mould is firmly set, turn it out and pile the salad in the centre, and around it as a border, masking it smoothly with a thick Mayonnaise sauce. Lastly, garnish the whole with the eggs cut up, the coral and the little claws of the lobster, the capers and truffles, etc.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 33. 6d., exclusive of sauce* THE LOBSTER (Fr. homard) is found on most of the rocky coasts of Great Britain, many European shores, and on the coasts of North America. It is especially partial to clear water, and inhabits the crevices of the rocks at the bottom of the shore. The lobster belongs to the order Decapoda, to the section Macroura, or " long tailed," and is one of the " stalk-eyed " crustaceans. The body of the lobster is composed of twenty segments or joints, of which six belong to the head, eight to the thorax<>r chest, and six to the abdomen. Its tail is composed of several flat shell-like plates which, when spread out in the form of a fan, is used as an organ for swimming. The first pair of ambulatory limbs form the characteristic powerful claws, the pincers of which are famished wi.th knobs, and the lower part is serrated. By means of the former it is enabled to hold firmly the stalks of sub-marine plants, and with the latter it minces its food with great dexterity. The lobster is very prolific, and when in spawn the female is said to be " in berry, the developing eggs being attached to the tafl. Unlike the crab, the young lobster does not undergo any metamorphosis in passing from -the egg to the adult state. like others of its tribe, the lobster casts its shell each year. It is usually caught by pots specially constructed, made of osiers, shaped somewhat like a wire mouse-trap, and baited with garbage. When the lobster enters the trap it cannot get out again. The traps are fastened to a cord and sunk in the sea, the place being marked by a buoy. In colour the lobster is of a deep bluishblack, mottled with markings of a lighter hue; on being boiled it changes to its familiar scarlet colour. Large quantities of lobsters are caught on the coasts of North America, and are exported in large quantities to this country. By the Fishery Act of 1877, no lobsters under 8 inches in length may be captured, and by some local bye-laws of the Sea Fisheries' Committee a close season is fixed. 527.— LOBSTER, BAKED. (Fr.— Homard au Gratin.) Ingredients. — i lobster, i£ ozs. of butter, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, i egg, the juice of % a lemon, i dessertspoonful of finelychopped parsley, -J- a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallots, brown breadcrumbs, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the lobster in two lengthwise, remove the meat from the shells, and mince it coarsely. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallots for 2 or 3 minutes without browning, then add the lobster, wku£e sauce, parsley, lemon-juice, a pinch of ^niUmeg, as well as salt ancf pepper to taste; then stir over the fireTjun'til thoroughly hot. Beat the egg slightly, add it to the mixture, arid cook until it begins to bind., Have ready the two halves of the large, shell, put in the mixture, cover lightly with brown breadcrumbs, put. 3 or 4 ver^ small

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pieces of butter on the top, and bake for 10 or 15 minutes in a moderate oven. Garnish with fried parsley.

Time. — V an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. 528.— LOBSTERS, TO BOIL. (Fr.— Homards.) Ingredients. — ^ of a Ib. of salt to each gallon of water. Method. — Buy the lobsters alive, and choose those that are heavy and full of motion, which is an indication of their* freshness. When the shell is encrusted, it is a sign they are old: medium-sized lobsters are the best. Have ready a stewpan of boiling water, sal ted in the proportion mentioned above, put in the lobsters and keep them boiling quickly from 20 to 45 minutes, according to their size, and do not forget to skim well. If boiled too long, the meat becomes thready, and if not done enough, the spawn is not red. Rub the shells over with a little butter or sweet oil, which must be wiped off again. Time.— Small lobster, 20 minutes to | an hour; large ditto, i to J of an hour. Average Cost, medium size, is. to 33. 6d. Seasonable all the year, but best from June to September.

To CMOOSI LomrrtM.— Thi» shdl-ftsh. U it has been cooked alive, as it ou«ht to have heeo, will have a stiffness in the tail, which. U gent!? rai.xl. wOl return with a spoof. Care, however, mutt.. provint it. for if the tail U putted str*i«ht out, it will not return. In order to be food, lobsters shooli be weithtv for th-ir bulk: if l>:ht. thrr will be watery those of the ibedium sUe are always the best. The* should be broad acrow the taiL The coral U red. The •pawn it lo-uetimes sold uncooked at id. per ounce, and U then dark green, bat U becomes red on oookint. It «hould be nibbed throufh a sieve with a little butter. It is used to colour sauces for cutlets, etc. SmalUised lobsters are cheap set, and answer very well for sauoa. 529. -LOBSTER, COQUILLES OF. vFr.-Coquilles de Homard.) Ingredients. — I lobster, mushrooms, butter, white sauce (No. 222), salt, pepper, nutmeg, short crust paste. parMethod.— Line some small shell-shaped moulds with light paste crust. After pricking the paste with a fork nil the lined moulds with uncooked rice or dried peas, and bake them in a moderate oven a golden-brown. When done, take out the rice or peas, and place the pastry shells on a sieve. Cut the meat of the lobster (preserved lobster of a reliable will do) into small dice, put it in a stewpan with some chopped mushrooms and butter, allowing 8 mushrooms and | an oz. of butter ry $ Ib. of lobster. Si; he fire until thoroughly hot, then •i with white sauce. Season with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and a pinch of cayenne. Keep the mixture hot in a bain-marie so that it is ready for use when required. Warm the baked shells in ven, fill them with the mixture, strew over a little panurcUe (a preparation of grated rusks, used instead of lobster coral for decoratried breadcrumbs; the former, however, makes th< more • • h upon small plates, and garnish with a sprig or two ot A little anchovy-essence added to the mixture will iluvour o

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Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable from April to October.

530.— LOBSTER CREAM (Hot). (Fr.— Creme de Homard, Chaude.) Ingredients. — i lobster, i oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, £ of a pint of milk, £ of a pint of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper, cayenne. Method. — Melt the butter in a small stewpan, add the flour, pour in the milk, and stir over the fire until the panada (or culinary paste) leaves the sides of the stewpan clear, and forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon, then put aside to cool. Cut one claw of the* lobster into small dice, and set aside until wanted; pound the rest of the lobster in a mortar with the panada, yolks of eggs, and seasoning. Rub the mixture through a wire sieve into a basin, add the dice of lobster, and the cream (stiffly -whipped), and mix all well, but lightly, together. Turn into a well-buttered mould, cover with a buttered paper, and steam very gently for i hour. The saucepan must have a close-fitting lid to keep in the steam. The water should reach about half-way up the mould. Serve with a suitable sauce. Time. — About if hours, altogether. -Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 531.— LOBSTER CREAM (Cold). (Fr.— Mousse de Homard, a la Supreme.) Ingredients. — i small lobster, 2 whitings, i gill of cream, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, i gill of fish stock made from bones of the whitings, 4 eggs, salt, paprika pepper, cayenne.

Method. — Skin the whitings, remove the bones, and use the latter for the fish stock required. Split the lobster, take the meat from the shell, cut it into small pieces, pound it with the whitings together in a mortar, then pass through a wire sieve. Make a panada with i oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, and the gill of fish stock, and work it thoroughly. Return the whiting puree to the mortar with the panada, mix well, and work in the yolks of 4 and the- whites of 2 eggs. When well pounded pass all through a hair sieve, season with salt, paprika pepper, and a little cayenne. Whisk the 2 whites of eggs to a stiff froth, also whip the cream, and add to the mixture. Have ready a plain charlotte or souffle mould, well buttered, three parts fill it with the above preparation, cover with buttered paper, place it in a stewpan containing some boiling water, and steam very gently for about | of an hour. Serve very hot with Supreme sauce poured over the cream. A little more cream may be added to the mixture than the above given quantity if a richer dish is desired.

Time. — To steam about £ hour. Average Cost, 35. to 35. 6d. Suffi-

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i. Soused Mackerel.

2. Souchet of flounders. 3. Scalloped Cod's Roe.

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IPES POH < noKINV, FISH 532.— LOBSTER CURRY. (/•>.— Homard au Kari.) Ingredients, i lobster (or tinned lobster of a reliable j of a pint <>t ii*h stock and milk jnixed, or all mill !. i t.iblespoonful of grated cocoanut, i dessertspoonful of curry- p< I teaspoon ful of flour, i tcaspoonful < ozs. of but tor, i large onion, i apple (green gooseberries or rhubarb may be i tuted, -n-juice.

Method. M'lt the butter in a stcwpan, put in the onion (coarsely chopped), the flour and curry-powder, and fry these gently ' minutes. Add the stock, milk, curry-paste, cocoanut, sliced and s.' •:! it l*>i:;mmer for i hour, stirring occasional n the it into inch-square pieces. When the ready, rub it through a fine sir urn it to the sau< seasoning to taste, and rc-lv jn.int, put in the pieces of lobs t.tnd draw tin m the side of the sto\ <>r j«> mi \ the lol natcd with the t! sauce, a- •: juue » boiled t; Ti rat.— About Average Cost,;*. to 2*. 6<L Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from April to October. -ill cases the bsh mu 533. -LOBSTER CUTLETS. (Fr— Cotclcttes dc Homard.) Ingredients, i hen l<>)>ster. 1} ozs. of batter, I oz. of flour, | of a pint of milk or water, i tablespoon ful of cream, i egg, breadcrumbs, v vmg fat.

Method. — Remove the flesh from tl small 1 the spawn (if any) with J an oz. of butter, and pass.1 small.idd the milk, and Ixul well. i to mould, make it up «l breadcrumb, a1 ntil •rowned in hot fat. Dish in a « • utlct to represent a b< rarmsh with ' I Timr Aftriff Cost,: 'o 2s. jd.

Sunicient ' i 9 Of 1O s ts. SMftOBable from April to Oct<

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534.— LOBSTER CROQUETTES. (Fr.— Croquettes de Homard.) For formula see Chicken Croquettes, or use recipe given in tinned food section.

535._LOBSTER DEVILLED. (Fr.— Homard a la Ingredients. — i good lobster, 3 tablespoonfuls of white breadcrumbs, a few browned breadcrumbs, i£ ozs. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce or cream, cayenne.

Method. — Cut the lobster in two lengthwise, remove the meat carefully, as the large shell must be kept whole, and chop the meat finely. Melt the butter, pour it on to the lobster, add the breadcrumbs, and white sauce, season rather highly with cayenne, and mix well. Press the mixture lightly into the lobster shell, cover with browned breadcrumbs, put 3 or 4 pieces of butter on the top, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve hot or cold. Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 23. to 35. Sufficient 536.— LOBSTERS, TO DRESS.

Wash the lobster well before boiling, tie the claws securely, and throw the lobster, head first, into a saucepan of salted boiling water: this method instantly destroys life. Then boil the lobster gently from 20 to 40 minutes, according to its size, but avoid overcooking, which causes the flesh to become hard. When cool enough to handle, rub over with a little salad-oil to brighten the colour. When quite cold, break off the claws and tail, and divide the latter lengthwise by the line running from head to tail. Place the body upright in the centre of a dish, with one-half of the tail on either side, and at the ends arrange the claws, which should previously be cracked with a hammer without injuring the flesh. The dish should be garnished tastefully with Time. — From 20 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 35. 6d. each, according to size.

537.— LOBSTER, BAKED, FRENCH STYLE.

(Fr. — Homard au Gratin.) Ingredients. — i lobster, 4 tablespoonfuls of white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, pounded mace and cayenne to taste, bread-crumbs, puff Method. — Pick the meat from the shell, and cut it up into small square pieces, put the stock, cream and seasoning into a stewpan, add the lobster, and let it simmer gently for 6 minutes. Serve it in

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KECIPES FOR COOKING FISH 347 the shell, which must be nicely cleaned, and have a border of puff-paste. Cover it with breadcrumbs, place small pieces of butter over, and brown before the fire, or with a salamander. If tinned lobster is used, a shallow pie-dish replaces the shell.

Time. — £ of an hour. Average Cost, js. 6d. Sufficient for 4 persons. 538.- LOBSTER MAYONNAISE. (Fr.— Mayonnaise de Homard.) Ingredients. — I large lobster, 4 lillcted Gorgona anchovies, i hardegg, 6 stoned olives, 4 gherkins, a few slices of pickled beetroot, a t iblespoonful of capers, i 1 irgeo r 2 small let u, onnaise s.. Method. — Cut the lobster in two lengthwise, break the claws carefully, remove the meat intact, if possible, and cut the remainder of the lobster into small pieces. Wash and dry the lettuce, tear it into small pieces, put it into a bowl with the small pieces of lobster, and add ally sufficient Mayonnaise to moisten the whole. Arrange this in the centre of a round dish in the form of a dome, mask it \\ith very stiff Mayonnaise sauce, and surround it with pieces of boiled egg. Garnish tastefully with strips of anchovy, strips or of gherkin, fancifully-cut pieces of beetroot, olives, and capers. Keep until required, and serve as cool as pos> Time. — Half an hour. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 4$. Sufficient for 6 to 8 persons. Seasonable from April to October. 539.— LOBSTER PATTIES. (Fr.— Petits Patts dc Homard.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of puff-paste, i small lobster, i$ ozs. of butter. i of an oz. of flour, the yolks of 3 eggs, $ of a pint of fish stock or milk (about), $ a gill of cream, | a teaspoonful of Icmon-jui drops of anchovy -essence, cayenne, salt, parsley.

Method.— When giving the paste its last turn, roll it out to a thickness of I an inch, and with a hot wet cutter of 2} inches di. out 8 or 9 rounds of paste. Brush them over with a beaten egg, to about | the depth of the paste with a:

ter cutter, previously dipped in hot water. Bake them in a hot oven from 20 to 25 minutes, then remove and take care of the tops, scoop out the soft inside, and keep the patty-cases warm. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook a few minutes, then pour in the fish stock or milk, and stir until the sauce boils. Simmer ior 10 minutes, add the cream, yolks of eggs, lemon-juice, anchovy-essence, and seasoning to taste, simmer gently until the yolks of the eggs thicken, then pass through a cloth or hne sieve. Return to the stewpan, put in the lobster (cut into dice); when thoroughly hot put into the put on the coven, garnish with parsley, and

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Time. — | hour after the paste is made. Average Cost, is. 8d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 8 or 9 patties. Seasonable from April to October.

540.— LOBSTER, POTTED. (Fr.— Terrine de Homard.) Ingredients. — 2 lobsters, 6 ozs. of butter, ground mace, grated nutmeg, Method. — Remove the meat carefully from the shell, keeping the pieces as large as possible. Put them into a baking-dish with |- of the butter, add a sprinkling of mace and nutmeg, season well with salt and pepper, cover with a dish or 2 or 3 folds of well-greased paper, and bake in a gentle oven for about i hour. Lift the pieces of lobster carefully into small pots, and pack them as close together as possible, otherwise a large amount of butter will be required. Strain the butter over them, and when cold cover with clarified butter.

Time. — 1£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, for this quantity, 35. 6d. to 45. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 small pots.

541.— LOBSTER, RAGOUT OF. (Fr.— Ragout de Homard.) Ingredients.-— i large lobster, i gill of white sauce, No. 222, \ a gill of fish stock or water, 2 yolks of eggs, i oz. of butter, mace, pepper and Method. — Remove the flesh from the shell, keeping it as whole as possible, and divide into pieces i inch square. Pound the spawn in a mortar with the butter, add a pinch of mace and salt and pepper to taste, and pass the mixture through a fine sieve. Put the sauce and stock into a stewpan, boil up, season to taste, and add the yolks of eggs, spawn, butter and lobster. Cook gently for a few minutes to remove the raw taste of the eggs, then serve.

Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 35. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, from April to October. 542.— LOBSTER RISSOLES. (Fr. - - Rissoles de Homard.) Ingredients. — i small lobster, puff-paste trimmings, i yolk of egg 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce or fish sauce, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, cayenne, egg and breadcrumbs, frying-fat. Method. — Remove the flesh of the lobster from the shell, and chop it finely. Put it into a saucepan with the yolk of egg, white sauce, parsley, and a pinch of cayenne, and stir over the fire until thoroughly hot. Season to taste, turn it on to a plate, and put aside until cold. Roll the paste out as thinly as possible, stamp out into rounds about 2 inches in diameter, and place a little of the lobster preparation in the

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RECIPES FOR COOKINC. FISH 349 isten the edge of the paste with cold water, fold over in a halt -moon shape, and coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, or. if preferred, egg and crushed vermicelli. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat, fry the rissoles to a golden-brown colour, then drai: Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d to is. lod. Suflku about 10 rissoles. Seasonable at any t 543.— LOBSTER SALAD. (Fr.— Salade de Homard.) Ingredients. — i hen lobster, lettuces, cn«! ill salad o. a little chopped beetroot, 2 hard-boiled eggs, a of cucuiulx-r. For dres^ jx>onfuls of oil, j tahlespoonfuls isponnful of r.s Of 2 eggS, Ca « aspoonful of anchovy sauce. These innts should U: mixed p.:m>oth, an«l fi»nn;i crramy sauce. Method. - Wash the salad, and thoroughly ilry it 1-v slukrni; it in a cloth. Cut up thr lettuces and endive, pour the dressing on them, ami l, n the small salad. Blend all well to*:* at of the lobster. 1 meat from the claws, cut B pieces, put half in the salad, and reserve the other.,'. Separate the yolks from the whites of 2 hard-boiled and rub the yolks through he salad lightly on a glass -1 garnish with cucumber, then with the pieces and uhiH-s «,f thr Qgp, v.ral and !

>.irate groups, so that the colours conn fd.

Time. \ Btet. Average Cost, js. (+\. Sufnctont Seasonable from April to < > 544. -MACKEREL, BAKED. />. -Maquercau Farci i la Maitre d'Hotel.) Ingredients, -j mackerel of medium size, veal forcemeat (*e* Force•/. of but..t-t dripping, pepper and salt, t! Method. ("Iran t!:.K-S. put in thr forcemeat, it thorn \vith thr PK-i into a 1;«'1<1 ti,,1-M- with Hour. sprinkK- udl with s.i. •4'»mini: nig occasionally.

parsley sauce, or melted I Tlmo Average Cost, Suillctent for 4 or 5 persons. Btmniita from April t<» |ul\.

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545.— MACKEREL, BOILED, WITH PARSLEY SAUCE.

(Fr. — Maquereau Bouilli.) Ingredients. — 2 mackerel, water, salt, parsley sauce (No. 311). Method. — Remove the roes, wash the fish, put them into the fishkettle, with just sufficient hot water to cover them, and add salt to taste. Bring the water gently to near boiling point, then draw the kettle aside, and cook very gently for about 10 minutes. If cooked too quickly, or too long, the skin is liable to crack, and spoil the appearance of the fish. It is a sure indication that the fish is sufficiently cooked when the skin becomes loose from the flesh. Drain well, place the mackerel on a hot dish, pour over them a little parsley sauce, and serve the remainder separately in a tureen. Fennel and anchovy sauces may also be served with boiled mackerel.

Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 9d. each. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to July. THE MACKEREL (Fr. maquereau) is not only one of the most elegantly shaped, but one of the most beautifully coloured of the fish that frequent our coasts. The characteristic metallic lustre of its body is familiar to all. The mackerel is a migratory fish, and visits in enormous shoals the coasts of England in May and June, and those of Scotland in July and August. It is captured by means of drift-nets, in which it is caught by entangling its head in the meshes. The mackerel spawns in May and June. The Romans were acquainted with this fish, and made from its fat the celebrated " sarum," or " relish." The mackerel rarely exceeds the weight of 2 Ib.; its ordinary length is between 14 and 20 inches. When taken out of the water it dies immediately, and for a short time emits a phosphorescent light.

546.— MACKEREL, BROILED. (Fr. — Maquereau Grille.) Ingredients. — i large mackerel, a little salad-oil, or butter, salt and Method. — Do not wash the fish, but wipe it clean and dry. Split it down the back, sprinkle it well with seasoning, and brush lightly over with salad-oil or warm butter. The fish has a more delicate flavour if wrapped in a well-buttered paper, but it may be broiled without it. The fire must be clear, and the fish should be turned frequently. Allow 15 to 20 minutes for a mackerel of medium-size, and a few minutes longer when broiled in paper. Serve with Maitred'Hotel butter or Maitre d'Hotel sauce (No. 200).

Time. — 15 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to lod. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable from April to July.

547.— MACKEREL, FILLETS OF. (Fr.— Filets de Maquereau a la Bechamel.) Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized mackerel, £ of a pint of Bechamel sauce, i£ ozs. of butter, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper. Method. — Wash, dry, and fillet the fish. Melt the butter in a sautepan, and fry the fillets without browning them. Remove the fish and keep it hot, put in the Bechamel sauce, and bring nearly to boiling point; then return the fish to the stewpan, cover closely, and simmer

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REcir;: COOKING FISH gently for 10 minutes. Remove the fish carefully to a hot dish, add the lemon-juice to the sauce, season ii necessary, and strain over the Time. — About | an hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable from April to July.

548.— MACKEREL, PICKLED. (Fr.— Maquereau Marin6.) Ingredients. — 2 or 3 mackerel, | a pint of vinegar, water, 12 peppercorns, 2 bay-leaves, allspice, salt and pepper. Method. — Clean and wash the fish and take out the roes. Place the mackerel in an earthenware baking-dish with the roes (mackerel are 1 that part of the season when the roes are not full grown), sprinkle them well with salt and pepper, add the bay-leaves, allspice, peppercorns,;, and about ^ of a pint of water, cover with a greased paper, ike in a cool oven for nearly i hour. Let them remain in the r until required.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d. to is. each. Sufficient: or 5 persons. Seasonable from April to Julv.

549.— MACKEREL, SMOKED. (Fr.— Maquereau fume.) Ingredients. — Mackerel, common salt, to each 8 ozs. of which add I oz..Itpetre.

Method. — Clean and open the fish, empty the inside and dry ighly. Cover thicklv with salt and saltpetre, let them remain -•4 to 36 hours, according to size, then.:ig the mackerel in a row by means of a stick pushed through the sockets of the eye, and dry them in the sun or expose them to the heat of the fire for. If the ordinary mea king in the chimney ulablc they should be employed; if not, half fill an old cask, open at both ends, with sawdust, put a red-hot iron in the middle of r (1 the fish across the cask, which must bo covered to keep in the In about 30 hours the fish will be ready.

550.— MULLET, GREY. (Fr.— Surmulet.) Ingredients. — 4 grey mullet.

Method. -Clran the fish, and, if very large, place them in warm ill, they may be r, and cooked minutes. Serve with anchovy or melted butter Time.— From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is, oxl. t< i small mullet to each person. Seasonable all the year, but rom July to October.

(Pr.mnM*Obq«itoadUh«Mt •* Iron Iht rad araDtt, wMch b*mp to OM faiwlyol the */„«.*,. The gwy, or tnM nmlWt, of UM Umfly *«*}*«, b fouod i co4,tv 4r.a.UUui* to the IrriRth rf * M M

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551.— MULLET RED, GRILLED, MAITRE D'HOTEL STYLE. (Fr— Rougets grilles a la Maitre Ingredients. — 3 or 4 fish, salad-oil, maitre d'hotel or parsley butter, Method. — Procure 3 or 4 fresh red mullet, wipe them with a damp cloth, and make 3 or 4 incisions across each fish with a sharp knife. Put the fish on a dish, pour over them 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of saladoil, season with salt and pepper, and let them stand thus for about i hour. Meanwhile, prepare some Maitre d1 Hotel butter, made with i oz. of butter, chopped parsley, and lemon juice. See that the gridiron is perfectly clean, and the fire suitable for grilling. Grease the gridiron, place the red mullet on it, and cook them slowly over, or in front of, a bright fire, turning frequently. When done put some Maitre d'Hotel butter on a dish, place the red mullets upon this, spread a little more Maitre d'Hotel butter on top of each fish, garnish with fresh parsley, and serve hot.

Time. — To grill, from i o to 12 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 33. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time, but best in the in summer.

552.— MULLET RED, GRILLED. (Fr.— Rougets Grilles.) Ingredients. — 3 moderate-sized fish, 2 ozs. of butter, i dessertspoonful finely-chopped parsley, pepper and salt, the juice of a lemon. Method. — After cleaning the fish, replace the livers with some finelychopped parsley and seasoning, mixed with butter. Wrap each fish in an oiled paper, sprinkling over them some of the seasoning, and grill them over a red fire, holding a salamander above so as to avoid turning them. When done, squeeze the juice of the lemon over them, and Time. — To grill, from 10 to 12 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time, but most plentiful in summer.

553.— MULLET RED, IN CASES. (Fr.— Rougets en Papillottes.) Ingredients. — 4 small red mullet, £ an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, £ a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, a glass of sherry, salt, cayenne, oiled paper.

Method. — Clean the fish, remove the fins and gills, but leave the inside, as the liver is considered the choicest part of the fish. Fold each mullet in oiled or buttered paper, and bake gently from 20 to 25 minutes. Knead the butter and flour smoothly, add it, together with the anchovy essence and the sherry, to the liquor which has oozed from the fish,

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•Hops an Gratio. 3.— Red Mallet. ^.-Torboi. 4.- Cod Steak. y-Frted Sole. Mayonnaise of Salmon 7.-Salmon au Nature!. 8.- Brown Troat. 9.— Smelu.

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RECIPES FOR COOKINV, nsil 353 n to taste, and simmer for 10 minutes. Serve the fish without the •, and the sauce in a sauce boat.

Time. — About 35 minutes, altogether. Average Cost, js. (A. to 35. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time, but more plentiful in 554.— MULLET, RED, WITH TARTAR SAUCE.

(Fr. — Rougets Sauce Tartare.) Method. — Prepare and cook the fish as in tl..ng recipe, but without the paper cases, or grill them, and serve with Tartar (see Sauces, No. 2 555.— MUSSELS. (Fr.— Moules.) Ingredients, i quart of mussels, i oz. of butter, | an oz. of i tablcspoonful of \ -poonful Method. — Brush the shells thoroughly, and wash the musv Put them into an iron saucepan wit:

into a steamer). Sprinkle with a little salt, spread a cl«-.m wot cloth and let them cook in tho steam until the shells open a little. Take them out of the shells, and strain tho liquor into a basin. Carefully remove the little weed which is found under the Mack tongi the butter, add the flour, and cook for 3 or 4;*mr in tho mussel \n\\. ^ils. Cool ->r and, oason; by tho side <»f if.:1 th« «• i;s il !'nt in -els to re 111'- xai:

Time. — About \ an hour. Averafe Cost. Kd. Sufnciet persons. Seasonable all tl 556. OYSTERS DEVILLED. (Fr.— Huitres d la Ingredients. — i dozen oysters, i oz. of butter, cayenne, salt, lemon, brown bread, butter.

Method. — Open the oysters carefully so as to preserve as much of the as possible, and lea\ shells. Sprinkle tin in 1 more liberally with i avenne. and to ea< h «»i. a small sters on a gi slow fire until thoroughly heated, then serve with sliced lemon and thin brown bread <T.

Time. ^ mm ook. Averaff Cost, 2S. per Seasonable nl.

557. OYSTERS, FRICASSEED. (Fr- Fricass6c aux Huitrcs.) Ingredients. 18 large oysters, 2| ozs. <»i liuiier, 4 i«.ur,

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i gill of white stock, £ of a gill of cream, the yolks of 3 eggs, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, nutmeg, white pepper, 10 small heartshaped slices of fried bread.

Method. — Open the oysters, preserve the liquor, remove the beards, put the oysters in a stewpan with i oz. of butter and a little oyster liquor. Season with a pinch of salt, a grating of nutmeg, and a pinch of pepper. Stir over the fire for 2 minutes and strain. Melt the remaining i£ ozs. of the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, cook slightly without browning and dilute with the liquor from the oysters, the remainder of the oyster liquor, and the stock. Stir until it boils, simmer for about 10 minutes, then add the cream, the yolks of the eggs, and the lemon-juice, and stir the mixture over the fire a few seconds longer to bind the yolks. Pass the sauce through a fine strainer or tammy-cloth, put it in a saucepan with the oysters, heat thoroughly, but on no account allow it to boil. Serve on a hot dish, garnished with croutes of fried bread and a few sprigs of parsley. Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 33. 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable from September to April.

558.— OYSTERS, FRIED. (Fr.— Huitres f rites.) Ingredients. — i dozen oysters, fritter batter, % a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, £ of a saltspoonful of grated lemon rind, fry ingfat.

Method. — Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, strain just before boiling point is reached, drain and dry them well. Make the batter as directed, and add the parsley and lemon-rind. Dip each oyster separately in the batter, fry in hot fat until crisp and lightly browned, then drain well and serve.

Time. — To fry, about 4 minutes. Average Cost, 2S. per dozen. Seasonable from September to April.

559.— OYSTER FRITTERS. (Fr.— Beignets aux Huitres.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 12 large oysters, 3 ozs. of flour, £ of a pint of tepid water, i tablespoonful of salad-oil or oiled butter, the whites of Z eggs, salt, frying-fat.

Method. — Make a batter by stirring the water and salad-oil, gradually into the flour; when perfectly smooth add the salt, and lastly the stiffly whipped whites of eggs. Beard the oysters, dip them in the batter, and fry them in hot fat until they acquire a golden-brown colour. Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 6 THE OYSTER (Fr. huitre). — This delicious mollusc is the type of the family Otsraeidae, the members of which are characterized by their inequivalve shells, i.e., one half or valve being larger than the other. The valves are connected with a bundle of strong nerves in the body of the oyster, and by their means the bivalve is able to hold its shells tightly together. The oyster is most prolific, its fertilized

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K» are known as spat, and enormous quantities of ova are produced from May to September, llie pat on becoming free consists of a tiny body enclosed within a minute shell, and is furnished with laments by which it nrst swims freely about, and then fixes itself to some substance, lite oyster, iuch possesses a complete digestive system, consisting of a mouth, stomach, intestine and liver, btains its food from the minute organisms or particles of matter which flow into its mouth by the trrents of water which pass through its gills. From the time of the Romans, who highly appreciated M oysters of Britain, thb sheB-ST has been a favourite deUcacr, not only for its rich flavour spends upon its feeding ground, but also for the nutritive qualities it possess*!, making it especially leful for invalids. Oysters attain their foil growth in about three yean, and in their attached state *m " oyster-beds "; the most celebrated of those in England are the Whitstabie and Colchester sds. Oysters are largely cultivated in France, rvrnrnar^fi^ttaod, Portugal, and A meric*, and Urr« tantities are imported into Great Britain from the Continent and the United States. Owing to,<!rr'.;, -.^r'-.l,.t !.:,•.! Md taBM *N I---".- MlOMr]; •;,.rr.l N. W laws relating to the capture and preservation of oysters are in force, and the oyster fishery to under the control of Fishery Boards, subject to the Board of Trade. The dote time far deep-sea oysters is from June 13 to August 4, and for other kinds from May 14 to Angu 560.— OYSTER FRITTERS. (Fr.— Beignets aux Huitres.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 12 oysters, 12 small thin slices of bacon, J a lemon '^-f:vt, trying-batter.

Method. — Sprinkle the oysters with lemon-juice, and roll each one lice of bacon just large enough to enclose it. Make the batter as directed, No. t in the prepared oysters one or two at a time, take them out on the point of a skewer, drain slightly, and at once drop them into hot fat. Fry a pale golden-brown colour, drain well, icd parsli Time. — To fry, about 4 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. per dozen.

56 1. -OYSTERS, TO KEEP.

Place them in a tub or nther suitable vessel, cover with salt and the oysters remain undisturbed for 12 hours, then drain off iter. Allow them to stand another 12 hours without water, n repeat the process until required for use.

562. -OYSTERS, MARGUERITE STYLE. (Fr.— Huitres a la Marguerite.) Ingredients.— i dozen large oysters, i a stick of celery (white part ly), 1} ozs. of butter, i glass of sherry, i teaspoon ful of cornflour, large picked shrimps, a little stock, lemon-juice, seasoning, and.—Beard the oysters, cut them in halves, and blanch them i'.ior. which should be preserved. Wash and trim the fcfl portions, chop r well on a: oz. of butter in the chafing-dish or idd the o • m minutes. Then add the oysters, and their liquor, and season with salt and p c cornflo I stock, and incorporate this with the: s, etc. Stir until it boils, adding a little more stock to moisten. th a few drops of lemon- juice, and add the shrimps. Put ler of the butter, and cook very gc minutes, hopped parsley, and serve from the chafing-dish.

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Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 35. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to April. 563.— OYSTERS, MARINER'S FASHION. (Fr.— Papillons d' Huitres, a, la Mariniere.) Ingredients. — 18 sauce oysters, \ glass Chablis, i tablespoonful of chopped parsley, i tablespoonful of chopped shallots, i oz. of fresh breadcrumbs, i oz. of butter, \ a lemon, salt and pepper. Method. — Beard the oysters, and put them with their liquor in a piedish; pour the white wine over them, and let it stand for about an hour. Mix the parsley, chopped shallots, and breadcrumbs, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Range the oysters in a buttered fireproof baking-dish, pour over a little of the liquor and wine, and cover with the mixture of breadcrumbs, etc. Divide the remainder of the butter into small pieces, and place them on top. Bake in a fairly hot oven for about 15 minutes. Squeeze a little lemon-juice on top, and send to table in the baking-dish.

Time. — To bake, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 35. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from September to April. 564.— OYSTER OMELET. (Fr. — Omelette aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — 6 eggs, 6 oysters, i tablespoonful of white sauce or fish sauce, i tablespoonful of milk, salt and pepper, i oz. of butter. Method. — Blanch the oysters in their own liquor without allowing them to boil, then divide them in halves or quarters, and mix with them the sauce, and seasoning to taste. Beat the eggs well, add the milk, and salt and pepper to taste. Melt the butter in an omelet pan, when hot pour in the eggs, stir until the mixture begins to set, then place the oyster preparation in the centre, fold the sides in, finish cooking, and serve.

Time. — Altogether, 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2S. 6d. 565.— OYSTER PATTIES. (Fr.— Petites Bouchees aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of puft-paste, 24 oysters, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, the yolks of 3 eggs, £ of a pint of fish stock or milk (about), £ a gill of cream, £ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper, Method. — When the paste has had the necessary number of turns, roll it out to a thickness of about £ an inch, and with a hot wet cutter of 2\ inches diameter stamp out 8 or 9 rounds of paste. Brush these over with beaten egg, then make an inner ring to about half the depth of the paste with a cutter i inch in diameter, previously dipped in hot

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water. Bake them in a hot oven for 20 or 25 minutes, then remove and take care of the tops, scoop out the soft inside, and keep the patties warm until required. Meanwhile put the oysters and their liquor into a saucepan, let them come to the boil, drain them, put the liquor aside, remove the beards, and cut each oyster in two. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook for 3 or 4 minutes, add the oyster liquor with enough milk to make half a pint, and stir until the sauce boils. Simmer for 10 minutes, add the cream, the yolks of the eggs, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste; simmer again gently until the yolks of the eggs thicken, then pass through a tammy-cloth or tine sieve. Re-heat, add the oysters, and when thoroughly hot, in the puff-paste cases, put on the covers, garnish with p ' Time. — £ an hour after the paste is made. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 8 or 9 patties. Seasonable from September to April.

566.— OYSTER SAUSAGES.

Ingredients. — 12 sauce oysters, i Ib. of veal, | oi,i 11>. of suet fmelychopped, i thick slice of bread, i egg, butter or dripping for l: s.ih and pepper.

Method. < >pen the oysters, preserve the liquor, remove the beards, and cut the oysters into very small pieces. Strain the liquor over the let it soak until soft, then drain off any unabsorbed liquor, and beat the bread with a fork until no lumps remain. Pass tl> 2 or 3 times through a mincing-m.u hme, add the surt, bread, salt and pepper to taste, and lastly ti. 1 he preparation may be improved by being well pounded in a mortar, but it is not absoIntelv \. When ready, press into skins, or shape in the form of small sausages, roll lightly in flour seasoned with salt and p» and fry in hot butter or fat.

Time. — Alto-ether, i£ hours. Average Cost, 2S. 3d. 567.— OYSTERS, SCALLOPED. (Fr. - - Escalopes aux Huitres.) Ingredienh sters, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, J pint of white j tablespoonfuls of cream, pepper, salt, breadcrumbs, bir Method. — Remove the beards of the oysters and simmer them about 10 minutes in the oyster liquor. Have the o ady in a small, strain the liquor on to them, and cover the basin to keep in the. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then pour in the stock and the oyster liquor, and stir until the sauce boils. Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, to ensure the flour bcini* thoroughly cooked, then add the cream and the oysters, and season to. Have ready some well-buttered scallop-shells, in which the

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oysters should be served, fill them with the oysters and the sauce, cover with breadcrumbs, pour on a little melted butter, and bake in a quick oven just long enough to brown the surface. Time. — Altogether, 30 to 35 minutes. Average Cost, 35. 3d. to 33. 9d. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable from September to April. 568.— OYSTER SOUFFLE (.FV.— Souffle aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — 2 small whitings, 6 large sauce oysters, i£ ozs. of flour, 2 ozs. of butter, about £ pint of milk, £ gill of cream, £ a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, 3 eggs, seasoning.

Method. — Skin the whitings, remove all the meat from the bones, ^nd pound it in a mortar. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook a little without browning; moisten with the milk and oyster liquor, stir briskly until quite smooth, then add the cream. Cook a little longer, but stir all the while. Remove the beards from the oysters, cut the latter into dice, and put them into the mixture; season to taste with salt, pepper and nutmeg, work in the yolks of the eggs, the anchovy -essence, and the pounded fish. Whisk the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and mingle them carefully with the mixture. Three parts fill a well-buttered souffle tin or Charlotte mould, steam for about 45 minutes. Remove from the mould, and serve with a white Time. — To steam, about 45 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 569.— OYSTER SOUFFLES, Small. (Fr.— Petits Souffles aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — 6 large sauce oysters, 2 eggs, £• pint of milk (about) i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, salt, pepper.

Method. — Remove the beards of the oysters, simmer them in the oyster liquor for 10 minutes, and cut the oysters into small pieces. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, add the milk, boil well, then let it slightly cool. Separate the whites of the eggs from the yolks, and whisk them to a stiff froth; add the yolks one at a time to the contents of the saucepan, and beat well. When thoroughly mixed put in the oysters, oyster liquor, add seasoning to taste, and lastly the whites of the eggs, which must be added as lightly as possible to the mixture. Have ready some well-buttered china cases, half fill them with the mixture, and bake for about 15 minutes in a moderately hot oven, or steam them over a saucepan of boiling water for 20 minutes. The souffles may be baked in paper cases, but the latter must previously be well buttered or oiled.

Time. — Altogether, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Allow 8 souffles for 6 persons. Seasonable from September to April.

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570.— OYSTER VOL-AU-VENT. (Fr.— Vol-au-Vent aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of puff-paste, 24 oysters, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, the yolks of 3 eggs, | of a pint of fish stock or milk (about), £ a gill of cream, £ a teaspoonful of lemon juice, salt and pepper, pars!

Method. — Roll out the paste as directed in the preceding recipe. Take a large, fluted oval cutter, dip it into hot water, and stamp out 2 pieces of paste. Remove the centre of one piece of paste with a hot wet smaller cutter. Wet the edge of the piece of paste which is intact, place the ring of paste on the top of it, and brush the surface with yolk of egg. Bake in a hot oven; when done, scoop out a little of the, fill with the oyster mixture (see oyster patties), and decorate with a little lobster coral and parsley.

Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 33. to 35. 6d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for one vol-au-vent. Seasonable from September to April.

571.— PERCH, BOILED. (Fr.— Perche bouilli.) Ingredients. — 4 perch, salt.

Method. — The peculiarity of the perch is the difficulty experienced in removing its scales. Sometimes it is boiled and the scales removed ards, but a better plan is to plunge the fish for 2 or 3 minutes into boiling water, and then scale it. Before boiling, the fish must be washed in \\.inn wau-r, cleaned, and the gills and fins removed. ready boiling water to cover the fish, add salt to taste, and boil them gently from 10 to 20 minutes, according to their size. Serve with Hollandaise or melted butter sauce.

Time. — 10 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to is. each. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from May to 1 Note. — Tench may be boiled the same way. and served with the same THE PERCH (Fr. perdu).— This is one of the best and most common of fresh-water fish found in nearly all the rivers and lakes of Britain and Ireland, and the whole of Europe within the temperate zone. It is extremely voracious, and has, contrary to the usual nature of fresh-water fish of prey, the peculiarity of being gregarious. The teeth of the perch are numerous and large -. its scales are ctenoid, or comb-shaped; the gill-cover and dorsal fin are furnished with spines; the tail and pectoral fins are of a bright red colour. May to the middle of July to the best season for angling for perch. Larffo miri.UTi..< thu n>h arc LreU a:.J; n-vrvcui ID th<- p:-,d*,-f lUn.p.t.ii......irt M i Safe*] Kir* The perch possesses great vitality, and wUl live far a considerable time out of water if its gills be kept moist The bass fa frequently called the sea-perch. The CLIMMNO PEACH of India, by a remarkable arran*et nm t of the cells of the pharyngeal bones, which retain moisture in the gills for a considerable period, is able to migrate overland in search of a fresh supply of water when the pools in which:)« are dried up. It progresses by means of its stifl spiny fins. The name " climbing perch " has been given to the fish from the supposition that it climbs the rough stems of the palmr--< -.

572.— PERCH, FRIED. (Fr.— Perche frite.) Ingredients. — 4 perch, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt, p«

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Method. — Scale, clean, wash, and dry the fish thoroughly. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge well with flour, brush over with beaten egg, and cover them with breadcrumbs. Have ready some hot fat, fry the fish until nicely browned, drain well, and serve with anchovy, shrimp, or melted butter sauce.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to is. each. Allow i medium-sized fish to each person. Seasonable from May to 573.—PERCH, STEWED. (Fr.— Perche au Vin Blanc.) Ingredients. — 4 perch, £ a pint of good stock, £ of a pint of white wine, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz of flour, i dessertspooonful of finely-chopped parsley, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped onion, £ a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, i bay-leaf, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i clove, salt and pepper, lemon-juice. Method. — Scale, clean, and wash the fish, and remove the fins and gills. Melt half the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion without browning, then add the stock, wine, anchovy-essence, bay-leaf, bouquetgarni, and clove, and simmer for 10 minutes. Put in the fish, and let them cook gently for about 10 minutes, then lift them out carefully on to a hot dish, and keep them warm. Melt the remaining oz. of butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then add the liquor (strained), in which the fish was cooked, and stir until it boils. Add the parsley and lemon-juice, season to taste, and pour over the fish.

Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to is. each. Allow I medium-sized fish to each person. Seasonable from May to February.

574.— PIKE, BAKED. (Fr.— Brochet Farci.) Ingredients. — i small pike (about 4 lb.), 4 ozs. of veal forcemeat (No. 412), i egg, brown breadcrumbs, butter, or fat for basting. Method. — Wash, clean, and scale the fish, and remove the fins and gills. Fill the inside with forcemeat, sew up the opening, brush over with beaten egg, and cover with breadcrumbs. Sometimes the fish is trussed in a round shape, the tail being fastened in the mouth by means of a skewer. Before putting the fish in the oven it should be well basted with hot fat or butter, and as this fish is naturally dry it must be frequently basted, and kept covered with a greased paper while cooking. Bake gently from 40 to 45 minutes, and serve with a suitable Time. — Altogether, about i hour. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 8 to 10 persons. Seasonable from September to

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i. Savoury Haddock Timbales. 2. Whiting Souffle. 3. Lobster Cutlets.

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575.— PIKE, BOILED. (Fr.— Brochet Bouilli.) Ingredients. — i pike, salt, vinegar.

Method. —Pour boiling water over the fish until the scales look dull, then plunge ii into cold water, and remove the scales at once with the back of a knife. Empty the fish, remove the gills and fins, and wash well. Have ready a nsh-keuK of warm water, add salt and vinegar to taste, put in the fish, and boil gently until the fish v easily from the Ixme (one weighing 4 Ib. would require about 25 or 30 minutes), i with Hollandaisc, anchovy, or melted butter sauce. Time. According to size, from $ to i hour. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d. per Ib. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable from September to IKE (Fr. bfocktt). — On account of its voracity, the pike is frequently called the " fresh-water The common pike occurs in the rivers and lakes of Europe, especially in th< • In KUSM.I.1- s to large dimensions The body of th t-xl with grren above and silvery-white below; the lower jaw pr»<!' j>[ • i i' i •: '::

• Is i,.|i.,l(l'Tt.1 (.. I"' numerous strong teeth. The p. the spring; its young are it from May t <*s. Owing to its extreme voracity the pike commits great It b a very long-l o a great age. In Scotland, the pike is called the ** gedd." The flesh of the pike cry wholesome, but it is somewhat 576. -PIKE, CRIMPED AND FRIED. (Fr.— Brochet recrepi.) Ingredients. -Tiki-, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt, piquant, anbrown caper sauces.

Method. I. 1; i i purpose should be fairly large and quite fresh. the lMi thoroughly, cut it into $-in< and cover i.uii until the flesh becomes ntlv firm, tlu;i <lrv v, tlour seasoned ilt and pepper. Brush over with beaten egg, coat carcfulh afterwards fry in hoi browned, ^rsley, and serve the sauce Time. ] hour. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d. per Ib. Seasonable at trom September t« 577. - PIKE, FILLETS OF, ITALIAN STYLE., / Filets de Brochet a 1'Italienne.) Ingredients, i nvdiun. ke, i\ ozs. of butter, J of a pint of \o. 233, 2 tablcspoonfuls of tomato \ jxx>nMethod. kin and cut the fish into neat fill t the butter in put in the fish, baste it well, and sprinkle with a greased paper, cook gently minutes. n at o puree and sherry. Continue to cook si" about 20 minutes, then transfer the li-h \ •«; y care-

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fully to a hot dish, and strain the sauce over. If liked, the bakingdish may be rubbed over with a cut clove of garlic before putting in the Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d, per Ib. Seasonable from September to March.

578.— PIKE, STEWED. (Fr— Brochet en compote.) Ingredients. — i small pike, slices of bacon, i oz. of butter, £ a pint of stock or water, i glass of sherry, salt and pepper. Method. — Wash, clean and dry the pike, place it in a stewpan, in which the butter has been previously melted, and cover with slices of bacon. Put on a close-fitting lid, let the fish cook in the steam for 15 minutes, then add the stock and wine, and season to taste. Simmer very gently for about -£ an hour, then serve on a hot dish with the gravy strained Time. — To stew, about £ an hour. Average Cost, 3d. to 6d. per Ib. Seasonable from September to March.

579.— PILCHARDS.

Pilchards are rarely found on the British shores, except at St. Ives, Mount's Bay, Mevagissy, and one or two other places on the coast of Cornwall and Devon. The pilchard may be distinguished from the herring by the fin, which is exactly in the middle of the back, while in the herring it is nearer to the tail. The taste of the pilchard is similar to that of the herring, but it is more oily. Pilchards quickly lose their freshness, and therefore are not often sent uncured to any great distance from the places where they are caught. In a cured condition they are largely exported. Pilchards may be dressed according to the directions given for cooking herrings. 580.— PLAICE, BAKED. (Fr.— Pile Farcie.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized plaice, 2 tablespoonfuls of white breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, £ of a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, a pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, i egg, pale browned breadcrumbs, a little fat or butter, milk.

Method. — Mix the white breadcrumbs, suet, parsley, herbs and nutmeg together, season well with salt and pepper, add £ the egg, and enough milk to thoroughly moisten the whole. Make an incision down the centre of the fish as for filleting, raise the flesh each side as far as possible, and fill with the forcemeat. Instead of drawing the sides of the fish close together, fill up the gap with forcemeat, and, with a knife, flatten the surface to the level of the fish. Brush over with the remaining half of the egg, cover lightly with the pale browned breadcrumbs, place a few small pieces of butter on the top, and bake from 20 to 30 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with a suitable sauce.

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Time. — To prepare and cook, from 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost,:o is. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year. Note. — The forcemeat may be varied by using shrimps or oysters (see Fish THE PLAICE (Ft. plie) is one of the commonest species of the PkurontctuUu, or flat-fishes, and k found in large quantities on the coasts of England, and the Baltic and Mediterranean seas. Its upper side is brown with red or orange spots. The plaice feeds near the bottom of the sea, and is caught by trawl nets. Although less delicate in flavour than the sole, the plaice is a favourite foh 581.— PLAICE, FILLETS OF, WITH WINE SAUCE.

(Fr. — Filets de Plie au Vin Blanc.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized plaice, a glass of Chablis or Sautcrno wine, 6 mushrooms, i blade of mace, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 shallots, J oz. of flour, i gill fish stock, the yolk of i egg, pepper and salt. Method.— Take the black skin off the fish, remove the f trim these as neatly as possible, and cut each into 2 or 3 fillets of an even size. Place these in a buttered saute- pan, season with pepp< salt, moisten with the wine and about a tablcspoonful of mushroom liquor; add also the blade of mace, and the shallots, peeled and cut in two. Cover the fillets with a piece of buttered paper, and cook in a moderately heated oven for about 15 minutes, or less, according to the icss of the fish. In the meantime, prepare a white roux or, thickening, with the remaining butter and the flour, moisten with a gill of fish stock, a little hot milk, and the liquor from the fillets, stir the roux until it boils, and let it simmer for 10 minutes. Cut the mushrooms into slices. Season and strain the sauce, add the yolk of the egg,:p long enough to bind the ingredients together, then add the mushrooms. Dish up the fish, pour the sauce over the fillets, garnish Time. — About J an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable all the year round. 582.— PLAICE, FRIED. (Fr.— Plie Frite.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized plaice egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, flour, salt and pepper, parsley.

Method. — Wash, dry, and fillet the fish, and cut it into pieces convenient for serving. Season a good tablcspoonful of flour rather highly with salt and pepper, and in it dip each piece of fish, then brush over with egg, cover with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Garnish with fried parsley, and serve with anchovy, shrimp, or melted butter sauce.

Time.— To prepare and cook, about $ an hour. Average Cost, i Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable all th

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583.— PLAICE, FRIED. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized plaice, flour, salt and pepper, fryingfat or oil.

Method. — Prepare the fish as in the preceding recipe, but instead of coating the fish with egg and breadcrumbs, slip each piece into a thick smooth batter made of flour and water.

Time. — To fry, atout 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 4d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable all the year round. 584.— PLAICE, OR SOLES, ROLLED.

(Fr. — Paupiettes de Plie.) Ingredients. — i plaice or 2 soles, lemon-juice, pepper and salt, £ a shallot, i bay-leaf, parsley, 2 cloves, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, \ a pint of fish stock, (i gill of milk, i gill of water, i tablespoonful of Method. — Fillet the plaice, season the fillets with salt, pepper, and lemon- juice. Roll them, and put them on a greased baking-sheet with a greased paper over them. Put the bones into a stewpan with the milk and water, bay-leaf, parsley stalks, cloves, and shallot, and simmer for 20 minutes. Melt the butter, add the flour, and cook for a few minutes, then add the fish stock, and stir the ingredients until they boil. Bake the rolled fillets for about 10 minutes or until cooked sufficiently, and season to taste. Dish them neatly on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, sprinkle a little chopped parsley on the top, and serve very hot.

Time. — To bake, from 5 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d., when plaice is used. Sufficient for 5 to 6 persons. Seasonable all the year round.

585.— TO BOIL PRAWNS, OR SHRIMPS.

(Fr. — Crevettes.) Method. — Prawns should be very red, and have no spawn when cooked; much depends on their freshness, and the way in which they are cooked. Throw them into boiling water, salted, and keep them boiling for about 7 or 8 minutes. Shrimps should be done in the same way, but less time must be allowed. It may easily be known when they are done by their changing colour. Care should be taken that they are not overboiled, as they then become tasteless and indigestible. Time. — Prawns, about 8 minutes; shrimps, about 5 minutes. Average Cost, prawns, 9d. to is. 6d. per dozen; shrimps, 4d. to 6d. a pint. Seasonable all. the year.

THE PRAWN (Fr. crevctic) is a crustacean allied to the lobsters and crabs, and resembles the shrimp in its appearance, but it is much larger and more delicate in flavour. Its colour is light orange-grey and the body is almost transparent; it changes to red when boiled, and becomes opaque. The prawn 3t>9Uijds in various parts of the English coast, especially in the south and south-west.

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586.— PRAWNS, CURRY OF. (Fr.— Crevettes a 1'Indienne.) Ingredients. — 2 dozen prawns, i£ ozs. of butter, i dessertspoonful of curry powder, i dessertspoonful of flour, i sour apple coarsely-chopped, i siiuill onion sliced, i tablespoonful of cocoanut grated, i tcaspoonful of lemon-juice, £ a pint of stock, salt.

Method. — Shell the prawns and put them aside. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion without browning, then add the currypu \vder and flour, and fry slowly for at least 20 minutes. Add the stock, apple, cocoanut, and a little salt, simmer gently for £ an hour, rain and return to the stewpan. Season to taste, add the lemon put in the prawns, and when thoroughly hot serve with \vellboiled n<.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost. Cording to the i the prawns. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any 587.— PRAWNS, TO SERVE.

In the centre of a dish place a dariol mould, or a small basin w1 U required, and cover it with a small. Arrange tin prawns around in the form of a pyramid, garnish with tufts of y, and s< 588.— PRAWNS, OR SHRIMPS, POTTED.

(Fr. — Terrine de Crevettes.) Ingredients.— i quart of fresh prawas or shrimps, $ of a Ib. of butter, rayenne, pounded mace or nutmeg, a 1.

Method.- The fish should be perfect!;-ge as possible. Hoil, then shell them and divide tlu-m slightly, and pound to a paste r with the butter and seasoning. Rub through a fine I into small pots, cover with clarified butter, and when cold tic down < 1<> Tlme.— S minutes, to lx.il the prawns. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 23. 589. SALMON BAKED, ITALIAN STYLE.

(Fr.— Saumon etufe a 1'Italienne.) Ingredients. — About 2 Ib. of salmon (middle), 2 small shallots (p iopped\ i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, salt and pepper, 1 nutmeg, i small izlass of claret, Genoise or tomato sa Method. Cut the fish into 2 or 3 even-sized slices, place these on a Wdl-btlttered baking-tin or sautr pan. Season with salt, pepper, and A littl r the chopped shall* »:

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parsley, and place the remainder of the butter on top of the fish. Moisten with the wine, and bake for about 15 minutes, basting the fish frequently. When done, dish up, and pour some Genoise or tomato sauce over the slices of salmon. The essence left in the pan in which the fish was baked must be utilized for flavouring the sauce. Time. — To cook, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 33. 6d. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable from April to August.

590.— SALMON, BOILED. (Fr— Saumon bouilli.) Ingredients. — Salmon. For the court-bouillon (or highly-seasoned fish stock), allow to each quart of water i dessertspoonful of salt, I small turnip, i small onion, % a leek, i strip of celery, 6 pepper-corns, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf).

Method. — Put into the fish-kettle just enough water to cover the fish, and when boiling add the prepared vegetables, and cook gently for 30 minutes. In the meantime, wash, clean, and scale the fish, and tie it loosely in a piece of muslin. Remove any scum there may be on the court-bouillon, then put in the fish and boil gently until sufficiently cooked (the time required depends more on the thickness of the fish than the weight; allow 10 minutes for each Ib. when cooking a thick piece, and 7 minutes for the tail end), then drain well, dish on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with sliced cucumber, and Hollandaise, or other suitable sauce.

Time. — From 7 to 10 minutes per Ib. Average Cost, from is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient, allow from 4 to 6 ozs. per head. Seasonable from April to August.

591.— SALMON, BOILED. (Fr.— Saumon bouilli.) Ingredients. — Salmon, salt, boiling water.

Method. — Scale and clean the fish, and put it into the fish-kettle with sufficient boiling water to just cover it, adding salt to taste. The boiling water is necessary to preserve the colour of the fish. Simmer gently until the fish can be easily separated from the bone, thus ensuring its being thoroughly cooked, otherwise it will be unwholesome, but on the other hand, if over-cooked it will be dry and insipid. Drain well, dish on a folded napkin, garnish with cut-lemon and parsley, and serve with lobster, shrimp, or other suitable sauce, and a dish of thinly-sliced cucumber.

Time. — According to size. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. perlb. Sufficient— Allow 4 oz. per head, when served in the fish course of a dinner. Seasonable from February to September, but most plentiful in July and To CHOOSE SALMON. — To be good, the belly should be firm and thick, and this may readily be ascertained by feeling it with the thumb and finger The circumstance of this fish having red gills, though given as a standing rule in most cookery books, as a sign of its goodness, is not at all to be relied on, for this appearance can be proiucjd artificially.

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592.— SALMON BAKED WITH CAPER SAUCE.

(Fr. — Saumon, Sauce aux Capres.) Ingredients. — 2 slices of salmon, £ of a Ib. of butter, £ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, i shallot, salt and pepper, and grated nutmeg to taste. (Caper sauce No. i; Method. — Lay the salmon in a baking-dish, place the pieces of butter over it, and add the other ingredients, nibbing a little of the seasoning into the fish. Baste frequently and when done place the salmon on a dish, pour caper sauce over it, and serve. Salmon dressed in this with tomato sauce is very delicious.

Time. — About J of an hour. Average Cost, 33. 6d. Seasonable from April to August. Sufficient for 6 persons.

593.— SALMON, COLLARED. (Fr.— Saumon au Four.) Ingredients. — i small salmon, vinegar, salt and pepper, mace, cayenne, rcorns, allspice, bay-leaves, cloves.

Method. — Cut off the head and tail, wash and scale the fish, and cut it in two lengthwise. Only i half is required for a roll, therefore cither 2 rolls must be made, or the other half dressed in another •gether ± a teaspoonful of salt, $ of a teaspoonful of pepper, a good pinch each of mace and cayenne. Remove the bones an<: from the fish, spread it flat on the table, and rub the inside well with the seasoning. Roll up the fish, and bind it firmly with string. Have ready a stewpan, just large enough to hold the fish, containing boiling water and vinegar, in the proportion of ^ of a pint of vinegar to i pint of water, and add i.- peppercorns, \ a teaspoonful of allsp; !>nt in the li*h. and simmer fnr.ilxnit i hour. When done, place in a d« and when the liquor is cold pour it over the salmon, and let it P until Time.— To prepare and cook, about 1$ hours. Average Cost, i 6d. per Ib. Sufflcient tor i dish. Seasonable from \: 594. -SALMON, CRIMPED. (Fr.— Saumon recrepi.) Salmon should l>< I as soon as possible after being caught. •s about apart should be made on both si ri^h. which should at once be plunged into cold water and allowed to >urs, changing the water 3 times at least* 595. SALMON, CURED OR SALTED.

Ingredients. - ->. iltpetre.

Method. Split the fish in ] move the bone, dry well with a soft d ^prinkle liberally with salt. I.et it remain thus for 24 hours, thei ad dry thoroughly, and divide the fish into pieces

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to pack conveniently in a large jar. Add i oz. of saltpetre to 12 ozs. of salt, rub the mixture well into the fish, and pack closely in a jar with salt between the layers. If the salt, when dissolved, does not cover the fish, make a little strong brine, and add it, when quite cold, to the contents of the jar.

596.— SALMON, CURRY OF. (Fr.— Saumon a rindienne.) Ingredients. — i£lb. of cooked salmon, i oz. of butter, i dessertspoonful of curry-powder, i dessertspoonful of flour, i sour apple (or a corresponding amount of rhubarb or green gooseberries) coarsely-chopped, i small onion sliced, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, \ a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, £ a pint of fish stock or water, salt. Method. — Melt the butter, fry the onion without browning, then add the curry-powder and flour, and fry slowly for about 20 minutes. Add the fish stock or water, apple, onion, and salt to taste, simmer gently for \ an hour, then strain, replace in the stewpan, and add the anchovy-essence, lemon- juice, and seasoning, if necessary. Have the fish ready freed from skin and bones, and separated into large flakes, put it into the prepared curry sauce, make thoroughly hot, and serve with well-boiled rice.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 33. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to August.

597.— SALMON CUTLETS. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Saumon en Papillotes.) Ingredients. — Slices of salmon, butter," pepper and salt, anchovy or caper sauce.

Method. — Cut the slices i inch thick, and season them with pepper and salt. Butter some sheets of white paper, enclose each slice of fish separately, and secure the ends of the paper case by twisting tightly, broil gently over a clear fire, and serve with anchovy or caper Time. — From loto 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. per Ib. Seasonable from April to August.

598.— SALMON DARIOLES. (Fr.— Darioles de Saumon a la Moscovienne.) Ingredients. — About i Ib. of cooked salmon, 6 large oysters, i large truffle, i hard-boiled egg, \ an oz. of anchovy -paste, a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, £ of a gill of cream, about £ a pint of aspic jelly, 4 filletted anchovies, a few slices of cucumber, red chilies, a pinch of cayenne, salt and pepper, grated nutmeg, ice.

Method. — Flake the salmon, line 6 to 8 small dariole, bouche, or

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tiniKile moulds witli a thin layer of aspic jelly, decorate with a few thin of trutiles, some niee Hakes of salmon, and a few strips of red Set the Burnish will with a little aspic, and put it aside to cool. Pound t mder of the fish in a mortar together with 6 cooked oysters, the hard-boiled egg, and the anchovy-paste; season \\ith a pinch of cayenne pepper, salt, and a little grated nutmeg. I\ul» -icve, add the tarragon vinegar, in, and about I ^ill of aspic jelly, mix the ingredient > well to-rther, and then fill the moulds. Put the anchovy fillets and a few slices of truffles be the farce, or stuffing, in filling. If the mixture does not quite fill the moulds, supply the deficiency with aspic jelly, and stand the moulds on the ice until required. For serving, immerse the moulds in tepid water, turn out the contents quickly, and place them on a round:i round »ppcd aspic and a few fancifully-cut of CUCIII Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 3*. to 35. 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any t 599.— SALMON, FILLETS OF, MORNY STYLE.

(Fr. — Filets de Saumon a la Mornay.) Ingredients, j Alices of salmon, from | to i inch in thickness, 2} ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, J of a pint of fish stock, J of a pint of c I onion coarsely-chopped, a bouquet -garni (parsley, thyme, ba> i tablespoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, i dessertspoonful of lemonsalt and Method. Melt half the butter in a shallow stcwpan or sautfry the «»:,,ly on U»th sidex then add the Stock (boiling, the Ixniquet-garni. salt ai;, add the flour, and cook for 5 minutes, \V1, vc it out on to a hot dish and keep it warm. Strain t Instock on to the flour and butter, and stir until it boils. Simm 5 minutes, add the cream, cheese, lemon-juice, season to taste, pour the mixture over the fish, and i Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, from is. 3d. to is. oxl.. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to August. 600.— SALMON, FRIED. (Fr— Saumon Frit.) (Jewish Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of salmon, a small flask of ol Method. Pour the oil into a small but deep pan, set over a clear it ceases to bubble, put in the salmon,; •.;er,tlv until it is.

1 through. It bhould i>e only a golden brown, and when the >

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has acquired this colour, the pan should be placed where the fish will cook slowly, so as to prevent it becoming darker. When thoroughly done, drain and leave it to get cold, and serve it upon a fish paper, garnished with parsley.

Time. — About £ hour to cook the fish. Average Cost, 23. 6d. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable from April to August.

THE SALMON (Ft. saumon) is the type of the family Salmonida, which forms the first sub-order, the Malacopteri of the third order of fishes, the Teleostei, or fish possessing a bony skeleton, and having the skull composed of distinct bones. The ventral fins are abdominal, the second dorsal fin is soft and without rays, and the swim-bladder is developed. The head of the salmon is smooth; its teeth are placed in the upper and lower jaws, palate, and roof of the mouth; the edges of the tongue are notched. The colour of the salmon is steel-blue on the head and back, and silver-white on its lower parts. The salmon lives in both salt and fresh-water, and is found distributed over the north of Europe and Asia, and in the great rivers of North America. It spawns in the late autumn or the beginning of winter, and ascends the rivers, often to a great distance, for that purpose. The spawn is deposited in a shallow groove in the sand or gravel, and covered over by the action of the tail and fins of the fish. Salmon after spawning are known as kelts. The young are hatched about March, and pass through three stages before attaining full maturity. When first hatched the young are called parr, and remain under that designation some fifteen months to two years, living in the shallows of their native stream. The second stage is that of the smolt, or salmon-fry, when the fins become darker and the body more silvery, and the young fish in shoals migrate to the sea. On returning from the sea, where it has rapidly increased in growth, to the rivers, it is known as the grilse, or salmonpeel, and weighs on the average from 4 Ib. to 6 Ib. The grilse on its return to the rivers spawns for the first time. Again going back to the sea the grilse gradually increases in size, and becomes the salmon. The salmon is the finest of food fishes, characterized by its orange-coloured flesh, and is called by Isaac Walton the " King of fresh-water fish." It is esteemed of so much importance, that special Acts of Parliament have been passed to regulate the salmon fishery and preserve the fish. A close-time for salmon fishing in England and Wales, including also the Esk in Dumfries, is fixed for nets from September i to February i, and for rods from November 2 to February i. In Scotland it is for nets from August 27 to February 10, for rods, from November i to February 10, with certain local exceptions. In Ireland there are many variations of the close-time, but the netting close-time must not be less than 168 days. It is illegal to sell fresh salmon between September 3 and February i, except salmon imported from foreign countries. There are also special penalties for capturing or selling " unclean " salmon, i.e., salmon recently spawned or full of spawn. The salmon is caught by the rod or by specially constructed nets. The principal salmon fisheries in England and Scotland are those of the Tweed, North Esk, Dee, Tay, Severn, Avon and Spey. Salmon is very abundant in the rivers of North America, and large quantities of tinned salmon are exported thence to Great Britain.

60 1. —SALMON WITH GENEVESE SAUCE.

(Fr. — Saumon Sauce Genevoise.) Ingredients. — 2 slices of salmon, £ a pint of good stock, £ of a pint of Madeira or other white wine, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i dessertspoonful each of chopped-onion and parsley, i carrot sliced, a bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), a blade of mace, the juice of a lemon, a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, cayenne, salt and pepper.

Method. — Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan and fry the onion until slightly browned, add the stock, wine, parsley, carrot, bouquet-garni, mace, anchovy-essence and seasoning, and boil gently for 30 minutes, then strain, and return to the stewpan. Bring the sauce to boiling point, put in the slices of fish, and let them simmer gently about 20 minutes, or until the fish separates easily from the bone. Meanwhile melt the remaining oz. of butter in another stewpan, add to it the flour, stir and cook over the fire for 4 or 5 minutes. When the fish is done, remove it carefully to a hot dish, pour the liquor on to the butter and flour, stir until smooth, then simmer for 5 or 6 minutes.

Add the lemon-juice to the sauce, season to taste, strain over the fish,

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Time.— From i to i£ hours. Average Cost, 35. to 35. 6d. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable from April to August.

602.— SALMON JELLY. (Fr.— Gelee de Saumon.) Ingredients. — i tin of salmon, i pint of clear stock, i oz. of French gelatine, 2 whites of eggs.

Method. — Dissolve the gelatine in the stock and season to taste. Cook the whites of eggs in a dariol mould or small cup until firm, and cold cut into thin slices and stamp out into fancy shapes. Drain the oil from the salmon, and remove all skin and bones. Cover the bottom of a mould with jelly, let it set, and then decorate with white of egg. Set the garnish with a little jelly, add a layer of salmon, cover with jelly, and put aside until set. Repeat until the mould is full. on ice or in a cool place until wanted, then turn out, and st. Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d., in addition • 603.— SALMON, MAYONNAISE OF. (Fr.— Saumon en Mayonnaise.) Ingredients. — Cold boiled salmon, lettuce, cucumber, beetroot, gherkins, capers, boned anchovies, hard-boiled eggs, Mayonnaise sauce:oi).

Method. — A Mayonnaise of salmon may consist of a large centre-cut, a thick slice, or the remains of cold salmon cut into pieces conv for serving. In all cases the skin and bone must be removed, and the fish completely masked with thick Mayonnaise sauce, the stiffening properties of which are greatly increased by the addition of a little liquid, but nearly cold, aspic jell a procurable, a little endive should be mixed with the lettuce, for although the somewhat bitter flavour of this salad plant is disliked by many people, its delicate, ry leaves greatly improve the appearance of any dish of which it a part. Many other garnishings, in addition to those enumerated above, may be used; the leaves of the tarragon and chervil plants, and fancifully-cut thin slices of truffle, being particularly effective when used to decorate the surface of Mayonnaise sauce (set Lobster Mayon>. 201 ).

Average Cost.— Salmon, is. 3d. to 2s. 6d. per Ib. 604.— SALMON MOULDED IN JELLY.

Ingredients — 1$ Ib. of cooked salmon, i pint of clear stock, i oz. of i gelatine, i white of egg, i tablespoonful of sherry or I i tablespoonful of vinegar.

Method. — Soak the gelatine in the cold stock for | an hour, then stir thr mixture over the fire until dissolved, and draw it aside to cool -k the white of egg with the sherry or d the ir, and add it to the stock when considerably below boiling

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point. Whisk briskly until boiling, let the preparation stand undisturbed for 10 minutes, then strain through a jelly bag, and when quite cold and on the point of setting, pour a little into a mould. Divide the salmon into large flakes, and as soon as the jelly in the mould hardens, cover lightly with pieces of salmon. Add a layer of jelly, let it set, and cover with salmon, repeating the process until the mould is full. Keep on ice until ready to serve.

Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 33., exclusive of the 605.— SALMON, PAUPIETTES OF, REGENCE STYLE.

(Fr. — Paupiettes de Saumon a la Regence.) Ingredients. — About 2^ Ib. of salmon (jowl), i large whiting, 3 ozs. of panada, 2 ozs. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, i tablespoonful of Bechamel sauce, seasoning, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, preserved mushroom heads for garnish, Regence sauce (No. 270). Method. — Remove the fillets of salmon from the bone, cut off the skin, divide each fillet in half lengthwise, and cut them into rather thin long slices of even size, trimming them neatly. Skin and bone the whiting, pound it in a mortar until smooth, add the panada, mix well, then add the egg yolks, about i oz. of butter, the Bechamel sauce, and the chopped parsley. Season to taste with salt, pepper, cayenne and nutmeg, and rub through a fine sieve. Spread each slice of salmon with a layer of this farce or forcemeat, roll up into paupiette shapes, and tie each with string or skewer them together in twos or threes. Place them in a saute-pan containing i oz. of melted butter, divide the remainder of the butter into little bits, placing these on the top of the paupiettes, cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a moderate oven from 20 to 25 minutes, basting frequently. When done, take up, remove the skewers or string, and dress the paupiettes on a hot dish. Have the Regence sauce nicely heated, add the mushroom heads, allowing i large head for each paupiette; place the mushrooms on the paupiettes, sauce over carefully, and serve hot.

Time. — To cook, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, 53. to 6s. Sufficient for 10 persons. Seasonable from April to August. 606.— SALMON, PICKLED. (Fr.— Saumon Marine.) Ingredients. — Salmon, -£ an oz. of whole pepper, £ an oz. of whole allspice, i teaspoonful of salt, 2 bay-leaves, equal quantities of vinegar and the liquor in which the fish was boiled.

Method. — After the fish comes from table, and the bones have been removed lay it in a clean deep dish. Boil the liquor and vinegar with the other ingredients for 10 minutes, let them stand to get cold, then pour them over the salmon, and in 12 hours it will be ready for use

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Time. — 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to 2S. 6d. per Ib. Seasonable trom April to August.

607.— SALMON, POTTED. (Fr— Terrine de Saumon.) Ingredients. — Cold salmon, clarified butter, anchovy-essence, powd mace, salt and pepper, cayenne.

Method. — Free the fish from skin and bone, then pound it thoroughly in a mortar. Add by degrees the seasoning, and the anchovy-essence and clarified butter a few drops at a time, until the right consistency and flavour is obtained, then rub the ingredients through a fine sieve, press into small pots, and cover with a good layer of clarified butter.:ion may also be potted (see Potted Lobster, No. 540). Average Cost. — Salmon, from is. 6d. to 2s. 6d. per Ib 608.— SALMON, SMOKED OR KIPPERED.

Ingredients. — Salmon, equal quantities of common salt and J.t: pepper mixed together, also a mixture composed oi i 11.. 3 ozs. of coarse sugar, i oz. of saltj Method.— Scale the fish, split it down the back, remove the head and all the backbone except 3 inches at the tail. Clean and <1: thoroughly, then rub well with 4 hours. Drain well, rub the fish 2 or 3 the mixture of salt, sugar and saltpetre, let it stand for 2 day.:ub it again with the mixture. -.-tch the fish on Si hang it by the tail, exposed to the rays of the sun or of the fire, for 3 or j ards suspend it in the <»f a wood or turf fire until dry — usually froi Sometimes salt and Jamaica pepper alone arc used, but the proo the same. •cculiar flavour possessed 1 to juniper s being used as fuel instead of wood or turf. 609. SALMON, SMOKED TO COOK. (Fr,-Saumon Fume) Ingredients. — Smoked Method. C 'ut the fish into small thin slices, brush them over with nd enclose them in oi < inll the *lurs.

7 or 8 minutes, turning them 2 or 3 times during •cess. Serve wi t h oiled butter, or any fish sauce that m.i Time.— 7 or 8 minutes. Average Coal, 33. 6d. per Ib. for smoked on.

6io.-SALMON SMOKED, DEVILLED. (Fr.— Saumon fume a la Diable Ingredients.— Smoked salmon, wheat triscuits, salad-oil, dr butt

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Method. — Cut the triscuits across in halves, soak them for 3 or 4 minutes in salad-oil, then drain well, and sprinkle liberally with salt, pepper and cayenne. Toast the triscuits on both sides, cover them with thin slices of smoked salmon, and add a layer of devilled butter. Place them in a hot oven for a few minutes, then serve. Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, for smoked salmon, 33. 6d. perlb.

61 1.— SALMON STEAKS. (Fr.— Tranche de Saumon.) These may be enclosed in an oiled or buttered paper, and eithcr grilled or fried in hot butter in a saute-pan. Or they may be coated with egg and breadbcrumbs and fried. Serve with sliced cucumber and a suitable sauce.

6 1 2.— SALMON, TIME ALES OF. (Fr.— Petites timbales de Saumon.) Ingredients. — £ of a Ib. of cooked salmon, £ a [pint of Mayonnaise sauce, stiffened with £ of a gill of well-reduced aspic, i gill of plain aspic jelly for lining, tarragon and chervil leaves, i large truffle, ice.

Method. — Line 6 to 8 small oblong or square moulds (timbale or zephire [oval] shape) with dissolved aspic jelly, decorate with the herb leaves and truffle, and, when set, coat with a layer of prepared Mayonnaise. Flake the fish, season with Mayonnaise, and add the remainder of the truffles, chopped coarsely. Fill up the moulds 3 parts full with dressed salmon, finish filling with some Mayonnaise and aspic. Put the moulds to set upon the ice, turn out, dish up, garnish with small green salad and chopped aspic, then serve.

Time. — £ hour. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 33. Sufficient for 6 persons. 613.— SALT FISH WITH CREAM. (Fr.— Morue a la Ingredients.— 3 or 4lb.of salt cod-fish of average size, i pint of water, i pint of milk, i£ ozs. of flour, i£ ozs. of butter, pepper. Method. — Divide the fish into very small fillets, put them into a stewpan with the water and milk, and simmer for £ an hour. Knead the flour and butter to a smooth paste, put it into the saucepan in very small pieces, and simmer for about 10 minutes, or until the liaison (or thickening) of butter and flour becomes smoothly mixed with the liquid. Add pepper to taste, and serve.

Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, sauce, 3^d.; cod from 4d. to is per Ib, Sufficient for S or 10 persons, Seasonable during Lent,

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614.— SALT FISH AND PARSNIPS. (Fr.— Morue aux Panais.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of salt cod, 12 young parsnips, egg sauce. No. Method. — Wash the fish, and soak it in cold water for 12 hours, or longer if very salt, changing the water every 3 or 4 hours. Cover the i with cold water, and bring slowly to simmering point, then draw to the side of the stove and cook very gently for 20 minutes, or until the fish leaves the bones. Meanwhile prepare the sauce according to the directions given. Boil the parsnips, if small cut them lengthwise into 2, or, if large into 4 pieces. Drain the fish well, then place it on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with the parsnips. Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, cod, 4d. to is. per Ib. Sufficient, for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable during Lent. 615.— SCALLOPS OF FISH. (Fr.— Escalopes de Poisson au Gratin.) Ingredients. — The remains of cold fish of any kind, to each | Ib. of which allow i£ ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, i a pint of milk, i teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, i teaspoonful of walnut ketchup, | a spoonful of made mustard, salt and pepper, cayenne, bread cm:

Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook for 3 or 4 minutes, then pour in the milk, stir until it boils, and let it simmer slowly for 10 minutes. Meanwhile separate the fish into large flakes, and when the sauce is ready put them into the stewpan with the anchovy-essence, ketchup, mustard, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, and a small pinch of cayenne. Stir over the fire until the mixture is thoroughly hot, then fill the scallop-shells (previously wellbuttered), cover lightly with breadcrumbs, place on the top of each ill pieces of butter, and bake in a hot oven until nicely browned, or brown the surface with a hot salamander.

Time. — £ an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d.

616.— SCALLOPS, FRIED. (Fr.— Potencies Frits.) Ingredients. — 18 scallops, i egg, ± oz. butter, 2 ozs. of flour, i gill of milk, salt, pepper and cayenne, frying-fat, parsley. Method.— Drain the scallops on a cloth. Sift the flour into a add a pinch of salt. Melt the butter, beat up the egg, stir both into flour, add the milk, and work until quite smooth. If too tl a little more melted butter or milk may be added. Let the batter:\ hour, then stir in a dessertspoonful of chopped parsley. Season the scallops with a lir a good pinch of white pepper,

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and a small pinch of cayenne. Dip them into the batter, drop them one by one into hot fat, fry to a golden-brown, drain on a cloth, pile up on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve with lobster or tomato sauce (No 281) Time. — To fry, from 5 to 6 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable from January to June. THE SCALLOP (Fr. petoncle) is allied to the oyster, and is highly esteemed for the table. The shells of the scallop were worn in their hats by pilgrims in the Middle Ages, to show that they had made a pilgrimage to the Holy Land.

617.— SCALLOPS AND MUSHROOMS. (Fr.— Petoncles aux Champignons.) Ingredients. — 6 scallops, 6 large flap mushrooms, i oz. of butter, i or 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, milk, salt and pepper. Method. — Remove the scallops from their shells, and wash well in cold water. Put them into a stewpan with just sufficient milk to cover, add a little salt and pepper and simmer gently for about 50 minutes. Drain well, chop the yellow and white parts separately, moisten with a little white sauce, and season to taste. While the scallops are cooking remove the stalks of the mushrooms, peel them and fry them in hot butter. Place an equal portion of the white part of the scallops on each mushroom, pile the red part on the top, make thoroughly hot in the oven, and serve.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from January to June. 618.— SCALLOPS, SCALLOPED. (Fr.— Petoncles en coquilles.) Ingredients. — 12 scallops, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, breadcrumbs, butter, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash and drain the scallops, chop them finely, and mix with them an equal quantity of breadcrumbs. Season liberally with salt and pepper, and add the parsley. Wash and dry the deeper shells, butter them thickly, and sprinkle lightly with breadcrumbs. Fill the shells with the preparation, cover the surface lightly with breadcrumbs, and add two or three bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven until well-browned, and serve in the shells. Time. — 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 shells. Seasonable from January to June.

619, SCALLOPS IN SHELLS. (Fr.— Petoncles en coquilles.) Ingredients. — 1£ dozen of scallops, a cupful of breadcrumbs, i oz.

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FISH ENTREES.

i. Cold Border of Salmon. 2. Mayonnaise Fioh. 3. Timbale of Turbot.

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of butter, i t;ill white sauce, cayenne, and salt, a little chopped parsley, and a squeeze of lemon.

Method. — Trim the scallops by cut ting off the beards and black parts, ie 6 shells, butter them, and strew in a few bread crumbs. Put 3:>s in each, season them with the cayenne and chopped parsley, and a drop or two of lemon-juice. Put a little pepper and salt with the breadcrumbs, cover the scallops with white sauce, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, place little pieces of butter on the top. and bake for about 20 minutes.

Time.— 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2S. Sufficient for 6 Seasonable from January to June.

620.— SCALLOPS, STEWED. (Fr. - - Ragout de petoncles.) Ingredients. — 12 scallops, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, lemon-juice or vinegar, salt and Method. — Open the shells hke an oyster, remove the scallops, and trim 1 and Mack parts. \\\^ii well in j or 3 waters, then them with warm w.itcr, and boil gently from 50 to 60 minutes. Meanwhile knead the flour and butter well together, mix in.1 little salt and popper, separate into small pieces, and add them to the conof the stcwjun 20 minutes before serving. \Vh< place the scallops on a hot di uicc to ta juice or vineg i Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to js. Sufficient for 4 perSeasonable from January to Jim--.

621.— SCALLOPS IN WHITE WINE SAUCE.

(Fr.— Petoncles au Vin Blanc.) Ingredients.— 18 scallops, milk, butter, i small onion, i clove. | bay white s.u.

Method. Wash the scallops, or escallops, as these shell-fish r.-ill.-d l.solutely necessary, as thPut the scallops in a stewpan. with sut'i with a dove, also | a bay-leaf and a pinch of salt, and boil for 15 nu: •,iin, an«l fmi*h conkini; in white sauce, an < <c of utter or ixxMiful of cream being added at the tr ich of cayenne and a grate of nutmeg is reconr Time.- I an hour. Average Cost Sufficient for 8 or Seasonable from January;

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622.— SEA-BREAM, BAKED. (Fr.— Breme de Mer rotie, au four.) Ingredients. — i bream, seasoning to taste of salt, pepper and cayenne, £ of a Ib. of butter.

Method. — Well wash the bream, but do not remove the scales, and wipe away all moisture with a dry cloth. Season it inside and out with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and lay it in a baking-dish. Place the butter, in small pieces, upon the fish, and bake for rather more than 30 minutes. It will be found a great improvement to stuff the fish before baking.

Time. — Rather more than 30 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. per Ib. Seasonable in summer, but may be procured all the year round. Note, — This fish may be broiled over a nice clear fire, and served with a good brown gravy or white sauce, or it may be stewed in wine. THE SEA-BREAM (Fr. breme de mer). — A popular name given to fish of the genus Brama — the true bream, a fresh-water fish, belongs to the carp family. The sea-bream is abundant round the coast of Cornwall. It is not held in very high estimation. MR. YARRELL'S RECIPE. — " When thoroughly cleansed the fish should be wiped dry, but none of the scales should be taken off. In this state it should be broiled, turning it often, and if the skin cracks, flour it a little to keep the outer case entire. When on table, the whole skin and scales turn off without difficulty, and the muscle beneath saturated in its own natural juices which the outside covering has retained, will be of good flavour."

623.— SHAD, BAKED. (Fr.— Alose roti, au four.) Ingredients. — i shad, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 3 or 4 ozs. of veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats).

Method. — Wash, clean, scale, and dry the fish. Make the forcemeat as directed, put it inside the fish, and sew up the opening. Place the fish in a baking-dish or tin, lay the slices of bacon on the top of it, and bake gently from £ to i hour. Serve with a suitable fish sauce, or a tureen of good beef gravy.

Time. — About i£ hours, altogether. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to June. 624.— SHAD, BOILED, WITH DUTCH SAUCE.

(Fr. — Alose a la Hollandaise.) Ingredients. — Shad, salt and water, Hollandaise sauce (No. 304). Method. — Clean the fish, but do not scale it, boil in salt and water, and serve garnished with fresh parsley and cut lemon. Send a boat of the sauce to table with the fish.

Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost. 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 8 persons. Seasonable from April to June.

625.— SHAD, BROILED. (Fr.— Alose Grille.) Ingredients. — i shad, oil, pepper and salt.

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Method. — Scale, empty and wash the fish carefully, and make 2 or 3 incisions across the back. Season it with pepper and salt, and let it remain in oil for 30 minutes. Broil it on both sides over a clear fire, and serve with caper sauce. The fish is much esteemed by the Time. — Nearly i hour. Average Cost, from 6d. per Ib. Seasonable from April to June.

THE SHAD (Fr. ahse) —The two best known species of the shad, which belongs to the herring family, are the common or Alike shad, and the Twaite shad. The shad is a salt-water fish, frequentv.otiths of large riven, which it ascends in the spawning season. In shape it resembles the of a larger size and is called in Scotland the " herring king." Its colour is dark blue, ts of brown and green, and white beneath. The Allice shad abounds in the Severn. The Twaite shad is smaller than the Allice, and is common in the Thames. 626.— SHAD, BROILED. (Fr— Alose grille.) Ingredients. — i shad weighing about 2 Ib., 4 tablespoonfuls of saladoil, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped onion, i tcaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, salt and pepper, sorrel, caper or piquant sauce. Method. — Wii^h, empty and thoroughly dry the fish, place it in a deep dish, and add the salad-oil, onion, parsley and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Baste frequently, let the fish remain in the marinade hours, then drain and dry it well. Broil over a clear; fire for about | an hour, according to size, turn the fish frequently, and brush •ccasionally with some of the oil in which the fish was soaked. the sauce separately in a tu:

Time. — To broil, about £ an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2S. Sumdent for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from February to September. 627.— SHAD, FRIED. (Fr.— Alose frit.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized shad, flour, salt and pepper, egg and rumbs, fry ing-fat, anchovy, tomato or piquant sauce. Method.— \Vush and scale the fish, separate it from the backbone, and divide into neat fillets. Add a little salt and pepper to i tablespoonful of flour, dip the fillets in the mixture, and afterwards coat the fillets carefully with egg and breadcrumbs. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat, fry the fish until lightly browned, then drain well. ("... with l v, and the roe, \. fried. Serve the lv in a tureen.

Time. — To fry, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from February to September. 628.— SHRIMPS, POTTED. (Fr.— Tcrrinc de Crevettes.) Ingredients. — i pint of shelled shrimps, $ of a Ib. of fresh butter, i •f pounded mace, cayenne to taste, and, if liked, a little nutmeg.

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Method. — Have ready i pint of picked shrimps, put them, with the other ingredients, into a stewpan, let them heat gradually in the butter, but do not let it boil. Pour into small pots, and, when cold, cover with melted butter, and carefully exclude the air.

Time. — £ of an hour, to soak in the butter. Average Cost, is. 6d. THE SHRIMP (Fr. crevette).— This familiar crustacean, belonging to the order Decapoda, or tenfooted Crustacea, is allied to the lobsters and crawfishes. It inhabits the sandy shores of the coasts of Britain and Ireland, and is captured in nets, which are pushed before the shrimpers through the sand. In colour it resembles the sand in which it lives, and is semi-transparent, but after being boiled it becomes opaque, and changes to the well-known brown hue. The red variety lives in deeper water, and is caught chiefly on the east and south coasts of England. Its colour before boiling is reddishgrey. The bulk of the London supply of shrimps comes from Holland from January to the end of June; but the Dutch are inferior in quality to the English shrimps, which are abundant from July to the end of the year.

629.— SHRIMPS AND PRAWNS, TO SHELL.

There is a slight difference in the shape of shrimps and prawns, the tail of the former being rounded at the bend, like that of a lobster, but the tail of the prawn presents a. sort of knee or angle. To shell a shrimp, take the head between the right thumb and forefinger, and with the left forefinger and thumb-nail raise on each side the shell of the tail, pinch the tail, and the shell will at once separate. To shell prawns, take the -head between the right hand thumb and second finger, take the tip of the tail between the left thumb and forefinger; with the nail of the right forefinger raise the shell at the knee or angle, pinch the tail, and the shell will come apart, leaving the prawn attached to the head. 630.— SKATE, BOILED. (Fr.— Raie au Naturel.) Ingredients. — i skate, salt.

Method. — Clean and skin the skate, put it into a fish-kettle containing sufficient salted warm water to just cover it, and simmer gently for about 30 minutes, or until the fish separates readily from the bone. Drain well, dish on a folded napkin, and serve with shrimp, lobster or caper sauce.

Time. — From 30 to 50 minutes, according to size. Average Cost, from 4d. to 6d. per Ib. Seasonable from August to April.

To CHOOSE SKATE. — This fish should be chosen for its firmness, breadth and thickness, and should have a creamy appearance. It should not be kept longer than a day or two. THE SKATE (Fr. rate), a member of the Ray family, is rhomboidal in shape, and has a cartilaginous skeleton. The body is much depressed; the teeth are flat, and form a mosaic-like pattern in the mouth; the tail is long and slender and heterocercal, having the upper lobe longer than the lower; the mouth is pointed with a prominent ridge. The THORNBACK differs from the common skate by having spines on the upper surface of the tail. It is inferior in quality to the true skate, The flesh of the skate is white, palatable, and easily digested. It is improved by crimping, and is usually sold in that form.

631.— SKATE WITH BROWN BUTTER.

(Fr. — Raie au beurre-noir.) Proceed as directed in the foregoing recipe, and serve on a hot dish

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RECIPES FOR «'OKING FIHl 381 without the napkin. Meanwhile heat an oz. of fresh butter until it t:mt -brown in colour, then add a tca>p >onfiil oi vinegar aii'l a little choppc-!, Pour this hot over the fish, garnish with sprigs oi p,n>lry an-1.serve.

632.— SKATE WITH CAPER SAUCE. (Fr.— Raie, Sauce aux Capres.) Ingredients. --2 or 3 slices of skate, | a pint of vinegar, 2 ozs. ot £ a teaspoonful of pepper, i sliced onion, a small bunch of parsley, 2 bay-leaves, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, sufficient warm water to e« ice (No. i Method. Put all the ibovi LngrecUfl:ish-kettl- -.miner tin- skate in them until tender. W: pour ove <>f the liquor in which it ha -in well, put it on a hot ili^h. i it a little caper sauce, a; the in a tu; Time. ] an hour. Average Cost, js. Sufficient for 4 p. seasonable from August to April.

Iso be served with <mi<>n -.»n..- or parsley and b\ 633. SKATE, SMALL, FRIED. (/•>.— Rait ons Frits.) Ingredients. — Skat- r to cover tin '[( ed onion, a small bunch of:

' Method.— Cleanse the skate, lay tlu-m in a thslj, with vinegar to • flour them or cover them with etjL; umbs, and fry in hot ly browned.:i or without not good if dressed too fresh, unless it is crimped, and it should, therefore, be kept for a <! Time.— IQ minutes. Average Cost, from 41!. per Ib. Seasonable ril.

634.— SMELTS, TO BAKE. (Fr.— Eperlans au Gratin.) Ingredients.; ulcrumbs, 2 ozs. of fr< Method. — Wash and dry tl. m a *l"th. and arrange in a flat baking-dish. C'mvr them with t. lorumbs, em little pieces of butter. Season and bake for 15 Just before serving, add a squ<, and garnish with f:

Time.. Average Cost, from:. per dozen. Sufficient f<»r 4 persons. Seasonable from October to May.

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635.— SMELTS, TO FRY. (Fr.— Eperlans Frits.) Ingredients. — Smelts, egg and breadcrumbs, a little flour, boiling fat or oil.

Method. — Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than is necessary to cleanse them. Dry them in a cloth, flour lightly, dip them in egg, cover with very fine breadcrumbs, and put them into boiling fat or oil. Fry a nice pale brown, then drain the smelts before the fire on a piece of paper, and serve with plain melted butter. This fish is often used as a garnish.

Time. — 5 minutes. Average Cost, from is. to 2s. per dozen. Seasonable from October to May.

To CHOOSE SMELTS. — When good, this fish is of a fine silvery appearance, and when alive the back is of a dark-brown shade, which, after death, fades to a light fawn. Smelts should have a refreshing fragrance, resembling that of a cucumber.

636.— SMELTS, POTTED. (Fr.— Terrine d' Eperlans.) Ingredients. — Fresh smelts, mace, pepper and salt, butter. Method. — Wash the fish carefully, draw out the insides, and sprinkle the seasoning over them. Put them into a baking-tin with pieces of butter, and bake for 20 minutes. Allow the smelts to get nearly cold, then place them on a clean cloth to drain, and put into pots. Clarify the butter in which they were baked, adding more if necessary, and pour it over the fish.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2s. per dozen. Seasonable from October to May.

THE SMELT (Fr. tperlan) is a small but very delicate fish, and is highly esteemed. It is allied to the salmon, and inhabits the sea about the mouths of rivers. The body is long and compressed, silvery-white in colour, and semi-transparent; the eyes are large. From August to May it frequents fresh water and spawns; afterwards it returns to the sea. A violet-like odour is exhaled from the smelt. The ATHARINE, or " sand-smelt," is an inferior fish, sometimes sold for the true variety. It is allied to the mullets, and is of a pale pink, spotted with black. 637.— SNAILS, BAKED. (Fr.— Escargots rotis.) Ingredients. — 2 dozen snails, i oz. of butter, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, i shallot finely-chopped, breadcrumbs, salt and Method. — Soak the snails in salt and water for 12 hours, then drain them well. Sprinkle lightly with salt, pepper, shallot and parsley, cover with breadcrumbs, and add a small piece of butter. Bake in a moderate oven for 20 minutes, and serve hot.

Time. — To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. to is. per dozen.

638.— SNAILS WITH PIQUANT SAUCE.

(Fr. — Escargots, sauce piquante.) Ingredients. — 2 dozen snails, •$• an oz. of butter, 2 shallots finely-

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chopped, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of piquant sauce, salt and pepper, maltre d 'hotel butter as directed in recipe No. 551.

Method.— Cover the snails with salt and water, let them remain in it for 12 hours, then wash and drain well. Put the snails into a saucepan containing sufficient boiling water to cover them, cook gently for about 20 minutes, then drain, and when cool, remove them from their shells. Meanwhile, melt the butter, fry the shallots without browning, add the piquant sauce and snails, and season to taste. Make thoroughly hot, replace the snails in their shells, cover maitre d'hou-1 butter, and serve.

Time. — Altogether, about 35 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to is. per dozen.

639._SOLE, BAKED WITH SHRIMPS. (Fr.— Sole aux Crevettes.) Ingredients.— i medium-sized sole, $ of a pint of picked shrimps, i dessertspoonful of white breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of anch< essence, i egg, a littU- white sauce or milk, cayenne, salt, brown br< crumbs, a little butter.

Method. — Remove the skin, make an incision down the centre as for filleting, and raise as far as possible the flesh on each side. Chop t heshrimps coarsely, add the breadcrumbs, cayenne, salt (if necessary), anchovy-essence, \ the egg, and sufficient white sauce or milk to moisten iYess the mixture lightly inside the fish, and instead of ides together, fill the gap between them with the meat, and flatten the surface of it to the level of the fish. Brush over with the remainder of the egg, co v with pale crumbs, and bake for about 20 minutes in a mode; Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, from is. od. to 2s. gd. Sufficient f->r j to 3 persons. Seasonable at an Tin SOLE (Fr. **). -Next to the turbot. the sole is the most excellent among flat fish. Its flesh is white and delicate and easily dieted, and is highly esteemed, not only as a tahte-nsh. hut abo captured on the Hntuh coasts, hut those caught on the western coast are usually ^Bor in sue. The sole spawns during February and March and during that season its flesh is less palatable. AUkd to the sole is theLcMOM SOCE, which fe lew dettcateta flavour. The flavour ofthesoter taujhl ! v detail of.. i:.••• WO d«fl the ground. It to dragged along the bottom of the sea by the 640.— SOLE, BOILED. (Fr.— Sole bouillie.) Ingredients. — i l.u-^e sole, salt.

Method. \V.i lie fish, but do not md cut off the fins. Have ready a ith sufficient warm water to co. tdd salt put in the sole, and cook gently from 10 to 12

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minutes, according to its size. Drain well, dish on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley and cut lemon, and serve with shrimp, lobster, or plain melted butter sauce.

Time. — After the water boils, 10 to 12 minutes for a large sole. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 4 persons. To CHOOSE SOLES. — The fish should be both thick and firm. If the skin is removed with difficulty and the flesh looks grey, it is good.

641.— SOLE, BAKED FILLETS OF, WITH FORCEMEAT. (Fr— Filets de Sole Farcis.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized sole, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, i dessertspoonful of finelychopped parsley, £ of a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, i egg, salt and pepper, butter, pale-brown breadcrumbs.

Method. — Wash, skin, and fillet the sole. Mix the above ingredients together with as much of the egg as is necessary to moisten the whole. Spread a thin layer of forcemeat on each fillet, and fold in two. Arrange the fillets in a fireproof baking-dish, and fill up the spaces between them with the rest of the forcemeat. Sprinkle lightly with pale-brown breadcrumbs, add a few small pieces of butter, and bake for about 30 minutes in a moderate oven. Serve in the dish in which they are cooked. Time. — To bake, 30 minutes. Average Cost, from is. Qd. to 2S. 3d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. 642.— SOLE WITH CREAM SAUCE. (Fr.— Sole a la Ingredients. — i medium-sized sole, i pint of milk (or milk and fish stock), 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, a blade of mace, a small piece of onion, salt and pepper, lemon-juice.

Method. — Wash, skin, and fillet the sole, and divide each fillet lengthwise into two. Tie each strip loosely into a knot, or fold the ends over each other; place on a greased tin, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with lemon-juice, cover with a greased paper, and bake from 10 to 15 minutes in a moderate oven. To make the stock, simmer the bones of the fish, the onion, and mace in the milk for about 15 minutes, then strain and season to taste. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, cook for 3 or 4 minutes, then pour in the milk, and stir until it boils. Let the sauce simmer 10 minutes at least; then arrange the fish nicely on a hot dish, either in a circle or forming two rows, and strain the sauce over, taking care to coat the fish evenly. Decorate with a little chopped parsley or lobster coral.

Time. — To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. gd. to 2S. 9d. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

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RECIPES FOR < OOKfNG FISH 385 643.— SOLE A L'EPICURIENNE.

Ingredients, -i medium-sized sole, | of a pint of p>od brown sauce, •onful of sherry, i tomato, u button mushrooms, readcmn Method. Wash and skin the sole, and cm Hru>h each piece over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in hoi Iv the brown s.u: •••wpan. put in th< ti.sh. tomato and mushrooms, co\ gently for autes. K..-move the fish carefully, and arrange it on a ho: in the form of a whole sole. Add the sherry to the s.t >on to in over the 1, h with the mushrTime. hour. Average Cost. to 2s. yd. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any tune.

644. -SOLE, FILLETS OF, IN CASES. (/<>.— Filets de Sole en Surprise.) Ingredients. - 2 medium 11 i.irrot.sliced), I ba\ ij ozs. of butter, \ a pint of milk, j ozs. of L ^c, 2 ors. of flu., 3 eggs, salt and pepper to taste, Method. up the ' the milk with t i carrot ar.

roll up. and pi m a bur M. Season with ] (K)ach about 8 mm reparc a SOU!:i the dd the le mainder of butter, and bun- to the boil, stir in the flour whilst lx.ilm», a wooden spoon or spatula until the - of the pan. t hcese, and season with ar lients cool a little, and Mir in the ic 3 eggs and t s of two.

Butter some small china or paper souffle cases, put a dessertspoonful of th< mix1 iiid upon \ a fillet of sole with a • f the liquor of the ti>h. 1 ill up CMinixtu- m a movleiate oven for about 15 minutes. Dish hot, may be baked in one souffle < Time.— J of an hour. Avenge Cost, Sufficient for 8 persons, allou dl souffles for each. Seasonable at any time. 645.— SOLE, A LA COLBERT, FILLETS OF.

Ingredients. I i soles, i oz, of butter, i tcaspoonful of o

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finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, cayenne, pepper and salt, browned breadcrumbs.

Method. — Mix the butter, parsley, lemon- juice and cayenne together on a plate, smooth the mixture into a pat, and set it aside to become firm. Wash, skin and fillet the sole, sprinkle each fillet with salt, pepper and lemon-juice, and roll up, making the outer side of the sole the inside of the roll; the outside skin contracts under the influence of heat, and keeps the rolls in shape. Place on a buttered tin, cover with a greased paper, and bake for about 15 minutes. When done, roll quicky in the browned breadcrumbs, place a small round pat of the Maitre d'Hotel on the top of each, and pour round anchovy or some other sauce.

Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient 646.— SOLE A L'HORLY, FILLETS OF.

Ingredients. — i fairly-large sole. For the marinade, or brine: I tablespoonful of lemon-juice (or the same quantity of mixed tarragon and chili vinegar), i tablespoonful of salad-oil, a teaspoonful each of finely-chopped parsley and onion or shallots, salt and pepper. For the batter: 2 ozs. of flour, £ gill of tepid water, i tablespoonful of salad-oil or melted butter, the white of i egg, salt. Method. — Wash, skin and fillet the sole, and divide each fillet lengthwise and across into two. Place the fillets in a deep dish with the marinade, and let them soak for i hour, then drain well. Have ready the batter, made by mixing the flour and salt smoothly with the water and oil, and lastly adding the stiffly- whipped white of egg. Dip the fillets of fish in the batter, take them out on the point of a skewer, drop them carefully into a deep pan of hot fat, and fry until goldenbrown. Dish on a folded serviette or fish paper, and garnish with fried parsley.

Time. — Altogether, i£ to if hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 647.— SOLES, FILLETS OF, NORMANDY STYLE.

(Fr. — Filets de Sole a la Normande.) Ingredients. — 2 soles, white wine, i finely-chopped shallot, butter, cooked oysters, mussels, mushrooms, Normande sauce (No. 204). Method. — Clean, skin, and trim the soles, remove the fillets, fold them in two, and place them in a buttered saute-pan, season with pepper and salt, moisten with i gill of white wine, sprinkle with a finelychopped shallot, place a few pieces of butter here and there, and cook in the oven for about 10 minutes. Have ready a garniture of prepared oysters, mussels, button mushrooms, and croutes or fleurons

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(little half-moon shapes of puff -paste). Put the fillets on a dish, arrange the garnish neatly, and sauce over with the Normande sauce in which the garniture was cooked. Garnish the sides \vith croutes of bread made from rasped French dinner rolls (buttered slices browned in the oven) or with neurons. Serve the remaining sauce separately in a boat.

--If smelts are in season this dish should be garnished with a few dried snu Its in addition to the other garniture. Time. — To cook, 10 minutes. Average Cost, 45. 3d. to 45. pd. Suffi648. -SOLES, FILLETS OF, POLISH STYLE.

(Fr.— Filets de Soles, a la Polonaise.) Ingredients. S"Ks, white wine, truffle, whiting forcemeat (No. 415), prawns or cravlish. Tomato Sauce (No. 281.) Method.— Skin and fillet the soles, flatten them a little, fold and pare. and put them in a buttered saute-pan. Season with pepp< salt, add a wine-glassful of white \\inc, cover with buttered paper, and ro<»k in the oven for about 10 minutes. Have ready a buttered border mould, decorate the sides with a few fancifully-cut slices of U fill up with " whiting forcemeat," poach in a bain-marie, turn out on a dish, dress the fillets on top of the border in a cin and place a prawn or crayfish tail on top of each fillet. Fill the with a salpicon of truffles, mushrooms, olives, and ills. Sauce over carefully with a well; Time. — To cook, about 10 minutes. Seasonable all 649.— SOLE, ROLLED FILLETS OF, CARDINAL STYLE. (Fr.— Paupiettes de Sole a la Cardinale.) Ingredients. i large or 3 small soles, chopped truffles, light fish, i glass of Chablis, $ of a pint of fish stock, I pill of Cardinal sauce aspoonful of Krona seasoning, lobster Method.— Skin and fillet the soles, flatten each fillet, trim, and season them with salt and pepper. Spread the cut side with a ligh forcemeat, sprinkle over some chopped truffles, and roll up the fillets in the form of olives. Place them, folded side downwards, in a buttered earthenware casserole, moisten with a pi ass of Chablis wine, and the fish stock. Sprinkle with ^ a teaspoonful of Krona seasttered paper, and cook in a hot oven for about 15 minutes. Pour off some of the liquor, and add to it the Cardinal sauce, < e a little. Strain this ce a slier hi let of sole, the cass.

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Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 45. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons. Seasonable all the year.

650.— SOLE, FRIED. (Fr.— Sole frite.) Ingredients. — I medium-sized sole, oil or clarified fat, egg, breadcrumbs, flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash and skin the sole, cut off the fins, and dry well. Add a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper to a teaspoonful of flour, rub it well into the sole, then brush it over with egg, and cover with fine breadcrumbs. Lift it carefully on to the wire drainer, lower it into the hot oil or fat, and fry until it acquires a pale golden-brown colour. Soles may also be fried, though less easily, and sometimes less satisfactorily, in a large frying-pan. The oval form is preferable for the purpose; and in frying, care should be taken to first cook the side of the sole intended to be served uppermost, otherwise breadcrumbs that have become detached from the side first fried may adhere to the side next cooked, and spoil its appearance. Drain well on kitchen paper, and serve garnished with fried parsley.

Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. pd. to 2s. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable all the year.

651.— SOLES, TO FILLET.

Soles for filleting should be large, as the flesh can be more easily separated from the bones, and there is less waste. To skin any fish, it must be kept wet. It is easier to skin if it is stale. Method. — With flat-fish begin at the tail, cut the skin across, but do not cut into the flesh, and loosen the skin along the fins on either side with a skewer or finger. Then tear off the skin with the left hand, keeping the thumb of the right hand well pressed over the backbone to prevent the removal of the flesh with the skin. Use a sharp knife for filleting; keep it pressed to the bone, raise the flesh carefully, remove the fillets, and divide them, into pieces suitable for serving. Fillets of a small sole are not divided; they are rolled, tied, or folded according to requirements.

652.— SOLES, FRICASSEE OF. (Fr. — Fricass6e de Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized soles, i small sole, i yolk of egg, i tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a little finely-grated lemon-rind, salt and pepper. Butter or fat for frying, egg and breadcrumbs, £ of a pint of brown sauce, No. 233, i tablespoonful of sherry, £ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Method. — Remove the skin and bones from the small sole, and chop the flesh finely. Mix with it the breadcrumbs, parsley, lemon-rind, and a little salt and pepper, and bind with a little of the yolk of egg.

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Shape into small balls, fry in hot butter or fat until crisp and lightly browned, and drain well. Skin and trim the soles, coat them carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry them brown in hot fat. Drain well, place the soles in a same-pan, pour over them the hot sauce, add the forcemeat balls and lemon-juice, and season to taste. Simmer gently tor m minutes, then serve the fish with the sauce strained over, and garnished with the balls.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 33. 9d. to 45. 3d. Sufficient for 653.— SOLE AU GRATIN.

In France there is but one way of doing Sole an C.ratin, but in England. mi better method than the French; and a sole cooked " au gratin " after the French manner liiu;lv taMy dish, and once introduced will be pref.-netl to all others.

Ingredients. — i large sole, \ a glass of white wine, preserved mushrooms sliced, Italian sauce (N<>. j;j), mushroom liquor, chopped par>ley. brown breadcrumbs, butter, salt and pepper, lemon-jiu Method. lake the sole, skin both sides, cut off the head and fins, and make se\ ions with a knife across one side of the fish. cut side upwards, on a well-buttered silver-plated " gratin dish," season with pepper and salt, add half a small glass of white i few drops of lemon-juice, a little mushroom liquor, and some chopj i v. Place a row of sli> 1 mushroom•ntre of the fish, and cover with a rich I tali. Sprinkle with brown breadcrumbs, put a t< w nnv bits of butter here and there on top of the h>h, and bake in a r. > minutes, iing to tl:< s the oven »ther 1 ble.

Time. From _-o to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. od. to 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 person-. Seasonable all the \ 654.— SOLE WITH FINE HERBS. (Fr.— Sole aux Fines Herbes.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized sol at of good aelv-cho; i tablespoonful of fiuelv-rhnpprd; \ ateaspoontul r.uh ot anchovy and H.i:. salt and pej Method. Melt the buf pan. ad«l the rest of the in • v and II. and warm gradually, {nit it into tlu- pan as soon as the con ten1 •r \ an hour.

!(ld the ancliovv an«l Harvev's sauce; then place the in the sauce o\

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Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 2 or 655.— SOLE WITH MAITRE D' HOTEL SAUCE.

(Fr.— Sole a la Maitre d' Hotel.) Sole & la Maitre d' Hotel is dressed and served in precisely the same way as Sole a la Creme, with the addition of a dessertspoonful of finelychopped parsley and a teaspoonful of lemon- juice, both of which must be stirred into the sauce just before serving.

656.— SOLES, PAUPIETTES OF, RICHELIEU STYLE.

(Fr. — Paupiettes de Soles a la Richelieu.) Ingredients. — 2 large soles, i whiting, 3 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 3 ozs. of butter, the yolks of 4 eggs, 2 ozs. of lobster-meat, i oz. of lobster butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, i finely-chopped shallot, i gill of white wine, i dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, lemon- juice, pepper and salt, 8 small croutes of fine bread, 8 mushroom heads, i truffle, £ an oz. of flour, \ a pint of white stock.

Method. — Skin the soles, remove the fillets, flatten them a little. Put the bones in a stewpan with % a pint of water and the stock, reduce to half the quantity, and strain. Skin and bone the whiting, pound in a mortar till smooth. Moisten the breadcrumbs with the cream, add these to the pounded fish with the shallot and lobster-meat, pound and mix thoroughly. Now add i£ ozs. of butter and yolks of 3 eggs, season with pepper and salt, mix in a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and rub through a sieve. Spread one side of each fillet with the forcemeat, roll up, trim a little, and wrrap each fillet in a piece of buttered paper. Place them closely in a buttered saute-pan, sprinkle with a few drops of lemon-juice, cook for 5 minutes in the oven, then add the wine, baste well, and cook for another 10 minutes, or longer if required. Spread one side of each croute with the remaining forcemeat, and bake for a few minutes. Take up the fillets, remove the paper, place upright on the croutes, put a mushroom head on each, and keep hot. In the meantime, knead i oz. of butter with the flour, stir over the fire for a few minutes, add the liquor of the fillets and the reduced stock, stir until it boils, and simmer for 15 minutes. Bind with the yolk of egg, strain, work in the lobsterbutter, and season to taste. Dish up the paupiettes, sauce over, sprinkle with chopped parsley, place a star of truffle in the centre of each, and serve.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 55, to 53. 6<L Sufficient for 8

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657.— SOLES WITH MUSHROOMS. (Fr.— Soles aux Champignons.) Ingredients. — 2 medium sized soles, £ a pint of mushroom sauce, milk, salt and popper.

Method. — Skin and trim the soles, place them in an earthc: tficiently large to allow the fish to lie flat, but one above the other if more convenient. Sprinkle them liberally with salt and pepper, barely cover with milk, and put over all a greased paper, to;n the steam. Cook in a moderate oven for 10 or 15 minutes, then drain well, and place the soles on a hot dish. Make the sauce as directed, but before adding the mushrooms, boil well to reduce, in order that some or all of the liquor from the dish may be mixed with it, otherwise the sauce would be too thin. Season to taste, pour over the and ser Time. — To cook the soles, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. '*!., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. StiiQB able at any time.

658.— SOLE, PORTUGUESE STYLE. (Fr.— Sole a la Portugaisc.) Ingredients.— i medium-sized sole, I oz. of butter, 2 or 3 tomatoes. i onion sliced, i finely-chopped shallot, i teaspoonful of i d parsley, } a teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, brown breadcrumbs, grated Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. Method.— Skin the sole and make an incision down the centre as for fillet ins, and raise the flesh from the bone on each side as far as po Mix the butter, onion, parsley, and anchovy-essence well together, and put the mixture inside the sole. Arrange the slices of onion and tomato alternately, and overlapping each other on the top of the fish; or if less onion is preferred, surround each slice of tomato by a single rin£ of onion. Mix together a dessertspoonful of grated Parmesan cheese, and a dessertspoonful of brown breadcrumbs, and sprinkle the fish. Place small pieces of butter on the top, cover with a greased paper, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderate oven. h tomato or brown sa Time.— To bake, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. Sufficient 659.— SPRATS, DRIED. (Fr.-Melettes fum6s.) Dried spr.its should be put into a basin, and boiling water p< then be skinned and served, and this will be; a much better way than boiling them. They can also be

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660.— SPRATS. (Fr.— Melettes or Harenguets.) Sprats should be cooked very fresh. Their condition can be ascertained by their eyes, which should be bright. Wipe them dry; fasten them in rows by a skewer run through the eyes; dredge with flour, and broil them on a gridiron over a nice clear fire. The gridiron should be rubbed with suet. Serve very hot, with cut lemons and brown bread and butter.

Time. — 3 or 4 minutes. Average Cost, id. to 3d. per Ib. Allow i Ib. for 3 persons. Seasonable from November to March. THE SPRAT (Fr. melette). — This well-known migratory tittle fish is allied to the herring, and was formerly supposed to be the young of that fish. There are, however, specifically distinct characteristics which distinguish the sprat on close examination from the herring, the chief being the serrated or notched edge of the abdomen, the greater prominence of the ventral fins, and differences in the structure of the teeth. The sprat abounds in the North Atlantic and Mediterranean Seas, and on many parts of the British coasts, where in the winter and spring they appear in immense shoals, and are captured in vast quantities. The flesh of the sprat is wholesome and well-flavoured. Large quantities of sprats are used by the farmers near the coasts for manure. Sprats are also dried and cured in a similar manner to red herrings. In Scotland the sprat is called the GARVIE. 66 1. —SPRATS, TO PRESERVE.

Ingredients. — \ a peck of sprats, i Ib. of salt, 2 ozs. of baysalt, 2 ozs. of saltpetre, i oz. of sal-prunella, a little cochineal. Method. — Pound all the ingredients, except the sprats, in a mortar, then put the sprats in a pan in layers with the seasoning, press them tightly down, and cover close. They will be ready for use in 5 or 6 months.

To CHOOSE SPRATS. — Choose those with a silvery appearance, brightness being a sign of fresh662.-SPRAT PASTE.

Method. — To make sprat-paste, which is similar to anchovy-paste, bake the sprats with a little butter in an earthenware dish, remove the heads, tails, backbone and skin, pound the fish well in a mortar, and rub through a fine sieve. Season well with salt, cayenne and pepper, add a good pinch of ground mace, and anchovy-essence to taste. Press into small pots, and cover with clarified butter. Time. — 5 or 6 minutes. Seasonable from November to March. 663.— STURGEON, BAKED. (Fr.— Esturgeon roti au Vin Blanc.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of sturgeon, salt and pepper to taste, i small bunch of herbs, the juice of \ a lemon, £ of a Ib. of butter, £ a pint of white wine.

Method. — Cleanse the fish thoroughly, skin it, and remove the inside. Have ready a large baking-dish, lay the fish in it, sprinkle over the seasoning and herbs very finely minced, and moisten it with the lemon-

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FOR COOKING FISH 303.ml \vinc. Place the butter in small pieces over the whole <>f the it it in the oven, and baste frequently; brown it nicely, am: with its own gnr Time. —From i to i } hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 33. 6d. per Ib. Seasonable from April to September.

s (Fr. fstttrseom) was highly esteemed by the Roman*, and in the time of the Emperor Sevenis it was regarded as one of the most important delicacies of the table. Its virtues are celebrated by the poet Martial. The sturgeon is an inhabitant of the Ba Caspian, and the Black Seas, and of the Danube, the Volga, the Don, and other Urge nvera. It nds in the rivers of North America, and is occasionally taken in the Thames, in the Esk. and in formerly it belonged by hereditary right to the King. The avenge length of the common sturgeon b about 6 feet, but other species, as the great or white sturgeon frequently dimensions. The STKM.KT, a smaller species about j feet in length, found in the Caspian Sea and some Russian rivers, is the most delicate in flavour, and its roe b the most highly esteemed for nuking caviare. In general form the sturgeon b somewhat slender; the body b covered with bony plates in longitndmtl r ws; to • rtt town* t twtk ti rttvrt i a •:.• mm M* i i: to IM.1 tl HM of a proboscis. Its tail is ketencmal. or unequally lobed. The sturgeon, besides its exsh. b valuable for its roe, from which caviare b prepared, and abo for its air-bladder, which furnishes the finest rengMff; both these products constituting important articles of commerce. 664. -STURGEON, BAKED OR ROASTED.

Ingredients. I ncl of a sturgeon, veal forcemeat ng.

Method. — Was.in the fish, split it down ti side, carefully;: fill the - -\ith the fore.

i in its original form, and tie a buttered paper over the in a baking-dish or tin baste well, and bake from i to 1 1 hours in a mo '.

basting frcqii' with good brown gravy or a sn Time. — Altogether, \\ to i Average Cost, is. 6d. to 33. 6d.. Seasonable:il to Sep in»fon m.iy U- pl.imlv U«il«-«l. and served with Dutch sauce. The tx>ihng.

665. -STURGEON CUTLETS. (Fr. — Cotelettes d'Esturgeon.) Ingredients. — ^ Ib. of sturgeon, | a tcaspoonful of • >pped teaspoon fill of finely-grated Icnmn-rind. e^g r.nd 1 tomato sauce (No.

Ingredients. Cut the fish it utlet1 season with salt a:

in hot fat until lightly browned on Time. To trv..iU,ut s. Average Cost, from Sufficient: i '. or 8 persons. Seasonable. April •

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666.— STURGEON, MARINADED. (Fr.— Esturgeon marine.) Ingredients. — 2 or 3 Ib. of sturgeon, i£ ozs. of butter, i Spanish onion chopped, i small carrot sliced, £ of a turnip coarsely-chopped, i strip of celery chopped, 2 bay-leaves, i dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, £ a pint of vinegar, i pint of fish stock or water, i blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, \ a teaspoonful of salt.

Method. — Cold remains may be used for this dish instead of raw fish, which, when used, must be gently stewed for i hour in a little stock or water. This stock is employed to form the basis of the marinade. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the onion, carrot, turnip, celery, bay-leaves and parsley, cover closely, cook gently for about 20 minutes, then add the vinegar, fish stock or water, mace, peppercorns and salt. Simmer gently for 1 5 minutes, then turn the preparation into an earthenware vessel, and as soon as it is quite cold put in the fish. Let it remain for about 12 hours, then serve with a little of the liquor strained Time. — About 2 hours, when using raw fish. Average Cost, sturgeon, from is. 6d. per Ib. Sufficient for 8 or 12 persons. Seasonable, April to 667.— STURGEON, PROVENCALE STYLE.

(Fr. — Esturgeon a la Provengale.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of sturgeon in one slice, stock, i-J- ozs. of butter, slices of ham or bacon, £ a clove of garlic, % of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, flour.

Method. — Wash and dry the fish thoroughly, and coat it lightly with flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the fish on both sides, and when nicely browned cover it with strips of ham or bacon. Pour a little stock round to about half the depth of the fish, add a little salt and pepper, and the garlic and herbs. Cover closely, and simmer gently from 40 to 60 minutes, according to size and the age of the fish from which the piece was taken. Serve the fish with the gravy strained round, or, if preferred, send it to table simply garnished with sliced lemon and parsley. Serve brown sauce or anchovy sauce separately.

Time. — From i to i£ hours. Average Cost, from is. 6d. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable, April to September. 668.— STURGEON, STEWED. (Fr.— Ragout d'esturgeon.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of sturgeon, white stock, i glass of sherry or Madeira, i tablespoonful of capers, i£ ozs. of butter or fat, vinegar, flour, salt and pepper, i lemon.

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Method. — Wash.and dry the fish thoroughly, and cut it into slices, from | to i inch in thickness. Cover these with vinegar, let them soak for 5 or 6 minutes, then drain and dry them, and coat them lightly with flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Melt the butter or fat, fry the fish on both sides until lightly browned, and drain them free from fat. Place the fish in a stewpan, add the wine, and as much stock as will barely cover them, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover v, stew gently for about i hour, then remove to a hot dish, strain ravy, and return it to the stewpan. Season the gravy to taste, add the capers and a little lemon-juice or vinegar, make it thoroughly hot, and pour it over the fish. Garnish with sliced lemon, and servo.

Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, from is. 6d. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable, April to September. 669.— TENCH, BAKED. (Fr.— Tanche roti.) Ingredients. — i tench, 3 ozs. of butter or fat, 2 shallots finely-chopped, 2 lemons, £ a pint of white sauce, i tables poonful of coarsely-chopped gherkin, salt and pepper.

Method. — Scale and clean the fish thoroughly, remove the gills, which arc always muddy, then sprinkle the fish liberally with lemonand put it aside for i hour. Melt the butter in a baking-dish, put in the fish, and bash prinkle with salt and pepper, and add the shallots. Cover the fish with a greased paper, and bake gently from 25 to 35 minutes, according to size. Make the sauce as directed, he gherkin and a tablespoonful of lemon-juice, and season to taste. Serve the fish with the sauce poured over. Time. — About $ an hour. Average Cost, uncertain, tench being seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable from inber to March.

670.— TENCH, BOILED. (Fr.- Tanche Bouilli.) Ingredients. — i tench, ^ a pint of anchovy, parsley or piquant sauce 265), lemon, parsley, salt and pepper.

Method. — Scale and clean the fish thoroughly, and remove the gills. Rul> the inside of the fish with salt, applying it liberally under the backbone, which should be raised for the purpose. Let it stand for:-s, and afterwards rinse the fish well in cold water. Put it into a saucepan containing just sufficient hot, but not quite boiling, salted water to cover it, and simmer gently from 15 to 25 minutes, according to size. PiMin well, and serve garnished with sliced lemon and ley.

Time. — From 15 to 25 minutes, to boil. Average Cost, uncertain, ag seldom offered for sale. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.

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671.— TENCH, MARINADED AND BROILED.

(Fr. — Tanche grille.) Ingredients. — Small tench; to 2 or 3 allow i small onion finely-chopped, 2 shallots finely-chopped, i dessertspoonful of parsley finely-chopped, £ of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, salt and pepper, piquant sauce.

Method.— Wash and clean the fish thoroughly, remove the gills, and completely cover the fish with boiling water. Let them remain for 5 minutes, then dry and scale them carefully. Place them in a deep dish, add a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and the onion, shallot, parsley, herbs and salad-oil. Allow the tench to lie for 2 hours, meanwhile basting frequently with the marinade, and then drain well. Have ready some pieces of well-oiled foolscap of suitable size, enclose each fish separately, and broil it over a clear fire for 10 or 15 minutes, according to size. When done, remove the papers and serve the fish with the piquant sauce poured over.

Time. — About 2| hours. Average Cost, uncertain, tench being seldom offered for sale. Allow i for each person.

THE TENCH (Fr. tanche). — This fish generally inhabits stagnant and weedy waters, and rivers and ponds abounding in rushes. It thrives best in standing waters, and is found more frequently in pools and ponds, where it feeds on refuse vegetable matter, than in running streams. Tench taken from the latter are preferable for the table, the flavour being superior; those captured where the mud is foul have usually a bad taste if cooked immediately, but this may be obviated by placing the fish when caught in clear water. The tench is very tenacious of life, and may be preserved or carried for a long distance covered in damp weeds. In colour this fish is a greenish-olive above, and of a light tint below. It spawns in May and June. The flesh of the tench is somewhat coarse and insipid The tench is a member of the carp family, and is frequently placed in ponds with carp. 672.— TENCH, MATELOT OF. (Fr.— Tanche en Matelote.) Ingredients. — 3 tench, 12 sauce oysters, i pint of good stock, £ of a pint of port wine or claret, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped onion, 12 button mushrooms, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, i blade of mace, i teaspoonful of anchovy-essence, i dessertspoonful of lemon- juice, salt and pepper, Method. — Wash, clean and scale the fish, and cut each into 2 or 3 pieces. Put the stock, onion, bouquet-garni, mushrooms, cloves, mace, with a good pinch of cayenne, into a shallow stewpan. Simmer gently for 20 minutes, then put in the fish, cover closely, and simmer gently for \ an hour. Meanwhile blanch the 'oysters in their own liquor, remove the beards, cut each oyster in two, and strain the liquor into the stewpan. Melt the butter in another stewpan, add the flour, and cook it for 4 or 5 minutes. When the fish is ready, remove it carefully to a hot dish, strain the sauce over the flour and butter, and

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IvI-( II'KS FOR COOKING FI>H stir until smooth. Add to it the mushrooms, lemon-juice, and wine,;i to taste, simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then put in the o, and pour the sauce over the fish.

Time.— About i hour. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 6 or 7 Seasonable from November to March.

i cndi may also be plainly boiled or bal.

673.— TROUT, BAKED. (Fr.— Truite rotie au four.) Ingredients. — 2 trout, veal forcemeat (see forcemeats), 3 ozs. of butler, I oz. of flour, i dessertspoonful of capers, i teaspoonful of lenumjiii<< poonful of anchovy-ess. tit.

Method. Clean, s< the ion • 1, put it iiiMd i|> the openings.

or dish will; and buK Unit \ an hour, 1 and the rest of the butt' nd when the ii^}\ is ready n it to a, and strain t! dish on to thand butter. Stir until it boils and becomes smooth, then add the capers, lemon-juice, anchovy -essence, and season to taste. Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then pour over the fish, and sTime.— i hour, altogether. Average Cost, is. to js. per Ib. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from February to Septcml>er. 674. - TROUT, BOILED. (Fr.— Truite bouillie.) Ingredients, j medium M/<d u t,i pint of m<h<d butter,; tal.lespoontul <-i » o.u -li and jMethod. and wash the trout, barely cover t; >ut not quite boili- d water, and simmer gently from 10, according to si/.1 the eason to taste, pour o\ Time. -From i<> to i: minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2S. per ib. Suincient for 3 or 4 persons.

675.— TROUT, FILLETED AND FRIED.

(Fr.— Filets de Truite frites.) Ingredients. — 2 medium-sized trout, i level tables jxxjnlul of flour, -poonful of salt, \ a salt spoonful 1 breadcrumbs, irslcy for garnish, anchovy, shrimp or tomato (see Sauces).

Method. and thon lit them down the bntie. Mix i'ie fl«»i:

carefully with 1

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crumbs. Have ready a deep pan of fat, and fry the fish until lightly browned and crisp. Drain well, garnish with sliced lemon and parsley, and serve the sauce separately.

Time. — To fry, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2s. per Ib.

Seasonable from February to September. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. 676.— TROUT, FILLETS OF, WITH TOMATO SAUCE.

(Fr. — Filets de Truite a la Tomate.) Ingredients. — i or 2 trout, i|- ozs. of butter, 2 shallots finely-chopped, £ a teaspoonful of parsley finely-chopped, £ of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, £ of a pint of hot tomato sauce, No. 281. Method. — Prepare the trout as directed in the preceding recipe, and place the fillets in a baking-dish, in which the butter has been previously melted. Season liberally with salt and pepper, add the shallots, parsley and herbs, and cover closely with a greased paper. Cook gently for about 20 minutes, then transfer the fish to a hot dish, pour the prepared sauce over, and serve.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2s. per Ib. Seasonable from February to September.

677.— TROUT, STEWED. (Fr.— Truite au Vin Rouge.) Ingredients. — 2 good-sized trout, % an onion thinly sliced, a little parsley, 2 cloves, I blade of mace, 2 bay-leaves, a little thyme, salt and pepper to taste, i pint of stock, No. 5 or 7, i glass of claret or port wine, i oz. each of butter and flour.

Method. — Wash the fish very clean, and wipe it quite dry. Lay it in a stewpan, with all the ingredients but the butter and flour, and simmer gently for £ an hour. While the fish is cooking, melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 4 or 5 minutes. When ready, place the fish on a hot dish, strain the liquor over the flour and butter, and stir until it boils and becomes smooth. Season to taste, pour over the fish, and serve.

Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. to 2s. per Ib. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from February to September, but in the best condition in August.

THE TROUT (Fr. truite), the name given to various species of the Salmonidae, or salmon family especially to the common trout (Salmo fario), which abounds in many of the rivers, lakes and clear running streams of Britain and northern Europe. The colour of the trout is yellowish-brown above varied with reddish-brown, and crimson spots on the lateral line; the abdomen is silvery-white, while a rich, golden-yellow extends along the under part of the sides. The flesh and tint of the trout vary in different localities. In weight, the common trout averages about i Ib. Towards the end of September trout quit the deep water to which they have retired in the hot weather — the trout is very partial to shady nooks— for the purpose of spawning on the gravelly bottoms of rivers or streams. During the spawning season trout become soft and unwholesome as food. Other species of trout are the Lochleven trout peculiar to that loch, of larger dimensions than the common trout, and forming a distinct species; the Great Lake trout, common in some of the large lakes of England and Ireland, sometimes attaining to a considerable size and weight— in colour it is dark-brown, with a purple tint; and the salmon trout, which, like the salmon, migrates to the sea and returns to spawn in the rivers.

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678.— TURBOT WITH AUBERGINES. (Fr.— Turbot aux Aubergines.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of turbot (middle cut), 2 ozs. of butter, the juice of | a lemon, i tablespoonful finely-chopped parsley, i dessertspoonful of meat glaze, 3 aubergines, salt and pepper, flour, milk, olive-oil, and:tied butter.

Method. — Remove the dark skin from the fish, free it from bones, and cut it into 6 or 8 even-sized slices. Trim these neatly, season with and pepper, dip them into milk, and then into flour. Melt about i£ ozs. of butter in a saute-pan, place in the fillets of turbot, cover with a buttered paper, and cook in the oven for 15 minutes, or longer if needed, bast. Remove the skin from the aubergines, cut them into slices, dip them in flour, and fry a golden-brown in a frying-pan containing olive-oil and clarified bu ! proportions. Drain them and season with salt. Dress the turlxjt on.m oblong dish, sprinkle over the lemon-juice, then.md lastly some nut-brown clarified butter. Garnish with the 1 aubergines. Just before serving sprinkle the previously hea: glaze over the fish.

Time. — About | hour. Attract Cost, 3*. 6d. to 45. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable:ne.

679.— TURBOT, BAKED FILLETS OF. (Fr.— Filets de Turbot au Gratin.) Ingredients. — The remains of cold turbot, lobster sauce left from the preceding day, egg and breadcrumbs, cayenne and salt to taste, minced parsley, nutmeg, lemon- jr.

Method. — After having cleared the fish from all skin and bone, c! to square pieces of an equal size; brush them over with egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs mixed with a lit tic minced parsley and seasoning. Lay nllets in a baking-dish, with sufficient butter to baste them with. minutes, and keep > well moistened with butter, L little lemon- juice and grated nutmeg to the cold lobster sauce; hot, and pour over the fish, which must be well drained fi h with parsley and cut lemon.

Time.— From 30 to 40 minutes. Seasonable at any time. -Cold turbot thus warmed in the remains of lobster sauce will be er than if the fish were put again in water.

680.— TURBOT, BOILED. (Fr.— Turbot bouilli.) Ingredients. — i medium-sized turbot, salt and pepper. Method, i mptj the lish, trim the fins, but do not cut gelatinous parts about them are esteci eat Make ai \\ down the middle of the back, to lessen

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4oo HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT the possibility of the skin on the white side cracking; and rub the white side of the fish with a cut lemon to increase its whiteness. Have ready the turbot-kettle, with as much hot water as will cover the fish, add salt to taste, put in the fish, bring gradually to near boiling point, then simmer very gently from 15 to 20 minutes. Garnish with lobster coral, parsley, and cut lemon, and serve with Hollandaise, anchovy, shrimp or lobster sauce.

Time. — 15 to 20 minutes, after the water boils. Average Cost, 75. 6d. to 153. Sufficient for 8 or 10 persons. Seasonable at any time. THE TURBOT (Fr. turbot) is the most highly-esteemed, and, next to the halibut, the largest of the flat-fish found on the British coasts. It frequently attains a very large size weighing from 50 Ib. to 90 Ib. The North Sea and the south-eastern coasts of England are the principal fishery grounds for turbot. The flesh of the turbot is firm, white, and gelatinous, and is improved by being kept a day cr two before being cooked. Halibut is frequently sold for turbot; the two fish are, however, sufficiently distinct, the upper parts of the former being quite smooth and covered with oblong soft scales, which firmly adhere to the body, while those of the turbot are marked with large, unequal, and obtuse tubercles.

68 1. —TURBOT WITH CREAM SAUCE. (Fr.— Turbot a la Crime.) Ingredients. — The remains of cold turbot, i£ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, \ a pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream, i teaspoonful of lemonjuice, a pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper, cayenne. Method. — Remove the bones and skin from the fish, and separate it into large flakes. Melt the butter in a stewpan,add the flour, and cook for 5 minutes; then pour in the milk, stir until it boils, and let it afterwards simmer gently for 10 minutes. Strain and return to the stewpan, put in the fish, and let it become thoroughly hot, then add the lemon-juice, cream, and seasoning to taste, and serve. Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d., exclusive of the fish. Seasonable at any time.

682.— TURBOT WITH ITALIAN SAUCE,FILLETS OF.

(Fr.— Filets de Turbot a 1'Italienne.) Ingredients. — The remains of cold turbot, Italian sauce (No. 252). Method. — Clear the fish carefully from the bone, and take away all the skin, which gives an unpleasant flavour to the sane 3. Make the sauce hot, lay in the fish to warm through, but do not let it boil. Garnish with croutons.

Time. — 5 minutes. Seasonable all the year.

683.— TURBOT AU GRATIN.

Ingredients. — Remains of cold turbot, Bechamel (see Sauces), or any good white sauce, breadcrumbs, butter.

Method. — Cut the flesh of the turbot into small dice, carefully freeing it from all skin and bone. Put the dice into a stewpan, and moisten with 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of Bechamel sauce. Let it get thoroughly

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RECIPES FOR COOKINV. FISH 401 hot, but do not allow it to boil. Spread the mixture on a dish, cover with linely-.urated l»n»\vm-d breadcrumbs, and pi. ice small pieces of butt he top. Brown it in tl. r with a salamander. Time. — Altogether, £ an hour. Seasonable at any time. 684.— TURBOT WITH WINE, PAUPIETTES OF.

(Fr. — Paupiettes de Turbot au Vin Blanc.) Ingredients. — 2\ to 3 Ib. of turbot, \ a Ib. of whiting forcemeat,;i5). i shallot, a sprig of parsley, 6 pn ushrooms, 3 to 4 ozs. of butter, 2 small glasses of Oiablis or Sauterne, \ a pint <»i Yeloin-:nande sauce, \ a gill of double « \ a lemon, pepper and Method. the tillets from the bones of tl uhite and the bl.iek skin, ll.itten each pic* r with a wet and (lit n: llets about tl.

nllet a^'iin, turn ne.ulv and season \\itli 1 salt, (hop \J the peeled sli.dlnt. th<- ji K>ms, an« 1 on one side of pared til! roll up n< up each lillet in paper. A:

a an upright posi \> saut6-] 3 ozs. of melted butter; place the lid on the pan, cook for minutes in the oven; then add tin- 1 the stock, cooking in the oven until done. Baste occasionally with the 1 As SOOn as the tillrts are (lone t.ike them up, drai; the paper inudal ! hot. Add the white sauce to reduce well, K:M tinish \\nli. Add a lev, • lemon-):: over th« Time. — To cook, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 5*. od. to (>s. 6d. Sumcient for 8 or 9 persons. Seasonable at any • 685.— WATER SOUCHET.

Ingredients. — Flounders soles, perch or tcnrh. Method. Any of the alxivc-nan. ill l>o found suitable. • into a stewpan with • \\ bunch of parsley and salt to Cook ne, then tra ftsh carefully to..

spoonful of nncly-cho; and add the h.]uor, then srrvv. Hrown bread and b;. ild be •und.

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686.— WATER SOUCHET. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — Plaice, flounders or perch, parsley and parsley-roots, Method. — Wash and trim the fish, put the trimmings and 2 or 3 fish into a stewpan with i quart of water, a little salt, parsley, and a few parsley-roots. Simmer until all is quite tender, then pass through a sieve and return to the stewpan. Cook the remaining fish slowly in the liquor, and when done, lift out carefully into a deep dish, add i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, strain the liquor over, then serve. 687. WHITEBAIT. (Fr.— Blanchailles. ) Ingredients. — Whitebait, ice, flour, cayenne, salt, frying fat. Method. — The frying of whitebait is a most difficult task for cooks with little experience. The following is a well-tried method which, if carefully followed, never fails to produce satisfactory results: Put the whitebait with a piece of ice in a basin, which must be kept on the ice. When required for cooking, spread the fish on a cloth to drain, then sprinkle a clean cloth with flour, put a small quantity of whitebait on this, sprinkle over some more flour, fold the cloth and shake it well, holding the ends of the cloth with both hands. Turn the contents into a wire drying basket, and shake it so as to get rid of the superfluous flour. Plunge the basket into a pan of clean, very hot lard, and fry rapidly over a bright fire for 3 or 4 minutes. Keep moving the basket all the time the frying goes on. Take up the basket, shake it so as to strain off the fat, and turn the fish on to a cloth or paper. Repeat this until all the whitebait are fried. Season with cayenne or black pepper, and fine salt. Dish up on a folded napkin or lace paper, and send the fish to table accompanied with quarters of lemon and thin slices of brown bread and butter.

Time. — From 3 to 4 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. per quart. Seasonable from January to September.

WHITEBAIT (Fr. blanchaille). This diminutive fish, considered a great delicacy on account of the tenderness and sweetness of its flesh, is allied to the herring, and was formerly thought to be the young of that fish, but the shape of its body is more compressed. It is of a pale silvery hue, and greenish on the back, and varies in length from 2 ins. to 5 ins. The whitebait is caught during the spring and summer in the estuary of the Thames, in the Clyde, and other rivers. The " Whitebait Dinner •• of the members of the Cabinet, just before the prorogation of Parliament, at the Trafalgar, Greenwich, was an annual custom of some standing, but it is now discontinued. 688.— WHITING, BAKED. (Fr.— Merlan au Gratin.) (See Sole au Gratin, No. 653, use skimmed whiting, and proceed in the same manner.) 689.— WHITING WITH SWEET HERBS, BAKED.

(Fr. — Merlan aux Fines Herbes.) (See Sole with Fin? Herbs, No. 654.)

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690.— WHITING, BOILED. (Fr.— Merlan bouilli.) Ingredients. — Whiting, salt.

Method. — Clean the fish, but do not skin them. Have ready sufficient warm water to cover them, salt it slightly, put in the fish, bring gently to the boil, and simmer ior 7 or 8 minutes (if small). Drain well, on a folded napkin, garnish with parsley, and serve with a suitable Time. — 7 or 8 minutes for small whiting. Average Cost, ^d. to 9d. each. Allow i small whiting for each person. Seasonable all the year, but:om October to March.

THE WHITING (Fr. mtrla*).— This well-known fish belongs to the cod family, bat is destitute of the barbule seen in the cod and haddock. Its flesh is the most delicate and palatable of any nsh of its tribe. The body of the whiting is compressed, and the upper jaw projects beyond the lower. It is a smaller fish, and of a more elegant shape than the haddock; its average weight is i J Ib. The whitiug is caught in abundance on the British coasts and in the northern European seas. 691.— WHITING, BROILED. (Fr.— Merlan Grille.) Ingredients.— Whiting, a little oil or bu:

Method.— Wash, and thoroughly dry the fish. Brush them over with a little oil or melted butter, and broil over a clear fire. Time. — From 6 to 8 minutes, for a small whiting. Avenge Coil, jd. to oxi. each. Allow, i small whiting for each person. Seasonable all t!

To CHOOSE WHITING.— Choose lor the firmness of its fle»h. and the «flv«ry hoe of its, THE POLLACK (Fr. Merlan).— Like the pout, the pollack bears a strong resemblance to the a gregarious fish and swims in shoals, and is caught off the coasts of Britain, chiefly around the northern parts. The flesh of the poUack is good eating. It i* also known as the M coalfish," and in Scotland it bean the local name of " Lythe> 692.— WHITING, FRIED. (Fr.— Merlan Frit.) Ingredients.— 2 whiting, i egg, breadcrumbs, flour, salt, pepper, fry ing-fat or oil.

Method. — Wash, clean, and dry the fish, and remo\ skins, and fasten the tail in the mouth by means of a small skewer. Mix poonful of flour with salt and pepper, and rub it well into:i; then brush them over with egg, coat them with breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in hot fat. Serve on a fish paper, garnished ried par^ Time. — To fry, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to Qd. each. Sum cient, i small whiting for each person. Seasonable all the year, but best from October to March.

Tut T • rrnr). also known as the DIB is found about the mouth of the Thames, and genet;orthem »cav It bears a striking resemblance to the md is frequently called the WHITING POUT. The pout is esteemed as an excellent table-fifth.

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GENERAL REMARKS ON COOKING MEAT CHAPTER XIII Instructions for Roasting, Boiling, Baking, Stewing, Braising and Frying.

The Probability is that the Human Race for a long period in the early history of mankind lived upon roots, fruits, raw fish, shell-fish, birds' eggs, small reptiles, and insects. When man acquired the art of fashioning weapons from the flints which he wrought into arrow-heads, spearpoints, and axes, he was enabled to chase and slay the animals around him, and thus obtain raw meat. A survival of this custom is seen in the name of the Eskimo, from the appellation ESKIMANTSIC, or " raw-flesh-eaters," given to them by the native tribes of New England, and retained in the French form of the word ESQUIMAUX. Bows and arrows have been found among the natives of all climates and latitudes, but their use indicates an advancement in civilization reached only during many centuries. The early period of man's existence is divided into four epochs or ages, not implying, however, that these epochs were simultaneously reached by all the inhabitants of the globe in their progress towards civilization, for there are still races in their stone age. The first epoch is the Paleolithic, or old stone age, when the implements fashioned by man were sharp chipped flints. To this succeeded the Neolithic, or new stone age, characterized by polished stone implements, and the domestication of animals. Next followed the Bronze age, with its weapons and articles of that metal, and lastly the Iron age, with its gradual development and progress in the arts and manufactures. The successive stages through which man has advanced to civilization may also be classified in three divisions: Savage, Barbarous, and Civilized. The first is represented by the savage of the South American forests, who lives on wild plants and animals; the second by the African, who tills the ground and domesticates animals for his use; the third by the civilized European, associated with all that the word civilization denotes, of moral, intellectual, social, and material development.

The duration of the Paleolithic Age cannot be determined. Unpolished stone implements, bone, and horn have been found associated with the bones and teeth of the mammoth, or woolly-haired elephant,

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\KKAL RKMAKK> ( >N COOKING MI.Ai 405 and other wild animals long extinct, in the old drift; the glacial }>erk>d, which wv. in Kurope thousands of years before the Neolithic Ag- I even le that the existence of man may date from a still earlier pro 1 period.

The Discovery of Fire i^ lost in the dim ages of antiquity. N found so low in the scale ithout its possession; even among the relics found of man's existence during the mammoth period, fragments of charcoal and burnt bones 1. The methods pursued by savage races for producing e by the friction of one piece of wood against another, i use of a fire-drill, c< -fa point' ipidly in a hole made in a p-.<ve of wood, or by means of a species of bow-drill. by this primitive method. Later, the old tire-drill was imp upon by the flint and - 1 now the safety match in coi of kindling a fire or producing a light.

. h value is the possession of urn for warmth, cookis food and other purposes, that the ancient Greeks in their mythology ascribed its origin to the gods, from whom Prometheus, the brother of Atlas, stole it, concealed in a tube. By the Parsis, the nts of the ai ligion of Persia or Zoroast led as the emblem of the Divine power, and its worship forms a ligious ritual.

Fire having been discovered, mankind endeavoured to make use of it for drying and afterwards for cooking th.nces employed in the.»f food \\ contact with o become smoked, and have an ui - di^ edicd by passing spits through it, and j ' above the burning fuel. Thus grilling was: is this mode of cookery, yet all meat cooked in this way r's time the art of cookery had not advanced much beyond the method of roasting, for we read.e hero Achilles and his friend Patrodus regaled the three n leaders on 1.e,and broiled meat. It is noticeable, too, iomer docs not speak of boiled meat anywhere in his poems. \\ •• read in the Scriptures, of Sarah cooking her cakes on the hearth; and in to the ancient Jews, they were distinctly directed to bring cakes "baked in the •»• have > a kind of pot, sometimes called " kail-pot," I t was a vessel completely closed, isc was buried bodily in hot ashes. The trip*. n record. 1 d wood t ^ the which point wa> HIM rtcd an iron hook to hoi adlc of the

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Methods of Cooking Meat. — Roasting, baking, boiling, stewing, braising, frying and grilling are the usual methods of cooking animal food. To explain the philosophy of these simple operations, we must notice the effects that are produced by heat on the principal constitutents of flesh. When finely chopped, mutton or beef is soaked for some time in a small quantity of water, and then subjected to slight pressure, the juice of the meat is extracted, and there is left a white, tasteless residue, consisting chiefly of muscular fibre. When this residue is heated to between 180° and 200° F., the fibres shrink together, and become hard and horny. The influence of a higher temperature on the soluble extracts is not less remarkable. When the watery infusion which contains the nutritive constituents of the meat is gradually heated, it soon becomes turbid, and, when the temperature reaches about 1 60°, flakes of whitish matter separate. These flakes are ALBUMIN, a substance precisely similar in all its properties to the white of egg. When the temperature of the watery extract is raised to 158°, the colouring matter of the blood coagulates, and the liquid, which was originally tinged red by this substance, is left perfectly clear, and almost colourless. When evaporated, even at a gentle heat, this residual liquid gradually becomes brown, and acquires the flavour of roast meat. The fibres of meat are surrounded by a liquid which contains albumin in its soluble state, just as it exists in the unboiled egg. During the operation of boiling or roasting this substance coagulates. The tenderness of well-cooked meat is consequently proportioned to the amount of heat employed, and the slight or complete coagulation of the albumin deposited in its substance. Meat is done when it has been heated throughout only to the temperature of coagulating albumin, provided the heat is continued long enough; it is thoroughly done when it has been heated through its whole mass to the temperature at which the colouring matter of the blood coagulates; it is overdone when the heat has been continued long enough to harden the fibres.

During the operations of Boiling, Roasting and Baking, fresh beef and mutton, when moderately fat, according to Johnston, lose, on an average about: — In Boiling. In Baking. In Roasting.

4 Ib. of beef lose i Ib. -.. i Ib. 3 ozs... i Ib. 5 ozs. 4 Ib. of mutton lose 14 ozs... i Ib. 4 ozs... i Ib. 6 ozs. More recent experiments also show that animal matter loses more weight by roasting than by boiling. In roasting, the loss arises from the melting out of the fat and evaporation of water; but the nutritious matter remains condensed in the cooked meat, whereas, in boiling, the gelatin is partly abstracted. Roast meats are therefore more nutritious than boiled meats; but in consequence of the chemical decomposition of the fat of roast meats, due to a long continued exposure to an intense heat, they are less easily digested.

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GENERAL REMARKS ON COOKING MEAT 407 Roasting. — In roasting, the joint must be suspended where the rays of heat from the fire may fall directly upon it. In localities where this excellent and wholesome method of cooking is largely practised, kitchens are provided with a primitive meat-screen, a three-leaved folding " hastener," lined on the inside with a bright metal which reflects the heat. Therefore, although roasting may be described as cooking by radient heat, it is a process in which reflected heat plays a secondary and by no means unimportant part. By many, roasting is condemned as an extravagant method of cooking. Undoubtedly meat loses considerably in weight when roasted, but there is no real loss; the melted fat remains as dripping; any meat juice which escapes coagulates and forms the basis of the gravy, and by the evaporation of water, to which the greater part of the loss is due, the nutritives of the meat have simply become more concentrated. The consumption of coal in roasting is not excessive when the fire is properly built up. Some 30 or 40 minutes before the fire must be ready, the front of the grate should be filled with small lumps of coal, and the back with a few lumps mixed with a considerable quantity of slightly-wetted small coal. As the front of the fire burns away, the embers from the back can be brought forward, and small coal or cinders put in their place, thus keeping the front of the fire clear and bright. Immediately the fire is made up the 44 hastener," or meat-screen, should be drawn around it, so th surface may become thoroughly hot before the meat is put down to roast. When the fire is clear and bright the joint should be placed quite close to it for 10 or 15 minutes; and as soon as it is put down it should be well basted with hot dripping, and this greatly as> forming an impervious surface through which the juices of the meat cannot escape. The joint must be frequently basted during the first halfhour, and afterwards every 10 or 15 minutes. When properly roasted and sufficiently basted, the joint ought to be nicely browned without the aid of flour. A little salt and pepper is sometimes sprinkled on the joint before serving, but it is not necessary. It was considered an improvement to the gravy when the old custom obtained of pouring a little over the joint.

It is impossible to fix the exact time required for roasting meat, >e so much depends upon the form and thickness of the joint, and its age and condition. The general rule is to allow 15 minutes for each pound of beef and mutton, and 15 minutes over; and jo minutes for each pound of veal and pork, and 20 minutes over. Meat of recently killed beasts requires longer cooking than meat which has hung for some tim<: rn weather joints require rather less time for roasting than in cold. A square solid piece of beef will not cook as quickly as a shoulder of mutton of equal weight; and rolled and stuffed meat must be allowed a longer time than if the joints were not: in this manner.

White Meats, and the Meat of Young Animals, require to be very \\< 11

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roasted, both to be pleasant to the palate and easy of digestion. Thus veal, pork and lamb should be thoroughly done to the centre. Mutton and Beef, on the other hand, do not, generally speaking, require to be so thoroughly done, and they should be cooked, so that, in carving them, the gravy will just run, but not too freely. Of course in this, as in most other cases, the tastes of individuals vary; and there are many who cannot partake, with satisfaction, of any joint unless it is what others would call overdressed. Baking. — Meat baked in the oven has never the same delicious aromatic flavour as when roasted in front of the tire, but with care it is possible to have a baked joint with a good flavour and a wellbrowned and crisp surface. To preserve the flavour of the meat, it is absolutely necessary that every part of the oven should be kept scrupulously clean. Nothing can brown properly or become crisp in too moist an atmosphere; therefore there must be an outlet for the steam produced by the evaporation of some of the water in the meat; and if the construction of the oven does not provide sufficient ventilation, the door must be kept partly open to allow the steam to escape. To ensure perfectly satisfactory results, a proper baking-tin must be used. This consists of a double tin, the upper part being provided with a grid, on which the meat rests, thus preventing unnecessary contact with the dripping. The lower tin is filled with water, which prevents the fat in the upper tin burning, and giving off unpleasant odours to be absorbed by the meat, and which would spoil its flavour. The principles of roasting and baking are exactly the same, the object being in both processes to preserve the nutritive qualities of the meat by preventing the escape of the juices of the meat. Before putting the joint in the oven it should be well basted with hot fat, for the reason already explained in reference to roasting meat. The oven should be hot for the first 10 or 15 minutes, in order that the albumin on the surface of the meat may be quickly coagulated and the juices of the meat retained. The temperature must then be lowered, or the meat transferred to a cooler oven, if the stove is provided with two. The temperature of an oven may be quickly reduced by drawing away some of the fire, putting in the dampers, or leaving the oven door open. Frequent basting is as essential in baking as in roasting; it not only keeps the meat mellow and tender, it also prevents waste by shrinkage, and by washing off some of the hardened particles it prevents the meat becoming too brown, while at the same time it provides a deposit to be afterwards converted into good gravy. The time required for baking meat is the same as for roasting, viz., 15 minutes to each Ib. of beef and mutton, and 15 minutes over; and 20 minutes to each Ib. of pork and veal, and 20 minutes over, with the usual allowances for form, condition, stuffing, etc., which common sense or experience must determine.

Boiling. — Boiling is generally considered one of the most easy and

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GENERAL KKMAKKS CM COOKING MEAT 409 simple processes of cookery. Certainly meat cooked in a pot req<: •u-ntiMn. and too frequently r« one at all, as is • 1 by the ragged mutton and hard-ll.ivourless 1> ich •cnn HOI in, iv IT i <>nv« tlv lit when boiled than when roasted or baked, there is r of nntn:; ituents, unless both the meat and the liquor in which it i be consumed, for certain nr es, and a c« • quantity of gelatin, are abstracted duett of cooking, and remain dissolved in the When •d to be eaten, it is desirable thar tblc mitrif •uld be retained, and this is effected, as in roasting and it for a short tim< tly Iv coagulate the surface albumin, thus forming an unwhich prevents the escape of the internal ju and most effectually excludes the water, which, by dilutr • 's, would render the meat insipid. All ii imn mutes, but at the ire must be reduced, and the surest and qu<. this to to draw the pot aside and add cold until the water in the pot ceases to boil. One pint of cold Mild <• the contents of a large boiling pot. When i possible to choose, the one selected shoul must be kept co •ils away, in The a«' "f such rnip, cai is a decided impi « but they should never be used in sufficiently l.irge quantities to «• tural flavour. Turnip must bo al.ringly 0 >ssesses the peculiar property »•?

omes in contact v usefully that purpose. In one respect, boiling is more economic..;her roas- when once the right point is reached a very small will maintain the proper temperature. Any heat in excess of is wasted, and the benefit of slow progressive cooking is lo: lit inn, and * hardens the fibres of the n and renders i u' rneat is from 20 to 25 minut< lb <>f meat..: to the s< km<l of meat; pork requires longer boiling than beef or mutton, and salt han fresh meat.

Salt Meals.— Salt beef, salt pork, pickled pork, toni; hams s be put into warm wa cold wat ham- and tonmiei must U- -...ik-d 1:1 COM wmt« fol ftl 1- • ' 12 bt.• •

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before cooking. Any kind of salt meat intended to be served cold will be more mellow and juicy if allowed to remain in the liquor until cold; but this practice cannot be recommended in warm weather unless the meat will be quickly consumed, for the large amount of moisture it contains soon renders it unfit for use. Stewing. — This process of cooking may be defined as " simmering in a small quantity of liquid." Undoubtedly it is the most economical method of cooking meat, not only on account of the small amount of fuel required to keep up the gentle simmering, but also because tough, coarse, inexpensive kinds of meat may, by this long, slow continuous process, be rendered tender and palatable. There is practically no loss of nutritive constituents, for everything abstracted f -om the meat is contained in the gravy. The fibres of coarse meat should never be exposed to a higher temperature than 160° F.; simmering point is 180° F., boiling point, 212° F. To cook meat at this comparatively low temperature it is absolutely necessary that the vessel containing it should be provided with a lid fitting so closely that the steam cannot escape; or failing this, 2 or 3 thicknesses of greased paper must be placed under the lid. Lean meat alone is suitable for stewing, more particularly when the liquid is thickened with flour, which prevents the fat rising to the surface of the liquid. In consequence of not being able to remove the fat by skimming, stews are apt to disagree with those who are in the least inclined to dyspepsia; but when made of lean meat they are easily digested. A few rough trimmings of vegetables should be added to flavour the stew; but it is better to cook the vegetables to be served with it separately, for the low temperature at which the meat stews destroys the colour of both carrots and turnips. When the meat is very coarse its fibres may be softened either by adding a little vinegar to the stew, or by pouring a little over the meat and allowing it to soak in it for at least an hour before cooking. But when the meat is tender if it is quickly fried on both sides before it is stewed, it has both a better appearance and flavour.

No definite rule as to time can be given; stews may be allowed to cook gently from 4 to 5 hours, but longer cooking usually reduces the fibres of beef and mutton to a stringy, thread-like mass, so hardened that they cannot be digested, and consequently afford no nourishment. Stews cannot cook too slowly; it is not necessary that there should be the least ebullition, but there must be sufficient heat applied to evaporate the liquid and fill the vessel with steam, otherwise the meat is not Braising. — This excellent method of cooking is a combination of roasting and stewing, for when a properly constructed pan is used heat is applied from above by means of a depressed lid on which charcoal is burnt. When meat is braised in an ordinary stewpan it is simply placed on a foundation of vegetables surrounded, but not

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GENERAL REMARKS ON COOKING MEAT 411 covered, with stock. The meat does not come in contact with the liquid, but becomes thoroughly flavoured with the vegetables, and by long slow cooking in the steam is rendered tender and digestible, it is then placed in a quick oven and browned and crisped before Frying. — From the appended table it will be seen that all fats and oils do not boil at the same temperature. In ordinary houses thermometers for testing the heat for cooking are not available, but the table given is instructive without their aid — at least it should make he reason why it is so much more difficult to fry in a small quantity of butter than in a corresponding amount of fat o. BOILING POINT OF FAT AND OILS Butter boils at 150* F.

Lard „ 210° „ Clarified Fat, „ 250° „ Oil 390-400° „ y liquids boil at a lower temperature than water (212°); thus you may, with impunity, dip your finger in boiling spirits of you would take it very quickly from boiling brandy; still more rapidly from water; whilst the effect of the most rapid immersion in boiling oil need not be mentioned. As a consequence of this, heated fluids act differently on the savoury bodies presented to them. A small ball of butter, thickly coated with egg and breadcrumbs, maybe fried r fat or oil and retain its form, but if dropped into a stewpan of boiling it would quickly melt, and mingle with it, because t would not be hot enough to immediately coagulate the albumin of the egg and thus imprison the butter, and effectually exclude the water. Fat l>e heated to a much higher temperature than is necessary for ry frying purposes. Anyone experienced can tell exactly by the appearance of the fat, and by the amount of blue smoke arising from ••n the requisite degree of heat is reached. This, of course, varies Mich things as rissoles and fish cakes, made principally of cooked materials, need simply browning and heating through, and conse- nay be cooked in very hot fat. But such a prepa as cheese fritters or raw substances like fillets of fish must be fried in lower temperature to allow the material to be fully cooked before I becomes too brown. The heat of the fat may be tested by frying a piece of bread; if it turns brown immediately the temperature is suitable for such things as need browning and ••, and for potatoes which require a high degree of heat, owing to the large pro•ntaincd in them; but for raw materials the ic bread at once hardens, and acquires a pale golden- brown colour. It should, however, be remembered that the intmd'.K -non of any cold substance immediately lowers the tempo; iutes the heat i.

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pan may safely be increased. Only a small quantity of anything should be fried at one time, and the fat must be heated to a proper temperature before frying a second lot. There are two distinct methods of frying, known respectively as deep or wet frying, and dry frying. Deep Frying. — In this process the materials fried must be completely covered by hot fat. An iron or steel stewpan or saucepan may be used; and for such things as rissoles, croquettes, lobster cutlets, fish cakes, etc., a wire basket or wire drainer is necessary; fillets of fish are generally dropped into the hot fat from the fingers, and taken out on a fish slice. Everything fried should be transferred from the fat to a sheet of clean paper and thoroughly drained before serving. Dry Frying. — Meat fried in a shallow pan with a comparatively small quantity of fat may be rendered hard and indigestible by this process if the mistake be made of putting the meat into a cold frying-pan, or into the fat before it is hot enough to coagulate the albumin on its surface. Fillets of beef and veal, and mutton and veal cutlets are generally cooked in this manner, and with a protective covering of egg and breadcrumbs they may be subjected to intense heat without hardening their fibres to an injurious extent. The side to be dished upwards should be fried first, because the side cooked first invariably presents a better appearance. The frying should be done rapidly, and the frying-pan frequently shaken to prevent the contents sticking and burning to the bottom of it.

Frying-Fat. — For all ordinary purposes clarified fat may be recommended. It is made from beef and mutton suet, cut into small pieces, and simmered in a little water until all the fat is extracted, and then strained. 2 Ib. of fat are obtained from 3 Ib. of suet; unless the suet can be bought cheaply, it may be a little more expensive than lard. Oil is excellent for frying purposes, but it requires more careful handling than the fats, for unless heated gently over a slow fire, it has a tendency to rise quickly and boil over. Lard sometimes imparts an unpleasant flavour, but the chief objection to its use is the fatty odour which lingers long after the lard has cooled. Frying-fat after being used should, WHEN COOL, be strained. The fat may be used over and over again until it becomes discoloured, and discoloration may in some measure be prevented by occasionally boiling the fat in plenty of water for £ an hour. When slightly cool, both fat and water should be poured into a basin; and as soon as the cake of fat is firm all the impurities should be scraped off the bottom, and the fat melted again to evaporate every particle of water.

Grilling. — Grilling, or broiling, as it is sometimes termed, is the most perfect way of cooking chops and steaks. A sharp clear fire is necessary in order that the outside may be quickly hardened, and thus prevent the escape of the juices of the meat. Grilling may be done either over the fire or before it on a gridiron contrived for the purpose. Any ordinary gridiron may be used for cooking over the fire; before being

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r.KNKRAL REMARKS OX COOKING MKAT used it should be heated, and its bars well riiblx?d with paper, and afterwards with a little fat or suet. Whatever is being grilled must be repeatedly turned, by means of steak-tongs, or, failing these, a fork put into the fat of the meat, for if the lean be pierced the juio • through the holes thus mado. This cooking process is suited only to small portions of meat, or kidneys, bones, lisa, mushrooms, tomatoes, etc.

SUMMARY OF GENERAL RULES (1) One general rule is that meat should never be washed, but there.1 three s to the rule. viz.: — (a) \ coal to remo\ m of putr (b) When meat has been over-sal ted, and it is necessary the of salt.

(c) 1 <1 liver before they are cut into slices: the both being prote iMtold\\ does not deprive them of their nutriti\ (2) In ro,' an intense heat must U> applied to all f«>r 10 or 15 minutes, and the tern]: wards considerably redu« (3) In boiling, fresh meat should be put into boiling water, boiled and then cold liquid added to rling water hardens the meat, rm waterplaced in r, which will extract some of t also a •I the m.

(4) 1 rocess must be Ion '."ie-litting lid, ft].ntervenn of greas' (5) In t: fat Ivfoi ven things which require a conr 1<>\\ tei 1 things to be fried must be added to the iat gradually, to mperattire too suddenly. The fat i ire before pir a second

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ON QUADRUPEDS CHAPTER XIV General Notes on Mammalia and the different breeds of Cattle and their characteristics, observations on veal and beef, and tables of prices and weights of joints, etc.

The Empire of Nature has been, by general assent, divided into three great divisions or kingdoms: the first consisting of minerals, the second of vegetables, and the third of animals. The Mineral Kingdom comprises all inorganic objects devoid of life, but having a definite chemical composition, consisting of either a single element, as silver, or of two or three of these elements combined, as sodium chloride or common salt. When not mixed with any other substances, minerals are composed of similar particles, and if they possess a definite shape, are characterized by the geometric form their crystals assume, although all minerals are not distinctly crystalline. Minerals enter into the composition of the rocks, which constitute the solid portion of our globe, and guard the land against the encroachments of the sea. The Vegetable Kingdom covers and beautifies the earth with an endless variety of form and colour. It consists, with some exceptions, of organic bodies which grow by the assimilation of inorganic substances, as water, carbonic acid, and ammonia, forming out of these organic complex substances, as sugar, starch, cellulose, etc. In the process of digestion plants break up carbonic acid into its two elements of oxygen and carbon, setting free the former which is required for the sustenance of animal life, and retaining the carbon necessary for vegetable life. The higher orders of plants are chiefly nourished by means of roots, breathe by the medium of leaves, and are propagated by seeds.

The Animal Kingdom in its lower types is closely allied to the Vegetable Kingdom, both of these constituting the organic series of natural objects. The bodies of each are composed of protoplasm, the basis of all life, a substance formed of carbon, hydrogen, nitrogen and oxygen. The nature and method of assimilating their food is the only means by which the distinction between plants and animals in their lowest forms car. be clearly determined: the former subsisting on inorganic, and the latter on organic, matter. In the case of the higher animals and plants, it is easy to assign any individual to its proper place in Nature, but it is almost impossible

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to fix the precise limits of the types which connect the two great Kingdoms together, and to determine where vegetable life ends and animal Hie begins. In respect of form, internal structure, power of motion, they closely resemble each other as in the case of the DIATOMACEAE and DESMIDIAE, two of the lower order of miscroscopic plants, and the sea-anemones, sea-mats, sponges, corals, etc. Like the Vegetable lorn, animals are limited to certain areas by the conditions of climate and soil, the environment of an animal determining its dement and survival. There are various systems of classification of animals. Linnaeus divided them into six great classes: Mammalia, phibious Animals, Insects and Worms. Cuvicrs' scientific arrangement comprised the four sub- Kingdoms, Vcrtebrata, Mollusca, Articulata, and Radiata. The classifications of more recent times have been largely determined by the consideration of the forms of animals as influenced by evolution, and the facts of heredity and adaptation to their environment. The late Professor Huxley 1 the Animal Kingdom into the sub-Kingdoms, Vcrtcbrata, Annuloda, Annuloida, Coelenterata, Infusoria, and Protozoa. MAMMALIA animals comprises all the ordinary quadrupeds incltui ->e vertebrate animals in which some part or other of the skin, during some portion of life, is pr<;h hair, and whose young •or a longer or shorter period by means of a special fluidmilk. i iy special glands. The mammalia have warm blood, Le., blood the normal temperature of which is usually retained in ^ the mammalia arc classed the whales, dolphins and porpoises, whose bodies are particularly adapted for aquat: like the rest of the class, nourish their young by their milk. The heart of mammals is similar to that of birds, and has four distinct chambers, iricles and two ventricles, and respiration is carried on by means o lungs situated in the chest ca\ The following are the general characteristics of the Mammalia, -iced above, the bodies of nearly the whole class are covered with hair — a kind of clothing which is both soft and warm, little liable to injury, and bestowed in proportion to the necessities of the animal,.mate of the country it inhabits, and the nature of its environIn all the higher orders of animals, the head is the principal f the organs of sense. In it are placed the eyes, the cai nose, and the mouth. Through the last they re;r nourishment. OS the teeth, which, in most of the mammalia, arc used not only for the mastication of food, but also as weapons of inserted into two movable jaws, and ncisors are so placed that their sharp edges may easily be brought in contact with the food, in order that its fibres may

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readily be separated. Next to these, on each side, are situated the canine teeth or tusks, which are longer than the other teeth, and being pointed are specially adapted ior tearing food. In the back of the jaws are placed another form of teeth, called molars, or grinders. Their use is to masticate the food; in animals that live on vegetables the molars are flattened at the top; but in the carnivora, their upper surfaces are furnished with sharp-pointed protuberances. The numbers, form, and disposition of the teeth constitute most important characteristics for separating the various orders of the mammalia from one another. The nose is a cartilaginous body, pierced with two holes, which are called nostrils. Through these the animal is affected by the sense of smell; in some animals this organ is prominent, whilst in others it is flat, compressed, turned upwards, or bent downwards. In beasts of prey the nose is frequently longer than the lips; and in some other animals, as the elephant, it is elongated into a movable trunk or proboscis, whilst in the rhinoceros it is armed with a horn. The eyes of quadrupeds are generally defended by movable lids, on the outer margins of which are fringes of hair called eyelashes. The opening of the pupil is in general circular; but in some species, as in those of the cat and hare, it is contracted into a perpendicular line; in the horse, the ox, and a few others, it forms a transverse bar. The ears are openings, generally accompanied with a cartilage which defends and covers them, called the external ear. In aquatic animals the latter are wanting, sound being transmitted merely through orifices in the head, which have the name of auditory holes. The most defenceless animals are extremely delicate in the sense of hearing, as are also most beasts of prey. Most of the mammiferous animals walk on their toes, which at the extremities are usually divided into five digits. In some, however, the feet end in a single corneous substance, called a hoof. The toes of a few of the mammalia end in broad flat nails, and of most others in pointed claws. Those that are destined to pass a considerable portion of their lives in water have the toes connected by a membrane. Others again, as in the bat, have the digitations of the anterior feet greatly elongated, the intervening space being filled by a membrane, which extends round the hinder legs and tail, by means of which they are enabled to rise into the air. In man, the hand comprises fingers separate free and flexible; but apes and some other kinds of animals, have fingers both to the hands and feet. These, therefore, are the only animals that can hold moveable objects in a single hand. Others, such as rats and squirrels, have the fingers sufficiently small and flexible to enable them to pick up objects, but they are compelled to hold them in both hands. Others, again, have the toes shorter, and must rest on the hind-feet, as is the case with dogs and cats when they want to hold a substance firmly on the ground with their paws. There are still others that have their toes united and drawn under the skin

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or enveloped in corneous hoofs, and thereby cannot exercise any preA-cr.

According to the Design and End of Nature, muinmiferous animals are '.en arrivt-d at maturity, to subsist on various kinds oi food — some to live wholly upon flesh, others upon grain, herbs or fruits; but in tlu-ir infant state, milk constitutes the natural food of the whole. That this food may never fail them, it is ordained that the young should no sooner come into the world than the milk should flow mlancc into the organs with which the mother is supplied for the on of th.it nutritious fluid. By a wonderful instinct of Nature, mimal, almost as soon as it has come into life, se >w, by the process of suet ion, try to its existence. To man 1 him of them unite with him in sharing the d t with an enemy, and:rom the ham; o injurious to him; but the greater number, in son or other, he turns none more subservient to his purposes ommon ox, for there is scarcely a part of th: to convert to some useful purpose. < inking \ them i of the i of hid The th.

are manufactured into vellum. Their blood is made sort of thread j)ieTheir hair is valuabl "us manu, fat and tallow arc moulded into candles; while l.ir tissues of the carcass constitute beef, and the milk and of the cow yield butter and cheese. Thus ry part of '. valuable to man, who ha- it to >t state of pet GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON CATTLE.

lc, hk< sh< ep, belong to 1 -\ and t< n tire order is classed •'ic horn. ides horn I by himself. !

mong the BOVIDAE or oxen.

: — • p

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1. The Bisons. 5. The Gour (Indian bison).

2. The Yaks. 6. The Gayal (Indian cow).

3. The Buffaloes. 7 The Zebus (humped cattle of India). 4. Musk oxen. 8. The European races of cattle.

There are some other oxen, but the eight species above named show the relative position of cattle in the Animal Kingdom and towards other species.

There are 19 distinct breeds or races of cattle in the British Isles, and Moll and Gayot have figured no fewer than 55 races of European cattle in their admirable work, La Connaissance General du Bceuf. Britain has been famous for cattle from remote times (Bede's Ecclesiastical History), and not only so, but the soil and climate have proved exceptionally favourable for their proper development. British cattle stand pre-eminent in the world at the present time for beauty of form, aptitude to fatten, earliness of maturity, and milking properties. All our races do not possess these aptitudes in the same degree, but they are represented in all. Our cattle are usually classified as milking and dairy breeds, and beef producers, although both classes yield milk and beef. In Europe a third class is usually recognized, distinguished as draught cattle, but horses have almost entirely superseded working oxen in Great Britain.

The beef producing races of cattle include Shorthorns, Herefords, Devons, Sussex, Galloways, Aberdeen-Angus, West Highlanders and Pembrokes.

The principal dairy breeds are Jerseys, Guernseys, Shorthorns, Ayrshires, Norfolk Polls, Kerrys and Dexters. Shorthorns may be included in both sections, and in some other races the distinction must be regarded as rather arbitrary.

Shorthorn Cattle deserve special notice, as combining both milking and feeding properties in a special degree. It is true that many of the highest bred Shorthorns are poor milkers, but the Lincoln Red strain is celebrated for milk, and some herds have been bred for milk, and yet retain their fattening properties. What are known as unpedigreed Shorthorns are perhaps the most generally distributed class of cattle in most dairy districts. The Shorthorn is probably of Dutch origin, but far back in the eighteenth century pure-bred herds with recorded pedigrees were carefully cherished in Northumberland, Durham and Yorkshire. The Dukes of Northumberland, the Blacketts of Matfen, the Milbanks, St. Quintins and Pennymans of Durham, and the Aislabie's of Studley Royal, a very ancient family, all possessed pure-bred Shorthorns before the days of Robert and Charles Colling, the Booths, T. Bates and other accredited promoters of the breed. The enthusiasm of the earlier breeders knew no bounds, and they have been succeeded by a host of great breeders in all parts of the kingdom. There have been many voluminous histories written of Shorthorns, but it is impossible to enter upon particulars here.

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The Shorthorn is of large size and beautifully proportioned. The colour may be all white, all red, red and white, or roan, and the hair is abundant, mossy and licked in various directions. Hair or coat is an important feature. The horns are of wax-like tint, and the nose is cream-coloured and free from black. The bulls are distinguished by " grandeur " in carriage and crest, and the cows are docile 1 sweet-looking. The beef is red and juicy, but the carcass is liable to be overloaded with fat, and for this reason Shorthorn beef is some- considered inferior to that of other breeds.

Hereford Cattle are easily known by their red colour relieved by white on the face, feet, breast, withers and tail. They are poor milkers but quick fattciu is. and the beef is of marbled character and of the t quality. They originated in Herefordshire and Herts, but are wuK Iv and are in high estimation among the graziers of East Anglia. A cross of Hereford and Shorthorn prodt milkers.

Devon Cattle are found in greatest perfection in North Devon on the red land. They are of smaller size than either of the last described and are of blood-red colour: are poor milkers, but good for (1 the oxen are first-rate for draught purposes. Sussex Cattle resemble Dcvons, t> i^er in frame, of a swai iturcs. They lack the bright orange tint seen around the eyes, inside the ears, and around the muzzles of Devon •reed is one of our best beef producers, and is i its own con Galloway Cattle. These inhabit the south-western peninsula of Scotland which includes the counties of Dumfries, Wigton and Kirkcubright, and stretches far south of t! h border. They ! out of doors winter and summer, and the cows bring forth their calves lie open and suckle them on the hills. They are black in colour, >ugh occasionally red or brown, and are long and c 'in ad stand on short legs. They are of medium size, are polled or;x>sed of to gl hem on the la of England. Their glossy black colour, deep i case:ters and polled character are amply distinct of the b; s of superior quali Aberdeen Angus Cattle occur principally in the peninsula which juts main trend of the coastline to the north-east, forming rness and Angus. The breed in many ays, as it is black and polled, i ther looser build, and thinner hide ! v a beef producing breed, I for mil vs a feature in the Smithton.

The West- Highland Cattle harmoni/e with tl.s do the r.-d drcr an.J the nati\.

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These denizens of the mountains might well seem to be a natural product of the land of mist and flood. Their gleaming horns, shaggy coats, stalwart frames and sombre hues seem like an embodiment of the " Spirit of the Highlands." They found an early improver in Mr. McNeil, a proprietor in the Hebrides, and from thence they spread over the Western and Central Highlands. Their symmetry is perfect and their size moderate. Their horns are upright or spreading, and their coats are long and capable of resisting any amount of rain, snow or sleet. Their colours are black, brown, silvery grey, fawn or brindled. For scenic effect they are unsurpassed, and when deported from their native homes they are as decorative as deer, in Windsor Great Park and other demesnes. The West-Highlanders are quick fatteners, and yield beef of first-rate quality. At cattle shows, they always attract an admiring crowd, who gaze upon them at a respectful distance. The free life of West-Highland cattle favours the natural suckling of the calves, and they are never enumerated among the dairy breeds.

The Pembroke Cattle of Wales are black, with black tipped white horns. They are considered to be closely related to the Park Cattle of Chillingham and the native red cattle of Devon. They are an indigenous breed, and probably are descended from the ancient British cattle. They are therefore looked upon as the descendants of Bos Primigenius in contradistinction to Bos longifrous, the extinct wild prototype of Highland cattle. The best type of Pembroke Cattle are called CastleMartins.

DAIRY BREEDS.

Jersey Cattle properly head the list of dairy cattle. They occur as the native breed of Jersey, and no bull is allowed to land upon the island that is not of pure blood. These cattle are of fawn or smoke colour, beautifully shaded on the ribs and haunches. The horns are short and curved towards each other, and are black in colour. The face is deer-like and free from flesh, and the carcass is light in front and heavy behind. They are free milkers, and the milk is of rich colour and extremely rich in cream. It is the butter-making breed par excellence, and the beautiful rich yellow colour of the butter confers upon it a special value. A Jersey cow converts her food into rich milk and is a slow fattener. This is a drawback to the male portions of the herd, which are slow to fatten, and not very saleable except in the case of the best bulls. The deer-like beauty, small size and docility of the cows render them general favourites, and they are largely kept in suburban districts by villa residents. As ordinary farming stock they are not general, as the yield of milk and butter is not so great as in some other breeds, and does not always command a price commensurate with its quality.

Guernsey Cattle possess similar properties to the Jerseys, but may

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XKRAI. OBSERVATIONS ON QUADRUPEDS 421 'lily distinguished by their yellow and white markings and someampler proportions.

Ayrshire Cattle appear to be the result of Shorthorn crosses upon the races which were formerly called Dunlop Ca:<!<•. They are of is colouring, some being almost black, others of Channel Island while some are brown and white, or yellow and white. Tho horns are upright and fairly long. The form is described as " v. hich is meant that from every point of view they are. in front and wide behind. Thus the nan into v. !e loins contract into narrou Tin v from withers t •i at the flanks ai.us in tin- Si null ( h.-.Mai The Norfolk Follies purposes, and arc alao good descended \\ in Galloway cows imj Suffolk Dun. which had a similar Kerries and Dexters may be taken as both arc improved varieties ot ire small in size, and are: s with those who keep tuo or three pet cows for domestic uses. The Dexter wa cd by •s^-il K • >nh<irn bull '•reed be*. more easily than QUALITY OF BEEF.

ity of beef depends partly upon race, but also upon,-. The best beef is that of steers or ties of: beef is probably equally good, but cow beef r, as is also t Grass fed beef is i»r to that (:

best bet- 1 >d. uith 1 with the •i) the fore-qu and " crops " of bt n the best sold by contract to si. i mj>s. the buttocks kl rolled and used for " corned beef.".lar with r.n^h^hincn. and i horsc< radish as i • mdinf i»N. \\}\\-: \\ith mm

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VEAL As the calf, at least as far as it is identified with veal, is destined to die young — to be killed in comparative infancy — it may, at first sight, appear of little or no consequence to inquire to what particular variety or breed of the general stock his sire or dam may belong. The great art, however, in the modern science of stock-breeding has been to obtain an animal that shall not only have the utmost beauty of form of which the species is capable, but, at the same time, possess a constitution free from all taint, a frame that shall rapidly attain bulk and stature, and a disposition so kindly that every quantum of food it takes shall speedily, and to the fullest degree, be assimilated and converted into flesh. The breed, then, is of considerable consequence in determining, not only the quality of the meat to the consumer, but its commercial value to the breeder and butcher.

Under the System now adopted in the rearing of domestic cattle and stock in general, to gratify the arbitrary demands of luxury and fashion, we can have veal, like lamb, in the market at all seasons, but English veal is considered to be in season from February to September. The Cow goes with Young for Nine Months, and the affection and solicitude she evinces for her offspring is more human in its tenderness and intensity than is displayed by any other animal; and her distress when she hears it lowing, and is not allowed to reach it with her distended udders, is often painful to witness; and when the calf has died, or been accidentally killed, her grief frequently makes her refuse to give down her milk. In a state of nature the cow, like the deer, hides her young in the tall ferns and brakes, and the most secret places; and only at stated times, twice or thrice a day, quits the herd, and, hastening to the secret cover, gives suck to her calf, and with the same circumspection returns to the community.

The Weaning of Calves is a process that requires a great amount of care and judgment, for though calves are in reality not weaned till between the eighth and the twelfth week, the process of rearing them by hand commences in fact from the birth, the calf never being allowed to suck its dam. As the rearing of calves for the market is a very important and lucrative business, the breeder generally arranges his stock so that ten or a dozen of his cows shall calve about the same time; and then, by setting aside a few, to find food for the entire family, gets the remainder of the herd with their full fountains of milk to carry on the operations of his dairy. Some people have an idea that skimmed milk, if given in sufficient quantity, is good enough for the weaning period of calf-feeding; but this is a very serious mistake, for the cream, of which it has been deprived, contains nearly all the oleaginous principles, and it is found that a calf reared on one part of new milk mixed with five of water, will thrive and look well, while another treated with unlimited skim milk, will be poor, thin, and miserable.

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It is sometimes a matter of considerable trouble to induce the calf — instinct only teaches him to suck, which he will do at anything and with anything — to acquire the knowledge of imbibition, and for the first few days it is often necessary to fill a bottle with milk, and, opening his mouth, pour the contents down his throat. The manner, < r, by which he is finally educated into the mystery of suction, is by putting his allowance of milk into a large wooden bowl; the nurse then puts her hand into the milk, and, by bending her fingers upwards, makes a teat for the calf to grasp in his lips, when the vacuum created by the suction of the fingers causes the milk to rise along them into his mouth. In this manner, one by one, the whole family are fed three times a day, care being taken that new-born calves are not st fed on milk from a cow who has calved some days. As the Calf Progresses towards his Tenth Week, his diet requires to be increased in quantity and quality; for these objects his milk can K> ned with flour or meal, and small pieces of softened oil-cake are I into his mouth after sucking, in order that he may grow fa with its taste, when it may be softened and scraped down into his milk-and-water. After a time, sliced turnips softened by stca; given to him in tolerable quantities; then succulent grasses, and finally, hay may be added to the other food. Some farmers, desirous of r< ing their calves fat for the butcher in as short a time as possible, forget both the natural weakness of the digestive organs and the li: capacity of the stomach, and allow the animals either to suck ad • >:, or give them, if brought up by the pail or by hand, a larger quantity of milk than they can digest. The idea of overloadng stomach never suggests itself to their minds. They suppose that the more food the young creature consumes, the sooner it will be fat, and they allow it no exercise whatever, for fear it should denude it bones of their flesh. Under such circumstances the stomach frequently becomes deranged; its functions are no longer performed; the milk, subjected to the acid of the stomach, coagulates, and forms a icd mass of curd, when the muscles become affected with spasms, and death frequently ensues.

Veal. — Veal is, by many, considered both unwholesome and inible. The practice, now illegal, of bleeding calves before killing them, until they were actually in a state of disease, had probably some effect in producing a general belief in the unwholcson of the immature animal is less easily digested res offer greater resistance to the digestive agents. When its fibr -luccd to a fine state of division by the various scs of mastication, mincing, pounding and sieving, veal is easily t, it contains less nourishment than beef, in consequence of having in its composition a higher percentage of water, (78 in 100 parts as compared with 72 per cent, in beef), and a corresponding decrease in the proportion of proteids and fats,

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To Choose Veal. — The whiteness oi veal is considered a sign of good quality, and animals were bled to make their flesh white. On the Continent calves are killed much younger than is customary in this country, and they are fed on milk and white food, but no feeding will make every calf equally white fleshed. As immature meat keeps badly at all times, it is of importance that the calf should not be bruised in bringing it to market. The fat should be plentiful and very white, especially that surrounding the kidney, which in all animals affords a good indication of quality.

Very young veal is constantly brought to table on the Continent, but no calf may be killed for food less than 14 days old, whereas in England they may be sold when 3 days old. The flesh is in the higher state of perfection when the calf is 8 or 9 weeks old; after 12 weeks it becomes coarse in texture.

Veal is most plentiful from February to the end of July. The Several Parts of a Moderate-sized, Well-fed Calf, about 8 weeks old are approximately of the following weights: Loin and chump, 18 Ib.; fillet, 12^ Ib.; hind knuckle, 5^ Ib.; shoulder, n Ib.; neck, n Ib.; breast, 9 Ib.; and fore-knuckle, 5 Ib., making a total of 144 Ib. weight. The London mode of cutting the carcass is considered to be the standard. It gives three roasting joints and one boiling joint in each quarter; the pieces are also more equally divided, as regards flesh, and have a better appearance.

The Manner of Cutting up Veal for the English market is to divide the carcass into four quarters, with eleven ribs to each fore-quarter; these are again sub-divided into joints, as exemplified in the accompanying illustration.

They are used in the following way:

HlND-QUARTER.

(1) Loin. — Prime roasting joint, also for chops. (2) Chump end of Loin. — Roasted.

(3) Fillet. — The choicest and least bony roasting joint, also suitable for braising for a small party. Cutlets are sometimes taken from this part.

(4) Hind Knuckle. — Low-priced. Fit for boiling or stewing, or for FORE-QUARTER.

(5) Fore Knuckle. — Best stewed or boiled. In the young animal all joints are tender, and can be roasted. When the sinews and tendons have become stiff and hard with age, certain joints are nearly uneatable, except when cooked at a low temperature with moisture. (6) Best end of the Neck. — For small roasting joint or for chops. Too large a proportion of bone to be economical. The other end of the neck is more suitable for stewing.

(7 and 8) Oyster or Bladebone. — Often sold in halves for roasting.

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(9) Breast. — Low in price. Sometimes roasted; better braised or \\\i\ tendons, served as an entree, are cut from this joint. (10) Head. — Eaten hot or cold in a variety of ways. C. lives' brains •d as an cnu Besides these joints, the following parts of the Calf are sold for food: — (12) Sweetbread. — A delicacy, sold at fancy prices. Cooked in a v of ways, generally served as an entree. It is described as heart:>read and throat sweetbread, the latter being the thymus L (J3) Liver. — Often used for frying. As it is very lean, it is usually cooked with some of the inside fat or crow, or with bacon. (14) Feet. — These are sold by tripe-dressers and butchers, and for jelly-making, in the place of prepared gelatine. Thc\ also be stewed and fried. " Ncats' foot " is a common article of food with the poor.

(15) Heart. — Can be bought separately, or with the pluck or fry. by many persons; makes an economical dish. ist or.md is ! -'.j.in bullock's he-art.

(16) Suet — V- 1 with the loin, is more delicate for all <>s than IxH-f, and may with advantage be substituted for it in puddings, forcemeat, etc, (17) Kidney. — This is much more delicate than, and is pr< beef kidney. It is sold with the loin; if sold separately an c According to the calculation in the following table we find that is. will buy i Ib. and 6 oz. of breast <., or 13025. of veal cutlet at is. 2i\. In the cheaper joint then ctcd an average oi 6 ozs. of bone tly i Ib. of solid meat. In the cutlets be no bone, but there will probably l>e 2 < 10 ozs, The juice of the cut let is not unusual, though Mseeth.r: ice \ve have «juoted, th more M certainly not be so were the of both joints the sa:

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TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS PARTS OF GIVING THE ACTUAL COST OF THE EATABLE PORTION OF THE VARIOUS JOINTS, AFTER DEDUCTING LOSS IN WEIGHT FROM WASTE, BONE, AND DIFFERENT MODES OF COOKING. Great care has been taken in the preparation of these tables, all the joints having been carefully tested. The result shows that no joint can be reckoned to cost less than is. per Ib. Veal is not, however, such an extravagant meat as it is generally considered to be, the waste in cooking, as may be seen by the second table, not being excessive. How usually before when loss Cost per Ib. after cooking, bone oz s. d.

s. d.

5 o 5} Fillet -. -... 7 o Head 0 f)\ I O o 8 o 8i Knuckle (of shoulder or leg).. t* o 6 Leg (in cutlets).. I 6J 2j Liver,-•,.o 15 J io* Loin • «•'. • • i * 7 o 7} o 9 Neck Best end. 2 6} o 9 Shoulder (part) 9 o o 9 Sweetbread I 6-J o 8 TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN AND WASTE IN JOINTS OF VEAL. joint when Loss of weight by eatable matter.

o 4 Fillet... o 8 7 o Head 3 ^ Knuckle 0 11$ 3 2$ 2 12$ Leg (in cutlets) o 3l o 5$ 7 o o o

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHOICE OF MEAT Choosing Meat. — Every housekeeper ought to know how to choose a good piece of meat in the butcher's shop, and how to detect a bad piece sent to her kitchen. It is almost needless to say that the first necessity is that the meat should be wholesome, It may be unwholesome from a variety of causes.

Parasites. — It may be infested with parasites, and this condition is known to be without doubt most injurious to the consumer. We shall have to speak again of " measly pork " in another chapter, and of the parasite known as " TRICHINA SPIRALIS," that also frequently infests the pig. The chief, indeed, the only safeguard against this danger lies in the thorough cooking of the meat, every part of which should be raised to the temperature of boiling water, 2 1 2 Fahr. This applies particularly to all the visceral organs, where these are eaten, for in these parts of the animal that parasites are most often found. Putrefaction. — Even if the animal be killed in a healthy condition, the meat may become unwholesome by putrefaction. Habit has much to do in accommodating mankind to various kinds of foods. Some American Indians prefer putrid meat, and they bury salmon for some months in order to bring it to what they consider a state of perfection. Until recently Englishmen preferred game in a half-putrid condition, but now the taste for it is rapidly disappearing. To Choose Good Meat it is necessary to see that it possesses the following qualifications: — 1 i ) It should have a marbled appearance, from the ramifications of lit tic veins of fat among the muscles; this is specially characteristic of t may be wholesome, yet not fat, as we shall explain later, but kly animal never fatt< (2) It should be firm and elastic to the touch, and should scarcely n the fingers, bad meat bcin^; wet, sodden and flabby, with the fat looking like wet jelly or parchment.

(3) It should be neither of a pale pink colour nor a deep purple tint; the former is a sign of disease, the latter indicates that the animal has not been slaughtered, but has died with the blood in it, or has suffered from acute fever. In this case the inside fat surrounding the kidneys and the liver is often suffused with blood, showing plainly that there has been inflammation of those organs.

(4) It should have little or no odour, and the odour should not be veable, for diseased meat has a sickly, cadaverous smell, and sometimes a smell of physic. This is easily discovered when the meat is cut up finely and put into warm water.

(5) It should not shrink or waste much in cooking, though this departly on the mode of cooking, as, for instance, roast meat.in baked, and some joints more than others. Badly

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fed meat, such as pork fed on nuts and offal instead of meal, wastes much in cooking, (6) It should not run to water or become very wet on standing for a day or two but should on the contrary be dry upon the surface. Meat however that has been frozen is always damp on the surface, although the quality may be excellent.

Inferior Meat. — Meat may be quite wholesome and yet may be of inferior quality. Ordinary purchasers do not understand this in theory, though they are accustomed to it in practice. An ox that had worked at the plough would be hard and somewhat strong-flavoured; but suitably cooked it would be unobjectionable from a hygienic point of view. Cow-beef is habitually sold in the markets and the poor gladly buy it at a low price. Even in the best quarters of the town, superior meat hangs side by side with the second quality. Not enough comes to town of the best short-horned beef, or of Southdown mutton, to supply one-tenth of the customers, and in all market-lists the prices at per stone vary according to the breed and the quality. It answers the grazier's purpose to take a lower price per stone for an animal that arrives quickly at maturity, and attains to the greatest weight on a given amount of food. As a rule, the larger the animal, the coarser the flesh. This is markedly true of different varieties of the same species. In providing for a large number of persons, where quantity and cheapness are of more importance than first-rate quality, joints of large, full-flavoured beef and mutton are by far the most advantageous to buy, and for strong soup, stews with vegetables, and such dishes, there is no reason for choosing the most delicate meat. Fat Meat. — As regards fat, that can be bought more cheaply than on a joint of meat, and many persons object to eat much fat. But it is always risky to buy any part of an unusually lean animal, in case its condition should be due to disease. It is better to buy a lean joint off a fat beast, or to cut off the fat before cooking the meat, as it can be clarified and used for deep frying, plain cakes, pastry, etc. Again, if economy is an object, it is well to buy a cheap part of a first-rate animal rather than a prime joint off an inferior beast. The forequarter costs less than the hind; and in a bullock it is easy to get a solid lump of meat from the fore-quarter with little or no bone; of course, if a joint is cheap because it is bony, there is no economy in buying it.

A Few Observations on the Nutritive Value of Salted Meat may be properly introduced in this place. Every housewife knows that dry salt in contact with fresh meat gradually becomes fluid brine. The application of salt causes the fibres of meat to contract, and the juice to flow out from its pores; as much as one-third of the juice of the meat is often forced out in this manner. As this juice is pure extract of meat, containing albumin, osmasome, and other valuable principles it follows that meat, which has been preserved by the action of salt, cannot have the nutritive properties of fresh meat.

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M:RAL OBSERVATIONS ox < u ADRUPEDS GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BEEF Buying Beef. — Beef should not be eaten if it is in the least high. In dry weather it will keep some days; but it very soon spoils in damp i-r, even if the thermometer is low. At such times joints of meat may often be bought very cheaply, especially in the large markets on Saturday nights. The meat may be quite good at the time it is sold, but it would not be in twenty-four or thirty-six hours. And thrifty housekeepers, having more time than money at disposal, in this way do their marketing to great advantage. It is not wise at such times — perhaps not at any time when economy is studied — to go out with a fixed idea of the joint that is to be bought. A general idea of the relative value of each joint, of its usual price, and its average proportion of bone and fat, is all tl nted. The prices of meat, and of all are only fixed so long as the circumstan •;d v.lx n there is a glut in the market of anything that cannot be held back, it is sure to be sold for what< will 1 Foreign Beef is now imported in large quantities, and althor is noi • !4<><»d in flavour or quality: theless <.ind can be usually obt at a lower price. The best parts only used to be sent to this country, but owin-j to the great imp; in the means of transpoi methods for preserving the meat, carcasses frozen, chilled or n ' lent condition, and are cut up and sold m th-* same manner as Kn^lish beef, and usually at a lower rate, thus placing good within the reach of all classes. The chief supplies arc from the ties, Aust f from t of the t>est brands j \rmour and.Morns), are not frozen, but ted or chilled, and are sold at a rate within a fraction of our hoi f is not cons; to be so good as that from the United States, but is considerably less in price, although it is not so cheap as the beef imported from which is the cheapest of all. Large quantities of live cattle are now brought over, especially from Argentina, to England, and are the ma:

The Larder is the only room in the house that should always face due north, so that the sun never comes in, There should be thorough ventilation, and no direct communication with the drains, an unt rapped sink in the floor. The joint should be hung up, not 1 or plate. It should Iw wiped, and it is a good plan to d vith flour or flour and pepper. If placed in a draught, will k i longer time. The kernel, often seen in • mid or silversidc, and the marrow from the backbone should ••fore the joint itself. M< • T Irnm <me that lia-i 1> <-n or bruised, does not keep \\< 11. r than young.

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Tainted Meat. — If meat is clammy or musty from being kept, it should be washed in water containing vinegar or some such nonpoisonous disinfectant as permanganate of potash. Powdered borax dissolved in water is the best to use. Another plan is to powder the joint with charcoal, and then wash it. In any case it should be roasted, not boiled or stewed, if the meat is really tainted ed enough to give it a flavour. It is much better to half-roast or parboil a joint a day or two before it is eaten than to hang it too long, for it is really not hurt by so doing if it is put down to a very hot fire.

The General Mode of Slaughtering Oxen in this country is by striking them a smart blow with a hammer or poleaxe on the head, a little above the eyes. By this means, when the blow is skilfully given, the beast is brought down at one blow, and, to prevent recovery, a cane is generally inserted, by which the spinal cord is perforated, instantly depriving the ox of all sensation of pain. In Spain, and some other countries on the Continent, and also in some parts of England, it is usual to deprive oxen of life by the operation of pithing or dividing the spinal cord in the neck, close to the back part of the head. This is, in effect, the same mode as is practised in the celebrated Spanish bull-fights by the matador, and it is instantaneous in depriving the animal of sensation, if the operator be skilful.

The Manner in which a Side of Beef is cut up in London is shown in the accompanying engraving. The custom varies in different parts of the country, and in some places no difference is made in price between one joint and another. This, however, is of rare occurrence. Meat is sold wholesale at per stone of 8 Ib.

In the Metropolis, on account of the large number of its population possessing the means to indulge in the " best of everything," the demand for the most delicate joints of meat is great; the price, at the same time, being much higher for these than for the other parts. The consequence is that in London the carcass is there divided so as to obtain the greatest quantity of meat on the most esteemed joints. But in many places, owing to a greater equality in the social condition and habits of the inhabitants, the demand and prices for the different parts of the carcase are more equalized, there is not the same reason for the butcher to cut the best joints so large.

The meat on those parts of the animal in which the muscles are least called into action is most tender and succulent; as, for instance, along the back, from the rump to the hinder part of the shoulder; whilst the limbs, shoulder and neck are the toughest, driest, and least esteemed.

Amongst the illustrations is given an engraving of the animal, with the parts indicated from whence the different joints are cut, followed by a list of their names.

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The Names of the Several Joints are as follows: — HlND-QUARTER. FORE-QUARTER.

1. Sirloin. 10. Fore rib (6 ribs).

2. Rump. n. Middle rib (4 ribs).

3. Aitchbone. u. Chuck rib (2 ribs).

4. Buttock or Round. 13. Leg of mutton piece.

Topside. 14. Brisket.

6. Silverside. 15. Clod.

7. Thick flank. 16. Neck or Sticking.

8. Thin flank. >hin.

9. Leg. 1 8. Cheek.

These joints are generally cooked in the following ways — HlND-QUARTER.

(1) Sirloin. — Corresponds to loin of mutton, without the chump-end. Two sirloins together correspond to saddle of mutton, and are known as a baron of beef, now very seldom seen. The sirloin is almost invariably roasted, and is considered the best joint for that purpose. Some of the 1 >uet is always taken away, and some persons cook the under-cut or roll separately, instead of roasting it with the sirloin. The under-cut than any other part for entrees, such as grenadines, olives, lilk-ts of K-rf, etc.

(2) Romp. — Broiling steaks should be cut from here, although often they are not. For stewing, steak from another part does as \v«-ll, and costs several pence less. Also roasted. A first-rate joint for any purpose.

(3) Aitchbone.— Often salted and boiled.

(4) Buttock. — A large lump of solid meat without much fat. The oastedin large establishments where economy is studied, but is boiled or st< (5) Topside. — The top part of buttock, cut into steaks and joints for roasting.

(6) Silverside.— The bottom part of buttock, generally salted and boil (7) Thick Flank. — Coarser in fibre than some parts, but well flavoured, -em-rally tender. No bone and little fat, and sold at a reasonable price, so that it is one of the most economical parts to buy, whether for pics and puddings, or for a roast; also for steaks. (8) Thin Flank. — May be used for stews, but is rather fat. Is al low-priced. Perhaps the best way to use it is to salt or pickle it and it cold, when it is a very economical joint.

(9) Leg. — Only purchased for soup meat, or the lean part ior slow stewing.

FORE-QUARTER.

(10) Fore Rib.— The 6 ril* nearest the sirloin arc the best for any

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purpose. The best end of the ribs, or wing rib, is always to be preferred. The best end of the ribs has a strip of yellow gristle running about an inch from the outer skin. This should always be cut out before it comes to table. It is not necessary to buy all 6 ribs at once, only sufficient to make a piece thick enough to stand up on dish when roasted, or two ribs. It is generally thought more economical to have the bones taken out and the meat rolled round; the bones then serve for soup. This applies of course to the last 3 or 4 ribs, not the wing ribs. (n) Middle Rib. — Almost always roasted. It is from this part that the top and back ribs are obtained.

(12) Chuck Rib. — Cut into steaks, etc., mainly for stewing or puddings. The bladebone steak is also cut from here.

(13) Leg of Mutton Piece. — Really part of chuck rib. Solid meat with little fat. The best for pies and puddings, as it is full of gravy. Good steaks are cut from it, and it is very economical to roast. (14) Brisket, or Breast. — Sold at a low price for stewing or salting. Very good for either purpose, but rather fat. It is excellent cold. (15) Clod. — Part of this is often sent if soup meat is ordered. If it is not fat, it makes good pies and puddings, but the meat should be stewed first. It is also suitable for an economical stew. (16) Neck. — Used in the same way as the clod.

(17) Shin. — For soups, gravies and cheap stews.

(18) Ox Cheek. — This is too bony to be a very cheap joint, although it is sold at a low price, and can be made very palatable by slow stewing, or is good for soup. The brains, well soaked, and boiled or fried, make a good dish.

Besides these joints, the following parts of the ox are sold for food: — (19) Cow-heel. — The feet are boiled and neats-foot oil extracted. These are sold by butchers with the skin on, and are cooked and sold by tripe-dressers or used for soup. They make as good jelly as calves' feet, and what remains of them is very good eating. They can be used for soup in the same way as calves' head. (20) Ox-tail. — For soups and stews. Considered a delicacy, and, therefore, not cheap.

(21) Heart. — Generally roasted. Economical, but, on account of the closeness and hardness of the muscular tissue, very indigestible. (22) Tongue. — Can be bought fresh or salted. Is considered a delicacy. Usually boiled and eaten cold, but also stewed as an entree. (23) Liver. — Very nutritious and very cheap, but coarse flavoured. Finds a ready sale in the poorest quarters. The food known as " faggots," is made of the liver and lights of sheep and bullocks, mixed with some fat.

(24) Lights, or Lungs. — Sold for cats' and dogs' food. (25) Kidneys. — For puddings, pies, or stewing. They are cheaper and less delicate than the kidneys of sheep, and are difficult of digestion.

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PIGS.

\ I i. Large White Yorkshire. 2. Berkshire.

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Kidneys need thorough but light cooking, for if they are exposed to a hitih tt mperature they dry up and become tasteless and horny. (26) Tripe. — Sold partially cleaned by the tripe-d the iruKt (li-^i -tible of meats, and specially suited for invalids, although rather fat. Sometimes served as an entree. It consists of unch or ruminant stomach of the ox. " Blanket tripe," " honeycomb tripe," and "double tripe," are popular names derived from their respective characteristic conformations. (27) Sweetbread. — Coarser in texture than that of the calf, ne and careful cooking.

(28) Suet. — The inside fat. That which surrounds the kidneys is the firmest and best for all purposes, especially for puddings, but at Christ pieces of white fat are sold in its stead.

Spleen, or Milt of bullock, sheep and pig, is sold for food. It is 11 y stulf«.led for Bl not possible t«» l.iv down id iul<- AS to the nl.uive I In- j.unt I vary, p< >' way of a Nation, tl,.- f..ll,m I >c offered: — Kim and bui; 12 ozs. of rumpsteak. Of shin of beef cut without a bone, a shilling buys ij lb., the solid mail cut from the shoulder, about i lb. 3 ozs. Among these are the cheapest of a f beef is only c.r •st a lilt than 1 • per lb., but then ti or 3 ozs. of bone ir shillm it. The shoulder cosi TAB1 E el' THE Kl 1 \1 I\ 1 VALUE OF VARIOUS PARTS OF EF, ACTUAL C«>ST OF THE EATABLE PORTION OF THE DIFFERENT AFTER DEDUCTING LOSS OF WEIGHT FROM \V BY DIFFEl:>ESOFCOOKI t care has been taken in the preparation of theso tables; all the have been specially eonk^d, and t! tl carefully Ii will many to sect1;nt of food the doubtful economy of some of t!

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How usually before when loss perlb.

Cost per Ib. after cooking, bone Ib. ozs.

Ib. ozs.

oz.

s. d.

s. d.

Aitchbone... 9J Brisket.... 6| 0 5J Buttock (in steaks). O IlJ 5 o o 5 o 6J Leg of mutton piece. 5 o Ribs (fore)..:;'; O II,. (middle).:*f> Roasted. N o 9 i 6| Topside.... 0 10 \ O IlJ „ (silver side). o 9 Rump (steaks). I 2j Sirloin.... 6 o O Q O loi ^ V Note. — The prices quoted are average ones for English beef; Australian beef is cheaper, but wastes a little more in cooking; American, U.S., a fraction lower. TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN AND WASTE IN JOINTS OF BEEF. joint when Loss of weight by eatable inait r.

Aitchbone Brisket O 12 Lee: of mutton piece. o 8 I O 5 o Ribs (fore)... 2 O „ (middle).. o 8J 0 IOJ „ (silver side). o 8 Rumpsteak o oJ o oj i 7J Sirloin.... i a"

6 o

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CHAPTER XV 693.— BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. (See Veal Stew.) 694.— BOUDINETTES OF VEAL. (Fr.— Boudinettes Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of lean cooked veal, 2 oz. of cooked lean ham or tongue, i tablespoonful of grated cheese, 2 tablcspoonfuls ot yolk of egg, salt and pepper, pig's caul, 2 or 3 Ib. of spinach, $ a pint of good gravy, meat glaze.

Method. -Wash, pick, cook and rub the spinach through a fine sieve Vegetables). Mince the veal and ham very finely, put them into a small stewpan with i tablespoonful of the spinach puree, the cheese, cream, and yolk of egg, season to taste, stir and cook very slowly or 4 minutes, then turn on to a plate to cool. Cut the caul into 3$ inches square, shape the mixture into squares of ij inches tor, fold them in the pieces of caul, and bake them for 7 or 8 minutes in a moderate oven. Put the spinach into a stewpan with 2 j>oonfuls of gravy, dredge with a little flour, season well with salt, rc-ho.it, and then arrange in an oblong form in the centre of «t hot dish. Brush the boudinettcs over with liquid meat glaze,;e them neatly as squares, or diamond wise on the spinach, and pour round the remainder of the hot gravy.

Time. — 20 to 25 minutes, after the spinach is cooked. Average Cost, iod. to 2S. Sufficient for 6 persons.

695.— BRAIN CAKES. (Fr.— Gateaux de Cervelles de Ingredients. — Calf's brains, i small onion sliced, i bay-leaf, 6 peppcricrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper, vinegar.

Method. Wash the brains in salt and water, remove the skin and them remain in suit and water until wanted.

they may be tied in muslin and toiled with it •out 20 mimr -n cookc they must t>c put

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into a stewpan with as much water as will cover them, i teaspoonful of salt, i tablespoonful of vinegar, the slices of onion, peppercorns and bay-leaf, and cooked gently for the same length of time, or until firm. When cool, chop finely, season well with salt and pepper, and add as much beaten egg as is necessary to bind the ingredients together. Stir over the fire until the mixture thickens, and when cool form into small round cakes, coat them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat.

Time. — i hour altogether. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d., exclusive of the brains. Sufficient to garnish I dish, or, when served as a separate dish, 696.— VEAL A LA ROMAINE. (Fr.— Poitrine de Veau a la Romaine.) Ingredients. — A breast of veal, i Ib. of sausage meat, £ a Ib. of Carolina rice, i tablespoonful of grated cheese, i£ pints of stock, i large onion sliced, i carrot sliced, ^ a small turnip sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay -leaf), 10 peppercorns, pepper and salt. Method. — Remove all bones and tendons, trim neatly, and season well with salt and pepper. Spread the sausage meat evenly over the inner surface, roll up lightly, and bind securely with string. Place the bones and trimmings in a stewpan just large enough to contain the meat, add the prepared vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a good seasoning of salt. Place the meat on the top, add water to nearly cover the vegetables, lay a greased paper on the meat, and put on a close-fitting lid. Cook very gently, basting frequently and adding more water or stock when necessary. Boil the rice in salted water for 10 minutes, drain well, replace in the stewpan, and add the BOILING stock. Simmer gently until the stock becomes absorbed, then season to taste. When the meat has cooked for 2 hours remove it from the stewpan, strain and replace the stock, add the prepared rice, and put back the meat. Cover with a greased paper as before, cook gently for 40 minutes longer, then take up the meat and remove the tape. Stir the cheese into the rice, place it on a hot dish, lay the meat on the top, and serve. The appearance of the meat is improved by brushing it lightly over with glaze. Variety may be introduced by forming the rice into croquettes, in which case it should be cooked in stock, mixed with one or two eggs, and when cold, shaped and fried in hot fat.

Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is., exclusive of the veal. Sufficient or 8 or more persons, according to size. Seasonable at any time. 697.— BREAST OF VEAL STEWED WITH PEAS.

(Fr.— Poitrine de Veau aux Petits Pois.) Ingredients. — Breast of veal, forcemeat balls (see No. 396.), oz. of

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butter, i oz. of flour, 2 tablcspoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, 2 tabletuls of tomato sauce, I tablespoonful of lemon-juice, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, af), 2 cloves, 2 blades of mace, 6 allspice, 6 peppercorns, and a thin strip of lemon-rind (all these should be tied in a piece of muslin", a rs of bacon, i pint of shelled peas, i or 2 ozs. of dripping, salt and p-'p:

Method. — Wipe the meat \vitha clean dampcloth.and cut it into i:iient for serving. Melt the dripping in a stcwpan, and fry the mtil lightly browned; fry the onion for 2 or 3 minutes, then drain off all the fat. Have ready as much boiling stock or water as will just the meat, put it into the stewpan, with the herbs, cloves, mace, allspice, peppercorns, and lemon-rind, add a liberal seasoning of salt, tiul simmer genth:ly 2 hours. Meamvhr icon and run a skewer through it, prepare the forcemeat as dii but in "ist than when iir >r stuffing, shape it into balU the size of a walnut, and either fry or bake them until crisp and broun in a little hot butter or fat; the bacon may be cooked at the same time. When the meat has stewed for 2 hours put in the cook until nearly tender, then add the butter and flour (kneaded smoothly ry small portions. Continue the cooking until th then take out the herbs, etc., put in the ketchup, tomato sauce, lemon- juice, season to taste, and serve garnished with the forceballs and rolls of bacon.

Time.— About 3 hours. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 698. -BREAST OF VEAL, STEWED. (Another Ingredients. — Breast of veal, 2 onions, 2 small carrots, i very small turnip, 12 peppercorns, salt, parsley or piquante sauce (see Sauces). Method. Tut the veal into a saucepan with as much cold water as ring to the boil, skim well, add the vegetables cut into and peppercorns, salt to taste, cover closely, and simmer gently or 3 hours. To serve, pour a little sauce over the veal, an<: the • r to table in a tureen.

Time. From j\ to; hours. Average Cost, (yd. to lod. per Ib. Sufficient, allow 4 Ib. for 8 or 9 persons.

699. -BREAST OF VEAL ROLLED AND STEWED Ingredients. -A breast of veal, veal forcemeat v <its), roils non.

Method. 1 tendons (boil t:

gravy (** ndons;. h the

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cutlet bat or rolling pin, season well with salt and pepper, spread on a thin layer of forcemeat, roll up tightly, and bind firmly with tape. Have ready boiling in a saucepan sufficient stock or water to cover the joint; if water is used, i onion, i carrot, -£ a turnip, and a little celery and seasoning should be added when the water boils. Bring to the boil, skim well, and simmer gently for 3 or 3^ hours, according to size. Meanwhile prepare the gravy (see Gravies), forcemeat balls, and rolls of bacon. When sufficiently cooked, remove the meat to a hot dish, take away the tapes, and garnish with the forcemeat balls, rolls of bacon and cut lemon. When the veal is not a good colour a little of the brown gravy may be used to partially mask it, otherwise serve the whole in a tureen.

Time. — From 3^ to 4 hours altogether. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Sufficient, allow 4 Ib. for 5 or 6 persons.

700.— CALF'S BRAINS, FRIED. (Fr.— Cervelles de Veau f rites.) Ingredients. — i or 2 Calf's brains, vinegar, i small onion. For the batter: 2 ozs. of flour, i tablespoonful of salad oil, % a gill of tepid water, the white of i egg, salt, frying-fat.

Method. — Remove the skin and fibres, wash the brains in several waters, put them into a stewpan with the onion (sliced), and a tablespoonful of vinegar, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Remove from the stewpan, strain, dry well, and cut the brains into rather thin slices. Add a little salt to the flour, mix smoothly with the salad oil and water, whip the white of egg stiffly, and stir it lightly into the batter. Have ready a deep pan of hot frying-fat, dip each slice of brains into the batter, drop these into the hot fat, and fry them until lightly browned. Drain well, dish up, garnish with fried parsley, and Time. — From 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, lod. to is. Sufficient 701.— CALF'S BRAINS, MILAN STYLE.

(Fr. — Cervelles de Veau a la Milanaise.) Ingredients. — 2 calves' brains, f of a pint of tomato sauce, £ of a pint of well reduced white sauce (see Sauces), 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, 4 ozs. of macaroni, i small onion, i tablespoonful of vinegar, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper, flour.

Method. — Prepare, cook and slice the brains as directed in the preceding recipe; season a dessertspoonful of flour with salt and pepper, dip each slice of brains in the mixture, brush over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat. Break the macaroni into short lengths, put it into salted boiling water, and boil

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rapidly until tender, then drain well. Have the white sauce ready, add to it the macaroni and cream, and season to taste. Dish the slices of brains on a potato border, pile the macaroni in the centre, pour round a little of the hot tomato sauce, and serve the remainder in a tureen.

Time. — 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 4 to 6 702.— CALF'S BRAINS WITH MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE. (Fr.— Cervelles de Veau a la Maitre d'Hotel.) Ingredients. — Calf's brains, £ a pint of white sauce (see Sauces), I teaspooonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, i small onion, i tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper. Method. — Prepare and cook the brains as directed in the preceding recipe, and cut them into small thick slices. Have the sauce ready in a. -an, add the parsley, lemon-juice, and season to taste. Put in the s of brain, and, when thoroughly hot, ser Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient, for 703.— CALF'S BRAINS WITH BLACK BUTTER SAUCE. (Fr.— Cervelles de Veau au Beurre Noir.) Ingredients.— 2 calves' brains, £ of a pint of good stock. For the sauce: i£ ozs. of butter, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ^ a lonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the brains in salt and water, remove the skin and fibres, and drain well. Warm the stock in a stewpan, put in the 1 and simmer gently for about 10 minutes, then drain well. Fry the butter in an omelette pan over a quick fire until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then add to it the parsley and vinegar, pour this over the brains, and s< Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 to 6 persons.

704.— CALF'S BRAINS WITH POULETTE SAUCE.

(Fr.— Cervelles de Veau a la Poulette.) Ingredients. — 2 calves' brains. For the sauce: | a pint of stock, i^ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, 2 tablespoon fuls of cream, the juice mon, i shallot, finely-chopped, i teaspoonful of fiiu 1\ --chopped v. For the rice l>< lute stock, 4 ozs. of rice, the yolk of: - nutmeg.

Method. W.ish tl. rs, put them into a stewpan

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with as much water as will cover them, add a few drops of lemon-juice and a teaspoonful of salt. Boil up slowly, then remove the brains, drain well, and cut them into thick dice. Wash the rice, blanch and drain it well, and cook in the stock until tender. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, fry the shallot until lightly browned, stir in the flour, cook for a few minutes without browning, pour in the stock, and stir until it boils. Simmer the sauce gently for 10 minutes, strain, return to the stewpan, put in the brains, cream, remainder of the lemon-juice, and re-heat gradually. When the rice is tender, season it with salt, pepper, add a pinch of nutmeg and the yolk of egg, cook for a few minutes longer, then turn into a well-buttered border mould. Shake the rice well down, in order that it may fill every part of the mould, then turn it on to a hot dish. Add the parsley to the contents of the stewpan, dish the ragout in the centre of the rice border, and serve hot. Time. — About I hour. Average Cost, is. gd. to 2s. Sufficient for 6 or 705.— CALF'S EARS. (Fr.— Oreilles de Veau Farcies).

Ingredients. — 2 ears, forcemeat, No. 396, 1-2 small mushrooms, i onion stuck with 2 cloves, \ a pint of milk, \ a pint of stock, No. 7, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, i yolk of egg, i sliced lemon, salt and pepper, peppercorns.

Method. — The ears should be cut as deeply as possible from the head. Wash, blanch, and drain them thoroughly, put them into a stewpan with the milk, a little water and a seasoning of salt, stew gently for i hour, then drain and dry well. Fill the insides with veal forcemeat, fold and tie securely, and place them in a stewpan with the stock, onion, cloves, 6 peppercorns, and salt to taste. Cook gently for i hour, then strain off the stock, and keep the ears as hot as possible. Meanwhile wash and skin the mushrooms, stew them until tender in a little of the milk in which the ears were cooked, and halve or quarter them. Beat the yolk of egg and cream together, and add the strained stock, stirring meanwhile. Replace in the stewpan, stir by the side of the fire until the yolk of egg thickens, add the prepared mushrooms, and season to taste. Place the ears on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, garnish with sliced lemon, and if liked some small fried forcemeat balls.

Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 4 706.— CALF'S FEET, FRIED. (Fr.— Pieds de Veau a 1'Horly.) Ingredients. — 2 calves' feet. For the stock: i carrot, i onion, 6 peppercorns. For the marinade (brine in which meat, etc., is soused):

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j tabli -noonfuls of salad-oil, j tablcspoonfuls of vinegar, I dc spoonful of finely-chopped par>kv, i tcaspoonful of linely-i hopped onion, salt and pepper, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, flour. Tomato Method. — Wash and scald the cal\ bone tin- U]:nk-bone, split them in two, and soak them in cold water for 2 hours. Put them in a stewpan with some salt. co\er with cold water, bring to the boil, and drain. Return to the stewpan with as much cold water as will cover the feet, add the peppercorns, onion uTOt (sliced), and cook slowly until tender. i of the bon- until cold, tin iiem, set them in a the inaiinade, and let them remain in it for i hour, kg or turning occasionally, in order that both sides may be equally flavoured. Season a heaped tcaspoonful of flour \\ith -alt and pepper; drain:

. and fry in hot fat until i browned.;h tomato K Time. 1 r<>m 3 to 3} hours to boil the kxt. Average Cost,. Sufficient for 3 or 4 pers< 707.— CALF'S HEAD, COLLARED (Cold).

(Fr.— Tete de Veau Farcie.> Ingredients. A i al. i Ib. of 1; ham, j hard i 1 tablrsp., Around inaee, nutnu j, salt.i! a turnip, i strip ot celery, a bouquet garni (i.' v, thyme. if), 12 pep| Method.— Cut.1 in half, take out the them with the ton-ue as a s«. Wash the t it soak f< »r i _• hours liich should be changed several ti 1'ut it i saucepan with a handful of salt, cover with cold \ to the boil, tl in, and wash well in cold \^ Ivcturn. !>'>il. skim well, then add s, bouquet-garni, pe|i|x?rcorns, salt to taste, ly for i^ to 2 hours, <>r until the bones can be easily a out on the table, seas !Je on it a 1: 1 nuime tribut s of ham and sli« '--d eg:: i-\enl ley and a lit lie mon- t! and seas':oll np tightly, and wrap in a jniddini;-cloth. 1 cook gentl\ 'ii the cloth, and press bet• •s or boards until c«>ld.

Time. — To cook, about 4 hours. Average Cost,

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708.— CALF'S HEAD, COLLARED (Hot).

Ingredients. — A calf's head. For the forcemeat: the calf's brains and tongue, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i dessertspoonful of finelychopped parsley, i level teaspoonful of mixed herbs, the grated rind of a lemon, 2 eggs, salt and pepper. For the sauce: i pint of the stock, i£ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i tablespoonful of cooked coarselychopped mushrooms, i tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkins, the juice of i lemon. For the stock: see preceding recipe. Method. — Prepare blanch, and partially boil the head as directed in the preceding recipe. Boil the tongue in the same saucepan, remove the skin, and chop it finely. Wash the brains in several waters, let them remain in salt and water until wanted, then tie loosely in a piece of muslin, boil with the head for about £ an hour, and when cool chop coarsely. Mix the tongue, brains, breadcrumbs, parsley, herbs and lemon-rind together, add a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, and beaten egg in sufficient quantity to thoroughly moisten the whole. Bone, flatten, and season the head, spread on the forcemeat, roll up tightly in a cloth, and cook gently for 2 hours. When nearly ready, melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook for 5 minutes. Add to the roux or thickening a pint of stock from the saucepan, stir until it boils, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then put in the mushrooms, gherkins, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste. Serve the head on a hot dish, garnished with cut lemon, and the sauce separately in a tureen. Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, from 75. to 93. 6d. 709.— CALF'S HEAD, BOILED. (Fr.— Tete de Veau Bouillie.) Ingredients. — A calf's head. For the stock: i or 2 onions, i or 2 carrots, i small turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, salt. For the sauce: i£ oz. of butter, 1 4- ozs. of flour, \ a pint of stock, \ a pint of milk, lemon-juice i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i egg, browned breadcrumbs.

Method. — Prepare and blanch the head in the usual manner, return it to the saucepan, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, skim well, then add the prepared vegetables, herbs, peppercorns, salt to taste, and simmer from 2 to 2^ hours, according to size. Boil the tongue at the same time. Wash the brains in several waters, let them remain in salt and water until wanted, then tie loosely in a piece of muslin, boil with the head for about \ an hour, and when cool, chop coarsely and use for the sauce. The head may be served plainlyboiled, but it presents a better appearance when it has been coated with egg and brown breadcrumbs, and baked for 20 minutes in the oven, being frequently basted during the time. It is more easily carved, and the various parts are more evenly distributed when the bones are

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removed, and the head rolled, before baking; it must be bound with strong tape, and the bare parts under the tape sprinkled with breadcrumbs before serving. About £ an hour before the head is ready to melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour and cook for 5 minutes, then pour in the milk and £ a pint of liquor from the pot in which the head is cooking. Stir until it boils, simmer for 10 minutes, add the: ed brains, parsley, lemon-juice, and seasoning to taste. Remove the skin from the tongue, and cut it into thin slices. Place tinon a hot dish (if not egged and breadcrumbed, brush over with glaze), garnish with slices of tongue and lemon, and serve the sauce in a i. A piece of boiled ham or bacon is occasional. I as an •mpaniment to this dish.

Time. — To cook, about 4 hours. Average Cost, 5$. 6d. to 8s. 710. -CALF'S HEAD, FRIED. (Fr.— Fritot de Tete Ingredients. — The remains of a cooked calf's head. For the marinade: 2 tablcspoonfuls of salad oil or melted butter, i tablespoonful of lemonr, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or oni«>n. i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ^ teaspoonful of mixed herbs, ud pepper. For the batter: 4 ozs. of flour, 2 tablespoon! salad oil, ^ of a pint of tepid water, the whites of 2 eggs, salt Method. — Cut the meat into strips about 2$ inches long and i inch place them in a deep dsh, pour over the marinade, and allow the o remain in it for at least i hour. Mix the flour, salt, salad-oil smoothly together; whisk the white of egg stiffly, and stir it y into the batter. Drain the pieces of meat well, dip them into the. and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Pile on a hot irnish \\ith fried parsley. When a more elaborate dish is reI, the fried strips may be dished in a circle on a border of mashed potato, with the centre filled with a puree of spinach, asparagus whatever may be- <1, and either tomato or a good ice poured round.

Time. — 1$ hours. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the meat. 711.— CALF'S HEAD WITH POULETTE SAUCE.

(Fr.— Tete de Veau a la Poulette.) Ingredients. — Some boned boiled calf's head, i pint of white sauce (see -'), i tablespoonful of cream, the yolk of i egg, i dessertspoonful •ped parsley, lemon-juice to taste, salt and pepj> Method. -Cut the i »f the cal: into nice slices, ^auce as d l<-t it CO 1 together, and stir t)

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the side of the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, but the sauce must not boil, or the egg may curdle. Put in the meat, parsley, lemon-juice, add seasoning to taste, cover closely, and stand the stewpan in the bain-marie, or in a tin of hot water, until the meat is thoroughly hot, then serve. Time. — About 30 minutes, after the white sauce is made. Average Cost, ?s. 6d. to 8s. 6d.

712.— CALF'S HEAD WITH TOMATO SAUCE.

(Fr.— Tete de Veau a la Tomate.) Ingredients, — Half a boned calf's head, |- pint of tomato sauce (see Sauces), 3 or 4 ozs. of macaroni, salt and pepper. Method. — Break the macaroni into pieces about f of an inch long, put these into salted boiling water, and boil rapidly until tender. Cut the remains of the calf's head into slices convenient for serving. Have the tomato sauce ready in a stewpan, add to it the macaroni and meat, season to taste, make thoroughly hot, and serve.

Time. — About % an hour. Average Cost, from 33. 9d. to 45. 9d. 7i3._CALF'S HEAD WITH MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE. (Fr.— Tete de Veau a la Maitre Ingredients. — The remains of a calf's head, i pint of white sauce (see Sauces) i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, i dessertspoonful of finelychopped parsley salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving. Make the sauce as directed put in the pieces of calf's head and let them become thoroughly hot, then add the parsley and lemon-juice, season to taste and serve.

Time. — 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. exclusive of the calf's head. 714.— CALF'S HEAD, HASHED.

Ingredients. — \ a calf's head veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats) a few rashers of bacon, i pint of liquor in which the head was cooked i glass of sherry, 12 button mushrooms, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour. For the brain cakes: 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, mace, herbs. For the stock: 2 onions, 2 carrots, i turnip, 2 strips of celery, 10 peppercorns, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt. Method. — Prepare and blanch the head as directed in " Calf's Head, Collared," return it to the saucepan, bring to the boil, skim well, add the prepared vegetables, herbs, peppercorns, and salt to taste, and simmer gently until the bones can be easily removed. Drain the head, strain the stock, put i quart of it into a stewpan, and boil rapidly to reduce. Remove the bones from the head, cut the meat into pieces

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RECIPES FOR COoKiXt, VEAL 445 i| inches square, skin the tongue, and cut it into £ inch dice. Wash the brains in 3 or 4 waters, let them remain in salt and water until:ited, then tie them in a piece of muslin, boil with the head for £ an hour, and make into cakes (see Brain Cakes, No. 695). Make the force- directed, shape into balls, and either bake or fry them in hot fat for about 15 minutes; roll the rashers of bacon, run a sk< through them, and either fry or bake until crisp. Knead the flour and butter together, add the mixture to the reduced stock, and when smoothly mixed put in the pieces of calf's head, tongue, mushrooms (previously cooked and cut into j or 4 pieces, according to their size), -on to ta simmer gently for \ an hour, then add the. ('tarnish with the forcemeat halls, brain i\>' and roll> Time. — 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 5*. to r,s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 >ns.

715.— CALF'S HEAD, MOULDED.

Ingredients. — The remains of a id. To i Ib. a Ib. of ham or bacon, 3 hard-boiled eggs, the finely-grated rind of i ler. i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a pint (about) of redi; k in which the head was cooked, a pinch each of nutmeg, ground id ground cloves, salt and pepper.

Method.— Cut the remains of th< < ad and ham or bacon into due, » ut tin- eg *a into \\\ a pattern on the bottom of a but mix the:

•••in of the mould wit '. Liver of.. the top of it thin h.iin or bacov. ml ^uinkle well, the lla. oat until the mould is full, pour in the warm stock, cover with a greased paper, and bake for hours in a slow oven. Add a little more hot stock as soon as the mould •ill, turn out of the mould, garnish with small Time. — To cook, abou rs, Average Cost, 23. 9d. to j>. Sufficient t >ns.

716. -CALF'S HEAD PIE. (/•>. -Pat6 de Tete de Ingredients.— 1 ham or bacon, ? balls (see F« •, j hard-l>oi! \ a pint of st< bs, the t \ a lemon, a pineh of ground mace, a j>ir.- •«! Method. Cut th<:

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into narrow strips, cut the eggs into thin slices, mix the forcemeat rather stiffly with a little raw egg, and shape into small balls. Put a fairly thick layer of calf's head on the bottom of a piedish, cover with a thin layer of ham or bacon, add a few slices of egg, and a good sprinkling of salt, pepper, herbs, mace, nutmeg, and lemon-rind. Repeat until the dish is full, add the stock, and cover with the pastry, Bake in a moderately hot oven for about i hour, when cooked pour in, through the hole on the top, a little hot jellied stock, and set aside until cold.

Time. — To bake, about i hour. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45. 6d. 717.— CALF'S KIDNEY WITH SCRAMBLED EGGS.

(Fr.— Rognons aux Oeufs Brouilles.) Ingredients. — i large or 2 small calf's kidneys, £ a pint of Espagnole sauce (see sauces), £ of a pint of gravy or good stock, i glass of sherry, 2 ozs. of butter, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 shallots or i very small onion finely chopped, 4 eggs, i tablespoonful of milk (about), salt and pepper.

Method. — Boil the sauce and gravy together for £ an hour, then add the sherry. Remove all fat and skin from the kidney, cut it into very thin slices, and season well with salt and pepper. Melt half the butter in a saute-pan or frying-pan, fry the shallots lightly, add the slices of kidney, and fry quickly on both sides, shaking the pan meanwhile over the fire. Pour the sauce over the kidney, draw the pan to the side of the fire, and cook slowly for 10 or 1 5 minutes. Beat up the eggs, add to them about i tablespoonful of milk and season to taste. Melt the remainder of the butter in a stewpan, pour in the eggs, cook very gently, and stir until they thicken. Arrange the kidney in a circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and pile the scrambled eggs in the centre. Sprinkle the parsley over the whole, and serve. Time. — From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 718.— CALF'S LIVER BRAISED. Fr.— (Foie de Veau, Braise.) Ingredients. — A small calf's liver, a few strips of larding-bacon, \ a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces), £ of a pint of good stock, i glass of port wine, the juice of \ a lemon, i small onion sliced, i small carrot sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i blade of mace, i bay-leaf, 6 peppercorns, i clove, a small slice of ham or bacon cut into strips, i oz. of butter.

Method. — Soak the liver in cold water for 20 minutes, then drain, dry well, and insert the strips of bacon, which should be about | of an

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inch thick and i£ inches long. Melt the butter in a shallow stcwpan, add the onion, carrot, and ham, fry slightly, then put in the liver and let it brown. Pour off the fat, add the brown sauce, stock, bouquetgarni, mace, bay-leaf, and simmer gently for about i hour. Then add me, lemon- juice and parsley, boil, simmer for 10 minutes longer, remove the liver to a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and serve. Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2S. 6d. 719.— CALF'S LIVER WITH ONION PUREE.

(Fr.— Foie de Veau a la Clermont.) Ingredients. — J Ib. of calves' liver, I large Spanish onion, 2 ozs. of butter, £ a pint of Espagnole sauce (see Sauces), £ of a pint of stock, i tahlespoonful of flour, salt and pepper, a little finely-chopped parsley. Method.— Peel and blanch the onion, cut it into very small dice, fry in J of the butter until lightly browned, then add the stock, and cook, until reduced to a thick puree, adding the brown sauce gradually as the stock boils away. Cut the liver into slices about f of an inch in thickness, cut off the corners and trim to a uniform oval or round shape. Mix the flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and a £ of a tcaspoonful per together on a plate, and dip the slices of liver in the mixture. Melt the remaining oz. of butter in a saut6-pan, and fry the liver on both sides until nicely browned and firm to the touch, then drain well. Season the onion puree to taste, spread it lightly on a hot dish, arrange the slices of liver on the top, sprinkle with pa Time. — About i hour. Avenge Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 720. -CALF'S LIVER AND BACON.

(Fr.— Fritot de Foie de Veau.) Ingredients.— i Ib. of calf's liver, $ a Ib. of bacon, i oz. of butter, flour, Method. r, and cut it into slices about $ of an:;i thickness; add a good seasoning of salt and pepper to a i spoonful of flour, and dip the pieces of liver in the mixture. he frying pan, put in the bacon, cut into thin slices, fry slowly, «• to a HOT tin, and keep hot until wanted. Fry t in the::itil nicely browned on both sides, then remove to a hoi Pour away the bacon fat, add the butter (the bacon fat may be used ! when not disliked, sprinkle in about a tablespoon ful of flour, stir and fry until brown. Add about $ a pint of warm water, stir until it boils, and season to taste. Arrange the pieces of liver in a close.in the gravy over, place the slices of bacon on the top, and rred, the gra< 1 scparatelv in a tureen, and t;, of bacon curled before frying, and piled in the centre of t;

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Time.— About 35 or 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient 721.— CALF'S LIVER WITH PIQUANTE SAUCE.

(Fr. — Foie de Veau a la Sauce Piquante.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of calf's liver, frying fat. For the sauce: \ a pint of water, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, 4 shallots or i small onion finelychopped, 2 gherkins coarsely- chopped, 3 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, Method. — Wash and dry the liver thoroughly, and cut it into neat slices. Mix i tablespoonful of flour, \ a teaspoonful of salt and | of a teaspoonful of pepper together, and dip the pieces of liver in the mixture. Place the shallots or onion, gherkins and vinegar in a small stewpan, boil rapidly for 10 minutes, and keep it hot. Fry the liver in hot fat until lightly cooked and nicely browned, then remove and keep it as hot as possible. Pour away any fat that remains in the fryingpan, but leave all the brown sediment, add the butter, and when hot sprinkle in the flour. Stir and fry slowly until well browned, add the water and seasoning to taste, stir until boiling, simmer gently for 5 minutes, then strain and mix with the vinegar, etc. Arrange the liver neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve as hot as possible. Time. — To fry the liver, 5 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 722.— CALF'S HEART, BAKED. (Fr.— Coeur de Veau Roti.) Ingredients. — A calf's heart, veal forcemeat {see Forcemeats), a few rashers of bacon, salt and pepper, fat, brown gravy (see Gravies). Method. — Wash the heart in several waters, let it remain in cold water i hour, then drain, and dry thoroughly. Fill the inside with forcemeat, tie a piece of oiled or buttered paper round it, and bake in a moderate oven for about 2 hours. Baste well, and about % an hour before serving remove the paper and dredge well with flour. The gravy in the tin may be used to enrich or form the basis of the brown gravy. Make this hot and pour round the dish. Garnish with fried bacon. Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost. 9d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 723.— CREPINETTES OF VEAL. (Fr.— Crepinettes Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of cooked lean veal, i oz. of cooked ham or tongue, 4 preserved mushrooms, i small truffle, 6 or 7 tablespoonfuls of spinach puree, i egg, a good pinch of grated lemon-rind, a small pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, pig's caul., meat glaze, 5 or 6 oval paper cases.

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RECIPES FOR COOKIMi VEAL 449 Method.— Prepare the spinach puree (see Vegetables), mince tinam! ham very finely, cut the mushrooms and truffles into fine short strips, add the lemon-rind, nutmeg, season to taste, mix well together, and bind with the egg. Cut the caul into pieces about 4 inch and 2\ inches wide, shape the mixture into small oval forms, 2 iiu long, and nearly i j inches wide, fold them in the caul, and bake in a moderate oven for 7 or 8 minutes. Put the spinach puree into a s: pan, add a tablespoonful of good gravy or cream, dredge in a little flour, on with salt and pepper, and when thoroughly hot, put a tablespoonful into each paper case. Brush the civpinetu-s over with L' place them in the cases, and serve. The crepine- ^ed, breadcrumb. <1. fiied. and served on a bed of spinach (see Boudinof Veal, p. 435)Time.— 20 to 25 minutes, after the -pina. h is o.okrd. Average Cost, is., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for fi or 7 i ivpiiu; 724. -CROQUETTES OF VEAL. (Fr. — Croquettes Ingredients. — i lb. of cold veal, i oz. oi butter or dripping, $ an or. iour, | of a pint of stock, the rind of | a lemon grated, i teaspo< mly-chopped parsley, a good pinch of nutmeg, i egg, breadcrumbs, ir\ ad pepper.

Method.— Chop th:iely. and ln.il th< for the Stock. Mi-It th. Utter in;i, add the t! pour in the stock, and stir until it Imils tin- intended to bind..menu m an e-^ i ad), boil the or ^ minutes, then add the i:.nd, nut: i MIII on to a plate, when eo«.l fi.rm into cork |] brush «• wit!. egg, coat well with breadmn-: fry until nibrowned in h(< Time. From ij to 2 hours. Average Cost, Sufficient for 4 or 5 per> idecroqii' t in>i«l«-. l.ut tlu- iiuxturr inn I niih-ss the liquid i^'-d in its J>K-J nt.nn> t! ' wlu-ii it; tiriiiMi-ss it is inon!

i tlutu-ulty. All th. niid..Id t«> tin- niixtui-f a COI form.1 jrlly \vi.,- liquid.

-n bismotber.lt called a bull, or ox -calf; when one year old be is termed a stirk. stot, or yearling. On the romp second year be u known as a two-year-old bull or steer— in some counties a stfater— a »x " is used as a gn • • TV,,|.|.1 thrrr-year-old •!' ' '.

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725.— CROUSTADES OF CALF'S BRAINS.

(Fr. — Croustades aux Cervelles.) Ingredients. — i set calf's brains, a little cooked tongue, \ a pint of good white sauce (see Sauces), i tablespoonful of cream, the yolk of i egg, a good pinch of mace, a few drops of lemon- juice, vinegar, salt and pepper, i small onion, short crust paste. Method. — Line some small, deep, oval or round moulds, thinly with paste, (dariol moulds may be made to serve), prick the bottoms to prevent them blistering, line them with buttered paper, and fill with rice. Bake in a moderately-hot oven, then remove the paper and rice, take the cases out of the moulds, and return them to the oven until they become crisp and lightly browned. Wash the brains well in salt and water, and boil them until firm in water, to which must be added i tablespoonful of vinegar, i teaspoonful of salt, and i small onion (sliced). Drain well, and cut into small dice, also cut the tongue into dice. Have ready the white sauce, add to it the dice of tongue and brains, cream, lemon-juice, mace, seasoning, yolk of egg, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture is thoroughly hot and the egg cooked. Fill the pastry cases with the mixture, sprinkle on the top of each a little finely-chopped truffle or a few panurette breadcrumbs, and serve either hot or cold.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the paste and brains. Sufficient, allow 8 croustades for 6 persons. 726.— CURRY OF VEAL. (Fr.— Kari de Veau.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of neck, breast or fillet of veal, i pint of stock or water, 2 ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of flour, i tablespoonful of curry-powder, i teaspoonful of curry-paste, i sour apple, 2 small onions coarsely-chopped, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, 4 ozs. of Method. — Cut the meat into pieces about i£ inches square, and fry them in the hot butter until lightly browned. Lift the pieces of meat on to a plate, sprinkle in the flour and curry-powder, add the onion, and fry gently for 10 minutes. Add the stock, curry-paste, sliced apple, salt to taste, boil, replace the meat, and cook gently from 2 to 2^ hours. Boil the rice, drain, and dry well. When the meat is tender remove it to a hot dish, season the sauce to taste, add the lemon- juice and strain over the meat. The rice should be served separately.

Time. — From 2^ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2s. 9d. Sufficient

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727.— CUTLETS BROILED WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.

(Fr.— Cotelettes de Veau a 1'Italienne.) Ingredients. — i£ Ib. of fillet or neck of veal, £ a pint of Italian sauce, No. 252, i egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, clarified butter. Method. — Divide the meat into thin slices, which afterwards trim into neat cutlets. Dip them in egg seasoned with salt and pepper, coat with breadcrumbs, and afterwards with clarified butter. Broil the cutlets over a clear fire, brushing them over occasionally with clarified butter, to prevent the breadcrumbs burning. Arrange neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve.

Time. To broil, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, neck of veal, rod. to is.; fillet, is. to is. 2d.

728.— VEAL COLLOPS. (Fr.— Paupiettes de VeaiO Ingredients. — 1$ Ib. of fillet of veal, a ic\\: bacon, force i <>6, i egg, breadcrumbs, fat for frying, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, mace, salt and pepper, lemon-ji Method. — Cut the meat into very thin strips 3 inches long and 2 inches cover with thin pieces of bacon the same size, season well with salt and pepper, and spread lightly with forcemeat. Roll up lightly. coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry gently in h< turning frequently so as to brown the entire surface. Remove and:ot, drain aw., that remains, but preserve the sediment. Put in the butter, and as soon as it is hot sprinkle in the flour, and cook gently until lightly browned. Add $ of a pint of b< tor, i poonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper to taste, and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Arrange the collops hot dish, strain the sauce round, then s*:

Time. — To fry the collops, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 729. -FILLETS OF VEAL. (Fr.-Filets de Veau.) Ingredients. — 1$ Ib. of fillet of veal, a few slices of bacon, 2 ozs. of IMIIHT, i egg, hrraiKniii'.Ks, the grated rind of i lemon, i teaspoonful <>f leu • -ixx>nful of finely-chopped parsley, ^ of. spoonful of thyme. \ a pint of tomato sauce, bro\ '•clients: $ a pint of white stock, $ an oz.

cream, | a teaspoonful of lemon- ju; small piece of meat glaze, salt and pepper.

Method. -out £ an inch in thickness, and rounds 2^ or. in diameter. Ikat the egu to it the parslrv. \\ • • <n riml, lemon-juice, dip each fillet in the

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mixture, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter, in a saute-pan. When nicely browned on both sides take them out of the pan, and keep them hot. Add the flour to the butter in the pan, fry lightly, pour in the stock, stir till it boils, then add the lemon-juice, cream and glaze, season to taste, and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes. The fillets may be dished in a circle on a border of mashed potato, with the rolls of bacon piled in the centre, or in two rows alternately with fried, thin, stampedout rounds of bacon of equal size. The sauce should be strained and poured round the dish.

Time. About \ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 7 to 9 persons.

THE GOLDEN CALF. — In the Book of Genesis we are told that Aaron, constrained by the impatient Israelites during the lengthened absence of Moses in the Mount, made a golden calf from the golden earrings presented by the people, to represent the Elohim which brought the Children of Israel out of the land of Egypt. The " Golden Calf " was probably a wooden figure of a calf overlaid with plates of gold, fashioned in a similar manner to the gilded ox covered with a pall, which the Egyptian regarded as the symbol of Osiris, one of the great Egyptian divinities, and the king of the gods and J udge of the Dead. The offerings, dancing, and rejoicings which the Israelites practised were probably identical with the ceremony with which Mnevis, one of the three kinds of sacred bulls, was worshipped in Egypt: hence the punishment inflicted upon the people by Moses. 730.— FILLETS OF VEAL, TALLEYRAND STYLE.

(Fr.— Filets de Veau a la Talleyrand.) Ingredients. — I Ib. of fillet or cushion of veal, i£ ozs. of butter, 2 shallots finely-chopped, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 6 preserved mushrooms, the juice of ^ a lemon, |- of a pint of white sauce, the yolks of 2 eggs, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the meat into 6 or 7 pieces of equal size and thickness, flatten slightly with a cutlet-bat, and trim into a round or oval form. Melt the butter in a saute or frying-pan, put in the cutlets, and cook them thoroughly, but do not allow them to acquire much colour. Have the white sauce nearly boiling in a small stewpan, put in the fillets, cover, and draw to the side of the stove. Cut the mushrooms into small pieces, add them, together with the shallots, to the butter in the sautepan, fry for a few minutes without browning, then turn the contents of the saute-pan into the stewpan, simmer very gently until the fillets are tender, then cool slightly. Add the lemon-juice, parsley, yolks of eggs, season to taste, and stir gently by the side of the fire until the sauce thickens, but it must not boil, or the eggs may curdle. Dish the fillets in a single row on a foundation of mashed potato, which helps to keep them in position, pour the sauce over them carefully, in order that every part may be equally coated, and serve.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. 731.— FRICASSEE OF CALF'S FEET. (Fr.— Pieds de Veau en Fricassee.) Ingredients. — 4 cooked calves' feet (those which have been boiled down for jelly may be used), i pint of white sauce (see Sauces), i tea-

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RECIPES FOR COOKINi; YFAL 453 spoonful of finely-chopped parsley, I teaspoonful of lemon-ji: table>poonfuls of small dice of cooked ham or bacon, salt and pepper, nuti:

Method. — Remove all the bones, and cut the meat into pieces of equal size. Make the white sauce as directed, add to it the ham or 1 the pieces of calves' feet, and let the stewpan stand by the side of the fire until the contents are thoroughly hot; then put in the parsley and lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient to 8 persons.

732.— FILLET OF VEAL STEWED. (Fr.— Filet de veau etuve.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of fillet of veal, forcemeat, No. 396, i£ ozs. of bur >. of flour, i oz. of drip]' ^h mushrooms obtainablr. lemon -juice, mace, salt and pepper, i pint of stock or !>les if nccess.

Method. — Flatten the meat well with a cutlet-bat or rollin: ! on the tnrccnu-.it, roll up and tie securely with tape. the meat until the entire surface is I, thm dram off the fat. Add the mushrooms, stock or if lining the latter add a little sliced onion, carrot and turnip, ami a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover « mum T for 2 hours, taking ( an th.it the stock;ust at sinun.while melt thr butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and ntly until nicely browned, and \\ ! add t! '1 liquor in which: until boiling, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then add the lemon season to taste. Serve the meat on a hot disli with a little sauce poured and the remainder in a tureen.

Time. About 2\ hours. Average Cost, 4*. Sufficient for 10 or 12 733. -FRICANDEAU OF VEAL WITH SORREL.

(Fr.— Fricandeau de Veau a 1'Oseille.) Ingredients.— 3 Ib. of tdlct of veal, larding 1 ozs. of butter, r om. i turnip, j MI ips <•. bouquet-garni (p.r es, 2 blades of mace, 6 peppercorns, \ a pint, i^ Ib. of son Method. —Lard the veal in close rows. Tut the vegetables and the; into a stewpan. lay the meat on the top, cover, and fry; us, and s,i b a greased pa; >n the lid, and

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braise for 3 hours, adding more stock as that in the stewpan reduces. When done, put in the oven on a baking-sheet for a few minutes, to crisp the bacon, brush over with glaze, and place on a hot dish. Add a little glaze to the liquor in the stewpan, skim, strain, season to taste, and serve in a sauce-boat, garnish the dish with the sorrel puree, and serve. Spinach may be used instead of sorrel.

Time. — 3^ to 3! hours. Average Cost, about 53. Sufficient for 8 or 734.— FRICASSEE OF CALF'S HEAD. (Fr.— Tete de Veau en Fricassee.) Ingredients. — \ a calf's head, i pint of the liquor in which the head was boiled, i£ ozs. of butter i£ ozs. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of i lemon, a good pinch of mace, salt and pepper, rolls of fried bacon, forcemeat balls (see Forcemeats). Method. — Prepare and boil the calf's head as directed in the recipe for " Calf's Head Collared " (the remains of a calf's head may be used), remove the bones, and cut the meat into pieces i£ inches square. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the flour for a few minutes without browning, then add the stock, stir until it boils, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Add the mace, seasoning to taste, put in the pieces of meat, cover closely, and draw the stewpan to the side of the stove for about 20 minutes. Shape the forcemeat into small balls, and either fry or bake them until nicely browned. Place the rolls of bacon on a skewer and fry or bake them until crisp. Remove the pieces of meat from the sauce, and arrange them on a hot dish in a pile. Have ready the cream and yolks of eggs mixed lightly together, add these to the sauce, and stir by the side of the fire until they thicken, but the sauce must on no account be allowed to boil. Add the lemon- juice, season to taste, and strain over the meat. Garnish with the forcemeat balls and rolls of bacon, and serve.

Time. — After the calf's head is boiled, nearly i hour. Average Cost, 43. to 55. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

735.— GALANTINE OF VEAL. (Fr.— Galantine de Ingredients. — A small breast of veal, \\ or 2 Ib. of sausage meat, 2 or 3 rashers of bacon (ham or tongue may be substituted), i hardboiled egg, glaze (see p. 137), salt, pepper, a grate of nutmeg, ground mace, ground cloves.

Method. — Bone the veal, and flatten it out on the table. Season well with salt and pepper, spread on £ the sausage meat in an even layer, distribute narrow strips of bacon and slices of egg over the surface, add mace, nutmeg, and cloves in very small quantities, and a liberal

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seasoning of salt and pepper, and cover with the remainder of the sausage meat. Roll the meat up tightly, wrap it in a pudding cloth, secure the ends with string, put the roll into boiling stock, or into boiling water, to which has been added the veal bones, i or 2 onions, i or 2 small carrots, i turnip, celery, salt and peppercorns, and cook gently for 3 or 3^ hours. When cooked and nearly cold take off the cloth, which always becomes loose, re-roll, tie tightly as before, and press the galantine between two boards or dishes until cold. Before serving brush over with glaze, and garnish with parsley, and, if liked, some fancifully-shaped, or coarsely-chopped aspic jelly. Time.— From 3 to 3^ hours, to boil the galantine. Average Cost, IS. ]KT 11).

\\Mhv CALVES SHOULD BE KILLED.— A calf should not be killed under 4 weeks; the flesh prior •ime lacks firmness, due development of muscular fibre, and is deficient in the animal juices on which the flavour and nutritive properties of the flesh depend. The calf is considered to be in prime condition at 10 weeks, and should then weigh from 16 to 18 stone. 736.— GATEAU OF COLD VEAL. (Fr.— Gateau de Ingredients. — J Ib. of cold veal (or veal and ham mixed), 2 tablespoonfuls of white breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley £ teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, a pinch of nutmeg, i egg, i or 2 poonfuls of gravy or mi. browned breadcrumbs, $ pint of Method. -Grease a round mould or cake tin, and well cover it with browned breadcrumbs. Put the bones and browned trimmingsof thinto a stewpan with a little salt and pepper, and boil gently until the is required, then did season to taste. Chop the iinely, add to it the white breadcrumbs, parsley, lemon-rind, nutmeg, the egg beaten, and as much gravy or milk as will thoroughly moisten -hole. Season rather highly with salt and pepper, press the mixture tightly into the cake tin, and bake in a moderate oven for 40 or 45 minutes. Turn out, pour a little gravy round, and ser\ mder separately.

Time. — About i£ hours, altogether. Average Cost, 3d. or 41! ive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

737.— GRENADINES OF VEAL. (Fr.— Grenadins de Ingredients. — 1$ Ib. of fillet of \ \v strips of larding bacon, i pint of good stock, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i onion, i carrot, i nip, 2 strips of celery, 6 peppercorns, i clove, a bouquet-garni v-leaf), meat glaze, salt, pepper.

Method. •» slices about | an inch in thickness, and iut<> rounds from 2 to 2$ inches id the

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grenadines on one side with strips of bacon i£ inches long, and about £ of an inch wide. Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in the bouquetgarni, peppercorns, clove, and the vegetables sliced, lay the grenadines on the top of them, cover closely, and fry gently for 10 minutes. Then add as much stock as will nearly cover the vegetables, and the remainder by degrees, to replace that which boils away. Cover the grenadines with a buttered paper, cover closely, and braise for i hour. When tender, remove the grenadines from the stewpan, put them in a hot oven for a few minutes, to brown and crisp the bacon, and brush over with meat glaze. Have ready the brown roux, or thickening, made by frying the remaining oz. of butter and the flour together until brown, strain the liquor from the stewpan on to it, boil and stir until smooth, simmer a few minutes, then season to taste, and use. Dish the grenadines in a circle on a border of mashed potato, fill the centre with peas, asparagus points, or any suitable vegetable, pour the sauce round, and Time. — About i^ hours. Average Cost, 25. 3d. to 25. 6d. Sufficient 738.-GRENADINES OF VEAL. (Fr.-Grenadins de Veau a la Marchand de vin.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of fillet of veal, a few strips of larding bacon, 3 or 4 slices of lean bacon, 2 ozs. of butter, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, 2 finely-chopped shallots, % a gill of tomato sauce, \ a gill of brown sauce, | a glass of claret, salt and pepper. Method. — Prepare and lard the grenadines as directed in the previous recipe. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, fry the shallots in butter without browning them, pour off the butter into a saute-or frying-pan, add the claret to the shallots, and boil until well reduced. Add the tomato and brown sauces, parsley, season with salt and pepper, and boil rapidly until considerably reduced. Re-heat the butter in the saute-pan, and fry the grenadines until lightly browned on both sides, then pour off the butter, add the reduced sauce, cover the saute-pan with a lid, and cook gently for about 15 minutes. Take up the grenadines, arrange them in a circle on a border of mashed potato, fill the centre with strips of lean bacon, previously fried in the butter, strain the sauce over the grenadines, and serve. Time. — About \\ hours. Average Cost, 33. to 35. 3d. Sufficient for 739.— HARICOT OF VEAL. (Fr.— Haricot de Veau.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of neck of veal, i£ ozs. of butter or dripping, i£ ozs. of flour, i£ pints of white stock or water, i onion, i carrot, i turnip, salt and pepper.

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Method. — Divide the meat into pieces convenient for serving, cut the vc-etabks into small dice, which put aside, and preserve the trimmings. Heat the butter or fat in a stewpan, fry the meat lightly on both sides, then remove to a plate. Sprinkle in the Hour, iry slowly until well-browned, then add the stock or water, and stir until b. cidd the vegetable trimmings, put in I.. Sunnier very gently lor j hours, then remove to a hot strain the sauce over, and garnish with the dice » lously boiled se; -.intil tenTime, j} hours. Average Cost, is. iod. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at anv time.

740. — KNUCKLE OF VEAL, STEWED.

Ingredients. — A knuckl OF bacon to boil, or.1 •: nil and fry.; tablcspoonfuls of rice, I onion, I small carrot, £ a small turnip, i strip of i t-oiKjuet;n parsley, thyme, bay leaf. salt and pepper, parsley sauce (see es).

Method. — Separate the shank bone, put it with the meat into a saucei containing sulhcient boiling \\ater to cover, bring to the boil, n well, add the vegetables (cut into dice), the herbs ham or bacon should be boiU-d mst ' be gently simmered for a! rice should be well:ul added to tin contents of the s. move the meat from the broth, and keep it hot. Take out tl ni, season the broth to taste, and serve sep.t a 1 -lor in a tureen. Send the ham or taOG bhi Time. About 3 hours. Average Cost, 53. od. to '•>. Sufficient 6 01 'US.

741. -LITTLE TIMBALES OF VEAL WITH MUSHROOMS. -Petites Timbales de Veau aux Champignons.) Ingredients. — 6 oz^. uncooked veal, 2 ozs. of uncooked or i oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of white sa l>le•>, salt aiv l-or the pan.ula: j pn \ an oz. of butter. For t! <>om puree-: \,i. '»oms, I oz. of butter, I tablespoonful of •onful of;lt and p.

Method. Melt thfl ] <•/. of butter in and, when 1 t ozs. of 11 inlil the

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panada, or paste, leaves the sides of the stewpan clean, spread it on a plate, and put it aside to cool. Remove the stalks of the mushrooms, skin and chop them coarsely; melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan, put in the mushrooms, cover, and let them steam in the butter for 10 minutes, then add the breadcrumbs, cream, seasoning to taste, and let the mixture cool. Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through the mincing machine, pound it well in a mortar with the panada, adding i oz. of butter, the cold white sauce, the remaining cream gradually, and the eggs one at a time. When quite smooth, season to taste, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Butter 10 or 12 large-sized timbale-moulds, line them with the meat farce, "or stuffing, make a well in the centre of each with the handle of a teaspoon, dipped in hot water to prevent the farce adhering to it, and fill with the mushroom puree. Cover the top of each timbale with a thin layer of farce, place them in a saute-pan, surround them with boiling water to half the depth of the moulds, cover with a greased paper, and cook for about 25 minutes or until the farce is firm. Turn out, mask with a good white sauce, Time. — From i£ to i| hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 10 to 12 timbales.

Note. — If preferred, the mixture may be cooked in one large mould. Cooked veal and ham may be used instead of the raw meat; in that case the cream should be omitted from the farce, and 4 ozs. of flour, i oz. of butter, and £ a pint of water used for the panada, instead of the quantities given above. 742.— LOIN OF VEAL, DAUBE STYLE. (Fr.— Carre de Veau a la Daube.) Ingredients. — The chump end of a loin of veal, forcemeat, No. 396, a few slices of bacon, i small onion sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i blade of mace, 10 peppercorns, i pint of veal stock or water, £ a pint of tomato sauce, No. 389, salt and pepper. Method. — Remove the bones, fill the cavity with forcemeat, and bind or skewer into a good shape. Boil the stock or water in a large stewpan, put in the meat, cover with slices of bacon, and add the onion, mace, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a good seasoning of salt. Simmer gently for 2$ hours, basting frequently, but do not add more stock or water until absolutely necessary to prevent the meat from burning. When ready, strain the liquor into a small stewpan, boil rapidly until reduced to a glaze, with which coat the meat thickly. Serve the tomato sauce separately.

Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 4d Seasonable at any 743.— LOIN OF VEAL, BAKED OR ROASTED.

(Fr.— Longe de Veau Farcie.) Ingredients. — 4 or 5 Ib. of loin of veal, a few slices of bacon, veal force-

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meat (see p. 281), £ of a pint of brown sauce, a little meat glaze, lemons.

Method. — Bone the veal, season the inside with salt and pepper, fill with forcemeat, and skewer or tie it in the form of a roll. Baste well with hot dripping, cover with a greased paper, and either bake or roast from 2 to 2± hours, basting frequently. Meanwhile boil the bones for stock for the brown sauce (see p. 233). Half an hour before serving remove the paper from the meat and brush it lightly over with the glaze, drain away all the fat in the tin, but leave the brown sediment. Pour the brown sauce into the tin, return to the oven to finish cooking, and baste frequently. (When economy is not an object, the veal should be basted with cream instead of brown sauce, the cream being afterwards slightly thickened, seasoned, and served with the meat). Roll the bacon, put on a skewer, and fry or bake until crisp, or it may be broiled before the fire, and cut into dice. Remove the meat to a hot i! garnish with rolls of bacon and cut lemon, or little piles of bacon dice and lemon. Strain the sauce, and serve it separately in a tureen. Time. — To cook the veal, 2 to 2$ hours. Average Cost, lod. to ud. Note. — The above recipe is equally applicable to a shoulder and fillet of veal; and a loin of veal is not necessarily boned; a little forcemeat may be rted. and the remainder made into small balls. The bone of the fillet trly always removed, and the cavity filled with forcemeat. 744.— LIVER SAUSAGES. (Fr.— Sausisson de Foie Ingredients. — i Ib. of calf's liver, $ of a Ib. of fat bacon, $ a Ib. of breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ^ of a teaspoonful of powdered thyme, £ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, £ of a poonful of grated nutmeg, i teaspoonful of salt, £ of a teaspoonful of pepper, 3 eggs, skins.

Method. — Chop the liver and bacon very finely, mix them together, and add the breadcrumbs and the rest of the dry ingredients. ^ in the eggs, and press the mixture into the skins, leaving room for the '!. tti t them aside for 5 or 6 hours, then prick well, fry in hot fat until well-browned, and serve either on toast or with mashed potato.

Time.— Altogether, 6 or 7 hours. Average Cost, is, 8d. Sufficient 745.— LIVER SAUSAGES. (Another Method).

Ingredients. 2 Ib. of calfs' liver, J of a Ib. of pickled pork or fat -cry finely-chopped, | a teaspoonful of powdered sage, salt and pepper, sausage si

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Method. — Wash and diy the liver, chop it finely, and pass it through a wire sieve. Chop the pork or bacon finely, mix it with the liver, add the onion, sage, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper. Mix well together, three-quarters fill the skins with the preparation, place in boiling water, and simmer gently for £ an hour. The sausages may be used fresh, but if preferred smoked, they should be hung for 2 or 3 days in the smoke of a peat or wood fire. The sausages may be eaten without further cooking, or, if preferred, they may be fried and served hot.

Time. — To boil, ^ an hour; to smoke, 2 or 3 days. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2S. 6d. Seasonable at any time.

746. -MINCED VEAL. (Fr.— Hachis de Veau.) Ingredients. — i|- Ib. of cold veal, i pint of white sauce (see Sauces), forcemeat balls, the grated rind of £ a lemon, i teaspoonful of lemonjuice, salt and pepper.

Method. — Remove all skin and gristle, cut the meat into very small pieces, but do not chop it. Make the white sauce as directed, add to it the lemon-rind and lemon-juice, season to taste, put in the meat, cover closely, and let it remain in the sauce for \ an hour WITHOUT BOILING. Serve on a hot dish, garnished with the forcemeat balls and slices of Time. — To prepare and cook, from i to \\ hours. Average Cost, is. pd. to 2S. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

THE CALF A SYMBOL OF DIVINE POWER. — Among the Egyptians the ox was regarded a symbol of the god Osiris, and was represented with a disc symbolical of the sun, one of the forms under which Osiris, the husband of Isis and father of Horus, and the source of all beneficent agencies to mankind, was represented. The sacred bull Apis was supposed to be animated with the soul of Osiris; special reverence being accorded to the Apis for this reason. From the Egyptians the Israelites adopted the worship of the calf, which incurred the displeasure of Jehovah, and drew down upon the people the stern denunciations of the prophets. It has been the subject of considerable controversy whether the Jews intended the golden calf and the calves of Jeroboam as the symbol of Osiris, or as a cherubic representation of the Elohim, the Almighty Intelligence which brought the Israelites out of Egypt. 747.— MINCED VEAL WITH MACARONI.

(Fr. — Hachis aux Macaroni.) Ingredients. — £ of a Ib. of cold roast veal finely-minced, 3 ozs. of ham finely-minced, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 4 ozs. of macaroni, 2 tablespoonfuls of good gravy, i large or 2 small eggs, butter, nutmeg, salt and pepper, gravy.

Method. — Mix the veal, ham and breadcrumbs together, add salt, pepper and grated nutmeg to taste, moisten with the gravy, and as much beaten egg as is necessary to bind the mixture together. Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender, but not broken, and arrange it at the bottom and sides of a well-buttered mould or basin in some simple form, such as trellis or stripes. Cut the remainder

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into short lengths, mix them with the meat preparation, and press the whole lightly into the mould or basin. Cover with a greased paper, steam gently for i hour, then carefully unmould and serve good gravy, previously made from veal bones and trimmings, separately. Time. — To steam, i hour. Average Cost, ul., in addition to the meat Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 748.-MINCED VEAL WITH POACHED EGGS.

(Fr.— Hachis aux CEufs poches.") Ingredients.— i i Ib. of cold veal, 6 poached eggs, i pint of st. \\atrr, i£ ozs. of butter, i| ozs. of flour, i small onion, $ a small «. 2 cloves, i blade of mace, the grated rind of \ a lemon, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method. — Remove tin- Nmes and break them into small pieces, trim off the brown out ie meat, put both bones and trimmings into a stewpan with the onion and a loves, m;. aid a little salt ami p<::Iy for a1 hours.

Tut the meat into \ >cs,and put t:

Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and cook until a nut-brown colour. Strain the stock from the bones, add it to the bintrr and flour, stir until it boils, pour half of it into another Id the i il to the remainder. Season to put in th' closely, and d; pan to the side of the stove for $ an hour. Care must be taken not to let the D must be occasionally stirred. Poach.nid trim thci: ace in the cei.

dish, place the jxuihed eggs round the base, and ser. of the brown sauce 111 a tui< Time. — About 2$ hours, altogether. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 6 persons. 749.— MIROTON OF VEAL. (Fr.-Miroton dc Veau.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast veal, cut into thin slices, | of a pint k, £ of an or. of butter, j of an oz. of flour, it, i nelvv, i of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon i umbs, i small <>• 1. salt and pc\ Method. Cut th.- meat into thin slices, ft] the stock from the mings (see Scotch Collops, No. 760. M< it the: •• onion 1: dd the fiV ""til • Add the prepared stock, stir until boiling, season to taste, and simmer gently for m minutes. Co*. h the inn. -ton is •. d with bio\\: n the top p' -klinp on«;ig of sail' i the

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top layer thickly with browned breadcrumbs, bake in a moderate oven from 15 to 20 minutes, then serve.

Time. — To bake, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. or 3d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at 750.-MOULDED MINCED VEAL. (See Gateau cf Cold Veal.) 751.— NECK OF VEAL, BRAISED. (Fr.— Carre de Veau braisse.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of the best end of the neck, i pint of white stock, 2 ozs. of flour, i oz. of butter, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, i tablespoonful of capers, 2 onions, 2 carrots, i very small turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, i blade of mace, salt and pepper, glaze. Method. — Saw the bones across, detach the short pieces of the rib bones, and fold the flap under, slice the vegetables, put them together with the bouquet-garni, mace, cloves, and i oz. of butter into a shallow stewpan, nearly cover the vegetables with stock, and add the remainder gradually to replace that which boils away. Place the veal on the bed of vegetables, cover with a greased paper, put on the lid, and cook gently for 3 hours. Meanwhile melt the remaining oz. of butter in a small stewpan, add the flour and fry gently until it acquires a nut-brown colour. When the meat is tender, remove it to a hot dish, and brush it over with glaze. Strain the liquor in the stewpan on to the butter and flour, stir until smooth, if necessary reduce with a little stock, add the capers, lemon-juice, season to taste, and serve separately in a tureen. Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 33. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 752.— NECK OF VEAL, STEWED. (Fr.— Carre de Veau etuve.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of neck of veal £ a pint of white stock, 2 or 3 rashers of bacon, crisply fried and cut into dice, 6 SMALL tomatoes, 2 ozs. of butter, £ an oz. of flour, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the grated rind of £ a lemon, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream (if liked), meat-glaze. Method. — Trim the meat, and when the bones are long saw them across and detach the rib bones. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat lightly on both sides, then add the lemon-rind, parsley, and a good seasoning of pepper, cover closely, and cook very gently for 2 or 23- hours. The meat must be well basted, and the stewpan stand on a cool part of the stove to avoid burning the butter. Meanwhile fry

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KKCIPKS FOR COOKINV. VEAL 463 or broil the bacon and cut it into dice; bake or broil the tomatoes until tender, but not too solt. Remove the meat from the stewpan, brush it lightly over with meat glaze, and keep it hot. Have ready the flour mixed smoothly with a little cold stock, and the remainder of the stock boiling in a stewpan, add the moistened flour to the stock, stir and boil for 5 minutes, then strain and add the butter in which the meat was cooked, the lemon-juice, and the cream. Season to taste, bring to the boil, and serve in a tureen. Garnish the dish alternately with little bunches of bacon and tomatoes. When economy is an object, dripping may be substituted for the butter, and the tomatoes and"meat glaze omitted.

Time. — From 2$ to 2$ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 753 POTTED HEAD. (See Collared Head.) 754.— POTTED VEAL.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of veal finely-chopped, $ of a Ib. of ham tmelychopped, butter, mace, cayenne, salt and pepper.

Method. -Place both veal and ham in a buttered jar, ad<: tuls of cold water, and tie a buttered paper over the mouth, t he jar in a saucepan or tin of boiling water, and cook gently for 3 hours either on the stove or in a moderately-cool oven. Pound the finely in a mortar, adding gradually the liquor in the jar, and as much o reduce the whole to a perfectly smooth paste. Season liberally with cayenne, salt and pepper, add mace to and pas rparation through a K rcss into small pots. <1 butter, and use as required.

Time. — To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. od. Seasonable 755.— PRESSED VEAL. (Fr.-Galantine de Veau.) Ingredients. A breast «>t veal, i large onion sliced, I carrot sliced, •-1, 2 or 3 strips of celery sliced, a bouquet-garni (^parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt.

Method.— Remove all bones and tendons, trim neatly, season: ally, roll up lightly, ami bind s«-:th tape. Put the bones and into a stewpan just large enough to contain the meat, add the prepared vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a good seasoning of salt. Place the meat on the top, add stock or water to the but not enough to touch the meat; cove; ised papt t; lid. Cook very gently for.<% meat l>< <1 let it 1.mil cold. Strain the stock, and

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on the following day boil it rapidly until reduced to a glaze. Trim the meat to a good shape, brush it over with glaze, and serve as a luncheon or breakfast dish.

Time. — To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to lod. per Ib. 756.— QUENELLES VEAL (COLD). (Fr.— Chaudfroid Quenelles de Veau.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of fillet of veal, i oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, £ of a pint of stock, 2 eggs, Senn's aromatic seasoning, pepper and salt, J pint white sauce, aspic jelly, 4 sheets French leaf gelatine. Method. — Blend the butter and flour in a stewpan, add the stock, cook until the mixture leaves the sides of the stewpan, and adheres together in a smooth panada, then put aside to cool. Mince the meat, and pound it with the eggs, a pinch of aromatic seasoning, pepper and salt, and the panada. Rub the mixture through a wire sieve. Shape the quenelles in a dessertspoon, poach until firm, and lay them on a sieve to get cold.

Add the French leaf gelatine and a tablespoonful of aspic jelly to the sauce, and when beginning to set coat the quenelles with the preparation. The quenelles may be decorated tastefully with sprigs of chervil, fancifully-cut chilies, or truffles. Serve on a border of aspic, with a nicely-seasoned salad of green peas in the centre. Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 10 quenelles.

757. —QUENELLES OF VEAL. (Fr.— Quenelles de Ingredients. — i Ib. of fillet of veal, £ of a pint of good stock, i oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 eggs, salt and pepper. Method. — Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and the stock, stir and cook until the mixture forms a compact mass round the bowl of the spoon, then put it aside to cool. Pass the veal 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, or chop it finely. Pound the panada (flour, butter and stock), and the meat together until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, season to taste, and pound all well together. Rub the mixture through a wire sieve, and then shape into quenelles. To do this it is necessary to use 2 dessertspoonfuls, or smaller spoons if making quenelles for soup. Dip one spoon into boiling water, fill it with the mixture, press it from the sides and raise it in the centre \\\\h a knife dipped in hot water, making it a nice oval shape; take another spoon, dip it into hot water, scoop the mixture carefully from the first spoon into the second, and place in a buttered saute-pan. When all the quenelles are in the pan, pour in sufficient boiling water to nearly

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cover them; have ready a sheet of greased paper, place it on the top oi the quenelles, and cook them gently for about £ an hour. Drain, arrange in a circle or straight row, and mask with a good white saw •< •. Time. — To make and cook, from i£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. 758.— RECHAUFFE OF VEAL. (Fr.— Rechauffe de Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast veal, forcemeat, No. v><), sipjuts of toast, i tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkin or capers, £ of a pint of water, J of an oz. of butter, J of an oz. of flour, i small onion, i blade of mace, lemon-juice, salt and pepjx-r, fat. Method. Cut the nu-at into thin slice*.;md put them aside. Plaee the bones and trimmings in a stewpan with the onion, mace, and a little salt and p<'pp< r, and cover with cold Nfefeft Simmer genily i i hour, then strain, ami add Btoi mak«- up the J of a pint. Melt the butt- t in a SteWpaft, a<l<l tin- Hour, stir an-l • until it acquires a pair-brown colour, then a<l<l the strained Stir until boiling, add the lemon-juice, season to ta^te. and put in the meat. Stand the stewpan where the contents will be kept just below simmering point, and let it remain for i hour, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile make the forcr-ir,- ected, form into small ball fry or bake in hot fat until crisp and brown. Place the meat on a hot dish, strain the sauce, season to taste, add the gherkin, and pour over the meat. Garnish with forcemeat balls, and ^ipp» 'is of toast Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, Od. or;d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 4 or Seasonable at any tune. 759.-RISSOLETTES OF VEAL. (Fr.— Rissolettes Ingredients. — 3 ozs. of lean cooked veal, i oz. of lean cooked ham or tongue, £ of a pint of white stock, i tablespoonful of cream, J an or. of flour, £ an oz. of butter, the finely-grated rind of £ a lemon, a pinch of salt and pepper, i egg, vermicelli, 4 ozs. of rough puffpaste, Method.— Chop the meat very finely; make a sauce with the flour. butter and stock, add to it the meat, lemon-rind and ma' ir over the fire until well mixed. Cool slightly, then add the, and turn the preparation on to a plate. Roll it out thinly jt must not be thicker than foolscap paper), cut it into rounds of i J or 2 inchc i, place a little of the meat mixture on one half, fold the other halt OVCT, making the • ttc half- moon or -nd press the edges of the

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paste together. Brush the rissolettes over with beaten egg, roll them in crushed vermicelli (crushed in the hand), and fry them until lightly browned in hot fat. Arrange them in a pyramidal form, on a folded serviette or dish-paper, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for a small dish.

760.— SCOTCH COLLOPS. (Fr.— Rechauffe de veau a FEccossaise.) Ingredients. — Cold roast veal, £ a pint of veal stock, rashers of bacon rolled and fried, f- of an oz. of butter, f- of an oz. of flour, i teaspoonful of lemon -juice, 2 or 3 thin strips of lemon-rind, i small onion, mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the meat into slices \ an inch thick, and trim them into oval or round pieces from 2 to 3 inches in size. Score them on both sides with a sharp knife, sprinkle them liberally with salt, pepper and powdered mace or nutmeg, and put aside. Place any bones and trimmings there may be in a stawpan with the onion, lemon-rind, a little mace or nutmeg, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover with cold water, simmer gently for i hour, then strain and add stock or water to make up the ^ pint. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook the mixture slowly until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then add the strained stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Meanwhile dip the collops in a little flour seasoned with salt and pepper, fry them lightly in a little hot butter or fat, then drain and arrange neatly on a hot dish. Add the lemon -juice to the prepared sauce, strain round the collops, garnish with the crisply-fried rolls of bacon, and serve.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient— Allow i Ib. for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. 761.— SCOTCH COLLOPS. (Another way.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of lean mutton (chops), i oz. of butter, \ a small onion, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, i tablespoonful of flour, stock, salt and pepper, croutons of bread, i gill of stock. Method. — Free the meat from bones and fat, and chop it or mince it evenly, but not too finely. Chop finely the onion, fry, i.e. blend, in the butter, put in the meat and cook quickly over the fire for a few minutes. Sprinkle in the flour, stir for a while and moisten with the stock, boil up, skim and cook gently for about £ an hour. Season to taste, add the chopped parsley. Dish up, and garnish with croutons of fried bread.

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Time. — About J of an hour. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. Suffi762.— SHOULDER OF VEAL BAKED. (Fr.— Epaule de Veau rotie.) Ingredients. — A shoulder of veal, a iew rashers of bacon (allow 2 to each person), forcemeat (see p. 281 ), salt, pepper, flour, fat for basting. Method. — Take out the bone (or order it to be sent in already boned). the forcemeat tightly inside the shoulder, and fasten the sides with small skewers. Have ready the meat tin, with a sui; quantity of boiling water in the lower tin, and in the upper 2 or 3 poonfuls of hot fat. Put in the meat, baste well, bake in a hot lor 10 or 15 minutes, then reduce the temperature by putting damper, drawing the fire away, or leaving open the oven door. ^Baste frequently and bake gently until the meat is done, the time required depending more upon the thickness of a joint than upon its weight; the rule of so many minutes to each Ib. serves as a rough, >t absolutely reliable guide in cooking. Meanwhile prepare the by boiling the bones removed from the meat (see Brown Gravy, p. 216), and a few minutes before the meat is ready to serve, roll up the rashers of bacon, put a skewer through them, and bake in the oven until crisp. To serve, remove the skewers from the meat, place it on a hot dish, garnish with the rolls of bacon, and, if liked, slices of lemon. A piece of boiled ham or bacon may be substituted for the fjf of bacon. Serve the gravy separately in a tureen. Time. — To bake a large shoulder, about 3 hours. Average Cost, from > iod. per Ib.

763. -SHOULDER OF VEAL, STEWED.

(Fr.— Epaule de Veau 6touffee.) Ingredients. — A small shoulder of veal, 12 ors. of sausage meat, 6 ozs. 1 forcemeat (see Forcemeats), a few slices of bacon, 2 lemons,.toes, 1 1 pints of white sauce (made of equal quantites of milk iquor), salt and pepper, 2 onions, 2 small carrots, i small turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), percorns.

Method.— Bone the veal, flatten it on the table, season well with salt pper, spread on half the sausage meat, cover with half the forceadd the remainder of the sausage meat, and cover with as before. Roll up tightly, bind with tape, put it with the ared vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns into boiling water, boil quickly for 10 minutes, add a little cold water to reduce the tcm; iiid sum:. gently until done (see notes on boiling,

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p. 404). Remove to a hot dish, pour a little sauce over, garnish with rolls of bacon, and slices of tomato and lemon, and serve the remainder of the sauce in a tureen.

Time. — Allow 25 to 30 minutes to each Ib. of veal Average Cost, 2S. exclusive of the meat.

THE FATTENING OF CALVES. — The method adopted for fattening young calves is very simple. Their principal article of diet is milk, with which they are freely supplied. The house or shed where the calves.ire kept is well ventilated, and the temperature so regulated that the extremes of heat and cold are avoided. A moderate amount of light only is admitted, and lumps of chalk, which calves are fond of licking, are placed within their reach. Thus fed and tended, at the end of 8 or 9 weeks the young animals, frequently attain the weight of 1 8 to 20 stone. 764. SWEETBREADS, STEWED. (See No. 272) 765.— SWEETBREADS (To Blanch.) (Fr.— Ris de In whatever form the sweetbreads may be subsequently dressed, they must be first blanched, to render them white and firm. One hour's soaking, at least, in cold water, is necessary to free them from blood, and they may with advantage be allowed to remain longer. They should then be put into a stewpan, covered with cold water, and brought slowly to the boil, and after 2 or 3 minutes' gentle cooking, may be either transferred to a basin of cold water and allowed to remain in it until cold, or well washed in cold water and pressed between 2 dishes until cold.

766.— SWEETBREAD FRIED. (Fr.— Fritot de Ris Ingredients. — i calf's heart sweetbread, i pint of white stock or water (when water is used, add a little onion, carrot, and turnip), i egg, breadcrumbs, i oz. of butter or frying-fat.

Method. — Blanch the sweetbread (see No. 765), then put it into a stewpan with the stock, add seasoning if necessary, and simmer gently for 40 minutes. Press between 2 plates until cold, then cut into si ires. brush over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry in the butler in a saute-pan, or in a deep pan of hot fat, until lightly browned. Drain well, and serve on a folded serviette, or dish paper, garnished with fried parsley.

Time. — 1£ hours, after the sweetbread is blanched. Average Cost, 33. 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons.

767.— SWEETBREADS, BRAISED. (Fr.— Ris de Veau, braisee.) Ingredients. — A pair of calf's sweetbreads, £ of a pint of stock, i small

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onion, i small carrot, £ a small turnip, i strip of celery, 6 peppercorns, a IxDuquet -garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), glaze, i croute of fried il, i a pint of good gravy or tomato sauce (see Sauces). Method. — Blanch the sweetbreads, (see No. 765) slice the veget. put them into a stewpan with the bouquet and peppercorns, nearly cover them with stock, adding more when required. Wrap the sweetbreads in a buttered paper, place them on the top of the vegetables, put on the H<!, and cook gently for J of an hour. In the meantime cut a block • ate) of bread to fit the dish, and not less than 2 inches in thickness. in hot fat, drain well, place the sweetbreads on the top of the bread, brush them over with glaze, pour round the gravy, or tomato sauce, and serve. If preferred, the dish may be garnished with little groups of green peas, haricots verts, or a macedoine (mixed garnish) of vegetables, either placed at the four corners, or at intervals round the »»f the croute.

Time. — About £ of an hour, after the sweetbreads are blanched. Average Cost, 58. to 73. ul. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. s AND CHOICE or VEAL.— The best veal and the largest supply it to be had from February end of July. It comes principally from the wtstem counties. In purchasing veal, special; >uld be given to its closeness of grain and the whiteness of the flesh, the latter being an unt consideration. Veal may be bought at all seasons of the year, and oi excellent quality, but except during the months when the supply is plentiful, it u higher in price. 768.-SWEETBREADS, CONTE STYLE. (Fr.-Ris de Veau a la Cont6.) Ingredients.— 2 heart -.<!s, larding bactv tongue, j large truffles, | a pint of stock, glaze. For the mircpoix (a foundation preparation of vegetables, herbs, and bacon, for brown soups, sauces, or for braised meats): a sliced onion, a si rot, a boiiqii- parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, a few small quenelles, $ of a pint of Madere, or demiiice (see Sauces).

Method. — Blanch and press the sweetbreads (see No. 765 ), lard on the best side with strips of bacon and tongue, and stud the centre of each with short strips of truffle inserted in small holes made with point of a knife. Line a saut6-pan with the mirepoix. nearly CO the vegetables with stock, adding more when required, lay the sweetds on the top, and cover with a buttered paper. Boil up, then transfer the saute-pan to a slow oven, cook gently for 45 mimr basting frequently during that time, and a few minutes before brush over with gla/e. Meanwhile, shape the quenelles in small t spoons (see No. 757), and poach them in a little stock. Cut a croute of bread to fit the dish, and i \\n in hot fat. Take up the in and skim t: reduce by rapid U.ilin-. then t demi-glaze sa;< e. frish tl la on the h with the q

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of truffle, pour a little of the sauce round the dish, and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat.

Time. — From i£ to i£ hours, after the sweetbreads are blanched. Average Cost, los. 6d. to 123. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. 769.— SWEETBREADS, FRIED, AND SPINACH.

(Fr.— Ris de Veau Frit aux Epinards.) Ingredients. — A pair of sweetbreads, £ pint of spinach puree, £ pint THICK Bechamel sauce, i egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, £ a pint Madere, Robert, or piquante sauce (see Sauces), frying-fat. Method. — Prepare and blanch the sweetbreads (see No. 765), boil them for 10 minutes in slightly salted water, and when cool cut them into slices ± of an inch in thickness. Have the Bechamel sauce ready and nearly cold; season each slice with salt and pepper, coat both sides with the sauce, and, if possible, put them on ice until the sauce sets. Now dip the slices into beaten egg, coat them very carefully with breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat. Dish in a circle on a thin border of mashed potato, fill the centre with the spinach puree (see Vegetables as to method of preparation), pour the sauce round the base of the dish, and serve.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient 770.— SWEETBREADS FRIED IN BATTER.

(Fr.— Ris de Veau frit a la Villeroi.) Ingredients. — A pair of sweetbreads, £ a pint of Bechamel sauce, £ a pint of tomato or piquante sauce (see Sauces), frying-fat. For the batter: 4 ozs. of flour, £ of a pint of tepid water, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, the whites of 2 eggs, salt.

Method. — Make a smooth batter of the flour, salad-oil, tepid water, and a little salt, and when ready to use add lightly the stiffly-whipped whites of eggs. Prepare, blanch, cook and coat the slices of sweetbread as directed in the preceding recipe. When the Bechamel sauce is set, dip the slices carefully into the batter, and fry them until goldenbrown in a deep pan of hot fat. Drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, pile them on a hot dish, and garnish with fried parsley. Serve the tomato, or piquante sauce in a sauce-boat.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 771.— SWEETBREADS WITH SUPREME SAUCE.

(Fr. — Ris de Veau a la Supreme.) Ingredients. — 2 heart sweetbreads, $ pint of supreme sauce (see '

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Sauces), i pint of white stock, 12 preserved mushrooms, croute of fried bread, salt and pepper, frying-fat.

Method. — Prepare and blanch the sweetbreads (see No. 765 ), put them into a stewpan with the stock, and a little sliced onion and carrot, unless the stock is sufficiently flavoured with these, cover with a buttered paper, and simmer gently for 40 minutes. Meanwhile, cut a croute of bread to fit the dish, and not less than 2 inches in depth, and fry it lightly in hot fat. Prepare the Supreme sauce as directed, cut the mushrooms into slices, and add them to it. Dish the sweetbreads on the croute of bread, and pour the sauce over. The dish may be garnished with little groups of haricots verts, green peas, or macedoine. Time. — About £ of an hour after the sweetbread is larded. Average Cost, 6s. to 8s. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

772.— SWEETBREADS WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.

(Fr.— Ris de Veau a 1'Italienne.) Ingredients. — 2 heart sweetbreads, larding bacon, £ a pint of Italionnc sauce (see Sauces), £ of a pint of stock, 12 small quenelles of veal or chicken (see No. 411), 12 preserved mushrooms, a croute of fried bread, salt and pepper, a mirepoix of i onion, i carrot, £ a turnip, a bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, frying-fat, glaze. Method. — Prepare, blanch and press the sweetbreads (see No. 765), and lard them with strips of bacon i£ inches long, and about £ of an inch wide. Slice the vegetables, put them into a stewpan with the bouquet-garni and peppercorns, nearly cover with stock, and add the remainder as that in the stewpan boils away. Place the sweetbreads on the top of the vegetables, cover with a buttered paper, and braise either on the stove or in the oven for 40 minutes, basting frequently. When ready, transfer to a baking-tin, and put into a hot oven for a few minutes, to brown and crisp the bacon. Have ready a croute of fried bread, cut to the size of the dish, and 2 inches or more in depth, place the sweetbreads on the top of it, and brush lightly over with glaze. Pour a little of the sauce round the dish, and serve the remainder separately. Garnish with the quenelles and the mushrooms, previously heated in a little of their own liquor, and serve. Time. — About i hour, after the sweetbreads are blanched. Average Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. 773.— SWEETBREADS, DUBARRY STYLE.

(Fr.—Ris de Veau a la Dubarry.) Ingredients. — 2 heart sweetbreads, larding bacon, slices of cooked ague, £ of a pint of Hollandaise sauce, £ of a pint of Madere sauce (see Sauces), £ a pint of stock, a mirepoix of sliced onion, i sliced carrot,

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% a sliced turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, i large cauliflower, salt and pepper.

Method. — Blanch, press, and braise the sweetbreads (see Nos. 765). Prepare the 2 sauces as directed, cook the cauliflower, divide it into small sprays, re-heat in the Hoilandaise sauce, and warm the slices of tongue between 2 plates over a saucepan of boiling water. Remove the sweetbreads from the stewpan, strain the liquor into a smaller pan, boil rapidly, and when sufficiently reduced add to it the Madere sauce, and season to taste. Cut the sweetbreads into slices, arrange them with alternate slices of tongue in a circle on a hot dish, strain the Madere sauce over, and pile the cauliflower in the centre. Serve hot.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 75. 6d. to 93. 6d. Sufficient for.HDUA2 HA 774.— SWEETBREAD, ESCALOPES OF. (Fr.— Escalopes de Ris de Veau.) Ingredients. — A pair of sweetbreads, \ pint of spinach puree, (see Vegetables), \ a pint of tomato sauce (see Sauces), £ a pint of stock I sliced onion, i sliced carrot, \ a sliced turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, meat glaze, i truffle, salt and pepper. Method. — Blanch the sweetbreads (see No. 765). Place the vegetables in a stewpan, with the sweetbreads on top, add the peppercorns, bouquet-garni, and stock, cover with a buttered paper and closefitting lid, and braise gently for 40 minutes (basting occasionally). Take them up, cut into neat slices, place them in a baking-tin, brush over with glaze, surround to half their depth with the stock in which they were cooked, and put them into a moderate oven for 10 minutes. Sprinkle each with a little chopped truffle, dish in a circle on a border of lightly-browned potato, fill the centre with the spinach puree, and pour the sauce round.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6s. to 8s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 775.— SWEETBREAD, ESCALOPES OF AND TOMATOES. (Fr.— Escalopes de Ris de Veau a la Tomate.) Ingredients. — A pair of sweetbreads, i Ib. of tomatoes, i dessertspoonful of cornflour or arrowroot, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a few drops of carmine or cochineal, £ a pint of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces), £ pint of spinach puree (see Vegetables), a little finely-chopped truffle, \ a pint of stock, vegetables, salt and pepper, sugar. Method. — Prepare and cook the sweetbreads as directed in the preccd-

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, and cut them into slices. Rub the tomatoes through a fine put the puree into a small stewpan, add a little salt and i. and when hot put in the cornflour (previously mixed smoothly with a little cold water), and stir until the puree thickens. Add to it the lemon-juice, a pinch of sugar, and either carmine or cochineal drop by drop until the desired colour is attained. Spread the puree quickly on one side of each escalop, sprinkle on a little truffle, arrange them in a circle on a border of mashed potato, fill the centre with the puree of spinach (green peas or haricots verts may bo substituted), and pour mel sauce round.

Time. About i hour. Average Cost, /s. 6d. to 95. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 perse >; 776. -VEAL, ESCALOPES OF, RUSSIAN STYLE.

(7'Y. — Escalopes de Veau d la Russe.") Ingredients. - 2 to 2\ Ib. of knu. eal, 4 ozs. of pork, 4 ozs. of <>/s. of ilaritied butter, 2 ozs. of anc!

of preserved mushrooms, i yolk of egg, i teaspoonful of mixed herbs, salt and pepper, breadcrumbs, \ of a pint of demi-glaze sauce, fried bread crun Method.— Cut the veal into even-sized scallops of j| or 2$ inches ml fry them in j ozs. of butter 0:> k fire until lightly ••m liu-htlv 1 dishes until <• m the ' the mushrooms. Cut the ml marrow into small pieces, pound them in a mortar until smooth, then add t!.

hen thoroughly incorporated rub tl/ Melt the remaining 07. of bur.psthi.'klv with the farce or stuftr; with 6 Tinkle with melted butter, then place them on a buttered ba'« Ifl a moderately-hot oven for about i; min'i;*-. Ke-heat the butter in a saule-pan. put in the mushrooms (p lew minutes, then add the demi uce, season to s, I>i>h bps m a in. le on a the ragout of mushrooms in the n-ntre.

Time.:. Average Cost, 4s. ^1. to;>. SufTlcient 777.— VEAL, FRICANDELLES OF. (/<>.— Fiicandeau Ingredients, i Ib. of 1- tmely -minced, ^ a Ib. of krs, | a p •.d trimnun-> ol the UK at "(see " S« •

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No. 760), £ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, salt and pepper, frying-fat, egg and breadcrumbs, milk, lemon. Method. — Soak the bread in a little milk. Squeeze as dry as possible, and beat out the lumps. Mix the veal, suet, lemon-rind, a good pinch of nutmeg, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper well together, stir in the eggs, and shape the mixture into balls about the size of a large walnut. Drop them into fast-boiling stock or seasoned water, cook for 6 minutes, then drain and dry well. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Make the sauce as directed, strain and return to the stewpan, season to taste, and add the balls. Stew gently for £ an hour, and serve garnished with sliced lemon. Time. — i hour, after the sauce is made. Average Cost, is. 8d. to 2S. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time. 778.— VEAL AU GRATIN. (Fr.— Hachis de Veau Ingredients. — £ of a Ib. of cold roast veal finely-minced, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, £ of a pint of stock, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, i small onion, mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper, breadcrumbs. Method. — Place any bones and trimmings there may be in a stewpan with the onion, a blade of mace or a little nutmeg, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover with cold water, simmer gently for i hour, then strain and add stock or water to make up the £ of a pint. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until it acquires a pale-brown colour, then add the strained stock. Stir until boiling, add the lemon-juice, season to taste, simmer gently for 20 minutes, and add to the meat. Fill well-buttered scallop shells with the preparation, cover it rather thickly with breadcrumbs, and add a few bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven until the surface is nicely-browned, then serve.

Time. — To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 3d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 779.— VEAL CAKE. (Fr.— Gateau de Veau.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of lean uncooked veal, £ a Ib. of bacon, 3 hardboiled eggs, i teaspoonful of fine-chopped parsley, the grated rind of i lemon, salt and pepper, £ of a pint of stock (about). Method. — Cut the veal and bacon into dice, cut the eggs into sections or slices, and arrange some of them in a pattern on the bottom of the buttered mould; mix the parsley, lemon-rind, flavourings and seasonings together. Cover the bottom of the mould with a thick layer of veal, on the top of it place a thin layer of bacon, add a few slices of egg, and sprinkle well with the seasoning. Repeat until the mould is full, pour in the warm stock, cover with a greased paper, place- the

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RECIPES FOR COOKINVi VEAL 475 mould in a tin containing water, and bake for about 3 hours in a slow oven. Add a little more hot stock as soon as "the mould is taken out of the oven. When cold, turn out of the mould, garnish with tufts of parsley, and serve.

Time. — To cook, about 3 hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient 780.— VEAL CUTLETS A LA MAINTENON.

(Fr.— Cotelettes de Veau a la Maintenon.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of fillet or neck of veal, butter or fat for fi £ of a pint of white stock, i oz. of butter, i oz. of Hour, i oz. of ham shredded, i shallot finely-chopped, i or 2 thin strips of lemonrind, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the veal into thin slices, which afterwards trim into neat cutlets. Fry these until lightly browned in hot fat or butter, and put them aside. Melt the ounce of butter in a stewpan, add the ham and shallot, toss over the fire for a few minutes, and sprinkle in the flour. Stir and cook slowly until a light-brown colour is obtained, add the stock and lemon-rind, and season to taste. Stir until boiling, simmer gently for 15 minutes, then put in the cutlets, and place the stewpan where the contents will be kept just below simmering point. Stew until tender, which may be ascertained by piercing the meat with a skewer, then take out the cutlets, strain the sauce, and put until cold. Take as many sheets of white paper as there are cutlet iy the corners, thus giving them something of the shape oi a h 1 brush them over on both sides with oil or clarified butter. Place a cutlet on each paper, cover with sauce, enfold and fasten securely, so that the sauce cannot escape. Broil over a gentle fire, or hake in a moderate oven, and serve in the paper cases. Time. — To stew the cutlets, i hour; to broil, from 12 to 15 mii Average Cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient— Allow 2 cutlets to each person. 781.— VEAL CHOPS. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Veau.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of loin of veal, a;<xi rolls of bacon, flour, r, salt an^l Method. — Cut the meat into chops, and trim them neatly, Run a i- through the rolls of bacon, fry them lightly, and keep hot until Sprinkle the chops with pepper, fry them in the bacon fat, in order that they may be thoi ><>ked without becoming too br rep the chops hot, drain off any fat that remains m the I little butter. When melted, sprinkle in a little flour,.md add $ of a pint of boiling water. Season to taste,

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boil up and strain. Arrange the chops on a hot dish, pour the gravy over, and garnish with the bacon.

Time. — To fry, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient Note. — For other methods of cooking veal chops, see " Haricot of Veal " and " Veal Ragout."

782.— VEAL CUTLETS. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Veau.) Ingredients. — i-J- Ib. of fillet or neck of veal, butter or fat for frying, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ of a teaspoonful of finely grated lemon-rind, salt and pepper, egg, breadcrumbs. Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, which afterwards trim into neat fillets. Beat the egg, mix with it the parsley, lemon-rind, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Brush the cutlets over with this preparation, coat them carefully with breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter or fat until nicely browned. Serve with either tomato or piquante sauce, or, when gravy is preferred, brown a little flour in the fat in the frying-pan, add a little salt and pepper, pour in a \ of a pint of hot water, boil up, and strain.

Time. — To fry, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2S. Sufficient for 783.— VEAL CUTLETS, FRENCH STYLE.

(Fr.— Cotelettes de Veau a la Fran<?aise.) Ingredients. — 5 or 6 bones of the best end of the neck of veal, 2 ozs. of butter, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped lemon-rind, \ teaspoonful of fine-powdered lemon-thyme, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, the yolks of 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper. Method. — Saw off the chine-bone and the upper part of the rib-bones, leaving the latter about 3 inches long. Divide into cutlets, flatten with a cutlet-bat, trim neatly, and season with salt and pepper. Melt \ an oz. of butter, add to it the herbs, parsley, lemon-rind, the yolks of eggs, and mix thoroughly. Dip each cutlet in this mixture, and coat with the breadcrumbs. Melt the remainder of the butter in a sauteor frying-pan, and fry the cutlets until nicely browned on both sides. Drain, dish in a circle, put a frill on each bone, and serve with tomato or demi-glace sauce.

Time. — To cook the cutlets from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the veal. Sufficient, allow one cutlet for each person. 784.— VEAL FLADEON.

Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of lean veal finely minced, \ of a Ib. of suet very finely chopped, £ of a pint of stock made from bones and trimmings

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RECIPES FOR COOKINT, VEAL of the meat, 3 eggs. 2 tablespoonluls of breadcrumbs, a good pinch of finely-grated lemon-rind, gravy or a little milk, nutmeg, salt and Method.— Mix the wal, suet and breadcrumb feogntber, add the lemon-rind, a little grated nutmeg and a good nig of salt and r. Stir in i egg, and as much gravy or milk as will thoroughly n the whole. Turn into a buttered piedish which it will half till, and bake for i hour in a moderate oven. I Vat the remaining 2 eggs well, add the J of a pint of stock, and season to taste. IVur over the preparation, bake until set, and serve in the dish. Time. — To bake, about i \ hours. Average Cost, is. to is. jd. Sufficient; nr 4 p rsons. Seasonable at any time.

785. -VEAL LOAF. (Fr.— Pain de Veau.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast i, J a IK of sausage 2 table -poonfuls of breadcrumbs, a little gravy or stock, i egg, per.

Method. -Mix the veal, sausage meat and breadcrumbs topseason liberally with salt and pepper, and add the < thoroughly, and add gravy or st< I h«.nmghly >rm into a short thick roll. htlv with HIVwhen economy is not an object, e< -g and breadcrumbs. Bake ', and i hot or cold. When ild be accomp by good gravy or some suitable s.

Time. 1 hour. Average Cost,, Mitiun to tin Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 786.— VEAL CUTLETS WITH OYSTERS.

(Fr.— Cotelettes de Veau aux Huitres."

Ingredients, -i IK ot i.il, 12 sauce oysters, i oz. of K;>oonful oi, ^ a pint >hallots,:

[>er.

Method. Cut the moal into - or 7 pieces of equal size ami: mess, flatten t! and turn them into a i. Melt the butter in a saut« jxui or trying pan, and CUtletS, and try tli«.i< ily boiling in. put in the ballots, and the butter in. r ^ an hour. Meanwhile he beards of the oyst \hite stock and add to the contents of the stewpan. 5 M the oysters and lemon-juice, and season

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ana serve. The oysters should remain in the hot sauce until they lose their flabbiness, but if overcooked they will become hard and indigestible.

Time. — About f hour. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 787.— VEAL, HAM AND LIVER PIE. Fr.— (Pate de Ingredients. — ^ a Ib. of cold roast veal finely-chopped, \ a Ib. of cold boiled liver finely-chopped, \ a Ib. of cooked ham finely-chopped, £ a Ib. of sausage meat, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, f a pint of good gravy made from bones and trimmings, puff paste, or rough puff, salt and pepper.

Method. — Pound each kind of meat separately, and season to taste. Place in a piedish in layers, sprinkling each layer with parsley, and add a little of the gravy. Cover with paste, bake in a moderate oven from 35 to 40 minutes, and pour the remainder of the gravy through the hole in the top of the pie. Serve either hot or cold. Time. — To bake, from 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost 25. to 23. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time. 788.— VEAL, LARDED AND ROAST. (Fr.— Poitrine de Veau roti.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of neck of veal, larding bacon, stock, i£ ozs. of butter, i^ ozs. of flour, i onion sliced, 2 carrots sliced, i small turnip sliced, 2 or 3 strips of celery sliced, bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt and pepper, fat for basting. Method. — Saw the bones across, remove the short ends and the skin, and fold the flap under. Lard the upper surface in close rows (see No. 737). Place the prepared vegetables in a stewpan, add the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, salt to taste, and stock to barely cover the vegetables. Lay the meat on the top, cover with a greased paper, and put on the lid, which must fit closely. Cook gently for 2 hours, adding more stock when necessary. Have ready a baking- tin contaming a Uttle hot dripping, put in the meat, baste, and bake gently for \ an hour, basting it well. Meanwhile melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook gently until the mixture acquires a nut-brown colour, then add £ of a pint of stock, including that from the stewpan in which the veal was braised. Stir until boiling, simmer gently for a few minutes, and season to taste. Serve the meat on a hot dish, and the sauce in a tureen. Time. — About 2| hours. Average Cost, 35. Sufficient for 6 or 7 per-

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789.- VEAL MARBLED.

Ingredients. — Remains of a cooked tongue, an equal quantity of cooked veal, a little stock which will jelly when cold, i hard-boiled egg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Chop the tongue and veal separately until very fine, and if possible, pound smoothly in a mortar. Season well with salt and pepper. Divide the egg into slices or small sections, and arrange them in some simple pattern on the bottom of a small mould or basin. Place the tongue and veal in the mould in irregularlyshaped pieces, moistening each layer with stock, and allowing it to run n, and thus divide the lumps of tongue and veal. Put aside until set, then turn out and use as a breakfast, luncheon or supper Time. — 2 hours to set. Average Cost, is. }d. with j Ib. of tongue. 790.— VEAL FINGERS. (/-V.-Tranchettes de Veau). Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of cold roast veal finely-minced, $ an oz. of butter, | an oz. of flour, $ of a pint of stock, $ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, ill onion, a pinch of mace or nutmeg, salt and pepper, a little finely-chopped parsley, fingers of fried or toasted bread. Method. the sauce as directed in " Veal au Gratin," No. 778. al, mace or nutmeg, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper well together, add the sauce, spread the mixture on the fi; ith parsley. Make thoroughly hot in the oven, and sc Time. — To re-heat, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 2d., in addition Sufficient for 8 or 10 ti: Seasonable at any time. 79 1. -VEAL OLIVES. (Fr. -Olives de Veau.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of fillet of veal, cut in 8 thin slices, an equal number of slices of bacon, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), i pint of brown -.nice, i| ozs. of butter, salt and pepper, oli Method. — The slices of meat and bacon should be about 4 inches;\d 3 inches wide. Place a slice of bacon on each piece of meat, i on a thin layer of forcemeat, roll up tightly, and fasten securely with twine. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the olives, and fry until lightly browned. Pour away the butter, add the brown sauce cover closely, and simmer gently from ij to 2 hours. \ remove ti unge the olives in 2 rows on a foundation potatoes, and strain the sauce over. Or, arrange them in a ished potatoes, and fill the uth puree Tirm- i cook, about 2J hours. Average Cost, 33. 4d. Sullicient. »r 6 pers<

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792.— VEAL OLIVES, FRENCH STYLE.

(Fr. — Olives de Veau a la Fran^aise.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of fillet of veal, a few strips of larding bacon, £ a Ib. of pork sausage meat, 2\ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i pint of good stock, i onion, i carrot, \ a small turnip, 2 strips of celery, 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), meat glaze, a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, i tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped gherkins, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices about 4 inches long and 3 inches wide, and lard them on one side with strips of bacon, i£ inches long and about | of an inch wide. On the side not larded spread a thin layer of sausage meat, roll up tightly, and fasten securely with twine. Melt \\ ozs. of butter in a stewpan, and fry the olives until the entire surface is lightly browned. When sufficiently fried, remove them to a plate, put in the peppercorns, cloves, bouquet-garni, the vegetables sliced, fry 10 minutes, then three quarters cover the vegetables with stock, and add the rest as that in the stewpan boils away. Place the olives on the top of the vegetables, cover with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and braise either on the stove or in the oven for nearly i hour. When tender, take them out of the stewpan, put them in a hot oven for a few minutes to brown and crisp the bacon, remove the strings, and brush over with glaze. Have ready the roux, or thickening, made by frying the remaining oz. of butter and the flour together until brown, strain the liquor from the stewpan on to it, stir and boil until smooth, season to taste, and simmer for a few minutes. Dish the olives in a straight row on a foundation of mashed potato; add the lemon-juice and gherkins to the sauce, season to taste, and pour the sauce round the dish.

Time. — From 2\ to 2\ hours. Average Cost, 33. Sufficient for 6 or 7 793.— VEAL OLIVES. (Fr.— Olives de Veau.) (Another way.) Ingredients. — An equal number of thin slices of cold veal and raw bacon, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), i£ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i small onion sliced, •$• a small carrot sliced, 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves.

Method. — Put the bones and trimmings of the meat into a stewpan, cover with cold water, and boil gently for at least 2 hours, then strain, and season to taste. Melt the butter in a stew-pan, fry the vegetables slightly, add the flour and cook until brown, then ^ it in the peppercorns, cloves, salt to taste, i pint of the stock, and stir until it boils. The slices of meat must be thin, about 4 inches long and 3 inches wide; spread on each a little forcemeat, roll >

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i.— Toulouse Pasty. 2.— Fillets of Beef. 3.— Beef Galantine. 41— Z«phires of Duck. 3.— Mutton Cutlets in Aspic. 6.~Saui< of VeaJ. 7.— Chartreuse of Pheasant. 8.— Curried Veal. 9.— Chicken Medallions. to.— Veal Stew.

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RECIPES FOR COOK INC, VEAL 481 tightly, wrap a thin slice of bacon round, and tic securely with string. Place the rolls on end in the stewpan, cover with a greased paper, and cook very gently for i£ hours. Remove the string, dish in two straight rows, and strain the sauce over.

Tjme. — 1|. to i£ hours, after the stock is made. Average Cost, is. for a dish of 12, exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 5 or 6 794. -VEAL OLIVE PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Veau.) Ingredient*. — An equal number of thin slices of cold veal and raw bacon, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), J a pint of good gravy, puff paste, or rough puff (see pastes), forcemeat balls, 2 hard-b< Method. — Boil the bones and trimmings down for gr the rolls as dire* '«<•«! in i ecipe, place them on end in a pi«-di*h, intersperse slices of hard-boiled egg and forcemeat 1 fried), and half fill the dish with well-seasoned gravy. Cover with paste, bake in a moderately hot rly i hour, and as soon as the pie is baked, pour in the rest of the gravy through the hole in the centre. Serve cither hot or cold.

Time.— To prepare and bake, about 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. 795. -VEAL PATTIES. (Fr.-Bouchees de Veau.) Ingredients. Pufl paste. For the mixture: 8 ozs. of lean cooked cooked ham, 3 or 4 tublcspoonfnls of rich 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, i tcaspoonful of lemon-juice, a pinch of nutmeg, the grated rind of $ a lemon, salt and pepper. Method. — Chop the veal and ham very finely, pound it in the mortar with the salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-rind, lemon-juice, moisten by degrees with the stock, and when perfectly smooth rub through a fine sieve. Stir in the cream, season to taste, and use. When the paste ly for the last turn, roll it out to about $ of an inch in thickness, and stamp mit 8 or grounds with a hot wet cntt< -.csindia: uith I". then take a cutter 2 or 3 sizes smaller, dip it into hoi;;. and make an incision in the centre of each.to halt the depth of the paste. Bake in a hot o\ i d.-ne remove the tops, scoop out the soft inside, Till with the nuxti.. They may be served either hot or cold; if the r, they should tirst l>c put into the oven to become thoroughly Time. I nun i to i| hours, at Average Cost, >i the meat. Sufficient for 8 or 9 patties.

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796.— VEAL AND HAM PATTIES. (Economical.) Ingredients. — 12 ozs. of cooked veal, 4 ozs. of either cooked or raw ham, about £ of a pint of stock or water, the grated rind of i lemon, a good pinch of nutmeg, i level teaspoonful of salt, i level saltspoonful of pepper, puff paste, rough puff (see pastes).

Method. — Cut the meat into small dice, add to it the salt, pepper, herbs, and moisten with the stock or water. Make the paste as directed, roll it out thinly, and stamp out with a cutter a little larger than the patty-pans as many rounds as possible, and put 12 aside to form the covers. Roll out the cuttings, stamp into rounds, place one in each patty-pan, fill with meat, moisten the edges with water, and put on the covers. Press the edges together, notch them at regular intervals, make a hole in the centre of the top, and decorate with leaves. Brush over with egg or milk, and bake for about 20 minutes in a moderately hot oven.

Time. — 20 minutes to bake. Average Cost, 2d. each. Sufficient for 12 large patties.

797.— VEAL AND HAM PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Veau.) Ingredients. — i£ Ib. of lean veal (fillet or cushion part), £ of a Ib. of cooked ham, 2 or 3 hard-boiled eggs, about £ a teaspoonful of mixed dried herbs, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little stock or water, seasoning, puff or rough puff paste (see pastes).

Method. — Cut the veal into neat slices, free from skin, also cut the ham into suitable slices. Arrange a layer of veal in a piedish, then a layer of ham, and next a layer of thin slices of hard-boiled egg. Season each layer with a very little salt and pepper, dried herbs and parsley. Continue thus until the dish is quite full. Pour in about i gill of stock, or, failing this, water. Cover with paste in the usual manner, decorate the centre tastefully with paste leaves, brush over with egg, and bake in a moderate oven for about i£ hours.

Time to make and cook, 2 hours. Average Cost, 33. Sufficient for 7 798.— VEAL AND HAM PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Veau.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of neck or breast of veal, £ of a Ib. of ham or bacon, 2 hard-boiled eggs, forcemeat balls, the grated rind of i lemon, a good pinch of ground mace, salt and pepper, puff paste, or rough puff (see pastes).

Method. — Cut the meat into pieces i£ inches square, put them into a fireproof dish (a jar placed in a saucepan of water may be substituted, season with salt and pepper, cover with cold water, and cook gently either in the oven or on the stove for 2 hours. Meanwhile cut the ham into narrow strips, the eggs into thin slices, make the forcemeat balls,

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and fry them lightly in a little hot dripping. Make the paste as directed, roll it out to a suitable thickness, invert the piedish in the centre of it, and cut round, leaving a margin of about J of an inch. Line tl. of the piedish with the trimmings (paste is always lighter when not re-rolled). The meat must be allowed to cool slightly, but then <> allow it to become quite cold, Cover the bottom of the piedish with meat, add a few strips of bacon and slices of egg, sprinkle lightly with salt, pepper, mace and lemon-rind, and intersperse with forcemeat balls. Repeat until the dish is full, piling the meat high in the centre, for which elevation the J of an inch margin of paste is allowed. Half fill the dish with gravy, put on the cover, moisten and press the edges together, make a hole in the centre of the top, decorate with 1 brush over with egg, and bake from 45 to 60 minutes in a mod< hot oven. As soon as the pie is baked add a little mot tsoned through the hole in the top, and when served hot, send a little ible in a tureen: the liquor in which the meat was It should provide this. When a pie is intended to be eaten cold, spaces should be left between the meat for the gravy to form i Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 33. 8d. Sufficient for 8 or 10 799.— VEAL POT PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Veau et Pommes de terrc.) Ingredients, j Ib. of either raw or cooked veal, J a Ib. of j»i pork, i Ib. of potatoes parboiled and thickly slued, stock made from bones and trimmings (see " Veal au Gratin " No. 778), puff paste, ami pep] Method.— Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, and cut the pork into thin small slices. Place the veal and pork in layers in a pirihsh. srasnmii^ each 1. allv with salt and pepper, and 3 fill the dish with K d dish, cook in a moderate oven for i£ hours, and cool slightly. When using cold meat this preliminary CO not necessary. Add stock to replace th potatoes on the top, and cover with paste. Bake in a moderatelv hot oven from 40 t«>.;; minutes, add more hot stock through the in the top. and serve (see " Veal and Ham Pie "). Time.— To bake, 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. gd. Sufficient or 7 persons. Seasonable at anv ti 800.— VEAL PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding de Veau.) Ingredients..• 11 >. a Ib. of raw ham, bacon, or pickled pork, snot pastMeth* ther small n- I, and put the

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bones and trimmings aside. Cut the ham, bacon or pork into narrow strips. Line a well-greased basin thinly with paste, put in the meat, interspersing strips of bacon, and seasoning liberally with salt and pepper. Nearly fill the basin with boiling water, put on a thin lid of paste, and cover with a greased paper (see " Beef Steak Pudding "). Place the basin in a steamer, or in a saucepan containing boiling water to half the depth of the basin, and add boiling water as that in the saucepan reduces. Cook for 3 hours, and serve with good gravy made from the bones and trimmings.

Time. — To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 2S. 6d. to 2S. pd. Sufficient 801.— VEAL RAGOUT. (Fr.— Ragout deVeau.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of neck, breast, or knuckle of veal, i£ ozs. of dripping, i£ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i onion cut into dice, i carrot cut into dice, ^ a small turnip cut into dice, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving. Heat the fat in a stewpan, fry the meat until lightly-browned, then drain off the fat. Cover the meat with hot water, add the vegetable trimmings, and keep the carrot, turnip and onion dice in water until required. Season with salt and pepper, cover with a close-fitting lid, and cook as slowly as possible for 2 hours, taking care to keep the water just at simmering point. Meanwhile heat the butter in another stewpan, add the flour, and stir and cook slowly until it acquires a pale-brown colour. When the meat is done, strain the liquor, add stock or water to make up | of a pint, and mix with the blended butter and flour. Stir until boiling, season to taste, add the meat, and simmer gently for £ an hour. Serve garnished with the vegetable dice, which should be boiled separately.

Time. — About 2| hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. to 2s. Sufficient for 802.— VEAL ROLLS WITH MIXED VEGETABLES.

(Fr. — Paupiettes de Veau a la Jardiniere.) Ingredients. — An equal number of thin slices of cooked veal and raw bacon, sausage meat, stock, i£ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i carrot, % a turnip, 20 very small button onions, 2 tablespoonfuls of peas, 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the meat into slices 3^ inches long and 2\ inches wide, and put them aside. Turn the carrot and turnip with a pea -shaped cutter, or cut them into small dice. Put the bones and trimmings of the meat into a stewpan, add the peppercorns and trimmings of carrot and turnip, cover with cold water, boil gently for at least 2 hours, then strain and season to taste. Melt the butter in a stewpan,

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add the flour, stir and cook slowly until brown, then add the stock, stir until boiling, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Spread a little sausage meat on each slice of veal, roll up lightly, enclose in thin slices ol bacon, and tie securely with string. Place the rolls on end in the stew pan, cover with a greased paper, put on a close-fitting lid, and cook gently for i hour, basting occasionally with the sauce. Remove the string, dish in two straight rows, strain the sauce round and garnish with groups of mixed vegetables, previously cooked s- until tender.

Time. — Altogether 3^ hours. Average Cost, one dish, about is. 6d. Sufllcient — Allow 2 rolls to each person. Seasonable at any time. 803.— VEAL ROLLS. (See Veal Olives.) 804.— VEAL SAUSAGES. (Fr. — Saucissons de Ingredients.— i lb. of lean veal, i Ib. of fat bacon, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped fresh sage, salt and pepper, sausage skins, fryinxfat.

Method. — Chop both veal and bacon finely, add the sage and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper. Press lightly into the skins, prick and fry in hot fat until nicely-br- If preferred, form into round cakes, co.it with seasoned flour or eggs and bivadi rumbs, and fry in h<>:

Time. — To fry, 10 minutes. Average Cost, about is. 6d. for this 805.— VEAU SAUTE A LA MARENGO. (Fr.— Filets de Veau a la Marengo.) Ingredients. — 1$ lb. of fillet or cushion of veal, £ of a pint of salad, oil, ^ of a pint of tomato sauce, £ of a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces), i y, i truffle, 8 preserved mushrooms, i shallot; <. hopped, poached eggs, fleurons (.or little half -moon shapes) of 1 putt-paste, salt and p<.

Method, Cut tin- meat into pieces about 2$ inches square. Make tin- oil hot in a M- wpan. fry the pieces ot inr.it cjnukly until lightly browned, and remove them as soon as they are fried. Put in the shallot, and fry slightly, then drain the oil into a smaller stt Cut the mushrooms and truffle into slices, add them to the shallots in the •}, put in the 2 sauces, the wine and meat, season to taste, cover closely, and cook gently in the oven or on the stove for about 40 minutes. Fry the eggs in the oil. and make them as plump ible. The llenion^ <»f putt::ild be stamped out in the four.,,ver \\ith ei:gt and baked in

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oven. Dish the meat in a pyramidal form, strain the sauce over, garnish with the sliced truffle, mushrooms, poached eggs, and neurons of puff-paste, and serve hot.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 33. o/l. to 45. Sufficient for 806.— VEAL SOUFFLE. (Fr.— Souffle de Veau.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of lean uncooked veal, £ of a pint of white sauce, £ of a pint of double cream, 2 ozs. of butter, 3 eggs, i small truffle, a pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, \ a pint of Bechamel or Supreme Method. — Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through the mincing machine, then pound it in a mortar, adding gradually the butter, white sauce (cold), and 3 yolks and i white of egg, one at a time. Season to taste, add a little nutmeg, and when the mixture is perfectly smooth rub it through a fine wire sieve. Whip the cream slightly, whisk the remaining 2 whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and mix lightly with the veal puree. Have ready a well-buttered plain mould, decorated or not, according to taste, with sliced or chopped truffles, put in the mixture, cover with a buttered paper, and steam gently for about i hour. Serve with the Bechamel or Supreme sauce round.

Time. — To prepare and cook, from if to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2S., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. 807.— VEAL, SMALL SOUFFLES OF. (Fr.— Petits Souffles de Veau a la Minute.) Ingredients. — £ of a Ib. of lean uncooked veal, 3 eggs, £ of a pint of cream, i truffle, salt and pepper, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of white sauce (see Sauces).

Method. — Butter some small china souffle cases. Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, then pound it in a mortar until smooth, adding the yolks of the eggs one at a time, and the cream gradually. Season to taste, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Whip the whites of the eggs stiffly, and stir them lightly into the meat puree. Put a teaspoonful of the white sauce into each souffle case, and £ fill with the meat preparation. Sprinkle on the top a little finely-chopped truffle, place the cases in a baking tin, cover with a buttered paper, and bake for 15 minutes in a moderately hot oven. Serve in the cases. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 10 cases.

808.— VEAL STEW (White). (Fr.— Blanquette de Ingredients. — 2 Ib, of fillet, neck, loin or breast, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs.

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of flour, 12 preserved mushrooms, 2 sliced onions, a bouquet-garni, (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, 2 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, i teaspoonful of lemon- juice, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into pieces about 2 inches square, put them into a stewpan with the onions, bouquet-garni and peppercorns, cover with cold water, add a little salt and the lemon-juice, bring to the boil, skim well, cover, and cook gently for 2 hours. Meanwhile cut the mushrooms into slices, and warm them in a little of their own liquor. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook for 10 minutes without browning. Remove the meat from the stewpan, strain i pint of the liquor on to the flour and butter, stir until it boils, add the mushrooms, season to taste, simmer for 10 minutes, then cool slightly. Beat the yolks of eggs and cream together, add them to the sauce, and stir by the side of the fire 2 or 3 minutes. Put in the meat, allow it to become thoroughly hot, without boiling, then season to taste, Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, 33 3d. to 35. 6d. with fillet. 809. -VEAL, STEWED. (Fr.-Ragout de Veau.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of the neck or breast oi veal, i pint of milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, i oz. of butter, i tablespooniul of cornflour or flour, j small onion, i blade of mace, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, place proof stewing pot, season with salt and pepper, add the onion and mace, pour in the milk, cover closely, and cook gently in the oven or on the stove for 2$ or 3 hours. A few minutes before serving, knead the butter and flour or cornflour smoothly together, divide im« > ill portions, and stir them into the milk. When flour is used, it must be allowed to cook ior at least 10 minutes. Put the meat on to a hot dish, add the cream to the sauce, season to taste, strain over the meat. The sauce is never perfectly white, therefore it is better to add i or 2 drops of caramel to make it a paK colour.

Time. — From 2^ to 3 hours. Average Cost, js. Sufficient for 4 or 5 per8io.-VEAL, STEWED../->.- Ragout de Veau.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of loin or neck of veal, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, £ a pint of shelled peas, £ of a pint each of turnip and carrot (scooped out i-es or cut into dice), i J ozs. of butter, i tablcspoonful of tomato sauce, i teaspoonful of lemon-jui. mace, a bouquet l>ay-leaf), pepper and Method. he meat into cutlets, and trim them neatly. Melt

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the butter in a stewpan, and fry the cutlets lightly on both sides. Add the bacon in slices, a few trimmings of turnip and carrot, the meat trimmings, mace, bouquet-garni, salt and pepper, and as much boiling stock or water as will -.over the whole. Stew gently for about 2^ hours, keeping the stewpan closely covered. Cook the vegetables separately, and drain them well. When done, remove the meat from the stewpan, strain the gravy, return it to the stewpan, add the bacon cut into dice tomato sauce, lemon-juice, prepared vegetables, and the meat. Season to taste, re-heat, and serve.

Time. — From 2f- to 3 hours. Average Cost, 35. Sufficient for 4 or 5 COW-POX, OR VARIOLA, the vaccine disease which appears on the teats of cows, accompanied with inflammation. The vesicles of a blue or livid hue contain a colourless, somewhat viscid, fluid, composed principally of bioplasm, which by the medium of vaccination communicates cow-pox to the human subject, and acts as a preventive against the more virulent forms of small pox. The practice of vaccination owes its origin to Dr. Jenner, a native of Berkeley, Gloucestershire, where he was born in 1749. After studying under the celebrated anatomist, John Hunter, Dr. Jenner settled in his native town. Observing that cows were subject to a certain infectious eruption of the teats, and that the persons who were engaged in milking such cattle escaped small-pox, or had it in a less virulent form, he made inquiries into the subject, the result being the introduction of vaccination into England in 1796.

THE CATTLE PLAGUE, OR RINDERPEST. — This terrible disease is of highly contagious and malignant type, attacking animals of the ox tribe, and usually proves fatal. The symptoms are characterized by great depression of the vital powers, frequent shivering, staggering gait, cold extremities, quick and short breathing, drooping head and reddened eyes, high temperature, the discharge of a foetid secretion from the mouth, nose, and eyes, and failure of the heart's action. The attack is generally of seven days' duration. The cattle plague originated in the Asiatic steppes — hence the name by which it is sometimes called, steppe-murrain — where millions of cattle are bred and pastured on the rich pasturage of the plains. Various remedies have been tried for curing the disease, but the only effectual method is " stamping out " the plague, by slaughtering fhe infected cattle, and prohibiting by an Order in Council the importation of animals from infected districts. It is probable that the disease known in the Middle Ages as "murrain," was identical with the rinderpest. It made its appearance in England in 1865, when nearly 300,000 cattle either died of the plague, or were slaughtered to prevent contagion.

811.— VEAL TENDONS, PALESTINE STYLE. (Fr.Tendrons de Veau a la Palestine.) Ingredients. — The thick end of a breast of veal, i quart of stock, I glass of sherry, i onion, i small carrot, \ a small turnip, a bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, £ a pint of Espagnole sauce (see Sauces). For the garnish: 6 small artichoke bottoms, £ a Ib. of Jerusalem artichokes, \ a pint of milk, £ an oz. of butter, the yolk of i egg, a few white breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of white sauce, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the tendons into pieces about 2 inches square, put them into a stewpan with the stock, wine, vegetables, herbs, peppercorns, cloves, and salt, cook gently until tender (from 3 to 4 hours), then remove carefully, and press between 2 dishes until cold. Strain the stock they were cooked in, return it to the saucepan, and boil rapidly to reduce. Wash and peel the Jerusalem artichokes, cut them into thick slices, boil until tender in milk and water, then

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MEAT ENTREES.

Kabbit Cutlrts. j. K.ibbit L.mlol.1:1, 1 Braised.

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Cold Chicken and Veal Timbales. 2. Souffles of Duck, with Cherry and Spinach. 3. Moulded Sweetbread, with Asparagus.

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drain, and rub through a fine sieve. Put the artichoke puree into a stfwpan with the butter, white sauce and yolk of egg, season to taste, and stir by the side of the fire until the mixture thickens. Warm the artichoke bottoms, fill them with the artichoke puree, shaping the mixture in the form of a dome, or pyramid, cover lightly with the idd a few small pieces of butter, and bake in a hot oven for 10 minutes. When the stock has boiled down to a very small quantity, add to it the brown sauce, boil, and reduce until the artichokes are ready for the oven, then put in the tendons to re When ready, dish in a circle, garnish the centre with the artichokes, pour the sauce round, and serve.

Note. — Spinach, green peas, or any other suitable vegetable may be served iiiMte;ul of artichokes.

Time. — 5 to 5* hours. Average Cost, 53. 6d. to 6s. 6d., exclusive of 8 1 2. -VEAL TENDONS. (Fr. Tendrons de Veau.) tendons of veal are the cartilaginous or gristly portions found •mity of the Ixmes towards the thick end of a breast i«t They may, of course, be dressed with the joint, except when it is r. or baked. The tendons must first be rendered perfectly tendd by <-ntle stewing, and afterwards may be dress* not be lx • ly. but as they are confined pally to the ti it of the breast, that part alone shouM be procured. The meat from which they are removed may be used for purposes (see Nos. 798, 799, 800, 801 and 809).

8 1 3. -VEAL TENDONS WITH VEGETABLES.

(Fr.— Tendrons de Veau a la Jardiniere.) Ingredients. — The thick half of a breast of veal, thin rashers of 1 J pint of white stock, ± an oz. of meat glaze, i carrot, i onion, $ a turnip, «'i bouquct-k'arni ^parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 strips of t »f mace, i oz. of butter, salt. For the punish: peas. Ivans, cauliflower, carrot, turnip, etc., ± pint of white >poonful of cream, salt and pej Method. — Cut the tendon into pieces about 2 inches square, and each piece in a thin slice <A bacon. Cut the vegetables into thick [nil them into a shallow stewpan or sautepan with the stock, 1 •eppercorns and mace, lay on the pieces of meat, cover >kvery gently for 2 or 3 hours. Kemo idons, r into a small stewpan, skim well, add the meat-glaze, put in the tendons, und.illow them to become thoroughly hot, with t ie of vep< may i all of those cnum \\ith the addition «

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other preferred. The cauliflower should be separated into small sprays, the beans cut into short lengths, the turnip and carrot either scooped out with a round cutter or cut into dice; all must be separately boiled and tender, but not broken. Add the cream to the white sauce, and when thoroughly hot, put in the macedoine of vegetables to reheat. Dish the tendons on a border of mashed potatoes, pour the sauce over them, and serve the jardiniere garnish in the centre. Time. — From 3 to 4 hours. Average Cost, 23. 3d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for a dish for 7 or 8 persons.

814.— VEAL TENDONS, FRIED. (Fr.— Tendrons de Veau Panees.) Ingredients. — The thick end of a breast of veal, i£ pints of stock 1 onion sliced, i carrot sliced, £ a turnip cut into small pieces, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, salt and pepper, tomato or Espagnole Method. — Remove the meat from the tendons, and divide them into pieces about 2 inches square. Put them into a stewpanwith the vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, stock and salt, and cook very gently for 4 hours. Remove them very carefully from the stewpan. press between two dishes until cold, then trim them if necessary, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Time. — About 5 hours. Average Cost, is. 8d., exclusive of the meat. 815.— VEAL TENDONS FRIED IN BATTER.

(Fr.— Tendrons de Veau a 1'Horly.) Ingredients. — The thick end of a breast of veal. For the marinade 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, i tablespoonful of vinegar, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper. For the batter: 2 ozs. of flour, i tablespoonful of salad oil, £ a gill of tepid water, the white of i egg, salt, frying-fat. Method. — Prepare and cook the tendons as directed in the preceding recipe; when cold, divide the squares into narrow strips, place them in a deep dish, pour over the marinade, and allow them to soak for at least i hour. Drain well, dip each piece in the batter, and fry in hot fat until lightly browned. Pile on a hot dish, garnish with fried parsley, and serve. The batter should be allowed to stand for some time before being used. The flour, salt, salad oil and water should be mixed smoothly together, and the stiffly- whipped white of egg added just before using.

Time. — 4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, from 2S. 6d. to 33. Sufficient for

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816.— VEAL WITH PARSLEY SAUCE. (Fr.— Veau a la Poulette.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fillet of veal, % of a pint of white sauce, No. 222, i oz. of butter, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i dessertspoonful of lemon -juice, i yolk of egg, salt and pepper. Method. — If the meat is not one compact piece, bind it into a good shape with tape. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat gently until the entire surface is lightly browned, then add the white sauce and seasoning to taste. Cover closely, simmer gently from 2 to 2\ hours, then take up the meat and keep it hot. Strain and return the sauce to the stewpan, add the parsley, lemon-juice, and yolk of egg, stir until the sauce thickens, then pour it over the veal, and serve. Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 35. Sufficient for $ or

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CHAPTER XVI 817.— BEEF A LA MODE. (Fr.— Bceuf a la Mode.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of rump of beef, larding bacon, i quart of stock, I glass of claret, i£ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, 2 carrots, i finelychopped small onion, 10 button onions, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), the juice of £ a lemon, 2 cloves, salt and pepper. Method. — Trim, bone and lard the meat, place it in a basin with the wine, lemon-juice, chopped onion, cloves, salt, pepper, and bouquetgarni, and let it stand for 2 hours, basting it frequently. Melt the butter in a stewpan, drain the beef, and fry it brown, and, at the same time, lightly fry the button onions. Remove both from the stewpan, put in the flour, and fry until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then add the stock and the wine-marinade in which the meat was soaked, and stir until boiling. Replace the meat and onions, season to taste, add the carrots thinly sliced, and cook gently for 2^ or 3 hours, stirring and skimming occasionally. When done, place on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and garnish with little groups of onions and carrot. Time. — 2^ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 33. to 33. 6d. Sufficient for 8 GOOD MEAT.— If the animal when slaughtered is in a state of perfect health, the meat adheres firmly to the bones. Beef of the best quality is of a deep-red colour, and if the animal has reached maturity and been well fed, the lean is intermixed with fat, which produces the mottled appearance characteristic of the finer qualities of beef. The juice, which is abundant, resembles claret in colour. The fat of the best beef is firm and wavy, and of the tint of the finest grass butter, bright in appearance, neither greasy nor friable to the touch, but moderately unctuous. 818.— BEEF, BAKED. (Fr.— BcEuf cuit au Four.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of cold roast beef, about 2 Ib. of mashed potatoes 2 small onions, 2 small carrots, i teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, i pint of gravy.

Method. — Remove the bones and the brown outside parts of the meat,

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RECIPES FOR COOKING BKKF 493 simmer them slowly for at least 2 hours, strain, season, and use as gravy. Cut the meat into thin small slices, cook the vegetables and cut them into very thin slices. Spread a thin layer of mashed potato on t hebottom of a pie-dish, on the top place a few slices of meat, add a little carrot and onion, sprinkle on some of the herbs, and season well with salt and pepper. Repeat until the dish is full, pour in as much gravy as the dish will hold, cover with the mashed potato, and bake in a moderate oven until the surface is well browTied. The potato should be smoothed and shaped by means of a knife to resemble as nearly as possible a paste crust; and the appearance may be further improved by brushing over the top with beaten egg, or a little milk. Serve the remainder of the gravy sr; Time. — To bake, about f of an hour. Average Cost, 4d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 4 or 5 perFr. bocuf). — The quality of beef is determined by variou!..iii-l thf f<>od upon which the.iniin.il h.i> I i K«-H«T.I| rule, is dry and tounh,;m •' r flavour. That of the <>x Mii-hing and digestible. The flesh v is also nutritions, but is less palatable than that of th< i The flesh of the small sized breeds is much sw. -t.r than tti.it • f tin larger kinds. It greatest perfection when the animal is about 4 years oM. 819.— BEEF CAKE. (Fr.— Gateau de Boeuf.) Ingredients. — I Ib. of cold roast beef, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, I small onion chopped finely, 2 ozs. of cooked ham or bacon, i teaspoonful chopped parsley, pepper and salt, i egg, I gill of stock, about 2 ozs. of pings, i oz. of butter.

Method. ( '.rease a plain mould or shallow cake tin, put in th« and turn the mould round until quite covered with the raspings, tin- butter, fry the- onion until slightly broun, mince the 1 bacon finely, and then mix all thf ingredients toget! ock if thf inixtu. dry. Then turn into the prepared mould, faivfully into shape, co\vr with a greased paper, and bake in a m<« oven for about 45 minutes. Turn out carefully, and pour a little ! sauce round.

Time. — To bake, about 45 minutes. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

820.— BEEF, COLLARED. (Fr.— Boeuf epice,) Ingredients. — 7 Ib. of thin end of the flank of beef, 2 ozs. of coarse 6 ozs. of salt, i oz. of saltpetre, i large handful of parsley minced, •••rtspoonf til of minced sage, a bunch of savoury herbs, $ a teaspoonful < >f pounded allspice; salt and pepper to t Method. — Choose tine t f, but not too fat; lay it in a dish, rub in the sugar, salt and saltpetre, and let it remain in the pickle for k or m days, turning and rubbing it every day. Then bone it. f all the grille and tlu m of the m-ide part, and sprinkle

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it thickly with parsley, herbs, seasoning, in the above proportions, taking care that the former are finely minced. Roll the meat up in a cloth as tightly as possible, bind it firmly with broad tape, and boil it gently for 6 hours. Immediately on taking it out of the pot, put it under a good weight, without undoing it, and let it remain until cold. Time. — 6 hours. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45. Seasonable at any Note. — During the time the beef is in pickle, it should be kept cool, and regularly rubbed and turned every day.

821.— BEEF COLLOPS. (See Scotch Collops.) 822.— BEEF CROQUETTES. (Fr.— Croquettes de Bceuf.) Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of lean cooked beef, £ a pint of gravy or stock, £ an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, a pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, about 4 ozs. of paste, 1 egg, vermicelli or breadcrumbs, frying-fat.

Method. — Chop the meat very finely. Heat the butter in a small stewpan, fry the onion slightly, stir in the flour, add the stock, and boil well. Now add the meat, parsley, and nutmeg, season to taste, and when well mixed turn on a plate to cool. Roll the paste out to the thickness of foolscap paper, cut it into rounds of i£ or 2 inches diameter, place a little of the meat mixture on one half, moisten the edges of the paste, fold the other half over, making the croquette half-moon or crescent shape, and press the edges of the paste together. Brush them over with beaten egg, roll them in crushed vermicelli or breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat.

Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, /d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for i dish.

823.— BEEF CROQUETTES. (Fr.—See Veal Croquettes.) 824.— BEEF GALANTINE. (Fr. -Galantine de Bceuf.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of lean beef, £ a Ib. of bacon, 6 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 2 eggs, £ of a pint of stock, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the beef and bacon into small pieces, add the breadcrumbs, a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, and mix well together. Beat the eggs, add to them the stock, and stir into the dry ingredients. Shape the mixture into a short thick roll, tie it in a

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buttered pudding cloth, boil gently in stock or water for 2 or 2\ hours, then press until cold. Before serving, brush over with dissolved moat ^Ui/r. and decorate with creamed butter, or aspic jelly. Time. — To cook, from 2 to 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. 825.— BEEF, HASHED. (Fr.— Hachis de Boeuf.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast beef cut into slices, i onion sliced, 2 ozs. of streaky bacon, i oz. of butter, £ of a pint of Spanish and Tomato sauces in equal proportions.

Method. — Melt the butter, add the bacon cut into dice, then the onions, and fry a light brown. Now lay in the slices of meat, pour the sauces over, and cook slowly for £ an hour, without boiling. Dish up neatly with croutes of bread fried in fat as garnish. Time. — About £ of an hour. Average Cost, is. od. to is. oxl. 826.— BEEF, HASHED. (Fr.— Hachis de Bceuf.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast beef cut into slices, i pint of stock, 1 1 ozs. of butter, i^ ozs. of beef dripping, i J ozs. of flour, i sliced onion, 1 small sliced carrot, £ a sliced turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper.

Method. -Trim off the brown outside parts of the meat, remove the bones, and break them into small pieces. Melt the dripping in a stewpan, put in the bones, trimmings of meat, bouquet-garni, and vegetables, fry until well browned, then drain off the fat. Cover with c< Id. add the peppercorns and a little salt, boil gently for at least 2 hours, then strain and remove the fat. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the flour, and stir over the fire until a brown roux is formed, when add i pint of the stock from the bones, and stir until boiling. Let the sauce simmer gently for 20 minutes, then add seasoning to taste, and when slightly cooled lay in the slices of meat, draw the sauceside, cover closely, and let it remain for about £ an hour, where the contents will be kept hot without boiling. Garnish with croutes of fried bread, or groups of turnips and carrot cut into dice or julienne strips, and boiled separately.

Time. — About i hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost, is. 4(1., 827.— BEEF, CURRIED. (Fr.— Kari de Bceuf.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of lean tender uncooked beef, i£ pints of stock or water, 2 ozs. of butter, i dessertspoonful of flour, i dessertspoonful of curry-powder, i teaspoonful of curry-paste, i sour apple, j

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small onions coarsely-chopped, i dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, 4 ozs. of rice.

Method. — Cut the meat into slices about £ an inch thick and i inch square. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat quickly and lightly, then take it out on to a plate, put in the onion, flour, and curry-powder, and fry gently for 10 minutes. Add the stock, curry-paste, apple sliced, and salt to taste, boil, replace the meat, cover closely, and cook gently for i£ hours. Boil the rice, drain and dry thoroughly. When the meat is done, remove it to a hot dish, season the sauce to taste, add the lemon- juice, and strain over the meat. The rice should be served separately.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 828.— BEEF FRITTERS. (Fr.— Beignets de Boeuf.) Ingredients. — J of a Ib. of cold roast beef, 6 ozs. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of oiled butter, £ of a pint of tepid water, the whites of 2 eggs, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, the rind of £ a lemon, a good pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, frying-fat.

Method. — Chop the meat finely. Mix the flour, tepid water and melted butter into a smooth batter, add to it the meat, herbs, lemon rind, nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, and lastly the stiffly- whipped whites of eggs. Have ready a deep pan of hot fat, drop in the mixture in tablespoonfuls, and fry until golden-brown. Drain well, dish in a pyramidal form on a folded napkin or dish-paper, and garnish with fried parsley. The mixture may be varied by the addition of a teaspoonful of powdered sage, and a tablespoonful of parboiled and finelychopped onion, instead of lemon-rind and nutmeg.

Time. — To prepare and cook, about i hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons, 829.— BEEF OLIVES. (Fr.— Olives de Bceuf.) Ingredients. — \\ Ib. of rump steak, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), £ of a pint of either Espagnole or brown sauce.

Method. — Remove all fat from the meat, cut it into very thin slices, about 4 inches long and 2 inches wide, and flatten them with a wet cutlet-bat or rolling pin. Prepare the forcemeat as directed, spread a little on each slice of meat, roll up tightly, and tie securely with twine. Have the brown sauce ready in a stewpan, bring it to boiling point, put in the olives, and simmer gently for about i hour. Remove the strings, arrange the olives in 2 rows on a. bed of mashed potato, and strain the sauce over.

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Time. — i hour to cook. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. 1033. Sufficient NOTE. — Sausage meat may be used instead of forcemeat in preparing this 830.-BEEF ROLLS OR OLIVES. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of rump steak, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), | of a pint of stock or water, i\ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i small onion sliced, a few slices of carrot, salt and pepper. Method. — Prepare, stuff, and bind the olives as in the preceding. Heat the butter in a stcwpan, fry the olives until their entire surface is lightly browned, then remove them from the stewpan. Now put in the carrot and onion, fry quickly for 3 or 4 minutes, then sprinkle in the flour, fry brown, pour in the stock, and stir until boiling. Rethe olives in the strwp.in, add salt and pepper, cover with a greased paper and the lid of the stewpan, and simmer slowly ior i£ hours, Remove il,.lish tlu- olives on a bed of mashed potato, -, and strain it over them.

Time. -Alxmt j hours. Average Cost, js. to js. 4d. Sufficient for 6 831.— BEEF, RIB BONES OF.

Ingredients. — Rib bones, i carrot, i turnip, i onion finely chopped, \ of a pint of good gravy, salt and pepper, mashed potato. Method. — The bones should have on them a slight covering of i Peel the carrot and turnip, scoop out small pea shapes with a > cutter, or, if more convenient, cut them into dice. Saw the into pieces 3 inches long, place them in a stewpan with the turnip, carrot and onion, add the gravy, and season to taste. Stew very gently until th !>les are tender, and serve piled within a border of mashed potato.

Time.— About J of an hour. Average Cost, exclusive of the bones, 4d. 832. -BEEFSTEAK, GRILLED Hngredients. — \\ Ib. of steak cut off the fillet, rump, sirloin or tenderloin, [ oz. of butter, salt and pepper.

Method, (.rilling: simple process in cookery, the sucr whuh depends almost entirely upon the fire being clear bright and oin smoke. A handful of salt \vill a-^ist in Clearing the fire;; -rinkled <>n the top.1 lew minutes before requu

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use. Before using the gridiron it should be heated and the bars well rubbed with paper, and afterwards with fat or suet, to prevent the meat sticking to them. The chief point in grilling is to quickly harden the outside of the meat, in order to keep in the flavour and goodness, and this result is achieved more quickly if the meat be brushed over with salad-oil or warm butter before grilling. The steak should be turned frequently, by means of steak-tongs, or failing these a fork, which must not, however, be thrust into the lean part of the meat to make holes through which the juices of the meat would escape. A steak cooked to perfection should be very dark on the outside, and the inside red and full of gravy. When done, spread the butter lightly on the surface, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve on a very hot dish. If liked, the dish may be garnished with watercress or scraped horseradish. Oyster sauce, grilled or baked tomatoes, or fried onions, are frequently served with beefsteak; they must always be cooked first, as the shortest possible time must be allowed to elapse between the steak leaving the grill and being served.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes, for steaks of average thickness. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. per Ib. Sufficient, for 4 persons. DIFFERENT SEASONS FOR BEEF. — The Scots breed of oxen is esteemed the first in quality. Each county has its particular season, and the London and other large markets are supplied by those counties where animals, from local circumstances, are in the best condition. Thus, the season in Norfolk and Suffolk, from whence the Scots come, begins about Christmas and ends about June, their place being then taken by grass fed oxen. A large quantity of most excellent beef is sent from Scotland, and some of the best London butchers are supplied from this source. 833.— BEEFSTEAK, FRIED.

Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of rump steak, salt and pepper, butter or fryingfat.

Method. — Although this method of cooking steaks is not to be recommended, it is often more convenient than grilling, and with proper care the tender juicy qualities of the steak may be preserved, but it is less easily digested, in consequence of the fat in which it is fried. Make the butter or fat hot in a frying-pan, have sufficient to barely cover the bottom of the pan, put in the steak, fry one side quickly, then turn and fry the other side. When the entire surface is browned and hardened the cooking should be done a little more slowly, to avoid burning the fat in the pan, the steak being repeatedly turned. The steak may be served with a little butter spread lightly on the surface, or with gravy. To make this, drain off all the fat, add a little boiling water to the sediment in the frying-pan, season with salt and pepper, boil up, skim, strain, and serve round the dish or separately in a sauce-boat.

Time. — From iotoi5 minutes. Average Cost, from is, 3d. to is.4dper Ib. Sufficient for 4 to 5 persons,

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834.— BEEFSTEAK AND FRIED POTATOES.

(Fr.— Bifteck aux Pommes de Terre Frites.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of rump steak, i£ ozs. of butter, i good teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, % a teaspoonful of lemon-juice cayenne, salt, 4 or 5 potatoes, frying-fat.

Method. — Knead the butter, parsley, lemon-juice, and a little cayenne together, spread the mixture smoothly on a plate, and put it aside, to become firm and cold. Peel the potatoes, cut them across into slices, and dry thoroughly in a cloth. Have ready a deep pan of fat, put the potatoes into a frying-basket, lower them into the fat, and cook until tender. Stand the basket and potatoes on a plate or baking sheet until the fat boils up again, then replace them in the pan, and fry for 2 or 3 minutes to make them crisp. Meanwhile, grill the steak over a clear bright fire (see p. 497), and stamp the maitrc d'hotel butter into rounds, by means of a small cutter. Serve the steak on a hot dish, garnished with the potatoes, with the pats of butter placed on the top of it.

Time. — 7 to 10 minutes to cook the steak, according to thickness. Average Cost, js. 6d. to 2s. lod. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. 835.— BEEFSTEAK PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Boeuf.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of beefsteak, i tablespoonful of flour, i level teaspoonful of salt, £ a teaspoonful of pepper, the yolk of an egg, puff or short crust paste.

Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, about 3 inches in 1 and width, but of no particular shape. Mix the flour, salt, and pepper together on a plate, dip the slices of meat in the mixture, and place them in a pie-dish, which should be sufficiently small to allow the meat to be well raised in the centre, and thus give to the pie a desirable plump appearance. Sprinkle the rest of the seasoning mixture be the layers of meat, and pour in enough boiling water to J fill the dish. Make the paste as directed, roll it out to a suitable thickness, invert a pie-dish of the same size as the one filled with meat, in the centre of the paste, and cut round, leaving a margin of about £ of an inch. Line the edge of the dish with the trimmings, for paste is always lighter when not re-rolled. Put on the cover, ease it well over the raised meat, for which purpose the | of an inch margin was allowed, moisten and press the edges together, and notch them at ir intervals. Make a hole in the centre of the top, decorate with a, and brush over with the yolk of egg. The pie must be 1 in a hot oven until the paste has risen and set, afterwards it must be looked more slowly, otherwise the paste will be over! Ix'foro the meat is done. Before serving, pour in through the

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5oo HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT hole in the top either a little beef gravy, or hot water seasoned with Time. — To bake the pie, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Note. — If preferred, the meat may be partially cooked before covering with paste. In which case it should be closely packed in a pie-dish or bakingdish, covered with an inverted dish or tin, and gently cooked in the oven for about i£ hours. A saucepan is not to be recommended for this preliminary process, for unless the meat is closely packed it is apt to curl up and lose its shape. The meat must be transferred to a cold pie-dish, and allowed to cool slightly before being covered with paste. 836.— BEEFSTEAK AND KIDNEY PIE. (Fr.~ Pate de Bceuf et de Rognon.) Ingredients. — The same as the preceding recipe, with the addition of 2 sheep's kidneys, or \ a Ib. of ox kidney.

Method. — Cut the kidney into thin slices across, place I on each slice of meat, roll up tightly, and put the rolls on end in the piedish. In other respects proceed as directed in the recipe for " Beefsteak Pie."

Time.— About 2 hours. Average Cost, 35. Sufficient for 6 or 7 837.— BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTER PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Boeuf aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — The same as the preceding recipe, substituting 2 dozen sauce oysters for the kidney.

Method. — Beard the oysters, and blanch the beards in the oyster liquor, which must be re-heated, seasoned, strained and added to the gravy in the pie just before serving. Place an oyster on each slice of meat, roll up tightly, and put the rolls on end in the piedish. See "Beefsteak Pie " for directions for making.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 45. 6d., Sufficient for 6 or 7 838.— BEEFSTEAK AND POTATO PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Bceuf et de Pommes de Terre.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of beefsteak, potatoes to fill the dish, i small onion parboiled and finely-chopped, i tablespoonful of flour, i teaspoon ful of salt, £ a teaspoonful of pepper, short crust paste. Method. — Peel the potatoes, and cut them into thick slices. Cut the meat into thin slices, about 2 inches long and an inch wide. Mix

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RECIPES FOR COOKING HHK1 50!

the flour, salt and pepper together on a plate, dip the slices of meat in the mixture, and roll them up tightly. Line the bottom of the piedish with slices of potato, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with rolls of meat, and add a little onion, but use it very sparingly unless the flavour is much liked. Repeat until the dish is full, add boiling water to £ fill the dish, and cover with paste (see PastesX Bake hours in a moderately hot oven, and, before serving, pour a little hot beef gravy, or hot water seasoned with salt and pepper, through the hole in the top.

Time. — To bake, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2S. to 2S. 2d. 839.— BEEF AU GRATIN. (Fr.— Bceuf au Gratin.N Ingredients. — } of a Ib. of cold beef, very finely minced, i oz. of butter pint of stock, i small Spanish onion sliced, i small onion, a !• A tticts <>t carrot, a l>ouquet -garni (parsley, thyme, bay lea t. salt and pepper, breadcrumbs.

Method. — Break up the bones, put them into a stewpan, add the trimmings off the meat, the small onion, bouquet-garni, carrot, and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cover with cold water, simmer gently for i hour, then strain arid add stock or water to make up | of a pint. Melt the butter in a saucepan, fry the Spanish onion until lightlybrowned, then add the flour and stir and cook slowly until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Put in the stock, stir until boiling, season to jo minutes, then strain and add to the meat.

Fill well -buttered scallop shells with the preparation, cover rather thickly with breadcrumbs, and add a few bits of butter. Kike in a modi-rate ovi-n until the surface is nicely browned, then serve. Time. — To bake, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. 840.— BEEFSTEAK PUDDING. (Fr. — Ponding de Boeuf a I'Anglaise.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of beefsteak, i tablcspoonful of flour, i •onful of salt, £ a teaspoonful of pepper, i Ib. of suet paste. Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, about 3 inches in length and width, but not necessarily uniform in shape. Mix the flour, salt and: together on a plate, and dip each slice in the mixture. Make the paste as directed, cut off about ^ of it, and put it aside for the lid, roll out the remainder to the size of the basin, which must be prc\vell greased. Line the basin with the paste, put in the meat, sprinkle the rest of the seasoning mixture between the layers, and

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leave spaces to admit water, thus preventing the pudding becoming too dry. Three-quarters fill the basin with boiling water, which extracts less of the juices of the meat than cold water, put on the cover, and moisten and seal the edges. If the pudding is to be boiled, tie over a scalded and floured pudding cloth. If steamed, cover with a greased paper. Let the water be quite boiling, put in the pudding, and boil for 3^ hours, or steam for 4 hours. Time. — From 4 to 4^ hours to cook. Average Cost, 2s. 4d. Sufficient 841.— BEEFSTEAK AND KIDNEY PUDDING.

(Fr. — Pouding de Bceuf et de Rognon.) Ingredients. — The same as in the preceding recipe, with the addition of 2 sheep's kidneys, or £ a Ib. of ox kidney.

Method. — Cut the kidney into thin slices 3 inches long and 2 inches wide, dip them in the seasoning mixture, place one on each slice of meat, roll up tightly, and place the rolls on end in the basin. In other respects, proceed as directed in the recipe for " Beefsteak Pudding." Time. — 4 to 4^ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 842,-BEEF PALATES, TO DRESS. (See Ox Palates 843.— BEEF QUENELLES EN CHAUDFROID.

(Fr. — Quenelles de Bceuf en Chaudfroid.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of lean beefsteak, £ of a pint of Espagnole sauce, J of a pint of Tomato sauce (see Sauces), £ of a pint of aspic jelly, (see Aspic), £ an oz. of leaf gelatine, 2 eggs, 2 olives, 2 anchovies, salt and pepper. For the panada T oz. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, £ of a pint of stock. For the garnish, hard-boiled white of egg, coarselychopped aspic jelly, and salad.

Method. — Make the quenelles according to recipe for veal quenelles, pounding the fillets of anchovy and the stoned olives with the meat. Shape and poach the quenelles, and, when cold, coat 6 of them with the Espagnole sauce, in which 4 or 5 sheets of gelatine have been dissolved, and 6 with tomato sauce, which must also be stiffened with gelatine. Decorate the quenelles with small, fancifully-cut pieces of white of egg, and pour over them the nearly cold liquid aspic jelly. Arrange the quenelles on a bed of crisp salad, alternating the colours, intersperse and garnish with small tufts of endive and chopped aspic jelly, and serve cold.

Time. — 2 or 3 hours. Average Cost, ^s. Sufficient for a dish of 12 quenelles.

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844.-BEEF, PICKLE FOR.

Ingredients. — 4 quarts of cold water, i Ib. of common salt, 6 ozs. of brown sugar, £ oi an oz. of saltpetre.

Method. — Boil the above ingredients together for 10 minutes, skimming frequently. Strain into an earthenware vessel; when cold, put in the meat, and let it remain in the pickle for 10 days. If not completely immersed, it must be turned every day. 845.— BEEF, PRESSED.

Ingredients. — Brisket of beef salted according to recipe 844, i onion, i carrot, £ a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, glaze.

Method. — Wash the beef well in cold water, put it into a saucepan with sufficient warm water to cover it, boil up, skim well, add the prepared and sliced vegetables, bouquet-garni, and peppercorns, and simmer gently until the bones can be easily removed. Take the meat out of the saucepan, and having removed the bones, press it between 2 boards or dishes until cold. Brush over with glaze before 846.— BEEF, DRY PICKLE FOR.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of common salt, 2 ozs. of brown sugar, $ oi an oz. of saltpetre, £ a teaspoonful of ground black pepper. Method. — Pound the above ingredients in a mortar until reduced to a fine powder. Rub them well into the meat, which must be turned and rubbed every day for 7 or 8 days, or until it is sufficiently salt. Note. — Before applying dry pickling or salting ingredients, it is a to rub the meat all over with common salt, and allow it to drain for 24 hours. 847.— BEEF, SPICED.

Ingredients. — 10 or 12 Ib. of pickled beef (see recipe No. 844), i dessertspoonful of black pepper, £ a teaspoonful of ginger, i saltspoonful of powdered cloves, i saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, £ a salt spoonful of ground mace, i glass of claret or port wine. Method. — Drain the beef from the pickle, mix together the above ingredients (except the wine), and sprinkle them over the entire surface of the meat, which must then be rolled, bound, and skewered into a good shape. Put the meat into an earthenware stewpot with a lid, pour over it the wine, cover the top of the vessel with 2 or 3 thicknesses of greased paper, and put on the lid. As no other liquid than the wine is added, it is absolutely necessary that the steam generated should be kept within the vessel, and for this purpose the lid is frequently ah a paste of flour and water. The meat should be cooked

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slowly in the oven for about 4 hours, and then pressed between 2 boards or dishes until cold.

848.— BEEF, SPICED. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 10 or 12 Ib. of thin flank of beef, \ an oz. of saltpetre, £ an oz. of bay-salt, \ of an oz. of black pepper, \ of an oz. of powdered allspice, £ a teaspoonful of ground ginger, £ of a teaspoonful of ground cloves, £ of a teaspoonful of ground mace, 3 ozs. of common salt, 3 ozs. of brown sugar.

Method. — Remove any bones, skin, and gristle, and rub the beef well with the bay-salt and saltpetre, previously reduced to a powder and mixed together. On the following day mix the pepper, allspice, ginger, cloves and mace together, and rub them well into the meat. Add the common salt and sugar to the brine in the vessel, turn and baste the meat for a fortnight, then wash it in cold water, roll and bind securely with string, and boil in the usual manner. The aitchbone, round, or any other part may be spiced instead of the flank, and the time allowed lengthened or shortened to suit individual taste. BARON OF BEEF. — The name given to two sirloins not cut asunder. It was a favourite dish with our ancestors, and is still served at banquets of a special character. 849. — BEEF SAUSAGES. (Fr. — Saucissons de Bosuf.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of lean beef, i Ib. of beef suet, £ of a teaspoonful of powdered allspice, salt and pepper, sausage-skins, frying-fat. Method. — Chop both beef and suet as finely as possible, add the allspice, salt and pepper to taste, and mix well. Press the mixture lightly into the prepared skins, prick well, and fry in hot fat until cooked and well-browned. When sausage skins are not available, the mixture may be shaped into small cakes, which should be floured before frying. Time. — To fry, 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. 850.- BEEF, HUNG, TO PREPARE.

Ingredients. — To a piece of meat weighing from 12 to 16 Ib. allow \ a Ib. of bay-salt, £ a Ib. of coarse brown sugar, i oz. of saltpetre, £ an oz. of allspice, £ an oz. of peppercorns.

Method. — The meat should be hung in a cool dry place as long as is consistent with safety to make it tender, but it must not be allowed to decompose in the least. Pound the above ingredients in a mortar until reduced to a powder, and when the meat is ready, rub the entire surface with the preparation, going carefully between the muscles and under the flaps of the meat. Let it be turned every morning for 14 days; at the end of that time roll it tightly in a cloth, and hang ft in a warm (not hot ) dry place for 3 weeks. When a smoky flavour is desired, the beef should be hung where it would receive the smoke,

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BEEF ENTREES.

i. Fillets of Beef (Parisienne). 2. Fillets of Beef (Pompadour). 3. Fillets of Beef (Vien noise).

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I. Sweetbreads in Aspic Border. 2. Beef Roll, or Galantine. 3. Curried Beef and Rice.

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but not the heat, from a wood fire. Meat treated in this manner may be kept for a long time.

The pickle, after being boiled and well skimmed, may be used again. 851.— BEEF, BOILED. (Fr.— Bceuf Bouilli.) Ingredients. — Salt beef, turnips, carrots, onions, peppercorns, bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), suet dumplings, if liked. Method. — The aitchbone, round, and brisket are all suitable for boi1ing. In boiling meat a certain proportion of the nutritive qualiti(S escape into the water, and the liquor should therefore be utilized for soup, when it is not too salt for the purpose. With this end in the liquor should be reduced to the smallest possible quantity by using a boiling-pot just large enough to contain the joint, with barely sufficient water to cover it. The meat must l>c skewered, or bound with tape into a compact form. The water in which it is immersed should be warm unless the meat bo very salt, then cold water is IK <. to extract some of the salt (see Notes on Boiling Meat, p. 406). In either case, it should be heated gradually to boiling point, and well skimmed. With a joint weighing from 10 to 14 lb., an allowance should be made of 2 or 3 medium-sized onions, 2 large or 4 small carrots, i large or 2 small turnips, and 12 peppercorns. The onions should be kept whole, the turnips cut in thick slices, and the carrots lengthwise into j or 4 pieces. They should be added after the liquor has well skimmed. When suet dumplings form part of the dish, they should be put into the liquor £ an hour In: ing. the liquor bein- previously brought to the boil. To serve, replace the tapes and ske\\vr> with one or 2 silver sk >ur some of the liquor round the dish, and garnish with the VCL Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes to each lb. (see p. 490). Average Cost, 8d. to lod. per lb. Seasonable in winter.

\. TION or SALT ON MEAT.— Salt when applird to meat, extracts the juices in l.irp- quantities. The salt, and water-. a saturated solution or brine, which is absorU'd into the f the meat, and being strongly antiseptic preserves it from putrefa. tion. In add: the fibres of the muscles, and excludes the air from th< • at. The as: n of saltpetre, or nr re.it«>r than that of common salt, an'l if iiM-d too fredv n-ndrrs the meat to which it is applied very hard. In small jju.ii.' - the antiseptic action of salt, and preserves the colour o: h the action ol salt -TOW Salt and saltpetre preserve the fibre of meat from drrav. I. tit deprive it to a considerable degree of the nutritive juices; these antiseptics should, therefore, be used in moderation Soyer's Recipe for Preserving the Gravy in Salt Meat, when it is to he served cold. Fill j tubs with cold water, into whi< h throw a few pounds of rough ice; when the me.it is done, put it into one of the tubs. let it remain i minute, then take it out, and put it into the other tub. Fill the first tub again with water, and continue this process for about 2O minutes; then set it upon a dish, and let it remain until •old. When cut, the fat will be as white as possible, and the of the gravy will have been saved. If there is no ice, spring water will answer the same purpose, but will require to be more frctly changed.

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852.— BEEF FILLETS, MIGNONS, NOISETTES, TOURNEDOS and GRENADINES.

A fillet of beef is the undercut of a sirloin, and its weight varies from 7 Ib. to 1 1 Ib. Only a part of it can be cut into the small round pieces known respectively as fillets, mignons, noisettes, tournedos and grenadines. As a rule mignons are cut rather thin and small, and tournedos sometimes slightly oval, but otherwise the varieties enumerated are identical except in name, and any directions given for dressing one variety is applicable to all. In the Metropolis the usual charge for fillet of beef is is. 2d. per Ib. As nearly the whole of it can be utilized, when sliced for grilling, it is almost as economical as many lower-priced joints which contain a large amount of bone; but only a part of it can be used for fillets, and they are therefore expensive. The lean parts, which are too small to cut into fillets, maybe made into a pie, pudding, sausages, or " Filets de Bceuf Viennoise," No. 882; it would be a waste of material to put meat of such good quality into the stock-pot. The fillets should always be cut across the grain of the meat, they are usually from 2 inches to 2^- inches across, and £ an inch to | of an inch in thickness.

853.— BEEF FRIZZLED.

Ingredients. — Slices of cold meat, fat of beef, cold potatoes, i finely chopped onion, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cook some pieces of fat very slowly until as much liquid fat as is required is obtained, then strain and return to the frying-pan. Make quite hot, put in the meat, fry quickly until lightly browned on both sides, then remove and keep hot. Put in the onion, fry until nicely-browned, then add the potatoes, and season carefully with salt and pepper. Press them well down in the pan, fry until well browned, then turn and fry the other side. Arrange on a hot dish, place the meat on the top, and serve with a little gravy.

Time. — About 25 minutes.

854.— BEEF GOBBETS.

Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of lean tender beef, 2 tablespoonfuls of rice, i small carrot shredded, \ a small turnip shredded, i strip of celery shredded, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, i blade of mace, sippets of hot buttered toast. Method. — Cut the meat into small dice, put into a stewpan with just sufficient hot water to cover, and simmer very gently for 40 minutes. Wash and drain the rice, and now add it, with the carrot, turnip and celery, to the contents of the stewpan. Tie the bouquetgarni, peppercorns, cloves and mace in muslin, place in the stewpan, add boiling water to barely cover the whole, and salt to taste. Con-

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tinue to cook slowly for 40 minutes longer, adding more water if necessary. Remove the muslin and its contents, and serve the gobbets on the sippets of toast, which must be previously arranged on a hot Time. — About i hour 20 minutes, to stew the beef. Average Cost, 1. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time. 855.— BEEF GOBBETS. (Another Way.) Ingredients. — i *lb. of lean tender beef, \\ ozs. of butter, i shallot finely-chopped, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i dessertspoonful of mushroom ketchup, walnut liquor or some sharp sauce, breadcrumbs, ^ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, nutmeg, Method.— Cut the meat into small dice, and sprinkle rather liberally with grated nutmeg, lemon-rind, salt and pepper. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat until lightly browned, then season and sprinkle over the shallot and parsley, and cook a few minutes longer. Cover with gravy, stock or water, stew as gently as possible for i hour and add the ketchup. Turn into a buttered baking-dish, cover with breadcrumbs highly seasoned with salt and pepper, and add a few bits of butter. Bake in a moderate oven until nicely browned, and serve in the dish with some suitable sauce. Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 856.— BRISKET OF BEEF. (Fr.— Poitrine de Bceuf a la Flamande.) Ingredients. — 6 Ib. of brisket of beef, slices of bacon, 2 carrots, i onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leat), 2 cloves, i blade of mace, £ of a teaspoonful of allspice, 10 peppercorns, salt and pepper, i pint of brown sauce, Xo. 233, stock or water.

Method. — Cover the bottom of a stewpan with slices of bacon, put in the meat, lay slices of bacon on the top of it, and add the bouquetgarni, cloves, mace, allspice, peppercorns and a few vegetable trimmings. Nearly cover with stock or water, cook very gently for 5 or 6 hours, adding more stock or water to replace that which boils away, and taking care to keep the stewpan closely covered. Make the brown sauce as directed, using the stock from the stewpan when none other is available. Cut the vegetable into dice, cook in stock or water until tender, and add them to the sauce. The meat should be glased, garnished with a little vegetable, and served on a hot dish.

Time. — 5 or 6 hours. Average Cost, 45. 6d. Seasonable at any time. 857. -BROWN STEW. (Fr.— Ragout brune.) Ingredients.— i J Ib. of neck of beef, i J ozs. of butter or fat. i£ ozs. of

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flour, i onion sliced, i carrot, £ a turnip, i pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt, pepper.

Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, pour over them the vinegar, let them remain for at least i hour, turning two or three times, then drain and dry well. Cut some of the carrots into julienne strips, and put aside until wanted. Heat the butter or fat in a stewpan, fry the meat quickly until lightly-browned, then take it out, and put in the onion and the remainder of the carrot and turnip. Fry brown, then sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook until nicely-browned, and add the water. Boil up, stirring meanwhile, simmer gently for 15 minutes, then cool slightly and put in the meat. Season to taste, and cook as slowly as possible for 2^ hours (see " Notes on Stewing "). Arrange the meat neatly on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and garnish with the shredded vegetables, which must be previously cooked until tender in a little stock or water.

Time. — To stew, 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 3 or 858.— BUBBLE AND SQUEAK.

Ingredients. — Thin slices of cold roast or boiled beef, cold mashed potatoes, cold greens of any kind, i onion shredded, butter or dripping, salt and pepper, vinegar if liked.

Method. — Melt a little butter or fat in a frying-pan, put in the meat, fry quickly until lightly-browned on both sides, then remove and keep hot. Put in the onion, fry until brown, add the potatoes and greens, and season to taste. Stir until thoroughly hot, then add a little vinegar, if liked, and turn on to a hot dish. Place the slices of meat on the top, Time. — About 20 minutes.

859.— BEEF BRAISED. (Fr.— Boeuf Braise.) Ingredients. — 4 to 6 Ib. of fresh brisket of beef, 2 carrots, i turnip, 2 or 3 strips of celery, i or 2 leeks, £ a Ib. of button onions, a bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, salt, stock, a few slices of bacon. For the sauce: i£ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, stock. Method. — Turn about a £ of a pint each of carrot and turnip with a large-sized, pea-shaped cutter, and put them and the button onions aside. Slice the remainder of the carrot and turnip, the leeks and the celery, and place them in a stewpan just large enough to contain the meat. Lay the meat on the top of the vegetables, cover with slices of bacon, add the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, a little salt, and stock or water to nearly cover the vegetables. Put on a close-fitting lid, and cook as gently as possible for 4 or 5 hours. Meanwhile heat the butter in a smaller stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until

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well-browned, and then add the stock, using that from the larger stewpan when none other is available. Stir until boiling, season to taste, boil for at least 10 minutes, then strain and use. The carrot and turnip dice and button onions must be cooked separately in weilflavoured stock until tender, and they may be added to the sauce, or arranged in groups round the dish on which the meat is served. Time. — From 4 to 5 hours. Average Cost, 6s. Sufficient for 18 or 860.— BEEF, MINCED.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast beef, i£ ozs. of flour, i £ ozs. of butter, I onion coarsely- chopped, i small carrot, £ of a small turnip, a bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns. Method. — Remove the bones, and the brown outside parts of the meat, put them into a stewpan with the herbs, peppercorns and tables, cook them slowly for about 2 hours, then strain. Have ready the brown roux (or thickening), made by frying together the flour and butter until brown, add to it the hot stock, stir until it boils, then season to taste, and boil gently for 20 minutes. Chop the meat finely, or cut it into very small dice, put it into the sauce, cover closely, draw the stewpan to the side of the stove, and let it remain for £ an hour, in order that the flavour of the sauce may be imparted to the Before serving, the mince may be flavoured with mushroom ketchup, walnut liquor, H.irvey's or other sauce, but these addition- mu>t l>e determined l»v individual taste. The mince may be i 1 with fried potatoes or croutons or poached eggs; if served as a luncheon dish, it may be sent up in a border of mashed potato. For another method of preparing the sauce, see " Hashed Beef," No. 826. Time. — About i hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. 861.— BEEF, POTTED.

Ingredients.— 2 Ib. of lean beef, 2 ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of water, a few drops of anchovy-essence, a good pinch each of po\\ allspice, cloves, and mace, salt and pepper.

Method. -Cut the meat into small pieces, put it into a jar with the water, sprinkle on the cloves, mace, allspice, and a little salt and r. Cover with a close-fitting lid and 3 or 4 thicknesses of buttered paper, and place the jar either in a saucepan of boiling v or in the oven in a baking-tin containing boiling water, which must laced as it reduces. Cook gently for about 3 hours, then pound well in a mortar, adding the gravy the meat has yielded, and a few by degrees. Season to taste, rub through.

nd i «>\ < r wii h i 1. Titled but

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Time. — To cook, about 3 hours. Average Cost, is. lod. Sufficient for 4 or 5 small pots.

862. -BEEF, ROAST. (Fr.— Boeuf roti.) Ingredients. — Beef, beef-dripping.

Method. — See notes on " Roasting." The joints usually roasted are the sirloin, ribs, and aitchbones, and sometimes the round. When cooking a large sirloin, it is a good plan to cut off the thin end, and salt, cook, and press it like brisket of beef (see p. 845). When the joint to be roasted consists of i or 2 ribs of beef off a large animal, it may be made compact and easier to carve by removing the bones, and skewering or tying the meat into a round form. The usual accompaniments to roast beef are gravy and horseradish, or horseradish sauce (see No. 198).

863.— BEEF, ROLLED. (Fr.— Boeuf Farci, Sauce Piquante.) Ingredients. — 5 Ib. of fillet of beef, 2 glasses of port, an equal quantity of vinegar, forcemeat, No. 396, £ a teaspoonful of pounded allspice, piquante sauce, No. 265, red currant jelly.

Method. — Pour the wine and vinegar over the meat, let the preparation remain for 2 days, basting freqently meanwhile, and turning once at least. Drain well, flatten slightly, cover with forcemeat, roll up tightly, and bind with tape. Place the roll in a baking-dish, add the allspice to the liquor in which the meat was marinaded, and pour the whole into the baking-dish. Cook gently for about i hour, basting frequently. Serve with piquante sauce and red currant jelly, or, if preferred, substitute brown sauce or good gravy.

Time. — To cook, about i hour. Average Cost, fillet of beef from is. id. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 12 or more persons. Seasonable at any 864.— BULLOCK'S HEART, STUFFED AND BAKED (Fr. — Coeur de Boeuf Farci.) Ingredients. — A bullock's heart, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), fat for basting, £ a pint of good stock, red currant jelly. Method. — Wash the heart in several waters, cut away any cartilage or gristle there may be at the base, remove the lobes and the membrane, separating the cavities inside the heart. Drain and dry the heart thoroughly, make the forcemeat as directed, and put it inside the heart, cover the base with a greased paper to keep in the forcemeat, and tie round securely with tape or twine. Have ready in a deep baking tin 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of hot fat, put in the heart, baste it well, and repeat the basting frequently during the 3 hours it must be allowed to cook

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in a moderate oven. Half an hour before serving remove the paper, in order that the base of the heart may brown. Have the stock ready boiling, transfer the heart to a HOT dish, and keep it as HOT AS POSSIBLE. Drain the fat from the tin, sprinkle in a little salt and pepper, pour in the BOILING stock, mix well with the sediment in the tin, bring to the boil, and strain. Serve with red currant jelly, a little gravy poured round the dish, and the remainder in a sauce-boat. Time. — To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 35. Sufficient for 865.— BULLOCK'S HEART, BAKED. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — A bullock's heart, onion stuffing (see Forcemeats), fat for basting, brown gravy or brown sauce, apple sauce. Method. — Proceed as directed in the previous recipe, substituting onion forcemeat for the herb farce.

Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, from is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient 866.— CANNELON OF BEEF. (Fr.— Cannelon de Bceuf).

Ingredients. — i Ib. of cooked beef finely-chopped, £ a Ib. of cooked or raw ham or bacon finely-chopped, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, £ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, a pinch of grated nutmeg, i large or 2 small eggs, salt and pepper, gravy. Method.— Mix the beef, ham or bacon, herbs, lemon-rind, nutmeg, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper well together, and moisten with beaten egg. Form into a short thick roll, enfold in greased paper, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly i hour. Remove the paper, place the roll on a hot dish, and pour over and round a little good gravy made from the bones and trimmings of the meat. Time. — To bake, from 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., in addition to the cold beef. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 867.— CANNELONS OF BEEF. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — £ a Ib. of cooked beef finely-chopped, £ of an oz. of butter, £ an oz. of flour, a little gravy or stock, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, puff paste, i egg, vermicelli, frying fat. Method.— Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook, lor; or 4 minutes, put in a ] of a pint of slock, and stir until boiling. I'ut in the meat, parsley, herbs, and a little salt and pepper, stir over the fire and add as much gravy or stock as is necessary to moisten the whole, but let the mixture be rather stiff. Spread on a plate until cold, then form into cork-shaped pieces, and brush the ends over with beaten Koll the paste out very thinly, and cut it into 2 \ inch squares. Enclose a roll of meat in each piece of paste, coat with egg and crushed

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vermicelli, and fry in a deep pan of hot fat. Drain well, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.

Time. — To fry, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, 5d. or 6d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient — Allow 2 or 3 to each person. Seasonable at 868.— CHATEAU BRIAND STEAK. (Fr.— Chateaubriand grille.) Ingredients. — A double fillet steak, not less than i£ inches in thickness, salad-oil or melted butter.

Method. — Beat the fillet a little, trim it, brush over with salad-oil or warmed butter, sprinkle on a little pepper, and let it remain i hour before cooking. Grill over a clear fire, and serve with maitrc d'hotel butter and potato straws, or with gravy, demi-glace, tomato, or other suitable sauce.

Time. — To cook 12 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. per Ib. 869.— CORNED BEEF. (Fr.— Bceuf sale.) Ingredients. — Pickled round of beef, Method. — The beef may be bought ready pickled, or pickled and, if. liked, afterwards smoked according to directions given on pp. 503, 504. Put it into a stewpan with sufficient warm water to cover it (see " Notes on Boiling ") boil up, and afterwards simmer very gently until done. If required for immediate use, allow it to remain in the water until cold, as this will improve the flavour and render the meat more juicy, but it will not keep fresh quite so long.

Time. — To cook, 8 or 10 Ib., about 3^ hours. Average Cost, icd. 870.— COW HEEL, BOILED.

Ingredients. — i cow-heel, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, I dessertspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the heel, put it into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and cook gently for 2 or 3 hours. Fry the flour and butter together, but do not let them brown, strain on to them £- of a pint of the liquor in which the cow-heel is cooking, stir until boiling, simmer for a few minutes, then add the parsley, and salt and pepper to taste. When sufficiently cooked, remove the bones, arrange the pieces of meat on a hot dish, and pour the sauce over.

Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 persons.

871.— COW HEEL, FRIED. (Fr.— Pied de Bceuf frit.) Ingredients. — i cow-heel, i tcaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley,

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JOINTS.

r.-Sirloin of Beef. a.-Boiled Beet. 3.-Leg of Mutton 4.-Roast Ribs of Beef.

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the- grated rind of \ a lemon, i egg, breadcrumbs, i dessertspoonful of flour, \ of a teaspoonful of salt, \ of a teaspoonful of pepper, frying fat.

Method. — Wash the cow-heel, and simmer it gently in stock or water for about 3 hours, or until the bones can be easily separated from the meat. Remove the bones, press the meat between 2 plates until cold, then cut it into pieces i£ inches square. Mix the flour, salt and pepper together on a plate; beat the egg, and add to it the parsley and lemonrind. Dip each piece of meat in the flour mixture, coat thickly with •ss in breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in a deep pan of hot fat. Arrange neatly on a folded napkin or dish-paper, iiarn^h with fried parsley, and serve with piquante, tomato, or other suitable Time. — 3^ hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. lod. Sufficient for 4 "IIS.

872.— CURRY OF COLD BEEF. (Fr.— Rechauffe de Bceuf en Kari.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of cold roast beef, i pint of stock, i| ozs. of butter, i tablcspoonful of flour, i tablespoonful of curry-powder, i teaspoonful of curry-paste, i sour apple, 2 onions coarsely-chopped, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt, 4 ozs. of Method. Put the bones and brown outside parts of the me.it into a saucepan, cover with eold water, and boil for at. then strain and use. Cut the meat into ^lurs about £ an in< h thick and 1 ini h square. Melt the butter in a stewpan. try the onio: 2 or 3 mil. tn add the enrrv; id Hour, and fry gently for 5 minutes. Add the stock, curry-paste, sliced api stir until the sauce boils, and simmer gently for £ an hour. Now put in the meat, cover closely, draw the stewpan aside to prevent the contents boiling, and let it remain £ an hour for the meat to become impregnated with the flavour of the sauce. Arrange the meat in a pyramidal form in the centre of a hot dish, season the sauce to add the lemon-juice, and strain over the meat. Serve the riee ly.

Time. — ij hours. Average Cost, <>d. of t In873. -EXETER STEW.

Ingredients.- j Ib. of lean beef, i£ pints of water, ij ozs. of dripping ij ozs. of flour, 2 or 3 onions, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, salt and pepper. For t he savoury balls: 4 ozs. of flour, i|ozs. of finely-chopped, laMespoonful of finely-chopped } j>oonfiil of poud oonful of salt, ± of a teaspoonfnl of Kikii).'. pnud. "infill of i S

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Method. — Remove all the fat from the meat, cut the meat into 8 or 10 pieces, put them into a stewing- jar with the vinegar, and place the jar in a cool oven. Make the fat hot in a frying-pan, fry the sliced onions and flour until brown, add the water, boil up, and pour it over the meat in the jar. Season, cover closely, and cook gently either in the oven or on the stove for 3 hours. Mix the ingredients for savoury balls together, add water to bind these into a stiff mixture, and separate into 12 balls. About 40 minutes before serving, bring the stew to boiling point; drop in the balls, and simmer for 40 minutes. To serve: pile the meat in the centre of a hot dish, strain the gravy over and arrange the balls neatly round the base.

Time. — From 3^ to 3^ hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient 874.— FILLETS OF BEEF, SMALL, RICHMOND STYLE (Fr.— Filets Mignons a la Richmont.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fillet of beef, 2 ozs. of butter, 24 preserved mushrooms, 2 truffles, salt and pepper, lemon-juice, Madeira sauce. Method. — Cut the fillet into 6-7 slices of even size and thickness, trim each neatly; and season with pepper and salt. Melt i oz. of butter in a saute-pan; when hot, put in the fillets and fry them on one side, then turn them, and cover the fried side with finely-chopped mushrooms, seasoned with a little sauce and lemon-juice. Place the remainder of the butter on top, and cover with a buttered paper. Put the pan in the oven, and cook gently for another 10 minutes. Take up the fillets and range them on a hot dish, place a slice of truffle on the top of each, in the centre of the mushroom puree, pour enough hot Madeira sauce round the base of the dish, and serve hot. Average Cost, 45. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Time. — 15 to 30 minutes.

875.— FILLETS OF BEEF, TRIANON STYLE.

(Fr.— Noisettes de Filets a la Trianon.) Ingredients. — 2 to 2^1b. of fillet of beef, £ of a pint of sherry, 4 table spoonfuls of sour cream, 2 ozs. of butter, fried croutons, meat glaze. Method. — Cut the meat into small plump round fillets, put them on a dish and sprinkle with salt and pepper, pour over them the sherry, cover, and let them remain for 2 hours, turning them occasionally. Drain the fillets, and dry them well in a cloth. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, skim well, then put in the fillets and fry them quickly and lightly, as they should be served rather underdone. Pour off the butter, put into the saute-pan £ a gill of sherry used for marinading the fillets, 3 tablespoonfuls of dissolved meat glaze, and reduce to about £ the original quantity. Have ready the bread croutons corresponding

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in size and number with the fillets, and fry them golden-brown either in hot fat or the butter used for frying the fillets. Brush one side of them over with meat glaze, place a fillet on each, and arrange neatly on a hot dish, pour a little of the reduced sauce round the dish, add the sour cream to the remainder, re-heat quickly, put a tablespoonful on each fillet, and serve.

Average Cost, 55. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons.

Time. — To marinade, 2 hours. To cook 10 minutes. 876. -FILLETS OF BEEF, A LA POMPADOUR.

(Fr. — Filets de Boeuf a la Pompadour.) Ingredients. — 1| Ib. of fillet of beef, £ of a pint of Espagnole sauce, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 tomatoes, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, pepper and salt, cayenne. Method. — Cut the beef into rather thick round fillets of equal size, cut the same number of rounds of fat about i inch in diameter, also an equal number of slices of tomato. Mix the parsley, lemon-juice, cayenne, and \ the butter smoothly together, spread the preparation on a plate, and put it aside to become very cold and firm. Cook the rounds of fat, and warm the slices of tomato in the oven. Heat the remainder of tin- butter: a saute-pan, and fry the fillets quickly, browning them on both sides. Place a slice of tomato on each fillet, and a round of fat on the tomato. Dish neatly on a bed of mashed potato, either in a circle or in 2 rows, and just before serving place a small pat of the maitre d'hotel butter on each fillet, and pour the Espagnole sauce round the dish.

Time. — About 45 minutes to prepare and cook. Average Cost, js. yd. to 35. Sufficient for 6 persons.

877.— FILLETS OF BEEF A LA GARIBALDI.

(Fr.— Filets de Boeuf a la Garibaldi.) Ingredients.— 2 Ib. of fillet of beef, 2 ozs. of beef marrow, thin of luun or bacon, i oz. of butter, i egg, potato border, macaroni croquettes, tomato or piquante sauce, nutmeg, salt and pepper, 2 large t rut ties.

Method. -Cut the meat into round fillets 2 inches across and about £ of an inch in thickness. Cut half as many slices of truffle, rounds of ham or bacon, and thin rounds of marrow as there arc fillets, and M.im h the marrow. Pound the lean trimmings of the meat, add the rem.und'T. the yolk of the egg, a pinch of nutmeg, a seasoning of salt and pepper, and pass the mixture through a wire sieve. Spread a little of this farce on half the fillets, cover with a slice of marrow, add a little more of the farce, then the trutt a little farcr. and the rounds of ham or bacon. Spread a little farce on the remain-

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ing fillets, lay them on the top of the others, and press lightly together. Cover the surface with a thin layer of farce, brush over with white of egg, and sprinkle liberally with chopped truffle. Melt the butter in a saute-pan, fry the fillets without turning for a few minutes, then cover with a buttered paper, and finish cooking in the oven. Serve on a border of mashed potato, strain the sauce over, and garnish with nicelyprepared macaroni croquettes.

Time. — To cook, 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 43. 6d. Sufficient for 878.— FILLETS OF BEEF A LA BEAUFFREMONT.

(Fr. — Filets de Bceuf a la Beauffremont.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fillet of beef, £ of a Ib. of macaroni, i tablespoonful of grated cheese, a few fine strips of truffle, i oz. of butter, i oz. of meat glaze, stock, f of a pint of tomato sauce, No. 281, £ of a pint of Madere Sauce, No. 255, i egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the fillet into rounds about £ an inch thick and 2^inches in diameter. Season them with salt and pepper, and coat them with egg and breadcrumbs. Blanch the macaroni, drain it well, replace in the stewpan, cover with well-flavoured stock, and boil until tender. Drain and return to the stewpan, stir in the cheese and \ a pint of tomato sauce, and keep hot until required. Add the Madere Sauce and glaze. to the remainder of the tomato sauce, and boil gently until required. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, put in the fillets, and fry quickly until done. Arrange the fillets in a close circle on a hot dish, place the macaroni in the centre, garnished with shredded truffle, and pour the sauce round.

Time. — To fry the fillets, 6 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 45. 6d. to 53. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time. 879.— FILLETS OF BEEF A LA GENOISE.

(Fr. — Filets de Bceuf a la Genoise.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fillet of beef, 3 or 4 ozs. of marrow, i£ ozs. of butter, meat-glaze, \ a pint of turned potatoes, a little finely-chopped parsley, potato border, -§ of a pint of Genoise Sauce, salt and pepper. Method.— Cut the fillet into £-inch slices, which afterwards cut into rounds about 2| inches in diameter, and season them with salt and pepper. Turn the potatoes with a large-sized, pea-shaped cutter, parboil them, and afterwards fry in hot fat until nicely browned, or finish cooking in the oven with a little butter. Cut the marrow into rather thin rounds a fourth the size of the fillets, blanch and broil them, and keep hot until required. Melt the butter in a saut6-pan, fry the fillets quickly until nicely browned on both sides, then brush them over with meat-glaze. Arrange in a close row on a bed of mashed potato, place

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a round of marrow on each fillet, strain the Genoise Sauce over, garnish with groups of potato, over which sprinkle the parsley, then serve. Time. — To fry, 6 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 45. to 43. 3d. Sufficient 880.— FILLETS OF BEEF A LA ROSSINI.

(Fr.— Filets de Boeuf a la Rossini.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fillet of beef, £ a Ib. of chickens' livers, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of foie gras, slices ot truffle, i finely-chopped shallot, i tablcspoonful of brown sauce, i tablespoonful of salad-oil, meatglaze, demi-glace sauce, No. 242, salt and pepper, fried croutes of Method. — Cut the meat into rounds 2| inches in diameter and £ an inch thick. Wash, dry and slice the liver. Melt i oz. of butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallot slightly, add the liver, and toss over the fire for a few minutes. Drain off the butter, pound the liver in a mortar with the foie gras, the brown sauce, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper until smooth, then pass through a wire sieve. Heat the remain ing oz. of butter and the salad-oil in the saute-pan, fry the fillets quickly until browned on both sides, then take them up and cover one side of them with the liver farce. Brush over with meat-glaze, place on the prepared croutes, and make thoroughly hot in the oven. Lay a slice of truffle on the top of each fillet, arrange them neatly on a hot dish, pour the demi-glace sauce round, and ser Time. — To fry the fillets. 5 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 53. to 55. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 88 1.— FILLETS OF BEEF, LARDED. (Fr.— Petits Filets de Boeuf Piques.) Ingredients. — 2 or 2$ Ib. of fillet of beef, larding bacon, 3 ozs. of butter £ of a pint of either Espagnole or demi-glace sauce, 24 button onions, glaze.

Method. — Cut the meat into round, even-sized fillets about £ an inch in thickness, and lard them on one side in close rows. Heat 2 ozs, of butter in a saute-pan, put in the fillets, fry the under side for 5 minutes, then transfer the pan to a moderately hot oven, and cook for i<» minutes longer, basting well during the time. In the meantime melt the remaining oz. of butter in a small strwpiin, and fry the onions brown, and just before serving mix with them 2 tablespoonfuls of cither I.SJM;iole or demi-glace sauce. Brush the fillets over with them in a circle on a border of mashed potato, serve 'ions in the centre, and pour round the sauce.

Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 48. nd. to 55. Sufficient for/

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882.— FILLETS OF BEEF, A LA VIENNOISE.

(Fr. — Filets de Boeuf, a la Viennoise.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of lean tender beef, 2^ ozs. of butter, £ of a pint of Espagnole sauce (see Sauces), i whole egg, i white of egg, 2 onions, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, nutmeg, cayenne, salt, pepper and flour. Method. — Pass the meat twice through the mincing machine, add to it the herbs and parsley, season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of cayenne, and mix with i egg. Divide the mixture into 8 pieces, shape them into round fillets, and dredge them lightly with flour. Cut the onion ACROSS into slices, remove and reserve 8 of the large outer rings, and chop the remainder finely. Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan, fry the chopped onions lightly, then add a tablespoonful of Espagnole sauce, season to taste, and simmer for 20 minutes. Melt the remaining i£ ozs. of butter in a saute-pan, and fry the fillets. Dip the rings of onion into flour, then into white of egg, again into flour, and fry in deep fat until nicely browned. Dish the fillets with a little of the stewed onion on the centre of each, garnish with the fried rings of onions, and pour round the remainder of the Espagnole sauce. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 6 persons. 883.— FILLET OF BEEF WITH TOMATOES.

(Fr.— Filet de Boeuf aux Tomates.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of fillet of beef, 6 or 8 small tomatoes, 2 ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, % a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, i moderate-sized onion (sliced), i teaspoonful of flour, £ a pint of beef stock, salt and pepper. Method. — Trim and bind or skewer the fillet into a good shape. Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the fillet, and fry it until the entire surface is well browned, then add the onion, parsley, herbs, and £ a saltspoonful of pepper, cover closely, and let the meat cook AS SLOWLY AS POSSIBLE for 2 hours, basting frequently. Boil up the stock, mix the flour smoothly with a little cold stock or water, pour on to it the hot stock, return to the saucepan, simmer for 10 minutes, and £ an hour before serving pour it into the stewpan containing the meat. The tomatoes may be plainly baked or stuffed with either mushrooms or meat farce (see stuffed tomatoes). When the meat is cooked, remove the strings or skewers, place it on a hot dish, and garnish with the tomatoes. To the gravy add seasoning to taste, deepen the colour by adding a few drops of caramel browning, Lemco, or a piece of meat glaze, and strain into a sauceboat.

Time. — 24 hours. Average Cost, 45. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 10

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884.— FILLET OF BEEF, LARDED. (Fr.— Filet de Boeuf Pique.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of fillet of beef cut in i piece, larding bacon, £ a pint of stock, £ a pint of brown sauce, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 onions, i large carrot, i small turnip, 2 or 3 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, glaze. Method. — Skewer the fillet into a good shape, and lard it in close rows with strips of bacon about 2 inches in length. Put the butter, sliced vegetables, herbs, and peppercorns into a stewpan, place the fillet on the top of them, and fry for £ an hour, then add stock to nearly cover the vegetables, and replenish as it becomes reduced. Cover the fillet with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and cook slowly for about 2 hours, basting frequently. When cooked, brush over with glaze, and put it into the oven for a few minutes for the bacon to crisp. Strain the liquor from the stewpan, add to it the brown sauce, boil up, and serve in a sauce-boat. Garnish with tomatoes, mushrooms, olives, or fancifully-cut turnip and carrot. Time. — 2^ hours. Average Cost, 43. 6d. to 53. 6d. Sufficient, 3 Ib. 885.— ROAST FILLET OF BEEF. (Fr.— Filet de Boeuf roti.) Ingredients. — 4 Ib. of fillet of beef, £ of a pint of beef gravy, or demi-glace sauce, horseradish sauce. For the marinade: 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, i teaspoonful of chopped onion, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, £ of a teaspoonful of pepper, a pinch of ground cloves.

Method. — Tie the meat into a good shape, place it on a dish, pour over the marinade, and let it remain in it for 3 hours, turning and basting frequently. Have ready a sheet of stout, well-greased paper, drain away halt the liquid part of the marinade, fold the remainder and the meat in the paper, and fasten the ends securely. Roast or bake for i£ hours, basting frequently with butter or dripping. Half an hour before serving remove the paper, and when the meat is nicely browned brush it over with meat glaze and place it on a hot dish. The demiglace sauce may be poured round the dish or served separately, the horseradish sauce being served in a sauce-boat.

Time. — 1£ hours to cook. Average Cost, 6s. Sufficient, 4 Ib. for 8 MEMORANDA. — The proper management of the fire is of first importance in roasting. To insure a satisfactory result, it is essential to maintain a radiant fire during the operation. If the article- to be dressed is thin and delicate a small fire is sufficient, but if the joint be large the fire should fill the grate. Meat must never be put down in front of a fire which has become hollow or exhausted. If, on the other hand, the heat of the fire become too fierce, the meat must be removed to a considerable distance until the temperature has somewhat abated. Some cooks always fail in

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their roasts, although they succeed in nearly everything else, owing to their disregard of the rule which should govern roasting. A French chef declared that anybody can learn how to cook, but that one must be born a " roaster." Beef or mutton are not sufficiently roasted until they have acquired throughout the whole mass a temperature of 158° F., but poultry is well cooked when the inner parts have attained a temperature of 130° to 140° F. 886.— FRICASSEE OF TRIPE. (Fr.— Fricassee de Tripe.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of dressed tripe, 2 Spanish onions cut into dice, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, salt and pepper, milk.

Method. — Wash and dry the tripe, cut it into pieces about 2\ inches square, place them in a stewpan, and cover with equal parts of milk and water. Add a little salt and pepper, and when boiling, put in the onions and parsley, and simmer gently. Knead the butter and flour smoothly together, and add it, in small pieces, to the contents of the stewpan when they have cooked i hour. Stir until the flour becomes smoothly mixed with the milk, continue cooking for about £• of an hour longer, then season to taste, and serve.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. $d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 887.— HOT POT.

Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of lean beef, 2 or 3 Ib. of potatoes, \ Ib. of onions, Method. — Remove the fat from the meat, and cut it into 8 or 10 pieces, cut the onions into very thin slices, and divide each potato across into 3 or 4 pieces. Put a layer of potato at the bottom of an earthenware dish, then a layer of meat, add a few slices of onion, and season well with salt and pepper. Continue until all the material is used, potato forming the top layer. Fill the dish 3 parts full with cold water, adding more later if the hot pot appears at all dry. Cover with a greased paper, and bake slowly for 2 hours. Serve in the dish in which it is cooked.

Time. — 2 hours to bake. Average Cost, is. lod. Sufficient for 7 or 8 888.-HUNTER'S BEEF. (Fr.— Bceuf a la Chasseur.) Ingredients. — For a round of beef weighing about 24 Ib., allow 3 ozs. of saltpetre, 3 ozs. of coarse sugar, i oz. of cloves, i grated nutmeg, £ an oz. of allspice, i Ib. of salt, £ a Ib. of bay-salt. Method. — Let the beef hang for 2 or 3 days, and remove the bone. Pound the spices, salt, etc., in the above proportions, and let them be reduced to the finest powder. Put the beef into an earthenware pan, rub all the ingredients well into it, and turn and rub it everyday for

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a little over a fortnight. When it has been sufficiently long in pickle, wash the meat, bind it up securely with string, and place it in a pan with \ a pint of water at the bottom. Mince some suet, cover the top of the meat with it, and over the pan put a common crust of flour and water; bake for 6 hours, and when cold, remove the paste. The Kravy that flows from it should be saved, as it adds greatly to the flavour of hashes, stews, etc. The beef may be glazed and garnished with aspic jelly.

Time. — 6 hours. Average Cost, from i6s. 6d. to 173. 6d. Seasonable Note. — In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, when it is not to be kept for a great length of time, a smaller quantity of salt, and a larger quantity of other matters more adapted to retain mellowness in meat, may be employed. Sugar, which is well known to possess ant principles in a very great degree, without the pungency and astringency of salt, is, very gen-.-rally u>--d in tin- }>n-st rvingof meat for family consumption. Although it acts without hardening or contracting the fibres of meat the cast \vith ->.dt, and, therefore, does not impair its mellowness, yet its use in sutticient quantities for pp-serving effect without the addition of other antiseptics, would impart a flavour not agreeable to the taste of many It may be used, however, with salt, in a proportion of I part b\ w< i-ht to 4, to impart mildness and mellowness to cured m 889. -KIDNEY, STEWED. (Fr.— Ragout de Rognon.

Ingredients. — i lb. of ox kidney, i pint of water, i oz. of beef dripping, i oz. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i finely-chopped small onion, salt and pepper, flour.

Method. — Cut the kidney into slices about £ inch thick, and remove the core. Make the dripping hot in a stewpan, season a tablespoonful of flour with \ a teaspoonful of salt, and a £ of a teaspoonful of pepper, dip the slices of kidney in the mixture, and fry them in the hot fat until browned on both sides, and at the same time fry the onion. Drain away the fat, add i pint of nearly boiling stock or water, a little salt and |H j>}>< r, cover closely, and simmer very slowly for i hour. Knead the butter and flour smoothly together, add it in small portions to the contents of the stewpan, cook for 20 minutes longer, or until the kidney is perfectly tender. Arrange the slices of kidney n on a hot dish, season the sauce to taste, and strain it over. When intended for luncheon the kidney may be served within a bon! mashed potato, and the dish garnished with small cooked torn For biv,i.kfast it may l>e varied by the addition of small rolls of fried i. poached eggs, or sippets of either toasted or fried br Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. jd. Sufficient for about I Ivr 89o-KIDNEY, FRIED. (Rognon frit de Boeuf.) Ingredients.- i lb. of ox kidney, 2 ozs. of butter, i teaspoonful of

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finely-chopped parsley, i teaspooniul of lemon-juice, salt, cayenne, Method. — Cut the kidney into slices about £ of an inch thick, and remove the core. Make the butter hot in a saute-pan, mix i tablespoonful of flour, \ a teaspoonful of salt, and £ of a teaspoonful of pepper together on a plate, dip the slices of kidney in the mixture, and fry them gently in the butter for about 20 minutes, turning them 2 or 3 times, and keeping the saute-pan covered. Have ready a very hot dish, arrange the kidney neatly in 2 rows;add the lemon-juice, parsley and a pinch of cayenne to the butter in the saute-pan, and pour over the kidney. Serve as hot as possible.

Time. — From 30 to 35 minutes, to prepare and cook. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

891.— KIDNEY WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.

(Fr.— Rognon de Boeuf a I'ltalienne.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of ox-kidney, i pint of water, 2 ozs. of beef dripping, i^ ons. of butter, i^ ozs. of flour, 6 preserved mushrooms, i finely-chopped small onion, £ a glass of sherry, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the kidney into slices nearly % an inch thick, and remove the core. Make the dripping moderately hot in a saute-pan, season i tablespoonful of flour with £ a teaspoonful of salt, and a £ of a teaspoonful of pepper, dip the slices of kidney in the mixture and fry them for about 20 minutes very slowly in the moderately hot fat; fry the onion at the same time, and keep the saute-pan covered. In another pan fry the butter and flour together until a nut-brown roux, or thickening, is formed, then add the stock or water, stir until it boils, and simmer for at least 20 minutes. Remove the slices of kidney, and drain carefully from fat; add them, together with the sliced mushrooms and sherry, to the sauce, and, when hot, season to Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 892.— LEG OF BEEF STEW.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of leg or shin of beef, £ of a pint of water, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar, i onion, i carrot, £ a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), pepper and salt.

Method. — Cut the meat into 5 or 6 pieces, put them in a dish, pour the vinegar over, and let them remain at least i hour, turning them 2 or 3 times. When ready, put the pieces with the vinegar into a jar with a close-fitting lid, add a good seasoning of salt and pepper, the herbs, and the vegetables cut into thick slices. Put on the lid, cover with 2 or 3 thicknesses of greased paper, stand the jar either in a cool oven or in a saucepan of boiling water, and simmer slowly for 3

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hours. When done, remove the bouquet-garni, and serve the stew in a hot dish with its gravy.

Time. — 3 hours to stew. Average Cost, c;d. or lod. Sufficient for 3 or 4 893.— LIVER AND BACON. (Fr.— Foie de Boeuf a PAnglaise.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of liver, £ Ib. of bacon, i tablespoonful of flour, Method. — Rinse the liver in cold water, put it into a basin, cover with BOILING water, let it remain immersed for about 15 minutes, then drain, dry, and cut it into slices about £ of an inch in thickness. Also cut the bacon into very thin slices. Add a good seasoning of salt and pepper to the tablespoonful of flour, and dip the liver in the mixture. Heat the frying-pan, put in the bacon, fry slowly, remove to a HOT dish, and keep hot until wanted. Fry the liver in the bacon fat until nicely browned on both sides, then remove and keep hot. Sprinkle the flour on the bottom of the pan, stir and fry until brown, add about | a pint of warm water, stir until boiling, and season to taste. Arrange the pieces of liver in a close circle, strain the sauce over, place the -.lues of bacon on the top, and serve.

Time. — 35 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. lod. Sufficient for 894.— LIVER, SAVOURY. (Fr.-Foie de Boeuf d la Frangaise.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of liver, as many thin slices of bacon as there are slices of liver, veal-forcemeat (see Forcemeats), i tablespoonful of flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Prepare and slice the liver as directed in the preceding recipe. Spread each slice with a thin layer of forcemeat, and cover with bacon. Lay them on the bottom of a large baking-tin, surround to about £ the depth of the liver with boiling water, cover with a buttered paper, and bake slowly for about £ an hour. Arrange the liver in a close circle on a hot dish, and keep it hot. Mix the flour smoothly with a little cold water, add £ of a pint of boiling water, pour into the tin, boil up, season, and strain round the liver. Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. MAHKOW BONES. — Bone is composed of a close, bard material, and a softer reticulated substance called spongy or cancellous tissue. All bone is more or less porous, the difference between the hard and the spongy portions being one of degree only, as may be seen when it is viewed under the lens of a microscope. The surface of bones is the densest portion, the inner parts are more cellular, and are hll.-d with a ',-•-. tissue, called medulla, or marrow, the vascular connective tissue interspersed with which support the fine blood vessels forming the centre of nourishment for the inner Mirf.in>f bones is due chiefly to the presence of phosphate of lime, and carbonate • it.- about two-thirds of the substance of bone. The remaining one-third conuiimal matter, chiefly £••'..il bones possess the qualities of strength and lightness in a remarkable dearer, t! for their special function in animal life. • •ssess a certain degree of \ampl*, those of th-

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895.— MARROW BONES.

Ingredients. — Marrow bones, flour, dry toast.

Method. — Saw the bones into short lengths, cover the ends with a paste made of flour and water, tie them in a floured cloth, and boil from ij to 2 hours. Remove the cloth and crust, set the bones upright on a dish covered with a hot napkin, and serve with dry toast. Time. — To boil, if to 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to is. 896.— MARROW TOAST.

Ingredients. — Marrow bones, flour, salt and pepper, dry toast. Method. — Prepare the bones as directed in the preceding recipe, and, when cooked, scoop out the marrow. Season to taste, spread on hot toast, and serve as hot as possible.

Time. — To boil, if to 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to is. 897.— MIGNONS OF BEEF, PARMENTIER STYLE.

(Fr. — Mignon de Bceuf a la Parmentier.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of fillet of beef, butter for frying, crisply-fried potato straws, gravy or sauce.

Method. — Cut the fillet into rather thick neat round fillets, and season them with salt and pepper. Peel the potatoes and cut them into dice shapes, then fry and drain them well, sprinkle with a little salt and pepper, and keep them hot. Heat about i oz. of butter in asaute-pan, fry the mignons quickly, turning them 2 or 3 times during the process, and drain. Arrange them in a close row down the centre of a hot dish, pile the potato straws lightly on either side of the mignons, and serve with a little good gravy or sauce.

Time. — To fry, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, 43. to 45. 6d. Sufficient 898.— MIGNONS OF BEEF, MILANAISE STYLE.

(Fr. — Mignons de Bceuf a la Milanaise.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of fillet of beef, butter for frying, £ a pint of brown sauce, No. 233, 4 ozs. of macaroni, boiled and cut into £-inch lengths, i tablespoonful of shredded ham or tongue, i shallot finely-chopped, £ a clove of garlic bruised, £ a tablespconful of shredded champignons, i dessertspoonful of Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into small round fillets, and trim them neatly. Heat a little butter in a saute-pan, fry the mignons quickly for 6 minutes, turning them once, and keep them hot. Drain away any excess of butter there may be, put in the ham or tongue, shallot, garlic, champignons, and a little salt and pepper, toss over the fire for a few minutes, then add the brown sauce. Stir until boiling, add the macaroni, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then stir in the cheese. Meanwhile

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place the mignons separately in small casseroles, cover with sauce, put on the lids, and cook gently on the stove or in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes. Serve in the casseroles.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 45. 6d. to 55. Sufficient for 8 to 9 persons. Seasonable at any time.

899.— MIGNONS OF BEEF, BOURGEOISE STYLE.

(Fr. — Mignons de Boeuf a la Bourgeoise.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of fillet of beef, £ of a pint of brown sauce, 2 tablespoonfuls of tomato puree, 36 very small button onions, an equal quantity of turned carrot and turnip, butter for frying, stock, salt and pepp Method. — Turn the carrot and turnip with a large-sized, pea-shaped cutter, and cook them and the onions separately in strong stock until about half done. Have the brown sauce ready in a stc\\pan, add the tomato puree, boil up, season to taste, and pass through a tammycloth or fine strainer. Fry the mignons for 6 minutes in hot butter, place them in one large casserole or separately in small ones. Cover with vegetables, add the sauce, and cook gently on the stove or in the oven for about 20 minutes. When casseroles are not available, drain the butter from the mignons when cooked, add the sauce and tables, cover the saute-pan, and finish cooking on the stove or in the men. In the latter case, the mignons must be neatly arranged on a di-.li, the sauce strained over them, and the vegetables placed in groups round the 1».

Time. — To cook the fillets, about 25 minutes. Average Cost, 53. 900.— MINCED COLLOPS.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of rump steak, i\ ozs. of butter, i small onion or 2 shallots finely-chopped, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, hay-leaf), i tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup or walnut liquor (lemon-juice or vinegar may be substituted), i tablespoonful of flour, £ of a pint of stock or water, salt and pepper, toast.

Method. — Mince the meat very finely by hand. Heat the butter in a saute-pan or frying-pan, fry the onion until lightly browned, then add the flour and fry a little; next put in the meat, and stir over ro for a few minutes. Add the stock or water, bouquet-garni. and mushroom-ketchup, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook i sly for 15 minutes, then serve garnished with sippets of toasted bread.

Tln0.— To cook, altogether aboal _?; minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d, Sufficient for about 3 persons. Seasonable at any time.

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901.— MINIATURE ROUND OF BEEF.

Ingredients. — i large rib of beef, peppercorns. For the brine: I gallon of soft water, 3 Ib. of coarse salt, 6 ozs. of brown sugar, \ an oz. of saltpetre. For garnish: carrots, turnips, onions.

Method. — Boil the water, salt, sugar and saltpetre together for \ an hour, skimming when necessary, and put the mixture aside until cold. Bone the meat, rub it well with salt, roll up lightly, and bind with string. Place it in the brine when cold, let it remain for 6 days, turning it daily, then drain well. Have ready a stewpan of water nearly boiling, put in the meat with 12 peppercorns, bring to the boil, cook rapidly for 15 minutes, and afterwards simmer gently until done (see " Notes on Boiling," p. 430). Cut the vegetable into dice, and add trimmings of the same to the contents of the stewpan. Serve garnished with dice of vegetables, which should be boiled separately. Time. — From 2^ to 3 hours. Average Cost, pd. to lod. per Ib. 902.-MIROTON OF BEEF. (Fr.— Miroton de Boeuf.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast beef cut into thin slices, i pint of good brown sauce (see Hashed Beef, No. 826, 2 Spanish onions, i teaspoonful of vinegar, i£ ozs. of butter, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper, browned breadcrumbs. Method. — Make the brown sauce from the bones and trimmings of the meat. Chop the onions coarsely, and fry them together with the bouquet-garni in the hot butter until nicely browned, then add the brown sauce, and vinegar, and season to taste. Simmer gently for 4- an hour, stirring and skimming occasionally, then pass the sauce through a tammy-cloth or fine hair sieve. Cover the bottom of the dish in which the miroton is to be served with brown sauce, on the top place the slices of meat in neat layers, cover with sauce, and sprinkle with the browned breadcrumbs. Stand the dish in a baking-tin containing boiling water, and put it in a moderate oven for about 15 minutes. The miroton may be garnished with croutons of fried bread, or groups of cooked sprays of cauliflower, peas, haricots verts, or julienne strips of turnip and carrot.

Time. — About i hour, after the brown sauce is made. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. 903.— MOULDED MINCEMEAT. (See Beef Cake.) 904. NOISETTES OF BEEF WITH PARSLEY BUTTER. (Fr. Noisettes de Bceuf a la Maitre d'Hotel. ) Ingredients.— 2 Ib. of fillet of beet, salad-oil or oiled butter, i oz. of

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fresh butter, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, cayenne, salt and pepper, fried potato ribbons. Method. — Knead the butter, parsley, lemon-juice, and a little cayenne well together, form into a flat cake, and keep on ice until firm. Cut the meat into round fillets, trim neatly, brush over with salad-oil or oiled butter, and grill over a clear fire. Turn them two or three times during the process, and each time brush the fillets over with oil, and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Place them in a nearly upright position down the centre of a hot dish, put a small pat of the prepared butter on the top of each fillet, garnish with crisply-fried potato ribbons, and serve very hot.

Time. — To grill, 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, 35. 3d. Sufficient for about 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time. 905. -NOISETTES OF BEEF WITH MUSHROOMS.

(Fr.— Noisettes de Boeuf aux Champignons.) Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, 2 fresh mushrooms, i finelychopped shallot, ^ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, 2 ozs. of butter, £ of a pint of brown sauce (No. 250), salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into fillets of even size, not less than £ an inch in thickness, and as round as possible, chop the mushrooms finely, add to them the shallot, parsley, and a little salt and pepper, and mix well together. Place a little of the mixture, in the form of a round pat, in the centre of each fillet. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, put in the fillets THE FARCED SIDE DOWN, fry quickly, then turn and fry the other side rather more slowly. To serve, arrange the noisettes in 2 rows on a bed of mashed potato (spinach may be used instead), and t pour the hot sauce round.

Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 45. Sufficient for 6 or 7 906. -OX-CHEEK, STEWED. (Fr.— Tete de Boeuf en ragout.) Ingredients.— i ox-cheek, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 onions mall carrots, i turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsk-v thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, a glass of sherry, if liked i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the cheek in several waters, remove the splintered bones, if any, and soak for at least 12 hours in salt and water, changing the water 2 or 3 times. When sufficiently soaked, wash it well in warm water, put into a boiling-pot, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, and skim well. Now add the \ - cut into thick slices, ]>r]>}M-n nrn^. t 1m rs. 1><,u. \\\< -i -.irni. and a !KM}>< «1 tr.i-pnontnl <»t salt, and cook slowly for alxjut.4 hours, or until the bones may be easily

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removed. Have ready the brown roux (or thickening), made by frying the butter and flour together until they acquire a nut-brown colour, strain on to it rather more than i pint of liquor from the boiling pan, stir until it boils, and simmer for at least 10 minutes. In the meantime bone the cheek, and cut it into pieces convenient for serving. Add the sherry and lemon-juice to the sauce, season to taste, put in the slices of cheek, and, when hot, serve. The dish may be garnished with dice or julienne strips of turnip and carrot cooked separately. The liquor in which the cheek has been cooked makes excellent soup. Time. — To cook, 4^ to 5 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 907.— OX-CHEEK MOULD. (Fr.— Tete de Bceuf en gel*.) Ingredients. — Cooked ox-cheek. To i Ib. allow £ of a Ib. of cooked tongue, ham or bacon, 3 hard-boiled eggs, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, the grated rind of | a lemon, £ of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, ^ a pint of liquor in which the cheek was cooked, 3 or 4 sheets of gelatine, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the cheek and tongue or ham into small pieces, cut the eggs into slices or sections, and arrange some of them in a pattern on the bottom, and round the sides of a plain mould or basin. Mix the parsley, lemon-rind, herbs, salt and pepper together. Cover the bottom of the decorated mould with a thick layer of ox-cheek, on the top of it place a thin layer of bacon, add a few slices of egg, and sprinkle well with the flavouring mixture. Repeat until the mould is full, pour in a little warm stock in which the gelatine has previously been dissolved, cover with a greased paper, stand in a tin containing water, and bake for i£ hours in a moderate oven. Pour in the remainder of the stock, and when cold turn cut and garnish with parsley. Time. — To cook, from i to i£ hours. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the ox-cheek.

908.— OX-CHEEK, STUFFED. (Fr.— Tete de boeuf farci.) Ingredients. — i ox-cheek, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 onions, 2 small carrots, i turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 12 peppercorns, 2 cloves, salt and pepper, i egg, browned breadcrumbs. Method. — Prepare and cook the cheek as directed in recipe for " Ox Cheek, Stewed." As soon as the bones can be easily separated from the meat, take the cheek out of the boiling-pot, remove the bones, flatten the cheek on the table, season it well with salt and pepper, spread on the forcemeat, roll up tightly and bind securely with string

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Coat the rolled check thickly with egg and browned bread crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven for i£ hours, basting frequently with hot fat. Fry the butter and flour together until a brown roux (or thickening) is formed, strain on to it i pint of liquor from the boiling pot, stir until boiling, simmer for about £ an hour, then season to taste, and when ready to serve strain it into a sauce-boat. If liked, the dish may be garnished with small rolls of fried bacon and slices of lemon. Time.— From 4 to 4^ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 35. Sufficient 909.— OX LIVER ROASTED. (Fr.— Foie de BceuO Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of liver, ^ of a Ib. of fat bacon, salt and pepper, Method.— Wash and dry the livrr. place it in a deep K surround it to I its depth with ho' id cover with ! (iitly for \\ hou • !!. and dredging frequenth flour highly seasoned with salt an ie process. (The bacon may be cut into dice and served as a garnish, in which « must be kept co\ ered with two or three thicknesses of greased paper while cooking otherwise it will become too crisp.) Time. — 1\ hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any tune.

9IO.-OX PALATES, STEWED. (Fr.— Palais de Boeuf.) Ingredients. \ ox-palates, i \ pints of stock, i| ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i onion, i small carrot, £ a small turnip, a bou J), 6 peppercorns, salt.

Method. — Soak the palates for several hours in salt and w press them frequently with the fingers to draw out the mucus. Wash well in 2 or 3 waters, then put the palates into a stewpan with cold water to completely cover them, heat gradually, and, before the water drain, and scrape off the rough skin which covers one side, leaving them white and clear. If the water is allowed to boil this skin i-> n 1 with great difficulty. KepKue the stewpan, add the stock, herbs, peppercorns, sliced vegetables, and salt, and simmer for 4 hours. Press lx mtil cold, then cut into Fry the butter and flour in a stewpan until a brown roux i «>n to it the stock in which the palatc> >s than f of a pint, add more to make up this put in t! of palate, and when hot serve, garnished i fully-cut vegetables.

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Time. — 20 minutes after the palates are cooked. Average Cost, 2s. Note. — The palates, after being either b'raised or stewed until tender, and pressed until cold, may be marinaded (soused in brine), and, after being drained, dipped in butter coated with egg and breadcrumbs and fried, cut into rounds, re-heated, glazed, and dished alternately with slices of cooked tomato, or stuffed with meat farce, and dresssd as olives.

911.— OX-TAIL BROILED. (Fr.— Queux de Boeuf grilles.) Ingredients. — 2 tails, i£ pints of stock, i egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, piquante sauce or good gravy, oiled butter or salad oil. Method. — Wash and dry the tails, and divide them at the joints. Put them into a stewpan with the stock, which should be highlyflavoured, otherwise vegetables and herbs must be added. Simmer gently for 2^ hours, then drain and put aside until cold. When ready, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, dip into oiled butter or saladoil, and broil over a clear fire. Serve with sauce or gravy. Cold remains may be utilized in this manner.

Time. — To stew, 2^ hours; to broil, 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sd. to 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time. 912.— OX-TAIL, STEWED. (Fr.— Queux de Boeuf.) Ingredients. — i ox-tail, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i pint of stock or water, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, i blade of mace, i sliced onion, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, salt and pepper. Method. — Wash the tail, cut it into pieces about i£ inches long, and divide the thick parts in half. Make the butter hot in a stewpan, dry the pieces of tail thoroughly, and fry them brown in the butter. Take them out of the stewpan, put in the sliced onion and flour, fry until well browned, then add the stock, bouquet-garni, cloves, mace, salt and pepper, and stir until boiling. Replace the pieces of tail, cover closely, and simmer gently for 2^- to 3 hours. Arrange the pieces of tail on a hot dish, season the sauce to taste, add the lemon-juice, and strain over them. Garnish with croutons of fried bread, or groups of cooked turnip and carrot, cut either into dice or julienne strips. Time. — From 2f to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. pd. Sufficient for THE TAILS OF ANIMALS. — The vertebral column, or backbone of the Mammalia, presents only slight modifications, and everywhere shows the same characteristics as in man, who stands at the head of this division of the animal kingdom. The length of this column, however, varies much, and the number of vertebrae of which it is composed is far from being uniform. These numerical differenc « - principally depend on the unequal development of the caudal appendage, or tail-end, of the column. Thus, the tail-forming vertebrae sometimes do not exist at all — amongst certain bats, for example, in other examples forty, fifty, and even sixty of these bones may be reckoned. Among thnumber of mammals, the tail is of little use for locomotion, except that in many cases it performs the function of a rudder, steadying the animal in his rapid movements, and enabling him to turn more easily and quickly. Among some animals it is a V-TV powerful aid to pr-u^re—ion, a> in tincase of the kangaroos and jerboas, the tail forming, with tin- hind fret, a kind of tripod from which the animal makes its spring. With most of the American monkeys, the tail is prehensile, and serves tlie animal as a fifth hand to suspend itself from the branches of trees; and lastly, among the whales, it grows to an enormous size, and becomes the principal agent for swimming.

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913.— PICKLED ROUND FOR HANGING.

(Fr. — Bceuf Marine.) Ingredients. — 74 or 16 lb. of round of beef. For the brine i Ib. of coarse salt, £ a lb. of coarse brown sugar, % an oz. of saltpetre.

Method. — Mix the salt, sugar and saltpetre together, and rub the mixture well into the meat. Keep it in an earthenware pan, turn twice a week for 3 weeks, then drain and bind into shape with strong tape. The meat may be at once cooked, or, if preferred, it may be hung in a kitchen, in which a fire is constantly kept, lor 3 weeks. Pork, hams and bacon may be similarly treated, but will require double the quantity of brine, and after being hung for 3 weeks they should be either smokedried or placed in tubs filled with dry oat -rusks.

Time. — 3 weeks in the brine, 3 weeks hung. Average Cost,.Sd. t,T lb. Seasonable at an time.

91 4. -POTTED OX-TONGUE.

Ingredients. — Cooked ox-tongue. To each lb. allow 3 ozs. of butter, powdered mace, cloves, nutmeg, cayenne.

Method. — Chop the tongue finely, then pound it well in a mortar, gradually adding clarified butter, and the above flavourings until the whole is reduced to a moist smooth paste. Rub through a fine sieve, press into pots, and cover with the remainder of the clarified THE TONGUE OF ANIMALS.— The tongue in most vertebrate animals is the organ of taste. It is composed of fleshy muscular tissue, and in man is attached by its base to the hyoid bone, but is free at its other extremity. In many nshes the muscular tissue is absent. The tongue of the parrot tribe is fleshy, but in some birds, as the wood-pecker, it serves the purpose of a dart in capturing insects, which it transnxes. The characteristic roughness of the tongue is caused by the presence of papillae, or minute spots protruding from the surface of the skin; and these in the carnivora, as the lion, tiger, etc., are large and horny, and act like a rasp in tearing off the flesh from the bones of their prey. A curious solid body is found in the under surface of the tongue of the dog, called the " worm," or " lytt.i." The top and edges are the most sensitive portions of the tongue, and the sense of touch, as well as that of taste, is highly developed. Three main sets of nerves are situated in the tongue, the gustatory and the Lingual nerves, which are connected with the sense of feeling and taste, and the hypo-glossal nerve, which acts upon the motor nerves of the muscles of the tongue. The tongue of the ox somewhat resembles that of the horse, which is sometimes substituted by dishonest dealers for the former. The deception may, however, be detected by observing the spoon-like expansion which characterizes the tongue of the horse.

915.— POTATO PASTY. (Fr.— Pat6 de Pommes de Ingredients. — $ a lb. of paste, £ of a lb. of raw lean beef cut into dice, J- of a lb. of parboiled potatoes cut into dice, i very small onion cooked and finely-chopped, pepper and salt, gravy or water.

Method.— Make the paste as directed, roll it out, keeping it as round Mix the meat, potato and onion together, season \\vll.

and m<>iM<-n with J or 3 Mbk-spoonluls of gravy or water. Place the

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meat preparation on one half of the paste, wet the edges, fold the other half over, and join neatly and securely. Prick, and bake in a moderate oven for nearly i hour, and serve either hot or cold. Time. — To bake, from 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. or Qd. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable at any time. 9I6.-PORTERHOUSE STEAK. (Fr.— Entrecote Double.) Ingredients. — A steak about i£ inches in thickness, cut from a wellhung sirloin oi beef, warm butter or salad-oil.

Method. — Brush the steak over on both sides with salad-oil or warm butter, sprinkle with pepper, and when convenient let it remain for 1 hour before cooking. Grill over a clear fire (see Grilling), and serve with maitre d hotel butter, groups of button onions fried in butter and glazed, small stuffed tomatoes, horseradish sauce, or suitable accompaniment.

.- -jCO C1.*"; T TO 917.— PYRAMIDS OF BEEF. (Fr.— Pyramides de Boeuf.) Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of finely-chopped underdone beef, i egg, a little sauce, either brown or white, i shallot finely-chopped, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped mushrooms, f- of an oz. of butter, finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper, round croutes of fried or toasted bread, about 2 inches in diameter.

Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot and onion until the former is well-browned, then put in the prepared meat, moisten with a little sauce, add the beaten egg, season rather liberally with salt and pepper, and stir over the fire for 10 or 15 minutes. If the mixture becomes too stiff add more sauce; if not stiff enough to be piled high on the croutes, cook a little longer, in order that the egg may bind more firmly. Have the croutes ready, pile the mixture upon them, tapering to a point. Sprinkle lightly with parsley, and serve as hot as possible. Time. — To cook, 10 or 1 5 minutes. Average Cost, /d. or 8d., in addition to the meat.

918.— RAGOUT OF BEEF. (Fr.— Ragout de Bceuf.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of cold roast beef (preferably underdone), 2 ozs. of butter or fat, i£ ozs. of flour, 2 onions coarsely-chopped, i carrot cut into dice, | a turnip cut into dice, i pint of stock made from bones and trimmings, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the meat into neat slices, put them aside, and boil the bones and trimmings at least 2 hours for stock. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the onion and trimmings of carrot and turnip, fry until lightly browned, then sprinkle in the flour. Stir and cook slowly until

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well-browned, put in the stock, season to taste, and stir until boiling. Boil gently for 15 minutes, then cool slightly, put in the meat, cover closely, and cook very gently for i£ hours, taking care to keep the temperature just below simmering point. Place the slices of meat on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and garnish with the vegetable dice cooked separately. A tablespoonful ot mushroom ketchup, walnut liquor, sharp sauce or vinegar, may be used to give additional flavour to the sauce.

Time. — To stew, i£ hours. Average Cost, 4d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. 9I9._ ROAST BEEF PUDDING.

Ingredients.— -\ a Ib. of cold roast beef finely-chopped, 3 ozs. of flour, i egg, £ a pint of milk, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, dripping.

Method. — Make the batter as directed for frying batter, season it with salt and pepper, and add the herbs and meat. Melt a little dripping in a piedish or deep baking-tin, put in the preparation, bake until set and nicely browned, then serve.

Time. — To bake, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, 3d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. Note. — The beef may also be prepared as for " Beef au Gratin," ami in of using scallop shells, place the meat in a basin lined with siu-t pi^t. mist. cover with paste, and strain for J hours (sic " Beef Steak Pudding."). 920.— RIBS, ROAST. (See Roast Beef.) 921.— SCOTCH COLLOPS.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of lean beefsteak, i£ ozs. of butter, i teaspoonful of flour, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped onion, £ of a pint of stock, Method. — Cut the meat into very small pieces, but do not chop it. i he butter hot in a. stewpan, fry the onion lightly, stir in the flour and cook a little longer, then add the meat and the stock, and simmer slowly for 40 minutes. Surround the dish with sippets of fried or toasted bread, and serve hot.

Time. — To cook, i hour. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. Sufficient 922.— SIRLOIN, ROAST. (See Roast Beef.) The loin of beef is popularly supposed to have received the name >m the tradition that it w.is knighted l>y K,: I at Friday Hall. < " hungry as a hunter," he bvb f beef smoking upon the table. " A noble joint," cried the king. " BY St. a title." 1 > his sword, he raised it above th<« meat, and n Loin, we dti. !><• Sir L« i. the ingt'miitv •he pl.iiu f.i< • • him, the \Vi: rig found irlongt, fourteenth «entury,

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923.— SEA PIE.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of beefsteak, f- of a Ib. of suet paste (see pastes), i small onion, i carrot, pepper and salt.

Method. — Cut the steak into thin slices about 3 inches square, put them into a shallow stewpan, season with salt and pepper, barely cover the slices with boiling water, put on the lid, and simmer gently. Slice the carrot thinly, cut the onion into small pieces, and add them to the meat. Make the paste as directed, roll it into a round rather less than the top of the stewpan. Lay this on the top of the meat when it has simmered for % an hour, replace the lid, and continue the cooking for i£ hours longer. When the pie is done, cut the paste into 4 pieces, and remove them carefully from the stewpan to a plate; arrange the meat and vegetables neatly on a hot dish, and place the crust on the top.

Time. — About 2^ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. Sufficient 924.— SLICED AND BROILED BEEF. (Fr.— Boeuf Grille aux Pomme de Terre.) Ingredients. — Slices of cold roast beef, potato ribbons, fry ing-batter' frying-fat, salad-oil or oiled butter, salt and pepper. Method. — Brush the slices of meat over with salad oil or oiled butter, broil over a clear fire, and season carefully with salt and pepper. Dip the potato ribbons into the prepared batter, fry them rather slowly in a deep pan of hot fat until crisp and nicely browned, and drain well. Place the meat on a hot dish, garnish with the potato ribbons, then Time. — To broil the meat, 5 minutes. Seasonable at any time. 925.— SMOTHERED BEEFSTEAK.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of rump steak, 3 or 4 Spanish onions, flour, salt and pepper, dripping.

Method. — Cut the onions across the stalk into rings, put them into a frying-pan in which a little dripping has been melted, and season liberally with salt and pepper. Dredge well with flour, fry until crisp and lightly-browned, then remove and keep hot. Strain the fat and return it to the frying-pan, adding more if necessary, let it become very hot, and put in the steak. Fry according to taste, turning 2 or 3 times during the process, and, when done, remove and keep hot. Drain off nearly all the fat, add to the rest as much flour as it will absorb, brown nicely, and add a little boiling water. Boil up, season to taste, simmer for 2 minutes, and strain. Place the meat on a hot dish, cover with onion, pour the gravy over, then serve.

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Time. — To fry, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. 926.— STEAK PUDDING, BAKED.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of beef steak, 4 a Ib. of ox kidney, 6 ozs. of flour, 2 eggs, | of a pint of milk, salt and pepper, dripping. Method. — Cut the steak into finger-shaped pieces, fry for a few minutes in dripping, and the kidney into rather thin slices, and season liberally with salt and pepper. Mix the eggs, milk and flour into a smooth batter (see Pastes), and season to taste with salt. Melt a little dripping in an earthenware baking-dish or pie-dish, put in £ the batter, and bake until set. Place the partially fried steak and kidney on the top of the batter, fill up the dish with the remainder of the batter, and bake until set and well-browned. Time. — To bake, about i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. lod. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time. 927.— STEAK, ROLLED. (Fr.— Tranche de Bceuf roule.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of steak, cut in i piece, J of an inch in thickness, 6 to 8 ozs. of veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), i pint of stock or water, i| ozs. of butter, i tablespoonful of flour, salt and pepper. Method. — Flatten the meat with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Let the forcemeat be rather highly seasoned, spread it on the meat, roll up tightly, and bind with tape. Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the meat, and fry quickly until the whole surface is browned, then add the hot stock or water, cover closely, and cook slowly for about 2 hours. When done, place on a hot dish, thicken the gravy with the flour, boil for 3 or 4 minutes, season to taste, and strain over the meat. Time. — About 2 hours, to cook. Average Cost, 2s. oxl. to 35. Sufficient Note. — The roll may also be baked in the oven, but it must be well basted either with stock or fat.

928.— STEWED BEEF WITH OYSTERS.

(Fr.— Bceuf aux Huitres. ) Ingredients. — Thick slices of tender underdone cold beef, 12 sauce oysters, i } ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i small onion or 2 shallots finclychnpped.; Of a pint of stock, salt and pepper.

Method. Cut the meat into pieces the size anil >hape <>i iilletst.1 71. Heat the butter in a stcupin, fry the meat quickly until lightly browned on both •*)<*, then remove and keep hot. Fry

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the onion or shallots until lightly browned, then sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook slowly until well-browned, and add the stock. Season to taste, boil gently for 15 minutes, then cool slightly and put in the meat. Cook very slowly for i hour, keeping the temperature just below simmering point, then add the flavoured oysters and their strained liquor. Cook for a very few minutes longer to plump the oysters, and serve immediately, otherwise the oysters will harden. Time. — 1£ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient — Allow i Ib. to 3 persons. Seasonable from September till 929.— STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF. (Fr.— Poitrine de Boeuf a la Bourgeoise.) Ingedients. — 6 or 7 Ib. of fresh brisket of beef, vinegar, 2 carrots £ a turnip 2 onions, 2 or 3 strips of celery, i blade of mace, 10 peppercorns, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay -leaf), i^ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, stock, salt and pepper.

Method. — Rub the meat over with vinegar and salt, and let it remain 2 or 3 hours before dressing. Put it into a stewpan just large enough to contain it, barely cover with stock, or water when stock is not available, bring to the boil and skim well. Simmer gently for i hour, then add the prepared vegetables, mace, peppercorns, bouquetgarni, and salt if required, and continue to cook as slowly as possible for 2^ hours longer, keeping the stewpan closely covered meanwhile. During the preparation of the above heat the butter in a smaller stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then put aside until wanted. When ready, take up the meat remove the bones, strain the stock, and add to it either stock or water to make up i pint. Add this to the prepared butter and flour, stir until boiling, boil gently for a few minutes, and season to taste. Serve the meat garnished with the vegetables, and the sauce separately. Time. — To stew, 3-^ hours. Average Cost, 33. 8d. to 43. Seasonable at 930.— STEWED STEAK.

Ingredients. — lib. of beefsteak, £ of a pint of stock or water, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i onion, i carrot, £ a turnip, pepper and salt. Method. — Remove the fat from the steak and put it aside until wanted, divide the lean into 5 or 6 pieces. Cut the vegetables into dice, or julienne strips, and keep them in water until required. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the steak quickly until browned on both sides, remove it, put in the trimmings of the vegetables and the flour, fry brown, then add the stock or water and stir until boiling. Replace the meat, season to taste, cover closely, and cook gently for

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about 2 hours. When done, have ready the dice or strips of vegetables boiled until tender in salted water, and the fat of the meat fried and nicely browned. Arrange the pieces of steak neatly on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, place the fat on the top, and garnish the base with groups of the prepared vegetables.

Time. — From 2-J- to 2\ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. Suffi931.— TENDERLOIN OF BEEF.

Ingredients. — A thick slice off a well-hung sirloin, salad-oil or oiled Method. — Brush the meat on both sides with salad-oil or oiled butter, grill over a clear fire until done, turning two or three times, and repeatedly brush it over with oil or butter. Season with salt and pepper, and serve with fried potatoes and Maitre d'Hutel butter, or any other accompaniments preferred.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes, according to thickness. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. per Ib.

932.— TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of beef steak (cut up small), 4 ozs. of flour, \ a pint of milk, i egg, salt, drip; Method.- Mix the Hour, milk, egg, and a little salt into a smooth batter. Put into a Yorkshire pudding tin sufficient dripping to form a thin layer when melted, pour in about \ of the batter, and bake until set. Then add the meat, season it with salt and pepper, pour in the remainder of the batter, bake quickly until it has risen and set, and then more slowly until sufficiently cooked. Serve in squares arranged neatly overlapping each other on a hot dish.

Time. — To bake, about i hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 5d. Suffi933. -TONGUE BOILED. (Fr.-Langue de Bceuf.) Ingredients. — i tongue, a bunch of savoury herbs, water. Method. — In choosing a tongue, ascertain how long it has boon dried or pickled, and select one with a smooth skin, which denotes its being young and len«' ne, and rather hard, soak it at for 12 hours previous to cooking it; if, however, the t. fresh from the pickle, 2 or 3 hours will be sufficient for it to remain in soak. Put the tongue into a stcwpan with plenty of cold water and a bunch of savoury herbs, let it gradually come to a boil, skim well, and simmer <*ntly until tenel.-r. I' 1 ofl the skin, garnish with tufts of cauliI or Brussels sprouts, an<: I'-niled tongue is frequently

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sent to table with boiled poultry, instead of ham, and is preferred by many. If the tongue is to be served cold, peel it, fasten it down to a piece of board by sticking a fork through the root, and another through the top to straighten it. When cold, glaze it, put a paper ruche round the root, and garnish with tufts of parsley. Time. — A large smoked tongue, 4 to 4^ hours; a small one, 2f to 3 hours. A large unsmoked tongue, 3 to 3^ hours; a small one, 2 to 2^ hours. Average Cost, for a moderate-sized tongue, 55. to 6s. 6d. 934.— TONGUE TO CURE. (Fr.— Langue de Boeuf Sale.) Ingredients. — For a tongue of 7 lb., i oz. of saltpetre, \ an oz. of black pepper, 4 ozs. of sugar, 3 ozs. of juniper berries, 6 ozs. of salt. Method. — Rub the above ingredients well into the tongue, let it remain in the pickle for 10 or 14 days, then drain it, tie it up in brown paper, and have it smoked for about 20 days over a wood fire. It may be boiled without smoking if liked.

Time. — From 10 to 14 days, to remain in the pickle; to be smoked Average Cost, for a medium-sized uncured tongue, 33. 6d. 935.— TOURNEDOS OF BEEF A LA COLBERT.

(Fr.— Tournedos a la Colbert.) Ingredients. — 2 lb. of fillet of beef, i oz. of butter, 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil. For the Eschalot sauce: ^ of a pint of good gravy or demi-glace sauce (No. 242), 6 finely-chopped shallots, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, % a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, i glass of sherry. For the garnish: small rounds of potato fried, and fried croutons of bread.

Method. — Cut the meat into rounds, both smaller and thinner than fillets of beef. Melt the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallots lightly, let the butter cool slightly, then strain, leave the shallots to drain, and return the butter to the saute-pan. Into a small stewpan put the gravy or demi-glace sauce, sherry, parsley, lemon-juice, the shallots when sufficiently drained, and boil until well reduced, then season to taste, and keep hot until required. Add the salad-oil to the butter in the saute-pan, and when hot put in the tournedos and fry them quickly until nicely browned. Arrange them in a circle on a border of mashed potato, put the fried rounds of potato in the centre, garnish with the croutons of fried bread, and serve the Echalot sauce in a sauce-boat, or pour round the crust.

Time. — \ an hour. Average Cost. — 45. Sufficient for 6. or 7 persons.

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936.— TOURNEDOS OF BEEF A LA SICILIAN.

(Fr. — Tournedos de Bceuf a la Sicilienne.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fillet of beef, £• of a pint of Espagnole or brown sauce, No. 244, or 233, i glass of Marsala, butter for frying, i heaped tablespoonful of shredded onion, cayenne pepper, pepper and salt, potato border.

Method. — Cut the fillets into rounds 2^ inches across and about I an inch in thickness, and season with salt and pepper. Brown the shredded onion in a little hot butter, drain free from fat, mix with the prepared sauce, and add the Marsala, Season to taste, and simmer gently until required. Broil the fillets over a clear fire, or fry them in a little hot butter, and arrange them in a close row on a border of potato. Pour a little sauce round, and serve the remainder separately. Time. — To broil or fry the fillets, from 5 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 937._TOURNEDOS OF BEEF A LA BEARNAISE.

(Fr. — Tournedos de Boeuf a la Bearnaise.

Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fillet of beef, $ of a pint of Bearnaise Sauce, No. 176, £ of a pint of demi-glace sauce, No. 242, butter if fried, salt and pepper, mashed potato.

Method. — Cut the fillet into |-inch slices, trim them into round or oval shapes 2\ inches across, and season with salt and pepper. Grill over a clear fire, or, if preferred, fry in hot butter. Cover one side with Bearnaise Sauce, arrange neatly on a potato border, and pour the demi-glace sauce round.

Time. — To fry or grill, 6 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 33. 6d. Suffi938.— TOURNEDOS OF BEEF A LA VENETIENNE.

(Fr. — Tournedos de Boeuf a la Venetienne.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fillet of beef, 6 or 8 very small tomatoes, 6 or 8 round croutes of fried bread, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of spinach or green pea puree, slices of hard-boiled white of egg, slices of truffle, } of a pint of demi-glace sauce, No. 244, salt and pepper, potato border. Method. — Scoop out a little of the pulp of the tomatoes, and Bq some of the juice. Season with salt and pepper, fill with the prepared vegetable puree, piling it high, and make thoroughly hot in the oven. Prepare the tournedos as directed in preceding recipes, grill over a clear fire, or fry in hot butter, then season them with salt and pepper, and arrange neatly on a potato border. Place the tomatoes on the croutes, lay on the top first a slice of white of egg, and then a much smaller slice of truffle. Pour the sauce round, and serve.

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Time. — To grill or fry, from 6 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, 43. 6d. to 45. 9d. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 939.— TOURNEDOS OF BEEF A LA NELSON.

(Fr. — Tournedos de Bceuf a, la Nelson.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of fillet of beef, £ of a pint of small button onions, £ of a pint of potato dice, \ a pint of Espagnole or brown sauce, No. 244, or 233, i glass of Madeira, butter for frying, frying-fat, salt and Method. — Parboil the onions in strong stock, then drain them. Cut the meat into fillets \ an inch thick and 2 inches in diameter, fry lightly in hot butter, then drain and place them separately in small casseroles, season with salt and pepper, and add the onions. Have the sauce ready in a stewpan, add the wine, season to taste, fill up the casseroles, and cook gently for about 40 minutes. Fry the potato dice in hot fat until well-browned, drain well, and add them to the contents of the casseroles TO or 15 minutes before serving.

Time. — To fryr 3 or 4 minutes; to stew, 40 minutes. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 33. Qd. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 940.— TRIPE AND ONIONS.

Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of dressed tripe, 2 large onions, \ a pint of milk* \ a pint of water, i tablespoonful of flour, i teaspoonful of salt and Method.— Cut the tripe into 3 -inch squares; put them into a stewpan, cover with cold water, bring to boiling point, and strain. Replace the tripe, add the milk, water and salt, boil up, put in the thinly-sliced onions, and simmer for 3 hours. 20 minutes before serving have the flour mixed smoothly with a little milk, pour it into the stewpan, stir until boiling, and simmer for 15 minutes. Season to taste, and Time. — About 3^ hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 941.— TRIPE A LA LYONNAISE.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold boiled tripe, 2 ozs. of butter, i large onion sliced, i heaped teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i dessertspoonful of vinegar, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the tripe into pieces 2 inches square. Heat the butter in a frying-pan, fry the onion until tender and lightly-browned, then add the prepared tripe, parsley, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. Toss over the fire for a few minutes, and serve as hot as possible. Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sufficient for 4 or 5

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942.— TRIPE, FRIED. (Fr.— Tripe Frite.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of dressed tripe, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, about £ of a pint of milk or water, salt and pepper, dripping. Method. — Mix the milk and flour into a smooth batter, adding a little more milk if the batter is too stiff to run readily from the spoon, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper. Cut the tripe into 3-inch squares, dip them into the batter, and fry them until crisp and brown in a little hot dripping in a frying-pan. Onions sliced and fried are frequently served as an accompaniment to this dish. Time. — About £ hour, to prepare and fry. Average Cost, is. 6d. 943.— TRIPE, TO DRESS.

Ingredients. — Tripe, water.

Method. — The paunch is always emptied and cleansed in the slaughter house, and seldom offered for sale in an entirely un trimmed condition. \\hen bou.L'ht in its natural state, it must be repeatedly washed, and afterwards boiled for ten hours or more, during which time the water should be changed at least three times.

944.— TO CLARIFY BEEF SUET OR FAT.

. Ingredients. — 6 Ib. of beef fat, i pint of cold water. Method. — Remove skin and sinews of the fat, then cut it into small pieces; put them with the water into an old iron saucepan, and boil until all the water has evaporated and the liquid becomes clear, and the pieces of fat light-brown and shrivelled in appearance. Stir frequently to prevent the fat sticking to the pan. When cool, strain. This amount of fat should produce 4 Ib. of clarified fat. The fat may be cooked or uncooked, and a small quantity may be more conveniently clarified in a jar in the oven.

Time. — From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, from 4d. per Ib. Quantity, 6 Ib. yields 4 Ib. of clarified fat.

945. -TO CLARIFY BEEF DRIPPING.

Put the drippini; into an old iron saucepan, cover with boiling water, and boil tu i for £ an hour. Cool slightly, then pour into an earthenware vessel, and as soon as it is cold and firm scrape the iinpuriiies from the under surface, and re-heat, to evaporate all water. If the fat is left on the water, after it is set, it will absorb some of the

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946 TO SALT BEEF. (See Recipe No. 913.) 947.— TO SALT BEEF, DUTCH WAY. (Fr.— Boeuf Sale, a la Holland aise.) Ingredients. — 10 Ib. of round or brisket of beef, i Ib. of common salt i Ib. of treacle, i oz. of saltpetre.

Method. — Rub the beef well with the treacle, let it remain for 3 days, meanwhile turning and rubbing it frequently, then drain and wipe dry. Mix the salt and saltpetre together, rub the mixture well into the meat, and turn it daily for 10 days. Roll tightly in a coarse cloth, place under heavy pressure for 2 days, and afterwards let it hang in the smoke from a peat or wood fire for 14 days. Boil or braise in the usual way, press until cold, then glaze and serve.

Time. — 29 days. Average Cost, 6£d. to pd. per Ib. Seasonable at

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SHEEP AND LAMB.

CHAPTER XVII General Observations on the various breeds, Colonial Sheep, manner of cutting up, table of prices, etc. The origin of domesticated sheep is by no means clear, although much pains has been taken by naturalists to trace their history. In •.haustive treatise on sheep by William Youatt, published in 1837, an interesting account is given of both wild and domesticated sheep, and the reader is carried back to the time of Abel, who sacrificed " the first lings of his flock." The constant allusions to sheep in the book of (HIH<IS are remarkable, and the patriarch Jacob was a successful breeder. The whiteness of the wool is emphasized in several passages of the Old Testament, and Gideon's fleece was used as a prophetic sign. Homer sang of sheep, and Moses attended the flocks of Jethro. The shepherd kings conquered Egypt, and the patriarchs were warned by their brother Joseph to speak of themselves to Pharaoh as understanding " cattle " because "every shepherd is an abomination unto the Egyptians." Nevertheless a few verses on we read that when Pharaoh asked What is your occupation ? " the honest reply was " Thy servants are shepherds, both we and also our fathers." Sheep in that early period were in many respects similar to what they are now. The most esteemed wool was white, the lambs and rams were fat. the flocks were tended, washed, shorn and milked. Lambs without spot or blemish were sacrificed to Jehovah, and rams' skins dyed red were UM -d in embellishing the Tabernacle of the congregation. WILD SHEEP.

Truly wild sheep such as Ovis ammon or argae, Ovis tnusmon, etc., do not appear to be the progenitors of Ovis aries or the domesticated sheep, the wild types of which seem to have disappeared completely. roat naturalist Darwin was unable to throw any light on the of our sheep, and despairingly remarks: " Most authors look at our di.imstii: sheep as descended from several distinct species. Mr.

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Blyth, who has carefully attended to this subject, believes that fourteen wild species now exist, but that not one of them can be identified as the progenitor of any one of the interminable domestic races. M. Gervais thinks that there are six species of Ovis, but that our domestic sheep form a distinct genus now completely extinct. Dr. L. Fitzinger believes that our sheep descend from the aboriginally distinct species, of which only one is now living in a wild state. Another ingenious observer, though not a naturalist, with a bold defiance of everything known on geographical distribution, infers that the sheep of Great Britain alone are the descendants of eleven endemic forms " (Darwin's "Animals and plants under Domestication "). It would evidently be foreign to our present object to describe any truly wild sheep, as they are not known to be in any way connected with domestic sheep, except biologically or generically. DOMESTICATED SHEEP.

No doubt these are descended from wild forms, which at an early period in human history were reclaimed and domesticated, and it is probable that the original types were fitted for the purposes of man and capable of improvement. Zoologically, they belonged to the great natural order RUMINANTIA, and to the division of the hollowhorned ruminants, among which are to be found oxen, antelopes and goats (capridae). The Ovidae are closely related to the Capridae, but have no beard, and differ in voice and habits. The peculiar bleat of the sheep is common to all races, as is also their dense covering of wool. In some races the wool is largely mingled with hair, and it is certain that the fineness and whiteness of the wool is the result of careful breeding for probably thousands of years. Many unimproved breeds are parti-coloured, as was evidently the case in the time of Jacob, where we read of " ring-straked, spotted and speckled." It is proverbial that there is a black sheep in every flock, and the constant recurrence of black, grey and reddish fleeces even in the most carefully bred flocks attests the fact that at one time they were much more common than now. Many lambs are born black or dark in colour, although they grow white later in life, and this is in accordance with the observation that young animals often exhibit markings and peculiarities of very remote ancestors.

If we confine ourselves to British races of sheep we shall find among them almost every characteristic of the domesticated animal. Many of them are horned, as in the cases of the Highland black-faced breed, the Lonk, the Crag or Limestone, the Dorset and the old Wiltshire breed. Others are hornless, like the Leicesters, Lincolns, Downs, Oxfords and Shropshires, but in all breeds there are occasional rudimentary or defective horns known as " snags." There can be no doubt that all our breeds were originally horned. The faces and shanks are white, black, piebald, grey or russet, according to race,

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHEEP 545 and the fleeces are long, medium, short, close or open, fine or coarse. THE PRINCIPAL BREEDS.

If we take a survey from the extreme north to the south coast, \\c shall iind the following races of sheep in possession. The remoter parts of Scotland, such as the islands of Arran, Islay, Jura, the Orkneys and Shctlands are still inhabited by sheep- of small size of various colours, some being dun-faced, others white-faced and horned, others dark, black, or russet in colour. These are apparently indigenous, or, as in the case of Shetland sheep, derived from Scandinavia. Shetland wool is well known for its fineness, and is esteemed for the manufacture of shawls, stockings, and for all light woollen manufactures. Argyllshire and most of the black or heath lands of the Highlands, are now stocked with the Heath or Black-faced breed, which is aimed in both with horns. The faces and legs are black and white, clearly defined; the fleece is long and mixed with hair along the back; the form is short and the general character active, bold and hardy. They "ii grass and heather, and the flesh derives a pleasant flavour from the latter. The black-faced sheep has displaced the original smaller breeds throughout the Highlands, and as far south as Dumfriesshire. It occupies the extensive moors of Northumberland extends into Derbyshire, and it is highly esteemed in the mountainous regions of N. Wales.

The Cheviot breed of sheep is short woollcd and usually hornless. Its original home is the Great Cheviot, but it is largely kept on the 1.< >wlands, both north and south of Cheviot. This sheep is extremely hardy, and does well upon the lower ranges of the Scotch Highlands wherever grass abounds; but when heather takes the place 01 the black faces predominate. A cross between Cheviot and BonU-rLcicestcr is much in favour throughout the Lowlands, and in the northern counties of England.

The Border-Leicester is well known in Berwickshire, Roxburgh and Northumberland, both as a pure breed and for crossing with both Cheviot and black-faced ewes. The former gives an excellent which fattens more rapidly than the Cheviot. The latter gives the " mule " or Mash.im sheep, which thrives well upon the poorer classes of grass land in Yorkshire, Durham and Northumberland. In Yorkshire the true Leicester occurs in perfection, but this 1 o found in its native county, and is the premier breed of the country in point of age as its improvement was carried out by Robert Bakowell of Dishlcy, Loughborough, in the middle years of the eighteenth century. The Improved Leicester breed has been more < sivcly used than any other long woolled race in improving other breeds of similar character of wool. The improved Lincoln. Romney Marsh. Kentish long-wools, Devon long-wools and Cotswolds were all crossed with ! ^'u\ the earlier years of the last century or previously. T

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The mutton is rather coarse and the fat is laid on too thickly; but for crossing purposes the breed has been very useful. In Lincolnshire the Improved Lincoln is the predominant breed, especially in the low-lying rich lands of the south. It is a white-faced hornless breed, and in this respect closely resembles the Leicester. It is of much larger size, and is probably the heaviest sheep in the world. Lincoln sheep have often attained a weight of 90 Ib. a quarter or 360 Ib. carcass weight, while their wool has been known to measure 23 inches in length, and the fleeces have scaled as heavy as 23 Ib. of wool. This sheep is adapted for the rich marshes of the fen districts, and requires good land. Its wool has received the appellation of " lustre," from its glistening brilliance where severed from the body. The Lincoln sheep is too heavy in the carcass and too fat to please the taste of epicures. In the days when wool sold at is. 6d. to 2s. a pound, a Lincoln teg in his wool was worth ^5, and even now Lincoln rams from the best flocks have been sold for hundreds of pounds each. There is a great export trade for the rams to Argentina and Australia, as the Lincoln-Merino is a profitable cross, combining the properties of both flesh and wool to a high degree.

In the Midlands of England Shropshire sheep are the favourite breed. They are of composite origin, being derived from Shropshire ewes crossed successively with Leicester and South Downs. They now constitute an established race of medium woolled, dark-faced, hornless sheep, of thick and substantial form, and yielding mutton of superior quality.

The Oxford breed was originally derived by crossing Cotswolds and Hampshire Downs, and the produce were long known as cross-breds. The credit is due to the late Mr. John Twynam, and the Messrs. Druce of Eynsham. The Oxfords are not so widely distributed as the Shropshires, but they breed largely in Oxfordshire and contiguous counties. In many respects they resemble Shropshires, but are easily distinguished by their longer ears and freedom from wrinkles on the neck and around the under-jaw.

The Cotswold breed of sheep has long been associated with the Cotswold hills, which rise above Cheltenham and extend through north Gloucestershire into Oxfordshire and Worcestershire. It is an upstanding, white-faced, hornless sheep, with a boldly curling fleece, and, like all the heavy breeds of long-woolled sheep, its mutton does not command the highest price. It is however highly esteemed upon its native hills, and is no doubt the result of Leicester crosses upon the older breed which occupied Cotswold.

Among other long-woolled sheep, the Devon long wools, the Kentish long wools, the Romney Marsh and the Worsleydale all deserve notice, and all three closely resemble Lincoln sheep.

DOWN BREEDS.

The South Down or Sussex Down stands out pre-eminently as the best

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHEEP 547 known of all the Down races of sheep. It was improved by the elder and younger Ellmans of Glynde, and was considered in the time of George III to be a perfect sheep for wool and mutton, size and quality. Four-year-old South Down mutton was the food of kings and nobles, and is still unrivalled except by some of the smaller \Yclsh and Devon breeds. The South Down is a hornless sheep with fawn-coloured face and legs. His form is singularly compact, and his carcass is always heavier than it looks. His original home is the Sussex Downs, north of Brighton, and it is there that he attains the highest perfection. The breed has always been a favourite, and King Edward VII is a breeder of excellent South Downs. So was the late Duke of Kuhmond, the present Lord Walsingham, and many distinguished gentlemen. After the Kllmans, the late Jonas Webb, of Babrah.im. Cambridgeshire, deserves special notice as an improver of this invaluable bir< -<l of sheep. What the Leicester sheep was to the older longwoolled races of sheep, the South Down has been to the numerous Down breeds, which in the time of Youatt occupied every chalk county in England. At that time Kent, Essex, Bucks, Berks, Surrey, Sussex, Hants, etc., all boasted breeds of Down sheep, but the South Down left an impress which obliterated most of these distinctions. He was crossed repeatedly upon the flocks of these counties, including Hampshire and Wilts, and the consequence is that at the present tim • there are only three types of Downs, namely, the Sussex Down, the Hampshire Down, and the Suffolk Down, all of which owe their perfection to I with the South Down. The same is true of Shropshire and Oxford sheep, so that the Sussex Down must be credited with having improved all the Down breeds of the country.

Hampshire Downs. — These were formerly called West-country Downs, because they were originally found west of the South Downs upon he chalk hills of Hampshire. They were freely crossed with South ! and notably by Mr. Humphries of Oakash, Berks, who is look^ '. upon as the immediate founder of the Improved Hampshire Down.: is of larger build than the South Down and darker features. The best arc almost black in face and legs, hornless (as every breed in in this review not described as horned may be assumed to be), and well rovercd upon tin- head with white wool. "Well coloured and well covered " is one of the watchwords of the Hampshire Down r; and sheep which can be so described are always admired. They an very hardy and well suited for the high and exposed uplands of Wilts and Hants. Tiny arc however by no means confn: but arc found cither pure or crossed in all parts of the country. Hampslr have recently made 100 guineas each, •tnd (! higher price. They yield cood fleeces and fin mutton, and are every inu in favour for exportation. Suffolk Downs.- The Sultolk nun arc justly proud of their « ounty ilthouuh tin-re can be little doubt that it \vaj e

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with the Sussex Down, is now a distinct or constituted breed. The distinguishing features are black faces and black shanks, and the head is bare of wool even behind the ears. This at once distinguishes them from Hampshire Downs. They have no horns, and the wool and mutton are of excellent quality. There is no better breed, but space scarcely allows of extended remarks upon this, the third true Down sheep requiring rotice.

The Dorset Horn. — The Dorset horned sheep is chiefly found in South Hants, the Isle of Wight and on the south coast. It is a white-faced breed, horned in both sexes, and covered with fine white wool. Its chief distinction lies in the fact that it produces the earliest lamb for the London market. The ewes drop their lambs in September and later, and the greatest pains is taken in order to provide fat lambs about Christmas. This form of sheep-farming requires a breed adapted to the purpose and a favourable climate, and both these conditions are supplied by the Dorset sheep and the Dorsetshire soil. MOUNTAIN AND FOREST BREEDS.

The Scotch black faces have already received attention, and must rank as the widest in distribution of any mountain or forest breed. As. however, several of the less known breeds are highly appreciated for the fineness of their flesh, and its delicate and close-grained quality, a short space must be devoted to them. Welsh mutton stands high in public estimation, and is furnished by the small white-faced hornless sheep of the Principality, which attains a weight of 9 to 10 Ib. a quarter.

Dartmoor and Exmoor Sheep. — Although the sheep of Dartmoor and Exmoor have been modified by Leicester crosses, there still remains the original small-horned white-faced sheep, which resembles a diminutive Dorset, weighing 9 to 12 Ib. per quarter. This produces the celebrated Okehampton mutton, which always commands a high price in London.

Clun Forest Sheep, etc. — These are a white-faced hornless breed of small size, and may be named in connexion with the black- faced horned Long Mynd breed, and fine-woolled Morfe common horn; <1. speckled-faced sheep, which is said to have been used in bringing out the better known Shropshire breed of sheep.

The Herdwick Sheep. — This is a race which is cultivated in Westmoreland, Cumberland and the Lake district. It is highly popular in these districts, and the lambs are born with black heads and 1< vt. but gradually become white as they grow older. Horns arc not essential, although they arc frequent in the rams, but the ewes are hornl. s;. The Herdwick sheep exhibited at Chester in 1893 were often dark in the wool, and the second prize ram was nearly black. Swart liinoss in the wool did not appear to disqualify in the eyes of the judges. Lonk Sheep. — These sheep resemble the Scotch black-faced breed,

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHEEP 549 but their wool is much finer, probably due to South Down crosses at an early period.

Crag or Limestone Sheep. — Both sexes are horned, and the faces* shanks and fleeces are white. They stand drought remarkably well, and do not require water. They are found upon the mountain limestone tracts of West Yorkshire and East Lancashire, and form a striking contrast to the Lonks, which do better upon the damper and lower grounds of these dales.

Welsh Sheep. — These are very various in character. Some arc white faced and furnished with horns, while others are hornless. The best type of Radnors are black-faced, and the rams are horned. They are all of small size, and are esteemed for the superior quality of their mutton. Small joints and a weight of from 9 to 14 or 15 Ib. a quarter, coupled with meat of a fine grain and dark colour, are their principal attractions.

Reviewing these numerous breeds of sheep, it is interesting to inquire the reasons why they differ from each other so widely. There can be no doubt that several of these races spring from distinct species which at one time existed in the wild state. Domestication, however, always tends to variation of type, as was originally pointed out by the naturalist Pallas. No sooner is an animal or plant placed under artifu ial conditions than it ceases to breed true. This fact is proved by domesticated animal and cultivated plant. Even our pets, such as cage-birds, pigeons, poultry, dogs, cats, rabbits, mice, rats, etc., produ.-.young which break into new colours and new properties. The uniformity of Nature is disturbed and variation is the result, and that in almost every conceivable direction. It is the same with cultivated plants, and is due, in a word, to artificial conditions. Still, the natural disposition of like to produce like holds good, and as a consequence the peculiarity or variation is continued and may be exaggerated by selection. In the next place, crossing established, sub-varieties, producing still more forms, and the breeder's art assisted in dev< 1 those characters which he desired to see perpetuated. Selection and crossing are answerable for a large number, if not all. of our races, but soil and climate are still always acting in further modifying types. It is remarkable that domesticated animals as well as plants which have escaped from artificial restraint, gradually return to their original type, or at least to uniformity of colour, size and habits. In sheep the principal objects of the breeder are the development of flesh and wool, but in this treatise meat is of the greater importance. Quality of Mutton. — The best mutton is generally associated with the smaller breeds of sheep, on account of the finer texture of the muscular fibres which constitute the lean meat. These small sheep arc found win- re the herbage is short, sweet and varied, and where the animal must exert itself to find its food. Exercise leads to muscular development, and is unfavourable to the accumulation of mass of fat. The

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flesh closely resembles venison or game, and is rich in muscle (lean), and not disfigured by fat. Hence all mountain and heath sheep produce a high quality of mutton. Short wool and fine mutton generally go together, and in most of the best mutton races the face and shanks are coloured black, brown or grey. The Down breeds have all roamed over sweet and scant herbage for centuries, and have acquired a muscular development and fineness of fibre common to them all. The long-woolled races above described have developed heavier fleeces, larger frames, and coarser flesh by grazing on rich lowlands, and by artificial feeding in winter. They lay their fat on externally on their backs and loins, and never handle so firmly as Down or Forest-bred sheep. The two classes of long-woolled and short-woolled sheep differ in the following points: — Long-Woolled Sheep. Short-Woolled Sheep.

Heavier carcasses. Lighter carcasses.

Longer wool. Shorter wool.

White faces and shanks. Brown faces and shanks.

Coarser mutton. Finer mutton.

Fat, external and unduly de- Fat, internal and better mixed with veloped. the lean.

Adapted for lowlands. Adapted for highlands.

Age has a great deal to do with the quality of meat, as is well shown by the expression " four-year-old mutton." This is considered the age for producing the highest quality of dark-grained tender flesh, but the exigencies of modern farming have rendered it necessary to lower the age, and most mutton is now killed at from ten to sixteen months old. In parks and demesnes it is still usual to hold back the smaller wethers to grow slowly into mutton for the private table of their wealthy owners.

Sex too is important. Wether mutton, or the flesh of the castrated male, is in the highest repute, although scarcely superior to young female mutton. Rams are always coarse in flesh and of inferior value after six months old, and acquire a strong flavour. Ewe mutton is also inferior, not on account of its age, which is generally only three or four years, but because bearing and suckling lambs dries the flesh and renders it less juicy and palatable.

Feeding exercises a very marked effect upon the meat. Turnips and oil-cake develop fat to an undue degree, and impart a coarseness not found in grass- or mountain-fed meat.

Lamb is always highly esteemed and commands a high price. It should be milk-fed and fattened while with the dam. The fat of lambs is never distasteful.

The best weight for carcasses is from 16 to 20 Ib. per quarter, and heavy mutton is always less saleable. Some of the most esteemed

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON LAMBS 551 mutton is from the smaller breeds, which only scale from 9 to 15 Ib. per quarter, and the legs only about 4^ Ib.

Foreign Mutton. — New Zealand Mutton and Canterbury Lamb are now sold everywhere at prices much below English-grown meat. The freezing process to which the carcasses are subjected does not improve the quality of the meat, and there is a good deal more shrinkage in cooking. There is some prejudice among many people against it, which may be well-founded. It certainly is cheap, while the best qualities of English mutton maintain their price. The effect upon the price of second and third qualities of home-produced meat has been more pronounced.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON LAMBS.

The lambing season in this country commences with the new year. In all high-class flocks where rams are bred, and in all flocks where the production of fat lamb is a principal object, lambing must be early, and in some cases is well forward by Christmas. The natural disposition is, no doubt, for ewes to produce young in the spring, but in the artificial conditions in which domestic sheep are placed, some breeds will lamb as early as September and October. Among these, Dorset ewes are the best known, and arc the source of the earliest lamb which supplies the London market. Lambs are wonderfully hardy, and upon the Wiltshire and Hampshire Downs are to be seen playing around the lambing pens in large numbers in January and February. For the first three weeks or so they require shelter from bitter winds and driving snow, and this is easily provided by thatched hurdles and ricks of straw or hay, conveniently placed to give the necessary " succour." This in fact constitutes the " lambing pen," which is a temporary erection of the nature indicated. It is often of large size and divided into straw-littered courts for the latest dropped and the stronger lambs, according to age. The twin lambs require more shelter and care than the robuster single lambs. When fat lambs are the object, the ewes arc liberally supplied with oil-cake and corn, in order to stimulate the flow of milk, and at the earliest possible age the lambs are encouraged to feed out of small troughs upon finely-ground linseed cake and split peas or beans. They are llowed to run forward through lamb creeps, in order to crop the" turnip greens, early rye, and other succulent herbage. Everything is done to develop flesh, and at this stage lambs will increase in weight at the rate of i Ib. per day. At ten or twelve weeks old such lambs will weigh of dressed carcass about 10 to 12 Ib. per quarter. HampDown lambs are well suited for the purpose of providing early lamb, but several other breeds may be successfully employed for the same purpose. On the south coast and in the Isle of Wight the raising of fat lambs is a special industry, and the ewes are timed to drop their

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lambs in September. In many cases the lambs are placed in houses,, and the ewes are allowed frequent access to the lambs, but do notfemaifl constantly with them. Lambs command a high price in the early months oi the new year, but as the season progresses they gradually approximate tb mutton price, so that the great object of the; pfodtfce* of fat lambs is to market his lambs as soon as possible. In the £arly part of the season, however reared, lamb is, in London, and indeed generally, sold in quarters, divided with 12 ribs to the forequarter; but, a^ the season advances, these are subdivided into two, and the hind-q,uarter -in the same manner; the first consisting of the shoulder and'^he' fleck and breast, the latter of the leg and the loin — as shown in the cut illustrative of mutton. As lamb, from the juicy nature of its flesh, is especially liable to spoil in unfavourable weather, it should be frequently wiped, so as to remove any moisture which may have formed on it.

Price of Meat. — In calculating the selling price of any meat, what is called the " offal," i.e., the skin and inside, are calculated into the price" of the animal. The price of any commodity, and of meat dead or alive, may be seen quoted every day in the newspaper market lists; and it would be well if consumers studied and understood these a little better than is usually the case. Another fact they might learn with advantage is the difference of price between the best meat and the second or third quality. Very few persons eat always the best meat,, for the reason that it is not sufficiently plentiful, and perhaps ever* fewer people pay second-best prices or expect to pay them. As already pointed out, second quality meat does not necessarily mean unwholesome meat, or indeed worse meat than most people are contented with.

Season for Mutton. — Mutton is in season all the year round, different counties producing sheep for the market at various seasons; but just as beef is said to be in its prime when French beans are in, i.e., when the pastures are greenest and freshest, so mutton is in best condition when grass is plentiful, rather than when it is fattened entirely on roots and cake.

Mutton is often thought more digestible than beef, and is therefore prescribed for invalids, but a matter such as this must be decided by individual idiosyncrasy rather than rule. It is always thought to be less satisfying, and as it is impossible to buy a solid lump of boneless mutton, it is no doubt, on that account also, less economical, Relative Cost. — In reckoning the cost of various joints as compared with one another, we have assumed that leg and loin are the same price, and that 18 ozs. of either can be bought for a shilling, and that I ho shoulder and best end of the neck arc both sold at 20 ozs. (i^ Ib.) for a shilling. The loin has more bone than the leg, 3 ozs. instead of 2| ozs. in each shilling's worth of meat, and the loin also is very fat, §p tha.t although it is nice it is not cheap. The shouldef has ihc saim-

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON LAMBS proportion of bone as -the loin, and the neck most of all, 4 ozs. in every shilling's worth of meat, and is even fatter than the loin. Boiled or roasted, the neck is not a very cheap joint; but trimmed into cutlets, with all the fat removed, it is probably the dearest butchers' meat that can be eaten. Competition remains at length between 15^ ozs. of leg against 17 ozs. of shoulder. The shoulder is fatter, it is true, and if it is sold at the same price as the leg, is dearer in every way. Sold at the pri have quoted, it appears to be as cheap as, or cheaper than, the leg if the fat is eaten. Children often dislike fat, and so it is cheaper to pay a little more for a lean joint for children. On the other hand, many people dislike a shoulder of mutton, and prefer a leg. TABLE OF RELATIVE PRICES OP BEEF AND MUTTON. AT PER STONE WHOI.KS.M.I-:, AND VER POUND RETAIL. Pri(. Ti,i Second Third nd First.ity. Utility. Uu-i!. ity. (Juolity. s. d. S. d. 5. d. s. d. «. •/. «. J. «. d. o i ! o o 71 o xojo 9J o 41 o 71 o io| 4 <> 0 (>} o 8J o oj o 4i o 71 o io| o 7 o 9 o 5 o 8 o 7* o 9J o 51 o 8J oil} 5 ^ o 7* 0 IOJ o 5i o ni o 71 o 9} 0 10} o 51 o 8J O 11} o 8 O 10 0 It o 6 o 9 o 8J o 10} O IlJ o 6| o 9£ o|o 8i 0 !•> I o 6i o 9i °i 5 i" o 8} 0 IOJ o 11} o 6| o 9] ol o o o 7 O 10 •6 2 oj o o 10} I [ o 9i O Il| oi o ioi •6 6 o 9! o 11} o 7i o loj '6 8 O 10 o 8 O II • 6 10 0} o 81 2\ 7 o o ioi oi o 8| o ni o ioj oj Ij o 8} 0 Ilf o 9 J 0 IlJ It H 0 9( °t 7 s o III N O 9| oi 7 i° O IlJ 1} o 9l oj 8 o I O O IO The prices of meat per pound, in nl.ition to the market price per stone of S 11)., may be calculated sufficiently near to give a tolcr.ibly

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correct idea what the buyer should pay for meat from different parts of the ox or sheep, according to the market price. The butcher pays a certain price per stone for the whole carcass; but as the different joints of the sheep or bullock differ considerably in quality, and are classed respectively as PRIME, MIDDLING and INFERIOR parts, the prices of the several parts are raised or lowered by the butcher, above or below the average market price per stone, so that all classes of purchasers may be suited, and the sale of all parts of the animals secured. Of course, the butcher takes care to regulate his prices so as to secure a remunerative profit on his outlay. PRIME parts of beef are sirloins, ribs and rounds; of mutton, legs and loins. MIDDLING pieces of beef are top ribs, back ribs, and silverside; of mutton, shoulders. INFERIOR pieces of beef are shins, brisket and flank, clod, or shoulder, sticking piece, or neck; of mutton, necks and breasts. The prices given in the table are such as would be paid for meat of the best quality. The table is constructed so as to range from 45. 2d. to 8s. per stone inclusive at an increase of 2d. per stone, or £d. per pound on the wholesale market prices.

The Mode of Slaughtering Sheep is, perhaps, as humane and expeditious a process as could be adopted to attain the objects sought; the animal being laid on its side in a sort of concave stool, the butcher, while pressing the body with his knee, transfixes the throat near the angle of the jaw, passing the knife between the windpipe and bones of the neck, thus dividing the jugulars, cartoids, and large vessels, death taking place very rapidly from the haemorrhage which follows. Manner of Cutting up. — Almost every large city has a particular manner of cutting up, or, as it is called, dressing the carcass. In London this process is very simple, and as our butchers have found that much skewering back, doubling one part over another, or scoring the inner cuticle or fell, tends to spoil the meat and shorten the time it would otherwise keep, they avoid all such treatment. The sheep then is hung up and the carcass flayed (which operation is performed while yet warm). After separating the hind from the fore quarters, with eleven ribs to the latter, the quarters are usually subdivided in the manner shown in the accompanying illustration. HlND-QUARTER. FORE-QUARTF.R.

I Leg. 4. Best end of neck.

2. Loin. 5. Scrag end of neck.

3. Chump end of loin. 6 and 8. Shoulder and blade-bone. (i) Leg. — This is the most economical joint for a family if it is sold, as is usual, at only one penny a pound more than the shoulder, for unless there is a considerable difference in price, it docs not compensate

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHEEP 555 for the greater proportion of bone in other joints. The leg of a sheep is roughly reckoned to weigh as many pounds as the whole sheep weighs in stones. Legs can be bought of all weights, from about 5 Ib. to 6 Ib. Mutton steaks are cut from the leg. (2) Loin. — This is considered the best roasting joint. Two loins together make a saddle; rather a wasteful joint, because of the way it is carved. The upper part of the loin and leg together form a haunch. Chump chops are cut near the tail, where the proportion of bone is greater.

(3) Chump end of Loin. — Cut with the loins for a saddle, always roasted, or in chops for broiling.

(4) Best end of the Neck. — Roasting, boiling, or for mutton cutlets. Small mutton is best for cutlets.

(5) Scrag end of the Neck. — Broth, stews, or boiling. A low-priced joint, not very fat, but very bony and wasteful. (6 and 8) Shoulder. — Often sold divided, for roasting. It is preferred by many persons to the leg, but is not so economical, and is fatter.

(7) Breast. — Often sold at a cheap rate for stewing or boiling. Too fat for many persons, but often economical.

Besides these joints, the following parts of the sheep are sold for (9) Head. — Sometimes sold with the pluck, but more often alone. Can be boiled, and made into most excellent broth — Scotch people generally use it for this — or braised, and is usually an economical dish, but its price varies very greatly.

(10) Heart. — Sometimes sold separately, and sometimes with the rest of the " pluck," consisting of liver, lights and heart. Sheep's liver can be fried or made into soup. The heart is best roasted. The whole of the pluck is frequently eaten. In Scotland it is made into " haggis." Probably the cheapest form of butcher's meat. (n) Kidneys. — Broiled or stewed. A very common breakfast dish. The kidney is often sold with the loin.

(12) Feet, or " trotters," as they are generally called in London, where they are bought in the markets at 4 a penny, and after being cleaned and boiled are retailed at a halfpenny and a penny each. Seldom eaten in the south of England except by the very poor. (13) Mutton suet is better than beef for frying, because it is less likely to burn, but it is not so good for puddings. Mode of Cutting up Lamb. — Lamb, when large, is cut into the same joints as mutton; when small, it is sold in quarters; the leg and loin to the hind, and the shoulder, breast and neck to the fore -quart or. Lambs' sweetbreads are considered a delicacy, and are expensive. Lambs' fry consists of the liver, sweetbread, some of the inside fat or " leaf," and the heart.

Lamb's kidney, lamb's head and lamb's trotters are also eaten.

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The fore-quarter of lamb is, by many persons, preferred; but the leg, here, as in mutton, is more economical. Howevei, few persons eat lamb except as a luxury, and so questions of economy are more or less out of place. A good deal of lamb is now imported from New Zealand, and is slightly cheaper than the home grown. The brand known as " Canterbury " is the best. Lamb is to be had in London from Christmas until late autumn. It is dear and scarce from January to March, gets cheaper through the summer months, from Easter to July or August; and -late in the season, as far on as October, lamb is still sent southwards from Scotland.

All young meat is less nourishing, and is said to be less digestible than that which is full-grown; but lamb has a better reputation in this respect thari veal. Lamb should not be in the least high; and if, therefore, it has to be kept, it should be partly cooked, such being the most certain way to preserve it from taint. TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS PARTS OF GIVING THE ACTUAL COST OF THE EATABLE PORTIONS OF THE VARIOUS JOINTS AFTER DEDUCTING LOSS IN WEIGHT FROM WASTE AND BONE BY DIFFERENT MODES OF COOKING. Mutton will be seen to waste more in cooking than other meats. Some of the larger joints are the cheapest, the saddle losing less than the loin, while the leg is one of the most economical. How usually before when loss Cost per Ib.

after cooking, bone a.'id waste !->Tifertf no oz.

s. d.

s. d.

3 o o 8 Chump chop. '.

' o 8] Haunch. v * 'i ' Head. -UKR* -/* w. o 5 I O Heart. ^,:j?v,y o 14 o 9 loj Kidneys...

o 9 5t Lee Boiled'' Vr IO O O I O Les ki O I O 51 ^ 4t\ O IO „ (chop)...

A J O 12 \J o 8* Z I Neck (best end).. O IO „ (scrag end) o 14 o 7 Saddle....

O IO 4 o o 9 o 14 o 8

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SHEEP NOTE. — For the purpose of the table the prices per Ib. for head, heart, kidneys and tongue is given. These parts are, however, nearly always sold irrespective of weight, and the folio wing are average prices: — Head, 8d. each; heart, sd. (frozen), id. each; kidneys, 4d. (frozen), id. each; tongue, 4d. each. By most butchers the shank-bone of a leg of mutton is weighed with the joint, the result being an increase of weight without value, but it is nevertheless an economical joint, as there is no waste in its carving, whereas against a loin must be reckoned the less of meat left upon the bones, and that so often caused by an undue preponderance of fat. TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN, AND WASTE IN JOINTS OF MUTTON. htof.'. ll'.'M htof Loss of weight by T..U1 lit Of mat; Ib. or.

Ib. or.

Ib. ox.

Ib. or.

Ib. ot.

I launch.... i * i^ 3 o •• 1 !!.•-!)... 3 o 7 o S 2 i i '.

4 o Sa.Mlr.... O 12 4 o TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS PARTS OF GIVING THE ACTUAL COST OF THE EATABLE PORTIONS OF THE Di ENT PARTS, AFTER DEDUCTING Loss OF WEIGHT FROM \\ AND BONE, BY DIFFERENT MODES OF COOKING. How usually t; n QOOid.:

«;. • 1. i i • -1 •A • tfl i !u ', i; • p r 1!-.

.\V' •.: • PT Ib.

m -'k(-i <: mat.

Cost per Ib. rooking, bone icted.

:iarttT Hind-quarter Ib. or.

2 O 9 o Ib. or.

9. d.

O 10 o <L 4t 9\ A?

(in cutlets (scrag)..} o.,1.

O IO., o 8 * The foot being generally weighed with the Leg of Lamb, makes this joint an expensive one.

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TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN, AND WASTE IN JOINTS OF LAMB. joint when Loss of weight by eatable matter. o 8 O IO Fore-quarter. Hind-quarter. O O o 8 o 8 O II I ^ Lee 4, 8 O I "^ o 15 Neck (in cutlets) '. T" "

u A j o 6J o 3 O f)\ o 9^ „ (scrag)... o 6* o ij o s"

o 13 o 13 The prices given for lamb are those when it is in full season. In winter that called House Lamb is considerably dearer, and sometimes even till after Easter the price of lamb continues high.

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FOR COOKING LAMB CHAPTER XVIII 948.— BREAST OF LAMB, MILANAISE STYLE.

(Fr. — Poitrine d'Agneau a la Milanaise.) Ingredients. — A breast of lamb, a mirepoix of vegetables (see " Shoulder of Lamb, Braised "), stock, 6 ozs. of macaroni, i tables.poonful of grated cheese, i or 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, £ an oz. of butter, salt and p pper.

Method. — Prepare and cook the lamb as directed (see " Shoulder of Lamb, Braised "). Break the macaroni into 2-inch lengths, throw it into boiling salted water, boil rapidly for 10 minutes, then drain well. Replace in the stewpan, cover with hot stock, and cook gently until tender, keeping the stewpan uncovered in order that the unabsnrl.i-d stork may evaporate. Just before serving stir in the butt IT. cheese and white sauce, and season to taste. Arrange neatly in t lucent re of a hot dish, and place the meat on the top. Serve with a suitable sauce or thickened gravy.

Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 8d. to lod. per Ih. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons, according to size. Seasonable from April to 949. -BREAST OF LAMB, TURKISH STYLE.

(Fr.— Poitrine d'Agneau a la Turque.) Ingredients. — A breast of lamb J of a Ib. of sausage-meat, £ of a pint of demi-glace sauce or a mild curry sauce (see Sauces). For the mirepoix, or foundation: £ of a pint ol stock, 2 onions, 2 carrots, | a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 ozs. of butter. For the rice border: 6 ozs. of Patna rice, i large onion, i£ ozs. of butter, i£ pints of white stock, salt and pepper, and, ii liked, a pinch of saflron, may be added.

Method. Remove the bones, flatten the meat with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin, suason well with s.ilt and pepper, spread on thcsausagcmcat, roll up tightly, and hind securely with string. Slice the vegetables,

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and put them into a large stewpan with the butter, place the meat on the top, cover, and cook gently for about 20 minutes, then add the herbs, peppercorns, and stock to nearly cover the vegetables. Place a buttered paper over' the meat, put on the lid, and braise for 2 hours. Heat i-J- ozs. of butter in a stewpan, add to it the onion finelychopped, and fry for about 15 minutes without browning. Wash and blanch the rice, drain well, then add it, together with the stock, to the onions, season to taste, cover with a buttered paper and the lid, and simmer gently until the rice is tender and dry. Place the meat in a hot dish, pour the demi-glace or curry-sauce over, arrange the rice in the form of a border, and serve.

Time. — 2^ hours, to cook the meat. Average Cost, 8d. to lod. per Ib. THE LAMB AS A SACRIFICE.— Lambs were used in considerable numbers by the Hebrews in the sacri'ices. Two lambs " of the first year " were appointed to be daily offered at the morning and evening sacrifice, and a lamb served as a substitute for the firstborn of unclean animals, as the ass, which could not be accepted as an offering to the Lord. On the anniversary of the Passover, one of the three great annual festivals of the Israelites, celebrated from the i4th to the 2ist of the month Nisan, to commemorate the deliverance of the Hebrews from the bondage of Egypt, every family was ordered to sacrifice a lamb or kid, a male of the first year without blemish, and to sprinkle some of its blood with hyssop upon the two side posts and the lintel of the door of the house. The lamb was eaten roasted, with unleavened bread, and bitter herbs, and in haste, with the loins girded, shoes on the feet, and a staff in the hand; whatever remained over until the morning was burned. The sheep was also used in the numerous special, individual, and national sacrifices ordered by the Mosaic law. On extraordinary occasions vast numbers of sheep were sacrificed as an offering. Solomon, on the completion of the Temple, offered " sheep and oxen that could not be numbered for multitude."

950.— BREAST OF LAMB, STUFFED. (/r.— Poitrine d'Agneau Farcie.) Ingredients. — A breast of lamb, mirepoix as in preceding recipe, £ of a pint of brown or demi-glace sauce, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), French beans, i oz. of butter, salt and pepper, glaze.

Method. — Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe, substituting veal forcemeat for the sausage-meat. Cook the beans in salted water, and drain them well. Melt the butter in a stewpan, put in the beans, season with salt and pepper, toss over the fire for a few minutes and serve them arranged in small groups round the dish. Before serving, brush the meat over with glaze, and send the sauce to table in a sauce-boat.

Time. — 2} hours, to cook the meat. Average Cost, 8d. to lod. per Ib. 951.— BLANQUETTE OF LAMB. (Fr.— Blanquette d'Agneau.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of loin, neck or breast of lamb, I onion sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 white peppercorns.

For the sauce: * a pint of stock, i£ ozs. of butter, loz. of flour, 2 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuis of cream, salt and pepper.

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COLD COLLATION DISHES.

i— Pigeon Pie. 2— Raised Game Pie. 3— Cutlets and Peas. 4— Prawns en Bouquet. 5— Creme Chicken. 6— Plovers' Eggs. 7— Lamb Cutlets. 8— Larks Farcie. 9— Piped Ham. 10— Boned Capon.

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Method. — Cut the meat into pieces about 2 inches square, and put them into a stewpan with the onion, herbs, peppercorns and a little salt. Cover with cold water, and cook gently for 2. hours. Melt the butter, add the flour, stir, and cook for a few minutes without browning. When the meat is ready, strain from it \ a pint of the liquor, and add it to the blended flour and butter. Stir until boiling, simmer for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the yolks of eggs and cream, previously beaten together. Stir and cook gently for a few minutes, taking care that it does not boil, or it may curdle. Arrange the meat neatly on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and serve.

Time. — About 2.\ hours. Average Cost, from Sd. to is. -d. per Ib. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from April to October. 952.— CHARTREUSE A LA GASTRONOME.

Ingredients. - i or j brrasts of lamb, boned and braised (see " Shoulder of Lamb, Braised ". brai-ed lettuce-stalks, \ a pint of demi-glace sauce No. 242, stock, salt and pepper.

Method.— Braise the lamb as directed, and at the same time cook the lettuce-stalks. Cut the lamb into strips, arrange alternately with layers of lettuce in a plain cylindrical mould, adding a Huh stock and a seasoning of salt and pepper. Cook gently for i^ hours in the bain-marie, then unmould carefully, and serve with a little «>i the saucc poured round, and the remainder sent to table in.• -at. Time. — About i\ hours after braising. Average Cost, 8d. to icxl. per Ib. Sufficient for i large mould. Seasonable all the y 953.— CHAUD-FROID OF LAMB CUTLETS.

(Fr.— Chaud-Froid de Cotelettes d'Agneau.) Ingredients. — The best end of a neck of lamb (1 3 directed in No. 989), £ a pint of aspic jelly (sec jellies) 4 leaves of French gelatine, i gill of Bechamel sauce, £ a gill of tomato sauce (see 'Sauces), \ a,i;ill of cream, salad, salt and pop:

Method.— When the lamb is quite cold divide it into cutlets, and trim them into a. neat uniform shape. Dissolve the gelatine in a tablespoonful of water, add it to the hot white sauce, add also lather more than i the aspic jelly, and divide the mixture into 2 equal portions. To the one add the cream, and to the other the tomato sauce, si to taste, and while hot pass the mixtr. a tammycloth. Coat half the cutlets with the white sauce and the remainder with the red. When the sauce is set pour over the cutlets Jhc rc_ mainder of the aspic jolly, which must be nearly < old at the time. Dish in a < in ', placing the colours alternat<-lv, and fill the centre uith Time.- About H hours. Average Ccst, 45. Allow 9 or 10 cutlets ior 7 or 8 persons.

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954.— COLD LAMB CUTLETS. (Fr.— Cotelettes d'Agneau a la Gelee.) There are various ways of preparing this dish. The cutlets may be cooked in butter (sauteed or grilled) or braised and pressed. The former method is no doubt more simple, although braising is highly recommended on account of the fine flavour imparted to the meat by this method of cooking. The cutlets must be carefully pared, trimmed and flattened before they are cooked, and when cooked they must be pressed beneath a heavy weight, and kept thus until they are quite cold. To finish them, proceed as follows: — Pour a layer of aspic jelly in a saute-pan, or large dish,; when set arrange the cutlets in it, cover with another layer of aspic jelly, and let this also set. Place the pan or dish on the ice for about i hour, then cut the cutlets out with a sharp knife, and arrange them in a circle on a round dish. Fill the centre of the dish with some kind of cooked vegetables — peas, beans, asparagus points, or macedoine — previously seasoned with mayonnaise or French salad dressing, and garnish with neatly cut cubes of set aspic jelly, and serve. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per Ib. Allow 9 or 10 cutlets for 6 or 955.— CROQUETTES OF LAMB. (Fr.— Croquettes d'Agneau.) Ingredients. — £ a Ib. of finely-chopped cooked lamb, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, ^ of a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, £ an oz. of butter, f of an oz. of flour, £ of a pint of strong stock, Salt and pepper, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying- fat. Method — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion lightly, then stir in first the flour and afterwards the stock, and boil gently for 3 or 4 minutes, stirring briskly meanwhile. Add the meat, parsley, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, stir over the fire until well mixed, and turn on to a plate to cool. Form into cork-shaped pieces, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat. (See "Croquettes of Beef," also " Notes on Frying," p. 433.) Time. — To fry, 4 to 5 minutes. Average Cost, 5d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from April to October. 956.— CUTLETS, LARDED. (Fr.— Cotelettes d'Agneau Piquees.) Ingredients. — 2 or 3 Ib. of neck of lamb, larding bacon, stock, i onion sliced, 2 carrots sliced, ^ a turnip sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper, £ a pint of tomato or brown sauce (see " Sauces "), glaze, mashed potato. Method.— Trim the cutlets into a good shape (see " Lamb Cutlets, to

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prepare "), and lard one side closely with fine lardoons (see No. 989). Place the vegetables in a stewpan, lay the cutlets on the top, add the peppercorns, and stock to nearly cover the vegetables. Sprinkle liberally with salt and pepper, cover lightly with a greased paper, and put on the lid. Cook gently for i hour, basting frequently, and adding more stock as that in the stewpan boils away. Place the cutlets on a tin in a hot oven for a few minutes to crisp the bacon, brush them over with the reduced gravy, and arrange them neatly on a border of mashed potato. Serve the sauce separately.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, nd. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable, April to October. 957.— EPIGRAMS OF LAMB. (Fr.— Epigrammes d'Agneau a la Soubise.) Ingredients. — i breast of lamb, 2 quarts of stock, i onion, i carrot, £ a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, frying-fat, Soubise sauce, Allemande sauce (see Sauces).

Method. — Trim the breast of lamb, cut it in two, and blanch it. Bring the stock to boiling point, put in the meat, boil rapidly for a few minutes, then add the vegetables cut into thick slices, the bouquetgarni, salt to taste, and cook gently for about i hour, or until the inc.it is tender. Remove the bones, press the meat between 2 dishes until cold, then trim off all the skin and gristle, and cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving. Have ready the Allemande sauce, which must be very thick and nearly cold; season the epigrammes, or lamb entrees, with salt and pepper, dip them into the sauce, and if not completely coated, repeat the operation. When the sauce is set and firm, dip the epigrammes into beaten egg, coat them carefully with fine breadcrumbs, and fry in hot tat until they acquire a golden-brown colour. Drain well, and arrange in the form of a circle on a hot dish, and serve the Soubise sauce in the centre.

Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. to lod. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 7 958.— LAMB BOILED. (Fr.— Agneau bouilli.) The leg of lamb is the part usually selected for boiling, but this method of cooking is not often adopted. Careful and frequent skimming is essential to preserve the colour of the meat, and the liquor in which it is cooked must contain nothing to destroy or overpower iic.U"' flavour. Thf pefcs, carrots, or whatever is served as a gttrnish, should In- cooked separately, and the meat masked with a good white or Herhamel sauce.

959-— LAMBS' COLLOPS AND ASPARAGUS.

Ingredients. — Slices of underdone lamb, 30 asparagus, i£ ozs. of butter,

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£ anoz. of flour, For the seasoning: i tablespoonful of flour, £ of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, $ of a teaspoonful of salt, 1 of a teaspoonful of pepper, a pinch of finely-grated lemon-rind, £ a pint of gravy, stock or water.

Method. — Cut the meat into fillets about 2^ inches in diameter, sprinkle both sides with seasoning, and put aside for i hour. Cut the tips of the asparagus about 2 inches long, and boil them in salted water until tender, the stems being put aside to be afterwards used for soup. Heat the butter in a frying-pan, cook the collops quickly until lightly browned on both sides, then remove and keep them hot. Sprinkle the flour on the bottom of the pan, cook until well-browned, and add the gravy or stock. Season to taste, boil rapidly for about 5 minutes, then strain. Arrange the collops in a close circle on a hot dish, place the asparagus tips in the centre, and pour the sauce round. Time. — 1£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 43. 6d. Sufficient, allow i Ib. of meat for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from March to July. 96o.-LAMB CUTLETS, TO PREPARE.

Method. — Take the best end of a neck of lamb, remove the chine bone, and saw the rib bones across, reducing the length to 3^ or 4 inches, according to the size of the fillet, or lean portion of the meat. Trim off the greater part of the fat, and scrape the end of the bone, leaving about £ of an inch quite bare. A more even surface and a better shape may be obtained by flattening the cutlets with a wetted cutletbat or chopping-knife. The cutlets may be plainly grilled or fried, coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried or braised and glazed. The most suitable vegetable accompaniments are asparagus, green peas, and spinach; and an almost infinite number of sauces may be served with the cutlets, and allowed to give their name to the dish when it is a simple one. For example, plainly grilled or fried cutlets may be served with tomato or Madeira sauce, and termed respectively, Cotelettes d'Agneau d la Tomate, and Cotelettes d'Agneau d la Madcre. 961.— LAMB CUTLETS, GRILLED. (Fr.— Cotelettes d'Agneau Grillees.) Ingredients. — 9 or 10 cutlets cut from the best end of the neck, £ a pint of shelled peas, £ of a pint of good gravy or dcmi-glace sauce (see Sauces), salt and pepper, salad-oil.

Method. — Trim the cutlets into a good shape, brush over with saladoil, then grill them over or in front of a clear fire for about 8 or 10 minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times. Season the cutlets lightly with salt and pepper, cover the end of each bone with a cutlet-frill, arrange neatly in a circle on a border of mashed potato, serve the peas in the centre and pour the hot sauce round.

Time. — 30 minutes, altogether. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per 11 ».

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962. -LAMB CUTLETS, MALMAISON STYLE.

(Fr.— Cotelettes d'Agneau a la Malmaison.) Ingredients. — 9 or 10 cutlets cut 'from the best end of the neck, £ of a pint of demi-glace sauce (see Sauces), 4 or $ small stuffed tomatoes, (see Vegetables), lentil, green pea and potato purees, i egg, breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper.

Method. — Trim the cutlets into a good shape, season them with salt and pepper, and coat them with egg and breadcrumbs. Rub the cooked vegetables through a fine sieve, season to taste, bind with a little yolk of egg, press into small dariol moulds, and keep hot until required. Prepare and bake the tomatoes, also a border of mashed potato, which must be brushed over with yolk of egg and browned in the oven. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, fry the cutlets until lightly browned, and drain well. Arrange them in a close circle on the potato border, garnish with the tomatoes and small timluiles of vegetables, and serve the hot sauce in a sauce-boat.

Time. — To try the cutlets, from 7 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. 963. -LAMB CUTLETS, MILANESE STYLE.

(Fr.— Cotelettes d'Agneau a la Milanaise.) Ingredients. — 8 or 9 lamb cutlets, £ of a pint of dcmi-glace sauce, \ a Ib. ot Patna rice, | of a pint of white stock, £ of a pint of tomatopulp (made by rubbing raw tomatoes through a fine sieve), 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of grated Parmesan cheese, £ a teaspoonful of fnielychopped parsley, salad-oil, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash and blanch the rice, and drain it well. Replacr it in the stcwpan, add the butter, tomato-pulp, salt and popper, put in the stock, cover with a buttered paper and the stcwpan-lid, and cook slowly for about i hour, or until the rice is tender and dry. Brush the cutlets over with salad oil, grill them over or in front of a clear fire for 8 or 10 minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times, and before serving i them with salt and pepper. Add the grated cheese to the rice, season to taste, and arrange it in the form of a pyramid in the centre of a hot dish. Sprinkle the top of it with parsley, dish the cutlets y overlapping each other round the base, and pour the hot dcmiglacc sauce round.

Time. —About i hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient 964.— LAMB CUTLETS, RICHELIEU STYLE.

(Fr.— Cotelettes d'Agneau a la Richelieu.) Ingredients. 9 or 10 lamb cutlets, 2.\ ozs. of butter, 6 or 7 small stuffed tomatoes (see Vegetables), 6 or 7 artichoke bottoms, £ a pint of

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cooked asparagus-points, i truffle, £ of a pint of demi-glace sauce, Method. — When tinned artichoke bottoms are used, warm them in a little of their own liquor. Prepare and cook the asparagus-points, and, when ready to use, season and to;s them over the fire in £ an oz. of hot buttef. Prepare and bake the tomatoes. Trim the cutlets into a good shape, heat 2 ozs. of butter in a saute-pan, put in the cutlets, and fry them quickly until nicely browned. Place a cutlet-frill on each bone, arrange neatly in a circle on a border of mashed potato, and pile the tomatoes in the centre. Fill the artichoke bottoms with the asparagus points, sprinkle a little chopped truffle on each, and place them at regular intervals round the base of the dish. Have ready the hot demi-glace sauce, pour it round the dish, and serve. Time. — To cook the cutlets, from 7 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, from is. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. 965.— LAMB CUTLETS WITH CUCUMBER.

(Fr.— Cotelettes d'Agneau au Concombre.) Ingredients.— 8 or 9 cutlets from the best end of the neck, or 6 or 7 chops from the loin, i large or 2 small cucumbers, 3 o^s. of butter, £ of a pint of gravy, i egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, butter or clarified fat for frying the cutlets.

Method. — Peel the cucumber, remove the seeds, and cut it into £ inch dice. Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the cucumber, season well with salt and pepper, cover closely, and let it cook very gently in the butter for nearly £ an hour, or until the pieces are tender but unbroken, then drain well. Trim the cutlets into a good shape, sprinkle both sides of them with salt and pepper, dip them in egg, crumb them, and then fry in hot butter or fat in a saute- or frying-pan until lightly browned on both sides. Arrange the cutlets neatly on a thin potato border, serve the cucumber in the centre, and pour the hot sauce round. Time. — To cook the cutlets, from 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. 966.— LAMB CUTLETS AND SPINACH. (Fr.— Cotelettes d'Agneau aux Epinards.) Ingredients. — 8 or 10 cutlets, £ of a pint of spinach puree (see Vegetables) i oz. of butter, i egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, £ of a pint of gravy, tomato or any other sauce preferred.

Method.— Trim the cutlets (see " Lamb Cutlets, To Prepare " ). Brush them over with beaten egg seasoned liberally with salt and pepper, and coat with breadcrumbs. Prepare the spinach puree as directed, and keep it hot until required. Heat the butter in a saute- or fryingpan, fry the cutlets quickly until lightly browned on both sides, and drain them free from fat. Arrange in a close circle on a hot dish, pile the puree in the centre, and pour the. sa.ucq round*

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Time. — To fry, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 5 or 6 p2rsons. Seasonable from April to October. \»tc'. — Peas, asparagus, beans or dressed potatoes may be substituted for the spinach.

967.— LAMB CUTLETS STEWED WITH TOMATOES.

(Fr. — Cotelettes d'Agneau, aux Tomates.) Ingredients. — 8 or 9 lamb cutlets, 4 tomatoes, i oz. of butter, i finely-chopped shallot or small onion, stock or water, salt and pepper. Method. — Trim the cutlets (see "Lamb Cutlets, to Prepare"), and cut the tomatoes into thick slices. Heat the butter in a saute- pan or shallow stewpan, fry the cutlets quickly until lightly browned on both sides, then add the shallot to blend, then add the tomatoes, and season with salt and pepper. Cover closely, and cook very slowly for i£ hours, adding a very small quantity of stock or water from time to time, if necessary, but when the tomatoes are juicy none will be needed. When ready, remove the cutlets and keep them hot, pass the tomatoes through a fine sieve, season to taste, and if more sauce is liked add a little stock and thicken with cornflour. Arrange the cutlets in a close circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve. Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, ud. t<> is. jd. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. S:asonable from April to October. 968.— LAMB, FRICASSEE OF. (Fr.— Fricassee d'Agneau.) Ingredients. — A breast of lamb, 2 ozs. of butter, i small onion, 2 bay-leaves, 2 cloves, i blade of mace, 6 peppercorns, i pint of boiling stock or water, i oz. of floar, 2 tablespoonfuls of capers coarsclychopp:d, salt and pepper.

Method. — Trim the meat, and cut into 2-inch squares. Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the onion sliced, bay-leaves, cloves, mace, peppercorns,! asaltspoonful of pepper, salt and the meat. < over, and cook very gently for \ an hour, stirring Occasionally. NOA add the boiling Stock or water and salt to taste, and simmer gently for i hour longer, 20 minutes before serving, mix the flour smoothly with a very small quantity of cold water, and add to it gradually about £ pint of the liquor from the stewpan, stirring all the time. Bring the eontcnts of the stewpan to boiling point, pour in the thickened liquor, boil for 2 or 3 minutes, then simmer until the meat is sufficiently cooked. When ready, arrange the pieces of meat inside a border of mashed potato, or othetwise, as may be preferred, season the sauce, add to it the capers to taste, and pour over the meat.

Time. About i£ hours. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Sufficient for

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969.— LAMB'S FRY. (Fr.~ Fricot d'Agneau.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of fry. For the batter: i level dessertspoonful of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of water, i egg, salt and pepper, 2 or 3 ozs. of clarified fat or dripping, i tablespoonful of flour, about \ a pint of hot water.

Method. — Wash the fry, put it into a stewpan with sufficient cold water to just cover it, bring to the boil, cook for 2 or 3 minutes, then drain and dry well. Mix the flour, i saltspoonful of salt, and \ the quantity of pepper into a smooth batter with the ? tablespoonfuls of cold water, and add to it the egg, previously beaten. Heat the clarified fat in a frying-pan; dip the pieces of fry in the batter, and fry them gently until nicely browned on both sides, but take care not to overcook the liver. Have ready a very hot dish on which to put the fry, and keep it as hot as possible while the gravy is being made. The fat in the pan may be used for this purpose, or, if preferred, it can be poured away, and i oz. of butter used instead. Stir the flour into the fat, and when brown pour in the hot water, stir and boil for five minutes, season to taste, and either strain it round thedish or serve it separately in a sauce-boat.

Time. — To cook, about 15 or 20 minutes. Average Cost, lod. to is. per Ib. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

Note. — If preferred, the fry may be coated with egg and breadcrumbs, instead of the batter, before frying.

970.— LAMB'S FRY. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of fry, a few thin slices of bacon, 3 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked macaroni or spaghetti (small sized macaroni), i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, i egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, i small onion, i small carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf). Method. — Wash the fry, put it into a stewpan with the onion and' carrot cut into thin slices, the bouquet-garni and cold water to cover, bring gently to the boil, and simmer slowly for about i hour. Turn both meat and gravy into a basin, and, when cold, strain off the gravy and divide the meat into 2 portions. Cut one half into rather thin slices, season them with salt and pepper, coat them with egg and breadcrumbs, and put the slices aside until wanted. Cut the remainder of the meat into small dice, and also cut the macaroni or spaghetti into very small pieces. Melt i oz. of butter in a stewpan,. add the flour, cook and stir for 3 or 4 minutes, pour in the strainad liquor, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, put in the meat,, macaroni and parsley, cover, and let the stewpan stand where the contents will keep hot without boiling. Divide the bacon into small pieces, roll them, put them on a skewer, and grill or bake them irt

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the oven until crisp. Heat the remaining 2 ozs. of butter in a sauteor frying-pan, put in the prepared slices of fry, and cook them quickly until both sides are lightly browned, then drain well. The preparation in the stewpan should have a consistency sufficient to allow it to be piled in the centre of a dish. Serve the fried slices of fry round the base, and garnish ^ith the bacon. When a more liquid sauce is preferred, dish the slices of fry on a potato border, and serve the sauce in the centre.

Time. — 1£ to 2 hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. per Ib. Sufficient for about 4 persons.

971.— LAMB'S HEAD AND PLUCK. (Fr.— Tete d'Agneau.) Ingredients. — A lamb's head and pluck (which consists of the heart, liver, and lungs or lights), 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs.of flour, i large onion, i carrot, £ a small turnip, a bouquet -garni (parsley, thyme, bay 6 peppercorns, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pep] XT, g^ browned breadcrumbs.

Method. — Wash the head well, put it into a stewpan, cover it with cold water, and bring to the boil, strain, scrape off the hairs, if any, and rinse well. Wash the pluck in cold water, and put it into the slewpan with the head, cover with cold water, and when boiling skim well. When all the scum has been removed, put in the si tables, the bouquet-garni, peppercorns and | a teaspoonful of salt, and simmer gently for about i hour. Divide the head, take out the tongue and brains, and keep the head hot over a saucepan of boiling Skin the tongue, cut it into dice, chop the biains coarsely, and cut the pluck into small pie* mvhilc, the liquor in the pan must have been allowed to boil rapidly to reduce, and before using it for the sauce it must be strained and well skimmed. Melt the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, and cook for five minutes. Pour in ij pints of tin liquor, and stir until it boils, then put in the pluck, tongue and brains, add the parsley, and season to taste, cover closely, re-heat, and kc< until required. Coat the head with beaten egg ami browned breadcrumbs, bake it in a moderate oven for 10 to 15 minutes, K ip-qurntly with hot fat. then drain well. Place the head in the centre ot a hot dish, pour the mince round, and serve.

Time.— From i] to 2 hours. Average Cost, from 2s. to 2S. Cd. Suffi% 972.—LAMB PIE. (Fr.—Patt d'Agneau.) Ingredients. _' Ib. of loin, m- k if of l.unK i or.? lambs' or sin ( p\ kidneys thinly lock or water, salt and pepper, short trust or jniti

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Method. — Free the meat from fat and bones, and boil the latter down for gravy. Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, place them in a piedish, sprinkling each layer with salt and pepper, and add a few slices of kidney. Half fill the dish with stock or water, cover with paste (see " Veal Pie "), and bake in a moderate oven for about i£ hours. Strain and season the stock made from the bones, and pour it into the pie just before serving. Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 23. 6d. to 33. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to October.

973.— LAMB, STEWED. (Fr,— Ragout d'Agneau.) Ingredients. — 3 or 4 Ib. of loin, neck or breast of lamb, 2 ozs. of butter, the juice of \ a lemon, 6 mint leaves, \ of a teaspoonful of pepper, £ a pint of Soubise sauce (see Sauces).

Method. — Saw the long bones across, and either skewer or bind the meat into a compact form. Heat the butter in a large stewpan, add the pepper, mint, and lemon-juice, put in the meat, cover closely, and cook very gently for about an hour, turning the meat 2 or 3 times, in order to brown the entire surface. Serve the Soubise sauce separately; or, instead of this sauce, add £ of a pint of stock mixed with 1 dessertspoonful of flour to the butter, etc., in the stewpan, boil for 2 or 3 minutes, season to taste, improve the colour if necessary by adding a few drops of liquid caramel. Dish up and serve hot. Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. 2d. per Ib. Suffi974.— LAMB, STEWED. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 2 or 3 Ib. of loin, neck or breast of lamb, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i small onion, i small carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, a sprig of mint, i pint of shelled peas, salt and pepper, stock.

Method. — Trim the meat and cut it into pieces convenient for serving. Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the vegetables (cut into dice), herbs, peppercorns, and mint (tied in muslin), and the meat, cover closely, and cook gently for about 30 minutes, turning the meat 2 or 3 times. When lightly browned, add boiling stock or water to cover the meat, put on the lid, and simmer very gently for about an hour. £ an hour before serving, boil up and put in the peas a few at a time, so that the temperature is not much reduced below boiling point. About 15 minutes before serving mix the flour smoothly with a very small quantity of cold water, then add to it gradually about £ a pint of the strained liquor from the stewpan, stirring all the time. Pour the thickened liquor back into the stewpan, and stir gently for a few

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minutes. When both meat and peas are tender, remove the herbs, season to taste, and serve the stew in a deep dish. Time. — 2 to 2^ hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient 975.— LAMBS' SWEETBREADS IN CASES.

(Fr. — Ris d'Agneau en Caisses.) Ingredients. — 1\ Ib. of lambs' sweetbreads, £ a pint of Bechamel sauce (see " Sauces "), stock, cooked green peas, or a lew tahlespoonfuls of spinach puree, a little finely-chopped trulllc, salt and pepper. Method. — Soak and blanch the sweetbreads (see lecipes for dressing veal sweetbreads), then drain well and cover with well-flavoured white stock. Cook gently for i hour, or until tender, and drain from the stock. Make the sauce as din-cud, and season to taste. Place a layer of peas or spinach puree at the bottom of 8 or 9 oval china cases, add a portion of swcctluc.nl and a little sauce. Sprinkle lightly \\ith trui tie, and serve hot.

Time.— About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s, 3d per Ib. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable, all the year. 976.— LAMB SWEETBREADS, BOURGEOISE STYLE.

(Fr. — Ris d'Agneau a la Bourgeoise.) Ingredients. — 1£ Ib. of lambs' sweetbreads, £ a pint of brown sauce, stock, I oz. of butter, j tahlespoonfuls of cooked peas, j tablesp ->.>ntuls of cooked carrot, 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked turnip, salt and popper. Method.— Soak and blanch the ads (see recipes for dr< weetbreads), and drain and dry them well. Melt the butter in a stewpan, toss the sweetbreads in it until lightly cooked, then barely cover them with good stock. Season to taste, cook \ ly for I hour, and drain and dry thoroughly. Make the sauce a \"o. 233), season to taste, and keep hot until required. Meanwhile boil the turnip, carrot (cut into rounds rather smaller than a marble), and the pe.:d\ until tender, but not broken, and add tlu in to the sauce. PL read in casseroles or china cases, mix with them the sauce and vegetables, cook on the stove or in a moderate oven tor n>or 15 minuter then serve.

Time.- Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2S. 3d. to 31. Sufficient for 6 or 7 poisons. Seasonable, all the year. 977-— LAMBS' SWEETBREADS, CROUSTADES OF.

(Fr. — Ris d'Agneau en Croustade.) Ingredients. — ij Ib. of Iambi' sweetbread-. \ a pint of Bechamel sauce (see " Sauces "), stock, cooked green peas or a little spinach

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puree, finely-chopped truffle, salt and pepper, rough puff or puff Method. — Prepare the sweetbreads as directed in the preceding recipe. Have ready 8 or 9 oval or round, crisply-baked pastry cases, fill them with sweetbread, cover with sauce, and sprinkle lightly with truffle. Serve hot.

Time. — To cook the sweetbreads, about i£ hours. Average Cost, is. qd. to 2S. 3d. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable 978.— LAMBS' SWEETBREADS, FRIED. (Fr.— Ris d'Agneau Frit.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of lambs' sweetbreads, £ of a pint of gravy, tomato sauce, or any other sauce preferred, i egg, breadcrumbs, butter of frying-fat, flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Soak the sweetbreads in water for 2 hours, changing the water 3 or 4 times, then drain well, and place in a stewpan containing just sufficient cold water to cover them. Add a little salt, bring to the boil, cook gently for 15 minutes, then press between 2 dishes until cold. Roll lightly in a little flour seasoned with salt and pepper, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter or fat until lightly browned. Serve the gravy or sauce separately. Time. — To fry, 6 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. per Ib. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at all times. 979.— LAMBS' SWEETBREADS, VOLTAIRE STYLE (Fr — Ris d'Agneau a la Voltaire.) Ingredients. — 8 lambs' sweetbreads, 8 artichoke bottoms, i oz. of butter, i oz. grated Parmesan cheese, 3 yolks of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces), £ a pint of good stock, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, i onion, i carrot, a bouquct-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf). salt and pepper, meat glaze.

Method. — Blanch, drain, and trim the sweetbreads. Lay the slice?. of bacon, onion and carrot sliced, and the bouquet-garni on the bottom of a saut6-pan, f cover them with stock, add seasoning if necessary, place the sweetbreads on the top, and cover with a buttered paper. Put the saute-pan into a moderate oven and braise from 30 to 40 minutes, basting frequently, and adding more stock if necessary. When the sweetbreads are done, brush them over with warm glaze and keep them hot. Strain the stock into a small stewpan, skim well, then add the yolks of eggs and Bechamel sauce, previously mixed together, stir until it thickens, then pass through a tammy-cloth or fine hair sieve. Drain the artichokes well after cooking, or from the liquor when preserved ones are used, and place them in a well-buttered

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sautc-pan. Into each put a tcaspoonful of the prepared sauce, lay the sweetbreads on the top, cover with sauce, and sprinkle well with the cheese. Melt the remainder of the butter, pour a little on each sweetbread, bake in a hot oven for 5 or 6 minutes, then arrange neatly on a hot dish, and serve with a suitable sauce.

Time. — From i to i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. 3d. per Ib.. — For other methods of cooking lambs' sweetbreads, see recipes for cooking veal.

980.— LAMBS' TAILS, RUSSIAN STYLE.

(Fr.— Queux d'Agneau a la Russe.) Ingredients. — 4 or 5 lambs' tails, i* pints of stock, i glass of Chublis (if liked), a bouquet-gurni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, £ of a pint of tomato sauce (see Sauces), frying-fat, salt and pepper. For the batter: 2 ozs. of flour, \ a gill of tepid water, i tablespoonful of salad-oil or melted butter, the white of i egg, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, i saltspoonful of salt.

Method. — Blanch the tails, cut them into small joints, return them to the stewpan with the stock, wine, bouquet-garni, cloves, salt and pepper to taste, and cook until tender. Allow them to cool in the stock, and, when ready to use, drain and dry well. Mix the flour, water, oil, and salt into a smooth batter, then add the parsley and white of egg stiiily whipped. Dip the pieces of tail in the batter, and fry them until nicely browned in hot fat. Garnish with parsley, and serve tomato sauce separately in a sauce-boat. Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom sold. Suffi981.— LAMBS' TAILS WITH POTATOES.

(Fr. — Queux d'Agneau aux Pommes de Terre.) Ingredients. — 3 or 4 lambs' tails, a few slices of bacon, i onion sliced, 1 carrot sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-1 corns, salt, stock, £ of a pint of brown, tomato or other sauce, m. Method. — Blanch and dry the tails. Place the vegetables, hcibs and peppercorns in a stewpan, lay the tails on the top, add a kttle salt and pepper, and cover with bacon. Add stock to nearly cover the vegetables, put on the lid, which must fit closely, and cook gently for 2 hours, adding a little more stock from time to time. Serve in a border of mashed potatoes with the sauce poured over the ine.it. Time.— -About J hours. Average Cost, uncertain, lambs' t;iils IMHU; seldom sold. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to

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982.— LEG OF LAMB, FRENCH STYLE.

(Fr. — Gigot d'Agneau a la Franpaise.) Ingredients. — A small leg of lamb boned, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, i finely-chopped shallot, i clove of bruised garlic, 2 ozs. of butter, i onion sliced, i carrot sliced, salt and pepper. Method. — Mix the parsley, shallot, garlic, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper together, and sprinkle the mixture on the inner surface of the meat. Bind the meat into a good shape, place it in a bakingtin containing the butter, onion and carrot, and season well with salt and pepper. Bake for £ an hour in a hot oven, and afterwards at a lower temperature until the meat is cooked. Serve with gravy made from the bones and the sediment in the baking- tin (see " Gravies "). Time. — Allow 20 minutes per Ib. Average Cost, i id. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from April to October. 983.— LOIN OF LAMB, ROLLED AND BRAISED.

(Fr. — Longe d'Agneau Braisee.) Ingredients. — i loin cf lamb, a mirepoix of vegetables (see " Shoulder of Lamb, Braised "), stock, glaze, cooked peas, spinach or cucumber, Method. — Remove the bones, season the inner surface of the meat with salt and pepper, roll the flap under as tightly as possible, and bind with tape. Braise for about 2 hours (see " Shoulder of Lamb, Braised "), brush over with glaze, and serve on a bed of cooked peas, spinach, or cucumber.

Time.— About 2 hours. Average Cost, i id. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable, from April to October. 984.— MINCED LAMB. (Fr.— Emince d'Agneau.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cooked lamb, i finely-chopped medium-sized onion, J of a pint of gravy or stock, i tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, £ of an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, pepper and salt. Method. — Cut the meat into small dice, and boil the bones and trimmings for i hour or longer, whei stock is needed. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, add the flour, and brown it also. Stir in the gravy or stock, add the ketchup and seasoning to taste, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Put in the meat, draw the stewpan aside where the contents will be kept just below simmering point, and let it remain for at least £ an hour. Serve, surrounded by a border of mashed potato, well-boiled rice, or sippets of toasted bread.

Time. — From i to \\ hours. Average Cost, about is. 2d. Sufficient for 3 to 4 persons. Seasonable from April to October.

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985.— NOISETTES OF LAMB. (Fr.— Noisettes d'Agneau a la Union.) Ingredients. — i loin of lamb, 8 artichoke bottoms, 2 dozen fresh button mushrooms, 2^ ozs. of butter, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, % of a teaspoonful each of finely-chopped chive, chervil and tarragon, the juice of \ a lemon, i tablespoonful of warm meat glaze or i teaspoonful of meat extract, £ of a pint of stock, £ of a pint of demi-glace sauce (see Sauces), salt and pepper.

Method. — Remove the fillet from the loin, and divide it into 8 slices, which, when properly cut, are round and entirely free from fat. Prepare the mushrooms, chop them finely, and fry them lightly in i oz. of butter. Warm the artickoke bottoms in the stock; to the mushroom puree add the lemon-juice, herbs, glaze, or meat juice, season to taste, mix well together over the fire, then fill the artichokes with the preparation, and keep them warm. Heat the remainder of the butter in a saute-pan, and fry the noisettes quickly until lightly browned. Arrange in 2 rows on a hot dish, place an artichoke bottom on the top of each, pour the demi-glace sauce round, and serve. Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 2d. per Ib. Suffi986.- RAGOUT OF LAMB WITH SORREL.

(Fr.— Ragout d'Agneau a 1'Oseille') Ingredients. — 2 or 3 Ib. of nock or breast of lamb, J a pint of boiling stock, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i onion, i small carrot, i strip of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsU-y, thyme, bay-leaf), the yolks of 2 eggs, i tablespoonful of cream, ^ of a pint of sorrel puree, or, if more convenient, { of a pint of spinach puree mixed with the juice of £ a lemon, salt and pepper.

Method. — Trim the meat, and blanch it by putting it into cold water, bringing it slowly to the boil, and then immersing it for a few minutes in seasoned salt water. Drain, dry well, and cut into 2-inch squares. H-Mt the butter in a stewpan, and fry the sliced vegetables for 15 minutes, but do not let them brown. Now sprinkle in the Hour, stir and cook for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the boiling stock, herbs, J of a teaspoonful of salt, i the quantity of pepper, and stir until smooth. Lay the pieces of ine.it in the sauce, put on the lid. which should fit closely, and simmer very gently for about 1} hours. Meanwhile cook the swrrel or spinach (see Vegetables, rub it through a line sieve, and season to taste. When the meat is ready, pile it in the centre of a hot dish. Strain the sauce into another stewpan,and add the sorrel puree.when nearly boiling put in the yolks of 2 eggs and cream, previously mixed together, and stir until the sauce thickens. Season to taste, pour over the me.it,

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Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Sufficient for 987._ROAST FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB.

(Fr.— Quartier d'Agneau Roti.) Ingredients. — Fore-quarter of lamb, mint sauce (see No. 256). Method. — See " Roast Lamb " and " Notes on Roasting," p. 407. Serve with gravy made from the sediment in the roasting-tin, and mint sauce.

Time. — 1£ to 2 hours, according to size. Average Cost, i id. to is. 2d. Sufficient for 8 to 12 persons, according to weight. Seasonable, grass lamb from March to September.

988.— ROAST LAMB. (Fr.— Agneau Roti.) • Lamb, when roasting, requires more attention than any other kind of meat No part of it must be underdone, and to secure this result without drying and hardening the thinner portions to an undesirable degree, much care is necessary. The intense heat to which all meat must first be subjected for a few minutes is applied for too short a time to affect the colour of a joint kept constantly in motion, and the subsequent browning and over-cooking of any part may be obviated by covering the meat with 2 or 3 folds of well-greased paper, and by frequent basting. The amount of heat applied to any part may be regulated by raising or lowering the joint on the spit, and the rate of cooking by increasing or decreasing the distance between the joint and the fire. See " Notes on Roasting," p. 407.

989._SHOULDER OF LAMB, BRAISED.

(Fr.— Epaule d'Agneau Braisee.) Ingredients. — A shoulder of lamb, larding bacon, i pint of stock, 3 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, 2 shallots finely-chopped, i tcaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley. For the mirepoix: 2 onions, 2 carrots, £ a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns. Meat glaze.

Method. — Bone the shoulder, season well with salt and pepper, roll up tightly, and bind securely with string. Cut the lardoons, or strips of bacon for insertion in the meat, about 2 inches long, and rather more than £ of an inch in thickness, and insert close rows in the rolled meat. Slice the vegetables, and put them into a large braize-pan with \\ ozs. of butter, place the meat on the top, cover closely, and cook gently for 20 minutes. Add the herbs, peppercorns, and stock to nearly cover the vegetables, place a buttered paper over the meat, put pn the lid, and braise in the oven for ? hours, J an hour before serving,

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I. Chaud-froid of Lamb Cutlets. 2. Chicken Timbales, in Aspic. 3. Stuffed Larks, in Cases.

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SUPPER DISHES.

[. Savory Mince Croustades. 2. Beef Polantine. 3- Fish Kedgeree.

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melt the remaining butter in a stewpan, fry the shallots slightly, then add the flour and cook until it acquires a nut-brown colour. When the meat is ready, remove the strings, brush it over with stock reduced to glaze, and put it into a moderate oven for a few minutes to crisp the bacon. Strain the stock, increase the quantity to J of a pint, pour it over the brown roux or thickening, and stir until it boils. Add to it the parsley, season to taste, simmer for 2 or 3 minutes, then serve in a sauce-boat. Cooked tomatoes, mushrooms, fancifully-cut turnips and carrots, small timbales of spinach or green pea puree, haricots verts and macedoine are all suitable garnish for this dish.

Time. — To braise, about 2 hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. id. per Ib. Note. — The loin, neck or breast may be cooked in this manner. ! furred, the shoulder may be stuffed with sausage meat or veal forcei and the larding may in all cases be omitted, if more convenient. 990.— SHOULDER OF LAMB, STUFFED.

(Fr. — Epaule d'Agneau Farcie.

Ingredients. — A shoulder of lamb, veal forcemeat. No. 396, £ ()* ^ pint of stock, i oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour, 2 or 3 ozs. of dripping. Method. — Remove the bones and boil them for at least i hour for stock. Flatten the meat with a cutlet-bat or heavy knife, s>< well with salt and pepper, and spread on the forcemeat. Roll up lightly, tic securely with string, and place in a baking-tin in which tindripping has been previously melted. Baste well, put it into a moc': oven, and cook gently for about i£ hours, basting frequently. Meanwhile fry the butter and flour together until well browned, add the prepared stock, stir until boiling, and season to taste. Remove the meat and keep it hot, pour oil the fat without disturbing the sediment in the tin. and add the brown sauce. Replace the meat, and cook it gently for 20 minutes longer, basting frequently meanwhile. Serve with a little sauce poured over the meat, and send the remainder to table in a tureen. If preferred, the meat may be braised according t<> directions given in reference to " Loin of Lamb, Rolled and Braised." Time. -About i£ hours. Average Cost, iid. to is. 2d. per Ib. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable all the year. U

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CHAPTER XIX 991.— BAKED SHOULDER OF MUTTON, STUFFED.

(Fr.— Epaule de Mouton Farcie.) Ingredients. — A small shoulder of mutton, veal forcemeat, No. 396, £ of a pint of stock, i oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour, 2 or 3 ozs. of dripping, salt and pepper.

Method. — Have all the bones removed from the shoulder, and boil them down for stock. Flatten the meat, using either a wetted cutletbat or rolling-pin for the purpose. Season well with salt and pepper, spread on the forcemeat, roll up tightly and bind securely with string. Have ready the baking-tin with the dripping melted, baste the meat well, put it into a moderate oven, and cook gently for i-£ hours, basting frequently. Meanwhile fry together the butter and flour until a brown roux, or thickening, is formed, strain on to it f of a pint of stock made from the bones (which should be boiled for at least 2 hours), stir the sauce until it boils, and season to taste. When the meat has cooked for i£ hours, drain off every particle of fat, but leave the sediment in the tin, pour in the brown sauce, return to the oven, and cook \ an hour longer, basting frequently. When ready, serve on a hot dish, pour a little of the sauce over the meat, and send the remainder to table in a sauce-boat.

Time. — To prepare and cook, about 2^ hours. Average Cost, 9d. to lod. per Ib.

Note. — Either leg, loin or neck of mutton may be cooked according to the above recipe; and when preferred, onion farce, or stuffing, No. 404, may be substituted for the veal forcemeat.

THE POETS ON SHEEP. — The keeping of flocks was one of the earliest employments of mankind, and the most ancient kind of poetry was probably pastoral. The oldest representations we have of the poetic character of pastoral life are those found in books of the Old Testament, which describe the shepherd life of the patriarchs. Pastoral poetry in the classic sense of the term had its origin in Greece, and Theocritus (third century B.«.) is the earliest and most illustrious of the pastoral poets. Virgil at a later period represents pastoral poetry in Roman literature, his Bucolics with charming grace setting forth the simplicity and sweetness of country life. Tasso and Ronsard wrote on pastoral subjects; and among our fenglish poetical works are Spencer's Shepherd's Calendar, Browne's Britannia's Pastorals, Gay's Shepherd's Week, Gray's Elegy, Thomson's Seasons, and Allan Ramsay's Gentle Shepherd. In all such pastorals the allusions to the sheep are only of inferior importance to the shepherds who attend them, and these have furnished innumerable figures and similes. Shakespeare

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frequently compares men to sheep, as in King Henry VI., when Gloster rudely drives the lieutenant from the side of the monarch, the hapless King thus touchingly speaks of his helplessness: — " So flies the reckless shepherd from the wolf:

So first the harmless sheep doth yield his fleece, And nest his throat unto the butcher's knife."

In the Two Gentlemen of Verona we meet with the following humorous comparison: — " PROTEUS. The sheep for fodder follow the shepherd, the shepherd for food follows not the sheep; Thou for wages followest thy master, thy master for wages followest not thee; therefore thou art a sheep.

SPEED. Such another proof will make me cry baa."

Burn's Elegy on Poor Mailie, his only " pet yowe," is familiar to every one: — " Thro* a* the town she stroll'd by him; A lang half mile she could descry him; Wi' kindly Me.it, when she did spy him She ran wi* speed; A friend mair faithfu* ne'er cam' nigh him, Than Mailie dead.

I wat she was a sheep o* sense.

An' could behave hersel* wi* mensc; I'll say't she never brake a fence, Thro* thievish greed.

Our bardie, lonely, keeps the spence, bailie's dead."

992.— BOILED MUTTON. (Fr.— Mouton bouilli.) The leg, neck and breast are the parts usually selected for boiling. When intended for this purpose, the meat should not be allowed to hang many days, for the least taint spoils the flavour of boiled mutton. 'I "no often the natural flavour of a boiled joint is overpowered by the flavour of the vegetables with which it is cooked. To avoid this, only the quantity sufficient to impart a slight flavour should be cooked in the liquor, and the remainder boiled separately. The flavour of the meat is thus preserved, and the vegetables are a better colour when cooked more quickly than is possible if their rate of cooking is ad-.ptcd to the meat. The side of the joint intended to be dis up\vard> should be put downwards in the boiling-pot, for however gentle the ebullition of the water may be, its action somewhat spoils the upper surface of the meat. Moreover, any scum that is not removed (1 n ing the process of cooking is apt to fall on the upper surface of the. and impair its appearance. For particulars as to time required p. 429.

THK (,<x.r> SHU-HERD.— The office of the Eastern shepherd was one of hardship and even of danger II. u a.-i;«>sed to the rx it and cold. His food was precarious, consisting often of wild ks of wild beasts, inrluHitiK tho h,.n. the wolf, the also exposed to the risk of roving bands of robbers. The shepherd •nrc, watched over th«-m whilr;• hod them with water and at nicht enclosed his flock in the fold, defending it fr 1 beasts and predatory bands, sheep was missing, he searched for it until it was f..Un«l. The Eastern shepherd's office was* mess in caring for the wrak and the 1 his sheep. The -' *•*£ -i-'1 V**T* t!"' Ali u:ti?v - -,-k Hi- s.-rv.,;,:. 0«B Lord, - i h'-< n <!|s( ipl.-s t" \T> -i. h tti'- '.• •-!«•!.,-.•'',. K • •]• !•••!!. \ r /':•••>•.:.•...:-.;..,;.-tney ooey DIS voice, recognize ti\<-; utiftil ficur.

• tenderness for mankind. " The !;i^ lif-- f"r t! • • John, x. ti). "I ^hepberd. and know an.l am kn lohn. x. 14). " And other sh< ••• hn h arc not of >r My voice; and there shall be one fold, and one shepherd " (St. John, x

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993._BONED LEG OF MUTTON, STUFFED.

(Fr. — Gigot de Mouton farci.) Ingredients. — A small leg of mutton boned, 2 ozs. of finely-chopped ham or bacon, 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped suet, 2 finely-chopped shallots, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, -J- a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, i saltspoonful of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, i egg, milk, brown sauce or gravy (see " Sauces and Gravies "). Method. — Mix all the dry ingredients together, adding the needful seasoning of salt and pepper. Moisten with the egg and as much milk as is necessary to bind the whole together, press the mixture into the cavity whence the bone was taken, and secure the opening. Roast before a clear fire, or bake in a moderately hot oven from 2|to 2^ hours, and when ready, serve with brown sauce or good gravy. Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Seasonable at 994.— BRAIN AND TONGUE PUDDING.

(Fr. — Pouding de Cervelles et Langue.) Ingredients. — 4 sheeps' tongues, 4 sheep's brains, i hard-boiled egg sliced, i shallot finely-chopped, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of flour, salt and pepper, £ of a pint of milk, suet paste. Method. — Let the tongues and brains soak in salt and water for 2 or 3 hours, then cover the former with hot stock or water, and simmer gently until the skin can be removed. Line a basin with some of the paste (see " Beef Steak Pudding "), slice the tongues, chop the brains coarsely, place them in the basin in alternate layers, sprinkling each layer with shallot, parsley, flour, salt and pepper, and intersperse with slices of boiled egg. Add the milk, cover with suet paste (see pastes) and boil for 3 hours, or steam for 3^ hours.

Time. — From 3 to 3^ hours. Average Cost, 2S. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient 995.— BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON. (Fr.— Gigot de Mouton braise.) Ingredients. — i small leg of mutton. For the mirepoix: 2 onions thickly sliced, 2 carrots thickly sliced, i small turnip thickly sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns. For the sauce: \\ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, 2 shallots finely-chopped, i pint of stock, salt and pepper, stock or water. Method. — Put the mirepoix into a braising-pan or large stewpan, nearly cover with boiling stock or water, lay the meat on the top,

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and wrap round it a well-greased paper. Put on the lid, which should fit closely, and cook gently from 3 to 3^ hours, adding more stock or water as that in the pan becomes reduced. Half an hour before serving melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallots lightly, then add the flour, and cook until it acquires a nut-brown colour. Keep the meat hot, strain the stock, increase the quantity to i pint, pour it over tho browned flour and butter, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, boil gently for ten minutes, then pour a little over the meat, and serve the remainder in a tureen. Cooked tomatoes, mushrooms, fancifullycut turnips and carrots, small timbales of spinach or green pea puree, haricots verts and macedoine are all suitable garnishes for this dish. Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Seasonable at 996.— BRAISED MUTTON, PROVENCE STYLE.

(Fr. — Mouton braise a la Proven^ale.) Ingredients. — A small leg of mutton (or shoulder, loin or neck, if preferred). For the mirepoix, or foundation: 3 ozs. of butter, 2 large onions, 2 carrots, i turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquct-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, i quart of stock. For the farce: 2 ozs. of lean raw ham, 2 ozs. of pork or veal, 2 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 6 button mushrooms, preferably fresh ones, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, £ a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, i shallot finely-chopped, 2 yolks and i white of eggs, salt and pepper. For the Provencale sauce: i pint of brown sauce, i tomato, i onion, 2 large fresh mushrooms, £ a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of lemon- juice, i oz. of butter, glaze.

Method. — Bone the leg as far as the knuckle. Pass the ham and pork or veal 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, pound it well with the breadcrumbs, herbs, lemon rind, parsley, shallot and eggs, s to taste, and when smooth, rub through a v. Add to the farce the mushrooms cut into small pieces, press it lightly into the i of the leg, and sew up the opening. Slice the vegetables, place them at the bottom of a large stewpan with the butter, bouquet-garni, and peppercorns, and on the top of these lay the meat. I'ut on the lid, cook gently for £ an hour, then add as much hot stock as will 3 parts cover the vegetables and the remainder to make good the re* n in the pan. Cover the meat with a buttered paper, put on the ok gently for 2 hours, basting frequently, then transfer from the stewpan to a hot baking- tin, and continue the cooking for J of an hour longer, keeping the meat well basted with hot butter or fat. Strain the liquor, and either boil it down to glaze, or use it to make the brown sauce (see Sauces'. Melt i oz. of butter in a small stewpan, add the tomato, onion and mushrooms, all of which should be prcvi-

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ously sliced, put in the parsley, cook gently for 15 or 20 minutes, and add the brown sauce, boil lor 15 minutes longer. Season to taste, rub through a fine hair sieve or tammy-cloth, re-heat, add the lemon juice, and keep hot until required. Place the meat on a hot dish, brush it over with warm glaze, garnish it with baked tomatoes, mushrooms au gratin, braised olives, or fancifully-cut glazed vegetables, and serve the sauce separately.

Time. — From 3^ to 3^ hours. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Seasonable 997. —BREAST OF MUTTON, GRILLED OR BROILED.

(Fr— Poitrine d'Agneau Grillee.) Ingredients. — A breast of mutton, salt and pepper, tomato, piquante or other suitable sauce.

Method. — Divide the breast into pieces convenient for serving, and trim away some of the fat. Grill slowly over or in front of a clear fire, in order that the meat may be thoroughly cooked, turning frequently meanwhile, and sprinkling liberally with salt and pepper. Serve the sauce separately.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. per Ib. Seasonable at 998.— BREAST OF MUTTON, TO COLLAR.

Ingredients. — A breast of mutton boned, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped capers, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, -} of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, vinegar, a good pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, i yolk of egg.

Method. — Make a forcemeat of the above ingredients, taking care to season it rather highly with salt and pepper. Flatten the meat, spread the forcemeat evenly, roll up as lightly as possible, and secure with string. Put the roll into a stewpan containing just sufficient stock to cover it, or failing stock, use water and add the bones removed from the meat, also vegetables and herbs to give flavour. Simmer very gently for 2\ hours, then transfer to an earthenware vessel, and strain the stock. Add to it half its quantity of vinegar and a tablespoonful of salt, and pour the mixture over the meat, which it should completely cover. It should remain for at least 5 or 6 days before being used, and may be kept for a much longer time, but the liquor must be boiled up twice a week, and not replaced until quite cold. Time. — To cook, 2\ hours. To pickle, 5 or 6 days. Average Cost,

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999.— BROILED BREAST OF MUTTON WITH CAPER SAUCE. (Fr.— Poitrine de Mouton aux Capres.) Ingredients. — A breast of mutton, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, i dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, milk, salt and pepper, £ a pint of caper sauce, No. 182, stock, or water; when using the latter, add i onion, i carrot, £ a small turnip, 10 peppercorns and Method. — Remove the bones and any superfluous fat, flatten the meat and season it well. Mix the breadcrumbs, suet, parsley, herbs, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper together, and moisten with milk. Spread the mixture on the meat, roll up lightly, and bind securely with string. Put it into the stock or water when boiling (see " Notes on Boiling," p 429), simmer gently for 2 hours, then with the caper sauce poured over.

Tims. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d. per Ib. Seasonable all the year.

THE ORDER OF THE GOLDEM FLEECE.— This military Order, the Toison d'Or, at the time the highest Order of the Austrian and the Spanish courts was founded, 1^29, by Philip III " thrdood" Duke of Burgundy, and of the Netherlands on the occasion of his marriage with tin- Princess Isabella of Portugal. Its emblem, worn suspended from the collar of the Order, i- ti. of a sheep or fleece in gold, and probably owes its origin to the circumstance that the Netherlands were the principal seat of the woollen manufactures. The original number of the members of the Order was thirty-one, including the sovereign at its head. In 1316 the Order was enlarged by Pope Leo X to fifty-two. The Duke of Burgundy was the hereditary Grand Master until the Order, together with their dominions, passed from the Dukes of Burgundy to An-tn.i. In 1700 the (.ifnii.in Kmperor. Charles VI, by virtue of his possession of the Netherlands, and Philip V, Kiii£ of Sp.iin. l*>th l.iid claim to the headship of the Order. The former, however, when unable to maintain his supremacy in Spain, took. with him the archives of the Order to Vienna, where he solemnized with great magnificence its inauguration in 1713. Philip V, on the other hand, declared hinwlf Grand Master, and at the Congress of Cambrai, 1721, formally protested against th smns <>f tin- Kmperor. The dispute, though settled subsequently by the intercession of France, Kntiland and Holland, was frequently renewed, until the Order was tacitly introduced into both i by the names respectively of the Spanish or Austrian " Order of the Golden Fleece," according to the country where it is conferred.

looo.— BROILED MUTTON AND TOMATO SAUCE.

(Fr.— Rechauffe de Mouton — Sauce Tomate.) Ingredients. — Slices of cooked mutton, salad-oil or melted fat or butter, salt and pepper, £ a pint of tomato sauce (see " Sauces "), mashed potato.

Method. — Brush the meat over on both sides with oil or melted fat, sprinkle carefully with salt and pepper, and broil quickly over a clear Serve on a border of mashed potato, with the sauce poured Time. — From 10 to 15 minutes. Seasonable at any time.

looi.— BROILED OR GRILLED KIDNEYS.

(Fr. — Rognons de Mouton Grilles.) Ingredients. Sheep's kidmys, s.dt and pepper, salad-oil or oiled

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Method. — Split the kidneys lengthwise down to the root, remove the skin, turn each half back, and run a skewer through them to keep them flat. Brush over with salad-oil or piled butter, and broil quickly over a clear fire, taking care to cook the cut side first. Remove the skewers, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve as hot as possible. Time. — 5 to 6 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. each. Sufficient, i to each person. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — See " Kidneys Grilled," also recipes for cooking ox-kidney. 1002.— CHAUD-FROID OF MUTTON CUTLETS.

(Fr. — Cotelettes de Mouton en Chaud-froid.) Ingredients. — 8 or 10 cutlets from the best end of the neck, 6 ozs. of liver farce, No. 398, 6 leaves of French gelatine, £ of a pint of tomato sauce, £ of a pint of Bechamel sauce, dressed salad, salt and pepper. Method. — Braise "the neck as directed in recipe No. 1052; when cold cut it into neat cutlets, trim off the greater part of the fat, season with salt and pepper, and cover one side with a thin layer of the liver farce. Dissolve the gelatine in 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water, and divide it equally between the tomato and Bechamel sauces, which should be warm when the gelatine is added. Let the sauces cool slightly, then coat the covered sides of the cutlets, making one half red and the other white. Let them remain on ice or in a cool place until the sauce is quite set, then arrange them in a circle in alternate colours, place a frill on each cutlet, and serve the dressed salad in the centre.

Time. — i|- hours after the meat is* cooked. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45. Sufficient for 7 to 8 persons.

Note. — Brown sauce may be substituted for the white, the combination of red and brown being very effective; or a green chaud-froid sauce may be used instead of the tomato sauce (see Sauces).

1003.— CHAUDFROID OF FILLETS OF MUTTON.

(Fr.— Chaud-Froid de Noisettes de Mouton.) Ingredients. — The best end of a neck of mutton, i oz. of butter, 2 oz. of ham or lean bacon, \ a glass of sherry, £ of a pint of good stock, i onion, i small carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 3 peppercorns, I clove, glaze, dressed salad, 2 whites of eggs, i truffle, Method. — Remove the lean part from the neck of mutton, and cut it into slices about \ of an inch in thickness. Slice the vegetables, cut the ham into small pieces, and place them in a saut6-pan with the butter, sherry, stock, herbs, clove and peppercorns. Season the noisettes on botfc sides with salt and pepper, lay them on the top of the vegetables, cover with buttered paper, cook slowly on the stove or in the

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oven for 40 minutes, basting frequently, then press them between j dishes until cold. Season the whites of eggs with a little salt and pepper, steam in a buttered dariol mould until firm, then cut into thin slices, which must afterwards be stamped into rounds i irch in diameter. Cut the trulflc into thin strips about i inch in length, and rather less than | of an inch in thickness. If necessary, trim the noisettes to make them a uniform round shape; brush one side over with meat glaze, place a round of white of egg in the centre of each, and over it 4 or 5 strips of truffle, lattice-work style. Arrange the noisettes in a circle, slightly overlapping each other, fill the centre with the dressed salad, and garnish the base of the dish between the noisettes with tufts of endive, fancifully-cut slices of cucumber, and, if convenient, cubes of aspic jelly.

Time. — 3 hours. Average Cost, 35. 9d. to 45. Sufficient for 7 or 8 Note. — For noisettes of mutton to be served hot, see " Noisettes d'Ar recipe No. 985.

THE Downs.— The well-known - Ik in its chemical composition;; ure car: liiiif. \\ii,:id examined under the micros* fragments of corals. sponge-or.

i and the palyzoa • rm Ihsub-soil n as the South Downs start !-•«!, traverse the county t>f Sussex from east to «• i Godaltning, by Godstone.

• t hr-5 from Dover to Ramsgate. The Downs trees and shnit The coombc* and furrows which r • • d<vp v.illeys, resemble dried-up channels of streams and rival, N..n the Downs. The vquent on the dryness of the air ! mil. is eminmtlv ' the South-Down breed of sheep is highly valued for its dc.hV.itc flavour, and the wool for its fineness.

1004.— FILLET OF MUTTON, TO DRESS.

(Fr. — Filet de Mouton.) Ingredients.— A la n, veal forcemeat (see " Force-;ii:.'bl«- brown sauce.

Method. This method: ' to a small household v.

cold meat is disliked. Cut of! the knuckle part which, braised or 1 • will supply a dinner on a following clay, 1'min the other « leg err;>iece. tlr: the lillet 3 or more inches in thickness. bone, flatten the meat with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin, season well with salt and pepj pread on the forceRe >11 up tightly, bind securely with string, and either boil, braise,* cording to the di: under respective headthc fillet may be grilled, or roasted in a Dutch neat, of course, being omitted. It will be found < lent if lightly fried, and atti: wards; \ ed with ea or mushrooms. (See also " Oxford John," No. 1055, and 'ton Pudding.")

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1005.— FRENCH HASH. (Fr.— Mirliton de Mouton.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of Patna rice, 3 ozs. of preserved cherries, 4 ozs. of prunes, 2 Ib. of cold shoulder or leg of mutton, paprika pepper and salt, £ of a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244.

Mode. — Boil the rice in a large saucepan with plenty of seasoned water until tender, when drain and dry well. Cut the meat into neat pieces, and put it into the sauce, which must be first made hot. Allow it to simmer very gently for an hour, then add the prunes, previously stewed and stoned, also the cherries and rice. Season carefully with paprika pepper and salt.

Time. — 1£ hours. Average Cost, about 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 1006.— FRIED KIDNEY. (Fr.— Rognons Frits.) Ingredients. — Sheep's kidneys, butter, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the kidneys open lengthwise, but without quite dividing them, and remove the skins. Run a skewer through them to keep them flat, place the kidneys, cut side down, in a frying-pan containing a little hot butter, and fry quickly on both sides. Season with salt and pepper, pour a little hot gravy round them and serve as hot as possible. Time. — 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. each. Sufficient, i for each person. Seasonabb at any time.

1007.— GRILLED MUTTON WITH TOMATO SAUCE.

(Fr.— Tranches de Mouton Grillees, Sauce Tomate.) Ingredients. — Two slices of mutton, about an inch in thickness, cut from the middle of the leg, £ of a pint of tomato sauce. For the marinade: 2 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil or oiled butter, i dessertspoonful of vinegar, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, | of a teaspoxmful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, a pinch of powdered mixed herbs, i saltspoonful of salt, £ a saltspoonful of pepper, potato garnish. Method. — Put the slice of meat on to a dish, pour over it the marinade, and let it remain for 2 hours, turning and basting occasionally. When ready to cook, drain, dry well, brush over with salad-oil or warm butter, and grill over a clear fire for about 15 minutes. Have ready the tomato sauce and some crisply fried straws, ribbons, or chips of potato, place the meat on a hot dish, arrange the potatoes round the base, and serve the sauce in a sauce-boat. The dish may be varied by serving with it mushroom sauce and baked tomatoes, or baked or stewed mushrooms and brown sauce.

Time. — To grill the meat, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. per lbr

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1008.— HARICOT MUTTON. (Fr.— Ragout de Mouton.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of neck of mutton (or scrag end), 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i £ pints of stock or water, i large onion or 12 button onions, 2 carrots, i turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), Method. — Divide the meat into thin cutlets, and trim off the skin and greater part of the fat. When a large onion is used cut it into dice; scoop the carrots and turnip into small rounds, about the 'size of a Spanish nut, or shape them like small olives. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the meat until well browned on both sides, then take it out. Fry the carrot and turnip until they acquire a good colour, then drain them from the butter. Now fry the onion dice or button onions, and when slightly browned add to them the flour, which must be cooked and stirred until it becomes nut-brown. Have ready the hot stock, pour it into the stewpan, stir until it boils, put in the carrot and turnip, then add the bouquet -garni and salt and pepper to taste, replace the meat, and stew gently for i^ to ij hours.

Arrange the meat neatly in the centre of a hot dish, strain the sam r over, and garnish with the onions, carrot, and turnip.

Time. — To cook, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for Note. — When a more simple dish is required, fat may be substitut< the butter, and the turnip and carrot cut into dice.

THE GOLDEN FLEECE.— The beautiful classic legend of the Golden Fleece may be briefly told as Phrixus, a son of Athamus, King of Thebes, to escape from the persecutions of Ino, his stepmother, paid a visit to the court of his friend.-V.etes, King of Colchis. A rani, whose fl< • <>f pun- gold, carried the youth through the air. On his safe arrival at Colchis, Phrixus offered the ram on the Altar of Ares, but kept the golden fleece. dietes received the youth with gre.it kindness and gave him his daughter (. h.driope in marriage; but some time after, he murdered Phrixus to ob-••ssion of the coveted fleece. To avenge the murder of Phrixus and recover the fleece, which was said to be a sleepless dragon, Jason, commissioned bv his uncle P> is, commanded AnjiiS, the son of Phnxus, to build a ship of fifty oars, which he manned with fifty of the m brated heroes in Greece, including Henules r.i-t.-r and Pollux, Theseus, and Orpheu nauts, after various adventure-, re.it -hed I ol< his. and King./Eetes promised Jason the Golde on the condition that he should yoke to a plough two fine-breathing, braren-hoofed oxen, and ~>\v •n's teeth which Cadmus had left at TheU-v Hv the aid of Medea, the sorceress, and daughter of the KniR, who had fallen deeply in love with Jason, the fleece was secured, and brought t Variou^ interpretations have been given to the legend, which probably refers to a voyage of discovery to the coasts of the Euxine by adventurers inspired by the desire to find new fields of commercial entcrp; 1009. -HOT POT (LANCASHIRE).

Ingredients.— 2 Ib. of the best end of the neck, 3 sheep's kid 12 sauce oysters, 2 Ib. of potatoes, i Spanish onion, salt and p< mt of gravy, i oz. of butter, stock.

Method. — Divide the meat into neat cutlets trim off the skin and greater part of the fat. Put the short rib bones, the lean trimming of the meat, the beards of the oysters, and a small onion into a steup.m, cover these with cold water, and boil them down for gravy. < a In. proof baking-dish, put in.1 deep layer of sliced potato, on the top

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Of them arrange the cutlets to slightly overlap each other, and on each place i or 2 slices of kidney, and an oyster. Season well, put in the remainder of the potatoes, but let the top layer consist of small potatoes cut in halves and uniformly arranged to improve the appearance of the dish. Pour down the side of the dish £ a pint of hot stock, or hot Water, seasoned with salt and pepper. Brush the upper layer of potatoes over with warm butter, cover with a buttered paper, and bake for 2 hours in a moderate oven. The paper must be removed during the latter part of the time to allow the potatoes to become crisp and brown. When ready to serve, pour in a little gravy, and send the rest to table in a tureen. The hot pot must be served in the dish in which it is baked.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 43. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Note. — For a more economical dish, see " Hot Pot," made of beef. 10 10.- HUNTER'S MUTTON. (Fr.— Mouton a la Chasseur.) Ingredients. — A boned leg of mutton, 8 ozs. of common salt, 4 ozs. of bay-salt, i£ ozs. of moist sugar, i oz. of saltpetre, i teaspoonful of ground allspice, % a teaspoonful of ground cloves, | a nutmeg grated, slices of bacon.

Method. — Mix the salting ingredients well together, and rub the mixture over the entire surface of the meat, the skin being previously closely scored, to allow the flavour to penetrate. Turn and rub the meat daily for a fortnight, then rinse in warm water, and bind it into a good shape. Place in a deep baking-dish or tin with about \ a pint of water, cover first with slices of bacon, and afterwards with several folds of well-greased paper, which must be secured round the edge of the dish or tin to keep in the steam. Cook as gently as possible for 4 hours, press until cold, then glaze, and use as required. Time. — To pickle, 14 days. To cook, 4 hours. Average Cost, is. ion.— IRISH STEW. (Fr.— Ragout a 1'Irlandaise.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of neck of mutton, 4 Ib. of potatoes, i large onion, 12 button onions, i^ pints of stock or water, salt and pepper, a little finely-chopped parsley.

Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving, and trim off some of the fat. Wash, peel, and slice the potatoes and the large onion, peel the button onions and blanch them. Put a layer of potatoes at the bottom of a stewpan, cover these with a layer of meat, add a slice or two of onion, and season well with salt and pepper. Repeat until all the materials are used; the top layer must consist of potato, and the button onions should be interspersed. Add the stock or water,

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and when it comes to the boil skim well, but unless the meat be very iat very little subsequent skimming is needed, as the potatoes absorb the greater part melted out of the meat. The stewpan must be kept covered, and the contents cooked gently for about i£ hours, or until the potatoes are thoroughly cooked and the stew loses its watery appearance. If liked, a teaspoonful of mushroom or walnut ketchup may be added before serving. Pile in the centre of a hot dish, sprinkle on a little chopped parsley, and serve.

Time. — From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 2S. 9d. Sufficient ioi2.— KIDNEYS, GRILLED. (Fr.— Rognons Grilles.) Ingredients. — Kidneys, croutons of fried bread or buttered toast, salad-oil or oiled butter, Mai t re d'hotel butter, sec fo. 551. Method. — Cover the kidneys with boiling water, and let them remain in it for 2 minutes. Drain, dry, remove the skin, split in two lengthbut without detaching the halves. Pass a steel skewer tl, them, to keep them open, brush over with salad-oil or oiled butter. D with salt and pepper, and grill them over a elear fire, cooking the cut side first. Time required for cookin:- upon th of the kidney and individual taste; 5 minutes will be found sufficient for a small kidney, and S minutes for a large one; kidr. Imost uneatable wln-i: H.ivr the cronions ready and as; a kidney on each with a small pat of maitre d'hotel butu-r in the centre of each kidn< <>nce.

Time. — To grill, from 5 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, jd. to 4d. each. Sufficient, i to each person.

1013.— KIDNEYS, SAUTED. (Fr.— Rognons Sautes.) Ingredients. — 3 sheep's kidneys, i oz. of butter, £ of a pint of 1> sauce, i tablespoonful of sherry, i shallot finely-chopped, sal! pep] Method. — Immerse the kidneys in boiling water for 2 minutes, drain, dry, remove the skins and cores, and cut them into £ inch slices. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallot slightly, put in the kidney, and shake or toss over the lire for 3 or 4 minutes 1 olf a little of the butter, add the brown sauce, sherry, salt and pepper, stir by the side of the fire until thoroughly hot, but do not let the mixture boil. Serve as hot as possible.

Time. — About 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. or.jd. each. Sufficient, i kidney to each person.

r other m--t!'.o-ls of cooking kidneys, sec recipes for dressing veal and beef ki.ii,

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1014.— KIDNEY, RAMAKINS OF. (Fr.— Rognons Sautes en Caisses.) Ingredients. — 4 sheep's kidneys, 8 croutons of fried bread, i£ ozs. of butter, i level dessertspoonful of flour, ^ of a pint of good stock or gravy, £ a glass of sherry or Madeira, i finely-chopped shallot, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Method. — Soak the kidneys for 2 minutes in boiling water, dry, remove the skins and cores, and slice them as thinly as possible. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallot until lightly browned, add the sliced kidneys, toss them over the fire for 3 or 4 minutes, then draw them to the side of the pan farthest away from the fire, and sprinkle the flour on the bottom of the pan on the side nearest the fire. Brown the flour quickly, then add the wine and stock, stir until boiling, season to taste, and draw the pan aside for 4 or 5 minutes, but do not let the contents boil or the kidneys will harden. The croutons of fried bread must fit easily inside the ramakin cases, which should be heated in the oven before being used. Have the cases ready, with the hot croCitons in them, fill each case with kidney and sauce, sprinkle on a little parsley, and serve as hot as possible.

Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 3d. to 4d. each. Sufficient i to each person.

1015. — KIDNEY TOAST. (Fr. — Rognons sur Croutes.) Ingredients. — 2 sheep's kidneys, or £ a Ib. of bullock's kidney, i oz. of butter, •£ a teaspoonful of lemon- juice, cayenne, pepper, salt, 2 slices of hot buttered toast.

Method. — Stew the kidneys in a little stock or water until tender, remove the skin and gristle, and pound them in a mortar until quite smooth. Add the butter, lemon-juice, a good pinch of cayenne, and salt and pepper to taste, and pass the mixture through a wire sieve. Spread lightly on the prepared toast, make thoroughly hot in the oven, Time. — From i£ to 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to nd. Sufficient for 1016.— KNUCKLE OF MUTTON, TO BOIL.

Ingredients. — i knuckle of mutton (see " Fillet of Mutton, to Dress"), i onion, i carrot, £ of a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay -leaf), 8 peppercorns, salt.

Method. — Prepare and slice the vegetables. Place the knuckle in a stewpan just large enough to hold it, and containing sufficient boiling stock or water to barely cover the meat. Add the vegetables, herbs, peppercorns and a little salt, and simmer very gently for about i£ hours (see " Boiled Mutton," also " Notes on Boiling," p. 429).

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If liked, the stock in which the mutton has cooked may be converted into onion sauce (see " Sauces ").

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. 1017.— LEG OF MUTTON, WITH OYSTERS.

(Fr. — Gigot de Mouton aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — A well-hung boned leg of mutton, 12 sauce oysters, i tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, 2 hard-boiled yolks of eggs, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, i shallot finely-chopped, salt and pepper, oyster sauce (see No. 310 " Sauces ").

Method. — Blanch the oysters in their own liquor, which afterwards strain. Chop the oysters coarsely, add to them the breadcrumbs, yolks of eggs, parsley, shallot, and a little salt and pepper, and moisten slightly with oyster liquor. Press the forcemeat lightly into the cavity from which the bone was removed, carefully secure any opening there may be, and bind with strong string. Boil gently in stock, or water flavoured with vegetables and herb's, from 2£ to 3 hours, according to size, and serve with oyster sauce.

Time. — To boil, 2^ to 3 hours. Average Cost, lod. per Ib.; oysters, is. to is. 6d. per dozen. Sufficient for 12 or more persons, according to size. Seasonable from September to April.

1018.— LIVER AND BACON.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of liver, | a Ib. of bacon, flour, salt and pepper. Method. — Put the liver into a basin, cover with boiling water, lot it remain for 10 minutes, then drain, dry well, and cut into \ im h slices. Season i tablespoonful of flour with i teaspoonful of salt, and £ the quantity of pepper, and dip each slice of liver in the mixture. Heat the frying-pan, cut the bacon into thin slices, fry them, remove to a hot dish or tin, and keep hot until required. Fry the liver in the fat from the bacon, but quickly, in order that it may be well-browned 0:1 both sides without over-cooking. Transfer to a hot dish, sprinkle in about a dessertspoonful of flour, let it brown, then add about $ D{ a pint of water, stir until it boils, and strain over the liver. Arrange the bacon neatly on the top, and serve as hot as possible. Time. — To fry the liver, 5 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d. per Ib. '-•'. — See recipe for cooking calves' and ox liver. 1019.— LOIN OF MUTTON, BONED AND STUFFED.

(Fr. — Longe de Mouton, farcie Rotie.^ Ingredients.- -A loin of mutton,;, tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, j tablcspoonfuls of chopped suet, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped ham or

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bacon, i teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, 2 teaspooniuls of chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of grated lemon-rind, i egg, milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper, gravy or sauce.

Method. — Bone the meat, trim away any superfluous fat, and flatten with a cutlet-bat or rolling-pin. Mix all the dry ingredients well together, add a good seasoning of salt and pepper, stir in the egg and as much milk as is necessary to moisten the whole. Spread the forcemeat on the inner surface of the meat, roll up tightly, and secure with tape. Bake the meat in a moderately hot oven for 2 or 2^ hours, according to size basting frequently with hot fat, or, if preferred, the meat may be either braised or stewed according to directions given under the respective headings. Serve with good gravy, brown sauce, or any other sauce preferred.

Time. — To bake, from 2 to 2^ hours. Average Cost, is. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or more persons, according to weight. Seasonable at any 1020.— LOIN OF MUTTON, DAUBE STYLE.

(Fr. — Longe de Mouton a la Daube.) Ingredients. — A loin of mutton boned, 3 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped suet, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped ham or bacon, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, |- of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, i egg, milk, nutmeg, salt and pepper, stock, tomato, brown or other suitable sauce, slices of bacon glaze.

Method. — Place the bones, removed from the meat, at the bottom of a stewpan, and cover with stock, or, failing stock, use water and the usual flavouring vegetables (see recipes for braising mutton). Mix the breadcrumbs, suet, ham, parsley, lemon-rind and a seasoning of salt well together, add a good pinch of nutmeg, and stir in the egg and as much milk as will slightly moisten the whole. Stuff the loin with the preparation, secure the openings, and fold in several thicknesses of greased paper. Place the meat in the stewpan, cover with slices of bacon, put on a close-fitting lid, and cook very slowly for 4 or 5 hours, according to size, adding more stock from time to time. Remove the paper, brush over with glaze, let the meat remain in a hot oven for 10 or 15 minutes, then serve with the prepared sauce. Time. — Altogether, from 4^ to 5^ hours. Average Cost, is. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or more persons, according to weight. Seasonable at 1021.— MEAT AND POTATO PIE.

Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of cold lean mutton, 2 Ib. of potatoes, 2 onions, £ of a pint of gravy (made from the bones and trimmings of the meat),

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Method. — Cut the meat into small thin slices, parboil and slice the potatoes and onions. Line the bottom of a pie-dish with potato, cover with a layer of meat and a few slices of onion, and season liberally with salt and pepper. Repeat until the materials are used, the top layer consisting of potato. Pour in the gravy, cover with a greased paper, and bake about i hour in a moderate oven. A £ of an hour before serving, remove the paper to allow the potatoes to brown. Time. — To prepare and cook, about iVhours. Average Cost, 3d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. 1022.— MUTTON, CASSEROLE OF, ENGLISH STYLE.

(Fr. — Casserole de Mouton a TAnglaise.) Ingredients. — Xc-ck or loin of mutton, good gravy, suet paste, (see pastes), salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the. meat into small chops or cutlets, remove the bones, and trim away nearly all the fat. Place the meat in a casserole it will about £ fill, cover with good gravy, and season to taste. Put on the lid, and cook gently for about i hour, either on the stove or in a moderately cool oven. Meanwhile, make the paste as directed, and roll it into a round or oval f« >rm of smaller dimensions than the casserole. Lay the paste on the top of the meat, replace the lid, and cook gently for i£ hours longer. Divide the paste into sections before serving. Time. — 2\ hours. Average Cost, oxl. to is. per Ib. 1023.— MUTTON CHOPS, BROILED OR GRILLED.

Ingredients. — Loin of mutton, salad-oil or oiled butter, salt and Method. — Divide the loin into chops, trim away any superfluous fat, curl the end round, and fasten securely with a small skewer. Brush over with salad-oil or butter, broil over or in front of a clear fire, turning 3 or 4 times, then season with salt and pepper, and serve. Time. — To broil, 7 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. per Ib. 1024.— MUTTON COLLOPS.

Ingredients. — 6-8 slices of cooked mutton, 2 shallots or i small onion finely-chopped, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, \ a saltspoonful of mace, i dessertspoonful of flour, butter or fat for frying, pint of gravy or stock, lemon-juice or vinegar, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into round pieces about 2\ inches in diameter. Mix together the shallot, herbs, mace, and a little pepper and salt, and SJMV,;<I this mixture on one side of the meat. Let it remain for i hour, then fry quickly in hot butter or fat, taking care to cook the side covered with the1 mixture first. Remove and keep hot, sprinkle the flour on the bottom of the pan, which should contain no more fat

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than the flour will absorb, let it brown, then add the gravy or stock. Season to taste, boil gently for about 1 5 minutes, add a little lemonjuice or vinegar to flavour, and pour the sauce round the meat.

Time. — Altogether, i^ hours. Average Cost, about is. 8d. Sufficient, i Ib for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time.

1025.— MUTTON, CURRY OF. (Fr.— Kari de Mouton.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cooked mutton, £ a pint of curry sauce (see No. 241), boiled rice.

Method. — Remove all skin and fat from the meat and cut it into small thin slices. Make the sauce as directed, let the meat remain in it for at least \ an hour, then serve with well-boiled rice.

Time. — To re-heat the meat, \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at all times.

Note. — See " Veal, Curry of," " Chicken, Curry of," also " Indian Cookery."

1026.— MUTTON CUTLETS, TO PREPARE.

The best end of a neck of mutton must be selected for this purpose. Saw oft" the chine bone and the ends of the rib bones, leaving the part to be divided into cutlets about 4 inches long, but this must be determined by the size of the fillet or lean portion of the meat. The end of each bone must be scraped quite bare to the depth of about £ of an inch. A more even surface and a better shape may be obtained by beating them slightly with a wetted cutlet-bat or chopping-knife.

When the mutton is large, i cutlet may be cut with a bone and i cutlet between each of the bones: when the cutlet frills are attached the appearance of the boneless cutlets is identical with the rest. Nearly all the fat must be trimmed off, and should be clarified and used for frying or making plain pastry and cakes, while the lean parts may be boiled down for gravy or sauce to be served with the cutlets, or when not required for this purpose they may be put into the stock pot.

SHEPHERDS AND THEIR FLOCKS. — From the sheikh downwards, every one in a nomadic state of society is more or less a shepherd. The ancestors of the Israelites in the patriarchal age tended s'leep, and until after the Egyptian Captivity, when the shepherd held a subordinate position, the occupation of tending flocks was undertaken not only by the sons, but also by the daughters of wealthy chiefs. Among the earlier Eastern nations sheep constituted an important part of their possessions. The first mention of sheep occurs (Gen. iv. 2) in connexion with Abel, who is mentioned as a " keeper of sheep." Both the adult and the lamb were used in sacrificial offerings. Many passages in the Bible indicate the magnitude of the pastoral riches of the Eastern people, for instance, the giving of a hundred sheep by Jacob to the children of Hamor as the price of a field, and the yearly tribute which the King of Israel received from the King of Moab, comprising a hundred thousan i sheep, and a similar number of rams with their fleeces. The tendency of sheep to ramble necessitates the care of a shepherd, and it is no easy task to keep a flock within bounds; but the watchful shepherd, aided by his cleverly trained and intelligent dogs, manages to accomplish it without harassing the sheep. In the Hig ilinds of Scotland, where the herbage is scanty, sheep farms are of wide extent, necessitating the services of numerous shepherds.

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1027.— MUTTON CUTLETS, BRAISED. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Mouton Braisees.) Ingredients. — 7 or 8 cutlets from the best end of the neck, larding bacon, i£ ozs. of butter, \ a pint of stock, i onion, i carrot, i or 2 strips of celery, £ a small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), glaze, salt and pepper, \ of a pint of tomato or demi-glace sauce (see Sauces), peas, spinach, or other vegetable garnish. Method. — Trim and flatten the cutlets into a good shape, and insert 5 or 6 fine lardoons, or pieces of fat bacon used for larding, in the lean part of each one. Slice the vegetables, put them into a stcwpun with the butter and bouquet-garni, lay the cutlets on the top, put on the lid, and cook gently for 20 minutes. Have the stock boiling, pour into the stcwpan as much of it as will J cover the vegetables, and add the remainder of the stock as that in the pan reduces. Cover the cutlets with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and cook gently for about 50 minutes on the stove or in the oven. When done, brush over one side with meat -glaze, and put them into a hot oven for a few minutes to crisp the bacon. Arrange them in a close circle on a border of potato, serve the prepared vegetables in the centre, and pour round the sauce. Time. — To cook the cutlets, about \\ hours. Average Cost, is. j VARIOI-S OrALims OK MUTTON. — Mutton is the meat most generally consumed in famil; in the estimation of medical men and connoisseurs, it takes the first place for its dig«-stibilit\ ll.ivdiir. ami its wholosomeness. The mutton of the South Down sheep is the most highly «•and it is also the most expensive. The London and other markets atv lan;rly su|; cillfd half-breeds. \\hic h are a cross between the South Down and the Lincoln or Leicester Sheep of this d r \vripht than that of the true South Downs, and for d by the great sl.eep masters. The legs of this mutton ranpe fi to IT lh. in wcipht; the shoulders. nr< k nt 10 Ib. to i^ Ib.; and if care be taken not to it too fat, it will be found to be tli«- most s.iti-f.ii torv and economical mutton th.it nht. Welsh mutton, although small i: xrellent flavour, and larc< daml and Au>trali.m mutton are now supplied to the London market. The tin«-r inialitios are but littl-- infrri.'r to th'>^<- of homr ppxlurti"ii. I !;• bury," takes the prior place, and is sold at an average rate of i Jd. per Ib. more than the Australian 1028. -MUTTON CUTLETS, GRILLED. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Mouton Grilles.) Ingredients. — 7 or 8 cutlets cut from the best end of the neck, 7 or 8 very small tomatoes stuffed with mushrooms (see \\ uvtubles), £ of a pint of demi-glace sauce (see Sauces), il ozs. of butter, breadcrumbs. Method. — Trim and flatten the cutlets into a good shape. Prepare the tomatoes as directed, and bake them until tender in a moderate oven. Warm the butter, dip in the cutlets, taking care that thr arc well coated, cover lightly with breadcrumbs, and press them firmly on with a knife. Grill them over or in front of a clear fire, turning them (aivfullv j or ^ times, in order that lx)th sides may be equally cooked and browned. Arrange neatly on a border of potato, • matiK-s piled in the centre, and pour the sauce round. Time. From N to i<> minur <k the cutlets. Average Cost, is. per 11). Sufficient for 5 0 <ns.

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1029.— MUTTON CUTLETS, ITALIAN STYLE.

(Fr.— Cotelettes de Mouton a 1'Italienne.) Ingredients. — 8 or 9 cutlets, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped mixed herbs, i egg, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of finelychopped mushrooms, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallots, £ of a teaspoonful of finely-grated lemon-rind, a pinch of mace, clarified butter, salt and pepper, ^ a pint of Italian sauce (see " Sauces ").

Method. — Mix the salad-oil, lemon- juice, herbs, and a little salt and pepper together, pour the mixture over the cutlets, and let them remain for i hour, turning 2 or 3 times. Mix together the breadcrumbs, mushrooms, parsley, shallots, lemon-rind and mace, and season to taste with salt and pepper. Drain the cutlets, brush them over with egg, and coat carefully with the above mixture. Fry in hot butter until nicely browned on both sides, and serve with Italian sauce. Time. — To fry, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 43. to 45. 3d. Sufficient 1030.— MUTTON CUTLETS, MAINTENON STYLE.

(Fr. — Cotelettes de Mouton a la Maintenon.) Ingredients. — 8 or 9 thick mutton cutlets, \ a pint of Espagnole sauce (see " Sauces "), gravy or good stock, 4 tablespoonfuls of finelychopped fresh mushrooms, i or 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped shallot, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i oz. of butter, Method.— Trim the cutlets (see "Mutton Cutlets, to Prepare"), insert a sharp knife, and split the meat nearly down to the bone. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallot until lightly-browned, then add the mushroom and parsley. Season to taste, add a very little gravy or stock if too dry, and toss over the fire for a few minutes. Fill the openings made in the cutlets with the preparation, and press the edges firmly together. Grill over a clear fire, or, if preferred, fry in a little butter until nicely browned, and arrange them neatly on a silver or fireproof dish. Coat them lightly with sauce, sprinkle on the remainder of the mushroom preparation, and cook in a hot oven for 5 or 6 minutes. Serve the remainder of the sauce in a tureen.

Time. — To grill or fry, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, is. per Ib. 1031.— MUTTON CUTLETS, PORTUGUESE STYLE.

(Fr. — Cotelettes de Mouton a la Portugaise.) Ingredients. — 8 or 9 cutlets, 4 tomatoes sliced, 2 shallots or i onion

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sliced, i oz. of butter, i teaspoonful of cornflour, £ of a pint of stock or water, vinegar, castor sugar, salt and pepper. Method. — Trim the cutlets (see " Mutton Cutlets,to Prepare," No. 1026). Heat the butter in a saute or frying-pan, fry the onion brown, add the tomatoes, cook gently for £ an hour, then pass through a fine sieve. Replace in the saute-pan, add the cornflour and stock previously mixed smoothly together, stir until boiling, and season to taste. Stir and boil gently for 2 or 3 minutes, then add 2 or 3 teaspoonfuls of vinegar and a good pinch of sugar, cover and keep hot until required, drill the cutlets over a clear fire, or, if more convenient, fry quickly in a little hot butter or fat. Serve arranged in a close circle on a hot dish with the sauce poured round.

Time. — To grill or fry the cutlets, 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, is. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 persons. Seasonable at any time. 1032.— MUTTON CUTLETS, REFORM STYLE.

(Fr. — Cotelettes de Mouton a la Reforme.) Ingredients. — 7 or 8 mutton cutlets, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped ham, salt and pepper, i egg. For the garnish: i tablespoon ful of shredded cooked ham. i tablespoonful of shredded gherkin, i tablespoonful of shredded champigni tablespoonful of shredded white of egg, i tablespoonful of shredded tru tile, \ an oz. of butter, stock, £ a pint of Espagnole or brown sauce (see " Sauces "). frying fat.

Method. Mix the breadcrumbs and chopped ham together, and season rather highly with salt and pepper. Flatten the cutlets slightly, trim them to a good shape, and coat them first with beaten egg, and atter\vith the breadcrumbs, etc. Melt the butter, add all the shredded lients and a little pepper, moisten with stock, and make thoroughly hot. Fry the cutlets quickly in hot butter or fat until nicely browned, and drain free from fat. Arrange them on a hot dish in a close circle with the garnish in the centre, and the sauce poured round, or, if; < (1. in a close row with the sauce poured round, and the garnish:iged lightly on one side.

Time. — To fry, 6 or 7 minutes. Average Cost, about 4*. 6d. Sufficient tor 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable at any time.

1033.— MUTTON CUTLETS WITH GREEN PEAS.

(Fr.— Cotelettes de Mouton aux Petits Pois.) Ingredients. — 7 or 8 cutlets cut from the best end of a neck of mutton, i pint of shelled peas, J of a pint of Espagnole sauce, 3 ozs. of butter, >pcr.

Method. Trim the cutlets, and flatten them with a wetted cutletbat or heavy chopping-knife. Br.it i Id to it £ an oz. of w.irm

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butter and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper; dip the cutlets in the preparation, and coat them carefully with breadcrumbs. Boil the peas, drain them well, and just before serving put them into a stewpan with i oz. of butter and a little salt and pepper, and toss over the fire until well mixed with the butter. Heat the remaining i£ ozs. of butter in a saute-pan and fry the cutlets quickly until lightly browned on both sides, then drain well. Arrange them overlapping each other on a thin potato border, serve the peas in the centre, and pour the hot Espagnole sauce round.

Time. — To cook the cutlets, from 7 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. per Ib. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

1034.— MUTTON CUTLETS WITH SOUBISE SAUCE.

(Fr.— Cotelettes de Mouton a la Soubise.) Ingredients. — 7 or 8 cutlets cut from the best end of the neck, \ a pint of Soubise sauce, £ of a pint of demi-glace or brown sauce (see Sauces), salt and pepper, salad-oil, or butter.

Method. — Trim aid flatten the cutlets into a good shape, brush them over with oiled butter or salad-oil, and grill over or in front of a clear fire for 8 or 10 minutes. The cutlets should be turned 2 or 3 times, and before serving sprinkle both sides with a little salt and pepper. Arrange them in a close circle on a border of mashed potato, serve the Soubise sauce in the centre, and pour the other sauce round. Time. — 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. per Ib. Sufficient for 1035.- MUTTON CUTLETS, VENETIAN STYLE.

{Fr. — Cotelettes de Mouton a la Venetienne.) Ingredients. — 7 or 8 mutton cutlets, 4 ozs. of quenelle meat, No. 413, 3 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped ham, i hard-boiled white of egg, finely-chopped, i small truffle, finely-chopped, 2 ozs. -of butter £ a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces). For the garnish: i tablespoonful each of hard-boiled white of egg, gherkin and cold boiled ham cut into very fine strips about i£ inches in length, salt and pepper. Method. — Prepare the cutlets, then fry them in 2 ozs. of hot butter, drain and press lightly until cool. Cover one side of each cutlet with a layer of quenelle meat, which in its turn must be covered with a thin layer of chopped ham. Sprinkle half the cutlets with chopped truffle, the remainder with white of egg, and place them in a saute-pan. Pour some of the brown sauce round, cover with a buttered paper and cook on the stove or in the oven for atout \ an hour. Heat the garnish in a bain-marie or over a saucepan of boiling water. Remove the cutlets, add the remainder of the sauce, and boil up. Arrange the cutlets in a close circle on a potato border, serve the garnish in the centre, and pour the sauce round

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Time. — I hour. Average Cost, qs. to 43. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 1036.— MUTTON, DEVILLED. (Fr.— Mouton a la Ingredients. — 8-9 slices of cold roast mutton, oiled butter, bro-.vncd breadcrumbs, lemon- juice, salt and pepper, cayenne, watercress. Method. — Season the meat with salt, pepper and cayenne, sprinkle vi-.h lemon-juice, and put aside for | an hour. When ready, dip it into oiled butter, coat lightly with browned breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderately hot oven for a few minutes. Arrange in a close circle on a hot dish, fill the centre with watercress seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon-juice, and serve.

Time. — To bake, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d. to is icd. Sufficient for a dish.

1037.— MUTTON DORMERS.

Ingredients. — £ a Ib. of underdone mutton finely-chopped, 4 ozs. of cooked rice (see " Rice for Curries "), 3 ozs. of finely-chopped suet, i shallot or small onion finely-chopped, salt and ] breadcrumbs, frying-fat, gravy made from the bones and trimmings. Method. — Cook and dry the rice as directed, add to it the meat, suet, shallot, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, mix the ingredients well together, and form them into cork-shaped pieces. Coat with i id breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until nicely browned, and did in \\cll. Serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley, and send the gravy to table in a tureen.

Time. — To fry, 5 or 6 minutes. Average Cost, 5d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. 1038.— MUTTON, FRITTERS OF. (Fr.— Beignets de Mouton.) Ingredients. — Prying-batter (see " Apple Fritters "). For the meat mixture: $ a Ib. of finely-chopped cooked mutton, i tcaspoonful ot finely -chopped parsley, £ of a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, £ an oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour, £ of a pint of strong stock, salt and pepper, frying-fat.

Method. — Make the batter as directed, and put it aside until required. Melt the butter in a stewpan. fry the onion lightly, then stir in first the flour and alterwards the stock, and boil quickly for 3 or 4 minutes, stirring meanwhile. Add salt, pepper, parsley and the meat, turn the I'lvp.n.i'. i»n on to a plate, and when cool drop pieces about the size of a walnut into the batter. Take them put one at a time in a

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spoon and fry in hot fat until crisp and lightly browned. Drain well, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley.

Time. — To fry, 7 or 8 minutes. Average Cost, 8d., in addition to the meat. Sufficient for 3 persons.

Note. — If preferred, the meat may be cut into thin slices, seasoned with salt and pepper, flavoured with onion or herbs, and, after standing for a time, finished off as directed above.

1039.— MUTTON CUTLETS TALLEYRAND STYLE.

(Fr.— Cotelettes de Mouton a la Talleyrand.) Ingredients. — 7 or 8 mutton cutlets, 4 oz. of cooked chicken, £ of a pint of demi-glace sauce, \ a gill of white sauce (about), i oz. of butter, 1 whole egg, 2 yolks of eggs, 4 preserved mushrooms finely-chopped, 2 shallots finely-chopped, frying-fat, salt and pepper, cayenne, breadcrumbs, vegetable garnish.

Method. — Heat the butter in a saute-pan; trim the cutlets neatly, fry them for not more than 5 minutes, turning them once, then press between 2 dishes until cool. Chop the meat of the chicken finely, pound it in a mortar until smooth, adding the 2 yolks of eggs and as much of the white sauce as is necessary to moisten the meat, season to taste, and rub through a fine sieve. Re-heat the butter in the sautepan, fry the shallots slightly, add to them the mushrooms, cook for 2 or 3 minutes longer, then mix with the meat puree. Mask the cutlets completely with the preparation, brush them lightly over with beaten egg, coat carefully with breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in hot fat. Dish in a close circle on a thin potato border, serve spinach, peas, asparagus points, or whatever may be preferred, in the centre, and pour the hot demi-glace sauce round.

Time. — i hour. Average Cost, is. per Ib. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. 1040.— MUTTON HAM, TO CURE.

Ingredients. — A leg of mutton, i Ib. of salt, £ of a Ib. of moist sugar, i oz. of saltpetre.

Method. — In cool weather let the meat hang for 2 or 3 days. Pound the ingredients for curing in a mortar, dry them well before the fire, then rub them into the meat, taking care that the parts surrounding the knuckle bone are done thoroughly. Repeat the rubbing every morning for a fortnight, turning the meat each day. At the end of the time dry well, rub the centre surface with common salt, let the meat remain under heavy pressure for 3 or 4 days, and smoke it for at least 10 days before using.

1041.— MUTTON, HASHED. (Fr.— Hachis de Mouton.) Ingredients. — Col4 mutton, pickles, brown sauce, breadcrumbs, salt

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Method. — Cut the meat into thin slices, and boil the bones and trimmings for stock for the brown sauce. No..233. Cover the bottom of a greased pie-dish with a layer of breadcrumbs, add 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of brown sauce, and on the top arrange the slices of meat slightly overlapping each other. Sprinkle with chopped gherkins (or other pickle), salt and pepper, and cover lightly with the breadcrumbs and sau:e. Repeat the process until the materials are used, making the top layer a rather thick one of breadcrumbs. Cover with a greased paper, and bake very gently for about £ an hour. Serve in the dish in which it is cooked.

Time.— i hour. Seasonable at any time.

Note. — The re-heating of cooked meat is more fully dealt with in the chaj> tors on cooking veal, beef and tinned meats. Recipes will there be fouiul for curries, croquettes, rt.vsoK-s, meat shapes, meat cakes, meat cr. > HASHED MTTTON. — Many persons hive a decided aversion to hashed mutton: a dislike probably (In.- to tin f.K-t that they have never been properly served with this dish. If, however, the meat r, the gravy well made and abundant, and the sippets nicely toasted, the whole bein^:i is not a despicable di>h, and L» much more wholesome and more appetising; than the traditional cold shoulder, of which fathers and husbands and their bachelor friends stand in n»t unnatural awe.

1042.— MUTTON, IN IMITATION OF VENISON.

(Fr. — Mouton a la Venaison.) Ingredients.— A neck, loin, or leg of mutton, £ of a pint ot vi; £ of a pint of claret or other red wine, 3 bay-leaves, 3 shul. ntiil of pepper, I teaspoonful of pounded Method. — Let the meat hang at least 3 or 4 days, then rub it over with mixed pepper and allspice, and repeat the rubbing at intervals for.jS hours. Mix together the vinegar, wine, shallots and i the meat well with the mixture, and let it remain for j Og frequently. When r- -h in warm water, dry thoroughly, and enclose in a flour and water paste. Cook according to directions given lor ith good gravy and red-currant jelly.

Time. — About 8 days. Average Cost, lod. to is. per Ib. Seasonable 1043.— MUTTON, LEG OF, STEWED. (Fr.— Gigot de Mouton brais6.) Ingredients.— A small leg of mutton boned, stock or water. When. >mon-s. i carrot, £ a turnip, a bouquet-garni ley, thy r.. "-'af), 10 peppercorns. For the forcemeat: | of a Ib. ot mutton trimmings, J of a Ib. of raw ham or bacon, i Sj onion finely-chopped, a clove of garlic bruised, salt and pepper. For ozs. of butter, iK ozs. of flour, i pint of stock, sli

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Method. — Remove any superfluous fat, and from the cavity from which the bone was taken trim off the lean meat needed for the forcemeat. Chop both bacon and mutton finely, add the onion, garlic, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, moisten with a little stock; and fill the cavity with the mixture. Secure any opening that would allow the forcemeat to escape, and bind the meat into a good shape with strong string. Put the meat into a stewpan containing hot stock, or vegetables and hot water to half cover the meat, lay slices of fat bacon on the top of it, and put on a close-fitting lid. Stew very gently for 4 hours, adding more stock or water when necessary. Half an hour before serving heat the butter in a stewpan, add the flour and stir and cook slowly until well-browned. Remove the string from the meat and keep hot; strain i pint of the stock on to the browned flour and butter, stir until boiling, and season to taste. The meat may either be glazed or served with a little of the sauce poured over, and the remainder sent to table in a tureen. Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Sufficient I leg for 10 or more persons. Seasonable at any time.

1044.— MUTTON, MINCED. (Fr— Emince deMouton.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cooked mutton cut into very small dice, i small onion finely-chopped, f- of a pint of stock made from bones and trimmings, f- of an oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, i tablespoonful of walnut liquor, mushroom ketchup or some sharp sauce, salt and pepper, cooked macaroni (see " Breast of Lamb, Milanaise Style "). Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, add the flour and brown it also. Stir in the stock, add the walnut liquor and seasoning to taste, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Put in the meat, draw the stewpan aside, where the contents will be kept just below simmering point, and let it remain for at least -i- an hour. Arrange the macaroni in the form of a border, place the mince in the centre, and serve. If preferred, mashed potato or sippets of toasted bread may be substituted for the macaroni. Time. — From \\ to i£ hours. Average Cost, 6d. or 7d., exclusive of the meat. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. 1045.— MUTTON, MINCE OF, BAKED.

Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of cooked mutton finely-minced, 3 tablespoonfuls of white breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of browned breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i shallot very finely minced, i egg, salt and pepper, i tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup, gravy, a little butter or fat.

Method. — Coat a plain mould or round cake-tin rather thickly with butter or fat, and cover it lightly with browned breadcrumbs. Mix the

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meat, white breadcrumbs, parsley and shallot well together, season rather highly with salt and pepper, and add the egg, mushroom ketchup, and sufficient gravy to slightly moisten the whole. Turn the mixture into the prepared tin, bake gently from i to i£ hours, then unmould carefully, and serve with good gravy.

Time. — To bake, from i to i£ hours. Average Cost, about is. Sufflient for three persons. Seasonable at any time.

1046.— MUTTON PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding de Mouton.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of lean mutton (see " Fillet, to Dress "), suet paste, (see Paste section) salt and pepper.

Method. — Follow directions given for " Beef Steak Pudding." A little kidney will be found a great improvement. Time. — About 4 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 1047.— MUTTON, RECHAUFFE OF. (Fr.-Rechauffe de Mouton.) Ingredients. — Slices of cold mutton, i onion finely-chopped, a few of carrot, a few slices of turnip, £ of a pint of stock made from bones and trimmings, i \ ozs. of butter, i J ozs. of flour, i tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup or some sharp sauce, salt and pepper. Method. Simmer the bones, meat trimmings, turnip and carrot in just sufficient water to cover them for at least i hour, then strain and season to taste. Heat the butter, fry the onion until lightly bnnvned, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until brown, and put in J of a pint of stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste, add the mushroom ketchup, and boil gently for 10 minutes. Place the slices of meat in the prepared s nice, let the stewpan stand for at least £ an hour, where the contents will remain just below simmering point, then arrange the meat neatly on a hot dish, and strain the sauce < Time. —Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, about is 8d. for a dish. Sufficient for 4 persons.

1048.— MUTTON, ROLL OF. (Fr.— Roulade de Mouton.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of lean mutton, i Ib. of ham or bacon finely-chopped, 4 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs,! teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, £ a teaspoonful of finelygrated lemon-rind, £ a teaspoonful of finely -chopped shallot or onion, a good pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper, i or 2 eggs, stock, gravy or sauce, fat for basting.

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Method. — Chop the meat finely, or pass it 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine. Mix with it all the dry ingredients enumerated above, and season somewhat liberally with salt and pepper. Add i large or 2 small eggs, and enough stock to gradually moisten the whole, then form the mixture into a short thick roll. Enclose in 3 or 4 folds of greased paper, bake in a moderate oven for about 2 hours, and baste frequently meanwhile. Half an hour before serving remove the paper, and either dredge the roll lightly with flour, or coat it with egg and breadcrumbs. Serve with good gravy or brown sauce. Time. — To cook, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 45. Sufficient for 7 or 8 Note. — Underdone cold mutton may be utilized in this way, and the ham or bacon may be either raw or cooked. When cold materials are used, the roll should be cooked for about i hour.

1049.— MUTTON SAUSAGES. (Fr— Saucisses de Mouton.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of lean, raw or underdone mutton, 2 ozs. of finelychopped ham or bacon, 4 ozs. of finely -chopped suet, 4 ozs. of breadcrumbs, 2 ozs. of finely-chopped mushrooms, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, 2 eggs, stock, sausage-skins.

Method. — Chop the meat finely, mix with it the rest of the dry ingredients, seasoning liberally with salt and pepper. Stir in the eggs and as much stock as is necessary to slightly moisten the whole. Press the mixture lightly into skins, or, if more convenient, form it into corkshaped pieces or small cakes. Fry in hot butter or fat. Time. — To fry, 8 to 10 minutes. Average Cost, is. 8d, to is. lod. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time. 1050.— MUTTON, SCRAG OF, TO COOK.

Ingredients. — The scrag end of a neck, slices of bacon, stock or water, 2 onions sliced, 2 carrots sliced, £ a turnip sliced, a bouquetgarni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.

Method. — Wash the extreme end of the neck in salt and warm water, saw the rib bones across, and remove the short ends. Place the vegetables in a stewpan just large enough to hold the meat, lay the meat on the top, cover with slices of bacon, and add the herbs, peppercorns and either stock or water to nearly cover the vegetables. Put on a closefitting lid, cook very gently for 2| hours, then coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and bake in a quick oven until nicely browned. Serve with brown sauce, or any sauce of which the stock used in cooking the meat may form the base.

Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 6£d. per Ib.

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RECIPES FOR COOKIM; MUTTON 605 1051.— MUTTON WITH VINAIGRETTE SAUCE.

(Fr. — Mouton a la Vinaigrette.) Ingredients. — 8-9 slices of cooked mutton, sliced gherkin, capers, salad. For the sauce: 4 lablcspoonfuls of salad-oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of vinegar (preferably tarragon), £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped gherkin, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, salt and pepper.

Method. — Mix the sauce ingredients together, adding salt and pepper to taste. Arrange the meat neatly on the dish to be sent to table, pour the sauce over, and put aside for at least i hour. Garnish with sliced gherkin, capers, and small tufts of salad, and serve the rest of the salad separately.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. oxi. to 2s. Sufficient for 1052.— NECK OF MUTTON, BRAISED, WITH BROWN CAPER SAUCE. (Fr.— Carre de Mouton Brais6 aux Capres.) Ingredients. — The best end of a neck of mutton, 3 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of capers, i tablespoonful of caper vinegar, ij pints of stock or water, 2 onions, 2 carrots, i small turnip, 2 stalks of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, 2 cloves, meat glaze, salt and pepper.

Method. — Trim the meat, saw the rib bones across, remove the short bones, and fold the flap under. Slice the vegetables, put them into a stewpan with i oz. of butter, the herbs, peppercorns, and cloves, lay the meat on the top, put on the lid of the stewpan, and cook gently for | an hour. The vegetables must be occasionally stirred or shaken, and when sufficiently fried, add stock to £ cover them, and the remainder as that in the pan reduces. Cover the meat with a buttered paper, and cook gently for about 2 hours. Fry the flour and remaining J ozs. of butter together until a brown roux is formed. When the meat is ready, transfer it to a hot dish, brush it over with the stock reduced to glaze, and keep it hot. Strain the liquor on to the brown roux, stir until boiling, season to taste, simmer for five minutes, then add the capers, and serve in a sauce-boat. If preferred, glazing the meat may be omitted, and a little sauce poured over instead. Time. — To cook, about 2 hours. Average Cost, is. per Ib. Allow 3 Ibs. for 6 or 7 persons.

1053.— NECK OF MUTTON, BROWNED. (Fr.— Carre de Mouton roti au four.) Ingredients. ! of a neck of mutton, stock, 2 ozs. of butter,

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2 ozs. of flour, i egg, breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, £ of a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, pepper and salt, Method. — Saw the rib bones across, remove the short ends, fold the flap under, and bind securely. Place the meat in a stewpan containing as much boiling stock (or boiling water and usual flavouring vegetables) as will barely cover it, simmer gently for i hour, then drain well. Beat the egg, add the parsley, herbs, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and coat the meat thickly with the mixture. Cover lightly with breadcrumbs, and bake in a moderately hot oven until well-browned, meanwhile basting frequently with hot fat. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly until well-browned, and add i pint of boiling stock from the larger stewpan. Stir until boiling, season to taste, simmer gently until required, and serve separately.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 6d., in addition to the meat, which will cost from lod. to is. per Ib. Sufficient for 4 psrsons.

WOOLLEN MANUFACTURES. — The woollen industry was the earliest, and, at one period, the most important of English manufactures, until the great development of cotton manufactures at the early part of the nineteenth century. During the Middle Ages English wool was esteemed the best in Europe. Flemish weavers came to England at the time of the Norman Conquest, and later on, in the reign of Edward III, the settlement of a number of Flemish clothworkers gave the first effective impulse to the woollen industry. Many legislative enactments were passed from time to time for the encouragement and protection of this important manufacture, and it was not until 1824 that a law prohibiting the export of wool was repealed. The distinction between wool and hair is rather arbitrary than natural, wool being in reality a modified form of hair, and similar to it in its chemical composition. It is characterized by a greater fineness in its fibre, by Its softness and pliability, and also by being more scaly than common hair, which gives it its special felting property. The sheep, the llama, the Angora goat, and the goat of Tibet, are animals from which most of the wool used in manufactures is obtained, the last named furnishing the fine wool from which Cashmire shawls are made. Of European wools, the finest is yielded by the Merino sheep, the Spanish and Saxon breeds taking the preference. The Merino sheep, now naturalized in Australia, from whence large quantities of wool are exported, supplies an excellent fleece; but all varieties of sheep-wool, reared whether in Europe or Australia, are less soft to the touch than that grown in India, or than the wool of the llama of the Andes. The best of our British wools are inferior in fineness of texture to any of the above-mentioned varieties, but for the ordinary purposes of the manufacturer they are unrivalled.

1054.— NECK OF MUTTON, TO ROAST. (Fr.— Carre de Mouton Roti.) Ingredients. — Best end of the neck of mutton, fat for basting, salt and Method. — Saw the rib bones across, remove the short ends, fold the flap under, and fasten securely. Roast in front of a clear fire, or, if more convenient, bake in a moderately hot oven, in either case basting frequently with hot fat (see " Roast Mutton " and " Notes on Roasting," p. 428). Serve with good gravy and, if liked, onion sauce.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, lod. to is. per Ib. Sufficient 1055.— OXFORD JOHN.

Ingredients. — Thin slices off a well-hung leg of mutton, 2 ozs. of butter,

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£ of an oz. of flour, 4- a pint of good gravy or stock, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped ham or bacon, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper, i teaspoonful of lemon- juice. Method. — Cut the meat into rounds about 3 inches in diameter, and season well with salt and pepper. Mix the ham, parsley, shallot, herbs, and a little salt and pepper together, spread the mixture on one side of the meat, and pile the pieces one above the other. Let them remain for at least i hour, then separate them and fry quickly in hot butter. Remove and keep them hot, sprinkle in the flour, which the butter should completely moisten, otherwise more must be added, brown well, and add the stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste, add the lemon- juice, and replace the meat. Let the stewpan stand for 10 or 15 minutes, where the contents will be kept just below simmering point, then sc Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. per Ib. Allow i Ib. for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. 1056.— RAGOUT OF COLD MUTTON.

Ingredients. — The remains of a saddle, loin or neck of mutton, i onion shredded, i carrot cut into dice, £ a turnip cut into dice, 2 ozs. of butter or fat, i oz. of flour, $ of a pint of gravy, stock or water, salt Method. — Divide the meat into cutlets, and trim away some of the fat. Heat the butter or fat in a stewpan. fry the meat quickly on both sides, then take it out, and put in the onion. Fry until lightly browned, sprinkle in the flour, and when well-browned add the stock or water. Boil up, season to taste, add the trimmings of carrot and turnip, and replace the meat. Cover closely, cook very gently for i hour, then arrange the cutlets neatly on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and garnished with the vegetable dice, which must have been meanwhile boiled in salted water.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d., in addition to the meat and gravy. Allow i Ib. to 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. 1057.— ROAST HAUNCH OF MUTTON.

(Fr. — Hanche de Mouton Rotie.) Ingredients. — A haunch of mutton.

Method. — This joint requires great care in roasting, for if cooked too quickly the loin is overdone while the thick part of the leg remains insufficiently cooked. This may be remedied to some extent 1 the loin in several thicknesses of well-greased paper, also by the thick part of the leg where it will receive the hottest rays ct IK at from the fire. Follow directions given for " Roast Mutton," also see " Notes on Roasting," p. 428.

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Time. — About 15 minutes per Ib. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Sufficient for 12 or more persons according to size of joint. Seasonable from June to January.

1058.— ROAST MUTTON. (Fr.— Mouton roti.) When possible, mutton should be roasted before the fire, for this method of cooking imparts a more delicate and better flavour to the meat. Whatever the joint, it should be well basted with hot fat before setting the roasting-jack in motion; and for 10 or 15 minutes it must be placed quite close to a clear, bright fire, in order to quickly form a hard surface layer, (see "Notes on Roasting," p. 428). The meat revolves too quickly for it to become over-browned in a short space of time. During the first few minutes the joint should be almost constantly basted, and afterwards at short intervals. The time required for roasting depends principally upon the condition of the fire and the form or the size of the joint (see pp. 428). How TO BUY MEAT ECONOMICALLY. — If the housekeeper is not very particular as to the precise joints she wishes to cook for dinner, there is frequently an opportunity for her to save money in her purchases. For instance, the butcher may have an over supply of certain joints, and will, to get rid of these, make a reduction, sometimes to the extent of id. or i£d. per Ib. It often happens that in consequence of a demand for legs and loins of mutton butchers have only shoulders left, and these they are glad to dispose of at a reduction, especially in very cold weather. 1059.— SADDLE OF MUTTON, TO ROAST.

(Fr.— Selle de Mouton Rotie.) Ingredients. — Saddle of mutton, salt and pepper, fat for basting, gravy, red-currant jelly.

Method. — Remove the skin, pare off any superfluous fat, and take away the fat and kidneys from the inside. Fold the flaps under, bind securely in shape, and cover the back with several folds of greased paper. Roast in front of a clear fire, basting frequently, or, if more convenient, bake in a moderately hot oven (see " Roast Mutton " and " Notes on Roasting," p. 428). Serve with good gravy and red-currant Time. — About 15 minutes per Ib. Average Cost, is. per Ib. Sufficient for from 12 to 18 persons, according to weight. Seasonable at any 1060.— SCOTCH HAGGIS.

Ingredients. — A sheep's paunch and pluck, i Ib. of finely-chopped beef suet, £ a pint of oatmeal, 2 finely-chopped Spanish onions, 2 tablespoonfuls of salt, i teaspoonful of pepper, \ a nutmeg finely-grated, i£ pints of good stock or gravy, the juice of i lemon. Method. — Soak the paunch for several hours in salt and water, then turn it inside out, and wash it thoroughly in several waters. Wash the pluck, cover the liver with cold water, boil it for i£ hours, and

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JOINTS —Roast Loin of Pork.

4.— Round of Beef.

8. -Sit loin of Beef.

a.— Roast Haunch of Mutton. 3.— Roast Aitchbone of Beef. 5.— Le« of Mutton. 6.— Calfs Head. 7 -Ham. 9.— Shoulder of Mutton. 10.— Saddle of Mutton.

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at the end of £ of an hour add to it the heart and lights. Chop half the liver, chop the remainder and the heart and lights finely, mix all •cr, add the oatmeal, onions, salt, pepper, nutmeg, lemon-juice and stock. Turn these ingredients into the paunch, sew up the opening, taking care that sufficient space is left for the oatmeal to swell: if the paunch be over-full, there is a possibility of its bursting. Put the 1 into boiling water, and cook gently for about 3 hours; durir. first hour it should be occasionally pricked with a needle, to all* air to escape. As a rule, neither sauce nor: rvcd with a haggis, a small dish is required, a lamb's paunch and pluck may bo: tuted for those of the sheep's.

Time.— To boil the haggis, 3 hours. Average Cost, ss. 9d. to 33. 9d. 1061. -SHEEP'S BRAINS WITH PARSLEY SAUCE.

(Fr.— Cervelles de Mouton a la Maitre Ingredients, — 6 she pint of white stock, 2 ozs. of butter, ij ozs. of flour, i tcaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i t< ion-juice, * a small onion, i small carrot, i bay-leaf, sal ••er.

Method. — Soak the brains in salt an<! hours, tl.. cover them with \» for 3 minutes. Ki place the brains in fresh o r, let th« until cold, then put them into the-:

sliced, bav: and pepper to taste, an lor 20 minir nan, add the •ok these for 3 or 4 minutes without brownitu:. IV.iir. «> the flour and bur \ tiling, *;. add tht.md seasoning to taste. K mcc, and just before serving add the lemon-ji.

Tim. • } an 1.' '•..;. Average Cost, is. od. t.> js. Sumclenl for 5 or 6 pers"* Hogf. more commonly known as the " Ettricfc SbepnenL" s*epberd'» »W. Under the garb. asp^t. and heart* of m oncuJtuml paMMt-far Us «Mf7 cducaUon was of lh« amt who became interwtucni him to pabfeh a vofaiDe of ballad*, vndar the tote of the MOM** H~4 The ippearad in 1815, and ertabtohed tiojg'» KA^Ov*H»«,&ev5MMW.««e, CBte Ima^inatinn. and swt- i the •bepbcrd at Protoeor Wil**?* " \crtn q t»nw6: •. IBM port H IJ... M,, «-,:.., |] ltd kl m M • -• i r« of hnmoor. Sir.- • • • • - t, • r.- l-tl,.-..,... • •: v- ' •..... • Uon» of the »hejpbeni-pnct u an aero..coov in aheep>tendin«. called Tkt Siup4,.•-,,.,;.....,.,.,....,,,,,,;.....

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1062.— SHEEP'S BRAINS WITH MATELOTE SAUCE.

(Fr.— Cervelles de Mouton en Matelote.) Ingredients. — 6 sheep's brains, vinegar, salt, a few slices of bacon, i small onion, 2 cloves, a small bunch of parsley, sufficient stock or weak broth to cover the brains, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, matelote sauce (see Sauces).

Method. — Detach the brains from the heads without breaking them, remove the skin, cover with warm water, and let them remain for 2 hours. Have ready a saucepan of boiling water, add a little vinegar and salt, and put in the brains. When they are quite firm take them out, and put them into very cold water. Place 2 or 3 slices of bacon in a stewpan, put in the brains, the onion stuck with 2 cloves, the parsley, and a good seasoning of pepper and salt. Cover with stock or weak broth, and boil them gently for about 25 minutes. Have ready some fried bread croutons, arrange them in a dish alternately with the brains, and cover with a matelote sauce, to which the lemonjuice has been added.

Time. — 25 minutes after the brains are blanched. Average Cost, 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

I063. —SHEEP'S HEAD, TO DRESS. (Fr.— Tete de Mouton.) Ingredients. — A sheep's head, 2 tablespoonfuls of pearl barley or rice, 2 onions, 2 small carrots, i small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley thyme, bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, salt and pepper. For the sauce: | pint of liquor the head was cooked in, if ozs. of butter, if ozs. of Method. — Cut the head in half, remove the brains, wash them and put them into cold water, with a little salt. Wash the head in several waters, carefully remove any splintered bones, and let it soak in salt and water for i honr. Cover with cold water, bring to the boil, pour away the water, replace with fresh cold water, add the bouquet-garni, peppercorns and salt, boil up, and skim well. The head must be cooked slowly for about 3 hours; if hours before serving add the vegetables sliced, with the rice or barley, and when the latter is used it must be previously blanched. Remove the skin and fibres from the brains, tie them in muslin, boil them for 10 or 15 minutes in the liquor, then chop them coarsely. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, then add f of a pint of liquor from the pot, simmer for 10 minutes, add the brains, season to taste, and keep hot until required. When ready, bone the head, put the meat in the centre of a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with slices of tongue and the vegetables. Serve the broth separately.

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KKHPFS FOR COOKING MITT* >N 6n Time. — To cook, about 3 hours. Avenge Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d..ED SHEEP'S HEAD.— The village of irltl.r itnl f»r tl.l^ an. I I t i:, ! i,..• •; V II orbaked. The *eq> putttred oo the neighbouring htfe wweriMffctareiat the rtUc*. *• cwcttM were sent to town, but tb« beads were reserved for mtmimptinn by the visitor* to 1 1064. -SHEEP'S HEART. (Fr.— Coeur de Mouton.) Ingredients. — i sheep's heart, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeat), dripping for b.isting.

Method.— Soak trt for i hour in warm water. Cut off the t cars, any cartilage or gristle there may be, and the muscular wall divi. it, and boil them down for gravy. Dry;t thoroughly, till the r it lorconn-.it,.uul tic a greased base to keep in the !«• or 3 ozs. of in a baking-tin, baste the hear: \ a modei; about \\ hours. Gentle cool. frequent basting are ssary to prevent the heart becoming dry and ha; »ne, •• the sediment, pour in the prepared gr. up, season to taste, ai n or serve scpar:>•. The excellence of this dish depends mainly • < served as hot as possible.

Time. I iU)ut i hour. Average Cost, Qd. to is. Sufficient • ts may also be stuffed with onion farce (ste " Bullock's • n\ rtii.-Mt. tiu-y may be cooke«l m l'ii: ite fire, care being taken to baste • with dripping -ill tin- tuur.

1065. SHEEP'S TAILS. (Fr.— Queues de Mouton.) be dress. vteil in the i Sheep's Ton^ »od stock until tender, and served •rt.iM" garnish and \.uce.

1066. SHEEP'S TONGUES, BRAISED. (Fr.— Langues de Mouton Braisees.

Ingredients p's tongues, j of a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces), i i or. of butter, i or 2 slices turnip, i or 2 strips ol • •, 6 peppercorns, J a pint of stock.

Method. Soik the t««:

i into.1 M

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on the top, put on the lid, and cook gently for 20 minutes. Then add hot stock to nearly cover the vegetables, lay the bacon on the top of the tongues, cover with a greased paper /put on the lid, and cook gently for 2^ hours, or until the tongues are tender. When ready, skin them, slit them in halves lengthwise, brush over with warm glaze, place them on a buttered paper on a baking-sheet, and put them into a moderate oven for a few minutes to re-heat. Dish in 2 rows on a bed of mashed potato, or a puree of spinach, pour a little hot sauce round, and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat.

Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, is. lod. to 2s. 2d. Sufficient for 1067.— SHEEP'S TONGUES, FRIED. (Fr.— Langues de Mouton f rites.) Ingredients. — 4 sheep's tongues, ^ of a pint of tomato or piquante sauce, 3 ozs. of butter, breadcrumbs, mirepoix of vegetables, as in preceding recipe.

Method. — Braise the tongues as directed in the preceding recipe. Warm the butter, dip each half tongue in it, and coat these with breadcrumbs, pressing them firmly on with a knife. Turn the butter into a saute-pan, and fry the tongues until the entire surface is lightly browned. Dish on a bed of spinach or green-pea puree, and serve the sauce round the base of the dish.

Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, 4d. each. Sufficient for 5 or 6 1068.— SHEEP'S TROTTERS, STEWED. (Fr.— Pieds de Mouton en Ragout.) Ingredients. — 2 gangs (8) of dressed trotters, i small onion, i tablespoonful of flour, milk, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the trotters, put them into a stewpan, cover them with milk and water in equal proportions, add the onion sliced, season with salt and pepper, cover, and cook gently for about 3 hours, or until the bones may be easily removed. Take away the bones, strain the liquor if necessary, add milk to increase the quantity to £ of a pint, return it to the stewpan, and re-heat. Mix the flour smoothly with a little milk, pour it into the stewpan, stir until boiling, simmer for 10 minutes, and season to taste. Replace the trotters, and when thoroughly hot, serve.

Time. — From 3 to 3^ hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 6d. Sufficient Note. — Sheep's trotters may also be boiled in stock or water until the bones are easily removed, and afterwards marinaded and fried in batter. Or they may be stuffed with sausage meat or veal forcemeat, and either coated with egg and breadcrumbs, or dipped into batter and fried in hot fat. (See recipes for cooking calf's feet and cow-heel.)

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io69.-SHEPHERD'S PIE.

Ingredients. — £ a Ib. of cold mutton, i Ib. of mashed potato, i oz. of butter or dripping, £ a pint of gravy or stock, i teaspoonful of parboiled and finely-chopped onion, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into small thin slices. Melt half the butter or fat in a stewpan, add to it the potato, salt and pepper, and stir over the fire until thoroughly mixed. Grease a pie-dish, line the bottom thinly with potato, put in the meat, sprinkle each layer with onion, salt and pepper, pour in the gravy, and cover with potato. The potato covering may be given a rough appearance by scoring it in every direction with a fork, or it may be made to resemble an ordinary crust by being smoothed over with a knife, notched at the edges, and brushed over with the yolk of egg before baking. When egg is not used for this purpose, the remainder of the butter or fat must be put on the top of the pie in small pieces. Bake in a moderate oven until the surface is \vell-brownod.

Time. — To bake, from 30 to 40 minutes. Average Cost, lod. to is. 1070.— SPICED MUTTON. (Fr.— Mouton Epice.) Ingredients. — A boned leg or shoulder of mutton, 8 ozs. of common salt, i oz. of bay-salt, J of an oz. of saltpetre, 4 ozs. of moist sugar, I teaspoonful of pepper, i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, i saltspoonful of powdered allspice, i saltspoonful of powdered cloves.

Method. — Mix the ingredients together, rub the preparation well into the meat, and repeat daily for a fortnight. When ready, rinse in warm water, and bind into a good shape with strong tape. Cook very gently for 5 or 6 hours in good stock, or water flavoured with vegetables, press between 2 dishes until cold, glaze, and use as required. Time. — To pickle, 14 days. To cook, 5 to 6 hours. Average Cost, iod. to is. per Ib. Seasonable at any time.

1071.— SQUAB PIE.

Ingredients. — j Ib. of neck of mutton, 2 Ib. of apples sliced, i Ib. of onions sliced, i tabk'spn.,niul of mushroom ketchup, sugar, salt and pepper, suet paste (see Pastes).

Method. — Divide the neck into cutlets, place them in a piedish, and •eaeon rather well with salt and pepper. Add the apples and onions in layers, sprinkle with sn.ua r, and half fill the dish with boiling water. Bake in the oven for about i£ hours. Before serving, pour the gravy out at the side, skim off all the fat, add the mushroom ketchup, te, and return to the pie. Serve hot. Bake in the •i for about i£ hours.

Time. — Two hours. Average Cost, js. 3d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 per-

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1072.— TIMBALES OF MUTTON, MERIDIONAL STYLE. (Fr.— Timbales a la Meridionale.) Ingredients. — f- of a Ib. of lean tender mutton, 8 or 9 Spanish olives, 2 tablespoonfuls of Espagnole Sauce, No. 244, i tablespoonful of cream, i tablespoonful of sherry or Madeira, % an oz. of butter, 2 eggs, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, No. 281, nutmeg, salt and pepper. | of a pint of demi-glace sauce, No. 242.

Method. — Pass the meat 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, pound it in a mortar until quite smooth, then add the eggs one at a time, and the butter, Espagnole sauce, cream and wine. Season to taste with salt and pepper, add a pinch of nutmeg, pound until smooth, and pass through a wire sieve. Butter 8 or 9 small dariol moulds, fill them with this preparation, leaving a small hollow in the centre of each, in which place a teaspoonful of tomato sauce and an olive filled with a little of the meat farce. Cover with farce, place the moulds in a saute-pan containing boiling water to half their depth, bring to the boil on the stove, then cover with a greased paper, and finish cooking in a moderately hot oven. Serve with the demi-glace sauce poured over them.

Time. — To cook, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. to 35. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable at any time. 1073.— TONGUES IN PAPER CASES. (Fr.— Langues de Mouton en Papillotes.) Ingredients. — Sheep's tongues, stock. To 2 or 3 tongues allow \ a pint of brown sauce, No. 233, \ an oz. of butter, i tablespoonful of chopped mushroom, i shallot finely-chopped.

Method. — Soak the tongues in salted water for 2 or 3 hours, and afterwards simmer them in stock for about 2 hours, or until tender. Skin them, cut them in halves, and trim away all the root of the tongue. Heat the butter, fry the shallot lightly, add the mushroom, toss over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, then put in the sauce and bring to the boil. Have ready some well-oiled sheets of foolscap paper, lay half a tongue in each, adding a little of the prepared sauce. Fold neatly, place the cases on a baking-sheet, cover with 3 or 4 folds of greased paper, bake gently for 1 5 minutes, then serve in the cases.

Time. — To simmer, about 2 hours. To bake, 15 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. each. Allow one case for each person.

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ON THE COMMON HOG.

niAlTKR XX General Observations on the Various Breeds of Home and Foreign Pigs, Manner of Cutting Up, Table of Prices, etc.

The hog belongs to the class Mammalia, the order I'n.milata. the UCIHIS Sus Sen and the specie* I 'achydei mata, or thickskinned. Its generic i li.ii.-ctcrs are a small head with a flexible snout. When fully matuied. say.it twenty months old, it has 44 teeth.: molars, 4 canine teeth. 4 tu^ks..5 < 01 mis and 8 incisors. The Jew animals which possess teeth at birth, number four above and four in the 1. and are so sharp te of parturition CXCeedi the normal period, that it is frequently necessary to b: i ott in • the udder of its mother or th.

bour. By tlie time the pi'jlur: has arrived at the age of four or five. twelve of the tt mp«>i,i!\ molars will have appeared, and the eight temporary incisors be developed. The; in the dentition of pigs take place at periods of about three months so tli.it all the temporary teeth will be present by the time th old. and all the permanent teeth in evidence at eighteen months, although these \\ill not be fully.mown until the pi.^ has reached the age of about twenty months, i >ur v sur-eo: th.it -nations in th-.an in any of our <:

i animals, but this opinion j;ly contested ibitors:n the number and position of the teeth physiologists arc enabled nature and functions of the animal; and from those of the ho- it is evident: as much of a i a biter, or can table as on animal food, though a mixture of both:nly indicated as: of food most conducive to the lintenance of its phy:hc hoof of the pi^ is as. rule cloven, there are d remarkable e\< • some of the pi.irs in the United Sardinia, etc.. in which the hoof is cntii' uncl (115

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Few domestic animals are so profitable or so useful to man as the much-maligned pig, and no other yields him a more varied or more luxurious repast. The prolificacy of the pig is extraordinary; even this is increased when the pig is under domestication, but when left to run wild in favourable situations, as in the islands of the South Pacific, the result in a few years from two animals put on shore and left undisturbed, is truly surprising, since, they breed so fast and have such large litters, that unless killed off in vast numbers both for the use of the inhabitants and as fresh provisions for ships' crews, they would degenerate into vermin. In this country the sow usually has two litters in each year; the breeding seasons are generally between January and October; the period of gestation is about 112 days or 1 6 weeks,• the strong and vigorous sow will probably carry its young a few days longer, whilst the old and young sows, which are not so vigorous, will generally farrow their pigs a few days before this period has expired. The number of the litter cast will depend upon the breed; the larger and the cross-bred sows will average ten to twelve in a litter, and the small breeds eight to ten each trip. Instances have been recorded of a sow having as many as twenty-three pigs at one farrowing. Much greater care has of late years been taken in the selection of young sows from those litters which are the produce of sows which are not only prolific but which are good sucklers; by this means the average number of good pigs in each litter has been increased, and of course the breeding of pigs has thus been rendered more profitable.

Even within the last quarter of a century it was frequently declared that a pig was very subject to many diseases caused by its gluttony and its manner of hurriedly consuming very large quantities of food. This idea has become exploded, and it has been proved that it is not so much the large quantity of food which a pig will consume which occasionally causes bilious attacks and feverish symptoms which, if not relieved by medicine and exercise, frequently end in the death of the pig, but illness is more generally due to injudicious feeding on too rich foods, and the neglect of giving to the pig some corrective in the form of coal, cinders, chalk or mere earth whilst the pig is kept confined to his stye. Another exploded idea is that pigs availed themselves of every opportunity to rub themselves against any post or projection in order to open the pores of the skin, blocked up with mud and to excite perspiration. The fact is the pig does not perspire; this renders it so very subject to the risk of death from over driving in the hottest part of a hot summer's day. Even this risk is greatly mitigated, if not wholly avoided, by applying some cold water to the head of the pig between the ears, whereas if the water be thrown over the whole of the carcass of the pig, death will almost certainly follow.

It is a boast of the Chicago pork packers that every particle of the

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 017 pig is converted into something useful. The skin can Miu-d, when it is used to co apableof being (1 pressed in imitation of well-nigh. skins, cm and other, then it is used in the manufacture of pur-. jx>rtring of chairs, etc., and < tent has been the skin of the ho^' in place of the rubber tyres on shionable carriages of the monied classes. The hair of tl. i of the semi-domesticated pig in Russia, 1I is still used in the making of brushes, as it n od t«» be ••lakers in the sewing and stitching of boots and ng such vast herds of j ly on Indian corn or mai/e, the value c pig nv r than of any other portion, as tl. 1:1 the manufacture of lard foi ic use. Now millions of fat pigs arc annually:i ago and five or six 01 n the ndered and, repoi •!

proportion of cotton-seed-oil, and expoi •• and other i oanti i« I I - Kazd. This and the great c '. the tastes and habits of the inhabitants of the Bn: ds has led to quite: type of j;i shortening of tinVarieties of the Domesticated Hog.— The distinct v. hog are comprised m th<>^ ktd alter by ies formed for the purpose, amor. • t others, of keeping a register ol " th. the pigs <• Mg breeds: 1J.< ^hires, su' Middle local breeds of more or less e Dorset, the spotted black and white sandy nd in 1 Morthanr I and t>;xrl.ind. the I.nu( In-liirc or Cambridgeshire, the \ and the Essex. n breeds of pigs, such as < se or the ixx-n irui>ortcd into this country, but tin -y have ln-rn absorbed into the Englisl been so great a cl my of our doni of stock as in the pig. This is due to m >es, of: are the gi of living am residents in both town and country, and the iutr«>d.. of mild curing b.K«'ii.;nd hams. Both of these changes • years ago. vinous risequent large ad • the salaries of the cv. of all elasMi -r more expen its ol liner quality b- •:n lieu |x>tk whirh used to do duty r nies of s. The syst< mild.rers to carry on th«vcar round, so that no difficulty

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was experienced by them in satisfying the greatly increased requirements of the public, a totally different style of pig was needed for conversion into bacon, a comparatively speaking light and only partially fattened pig best suited the tastes of the consumer, who had begun to look with disfavour on the heavily salted fat pork of the olden days, when it was actually necessary that the meat should be fat, since the lean meat became so hard and indigestible when heavily salted. Small hams, of some 12 to 15 lb., were called for in place of those huge masses of meat, weighing from 30 to 50 lb., which formerly did duty as hams; the more expensive cuts of bacon also became in far greater demand than the cheaper parts of the side of bacon, so that the curers in selfdefence were compelled to ask the breeders of pigs to produce fat pigs with as much as possible of those parts, such as the ham and lengthy sides which, when cured, realized the highest price, and which were most in demand. Again, the demand for the early fattened pig, weighing some 60 lb. dead weight, increased to an enormous extent in London and in many other of the large towns; this too tended to the reduction in the size of the pig generally bred, as the jointer or London porket pig is considered to be as profitable an animal to produce as any of our domesticated animals. The producer of fat pigs in the Midlands and southern counties of England has therefore two markets to study — the demand for the porket pig with a carcass of some 60 lb., and the bacon curers' and retail butchers' pig, which will weigh about 160 lb. when dressed. In the northern counties, where the temperature is cooler and the general customer of a somewhat different class, fat pigs of 300 lb. are still sought and in common demand. The severity of labour in the so-called Black Country may also have some influence on the kind of food required. The manufacturer of meat, like the producer of any article for consumption, must consult the wants of his customers; this requirement has had a strong influence on the form and quality of even our different breeds of pigs. For instance, the Large White Yorkshire and its ally, the Lincolnshire and Cambridgeshire, white pigs with many blue spots on the skin, has of late years become a general favourite amongst pig breeders, because it has so readily conformed to the present-day wants, early maturity and quality of meat. In the olden days the Large White Yorkshire was a quick-growing pig, strong in the bone, coarse in flesh, skin and hair, and remarkably slow in maturing. At the present time no variety of pig will so quickly become of the weight desired by bacon curers and butchers generally; not only so, but the form of the carcass and the quality of flesh, skin and bone is equal to that furnished by any kind of pig. This great change has been brought about by selecting for breeders those pigs possessing hard flat bone, thin skin, fine silky hair and early maturity. As can readily be understood, a pig of this type must be a profitable manufacturer

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 619 of meat, since it has to grow nothing which a good cook is unable to convert into food for man. The present day Large White Yorkshire has rather a long head with a light jowl, the shoulders are light and obliquely laid, the ribs are well sprung and deep, the back is long, the loin is slightly arched and of fair width, the flank is thick — indicating lean flesh and much of it — the quarters are lengthy, the ham long with meat to the hocks, the bone generally is fine and the hair white and silky. Both boar and sow are docile and very prolific, With such characteristics it is bound to be able to furnish a e of pork suited for the London provisioner, the bacon curer or the butcher in the northern counties, where larger and fatter pigs are in demand.

The Middle White Yorkshire has of late years been vastly impr rly maturity, fine quality of meat and suitability for supplying the wants of Londoners and dwellers in large towns with small and luscious joints of pork, has rendered it a general favourite an '{MIS, win i have the command of hotel and dairy refuse. Manv Middle White pigs and crosses of this breed are now kept in the neighbourhood of large towns and fattened on meal of various kinds. HUM d with soup manufactured from the odds and ends of bread, meat, potatot collected daily from the large hotels and other public and private establishments; this collection of 1 ly steamed or boiled, then the bones or pieces which will not dissolve are straii. the soup is allowed to cool, and when the fat is skimmed off the liquor is fit for mixing with the: the mi\tu!.old in the summer, whilst in winter the soup is warmed, so that the digestive or-. ins of ti -in at once ul of a certain amount of animal:

d to first warm up the food on which the pig is fed. Tin ! grow and fatten rapidly, furnishing a carcass of fine mme 65 Ib. ere they.-.re live months old. The points of a Middle are soni --illar to the I^arge White Yorkshire, but on a smaller scale and more ounpai t; the head, ears and legs are sh< still, if the Middle White be kept until it reaches the age of some nine or ten months, it will furnish sides of pork suitable for the country butcher's trade, and weighing oo to I2O Ib. each. Boars of tinare in great demand both at home and abroad for crossing on the coarser breeds of pigs for the production of London porkets and small pigs, of which many thousands are imported into England each m Holland. Belgium and IVnm.tik.

In yeait gon<- by the black and white pig which has been known as the iVrkshire -and the Small \Y: -hire occupied the posi•aken up by the '. d Middle White Y«»rk; the Small White t. to be bred, whilst i its formation and M its colour,.ng to the standard

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set up by the British Berkshire Society, a black pig, having a white mark or blaze down the face, four white feet, and a white tip to its tail; indeed, so strong are the prejudices as to colour, that it is quite an unusual thing to find a Berkshire judge giving a prize to a pig of the breed which fails in its " markings."

The breeders of Berkshires have considerably altered the type, form and character of their favourites during the last thirty years. The present day pigs are shorter and deeper in the carcass; they have shorter and heavier heads, and are altogether more compactly built; to such a state of this kind of perfection have the breeders brought their pigs, that a well-fattened Berkshire is one of the most successful fat show pigs of the day. A cross between the Berkshires and the Middle Whites is very common and very successful for breeding London porket pigs; the white pig is considered to be more prolific, and the cross-bred pigs grow faster when young than the pure bred Berkshires.

The admirers of the red-haired Tamworth pig claim that some of the good properties of the old-fashioned Berkshire were obtained from the infusion of a considerable portion of the blood of the bronze coloured pig, which was extensively kept in olden times in the forests of the midland counties, where they picked up their living during the greater part of the year. These pigs were of a tawny or sandy colour, with black spots on the skin when young, but gradually assumed a grizzly bronze hue as they grew older; they were very prolific, and the sows were good sucklers — qualities which are not so much in evidence amongst the present fashionable light red pigs, which still retain the long snout, somewhat thick shoulders and short backs, with drooping rumps. Their aptitude to fatten has been greatly increased, and the disposition of the sows has been much improved. Some few years since considerable numbers of the improved type of Tamworth were used to cross on the black sows in those counties which supply the Calne and other bacon factories with fat pigs; this is not so general now, since the crosses were found to be too short from the shoulder to the hip and too light in the flank to furnish enough of the so-called streaky part of the side of bacon, which realizes much more money per Ib. than any other cut.

A new candidate for public favour in the form of the so-called Large Black pig has been considerably boomed during the last five or six years. At present the type is not quite fixed; the sources from which the material from which the breed has been evolved are mainly two, Cornwall and Essex, but the type of Large Black pig found in the two counties varies greatly. At the present time the lop-eared, somewhat heavy jowled, thick shouldered and round boned Cornwall type is most successful in the show yards. The sows are prolific and firstrate mothers, and the young pigs are hardy and quick growers, whilst the matured fat pig is of great weight, but there is still room for im-

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ERAJL OBSERVATION OH fHE COMMON HOG 621 mcnt in the head and shoulders and in the length and quality of carcase '1 'ho fat pigs sell readily amongst the miners in ' wall, but it is doubtful if the consumers in the eastern midlands and London will purchase pork very freely winch is made from the present fashionable type of Large Black.

The Blue-Black pig found in Sussex has many good qualities j it is a good fora. •, is prolific and hardy, and the pigs turn for the fatting food when they tinvd, which is at rather a late period of their lives.: !y maturity may have been one of the causes for the cross; s with i hire or Dorset boar. The cross bred v the Bcrksl; icn more nadily and i nality of pork not be c< but the cross bred pigs are certainly of a more pleasing; and carriage.

The Dorset was also of a slate colour and, like the Sussex. v.y. pure bred specimens of the fl now be found; the br> at the fat stock shows he-Id in London and other asserted tha t 1 >orsct mall Black boar, in order to incr ly. In this the breeders were very successful; some ! at the Smithlield Club's shows were certainly Is of obesity, but.isscs proved to be men: bl.uM •s quant !iufacturcd from maize and cottonseed «-i'. imported into this COB The so-called Oxfordshire or plum pudding pig. found in p.r Xortl rshire and O !v lost at • time. The use of Neap- ! other boars of a black has well nigh converted this local breed into one of iv with !•• e colour. Sows of this ch. iHiints; their ability to rough it and t< 1 with which the midland counties far ouritc. The sows are good m« d the •ul when put up to: it pigs also fur n is •• Inch hov ^ cost rather a high price to pi The Cumberland or North County pig was a prime tc for supplying the well-known and much appreciated Cumber! s of old-fashioned curing.

^elf was of considerable but not as bulky as the Large Y; its bon fnr tl he Cumberland h<\- is still another of the local 1.ised to < n. It has

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been well nigh crossed out of existence. The pigs found at present in the northern counties are of no particular type; they appear to be mainly crosses of the Yorkshire boar on the country sows, their age and substance varying according to the local demand for pork which is ruled by the calling of the inhabitants. The pig country, par excellence, is North America, where the porcine population is said to total some forty millions. A very large proportion of these are Poland Chinas, Durse-Jerseys, Chester Whites, Victorias or Cheshires; all of these breeds are claimed to be new breeds of home manufacture. This may or may not have sufficient foundation. The Poland China is a compound breed; its present appearance — fashion in pigs changes as much in the United States as fashions generally do in this country — is very similar to a Berkshire, of the thick-shouldered, heavy-boned type, save that the ears are somewhat longer, and broken or bent in the middle instead of being pricked, as is the ear of the Berkshire. There is no doubt that the Poland China is a marvellous pig for the manufacture of lard out of Indian corn, or, as we term it, maize. The Durse-Jersey is a red pig of much the same conformation as the Poland China; its breeders however claim that it is more prolific. Chester Whites and Cheshires are white in colour; the former is a somewhat coarse lard-producing hog; the latter is a longer pig, and more of what we should term a bacon hog of indifferent quality. The Victoria is a compound pig of a white colour, which is due to the use of a white boar of the socalled Suffolk or Small Yorkshire breed; these breeds in turn appeared to be really importations of Middle White or Small White pigs from this country. The Berkshire and the Chester White sows appear to have been used to build up the Victoria pig, which is very similar in appearance to many of the cross Middle White and Berkshire fat pigs shown in the Middle White and cross bred classes at the Smithfield Show in London. The pork packers in the States have been endeavouring of late years to induce pig breeders to pay more attention to the length and quality of flesh and bone of their pigs, in order that they may capture a share of the high class English bacon trade; their success so far has not been great, as not only is it necessary to have the right type of pig, but it is also imperative that the pigs must be fed on a mixture of foods, of which maize forms only a comparatively small proportion during the latter part of the fatting period. Pig breeders in the British Isles are more likely to find far stronger competition in the bacon manufactured in Canada and Denmark than in that produced in the United States. The pigs in the Dominion were of a mixed character, and more suitable for the production of mess or barrel pork, such as is used up country in the lumber districts of Canada; these barrels of fat pork and the other necessary, but not very varied, supplies of food are sent up into those parts where the lumbermen will work for some months entirely separated

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 623 from the world. The cold is intense, so that a great amount of fat is needed to keep up the warmth of the body. Some t unity or more years since one or two of the chief pork packers in Canada imported a number of Large Yorkshire pigs from one of our best herds. The improvement in the form and quality of the pigs was so great other importations \\crc made. Then a few Tamworths v. These also tended to increase the proportion of lean in the country pig, so that at the present time nearly all the pigs killed and cured in the bacon factories — of which several have recently been built — are of the Yorkshire crossed with Berkshire, Tamworth, Poland China and native pigs. At the present time Canadian bacon is very largely consumed in this country, where the price realized for it is greatly in excess of that made of the American bacon. This for two reasons: the quality is superior, due to the pigs having been fed on a r. diet and dairy offals, instead of mainly maize, and the form of the side of bacon and ham is betu -r. the finer quality parts forming a i proportion of the side. The marvellous improvement in the quality of the Canadian bacon is clearly shown in the following e-a speech recently made by Mr. F. YV. Hodson, the Live Stock Commissioner at Ottawa, a man to whom the Canadian farmers are Iv indel.

1 Twelve years ago we exported $600,000 worth of inferior bacon; now we arc exporting nearly $15,000,000 worth of superior bacon. The measure of success achieved is mainly due to breeding along one line — the line of bacon hogs. We have not yet gone as far as we should have gone. In Denmark they use one breed only (the White Yorkshire), and the result is that Danish bacon sells at ti.tilings per long cwt. above Canadian bacon. The Danes do not better than our people, but they breed better. You cannot produce the first-class bacon required to build up our export in this line if you use the thick, fat American breeds of hogs as your foundation stock. By using the right kind we can share in the monoj)olv of tlu- best bacon trade in the world (the English), which is now divided between I >e:nn.irk. Ireland, a small part of England and bursel\ Tin- ible and correct speech clearly points out the sources of supply of the enormous quantity of breakfast bacon now consumed •land. A few yea; land furnished us wit h all t lie imported bacon, then <. and Sweden. A protective:ig stutN 90 raided thc«priccof the raw artule. tli, it the: to be convi: bacon at The •tected count: md others K. where the Government has greatly helped the: and tl >r by gi\ -mis <>n everv }>« the best 1. utd, and in rli the IM\\.M j>.^ibl<- rai s and bacon. The G«

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ment also sent experienced men over to England to inspect all the noted herds of Yorkshire pigs and to purchase specimens; these last were bred from in Denmark, their breeding and fatting qualities were noted, and their product in the form of bacon compared. The result was a number of both boars and sows were purchased from one old breeder during several years; herds were thus established in Denmark, so that now only occasional boars are imported to secure a slight change of blood; and Danish bacon is fast approaching the value and quality of the Irish bacon. This last has certainly not made anything approaching the improvement of late years which has been noticeable in the Danish product; the Irish bacon had already acquired a high character, and the importation of the finest Large Yorkshire pigs from England has not been on a sufficiently extensive scale; the result has been a slight decadence instead of an improvement in the form and quality of the ordinary Irish country pig. The Irish bacon curers have apparently done their best to arouse their countrymen to the certain loss of the best English market unless the quality of the fat pigs is kept up; but the natural apathy of the people and the alleged desire of the Dublin officials to keep the trade in pure bred pigs in Irish hands appear to render null and void the loyal attempts of the curers to benefit the Irish farmers and themselves at one and the same time. How great the importation of bacon into this country is does not appear to have been realized. In an article written by one of our specialists, and published in a recent issue of the Journal of the Board of Agriculture, it was stated that 250,000 tons of bacon, valued at some twenty-five millions sterling, was annually imported. Surely our farmers and pig keepers are neglectful in allowing this enormous amount of money to be sent yearly out of the country principally for an article which we, with our fine breed of pigs and our wonderful climate, ought to produce at home. It does seem strange that you might almost count the English bacon factories on one hand; it is true that at one of our largest factories the finest bacon in the world is manufactured, but this only proves that we could produce a large proportion of the twenty-five million pounds' worth of bacon which Denmark, Canada, the States and other countries now send into this country.

The wild pig has long since disappeared from this country, nor is it largely consumed even in those foreign countries where it is still found. One of the chief uses to which it is put is the furnishing of sport. In India pig sticking is very popular, whilst in Germany, Austria and some other countries wild pig shooting and hunting is held in high esteem. Again, in Russia and Servia immense droves of pigs are kept in the forests, where they mate at their own pleasure and pick up their living unattended by man and even unnoticed, until the order goes forth for the slaughter of a certain number. The mere fact that none of the pigs have been operated upon, and their food having consisted

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KKAL OBSERVATIONS ON Till- COMMON HO<.

ml the seed of oaks, chestnuts, beech and oth. suttu lent to jji v good idea of the quality — or want of it — of the meat. In this country such stuff would tail to find a market. it were for the conversion into the le i.f our large towns, where the poverty is so great that anything in the form of meat is looked upon as a treat, to be enjoycii !ly.

Within a quarter of a century of the present t supj>osed to breed and feed tl for particular market. The h pig of 8 or 10 lb., which was looked upon as an ideal dish in the cold I only obtainable when the usual in the value of pigs came round, after the three or four of enhanced value of pigs. Then many litters of pigs of about three or four weeks old would be slau aid despatched to the large or centres of population, where they would realize some 6s. or far better than they would have done md of the breeding sows is followed for a few months, when the shortage of pigs becomes able, and every on < -lock of; to become the possessor of some of those w hi. h tin more thoughtful neighbour had continued to breed. The i. result 1 up. the weanlings become of thn of roasting su ea a thin-; < i haps three or four years. The s other factors, such as tl ! state of trade and •>f the masses, have a strong inf. ihe value of pork ai; not now as noticeable as r some years since, when the pigs required for conversion into bacon 1 to be unsuitable unless they turned the scale at 400 or 500 lb. at least. Now the fat pig of about 150 lb. dead by the bacon curer and the meat purvt \.IT pig is still in demand in the northern counties.

Unwholesome Pork. — There is little doubt that in the olden t • if the c<>; t times diseased. The pa; richina spiralis, was by unknown « ountry; whilst in Germany and count.v pork in the form of ham and sau\3 common, cases of this disease are still reported. The presence the human body is most painful, and gen ioking, or subill not kill th infected i; Fort u i.osis hav< •miry. Diseased ]««.vk. which in ol«! went

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under the name of " measly pork," has not of late years been found in this country. It was due to the presence of the parasite Cystersus cellulose?, found in the form of a small cyst about the size of a pea, imbedded in the tissue. Thorough cooking also renders this parasite innocuous. Under the insanitary conditions which fattened pigs had been kept in the olden days for a much longer period than is now considered necessary to fit them for the butcher, tuberculosis was not infrequently developed, but even this dread disease has never been proved to have been communicated to human beings by eating the flesh of animals suffering from tuberculosis. The medical profession are still warmly discussing the question of the similarity of this disease as it exists in human beings and in our domesticated animals. The present enlightened system of housing farm animals is fast reducing the number of cases of tuberculosis amongst our live stock. To Choose Pork. — In the good old times the quality of pork was most variable; the long so-called store period of the life of the pig, when it had to hunt for its living to such an extent that starvation diet was frequently its portion, to be followed by a period of stuffing on more or less rich food and without a possibility of exercise and a breath of sweet air; all these undesirable conditions injuriously affected the quality of the pork produced under such insanitary conditions. At the present time pig keepers are cognisant of the fact that pork made from young pigs which have been well fed from their birth realizes so much more on the market and pays them so much better, that a large proportion of the pigs kept in this country do not know what the old-fashioned store period in the life of a pig was like. There is little doubt that the manner in which pigs were kept in other days was the principal cause for the prejudice which exists against fresh pork as an article of diet. This prejudice is fast dying out now that sanitary arrangements are attended to, and the fatting pigs fed on common sense and humanitarian lines. This improvement is especially valuable to the lower classes, who find pork the most economical meat food, since it can be cooked in so many appetising ways, and every portion of the pig can be utilized for the food of man. It can also be produced at less cost than other meat, and consequently can be sold more cheaply. The percentage of loss in killing is only some 23 per cent, against nearly twice as much in the case of cattle. There is now far less necessity for care in the choice of the joint of pork> since well nigh the whole is of far better quality than a few years since. The fat of the best pork is white, the lean of a brownish hue, ingrained with fat; the rind should be thin and the bone fine but solid; these last are generally accepted as sure indications of good quality of meat. Ham. — The sources of supply of the finest hams are now far more numerous than a few years since. There is also a great change in the size, form and degree of fatness of the ham now desired. In place of the 20 to 40 Ib. hams, by no means uncommon in the past, the

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 627 highest priced ham is one of some 10 to 12 Ib. — anice, plump long ham, fine in the skin and bone, fairly fat, and cut off a carcass of pork furnish* d by a pig which has not lived more than seven months. This kind <>f ham is delicate in flavour, short in texture, easily di. and economical. At one time the cold fat ham was one of the standing breakfast dishes in the houses of the wealthy; now a hot ham is far more frequently a favourite course at dinner. Its reappearance in the dining or breakfast room is seldom, so that on economical grounds if on none other, a small ham is preferable to a large one. At the t time Irish hams realize the highest price in the London market, nadian and Danish hams are pressing the English and Irish hams A considerable number of Cumberland and Yorkshire •ill sent to the southern counties, but the purchasers of these are old-fashioned housekeepers or others having large families to pro;«»r. At one time hams \\cre cut in various fashions; now that the majority of the hams are i uivd with the side of bacon, the shape it of the ham varies but little.

To choose a Ham, select one fine in the bone, then run a skewer in •Middle of the ham. If it comes out clean and snull t is good, but it it sinelK *tn»ng and has fat adhering tin be cut, sc- white and n 1 with yellow. All meat first goes bad near the bone. A ham may n< •.d, vet not of the 1 ity; it may 1 salt or:1 ivourless, owing to improper curing. Conn a ham which has i • for some months, but the diltuulty in obtaining then:. now than formerly; this is due I tlv increased consum hams and the change in the systi-m of curing. In a few country <h ill possible to obt. j-ly of.1 \\ith an old-fashioned local curcr to take a fixed number at -ds. Of course the pur\< -\ '•> charge an extra price to cover risk of los ital. etc. Tin-re: the most common is to inclose them in brown paper and calico bags; others place them in a box covered with malt combs or broad bran. To Buy Bacon. — In choosing bacon, similar action can be taken, but as a rule the shoulder is the only part likely to b« enord consumption of so-called breakfast bacon, for i or that |x>rtion of the side <; from the shoulder about three-fourths of the depth of the side — is most in demand; consequently i: much the highest price per Ib. I now purchase the shoulder and cut it ham •es duty as a ham. It is not so fine i:

:ore bone, but,iinly an economical joint. The liR h a side of bacon is now c ut urn counties, \\\' • price of each joint of the • quality: —

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Weight about Price per Ib.

lb. s. d.

Fore end... 17 06 Middle.. 35 o n£ Gammon « 14 o 8£ Cut through side nearest the shoulder 12 i o£ Second cut.... 12 i o£ Third Cut.... 12 i o Forehock......10 05 Thick streaky... 9 on Thin streaky..... 4^ o io£ Flank. 3£ o siThree-quarter gammon... • 10 07^Corner of gammon... 4 i ojLong back. 911 Back and ribs..... 9 i o£ Collar....7 07^ Whole side.... 65 09^ The best and most humane way of killing pigs is to strike them with a heavy hammer between or just above the eyes; the pigs drop down senseless, then the butcher inserts his knife into the chest, piercing the heart of the pig, which very quickly bleeds to death. The hair is removed in two ways, either by so-called scalding, i.e. immersing the body of the pig into water of a certain temperature, or by placing a bundle of straw round the carcass, setting fire to the fuel and burning off the hair; this last plan is not much followed, save in Somersetshire and two or three adjacent counties. The followers of this practice assert that the flavour of the meat is improved. The scalding is certainly far the cleaner plan, and is in more general use. The best weight for a bacon curer's pig is about 220 lb. alive. The loss in dressing a fat pig varies with the age, size and degree of fatness of the pig; small porket pigs will dress from 70 to 75 per cent.; fat pigs weighing above some 220 lb. will lose about 23 to 25 per cent, of their weight in dressing, whilst very fat and old pigs will sometimes dress as much as 85 per cent, of their gross weight.

The system of bacon curing has completely changed of late, as has the cutting up of the pig for curing; now the pig is merely divided down the back, the head is cut off, the shoulder bone taken out, and the backbone and the major part of the lean meat is taken off. When the side of pork has brine or pickle forced into it by means of what are termed force pumps, the sides are then packed on each other, a layer of salt, etc. being used between each side. The sides are thus left for about a fortnight when the curing is finished, and are baled and sold on the large markets, whence country bacon merchants purchase, smoke and retail them to the provisioner. At most of the bacon

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Gl-NERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 629 factories a certain portion of the bacon is smoked for the retail trade, the quantity varying with the orders received. Sausages, pork pus, are also manufactured in some of the factories. Salt pork is commonly made in farm houses; somewhat small fat pigs are killed, the roasting parts are cut off and the remainder of the s cut up into pieces of about the size which will subsequently be required for cooking, and placed in an earthenware pot in brine had been already placed. Th< the brine, and pieces of it are taken out as required for use. It; ble to ! the leaner pieces first, or they may become too salt. The usual joints of small fresh pork are the leg, the loin, which in turn i 1 into fore — or, as it is sometii rop or rib — and hind; the hand, the spring, tl e belly, middle cut ancl the head. The respect r somewhat according to tin- season and • ut up in various ways; in the north of Kn.uland. where large fat hogs arc now mainly killed, the legs, shoulders, belly and the fat, after the off, are generally salted lightly and then l>the lor.are roasted whole, save when converted into ork-chops, which are considered to be very rich and suitable only when th- old.

The Names of the Several Joints are as follows: — FORE-QUARTER. Hi H:R.

3. Spring, or belly.

<>in. 6. 1 ht of the several joints of a good pork pig of 6 stone may be follows, viz: — The leg 8 Ib.

The loin and sp: n „ The hand 6,, The chine.... 7 „ Th. from 2 (03 ib.

FORE-QUARTER.

(i) Spare-rib. — Gem-rally roasted.

Hand.— Usually slightly salted and boiled, to < -r hot or (4) Fore-loin. — For roa* 1 1 1 ND-QUARTER.

-pring, or belly.— G« ilted and boiled.

oin. -The best roasting joint, but rather fat. Large chops EC it.

Leg. — The most ccono mt in this as in most mimals. It is less fat than the fore-quarter. Used also for

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Besides these joints, the following parts of the pig are sold for food: — (7) Head, also known in various parts of the country as " cheek," or " chopper." Weighs 5 Ib. to 6 Ib. and can often be bought very cheap. Is generally slightly salted and made into brawn. Can also be collared or boiled.

(8) Feet, or pettitoes. — Generally boiled and served hot or cold. Not unfrequently they are boned and stuffed. (9) Liver, sweetbread, and some of the inside fat are often sold together under the name of pig's fry.

(10) Lard. — Any part of the fat is melted down and sold in bladders, tubs, or by the pound, for pastry making, frying, etc. The lower the heat at which it is melted the smoother and less granulous it is. Occasionally it is said to be mixed with flour or starch. Much is imported annually from America. It has a lower melting point than beef or mutton fat and — partly for that reason — is less suitable for frying than other fats. It is better adapted for making pastry. TABLE OF THE RELATIVE VALUE OF VARIOUS JOINTS OF PORK SHOWING THE ACTUAL COST OF THE EATABLE PORTIONS, AFTER DEDUCTING BONE, SKIN AND WASTE, AND Loss BY WEIGHT, BY DIFFERENT MODES OF COOKING.

In the following tables the different parts have been carefully tested with the view of finding out which are really the most economical. It will be seen that the leg of pork wastes less than the loin, and that the best part of bacon is the cheapest when boiled. How usually before when loss perlb.

perlb.

Cost per Ib.

after cooking, bone oz.

s. d.

s d.

Bacon (back) „ (side)..

o 8 o 6 o 9 I 2j „ (cushion).

o 9 0 Il£ Ham it 15 „ (rashers) o 8 „ (knuckle)..

o 8 o Leg of pork.

o 9,, „...

4 o 4f o 9 Loin of pork (hind).

6J 0 IO „ (fore).

6| o 9 14 o o 9 Liver and fry s!

o 6 Pickled pork i U o 8 o Si

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE COMMON HOG 631 TABLE GIVING WEIGHT OF BONE, SKIN AND WASTE IN JOINTS OF POKK lit of ]< int when;.tof Loss of I t.y Wfi Bacon (back). „ (cushion) o 9 I O II.IIU... n is in si 3 io| (rashers). O 12 O 2 O 2 o 4 o 8 jx>rk 0 IS I., mi. >i pork 14 o l'i. kl.-.l pork O 2

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-;-:; I i PORK.

CHAPTER XXI 1074.— BOLOGNA SAUSAGES, IMITATION OF.

(Fr. — Saucisses a la Bologna.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of lean beef, 2 Ib. of lean pork, i Ib. of finelychopped suet, powdered thyme, mace, pepper, fat bacon cut into strips, ox skins, brine.

Method. — Simmer the meat very gently until tender, then chop it finely, or pass it 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine. Pound it and the suet until smooth, and season highly with pepper, and more sparingly with mace and thyme. Press the mixture into the prepared ox-skins, and in filling them intersperse strips of bacon. Tie the skins in 8 or 9-inch lengths, let them remain in brine for 9 or 10 days (see various recipes for salting), then hang them in the smoke from a peat fire. They may be kept for a considerable time in a cool dry place. Serve cut in thin slices.

Time. — To cure, 8 or 9 days. To smoke, at least 3 weeks. Average Cost, lod. to i id. per Ib.

1075.— CROQUETS OF PORK. (Fr.— Croquettes de Pore.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of finely-chopped cooked lean pork, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, £ of a teaspoonful of powdered sage, a pinch of marjoram, -| an oz. of butter, £ of an oz. of flour, |- of a pint of strong stock, salt and pepper, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat. Method. — Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion lightly, then stir in first the flour and afterwards the stock, and boil gently for 10 or 12 minutes, stirring briskly meanwhile. Add the meat, sage, marjoram, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, stir over the fire until well mixed, and turn on to a plate to cool. Form into cork-shaped

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pieces, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat (See " Croquettes of Beef," also " Notes on Frying," page' 443.) Time. — To fry, 4 to 5 minutes. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable in winter.

1076.— FILLET AND FILLETS OF PORK.

Pork is very rarely cut into parts to which the terms fillet or fillets could be applied, small legs being cooked whole, while large on cured for hams A fillet would consist of the fleshy part « (see " Fillet [of Mutton] to Dress "), which might be divided into small fillets, or, if preferred, small fillets could be cut from th t part of the neck, just as noisettes of mutton are cut. Any ions given for cooking pork chops and tenderloins would be equally applicable to these.

1077.— GALANTINE OF PORK. (Fr.— Galantine de Pore.) Ingredients. — A belly of young pork, eitl 1 or fresh ferably the former. ]>i< kl«-d;:>cr, stock, or wate? with the addition of 2 < arrot, \ of a turnip, a bouquet-gami (thyme. pai>lrv. bay-leaf), 10 peppercorns, g!

Method. -Lay the meat, skin side d Is on the table, season well with -.ml cover with thin slices of gherkin. Roll tightly as pf^>ible. tie with strom nd fasten securely in a roll 111 a strvpan obtaining sufficient hot stock, or hot • •tables, to just cover it. and cook g nn 2\ to 3 hours. Press i Id, then brush <>\er with gla/c, and serve garnished with parsl Time. — To cook, from 3$ to 4 hours. Average Cost, 8d. per Ib. Seasonable in the win:

1078. GRISKIN OR SPINE OF PORK.

Ingredients. ! apple sauce.

Method. process pccul pork, which nerd | to !><• th<T thr inr.it iii a '. baste well, and bake gently until th / cooked, keeping well e the p;: the sediment in the tin (see pic sauce. If liked, a h be sprink:

Time Average Cost, od. to icxi. p

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1079.— LITTLE RAISED PORK PIES. (Fr— Petits Pates de Pore.) Ingredients. — 2 Ib. of lean pork, i Ib. of household flour, 8 ozs. of lard, -n- a teaspoonful of powdered sage, cayenne, pepper and salt, £ a pint of water, i small onion.

Method. — Prepare the stock, meat and paste as directed in the recipe for " Pork Pie." Divide the paste into small pieces, raise in a round or oval form, and fill with meat. Sprinkle lightly with sage, moisten with stock, and put on the covers. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about i hour, then fill up with stock, and serve either hot or cold. Time. — To bake, about i^ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d. 1080.— LOIN OF PORK, BAKED. (Fr.— Longe de Pore.) Ingredisnts. — 3 or 4 Ib. loin of pork, 18 potatoes, 8 apples, 6 onions, all peeled and quartered, salad oil, gravy (see " Gravies "). Method. — Score the skin in narrow lines, and brush it over with salad oil. Bake in a moderately hot oven for 40 minutes, then put the potatoes, apples and onions into the tin containing the meat, and continue to cook gently from i^ to i£ hours longer. When ready, arrange the vegetables and apples on a hot dish, place the meat in the centre, and serve the gravy separately.

Time. — From 2 to 2.\ hours. Average Cost, 9d. to lod. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable during the winter months. 1081.— PIG'S CHEEK.

Ingredients. — A pig's cheek, brown breadcrumbs.

Method. — If the cheek has been cured and dried, soak it for 5 or 6 hours; if freshly pickled, simply wash it in 2 or 3 waters. Cover with warm water, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for 2,\ hours. Strip off the skin, cover rather thickly with l;ghtly-browned breadcrumbs, and bake in the oven for \ an hour. Serve either hot or cold. Time. — To cook, 3 hours. Average Cost, 8d. per Ib. Seasonable in 1082.— PIG'S CHEEK, TO PICKLE.

Ingredients. — 2 pig's cheeks. For the pickle: 4 ozs. of common salt 4 ozs. of moist sugar, i oz. of saltpetre, \ an oz. of ground pepper. Method. — Remove the brains and snout, and chop off the upper bone, to make the cheeks a good shape. Wash well, sprinkle thickly with salt, let them lie for 24 hours, then wash and drain well. Mix the above ingredients together, rub them well into the cheeks, and turn

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and rub them daily for 4 weeks. Hang in a dry cool place until reTime. — 29 days. Average Cost,;d. to 8d. per Ib. 1083.— PIG'S EARS. (Fr.— Oreilles de Pore.) Ingredients. — 4 pig's curs, 4 tablespoonfuls oi:ablcspoonfuls of finely-chopped veal, j tablespoonfuls of fmcU chopped -poonful of finely-chopped parsley, J a teaspoonful of essence cit anchovy, i egi:. 1 pepper, | a pint <>t brown sauce (see uces "), ^ of a pint of stock, frying- 1.

Method. — Soak the ears for 5 or 6 hours, then cover with stock or mcr gently for i\ hours. Mix the breadcrumbs, veal, nchovy -essence, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper •nd slightly moisten with beaten egg. Raise tlu-.-',. the upper side ot tin- HU 'C forcemeat liL-htly in, and seen; opening. 1 iv in hot fat until lightly browned, then drain off t! add the st<x k. i o\ < r i lotdy, ami on-k eithn on the stove or in th« in hour. Drain well, ti -auce poured o\ n thmi. Time. — About 2 h«>ur>. Average Cost, unt-t tain. Sulllcient Seasonable in \MI 1084.— PIG'S EARS WITH TARTARE SAUCE.

(Fr. — Oreilles de Cochon, Sauce Tartare.) Ingredients. I'ig's ears pickled. 213), T.

saure s»r " Sauces "), butter or trying-lat, salad-oil, finely-chopped shallot and parsley, salt and pepper.

Method, lioil tiie ears until: t them cool, then sprinkle lightly \\ith shallot and pai with pepper.

hem 2 or 3 tablespoonluN liour. turning 2 or 3 times, and basting frequently. 1;1. dip them into • ! tr\ in lioi butter or fat uir ^nd brown. par.itcly.

Time. To irv. j or 5 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain, the ears bring seldom sold separately.

1085.- PIG'S FEET AND EARS, FRICASSEED.

(Fr. — Fricassee de Pieds de Pore.) Ingredients. pig's ears, a slice of onion, a small::md. \\hite stock or milk. For the same 2 ->/s. oi butter, il o/s. of flour, I of a pint »»i white stoil, and; Method. \Va-h t MI \\ith white stock or milk. !. and salt and pepper to taste.

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Simmer until tender, then cut the feet into neat pieces, and the ears into strips. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook slowly for 5 or 6 minutes, then add the stock or liquor in which the feet and ears were cooked. Boil up, season to taste, simmer gently for 10 minutes, then put in the prepared feet and ears, and when thoroughly hot, serve.

Time. — About 2| hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for 3 or 4 1086.— PIG'S FEET AND EARS IN JELLY.

(Fr. — Pieds de Pore en Aspic.) Ingredients. — 4 pig's feet, 2 pig's ears, i dessertspoonful of finelychopped parsley, £ a dessertspoonful of finely-chopped fresh sage, Method. — Thoroughly cleanse the feet and ears, cover them with cold water, and simmer gently until the bones can be easily withdrawn. Cut the meat into dice, replace it in the liquor, add the parsley, sage, and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer gently for 15 minutes, then turn into a mould or basin, and put aside until cold. Time. — About 3 hours. Average Cost, uncertain. Sufficient for I medium-sized mould. Seasonable in winter.

1087.— PIG'S FRY.

Ingredients. — A pig's fry, which consists of the heart, lights, liver and sweetbread, frying-fat, flour, salt and pepper, sage. Method. — Wash the fry well, cover it with water, add a little salt, and cook gently for \ an hour. Drain and dry well, cut into thin slices, and coat them lightly with flour seasoned with salt, pepper and a little sage. Fry in hot fat until nicely browned, then remove and keep hot. Sprinkle a little flour on the bottom of the frying-pan, let it brown, then pour in a little boiling water, and add seasoning to taste. Boil up, strain, and serve round the fry, or separately. Time. — From i to i£ hours. Average Cost, 6d. to /d. per Ib. ATow i Ib. for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable in winter.

1088.— PIG'S FRY, BAKED WITH HERBS.

Ingredients. — A pig's fry, potatoes, peeled and sliced, 2 or 3 onions sliced, powdered sage, salt and pepper, flour.

Method. — Wash and dry the fry, and cut it into thin slices. Place a layer at the bottom of a greased piedish, add a sprinkling of sage, salt and pepper, dredge liberally with flour, and cover first with slices of onion, and afterwards with potato. Repeat until all the materials are used, letting potatoes form the last layer. Three-quarters fill the dish with boiling water, cover with a greased paper, and bake gently

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from 2^ to 2\ hours. About £ an hour bci rig remove the paper, to allow the potatoes to brown.

Time. — To bake, from 2^- to 2| hours. Average Cost, fry, from 6d. to /d. per Ib. Allow i Ib. of fry and 2 Ib. of potatoes for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable in winter.

1089.— PIG'S HEAD, BOILED. (Fr.— Tete de Pore bouillie.) Ingredients. — A pig's head, i Ib. of common salt, i oz. of saltpetre, pudding (see No. 1098.) Method. — Scald and da 1 thoroughly, removing the hair. -nout and bruins. Soak in strong salt and water for ^4 1 changing the water 2 or 3 t< u drain and dry well. Mix the salt and saltpetre together, rub it well into every part of the head, and repeat this process daily for 5 or 6 days. Drain the head from the brine, place it in a stewpan containing sufficient warm water to co\ bring to the boil, and skim well. Simmer gently for 3^ hours, then with the pease pudding.

Time. — To cook, about 3$ hours. Average Cost,;d. to 8d. per Ib. Sufficient- for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in wi 1090.— PIG'S HEAD, COLLARED. (Fr.— Tete dePorc.) Ingredient^ 's head, i Ib. of common salt, i oz. of saltpetre, cayenne, salt and pep:

Method.— Prepare the head as directed in the preceding P boil it gently for 2 hours, then drain from the liquor and remove tinbones, flatten the head as much as possible, sprinkle it liberally with pepper and cayenne, and roll up: I'ut the roll into a doth, and bind securely. Replace it in the stewpan, boil gently for 2 hours longer, press until cold, and use as required.

Time.- Al>« >ut 4 hours. Average Cost, jd. to 8d. per Ib. Seasonable in 1091.— PIG'S KIDNEYS, BROILED. (Fr.— Rognons de Pore grilles.) Ingredients. Pig's kidneys, salt and pepper, powdered sage, saladoil. M Imtter, or parsley but:

Method.— Split tin- lengthwise, r '.<> skin, and p r through them to keep them flat Brush over with salad oil. sprin! and pepper, and broil over a dear fire, cooking it side first. Place a small pat of mattre cChdtel butter in the centre of each half, and serve a possible.

Time.— 5 to 7 minutes, accord r.\ Average Cost, 4d. to 6d.

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1092.— PIG'S KIDNEYS, FRIED. (Fr.— Rognons de Pore Frits.) Ingredients. — 2 pig's kidneys, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 shallots or i small onion finely -chopped, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, flour, salt and pepper, i tablespoonful of mushroom ketchup. Method. — Remove the skins, and cut the kidneys across into rather thin slices. Heat the butter in a saute-pan, fry the shallots until lightly browned, then put in the kidney, and add the parsley and a good seasoning of salt and pepper. Toss over the fire for 3 or 4 minutes, then turn on to a hot dish. Sprinkle a little flour on the bottom of the pan, let it brown, then add a little boiling stock or water and seasoning to taste. Boil up, pour over or round the kidney, and serve. Time. — To fry, 3 or 4 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. to 6d. each. 1093.— PIG'S PETTITOES, FRIED. (Fr.— Pieds de Pore frits.) Ingredients. — 4 or 8 sucking pigs' feet, frying-batter (see No. 213), stock, frying-fat, parsley.

Method. — Wash the pettitoes thoroughly, then cover them with stock or water, bring to the boil, and simmer gently for about \ an hour. Split them open, dip them into the batter, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain, and serve garnished with crisply-fried parsley. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom sold 1094.— PIG'S PETTITOES, STEWED. (Fr.— Pieds de Pore en ragout.) Ingredients. — 8 sucking-pigs' feet, the heart and liver of the pig, i oz. of butter, i tablespoonful of flour, i tablespoonful of cream, 6 peppercorns, a small blade of mace, salt and pepper, stock. Method. — Wash the liver, heart and pettitoes, cover with stock, add the peppercorns and mace, and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Take out the heart and liver and chop them finely, the pettitoes being meanwhile allowed to cook slowly until quite tender. Heat the butter in a stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook gently for 5 minutes, then strain and add -\ a pint of stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste, put in the mince and pettitoes, make thoroughly hot, and stir in the cream. Serve the mince on a hot dish with the feet halved and laid on the top of it.

Time. — About 45 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom sold separately. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. Seasonable in winter.

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1095.— PIG'S TONGUES. (Fr.— Langues de Pore.) Ingredients. — 8 or 9 pigs' tongues. For the pickle: 4 ozs. of common salt, 2 ozs. of bay salt, i oz. of moist sugar, £ an oz. of salt] >• Method. — Trim the roots of the tongues, rub them well with -alt. and let them lie for 24 hours. Mix the above ingredients t<> rub the mixture \vcll into the tongues, and repeat this process daily for 9 or 10 days, \Yhen ready, the tonu II washed, and cooked according to directions given for dressing sheep's ton Time. — To pickle, 9 or 10 days. Average Cost, uncertain, bt inseldom sold separately.

1096. —PORK, BAKED. (Fr.— Pore roti au Four.) Ingredients. — Leg or loin of pork, 2 onions, 2 carrots, i small turnip, 2 strips ot doz. button onions, i teaspoontul of mixed herbs, of butter, 2 or 3 ozs. of dripping, \ a pint of gravy, apple sauce and pcpi Method. S<:ore the pork in narrow lines. Slice all the \ • the button onions, pla< e tlp-m in a baking-tin, sprinkle with s.ilt and prppi-r. and add the herb-* and dripping. Lay the m« at <>n tintop, and cook in a mo' itlv »« n hour IH: til onion*.

and fry them brown in hot butter. Serve the nu.<; <>n a In: garnish with the onions, and send the gravy to table in a sauce-boat. ssary, t! <>m the sediment in the meat tin.

Time. Allow 20 min Ib. Average Cost, oxl. to lod. j)er Ib. Seasonable in the winter.

1097.— PORK AND BEANS.

(Fr. — Pore Sale aux Haricots blanc.) Ingredients. A should-:\« pork p nion. i carrot, ± of a turnip, m peppercorns, Wind- ley sauce (see No. 206.) Method. 1'ul th-- pork in1 amnm • tables and peppercorns, and boil.^enth t j hours. Half an hour before the pork will ntlv from 25 to 30 minutes, then drain well, and pom Time. I > 2\ hours, accon Average Cost, lod.

per Ib. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable in th< 1098. PORK, BOILED, AND PEASE PUDDING.

Ingredients. I eg or other joint of salted or pickled pork, i good M, i carrot, £ a turni]

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12 peppercorns. For the pudding: i quart of split peas, i oz. of butter, 2 yolks of eggs, salt and pepper.

Method. — Soak the peas for 12 hours. Place the pork in a boiling pot, cover it with warm water, unless very salt, in which case use cold water (see "Notes on Boiling Meat," p. 429). Bring to the boil, skim well, boil for 10 minutes, add the onion, carrot, turnip and celery, all cut into thick slices, put in the peppercorns, and simmer gently until done. Boil the parsnips and cabbage separately; divide the former lengthwise into 4 pieces, and press the latter well, season it with pepper, and cut it into small squares. Serve the pork in a hot dish, garnished with the parsnips and cabbage. The liquor in which pork is cooked may be converted into good peasoup.

There are two methods of making the pease pudding. By the first method, the peas are drained from the water in which they were soaked, tied in a cloth, and cooked for about i£ hours in the boiling-pot, with the pork. They are then rubbed through a fine sieve, mixed with the butter and yolks of eggs, seasoned with salt and pepper, replaced in the cloth, and boiled with the pork for about 40 minutes longer. The second method is probably the better one. After being drained from the water in which they were soaked, the peas are placed, with a dessertspoonful of salt, in a stewpan, which they about half fill, and covered with cold water, which must be replaced as it boils away. Cook the peas gently for about 2 hours, or till they are quite soft, then rub them through a fine sieve, add the butter, yolks of eggs, and season to taste. Press the puree into a well-buttered mould or basin, and either steam or bake for about 40 minutes.

Time. — Allow 25 minutes to each Ib. of pork. Average Cost, the pork 9d. per Ib., the pudding pd.

1099.— PORK, LEG OF, ROASTED. (Fr.— Gigot de Pore roti.) Ingredients. — A leg of pork, onion forcemeat, No. 404, salad-oil \ a pint of gravy, dripping for basting, apple sauce (see No 316). Method. — Remove the bones down to the knuckle bone, break them into smaller pieces, and simmer them for gravy. Make the forcemeat as directed, press it lightly inside the leg, and secure the opening. Score the skin in narrow strips, brush over with salad-oil, and either roast it before a clear fire, or bake it in a moderate oven (see " Notes on Roasting," p. 428). Serve the gravy and apple sauce in sauce-boats. Time. — Allow 25 minutes to each Ib. of meat. Average Cost, 9d. i loo.— PORK CHEESE.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast pork, i dessertspoonful of finely-

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chopped parsley, £ of a teaspoonful of powdered sage, ^ of a tca:ulof mix. \ a teaspoonful - on-rind, j- of a •onful of j; rated nutmeg, salt and pepper, J a pint of gravy or ntly strong to form a jelly when cold.

Method. — Cut the meat into dice, using more or less of the fat, according to taste. Add to it the parsley, sage, herbs, lemon-rind, nutmeg, and a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper, and mix well to. 11 up with gravy, and bake about i| hours in a moderate oven. When cold, turn out of the mould and garnish Time. — About i \ hours. Average Cost, is. jJ. in addition to the stock. ENGLISH MODE ot -i> INDIA* Pic.-Sric KING.— Wild boar hunting u a sport of great v. affording the highest interest and < * 1 he kings of Assyria are depicted on the the Palace of Nineveh engaged in this royal pastime, the Greeks were passioniched to this sport, and although the Romans do not appear to have been addicted to hunting.,r nghts formed part of their gladiatorial shows in the amphitheatre. In l and Germany, from early times, the boar hunt was a favourite pastime of r nobility. The hunter was armed only with a boar-spear, about four feet in length, the ash ^ tected with plates of steel, and terminating in a long narrow, and very sharp blade, and a i hanc-r. Thus equipped the hunter encountered his foe face to face, as the boar, v pressed bead, and flaming eyes, charged the!.« tusks. But, expert as the ! )>oar would sometimes siexe the spear in his formidiNe teeth and crush it like; or, coming full tilt with his sharp tusks time to draw and ui and doubling on his opponent, attack him in the rear. Prom his speed/great weight, _ the wild boar it always a dangerous antagonist, and great courage, coolness and., requisite on the part of the hunter. Boar hunting has been for some centuries obsolete in Britain. on In the extensive forests of Germany and Austria. The Continental sportyman ri! ^ in a cavalcade with music and boar-dogs. The boar-dog is a sraJg^^^H trained to attack the boar, h^f""*"! him until be u wearied out. when toe huntsman •i the boar with hh lance In India, eipedillv In Kencal. the sport is engaged otncers and other European sportsmen, and is of a very exciting character, as the boar s the cane-brakes and jungle, is a formidable foe. The hunters mounted on small. lorses. and armed only with long lances, ride at early daybreak to the skirts of the jungle,' ing sent in their attendants to beat the cover, wait until their tusked antagonist comes crash.ediatety given, and he b overtaken and t.

The boar, however, frequently turns to bay, with the result that the hunters and their h::.. '•• v. s;.:• !

iioi.— PORK CUTLETS OR CHOPS. (/<>.-C6telettes de Pore.) Ingredients. — 6 or; ozs. of buticr. i 1 - of liquid car • t any !><• trimmings, anil the onion into a.it the butter in a.11, and fry o cook tl In the m< h imrutlcts in a close

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on a potato border, pour the sauce (which must be thick enough to coat the cutlets) over them, and serve the tomato or apple sauce Time. — To fry the chops, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

1 102.— PORK CUTLETS, GRILLED. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Pore grillees aux Cornichons.) Ingredients. — 7 or 8 lean cutlets cut from the best end of the neck, 2\ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, \ a pint of gravy or stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped gherkins, i tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and Method. — Trim off nearly all the fat, and make the cutlets a good uniform shape. Season both sides of them with salt and pepper, dip them in warm butter, coat carefully with breadcrumbs, and grill over a clear fire for 20 minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times. Pour the remainder of the butter into a small stewpan, add the flour, stir over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, put in the gravy and vinegar, boil up, season to taste, and add the gherkins. Arrange the cutlets in a close circle on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, and serve.

Time. — 20 minutes, to grill the cutlets. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. 1103.— PORK CUTLETS WITH ROBERT SAUCE.

(Fr.— Cotelettes de Pore a la Robert.) Ingredients. — 8 or 9 cutlets from the best end of the neck, -£ a pint of Robert sauce (see No. 272). For the marinade or brine: 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, i teaspoonful of vinegar, £ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, salt and pepper.

Method. — Trim the cutlets neatly, leaving about £ an inch of fat round each one. Place them on a dish, pour over the marinade, and let them remain in it for i hour, turning them frequently. Drain well, and broil over a clear fire for about 20 minutes. Or, if preferred, fry the cutlets in a little hot butter, in a saute-pan. Arrange them in a close circle on a hot dish, pour the Robert sauce round, and serve. Time. — To cook, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Suffi1104.— PORK CUTLETS WITH SOUBISE SAUCE.

(Fr.— Cotelettes de Pore a la Soubise.) Ingredients. — 8 or 9 cutlets from the best end of the neck, ^ a pint of thick Soubise sauce, \ of a pint of demi-glace sauce (see No. 242), marinade as in preceding recipe, salt and pepper. Method. — Prepare and marinade the cutlets as directed in the pre-

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ceding recipe, and either grill them from 15 to 18 minutes over a clear fire, or fry them for the same length of time in hot butter, in a sauteor frying-pan. Dish them in a circle, serve the Soubise sauce in the centre, and pour the demi-glace sauce round the base of the dish. Time. — To fry or grill, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Su flic lent for 6 or 7 persons.

1 105. -PORK CUTLETS, OR CHOPS. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Pore grillees aux Tomates.) Ingredients. — 2\ Ib. of loin or neck of pork, \ a pint of tomato sauce >o. 281), salad-oil or oiled butter, salt and pepper. Method. — Remove the greater part of the fat, divide the meat into cutlets, and trim them into a good shape. Brush over with salad-oil or butter, sprinkle both sides with salt and pepper, and grill the cutlets over a clear fire for about 15 minutes, turning them 3 or 4 times. Ariu.it ly on a hot dish, pour the hot sauce round, and S(: Time. — To grill the cutlets, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, lod. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

H06.-PORK CUTLETS, OR CHOPS. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Pore Panees.) Ingredients.— jUb. of loin or neck of pork, ijozs. of butter, i teaspoonful of powdered sage, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, tomato sauce No jSi or piquantc sauce 265.

Method. Remove nearly all the fat from the cutlets, and trim them idd to it the sage and a liberal s« -asmiin^ i the mixture, and coat carefully with breadcrumbs. He.it the butter in a S and fry the i gently for about 20 minutes, turning them fn-.jut-mly. Arrange on a M (1 potato, pour the sauce round, and ser Time.— About 20 minutes to cook the cutlets. Average Cost, icxl. ]> r 11). Sufficient for 6 or 7 pers< 1107. PORK CUTLETS, HASH OF. (/<>.- Hachisde Pore).

Ingredients. The P m -!d loin of pork; to 6 or 7 cm let* allow i medium ->i/ed Spanish onion coarsely-chopped, I oz. of butter, poonful < r, i teaspoonful of in.idf mustard,: »f good gravy, salt and pepper. Method. Ihvide the loin in ! trim away the greater p.irt of tli-- t.it. M« 1;; m, put in the rutlels fry them iur. browned, th•«» tin- butler iu the pin. fry until lh<v:ood brown colour, sprink!.M>n with salt

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and pepper, and cook for a few minutes longer to lightly brown the flour. Now add the stock, vinegar, and mustard, boil up and pour the mixture over the cutlets, which must be previously arranged in a close circle on a hot dish.

Time. — About 5 minutes, to fry the cutlets. Average Cost, is. 6d. 1108.— PORK, HASHED. (Fr.— Ragout de Pore.) Ingredients.— i Ib. of either cold roast or boiled pork, i^ ozs. of butter, i dessertspoonful of Worcester sauce, i dessertspoonful of ketchup, i small teaspoonful of made mustard, £ a teaspoonful of lemon- juice, cayenne, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the meat into small slices, and sprinkle them with salt and a very little cayenne. Put the butter, Worcester sauce, ketchup, lemon-juice and mustard into a stewpan, and, when quite hot, add the slices of meat, and allow them to remain for 15 or 20 minutes, to become thoroughly impregnated with the flavour of the sauce. Shake the stewpan, or stir the contents occasionally, but on no account allow the sauce Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 1109.— PORK, HASHED. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast pork, \ a pint of gravy or stock, i oz. of butter, i dessertspoonful of flour, i tablespoonful of vinegar, % of a saltspoonful of salt, 2 cloves, salt and pepper, 2 onions. Method. — Cut the meat into small slices, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and cut the onions into thin slices. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, sprinkle in the flour, stir and cook these over the fire for about 5 minutes, then add the stock, vinegar, cloves, mace, and necessary seasoning, and stir until boiling. Simmer for 10 minutes to thoroughly cook the flour, then draw the stewpan to the side of the stove, put in the slices of meat, cover closely, and let them remain for about \ an hour. Shake the stewpan occasionally or stir the contents, which must be kept hot but not allowed to boil. Arrange the slices of meat neatly on a hot dish, and strain the sauce over them. The dish may be garnished with sippets of toast, or, if preferred, the hash may be served with a border of mashed Time. — Altogether, about 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 5d. Suffi1 1 io.— PORK KIDNEY, FRITTERS OF. (Fr.— Fritots de Rognons.) Ingredients. — 2 pig's kidneys, pig's caul, £ of a pint of brown sauce,.

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2 yolks of eggs, i finely-chopped shallot, £ a teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, i oz. of butter, frying-fat. For the batter: 2 ozs. of flour, \ a gill of tepid water, i tablcspoonful of salad-oil or warm butter, the white of i egg, i saltspoonful of salt. Method. — Remove the skins and cores, and cut the kidneys into dice. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the shallot slightly, add the parsley and kidneys, cook gently for 5 minutes, then drain away the butter, and, if preferred, use it instead of salad-oil for the batter. Make the brown sauce as directed, No. 233, cool slightly, then pour it on to the yolks of eggs, stirring all the time. Have this sauce ready to add to the kidneys, pour it over them, season to taste, stir by the side of the fire unt'l the yolks thicken, then turn on to a plate to cool. Meanwhile, wash the caul in salt and water, dry well, and cut into 3-inch sq Make a smooth batter of the flour, water, salt, and salad-oil or butter, then add the white of c whipped. When the mixture is cold divide it into small portions, enclose them in the pieces of caul, dip them into the batter, and fry until brown in hot fat. Time. — \\ hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. pd. Sufficient for r other methods of cooking kidney, sec recipes for veal, beef and ii 1 1. —PORK, LOIN OF, GERMAN STYLE.

(Fr. — Longe de Pore a rAllemande.) Ingredients.— A loin of pork, * a pint of malt vinegar, i large Spanish onion sliced, 10 fresh sage to juniper berries, 24 peppercorns, cloves, i taMcspoonfui of salt, with the addition of a little thyme, isil, or other herbs preferred.

Method. — Reniovr and any superfluous fat. and place the inc.it in rthcnwarc dish. Add all the ingredients enumerated • meat remain in the man:

and bating it daily. When re.idy. put both meat and marinade into ic bakm:;-«lisli..uM \ a pint of boiling; id cook •tly in th< hours, basting frequently. Strain the i over the.uiinder tcly.

Time. — To co- Average Cost, nxl. per lb.

Sufficient t«>r c> (>r. Seasonable in the winter. 1 1 12.— PORK, LOIN OF, STUFFED. (Fr.— Longe de Pore Farcie.) Ingredient.;i of pork. oni<m stuffing. No. 404, gravy (see Method. S> <>!•• the ^kin in nai:

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After putting in the stuffing secure the opening, wrap the loin in a greased paper, and roast before a clear fire, or in a moderately hot oven for about 2 hours. Baste frequently, and £ an hour before serving remove the paper to allow the crackling to brown. Serve the gravy and apple sauce separately.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 9d. to lod. per Ib. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable in the winter.

Note. — The sage and onion stuffing may be baked and served separately or altogether omitted.

1113.— PORK, LOIN OF, SAVOURY. (Fr.— Longe de Pore, Savoureux.) Ingredients. — 3 or 4 Ib. of loin of pork, i tablespoonful of finelychopped onion, £ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, \ a teaspoonful of salt, i saltspoonful of dry mustard, £ a saltspoonful of pepper. Apple sauce, brown gravy.

Method. — Score the pork in narrow lines, mix the onion, sage, salt, mustard and pepper together, and rub the mixture well into the meat. Wrap the joint in well-greased paper, and bake in front of a clear fire for about 2 hours, basting frequently. Half an hour before serving remove the paper, in order that the crackling may become crisp and brown. Serve the apple sauce and gravy separately. Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, pd. to icd. per Ib. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons. Seasonable in the winter.

1114.— PORK, MINCED.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast pork, 2 onions finely-chopped, 2 apples coarsely-chopped, 2 ozs. of butter, i dessertspoonful of flour, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, \ of a pint of stock, dry mustard, salt and Method. — Cut the meat into very small dice, and, unless gravy or good stock is at hand, boil the bones and trimmings for at least i hour, then strain and boil rapidly until reduced to f of a pint. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onion until lightly browned, then add the apple, and fry until tender, but not broken. Sprinkle in the flour ahd a good pinch of mustard, stir and cook gently for 3 or 4 minutes, then add the stock, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, boil gently for 5 minutes, then put in the meat, add the lemon-juice, and allow the stewpan to stand for about £ an hour where the contents will remain Just below simmering point. Serve in a border of rice, or mashed potato, or garnished with sippets of toasted bread.

Time. — To re-heat the meat, about £ an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is, 3d, Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable in winter.

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1115.— PORK MOULD.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of cold roast pork, 2 tablcspoonfuls of mashed potato, i teaspoonful of parboiled and finely-chopped onion, £ of a pint of sour cream or milk (about), salt and pepper, brown breadcrumbs, \ a pint of gravy.

Method.— Remove the skin and greater part of the fat from the meat, chop it finely, and add to it the onion. Season highly with salt and pepper, and work in sufficient sour cream or milk to bind the mixture together. Coat a well-buttered mould or pic-dish thickly with brown breadcrumbs, put in the mixture, and bake for about J of an hour in a moderate oven. The mixture may also be formed into small cakes, coated with egg and breadcrumbs, and fried. The gravy may be made from the bones and trimmings of the meat, and should bo served separately.

Time.— To cook, about $ of an hour. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. 1 1 16.— PORK PIE.

Ingredients. — \\ Ib. of lean pork, i Ib. of household flour, 6 ozs. of lard, i small onion, \ of a pint of water, cayenne, pepper and salt. Method. -Cut the moat into dice, and season it well with salt and the bones in a stewpan, add tin- onion, salt and p. covrr with cold water, and simmer for at least 2 hours to extract the •vlatine, in order that the gravy, when cold, may be a linn jelly. 1'ut tin- tloar i;e basin, and add to it a good pinch of tlu' lard and water together for 5 minutes, then add it to the Hour, stirring it thoroughly until cool enough to be kne.-d> d. ! until smooth, cover with a cloth, and let the b..1 near t for al hour. Throughout the whole process the paste must p| warm, otherwise n:

overheating must also be avoided, tor when tl. is too soft it is unable to support its o\sn \\ei-ht. At the en.l ot this tun. about \ for t r into around, or o\ al form, as may br { If an ii.

liuils.my difficulty in raising the pie by hand alone. i in the centre of the paste, and the paste moul< the lower part of the pic has bc<: to the necessary thinn- jiunt work may be made mm by putting in some of the meat, and p: firmly down to support r part of the !i J <>r; v. the n n added aft • i the p:-- is Kik--d and still hot. Three or four folds of gi< id be pin:.

•.min:; loo brown. Th- hours in a moderate o\ «'ii, am ! ed by brushing

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it over with yolk of egg when about £• baked. Slices of hard boiled egg are often added with the meat.

Time. — To bake, about 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. Sd.

Sufficient for i medium-sized pie.

1117.— POTTED HAM.

Ingredients. — To 2 Ib. of lean ham allow \ a Ib. of fat, \ of a teaspoonful of ground mace, £ of a teaspoonful of nutmeg, £ of a teaspoonful of pepper, | of a teaspoonful of cayenne, clarified butter.

Method. — Pass the ham 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, or chop it finely, pound it well in a mortar with the seasoning, and rub it through a fine sieve. Put it into a buttered pie-dish, cover with a buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven for about £ of an hour. When done, press into small pots, and as soon as it is quite cold cover with clarified butter.

Time. — To bake, about £ of an hour. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 9d. IMPORTANCE OF THE BOAR'S HEAD. — In ancient times the boar's head formed the most important dish, and on Christmas Day was invariably the first placed upon the table, its entrance into the hall being preceded by a body of servitors, a flourish of trumpets, and other marks of distinction. The dish itself was borne by the individual next in rank to the lord of the feast. The custom of serving a boar's head on a silver platter on Christmas Day is still observed at some colleges and Inns of Court. So highly was the grizzly boar's head regarded in the Middle Ages that it passed into the cognizance of some of the noblest families in the realm; thus it was not only the crest of the Nevilles and Warwicks with their collateral houses, but it was the cognizance of Richard III. It was also a favourite sign for taverns. The Boar's Head which formerly stood in Eastcheap will be familiar to every reader of Shakespeare as the resort of the Prince of Wales, Poins, and his companions, and the residence of Falstaff, and his knaves Bardolph, Pistol and Nym. Its sign of the boar's head was carved in stone over the entrance; a smaller one, fashioned in wood, was placed on each side of the doorway.

Many traditions and deeds of savage vengeance are recorded in connexion with this grim trophy of the chase in all parts of Europe.

1 1 18.— SAUSAGES, TO BOIL.

Ingredients. — Sausages.

Method. — Prick the sausages with a fork, throw them into boiling water, and cook gently for 15 minutes. Serve on buttered toast or mashed potato. Or, let them cool slightly, remove the skins, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot butter or fat until crisp and Time. — To boil, 15 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to lod. per Ib.

1119.— SAUSAGES, TO FRY.

Ingredients. — Sausages, frying-fat.

Method. — Prick the sausages well with a fork, as this prevents the skins breaking. Put the sausages into a frying-pan containing a little hot fat, and fry gently, turning 2 or 3 times, so as to brown them equally. Serve on mashed potato or toasted bread.

Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 8d. to lod. per Ib.

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1 120.— SAVOURY LIVER.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of pig's liver, i Ib. of potatoes, £ a Ib. of onions, | a teaspoonful of powdered sage, i teaspoonful of salt, | of a teaspoonful of pepper, \ a pint of water, apple sance (see No. 3 i Method. — Wash and dry the liver, cut it into rather thick slices, cut the onions into small dice, and slice the potatoes. Place a layer of potato at the bottom of a greased pie-dish, cover with slices of liver, add a good sprinkling of onion, and season well with salt and p..t until all the materials are used, letting potato form the top Pour in the water, cover with a greased paper, and bake slowly for 2 hours. Towards the end, remove the paper to allow the potatoes to brown. Serve with apple sauce.

Time.— About 2 hours. Average Cost, rod. to is., exclusive of the apple. Sufficient lor 5 or 6 pcrs«> 1 121. —SAVOURY PUDDING.

Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of fine oatmeal, £ a Ib. of stale bread, | a Ib. of. 2 large onions, i teaspooafu ! of a teas; ful of; »onful of powdered sage, £ of a teaspoonful of ! mixed herbs, 2 Cggs.

Method.— Soak the r for $ an hour, then drain »rbcd liquid, and beat out the lumps with a fork. Boil the i in salt and water for J an hour, then chop them coarsely. Mix ulding the beaten eggs i much dripping in a Yorkshire pudding tin as will form a put in the mixtu: h a knife, and bake for about i hour in a done, cut into squares, and serve with good >rk, duck or gooslire, tliis pudding. hat takes its from the county, is, and before the r.

Time. — 1 •.•>out i hour. Average Cost, iod., for this quantity. Sufficient for S persons.

1122.— SAVOURY TENDERLOIN OF PORK.

Ingredients.- 6 pork chops, prcf otn the lean part under the shoulder, known (according to locality) as spare rib, tender!. 2 Ib. of Spanish onions, flour, sage, powdered mix salt and:

Method. M i x together a small teaspoonful ofsalt,anda$ofateaspooneasoning, the onions cut iiv:it of cold water into a fireproof stew-jar, cover with a md cook gently on the stove or in the occasionally. When the onions arc (at has been Mix to:;i-ther.1 i iful each of sage, herbs,

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and salt, and 4- the quantity of pepper, sprinkle £ this seasoning on the chops before putting them in the oven, cook gently for 15 minutes, then turn them, sprinkle on the remainder of the seasoning, and cook for 15 minutes longer. Drain off every particle of fat, being careful not to disturb the sediment, sprinkle a tablespoonful of flour on the chops and the bottom of the tin, and return to the oven. When the flour is brown, empty the contents of the stew-jar into the baking-tin, and mix the onions well with the browned flour, using an iron spoon to clear the bottom of the tin. Return to the oven for a few minutes, then arrange the chops neatly overlapping each other on a hot dish, and serve the onions and gravy in the centre.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 1123.— STUFFED PIG'S FEET. (Fr.— Pieds de Pore, Farcis.) Ingredients. — 4 pig's feet, i tablespoonful of flour, i egg, breadcrumbs. For the stuffing: 2 tablespoonfuls of cooked and finely-chopped onion, i small tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, ^ a teaspoonful of powdered sage, i tablespoonful of oiled butter, -| a teaspoonful of made mustard, % a teaspoonful of salt, £ of a teaspoonful of pepper. Method. — Put the feet into a stewpan with a teaspoonful of salt, cover with cold water, and boil gently for about 3 hours. When done, split the feet, remove the bones, and press the forcemeat made of the above ingredients into the cavities. Replace the halves together, and press between 2 dishes, with a heavy weight on the top, until cold. When ready to use, cut the feet into slices about i inch in thickness, roll each piece in flour, brush over with egg, coat with breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in hot fat. Or, if preferred, fry them in a little hot butter in a saute-pan. Garnish with fried parsley before Time. — 5 or 6 hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 1124.— SUCKING PIG, ROASTED. (Fr.— Cochon de Lait roti.) Ingredients. — A sucking pig, not more than 3 weeks old, butter, or salad-oil to baste with, onion forcemeat (see No. 404). Method. — Make the forcemeat as directed, put it inside the pig, and close the opening by means of a trussing needle and string. Brush the entire surface of the pig with salad-oil or warmed butter, wrap it in several folds of well-oiled or well-greased paper, draw the legs well back, tie into shape, and either roast or bake the pig for 2\ or 3 hours, according to its size. It should be thoroughly well basted, and about

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£ an hour before the time of serving, the paper must be removed, and the pig brushed over with thick cream or salad-oil to improve the colour, and crisp the surface. Before serving, cut off the head, and split the pig down the centre of the back; lay the 2 halves on a dish, divide the head, and place \ at each end of the dish. The usual accompaniments are brown and apple sauces, and sometimes hot currants: the latter should be prepared the day before. To make them plump, they must be scalded, and afterwards thoroughly dried. Re-heat in the oven before serving.

Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, from 6s. to IDS. 6d. SuffiROAST Pic WAS DISCOVERED. — Charles Lamb, In his delightfully quaint prose sketches, written under the title of the Essays of Flia, has devoted one paper to the subject of Roast Pig, de::uit.ible, quiet, humorous manner how the toothsome dainty kii> first became known to the world.

According to this authority, man in the golden — or, at all events, the primitive — age. ate his jx-rk and bacon raw, as indeed he ate his beef and mutton. At the epoch of the story, a citizen of some S. vtlu.i: i- to have his hut, containing his live stock.* over the debris to pick out the available salvage, the proprietor touched ^uiK-tlnni; 1 him to put his suffering finger* into bis mouth. The act was simple, but the result was wonderful. He rolled his eyes in ecstasy and conscious of an unwontc odour, with distended nostrils, and drawing in deep inspirations of tin ravishing perfume, h<rs again and again. Clearing away the rubbish of his ruined hut, there was disclosed to his view one of his pigs roasted to death. Stooping down ment of the burnt skin became detached, and in a spirit of philosophical in.jmrv the nun put it into his mouth. No pen can describe the felicity he then enjoyed— it was then that he— the world— first tasted crackling. For a time the Scythian carefully kept his secret, and feasted in secret upon his UK! luxury When the pig was at last eaten up, the poor man fell into a deep melancholy, refused his accustomed food, lost his appetite, and became reduced to a shadow. Unable t f memory from which he suffered hourly, he rose up one night and secretly set fire 1 once more was restored to health and spirits. Finding it impossible to live m future with..lit his newly discovered delicacy, every time his larder became empty he set fire to his bouse. until his neighbours becoming scandalized by these incendiary acts, brought his conduct !•• il of the nation. To avert the penalty threatened him. he brought hi smouldering ruins, and discovering bis secret, he invited them to rat ! With te.irs «f ^r.ititude the in overflowing feeling of ecstasy dedicated a statue to the •Mrnory of the man who first instituted roast pork.

1125.— TENDERLOIN, FRIED. (Fr.— Tendrons de Pore.) Ingredients. — Tenderloin chops (see " Savoury Tenderloin ").

salt and pepper. Irvine-fat Method, ri.u e the ihi>ps in a frying-pan containing a little hot fat, sprinkle lightly with K:nd pepper. -lv l«>r i«> minutes, then turn and sprinkle the <>th •'. ly for 10 minutes longer, then remove tinall the fat. Add;i little boiling w.iter to the sediment in the ste with salt and p<-pper. I->il up. p«»ur round hops, and se; Time.— About 20 minutes. Average Cost,;d. or Sd. per I1 2 small to e.;ih j Seasonable.— < »l>t.rn.d»K-

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II26._TO SCALD A SUCKING-PIG. -(Fr.— Cochon de Lait.) Put the pig into cold water directly it is killed; let it remain for a few minutes, then immerse it in a large pan of boiling water for 2 minutes. Take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as quickly as possible. When the skin looks clean, make a slit down the belly, take out the entrails, well clean the nostrils and ears, wash the pig in cold water, and wipe it thoroughly dry. Take oft" the feet at the first joint, and loosen and leave sufficient skin to turn neatly over. If not to be dressed immediately, fold it in a wet cloth, to exclude the air. 1127.— TO SMOKE HAMS AND FISH AT HOME.

Take an old hogshead, stop all the crevices, and fix a place to put a cross-stick near the bottom, to hang the articles to be smoked on. Next, in the side, cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan filled with sawdust and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the tub upside down, hang the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce the iron pan in the opening, place a piece of red-hot iron in the pan, cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. Let a large ham remain for 40 hours, and keep up a good smoke.

1128.— TO CURE BACON OR HAMS IN THE DEVONSHIRE WAY.

Ingredients. — To every 14 Ib. of meat allow 2 ozs. of saltpetre, 2 ozs. of salt prunella, i Ib. of common salt. For the pickle: 3 gallons of water, 5 Ib. of common salt, 7 Ib. of coarse sugar, 3 Ib. of bay-salt. Method. — Weigh the sides, hams and cheeks, and to every 14 Ib. allow the above proportion of saltpetre, salt prunella and common salt. Pound and mix these together. Rub well into the meat, and lay it in a stone trough or tub, rubbing it thoroughly, turning it daily for 2 successive days. At the end of the second day, pour on it a pickle made as follows: Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, set it on the fire, stir frequently, remove all the scum, allow it to boil for 15 minutes, and pour it hot over the meat. Let the hams, etc., be well rubbed and turned daily; if the meat is small, a fortnight will be sufficient for the sides and shoulders to remain in the pickle, and the hams 3 weeks; if from 30 Ib. and upwards, 3 weeks will be required for the sides, etc., and from 4 to 5 weeks for the hams. On taking the pieces out let them drain for i hour, cover with dry sawdust, and smoke from a fortnight to 3 weeks. Boil and carefully skim the pickle after using, and it will keep good, closely corked, for 2 years. When boiling it for use, add about 2 Ib. of common salt, and the same quantity of treacle, to allow for waste. Tongues are excellent

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put into this pickle cold, having been first rubbed with saltpetre and salt, and allowed to remain 24 hours, not forgetting to make a incision under the thick part of the tongue, to allow the pickle to trate more readily. A fortnight or 3 weeks, according to the size of the tongue, will be sufficient.

Time. — Small meat to remain in the pickle j weeks, hams 3 weeks; to be smoked from 2 to 3 weeks.

1129.— TO CURE BACON IN THE WILTSHIRE WAY.

Ingredients.— i \ Ib. of coarse sugar, i-J- Ib. of bay-salt, 6 ozs. ot, i ib. <•! i ommon -^-dt.

Method.— Sprinkle each Hitch with salt, and let the blood drain off tlu-n pound and mix the aliovc ingredients together and rub it well into ilie meat, which should l>e turned every <1 i month. up to dry, and afterwards smoke it for: Time. --To remain in i month; to be smoked, 10 « Sufficient for i pig.

I'ir.s WE*K ronnrRLV PA^TVRFD AND Fin •:.« immense droves of pigs were 10 barons and franklin*, the swine-herd. feudal h«iu~ UK- franklin ««r vavasour 1. In Germany, where the ch« enormous,.1.

• 1130.— TO CURE HAMS. (M. Ude's Recipe.) Ingredients. — For 2 hams, weighing each about 16 or 18 Ib., allow 1 11). of moist sugar, i Ib. of common salt;e, i quart jar.

As soon as the pig is cold enough to be cut up, take th • 2 hams, rub them well with common sal;.;vc them in a large When the salt has drawn out all the blood, drain the throw the b:. Mix su^ar. salt and.-.Jtpetrc tom the above proportion, rub the hams well with these, and put scl large enough to hold tl..e salt em, Let them remain lor; days, then pour over them i ijnart. Turn them in the brine every day for a month, tin n 1, and nib them with bran. Have them smoked ular that the hams are hung as high as ]>< from the fire; othe: fat will melt, and they will become dry and hard.

Time. — To be; to be smoked, i month. Sufficient • hams ot

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1131.— TO CURE HAMS. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — To 2 hams allow 2 Ib. of treacle, \ a Ib. of saltpetre, i Ib. of bay-salt, 2 Ib. of common salt.

Method. — 2 days before they are put into pickle, rub the hams well with salt, to draw away all slime and blood. Throw away what comes from them, rub them with treacle, saltpetre and salt, lay them in a deep pan, and let them remain i day. Boil the above proportion of treacle, saltpetre, bay-salt and common salt for 1 5 minutes, and pour this pickle boiling hot over the hams. There should be sufficient of it to cover them. For a day or two rub them well with it, afterwards they will only require turning. They ought to remain in this pickle for 3 weeks or a month, and then be sent to be smoked, which will take nearly or quite a month to do. An ox-tongue, to be eaten either green or smoked, pickled in this way is excellent. Time. — To remain in the pickle, 3 weeks or a month; to be smoked, about i month.

1132.— TO CURE HAMS (Westmoreland Recipe.) Ingredients. — 3 Ib. of common salt, 3 Ib. of coarse sugar, i Ib. of baysalt, 3 quarts of strong beer.

Method. — Before the hams are put into pickle, rub them the preceding day well with salt, and thoroughly drain the brine from them. Put the above ingredients into a saucepan, and boil for 15 minutes; pour over the hams, and let them remain i month in the pickle. Rub and turn them every day, but do not take them out of the picklingpan, and have them smoked for a month.

Time. — To be pickled, i month; to be smoked, i month. II33._TO CURE HAMS (Suffolk Recipe).

Ingredients. — To a ham from 10 to 12 Ib., allow i Ib. of coarse sugar, | of a Ib. of salt, i oz. of saltpetre, \ a teacupful of vinegar. Method. — Rub the hams well with common salt, and leave them for a day or two to drain; then rub well in the above proportion of sugar, salt, saltpetre and vinegar, and turn them every other day. Keep them in the pickle i month, drain them, and send them to be smoked over a wood fire for 3 weeks or a month.

Time. — To remain in the pickle, i month; to be smoked, 3 weeks or i month. Sufficient for i ham.

The following is from Morton's " Cyclopaedia of Agriculture." CURING OF HAMS AND BACON.

The carcass of the hog, after hanging over-night to cool, is laid on a strong bench or stool, and the her.d is separated from the body at the

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neck, close behind the ears; the feet and also the internal fat are removed. The carcass is next divided into two sides in the following manner: the ribs are divided about i inch from the spine on each side, and the spine, with the ends of the ribs attached, together with the internal flesh between it and the kidneys, and also the flesh above it, throughout the whole length of the sides, are removed. The portion of the carcass thus cut out is in the form of a wedge — the breadth of the interior, consisting of the breadth of the spine and about i inch of the ribs each side, being diminished to about \ an inch at the exterior or skin along the back. The breast-bone, and also the first anterior rib, are also dissected from the side. Sometimes the whole of the ribs are removed; but this, for reasons afterwards to be noted, is a very bad practice. When the hams are cured separately from the sides, which is generally the case, they are cut out so as to include the hockbone, in a similar way to the London mode of cutting a haunch of mutton. The carcass of the hog thus cut up is ready for being salted, which process, in large curing establishments, is generally as follows: The skin side of the pork is rubbed over with a mixture of 50 parts by weight of salt and i part of saltpetre in powder, and the incised parts of the ham or flitch and the inside of the flitch covered with the same. The salted bacon, in pairs of flitches with the insides to each other, is piled one pair of flitches above another on benches slightly inclined. and furnished with spouts or troughs to convey the brine to receivers in the floor of the salting-house, to be afterwards used for pickling pork for navy purposes. In this state the bacon remains a fortnight, which is sufficient for flitches cut from hogs of a carcass- weight less than 15 stone (14 lb. to the stone). Flitches of a larger size, at the expiration of that time, are wiped dry and reversed in their place in the pile, having, at the same time, about half the first quantity of fresh, dry, common salt sprinkled over the inside and incised parts; after which they remain on the benches for another wn-k. Mams being thicker than flitches, will require, when less than 20 lb. weight, 3 weeks; and when above that weight, 4 weeks to remain under the above-described process. The next and last process in the preparation of bacon and hams, previous to being sent to market, is drying. This is effected by hanging the flitches and hams for 2 or 3 weeks in a room heated by stm-es, or in a smoke-house, in which they are exposed for the same length of time to the smoke arising from the slow combustion of the sawdust of oak or other hard wood. The latter mode of completing the curing process has some advantage over the other, as by it the is subject to the action of creosote, a volatile oil produced by the combustion of the sawdust, which is powerfully antiseptic. The ]> also furnishing a thin covering of a re-.imms \.uni-h. rxrludrs the air not only from the mus, le, 1ml also from tin- tat. thus effectually preventing the meat from becoming rusted; and the principal reasons for condemning the practic* the ribs from the flitches of pork

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are that by so doing the meat becomes unpleasantly hard and pungent in the process of salting, and by being more opposed to the action of the air, becomes sooner and more extensively rusted. Notwithstanding its superior efficacy in completing the process of curing, the flavour which smoke-drying imparts to meat is disliked by many persons, and it is therefore by no means the most general mode of drying adopted by mercantile curers. A very impure variety of TYPOLIGNEOUS acid, or vinegar made from the destructive distillation of wood, is sometimes used on account of the highly preservative power of the creosote which it contains, and also to impart the smoke-flavour; in which latter object, however, the coarse flavour of tar is given, rather than that derived from the smoke from combustion of wood. A considerable portion of the bacon and hams salted in Ireland is exported from that country packed amongst salt, in bales, immediately from the salting process, without having been in any degree dried. In the process of salting above described, pork loses from 8 to 10 per cent, of its weight, according to the size and quality of the meat; and a further diminution of weight, to the extent of 5 to 6 per cent., takes place in drying during the first fortnight after being taken out of salt; so that the total loss in weight occasioned by the preparation of bacon and hams in a proper state for market, is not lesson an average than 15 per cent., on the weight of the fresh pork.

1134.— TO CURE PIG'S CHEEKS.

Ingredients. — Salt, ^ an oz. of saltpetre, 2 ozs. of bay-salt, 4 ozs. of coarse sugar.

Method. — Cut out the snout, remove the brains and split the head, taking off the upper bone to make the jowl a good shape. Rub it well with salt; next day take away the brine, and salt it again the following day. Cover the head with saltpetre, bay-salt and coarse sugar in the above proportion, adding a little common salt. Let the cheeks be often turned, and when it has been in the pickle for 10 days, smoke it for i week or rather longer.

Time. — To remain in the pickle, 10 days; to be smoked, i week. Average Cost, 6d. per Ib.

1135.— TO CURE OR PICKLE PORK.

Ingredients. — \ of a Ib. of saltpetre, salt.

Method. — As pork does not keep long without being salted, cut it into pieces of a suitable size as soon as the pig is cold. Rub the pieces of pork well with salt, put them into a pan with a sprinkling of it between each piece, and as it dissolves on the top, sprinkle on more. Lay a coarse cloth over the pan, and over it a board, and place a weight on the board, to keep the pork down in the brine. If the air be excluded, it will continue good for nearly 2 years.

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RECIPES FOR COOK INC, PORK 657 Average Cost, od. per lb., for the prime p. •;.— The hog is one utcdofnni:

:>,irbarous, and wherr tho wild --,••;•- is HMwith • Jit be rsed to be derived. The ho^ is the principal qu.idruprd <«t !. up«xi -1 other vegetables, i renders the flesh juicy, rich in II36._TO BAKE A HAM. (Fr.— Jambon roti.) Ingredients. — Ham, a common crust.

Method. — As a ham for baking should be well soaked, let it remain in water for at least 12 hours. Wipe it dry, trim away any rust v p! und«'rnea'h, and cover it with a common crust, taking c Main Iv.} hours. T.ikth'- r with r. ame as for tx ham:il!1137.- TO BOIL A HAM. (Fr.— Jambon bouilli.) Ingredients.— Ham. water, glaze or raspings. Method. — In choosing a ham, ascertain that it is perfectly running a s! into it, close to the bone; if, when the knit withdrawn, it has an agreeable smell, the ham is good; but, on >uld the ivc a greasy appearance and < !, the ham is bad. If it has been long hung, and: and.ily.

very hard '. ham. and tri;:

und i would it. 1 irefullyn until tender, and be careful th.it it i: stop boiling nor boil too quickly. When done take it out of the strip of;: inkle over it a few bread-raspings, pu frill of cut papier round the knuckle, and serve. If to l>< >ld, lie ham remain in r until nearly cold; by this method juk:>t in, and it will l>e found infinitely superior to one taken.tcr hot. When the skin is removed, sprinkle over br, or glaze it.

Time.— A ham weighing 10 lb., 4 hours to simmer gently; 15 lb., rgc one about 6 hours. Average Cost, from is. per IK. by the whole:

II38._TO BOIL A HAM. (Another Method.) Ingredient • >f celery (or less), 2 tur. large bunch of 3 rbs.

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Method. — Prepare the ham as in the preceding recipe, and let it soak for a few hours in vinegar and water. Put it on in cold water, and when it boils add the vegetables and herbs. Simmer very gently until tender, take it out, strip off the skin, cover with bread-raspings, and put a paper ruche or frill round the knuckle.

Time. — A ham weighing 10 lb., 4 hours. Average Cost, is. per lb., by the whole ham.

1139.— TO BOIL BACON. (Fr.— Petit Lard Bouilli.) Ingredients. — Bacon, water.

Method. — As bacon is frequently excessively salt, let it be soaked in warm water for an hour or two previous to dressing it; then pare off the rusty parts, and scrape the under-side and rind as clean as possible. Put it into a saucepan of cold water, let it come gradually to a boil, and as fast as the scum rises to the surface of the water, remove it. Let it simmer very gently until it is thoroughly done; then take it up, strip off the skin, and sprinkle over the bacon a few bread-raspings and garnish with tufts of cauliflower or Brussels sprouts. When served alone, young and tender broad beans or green peas are the usual accompaniments.

Time. — i lb. of bacon, |- of an hour; 2 lb., i£ hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. per lb. for the prime parts.

1140.— TO BOIL PICKLED PORK.

Ingredients. — Pork, water.

Method. — Should the pork be very salt, let it remain in water about 2 hours before it is dressed. Put it into a saucepan with sufficient cold water to cover it, let it gradually come to a boil, then gently simmer until quite tender. Allow ample time for it to cook, as nothing is more unwholesome than underdone pork, and, when boiled fast, the meat becomes hard. This is sometimes served with boiled poultry and roast veal, instead of bacon; when tender, and not over salt, it will be found equally good.

Time. — A piece of pickled pork weighing 2 lb., i\ hours; 4 lb., rather more than 2 hours. Average Cost, pd. per lb. for the prime parts. 1141.— TO MAKE LARD.

Method. — Melt the inner fat of the pig by putting it in a stone ]ar, and placing this in a saucepan of boiling water, previously stripping off the skin. Let it simmer gently, and, as it melts, pour it carefully from the sediment. Put it into small jars or bladders for use, and keep it in a cool place. The flead or inside fat of the pig before it is melted makes exceedingly light crust, and is particularly wholesome. It may be preserved a length of time by salting it well, and occasionally chang-

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ing the brine. When wanted for use, wash and wipe it, and it will answer for making paste as well as fresh lard.

Average Cost, lod. per Ib.

1142.— TO MAKE SAUSAGES. (Fr.— Saucisses.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of pork, fat and lean, without skin or gristle; i Ib. of lean veal, i Ib. of beef suet, £ a Ib. of breadcrumbs, the rind of £ a lemon, some nutmeg, 6 sage leaves, i teaspoonful of savoury herbs, \ a teaspoonful of marjoram.

Method. — Chop the pork, veal and suet finely together, add the breadcrumbs, lemon-peel (which should be well minced), and a grating of nutmeg. Wash and chop the sage-leaves very finely; add these, with the remaining ingredients, to the sausage-meat, and when thoroughly mixed, i -it her put the meat into skins, or, when wanted for table, form it into little cakes, which should be floured and fried. Average Cost, for this quantity, 2S. 6d. Sufficient for about 30 moderate-sized sausa; Tut Hoc IN ENGLAND.— From time immemorial the bog has been valued in England. In the l -Saxon period vast herds of swine were tended by men who watched over th« ir s..f«-ty. and collected them under shelter at night The flesh of the animal was the staple article of cousui md a large portion of the wealth of the well-to-do freemen of the country consisted of swine. Hence it was a common practice to make bequests of swine with land for their support, h bequests were attached rights and privileges in connexion with the feeding of th.. x t.•:. t of woodland to be occupied by a given number being granted in accordance with established 1 143. -TO MAKE BRAWN.

Ingredients. —To a piu's head \\eighing ft Ib. allow i \ Ib. of It an beef, 2 tablespoon fill,2 teaspoonluls of pepper, a little eavenne, 6 pounded cloves.

Method. -Cut of! the cheeks and salt them, unless the head be small, when all may be used. A tully cleaning the head, put it on in sufficient cold water to cover it, with the l>ccf, and skim it just IK it l.oils. A head u-i-hin- '> Ib. will n-.juire boiling from 2 to 3 hours. When sufficiently boiled to come off the bones easily, put it into a hot •:. remove the bones, and chop the meat with a sharp knife b« th-;he r with the beef. It is necessary to do this as qui» klv as to prevent the fat settling in it. Sprinkle in the season which should have been previously n.::r it well, and put it quickly into a brawn-tin: a cake-tin or mould will answer the purpose, if the meat is well pressed with v 'iich must not be removed ••ral hours. When quit.- cold, dip the tin into Imiling water for a minute or two, and the preparation will turn out and be fit for liquor in which the head was boil- •<! will make good pea soup, and the fat, if skimm i boil- d in w.it r, and afterwards poured into cold water. the purposes,,f lard.

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Time. — From 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, for a pig's head, 5d. per Ib. THE SAXON SWINEHERD. — The men employed in tending swine in Anglo-Saxon times were usually thralls or slaves of the soil, who were assisted by powerful dogs, capable of singly contending with a wolf until his master came with his spear to the rescue. Sir Walter Scott, in Ivanhoe, gives a graphic picture of Gurth, an Anglo-Saxon swineherd; and also of his master, a large landed proprietor, whose chief wealth consisted of swine, the flesh of these liberally supplying his rude but hospitable table. 1144.— HOW TO LARD WITH LARDING BACON.

Ingredients. — Bacon and larding-needle.

Method. — Bacon for larding should be firm and fat, and ought to be cured without any saltpetre, as this reddens white meats. Lay it on a table, the rind downwards, trim off any rusty part, and cut it into slices about |- of an inch in thickness when intended to be used for larding cutlets, small fillets and birds, and slightly thicker when for the purpose of inserting in a whole fillet of beef, or joints of a similar or larger size. Lay these slices on the board and cut them again in strips, each of the four sides of which shall be equal. The length of lardoons varies from i£ to 2 inches. They should be inserted as evenly as possible in horizontal lines, and the lardoons forming the second and fourth rows must intersect those of the first and third, thus producing the diagonal lines, and diamond-shaped spaces. The primary object of larding is to add a fatty substance to lean, dry meats, such as the breast of chickens and other birds, backs and thighs of hares, small, lean fillets of veal, mutton and beef, and many other things. They, however, add greatly to the appearance of a dish when the lardoons are arranged evenly, and their ends cut to a uniform length by means of scissors. Larding is a simple and easy process when the lardoons are inserted across the grain or fibres of the meat, but may be very troublesome if an attempt be made to lard thin fillets in a contrary direction. In inserting the needle no more of the flesh should be taken up than is necessary to hold the lardoon firmly in place; and it must be pulled through with a short, sharp jerk, a finger of the left hand being pressed on the end of the lardoon to prevent the end of it passing through with the needle.

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CHAPTER XXII General Observations on Birds and on Poultry Breeding: > 1 > 1 1:

Or !• • -•. ' \\- on their habits of life and. st: B of the sternum or 1 sub-i-lusthe Itulcs all binl •• rnnin \vitln-1.

all i ami tin- remarkable.-.ml with ru and:hat of the Carin..

an«l includes all birds ha:ul cluck.

orders— / prey.

1; Insessores, pn the lark. and all singing birds; Scansores, climbCuckoo; Rasorcs, sera ti- hi: •:ion fowl. partridiM- and ]>heasant; Cursorcs, rum. birds, sm h ry; Grallatores, wading b; k and the heron; Nalatores,:i/.<-d b\ pcliran and the £ull; and Saurura, lizard-tailed birds, which in> '. 'v. A i).tion, ba t eristics, by Professor Hu birds into other orders. It \\iil m.\ of function to environment in • La comprised in the ri-ht oi lie land and the water has ( rid of in!

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The Mechanism which enables Birds to fly is singular and instructive. Their bodies are covered with feathers which are much lighter than the hair with which quadrupeds are usually covered; the feathers are so placed as to overlap each other, like the slates or tiles on the roof of a house; they are also arranged from the fore-part backwards, so as to enable the birds to cleave their way through the air more conveniently. Their skeleton is well adapted for aerial existence; the bones are hollow and extremely light in comparison with those of terrestrial animals, the bone tissue containing a much larger proportion of phosphate of lime. Moreover, the long bones contain air instead of marrow, and are filled with air by means of special apertures connected with air-cells supplied from the lungs. This greatly facilitates their rising from the earth; their heads are comparatively small, their bills are wedge-shaped, and their bodies are slender, sharp below and round above. With all these conditions, however, birds could not fly without wings. These are the instruments which confer the power of rapid locomotion. They are constructed in such a manner that they are capable of great expansion when struck in a downward direction; if, in this action, we except the slight hollow which occurs on the under side they almost become two planes. That the downward action may be accomplished to the necessary extent, the muscles which move the wings have been made exceedingly large; so large, indeed, that, in some instances, they have been estimated at not less than a sixth of the weight of the whole body. Therefore, when a bird is on the ground and intends to fly, it takes a leap, and immediately stretching its wings, strikes them out with great force. By this act these are brought into an oblique direction, being turned partly upwards and partly horizontally forwards. That part of the force which has the upward tendency is neutralized by the weight of the bird, whilst the horizontal force serves to carry it forward. The stroke being completed it moves upon its wings which, being contracted and having their edges turned upwards, obviate, in a great measure, the resistance of the air. When it is sufficiently elevated it makes a second stroke downwards, and the impulse of the air again moves it forward. These successive strokes may be regarded as so many leaps taken in the air. When the bird desires to direct its course to the right or left it strikes strongly with the opposite wing, which impels it to the proper side. The tail plays a prominent part in the movements of the bird, acting like the rudder of a ship, except that it moves upwards and downwards instead of sideways; if the bird wishes to rise, it raises its tail; it depresses it when it desires to descend; if it wishes to preserve a horizontal position it keeps its tail steady. For example, a pigeon or a crow will preserve a horizontal flight for some time without any apparent motion of the wings; this is accomplished by the bird having already acquired sufficient velocity and by its meeting with but small resistance from the atmosphere, owing to its wings being parallel to

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS 663 the horizon. Should the bird begin to fall it can easily steer itself upward by means of its tail until the motion it had acquired is nearly spent, when by a few more strokes of the wings the impetus is renewed. When alighting a bird expands its wings and tail fully against the air, just as a ship, in tacking round, backs her sails in order that they may meet with the maximum of resistance.

The construction of Birds shows that their eyes are peculiarly adapted to the requirements of their environment. As a defence against external injury from the thickets and hedges in which they pass a great part of their life, and also as a protection against the effects of the light when they are flying in the face of the sun, their eyes are provided with a nictating or winking membrane, or third e\ vlid. placed below and within the ordinary lids, and moved by two little muscles on the back of the eyeball; this lid is kept moist by a gland which secretes a lluid, and it can be drawn at pleasure over like a curtain. This covering is neither opaque nor wholly pellucid, but is somewhat transparent; and it is by its means that the ea-Je is said to be able to gaze at the sun. " In birds," says a wi iter on this subject, " we find that the sight is much more piercing, and exact than in the other orders of animals. The eye is much larger in proportion to the bulk of the head than in any of t is a superiority conferred ujKm them n<>t without a corresponding utility; it srems even indispensable to their safety and subsist •rgan in birds dull, or in the least degree^ opaque-, they would::om the rapidity of th»-ir motion, of striki:

various objects in their flight. In this ca^c their celerity, instead of I vantage, would In-come an evil, and their flight be: by tin dan.m r result in- from it. Indeed, we may consider the velocity with which an animal moves as a sure indication of the perfection of ion. Among the quadrupeds, the sloth has its sight pi limited; whilst tin in the air, can espy a lark sitting on a clod, perhaps at twenty times the distance at which a man or a dog could it."

Respiration. — Of the many peculiarities in the construction of birds, not the least is the by which they breathe. They do so by.hout the body and adhering to the u; ice of the bones; these by their motion force the air ie lungs, which an.ill and placed in the r.:

<>f the chest, and d n to the back and ribs; the blood uil circulation of birds;at of mamm ts of two auricles and two NC of th< Hood, into the lun-s for purification ' the lefi pure blood, out f> m the body; the blood of birds has a higher t< • -f mammals, aver.

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Birds are Distributed over every Part of the Globe, being found in the coldest as well as the hottest regions, although some species are restricted to particular countries, whilst others are widely dispersed. At certain seasons of the year many of them change their abodes, and migrate to climates better adapted to their temperaments or modes of life, for a time, than those which they leave. Many of the birds of Britain, directed by an unerring instinct, take their departure from the island before the commencement of winter, and proceed to the more congenial warmth of Africa, to return with the next spring. Various causes are assigned by naturalists for this peculiarity, some attributing it to deficiency of food, others to the want of a secure asylum for the incubation and nourishment of their young, and others again to the necessity of a certain temperature for existence; natural selection may be a probable explanation of the phenomenon of the migration of birds. Their migrations are generally performed in large companies; in the daytime they follow a leader who is occasionally changed; during the night-time many of the tribes send forth a continual cry, to keep themselves together, although it might be thought that the noise which must accompany their flight would be sufficient for that purpose.

The Food of Birds varies, as does the food of quadrupeds, according to the character of the species. Some are altogether carnivorous; others, as for instance many of the web-footed tribes, subsist on fish; others, on insects and worms; and others again on grain and fruit. The extraordinary powers of the gizzard of the gramnivorous birds enable them to comminute their food so as to prepare it for digestion. Their digestive system consists of glands of a simple form, of a single or double ingluvies or crop which receives the food; of the proventriculus, or true digestive cavity; of the gizzard furnished internally with horny ridges by means of which the food is broken up, and a comparatively short intestine and gall bladder. The stones found in the stomachs of birds take the place of teeth, in that they grind down the grain and other hard substances which constitute their food. The stones themselves, being also ground down and separated by the powerful action of the gizzard, are mixed with the food, and doubtless contribute greatly to the health as well as to the nourishment of the All Birds are Oviparous. — The eggs which the various species produce differ in shape and colour as well as in point of number. They contain protoplasm, the elements of the future young, for the perfecting of which in the incubation a bubble of air is always placed at the large end, between the shell and the inside skin. This air bubble gets larger by absorption through the shell and evaporation of the fluid contents, so that a large air-bubble is the sign of a stale egg. During incubation the shell is dissolved, and goes to form the bones of the chick. To preserve an egg perfectly fresh, and even fit for incubation,

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GENERAL ODH KVATIOXS ON BIRDS 665 for five or six months after it has been laid, stop up its pores with a slight coating of varnish or mutton-suet, lairds, l.< not 1. fore they have some place to put them; accordingly, they construct nests for themselves with astonishing art, Each ciyumstance H«>w artfully contrived to favour warmth!

H- re read the reason of the vaulted roof; kind, iisproportkm that si:'.

en the mother and the numerous brood, Which hir small bulk must quicken into life. In building their nests the male and female generally assist each other, and they contrive to make the outside of their tenement I H lance as possible to the surrounding foliage or branches,.t it cannot very easily be discovered even by those who are in h of it.

Birds as Food.— There is no bird, nor any bird's egg, that is k to be poisonous, though v, and often do, become unwhol by reason of the food i birds eat. which at all times giv.it ly the quality of tb « n in birds of the sanv adoor fowls are less fat than, but i >r in flavour to the n close crops for the te ^s of fo\v aps and house refuse arc generally strong and disagreeable. Wild ducks and other aquatic birds are often rank and fishy fla\< The pigeon fattens and wastes in the course of a few hours. (1 flavour of the grouse is said to be due to the heather shoots on which it feeds.

Poultry. — Most poultry breeders arrange that poultry ble shall undergo a special preparation pr« Killed, but it will be found that the flesh of a healthy fowl which has 1 free out-of-door life till the* last moment is both better in i: in that of one which has been k:iimmu-nt,.ind !- s compul.-orily into an unhealthy condition of obesity. li fed and killed at the nqht -.irally feel birds will be quite plump enough. T! ridges, for in plump <-c to find th a famous tor the: the poultry s, as they are more frequently invariably command the hi-lu^t prices; and deservedly so, ^h.

\Vhile the birds are l>< must have only soft food, no hard corn 1 »le. The best (kg foods arc ground and whole whc.r •ances. ] rnntni -:ch to the ilr-h; and in but to d<

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666 HOUSEPIOLD MANAGEMENT plenty of good, wholesome flesh. Whatever the breed, the treatment is the same in the fattening coop. Chickens should be confined in them when about three months old, and be fed three times a day, the troughs, which are hung outside the coop, being removed as soon as they have satisfied their appetites. Food should never be left standing by them, and in the early fattening stages it is a good plan to miss a meal at the first indication of failing appetite. The ground oats, which constitute their principal food, are nearly always mixed with separated milk, and made so moist that the birds cannot lift up a lump with their beaks. It is necessary that they should be kept in semidarkness; and when their appetites fail, as they usually do after a fortnight's restraint, the cramming machine has to be utilized, the same food being still given them, with the addition of suet or rough fat. The coops or pens employed by the poultry feeders are made of laths, stand raised from the ground, and are usually placed in sheds. They who have no fattening pens should confine the fowls in a small run, feed them three times a day on ground oats, barley-meal, and maizemeal mixed with potatoes. When a certain stage is reached the birds begin to go back, and should be killed at once, first letting them fast twenty-four hours to empty the crop. The longest period that is advisable for fattening a fowl is three weeks.

An easy way to kill a fowl is to hang it up by the legs, and with a sharp knife pierce the roof of the mouth until the point touches the brain. Death is instantaneous, and the fowl should be plucked whilst warm, and then placed in a V-shaped trough, back uppermost, a board being laid on the top with a heavy weight upon it, to ensure the fowl being a good shape when cold.

Fattening Turkeys for the Table. — Turkeys grow very slowly; therefore, the earlier they are hatched the better when it is necessary that they should attain their full growth by Christmas. They need plenty of liberty and good feeding from the day of their hatching until they come to the fattening shed. A roomy shed, open to the south, should be selected for the purpose, for these birds thrive best when kept warm and dry. The shed should be supplied with low perches, kept scrupulously clean, and provided with means for excluding the light. They are usually fed twice a day; in the morning on a mixture of meals, such as ground oats, barley-meal, sharps or pollard, and a little maize, moistened with separated milk. The afternoon meal sometimes consists of whole corn, previously soaked in hot water and given to them whilst warm, or it may be simply a repetition of the morning's meal. The addition of fat helps to make the flesh of the birds white, and a certain amount of flint grit is necessary to their well-being. They should not be permitted to see fowls at liberty while under restraint themselves, otherwise they are apt to fret and refuse their food. Fattening Ducks for the Table. — The secret of success in fattening ducks consists in starting the process almost as soon as they are hatched, in

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON BIRDS 667 order to have them ready before their first moult, which takes place when they are about ten weeks old. The Aylesbury " duckers," as the duck fattcners are called, get their ducklings to scale four pounds and over when eight or nine weeks old. Ducklings should be bedded on straw in an airy shed, kept clean and only let out to feed, when they should have all they will eat and drink, and then be driven back to the shed The food should be mixed fairly moist, and consist of mixed meals, ground oats, biscuit-meal, barley-meal, sharps or well-boiled rice, to which a little fat is added. They should not be permitted to swim, and should be sheltered from the sun. As soon as the adult quill- feathers appear on their wings, they go back in condition and are troublesome to pluck; therefore, unless killed before that stage is reached, they should be turned out, and kept until about three or four months old. Flint grit should be put in their water-trough while they are fattening. Fattening Geese for the Table. — Goslings are generally allowed their liberty during the summer, and have little food except the grass they It is not advisable to shut them up when the time con fatten them; they should simply be well fed morning and ev< and permitted to range at liberty and cat all the grass possible, for grass forms a considerable portion of their food. A mixture of boiled harps and various. mid be given them in the morning, and maize or wheat at night, the latter being put in the water-t: hould be allowed all the food they will eat for three or four \ before killing. If shut up they can b; but fat geese are not desirable, for they lose too much weight in cook To Choose Poultry. When fresh, the eyes should be clear and not sunken, the feet limp and pliable, stilt dry Mire indi. •lie bird has not been recently killed; and if the bird is plucked should be no discoloration of the skin.

Fowls, when young, should have smooth legs and feet; the cock:ng when it has smooth legs and si h.ivc smooth legs. The bones of all young birds are soft and and the-. lea with Ig0; tin- end of the b.vhen young is Mift and pliablr; when nti. it may be bird of an old t"\\l.:, horny-looki:

and hairy thighs, s: lx>ncs. Game fowls, and thus,>r l>«>ilmg. White re suitable for boiling.

Turkeys. Turkeys, wh<; urs and smooth black legs; when th< ^h and rough,: s may be taken as - When freshly killed li-Mild be full turkevs the b<. an 1 tl.

1 ducks ! >w feet and bills; as they

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grow old they become darker and reddish in colour. The feet of freshly killed geese and ducks are moist and soft, but, like those of fowls and turkeys, they become dry and stiff when they have been killed some

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CHAPTER XXIII 1145.— CANNELONS OF CHICKEN. (Fr— Cannelons de Volaille.) Ingredients. — Chicken croquette mixture, No. 115. rough puff paste,;, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.

Method. — Roll out the paste as thinly as possible, and cut it into 1 1 or I \ inch squares. Place a little chicken mixture in the centre of each square, and roll up rather tightly. Coat them carefulh •id breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until lightly-browned, then drain \vell, and.rnished with Time. — To fry, 5 minutes. Average Cost, 2d. to 3d. each. Allow 2 or 3 to each person. Seasonable at any time. 1146.— CANVASS ACK, BOILED.

American Cookery."

1147.— CANVASBACK, ROASTED.

" American Cook( 1148.— CAPONS AND POULARDES, TO DRESS.

The mal.- fowl, the capOQ, and the female bird, the pnu! both, by treatment while young, made iivapablc of g, with that their size b ilXa become fatter than ordinary fowls. 'I". ur of t; rde is considered more te than that of the capon, but tl -ird. They may be boiled. ted, or otherv, ed, according to the >r cookir equ.d to tin- lurds in point o| (••.

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1149.— CHICKEN A LA MARENGO. (Fr.— Poulet saute a la Marengo.*) Ingredients. — i chicken, £ of a pint of salad-oil, i pint of Espagnole sauce (see Sauces, No. 244), the pulp of 2 ripe tomatoes, £ a glass of sherry, i dozen preserved mushrooms, 6 stoned olives, i truffle, salt and pepper, fleurons for garnish.

Method. — Divide the chicken into neat pieces, and fry them in saladoil until nicely browned, then drain well and pour away the oil. Heat up the Espagnole sauce with the tomato pulp, replace the chicken in the stewpan, add the sherry, mushrooms and olives whole, the truffle cut into large pieces, and simmer gently for three quarters of an hour, or until the chicken i* tender. When done, pile in the centre of a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and garnish with the mushrooms, olives and truffle. Place a few fleurons, i.e., half-moon or crescent-shaped pieces of puff pastry, or croutes of fried bread, round the dish. Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 53. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 FOWLS. — The name sometimes applied to birds of large size, but more usually restricted to those of the genus Callus, of which the domestic fowl is a familiar example. Such birds form a typical group of Rasores, or " scratchers." They are furnished with strong beaks and claws, and the heads of the males are distinguished by a comb, brightly coloured and frequently erectile, their legs are provided with spurs used in conflict, the cock being a very pugnacious bird, and resenting the presence of a rival. The plumage of the male bird is much more brilliant than that of the female, except in the case of the pure white breeds, the long feathers of the cock's tail, with their graceful curve, adding beauty to the appearance of the bird. The fowl is interesting from its susceptibility to variation under domestication. Its original habitat appears to have been Eastern Asia and the Malayan Archipelago. The Bankiva Jungle Fowl, a native of Java, is supposed to have been the original stock from which the domesticated varieties have been derived. Among the numerous breeds or varieties are the Common or Barndoor fowl, a bird of no special breed, but representing interbreeding between various varieties: the Cochin-China fowl, the Polish fowl, the Spanish fowl, the Hamburg, the Dorking, the Bantam and the Game fowl. The term chicken is applied to the young female bird, from the period it is hatched until it is four months old; after that age until they begin to lay they are called pullets, and subsequently hens. 1150.— CHICKEN, BOILED, TURKISH STYLE.

(Fr.— Poulet Bouilli a la Turque.) Ingredients. — i chicken or fowl, \ a Ib. of boiled rice, \ a pint of tomato sauce (see Sauces No. 281), i oz. of butter, i teaspoonful of cornflour, i finely-chopped shallot, salt and pepper.

Method. — Boil the chicken and cut it into neat joints. Melt the butter, fry the shallot slightly, add the tomato sauce, and when thoroughly hot put in the pieces of chicken, and simmer very gently for 25 minutes. A few minutes before serving add the cornflour previously blended with a little cold water. Arrange the chicken neatly in a border of boiled rice, strain the sauce over, and serve.

Time. — From i£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45. Sufficient 1151.— CHICKEN, BOMBS OF. (Fr.— Petites Bombes de Volaille.) Ingredients. — £ a Ib. of raw chicken, i oz. of flour, \ an oz. of butter,

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£ a gill of water, 3 whites of eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, chopped parsley, salt and pepper, £ a pint of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces, No. 178).

Method. — Pass the chicken 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, or chop it finely. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in the flour, add the water, boil well, then turn the panada or culinary paste on to a plate to cool. Pound the chicken in a mortar until smooth, adding the panada gradually, and each white of egg separately. Season to taste, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Have ready the bomb moulds thickly coated with clarified butter, and sprinkle their entire surface with chopped parsley. Whip the cream slightly, stir it lightly into the chicken puree, and pipe the mixture into the moulds. Place them in a stew-pan containing boiling water to about half their depth, cover with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and cook gently for 20 or 25 minutes. Arrange them in 2 rows on a hot dish, pour the hot sauce round, and serve.

Time. — About 20 minutes, to cook the bombs. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 45. Sufficient for 10 or 1 2 bombs, according to size. 1 152. -CHICKEN, BOMBS OF (Cold). (Fr.-Petites Bombes de Volaille a la Gelee.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of cooked chicken, 2 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, i tablcspoonful of sherry, £ a gill of thick cream, \ a pint of aspic jelly, 4 sheets of gelatine, dressed salad. For coating the moulds: aspic jelly, cream, small green peas, truffle, chili, or other decoration. Method. — Coat the moulds thinly with aspic jelly, decorate them tastefully with truffle, or whatever is preferred, set with aspic jelly, then line with aspic cream, made by combining cold liquid aspic jelly and cream in equal quantities. Chop the chicken finely, pound in a mortar until smooth, adding seasoning, white sauce, and sherry by degrees. Rub through a fine wire sieve, then add the nearly cold aspic jelly ^in which the gelatine must have been previously <li->olvr<l, and the cream stiffly whipped, mix all lightly but thoroughly together, and turn into the moulds. When cold serve on a bed of dn and garnish with aspic jelly, cucumber, tufts of endive, or other suitable garnish.

Average Cost. — 35. to 35. 6d., exclusive of the chicken. Sufficient for 8 or 10 small moulds.

TIIF FORKING derives its name from the town of that name in Surrey, where the breed cxi<K in (Treat perfection. The colour of the true Dorking is pure white; the bird is its possession inber the foot.

•;.it r.irtirular breed ' ti.ni i >n tin-,.f tlir 1 itti-r i" tlif fi'iiiu-r..ni«l the f.u t ih it the • * k, alth'Hi; MI.U^II white stock from Dorking

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1153.— CHICKEN, BOUDINS OF. (Fr.— Boudins de Volaille a la Richelieu.) Ingredients. — For the farce, or stuffing: £ a Ib. of raw chicken, i oz. of flour, i oz. of butter, \ a gill of stock (made from chicken bones), i egg, salt and pepper, nutmeg. For the salpicoii, or mince of game or poultry: i sweetbread, or a few lambs' throat breads, i slice of tongue, 6 preserved mushrooms, i large truffle, 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of white sauce, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat.

Method. — Melt the butter in a small stewpan, stir in the flour, add the stock, boil well, then turn the panada, or culinary paste, on a plate to cool. Chop the chicken meat finely, or pass it through a mincing machine, pound it in the mortar until smooth, adding the panada and egg gradually, then season to taste, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Blanch and cook the sweetbread in stock, cut it and the tongue, mushrooms and truffle into small dice, moisten with the white sauce, and season well. Have ready 8 or 10 boudin or quenelle moulds well coated with clarified butter, line them evenly and rather thickly with the chicken farce, fill with the salpicon, cover with farce, and smooth the surface with a hot, wet knife. Place them in a saute-pan, surround them to half their depth with boiling water, cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a moderate oven from 25 to 30 minutes. Unmould, and, when cool, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until golden-brown in hot fat. Drain well, arrange neatly on a folded serviette or dishpaper, and serve with hot ravigote or other suitable sauce. Time. — To cook, from 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 43. 6d. to 55. Sufficient for 8 or 10 boudins.

1154.— CHICKEN, CASSEROLE OF. (Fr.— Poulet en Casserole.) Ingredients. — i chicken, 4 to 6 oz. of streaky bacon, 2 ozs. of butter, i shallot, finely-chopped, 2 tabiespoonfuls of coarsely-chopped mushrooms, preferably fresh ones, stock, i oz. of flour, salt and Method. — Divide the chicken into neat joints. Heat i oz. of butter in a casserole just large enough to hold the chicken, and fry in it the bacon cut into strips. Then put in the chicken, add the shallot and mushrooms, cover, and cook slowly. Turn the pieces over, and when both sides are nicely browned, add stock to barely cover, and season to taste. Knead the flour and the remaining oz. of butter together, and add the mixture in small pieces, about 1 5 minutes before serving. The chicken should be served in the casserole, but it may, if preferred, be turned on to a hot dish.

Time. — From i£ to \\ hours. Average Cost, 33. to 43. Sufficient for

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Ifroid of Capon. 2. Chicken Qucnclk-s and Peas. 3. Fricassee of Chicken. 39 Z

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i. Mould of Chicken. 2. Quenelles of Quail (Cold). 3. Braized Fillets of Duckling in Paste Border.

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1155.— CHICKEN CREAM. (Fr.— Creme de Volaille.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of raw chicken, free from bone and skin, $ of a pint of thick Bechamel sauce (see Sauces No. 178), £ of a pint of double cream, i egg, salt and pepper, truffles.

Method. — Chop the chicken meat finely, pound it in a mortar until smooth, adding the egg and white sauce gradually, and pass the ingredients through a wire sieve. Whip the cream stiffly, stir it lightly in, and season to taste. Turn the mixture into I large or 6 or 7 very small buttered moulds and steam gently until firm. Dish up and sauce over. Server garnished with tru fries, and send a boat of.amel or other suitable sauce to table separately. Time. — To steam in I mould, about 30 minutes; in small moulds, about 25 minutes. Average Cost, 33. to 35. 6d. Sufficient for 8 or 9 PENCILLFP HVMBCRG. — This variety of the Hamburg fowl is of two colours, golden and silver narked. The hens of both these varieties have the body pencilled across with. ime — and the hackle in both sexes of good breed; ks do not exhibit the pencilling*, but are white and brown res; • •d Hamburg* are compact in form, and spi:--ht!\- and graceThe hens lay abundantly, but are not sitters. They are imported id, and are also bred in England, the latter being much superior in si/e. known in various parts of the country as " Chitteprats," " Creoles " or " Corals," ^ and greys," and in tome parts of Yorkshire are called " Corsican fowls." 1156.— CHICKEN, CREPINETTES OF. (Fr.— Crepinettes de Volaille.) Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of cooked chicken, 2 oz. cooked ham, 4 button mushi truffle, i yolk of egg, 2 or 3 t 'iifuls of white sauce, salt and pepper, pig's caul, ± a pint of brown sauce (see >'S).

Method. — Cut the chicken, ham, mushrooms, and truffle into shreds about i inch in length, add the yolk of ei;g to the hot sauce, season to put in the shrcdd licnts, stir by the side of the 1: de until cold (this is called the Salpicon).

dry it, and cut it into 4-inch sqi Knfold a d< s ertspoonful of the mixture in each piece of caul, form into:i in tlu- oven for f> minut< r coat them with crumbs, and fry in hot I- > bed of spinach or preen and pour the:nd.

Time. - About i hour. Average Cost, is. oxl. to 2s. Sufficient for t 4 or 5 persons.

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1157.— CHICKEN, CROQUETTES OF. (Fr.— Croquettes de Volaille.) Ingredients. — 6 to 8 ozs. of cold chicken or fowl (boned), 2 ozs. of cooked ham or tongue, £ of a pint of stock, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, I tablespoonful of cream, i teaspoonful of lemon-juice, 6 button mushrooms, i truffle, salt and pepper, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat. Method. — Chop the chicken and ham or tongue finely, cut the mushrooms and truffle into small pieces. Melt the butter, fry the flour without browning, add the stock, and cook well. Stir in the chicken, ham or tongue, cream, lemon-juice, mushrooms and truffle, season with salt and pepper, and turn on to a plate to cool. Make into corkshaped croquettes, coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat.

Time. — i hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2S. Sufficient for about 6 1158.— CHICKEN KROMESKIS. (Fr. Cromes Quis de Volaille.) Ingredients. — Make a salpicon as directed in the preceding recipe, as many small very thin slices of bacon as there are cork-shaped pieces of the mixture. For the batter: 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of flour, i tablespoonful of salad-oil or oiled butter, i egg, salt, frying-fat.

Method. — Mix the above ingredients into a smooth batter, and add to it i saltspoonful of salt.

Wrap each piece of the chicken mixture in a slice of bacon, dip into a light batter prepared from the above named ingredients, and fry in a deep pan of hot fat. Drain, and serve garnished with parsley. Time. — i hour. Probable Cost, is. 9d., to 2s. Sufficient for about 1159.— CHICKEN, CUTLETS OF. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Volaille.) Ingredients. — £ a Ib. of cold chicken, J of a pint of white sauce, i oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, the yolks of 2 eggs, -£ a shallot finely-chopped, salt and pepper, nutmeg, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat. Method. — Chop the chicken finely. Fry the shallot and flour in the butter without browning, add the stock, and boil well. Put in the chicken, add nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, stir over the fire until thoroughly hot, then add the yolks of eggs, and cook the ingredients for 2 or 3 minutes longer. Cool the mixture; when firm, shape into cutlets, egg and crumb them, and fry in deep fat. Drain well, arrange them in a close circle on a dish paper, garnish with fried parsley, and

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K1AIPES FOR COPKINVr POULTRY 675 3 oz. of lean ham, finely chopped, may be added to the chicken if liked.

Time. — i hour. Average Cost, 2s. 9d. Sufficient for about 7 persons. 1 160. — CHICKEN, ESCALOPES OF. (Fr.— Escalopes de Poulet.) Ingredients. — The legs of a large u ncooked chicken, $ alb. of lean Ib. of bacon (a corresponding amount of sausage-meat may be; tuted for- \ and bacon), 6 mushrooms, i truffle, 2 yolks of eggs, i pint of stock, 3 ozs. of butter, \\ ozs. of flour, i tablespoonful drops of lemon-juice, i onion, i carrot, $ a small turnip, i strip of a-K-ry, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay nd pepper, spinach pMethod. eal and bacon are used, chop and pound them smoothly, then rub through a fine sieve. Add to this puree ol rooms an-' cut into.d with the 2 yolks of eggs. Bone the t with rcpared farce or stuffing, shaping them as much hk \\ ozs. of butter and the s'.

pan, lay the chicken leijs on the top, cover, and fry pently for r« > minutes. -lock to I the depth of the v place a buttered paper he chicken legs, put on the lid, and cook gently for i ho ag butter, stir in the flour, and cook over the fire until a brown roux, or thickening, is formed. ie chicken re sufficiently cooked, remove them and keep them hot. »ck on to the brown rotix, stir until b<.tncr for 20 mi;.dd the si lemon-juice, season to taste, and keep hot until -en legs into $-inch slices, arrange them slightly t* each other on the bed of spinach, strain the sauce i Time. — About \\ hours. ArerageCost, 33. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. 1 161.— CHICKEN FOR INVALIDS.

See "Chicken, Ramakins of." No. 1186. "Chicken. Small Soufll6 hicken, Soufftt of," No. i u, ]ada/( 178; also Chapter on " Invalid Cookery."

e* the Bantam was introduced into Europe it has differmore or less ekgant. and some remarkable for their beaut v. Thr hould be of small grace. The most popular variety is remarkable for the Imnl or teams of the k?v ^ ttifl Icxic f • ie ground. This variety is ra pure state. Another variety to red with a black breast and stack dentated comb, with smooth miniature, both as regards co,,ra,-r MM] lpWt,an1.v. •. !..,s.-: -If.;....; • wi,t !;•: u. t -..... ',.:. -

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1162.— CHICKEN FORCEMEAT. (Fr.— Farce de Volaille.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of raw chicken, free from bone, loz. of flour, i oz. of butter, i egg, \ a gill of chicken stock, salt and pepper, nutmeg. Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the stock, boil well and let the panada or culinary paste cool slightly. Cut up and pound the chicken meat in the mortar until smooth, adding the egg, and the panada by degrees. Season to taste, rub through a fine wire or hair sieve, and use for quenelles, cutlets, boudins, bombes, timbales, etc. Before moulding or shaping the farce, its constituency should be tested, and if found too firm a little cream may be added. 1163.— CHICKEN FRIED IN BATTER. (Fr.— Fricandelles de Volaille.) Ingredients. — Chicken mixture as for croquettes of chicken, No. 1157, egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat. For the batter: 4 ozs. of flour, \ a pint of milk, i egg, i saltspoonful of salt.

Method. — Make the chicken mixture as directed. Mix the flour, milk, egg and salt into a smooth batter, and prepare some very thin pancakes. As each one is fried, spread the meat preparation over one side and roll up tightly. When cold, cut across into 2 or 3 pieces, about i\ inches in length, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in deep fat. Drain well, and serve garnished with fried parsley. Time. — i hour. Average Cost, from is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 7 or 1164.— CHICKEN, FRICASSEED. (Fr.— Fricassee de Volaille.) Ingredients. — i boiled chicken, i pint of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces), \ a gill of cream, the yolks of 2 eggs, the juice of i lemon, salt and Method. — Cut the chicken before it is quite cold into neat joints. Make the sauce as directed, put in the pieces of chicken, let them remain until thoroughly hot. Add the yolks and cream previously blended, and stir by the side of the fire until the sauce thickens, without boiling. Season to taste, add the lemon-juice, arrange neatly on a hot dish, and strain the sauce over. The dish may be garnished with truffle or cooked green peas, and the fricassee served in a border of mashed potato if desired.

Time. — About f of an hour, after the chicken is boiled. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

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1 165. -CHICKEN, FRITOT OF. (Fr.— Fritot de Poulet).

Ingredients. — Cold chicken, either roast or boiled. For the marinade or liquor: 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of salad-oil, i tablespoonful of lemoni teaspoonful of finely-chbppcd onion, i teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, £ of a teaspoonful of salt, £ of a teaspoonful of pepper. For the batter: 4 ozs. of Hour, £ of a pint of tepid water, i tablespoonful of salad-oil, the whites of 2 eggs, i saltspoonful of salt, frying- fat. Method. — Cut the chicken into small joints, remove the skin, trim the pieces neatly, place them in a deep dish, pour over the marinade, and let them remain in it for i£ hours, turning them frequently. Mix the flour, salt, water, and salad-oil into a smooth batter, let it stand for i hour, then stir in lightly the stiffly-whisked whites of eggs. Drain the pieces of chicken well, dip them into the batter, and fry until nicely browned in hot fat. Drain from the fat, arrange neatly on a dishpaper, garnish with crisply-fried parsley, and serve. Tartare or tomato sauce should be served separately in a sauceboat. Time. — Altogether, 2 hours. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45. 6d., \ a large chicken is used. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. SIR JOHN SEBRICMT'S BANTAMS.— This celebrated breed, which Sir John Sebright, after many years of careful experiment, brought to perfection, is considered to be the best and most beautiful of Bantam fowls. The bird is very small, with unfrathercd legs, and a rose-comb and short hackles, ^old or span::her being of a golden-orange or a silver- white colour, with c male is folded like that of thr hen. with the sickle feather* •raight. and broader th.in in other varieties of the Bantam. It •ul irlv proiul. rroi t and g.illant carriage, throwing back the head until. t hers of the tail. Half-bred birds of this kiud are not uncommon, but the pure breed is highly valued.

1 166.— CHICKEN GRILLED WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE. (Fr.— Poulet Grille aux Champignons.) Ingredients. — i chicken, $ Ib. lean raw ham, £ a pint of 1 sauce (see Sauces, No. j button mushrooms, salad-oil or <>ilrd butter, a crouton of friMethod.— Divide the chicken into pieces convenient for s< i the sauce as directed, add to it the mushrooms, season to taste, and keep hot until required. Cut the crouton to fit the dish, and fry it until lightly browned in hot fat. Cut the ham into short, and fi over with salad-oil or oiled 1 them over or in front Arrange neatly on t h< strain the sauce round, and garnish with groups of mushd h.xm.

Time. To.t^nll i dx>ut 15 minutes. Average Cost Sufficient for.\ or 5 jv rsons.

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1167.— CHICKEN GUMBO. (See American Cookery.) 1 168.— CHICKEN ITALIAN. (Fr.-Poulet a 1'Italienne.) See " Chicken with Italian Sauce," No. 1204.

1169.— CHICKEN JELLY. (Fr.— Gelee de Volaille.) Ingredients. — i chicken or fowl, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the chicken into small pieces and put them into a stewing- jar with about i pint of water and a little salt and pepper, and cook it in a moderately cool oven for 2 hours. Cut the flesh off the breast, wings and legs in thin slices, replace the bones and trimmings in the stew-jar, and cook as rapidly as possible on the stove for \ an hour. Meanwhile arrange the slices of chicken in a mould or piedish, leaving a space at the sides, and as much space as possible between the layers, to be afterwards filled with stock. When the stock is ready, strain it, season to taste, let it cool slightly, and pour it over the chicken. Turn out when cold, and serve as a breakfast or luncheon dish. Time. — To cook, about 2^ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 33. 6d. Sufficient for i mould of medium size. Seasonable at any time. THE POLAVD. — This bird, a native of Holland, is a great favourite with fowl-keepers, from the great number of eggs which the birds of this variety produce, a circumstance which has caused Polands in many parts to be known as the " everlasting layers." From observation of the number of eggs produced by this prolific fowl, it was found that in one year five hens laid no less than 503 eggs, the average weight of each egg was i oz. and 5 drachms, the total weight of the whole, exclusive of the shells, amounting to 50! Ib. The common black breed is plain in appearance, and hns a bushy crown of white feathers; other varieties, as the " silver-spangled " and the " goldsnangled," ate handsome birds. The Poland is easily fattened, and its flesh is considered to be more juicy and of a richer flavour than many other fowls. 1170.— CHICKEN KLOPPS.

See " Indian Cookery."

1171.— CHICKEN LEGS AS CUTLETS. (Fr.— Cuisses de Volaille en Cotelettes.) Ingredients. — Chickens' legs, slices of bacon, stock, Espagnole sauce (see " Sauces," No. 244), 2 onions" sliced, 2 carrots sliced, i small turnip sliced, 8 peppercorns, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), Method. — Remove the thigh bones, but leave the drumstick, season the legs with salt and pepper, and fold the skin under. Shape as much like a cutlet as possible, enfold each leg in a piece of muslin, and fasten securely. Put the vegetables, bouquet-garni and peppercorns into a stewpan, nearly cover them with stock, and lay the legs on the top. Cover each one with a slice of bacon, place a greased paper over the whole, put on a close-fitting lid, and cook gently for about i hour. Remove the muslin and serve with the sauce poured over, or they may be glazed a.nd have the sauce poured round. If preferred,

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the legs may be enclosed in a pig's caul, instead of muslin, in which case they should be browned in a hot oven, and glazed before serving. Time. — To braise, from i to ij hours. Average Cost, accessories to 4 chicken legs, about is. Allow i leg to each person. Seasonable at any time. H72.-CHICKEN LEGS, STUFFED. (Fr.— Cuisses de Volaille Farcies.) Ingredients. — The legs of a cold fowl, i tablespoonful of sweet oil, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped sweet herbs, $ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped lemon rind, 2 slices of onion (blanched and chopped), i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i egg, 4 slices of streaky bacon, 2 slices of toasted buttered bread, Method. — Cut each leg into 2 joints, and saw off the drumsticks, place them on a plate, season with pepper and salt, and moisten with a little sweet oil. Tut the breadcrumbs, lemon rind, sweet herbs, onion and parsley in a basin, mix well, moisten with the yolk of an egg and season with a pinch of salt and a tiny pinch of cayenne. Drain the chicken's legs, cover each with the farce or stuffing above prepared, then wrap up in a slice of bacon, tie with twine, or r them securely. Place them on a greased baking-tin or santep.m. and cook in the oven for about 20 minutes. Cut each slice of 1 bread in two, trim neatly, dress the chicken's legs on these, dish up, garnish \vilh a few sprigs of curly ]>ar>ley, and srrvc hot. Time. — To cook, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. pd. TMK Si H vi TA-OOK. OR FOWLS OF THE SULTAV. — This fowl, which was first intnxl land in 1851 from Const.intim.pl.-..me from the Turkish sarai, " It ta-ook, " fowl. l«risk birds, exrellrnt l.iyors. but n»t u **! lit esemblc the a white.:id tuft on t! muffled, havt.;*, and 5 toes on each foot. T: misting only of two lit t: < arc small. The colour of the bird is pure white. 1173.— CHICKEN LIVER PATTIES. (Fr.— Pates de Foie de Volaille.) Ingredients.—Chicken livers, butter, brown sauce (see " Sauces," No. 233), rough put! paste, salt Method, i the gall and:id dry the livers, cut them t»ss them in hot butter over the; • 1 \vii!». thinly rolled out ]).iste. till them with liver, season highly with >alt and j •• and a<ld a little hnnvn MUtCe. ( <>v<: with JM->!C, brush over with beaten in a moderately-hot oven for about jo minutes, and her hot or cold.

Time. — To bake, about 20 minut--;. Average Cost, 2d. each. Allow Seasonable at any tun--.

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1174.— CHICKEN LIVERS ON TOAST.

See Chapter on " Savouries."

1175.— CHICKEN, MAYONNAISE OF. (Fr.— Mayonnaise de Volaille.) Ingredients. — i cold boiled chicken or fowl, £ of a pint of Mayonnaise sauce (see Sauces, No. 201), £ of a pint of aspic jelly, dressed salad. Method. — Cut up the chicken into small joints, remove all the skin and ends of bones, and shape the pieces as neatly as possible. Dissolve the aspic jelly; when cool enough, add it to the Mayonnaise sauce and mask the chicken. To facilitate the masking process place the pieces of chicken on a wire tray and pour over the sauce carefully by means of a tablespoon. When the sauce is set, decorate tastefully with truffle and chervil, and mask with a thin layer of liquid Aspic. Arrange neatly on a dish on a bed of dressed salad, and garnish the side of the dish with sprigs of endive, slices of cucumber and blocks of aspic jelly. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 35. 9d. to 55. Sufficient for 1176.— CHICKEN, MINCE OF, BREADED.

(Fr. — Poulet au Gratin.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of coarsely-chopped cooked chicken, free from bone, 2 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped cooked ham, £ a pint of Bechamel sauce, (see Sauces, No. 178) breadcrumbs, butter, nutmeg, Method. — Mix the chicken and ham together, stir in the sauce, which should thoroughly moisten the whole, otherwise more sauce must be added. Season to taste, add a pinch of nutmeg, and turn the mixture into 6 or 8 well-buttered scallop shells. Cover lightly with breadcrumbs, add 2 or 3 small pieces of butter, bake in a moderately-hot oven until nicely browned, then serve.

Time. — To bake, from 6 to 8 minutes. Average Cost, Sd., exclusive of the chicken. Seasonable at any time.

VARIOUS MODES OF FATTENING FOWLS.— It is considered by some fowl-keepers that the flesh of a healthy well-fed fowl, which has lived a free, out-of-door life, is both in flavour and wholcsomeness preferable to a bird kept in confinement and compulsorily fed. If, however, special fattening is resorted to, the birds should be confined in a clean warm pen or run, and fed three or four times a day on as much soft food as they will eat, care being taken to feed them very early in the morning and as late as possible at night. When specially fattened for the market the fowls are kept in the dark, which encourages them to rest — an essential to the laying on of flesh. The foods chiefly used for fattening are ground oats, whole wheat-meal, maize-meal and buckwheat-meal; the last should always be included among the food; fatty substances, as suet, are added by some to increase the fatness of the fowl. The true object, however, should be to develop abundance of good, wholesome flesh. Milk, either new or skimmed, is a valuable addition to the food, with whirh it should be mixed hot. Three weeks is the usual period for fattening a fowl. 1177.— CHICKEN, MINCED. (Fr.— Poulet Emince.) Ingredients. — Cold chicken; to each £ Ib. allow i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, \ a pint of stock, salt and pepper, poached eggs.

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RECIPES FOR COOK I NO POULTRY 681 Method. — Chop the chicken finely, boil the bones and trimmings for at least i£ hours, and use the stock for the sauce. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the stock and boil gently for 20 minutes. Season to taste, add the minced chicken, draw the stcwpan aside, then let it remain until the contents are thoroughly hot, and serve garnished with neatly poached and trimmed eggs.

Time. — Allow J of an hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost, is. 3d., exclusive of the chicken. Allow i lb. of chicken and (> 1 1 78.— CHICKEN PANADA. (Fr.— Panade de Volaille. ) Ingredients. — 4 to «; ozs. of raw ihu ken, J a gill of cream, pepper and Method. — Pass the chicken lived from skin and bone 2 or 3 times h a mincing machine, then place it in a buttered jar, cover closely, the jar ma- < ontainint; a lit tie boil;: simntly for nearly i hour, I'-uin-i;n a mortar, adding i son to taste, and pass the mixture thr> Whip • r in the chicken preparation, and serve on toast or in ramakin be heated in d on hot buttered t< Time. T«» cook the chicken, about i hour. Average Cost, about is. Sd. Sufficient for _• persons. Seasonable at any ti: the s.uw sice, for. as a rule, eggs equ at both rnds • <!k, and are worthless. Egn intended for - > place under a hen; in WAI met we.ithfr ' t it l»> vrrv ti t t > fifteen The egg» should be carefully tseventh or <•• be sufficiently ^rrve excel!'::iust be carefully replaced under the hen without shaking. •.• should b« broken, it must be removed, ai. wfse the contents of the broken egg will cause the other••.•->• too may become fractured. Many eggs are now hatched by;s, at a steady temperature of tox" to 104*. It is important that eggs hatcht:

H79.-CHICKEN PATTIES. (Fr.-Bouchees a la Reine.) Ingredients. — 4 to 6 ozs. of cold boiled chicken, 2 ozs. of c< ham, 6 button mushrooms, i trufrie, i teaspoonful of lemon salt and pepper, J of a pint of Ik'-ch. « e (sec Sa puff j-> Method. Chopthi nd ham not too finelv, cut the muslirooms and tr.and mix all together. Stamp out 9 or 10 patty d mark the O ith a smaller • out the aoi s hot until

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required. Have the Bechamel sauce ready in a stewpan, add to it the chicken preparation, season with salt and pepper, put in the lemonjuice, and stir the mixture over the fire until thoroughly hot. Fill the cases, put on the lids, and serve, garnished with tufts of fresh or fried parsley.

Time. — To bake the pastry, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2S. Sufficient for 8 or 9 patties.

HATCHING. — Sometimes the chick within the shell is unable to break away from its prison; for the white of the egg will occasionally harden in the air to the consistence of joiners' glue, when the poor chick is in a terrible fix. Aii able writer says: " Assistance in hatching must not be rendered prematurely, and thence unnecessarily, but only in the case of the chick being plainly unable to release itself; then, indeed, an addition may probably be made to the brood, as great numbers are always lost in this way. The chick makes a circular fracture at the big end of the egg, and a section of about one- third of the length of the shell being separated, delivers the prisoner, provided there is no obstruction from adhesion of the body to the membrane which lines the shell. Between the body oi the chick and the membrane of the shell there exists a viscous fluid, the white of the egg thickened with the intense heat of incubation, until it becomes a positive glue. When this happens the feathers stick fast to the shell, and the chicks remain confined, and must perish if not released."

The method of assistance to be rendered to chicks which have a difficulty in releasing themselves from the shells is to take the egg in the hand, and dipping the finger or a piece of linen rag in warm water, to apply it to the fastened parts until they are loosened by the gluey substance becoming dissolved and separated from the feathers. The chick, then, being returned to the nest, will extricate itself — a mode generally to be observed — since, if violence were used, it would prove fatal. Nevertheless, breaking the shell may sometimes be necessary; and separating with the fingers, as gently as may be, the membrane from the feathers, which are still to be moistened as mentioned above, to facilitate the operation. The points of small scissors may be useful, and when there is much resistance, as also apparent pain to the bird, the process must be conducted in the gentlest manner, and the shell separated into a number of small pieces. The signs of a need of resistance are the egg being partly pecked and chipped, and the chick discontinuing its efforts for live or six hours. Weakness from cold may disable the chicken from commencing the operation of pocking the shell, which must then be artificially performed with a circular fracture, similar to that made by the bird itself 1 180.— CHICKEN PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Volaille a TAnglaise.) Ingredients. — i large or 2 small chickens, \ a Ib. of ham or bacon, 2 hard-boiled eggs, veal forcemeat balls, No. 412, |- of a pint of chicken stock, i yolk of egg, salt and pepper, puff paste, Method. — Divide the chickens into neat joints, cut off the legs and wings at the first joint, and boil these with the backbones, necks and gizzards for about 2 hours, then strain and use for stock. Parboil the livers, chop them very finely, and mix them with the forcemeat. Cut the ham into strips, and the eggs into sections or slices. Place the pieces of chicken and the prepared ingredients in a pie-dish in layers, season carefully with salt and pepper, f fill the dish with stock. Roll out the paste, cover the piedish with it, ornament, and brush over with yolk of egg. Bake from i-| to if hours, in a quick oven, until the paste has risen and set, and then more slowly. Before serving, add the remainder of the hot stock to the pie. If preferred, the bones may be removed and the pieces of chicken stuffed with sausage-meat, or the veal forcemeat may be used for this purpose instead of being made into bails. See also the forcemeat used in making " Lark Pie."

Time. — To bake the pie, from i£ to if hours. Average Cost, if with 2 chickens, about 8s. Sufficient for 7 or 8 persons*

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1 181.— CHICKEN PILLAFF. (Fr.— Pillau de Volaille.) Ingredients. — i chicken or fowl, 3 pints of stock (or 3 pints of water and j 11). of scrag end of neck of mutton), 6 ozs. of Patna rice, 4 ozs. of butter, 2 Spanish onions, 2 small onions, i tablespoonful of curry paste, i carrot, i blade of mace, 6 black peppercorns, salt, pepper. Method. — Divide the chicken into pieces convenient for set remove the skin and the feet and wings at the first joint. Put the backbone, neck, giblets, bones and trimmings into a stcwpan with the stock (or the water and mutton cut into small pieces), add the on tside •.f each Spanish onion, the carrot, mace and peppercorns, and boil gently for 2 or 3 hours, then strain. Heat 2 ozs. of butter in a stcwpan, cut the Spanish onions into dice, fry them until lightly brouiud, add the rice (previously well washed and drained), i£ pints of stock, season with salt and p«-pper, and cook the ingredients gently by th« fire. Melt the remaining 2 ozs. of butter, fry the pieces of ci slowly until nicely browned, keep them hot until the rice has ab^ r part of the stock, then put them with the curry the stewpan and mix well with the rice. Continue the cooking until the rice and chicken are perfectly tend' more sto A few minutes before serving re Q which the c!

was fried, cut t s, and fry them i Pile the pillau in the centre of a hot dish, scatter on th Time. A! -out i hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost, 43. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

THE Y I —The young chicks which are firtt hatched should be taken from tin the ben, otherwise s! it her task a: eggs to spoil. A^ s.v.: i.is tii.- v" i •,.: K:.l- HI UlMlt a the n " • '.'. ••• -. '. • •; ':. ' ' i-r,-: ' • • •' v ••.. • •. in if th-v an;r hours th. If the whole of the brood i^.rn may ad soaked in milk and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg with Emdcn grits, or food of a similar 1182.— CHICKEN, POTTED. (Fr.— Terrine de Volaille/ Ingredients. -i ins of cold roast chicken; to every Ib. 3 ozs. of cooked ham, 4 ozs. of butter, nutmeg, salt and pepper, clarified but Method. — Pass the chicken and !. aes throu.

ma-'hine, or chop them ]xnind in a mortar until smooth, adding seasoning to taste and t.; graduall through a >ieve, press into small pots, and cover the con clarified but1 Average Cost.— is. 3d. to is. 6d.

1183. CHICKEN PUREE FOR GARNISH.

See " C !

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1184.— CHICKEN, PUREE OF, WITH RICE.

(Fr. — Puree de Poulet au Riz.) Ingredients. — 4 ozs. of finely-chopped cooked chicken, 2 ozs. of finelychopped cooked ham, 4 ozs. of rice, white stock, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and pepper, chopped truffle.

Method. — Blanch the rice, drain well, cover with white stock, and cook gently until tender and dry. Pound the chicken and ham until smooth, moistening gradually with a little stock, and pass these ingredients through a wire sieve. Stir in the cream, season to taste, make thoroughly hot, stirring meanwhile, and add stock, a little at a time, until the preparation is reduced to the consistency of thick cream. Turn into 5 or 6 well-buttered scallop shells, arrange the rice to form a narrow border, sprinkle the surface with truffle, and serve.

Time. — Altogether, about i± hours. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any time.

FEEDING AND COOPING THE CHICKS. — When all the chicks are hatched they should be placed with the mother hen under a coop, in a warm dry place. If two hens happen to have broods at the same time, care must be taken to keep their broods separate, for should they become mixed and go under the same coop, the hens will probably maim and destroy the chicks which do not belong to them. After being kept snug beneath the coop for a week— the coop being placed under cover at nightfall — the chicks may be allowed to run about for an hour or so during the warmest part of the day. They should be gradually weaned from the soaked bread and chopped egg, and grits or boiled barley substituted. In eight or ten days their stomachs will be sufficiently strong to receive bruised barley, and, if healthy, at the end of three weeks, the chicks will be able to take care of themselves. It is well, however, to watch over them for a week or so longer, to prevent older chickens driving them away from their food. Great care should be taken that the very young chicks do not run about the wet ground or on damp grass, which causes the chief and most fatal disease to which the young birds are liable. While under the coop with the hen a shallow pan of water should be supplied to the chicks, as they are apt to drench themselves and take cold, or get drowned in a deep vessel.

Detached nesting-boxes containing finely-sifted moist sand or cinder ashes, good straw, and a little hay on top, should be placed against the walls of the house, which is preferable to fixed rows of nests, since they can readily be moved, limewashed and cleansed. In front of the house a wiredin run should be provided, not less than six feet in height, and as long in extent as possible. The floor of the run should be covered with sifted ashes or good gravel, the latter being very helpful to the birds in assisting the process of digestion.

1185.— CHICKEN, QUENELLES OF. (Fr— Quenelles de Volaille.) Ingredients. — 8 ozs. of raw chicken, 2 ozs. of flour, \ an oz. of butter, £ of a pint of stock or water, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, salt and Method. — Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the stock, let boil whilst stirring. This will produce the panada; which put aside to cool. Shred or mince the chicken meat finely, or pass it through a mincing machine, pound well in the mortar, adding the panada by degrees and each egg separately, season well, and rub through a fine wire or hair sieve. Whip the cream slightly, and stir it lightly into the chicken puree. Poach a little of the preparation and, if too stiff, add a little more stock or cream. See " Quenelles of Veal " for directions for shaping, cooking and serving.

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1 186.— CHICKEN, RAMAKINS OF. (Fr.— Souffles de Volaille en Caisses.) Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of raw chicken, ± of a pint of cream, 4 yolks of j whites of eggs, £ an oz. of butter, 2 mushrooms, i truffle, salt Method. — Shred the chicken meat finely, or pass it through a mincing machine, then pound it well in the mortar, adding by degrees the yolks of 4 eggs, season well, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Whip the slightly, and whisk the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and then add with the mushrooms and trutllc cut into small dice, to the chicken pm\c. Mix lightly together, and put the mixture into 8 well-buttered china or.•.kin cases. The cases should not be more than three parts tilled, as the mixture rises considerably in baking. Place the cases ona nd cook them in a moderate oven for about r:ses, and, if liked, send hot Bechamel or other su; sauce to table in a sauce-boat.

Time. — To bake, from 18 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 23. 6d. Sufficient for 8 cases.

Tn constructing a fowl house, rare should be taken to build it •he v>uth. or in one comer, so that the garden or fence form* t f south or south-east, thus sheltering the fowK from < The side and end of th« t of vund wrather boarding, and the roof of the same material with a good fall, so that the rain may run on: in the corner of the house furthest away from the.e rt.vT of the home should slope half an inch to the foot from back to front. made of concrete, to keep away rat* < v«Tnmi food floor may be formed of chalk and dry soil, mixed togrther rammed down. Upon this some thrr.. ashes should be sifted, and kept regul« of good s !,!«!, arranged like step?, ends falling into sockets. *> that they may be eav: render acces* to th. which i< c- wls. should be at • Md •:;•• m i..•. • i.r.1 I:•• i ••. •.••• i i •. > • •. '. i:. t.., •,• ortant fur th* 1 Mi; one or two small panes of glass should therefore be let into the house front on the sunny sxle. 1 187.- CHICKEN, RECHAUFFE OF.

See " Fowl, Hashed," Recipe No. i 1 188.— CHICKEN, RISSOLES OR RISSOLETTES OF.

(Fr.— Rissolettes de Volaille.

Ingredients. — About 4 ozs. of cooked chicken, 2 ozs. of cooked ham or i.utton mushrooms, i small trulilc, $ an oz. of butter, } an oz. <>1 t'.our, ] stock, i tablcspoonful of cream, salt and rnbs, fryi >ugh puff paMethod. C i op the chicken and ham finely, cut the mushrooms and t:: the butter in a stcwpan, stir in the season to:<1 the uul put aside to cool. Roll out the

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paste as thinly as possible — stamp it out into rounds of about 2 inches diameter, pile a teaspoonful of the preparation in the centre, wet the edges with water, place another round of paste on the top, and press the edges together neatly. Brush over with egg and cover with breadcrumbs, and fry until lightly browned in hot fat. If preferred, half the quantity of the meat mixture may be enclosed in i round of paste, one half of which must be folded over to form them into halfmoon shapes; variety may be introduced by substituting crushed vermicelli for the breadcrumbs.

Time. — Altogether, i-J- hours. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 8 to 12 rissoles, according to the size made. 1189.— CHICKEN, ROASTED. (Fr.— Poulet Roti.) Ingredients. — i good chicken, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, \ a pint of stock, fat for basting, salt and pepper, bread sauce (see Sauces, No. 1 80); a few drops of liquid caramel, watercress.

Method. — Truss the chicken for roasting, prick the entire surface of the breast with the point of a metal skewer or trussing needle, skewer over it the slices of bacon, baste well with hot fat, and roast before a clear fire or in a moderate oven for about i hour. Baste frequently, and a few minutes before serving remove the bacon for the breast to brown. Meanwhile simmer the neck (and the liver and gizzard when not trussed in the wings) in the stock. When the chicken is sufficiently cooked remove it to a dish, drain off every particle of fat, taking care not to disturb the sediment, pour in the stock, boil for 2 or 3 minutes, season and colour to taste, and strain into a sauceboat. Have ready the watercress well washed, drained, and season lightly with salt and pepper, and use as garnish. Serve both gravy and bread sauce Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 43. Sufficient from 4 to 6 persons.

NOTE. — The pricking of the breast is not essential, but some cooks prefer this way. 1190.— CHICKEN, ROASTED, FRENCH STYLE.

(Fr. — Poulet Roti a la Frangaise.) Ingredients. — i chicken, i oz. of butter, i-£ gills of stock. For the mirepoix, or foundation: i small onion, i carrot, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, salt and pepper, bread sauce (see Sauces No. 180), watercress for garnish.

Method. — Draw the chicken, wash the liver and heart, and put them aside; cut off the legs just below the first joint, truss for roasting, and spread the butter thickly over the breast. Slice the vegetables, put them into a baking-tin with the bacon, and the liver and heart of the chicken, fry these a little, then place the chicken on the top of the

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mirepoix, season well with salt and pepper, and cook in a quick for about 40 minutes. Baste frequently, and, if ncccss. r the breast with buttered paper to prevent it becoming too brown. When the chicken is done, remove the trussing string and skewers and hot. Drain the fat from the baking-tin, add the stock, boil for 2 or 3 minutes, season it to taste, and strain. Garnish the n with tufts of crisp watercress, and serve the gravy and bread ely.

Time.— About i hour. Average Cost, 43. Sufficient for 4 or 5 V-TMISTICS or HEALTH AND POWER.— The chief characteristics of health in a fowl are bright*: lryiif« of eye and nostrils, the comb and wattles firm and ruddy, and the feat hers elastic and vie is generally the greatest tyrant, who struts among his hens despoti• ki hi* head erect, and with ever watchful eyes. A cock to be handsome should be of medium size his bill short, his comb bright red, his wattles large, his breast broad, and bis wings strong. His head should be small, bis le«s short and sturdy, and his spurs well- formed; his feathers should be short and close, and the more frequently and heartily he crows, the better father he is likely to become. Medium-sized hens are, as the rule, the best for breeding purposes. 1 191. -CHICKEN SALAD. (Fr.-Salade de Volaille.) Ingredients. — Cold chicken (roast or boiled) cut into joints or pieces if '.; to 4 tablespoonfuls.Ulo\v j t.il»k spoonfuls of:, i tablespoonful of li:: white of hard b« •.•<M>nfuls ot M.uoiinaisc sauce (see ^ NO. 201), i d* spoonful of salad-oil, i dessertspoonful of vinegar, ^ a tcaspoonful of salt, \ of a teaspoonful of pepper. For garnishing: pickled ghi capers, fillets of anch< <-d French olives, lett Method.— Mix the shredded chick lite of egg tog'n a bowl, stir in the salad-oil and vinegar, season with the salt and pepper, and let the mixture stand for i hou: <ly to stir in tl. aise sauce, range the salad in a dish on a bed ttuce, garnish tlu> surface with the gherkins, capers, an, and, if liked, the yolks of eggs, previously rubbed ugh a fine sie Time. — About i J hours. Average Cost, is. oxi. to 2s. 3d. for this quanSufncient for 5 pcrso:

1192.— CHICKEN SAUTED (/'V.-Poulet Saute.) See " Chicken & la M.uvn-o," Recipe No. 1 149, and "Fowl Fried,," No. 1230.

1 193. -CHICKEN, SMALL SOUFFLES OF.

(Fr.— Petits Souffles de Volaille.) Ingredients. — 4 to 5 ozs. of rawc! t of cream, i trultle, s.tli and peppt ii.unel sauce (see Sauo

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Method. — Scrape the meat finely, pound it in a mortar with the yolks of the eggs, add seasoning to taste, and rub through a fine wire or hair sieve. Whip the cream slightly and whisk the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, add the mixture lightly to the chicken puree, put in the truffle cut into dice, and |- fill some well-buttered china or paper ramakin cases with the mixture. Bake in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes, and serve the hot sauce in a sauce-boat.

Time. — To prepare and cook, about i hour. Average Cost, 23. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for i dish.

1194.— CHICKEN, SOUFFLE OF. (Fr.— Souffle de Volaille.) Ingredients. — £ a Ib. of raw chicken, i£ ozs. of butter, the whites of 2 eggs, the yolk of i egg, £ of a pint of cream, pepper and salt, % a pint of Bechamel sauce (see Sauces No. 178).

Method. — Shred the chicken meat finely, or pass it through a mincing machine, then pound it in the mortar with the butter and yolk of egg, season with salt and pepper, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Whip the cream slightly and whisk the whites of egg stiffly, and add them lightly to the chicken puree. Place in a well-buttered souffle (plain Charlotte) mould, cover with a buttered paper, and steam gently from 50 to 60 minutes. Or, fill up several small dariol moulds, and steam for about 25 minutes. Serve with the white sauce poured over, and, if liked, decorate with finely-chopped truffle. Time. — 60 to 90 minutes. Average Cost, 43. to 45. 6d. Sufficient STOCKING THE FOWL HOUSE. — In selecting birds for stocking a fowl-house care should be taken that they are not more than two years old. The surest indications of old age in fowls are the fading of the comb and gills from brilliant red to a dingy brick colour, general paleness of plumage, brittleness of the feathers, length and size of the claws, and the ragged and corny appearance of the scales of the legs and feet. The selection will be dependent upon the purposes for which the fowls are to be kept, and the accommodation for keeping them. If the poultry is designed for the table, Dorkings, Game, Houdans are good breeds for that purpose. If for laying, Minorcas, Orpingtons, Wyandottes, Hamburgs, Leghorns, Polish and Spanish fowls are suitable. If both poultry and eggs are the object, Brahmas, or Langshans, and Brahmas crossed with one or other of the above breeds, will be found the best. If the object be the breeding of birds for exhibition the fancier will choose, the particular bird he desires for competition. H95.—CHICKEN, SPATCHCOCK. (Fr. Poulet a la Crapodine.) Ingredients. — i chicken, butter, salt and pepper. Tartare, piquante, or other sharp sauce (see Sauces) 4 to 5 thin slices of bacon. Method. — Split the bird in half, cutting it through the back only, cut off the legs and wings at the first joints, and arrange in a flat form by means of skewers. Brush over with warm butter, season with salt and pepper, and grill over or in front of a clear fire for about 15 minutes. Turn frequently, brush over with butter, and when done

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season lightly with salt and pepper. Remove the skewers, dish up, garnish with fried bacon, and serve with it in a sauce-boat one of the above-named sauces.

Time. — About 25 minutes. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45. Sufficient 1196.— CHICKEN, TIMBALES OF. (Fr.— Petites Timbales de Volaille.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of raw chicken, i| ozs. of butter, the whites of s, the yolk of i egg, £ of a pint of cream, pepper and salt, £ a pint nee (see Sauces, No. 178), macaroni.

Method. — Boil the macaroni in salted water until tender, cut it across into rings about |th of an inch in thickness, and with the rings line 1 well-but tnvd timbale moulds. The rings should be arran. evenly as possible; and the somewhat tedious task may be facilitated;ig the point of a lardi •«> fix them in position. IV the chicken p; !or " Souttle of Chicken," Kb Fill I he prepared mould with the mixture. Steam the timbales 25 to 35 minutes, arrange neatly on a hot dish, pour the sauce round, an Time. — i hour Average Cost, 35. oxl. to 4s.;d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 >ns.

BITTING. — Some hens are very capricious as regards sitting; they will make a great fuss and keep pining for the nest, but when they arc jvrmitti-d to sit will remain just long enough to.ul.llc iiion they will leave them. To guard against this annoyance it will be found to be a:>ply the hon with sonic hard-boiled eggs • i| she sits upon them for a reasonable time and seems ii, nn. it will then be safe to supply her with proper eggs. 1197.— CURRIED CHICKEN. (Fr.— Kari de Volaille.) Ingredients. — i chicken, £ of a pint of white stock, 2 ozs. of butter, 'spoonful of curry-powder, i dessertspoonful of flour, i teatul of curry paste, i dessertspoonful of desiccated or cocoanut, i dessertspoonful of chutney, i tablespoonful of lemon-juice, •oonfuls of cream, i apple, i onion, salt, cooked rice. Method.— Divide the chicken into neat joints, and fry them li in hot butter. Remove them from the stewpan, put in the onion minced, fry for 2 or 3 minutes without browning, add the flour and curry powder, stir and cook for a few minutes, then pour in the stock and stir until boiling. Replace the chicken in the stewpan, add the curry-paste, cocoanut, chutney, sliced apple, lemon-juice, and salt to • and cook very gently for about J of an hour if the bird >r until the flesh of an older bird is tender. Arrange n< add t:, and strain over the chicken. The rice should be ham! tely.

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Time. — From i^ to if hours. Average Cost, 45. 6d. Sufficient for 5 FOWLS AS FOOD. — The fine and delicate flavour of the flesh of birds, which are included under the category of " poultry," readers it alike palatable and nourishing for both the delicate and the robust, and by the skill of the cook it can be served at the table boiled, roasted, fried, fricasseed, hashed, hot, cold, whole, dismembered, boned, broiled, in the form of cream or souffles, or as pies to please every taste, and adapted to suit the most delicate digestion. 1198.— CURRIED CHICKEN OR FOWL. (Fr.— Poulet a Tlndienne.) Ingredients. — Remains of cold roast chickens or fowls, i onion, i apple, i tablespoonful of curry-powder, i tablespoonful of flour, i dessertspoonful of lemon-juice, i teaspoonful of red currant jelly or chutney, 2 ozs. of butter, |- of a pint of stock, salt, cooked rice. Method. — Divide the chicken into neat joints, simmer the bones and trimmings in stock or water for i£ or 2 hours, then strain and use. Slice the onion, fry it lightly in the hot butter, add the flour and curry-powder, stir over the fire for 2 or 3 minutes, pour in the stock, and bring to the boil, stirring all the time. Now add the sliced apple, chutney, and salt to taste, cover, and simmer gently for \ an hour, then put in the pieces of chicken and let them remain in the sauce lor 30 minutes, but the stewpan must stand where the contents will be kept hot without boiling. When ready, arrange the chicken neatly add the lemon- juice to the sauce, season to taste, and strain over the chicken. Rice should be served separately.

Time. — About i£ hours, after the stock is made. Average Cost, 2S. pd. to 33.

AGE AND FLAVOUR OF CHICKENS. — The flesh of young chickens is the most delicate and easily assimilated of animal foods, which makes it especially suitable for invalids and persons whose digestion is weak. Few animals undergo so great a change with regard to the quality of their flesh as the domestic fowl. When quite young, cocks and hens are equally tender, but as chickens grow older the flesh of the cock is the first to toughen, and a cock a year old is fit only for conversion into soup. A hen of the same age affords a substantial and palatable dish. This rule respecting age does not apply to capons, which, when well-fed and well-dressed for the table, are surpassed by few animals for delicacy of flavour. Even when three years old the capon is as tender as a chicken, with the additional advantage that his proper chicken flavour is more fully developed. The above remarks are applicable only to capons naturally fed and not crammed. The latter process may produce a handsome-looking and heavy bird, but when tested by cooking its inferiority will be only too apparent. As a rule small-boned and short-legged poultry are generally the more delicate in colour, flavour and fineness of flesh.

1199.— CHICKEN, VOL-AU-VENT OF. (Fr.— Vol-auVent de Volaille.) Ingredients. — i Ib. of puff paste, £ a pint of Bechamel or Supreme sauce (see Sauces), 6 ozs. of cooked chicken, 2 ozs. of cooked ham or tongue, 2 truffles, 6 mushrooms, salt and pepper, aromatic spice. Method. — When the paste has had 6 turns, roll it out to about f- of an inch in thickness, and cut it into either a round or oval form, as may be desired and place on a baking tin. Brush over the top of the

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paste shape with beaten egg, make an inner ring, cutting the paste to about half its depth, and bake in a quick oven. Meanwhile, cut the chicken and ham into dice shapes or small cubes, cut the mushrooms and truffles into small slices, stir the whole into the hot Bechamel sauce, season with salt, pepper and aromatic spice, and make thoroughly hot. When the vol-au-vent case is sufficiently baked, remove the lid, scoop out the soft inside, fill with the prepared ragout, put on the cover, and serve hot.

Time. — £ of an hour, after the paste is made. Average Cost, 43. 6d. to 5s. Sufficient for 6 to 8 persons.

THE M: inning properly at the end of September fowls reij:i itself a disease, it (requcntK -ubsequent ill s, as Parish's Food and cod liver oil, or a small quantity of:r<m in the drink:::; w.ii.-r; n • irishing food with abundance ot green food should be given the feathers, especially the head feathers, not come out. the dead feathers may be extracted with a pair of tweezers. A strong bird will usually get over his moulting in about three weeks. 1200.— CHICKEN ROAST, STUFFED WITH HERBS.

(Fr.— Poulet roti aux Fines Herbes.) Ingredients. — I chicken, i } ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i tablespoonful of shredded onion, 2 tablespoon fu Is of shredded carrot, i teaspoonful each of chopped parslex 1. tarragon, or other herbs which are liked, I glass of wl J of a pint of stock. For the forcemeat: 2 tablespoon fu Is of breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful each of finely chopped allots, chervil and tarragon, the liver of the chicken, i oz. of oiled butter, salt and pepper.

Method. — Remove the gall bladder, wash and chop the liver, finely, and add to it the breadcrumbs, parsley, shallots, chervil, and tarragon, with a liberal seasoning of salt and pepper. Add sufficient oiled butter to moisten the whole, stuff the crop of the bird with the preparation, secure the opening, and retruss the bird. Roast the chicken in front of a clear fire, or in a moderately hot oven for about 50 minutes basting frequently. Meanwhile melt the remaining i$ oz. of butter in a stewpan, try the onion and carrot slightly, add the flour, and cook gently until lightly browned. Put in the stock, stir until boiling, i to taste, add:' and about a teaspoonful of parsley, I and tarragon mixed, simmer gently for ^ an hour, then strain. with a little of the sauce poured round, and send the remainder to table separately.

Time. — To roast the chicken, about 40 minutes. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 43. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable at any i20i.— CHICKEN WITH MACARONI. (Fr.— Poulet £ la Milanaise.) Ingredients.— i chicken, j of a Ib. of macaroni, £ of a pint of tomato sauce (see Sauces, No. 281), j of a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244,

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3. few drops of lemon- juice or Tarragon vinegar, salt and pepper. Method. — Boil the chicken until half cooked in stock, or, if this is not at hand, in water flavoured with vegetables. Put the macaroni into salted boiling water and cook rapidly for 15 or 20 minutes, until it is perfectly tender but not broken, then drain well, and cut into short lengths. Heat the sauces in a stewpan, and when the chicken is sufficiently cooked, cut it into pieces convenient for serving, and put them into the sauce. Add the macaroni, salt, pepper, lemon-juice or vinegar to taste, and simmer very gently for £ of an hour. Arrange the macaroni to form a bed in the centre of a hot dish, place the chicken on the top.of it, strain the sauce over, and serve.

Time. — From i to i|- hours. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 45. Sufficient THE DISEASES OF FOWLS AND THEIR CURE. — Fowls are liable to various diseases; the most dangerous of these is, perhaps, roup, a highly contagious disease. It commences with a cold, and is characterized by a thick discharge from the nostrils and eyes, which, unless the bird is at once isolated, will infect the other birds, especially through the medium of the drinking water. The vessels which contain it should be thoroughly disinfected. The nostrils and eyes of the isolated bird should be well washed out with warm water, or warm milk and water, and disinfectants, as Condy's Fluid, kabarrague's solution of chlorinated soda, one part to two of water, and Gamjees' Roup Pills, may he administered with advantage. When recovering, tonics, as Parish's Food and cod liver oil, will be serviceable. Fresh air and good ventilation in the fowl houses are the best preveutatives of this dangerous disease.

1202.— CHICKEN, WITH RICE AND TOMATOES.

(Fr. — Poulet au riz a la Milanaise.) Ingredients. — i chicken, larding bacon, 2 onions, 2 carrots, i turnip, all thickly sliced, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay -leaf), 10 peppercorns, stock, J of a pint of tomato puree, 3 ozs. of grated Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper.

Method. — Truss the chicken, lard the breast in close rows, and wrap it in greased paper. Put the vegetables, herbs and peppercorns into a stewpan, add sufficient stock to nearly cover them, and place the chicken on the top. Cover closely, cook gently for about i£ hours, adding more stock to replace that which boils away. Wash and blanch the rice, cook it in good stock until tender and dry, then stir in the tomato puree and cheese, and season to taste. Put the chicken in a hot oven for a few minutes, to crisp the bacon, then serve with the rice either as a border or formed into timbales.

Time. — About if- hours. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 43. 6d. Sufficient OBSTRUCTION OF THE CROP. — This ailment is commonly caused by weakness or greediness. To cure it, the crop should be kneaded to remove its contents; if no good effect is produced, warm water should be poured down the throat, and another attempt made. The crop should if possible be emptied through the mouth, and a dessertspoonf'jl of castor oil administered. If the crop cannot be emptied by kneading, it will be necessary to cut it, taking care that the incision avoids the large blood vessels, and is sufficiently large to admit a finger or teaspoon for the removal of the obstruction. A fine needle and horsehair or fine silk should be used to stitch up the crop, care being taken to stitch together first the inner skin and then the outer skin of the crop. Sometimes a diamond-shaped piece is cut from the crop before sewing it up, to contract the crop if it is permanently loose.

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RECIPES FOR COOKINV, Pol'LTRY 693 1203.— CHICKEN, WITH SUPREME SAUCE.

(Fr.— Supreme de Volaille.) Ingredients. — i chicken, f of a pint of Supreme sauce (see " Sauces " No. 26 j), white stock, garnish of truffles or maccdoine of vegetaM Method.- -Stc\v the chicken in stock until tender, then divide it into. put the ha* - md pile the remainder on a hot di.sli. Pour the sauce over, garnish with truffles or mi\ s and Time.— From i to i| hours. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45. Sufficient Th* malady called - turniM - among tans-birds is known « th* •• turn " »n fowb. In both cavs imiUr— overfeeding and want c; fall from its perch, and onleM assistance be speedily *ivm will s«xm die. The veins of the palate should be opened, and a few drops of a mixture composed of six parts of sweet nitre and one part of ammonia poured down the throat I204.-CHICKEN WITH ITALIAN SAUCE.

(Fr.— Poulet a la Italienne.) Ingredients. — I chicken, trussed for roasting, j of a pint of 1 sauce (see Sauces). macedoine, or vegetable mixture: carrot, turnip /. of butter, pepp- Ifr, chopped p..

Method. Kn.ist tin- cliii km in front ir fire, or in a moderate,ind cut it into pieces convenient for serving. Cut the $-inch diameter cutler into rounds about in tin; oil them Melt the butter in a stewpan. put in tl Mes, season with ] over the fire until the 1 absorbed.

the chicken in the centre of a hot dish, str.iin the hot sauce over, group l>les round the base, sprinkle over them the chopped p. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 43. Sufficient for 3 or 4: MSCASKS IK Fowi*.- Cutaneoosdisflases are acquired by fowb kept in unvrntilattd and dark birds are lodged in br ! y the falling of tbe leathers from the head and neck. By removinf the causes a cure u !•:!• • t«,i.

1205. -CHICKEN, COLD, GARNISHED. (Fr.-Chaudfroid de Volaille.^ Ingredients. 2 mid l.« lsy i pint <if 1 (No. 175) or 0. 2U). i a pint of ii^pu- jelly, I oz. of ily.

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Method. — Divide the chickens into pieces of convenient size, skin and trim them neatly. Dissolve the gelatine, previously soaked, in a little cold water, add it to the warm Bechamel sauce, stir until cool, then pour it carefully over the pieces of chicken. Decorate with fancifully-cut pieces of truffle and chili, and when the sauce is quite set, coat with cold liquid aspic jelly, pouring it carefully over each piece with a tablespoon. Arrange in a pyramidal form on a bed of dressed salad, and garnish with slices of cucumber, tufts of endive and cubes of aspic; or the aspic jelly may be coarsely chopped. Time. — i hour. Average Cost, 8s. to 93. Sufficient for 9 or 10 Note. — Considerable variety may be introduced by using tomato, Espagnole, and green chaud-froid sauces (see Sauces), the combination of green and white, and brown and red being particularly effective.

DIARRHCEA AND DYSENTERY. — Sudden alteration of diet, superabundance of green food, and other causes, produce this complaint among fowls. In its less acute form a little arrowroot or ground rice mixed with water and made into a pill and followed by a diet of boiled rice, to which a little powdered chalk has been added, will be found a good remedy. An excellent prescription is composed of 5 grains of chalk, 5 grains of rhubarb, 3 grains of cayenne pepper made into a pill, with half a grain of opium added in severe cases. Chlorodyne, 2 to 6 drops in a teaspoon of warm water is used with good results. Dysentery, if acute, is difficult to cure, and the more merciful course is to kill the bird and bury it with disinfectants. 1206.— DUCK, BRAISED WITH CHESTNUTS.

(Fr.— Canard Braise a la Frangaise.) Ingredients. — i duck, i pint of stock, £ of a pint of Espagnole sauce (see Sauces No. 244), i glass of port wine, i dessertspoonful of red currant jelly, i Spanish onion, i Ib. of chestnuts, larding bacon, 2 ozs. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs. For the mirepoix, or foundation: 2 onions, 2 carrots, i small turnip, 2 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 allspice, 2 cloves> salt and pepper. Method. — Boil the chestnuts and remove the skins, cook the Spanish onion in stock or water until tender, chop both finely, season with salt and pepper, add the yolks of eggs, ana use these for stuffing the duck. Truss the duck and lard it neatly Put the butter and sliced vegetables into a large stewpan, place the duck on the top of them, cover and fry gently for 20 minutes. Next add as much of the stock as will £ cover the vegetables, and the remainder as that in the stewpan boils away. Cover the duck with a buttered paper, put on the lid, and cook gently for about 2 hours, or until the duck is perfectly tender. Heat the Espagnole sauce, add to it the wine and jelly, and season to taste. Remove the trussing strings, and put the duck in a hot oven for a few minutes to crisp the bacon. Serve with a small quantity of the sauce poured over, and the remainder in a sauce-boat.

Time.— About 2 hours. Average Cost, 53. to 55. 6d. Sufficient, for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from August to March.

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1207.— DUCK, BRAISED WITH TURNIPS.

(Fr.— Canard a la Nivernaise.) Ingredients. — i duck, i pint of good stock, larding bacon, | a glass of sherry, 3 young turnips, salt and pepper, mirepoix as in the preceding recipe, glaze.

Method. -Truss and lard the duck, and braise it as directed in the foregoing recipe. When cooked, brush over with warm glaze, and ci thelardoons in the oven. Strain the stock and reduce it by rapid boiling until about half the liquid remains, then add the sherry, and season to taste. Have ready the turnips cut into dice, and cooked until u-mkr. I'lacc the duck on a hot dish, arrange the turnips in groups, pour the sauce round, and serve.

Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, as. 6d. to 55. Sufficient, for 4 to 5 persons. Seasonable from August to March.

THE DUCK (Fr..-.i«arrfl.-Thi» wrIMtnown bird is a member of the sub- family Xmrttor, mod to allied to the swans. ge«c. guillemots and gulb. Then M species of ducks which are found eitr:. ited over most parts of the world. Their food is partly v«getable. partly il. consisting of injects, larvae, and, in the- dorn«-sticated state, of corn, mail*, etc.. worm* and »me specie* are migratory, flying in the summer season from warmer to colder regions. Their nests are constructed on the ground among the rushes on the margins of lakes or in marshy placet. The male duck, or d. gushed from the female by its •••r size, the recurved four middle feathers of its tail "i« female being of a more sombre tint, but during the moulting season in:ubk the ducks. Ducks are gregario; «t>itv harsh quack of the duck is due to the curiously twisted conformation of the •a or windpipe.

1208.— DUCK, FILLETS OF. (/•>.— Filets de Canard a la Bigarade.) Ingredients. — i good duck, | a pint of Bigarade sauce, No 226 (see Sauces), 2 small oranges, salad-oil, potato border, salt and Method. — Sin. duck, and roast it in front of a fire or in a moderate oven until tender. I\vl the oran.L-rs. sr: into thru natural divisions, remove the pith and pips,.is; water in a covered basin or 1 and before ii them a teospoonful of salad-oil. Remove the breast from the duck, cut it into long fillets, arrange them neatly o each other on a nk;icd potato border, and pour th« sauce over. Tile the compote of oranges in the centre, and serve. « >f the duck shoald be put aside, and afterwards con.Inn or hash (see recipes for same).

Time. — To roast the duck, from 40 to 60 minutes, accordr i;c Averags Cost, 43. to 6s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. * the table, its flesh being wV t very handsome bird, and is chiefly kept a* an >nd the grounds of private mansion*. Its prevailing colour is black blue steel sheen on its

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1209.— DUCK, HASHED. (Fr.— Canard au Vin Rouge.) Ingredients. — i Cold roast duck, i pint of stock, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i orange, i onion, a glass of claret, salt, and pepper.

Method. — Divide the duck into pieces (joints) suitable for serving. Chop the onion finely, fry it in the butter, add the flour, stir over the fire until brown, then pour in the stock, stir until it boils, and simmer for 10 minutes. Cut the orange rind into very thin strips, add them with the juice of the orange, the wine and the duck to the sauce, season with salt and pepper, and simmer very gently for \ an hour.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 33. 6d., to 45. 6d. Sufficient, allow i duck for 4 persons. Seasonable from August to March.

VARIETIES OF DUCKS.— Among the numerous species and varieties of ducks are the Canvas-back duck, a native of North America, and highly esteemed for the table; the Muscovy-duck, an erroneous form of musk-duck (Cairina moschata), a native of South America, but domesticated in Europe. It is larger than the common duck, and possesses a peculiar musky smell. The Shoveller duck, an inhabitant of our island in the winter, is chiefly remarkable for its long bill and hooked widelybroadened tip. The plumage of the back is brown, with green on the head and neck. Its egg5 are dirty-white tinted with green. The Pintail, which takes its name from the long tapering form of the tail of the male bird, inhabits Britain and the South of Europe in winter. The plumage of the pintail is brown, with white and black Hues, and its flesh is palatable. 12 io.— DUCK AND RED CABBAGE. (Fr.— Canard au Chou rouge.) Ingredients. — Remains of 2 or 3 cold ducks, £ a red cabbage, 2 ozs. of butter, good gravy or stock, i tablespoonful of vinegar, salt and Method. — Wash and drain the cabbage, and shred it finely. Heat the butter in a stewpan, put in the cabbage and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, cover closely, and cook gently for i hour, adding a little gravy or stock if necessary to prevent burning. Divide the ducks into neat joints, place them in a stewpan with just sufficient hot gravy or stock to barely cover them, put on a close-fitting lid, and allow the stewpan ?to stand just below simmering point for nearly i hour.

When ready, add the vinegar to the cabbage, turn it on to a hot dish, arrange the duck neatly upon it, and serve with a little good gravy, either poured round or handed separately.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the ducks.

Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable, September to January.

AMERICAN MODE OF CAPTURING DUCKS. — Various methods of capturing ducks are employed on the rivers in America. Sometimes half a dozen artificial birds are fastened to a little raft, so weighted that the sham birds squat naturally in the water, and attract the notice of a passing flock of the wild ducks, which fall an easy prey to the fowling-piece of the hunter, concealed in ambush. Another method is pursued in the winter time by the fowler of the Delaware when the water is covered with rubble ice. He paints his canoe entirely white, lies down in the bottom of it, and floats with the broken ice; the ducks being unable to distinguish between the colour of the canoe and that of the ice. As soon as the fowler recognizes by the quacking, fluttering, and whirring, of wings that he is in the midst of a flock he rises up suddenly, discharges his gun, and scatters a deadly leaden shower among the surprised birds.

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121 1. —DUCKS, ROASTED. (Fr.— Canards Rotis.) Ingredients. — 2 ducks, sage and onion stuffing No. 404 (see Forcemeats) £ a pint of stock, £ an oz. of flour, salt and pepper, apple sauce No. 316 (see Sauces).

Method. — Stuff the body of the ducks with the onion farce or stuffing and truss them as directed. Baste them well with hot fat, and roast 1hem in front of a clear fire or in a moderately hot oven for about i hour, basting frequently. When done, pour off the fat and if a thick gravy is preferred, brown the flour in the dripping-pan before adding the stock. Bring the gravy to boiling point, season to taste, simmer for i or 2 minutes, and serve in a sauce-boat. Time. — From i to i£ hours. Average Cost, 73. to 8s. Sufficient for 8 to 9 persons. Seasonable from August to March.

The short lees of the Anatidat or duck sub-family, from their backward posi; art of the body to preponderate, and produces the ungainly movrment which • «• duck when walking on land. Some species of ducks.1 to terrestrial habits than others, and among these is the summer duck of America (Dfi. stxmsa). This handsome bird usually rears her young in the holes of trees which overhang the water. When sufficiently strong the duckling! Knmbie to the mouth of the hole, bunch air with their little wings and feet outstretched, and drop into the water. If the t r, the mother carries them to it one by one in her bill, can-fully holding each so t injury. It has been noticed that when the tree is still furtli from a stream or pool th.- duck allow* her young to fall upon the grass and dry leaves beneath and afterwards leads them directly to the ••• lucks some are./. owing to some t appearance, as the bow-bill or hook-bill d ted shape of its bill, and the Penguin-duck, which waddles in an upright position, • ms resembles its namesake.

I2I2.-DUCK, ROUENNAISE STYLE. (Fr.- Canard a la Rouennaise.) Ingredients.— i Rouen " duck, 2 OTS. of but tor, i t a H< spoonful of chopped shallots, a bouquct-^arni (par >nful of lemon-juice, i glass of claret, | a pint of stock, i •t spoonful of flour. For the stuffing: the heart anil 1,;uls of breadcnn 1 of finely nion parlxuKd ami finely ili«>; of butter, salt and Method. -Remove tin-:;.dl M,:dd<-r from the liver, wash both and 1 hem finely. Add onion. nin^' of;,ui and i oz. of butter, }; Stuit i!ie duck with ion, secure the opening, and tni ozs. of butt* pan suffic;ge to luck, put in the duck and civ D fry until n the flour, let it 1 tir until add t! non-juice, season to taste,covcr closel en for al><:. or until tender. Joint strained Time. About i\ hours. Average Cost. d Sufficient

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for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from March to September, but to be obtained all the year round.

THE ROUEN DUCK, bred largely in Normandy, is a large and handsome variety of duck. Its plumage is somewhat sombre, and its flesh is darker and less delicate in flavour than the Aylesbnry duck, with which breed the Rouen duck is usually mated, the result being an increase of size and strength. These ducks abound in Normandy and Brittany, and duck-liver pates are a popular relish in those districts.

THE SHOVELLER-DPCK is characterized by its long hooked bill, with a broadened tip. Its head and neck are green, and the colour of its body brown, with white underneath. It inhabits Britain during the winter.

1213.— DUCK, SALMI OF. (Fr.— Salmis de Canard aux Olives.) Ingredients. — i duck (or remains of cold ducks), 12 stoned French olives, 1 1 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, f of a pint of stock, i mediumsized Spanish onion, fat for basting, salt and pepper.

Method. — Singe, draw, and truss the duck, slice the onion, and put it into a baking-tin; place the duck on the top, baste with hot fat, and roast in a moderate oven for \ an hour, basting frequently. In the meantime, melt the butter, stir in the flour, and cook over the fire until a brown roux or thickening is formed, then add the stock, stir until boiling, and simmer until required. When the duck is sufficiently roasted, remove the trussing string, cut the bird into small joints, add these with the olives to the sauce, season well, and simmer gently for about \ an hour. Return the baking-tin to the oven until the slices of onion are tender, then rub them through a fine hair sieve, and add them to the contents of the stewpan. Drain off every particle of fat, and add the sediment in the baking-tin to the sauce. When it is ready dish the salmi in the centre of a hot dish on a croute of fried bread, pour over the sauce, and the olives. Serve hot.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 45. to 53. Sufficient for 4 or 5 THE WILD DUCK. — In many parts of England the wild duck is to be found, especially in desolate fenny places where water is abundant. Wild ducks are plentiful in Lincolnshire, and are taken in the decoys, or ponds situated in the marshes, and surrounded with wood or reeds to prevent the birds which frequent them from being disturbed. The birds sleep in these ponds during the day, and as soon as the evening sets in the decoy-duck rises, for the wild ducks feed during the night. Now is the time for the decoy-ducks to entrap the others. From the ponds in different directions canals diverge, at the end of which funnel-shaped nets are placed. Along these the decoy-ducks lead the others in search of food. When they have gone a certain length a decoy-man appears, and drives the birds further on until they are finally taken in the nets. The London market is largely supplied from the Lincolnshire fens. The Chinese have a singular method of capturing wild ducks. A man having his head covered with an empty calabash wades in the water up to his chin, and approaches the place where the ducks are swimming. The unsuspicious birds allow the calabash to move among them at will. The man accordingly walks about in the midst of the game, pulls them by the legs under the water, and fixes the ducks to his belt until he has secured as many as he requires, and then moves off without the birds discovering the trick played upon them. This mode of duck-hunting is also practised on the Ganges, earthen vessels being used by the Hindus instead of calabashes.

The male of the wild duck is called a "mallard," and the young ducks "flappers." The time to try to find a brood of these is about the month of July among the rushes of the deepest and most retired parts of some brook or stream, where, if the old bird is sprung, it may be assumed that its brood is not far off. When once found flappers are easily killed, as they attain their full growth before their wings are fledged. The sport, therefore, more resembles hunting water-rats than shooting birds. When the flappers take wing they are then called wild ducks, and about the month of August they betake themselves to the cornfields, remaining there until disturbed by the harvest operations. The wild ducks then frequent the rivers early in the evening, and afford excellent sport to those who possess the patience to wait for the birds. To recognize a wild duck it is only necessary to look at its claws, which should be black.

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1214.— DUCK, STEWED WHOLE. (Fr.— Canard en Ragout.) Ingredients. — i duck, i pint of brown stock, i£ ozs. of butter, i}ozs. of flour, 2 onions sliced, 2 sage leaves, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper.

Method. — Roast the duck, or bake it in a good oven for 20 minutes, then place it in a stcwpan with the herbs and onions, and cook slowly for £ of an hour. Melt the butter, add the flour, and, when well browned, strain in the stock. Stir over the fire until a smooth sauce is obt then draw the stewpan aside, simmer gently for 20 minutes and strain. Serve the duck on a hot dish, pour over it some of the sauce, and send the remainder to table in a sauceboat.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45. 3d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from August to March.

I VIZARD OR WILD DL-CK (Fr. canard s»*vagt).—A*as bosckas is the original stock from which the numerous varieties of the domesticated duck have been derived. It is found throughout Europe, M a. The plumage of the male is metallic green on the head and neck, the latter being 1 with a collar of white; the body is of a dark chestnut colour, marked with black; th.it <>(:.1 dull brown hue. In the spring the plumage of the male begins to fad two months the brilliancy of his feathers disappears, so that the male bird is scarcely distinguishable from the female. Then the greens and the blues mod the browns begin to bud out again, and by October he is once more a gorgeous drake. It is a curious fact that domestication has seriously.»! character of the duck. In t!. the drake is a faithful !• devoting himself to one wife, but in the domestic sUtc he becomes a polygamist and owns a dozen uales are much more solicitous for their pro-cny in the wild state than when tame, Clings are molested she will buffet the transgressor with her broad wings, a:; vigorously with her stout beak. If her nest is searched for in the 1 -n< l will try by every means in her power to lure away the intruder, a (.,• to simulate lameness to encourage pursuit and capture. After being pursued for mite or so, the bird will fly up and make her escape.

:>-k was highly esteemed by theRoman- icy and flavour of its flesh, to which > were ascribed. Plutarch states that Cato preserved his household in health during a plague by dieting its members on roast duck.

12 15. -DUCK STEWED WITH GREEN PEAS.

(Fr.— Canard aux Petits Pois.) Ingredients. — Remains of cold roast ducks, i pint of brown sauce (see Sauces, No. 233), i pint of shelled peas, i sprig of mint, i lump Method. Parboil the peas with the mint and sugar, and drain well. the remains of the ducks into neat pieces, put them into the hot ^ e, add the peas, season to taste, and simmer very gently ng, add a few drops of lemon-juice.

Time. From.15 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, is., exclusive of the Sufficient lor 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from August to March. •:. (Fr. tarcelU) is the smallest of the Anatidat. or duck f.unilv. Its bill is.:•• of the male is brown, with A inter, and teal shooting is a favourite sport:•• numbers by means of decoys. The green i- winged teal of North America are handsome birds; and the Chine*. k, is especially noted for the bright tints of purple, green, white and dark brown, which wn also as the Scaup-duck, frequents our coasts in winter, and feeds

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1216.— DUCKLING, STUFFED. (Fr.— Caneton a la Rouennaise.) Ingredients. — i large " Rouen " duckling, i chicken liver, £ of a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces No. 233), 3 ozs. of breadcrumbs, i oz. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, -|- a shallot finely-chopped, \ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, £ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped thyme, or \ the quantity of powdered thyme, salt and pepper, nutmeg.

Method. — Blanch the chicken liver and the liver from the duckling, chop them finely, add the herbs, breadcrumbs, butter melted, a pinch of nutmeg, a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and bind with the yolks of eggs. Stuff the duckling, baste it well with hot butter or fat, and roast in a quick oven for about \ an hour, basting frequently. Then drain off every particle of fat, pour the hot brown sauce into the bakingtin, and continue the cooking until the duckling is tender; 15 or 20 minutes should be sufficient, and the duckling must be almost constantly basted during the time with the sauce. Serve on a hot dish, strain over a little of the sauce, garnish with orange quarters, and send the remaining sauce to table in a sauce-boat.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 45. 6d. to 6s. 6d., according to size and season. Seasonable from March to August.

THE EIDER-DUCK (Fr. eider} Somateria mollissima, supplies the useful " down " used for making coverlets and other purposes. It is obtained from the nests of the eider-duck, the female plucking from her breast the warm, soft elastic down to line her nest and cover over and keep warm the eggs which she has laid. Each female bird supplies about J a Ib. of down. The down is imported in the form of balls, weighing 3 to 4 Ib. The eggs of a pale green colour are five or six in number and two broods are produced each year. The eider-duck is twice the size of the ordinary duck, about 24-in. in length, and weighs some 7 Ib. The plumage of the male is white on the neck and back and black underneath the body, the crown of the head is deep black, and the sides of the head white. It has a green bill and green legs. The female is reddish-brown marked with black. Its wings have two white bands. The king eider-duck, common in Greenland, has a red beak and legs, and the male has a warty protuberance on the base of the upper bill. The chief habitats of the eider-duck are Greenland, Norway, Sweden, Iceland and the northern islands of Britain, where it frequents solitary rocky shores. It is also abundant on the coasts of North America. 1217.— DUCK, TO STEW WHOLE. (Fr.— Canard en Ragout.) Ingredients. — i duck, good stock, 2 ozs. of butter, i|- ozs. of flour, 2 onions sliced, 4 sage-leaves, 2 or 3 strips of lemon-thyme, salt and pepper, fat for basting.

Method. — Truss the duck, baste it well with hot fat, and cook it quickly either in front of a clear fire or in a hot oven until well-browned. Melt the butter in a stewpan, fry the onions brown, then remove them and sprinkle in the flour, and let it cook slowly until well-browned. Place the duck in a stewpan containing sufficient hot stock to barely cover it, add the fried onions, sage-leaves and lemon-thyme, cover closely, and simmer gently for \ an hour. When ready, strain and add £ of a pint of the stock to the blended butter and flour, stir until boiling, season to taste, and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Serve with a little

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RECIPES FOR COOKING 1'OULTRY 701 pound Over, and hand the -.•ar.iU-ly. Plainly l)oi h-d green peas should accompany this di>h.

Time.- About i hour. Average Cost, 38. c>d. to 45. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from March to August.

I.NSHIRR FENS. — The following method was former' j of Lincolnshire. The favourite haunts of the buds in th resorted were noticed, and a ditch was cut across the entrance to the most haunt. This ditch of a circular shape narrowed gradually from its entrai: i width. On each side of the ditch the banks of the lake w!• >se herbage, to enable the ducks to rest upon them. A ground, close to the edge on each side, the top of the p The poles then bent forward at the entrance to the ditch, and formed an li was 10 feet distant from the surface of the water; the arch was made to det as the ditch decreased in width, so that the remote end was not more th.i t The poles were placed about 6 ft. from each other, and connected with ot! thwise across the arch and fastened together. A net was thrown over all, and m •r 10 yards up the ditch, and afterwards strongly pegged t<> tinground. At the end of the ditch furthest from the entrance was fixed a " tun:: of hoops 1 8 in. in diameter, pi rr to keep it distended. On one side a number of reed fences, called irpose of screening the decoy-man from observation, aiv! -vl in the decoy might not be alarmed while he was driving those in the pipe. •• about 4 yards in length and 6 fret i l-rom the •• last shooting a person could not see the lake owing to the bend of the ditch, ai was then no further occasion for shelter. Except for these " shootings" the (owl that • about the mouth of the ditch would have been alarmed if the person driving the ducks alrea«l c been exposed, and would become so shy as entirely to forsake the place. 1218.— DUCK WITH CARROTS. (Fr.— Canard aux Carottes.) Ingredients. — Remains of cold ducks, 3 or 4 large carrots,^ a pint of sauce (see Sauces, No. 244 ), i oz. of butter, sugar, salMethod.— Boil the carrots in a small quantity ot • a a small piece IT until tender, then rub them through a fine sieve, season to. Cut the ducks into pieces < for serving, put them into the hot sauce, and let them simim; for | an hour. Place the puree of carrots on a hot dish, arrange tin- pieces of duck neatly on the top, pour the sauce rou: Time. About i hour. Average Cost, od., exclusive of t Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from August to March. >G AMD DUCKS.— The decoy-man on approaching the ditch, describr 1 t '-.. i • ••.i;. >'. • t •!.••;•':.•::•!.-: th, ID fMWVHlt the d -..-•.'.• (1 very silently a I*:>lc him to see if any fowls w.

..tch. If successful in his search flM decoy-man stopped, made a motion to his dog, and gave him a piece of cbeev the sagacious animal went directly to a hole through the reed fence, and the birds immediately flew water. The dog returned aloof the bank between the reed fences, and came us master at another hole. The master then gave his canine assistant something more to: and the dog repeated his rounds until the birds were attracted by his motions, and followed him into th. working" the durk.rther back, " working " the dog at different holes until his prey were suAThe man next commanded the doc to lie down under the fence, and going litch nearest to the lake, be took ofl his hat, and wav • ngv All the birds that were under the net could then ST. t those which ke. The former flew forwards; and the man ran to th<r tunnel n. When • net off from the en: •-. and taking the ducks put, ooc by

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1219.— DUCK, ROASTED, WILD. (Fr.~ Canard Sauvage Roti.) Ingredients. — i wild duck, £ a pint of Espagnole sauce, (see Sauces, No. 244), i glass of port wine or claret, the juice of a Jemon, watercress, salad-oil, salt and pepper.

Method. — Draw and truss the bird, and roast it in front of a clear fire or in a moderate oven for about 45 minutes, basting frequently. Make the sauce as directed, add to it the wine and lemon-juice, season to taste, and keep hot until required. Serve the duck on a hot dish, garnish with watercress, previously well washed, dried and seasoned with pepper and salad-oil, and send the sauce to table in a sauceboat.

Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 43. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from August to March.

DUCK'S EGGS. — All ducks are good layers if carefully fed and properly tended. Ducks when in good health usually lay at night or early in the morning, and one of the surest signs of indisposition among birds of this class is their irregularity in laying. The tint of the eggs laid depends chiefly upon the colour of the duck — light-coloured ducks laying white eggs, brown ducks eggs of greenish-blue, and dark-coloured birds producing the largest-sized eggs. When placing the eggs of other birds under a duck to be hatched, care should be taken that the eggs match those of the duck as nearly as possible, otherwise the duck may turn out of the nest and destroy the eggs which differ from her own in size and colour.

COOPING AND FEEDING DUCKLINGS. — Brood ducks should be cooped at some distance from the other birds. Just outside the coop should be placed a wide and flat dish of water, which must be frequently renewed. Barley or meal should be given to the ducklings as their first food. If the weather be wet the tails of the young birds must be clipped to prevent these draggling and causing weakness. The state of the weather and the strength of the ducklings will determine the period of their confinement to the coop. As a general rule a fortnight is sufficient, and the luxury of a swim may sometimes be permitted them at the end of a week. At first the ducklings should not be allowed to stay too long in the water, for they then will become ill, their feathers get rough, and their stomachs disarranged. In the latter case the birds must be closely cooped up for a few days, and bean-meal or oatmeal be mixed with their usual food.

FATTENING DUCKS. — Some duck keepers allow their ducks to wander about and pick up food for themselves, and they appear to fatten on this precarious living; but unless ducks are supplied in addition to chance food with a liberal morning and evening meal of corn or grain their flesh will become flabby and insipid. The simplest way to fatten ducks is to allow them to have as much substantial food as they will eat, especially bruised oats and pea-meal. No cramming is required, as thev will eat to the verge of suffocation. They should, however,be well supplied with clean water and allowed to have plenty of exercise.

1220.— FOWL, BOILED. (Fr.— Poulet Bouilli.) Ingredients. — i fowl, i£ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, | of a pint of stock, i onion, i carrot, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 white peppercorns, salt.

Method. — Truss the fowl for boiling. Have ready a saucepan just large enough to contain the fowl, and as much boiling stock or water as will cover it. Rub the breast of the bird with lemon, wrap it in a buttered paper, put it into the saucepan, bring to the boil,

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and skim well. Add the sliced vegetables, bouquet-garni, peppercorns and salt if necessary, and cook very gently until the fowl is tender. A young fowl should be ready to serve at the end of i hour, but an old bird may need twice that length of time. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a stcwpan, add the flour, cook for a few minutes without browning, pour in the stock (use some of the liquor in which the fowl was cooked if none other is at hand), and boil up, stirring all the time. Season to taste, and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the fowl is ready. Remove the trussing string, place on a hot dish, pour over the sauce, which must be thick enough to coat it, garnish with chopped truffle, parsley, or hard-boiled yolk of egg, and serve.

Time. — From i to 2 hours, according to age. Average Cost, 35. 3d. to 45. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

THE SPFCKLED OR SPANGLED H\MBI*RG. — There are two varieties of this fowl — a favourite with many fanciers— the " golden speckled " and the " silver speckled." The general colour of the former is golden or orange- yellow, each feather having a glossy dark brown or black tip. icicles of the cock, the wing-coverts, and on the darker feathers of the is yellow or orange-brown, the feathers are margined with black. The ground colour <>f iver speckled " bird is silver-white, with a tinge of straw-yellow, each feather being edged with a glossy black half-moon shaped mark. Both these varieties are very handsome, and the hens are good layers.

1 22 1.— FOWL, BOILED WITH OYSTERS.

(Fr.— Poulet aux Huitres.) Ingredients. — i fowl, 3 dozen oysters, J of a pint of Bechamel sauce (see S o. 178) £ a gill of cream, i oz. of butter, the yolks of 2 eggs, i blade of mace, salt and pepper.

Method. — Beard the oysters, place 2 dozen of them inside the fowl, and truss for boiling. Put the fowl with the mace and butter into an •11 ware fireproof stew-jar with a close-fitting lid. Place the ir in a baking-tin, surround with boiling water, and cook on the or in a moderate oven for 2\ hours, or until the fowl is perfectly:. Blanch the remaining oysters in their liquor, strain the liquor, pour it over the oysters, and put botl.ul required. When the fowl is sutik-imtly cook vr it to a hot dish, strain the liquor and -Mil it to the Ik-chamel sauce, and, when boiling, stir in the cream and ydks of eggs, previously Mended. Continue the stirring and ag until the sauce thickens, but it must not boil, or the eggs may, pour a little of the sauce over the fowl, add I their liquor to the remainder, and s. rve it in a sauceTime. A I. on!; hours. Average Cost, /s. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 6

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1222.— FOWL, BROILED, WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE.

(Fr. — Poulet Grille aux Champignons.) See " Chicken, Grilled, with Mushroom Sauce," No. 1166. 1223.— FOWL, CURRIED. (Fr.— Poulet en Kari.) See " Fowl, Hashed, Indian Style," No. 1231, also " Indian Cookery." 1224.— FOWL, HASHED. (Fr.— Hachis de Volaille.) Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowls, i pint of stock, i% ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Divide the fowls into neat joints and, when no stock is at hand, simmer the bones and trimmings for at least i hour, adding the usual flavouring vegetables. Melt the butter, fry the flour until lightly-browned, add the stock, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, put in the pieces of fowl, let the stewpan stand for at least \ an hour, where its contents will keep hot without cooking, then serve with the sauce strained over.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d. to 9d., in addition to the fowl. Sufficient, for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable at any time. BLACK SPANISH. — The real Spanish fowl is characterized by its uniformly black colour, burnished with tints of green, its peculiar white face, and the large development of its comb and wattle — the large high comb of the cock being erect — and blue legs. The Black Spanish fowl is an excellent layer, and its eggs are of a large size. It is, however, a bad sitter, and its eggs should therefore be placed in the nests of other varieties for hatching. It is a good bird for the table, although somewhat small. The handsome carriage and striking contrast of colour in the comb, face and plumage make the Black Spanish fowl an addition to the poultry yard. They are admirably adapted as a town fowl, and their flesh is esteemed.

1225.— FOWL, RAGOUT OF. (Fr.— Ragout de Volaille.) Ingredients. — i fowl, £ of a Ib. of ham or bacon cut into dice, 2% ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, i£ pints of stock, i onion finely-chopped, Method. — Divide the fowl into neat joints. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the pieces of fowl until nicely-browned, then remove and keep it hot. Fry the onion slightly, then sprinkle in the flour, cook slowly until well-browned, and add the stock. Stir until boiling, season to taste, replace the fowl, put in the ham or bacon, and cover closely. Cook very gently from i to i| hours, or until the fowl is tender, then serve with the sauce strained over.

Time. — About i| hours. Average Cost, 45. to 43. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or more persons, according to size.

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COLD COLLATION ENTREES.

i. Pigeon Pie. 2. French Raised Pie. 3. Raised Game Pie, with Aspic Jelly.

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1226.— FOWL, ROAST, GERMAN STYLE.

(Fr. — Poulet Roti aux Matrons.) Ingredients. — i fowl, veal farce, i Ib. of chestnuts, i Ib. of sausages, i pint of good stock, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, I lemon, salt and r. butter or fat for basting.

Method.- Slit the skins of the chestnuts, throw them into boilim:. cook them for 15 minutes, then remove both skins, and bak< until triKkr. \\ h lay a dozen aside, put the remainder into the body of the bird, and stuff the crop with veal forcemeat. Truss. and roast in front of a clear fire or in a moderately-hot oven for about i hour, basting frequent '. It the butter, fry the flour until the stock and stir until !>• Season to taste, add the remaining: its, and simmer; for 10 or 15 minutes. Serve garnished with fried sausage and slices of lennm. A the sauce to table s< Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 45. 6d. to 55. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable in winter.

THE COCHIN CHINA.— This familiar (owl, a native of Cochin China, now rtoiaintir poultry w.is. on the introduction of the first pair of thcv birdMOM "f ^ n-:i..irk.i! !•• 'i<f."v r ••:..; pottlt. v:, - '.': •. A. •...-\'vi »••.! ! v tS- I •:•• ' "••••u.om they bad been prevented at the Dublin Poultry Show of 1846. an immense sensation; the approaches to the bouse of a dealer who possessed some of tl. were blocked by brougham*, carriages and cabs. containing people cage; rt.it ion. Large sums were paid for the coveted birds, and guineas. the egg*. The reign i was, howrver, of short ungainly in appearance, but is.ID •,< the winter, and its buv i esteemed; tbe o\: ^h is inferior to that of the Dorking and son. TOSS breeding with other varieties it is much improved. 1227.— FOWL, ROAST, STUFFED. (Fr.— Poulet Farci roti.) Ingredients. — i fowl, vral forcei o. 396, bread sauce,: (sec ' md r.nu «-cs of ba Method. ^htly into tho crop of the t 1 roast in front of a fried rolls of bacon, and 1 gravy s< Time. Al-.ut i hour. Average Cost, 35. oxi. to 45. ul. Sufficient for 4 <>r 5 persons. Seasonable;nie.

v ME FOWL (Fr. coa If «>mAflf).— Thb bird, known for iti rugnadow UlspmHfan and kandfrom carl* age*. Plinv write.: - The gait of the cock n uanding; he walks with bead erect and elevated crest; alonrofafibir > the sky. raising at the same time his curved and <cythe-formed tail, and inspiring >u himself, that m ~t intrepid of animate.... They regulate the coodu. magistrates, and open or dote to them thrir own houses. They prescribe rwt or an i •»•••• lha Roman lone*; they command or prohibit battle*. In a word, they lord it over the masters of the ('.reeks as well as the Romans, " alectomancy." or divination by mis in the case of deciding the day on which a battle should ba f< orn was placed on the letter of each day in the week, turned face downwards; the sacred t luttlc WA* rr^i'ljti,1 The (,M-.-(1;n:: "f.-.,••.-.• f,«;.(-,,. K,.•••:;.:••.,; r tl • •. ';. • i -, • •. • r A •,... • • • j r • • • ••.-'••;. • i •T.I. f. •< !":•.••,;-!.;,-'<.,.,,,. f.v, K.I,., 1; h.ivc J kc •. •I I'.tti, httVWi:•• K-: ' • i" U: -: •: • - ••' • " "i" • • v, for your wives and children, A A

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1228.— FOWL STEWED WITH RICE. (Fr.— Poulet au riz.) Ingredients. — i fowl, 4 ozs. of rice, i quart of stock, 2 or 3 onions, 2 or 3 strips of celery, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper.

Method. — Truss the fowl for boiling, put it into a stewpan, or earthenware stew-casserole, with the cold stock; when it boils add the onions and celery in large pieces, and the herbs and peppercorns tied in muslin. Cover closely, and cook very slowly for i hour, then add the rice (previously well washed), salt to taste, and continue the gentle cooking until both fowl and rice are perfectly tender. The rice should absorb nearly all the stock. Before serving, remove the vegetables and herbs, season with salt and pepper, and place the fowl on a hot dish, surrounded by the rice.

Time. — From i£ to 2 hours. Average Cost, 35. 9d. to 43. 6d.

THE BEST FOWLS TO FATTEN, ETC. — The chicks most likely to fatten well are those first hatched in the brood, and those with the shortest legs. Long-legged fowls, as a rule, are by far the most difficult to fatten. The most delicate sort are those which are put up to fatten as soon as the hen forsakes them; for, as says an old writer, " then they will be in fine condition and full of flesh, which flesh is afterwards expended in the exercise of foraging for food and in the increase of stature; and it may be a work of some weeks to recover it, especially with young cocks." But whether you take them in hand as chicks or not till they are older, the three prime rules to be observed are— sound and various food, warmth and cleanliness. There is nothing that a fatting fowl grows so fastidious about as water. If water any way foul be offered him he will not drink it, but sulk with his food and pine, and you all the while wondering the reason why. Keep them separate, allowing to each bird as much space as you can spare. Spread the ground with sharp sandy gravel; take care that they are not disturbed. In addition to their regular diet of bruised corn, make them a cake of ground oats or beans, brown sugar, milk and mutton suet. Let the cake lie till it is stale, then crumble it, and give each bird a gill measureful morning and evening. No entire grain should be given to fowls during the time they are fattening, indeed the secret of success lies in supplying them with the most nutritious food without stint, and in such a form that their digestive mills shall find no difficulty in grinding it.

1229.— FONDU OF CHICKEN.

See "Chicken, Ramakinsof," No. 1186, and " Chicken, Small Souffle of," No. 1193.

1230.— FOWL, FRIED, WITH PEAS. (Fr.— Poulet Saute aux petits pois.) Ingredients. — The remains of i or 2 cold roast fowls, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, £ of a pint of stock, i pint of shelled peas, salt and Method. — Divide the fowl into pieces convenient for serving, and boil the bones and trimmings down for stock. Fry the fowl in hot butter until well-browned, then remove and keep it hot, and sprinkle in the flour. Brown slightly, add the stock, stir until boiling, and season to taste. Replace the fowl, cover closely, draw the stewpan aside where the contents will keep hot without cooking, and let it remain for £ an hour. Meanwhile boil and drain the peas, and season them with pepper. Serve the fowl arranged in a circle on a hot dish with the_

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sauce strained over and the peas piled in the centre, or, if preferred, serve the peas separately.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. to 2S. 9d. Seasonable from June to September.

1231.— FOWL, HASHED, INDIAN STYLE.

(Fr.— Hachis de Volaille a 1' Indienne.) Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast fowls, £ of a pint of curry, sauce, see Sauces, No. 241.

Method. — Divide the fowls into pieces convenient for serving, and when stock is needed, simmer the bones and trimmings for at least i hour in just as much cold water as will cover them. Make the sauce as directed, put in the pieces of fowl, and allow the stewpan to stand for about \ an hour where its contents will remain just below simmering point. Serve with boiled rice.

Time. — To re-heat the fowl, about £ an hour. Average Cost, <>;!., in addition to the chick 1232.— FOWL, INDIAN DISH OF. (Fr— Poulet a la Ingredients. — The remains of i or 2 cold roast fowls, 2 or 3 onions sliced, 2 or 3 ozs. of butter,* i tablespoonful of curry-p< salt, i lemon.

Method. — Divide the fowl into neat joints, score them, spread on a lit tit butter, sprinkle on a little salt and the curry-powder, and let stand lor about i hour. Heat the remainder of the butter, fry the onions brown, tlun remove and keep hot try the pieces ot lowl.;»nd when nicely-browned, pile them on the onions, and serve garnished with sliced lemon.

Time. — To fry, altogether, about 30 minutes. Average Cost, exclusive of the fowl, 8d. Seasonable at any time.

1 233. -GALANTINE OF FOWL. (Fr.- Galantine de Volaille.) Ingredients. — i bom d fowl, i Ib. of sausage meat, ^ of a Ib. of ham or bacon, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 truffles, ^ an oz. of pistachio nuts 1, pepper and salt, aromatic spice.

Method. — Bone the fowl cut it down the centre of the back, spread it out on the table, season the flesh well, and distribute it in such.rly equal •. Spread on half. on the top place narrow strips of bacon, slices «s of in; -perse the nuts, season liberally with salt ami }" pi'<T, and cover with ihe remainder of the sausage meat. Roll

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up tightly, fasten securely in a cloth, and simmer gently in stock for about 2 hours. When cooked, tighten the cloth and press between 2 boards or dishes until cold. Before serving, glaze thickly and garnish with aspic jelly.

Time. — About 2 hours, to cook the galantine. Average Cost, 53. 6d. to 8s. 6d., according to size and quality of fowl. Sufficient for 6 or 7 1234.— GIBLET PIE. (Fr.— Pate aux Abatis a TAnglaise.) Ingredients. — i set of goose giblets, i Ib. of rump steak, i onion, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), puff or rough paste, salt, Method. — Wash the giblets, put them into a stewpan with the onion sliced, bouquet-garni, peppercorns, £ a teaspoonful of salt, cover with cold water, and simmer gently from i^- to 2 hours. Cut the steak into small thin slices, put a layer of them at the bottom of a pie-dish, add the giblets and the remainder of the steak in alternate layers, and season well. Strain the stock, season to taste, pour over the meat to about £ its depth, and add the remainder when the pie is baked. Cover with paste (see Veal Pie, No. 481), bake in a brisk oven for about £ an hour, then reduce the temperature, and continue the cooking for about 45 minutes longer. The appearance of the pie may be improved by brushing it over with yolk of egg either before baking or when it is 3 parts done. Before serving, pour in the remainder of the hot stock.

Time. — To bake, from ij to i£ hours. Average Cost, 2s., exclusive of the giblets. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

I235._GIBLETS, CAPILOTADE OF. (Fr.— Capilotade d'Abatis.) Ingredients. — Cooked giblets, to which may be added slices of any kind of cold poultry or meat, i large onion shredded, i carrot thinly sliced, 2 tablespoonfuls of coarsely chopped mushrooms, preferably fresh ones, salad-oil, i a pint of good stock, i dessertspoonful of flour, salt Method. — Put 4 or 5 tablespoonfuls of oil or an equal quantity of butter into a stewpan, and when it is thoroughly hot add the onion, carrot and mushrooms. Sprinkle in the flour, cook gently for about % an hour, then add the stock, and stir until boiling. Season to taste, put in the giblets, make thoroughly hot, and serve. In Italy, white wine is used instead of stock.

Time. — To re-heat the giblets, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 8d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons. Seasonable from September to February.

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1236.— GIBLETS, STEWED. (Fr.— Abatis d'Oie.) Ingredients. — i set of goose giblets, f of a pint of stock, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Prepare the giblets as directed in the recipe, wash them, cover them with stock and water, and stew them until tender. Remove the liver, neck and tendons as soon as these are sufficiently cooked, and continue to stew the gizzard until it can be easily pierced with a fork. Meanwhile heat the butter in a stcwpan, fry the flour brown, and, when ready, remove the giblets, and strain f of a pint of the stock on to the flour and butter. Stir until boiling, season to taste, put in the giblets, and when thoroughly hot, serve.

Time.— About 2 hours Average Cost, iid. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable, September to February.

1237.— GOOSE, HASHED. (Fr.—Ragout d'Oie.) Ingredients. — Remains of roast goose, 2 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i pint of stock, 2 finely-chopped onions, 6 button-mushrooms or a fi-w fresh ones, 2 cloves, i blade of mace, 6 allspice, salt and pepper, croutons of frkd bread, apple sauce, No. 316.

Method. — Cut the remains of the goose into neat pieces. Fry the onions in the butter, when turning brown add the flour, stir over the fire until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then add the stock, and boil for 10 minutes. Add the goose, mushrooms, spices wrapped in muslin, and simmer very gently for $ of an hour. Arrange the pieces of goose neatly on a hot dish, remove the spices, season the sauce to taste, and pour it over. Garnish with croutons of fried bread, and serve with apple sauce.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 8d., exclusive of the goose. Seasonable from September to February.

THE GOOSE {Fr. oif). — This familiar bird is generally distributed over the world, being met with America, Lapland, Iceland, Arabia and Persia. There are many varieties, but not differ widely from each other; in England there is only one species, which is supposed to be breed. The best geese are those on the borders of Suffolk, and in Norfolk and Berkshire. but the largest flocks are reared in the fens of Lincolnshire and Cambridge. Geese thrive best where they have an easy access to wat. - ties are annually sent to the London market. The period when the goose is at its greatest perfection for the table is when it has just acquired its full growth.UK! h.is not I-.--M:-. The best time for green geese is from the second week ition of the Michaelmas goww to Queen Elizabeth, who is said to have chanced to dine on one at the table of aa English baronet, te news of the defeat of the Sp t: « reached her Majesty. In commemoration of this event she commanded the goose to make its appearance at table on every Michaelmas. 1238.— GOOSE, ROASTED. (Fr.— Oie Rotie.) Ingredients. — i goose, onion stuffing (see Forcemeats), f of a pint of Method. 1'ivp.ip- and m. oose, put the onion forcemeat it well with hot f.it, and cither roast or from 2 to 2^ hours, according to size and age. Baste fre-

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7io quently, and if the surface is not well browned, dredge with flour when the bird is |- cooked. Remove the trussing string, serve on a hot dish, and send the gravy and apple sauce to table in sauce-boats.

Time. — From 2 to 2,\ hours. Average Cost, from 6s. to 123., according to size. Sufficient for 10 or more persons, according to size. Seasonable from September to February.

THE WILD GOOSE.— This bird is sometimes called the " Grey-lag," and is believed to be the original of the domestic goose. The Gray-lag (Anser ferus) is a denizen of all the extensive marshy districts throughout the temperate regions of Europe. Northwards it ranges to the 53° of latitude, and southwards to the northern parts of Africa, and easterly to Persia. It is the legendary bird that saved the Capitol by its vigilance, and was valued accordingly by the grateful Romans. I239._GOOSE HAMS.

Ingredients. — i large goose, £ of an oz. of saltpetre, 2 ozs. of common salt, i oz. of coarse sugar.

Method. — Split the goose down the back, and rub in the saltpetre, salt and sugar. Let it lie in pickle 12 days in summer, 14 in winter. Rub and turn it regularly every day, then roll it in sawdust and smoke it.

Time. — 12 to 14 days. Average Cost, gd. to is. per Ib.

THE BRENT GOOSE. — This is the smallest and most numerous of the species of the geese which visit the British Islands. It makes its appearance in winter, and ranges over the whole of the coasts and estuaries, frequented by other migratory geese. A very large number of these birds annually resort to the extensive sandy and muddy flats which lie between the mainland and Holy Island on the Northumbrian coast, and are covered by every flow of the tide. This part of the coast appears to have been a favourite resort of these birds from time immemorial, where they have always received the name of Ware geese, possibly from the fact of their continually feeding on marine vegetables. The flesh of the Brent goose has an agreeable flavour.

1240.— GOSLING ROAST. (See To Dress a Green Goose.) 1241.— GREEN GOOSE, TO DRESS A. (Fr.— Oison Roti.) Ingredients. — i Goose, 3 ozs. of butter, pepper and salt to taste. Method. — Geese are called green until they are about 4 months old, and should not be stuffed. After the goose has been singed and trussed, put into the body a seasoning of pepper and salt, and the butter to moisten it inside. Roast before a clear fire for about |- of an hour, allow it to brown nicely, and serve with a brown gravy, and, when liked, gooseberry sauce. This dish should be garnished with watercresses.

Time. — About an hour. Average Cost, 43.. 6d. each. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable August to November.

THE EGYPTIAN GOOSE. — The Greek historian Herodotus calls special attention to this bird, which he stated was held sacred by the ancient Egyptians. Mr. Salt, the traveller, remarks: " Horus Apollo says the old geese stay with their young in the most imminent danger, at the risk of their own lives, which I have myself frequently witnessed. Vielpansier is the goose of the Nile, and wherever this goose is represented on the walls of the temples in colours, the resemblance may be clearly traced." The goose is also stated to have been a bird under the care of the goddess Isis. The Egyptian goose has been placed by the naturalist, Mr. Gould, among the birds of Europe; not from the number of half-reclaimed individuals who are annually shot in Britain, but from the circumstance of its occasionally visiting the southern parts of the Continent from its native country Africa.

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1242. -GUINEA FOWL, ROASTED. (Fr.— Pintade Rotie.) Ingredients. — i guinea fowl, bacon, fried breadcrumbs, bread sauce, Espagnole sauce, No. 244 (see Sauces), watercress, salad-oil, salt and •or.

Method. — Truss the bird, cover the breast with slices of fat larding bacon, and roast it in front of a clear fire or in a moderately hot oven for about i hour. When |- cooked remove the bacon, that the breast may brown.. drain, and dry the watercress, and season it with salt, pepper, and a little salad-oil. Serve on a hot dish, garnish with walcrcrcshand the fried breadcrumbs, bread sauce, and 1 Espagnole sauce sepai Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, from 48. each. Sufficient i»i THE GUINEA FOWL (Fr. pinUdt), called abo Pintado, is a genus of gallinaceous birds domesti:i*s to the some family as the pheasants. It is, as its name in;•> common in poultry yards, and bears some reso: '••-coloured, variegated with small white spots. Its head is ornamented w.th a li.t-'l; '. • i-mce or " casque." The wattles are prominent, those of the male I* red, and those of the female red. Its site is about the same as that of the common fowl, 4* are longer. TV •nations. Though domesticate* 1 and is apt to wander. The hoos lav abundantly, and its esjcs yellow-red spotted with dark brown. -h is not so white as that \\, and more resembles •• >ur. It is savoury and ea*y of digestion, and the guinea-fowl is in sea«»>n when game is out.

1243. -LARK PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Mauviettes.) Ingredients.; Ib. of rump bacon, i i of good stock. For the farce o;:.J>K -poonfulrrumbs. i table-spoonful of finely-chopped suet, i iablespoonful of fmelychonp or parboiled cluck. poonful of chopped mushrooms (preferably fresh ones), i dessertspoonful of finely-chopped y,£ of a teaspoonful of finr >n -rind, ^ of a teaspoonfulof powdered mix >od pinch of nutmeg, \ a teaspoonful'.fsjlt, { of a teaspoonfal of pepper, puff paste, the yolk of i Method.— Bone the larks and stuft them with the farce, cut the beef mull thin slices, and the bacon into strips. Put a layer «>: at the bottom of a pic « aigc the larks on the top, inter the remainder of the meat and > of bacon, season well with pepper and salt, \ fill with stock, and cover with the pa^ -vith yolk of egg, bake in a quick oven until the paste ha^ and Ixjcome set, then cook more slowly for about i hour. Before servin;:. add the remaining stock, pouring it carefully through the !i the centre of the pie. S iier hot or cold, but a little ic must be added to the stock if the pie led to be eaten in order that the gravy may form a jelly.

Time. — To ba -oi't i^ or i$ hours. Average Cost, 35. 6d. <*!. Sufficient for 6 or 8 persons. Seasonable from November

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1244.— LARKS, BROILED. (Fr.— Mauviettes Grillees.) Ingredients. — i dozen larks, i egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, croutes of toasted bread, butter.

Method. — Prepare the larks as directed in " Larks, Roasted," brush them over with beaten egg, and coat them carefully with breadcrumbs seasoned with a little salt and pepper. Broil over a clear fire for 10 minutes, and as soon as the breadcrumbs are set, brush them lightly over with oiled butter. Serve on croutes.

Time. — About 10 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 33. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable November to February.

1245.— LARKS, ROASTED. (Fr.— Mauviettes Roties.) Ingredients. — 12 larks, 12 small thin slices of bacon, 12 round or oval pieces of buttered toast, fried breadcrumbs, water-cress, salad-oil, lemon, butter or fat for basting, salt and pepper. Method. — Pick and singe the birds, cut off the feet, and remove the gizzards. Truss them in shape by means of a skewer, which should be long enough to hold six. Brush them over with hot butter or fat, cover each breast with a piece of bacon, and roast the birds before a hot fire for about 10 minutes, basting them constantly. Place each bird on a piece of toast, arrange them in a close circle on a hot dish, fill the centre with fried breadcrumbs", and garnish with cut lemons, and watercress seasoned with salad-oil, salt and pepper. Time. — About 10 minutes, to roast. Average Cost, from 2s. to 35. per dozen. Sufficient, 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from November to February.

1246.— LARKS STUFFED AND ROASTED.

(Fr. — Mauviettes Farcies et Roties.) Ingredients. — 8 or 9 larks, 8 or 9 very small rolls of crisply-fried bacon, 8 or 9 round or oval pieces of buttered toast. For the farce or stuffing: i oz. of warm butter, i tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped cooked ham or tongue, i large, finely-chopped fresh mushroom, or 4 small preserved ones, i dessertspoonful of finelychopped parsley, i very finely-chopped shallot, salt and pepper, egg, brown breadcrumbs, butter for basting, fried potato straws. Method. — Prepare the birds as in the preceding recipe, stuff with the prepared farce, coat with egg and brown breadcrumbs, truss and fix on a skewer, and roast for about 10 minutes before a clear fire. As soon as the coating becomes fixed, baste with hot butter, and repeat the process frequently. Place each bird on a piece of toast, dish them in a close circle, pile the potato straws in the centre, and garnish with the rolls of bacon. Serve with a boat of nicely seasoned gravy.

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Time. — About 10 minutes to roast. Average Cost, from 2s. to 35. per dozen. Allow 2 to each person. Seasonable from November to February.

1247.— LARKS, SALMI OF. (Fr.— Salmis de Mauviettes.) Ingredients. — 2 dozen larks, i pint of good gravy or stock, i glass of port wine or claret, the juice of \ a lemon, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs of flour, 3 finely-chopped shallots, cayenne, salt, butter for basting, croute of fried bread.

Method. — Roast the larks before a clear fire or in a moderately-hot oven for 10 minutes, basting them frequently with hot butter. Fry the shallots in the butter, add the flour, cook over the fire until brown, put in the stock, and stir until boiling. Simmer for 10 minutes, add mr, lemon-juice, salt and cayenne to taste, put in the birds, and cook very gently for about 10 minutes. Dish the larks on the croute, strain the sauce over, and s< Time. — About 20 minutes, to cook the larks. Average Cost, 43.. Seasonable from November to February.

1248.— PICKLED POULTRY.

Ingredients. — 2 or 3 fowls, 4 quarts of w.<.< r,. Ib. of common salt, 4 ozs. of brown sugar, } of an oz. of saltpetre. Method. — Boil the salt, sugar, saltpetre and water together for £ an hour, skimming when r.. Pour the brine into an earthenware. and when quite cold put in Lhe fowls, and let them remain 2 or 3 days. This method of preserving poultry is employed in South Africa, Australia and other hot countries. The birds are killed, immediately scalded and stripped of their feathers, and at once immersed in brine. They arc usually conveyed to market in small barrels, 3 or 4 brim: packed closely together, and covered with brine. They arc best v, >cd as a curry or pilau.

1249.— PIGEONS, COMPOTE OF. (Fr.— Compote de Pigeons.) Ingredients.-, i£ ozs. of butter, $ of a Ib. of raw ham or bacon, 2 dd/rii Inn ton onions, i carrot, £ a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thymr. Kiy-lr.if, i clove, 6 peppercorns, i pint of good stock, I table>ur, salt and pepper.

Method. — Truss the pigeons for roasting, cut the bacon into dice,, and fry the whole in hot butter until well browned. Add t n boiling put in the herbs and the carrot and turnip, previously cut into dice. Cover closely and cook gently for

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nearly i hour. A few minutes before serving skim off all the fat, add the flour, previously blended with a little cold water, stir until the sauce reboils, season to taste, and simmer at least 10 minutes to cook the flour. Remove the trussing strings, cut the birds in halves, arrange.them neatly on a hot dish strain the sauce over, group the vegetables and bacon round the dish, and serve.

Time. — About i|- hours. Average Cost, from is. to is. 6d. each. SuffiTHE PIGEON (Fr. pigeon).— This familiar bird is widely distributed over the world, and some species are found even in the Arctic regions. The true pigeons or Columbidac are represented by the stock-dove; the ring-dove or cushat is the largest British species. Pigeons in general are arboreal in their habits, and build their nests in high places. Their food consists chiefly of grain The note of the pigeon is the well-kno'.vn " cooing." From the wild or rock pigeon the numerous domestic varieties are derived. The flesh of the pigeon is savoury, delicate and stimulating. 1250.— PIGEONS, CURRY OF. (Fr.—Kari de Pigeon.) Ingredients. — 2 pigeons, 2 ozs. of butter, f- of a pint of curry-sauce No. 241 (see " Sauces "), boiled rice.

Method. — Make the sauce as directed, strain, replace in the stewpan, and keep hot until required. Divide each pigeon into 4 quarters, fry them in hot butter until well-browned, and drain them free from fat. Put them into the sauce, let the stewpan stand for about ^ an hour, where its contents will remain just below simmering point, then serve with plainly-boiled rice handed round at the same time.

Time. — To cook in the sauce, about 4- an hour. Average Cost, pigeons, 2s. 6d. to 35. Sufficient for 4 or 5 persons.

THE PIGEON-HOUSE OR DOVECOTE. — The first requisite for keeping pigeons is the provision of a suitable and commodious habitation. This may be a wall-locker fixed to the side of a house, stable or other out-building, or a pole-locker, a barrel, or barrel-shaped structure, fixed upon a long pole. The latter kind of locker can be placed on a lawn, in a shrubbery or courtyard, as may be most convenient. Each pair of pigeons should have two holes or rooms to nest in, otherwise there will be the constant possibility of confusion among the inmates, the breaking of eggs and the destruction of the young birds. If pigeons be kept for the special purpose of pairing, breeding and rearing it will be preferable to keep the pigeons in a loft or outhouse adapted for that object. The nesting places should be from 12 in. to 18 in. in height and depth, and 2 ft. 6 in. in length for each pair of birds. Loose movable boxes may be used with advantage if floor-space is available.

1251.— PIGEONS, CUTLETS OF, WITH ESPAGNOLE SAUCE. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Pigeons a TEspagnole.) Ingredients. — 3 pigeons, 6 ozs. of liver farce or stuffing, No. 398, I pig's caul, •£ a pint of Espagnole sauce (see Sauces), i\- ozs. of butter, i white of egg, glaze, asparagus points, green peas, or other suitable Method. — Split the pigeons in half, remove all bones except the leg bones, leave the feet attached, but cut off the tips of the toes; season well, fold the skin underneath, form the birds into a nice plump shape, fry lightly on both sides in hot butter and press between 2 dishes until cold. Wash the caul in salt and water and dry well before using.

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Mask one side of the cutlets with the prepared farce, enclose them in thin pieces of caul, brush over with white of egg, cover with a buttered paper, and cook in a moderate oven for about 20 minutes. Brush the pigeons over with liquid glaze, arrange them in an almost upright position on a potato border, fill the centre with the prepared vegetable, pour the hot sauce round and serve.

Time. — Altogether 2 hours. Average Cost, 43. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or ASPECT OF THE PIGEOH-HOUSE. — The front of a pigeon-house should have a south-west aspect to shelter th>: lur. U from the cold of the north and east winds, which frequently occasion canker in the mouth it of young pigeons. If the birds are kept in a room a hole should be mad? in the roof of the building fitted with a trap-door, which can be opened or shut at convenience. A trap or cage Uo be provided for the pigeons to perch upon and look about them. This should be furnished ting-wires to protect the birds from the attacks of cats, which will frequently depopulate a whole dovecote. It is also necessary to secure the pigeons from rats and mice which suck the eggs. The platform or trap should be painted white and renewed as the paint wears off, white being a favourite colour with pigeons; it also serves as a conspicuous mark, enabling the birds to find their way home when flying abroad. The boxes should be painted in a similar manner. Lime and water will serve the purpose as well as paint.

THE NECESSITY or CLEAMUKKSS. — This is of the first importance in keeping the birds in good health and comfort. If cleanliness be neglected the pigeons, both young and old, will speedily be covered with filth and vermin. The pigeon-house should be cleaned once a week at least — more frequently if possible — and the floor covered with sifted gravel or fritty sand, which aids the digestion of the •l«l lime and salt should be provided for the formation of egfshell and the prev are liable. Pigeons are very fond of water, and should t»- 1.; with a w 1. often renewed; this serves them for a bath, cools and refreshes the md assists them to keep their bodies clear of vermin.

1252. PIGEONS, DUCHESS STYLE. (Fr.— Pigeons a la Duchesse.) Ingredients. — 3 pigeons (trussed), 4 or 5 ozs. of sausage meat, i [ ozs. of butter, \ a pint of Espagnole sauce rs No. 2.4;:>rcadcrumb.i trying-fat, t nish, peas, beans or maccdoine.

Method. — Cut the pigeons in halves, remove all the bones except the first bone of the leg, season well, and fold the skin under, shaping them as much as possible like plump cutlets. Fry them on both sides rifted butter, press until cold, then mask the upper surfao e-meat force. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs, fry until nicely ed in hot fat and drain well. Arrange neatly on a potato border, fill the centre with a dressed vegetable, pour the sauce round and serve. Time. — Altogether about \\ hours. Average Cost, from is. to is. 6d. each. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

.row*.— In breeding pigeons it to necewary to match a cock and hen and shut thrm ther, or place them near to each other, and in the course of a day or two there is hn> their mating. Various rules have been laid down for the purpose of assisting to distinguish the cock from the hen pigeons; but the masculine fur Hardness and action of the cock is generally kablc. th.it he is easily ascertained. The pigeon being monogamous, the male attaches and c-nhii.-x hunv-;: • • • mak. in.! th--.ut.. boMQl is • In •..i..u..i th- ftdettty..« th- dove to it,;>roverbial. Under the age of six months young pigeons are termed •• squeakers," «n.l then In-Kin t«. Ur-.l whru pr-.vrlv in ui.u;.-.! Hi.-ir OMrttUp Kttd th- wtfl-kl -w:i to] f VO*M iti the >t when acquired and commencing, are indications of their approaching union. Nestlings, 1 by cock and ben, are termed " squabs." aod are at that age sold and used sh » far more delicate than that of older birds. The dovebome pigeon is said to breed. when well supplied with food. At all events, pigeons of anr healthy and well-estabmay be depended upon to breed eight or ten times in the year, whence it may readily be conceived bow large are the numbers that may be raised.

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1253.— PIGEONS, GRILLED. (Fr.— Pigeons Grilles.) Ingredients. — 2 or 3 Bordeaux Pigeons salad-oil or oiled butter, salt Method. — Split the birds down the back, flatten them with a cutletbat, and skewer into shape. Brush over with oil or butter, season with salt and pepper, and grill over or in front of a clear fire from 15 to 20 minutes, turning frequently. Serve with tomato, piquante, brown, mushroom, or other suitable sauce.

Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. each, THE CARRIER PIGEOX. — Of the various varieties of pigeons, the carrier, with the exception of the blue-rock pigeon, is probably the earliest known of these domestic birds. Carrier pigeons were used to convey to distant parts of Greece the names of the successful competitors in the Olympic games. During the Crusades, when Acre was besieged by King Richard 1, his antagonist Saladin kept up a constant correspondence with the beleaguered garrison by means of carrier pigeons. The stratagem was, however, discovered when the crossbow of an English archer brought one of these feathered messengers to the ground, and Saladin's plans thus unexpectedly disclosed were frustrated. 1254.— PIGEONS, JUGGED. (Fr.— Civet de Pigeon.) Ingredients. — 4 pigeons, veal forcemeat, 2 or 3 ozs. of butter, £ a pint of strong beef stock, i oz. of flour, i finely-chopped onion, i glass of port or claret, salt and pepper.

Method. — Truss the pigeons as if for roasting, fry them in hot butter until well-browned, then place them in a stew-jar. Brown the onion in the butter, turn both into the stew- jar, add the stock, and a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and cover closely. Place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water, or, if more convenient, in the oven in a baking tin filled with water, and cook slowly for 2 hours. Knead the flour and i oz. of butter together, divide it into small pieces, and add these to the contents of the jar about ^ an hour before serving. Shape the forcemeat into small balls, egg-crumb them, fry them in hot butter or fat, and drain well. Add the wine 1 5 minutes before serving. Serve with the sauce poured over, and garnished with the fried forcemeat balls. Time. — About 24- hours. Average Cost, pigeons from is. to is. 6d. Sufficient, for 6 to 8 persons. Seasonable any time.

TUMBLER PIGEONS. — These pigeons are general favourites, and are found in most parts of the world. They derive their name from the inherited power they possess of turning somersaults in the air. The Tumbler pigeon is characterized by its full breast, smooth round head, thin neck, comparatively short beak, and unfeathered legs and feet. The flight and tail feathers are moderately long. The iris of a perfect bird should be a pearl-white. In the colour of its plumage and marking there is great variety. The Almond tumbler is one of the most beautiful of these birds. Highlybred birds will attain a high elevation in the air, and there exhibit their peculiar powers. There are numerous varieties of Tumbler pigeons, as the Cumulet or Volant, Long- faced, Whiteside, Muffled, Beard, Baldhead, etc. There are also many varieties of foreign birds of this particular class, including the Bander, Magpie, Helmet and Stralsund Tumblers. 1255.— PIGEON PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Pigeons.) Ingredients. — 2 or 3 pigeons, i Ib. of rump steak, £ of a Ib. of ham or lean bacon, £ of a pint of good stock, 2 hard-boiled eggs, the yolk of i egg, puff paste, salt and pepper.

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Method. — Cut each pigeon into 4 or more pieces, according to their size; cut the beef into small thin slices, the ham into strips, and the eggs into sections or slices. Put these ingredients into a pie-dish in layers, season well, and pour in stock to £ fill the dish. Put on the cover (see " Veal and Ham Pie," No. 798), brush over with yolk ofeg^, bake in quick oven until the paste is risen and set, then cook at a lower temperature for about i hour. Have ready a few of the pigeons' feet, scalded and the toes cut off, also the remainder of the stock. Before S, pour in the stock through the hole in the centre of the pie, and replace the pastry ornament with the feet, lixini; them in a nearly upright position. The pie may be served cither hot or cold; if the latter, the stock must form a jelly when cold.

Time. — About i£ hours, to bake the pie. Average Cost, 43. to 45. 6d. Sufficient, for 6 to 8 persons. Seasonable at any time. i'lGEOw.— This bird, which is suppose*!:

s. Its colour is usually blue and silver, but black, red and \< Although delicate birds to rear, if crossed with the common pig bird is produced, the flesh of which is of good flavour an '. o Spanish Runt, the name by which it was originally known in England. • r bears a strong resemblance • I and beak; but the Nun. although a good flyer, has not the power < •.cording to the colour of its bead the Nun is named red, yellow or black, but the last is the ic shell-crest, a sc: ' -athers rising at the back of the head,. t ly at each side of the head; the larger and more perfectly it is formed, the more highly is the bird esteemed and proportionately valued. The head J be small and the primary flight.• rs coloured, but the rr white. The ins of a well-bred bird should be of the purest pearl-white. The toeuails deep black. The handsome appearance of the Nun renders it a favourite toy pigeon. 1256.— PIGEONS, POTTED. (See Chicken Potted.) THE TRUMPETER PIGEOK. — This bird has been thus designated from the peculiarity of its voice, s the sound of a trumpet instead of the " coo " of other pigeons. It is of a::> legs and {••. ked and covwcd with long fc is loose; black and white. The rose on the forehead in a bird of good breeding should - ^ularly and cover the entire head, concealing the eyes and beak. The Trum; igeon is known on the Continent as the "Drummer."

THE WOOD OR WILD PIGEON. — The stock-dove, as the wood or wild pigeon to also called, is still • Ue in some parts of Britain. It forms its nest in the holes of rocks, old •wsof trees, but, unlike the ring-dove, doe* not nestle in the branches. >, igeons still vi&it our shores in the winter, making their a; November from their more northerly retreats, and returning thither in the spring. When formerly forests of beechwood covered large tracts of ground in England, the wood pigeon frequented them in vast numbers. 1257.— PIGEONS, ROASTED. (Fr.— Pigeons Rotis.) Ingredients. — Pigeons, bacon, watercress, salad-oil, salt and pepper. tomato or piquante sauce (sc* Sauces), croutons of fried.d.

Method. — Draw and truss the birds, cover each breast with a slice ling bacon, and roast before a clear fire or in a brisk oven for about 20 or 30 minutes, according to age and size. Baste frequently, cfore serving rcm<.con to allow the breasts >ing strir fi bacon, isly washed. <.isoncd with salt, pepper, and salad-oil, and serve the sauce in a boat.

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Time. — From 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 6d. each.

Sufficient, allow i bird for 2 persons.

FANTAIL. — This well-known and curious variety is characterized by its possessing the power of erecting its tail in the manner of a turkey cock, during which action it trembles or shakes its neck in a similar way to the peacock when moving about with his train expanded and in full display. The chief colour of the fantail is pure white, but black, blue and other hues are met with. The head is narrow and flat, the beak long and slender, the legs and feet naked, the tail-feathers long and broad. When flying, the fantail contracts its tail contrary to the habit of other pigeons. The Fantail is common in India, where it possibly originated, and is a favourite bird with the Hindus, who ornament the legs of their Fantails with small brass bangles containing little silver balls. I2S3.-PIGEONS, STEWED. (Fr.— Compote de Pigeons a la Bourgeoise.) Ingredients. — 3 pigeons, £• of a pint of Espagnole sauce (see Sauces No. 244), i glass of claret, i oz. of butter, % a pint of shelled peas, 12 button onions, 6 or 7 very small carrots, salt and pepper, croute of fried bread, i£ inches in thickness.

Method. — Cut each pigeon into 4 pieces, and fry them brown in the butter. Have ready the hot Espagnole sauce, put in the pigeons and claret, cover closely, and stew gently for about 35 minutes, or until the birds are tender. Strain the butter into a small stewpan,put in the onions, and cook until tender and well browned. Boil the carrots and peas separately, and drain them well. Arrange the pigeons on the croute, strain the sauce over, group the onions, peas, and carrots tastefully round the dish, and serve.

Time. — To cook the pigeons, about 35 minutes. Average Cost, from 43. 6d. to 55. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons.

THE JACOBIN. — This is one of the most prized of fancy pigeons. It is a handsome bird, distin<niished by a remarkable ruff or frill of raised feathers, which commence behind the head and proceed down the neck and breast, forming a kind of hood which, if perfect, should come forward as far as the eyes. In form the Jacobin should be slenderly made, narrow shouldered, with unfeathered legs, and soft, silky, and very narrow feathers; the head should be somewhat broad and round, and the eyes pearl-white. Its principal colours are red, black, white and yellow. THE TU'RBIT PIGEON. — This variety resembles the Jacobin, having a kind of frill in the fore part of the neck. The present breed of Turbit is characterized by a full frill, small head, broad forehead, short thick beak, prominent hazel eyes, the wings coloured with the exception of the primary 'flight-feathers, and the remainder of the plumage white. The feathers at the back of the head should end in a high, sharp point, just above the crown. Turbits are of various hues, black, red, blue, silver, yellow and variants of these. The Oriental Turbit, a stronger built bird than the English Turbit, has no crest.

1259.— PIGEONS WITH OLIVES. (Fr. Pigeons aux Ingredients. — 2 pigeons, 24 stoned French olives, | of a pint of Espagnole sauce, (see Sauces No. 244), i£ ozs. of butter, stock.

Method. Divide each pigeon into quarters, and fry them brown in the butter. Have the sauce ready in a stewpan, put in the pigeons, cover closely, and cook them very gently for about 40 minutes, or until tinder. Meanwhile, braise or stew the olives in a little good stock. S3rvc the pigeons on a hot dish, with the sauce strained over, and the olives grouped at the base.

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Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 35. to 35. oxl. Sufficient THE BARB PIGEON. — The name of this bird is probably a contraction of Barbary, since Shakespeare refers to it under that designation. The Barb somewhat resembles the Carrier pigeon in appearance. The head is broad and flat, the beak short and the wattle small. The chief characteristic of the Barb is the spongy, bright red, wheel-shaped wattle, standing out all round the eyes, which increases in size until the bird is three or four years old. The brilliancy of the colour of the eye wattles diminishes with age. The eyes of a well-bred Barb should be pearl-white, and its beak THE ROCK PIGEON. — In its wild state the rock pigeon is found more abundantly on the rocky parts of the West of Scotland and the bold shores of the Western Isles than in any other parts of the British Isles. In these localities the pigeons congregate in great numbers, and flocks from different parts of the coast frequently meet on the feeding grounds, but when the time arrives for ret irning to rest each pigeon keeps to its own party. A very conspicuous trait of the rock pigeon is its love of home an y in returning to it. The rock pigeon is the original progenitor of the numerous domestic varieties of the pigeon, and is used by the late Dr. Darwin in his Origin of Species and Animals under Domestication, to illustrate his theory of descent by natural selection. THE POUTER PIGEON.— This favourite pigeon is a tall and strong bird with white feather and is characterized by his great round inflated crop. The more common birds of this variety are the blues, buffs and whites, or an intermixture of these colours. The pouter is not a prolific is a bad nurse, and degenerates, if not repeatedly crossed and re-crossed with fresh stock, more rapidly than any other kind of pigeon. It is, however, a useful bird, being much attached to its home and strays but little, and thus induces more restless pigeons of other varieties to remain at home.

THE OWL PIGEON. — Like the Turbit, the Owl pigeon has a remarkable tuft of feathers on the • ••iemblins; a frill or rosrtte, going partly round the neck; the size of the frill constitutes a point of exci-llenre in the bird. \\Vll-bred birds of the Owl type are rounded, broad and short from the eye to the tip of the beak, which should be short and thick, the eye prominent and the breast broad. The Owl pigeon is probably a native of the southern shores of the Mediterranean. There are several van <kered Owl. which has a very large frill, and is supposed to have come from China; in Ciermany it is called the Chinese Owl; the African ( >wl, with bare legs and destitute of a crest; and the Eastern Owl, imported from Turkey and Asia Minor.

1260.— SAVOURY DUCK.

See " Faggots."

1261.— SMOTHERED CHICKEN.

Ingredients. — A boiled fowl, No. 1220, white sauce, No. 222 Method. — Divide the hot cooked fowl into neat joints, place them on a hot dish, cover completely with sauce, then serve.

1262.— TURKEY, BAKED, A LA MILANAISE.

See " Italian Cookery."

1263.— TURKEY, BLANQUETTE OF. (Fr. — Blanquette de Dinde.) Ingredients. — The remains of a cold turkey, $ of a pint of stock, i \ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i yolk of egg, 2 tablespoon fu Is of cream, i small onion, i small blade of mace, nutmeg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the turkey into neat slues, and set these aside until wanted. Put the bones, trimmings, onion, mace and a little salt and pan, cover with coM water, simmer gently for at hour, and strain. Heal the butter in a stewjun. add the flour, cook for.i few minutes without browning, put in the stock, and stir

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until boiling. Simmer gently for 10 minutes, season to taste, add a pinch of nutmeg, put in the slices of turkey, and let them become quite hot without boiling. Mix the cream and yolk of egg together, add them to the contents of the stewpan, stir gently for about 5 minutes, Time. — To re-heat the turkey, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. to 8d., exclusive of the turkey. Sufficient for i dish.

THE TURKEY (Fr. dindon). — This is one of the gallinaceous birds, the principal genera of which are the pheasants, turkeys, peacocks, bustards, pintatoes and grouse. They live chiefly on the ground scraping the earth with their feet, and feeding on seeds and grain which, previous to digestion, are macerated in their crops. They usually associate in families consisting of one male and several females. Turkeys are especially partial to the seeds of nettles. The common turkey is a native of North America, and it was introduced into England during the reign of Henry VIII. According to Tusser's Five Hundred Points oj Good Husbandry, it began about the year 1585 to form a dish at the rural Christmas feast.

"Beefe, mutton, and pork, shred pies of the best, Pig, veal, goose and capon, and turkey well drest:

Cheese, apples and nuts, jolly carols to hear, As then in the country is counted good cheer."

The turkey is one of the most difficult birds to rear, and its flesh is much esteemed. 1264.— TURKEY, BOILED. (Fr.— Dinde Bouilli.) Ingredients. — i turkey, sausage meat (i to 2 Ibs., according to size of turkey), forcemeat balls (see Forcemeats); a small head of celery, 1 pint of celery sauce (see Sauces No. 1 84), stock or water, 2 onions, 2 carrots, i small turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 white peppercorns, salt.

Method. — Prepare and truss the turkey for boiling, stuif the crop with sausage meat, wrap the bird in a well-buttered paper, and put it into a pan containing as much boiling stock or water as will cover it. When the liquor boils, add the onions, carrots, and turnip cut into large pieces, the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and salt to taste, put on the cover and cook gently from i% to T\ hours, according to size. Meanwhile, make the forcemeat balls, and fry them in a little hot fat or butter. Cut the celery into neat pieces, and boil in well-seasoned stock or water until tender. When the turkey is sufficiently cooked, remove the trussing skewers and strings, place on a hot dish, pour the sauce over, and garnish with groups of celery, dice, and forcemeat balls. If preferred, Bechamel sauce may be substituted for the celery sauce; in any case the quantity provided should be proportionate to the size of the bird. Boiled ham or tongue usually accompanies boiled turkey.

Time. — From 2 to 2^ hours. Average Cost, 6s. to 203., according to size of turkey and season. Seasonable, from September to March. In best condition in December and January.

The Disposition of the Turkey. — The turkey among its own flock is both fierce and quarrelsome, but among other birds is usually both weak and cowardly. The domestic cock will often keep a flock of turkeys at a distance and they will rarely attack him except in an united body, when the cock is crushed rather by the superior weight of his antagonists than by their prowess. The female is less ferocious in her disposition than the male, and when leading forth her young, to which she is very affectionate, to collect their food, gives them if attacked but slight protection, warning them, of their danger rather than offering to protect her threatened brood.

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GAME & POULTRY.

i.— Snipe on Toast. a.— Larks on Toast. 3.— Roast Pheasant. 4.— Roast Pigeons. -Roast Fowl. 6 Roast Goose 7--Roa*t Duck. 8. -Boiled Fowl. 9.— Roast Turkey

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1265.— TURKEY, CROQUETTES OF. (Fr.— Croquettes de Dinde.) See "Chicken, Croquettes of," No. 1157.

1266.— TURKEY, DEVILLED. (Fr.— Dinde a la Ingredients. — Cold roast turkey. For the devilled butter: i oz. of butter, \ a saltspoonful each of cayenne, Hick pepper, and curry powder, a pinch of ground ginger, piquante sauce. Method.— Mix the ingredients W the devilled butter together on a the turkey into pieces convenient for sen. ing, remove all skin, score the and spread lightly with the butter. lor i hour, or longer when a highly then grill over the fire, and serve with piq or other suitable s..

Time. — To grill, about 8 minutes. Average Cost,,^ of the turkey. Sufficient, one 1<; will serve 2 persons. ST. TURKEYS.— A favourite diversion among the Indians of Canada was banting turkey*, the retreat of these birds was discovered, usually near to a field of nettles or grain a welllog was sent among the flock. As soon as the turkey* pen-••d, leaving the dog far behind, but still following in their wake. The ! oeir efforts after a time sought shelter in the trees. Sitting there worn out by;rds were easily secured by the hunters, who knocked them down one by one: poles which they carried for that purpose. 1267. -TURKEY, DEVILLED. (Fr.— Dinde a la Diable.) (Another Method.) Ingredients. — 2 turkey legs, made mr. r and salt Method. — Score tl deep ridges, in regular lines, both along e and salt these, adding cayenne, when liked viry d mustard, r \\ell into the op.

and let it remain until the next morning. Have a bright until the outside is crisp and brown. Sprca small pieces of fresh butter, seasoned with cayenne.and ackly. Time. A <> grill. Average Cost, 4d., e 1268.— TURKEY, FRICASSEE OF. (Fr.— Fricassee de Dinde.) See "Chicken, Fricasseed," No. 1164.

1269.— TURKEY, GALANTINE OF.

;$, and use a boned turk ken.

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1270.— TURKEY, HASHED. (Fr.— Hachie de Dinde.) Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast turkey, i|- ozs. of butter, i^ ozs. of flour, £ of a pint of stock made from bones and trimmings of turkey, salt and pepper, a few drops of liquid caramel.

Method. — Divide the turkey into small neat joints, and put them aside. Put the bones and trimmings into a stewpan with a small onion, a blade of mace, a few peppercorns and a little salt, simmer gently for 2 hours, then strain and use. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add the stock, and stir until boiling. Let the sauce boil gently for about 10 minutes, in order that the flour may be thoroughly cooked, then season to taste, add the pieces of turkey, draw the stewpan aside, and let it remain for about \ an hour, where the contents will be kept just below simmering point. Before serving, improve the colour of the sauce by the addition of a few drops of caramel. The dish may be garnished with sippets of toasted bread, or surrounded by a border of mashed potato.

Time. — About 45 minutes after the stock is made. Average Cost, 6d. exclusive of the turkey.

Note. — For other methods of re-heating turkey, see the numerous recipes for, re- heating chicken.

ENGLISH TURKEYS. — These are reared in great numbers in Suffok, Norfolk and several other counties, whence they were wont to be driven to the London market in flocks of several hundreds; the improvements in our modes of travelling now, however, enable them to be brought by railway. Their drivers used to manage them with great facility, by means of a bit of red rag tied to the end of a long stick, which, from the antipathy these birds have to that colour, effectually answered the purpose of a scourge. There are three varieties of the turkey in this country, the black, the white, and the speckled or copper-coloured. The black approaches nearest the original stock, and is esteemed the best. Its flesh is white and tender, delicate, nourishing and of excellent flavour; it greatly deteriorates with age, however, and is then good for little but stewing. 1271.— TURKEY POULT, ROASTED. (Fr.— Dindon roti.) Ingredients. — Turkey poult, butter or fat for basting, gravy (see "Gravies").

Method. — Truss the bird for roasting and cover the breast with 2 or 3 folds of buttered paper. Roast for about i hour in front of a clear fire, basting frequently, and serve with good gravy, and, if liked, either fried bacon or boiled ham.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6s. to 73. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from June to October.

THE WILD TURKEY. — In its wild state the turkey is a gregarious bird, going together in large flocks, frequently some hundreds in number. They frequent the great swamps of America, where they roost, but at sunrise repair to the dry woods in search of berries and acorns. They perch on the boughs of trees, usually mounting to the highest tops. In its manner of flight the wild turkey is awkward, but runs with great swiftness. In the early spring they become so fat that they are readily overtaken by a horseman. Wild turkeys are now rare in the inhabited parts of America, but are found in great numbers in the more distant and less frequented districts.

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1272.— TURKEY, ROASTED. (Fr.— Dinde Roti.) Ingredients. — i turkey, i to 2 Ib. of sausage meat, i to i£ Ib. of veal see Forcemeats), 2 or 3 slices of bacon, i pint of good gravy. '. sauce (see Sauces, No. 180), fat for bas; Method. Prepare and truss the turkey. Fill the crop with sa and put the veal forcemeat inside the body of the bird. Skrwrr icon over the istc well \\ithhot fat, and roast in front tire or in a moderate oven from if to 2^ hours, accord i (1 size of the bird. Baste frequently, and about 20 minutes be4 remove the bacon to allow the breast to brown. K. move the trussing strings, serve on a hot dish, and send the gravy iiml bread sauce to table in sauce-boats.

Time. — From ij to 2$ hours. Average Cost, los. to i6s. Seasonable Scpti'nilier to February.

1273.— TURKEY, STEWED OR BRAISED.

(Fr. — Dinde braise.) Ingredients, i small turkry, 2 or 3 slices of bacon, 4 ozs. of t> 1. i turnip sliced, a bouquet-garni (pa i'|KTCorns, salt and jx-pper, i pint of oyster 10 "\ Sto Method. Tni-s tin- 1-nd as for roasting. 11- -ittrr in a until tli. \\holc surface is wcll-brov, s, bouquct-garni, peppercorns and a good seasoning of salt, and add stock to n hole. Recr closely, "k grntly for about 2 hours, or until the tin! ! ini-^ht 1 as when roas* Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 6s. 6d. to 8s. 6d., exclusive Sufflclent for 8 persons. Seasonable September to iary.

Tut OMGIM or THE Ti'RKKY.— It b to North America that we an indebted for this bird, whirh h popularly aModatod with Chmtma* far* and rvioktaff. It b a*MTtod by MOM that th wa» known to the ancfeota, and that it formed a d&h at the wedding feast o< Charitmafne. Tbrre U. hnwrvrr. httlr.l-ubt th »t:t h.1: ItNl < f t!.r | ft* • ••. (UMTi.. «!, -,-,t E f 5 E Hi M ' ! reared; now about fifteen number arrive at matur 1274. TURKEY WITH CHESTNUTS. (Fr.— Dinde Farcie aux Matrons. ) Ingredients, i turkey, 2 or 3 Ib. of chestnuts, i to 1} Ib. of sausage

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meat or veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), 3 or 4 slices of bacon, \ a pint of stock, i pint of good gravy, or brown sauce (see Gravies and Sauces), 2 ozs. of butter, i egg, a little cream or milk, salt and pepper. Method. — Slit the skins of the chestnuts, throw them into boiling water, cook for 15 minutes, then remove both skins. Replace in the stewpan, add the stock, cover closely and simmer gently for nearly i hour, or until the chestnuts are tender. Rub them through a fine sieve, add the butter, egg, a good seasoning of salt and pepper, and if the puree appears at all dry, a little cream or milk. Prepare, and truss the turkey, stuff the crop with sausage meat or veal farce, and fill the body with the chestnut puree. Skewer the bacon over the breast, baste well with hot fat, and roast before a clear fire or in a moderate oven from if to 2^ hours, according to size. Baste well, and shortly before serving remove the bacon in order that the breast may brown. Remove the trussing strings, serve on a hot dish, and send the sauce or gravy to table in a sauce-boat. Time. — From if to 2% hours. Average Cost, IDS. to i6s. Seasonable from September to February; in best condition in December and January.

THE FEATHERS OF THE TURKEY. — Human ingenuity has utilized almost every material for use or for ornament, and among primitive races feathers have been widely employed for such purposes. The American Indians made an elegant cloth by twisting the inner ribs of the turkey's feathers into a strong double string with hemp or the inner bark of the mulberry tree, weaving these materials in a similar manner to matting and forming a fabric of a rich and glossy appearance. The tail feathers were made into fans by the Indians of Louisiana. 1275.— TURKEY, WITH CHIPOLATA GARNISH.

(Fr. — Dinde a la Chipolata.) Ingredients. — i turkey, i^- to 2^ Ib. of sausage meat, i to 2 Ib. of veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), larding bacon, i bottle of preserved mushrooms, -J a pint each of carrot and turnip scooped out into rounds, i£ ozs. of butter, £ a pint of stock, i pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244, fat for basting.

Method. — Prepare and truss the turkey, lard the breast, put £ a Ib. of the sausage meat aside, the remainder into the crop of the bird, and stuff the body with veal forcemeat. Baste well with hot fat, and roast before a clear fire, or in a moderate oven from if to 2 J hours, according to size. Baste frequently, and as soon as the breast has acquired sufficient colour, cover it with 3 or 4 folds of greased paper. Divide the butter and put it into 2 small stewpans, add the carrots to one and the turnips to the other, and fry for 10 or 1 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, add i or 2 tablespoonfuls of stock, cover closely, and cook the carrot gently for about 45 minutes, and the turnip for £ that length of time. The stewpans should be occasionally shaken, and it may be necessary to add more stock, all of which, however, must be well drained from the vegetables before dishing. 15 minutes before serving, put the mushrooms and their liquor into a stewpan,

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let them become thoroughly hot, then drain and use. Shape the remainder of the sausage meat into small balls, and fry them in hot butter or fat until brown. Remove the trussing strings, place the turkey on a hot dish, arrange the mushrooms, carrots, turnips and sausage meat balls in groups, and serve the Espagnole sauce in a sauceboat.

Time. — From ij to 2| hours. Average Cost, IDS. to i6s. Sufficient for \2 or more persons, according to size of the turkey. Seasonable from September to March; in best condition in December and January. 1276.— TURKEY, WITH MUSTARD SAUCE.

(JF>.— Dinde, Sauce Moutarde.) Ingredients. — 2 turl t a pint of brown sauce (see S. j;;) i t.iblespoonful ol ni.ule must. ml, i tablcspoonful of piquantc (see Sauces, No. 265).

Method. — Score the le-s «!<•< -ply, pour over them the mustard ami. for % an hour, or l<»n-i -r il pr< seasoned. Make the l>i<> • as directed, add to it the ul the in for 20 minutes, then serve on a Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, yd., exclusive of the turkey. Sufficient for 3 or 4 per 1277.— WHEATEARS, TO DRESS.

Ingredients. — Wheatears, fresh butter, water.

Method. — After the birds are picked, drawn and cleaned, truss them;ks, c<x»k them in front of a quick fire, and baste them well with oiled butter. When done, which will be in about 20 minutes. ic dish with watercress, and serve with fried breadcm::

Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, from 6d. each. Seasonable from July to October.

1 HEATIAJT (Fr. vitrrc).— Thisekuant little bird, some 6 inches in length, beJoncs to t'.'. or Warblm. and b a visitant of Britain during the summer, arrivin* from the li to May and quitting o«r island in September. The real* it light-grey, the w.n«K. the br e lit is brown with an orange tince, and the under parts brown ••-. The wheate^ is e^e«fned as a Uble d^hcacy wfo^ tnc iNrds are w*n-nov^hed. Larre > of the wheatear are car rrannirs of rocks and similar situations. Its egf» are of a pate blue tint. It b abo known,w thr /• aAotr-rA.il.

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CHAPTER XXIV General Observations on Game and the Game Laws The Game Laws, by which term is meant those statutes which establish a peculiar kind of property in wild animals, trace their origin to two principles of Common Law; the first is, that physical possession is the underlying idea of the law of property: as wild animals cannot, by their nature, be so physically possessed, no property in them can be recognized: they are res nullius; the second principle or maxim of the Common Law of England is that res nullius, that is, goods in which no person can claim any property, belong by royal prerogative to the Sovereign. Those animals accordingly, those ferae naturae which come under the denomination of game, are in our laws styled His or Her Majesty's, and may, therefore, as a matter of course, be granted by the Sovereign to another; in consequence of this royal privilege another may prescribe to possess the same rights within a certain precinct of lordship. Hence arose the rights of lords of manors and others to the game within their respective liberties; and to protect this right innumerable Acts of Parliament were passed. Many of these inflicted penalties of extraordinary severity upon persons convicted of illegally killing game; but they are now all abrogated, and the principal statutes, composing what are known as the Game Laws, may be enumerated as follows: 9 Geo. IV c. 69, referred to as the Night Poaching Act; i and 2 William IV c. 32, the Game Act; n and 12 Viet. c. 29, the Hares Killing Act; and 23 and 24 Viet. c. 90, the Game Licences Act; to these must be added 43 and 44 Viet. c. 35, the Wild Birds' Protection Act. It is the Game Act of William IV that concedes to any one the right to kill game on his own ground, irrespective of qualifications of rank or property, game being defined in this statute, as in the earlier one of George IV, to include " hares, pheasants, partridges, grouse, heath or moor game, black game, and bustards." This Act, however, requires all persons killing or pursuing game to take out a yearly certificate; and dealers selling it must also obtain a yearly licence.

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME 727 The Object of the Game Laws is not, however, wholly confined to the restraint of the illegal sportsman. Even qualified and privileged persons must not kill game at all seasons. During the day, the hours allowed for sporting are from one hour before sunrise until one hour after sunset; and the time of killing certain species is also restricted to certain seasons. Thus: — Partridges may be shot from September i to January 31. Pheasants „ „ October i to January 31.

Black Game „ „ August 20 to December 9.

Grouse,. „ August 12 to December 9.

Bustard., „ September i to February 28.

All other wild birds „ August i to February 28. It is the Wild Birds' Protection Act of 1880, referred to above as 43 and 44 Viet. c. 35, which has fixed the close season for wild birds other than those specified in the Game Act of William IV; by Sec. 3 of this is made a punishable offence to kill any between the first day of i and the first day of August, or to have any killed birds in pos:ie fifteenth day of March. This Act was amended c 51, exempting birds received from abroad.

included larks in the schedule of protected birds. The sand-grouse '.led at any time. Ix>cal Acts are also occasionally passed 'he close season in the interest of certain si i Act passed in iS«;2 the sale of hares and lev. K ts killed in the United Km-dom is prohibited from March to July inch; in Ireland the close season is between April i and August 12. This !<>es not apply to foreign h;i The Exercise or Diversion of pursuing Four-footed Beasts or Game is called hunt ing, and to this day is followed in the field and forest with gun and hound. Birds are not hunted but shot in the air, or taken with;id other devices, which is termed fowling; or they are pu and taken by birds of prey, which is termed hawking, a form of sport fallen almost entirely into desuetude in England, although now showing signs of bt ed in some parts of the country. M been 1 from the -es in the pursuit of four-footed beasts, such as deer, boars and hares, properly termed hunting. It was the rudest and the most obvious acquiring human support before iHultur.il art> 1. i 1 in any degree advanced. It is an employre»|iiiring both art and contrivance, as well as a c, s of character, combined with considerable powers of durance. Without these, success could not be very great; lie occupation is u-ually accompanied with rude and turbulent i combined with such, it constitutes what id the soil •,1 to th of the tamer and 11. of the huntsman is proper-

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tionably limited; so that when a country has attained to a high state of cultivation, hunting becomes little else than an amusement of the wealthy. In the case of fur-bearing animals, however, it is somewhat different, for these continue to supply the wants of civilization with one of its most valuable materials of commerce.

The Themes which form the Minstrelsy of the Earliest Ages relate either to the spoils of the chase or to the dangers of the battlefield. The sacred writings introduce us to Nimrod, the first mighty hunter before the Lord, and tell us that Ishmael, in the solitudes of Arabia, became a skilful bowman; and that David, when yet young, was not afraid to join in combat with the lion or the bear. Greek mythology teems with hunting exploits; Hercules overthrows the Nemaean lion, the Erymanthean boar and the hydra of Lerna; Diana descends to the earth and pursues the stag; yEsculapius, Nestor, Theseus, Ulysses and Achilles are all followers of the chase. Aristotle, the philosopher, advises young men to apply themselves early to it; and Plato finds in it something divine. Horace exalts it as a preparative exercise for the path of glory, and several of the heroes of Homer are its ardent votaries. The Romans followed the hunting customs of the Greeks, and the ancient Britons were hunters before Julius Caesar invaded our shores. Although the ancient Britons followed hunting, however, they did not confine themselves solely to its pursuit. They bred cattle and tilled the ground and, to some extent, indicated the rudimentary state of a pastoral and agricultural life; but, in every social change field sports maintained their place. After the expulsion of the Danes, and during the brief restoration of the Saxon monarchy, such sports were still followed; even Edward the Confessor, who would join in no other secular amusement, took the greatest delight, says William of Malmesbury, " to follow a pack of swift hounds in pursuit of game, and to cheer them with his voice." Nor was Edward the only English sovereign who delighted in the pleasures of the chase. William the Norman, and his two sons who succeeded him, were passionately fond of the sport, an4 greatly circumscribed the liberties of their subjects in reference to the killing of game. The privilege of hunting in the royal forests was confined to the king and his favourites; and in order that these might be made more extensive, whole villages were depopulated, places of worship levelled with the ground, and every means adopted that might give a sufficient extension of space for the beasts of the chase. King John was especially devoted to field sports, and went so far as to lay an interdict upon the winged as well as upon the four-footed creation. These forest laws at length became so tyrannical and intolerable that our ancestors became almost as anxious for their reformation as they were for the relaxation of the feudal system, and they wrung from the king the Charta de Foresta with as much insistence as they wrung from him Magna Charta. Edward III was so enamoured of the exercise that even

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during his absence at the wars in France he took with him sixty couples of stag-hounds and as many hare-hounds, and every day amused himself either with hunting or hawking. Great in wisdom as the Scotch Solomon, James VI of Scotland and I of England, conceived himself to be, he was much addicted to the amusements of hunting, hawking and shooting. From his days down to the present, field-sports have continued to hold their high reputation, not only for the promotion of health, but also for the development of that manliness of character which enters so largely into the composition of the British race.

The late Duke of Grafton when hunting was, on one occasion, thrown into a ditch, A young curate, engaged in the same chase, cried out, " Lie still, my lord ! " leapt over him, and pursued his sport. Such an apparent want of feeling might be expected to have been resented by the duke; but not so. On his being helped up by his attendant, he said, " That man shall have the first good living that falls to my disposal; had he stopped to have given me his sympathy. 1 would have given him anything." Such was the manly sent: of the duke, who delighted in the manifestation of a spirit as a ort, and superior to the baseness of an assumed sorrow. That Hunting has in many Instances been carried to an excess i- \\c 11 known. The match given by the Prince Esterhazy, Regent of Hungary, on the signing of the treaty of jxv >t the least « nstancc upon record. On that occasion there were 1 60 deer, 100 wild boars, 300 hares and 80 foxes; this was the achievement of one day. Enormous, however, as this slaughter may appear, inferior to that made by the contemporary King of >> on a hunting expedition. That sovereign had a larp of ground at his command and a longer period for the exercise of his talents; consequent lv his sport, if it can be so called, was proportionably (1 during his journey to \ Bohemia and V he killed 5 bears, 1,820 boars, 1,950 deer,. 1 1, 1 2 1 rabbits, i > Igcrs,: hares and 354 foxes; of birds, during the same cxpe<: peasants and artridges. Such prod; i can hardly be called sport; it resembles more the of a battlefield, where the scientific engines of arc brought to bear upon defenceless savages.

De«r and Hares may be considered to be the only four-footed an mted in I'ntain for the table; and even these are not followed with the same ardour as they were in bygone days. Still, then:ic sport of hunting on horseback is carried • Hritain, and where the pleasir isc are so well understood and conducted on such purely sci< Beasts of •."is now consi >ort. F<> !y superior to the stag;

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for the real sportsman can only enjoy that chase when the deer is sought for and found like other game, which are pursued with hounds. In the case of finding an outlying fallow-deer, which is unharboured in this manner, great sport is frequently obtained, but this is now rarely to be met with in Britain. Hare-hunting is followed in many parts of this and the sister island. Although it is less dangerous and exciting than fox-hunting, it has great charms for those who do not care for the hard riding which the other requires. The Art of taking or killing Birds is called " fowling," and is either practised as an amusement by persons of rank or property, or for a livelihood by persons who use nets and other apparatus. When practised as an amusement, it principally consists in killing them with a light firearm called a " fowling-piece," and the sport is secured to those who pursue it by the game laws. The other means by which birds are taken consists in imitating their voices, or leading them, by other artifices, into situations where they become entrapped by nets, bird-lime or other methods. For taking large numbers of birds, the pipe or call is the most common means employed; and this is done during the months of September and October. We will here give a brief description of the modus operandi pursued in this sport. A thin wood is usually the spot chosen, and a cabin is erected under a tree at a little distance from the others; only such branches are left on the tree as are necessary for the placing of the bird-lime, with which they are covered. Around the cabin are placed avenues with twisted perches, also covered with bird-lime. Having thus prepared all that is necessary, the bird-catcher places himself in the cabin and, sunrise and sunset, imitates the cry of a small bird calling the others to its assistance. Supposing that the cry of the owl is imitated, different kinds of birds will immediately flock together at the cry of their common enemy when, at every instant, they will be seen falling to the ground, their wings being of no use to them, from their having come in contact with the bird-lime. The cries of those which are thus situated now attract others, and large numbers are thus taken in a short space of It is only during the night, and by counterfeiting the squeak of a mouse, that owls themselves can be taken. Larks and other birds and water-fowl are sometimes taken by nets; but to give a full description of the manner in which this is done would occupy too much space.

Feathered game have from time immemorial gratified the palate of man. With the exception of birds of prey and some other species, the Israelites by the Mosaic code were permitted to eat them; the Egyptians made offerings to their priests of their most delicate birds. The ancient Greeks commenced their repast with little roasted birds; and feathered game, amongst the Romans, was served as the second course. Indeed, several of the ancient gourmets of the " imperial

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city " were so fond of game that they brought themselves to ruin by eating flamingoes and pheasants. "Some modern nations, the French amongst others," says Monsieur Soyer, " formerly ate the heron crane, crow, stork, swan, cormorant and bittern." The first three especially were highly esteemed; and Laillevant, cook of Charles VII, teaches us how to prepare these meagre, tough birds. " Belon " says that in spite of its revolting taste when unaccustomed to it, the bittern is, however, among the delicious treats of the French. This writer also asserts that a falcon or vulture, either roasted or boiled, is excellent eating, and that if one of these birds happened to kill itself in flying after game, the falconer instantly cooked it. Lebaut calls the heron" a royal viand."

The Heron was hunted by the Hawk, and the sport of hawking is usually placed at the head of those amusements that can only be practised in the country. This precedency it probably obtained from its being a pastime so generally followed by the nobility, not in Great Britain only, but likewise on the Continent. In former times, persons of high rank rarely appeared in public without their dogs and their hawks; the hitter they carried with them when they journeyed from one country to another, and sometimes even took them to battle with thrni, and would not part with them when taken prisoners, even to obtain their own liberty. Such birds were esteemed as the ei of nobility, and no action was reckoned more dishonourable in a man ink than that of giving up his hawk.

\\V have already all;. he hunting propensities of our own Kdward III, and we may also allude to 1 dly devote 1 to hawking. According to Froissart, when this sovereign invaded 1 ranee, he took with him thirty falconers on horseback, who had charge of his hawks, and every day, as his royal fancy inclined him, he cither hunted, or went to the river for the mirpose of hawking. As the inevitable Result of Social Progress is, at least, to limit, i: entirely to suppress, such sports as we have been treating of, much of the romance of the country life has passed away. This is m<ne.dly the car with falconry, which had its origin about the middle of the fourth century, although lately attempts have been made with some decree of success to institute a revival of the " gentle art " of hawk| uliiis Firmicus, who lived about that time, is, so far as we can find, the first Latin author who speaks of falconers, and of the art of teaching •ecies of birds to fly after and catch others. The occupation of functionaries has now all but erased. New and nobler efforts /<• the aims of mankind in the development of their civili/and held sports have, to a 1 it, been superseded by other iful and invigorating, but is certainly ial and humanizing.

The Wild Birds, of speak, a; by the:id may only In- killed or sold during some months of the year.

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In a country so thickly populated as England they would otherwise soon be exterminated. It is, however, more as a matter of custom than as a matter of fact, that we speak of all game as wild, for thousands of birds are bred, like barn-door fowls, and turned loose for sport in the autumn.

Season for Game. — Between March 1 5 and August i is the worst time for game, for since 1872 a ^5 penalty has been exacted from any person who shall kill or sell any one of a scheduled list of birds, of which these have most to do with the housekeeper — coot, dotterel, mallard, moorhen, plover, quail, snipe, woodcock, swan, teal, widgeon, wild duck, wheatear. They may be sold, however, if they are proved to come from outside the limits of the United Kingdom; and a good deal of foreign game is sold to those who cannot content themselves during those months without a game course to dinner. Partridges and prairie hens come to us from America, Russia and Norway, and some of the Colonies supply us with game " out of season "; there is also a large importation of quails from Egypt.

To Keep Game. — All water birds should be eaten as fresh as possible, because their flesh is oily and soon becomes rank. Most game is kept until putrefaction has commenced, it being thought that the flavour is thereby developed. The time that it may be kept depends upon (i ) the taste of the persons who are to eat it; (2) the weather; (3) the age of the bird. Taking all these together, it is impossible to lay down any precise rules. In damp, muggy weather, even if the thermometer is not very high, game will keep a very little time, but in clear, windy weather, even if it is not very cold, it will keep for many days. It should always be kept in the fur or feathers, and should not be drawn, and should be hung up in a current of air. It may sometimes be necessary to pluck, truss and half cook it, in which state it will keep a day or two longer.

Old birds may always be kept longer than young ones, so that it is well, in case of having a good deal of game, to cook the old on one day and the young on another. Old birds also need longer cooking. To Choose Game. — At the beginning of the season it is easy to distinguish between old and young, but towards the end of the year the distinctions become obliterated. Besides the smoothness of the claws and the small lip cleft of a young hare, the ear is tender and can be easily torn. This sign, however, is not infallible if the ear is torn by the poulterer, who, by long practice, can always tear it very readily. The short, stumpy neck and long joints of a young rabbit or hare are a better guide, and a small bony knob can be felt near the foot of a leveret, which is absent in a full-grown hare. Partridges, at the beginning of the season, can always be distinguished by the shape of the long feathers in the wing; in an old bird they are round at the end, like the letter U; in a young one they are pointed, like a V.

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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON GAME The red-legged French partridges are rather larger and cheaper than the English, but they are not considered so good. The size of the spur, the smoothness of the legs and the tenderness of the pinion are the best guides in choosing a pheasant; and, indeed, these always are the points to observe in all birds, so far as their age is concerned. If they are in good condition the breast is thick and hard; Lf lean, the breast feels thin and soft. The feet generally tell if a bird is fresh, should be supple and moist, especially in water birds, but they soon become stiff and dry after the bird is dead. Game is less fat than poultry or butcher's meat, and is generally thought to be very nourishing. It is also easy of digestion, and is valued in the sick room as well as on the table of the epicure. This does not apply to wild fowl, which have close, firm, and rather oily. therefore, unsuitable for delicate persons, imber of small birds spoken of in this chapter do not, s:;ng, come within the limits of either game, wild fowl or poultry,.iten as articles of luxury to no great amount, and are inre because they often replace game on the dinner table. Table Showing Relative Value of Poultry and Game. Giving the actual cost of the eatable portion of all, after deducting Loss in Weight from Cooking, Bone, Skin and Waste. ':\ time and trouble has been spent in preparing the following all the Poultry and Game having been specially cooked It will surprise many to see the result, which shows how ostly most of the small birds are, reckoning their price per lb., ad of the usual way at so much each, or per brace. Weight when Loss per Cost per Name of i How •;.:.-,e • *. 1 \v..-\t..., V K.:..:

Cooked, with U:.:.• I: v; v.,; « •!* A'.-:..'•• OMtpti lb.

1 mtS,,.l bOM •od ox* s.,/.

s. J.

!•.:• i i; Mtod 3 o ! J.4 o 0 IOJ,, o 9 o 14 o 10 a o 4 o o 14 a 6 i ^ o 5 O o 7 3 o 6| o 8 o 3 a 6 O o 8 o t 3 o Note. I «lumn arc those of p< md game, after being d: for cooking.

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Table Giving Weight of Bone, Skin and Waste and Loss by Cooking in Poultry and Game. Name of Bird. when Loss by Total Loss by Cooking, eatable matter. Duck o 8 4O I O O 12 Goose.. t.,..;,, Grouse;^ ''• '•'/'•''• t'*i*J O 2 O 2 O 4.

o 10 Hare... \ lo Partridge • • ••, --.fit V<) Pheasant.. /" t; Pigeon. ' i i > ' i • * » •" »;•'*•* 4 o o 14 Oc o 9 o 3l O II O I 0 2j O li o 6 o i» O 2\ Woodcock.. Y': i.3 o o 8 3 o 0 2| o 4 o ii o 4 o 4

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CHAPTER XXV 1278.— BLACKBIRD PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Merle.) Ingredients. — Blackbirds, rump steak, veal forcemeat (see " Forceps, good stock, salt and pepper, paMethod. — Pick and draw the birds, and stuff them with veal forceLine the bottom and sides of a picdish with rather thin slices of steak, put in tin- bn<l>cut in halves, season them v. •crsescct; rd-boiled eggs Halt till ii.

.;ood stock, c paste (see "Veal and Ham Pie"), and m a mod- r it. ly hot oven. Add more stock before Time. — To bake the pic, from i^ to if hours, according to size. Average Cost, in blackbirds being s< M. Seasonable from r to the end of ] I279.-BLACK COCK, FILLETS OF, A LA FINANCIERE. (Fr.— Filets de Coq de Bruyere a la Finan^iere.) Ingredient*. — 2 black cocks, 3 slices of bacon, \ a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces), J of a pint of stock, i gl.i mushrooms, i medium-sized onion, i small carrot, £ a turnip, salt and Method. -Cut the birds into neat IV..«• vegetables, place in a sautc-pan with the stock, add the slices of bacon, lav th«• »p of them, cover closely with a well-buttered paper, • >ok gently for about 30 minutes. Make the brown sar • •d, add to it the mushrooms (fresh ones must be j butter), and t -eason to taste, and keep hot until d. When the fillets are done, arrange them on a hot sauce over, and garni ooms, and, if bacon cut into dice and grouped round the base. Time, i Average Cost, from 35. 6J. to 45. 6d. per brace. Seasonable from the middle of August to the end of November. n*

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1280.— BLACK COCK, GRILLED. (Fr.— Coq de Bruyere Grille.) Ingredients. — i black cock, a little warm butter, \ a teaspoonful of lemon-juice, a few drops of anchovy essence, % a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces, No. 233), salt and pepper.

Method. — Split the bird down the back, cut off the legs at the first joint, and skewer into as flat a shape as possible. Brush over with warm butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and grill over or in front of a clear fire from 25 to 30 minutes. The bird should be turned frequently, and occasionally brushed over with butter during the process of cooking. Make the sauce as directed, add to it the lemonjuice and anchovy-essence, season to taste, strain and serve in a sauceboat. Fried potato chips or straws are frequently served with this Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost 35. 6d.t o 45. 6d. per brace. Seasonable from the middle of August to the end of November.

BLACK-COCK (Fr. coq de bruytre) — The name given to the male of the black grouse a species of Rasorial birds included in the Tetraonidae or grouse famly. The Black-cock frequents the moors of Scotland, and is also found on the Alps and Apennines, and in Norway and Russia. The male, about the size of the common hen, weighs some 4 lb., the female about 2 )b.; the eggs of the latter are of yellowish-white colour spotted with brown. The flesh of the Black-cock is highlyesteemed. Large numbers of these birds are imported from Norway, but although larger in size than the Scotch bird, their flavour is not so delicate. The plumage of the male bird is a fine glossy black, whence its name, with white on its lower wing-coverts. The four outer feathers of the tail on each side are curved outwards at their tips, thus giving to the tail a double-hooked or lyre-shaped appearance. The colour of the females is brown, and the tail straight. Both sexes are feathered on the shanks. Until they are about half-grown the males are scarcely distinguishable from the females, when the black feathers begin to appear about the sides and breast. The food of the Blackcock consists of the tops of the birch and heather and ripe mountain berries, and in the summer these birds frequently descend to the lower lands to feed upon the corn. The Black-cock is gregarious, but in winter the sexes keep in separate flocks and pair in the spring. The Black-cock is also known locally as the Black-game, Heath-cock, Moor-fowl, or Heath-poult. " •*.' j.: • i/l t *Jl Ai_l t\ fji\j\j+j JTL\J£~'1281.— BLACK COCK, ROASTED. (Fr.— Coq de Bruyere Roti.) Ingredients. — Black cock, butter, toast, gravy, bread sauce, No.iSo (see Sauces and Gravies), fried breadcrumbs.

Method. — Let the birds hang for a few days, for they will be tough and tasteless, if not well kept. Pluck and draw them, and wipe the insides and outsides with a damp cloth, as washing spoils the flavour. Cut off the heads, and truss as a roast fowl, cutting off the toes, and scalding and peeling the feet. Baste the bird well with hot butter, and roast it in front of a clear fire, or in a moderate oven, from 45 to 60 minutes, according to size, basting frequently with butter during the process. Dish orf a slice of buttered toast, and serve the gravy, bread sauce and breadcrumbs separately.

Time. — From 45 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 45. 6d.pcr brace. Seasonable from the middle of August to the end of November.

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:ock Widgeon. 2.- Dumb-bird. j.- Blackbird. v— Pintail 5.— French Partridge. 6.— Rabbil /.-Guinea Fowl 8 -Partridge Q. -Lark 10.— Thrush ii Black Game.

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RECIPES FOR rooKlNV, GAMK 737 1282.— CAPERCAILZIE, ROASTED. (Fr.— Capercailzie Roti.) Ingredients. — i capercailzie, £ of a Ib. of beefsteak, i or 2 slices of bacon, butter, good gravy, bread sauce (see Sauces and Gravies), fried br< rcress, salad-oil, salt and pepper.

Method. — Prepare and truss the bird in the same way as a chicken. Put the beefsteak inside the bird; it greatly improves the >ur, and may afterwards be used in the preparation of some cold meat dish. Cover the breast with slices of bacan, and roast in front clear fire or in a moderate oven for about i hour, basting frequently, n £ cooked remove the bacon from the breast, dredge lightly with r, and baste well to give the bird a nice brown appearance. S< h garnished with watercress, previously well \.ried and seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little salad-oil, and gravy, bread sauce and breadcrumbs to table in sauce-boa Time. Alx.ut i hour. Average Cost, 43. 6d. Seasonable from August 20 to December 20.

THE CAPERCALXIB on WOOD GROUSC (Fr. cat*rcmlsU). — Thi» bird, known also as the Cock of the Wood, was once abundant in the Highlands of Scotland, but became f or s t; efforts hare, however, been made to re-introduce it. and with soccers. The (;s the largest of the European gallinaceous birds, measuring some 3 feet in length, and v..!>. The female is about one-third the sue of the male, and differs consid< feathers, which are grey, variegated with brownish-black, and striped or s; with red or i. those of the head and tail being of a;s grey, the breast green, the wings brown spotted with black, and the tail feathers black white spots. Thr with a band otaaked scar '.

i lives apart from the female, except at thr pa:rii<g season. The nest of the caperthe ground, and its eggs are of a pale reddish-brown tint, spotted with brown. The capercalzie is found principally in i nous regions, and is common •. -.- • into England.

1283.— FRENCH GAME PIE. (Pate de Gibier.) Ingredients. — I of a Ib. of le. <>f a IK of fresh pork, i ! cock, pheasant, partridge, or other game, a slice of bacon, i large truffle linings, a Method. — Chop the meat (\ • <>rk) finely, or pass it thmAith aromatic add finely-chopped truffle. Cut the game into - a the prepared forcemeat; on this place a layer of pi<. then a s of bacon, and more forccme. me L Moisti n with a gill of with a good paste crust, decorate and c •:\ a moderate oven for about i$ hours. Serve hot or Time.— To bake, about i$ hours. Average Cost, 43. 6d. to 6s. 1284.- GAME, ANDOUILETTES OF. (/-V.-Andouilettes de Gibier.) Ingredients. — 4 ozs. off pcd cooked game, 2 ozs. of; H II

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chopped cooked ham, 2 ozs. of butter, i dessertspoonful of flour, 3 finely-chopped mushrooms, i finely-chopped shallot, i teaspoonful of chopped parsley, fried parsley, a pig's caul, meat glaze, £ a gill of stock (about), i egg, tomato or piquante sauce, lemon-juice, salt and pepper, nutmeg.

Method. — Heat £ an oz. of butter in a small stewpan, fry the shallot slightly, stir in the flour, and when lightly browned add the stock and boil well. Put in the game, ham, mushrooms, parsley, the yolk of the egg, a few drops of lemon-juice, a pinch of nutmeg, salt and pepper to taste, stir over the fire until well mixed and thoroughly hot, then spread on a plate to cool. Brush the inside of 8 or 9 oval paper cases with butter, and fry sufficient parsley to form little beds for each case. Mould the game preparation into oval or cork-shaped pieces of suitable size, enclose them in pieces of caul, previously washed and well-dried, and seal the ends with a little white of egg. Heat the remaining i£ ozs. of butter in a saute-pan, fry the andouilettes until nicely browned, then brush them over with warm meat glaze, and place them on the top of the fried parsley in the paper cases. Arrange neatly in an entree dish, and serve the sauce in a sauce-boat. Time. — About i hour altogether. Average Cost is 9d. Sufficient for 5 1285.— GAME CUTLETS. (See Pheasant Cutlets.) 1286.— GAME, GARNISH FOR.

The usual garnish for roast game consists of watercress and crisply fried potatoes, the latter being usually stamped out into small thin slices, or cut into julienne strips. Mushrooms, truffles and many other ingredients are used to garnish a salmi of game. See " Wild Duck, 1287.— GAME, HASHED. (See Wild Duck, Salmi of.) 1288.— GAME IN ASPIC JELLY. (Fr.— Gibier en Aspic.) Ingredients. — Cold cooked game, hard-boiled eggs, thin strips of lean cooked ham, aspic jelly.

Method. — Rinse a plain mould with cold water, cover the bottom with a thin layer of liquid aspic, and, when set, decorate with stamped-out pieces of ham and white of egg. Fix the decorations with a little aspic, and as soon as it has stiffened, add small pieces of game, previously seasoned and freed from skin and bone. Leave plenty of space to be filled with jelly, and let the jelly covering one layer of game become quite set before adding another. Let the mould remain on ice, or in a cool place until wanted, then turn out and serve.

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1289.— GAME PIE. (Sec French Game Pie and Raised Pie.) 1290.— GAME, PUREE OF. (Fr.— Puree de Gibier.) Ingredients. Cold game, butter, gravy, cream, salt and pepper. Method. — Remove the bones, and simmer them in a little water for at Ira^t i hour, when gravy is not at hand. Chop the flesh of the 1 mnd it in a mortar until smooth, moistening gradually with a little good gravy and oiled butter, and pass through a wire siSeason to taste, stir in a little cream, turn the preparation into well butt m ike thoroughly hot, then serve.

1291.— GAME, TO KEEP FROM TAINTING.

In cold, frosty weather game may be hung for 2 or 3 weeks in an ord; ! T without lu>< < >mim' but when the atmosphere care should be taken to hang it in a w< 11 irrably where there is a current of air. The rotection from flies, but it a good s; of pepjxir, which usually serves to keep away these potts, • r> Gmovt* (La**** Sctiocm*). called also the Moor-cock and Gor-eock. to plentiful m the o( the northern counties of England, and also in Wale* and the Highlands of Scotland, and appears to be.Irked and speckled with black. The red grouse to a wild and timid bird, and lives in flork* average weight to about 19 ox.; that of the female to somewhat be*. te flavour. The red grouse to subject to the epidemic disease, known as 1292.— GAME, TO REMOVE TAINT FROM.

As soon as there is the least evidence of taint, remove the feathers and draw the l>ird>.,md v.a--h them ifl \\ith plenty of salt and a littl- If badly tainted, repeat the process 2 or 3 times, Dry thoroughly before cooking.

The t.; moved by putting some fresh i in muslin, ic crop before cooking, which must l>e removed before the birds arc served. When charcoal it m. iv easily be made by placing wood in a hot oven until it is burnt through.

1293.— GROUSE PIE. (Fr.— Pat6 de Coq de Bruyere.^ Ingredient*. — 2 grouse, I Ib. of rump steak, £ pint of good stock, eaky bacon, 2 hard-boiled-eggs, salt and pepper, iste.

Method. Cut the l.irds into nea.md remove i parts Savooi iall thin « -s. Line the bottom of

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a pie-dish with slices of meat, cover with a layer of grouse, add a few strips of bacon and slices of egg, and season well with salt and pepper. Repeat until the materials are used, add stock to |- the depth of the dish and cover with paste (see Veal Pie, No. 798). The pie must be baked about i£ hours; for the first \ hour in a hot oven to make the paste rise, and afterwards in a lower temperature in order that the birds and meat may be sufficiently cooked. Meanwhile simmer the necks and any trimmings of the birds there may be in the remainder of the stock, strain, season to taste, and pour it into the pie before serving. When about f baked the pie should be brushed over with yolk of egg. When a more highly-seasoned dish is desired, a flavouring of parsley, shallot and mushrooms, all finely-chopped and mixed together, should be added to the meat.

Time. — To bake, about i|- hours. Average Cost, from 43. 6d. to 53. Seasonable from August 12 to December 10.

GROUSE (Fr. coq'de bruyere). — Under this general term are included several species of game birds called respectively black, red, wood and white grouse. They all form the type of a large family Tetraonidae, which includes the genus Tetrao, or the grouse. The characteristic mark of the grouse is a naked band, frequently of a red colour, which takes the place of an eyebrow; the nostrils are feathered, the bill is short and broad, the wings rounded, the tarsi feathered and the toes long. Grouse live in families in forests, moors and barren mountainous regions, feeding on the buds and berries of mountain trees and the tips of heather. The male birds are polygamous. Grouse are much esteemed as game birds. They are subject to " grouse disease," to which large numbers fall victims at particular seasons. It is of an epidemic and febrile character, and in some cases takes the form of acute inflammation of the respiratory mucous membrane.

1294.— GROUSE, ROASTED. (Fr.- Coq de Bruyere Roti.) Ingredients. — A brace of grouse, 2 slices of toast, butter, good brown gravy, bread sauce, No. 180 (see Gravies and Sauces), fried breadcrumbs, bacon.

Method. — Let the birds hang in a cool dry place for 3 or 4 days. When ready for use, pluck, draw, and truss them in the same manner as roast chicken. Tie over each breast a thin slice of bacon, and roast before a clear fire from 30 to 35 minutes, basting frequently with butter. When nearly done remove the bacon, dredge with flour, and baste well to give the birds a nice brown appearance. Toast the bread lightly, and when the birds are about f cooked, put it into the dripping-tin to catch the gravy that drops from them. Dish on the toast, and serve the gravy, bread sauce and bread crumbs separately.

Time. — From 40 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, from 43. the brace.

Seasonable from August 12 to December 10.

THE RUFFLED GROUSE. — This bird is a native of North America, and is so named from the curious velvet-black tufts of feathers on its shoulders. The plumage of the back is a rich chestnut, and its tail is grey, barred with black.

THE PINNATED GROUSE, also called the Prairie Hen, frequents the open desert plains of North America. The male has two winged- like appendages on the neck, covering two loose orange-coloured sacs which the bird can inflate at pleasure. Its plumage is brown, marked with black and white. THE SAND GROUSE, (Pterocles bicinctus), is chiefly an inhabitant of the warm sandy regions of Africa and Central Asia. It is longer in the legs than the ordinary grouse, and the tarsi are covered with feathers, the toes are short and connected at the base by a membrane. The wings and tail are pointed. The colour of the sand grouse is of a sandy hue, whence its name, resembling the sands of the desert where it dwells. A vast flock of these birds in 1863 and again in 1888, crossed the North Sea and visited Europe, settling in Britain and the Faroe Islands.

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1295.— LANDRAIL, OR CORN-CRAKE, ROASTED.

Ingredients. — 3 or 4 landrail, butter, fried breadcrumbs. Method. — Pluck and draw the birds, wipe them inside and out with a damp cloth, and truss them in the following manner: Bring the head round under the wing, and the thighs close to the sides; pass a skewer through them and the body, and keep the legs straight. Roast the birds before a clear fire, keep them well basted, and serve with fried breadcrumbs, with a tureen of brown gravy. If preferred, bread sauce may also be sent to table with them.

Time. — 12 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain, being seldom sold. Sufficient for a dish. Seasonable from August 12 to the middle of Septeml > \MDRAIL OR CORN-CRAKE (Fr. rait de ge*rt).—1\\i* bird,Cr« pratfnsis, belongs to the family RaUutae, or the rails, and is of a reddish- brown colour, marked with black or dark trmvu. Its bill is thick and shorter than its head, the wings are short, and thr bird flies in a heavy embarrassed xhls on the fround it can ban! < a second time, ami it i.md depends more on the fleetness of • ongth of its wings. Its singular heard when the grass begins to sheltoi:

.t. The bird, however, i* seldom sern. for •• skulks among.-«t portion of the herbage, and runs so nimbly through it. doubling and winding ii direction -ry difficult to get near to it. Marshy meadows and cor •ridrai!. where it feeds principally on worms, slugs and insects, of wi::rnbers. The landrail b a migratory bird, and makes its appearance in England during I May, about the same It l.-aves this:> the autumn, a- rrn parts <•! 11* African coasts of th« tnean duriiiL • Thecorn-cr n; to the country is also secu in large numbers in the Isle of Angleva. Its fk-sh is much esteemed. 1 296. -LEVERET, ROASTED. (Fr.-Levraut Roti.) Ingredients. —2 leverets, butter, flour.

Method. — Leverets should be trussed in the same manner as a hare, but they do not require Roast them before a clear fin ted all the time they are cooking. A few minutes dredge them lightly with flour.

•he- dish, and send them to table with red currant j Time. 1 o 50 minutes. Average Cost, about 43. Seasonable to August.

1297.— LEVERET, TO DRESS. (Sec Leveret Roasted.) 1 298. -ORTOLANS, ROASTED. (Fr.— Ortolans Rotis.) Ingredients. — Ortolans,.on, bay-leav.

:, brown -r.ivv. No. 164 (sfe Gravies), fried broaden; Method. — Remove the head, neck and crop, but let the trail remain. but trr. rover the breast of t, and tic over them thin: steel skewer, running it through the i in front of a quick tire for about 10 minutes. Baste the birds almost continuously with hot butter, and put

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the toast under them to catch the drippings from the trail. When cooked, remove the skewers and strings, but, if liked, the bacon may remain and be brushed over with warm glaze. Serve the birds on the toast, garnish with watercress, and send the gravy and breadcrumbs to table separately.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. each. Seasonable from March to May.

1299.— PARTRIDGE, BROILED. (Fr.— Perdreaux Grilles.) Ingredients. — Partridges, salt and cayenne to taste, a small piece of butter, brown gravy or mushroom sauce.

Method. — Pluck, draw and cut the patridges in half, and wipe the insides thoroughly with a damp cloth. Season the birds with salt and cayenne, broil them over a very clear fire, and dish them on a hot dish; rub a smali piece of butter over each half, and send them to table with brown gravy or mushroom sauce.

Time. — From 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, from 33. 6d. a brace. Seasonable from September i to February 12.

1300.— PARTRIDGE, ESCALOPES OF. (Fr.— Escalopes de Perdreaux.) Ingredients. — i partridge, 2 slices of bacon, £ of a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces), £ a pint of stock, i small onion, i carrot, £ a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf). For the farce or stuffing: 4 ozs. of finely-chopped cold roast partridge, 2 ozs. of raw ham or bacon cut into narrow strips, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, i tablespoonful of breadcrumbs, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, i raw egg, i hard-boiled egg, a good pinch each of nutmeg and powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper.

Method. — Cut the bird down the back, and remove all the bones. Mix the minced partridge, suet, breadcrumbs, parsley, herbs and nutmeg together, season well with salt and pepper, and bind with the raw egg. Flatten the partridge on the board, season the inside with salt and pepper, spread on half the farce, on the top of which arrange slices of egg and strips of bacon. Season well with salt and pepper, spread on the remainder of the farce, draw the two sides together, forming it as much like a roll as possible, and sew securely with strong cotton. Slice the vegetables, and place them in a stewpan with the 2 slices of bacon on the top. Wrap the bird in buttered paper, lay it on the top of the bacon, cover closely, and cook gently for about i\ hours. When ready to serve, remove the paper and string and cut the roll into slices about \ an inch in thickness. Arrange the escalopes in 2 close rows on a potato border, and strain the hot sauce over. Variety may be introduced by dishing the escalopes in a circle, and

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• filling the centre with a puree of spinach or mushrooms. When more convenient, veal may be used for the farce instead of cold partridge. Time. — To cook, about i£ hours. Average Cost, 35. 6d. to 45.

Seasonable from September i to February 12.

THE PARTRIDGE (Fr. perdrix). — This bird is found in nearly all the temperate countries of Europe, in North Africa and in certain parts of Asia, and is abundant as a game-bird in En\*l mil. •-••d lor its instinct in the preservation of its young. An eminent writer and naturalist says: " I have seen it often, and once in particular I saw an extraordinary instance of an old bird's solicitude to save its brood. As I was hunting with a small pointer, the dog ran on a brood ~:nall partridges; the old bird cried, fluttered, and ran tumbling along just before the dog's nose, till she had drawn him to a considerable distance, when she took wing and Hew further <>1T, but not out of the field. On this the dog returned to me, near the place where the young ones lay concealed in the grass, which the old bird no sooner perceived than she flew back to us, settled iust before the dog's nose again, and by rolling and tumbling about drew off his attention from her young, and thus preserved her brood a second time. I have also seen where a kite has been hovering over a covey of young partridges the old birds fly up to the bird of prey screaming and fighting with all their might, to preserve their brood." Partridges should be chosen young; if old they are valueless. The young birds are generally known by their yellow legs and dark-coloured mils.

1301.— PARTRIDGE, FILLETS OF, FARCED.

(Fr. — Filets de Perdreaux Farcis.) Ingredients. — 2 partridges, or the remains of cold roast birds, £ a Ib. of liver farce, No. 398, £ a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244 (see Sauces), i 07. of butter, egg, breadcrumbs, salt and pepper, puree of spinach or mushrooms.

Method. — Remove the fillets intact from the breast, bone the legs and wing, form into a good shape, fry lightly in hot butter, and press rn 2 dishes until cold. Then mask one side with the liver farce or stuffing, coat both sides carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until nici-lv browned in hot butter or fat. Arrange in a circle on a border of potato, strain the hot Espagnole sauce over, and serve the puree of spinach or mushroom in the centre. When cold birds are used, the preliminary frying and pressing are unnecessary, the farce being spread on the cold cooked fillets and completed as directed above. Time. — About 2 \ hours altogether, when fresh birds are used. Average Cost, 45. Seasonable from September i to February 12.

1302.— PARTRIDGES, HASHED. (See Wild Duck, I3r>3._PARTRIDGE PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Perdreaux.) Ingredients. — 2 partridges, £ of a Ib. of veal cutlet, 2 or 3 slices of streaky bacon, \ a pint of good stock, i oz. of butter, 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 tablespoon fills of coarsely-chopped mushrooms, preferably fresh ones, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ of a teaspoonfui of very finely-chopped shallot or onion, salt and pepper, paste.

Method. — Draw, singe, divide the birds into quarters and fry them until lightly browned in hot butter. Cut the veal into small thin slices, place them in the bottom of a pie-dish, season well with salt and pepper,

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and lay the partridges on the top interspersed with strips of bacon and quarters of egg. Sprinkle on the mushrooms, parsley and onion, season well with salt and pepper, add stock to £ the depth of the dish, and cover with paste (see Veal Pie, No. 798). The pie will bake in about ij hours; it should first be put into a hot oven to make the pastry rise, and afterwards baked more slowly. Several folds of wellgreased paper laid on the top of the pie will prevent the crust becoming too brown, and a glazed appearance may be given to it by brushing it over with yolk of egg when f baked. The remainder of the stock should be warmed and poured into the pie before serving. Time. — To bake, from i|- to i£ hours. Average Cost, 53. to 6s. Seasonable from September i to February 12.

1304.— PARTRIDGE, ROASTED. (Fr.— Perdreau Roti.) Ingredients. — Partridge, brown gravy, bread sauce (see Gravies and Sauces, No 180), fried breadcrumbs, slice of toast, butter for basting, i slice of bacon.

Method. — Pluck, draw, and truss in the same manner as a roast chicken. Cover the breast with a slice of fat bacon, and roast before a clear fire for about 30 minutes, basting frequently with hot butter. A few minutes before serving remove the bacon, dredge lightly with flour, and baste well to give the bird a nice pale brown appearance. Dish on the toast, and serve the gravy, breadcrumbs, and bread sauce Time. — To roast, about 30 minutes. Average Cost, 33. 6d. to 43. 6d^ the brace. Seasonable from September i to February 12. 1305.— PHEASANT, BOILED. (Fr.— Faisan Bouilli.) Ingredients. — i pheasant, i pint of oyster sauce, No. 310 (see Sauces) For the forcemeat: 12 sauce oysters, 2 tablespoonfuls of breadcrumbs, i tablespoonful of finely-chopped suet, £ of a teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, nutmeg, cayenne and salt to taste, sufficient raw egg to bind.

Method. — Beard the oysters, strain the liquor, and add both to the dry ingredients with as much of the egg as is necessary to moisten the whole. Truss the bird in the same manner as a boiled fowl, and stuff the breast with the oyster forcemeat. Wrap it in a well-buttered paper, put it into boiling stock or water, to which must be added, when it re-boils, i onion, i carrot, -| a small turnip, and a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf). Simmer gently from 40 to 60 minutes, according to size, then remove the trussing strings, and serve on a hot dish with a little of the oyster sauce poured over, and the remainder sent to table in a sauce-boat. If preferred, a puree of chestnuts may

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i. Chicken Cutlets. isserolc Steak. 3. Duck with Olives. 43 BB«

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SAVORIES AND SUPPER DISHES.

i. Savory Croutes. 2. Grilled Oysters. 3. Scotch Haricot.

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UH< IPKS FOR COOKING ('.AMI- 7.45 d for the oyster forcemeat, or the binl m.i -sed witliout forcemeat, and served \vith oyster or «,ce. Time. — From 40 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 43. each. Seasonable from October i to February 12. •. r (Fr. fatsan). — Accordir. - cal legend, this handsome l»irtl..•Argonauts on I • -or. common to all the southern parts of t! are also found in Southern A ip.m.

The i re wooded i Although it has lv iraplished, m-r is its flesh »; • - 1\-: "It heasants are met with, pos*keeping, as the damp of thisclimat. -. as long as *. The hens in general are th< -ir spun. ! be eaten when the N.

.nioiily six days or a week after they have been k good • l> it long enough; not much different from that of the common fowl or 1306. -PHEASANT, BROILED. ^/>. Faisan Grilte.) Ingredients. — i pheasant. 1> enne, sal nushroom, it able game sauce (see Sauces).

Method. \ be cut down the back, and flat tch-cock • • Ic of it must be brushed o\vr with. and sea- little ca\ fore ^ril one of the above-nanu-d Baud return to the nt until irnin^ OO. d brushing over u-inlv with warm luittrr. t as possi'i -end the to table in a sauce-boat.

Time. — To grill, from 25 to 31 > Average Cost, 35. to.; each. Seasonable from October i to February i j. 1307.— PHEASANT, BROILED. (Fr.—Faisan Grille.) Ingredients.— i pheasant. !;£, breadcrumbs, salt, ca\ pi<r hroom.M.. ).2 5 5 ),orother suitable sauce(s^ Sau< Method. -vd into n-.It and.

cs until cold.: iimbs. and broil 0 soon as t bs are set, brush over with warm butter, and i -he process of Krillin^. Arr,! l.il form on a hot dish, and ic sauce r Time. -To ^rill, from 15 to 20 minuter Average Cost, 33. to 43. 6d. Seasonable from October i to February u.

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! 308. —PHEASANT, CROQUETTES OF. (Fr.— Croquettes de Faisan.) Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped cooked pheasant, £ of a pint of thick brown sauce (see Sauces), 2 eggs, breadcrumbs, salt and papper.

Method. — Make the sauce as directed, add the minced pheasant, the yolk of i egg, salt and pepper, and stir briskly over the fire until the mixture thickens, then turn on to a plate. When cold, form into cork-shaped croquettes, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in hot fat. Drain well, pile on a hot dish covered with a folded serviette or dish-paper, garnish with crisply-fried parsley, Time. — Altogether, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the pheasant. Seasonable from October i to February 12. 1309.— PHEASANT, CUTLETS OF. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Faisan.) Ingredients. — i large pheasant, i egg, breadcrumbs, butter or fryingfat, % a pint of Espagnole sauce, No. 244, salt and pepper. Method. — Divide the birds into neat joints, and remove the bones, keeping the flesh as intact as possible. Season, flatten, and trim each piece of pheasant, fold the skin under, and form them into a good shape. Coat first with egg, and afterwards with breadcrumbs seasoned with salt and pepper, fry gently in hot fat or butter until sufficiently cooked and well browned, then drain well. Insert a small bone in each cutlet, put on a frill, and serve with the sauce poured round. Time. — To fry the cutlets, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, small pheasants from 33. to 45. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from October to February.

THE HEIGHT OF EXCELLENCE IN A PHEASANT. — If eaten when fresh the pheasant has no distinct, flavour. If, however, the bird be kept a proper length of time, distinguishable by a slight smell and change of colour, it becomes a highly-flavoured dish, occupying a middle distance in delicacy between chicken and venison. The exact time a pheasant should be " hung " is difficult to define, but the right moment a pheasant should be taken down is instinctively detected by a good cook. 1310.— PHEASANT, ROASTED. (Fr.— Faisan Roti.) Ingredients. — i pheasant, £ of a Ib. of beefsteak, fried breadcrumbs, bacon, brown gravy, bread sauce (see Gravies and Sauces), watercress, salad-oil, salt and pepper.

Method. — Pluck and draw the bird, truss in the same way as a roast chicken, but leave the head on. Put the beefsteak inside the pheasant; the beefsteak is intended to improve the flavour of the bird and keep it moist, and not to be eaten with it, but it may afterwards be used in the preparation of some cold meat dish. Cover the breast Math thin slices of bacon, or lard it with strips of fat bacon, and roast in front

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of a clear fire or in a moderate oven from 40 to 50 minutes, according to size and age. Baste frequently with butter, and when the cooking is about | completed remove the bacon, dredge the breast lightly with flour, and baste well to give the bird a nice light brown appearance. Remove the trussing strings, serve on a hot dish, garnished with watercress previously well washed, dried and seasoned with salt. pepper, and salad-oil, and send the gravy, bread sauce, and 1 breadcrumbs to table separately.

Time. — From 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 35. to 45. 6d. each. Seasonable from October i to Februar\ 1311.— PHEASANT, SALMIS OF. (Fr.— Salmis dc Faisan a la Modernc.) Ingredients, -i pheasant, } a pint of brown sauce, No. 233 (see Sauces), 6or 8 slices of goose liver, 6 or 8 slices of truffle.;: or 3 ozs butter 2 finely-chopped shallots, $ of a tcaspoonful of finely-chopp <1 lemon-rind, ^ of a teaspoonful of thyme, i bay-leaf, i glass of rt oi MaffMte wine, salt and pep Method. -Pluck, draw and truss the bird for roasting. Baste it \\ell with hot butter, roast in a quick oven lor 30 minutes, basting quently, then strain the butter used for basting into a stewpan. Di\ tlu- bird into neat joints, put the breast, wings and legs aside, and cut tlu- i '1 pieces, the butter in the stewpan, put in the small piece ^ant, add the lemon-rind, shallots, bay)«-.it and tlu w.-ll. then drain oft the butter, return the s of ph Heat up the brown sauce in a.id.l to it the;son to taste, and simmer for lominu then put in the pheasant Meanwhi:.t the bur hfl slices of li ! drain them well. Arrange the pheasant in a silver or earthenware casserole, or stewpan, interspersed with slices of liver and truffle, pour the sauce over, garnish with glazed croutes of fried bread and serve hot.

Time. — Altogether from i| to ij hours. Average Cost, 53. to 6s. 6d. Seasonable from October i to February 12.

1312.— PLOVERS, ROASTED. (Fr.— Pluviers Rotis.) Ingredients. — Plovers, a slice of toast and a slice of bacon for bird, butter for basting, brown sauce. No. 253 (see Sauces), I glass of port wine or cl atercress.

Method. Pluck and truss the birds, but do not draw them. I over with warm butter, tie a slice of thin bacon over each bp and roast in 0 20 minutes, according to tast Is on the spit feet: put slices ol mi to re« <>m the birds.

Keep them well basud with butter, and shortly before serving remove

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the bacon, dredge lightly with flour, and baste well to give the breasts a light brown appearance. Make the brown sauce as directed, and add to it the wine and the juice of i lemon. Serve the birds on the toast, garnish with watercress and quarters of lemon, and send the sauce to table in a sauce-boat. Oiled butter, made acid with lemonjuice, frequently accompanies these birds instead of the brown sauce. Time. — From 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 33. the brace. Seasonable from the beginning of October to the end of January. THE PLOVER (Fr. pluvier). — The name applied to various birds belonging to the Grattatores, or wading birds, found in all parts of the world. The Plover is gregarious, and usually frequents the marshes and the muddy borders of rivers, where it seeks its food, consisting of aquatic insects and worms. Some species, however, live on dry sandy shores, and others breed on the mountains. The plover has a short straight, slender and compressed bill; its legs are long and slender, with three toes in front,connected by a short web. It makes its nest on the ground. There are various species of Plover; that best known is the Golden Plover, called also the Yellow or Whistling, Green Plover (Charadrius pluvialis). It is about i foot in length, of a greyish-black colour, and variegated with yellow spots. The Grey Plover is somewhat larger than the golden species, is smaller than the woodcock, to which it is inferior in delicacy of flavour. The Dotterel (C. morinellus) frequents the coasts, and is dark brown and is marked with white patches; its eggs resemble those of the golden plover. Previous to dressing, plovers are kept until they have the flavour of game. Their flesh is esteemed by many, but it is not universally relished. 1313.— PLOVERS, TO DRESS. (See Plovers Roasted.) 1314.— POTTED GAME.

Ingredients. — Cooked game of any kind; to each Ib. allow 2 or 3 ozs. of butter, salt and pepper, cayenne.

Method. — Free the game from skin and bone, chop it finely, or pass it 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine. Pound in the mortar until smooth, moistening gradually with strong game gravy or stock, or, failing this, clarified butter. Season well with salt, pepper and cayenne, then rub through a fine sieve. Press into small pots, and cover with clarified butter.

1315.— POTTED PARTRIDGE. (See Potted Game.) 1 3 1 6. — PTARMIGANS, ROASTED. (Fr. — Pertrix blanche R8ties.) Ingredients. — Ptarmigans, butter for basting, a slice of bacon for each bird, fried breadcrumbs, good brown gravy, bread sauce (see Gravies and Sauces).

Method. — Let the birds hang in a cool dry place for 3 or 4 days. When ready for use, pluck, draw and truss them in the same manner as roast grouse. Tie over each breast a slice of fat bacon, and roast before a clear fire from 30 to 35 minutes, basting very frequently with butter. Wnen about £ cooked remove the bacon, dredge lightly with flour, and baste well to give the birds a nice appearance. Dish on the toast, which should be previously put into the dripping-tin to

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cat drops from the birds, and serve the bread s..ind gravy separ^ Time.- From;<> to;v; minutes. Average Cost, from 25. to 5*. the l>r.ixe. Seasonable from September to April. THE PTARMIGAN, o* WHITE GRotisK (Fr. ptarmigan).— The pt.irmiR.in (l^agopus vutc::.-*t of our !•:• 1-y having its l<?i;- r-i.r.d. It • s its name from t sage mottled with black, chan ttie mountainous districts at Scotland and Norway, aiv also found in Greenland. In weight it averages from 8 or. to 10 ox. When young the ptat and differs but little in flavour from the common grouse. In winter th< Tinman flies in flocks and feeds on the wild vegetation of the hill*, which imparts to its flesh a but not an altogether unpalatable taste. It is dark-coloured, and somewhat resenibl. hare in flavour, and is much relished and sought after by some sportsmen. 1317.— QUAILS, ROASTED. (Fr.— Cailles Roties.) Ingredients.— •<> of f.it l.us there are birds, good bn r for bas:

Method. — Thick th- • move t! rop. bin traaL l r \\itli \\.um but tho k-.if. Atl body of each bii: t from i 'i hot butter. \Vlt.-n tt.okt •':.iiid \ i: • d or no' • uld be brushed ov irm sluuild i put it drops from the 1 with watercress, and send; uccTime. u to 1 5 minutes. Afcrage Cost, is. each. Seasonable i Sept en:' I3I8.-QUAILS, STUFFED. (Fr.-Cailles Farcies.) Ingredients. — < No. 398 (sec Forcem e No. 2$5 ( os), finely-chopped trufil.

Min, 2 ozs. of but of egg, pork caul, salt and pepper. Method. — Bon spared farce.

• a good shape, and one with a band ot b-.i t the bu' i, baste the birds:em n from 15 to 20 minutes, b while, wash the c.iul in salt and wat ' «'u( it into pieces to contain half a bird. Split the birds in h.ilvs with a hot. enfold each halt in a piece of caul, brush over with white IK! sprin!

truffl.-.

them with a buttered paper T«> minutes.

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Dish in a close circle on a potato border, alternating the colours, fill the centre with asparagus points, peas, flageolets, or puree of spinach, and pour the hot Madeira sauce round. If preferred, the birds, instead of being sprinkled with ham and truffle, may be simply wrapped in caul, cooked for 10 minutes, then brushed over with warm glaze, and served in paper cases.

Time. — About £ an hour to cook. Average Cost, 9d. to is. each. Seasonabla, from September to February.

THE QUAIL (Fr. caille). — The quail is found in almost all the countries of Europe, and is widely distributed in North Africa, India, China and North America. It is a bird of passage, and immense flocks traverse the Mediterranean Sea from Europe to Africa in the autumn, returning again in the spring, frequently alighting in their passage on many of the islands of the Archipelago which they almost cover with their vast numbers, and are taken in great quantities. The quail arrives in Britain in May, and migrates southwards in October. The male arrives first, and appears to cry for its mate by a peculiar whistling note. The colour of the plumage is brown on the upper parts of the body, with lighter and darker markings. The under parts are of a yellowish shade. Its wings are rounded, the tail is short, and the tarsi are destitute of spurs. Its average length is 8 inches. Its eggs are of a light-greenish tint. It is a very pugnacious bird, and in classical times " quail fights " were an amusement of the Greeks and Romans. Among various species are the Coromandel Quail, the Virginian or American Quail, a larger bird than the European Quail, and the handsome little Chinese Quail, some 4 inches in length. The flesh of the quail is white and tender and delicate in flavour.

1319.— RAISED PIE. (Fr.— Pate de Gibier.) Ingredients. — Game of any kind, equal quantities of finely chopped veal and pork, veal forcemeat, paste (see Pork Pie, No. 1116), coarsely chopped truffle, stock that will jelly when cold (preferably game stock), egg, salt and pepper.

Method. — Mix the veal and ham together, season liberally with salt and pepper, and add i or 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped truffle. Divide the birds into neat joints, and remove all bones except those which are deeply imbedded in the flesh and difficult to detach. Make and mould the paste as described in the recipe for Pork Pie, and line the bottom and sides with veal forcemeat. Put in the prepared game, season each layer with salt and pepper, and intersperse small pieces of the meat farce, taking care to leave spaces to be afterwards filled with stock. Pile the game high in the centre, cover with a thin layer of veal farce, put on the cover, then follow the directions given for preparing, baking and finishing Pork Pie.

NOTE. — See French Game Pie, Grouse Pie, and Partridge Pie.

1320.— RAGOUT OF WILD DUCK.

Follow the directions given for Wild Duck, Salmi of, No. 1340, when utilising cold remains; otherwise first roast the duck for about 20 minutes (see Wild Duck, Roasted, No. 1339), cut it into neat joints, and afterwards proceed as directed.

1321.— REEVES, TO DRESS. (See Larks, Roasted, No. 1245, Larks, Stuffed and Roasted, No.

1246, and Wheatears To Dress, No. 1277.)

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1322.— RISSOLETTES OF GAME A L'HORLY.

Ingredients. —For the mixture: 6 tablcspoonfuls of any kind of game, £ of a pint of thick brown sauce (see Sauces), i egg, salt and pepper. For the batter: i:>oonfuls of flour, I tablespoonful of milk, $ a teaspoonful of salad-oil, salt to taste.

Method. Heat the sauce in a small stewpan, put in the minced game, egg and seasoning, stir briskly over the fire until the mixture thickens, turn on to a plate to cool. Mix the flour, milk, salt, salad-oil and yolk of c£g smoothly together, put it aside for about £ an hour, and to use lightly add the white of egg previously whipped to a stiff frot'i. 1 ne preparation into pieces about the size of a large walnut, dip them into the batter, and fry in a deep pan of hot fat until nicely bnnMicd. Drain \\ in.1 pyramid.il form on a folded s '-per, garnish with crisply-fried parsley, tot.

Time.— From i| to 1} hours. Aftragt Cost, 6d., <. -\dusi\t • ut the game. 1323. -ROOK PIE.

Ingredients. — 6 young rooks, | of a Ib. of rump steak, | of a Ib. of 1 \ a pint of stock, salt and pepper, paste.

Method. -Skin the birds without ph. !>y cutting th. lis, and dr.iu vcr the body and head. Draw the I.IK! usual manner, remove the necks and backs, and split the birds down the 1 \rrange them in a deep pie-dish, co breast with thin strips of steak, season well with salt and pep; rsperse small pieces of butter, and add as much stock as will J till the dish. Cover with paste (st i'ie), and bake from ij to 2 hours, for J hour in a hot oven to make the paste rise, and afterwards more Jowly to allow the birds to become thoroughly cooked. When the pie is about J baked, brush it over with yolk of egg to glaze the crust, and, before serving, pour in, through the hole ic top, t! of the stock.

Time. — To bake, from ij to 2 hours. Average Cost, uncertain, as they are seldom sold. Su file lent for 5 or 6 persons. THE ROOKS are wild birds, found abundantly in most parts of Britain and Ireland. They live • «mg bird* are eaten, generally being shot almost before they take to the wing. The backbones and adjoining flesh is always removed, as these parts have a strong, bitter taste, which soon contaminate* the rest of the flesh.

1 324.- RUFFS, TO DRESS. (Sec Larks, Roasted, No. 1245, Larks, Stuffed and Roasted, No.

1246, ami Wheatears, To Dress, No. 1277.

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1325.— SNIPE, ROASTED. (Fr.— Becassines Roties.) Ingredients. — Snipe, toast, bacon, good gravy (see Gravies), watercress, butter for basting.

Method. — These birds, like the ortolan, plover and woodcock, are dressed without being drawn. They are trussed in the same way as other birds for roasting, but the head is skinned and left on, the long beak of the bird being passed through the legs and body instead of a skewer. Brush them over with warm butter, tie a thin slice of fat bacon over each breast, and hang them on the spit feet downwards. Put the toast under them to catch the drippings from the trail, baste frequently with butter, and roast them for about 15 minutes, or less if preferred very much underdone. Dish on the toast, garnish with watercress, and serve the gravy in a sauce-boat.

Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 33. 6d. the brace. Seasonable from November to February.

THE SNIPE (Fr. becassine) is a migratory bird, generally distributed over Europe, and met with abundantly in most parts of Britain, where it frequents damp and marshy grounds, feeding on insects, small molluscs, and worms, which form its principal food. In the Hebrides and Orkneys snipes are plentiful, and are fattest in frosty weather. The snipe, which is a grallatore or wading bird is characterized by its long slender bill, and the peculiar bleating which it utters in the summer, changing its note entirely during the breeding season When the female is sitting upon her nest the male bird will keep on the wing for hours, mounting like a lark, and uttering a shrill piping noise; then, with a bleating sound, resembling that of a goat, it will descend with great velocity to the nest, from which it will not wander far. The eggs of the snipe, four in number, are olive-white, spotted with brown. The Jack snipe, very similar to the common snipe in appearance, and the smallest of the British snipes, only visits Britain in winter. The Great or Solitary Snipe is less common than the ordinary variety, which it resembles in colour, but is of a darker brown. When flying it spreads its tail like a fan. All the snipes are active cautious birds, and when their nests are menaced will affect lameness to divert attention.

1326.— TEAL, ROASTED. (Fr.— Sarcelle Rotie.) Ingredients. — Teal, butter for basting, good brown gravy, Bigarade sauce No. 226 (see Gravies and Sauces), watercress, lemons.

Method. — Pluck, draw, and truss the teal for roasting. Brush them over with hot butter, and roast before a clear fire from 25 to 30 minutes, basting frequently. Serve on a hot dish, garnish with watercress and quarters of lemon, and send the sauce to table in a sauce-boat. Time. — From 25 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 2s. each. Seasonable from October to March 15; in better condition after the frost has set in.

1327.— THRUSH, TO ROAST. (Fr.— Grive Rotie.) Ingredients. — Thrush, butter for basting, gravy, watercress, croutes. Method. — After trussing the birds, cover each breast with well-buttered paper, instead of bacon, which would impair the delicate flavour of the birds. Place them side by side on a skewer, baste well with hot butter and roast before a clear fire for about 10 minutes, basting almost continuously with butter. Serve on croutes, garnish with watercress, and send the gravy to table separately.

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Time. — To roast the birds, about 10 minutes. Average Cost, uncertain, thrush being seldom sold. Allow 2 to each person. 1328.— VENISON, BROILED POLISH FASHION.

(Fr.— Escalopes de Venaison a la Polonaise.) Ingredients. — 8 or 10 slices, £ of an inch thick, cut from a leg of venison, i£ ozs. of clarified butter, -J- a pint of \Ylouto or Allemamle sauce, -I a gill of wine vinegar, i tablespuonful of meat glaze or meat extract, 1 2 juniper !>«•:;>er.

Method. — Crush the juniper berries, simmer them for 10 or 15 minutes in tli.- vinegar, then add the meat glaze and sauce, and cook gently for 15 minutes. When ready to use, strain, return to the stewpan. season to •! >tir in \ an <>z. of butter. Flatten the slices with a cutlet-bat, and trim neatly. Heat the remainder of the butter in a saute-pan, and fr. >t venison quickly until nicely browned on both sides. Arrange them neatly in a hot entree dish, pour over the prepared sauce an<!

Time. — To fry, from 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. ^d. to is. 6d. per Ib. Seasonable frcm September to J '-.it may be l><.u-ht from June. H ER (Fr. daim).— These elegant and active animals, included under the name of d«stitute t.;enus Ccrvus, being represented by the stag or red-deer.. hed, according to the age of the deer, and are shed of the reindeer, the male alone is furm'sl ire used to designate t he first year is called a calf or kind-calf; the second year ued a knobbfr; the third year a ftroi year a sluggard, the fifth year a slag, • •ar a hart. 1 1 year a hin.i. in thr l.itti-: !>y permanent • moose, etc. The flesh of d. y esteemed.

1329.— VENISON, CHOPS AND STEAKS OF.

Venison chops are cut from the loin, and a thick sliee from the leg is usually served as a steak. They should be grilled over a clear fire, and s.-rved with a sauce made of equal quantities of oiled butt>; wine, and dissolved red-currant jelly. See Venison, Broiled i ion, and Venison Cutlets.

This is the name given to the flesh of some kinds of deer, and is esteemed very deli* ies of deer are found in warm as well as cold climates, and are in several • > man. This is especially the case with the Laplander, whose reindeer cou> a large proportion of his wealth. There — The reindeer uuharness'd in freedom can play,. o'er Odin's steep precipice stray, \i-olf to the forest recesses may fly, And howl to the moon as she glides through the sky. In Lapland the reindeer is \ •• horse, the cow, the goat and the sheep. From its milk i- produced cheese;: •;•* bowstrings and thre.i: its bones spoons; and its flesh furnishes food. I >t over-abstemious monks, represented by 1 U.dttr '. at a later period it was a deer-stealing adv.:; <>ve the " ini.ikespeare to London, to become a common player, and the greatest dram.ii^land we have the stag, an animal of great beauty, and much Hurope, and is supposed to have been onizitullv introduced into the rough 'itre, and th^ worxfc El aiul HI some

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I33o._ VENISON CUTLETS. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Venaison.) Ingredients. — Best end of the neck of venison, butter, fresh mushrooms, to each Ib. allow £ of a pint of good brown stock or gravy (see Stocks and Gravies), and i oz. of butter, salt and pepper. Method. — Skin and trim the mushrooms, put them into a stewpan with the butter, gravy, and plenty of seasoning, and stew gently from 35 to 40 minutes, or until tender. Divide the venison into cutlets about % inch in thickness, trim the bones at the end, but let the rest of the fat remain; flatten and pare the cutlets. Brush over with warm butter, season with salt and pepper, and grill over or in front of a clear fire from 20 to 25 minutes, turning occasionally, and brushing over frequently with hot butter. Place a small pat of fresh butter on the top of each cutlet, serve as hot as possible, and send the stewed mushrooms to table separately.

Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. per Ib. Seasonable from September to January.

THE ROEBUCK (Fr. chevreuil). — The common roe or roebuck (Cervus capreolus) is smaller in size than the fallow deer, and its antlers are smaller, with only three short branches. It is brown in colour, varied with grey and red tints. The roebuck is very graceful in its movements, and is a denizen of wooded and mountainous districts.

1331.— VENISON, HASHED. (Fr.— Capilotade d3 Venaison.) Ingredients. — Remains of roast venison, and to each Ib. allow 2 ozs. of butter, i^ ozs. of flour, i glass of port wine, i tablespoonful of red currant jelly.

Method. — Cut the meat into neat slices, break up the bones, put them with the trimmings of the meat, and any venison gravy there may be, into a stewpan, cover with cold water, and simmer gently for i hour. When water alone is used, a small onion and a bunch of herbs should be added. Melt the butter in a stewpan, stir in the flour, and fry until brown. Add the strained stock, stir until boiling, then put in the meat, wine, jelly, salt and pepper to taste, cover the stewpan closely, and let it stand at the side of the stove for about 20 minutes for the meat to become thoroughly impregnated with the flavour of the sauce, which must not, however, be allowed to boil. Serve as hot as possible, garnished with croutons of fried or toasted bread, and hand red currant jelly separately.

Time. — About £ hour, after the stock is made. Average Cost, 8d. to iod., exclusive of the venison. Seasonable from September to January, but may be bought from June.

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THE STAG (Fr. cerf). — The male of the red-deer is called the stag or hart, and the female a hind. The stag is much larger than the fallow-deer, and his age is indicated by his horns, which are round. \ of palmated, like those deer. During the first year the stag has no horns, but a short and 1 with a thin hairy skin. The following year the horns ?.re single and straight, and in the third year they have two antlers, three the fourth, four the fifth, and five th« This number is not always constant, f»r they are sometimes more and frequently are less. After the sixth year the antlers do not in-. •.ise; and though they may amount in number to six or seven 0:1 each side, the animal's age is estimated rather by the size of the antlers and the thickness of the branch which sustains them than by their variety. These horns are shed every year, u-". illy in the spring, and new ones supply their place. When the old horns have fallen off the new ones do not make their appearance immediately, but the bones of the skull are covered with a transparent periosteum, or membrane which enwraps the bones of animals. After a short time the skin begins to swell and to form a sort of tumour. From this presently rising from the head the antlers shoot forth from side to side; and in a short time, if th.:i»n. the entire horns are completed. The solidity of the extremities, ho\\ }>erfect until the horns have arrived at their full growth. Old stags usually shed their horns first, which generally the end of 1 the beginning of March. Those between five and six: s about the middle or latter end of March; those still younger in April, and the foun.; •)« middle or latter < ITiese rules, which are applicable generally. for a severe winter will retard the shedding of the horns. The hind has no:itted for being hunted than the stag. She takes the utmost carr of h.-r fawns -cretes them in the most obscure thickets, lest they should fall a prey to their mn: If, the dog. the eagle and the falcon. When the hind has voung she defends her offspring with the most resolute bravery. If pursued by the hunter she will fly before the hounds for h.t. then return to her fawn, whose life she has thus preserved at the hazard of her 1 332. "VENISON, HAUNCH OF, ROASTED.

(Fr.— Quartier de Chevreuil Roti.) Ingredients. — A haunch of venison, flour, brown sauce or brown gravy (see Sauce and Gravies), red currant jelly.

Method. Tin.- haunch is the prime part of venison, and its excellence •ly on th< proportions of fat and lean. An abundance of clear creamy-white fat of close may be generally accepted as an indication of the good quality of the meat. The I1 of the buck is more hiuh! <1 than that of the doo. Venison, like mutton, improves <l-rd by the condition of the hoof, which in an old animal is d: and rugged, whereas that of a vomit; one has a small and smooth cleft. In cold weather venison should be allowed to hang for about 14 days in a cool, place, but it must be carefully examined every day. The meat round the haunch bone first becomes tainted; it is therefore advisable to run a small sharp knife into the flesh; on being withdrawn, it has an unpl-Msant smell, the effected parts must at once be washed with warm milk and water, dried thoroughly, and covered thickly with pround nust, however, be washed off before cook little of Ixj sprinkled on the venison in the and th iped dry every day, decomposition may be con retarded. \\ !v for use, saw off the knuckle-bone, rub well all over with clarified fat or dripping, and enfold in a wellr. Make a Mm pa- to of common flour and water, put it joint, co uTeased paper, and tie secure Iv witi. D front of ue or in a moderate oven 1 3 to according to size and 1 Within \ an hour of serving remove the paper and j> ly with flour, and

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baste well with hot butter until the joint acquires a good brown colour. Serve as hot as possible, as the fat quickly cools and hardens, and send the brown sauce or gravy and the red currant jelly to table separately. The best end of the neck of venison, boned and rolled, makes an excellent dish, but other parts are not often roasted, the neck and shoulder being considered better adapted for stews, pies, and pasties.

Average Cost. — is. 6d. per Ib. Seasonable — buck venison from June to the end of September; doe venison from October to January.

THE REINDEER (Fr. renne). — This species of deer inhabits the northern and Arctic regions, and is thicker in the body and its legs are proportionately shorter than those of the red-deer. It is distinguished from other species by the circumstance that the female as well as the male possesses horns; those of the latter are, however, much larger and stronger. In colour the reindeer is of a duskybrown hue, with greyish under parts; these change to lighter tints in the winter. The reindeer is very hardy, keen of sight and hearing, swift of foot, its pace averaging nine or ten miles an hour, at which speed it can draw with ease a sledge attached to it with a burden of some 200 Ibs. Its strength and hardiness render the reindeer invaluable to the Laplander, to whom it is the substitute for the horse, sheep and goat. From its milk cheese is provided; from its skin clothing; from its tendons bowstrings and thread; from its horns glue; from its bones various articles of use, and its flesh furnishes food. Reindeer moss, a lichen which grows extensively in the sterile tracts of northern and arctic Europe and America, provides the reindeer with its chief supply of food during the winter season. A variety of the reindeer, the Caribou, inhabits northern An- erica, and is hunted for the sake of its skin and flesh, the layer of fat, called depouille, on the back of the male, being esteemed a special deHcacy.

1333.— VENISON IN A CHAFING-DISH.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of venison, the juice of 3 small onions, i egg, i oz. of butter, flour, i teaspoonf ul of finely chopped parsley, nutmeg, salt Method. — Pound the peeled, sliced and blanched onions in a mortar until reduced to a pulp, place this in muslin, and press out the juice with the back of a wooden spoon. Remove all skin, fat and gristle from the meat, chop it finely, and mix with it the onion-juice, parsley, and a pinch of nutmeg. Stir in the egg, season to taste, form into flat cakes the size and shape of a fillet, and coat them lightly with flour. Heat the butter in a chafing-dish, put in the steaks, and fry gently for 10 minutes, turning them once. Place the cover on the chafing-dish, continue to cook gently for 5 minutes longer, then serve.

Time. — To cook the steaks, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, 2S.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from June to January.

THE FALLOW DEER (Fr. davn). — This is the domestic or park-deer, is allied to the stag, but is smaller in size and differs in the shape of its horns. The colour of the fallow-deer is reddish-brown with white spots, and white inside the limbs and beneath the tail. Fallow deer are chiefly kept in parks, and roam in herds under the control of a " master deer." The male is termed a buck, the female a doe, and the young deer fawns. They are readily tamed and become very docile. Their flesh furnishes excellent venison, and a soft leather is manufactured from their skins. From the shavings of their horns ammonia is prepared, whence the popular name of " hartshorn." 1334.— VENISON, NECK OF, TO ROAST.

Method. — Let the neck remain attached to the shoulder until required for use, so as to preserve the appearance of both joints. In preparing, follow directions for Neck of Mutton,To Roast,No. 1054; and cook according to instructions given in Venison, Haunch of, Roasted, No. 1332.

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1335.— VENISON, SHOULDER OF. (See Venison, Haunch of, Roasted. Also Venison, Stewed.) 1 336.— VENISON STEWED. (Fr.— Ragout de Venaison.) Ingredients. — A shoulder of venison well hung and boned, a few thin of mutton fat (preferably off the best end of a neck), £ of a pint t, i J pint of stock, i a teaspoonful of peppercorns, £ a teaspoonful of whole allspice, salt and pepper, red-currant jolly. Method. — Pour the wine over the slices of mutton fat, and M them i for 2 or 3 hours. Flat- venison with a ci:

rolling-pin, season liberally with salt and pepper, and cover with the iutum fat. Roll up lightl i cuivly with tape, put it into a >ck and the bones from the i M the wine in which the mutton fat was s< -corns and al1 ml simn i 31 houi th the p 1 send it jrlly to t.il.lr m Time. — To cook t,on, from 3 to 3$ hours. Average Cost, 11 >. Sufficient t«r K> <>r i Seasonable:

;.c bought from Ji:

•. cry IOHR time, nlroductKMi l«c a question wbv -. to adorn the hills, dales, ferny brakes an<:

region* oi the whole world ruight be made to yield uadpiMDs of the iioblc rumiuuit, valu.il i •. c made t of breeding r parks, an • will mduEngland's rural scenery a new element of beauty, ami to English tables a fresh. choicest tical •elation of this intcrcstip* question wn ma<! ue Park 1:i that occasion a: •• species whose native home is the South A Uio. The noble beast was thus described: " He weigh- n he dropped; huge as a s bone not half active as a deer, stately in all hi* paces, perfect in form, bright in col- ^t dew-irons-sculptured horn. This eland in his lifetime strode majestic on the hill-side, where he dwelt with his mates and their progeay.all English born, like himself." Three pain of the same species of deer were left to roam at large on the picturesque slopes throughout the day, and to return to their home at pleasure. Here, during winter, they are assisted with roots and hay, but in summer isturc of the park; so that, in point of expense, they cost no more than::iapproached in the qu.ility of his rtc^' t grows to an enormous sice, and lays on fat wiUt as great facility as a true short-horn, wh; superior. T >ly fitir.

i—braised brisket, roast.

•teaks, filet saute, boiled aitchbo; these putoU has demonstrated that a new t> been added to the pr.^lni ts of the English park.

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I337-— VENISON, POTTED. (Fr.— Terrine de Venaison.) Ingredients. — 2 Ibs. of venison, £ of a Ib. of butter, i glass of port wine, salt and pepper, clarified butter.

Method. — Put the venison into a stewing -jar with a close-fitting lid, add the wine and £ of a Ib. of butter, and season with salt and pepper. Cover the top of the jar with 2 or 3 thicknesses of buttered paper, press the lid down tightly, and cook in a moderately cool oven for 2 hours. Drain well, chop finely, pound in a mortar until smooth, moistening the preparation gradually with gravy, and pass it through a wire sieve. Season to taste, press into email pots, and cover with clarified butter.

Time. — To cook the venison, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 35. lod. Sufficient for 6 or 8 pots. Seasonable from June to February. 1338.— WIDGEONS, ROASTED. (Fr. Sarcelle Rotie.) Ingredients. — Widgeons, butter for basting, watercress, lemons. For the sauce: £ a pint of brown sauce (see Sauces), i glass of port wine or claret, the juice of i lemon and i orange, salt and pepper, castor Method. — Truss the birds for roasting. Baste well with hot butter, and roast in front of a clear fire for about 20 minutes, or bake in a moderately hot oven for the same length of time. Keep them well basted with hot butter, and shortly before serving sprinkle lightly with flour, to give the birds a nice appearance. Meanwhile make the brown sauce as directed, add to it the wine, orange and lemon-juices, a pinch of sugar, salt, and pepper to taste, simmer for 15 minutes, then strain, skim, and serve with the birds on a hot dish, garnished with watercress and quarters of lemon, and hand the sauce Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, from is. 6d. each. Seasonable from August i to March 15.

I339-— WILD DUCK, ROASTED. (Fr.— Canard Sauvage Roti.) Ingredients. — i wild duck, \ a pint of good gravy, \ a pint of either Bigarade or port wine sauce (see Gravies and Sauces), flour, butter for basting, lemons.

Method. — Truss the bird for roasting, and if the fishy taste is disliked, cover a deep baking-tin to the depth of \ an inch with boiling water, a$d a tablespoonful of salt, put in the bird, and bake it ior 10 minutes, basting very frequently with the salt and water. Then

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dry, sprinkle lightly with flour, baste well with hot butter, and either roast in front of a clear fire for about 20 minutes, or bake he same length of time in a moderately hot oven, hasting frequently with hot butter. These birds should < served rather underdone, otherwise they lose their flavour. An orange salad frequently accompanies this dish. To make this salad the oranges should be cut across into thin slices, the pips, every particle of skin and pith removed, and the fruit arranged in layers in a dish, each layer being sprinkled with a little castor sugar, salad-oil and, if liked, a little brandy. Time. — About 30 minutes. Average Cost, from 35. each. Seasonable from August I to March 15.

1340.— WILD DUCK, SALMI OF. (Fr.— Canards Sauvages en Salmis.) Ingredients. — The remains of cold roast wild ducks, i pint of stock made from the bones and trimmings of game, i glass of port wine or \ ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i teaspoonful each of orai juice.in. I lemon-juuv:un strips of fresh orange-rind, I sin. ill onion, 2 or 3 sprigs of thyme, i hay-leaf, salt and pepper, cayei. Method. — Cut the rein. tins of the ducks into ne.it pieces, put the bones and trimmings, tin- onion, thyme and bay-leaf into a s: cover with cold water, and simmer for at least i$ hours. Mi-It the butter in a stewp.m, stir in the flour, cook until a brown roux or thickcnl. then add the strained slock, and stir until it boils. Add the pieces of duck, orange and lemon-juices, and wine, season to taste, cover the stewpan closely, and let it stand for about 20 minutes, where the contents will become thoroughly hot, but they must not be all« onvenient way of utilizing cold game of any description, and with a little variation of flavouring the above may be adapted to oase, pheasant, or partridge. Although the cold remains of -vith the addition of a good sauce, an excellent • Imi to be eaten in perfection should be made from birdcooked for the purpose. A salmi may be garnished with croutons of id or puf! paste, braised olives, button mushrooms or trut slices of lemon, or divisions of oranges are considered a suitable or wild (1 Time. About 2 hours. Average Cost, oxl. to iod.,e f the \\il 1 duck. Seasonable from August i to March 15.

t should be made to • ill flavouring mat used in >n, othi-iv.

hould possess.

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1341.— WOODCOCK, ROASTED. (Fr.— Becasse Rotie.) Ingredients. — Woodcocks, toast, bacon, butter for basting, good brown gravy (see Gravies), watercress.

Method. — The skin of these birds is particularly tender, therefore they must be plucked very carefully. They are trussed in the same manner as other birds for roasting, but the head is skinned and left on, the long beak of the bird being passed through the legs and body in place of a skewer. Brush over with warm butter, fasten a thin slice of fat bacon over each breast, and hang them on the spit feet downwards to roast. Put the toast under to receive the drippings from the trail, baste frequently with hot butter, and roast for about 15 minutes, or 4 or 5 minutes less when preferred very much underdone. Serve on the toast, garnish with watercress, and send the gravy to table in a sauce-boat.

Time. — About 15 minutes. Average Cost, from 33. 9d. to 53. per brace. Seasonable from August i to March 15.

THE WOODCOCK (Fr. becasse) is a long-billed bird of the same genus as the snipe, and migratory in its habits. It arrives in flocks jn Britain in March and April, returning to warmer climates in the autumn. It is also found during the winter in Aleppo and Japan. The woodcock is about 12 inches in length, and weighs about 12 oz. Its colour is brown, variegated with darker hues; the tail is black, tipped with grey. Its eggs are brownish- white, mottled with brown. The woodcock is a shy bird, and difficult to capture. It feeds at early morn and at dusk; its principal food are worms. The flesh of the woodcock is held in high estimation. This bird is common in North America and resembles the European woodcock in its plumage and habits, but is of a smaller size.

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REMOVES AND ENTREES. 4^^ •« i. CbaudiroJki oi Chicken. 1'i-coii. J. Rabbit in A>i>ic.

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i. Fried Rabbit. 2. Fricasse of Rabbit. 3. Cutlets with Peas.

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HARE AND RABBIT CHAPTER XXVI 1342.— HARE, BAKED, WITH TRUFFLES.

(Fr.— Lievre aux Truffes.) Ingredients. — I young hare, * a Ib. of tru files, 6 ozs. of finely-chopped piekled pork, 6 ozs. of finely -chopped veal, I finely-chopped si. i glass of shen salt and pepper, fat for basting, J of a pint of Espagnole SaMethod. — Prcj ire as directed in Notes on Trussing. Pound the iullot until mooth, and moi nwhilc with a little good stock, and trulile liquor when u^ing bottled truffles. Pafarce through a \\ire sieve, season to d add th-. Cut ^poonful aside to be n for tl. 'he remainder to the 1 the body of the hare, sew up the ope -o shape, and cover ick with 2 or; folds of greased paper. Baste well with hot fat, ly hot oven from I to i£ hours, basting fre<ji anil 9 > allow tl u Add the remainder of the truffle to the Espagnole sam !y.

Time. — Toba' ij hours, according to size. Average Cost, •s. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable fror rch.

• AND RABBITS.— Indication* of youth in a hare or rabbit are a narrow cleft In the lip, sh.irp.in.l MIL. -tli, I.IWN. s-.tt.»•.,! nun •.,r. \ •: i -.:.••-''. •:.-!••. nd MttCh Md Mtr rugged claws, are all signs of advanced age. When freshly killed, the flesh has a moist and bluish •M;- ••• •" 1343.— HARE, BROILED. (Fr.— Lievre grille.) Ingredients. ! f a roast har«-. enne, bu Method. into n- -, brush them over with;>cr. Broil over a clear browned, brushing o\ Gutter icanwhil'-. i good gra\-y or ai:CC.

Time, in rnnntes.

;• 1

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1344.— HARE IN CASSEROLE. (Fr.— Lievre en Casserole.) Ingredients. — i hare, i| pints of good stock, or equal parts of stock and good stout, 3 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, i onion chopped, 3 cloves. 10 peppercorns and a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), all tied together in muslin, salt and pepper, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats, No. 413), red-currant jelly.

Method. — Prepare the hare as directed and cut it into pieces convenient for serving. Heat 2 ozs. of butter, fry the hare until nicely browned, and pack closely in a casserole. Fry the onion brown, add it and the cloves, etc., to the hare, cover with stock, put on the lid, and cook gently for about 2^ hours, or until the hare is tender. Knead the remaining oz. of butter and the flour smoothly together, divide into small pieces, and add them to the contents of the casserole, about \ an hour before serving. Shape the forcemeat into small balls, fry in hot butter or fat, drain well, and add them 5 minutes before serving. Remove the herbs tied in muslin, season to taste, and serve in the casserole, with red currant jelly handed separately. Time. — From 2\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 53. 6d. to 6s. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. Seasonable from September to March. THE HARE (Fr. liivre). — This little animal is found generally distributed over Europe, and, indeed in most parts of the northern world. Its extreme timidity is its protection, for it is attentive to every sonnd, and its ears, both long and tubular, enable it to hear with great acuteness. I3y the construction of its large prominent eyes it possesses a wide range of vision. The hare lives upon vegetable food, but its flesh is considered dry, although it is esteemed in many respects to be superior to that of the rabbit, being more savoury, and of a much higher flavour. The hare usually feeds in the evening but during the day it adheres closly to its " form." 1345.— HARE, CIVET OF. (Fr.— Civet de Lievre,) Ingredients. — i young hare, £ of a Ib. of fat bacon, i pint of good stock, i glass of port or claret, 2 ozs. of butter, 2 ozs. of flour, 2 dozen button onions, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper, croutons of fried bread Method. — Divide the hare into small joints, cut the bacon into dice, fry it lightly in i£ ozs. of hot butter in a stewpan, then take it out and put in the pieces of hare. Sprinkle in the flour, and let it brown with the hare, which should be turned occasionally so that every part of it may acquire a good colour. Replace the bacon in the stewpan, add the stock and the bouquet-garni, season to taste, stir until boiling, then cover closely and simmer gently for about i£ hours. Meanwhile skin the onions, fry them until well browned in the remainder of the butter, and about 20 minutes before serving add them with the wine to the contents of the stewpan. Pile the pieces of hare on a hot dish, interspersed with dice of bacon and onions. Season the sauce to taste, and strain it over, and garnish the base of the dish with the fried croutons.

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Time. — About i] lunus. Average Cost, Ironi 6s. to 75. 6d. Seasonable from September to February.

1346.— HARE, CROQUETTES OF. (Fr.— Croquettes de Lievre.) Ingredients. — 6 tablespoon fuls of finely-chopped cooked hare, 2 volks, J. a ]>int <>t br<»\\n sauce (see Sauces, No. 2J3\ a pinch of (loves, salt and pepper, egg and I i \mg-fat, Method.— Mi ike the sauce as directed, add the yolks of eg^ lie fire until it tin 1'ut in the hare, add t salt and pcpp< i\ \vrll. and turn on to a plate. When cool, form int-> cork shaped pieces, coat with egg and breadcrumbs. and try in hot fat until I Main \\vll. and serve garTime.— To fry. from 4 to 5 tnmut- s. Average Cost, is. oxi. to 28. 3d. Sufficient for 4 p.rsons.

1347. HARE, HASHED. (Fr.— Lievre hash6.) Ingredients. — Remains of cold roast hare, j of a pint of brown sauce x\ i glass of port or claret, salt and pepper, red currant jelly. Method. — Cut the hare into neat slices, and put these aside the bones and trimmings arc being boiled for stock the brown sauce as (i n economy is an object, use equal of stock and stout instead of ad when fin:

Season the sauce to taste, put in the slices of hare, let them remain until i ly hot, tl \\ith red-currant j Time. -15 minutes. to reh«-.. •. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 6d. 1348. -HARE, JUGGED. (Fr.— Civet de Lievre a 1'Anglaise.) Ingredients.— i hare,: of good stock, i glass of port \\imor clai lespoonful of lemon-juice, 3 ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, d onion, 4 r _• peppercorns, a bouquet-garni iyme, bay leaf), saJt and pepper, veal forcemeat (see 1 0. red currant jelly.

Method.— Prepare the hare as directed in Notes on Trussing, and « • •ces about the size of a small egg. Heat 2 ozs. of butter in a:.c pieces of hare brown, then put them into a sit a little salt, the onion stuck with cloves, i glass < rmonI, and the stock previously made hot. • ir closely, and cook in a moderate oven for about 3 hours. I too hot the jar should be placed in a baking-tin surround, d

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by boiling water, or, when more convenient, the jar may stand in a saucepan of boiling water on the stove. About \ an hour before serving, knead the remaining oz. of butter and the flour together, stir into the stock, add the other glass of wine, and seasoning if necessary. Make the forcemeat as directed, shape it into small balls, fry in hot butter or fat, and drain well. Pile the pieces of hare on a hot dish, strain the gravy over, arrange the forcemeat balls round the base, and serve the red currant jelly separately.

Time. — To cook, about 3 hours. Average Cost, 53. 6d. to 6s. 6d. Seasonable from September to March.

1349.— HARE, POTTED.

Ingredients. — i hare, slices of bacon, good stock, a bouquet-garni (paisley, thyme, bay-leaf), 3 cloves, 10 peppercorns, i blade of mace, 2 bay-leaves, cayenne, salt and pepper, clarified butter. Method. — Prepare the hare as directed in Notes on Trussing, and cut it into rather small pieces. Line the bottom of a stew-jar or stewpan with slices of bacon, pack the pieces of hare closely on the top, add the herbs, cloves, peppercorns, mace, bay-leaves, and a liberal seasoning of salt. Barely cover with stock, lay slices of bacon on the top, cover closely, and cook very gently either on the stove or in the oven for about 3 hours, adding more stock from time to time. Remove the bones, chop the flesh and the bacon finely, and pound these in a mortar until smooth, moistening gradually with stock, previously strained. Season rather highly, pass the preparation through a fine sieve, and press it into small pots. Cover with clarified butter, and keep in a cool dry Time. — To stew, about 3 hours. Average Cost, 55. 6d. to 6s. Note. — Cold remains of hare may also be potted, a little good gravy or brown sauce being used to moisten the preparation. 1350.— HARE, ROASTED. (Fr.— Lievre Ingredients. — i hare, bacon, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), £ of a pint of stock, i glass of port, 2 ozs. of butter, i| ozs. of flour, % a teaspoonful of finely-chopped shallot or onion, \ a teaspoonful of finelychopped parsley, a good pinch of thyme, salt and pepper, red currant jelly, milk for basting.

Method. — Choose a young hare, which may be known by its smooth and sharp claws, and the narrow cleft in the lip. To be eaten in perfection it should hang about 8 days. When ready for use, skin, draw, and truss according to directions given in Notes on Trussing. Forcemeat is a matter of taste; if used, it should be pressed lightly inside the hare and the body sewn up with a needle and strong cotton before trussing. Carefully follow the directions given for trussing, then brush the hare all over with warm butter or dripping, cover the back with slices of

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fat bacon, and tie it down with siring in 3 or 4 places. Roast the i\\ front of a clear fire or in a moderate oven from i£ to 2 hours, basting it very frequently with milk, to which may be added, when economy is not an object, I or 2 ozs. of bur.awhile, rein* gallbladder carefully from the liver, put the liver into cold water, bring to the boil, cook for 5 minutes, then drain and chop finely. Melt the butter in a small stewpan, add the liver, onion, parsley and thyme, fry for 10 minutes, then drain, and return the butter to the stewpan. ilaMe, pound the liver, etc., in a mortar until smooth, and rub through a fine wire sieve. Re-heat the butter, stir in the flour, and cook he fire until a nut-brown roux:ed, then add the stock (if none is at hand substitute the milk used for basting), stir until it then add the liver preparation, season to taste, for 10 minutes, and just before serving put in the wine. When the hare is more than three parts cooked remove the bacon, to allow the back to brown, dredging - » ith flour, and bas li butter during the process. Remove the b:p on a hot with the liver sauce and red currant jelly separately. Time. — To roast, from iV to 2 hoars. Average Cost, 6s. to 6s. 6d. Seasonable from September to March, 1351.— HARE, ROAST BARON OF. (Fr.— Baron de Lievre Roti.) Ingredients. — i hare, larding bacon, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats),;>int of brown sauce (see Sauces, No. 233) I glass of port, red curjelly, butter or fat for basting.

Method.:i will be found most useful for a small dinner. to the shouKler-bladcs, alone i^ t the legs, "<1 into soup, potted, or made into a it to the \:h strong cot ton. • fully remove the skin from tl.

..-on. Wrap the h.ire in r or 3 fo:

• nd roast in front « fire or in a mr.< • n from.jo to 50 minutes, basting frequently with hot butter or dripping. When the cookr rly com} remo\ • irdoons to crisp, directed, add the wine, season to taste, and ser\ Soat. Time. — To cook, 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 6s. to 6s. 6d., inliare. Seasonable from September to the end of ch.

1352.— HARE SOUP. (Fr.— Potage de Lievre.) See page 166, Soup Scctio;

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1353. RABBIT IN ASPIC JELLY. (Fr.— Lapin en Gelee.) Ingredients. — Cooked rabbit, aspic jelly, hard-boiled eggs, shredded bacon.

Method. — Divide the rabbit into neat pieces. Cover the bottom of a plain mould with a thin layer of liquid, but cold, aspic jelly, and, when set, decorate with slices or sections of egg, and add more jelly. Arrange the pieces of rabbit in layers interspersed with strips of bacon and slices of egg, and fill up with jelly. Put aside until set, then unmould, garnish with chopped aspic, and serve.

Time. — To set the aspic, from 2 to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. to 33. Seasonable from September to March.

THE RABBIT. — This animal is an inhabitant of the temperate regions, but does not reach so far north as the hare, to which it is allied. The wild rabbit is a native of Great Britain, and is found in large numbers in Norfolk and Cambridgeshire. The flesh of the wild rabbit is darker than that of the domesticated species, and is by some considered to possess a higher flavour, although neither so white nor so delicate. It is also smaller in size and less fat than the tame rabbit. I354-— RABBIT, AMERICAN STYLE. (Fr.— Lapin a rAmericaine.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, £ of a pint of tomato puree, 1% ozs. of butter, i oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of dripping, stock, salt and pepper, lemon-juice, castor sugar.

Method. — Wash and dry the rabbit thoroughly, and divide it into neat joints. Heat the dripping in a stewpan, fry the rabbit until well-browned, and drain away the fat. Barely cover with stock, put on a close-fitting lid, and cook very gently until tender. Meanwhile heat the butter in another stewpan, fry the flour slowly until it acquires a nut-brown colour, then stir in the tomato puree. When ready, remove the rabbit and keep it hot. Strain and add f of a pint of the stock to the blended flour and butter. Stir until boiling, season to taste, and add a pinch of sugar and about i teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Put in the rabbit, make thoroughly hot, then serve. Time. — To stew, from i to i£ hours. Average Cost, is. Qd. to 2s. id. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March. 1 35S-— RABBIT A LA MINUTE. (Fr.— Lapin a la Minute.) Ingredients. — i young rabbit, 4 ozs. of butter, i good tablespoonful of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped mushrooms, \ dessertspoonful of chopped parsley, \ a saltspoonful of mace, salt and pepper, f- of a pint of boiling stock or water.

Method. — Wash and thoroughlydry the rabbit and cut it into neat joints. Heat 2\ ozs. of butter in a stewpan, put in the rabbit, sprinkle with

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salt and pepper, and add the mace. Put on the cover, which should fit as closely as possible, and cook gently for 45 minutes, turning the pieces over and basting frequently. Meanwhile melt the remainder of the butter in another stewpan, add the flour, stir and cook gently for a few minutes without browning, then add the stock. Boil up, simmer gently for 10 minutes, and pour over the rabbit when it has cooked for 40 minutes. Add the parsley, mushrooms, salt and pepper to taste, and continue to cook slowly for 20 minutes longer, or until the rabbit is tender. Serve with the sauce poured over. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. iod. to 2s. 2d. Sufficient for 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.

VARIETIES OF RABBITS. — Among the numerous varieties of rabbits, some are kept for their beauty, and are known as " fancy " rabbits. These are of foreign origin, and probably came originally India and Chi.-.a. The most valued are the lop-eared and Angora; other kinds, as the Belgian hare-rabbit, the silver-grey, the Himalayan and the Dutch raL: qualities of form or for the excellence of their flesh. For the table the ! rabbits are the their sire, ••• •:th whirh they arrive at maturity. The connix-n white, and yellow and white si -vies have white and delicate flesh, and when cooked in a similar way to the turkey are said t«> i: vria-wild r.ibbits.ur ilistmsruishei! who burrow underneath the e.uth. an pleasure ground of an estate, where they usually breed in great numbers, and v the hares; and the " hedgehog," of roaming habits. 1356.— RABBIT, BARBECUE OF. (/->.— Lapin Grille.) Ingredients.— i r oiled butter, salt and pepper. 1-or the sauce: J ills of good gr.'\y. i tablespoonful of lemon-jnice, i tcaspoonful of I-'renrh mustard. For the: lemon, fried parMethod. — Cut off the head, let \ It and watrr hour, and afterwards dry it thoroughly. Score the back an • i ason \vith salt an: coat liberally \\r or oiled butter. Heat up the gravy and other ingredients, i a for i hour, then again sprinkle the- rabbit \\ith salt and r. brush it over with oil or butter, and broil it over or in front of a clear fire. Turn frequently, and l>i \\ith oil or butter whenever it appears in th< !e into i.

dish up, pour over a little brown sauce, and garnish with spi fried parsley and sliced lemon.

Time. — To broil, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 9d. Sufficient for j; to 4 persons. Seasonable fromScptr Manh. THiCoHMOM OK WILD RABBIT.— This well-known rodent belong to the same family (I ffiori4tt\ r» the hare, but i* smaller in size, and its hind legs and ears are snorter. In the wil ! of the rabbit is a greyish-brown; the colour under domestication, however, changes f, to black, white or other shades. The fur is used for many purposes, as the the imitation of \wve costly lurs, etc. The rabbit is one of the most prolific of anii: in Australia and New Zeal as to become the B i* were once indthe,1 the Roman • * or " warrr:)- " in f i and are markets, as well as for their fur and skin.

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I357-— RABBIT, BOILED. (Fr.~ Lapin bouilli.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, i onion, i carrot, ^ a turnip, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 6 peppercorns, salt, onion sauce (see Sauces, No. 265), boiled or fried bacon.

Method. — Truss the rabbit (see Notes on Trussing), put it into boiling water; when the water re-boils add the vegetables cut into large pieces, the bouquet-garni, peppercorns, and a teaspoonful of salt. Cook gently from 45 to 60 minutes, according to the age and size of the rabbit. Remove the skewers, serve on a hot dish, coat with onion sauce, and send the remainder to table in a sauce-boat. Serve the bacon on a separate dish, unless small rolls are preferred, when they may be used as garnish. The liquor in which the rabbit was cooked may be served separately as broth, or afterwards converted into a white soup. Time. — From.45 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, is. pd. to 2s. Sufficient, one large rabbit for 4 persons.

1358.— RABBIT, CREAM OF. (Fr.— Cremede Lapin.) Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of raw rabbit, \ of a pint of THICK white sauce (No. 221), i small egg. salt and pepper, \ a pint of brown sauce (No. 233). Method. — Chop the flesh of the rabbit finely, or pass it 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, and pound it in a mortar until smooth. Work in the egg, add the white sauce, season well with salt and pepper, and pass the mixture through a fine sieve. Press lightly into 6 or 8 well-buttered bomb or other small moulds, steam gently until firm, and serve with the brown sauce strained over the dish. Time. — To steam the moulds, from 15 to 20 minutes. Average Cost, about 2S. Sufficient for 6 or 8 moulds. Seasonable from September to FECUNDITY OF THE RABBIT. — The reproduction of this animal has been the subject of wonder to all naturalists. It breeds seven times in the year, and generally begets seven or eight young ones at a time. If we suppose this to happen regularly for a period of four years, the progeny that would spring from a single pair would amount to more than a million. The rabbit, however, has many enemies, and its numbers are largely kept down by carnivorous animals of every description. As previously mentioned, in the time of the Roman power rabbits once infested the Balearic Islands to such an extent that the inhabitants were obliged to implore the assistance of a military force from Augustus to exterminate them.

I359-— RABBIT, CURRIED. (Fr.— Lapin au Kari.) Ingredients. — I rabbit, 4 or 5 ozs. of cooked rice, 3 ozs. of butter or fat, 2 onions, i apple, £ of a pint of stock, i tablespoonful of currypowder, i tablespoonful of flour, the juice of a lemon. Salt. Method. — Wash the rabbit, dry it thoroughly, and divide it into small joints; slice the apple and the onions. Heat the butter or fat in a stewpan, fry the rabbit until lightly browned, remove it, put in the onions, and when they have acquired a deep brown colour add the curry -powder and flour, and fry for 10 minutes. Now put in the stock, and when boiling replace the rabbit, add the apple, salt to taste, cover, and

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i.— Hen Wild Duck. a.-Wood Pigeon. v-Woodcock. 4.~Cock Wild Duck. 5.— Black Plover. 6.— Golden Plover. 7--Snipe. 8.— Pheasants. 9.— Hare. io.— Teal.

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simmer gently for i| to i£ hours. Before serving, add the lemonjuice and seasoning if necessary. Pile the rabbit in the centre of a hot dish, strain the sauce over, and serve the rice separately. Time. — From 2$ to 2\ hours. Average Cost, from 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient 1360.— RABBIT CUTLETS. (Fr.— Cotelettes de Lapin.) Ingredients. — 2 rabbits, liver farce No. 398, brown sauce (see Sauces), egg, breadcrumbs, butter or frying-fat, parsley. Method. — Cut off the legs and necks of the rabbits, and put them aside to be ait converted into a ragout or pie. Remove the flesh from the back of each rabbit, keeping it whole, and afterwards divide it into pieces of even and suitable size. Flatten them with a cutlet-bat, trim neatly, and fry gently for 10 or 15 minutes in hot butter or fat. Press between 2 dishes until cold, then cover one side kly with liver farce, and coat carefully with egg and breadcrumbs. Fry in a deep pan of fat until nicely browned, then drain well and serve garnished with fried parsley. Send the sauce to table in a sauce-boat.

Timj. — To fry, 10 or 15 minutes, and afterwards 6 or 7 minute-;. Average Cost, rabbits from is. 2d. to is. 6d. each. Seasonable from September to Ma1361.— RABBIT, DARIOLES OF. (Fr.— Darioles de Lapin.) Ingredients.—} a Ib. of finely-chopped raw rabbit, i oz. of panada, 2 tablespoon fuls of brown sauce No. 233, 2 tablespoonfuls of cream, I egg, salt and pepper, mushroom or oyster sauce. Method. — Pound the rabbit until smooth, add the egg, panada, salt and pepper to taste, and, when well mixed, pass through a fine wire sieve. Stir in the cream and brown sauce, press the preparation lightly into weU-buttcred darioles, and steam gently until firm. Unmould and serve with mushroom, oyster or celery sauce.

Time. '1 the darioles, from 20 to 25 minutes. Average Cost, is. Sd.. Sufficient for 6 or 8 darioles. Seasonable from September to March.

1362.— RABBIT, FRICASSEE OF. (Fr.— Lapin en Fricassee.) Ingredients. — I young rabbit, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, white stock, £ a pint of milk, 2 onions sliced, I carrot sliced, $ a small turnip. i or 2 strips of clcry shredded, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i blade of mace, 6 white peppercorns, salt and pepper. CO

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Method. — Cut the r -bbit into neat joints, an 1 after rinsi g in warm water, place them in a stewpan, and add just sufficient white stock to cover. Bring to boiling point, add the prepared vegetables, peppercorns and a little salt, cover closely, and cook gently for about i-|hours, or until the rabbit is tender, adding a little milk from time to time, to replace the stock. Meanwhile melt the butter, add the flour, stir and cook gently without browning, and put aside until wanted. When ready, take up the rabbjt and keep it hot, strain and add f- of a pint of the stock to the blended flour and butter, stir until boiling, and simmer gently for 10 minutes. Pass the vegetables through a fine sieve, and stir the puree into the sauce. Season to taste, replace the rabbit, make thoroughly hot, then serve.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 9d. to 2s. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March. 1363.— RABBIT, FILLETS OF. (Fr.— Filets de Lapin.) Ingredients. — 2 rabbits, larding bacon, a mirepoix (see No. 949), stock glaze, £ a pint of brown sauce.

Method. — Remove the flesh from the back of each rabbit (see Rabbit Cutlets), divide into pieces of suitable size, and lard one side of them in close even rows. Place the vegetables in a stewpan, add stock to nearly cover them, and lay the fillets on the top. Cover with a greased paper, put on the lid, which should fit closely, and cook very gently for about i hour, adding more stock from time to time. Put the fillets into a hot oven for a few minutes, to crisp the bacon, then brush them over with glaze, and serve on a hot dish with the sauce poured Time. — To braise the fillets, about i hour. Average Cost, rabbit from is. 2d. to is. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from September to March.

1364.— RABBIT, FRIED WITH TARTARE SAUCE.

(Fr. — Lapereau frit a la Tartare.) Ingredients. — i young rabbit. For the marinade, or sauce: } of a pint of salad-oil, i tablespoonful of chili vinegar, i tablespoonful of malt, vinegar, i finely-chopped shallot, 2 cloves, i bay-leaf, i blade of mace, salt and pepper, £ of a pint of mayonnaise sauce No. 201, i tablespoonful of coarsely-chopped pickled gherkins, egg, breadcrumbs, ' Method. — Bone the legs of the rabbit, and remove the flesh from the back in large fillets. Place them in a deep dish, pour over the marinade,

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and let them remain in it for at least i hour, turning frequently. Make the mayonnaise sauce as directed, and add to it the chopped gherkin. Drain the pieces of rabbit well, coat them with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in hot fat until nicely browned. Drain well, arrange in a pyramidal form on a hot dish, garnish with crisply-fried parsley, and serve the mayonnaise sauce in a sauce-boat.

Time. — From i£ to 2\ hours. Average Cost, 2s. jd. to 2s. oxi. Suffi1365.— RABBIT, JUGGED. (Fr.— Civet de Lapin.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, i pint of good stock, i glass of port or claret, I dessertspoonful of lemon- juice, 2$ ozs, of butter, i oz. of flour, i medium-sized onion, 2 cloves, 8 peppercorns, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), salt and pepper, veal forcemeat No. 413, redcurrant jelly.

Method.— Wash and dry the rabbit and cut it into neat joints. Fry in \\ ozs. of hot butter until well browned, and afterwards follow the directions for Hare, Jugged, p. 763.

Time. — To cook, about 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d. to 2s. 6d.

Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March.

THE RABBIT HOUSE. —To keep rabbits in good health, especially if they are valuable and of a pure and delicate breed, it • that the hutches should be properly constructed, sheltered from draughts, and protected from damp. If a number of rabbits are kept, a dry brickwork building. such as a stable or similar outbuilding, with good ventilation, may advantageously be used for this purpose. Around three sides of the building hutches in tiers should be arranged, the lowest tier being placed some few inches from the ground. The size of the hutches will be dependent upon the number of rabbits and the particular purpose for which they are required, but should not be less than 20 in. in width, constructed of white deal, with a gradual slope from the front to the hack of the hutch, the latter being provided with a rinc gutter. Each hutch should be divided into two section*, the smaller, about ore-third of the length of the hutch, serving a« a dark or sleeping compartment with an arched hole, made smooth to prevent injury to the fur of the rabbit when passing from one part of the hutch to the other. A double floor to the butch will conduce to the health and cleanliness of the rabbit. The lower floor should be constructed of pine, about i in. in thickness, and the upper floor made of half-inch laths, i in. apart, placed diagonally or at right angles to one another. In the case of " outside hutches " care must be taken that the hutches have a southern aspect, and are protected from cold and wet, but ventilation must not be forgotten, for pure air Is indispensable where many rahbits are kept; it should, however, be regulated in cold or wrt weather by the closing or shutting of opposite doors or windows. Where a large number of rabbits are kept for breeding and rearing for the market, a rabbit-court is the most advantageous for tint purpose.

1366.— RABBIT, LARDED AND BRAISED.

(Fr. — Lapin pique et braise.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, larding bacon, stock, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, 2 ozs. of dripping, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bayleaf), salt and pepper.

Method. —Wash and dry the rabbit thoroughly, cut it into neat pieces, and lard each piece by inserting thin strips of larding bacon. Heat the dripping in a stewpan, i • Slut quickly until lightly browned, and drain away the fat. Cover with stock, add salt and pepper to taste, and the herbs tied in muslin, cover closely, and cook gently from 1 1 to i £ hcr.i rs, or until the rabbit is quite tender. Knead the butter and Hour to-

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gether, and add it, in small pieces, to the contents of the Gtewpan about 20 minutes before serving. Serve with the sauce strained Time. — From i^ to if hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. to 2s. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March. 1367.— RABBIT, MARBLED.

Ingredients. — 2 rabbits, i Ib. of pickled pork or bacon in slices, stock, 2 hard-boiled eggs, i raw egg, £ an oz. of gelatine, -J- a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, •£ a teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley. Method. — Cut off the heads and necks, wash the rabbits, and let them soak for at least i hour in strong salted water. Pack closely in a stewpan, lay the slices of pork or bacon on the top, and barely cover with stock. Cover closely, simmer gently from i hour to i|hours, or until the rabbits are tender, and remove the flesh from the bones in as large pieces as possible. Chop all the small pieces of flesh as finely as possible, mix with it the herbs and seasoning, and half its weight in breadcrumbs, and finely-chopped pork or bacon, and moisten with egg. Cut the remainder of the pork or bacon into strips. Fry the livers and kidneys in hot butter or fat, drain them well, and when cool slice them rather thinly. Form the prepared forcemeat into small balls, drop them into boiling stock or water, and simmer for 10 minutes. Add i pint of strained stock to the gelatine, stir over the fire until dissolved, season to taste, and, if cloudy, clear with white of egg. When cool, pour a little into a mould, let it set, then cover with pieces of rabbit, interspersed with strips of pork or bacon, forcemeat balls, liver, kidney, and slices of egg. Repeat until all the materials are used, taking care to leave spaces to admit the stock, which must be added to completely cover the rest of the ingredients. Put aside until set, then unmould, and use as required. Time. — Altogether, about 4 hours. Average Cost, 35. 4d. to 45. Sufficient for i or 2 moulds. Seasonable from September to March. 1368.— RABBIT PATTIES. (Fr.— Pates de Lapin.) Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of either raw or cooked rabbit, 2 ozs. of ham or lean bacon, stock or water, salt and pepper, short crust or puff paste, i egg.

Method. — Cut both rabbit and bacon into rather small dice, season liberally with salt and pepper, mix well, and moisten with stock or water. Have ready some patty-pans lined with paste, fill them with the meat preparation, and put on the covers. Brush over with egg, and bake in a moderately hot oven for about 20 minutes, or until cooked if using raw meat. Serve either hot or cold. Time. — To bake, 20 minutes or longer. Average Cost, about is., in

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RECIPES FOR COGXIXG HARE AND RABBIT 773 addition to the rabbit. Sufficient for 12 patties. Seasonable from September to March.

FANCY RABBITS. — The chief points reouired by a fancier are respectively the graceful fall of the ears, the dewlap, the colour and marked point*, and the shape and general appearance. The ears should extend at least 7 in., measured from tip to tip in a line across the skull, and must also have a uniform and graceful droop. Sometimes the ears, instead of drooping down, slope backwards; a rabbit with this characteristic is scarcely admitted into a fancy lot, and is of little value. The next position is when one ear lops outwards and the other stands erect; this constitutes the half-lop. The forward or horn-lop is one degree nearer perfection than the half-lop; the ears slope forward and down over the forehead. Horn-lops are often perfect in other respects, with the exception of the droop of the ears, and frequently become the parents of yomuj ones which are perfect. In the ear-lop, the ears spread out in a horizontal position like the wing* of a bird when in flight Occasionally a rabbit drops one ear completely, but raises the other so nearly horiMy as to constitute an ear-lop. This variety is superior to all others except the perfect fulllop, and if well-bred and with good points is esteemed a valuable rabbit 'I he ears of the real or full-lop hang down by the side of the cheek, slanting somewhat outward in their descent, with the open part of the ear inward, and sometimes either backwards or forwards iJ of perpendicular; when the rabbit stands in an easy position, the tips of the ears tourh the ground, The hollows of a fancy rabbit of the first quality should be turned so completely backwards that only the outer part of them should remain in front; they should match exactly in their df'csiH, and should slant outwards as little as possible.

The dewlap, seen only in fancy rabbits when they have attained their full growth, is a fold of skin under the neck and throat, which commences immediately under the jaw.ind goes down the throat and between the forelegs, and projects in breadth beyond the chin. If perfect, it adds greatly to the beauty of the appearance of the rabbit The colour of the fur of fancy rabbits may be of various hues, provided these colours are arranged in a particular manner, forming imaginary figures or fancied resemblances to certain objects, such peculiarities of marking being denoted by distinctive designations.

rabbit must alto have other characteristic marks to be a perfect model of its kind. The tail must be of the same colour as the back and snout; there must be a black or blur ' on the back, known as " the saddle "; there should also be dark stripes on both sides of the body in front, passing backwards to meet the saddle and uniting on the top of the shoulders. These stripes form " the chain," and are to called from their resemblance to a chain or collar hanging round the neck.

Co:: w thoroughbred fancy rabbits will have all these markings clearly defined on the fur; but the more closely they approach to the pattern described, the greater will be the value il as relates to its colour. The beauty and consequent worth of a fancy rabbit depends, however, much on its shape, or what is styled its carriage. A rabbit is said to have a food carnage when its back is finely arched, rising full two inches above the top of its head, which must be held so low as to allow the muule and the points of the can to reach almost to the ground. 1369.— RABBIT PIE. (Fr.— Pat6 de Lapin.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, £ a Ib. of bacon or pickled pork, £ a Ib. of beefsteak, \ a pint of stock, salt and pepper, short crust or puff pu Method. — Wash the rabbit, di\i > small joints, cut the beef into small thin slices, and the pork into dice. Place these ingrcdi< in l.ivrr-, in B, season each layer liberally with salt and pepper, and J fill \\ithstock. Cover with paste (see Veal and Ham i No. 798), bake from \\ to 2 hours in a brisk oven until the paste has n and set, «vly. Before serving, add the remainder of the hot stock to tlu pie. When the pie is intended to be ••n cold, forcemeat balls and hard-boiled eggs will be found an imp:, and the appearance may be improved by brushing it.vith yolk of <. } baked.

Time. — T< orn ij to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 3d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

THE ANGORA RABBIT.— As its name implies, this handsome rabbit is a native of Angora, a city and district of Asia Minor, and noted for the long hair of the animals whirh live in this region, particularly the sheep, goats and cats, whose wool and fur are exceptionally fine in texture. The fur ol the Angora rabbit to long, waved and silky and is much valued as an article of commerce.

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1370.— RABBIT, PILAU OF. (Fr.— Pilau de Lapin.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, \ a Jb. of Carolina rice, 4 ozs. of butter, 2 large onions sliced, \\ pints of stock (about), salt and pepper. Method. — Wash and dry the rabbit thoroughly, and divide it into neat joints. Heat 2 ozs. of butter in a stewpan, add the onions, and cook gently until lightly browned. Wash and drain the rice, add it to the onions and butter, stir over the fire for about 10 minutes, then cover with boiling stock and simmer gently. Fry the rabbit very slowly in the remainder of the butter until well browned, and put it, and the butter in which it was fried, into the stewpan containing the rice. Continue to cook slowly for i hour, or until the rabbit is quite tender, adding, from time to time, just as much stock as is necessary to prevent the rice sticking to the bottom of the stewpan, meanwhile keeping the stewpan closely covered. Serve the rabbit piled on the Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 3d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March. THE HIMALAYA RABBIT. — Amidst the mighty Himalaya mountains, whose peaks are the highest on the globe, the pretty rabbit here portrayed is found; and his colour seems to be like the snow, which, above the altitude of from 13,000 to 16,000 feet, perpetually crowns the summits of these monarchs of the world.

1371.— RABBIT PUDDING. (Fr.— Pouding de Lapin.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, \ a Ib. of pickled pork cut into dice, flour, salt and pepper, suet paste No. 1671.

Method. — Wash the rabbit, cut it into neat joints, and put the head, neck, liver and kidneys aside, to be af terwards stewed for gravy. Mix together i tablespoonful of flour, i teaspoonful of salt, J of a teaspoonful of pepper; coat the pieces of rabbit with the mixture, and put them closely in a basin lined with paste, interspersing the dice of pork (see Beef and Kidney Pudding, No. 841). Nearly fill the basin with cold water, cover first with paste, and afterwards with 2 or 3 folds of greased paper, and steam for at least 24- hours. Turn out the pudding on a hot dish and send the gravy made from the head, etc. to table separately. Time. — To steam the pudding, from z\ to 3 hours. Average Cost, 2S. to 2S. 4d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. Seasonable from September to March.

1372.— RABBIT, ROAST WITH ESPAGNOLE SAUCE.

(Fr.— Lapin Roti a TEspagnole.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, veal forcemeat (see Forcemeats), bacon, £ of a pint of Espagnole sauce No. 244.

Method. — Stuff the rabbit with the forcemeat, sew up the opening, and truss according to directions given on Trussing. Cover the back

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with slices of streaky bacon, baste well with hot dripping, and roast from 50 to 60 minutes before a clear fire or in a moderately hot oven. Baste frequently, otherwise the flesh will be dry, and a few minutes before serving remove the bacon to allow the back of the rabbit to brown. Remove the skewers, serve on a hot dish with some of the sauce poured round, garnish with the bacon cut into dice, or have ready some crisply-fried small rolls of bacon, and send the remainder of the sauce to table in a sauce-boat.

Time. — From 50 to 60 minutes. Average Cost, 23. 6d. to 2s. 9d. I373--RABBIT, RICH STEW OF. (Fr.— Gibelotte de Lapin. ) Ingredients.— i rabbit, \ of a Ib. of streaky bacon, i pint of good stock, i glass of claret, 2 ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, 18 button onions, a bouquet-garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 2 cloves, 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper.

Method. — Divide the rabbit into small joints, cut the bacon into dice, and peel the onions. Heat the butter in a siewpan, fry the onions and bacon until brown, and remove to a pi. tie. Now put in the r and when it has acquired a little colour sprinkle in the flour, and conuntil both rabbit and flour are well browned. Replace the onions and bacon, add the hot stock, bouquet-garni, cloves, j corns, and salt to taste, cover closely, and stew gently for about i hour, or until the rabbit is tender. 15 minutes before serving add the claret, and when the sauce again reaches simmering point put in the previously washed and cut into small pieces, and let it cook for about i o minutes. Pile the rabbit in the centre of a hot dish, season the sauce to taste and strain it over, garnish the base with groups of bacon-dice and onions, and serve.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 1374- -RABBIT SOUFFLE. (Fr.— Souffle de Lapin.) Ingredients. — 6 ozs. of: pped ra 2 ozs. <>t Hour, 3 eggs, $ a pint of mi! pper, brown (see Sauces).

Method. Melt the batter, add the flour, stir in he milk, simmer gently lor m minutes, and put the sauce aside to cool. Pound the flesh of the rabbit until smooth, work in the yol1... add the white sauce. Pass the mixture '•. add the stittlv-\\hij>; s of eggs, and turn well biitten-d soulile-tin. Ste.un gently from 40 to 50 minutes brown sauce poured round.

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Time. — To steam, from 40 to 50 minutes. Average Cost, 2s. to 2S. 6d. Sufficient for i large souffle. Seasonable from September to March. 1375.— RABBIT WITH SPANISH ONIONS.

Ingredients. — i large rabbit, £ of a Ib. of ham or bacon, 4 or 5 Spanish onions, flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Wash the rabbit, cut it into pieces convenient for serving, cut the onions into thin slices, and the ham or bacon into dice. Line the bottom and sides of a fireproof earthenware stew-jar or casserole with slices of onion, put in a single layer of rabbit, add a few pieces of ham, sprinkle well with flour, salt and pepper, and cover with slices of onion. Now put in the remainder of the rabbit, with the bacon, flour, and seasoning as before, cover the surface completely with slices of onion, and add 2 tablespoonfuls of cold water. Put on the lid, which must fit closely, place the stew-jar in a moderate oven, or on a cool part of the stove, and cook very slowly from 2 to 2^ hours. At the end of that time it will be found that the onions have yielded an abundance of gravy. If a homely dish is desired, serve the contents of the stew-jar in their simple form, or transfer the pieces of rabbit to a stewpan, strain over them the gravy, rub the onions through a fine hair sieve, add these to the contents of the stewpan, and when thoroughly hot, serve. Time. — From 2 to 2.\ hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient 1376.— RABBIT STEWED IN MILK. (Fr— Lapin au lait.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, i small onion very finely-chopped, a small blade of mace, i pint of milk (about), salt and pepper, i teaspoonful of cornflour.

Method. — Wash the rabbit, cut it into neat joints, and soak and blanch the head and neck in strong salted water. Pack the pieces closely in a baking-dish or pie-dish, sprinkle over them the onion, season well with salt and pepper, and add the mace. Nearly fill the dish with milk, cover with an inverted dish or piedish, and cook in a moderate oven from i£ to i£ hours. About 10 minutes before serving mix the cornflour smoothly with a little cold milk, boil up, and add it to the contents of the piedish and allow to cook for another 10 minutes. When ready, arrange the rabbit neatly on a hot dish, strain the sauce over, then serve.

Time. — From i£ to i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. to is. 8d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March. 1377.— RABBIT, BROWN STEW OF. (Fr.— Ragout de Lapin.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, i pint of stock, 2 ozs. of butter, £ of an oz. of

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TINNED MEAT.

Jtfe i. Spiced Beef. 2. Corned Beef. 3. Preserved Ham.

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flour, 2 cloves, i blade of mace, i bay-leaf, salt and pepper, small rolls of crisply-fried bacon.

Method. — Cut up the rabbit, fry it in hot butter, removing the pieces as soon as they are lightly browned. Fry the onions and flour until well browned, add the stock, herbs and seasoning, stir until boiling, then replace the rabbit, cover, and simmer gently for about i hour. Arrange the rabbit neatly on a hot dish, strain over the sauce, and garnish with the bacon.

Time. — From ij to 2 hours. Average Cost, is. pd. to 23. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March. 1378.— RABBIT, WHITE STEW OF. (Fr.— Lapin en Blanquette.) Ingredients. — i young rabbit, $ of a pint of white stock, $ of a pint of milk, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, i onion sliced, i or 2 strips of celery shredded, i blade of mace, 8 white peppercorns, salt and pepper. For the garni tblespoonfuls each of finely-shredded carrot, onion ami turnip.

Method.- -Wash and joint the rabbit, place it in a stewpan with the stock and milk, and bring to the boil. Add the onion, previously blanched, celery, mace, peppercorns and a little salt, and simmer gently until the rabbit is tender. Knead the flour and butter to:. and ad«! -mall pieces, when the rabbit is three-qu cooked. Serve with the sauce strained over, garnished with the vegetables, previously cooked separa:

Time. — From i£ to ij hours. Average Cost, 2s. to 2s. 6d. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March. 1379.— RABBIT, RAGOUT OF. (Fr. Ragout de Lapin.) Ingredients. — i rabbit, 4 ozs. of streaky bacon, 2 ozs. of butt< ozs. of flour, i onion cut into dice, i carrot cut into dice, $ a small turnip cut into dice, 6 peppercorns, salt and pepper, i pint of boiling stock or wat Method. — Wash and dry the rabbit thoroughly, and cut the bacon into i inch squares. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the rabbit until the entire surface is nicely browned, then remove and k hot. Fry the onion slightly, put in the flour, stir and cook slo\\lv until well-browned, and add the stock or water. Boil gently for 10 minutes, add salt to taste, put in the carrot and the turnip, and the bacon and peppercorns. Replace the rabbit in the st« v cover closely, and cook very gently for about 2 hours, or until the rabbit r. Serve on a hot dish, with the sauce strained over,

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and garnished with the dice of turnip and carrot, which should be previously boiled separately.

Time. — About 2\ hours. Average Coti, is. 8d. to 2s. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. Seasonable from September to March. 1380.— RABBIT, TURBAN OF.

Ingredients. — 2 rabbits, larding bacon, i oz. of butter, \ an oz. of flour, i egg, \ a gill of stock or water, pepper and salt, glaze, brown sauce (see Sauces, No. 233.)Method. — Separate the fleshfrom the bones (see Rabbit Cutlets, No. 1360, and Rabbit, Fillets Of, No. 1361), divide the back into pieces of even size, and lard them neatly. Melt the butter, stir in the flour, add tho stock, cook until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan, then put it aside to cool. Chop the remainder of the flesh finely, or pass it 2 or 3 times through a mincing machine, and afterwards pound it until smooth. Work in the panada, add the egg and seasoning to taste, and when well mixed pass through a fine wire sieve. Press the mixture lightly into a well-buttered border or turban mould,and steam until firm. Meanwhile, the fillets should have been braised and glazed according to directions given in Rabbits, Fillets Of. Now arrange them neatly within the shape, pour the sauce round, and serve. Time. — To cook the fillets, about i hour. To steam the turban, about 35 minutes. Average Cost, 33. to 35. 6d. Sufficient for 5 or 6

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TINNED AND PRESERVED FOODS.

CHAPTER XXVII.

General Remarks on the various Foods, Instructions for opening tins and serving, etc.

The Nutritive Value of Tinned Meat is less than that of fresh meat, and it is somewhat insipid owing to the loss of the osmasomc, which gives to meat its agreeable flavour. In consequence of this, and because when it is overcooked the fibres become tough, a comparatively small proportion may be digested and assimilated, and so it is less s. than an equal amount of fresh meat. Tinned goods of nearly every description are more or less cooked, the time v. from five minutes to an hour. Tinned food is a valuable substitute for salt meat on board ship and elsewhere, and is esp< useful to persons removed from the general sources of supply. Tins containing meat are placed in a vessel and surrou by a strong solution of common salt, which is heated to a temperature of 230° to 260° F. The top of each tin is securely soldered, and provided with a small hole through which the air and some of the steam escapes. As soon as the air is exhausted the aperture is immediately closed with a drop of solder, thus hermetically s i. and preserving all the essential elements of the meat. If any air remains, fermentation may ensue: a bulging tin indicates this condition. In all tinned foods there is a danger that small lumps of solder, used in sealing the tin. may fall inside, and be accidentally swallowed with the meat. In turning out a tin they should be looK in the sediment at the bottom and removed. The danger is freqt; obviated by the manufacturer leaving a small projection of tin underneath the hole to catch the solder.

Tinned Goods to be Stored in a Cool Place. — They can then be turned out easily and sliced mor; ger end of the tin should be cut away, and a small hole made in the opposite end to adnr which, by its pressure, enables the meat to slip out easily. Great care is needed in opening tinn< and poultry.

To Re-heat Tinned Meat, etc. — The tin containing r:ic or jxmltry should be immersed in lx ilinij water until its conten: then oj>whole, but better cut tip and cooked gently in a good sauce,

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which should be highly seasoned and flavoured to counteract the insipidity which very often characterizes tinned foods. Birds, intended to be served cold should be taken out of the tin very carefully, well-dried and glazed. Breasts and wings of tinned birds are, as a rule, quite tender, but the legs are usually hard and tough, and should be converted into rissoles or croquettes and disposed of with as little delay as possible. Tinned foods of this description soon become unfit for use.

Tinned Fish. — Salmon, lobster, oysters, prawns, sardines, anchovies, herrings and red mullet are the chief varieties of tinned fish. A good brand of the two first-named, if well drained, may be used as a substitute for fresh fish in many fish entrees and salads, thus materially reducing their cost. Tinned oysters should not be served " au naturel," but they answer very well for soup, sauce and forcemeat. A good brand of prawns may be used for a curry.

Tinned and Bottled Soups. — Among the best may be mentioned: gravy, mock turtle, oxtail, tomato, turtle and other thick soups; the thin soups are less satisfactory. In an emergency tinned soups are invaluable, as they only require warming and a little additional flavouring and seasoning. Generally they may be diluted by rinsing out the tin or bottle with a small quantity of hot water. Tinned or Bottled Vegetables are used extensively, and form an excellent substitute for fresh vegetables. To obtain satisfactory results, the method of warming should be adapted to the vegetable. A tin containing asparagus should be immersed in boiling water for about ten minutes and afterwards carefully opened, and its contents allowed to slide gently on to a drainer or a slice of toast. Peas, flageolets, lima beans and haricots verts should be well rinsed and afterwards immersed in cold water for a short time, well drained, and cooked for a few minutes in boiling water. Salt to taste should be added; a little fresh mint and a good pinch of sugar will greatly improve the flavour of peas. A little butter and a good seasoning of salt and pepper should be added to spinach, while tomatoes should be well drained, heated and seasoned to taste. Vegetables are also preserved in bottles.

Tinned and Bottled Fruits of all kinds should be emptied into a glass or porcelain dish several hours before being served, and, when possible, chilled in a refrigerator. Unsweetened bottled fruit will be found an excellent substitute for fresh fruit. Other Methods of Preserving Meat. — There are, of course, other means of preserving meat than by tinning it. Much of the fresh meat is spoken of as " frozen " meat, and it is actually frozen as hard as a board directly it is killed, and in that state carried to the coast and put on board ships fitted with refrigerating chambers, where the air is maintained at a temperature just below freezing point, experience having shown that meat is better preserved by this

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TINNED AND PRESERVED FOODS 781 method than if kept below 32° F. On its arrival in England it is transferred to similar store-houses on land. So long as the heat does not rise above a certain point it is preserved, but, like the fish taken from the slab of ice used by the fishmongers, it very soon goes bad at the ordinary temperature. This method of preserving meat is merely a larger application of the common practice of storing meat in an ice-chamber or refrigerator. Neither meat nor any other food can putrefy without some air, some moisture, and a certain degree of heat. From the tins all the air is excluded, and so whatever the temperature of the tin, after once it is sealed the meat remains sweet. It maybe carried to the tropics, or stand in the hottest cupboard in the house, with the same satisfactory result. A few years ago some bodies of the extinct mammoth were found in Siberia buried in the ice, but although they had lain there for so long a period, they were as well preserved as if the animals had only died the day before. Dried Meat. — Both animal and vegetable food is also preserved \>y drying. Fish is constantly smoked and dried, and thus prepared, forms a large part of the food of our town poor. Beef and other meat is cut in slices, and dried in the sun and wind in countries where the heat of the sun is more powerful than in our own land. Pemmican is dried meat reduced to powder and mixed \sith fat, but even that is now much less used than formerly; and in general it may be said that drying as a means of preserving meat has been superseded by more modern and improved methods.

Salt Meat. -Salt and saltpetre are the antiseptics most commonly used in the preservation of food, and their use for this purpose dates from long ago. Centuries back, even in the more favoured districts of the south of England, there was no food to keep the cattle all the winter, for the grass was scanty, and turnips were then unknown. In the autumn everyone killed the cattle and salted the meat down for home consumption through the coming months. Fresh meat, winter and summer alike, was a luxury which no one could have, and no one expected.

1 1 is not to be regretted if salt meat is driven away from our markets by fresh, for salt draws the juice out of the meat with all its soluble constituents, and at the same time hardens the fibre of the meat itself, and so makes it less digestible. The brine in which several pieces of meat have been pickled will almost set into a jelly, so much of the valuable juices has it extracted from the meat, and all thes of course, wasted. It is said that a third of the meat, or even a greater proportion, is lost by salting. The salt can be drawn out of the meat by soaking it in water, but nothing can restore to it what it has lost. Every one knows that salted food cannot be used for any length of time without injury to the health. Its smallest drawback is — and Miallcst is con —that it naturally encourages thirst, and it is allowed that all animals thrive better on moist foods than on

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dry foods and water. The worst is that salted meat has lost those saline constituents that are not readily supplied except in fresh fruits and vegetables, precisely those foods that are rarest wherever salt meat is most likely to be used, in large towns, cold countries, during the winter season, or at sea. Sailors at sea get rations of lime-juice when their supply of vegetables brought from shore comes to an end, not to counteract the effects of the salt, as some suppose, but to furnish in another form what the brine has taken away. In Norway, salt food and scurvy are alike common. Smoked Meat. — Smoking meat and fish greatly increases its power of keeping. Creosote is an excellent antiseptic, and is sold to paint over meat as a substitute for the lengthy and troublesome process of smoking. Borax is also used as a preservative.

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RECIPES FOR TINNED AND PRESERVED FOODS CHAPTER XXVIII Soup, fish, meat, poultry, and sweets.

1381.— BROWN SOUP FROM TINNED MUTTON.

Ingredients. — 2 Ibs. of tinned mutton, 2 quarts of boiling water, i medium onion sliced, i small carrot sliced, £ a small turnip sliced, a bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, salt and pepper.

Method. — Turn the meat out of the tin into i quart of boiling water, let it remain until quite cold, and remove the fat. Empty the contents of the basin into a stewpan, add another quart of boiling water, boil up, and put in the vegetables, herbs, add a little salt and pepper. Cook gently lor i hour, and pass the whole through a fine wire sieve. Heat the butter, add the flour, cook gently and stir occasionally until a good brown colour is obtained, then replace the puree and liquor. Boil up, season to taste, and serve. Beef essence, sherry, ketchup and many other things may be added to enrich the soup and improve its flavour.

Time. — 2 hours after the fat has been removed. Average Cost, is. 6d. 1382.— MOCK TURTLE SOUP.

Ingredients. — £ a tin of calf's head, 2 ozs. of ham, cut into dice, i medium-sized onion sliced, i small carrot sliced, i or 2 strips of celery, a bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay leaf), i£ ozs. of butter, i£ ozs. of flour, sherry, lemon- juice, forcemeat balls (see Forcemeats), salt and pepper, 5 pints of boiling stock or water. Method. — Melt the butter in a large stewpan, fry the ham and \ bles until lightly browned, and sprinkle in the flour. Let the ingredi-

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ents cook slowly until well browned, and meanwhile drain the calf's head, add the liquor to the stock or water, and cut the meat into neat pieces. Pour the boiling stock or water over the browned vegetables, boil up, skim well, and, when the vegetables are tender, pass the whole through a fine sieve or tammy. Replace in the stewpan, bring to the boil, season, add sherry and lemon-juice to taste, put in the prepared meat and forcemeat balls, and serve when thoroughly hot. Time. — From i£ to 2 hours. Average Cost, 2s. 6d., exclusive of the sherry. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons.

1383.— OX-TAIL SOUP. (See Mock Turtle Soup. No.

1382.) Omit the forcemeat balls and lemon- juice, and substitute a tin of ox-tail for the £ tin of calf's head.

1384.— WHITE SOUP FROM TINNED RABBIT.

Ingredients. — i tin of rabbit, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, 2 small onions sliced, i small carrot sliced, 2 or 3 slices of turnip, a bouquet garni (parsley, thyme, bay-leaf), 3 pints of hot water, i pint of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls of cream (this may be omitted), salt and pepper. Method. — Place the whole contents of the tin in a stewpan, add the water and, when boiling, put in the vegetables and herbs, with a little salt and pepper. Simmer gently for about i hour, then pass the rabbit and the liquor through a fine wire sieve, and return to the stewpan. Boil up, add the milk, the butter and flour, previously mixed smoothly together and divided into small pieces, with seasoning to taste. Make thoroughly hot, and stir in the cream just before serving. The soup may be garnished with shredded vegetables, macaroni, spagheti, etc.

Time. — About if- hours. Average Cost, is. 8d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 1385.— LOBSTER CURRY.

Ingredients. — i tin of lobster, £ a pint of curry sauce (see Sauces, No. -241).

Method. — Thoroughly drain the lobster, and divide it into rather small neat pieces. Make the sauce as directed, put in the prepared lobster, make thoroughly hot, and serve. Well boiled rice and sliced lemon should be served with this dish.

Time. — 10 minutes, after the sauce is made. Average Cost, is. 2d. 1386.— LOBSTER IN WHITE SAUCE.

Ingredients. — i tin of lobster, £ of a pint of white sauce (see Sauces, No. 221), puff paste trimmings, breadcrumbs, butter, salt and pepper,

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Method. — Thoroughly drain the lobster, and divide it into large flakes. Put a border of puff paste round a pie dish, and bake in a quick oven. Make the sauce as directed. Place the lobster in the pie-dish, sprinkling each layer liberally with pepper and very sparingly with cayenne, add the white sauce, and cover rather thickly with breadcrumbs. Season with salt and pepper, add a few small pieces of butter, and bake in a quick oven until the surface is browned. Time. — From 35 to 45 minutes. Average Cost, is. 2d., exclusive of the paste. Sufficient for 4 persons.

1387.— LOBSTER, POTTED.

Ingredients. — Tinned lobster, butter, anchovy sauce, cayenne. Method. — Drain and pound the lobster to a paste, adding sufficient butter and anchovy sauce to moisten it. Season highly with cayenne, if available, pass the mixture through a fine sieve, press it into small pots, and cover it with clarified butter.

Time. — About 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 3d. to is. 5d. when the whole tin is used. Sufficient for 3 or 4 pots. 1388.— PRAWNS, CURRIED.

Ingredients. — i tin of prawns, J- of a pint of curry sauce (see Sauces, No 241), well-boiled rice, lemon-juice. Method.— Make the sauce as directed (tinned curry sauce m substituted, or the prawns may be obtained ready curried), put in the prawns, make thoroughly hot, add lemon-juice to taste, and serve in a border of rice, or hand the rice separately. Time. — 10 minutes, after the sauce is made. Average Cost, is. 4d. 1389.— SALMON KEDGEREE.

Ingredients. — i tin of salmon (about £ a lb.), 4 ozs. of well-boiled rice, i oz. of butter, finely-chopped parsley, salt and pepper, grated nutmeg.

Method.— Divide the fish into rather large flakes. Heat the butter in a stcwpan, put in the rice, make it thoroughly hot, season to and add the fish. Stir very gently over the fire for 3 or 4 minuUs, and serve piled on a hot dish. One or two hard-boiled eggs coarsely chopped are sometimes added to the above ingredients. Time. — £ an hour. Average Cost, lod. to is. Sufficient for 4 or 5 1390.— SALMON SCALLOPED.

Ingredients.— i tin of salmon, breadcrumbs, white sauce (see Sauces, No. 221 ), butter, salt and pepper, grated cheese.

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Method. — Divide the salmon into rather large flakes. Butter as many scallop shells as are required rather thickly with butter, and sprinkle them lightly with breadcrumbs. Nearly fill them with salmon, add 1 or 2 tablespoonfuls of sauce, and cover the surface with breadcrumbs. Sprinkle lightly with cheese, season with salt and pepper, then add 2 or 3 small pieces of butter. Bake in a moderate oven until nicely browned, and serve.

Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d., when the whole tin is used. Allow i to each person.

1391.— SALMON, POTTED. (See Lobster Potted. No.

1387.) 1392.— SARDINE PASTIES.

Ingredients. — i tin of sardines, short crust or rough puff paste, or puff paste trimmings, i egg.

Method. — Skin the sardines, take away the backbone, and replace the two halves. Roll out the paste as thinly as possible, cut it into strips about 4 in. by 2 in., and in each strip enclose a sardine, leaving the ends open. Brush over with beaten egg, bake in a quick oven, and serve hot.

Time. — To bake the pasties, about 15 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 4d. per tin. Allow i to each person, when served as a savoury. I393-— SARDINES POTTED.

Ingredients. — Sardines, butter, cayenne.

Method. — From each sardine remove the skin and backbone. Pound to a paste, adding butter as required, and season highly with cayenne. Pass through a hair sieve, press into small pots, and cover with clarified Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, is. to is. 4d. per tin. Sufficient, i tin for 2 or 3 small pots.

Meat, Poultry, &c.

1394.— BEEF COLLOPS.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of Australian beef, 2 ozs. of butter or dripping, i onion, £ of a pint of stock, i lemon, i teaspoonful of mushroom ketchup, salt and pepper.

Method. — Mince the beef finely, put the butter or dripping into a stewpan. Add the onion (chopped finely) and fry till it is nicely browned. Add the juice of the lemon, the stock, ketchup and seasoning, simmer for 5 minutes, then add the meat, simmer for 5 minutes longer, and serve on a hot dish with a border of mashed potatoes or rice. Time. — 20 minutes. Average Cost, lod. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons.

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1395.— BEEF OR MUTTON CURRY.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of beef or mutton, i oz. of butter or dripping, I tablespoonful of flour, i tablespoonful of curry-powder, i onion sliced, 1 apple sliced (an equal amount of gooseberries or rhubarb may be substituted), £ of a pint of stock, i teaspoonful of lemon- juice, salt, 4 ozs. of cooked rice.

Method. — Cut the meat into small pieces and boil down any jelly or trimmings for gravy. Heat the butter or dripping in a stewpan, fry the onion until brown, put in the flour and curry-powder, stir and cook for 5 minutes, then add the apple and stock, and stir until the ingredients boil. Cover closely and simmer for about 30 minutes, then strain and return to the stewpan. Bring nearly to boiling point, add the lemon- juice, season to taste, and put in the meat. Draw the saucepan to the side of the stove, and let the meat remain in the hot sauce for about 20 minutes, but do not allow it to boil. Serve in a border of boiled rice.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, lod. Sufficient for 3 or 4 persons. 1396.— BEEF ROLL.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of tinned roast beef, coarsely chopped, $ a Ib. of cooked bacon, cut into small dice, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped y, £ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, salt and pepper. Method.— Mix the meat, bacon, parsley, herbs and a good seasoning of salt and pepper well together, and moisten gradually with beaten egg. Shape into a roll, brush over with egg, and bake gently for about i hour.

Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, is. 2d. to is. 4d. Sufficient 1397.— BEEF, BROILED, AND MUSHROOMS.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of tinned roast beef, 12 preserved mushrooms, i oz. of butter, i oz. of flour, J of a pint of stock or water, salt and pePI Method. — Slice the mushrooms, fry them lightly in hot butter, and sprinkle in the flour. Cook until nicely browned, add the stock or. season to taste, stir until boiling, and afterwards simmer gently for about £ an hour. Slice the meat, coat each slice lightly with oil or oiled butter, and broil over or in front of a clear fire. Serve with a little sauce and all the mushrooms round the dish, and put the nulerof the sauce in a sauce boat.

Time.— About i hour. Average Cost, is. to is. 3d. Sufficient for 4

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1398.— BEEF-TEA CUSTARD.

Ingredients. — Beef essence, i egg, £ of a pint of boiling water, salt and Method. — Make a stock of required strength with beef essence and water. Beat the egg well, then add the stock, and season to taste. Turn into a buttered cup, place in a saucepan, surround with boiling water, and cook very gently until the custard is set firmly. Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 4d. or 5d. Sufficient for i person.

1399.— CORNISH PASTIES.

Ingredients. — For the pastry: 8 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of fat, i teaspoonful of baking powder, i saltspoonful of salt. For the mixture: £ of alb. of beef, Jib. of potato (parboiled), \ a teaspoonful of onion (parboiled and finely chopped), 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy or water, mixed herbs, salt and pepper to taste.

Method. — Cut the meat and potatoes into dice, add the onion, herbs, salt, pepper and gravy, and mix well together. Mix the flour, baking powder and salt together, rub in the fat, lightly, add the water, being careful not to make the paste too moist. Divide the paste into 8 equal portions, and roll them out, keeping the portions as round as possible. Pile the mixture in the centre of each piece of pastry, wet the edges and join them together on the top to form an upstanding frill, prick them 2 or 3 times with a fork, and bake in a moderate oven for about \ an hour.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d.

1400.— CROUTES OF MEAT.

Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of beef coarsely-chopped, 4 squares of stale bread, i oz. of butter, i teaspoonful of flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of gravy or water, i teaspoonful of Worcester or other sauce; salt and Method. — Remove the crust and tiim the bread into shape. Melt the butter in a frying-pan, fry the bread until brown, then remove and keep hot. Brown the flour in the butter, add the gravy or water, salt, pepper, Worcester sauce, and when boiling draw aside. When the sauce has cooled slightly, stir in the meat, let it become thoroughly hot, then pile on the croutes of bread, and serve at once. 1401.— CALF'S HEAD.

Ingredients. — i tin of calf's head, frying-batter, tomato, piquant or other suitable sauce (see Sauces, Nos. 265, 282), frying-fat.

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Method. — Slice the head neatly, dip each slice into the prepared batter, and fry in hot fat until crisp and nicely browned. Serve the sauce separately.

Time. — About £ an hour, after the batter is made. Average Cost, is. 4d., exclusive of the sauce. Sufficient for 5 or 6 persons. 1402.— FOWL ROASTED.

Ingredients. — i tin of roast fowl, 2 or 3 rashers of bacon, gravy, bread sauce (see Sauces), drip]; Method. — Immerse the tin containing the fowl in boiling water, let it become thoroughly hot, then open the tin and remove the bird carefully. Cover the breast with rashers of bacon, baste well with hot dripping, and cook in a brisk oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Serve the bread sauce and gravy separately.

Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 39, 64. Sufficient for 4 or 1403.— GAME, SALMI OF.

Ingredients. — i tin of partridge or pheasant, $ of a pint of brown sauce (see Sauce;), i glass of port, salt and pepp onions. Method. ---Divide the j^ame into pieces convenient for serving (the trimmings and jelly will provide the stock for the brown sauce). Make the sauce as direct eil. add to it the game, wine and seasoning to and, when thoroughly hot, serve garnished with croutons of fried Time. — About | an hour, aftei the sauce is made. Average Cost, 2S. 6d. Sufficient for 4 persons, 1404.— GROUSE, ROAST.

Ingredients. — i tin of roast grouse, fried potatoes, good gravy, butter or dripping.

Method. — Let the tin stand in hot water until the bird is thoroughly heated, then take it cm! n and transfer it to a baking tin containing some hot butter or dripping. Baste it wrll. cook in a brisk oven for 15 or 20 minutes, and serve with potato straws or chips and good gra Time. — About 40 minutes. Average Cost, 35. od. Sufficient for 2 1405.— HARE, JUGGED.

Ingredients. — i tin of jugged hare, i glass of port wine, red currant jolly, salt and pepper.

Method. — Let the tin remain im mcrsed in hot water until its con-

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7QO HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT tents are thoroughly heated, then turn out into a stew-pan, add the wine, and seasoning if necessary, heat up again and dish up neatly, and serve. The red currant jelly may be served separately. Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, 2s. Sufficient for 4 persons. 1406.— HARICOT OF BEEF.

Ingredients. — i pint of haricot beans, i Ib. tin of beef, i£ ozs. of butter, 2 onions, \ a pint of stock, i carrot, i turnip, i tablespoonful of Harvey's sauce, pepper and salt, flour, ground rice. Method. — Soak the beans overnight, drain them and put them in a saucepan with 2 quarts of water and boil for 2 hours, or until they are thoroughly tender, drain and put them to dry beside the fire with the saucepan lid slightly raised, then put in \ an oz. of butter, pepper and salt. In another saucepan prepare a sauce as follows: put i oz. of butter in the pan and fry the sliced onions to a nice brown, cut up the turnip and carrot, add them, and mix the stock smoothly with i tablespoonful of ground rice and flour, place the stock in the saucepan, add the Harvey's sauce and simmer for £ an hour. Empty the tin of beef, cut the meat into neat squares, roll these in flour and put them into the sauce to simmer for 5 minutes. Dish with the meat and gravy in the centre and the beans in a border round. Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 4 persons. 1407.— HARICOT MUTTON.

Ingredients. — i tin of boiled mutton, 2 ozs. of butter, \\ ozs. of flour, 2 or 3 small onions sliced, i small carrot sliced, 2 or 3 slices of turnip cut into strips, 2 or 3 tablespoonfuls of mushroom ketchup, or seme sharp sauce, salt and pepper, £ of a pint of boiling stock or water. Method. — Slice the meat ralher thinly, putting all the jelly into the stock or water, and rejecting the fat. Heat the butter in a stewpan, fry the vegetables slightly, sprinkle in the flour, and cook gently. When well browned put in the stock or water, stir until boiling, simmer gently until the vegetables are tender, and add the meat. Season to taste, add ketchup or other sauce, make thoroughly hot, and serve. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to 2s. Sufficient for 5 1408.— IRISH STEW.

Ingredients. — 2 Ibs. of Australian mutton, 2 large onions, 2 Ibs. of potatoes, | of a pint of stock or water, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into pieces convenient for serving; cut the potatoes into thick slices, and the onions into very thin slices. Take a saucepan with a close-fitting lid, and in it place the potato and onion in alternate layers; sprinkle each layer with salt and pepper, pour in the stock, and cook the ingredients very gently for about i£ hours.

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By this time the potato and onion should be cooked, and as the meat requires no further cooking, but simply heating, it should be put into the saucepan and well mixed with the onion and potato, and served as soon as it has become thoroughly hot.

Time. — About ij hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5 1409.— IRISH STEW. (Another Method.) Ingredients. — i tin of boiled mutton sliced, 2 Ibs. of potatoes sliced, 4 large onions thinly sliced, salt and pepper, stock or water. Method. — Place the sliced potato and onion in alternate layers in a stewpan, stewjar, or pie-dish, seasoning each layer liberally with salt and pc-ppcr, add a little stock or water, cover closely, cook gently until nearly done, then stir in the slices of meat. When thoroughly hot, Time. — About 2 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient 1410.— KEBOBS.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of tinned meat, I medium- sized onion finely chopped, i dessertspoonful of curry powder, i egg, salt and pepper, flour, dripping.

Method. — Mince the meat finely, stir in the onion, curry powder, pepper and salt to taste, and the ci»g. Form into small balls or flat cakes, roll lightly in flour, and fry in hot dripping until nicely browned. Plainly boiled rice and chutney usually accompany this Time. — About 35 minutes. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. 8d. Sufficient 1411.— KIDNEYS, CURRIED.

Ingredients. — i tin of stewed kidneys, i tin of devilled ham, $ of a pint of curry sauce (see S >o. 241), or use a small tin of curry sauce, croutcs of toasted bread.

Method. — Heat the kidneys in the curry sauce, and meanwhile prrcroutesof toasted bread, and spread them thickly with devilled ham (a rasher of bacon or potted ham may be substituted). Serve th«- kidneys on the toast, and, if liked, the dish may be accompanied by chutney.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, about 2s. 6d. Sufficient 1412.— LAMB'S SWEETBREADS.

Ingredients.— i tin of lamb's s\\ •!:?, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying-fat, brown sauce (sec Sau« ^3).

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Method. — Drain and dry the sweetbreads, and divide them into neat pieces. Coat them carefully with egg and breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until crisp and brown, and serve piled on a hot dish. Send the sauce to table in a sauce boat.

Time. — About 20 minutes. Average Cost, 23. Sufficient for 4 or 5 1413.— MEAT CAKES.

Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of beef, £ a Ib. of mashed potato, 2 tablespoonfuls of either gravy or milk, \ a teaspoonful of mixed herbs, salt and pepper, browned breadcrumbs, i egg.

Method. — Remove all the fat and chop the meat finely. Heat the milk or gravy in a saucepan, put in the meat, potato, herbs, salt and pepper, and stir briskly over the fire for about 10 minutes; if the mixture is too stiff to hold together a little more gravy or milk must be added. Spread the mixture on a plate; when cold, divide it into 6 or 8 portions, form these into round cakes, brush them over with egg (a little milk may be used instead), and sprinkle with browned breadcrumbs. Place the cakes in a greased baking-tin, put small pieces of fat on the top of each cake and bake them in a moderate oven for 15 minutes. The cakes may also be brushed over with egg, covered with white breadcrumbs, and fried in hot fat.

Time. — 2 hours. Average Cost, 8d. Sufficient for 3 persons. 1414.— MEAT AND EGG TOAST.

Ingredients. — Slices of bread, remains of cold meat, 2 eggs, 2 tablespoonfuls of milk, i oz. of butter, i tablespoonful of tomato sauce, Method. — Cut some rounds of bread and fry them, or toast and butter them. Mince finely any small pieces of tongue, or corned or fresh beef. Put in a saucepan 2 eggs, i oz. of butter, salt and pepper, and 2 tablespoonf uls of milk. When the eggs begin to thicken add the meat, and, if possible, a tablespoonful of tomato sauce. Stir the mixture over the fire until it is as thick as cream, pour it over the toast, and serve at once.

Time. — 10 to 15 minutes. Average Cost, 6d., exclusive of the meat. 1415.— MEAT AND MACARONI.

Ingredients. — \ of a Ib. of macaroni, 2 Ibs. of tinned meat, i oz. of butter or dripping, i small onion, i teaspoonful of flour, i teaspoonful of ketchup or other sauce, \ a pint of stock or gravy. Method. — Put the macaroni into sufficient boiling water to cover it and cook till tender, then cut into short lengths and keep hot. Re-

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Onions, Shallots, Spanish Onions, Turnips, Cauliflower, Colletts, Marrow, Savoy, Asparagus, Haricot Beans.

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move any jelly.or gristle from the meat, and put it, together with any bones, trimmings of meat, ham, or bacon into a saucepan with rather more than £a pint of cold water, and simmer at least i hour. Cut the meat into small slices, and the onions into dice. Melt the butter or fat in a stewpan or frying-pan, fry the onion until brown, sprinkle in the flour, cook for about 10 minutes, add the gravy and sauce and stir until boiling. Put in the meat, baste it well with the gravy, and when quite hot, serve on a dish with the macaroni arranged as a border.

Time. — About i| hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 4 or 1416.— MEAT PATTIES.

Ingredients. — For the pastry: 8 ozs. of flour, 3 ozs. of fat, i teaspoonful of baking powder, i saltspoonful of salt. 1::iixture: | of a Ib. of beef, $ a saltspoonful of pepper, ± a saltspoonful of m; herbs, i tablespoonful of gravy or water.

Method. — Cut the meat into small dice, add to it the other ingred i and mix them well together. The first 8 rounds cut from the pastry should be put aside for the lids, for the cuttings, when re-roll be less light and flaky. When shallow patty-pans are used, the; ild be a little larger than the linings of the patty-pans, so as to ly cover the mixture, which should be piled up fairly high. Make a small hole in the top of each patty, brush over with egg or milk, and hake in a hot oven for about 20 minutes.

Time. — About i hour. Average Cost.

1417.— MEAT POTTED.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of Australian meat, J of a Ib. of butter, pepper and salt, pounded allspice.

Method. — lake i Ib. of lean meat, removing all gristle, skin, etc., and flavour it highly with salt, pepper and spice. Put it in a men and pound it well, adding butter at intervals until a smooth paste is obtained. Place the meat into small pots, pressing it down tightly, and pour clarified butter over the top.

Average Cost. — is.

1418.— MEAT AND POTATO PIE.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of mutton, i Ib. of potatoes, 2 onions, J a pint of Method. — Cut the meat into small thin slices, parboil and slice the potatoes and onions. Line the bottom of a pic-dish or earthcmv t o, cover with a layer of meat and a few slices of onion, and season liberally with salt and pepper. Repeat until the

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materials are used, the top layer being formed of potato. Pour in the gravy, cover with a greased paper, and bake for about i|- hours in a moderate oven; \ an hour before serving, remove the paper in order that the surface may brown.

Time. — About i£ hours. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 5 or 6 1419.— MEAT SANDERS.

Ingredients. — Cold boiled potatoes, 2 ozs. of butter, salt, flour, tinned meat, white of egg.

Method. — Rub some boiled potatoes through a sieve, or mash them well in a basin. Add i or 2 ozs. of butter or dripping, salt, and sufficient flour to make a paste firm enough to roll out. Cut this paste into squares of 4 or 5 inches, put some chopped and seasoned meat in the middle, and fold it over the same as for sausage rolls. Glaze them with egg, and bake them in a good oven until they are brown. Time. — \ of an hour.

1420.— MEAT SHAPE.

Ingredients. — \ a Ib. of beef, J of a Ib. of mashed potato, i slice of stale bread (\ an inch thick), i teaspoonful of onion (parboiled and finely-chopped ), \ of a pint of gravy or milk, browned breadcrumbs, Method. — Break the bread into small pieces, soak them in the gravy or milk, beat out all the lumps with a fork, and add the meat (chopped finely). Add also the potato, onion, pepper, and a little salt if necessary. Mix all well together; grease a basin or mould, coat it thickly with browned breadcrumbs, put in the mixture and press it down firmly. Cover with a greased paper, and either steam or bake gently for i hour. Serve with rich gravy. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2 or 3 persons. 1421.— MUTTON WITH CAPER SAUCE.

Ingredients. — i \ Ibs. of tinned mutton, f of a pint of caper sauce (see Sauces, No. 182).

Method. — Turn the meat out of the tin, and remove all jelly and gravy (to be afterwards converted into caper sauce). Replace the meat in the tin, put it in a stewpan and surround it with boiling water until thoroughly heated. Meanwhile make the sauce as directed, using the jelly and gravy with stock or water to make up the amount required. Serve the mutton on a hot dish with the sauce poured over. Time. — About i hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 4 or 5

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1422.— MUTTON CUTLETS.

Ingredients. — i tin of roast mutton, i egg, breadcrumbs, butter or frying-fat, $ of a pint of tomato sauce (see Sauces, No. 282). Method. — Carefully remove the meat from the tin, slice it i thickly, and trim it to a cutlet shape, putting all jelly and trimmings aside to be afterwards converted into croquettes, rissoles or mine-. Coat the cutlets with egg and breadcrumbs, which should be highly seasoned to counteract the lack of flavour in the meat, fry in hot butter until nicely browned, and serve with the sauce poured round. The dish may be varied by serving tinned peas with it, haricots flageolets, turnips and carrots, spinach or asparagus. Time. — About \ an hour. Average Cost, is. 6d. to is. oxi Su me lent 1423.— MEAT CROQUETTES.

Ingredient;. — } a Ib. of beef or mutton, \ an oz. of butter, £ an oz. of flour, iblcspoonfuls of breadcrumbs, 2 or 3 tablespoon!. i tablespoonful of Worcester sauce, J a tcaspoonful of fmelychoppcd parsley, J a tcaspoonful of mixed herbs, salt and y egg, breadcrumbs.

Method. — Chop the meat finely. Heat the butter in a stewpan, • • onion until lightly browned, add the flour and stock, and boil for i or 2 min»t«-N. Now put in the meat, breadcrumbs,. parsley, herbs, salt and pepper, and mix well over the fire, adding more stock or water if the ion appears at all dry. Turn on to a plate, and when cold divide into equal portions, form in'o co.it with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry until nicely browned in hot fat. If preferred, the mixture may be shaped into round « coated with flour and fried in a little hot fat in a frying-pan. Average Cost, 9d. Sufficient for 10 or 12 croquettes. 1424.— RUMP STEAK PUDDING.

Ingredients. — i tin of rumpsteak, i small tin of mushrooms, I tin of: s beef extract, salt and pepper, boiling suet paste (see Method. — Drain the mushrooms and oysters, and divide the meat into n< basin with paste, fill it with meat, oysters and mushrooms, in alternate layers, seasoning each 1 h salt and pepper. Make a strong gravy of meat extract and boiling i to taste with salt and pepper, and pour it over * • 1 of paste, cover with greased paper or a pudding cloth, and cither •n or boil for about 2\ hours. Add more gravy b< ing. Time. — To cook t: ng, about 2j hours. Average Cost, 33. 6d.

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1425.— SAVOURY BATTER.

Ingredients. — 4 tablespoonfuls of finely-chopped beef or mutton, i teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley, \ a teaspoonful of powdered mixed herbs, i saltspoonful of salt, £ a saltspoonful of pepper, 4 ozs. of flour, i egg, £ a pint of milk.

Method. — Mix the flour, egg, milk and salt into a smooth batter, let it stand for £ an hour, then add to it the meat, parsley and herbs. Melt a little dripping in a Yorkshire pudding-tin, pour in the batter, and bake until set in a moderately hot oven.

Time. — To bake, from 20 to 30 minutes. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient 1426.— SHEEP'S TONGUES.

Ingredients. — i tin of sheep's tongues, i egg, breadcrumbs, frying fat, salt and pepper, tomato, piquant or brown sauce (see Sauces). Method. — Turn the tongues carefully out of the tin, remove the j elly, split each tongue in half lengthwise, and take off the skin. Coat with egg and well seasoned breadcrumbs, fry in hot fat until well browned, and serve with a little of the sauce poured round, and the remainder in a sauce boat.

Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, is. 4d. Sufficient for 5 or 1427.— SHEPHERD'S PIE.

Ingredients. — £ a Ib. of beef or mutton, i Ib. of mashed potato, i oz. of butter or dripping, £ a pint of gravy or stock, i teaspoonful of parboiled and finely-chopped onion, salt and pepper. Method. — Cut the meat into small thin slices. Melt half the butter or fat in a stewpan, add to it the potato, salt and pepper, and stir over the fire until thoroughly mixed. Place on the bottom of a greased pie-dish a thin layer of potato, put in the meat, sprinkle each layer with onion, salt and pepper, pour in the gravy, and cover with potato. The potato covering may be roughed with a fork or smoothed over with a knife: the latter method produces an appearance similar to that of ordinary crust. Before baking, the remainder of the fat or butter should be put on the top of the pie in small pieces, or when economy is not an object, the appearance of the pie may be improved by brushing it over with yolk of egg. Bake until the crust is well browned. Time. — About £ an hour. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for 2 persons. 1428.— TOAD-IN-THE-HOLE.

Ingredients. — i Ib. of beef or mutton, 4 ozs. of flour, i egg, £ a pint of milk, J a teaspoonful of salt, dripping.

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Method. — Cut the meat into 6 or 8 slices. Make a smooth batter of the flour, egg, salt and milk, and let it stand for half an hour. In a Yorkshire pudding tin melt sufficient dripping to form a layer on the bottom, pour in about £ of the batter and bake until slightly set. Season the pieces of meat well with pepper, and also a li ttle salt if necessary, place them in the tin, pour in the remainder of the batter, and bake in a hot oven for 25 or 30 minutes, or until the batter is sufficiently browned.

Time. — 40 minutes. Average Cost, lod. Sufficient for 5 persons. 1429.— TONGUE, CURRIED.

Ingredients. — i tin of sheep's tongues, or the remains of an ox tongue, $ of a pint of curry sauce (see Sauces), well boiled rice, lemonMethod. — Remove the tongues carefully from the tin, strip off the skin, and slice rather thir.i:e the sauce as directed, put in the sliced tongue, and when thoroughly impregnated with the flavour of the sauce, serve either surrounded or accompanied by the rice. Time. — About J an hour. Average Cost, is. 3d. Sufficient for 4 1430.— APPLE WATER.

Ingredients. — 6 tinned apples, i oz. of castor sugar, i quart of boiling Method.— Place the apples in a jug, with a teacupful of the juice and the sugar, add the boiling water, and cover closely. Serve cold. Time.— i hour, if cooled on ice. Average Cost, 6d. Sufficient for i quart.

1431. APPLE COMPOTE.

Ingredients. — i ll>. uf Normandy pippins, i oz. of almonds, bla> and halved. S o/s. of castor sugar, i pint Q| Method. — Soak the apples for at least 12 hours in ti. then turn into a stcwpan, add the sugar, and simmer gently until U i Drain, replace the syrup in the stewpan, and boil rapidly until siderably red \rrange the apples in a glass dish, pour the symp over, garnish with the prepared almonds, and when cold, s« Time. — 3 or 4 hours. Average Cost, lod. to is. Sufficient for 6 or 7 1432. -DAMSON CHARLOTTE.

Ingredients. — i bottle of damsons, stale bread, J of a pint of 1

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custard, milk (Swiss condensed milk and water may be used ), sugar, butter, \ an oz. of Swinbourne's gelatine.

Method. — Coat a round cake tin with butter, line the side with strips of bread, previously soaked in sweetened milk, and shape a round to fit the bottom of the tin. Turn the damsons and their juice into a stewpan, simmer until soft, and remove the stones. Replace the fruit in the stewpan, sweeten to taste, add the gelatine, previously soaked in cold water, and stir until it is dissolved. Pour the preparation into the tin, cover with another round of soaked bread, and place the tin under pressure until cold. Serve with the custard poured over and round. The custard may be made of a packet of custard powder, 2 tablespoonfuls of Swiss condensed milk, and f- of a pint of water. Time. — Altogether, about 4 or 5 hours. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient I433-— RASPBERRY AND CURRANT PUDDING.

Ingredients. — i bottle of raspberries and currants, \ a pint of water, stale bread, sugar. For the custard: i packet of custard powder, 2 tablespoonfuls of condensed milk, i pint of water. Method. — Add \ a pint of water to the fruit and juice, cook gently for 20 minutes, sweeten to taste and strain off the juice. Select a piedish large enough to contain three-fourths of the materials, line the bottom with a rather thin slice (or slices) of bread, and add a layer of fruit, cover with bread, repeat until all the fruit is used, and add the syrup, a little at a time, to avoid floating the bread. On the following day make the custard, pour it into the pie-dish, and serve when quite cold.

Time. — i day. Average Cost, is. 6d. Sufficient for 6 or 7 persons. I434._STRAWBERRY MOULD.

Ingredients. — i packet of strawberry pudding powder, i pint of milk (or 2 tablespoonfuls of Swiss milk and i pint of water), \ an cz. of butter, sugar to taste.

Method. — Mix the powder smoothly with a little cold milk, boil the remainder of the milk, add the blended milk and powder, and stir until boiling. Add the butter, sweeten to taste, boil gently for about 5 minutes, then turn into a wetted mould, and put aside until cold. Time. — To make the mould, about 20 minutes. Average Cost, 6d.